Spring 2006 (Vol. 12)

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SPRING 2006

SPICES subtle, elusive, exotic ‌ celebrating passionate natural flavors

PLUS recipes

hundreds of restaurant reviews

area maps and much more

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Z’s steaks are selected from Prime mid-western aged beef, hand-cut to order and cooked the way you like it.

Z’s seafood is purchased directly from “day boat fisherman,” prepared simply and cooked to perfection. Don’t call prior to 4:00 p.m. about seafood specials for the evening… Chef is still at the airport… we just don’t know, yet!

Z’s oyster lovers can select from both East and West Coast oysters!

Lunch

Monday – Friday

11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Dinner

Monday – Thursday Friday – Saturday Sunday

5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

Louisville’s ★The ★ ★★&◆◆◆◆ Courier-Journal Restaurant

2005 America’s Top 10 Seafood Houses

Opened in October 2000, Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse is independently owned and operated.

101 Whittington Parkway Louisville, KY 40222 Telephone (502) 429-8000 Facsimile (502) 339-0335 www.zsoysterbar.com

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Choose Your Dealership As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.

You’re Riding On Our Reputation!

The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region.

As the #1 used car dealer, Sam Swope is also The Used Car Authority with over 1,000 vehicles to choose from for immediate delivery. A Sam Swope Premier Pre-owned vehicle offers a quality automobile, at the right price, backed by an exclusive package of owner benefits including a 7 day exchange policy, warranty coverage up to 60 days, and complimentary Emergency Roadside Rescue. You can buy with confidence from a Sam Swope dealership.

Quality automobiles. Competitive prices. Outstanding service. Once you see all that the Sam Swope Auto Group has to offer you will understand why‌

Swope Discount AutoCenter I I-64 & S. Hurstbourne Parkway I Louisville, KY 40299

502-499-5000 I www.SamSwope.com

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SPRING 2006 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS JOHN CASTRO DANIELLE M. DeMARE ANTHONY LAMAS CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR MARY W. JOHNSON ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE

Food & Dining Magazine 速 is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine速 and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine速 or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

__________________________

Annual subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine 速 P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

For advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER At 610 Magnolia, Chef Edward Lee offers Dungeness crab cakes with paddlefish roe in a blood orange gastrique. (see our feature story on page 18) Photo by Dan Dry 6

Spring 2006

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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SPRING 2006

FEATURES

38

THE SPICE OF LIFE Spice: Subtle, elusive and exotic, these simple seasonings have stimulated passions, created fortunes and changed history.

Here’s how to know, buy and use them.

WHAT AN ORIGINAL IDEA! How Louisville’s fiercely independent restaurant community learned to work together as “Louisville’s Originals,” with profiles of four of the city’s most “Original” restaurateurs.

18 38

COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS Here’s our quarterly report of changes in the local restaurant industry: Openings, closings, moves and more.

18

HUMOR HEY, CUPCAKE

14

Humor columnist Jay Forman doesn’t mind cake. But he has a problem when marketers start trying to pass it off as health food.

TRAVEL ROAD TRIP! Cleveland The Cuyahoga River is flammable no longer, but Ron Johnson reports that this regional city’s dining scene is catching fire.

LIQUIDS SPIRITS: Bourbon Bars Louisville is the epicenter of Bourbon Country, so it’s no surprise that our top local bars offer a world-class selection of Kentucky’s nectar.

HIP HOPS: Roll Out the Barrel From Eis Doppelbock to ales aged in Bourbon barrels, innovative micro-brewers are challenging tradition, with delicious results.

COFFEE ON THE ROCKS Want to cool down those lazy, hazy days of summer?

Try a tall cup of coffee … on ice.

CORK 101: Some Like it Hot Wine makes an iffy match with five-pepper fiery fare, but Robin Garr suggests a few possible combinations.

28

10

RECIPES RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Seviche’s Fluke Martini Chef Anthony Lamas demonstrates why seviche is not merely a great dish but the name of his restaurant.

TOP CHEF RECIPES: The Bold & the Beautiful

16 30 32 34 36 28 48

Our guest chefs from Sullivan University offer creative recipes that showcase the exotic and aromatic delights of a world of spices.

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE

48

A comprehensive list of 1,000 restaurants, over half with reviews.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

52 82

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006

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news and notes

comings

&goings

It has been a rough winter in the Louisville restaurant business, or so it would seem, with much nervous talk among restaurateurs about frighteningly high utility bills and a worrisome business slowdown attributed to consumers watching their wallets in a shaky economy with gasoline selling for upwards of $2.50 per gallon.

Our quarterly review of local restaurant openings, closings and other changes, however, paints a more complex and significantly more optimistic picture: Even in the face of a scary economy, a surprising wave of new-restaurant openings outnumbered the closings. The formal tally shows a total of 44 new places to dine in the metro, against a loss of 42. Moreover, the balance between comings and goings isn’t nearly as close as it appears: In an effort to keep our records as accurate as possible, we’ve caught up on quite a few departures of small, neighborhood eateries that had been gone for some time before we noticed.

PHOTO BY DAN DRY

OPENINGS Three exciting new spots were poised for opening at Food & Dining’s press time and rank high on our to-review list: Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse, in the Waterfront Plaza complex adjacent to Galt House East at 325 W. Main Street, will be Louisville’s first outpost of the eponymous Cincinnati restaurateur, whose properties in the Queen City and Northern Kentucky draw raves for their quality and classic steakhouse style.

The long-awaited Nios, a classy bistro and lounge run by Jun Eugenio, former partner in the old Jicama, which became Anthony Lamas’s Seviche after a corporate divorce, will feature contemporary small-plate dishes in the fine historic building at 917 Baxter Avenue that had previously housed Jupiter Grill, Bazo’s and @mosphere.

Another splendid old red-brick building, this one at 316 Ormsby Avenue in Old Louisville, will soon be the venue for Ameche, a tongue-in-cheek rendition of an old-fashioned Italian-American 10 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

family eatery, run by the winning team of Sharon and Scott Risinger, owners of Third Avenue Cafe and BBC on Fourth.

Two recent additions are small but intriguing ethnic restaurants: Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine replaces the defunct Edna’s as the city’s only commercial source of this Pacific islands cuisine; simple and affordable, you’ll find it at 2339 Frankfort Avenue, just two doors from El Mundo, where Sari Sari owner Pete Chamberlain used to work. Shiraz Mediterranean Grill, occupying one of the four small cottages at 2018 Brownsboro Road, offers very fine Iranian fare for a budget price.

The old Maier’s Tavern, 3921 Shelbyville Road in St. Matthews, has taken on a new look and personality with a substantial facelift.

Now called Brendan’s, it’s the latest in the group of Irish pubs owned by Tom O’Shea, along with O’Shea’s and Flannigan’s.

O’Shea has upgraded the bill of fare and added a thoughtfully chosen, affordable international wine list.

If Italian is your ethnic option, you’re going to be delighted

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with several more recent arrivals: SteveO’s Italian Kitchen, 4205 W. Highway 146 in Oldham County between Buckner and LaGrange, is earning praise for one of the region’s best pizzas, plus a fine range of other Italian fare. Stratto’s, opening soon in the lovely old house at 318 W. Lewis & Clark Parkway in Clarksville, will offer an all-Italy array of upscale Italian dishes; Alley Cats, on the city’s entertainment strip at 962 Baxter Avenue, vends fine pizzas well into the night; and out at Bob Valvano’s “Gotcha Bocce,” 1701 UPS Drive, Angelina’s Café offers yet another take on casual Italian food.

All-American dishes are the draw at the new Sluggers Deli, 320 Main Street, opposite Slugger Field, offering fine deli sandwiches made to order from Boar’s Head meats and cheeses; and Big Mama’s Soul Kitchen, satisfying the soul with homemade soul food at the gates to Shawnee Park, 4532 W. Broadway.

In the international arena, new Vietnamese-American owners have opened Coco’s Bakery in the storefront at 6915 Southside Drive that had housed Bakelicious; the concept is similar, featuring both Asian and French pastries and baked goods and hot lunches, including many flavors of boba tea (“bubble tea”), fruitflavored iced tea drinks with tiny tapioca pearls that come bubbling up through a fat straw as you drink.

Topping the list of current restaurants spawning additional properties we have the lovable Bourbon Bros. BBQ adding a branch at 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike in Jeffersonville; the venerable Bristol Bar & Grille adding another venue at 6051 Timber Ridge Drive in Prospect, making over the quarters once occupied by Max & Erma’s; and the even more venerable Cunningham’s opening Cunningham’s Creekside out in Harrods Creek at 6301 Upper River Road (former home of Bus Parson’s River Creek Inn, then briefly Pearly’s).

Other recent arrivals, listed alphabetically: Cancun Mexican Restaurant, 9904 Linn Station Road; Chicago Gyros, 2317 Brownsboro Road; Close-Knit Café, 311 Wallace Avenue; El Toro Restaurante Mexicano, 1810 S. Hurstbourne Parkway; Habaneros, 1415 Broadway, Clarksville; Jolly Rogers, 850 Main Street, Charlestown; La Monarca, 6501 Shepherdsville Road; My Place www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006

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Café, 100 E. Jefferson Street; Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza, 9010 Taylorsville Road; Old Louisville Coffee House, 1489 S. Fourth Street; P. Nuts Sports Bar & Grill, 1506 Lakeshore Court; Pig And A Peppermint, 9521 US Highway 42; Queue Café, 220 W. Main Street; Sister Bean’s, 4956 Manslick Road; Wings N Things, 2809 N. Hurstbourne Parkway, and Wings To Go, 4324 Charlestown Road, New Albany.

Other restaurants adding branches to growing chains and mini-chains include: Bean Street Café at three Hoosier locations, in the IUS Campus Library in New Albany, in the Floyd Memorial Hospital at 1850 State Street in New Albany, and at 101 Lafollette Station in Floyds Knobs; Ernesto’s, 4632A S.

winston’s

Sullivan University Campus 3101 Bardstown Road Louisville, KY 40205 Reservations are recommended

502-456-0980

12 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Hurstbourne Parkway; Fire Fresh BBQ, 211 S. Fifth Street; a trio of Honeybaked Café outlets at 4600 Shelbyville Road and 6423 Bardstown Road in Louisville and 757 Lewis & Clark Parkway in Clarksville; Ma Zarella’s, 2868 Charlestown Road in New Albany; Mexico Tipico, 12401 Shelbyville Road, and Puerto Vallarta, 125 Quartermaster Court in Jeffersonville.

CLOSINGS The disappearance of two relatively new but well-regarded Old Louisville dining rooms topped the bad news list this quar ter, as both 316 Ormsby, 316 Ormsby Avenue, and Leander’s On Oak, 103 W. Oak Street, went out of business, citing operating costs and disappointing business as factors.

restaurant

Friday & Saturday Lunch 11 am - 2 pm Dinner 5:30 pm - 10 pm Sunday Brunch 9:30 am - 2 pm

Pearly’s Seafood, which had impressed with its Key West-style renovation of the old Bus Parson’s River Creek Inn at 6301 Upper River Road, made it through only one season before giving way to Cunningham’s Creekside. Also with us for all too short a time were two lovable diner-style eateries in Butchertown and Crescent Hill: Time To Eat Café closed after a very brief run at 1605 Story Avenue, and the tiny Lazy Jane Café put up the shutters after a similarly shor t stay at 2339 Frankfort Avenue.

Another shock came with the departure of Thai-Siam, 3002 Bardstown Road, Louisville’s first Thai restaurant with a tenure back to the ’80s; we also regret the loss of Thai Kitchen, Pleasure Ridge Park’s only Thai spot and a wor thy successor to the old House of Chen, at 5203 Dixie Highway.

As noted above, some of the following spots had closed without our notice over the past six months or so. We list them all here alphabetically, with a note of regret at their passing, to make the record complete: A Little Taste Of Heaven Café, 10320 Watterson Trail; Artisan’s Coffee Café, 2415 Lime Kiln Lane; Backyard BBQ, 223 W. Fifth Street, New Albany; Beg For More Café, 8402 National Turnpike; Big Subs, 9811B Old 3rd Street Road; Bull Frog Garden, 5442 Del Maria Way; China King Palace, 6203 Old Shepherdsville Road; Coffee Beanery, 7900 Shelbyville Road (Oxmoor Center); De-Ville’s, 4900 Poplar Level Road; Downtown New Orleans, 1157 S. Second Street; Eggroll King, 4819 Dixie Highway; El Restaurante Chiquito, 624 Cherry Street, New Albany; The Fish Hut, 550 W. Muhammad Ali Boulevard; Formosa Chinese Restaurant, 2116 State Street, New Albany; Grand Buffet, 5362 Dixie Highway; Julie’s of Jeffersonville, 326 Spring Street; King’s Buffet, 5538 New Cut Road; La Embajada, 7502 Preston Highway; La Marimba, 5412 Del Maria Way; Lucky Dragon, 809 S. KY 53, Lagrange; Magic Corner Bakery, 335 W. Broadway (Brown Hotel); Main Street Grind, 155 E. Main Street, New Albany; Mancinos Pizza & Grinders, 12488 Lagrange Road; Ocean Buffet, 11300 Maple Brook Way; Rainbow Blossom Bakery, 311 Wallace Avenue; Rincon Latino, 2840

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Goose Creek Road; Smokin BBQ, 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, New Albany; Taj India, 9904 Linn Station Road and The Other Place, 1600 Bardstown Road. Bombay International Market, 1591 Bardstown Road, stopped serving food but the market remains open.

The pain of the following closings was ameliorated, at least a little, by the continued operation of parent or sibling properties under the same name and management: Blimpie’s Subs and Salads gave up its outlet at 1971 S. Hurstbourne Parkway; the Bristol Bar & Grille nameplate came off the coffee shop at the Inn At Jewish, 100 E. Jefferson Street; Day’s Espresso and Coffee Bar closed its downtown presence at 720 W. Main Street; Java Brewing Co. shut down its coffee houses at 2910 Frankfort Avenue and 4013 Dutchmans Lane; and Pepper Shaker Chili & Bar-B-Q closed its takeout operation at 4912 Preston Highway.

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Miller, who’s been the general manager at the Seelbach’s Oakroom, makes a lateral move into the same post at Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse in the Waterfront Plaza.

And in the realm of awards and honors, Chef/owner Kathy Cary of Lilly’s has garnered yet another James Beard Foundation nomination—her fifth—as Best Chef of the Southeast; she’ll face four other nominees for the honor to be announced in New York City later this year.

New Yorker Drew Nieporent, owner of the Myriad Group that manages Proof on Main, is a nominee in the Outstanding Restaurateur category.

Also garnering publicity: Local pizza mini-chain Tony Boombozz was featured recently in the Southwest Airlines magazine as one of the “10 must-visit

pizzerias in the country,” and the Louisville Originals earned a mention in National Restaurant News on April 3. In a “What’s hot in Louisville” feature, NRN also listed Bourbons Bistro, Danielle’s, Intermezzo Cafe & Cabaret, Proof on Main and Seviche.

Finally, alfresco dining season is back in Louisville, and many restaurants are celebrating the arrival of spring with special outdoor menus. At Avalon, Chef Mat Shalenko has added a “New York-style urban lunch counter” as a patio feature, and Chef Anthony Lamas at Seviche celebrates the season with an extended seviche and appetizer list and wine-list changes.The new deck at Ditto’s, neatly shoehorned into their parking lot, was just about ready to launch at press time. F&D

CHANGES Finally, seven local restaurants sport new monikers now. Deke’s Marketplace Grill is now Bistro 301; The River Grille in the Galt House now goes by Café Magnolia; and Cheba Hut makes its weedy shtick just a bit more subtle as Heady’z. Anthony’s on Fourth is Theater Square Deli under new owners now; Two Guys And A Grill goes a bit more traditional in the name department as Shady Lane Café; the Star of Louisville becomes Star Cruises, and Oscar Brown’s South Beach Station has been re-christened Oscar’s Bar & Grill.

NEWS & NOTES A couple of popular local spots have changed hands recently. Sweet Surrender has been sold to new owner Jessica Haskell; also, catching up on an earlier change, Bea Chamberlain, owner of El Mundo, bought Red Lounge from Primo’s Bim Deitrich last autumn.

Meanwhile, over at Artemisia, welcome Chef Allen Heintzman, one of the many new arrivals in Louisville’s restaurant community who came here after being displaced by Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans, where he had worked at Le Provence.

On the management side, Jeremy

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BY JAY FORMAN

A Cupcake

by any other name

S

o I’m in line at Starbucks, waiting for the coed in front of me to decide whether she wants regular or low-gluten soy foam in her iced-decaf chai latte. I have a good 15 minutes to kill, and to pass the time I admire the succulent collection of pastries in the display case.That’s when I notice the … muffin?

A placard alongside the treat announces it as a “Chocolate Cream Cheese Muffin.”

Yet this thing before me is quite clearly a cupcake. Muffins have whole grains and bran and things like cranberries in them.

This is made from devil’s food cake. Muffins are small, about the size of a tennis ball.

This puppy approaches regulation softball proportions. And muffins certainly don’t have frosting. But cupcakes do, as does this beast in front of me. Sure, they can call it cream cheese, but I know better. Really, it’s frosting. And, since the frosting has been injected inside of the cupcake, technically this makes it a Ding-Dong.

Don’t get me wrong. I don’t have anything against chocolate cake. But I do have a problem with marketers attempting to pass off dessert as health food. They seem to think that by euphemistically calling a cupcake a “muffin,” they’ll fool their customers and the products will fly off of the shelves. As if people are so gullible! The 14 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

ner ve of these guys.

The sad thing is that they are correct. At least, they’re right about me.

I believe all this nonsense can be traced back to breakfast cereals, which have long represented the arena where sugar meets alleged nutritional value in a no-holds-barred cage match smackdown. On one side you’ve got shrewd advertisers. On the other side you’ve got concerned parents.

And caught in the middle are millions of 5-year-olds who aren’t asking for much except perhaps some purple marshmallows with their chocolate-waffle sugar chunks.This is nothing new, of course—the conflict spans generations—but just when did this type of marketing creep over into adult products?

My exhaustive research has led me to conclude that it began with granola. Back when I was in high school, there was pretty much only one granola bar on the market—I think it was Oat Valley. They came in paper packets of two bars and were dry and crumbly and resembled something you might reward your quarter horse with after a hard day in the ring. But I liked them, and I ate them, because they were all we had.Then one day some genius from Oat Valley’s marketing department must have said at a meeting, “Hey guys, what if instead of these things being all dry, we stuck ’em together with honey or caramel or something gooey? And instead of calling them something accurate and descriptive, like “granola candy,” we’ll just call ’em—stay with me now—‘chewy’?”

Murmurs of assent rose from the others, the change was initiated, and a terrible new plague was unleashed upon mankind. It has since grown and mutated into myriad forms, culminating with the frightening hybrids now offered by Kudos, which incorporate things like Snickers bars into their granola products.

The trend is out of control. A case in point: A coworker came into my office the other day and offered me some of her trail mix. Now, most of us remember trail mix from summer camp, right? Usually it was peanuts, raisins and sunflower seeds with some M&Ms thrown in to sweeten the deal. I seem to recall that along the way trail mix grew up a little and began incorporating a more sophisticated range of dried fruits, like banana chips and perhaps a papaya chunk or two. But I’d always assumed it stayed relatively true to its roots. Therefore, I was shocked when I took a closer look at the trail mix before me. It was essentially an anthill-sized mound of candy containing no less than three different types of chocolate chips: milk, white and caramel. I’m not sure what type of hikers the marketers had in mind when they pitched this product, but judging by the sugar-heavy debris in that bag, I sure hope that the trail can accommodate Rascal scooters and comes equipped with defibrillator paddles every 100 yards or so.

Finally, it is my turn at the Starbucks counter. I order a venti dark roast. It is bad enough that they make me order in Italian, a trend that has contaminated smaller coffee shops across the U.S. But now they demand that I call an upscale Hostess Ding Dong a “muffin.” The audacity! I cannot do it. I will not do it.

The barista asks me if I would like anything else. I pause, then mutter my answer. Reaching into the display case, she asks “Would you like that muffin for here or to go?” F&D

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travel road trip

C L E V E L A N D

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BY RON JOHNSON

M

any people know Cleveland best as the place where the Cuyahoga River used to catch on fire; but they’ve cleaned up the once astoundingly polluted river, and the only thing I noticed to be en fuego during a recent visit was the city’s active dining scene.

No longer known as “the Mistake on the Lake,” Cleveland is yet another great American city undergoing a rebirth of its urban core. Spurred by lakefront development including the Rock ’n’ Roll Hall of Fame and a new football stadium, downtown Cleveland is now home to an exciting restaurant renaissance.

In the city’s historic Warehouse District, loftstyle condos are now home to young and old urban professionals who form the core audience for a wide variety of dining options. Two best bets are Sushi Rock and Blue Point Grille. The former is renowned among Cleveland’s sushi lovers for its cutting-edge mix of authentic Japanese cuisine and playful fusion creations.The cadre of sushi chefs behind the bar transform impeccably fresh ingredients into a stunning assortment of rolls, sashimi, and fried dishes.

Blue Point Grille carries the seafood theme in a more traditionally continental direction. Here diners are treated to classic preparations of flown-in-fresh seafood in an elegant setting with service to match.

Also located in the Warehouse District is Mallorca.

This Spanish and Portuguese restaurant is a refreshing throwback to a more genteel era of dining, when teams of waiters clad in tuxedos descended on a table en masse to ensure a flawless meal.The service might be over the top at times, but it is good-spirited, and diners are made to feel right at home among steaming plates of mussels, platters of paella, and other traditional Iberian delicacies.

Not far from the Warehouse District, Porcelli’s Bistro quietly serves some of the best lunches in downtown Cleveland. Packed each day with lawyers and business people, this restaurant boasts one of the most loyal clienteles in town.The affable Sergio Porcelli is always on hand to greet and meet every patron; his parents often lend a hand during busy moments. The menu is classic Italian-American fare, with the bonus of being made from carefully sourced ingredients. Just around the corner from Porcelli’s, Chef Marlin Kaplan is getting nationwide attention for the serious new American cuisine he crafts at One Walnut Street.

Located in the ground floor of a non-descript office building, this is a sleek, modern restaurant with an ambitious menu to match. Diners are offered a choice of prix fixe menus ranging from three to six courses.

Such familiar dishes as cassoulet and crab cakes are

One Walnut Restaurant’s artichoke beignets with California Brie-style Teleme cheese and chile oil

Marlin Kaplan, chef and owner of One Walnut Restaurant

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turned on their heads with whimsical preparations and layers of flavors.The wine list is all-American, thoughtfully selected and fairly priced.

Another neighborhood with several worthwhile dining destinations is nearby Ohio City. On Market Street, the Flying Fig has developed a well-earned reputation for serious Mediterranean cuisine. In the same vein and only a few blocks away, diners can find good eats at long communal tables at Opa. As the name implies, the emphasis here is on authentic Greek dishes. Perhaps the best dining option in Ohio City is Parker’s New American Bistro. Chef Parker Bosley carries the torch for local farmers and artisan-crafted foods. Following in the footsteps of Alice Waters, Bosley’s menu pays homage to simple foods prepared well. All meat is butchered from naturally raised animals, and the assortment of vegetables is staggering, especially in the late summer months.

Food TV aficionados will recognize Lola’s, which is run by celebrity chef Michael Symon. While it has re-invented itself as Lolita’s, Symon’s full-flavored signature dishes still stun the crowds that pack the place every night. A new Lola’s is set to open soon downtown in the hip new East Fourth Street entertainment district.

Diners are keeping their fingers crossed that the Slash & Burn grouper stays on the menu. Another newcomer that is garnering serious buzz is Ponte Vecchio on the Superior Viaduct in Cleveland’s West Bank of the Flats. The space is elegant and the food is decidedly upscale.

Cleveland is an easy five-hour drive up I-71 from Louisville, and it makes a surprisingly worthwhile weekend getaway.

The city’s blue-collar ethnic roots run deep, and small restaurants featuring the city’s Eastern European heritage are worth seeking out. Polish and Hungarian cafes mingle with the Greeks and the Irish, and the result is a bounty for any tourist with an appetite. Like Louisville, Cleveland also boasts an active independent restaurant association: The Cleveland Originals (www.clevelandoriginals.com) is an excellent resource for any visitor who wants to find the very best that Cleveland has to offer in each of its distinct neighborhoods. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 17

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BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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Spice—the word conjures far horizons and foreign lands. Spices are a delicacy that has stimulated passions, created fortunes, changed history. The story of spices has been interwoven with spirituality, magic and medicine since the earliest times.

“Spice things up” … “the spice of life” … these piquant phrases suggest something special, foreign and exotic, maybe just a bit risqué.

Pictured is a world of spices from Creation Gardens.

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about food spices

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

S

pices might make you think of salt spray and the wind humming in the rigging of early merchant ships, but the first spice trade from the Far East came by land, not sea, following an overland route through western China and northern India on the well-beaten path that eventually became famous as the Silk Road.

Mediterranean civilizations treasured the spices of India and the Orient as soon as they knew of them. Cinnamon from Sri Lanka and its cousin, cassia, have been found in Egyptian tombs dating back 3,500 years. The Pharaonic dynasties ensured an active trade in spices for use in food, cosmetics and burial rites.

The Book of Exodus describes the anointing oil that Moses used as being made up of cinnamon, cassia, clamus (sweet flag) and myrrh blended with olive oil.The Queen of Sheba brought spices as gifts to Solomon, and frankincense and myrrh were listed among the gifts of the Magi to the infant Jesus.

Spices, herbs: What’s the difference?

Because of botany’s vast diversity and the many ways that different cultures exploit it, there is not always a bright line distinguishing herbs from spices. As a simple rule of thumb, though, “spice” usually describes the parts containing the most intense essence of a woody shrub or tree—seeds, bark, roots, buds and fruit—in a dried form that can be preserved and transported to faraway places while still retaining its powerful flavor.

“Herbs,” on the other hand, are usually leaves or seeds of a plant that withers to the ground after each season’s growth.

The hallmark of the spice family is its diversity. Aromatic pepper and allspice are dried berries. Cinnamon and cassia are the inner bark of a tree. Ginger, galangal and turmeric are rhizomes. Nutmegs are the kernel of the seed of a fruit similar to an apricot. Mace is the seed coating of the same fruit. Chilies, vanilla and cardamom are all fruits. Cloves are unripened flower buds, and saffron, the reddish-orange threads more valuable than gold by weight, is composed of the stamens from a flowering crocus.

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Spices were long a luxury, reserved for royalty and the rich because of their perceived rarity. Arabian traders cultivated this legend with fanciful tales to hide the more prosaic origins of the seeds, sticks and stems they sold.

Both overland routes and sailing ships called dhows that could navigate monsoon winds gave the Arabs access to India’s spice-rich Malabar Coast. At the port of Calicut (modern Calcutta) they traded for such treasures as Ceylon’s (Sri Lanka) “sweet wood” cinnamon, for which Greeks and Romans gladly traded gold.

The Arabs maintained a spice monopoly that fed the Roman Empire through the great port of Alexandria in Egypt. Later, the city-states of Venice and Genoa controlled the spice trade and amassed great wealth when Europe, inoculated by Roman cooking and reawakened by Crusaders returning from the Near East, developed an insatiable appetite for spices to enliven food and salt to preserve it. Spices reputedly even helped keep pestilence and plague at bay. In the 14th centur y, Geoffrey Chaucer wrote: The herbs were springing in the vale: Green ginger plants and liquorice pale, And cloves their sweetness to offer, With nutmegs too, to put in ale, No matter whether fresh or stale, Or else to keep in coffer.

At that time all the cloves in the world came from the Molucca Islands between Borneo and New Guinea. International frustration with the Arabian-Venetian monopoly on spices ultimately led to the 15th century European voyages of discovery, whose primary goal was new routes to the spice-rich Far East.

Prince Henry of Portugal, nicknamed “The Navigator,” was determined to circumvent the Venetian and Arabian middlemen. He gathered scholars and experienced seamen to develop new methods of navigation and ships that could sail against the wind on the open ocean to find a way around Africa.

By 1480, they had succeeded, and 17 years later Vasco de Gama would reach

India to say,“I have come for Christians and for spices.”

Not to be outdone, Spain bankrolled Christopher Columbus, who claimed he could get to the Spice Islands by heading west.

Ferdinand Magellan, respecting the 1494 Treaty of Tordesillas, followed in search of cloves and nutmeg in a threeyear expedition that took his life and failed as a trading mission but resulted in the first known circumnavigation of the globe.

Soon, European royalty chartered the famous East India companies, and the age of empire and colonialism followed—all because of spices.

Even the United States, soon after its independence, established a highly successful pepper trade with Sumatra in 1795, the profits of which helped build Massachusetts’ early industrial base.

Cross Pollination Counter-trade from the New World took to Europe capiscums cultivated by the natives of Central and South America for 9,000 years. Allspice, Jamaican sweet peppers (la pimenta) also were taken back to Europe and spread around the globe along with such other New World delicacies as tomatoes, potatoes, chocolate, vanilla, maize, peanuts and turkey.

During the last 500 years these treasures were adopted, incorporated, and ultimately deemed essential to Old World cuisines. Think of Italian cuisine without tomatoes,Thai cooking without peanuts or hot peppers, or a Hungarian kitchen without paprika.

Today, both the modern cook and diner inhabit a multi-faceted world of tradition and innovation. Cuisine recapitulates history, unearths surprises and affords opportunities to explore distant cultures and their influences on the modern world.

We live in a melting pot in which a variety of international cuisines inform and interact with each other. And nowhere is this more true than in North America.

“For me America is a land that absorbs and re-invents the cultures from all over the globe,” said Edward Lee, ownerchef at Louisville’s 610 Magnolia. “To say

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Chef Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia presents moulard duck breast smoked over aromatic spices with paprika dusted confit of duck leg. This spice mix includes black peppercorns, pink peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon stick, coriander seed, allspice cloves, caraway seeds and dried orange peel.

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Asiatique’s Chef Peng Looi offers a seasoned salmon filet with mango, pineapple and sundried tomatoes with a raspberry puree. The seasoning mix includes garlic, coriander seed, ginger, red pepper, paprika and oregano.

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American cuisine is to include all of the cuisines from around the globe. So I combine French-inspired dishes with spices from Thailand, India, the West Indies, Africa, the Caribbean.”

Lee and other distinguished chefs have become artists of the palate, using combinations that grew out of the history of the spice trade. Chilies and ginger have stepped in where pepper, mustard and horseradish once dominated. The binding quality of cinnamon and cloves, which bridge the opposite flavors of sweet and sour and are deemed essential to a good apple pie, extend their magic in entrées and side dishes.

Since mankind expanded beyond cooking one-pot meals with the invention of the modern stove, spices have added flavor, pungency and heat, earthy warmth, as well as high notes and clarity to all manner of dishes.

Rules of the game In a world of possibilities, distinguished chefs emphasize three rules when considering spices: Go fresh, go easy and explore, explore, explore.

“There is no new food in the world.

It is only through experimentation that we come up with something different,” said Chef Peng Looi of Asiatique. “Have a passion for food. Be adventurous. Try everything and you’ll remember if it’s good or if it didn’t appeal to you.”

Looi builds on his experience with Chinese, Indian and Southeast Asian cooking to create new dining experiences like oven-roasted salmon encrusted with pistachio nuts, dill and paprika. “Make sure your protein is fresh and then don’t cover it, but think of highlighting it,” he said.

Looi considers garlic and ginger as the basics in the fusion style that he explores, then branches out with selections that blend Middle Eastern sumac or sesame, Indonesian clove or Latin American cumin.

While spices often come in different forms—whole, flaked, ground, in extracts—each has a different shelf life, and whole spices keep best. The volatile oils that give spices their distinct flavors start to deteriorate quickly once they are ground and exposed to air, light and humidity.

For the best results, work with fresh spices in their whole form, grinding them as necessary before using.

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“Real fresh, just ground black pepper has a complex and luxurious taste. It makes all the difference in your dish,” said 610 Magnolia’s Lee. “Just as you would never think to make an espresso out of canned pre-ground beans and expect to get good results, so you shouldn’t think that pre-ground spices will do any better.”

Lee suggests buying an electric coffee grinder, keeping it clean and using it only for spices. A spare pepper mill or mortar and pestle can serve the same purpose.

“They are small and inexpensive,” Lee said.

“Grind only what you need just before using it.”

It follows that one needs to get realistic about all those tins and jars that have accumulated in the cabinet. Under the best circumstances (see sidebar) ground leaf, seed and bark spices are good for only six months. Ground roots may make a year. In their whole form, these “good to keep” times double.

“We stress tasting in our program.

Every day spices change, and when you have smelled fresh ground, it is very different,” said John Castro, Executive Chef at Winston’s, the restaurant associated with Sullivan University’s culinary program.

“Try and get fresh spices and rotate them.

When people ask me about cans of spices they have had in their cabinets for decades, I tell them to consider selling them on eBay.The cans will be worth more than the spices in them.”

Sources There are many sources for quality spices, including local groceries as well as specialty markets like Creation Gardens (where bulk jars let you purchase only the amount you need), organic and naturalfoods stores, and the many ethnic groceries around town.

Going into AM PM Mart on Gilmore Lane is almost like entering a Middle Eastern souk where selections of imported whole and ground spices and seasonings almost fall from the shelves amid a wonderland of Arabic-labeled foodstuffs.

A block away, the Oriental Supermarket and Gift Shop, while not carrying as large a selection of bulk spices, has a broad selection of Asian sauces, fresh Java galangal and other rarities not easily found anywhere. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 23

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Limestone’s seared curried sea scallops on crawfish succotash with red chili oil.

Let’s get fresh: How to keep your spices that way “The fresher the spices and seasonings are, the more aromatic and flavorful your meals and baked treats will be,” says Laurie Harrsen, with McCormick & Company Inc., the world’s biggest spice purveyor. “But how do you know? Use the sight, smell and taste tests.”

Harrsen offers a few quick tips for getting the most out of your spice rack.

“Check to see that the color is vibrant,” she said. “If the color has faded, it’s likely the flavor has, too. Rub or crush the spice or herb in your hand. If the aroma is weak, it’s time to replace it.Taste it. If the flavor isn’t apparent, it’s time to replace it.”

To prolong the life of your spices, keep them away from heat, moisture, and direct sunlight. In other words, don’t store spices or herbs over the stove, dishwasher or sink or near a sunny window.

Other tips to ensure the best spice experience:

Grind your own. Whenever possible,

buy whole spices and grind them just before use in a clean coffee grinder or mortar and pestle.

Keep spices stored in air-tight bottles.

Use a completely dry measuring

spoon when dipping into a spice bottle. Moisture will make the contents deteriorate.

Don’t sprinkle spices directly from the

bottle over a steaming pot. Measure them into a bowl first and then add them. Steam hastens flavor loss.

Members of the red pepper family,

including paprika, chilies and cayenne, will retain their color and remain fresher when stored in the refrigerator.

Taste-test frequently, and buy in small quantities to avoid loss.

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Don’t dismiss the traditional supermarket. Turnover rates can be higher than at specialty stores, meaning basics are likely to be stocked on a more recent basis.

Exploring on the Internet (see sidebar) also provides access to a broad selection of quality products along with a world of information by which to expand one’s education.

Techniques When working with fresh spices, go easy to let the flavoring enhance a dish rather than overpowering it. A good rule of thumb is to use one-half teaspoon of a freshly ground spice for a dish that serves four, later adjusting the amount for the most appealing flavor. As with herbs, the drying process concentrates oils, so it is not necessary to add as much dried spice as one would in a fresh form.

In addition to fresh grinding, spices may be pan-roasted or tempered in cooking oil to bring out their flavors. Pan roasting helps release the aroma of spices like cumin, coriander, mustard, fennel, poppy and sesame seeds. Just heat a heavy skillet over medium heat until hot, add spice and toast for two to five minutes, stirring to prevent burning, until it becomes fragrant or lightly browned. Tempering involves releasing the aromatic volatile oil of a spice into oil, then using the flavored oil to spice the dish. Heat oil in saute pan, cook the spices until they change color and release flavor, then add them to the main dish ingredients.

Making spice infusions is another excellent way to experiment with spices at home, said Lee. “Be patient and try flavoring your olive oils and vinegars, or make a sweet syrup infusion with your favorite spices. Infusions take a long time, a month or more, but then they last for months if stored correctly.”

Here’s another golden rule, Lee and others said: Keep it simple. “I am always careful to use limited spices in a dish; too many and it confuses the issue,” Lee said.

“The only exception would be smoking meats with aromatic spices or in the case of curries.”

Chef Michael Cunha of Limestone agrees.“We like to use spices to enhance, never to overwhelm. If you rub juniper or something else on food, you want to taste the food.” A popular Limestone dish

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combines several of the above techniques in an oven-seared duck breast that is encrusted with toasted cumin and coriander before cooking.

“Diners are attracted by innovation, which means melding classical techniques and upgrading them into new flavors and cooking styles that appeal to the modern palate,” Cunha said.

Fine fare with distinctive spice signatures shows up in a recent upsurge in Persian cuisine. “We think of our cooking as the original food of the world,” said Majid Ghavami, who led the way with the opening of his Saffron’s in 2001. “While it has spread around the globe it has remained true to its roots, changing very little over the centuries. The best ingredients and careful preparation are the keys to success.”

Ghavami recently opened a second spot, Saffron’s Buffet on Fifth Street, where he is attracting a strong lunchtime crowd with tahcheen, a chicken stew flavored with turmeric and saffron, as well as basmati rice flavored with barberries or mixed with lentils, raisins and cinnamon.

“We also use dried lime, tomatoes and tarragon, angelica seed and nuts along with honey as a natural sweetener,” Ghavami said. “Our signature desert at Saffron’s is an ice cream made with pistachio nuts, saffron and rosewater.”

Another popular dish at Saffron’s, a rack of lamb broiled on a skewer, is given clean, citrus high notes with the simple addition of lemon juice and powdered sumac before being served.

Endless possibilities Such simple combinations can suggest a world of possibilities to the curious cook and underpin even the most artful fusion creations.

“Use spices to layer flavors against each other in order to wake up a dish,” said 610 Magnolia’s Lee.“Mango, for example, is musky and sweet and it has a wonderful flavor all its own. Add a little chili to it and it takes on a new dimension. There are many examples of this: lime and coriander, duck and star anise, cauliflower and caraway, etc.”

“We are seeing people’s curiosity and openness to new ideas,” Lee said. “For example, savory spices being used in sweet www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 25

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dishes like white pepper ice cream and sweet saffron syrup, which would have been taboo even a few years ago, are now accepted and even welcomed.”

“We are seeing a greater demand in both the restaurant trade and in retail.

People are looking for bolder flavors and a little more punch in their food,” said Jim Walker of Creation Gardens.“There is also all the information out there with cooking shows and the Internet. There is a much more educated audience today that is seeking out unusual flavors and spices.

People are coming in on a regular basis looking for things, oftentimes with a recipe in hand.”

There is a potential side benefit for diners taking a new interest in spices.

Modern science has found that many of them are rich in antioxidants, phyto-

nutrients and—in some cases such as sweet peppers and capsicum—bountiful vitamin C. While medieval Europe may have missed the mark with pomanders made of clove-studded Valencia oranges cured in spices as a means to ward off the plague, science has found that spices do indeed boast antibacterial properties and are rich in healthful antioxidants.

Garlic has antibiotic properties, is used worldwide as a blood tonic and might even lower cholesterol levels. Nutmeg stimulates the cardiovascular system and relieves inflammation. Ginger helps relieve nausea and motion sickness. And fennel is known as a diuretic.

When spices are on your table, then, it might make sense to add “to your health” to the usual “bon appétit!” F&D

Surfing the Internet Spice Road?

Here are some spice-related websites worth exploring: www.penzeys.com (a Wisconsin company, known for quality and user-friendly service.You can download their catalog online.) www.spice-appeal.com (offers a nice selection of whole spices with information about their history and uses.) www.mccormick.com (the largest spice company in the world, has an informative website that spans crop field reports from their chief buyer to winning recipes for blends.) www.apinchof.com (sometimes whimsical, often different, always entertaining.) www.atlanticspice.com www.naturalmarket.com www.epicentre.com www.creativeseasonings.com Two sites that specialize in certified organic offerings: www.ccwbotanicals.com www.naturalmarket.com

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

fluke martini

W

hat’s a seviche? It’s only half a joke to dub it “Latino sushi,” though it’s not quite raw: In this Peruvian and Ecuadorian tradition, fish or seafood is marinated in citrus juice, literally “cooking” in a sharply acidic marinade.

If you’re squeamish about sushi, you may gain reassurance from knowing that seviche turns firm and opaque under the marinating process, losing its raw translucency and texture. But however you feel about sushi, we believe you’ll be smitten by seviche. It’s a light, fresh and appetizing dish, cool and subtly complex in textures and flavors.

Seviche, pronounced “Seh-vee-che” and alternatively spelled “ceviche” or “cebiche,” quickly spread from its equatorial place of origin along the Pacific coast of the Americas from Chile to Mexico and on to California, and it’s now gaining attention around the world.

At Seviche restaurant in Louisville, chef Anthony Lamas offers an extensive Nuevo Latino bill of fare with a dozen seviche selections that range from the traditional recipes to such offbeat variations as beef tenderloin seviche or an oyster “shooter” with an attention-getting jolt of Latino spice.

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Here Lamas gives us a peek into Seviche’s kitchen as he shows us how to make his unusual “Fluke mar tini” seviche, a creative twist on the tradition, served straight up in a mar tini glass—and bathed at tableside with a zippy “broth” shaken, not stirred, in a bartender’s shiny martini shaker Use the freshest un-frozen fish available from a trustworthy vendor to make seviche, Lamas advises: Any off flavors in

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the fish will show in the dish, and freezing ruins texture. To replicate the Seviche original, you’ll need fluke (a delicate spotted flounder), but feel free to substitute any fresh, firm white fish such as halibut, snapper or grouper. At Seviche, the ingredients in the mar tini-shaken broth vary from night to night, depending on the chef ’s whim. Lamas suggests this simple citrus-vodka version for enjoying at home.

SEVICHE’S FLUKE MARTINI SEVICHE (SERVES FOUR For the seviche: 24 ounces impeccably fresh fluke or other firm, white-fleshed fish 4 fresh lemons 4 fresh limes 1 tablespoon good-quality olive oil Sea salt For the pico de gallo: 1 fresh red tomato 1 fresh yellow tomato (or use two red tomatoes if you prefer) 1 /2 medium red onion 1 fresh serrano (hot) or jalapeño (medium) chile pepper Fresh cilantro Sea salt For the broth: 1 yuzu (a Japanese citrus fruit; or substitute 1 lime if unavailable) 1 fresh orange 1 /4 cup vodka (Lamas uses Grey Goose orange-flavor vodka for this dish) Sea salt For garnish: 6 julienne strips of peeled jicama 6 corn tortillas, fried crisp 1. Make the seviche. Cut the fish into neat 1/4-inch dice. Squeeze all the lemons and limes, removing seeds. Pour about half of the juice into a flat, shallow pan or dish, and whisk in the olive oil and salt to taste, reserving the rest of the juice. Put in the fish, stirring a couple of times so it’s coated with the citrus liquid.

Allow to marinate for about two hours for fluke, or four hours for firmer-fleshed fish. If you’re truly concerned about eating uncooked fish (although there’s no need to be), let it go for up to six hours,

TO

SIX)

no longer, to “cook” completely. Drain off and discard the liquid.

2. Make the pico de gallo. While the fish is marinating, cut the tomatoes into 1/4-inch dice, about the same size as the cut-up pieces of fish. Pro chefs will peel the tomatoes and remove the seeds and juice before dicing the meat, but you can skip this step at home if you prefer to save time and effort. Chop the red onion fine, mince the chile pepper and roughly chop the cilantro. Reserve a little of the red onion and chile pepper for the “broth.” Mix all these ingredients together in a small bowl with one-half of the reserved citrus juice and a little sea salt, and let them marinate for an hour or two.

3. Make the “broth.” Squeeze the yuzu (sometimes available from Creation Gardens) or the additional lime and the orange, and blend these juices with the remaining lemon and lime juice. Stir in the reserved chopped red onion and chile pepper and the vodka.

4. Assemble the dish. Using a martini glass (or a small glass bowl, if you prefer) for each serving, put a portion of the drained fish in the bottom of each. Put a dollop of pico de gallo in the middle of each. Then shake the “broth” mixture vigorously with six ice cubes in a martini shaker, and strain a share of the liquid over each serving. (If you don’t have a martini shaker, use a bowl, and strain the liquid before serving.)

To complete the Seviche treatment, optionally garnish each serving with a julienne strip of jicama and two halves of a crunchy fried tortilla. F&D

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BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Bourbon Bars

I

n Louisville, the epicenter of Bourbon country, diners enjoy a selection of Bourbons for pre-meal Manhattans or after-dinner sipping that’s as broad and varied as you’d expect of a high-end wine list.

Sometimes we don’t realize how lucky we are: Try to find a choice of more than a halfdozen Bourbons in most cities, and you’ll likely be disappointed. In our town, though, plenty of establishments adhere to the Mae West philosophy, “Too much of a good thing can be wonderful.”

Here’s my personal, if random, selection of favorite Louisville bars and restaurants that take this motto very seriously indeed.

The list is presented in order based on the size of the Bourbon selection, and is limited to establishments with at least 40 brands available.

Bourbons Bistro

A pair of Bourbon flights from Bourbons Bistro

Bourbon Count: 130+

Bourbons Bistro is not unlike the jelly company Smuckers:With a name like that, it has to be good. Their moniker makes it certain that some of Kentucky’s finest will be poured, but owners John Morrison and Jason Brauner go out of their way to find, and sample, every Bourbon they can get their hands on.

Enter their quarters on Frankfort where the starkly clean white kitchen on the right side gives way to the warm glow of Bourbon’s inviting bar on the left, and you’ll find where the marriage of “white dog” corn liquor and charred oak take their honeymoon. Bonus: Bourbon’s Bistro and Maker’s Mark Lounge are the only two places on this list where you may to enjoy a cigar with your Bourbon, and their advanced spinning smoke eaters make sure smokers and non-smokers can have a good time in harmony.

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Jockey Silks Bourbon Bar

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Bourbon Count: 130+

Finding my way there wasn’t the easiest, but I came looking for a legend and I found it, in all of its 1970s retro glory, on the second floor of The Galt House. The wood paneling, the clubby chairs and the large selection of Bourbons on the back bar make for a comfortable evening of introduction for the uninitiated or deeper exploration for the advanced imbiber. I sat down to a menu of aggressively consumer-friendly priced Bourbons and a knowledgeable bartender, who delivered my Old Grand-dad 114 in a small brandy snifter with separate ice and water backs, standard. All this fun, plus a roving magician on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, make the Jockey Silks Bourbon Bar worth a return trip.

Maker’s Mark Lounge

Bourbon Count: 60+

One of Louisville’s premier drinking establishments, Maker’s Mark Lounge puts Bourbon at the top of the cool list when it comes to drinking. And with its prime tourist location inside the Fourth Street Live complex, it is helping to spread that coolness across the country. Check out the perimeter booths where you can enjoy great conversation while chilling on leather couches behind gauzy white curtains. If you prefer to belly up to the bar, Maker’s Mark Lounge has one of the longest in the city—and a Bourbon selection to match.With late-night DJs on the weekend and outdoor furniture in the summer, Maker’s Mark Lounge is helping to make downtown the place to be.

Proof on Main

Bourbon Count: 45+

Cassandra Hobbic took her impressive knowledge of spirits with her when she left Lilly’s for the artful confines of the new Proof on Main in the 21C Museum Hotel. Hobbic has stocked Proof ’s cool, modern bar with a full array of premium spirits. Brown is the color of choice when it comes to spirits at Proof, as proven by the array of Bourbons and ryes—not to mention a similarly impressive count of rums and tequilas. Comfortable furnishings, mood-altering lighting and a dressed-to-be-seen crowd all reflect Proof ’s efforts to make downtown hip again. Don’t forget to rub Randy’s apple on the way out for good luck. (Randy, you’ll learn, is the awesome, anatomically correct, bronze satyr near the corner of the bar.)

Park Place on Main

Bourbon Count: 45+

Indian Restaurant

With more than 250 premium spirits and 300 wines to choose from, you could say Park Place has a well-stocked bar; the bookcase-like glass shelves set into the wall are reserved for our native delight. Park Place maintains more than 45 different Bourbons on those shelves, along with almost a dozen American rye, wheat, and single-malt whiskeys. Sip one neat, or browse the cocktail page, where there’s no reluctance to blend such favorites as Park Place Personal Selection Woodford Reserve with such exotic additives as blueberries or pears or even curry-scented garam masala or star anise. Don’t be afraid.

Slip in for a libation before a Bats game, or better yet, for no good reason other than to sip warm brown liquor and listen to Steve Crews work the baby grand.

The Oakroom’s Anteroom

Come In and See What’s

NEW! NEW MENU! NEW PATIO! Interior Renovated & Upgraded!

Bourbon Count: 40+

The dictionary defines an anteroom as an outer room, usually used as a waiting area. At the old Seelbach, historian Larry Johnson claims, it was the room where you had to “ante up” during the Roaring ’20s, when Prohibition didn’t do much to slow down gambling or drinking either.You feel a sense of history when you walk into the Seelbach, and nowhere is it more apparent than this mezzanine-level sanctuary, where you can quietly contemplate that nostalgia, lubricated by one of Kentucky’s native spirits. The Old Seelbach Bar downstairs offers plentiful Bourbon, too, with Dick Sisto’s cool jazz; but the charm of ordering from Max’s Bar, a small nook secretly tucked behind a fold-in painting, is worth the trip upstairs. F&D On his day job, Food & Dining spirits writer Jerry Slater, a recognized Bourbon expert, is the General Manager of Park Place on Main and Browning’s Restaurant & Brewery.

LUNCH HOURS: Monday - Friday ✦ 11:30a - 3:00p

Lunch Buffet: Saturday & Sunday ✦ 11:30a - 3:00p DINNER HOURS: Sunday - Thursday ✦ 5:00p - 10:00p Friday & Saturday ✦ 5:00p - 10:30p Take Out & Catering Available 1285 Bardstown Road (Across from Mid-City Mall)

(502) 473-8765

✦

473-2078

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

BBC’s Phillip Deamer hammers a “bung” into a cask filled with Jefferson’s Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout.

W

henever I hear the word “tradition” used in the context of beer, I reach for my Jolly

Pumpkin.

The beers of Michigan brewing company Jolly Pumpkin bear little resemblance to the classic German lager styles that are the forbearers of mass-market brewing all across the world. Jolly Pumpkin’s impossibly eclectic array of Belgian and Northern French influenced ales are all aged in oak barrels, and they take a quirky and pleasing character from the experience.

Traditional? Hardly. But it would be a fallacy of palate-diminishing scale to dismiss such innovation just because it’s not your father’s growler.The pertinence of brewing tradition lies in one’s dedication to craft and respect for the art and science, not in slavish adherence to one specific way of doing things. The ways of brewing have changed before, and they’ll continue to change as new cadres of beer enthusiasts define their own lives and times.

Until the early decades of the 19th century, brewing was elemental, quirky, local and only loosely collated. Methods changed in a revolutionary way when scientific breakthroughs and technological advances in Germany and Central Europe led to a new kind of beer—Lager.

“Lager” beer was everything that its predecessors were not. It was clear, not cloudy; pale, not dark; and in contrast with fruity and often sour ales, it was clean to the palate—fermented and aged in cool temperatures, and using yeast selected for the purpose, not merely 32 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

plucked haphazardly from nature, for the job of converting sugars to alcohol.

Newfangled lager turned tradition on its head, and it became an international sensation, remaining so to this very day.

Predictably, innovation became convention. Within a century, lager in its own turn had become “traditional,” not to mention stodgy, monopolistic and just plain boring.

This necessitates a counter-revolution to restore vitality to the art.

The American micro-brewing revolution is a quarter-century young, and thankfully, almost everywhere there is a brewery, there is an exuberant spirit of experimentation, of reconsidering the old and making it new again.

In the Midwest, no state better exemplifies this trend than Michigan, home of Jolly Pumpkin, Bell’s, Dark Horse, New Holland, Arcadia and Founders, just to name six breweries that actively fuse tradition with innovation as they keg and bottle upwards of four dozen different brands and styles of beer, shipping many of them to grateful consumers in Indiana and Kentucky.

There’s a whole world of brewing tradition and contemporary innovation to be found in beers like Arcadia Scotch Ale, Bell’s Two-Hearted Ale, Dark Horse Blueberry Stout, Founders Red’s Rye, Jolly Pumpkin La Roja, New Holland Dragon’s Milk, and others too numerous to list. Look for beers brewed by these microbreweries and enjoy them—and pray that their ethos expands.

Given the long history of brewing, the use of wooden barrels to store and dispense beer is a tradition of long standing,

predating the development of bottling and stainless steel. It is a practice that has persisted in isolated European areas like West Flanders—where huge oak barrels at the famous Rodenbach brewery are filled with red ale for aging; and Bamberg— where the Schlenkerla smoked lager brewery still hoists wooden kegs onto the tabletop and dispenses the house beer from them.

In American micro-brewing circles, a new tradition of barrel conditioning is joyfully resurgent, boasting a style category of its own at the Great American Beer Festival. As with Jolly Pumpkin, some approach the use of wooden barrels in the traditional Rodenbach manner, while others have taken to aging certain beers in Bourbon barrels.

In the dozen years since Fred Eckhardt, the dean of American beer writers, announced to the brewing world that Goose Island’s Bourbon County Stout was the best beer he’d ever tasted at the GABF, numerous beers have been aged in barrels previously used to house Bourbon.

BBC Beer Company’s David Pierce, Louisville’s longest tenured local microbrewer, did this for the first time in 1994.

He brewed a German-style Doppelbock and filled a recently emptied Bourbon barrel with the nectar. A cold snap hit, providing the bonus opportunity to freeze the beer, transforming his final product into a Bourbon-barrel-aged Eis Doppelbock.

Why would an overworked brewer like Pierce undertake the labor-intensive process of clearing space in the brewery and aging beer for two to three months in a Bourbon barrel?

Here’s why: Just as raw whiskey gained its smooth, multifaceted character from spending time in that charred oak vessel, the beer in its turn absorbs complex flavors from the wood and the residual whiskey that infuses it. The product, in short, is worth the time and effort that goes into making it. Ideally, these Bourbon flavor components of oak and vanilla will be subtle, contextual and complementary to the style of beer being aged; that’s why bigger beers are generally best for Bourbon-barrel aging. Light lagers would

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be overwhelmed, but roasty stouts, bocks and strong Belgian-style brews are prime candidates for such enhancement.

Pierce’s single-barrel experiment was followed by others as Louisville’s microbrewing scene expanded. The late Pipkin released its Bourbon Barrel Stout in the late 1990s, and by most accounts it was the brewery’s finest beer. In 2004, the New Albanian Brewing Company’s Bourbondaddy was voted the Best of Show in the Indiana State Fair commercial brewing competition.

Lexington’s Alltech (Kentucky Ale) introduced a well-received commercial entry into the marketplace in 2005, and now Brian Reymiller, brewer for Browning’s at Louisville Slugger Field, is creating a yearround version of his Bourbon-barrel-aged Imperial Stout to be sold at Louisville’s Executive West hotel and Asiatique restaurant, among others.

All these examples of Bourbon-barrelaged beer have one significant element in common: While barrels from different distilleries were used, and sometimes the exact brand of Bourbon informally publicized— as in the case of the relationship between Browning’s and Labrot & Graham, which bottles a house version of Woodford Reserve for the brewpub’s sister Park Place restaurant and provides Reymiller the barrels he uses for aging his beer—none of the breweries had entered into formal cobranding arrangements with a distillery.

Until early 2006, when the saga of Louisville’s barrel-conditioning micro-brewers came full circle, back to David Pierce and the BBC Beer Company, which entered into a strategic partnership with McLain & Kyne Distillery, maker of Jefferson’s Reserve, to create BBC’s Jefferson’s Reserve Bourbon Barrel Stout.

The key to Pierce’s recipe is a purposebrewed sweet stout in the range of 7.5 percent alcohol by volume. It is racked into the empty Bourbon barrels and allowed to age between 60 and 90 days before final tasting and blending with a fresh batch of the same stout before bottling for national distribution.

If innovation creates new traditions, then what could be more natural than Kentucky Bourbon and Kentucky microbrew happily joining forces to stimulate the minds and palates of beer enthusiasts, in Louisville and nationwide? F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 33

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BY DAVID LANGE

on the rocks

S

ummer’s on its way, and there’s nothing better to cool those lazy, hazy days than a tall cup of … coffee.

Sure! Coffee’s not just for breakfast anymore—and not just for cold weather.

Just as a steaming cup brings warming pleasure on freezing days, there’s summer comfort in a bracing glass swirling with cream, chunks of ice, and a heady, rich ration of java. Cold coffee is good.

Iced coffee retains the awakening kick of the hot version but is even more refreshing. With a wide variety of recipes, there’s an iced coffee beverage to suit just about everyone’s tastes.

Many cultures share the tradition of iced coffee beverages—Italy offers caffe freddo, Malaysia has its kopi-o, and the Thai and Vietnamese offer their own interpretations. The first iced coffees, though, may have been dispensed to French soldiers on their way to battle in Morocco. “… the French colonial troops were first served with a drink made from coffee syrup and cold water on marches near Mazagran,” William Ukers reports in his book, All About Coffee. “Upon their return to the French capital, they introduced the idea, with the added fillip of service in tall glasses, in their favorite cafés, where it became known as café mazagran.”

34 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Iced coffee is different everywhere you go, says Sherri Johns, of WholeCup Coffee Consulting in Portland, Oregon. If you order a caffe freddo in Italy, you’ll probably get a shot of espresso in a demitasse, served with a tall glass of ice and sugar. Another favorite Italian coffee drink is the caffe freddo shakereto, made with sweetened espresso shaken with crushed ice. In Thailand and Vietnam, iced coffee is customarily made with robust drip coffee brewed double strength and accented with sweetened condensed milk.

Ready to make your own? First, choose your coffee bean. Start with a darkroast coffee blend, then experiment to find which coffee blend best suits your palate.

Now, we’re ready to brew.

Make a fresh pot of coffee, brewing it strong so it will stand up to dilution when it hits the ice. Pour the coffee into a carafe or pitcher, and sweeten it, if you wish, while it’s hot. Let the coffee cool for three hours at room temperature or an hour-and-a-half in the fridge. (Never put a pot of hot coffee directly into the refrigerator; the sudden change in temperature may crack the glass.) Once the coffee is well chilled, it’s ready to serve in a tall glass over lots of ice. Add cream or milk, if you wish, and enjoy your cooling drink.

If you need a lift, try making ice cubes with fresh coffee, not water: These wacky blocks won’t dilute your drink as they add another level of caffeine buzz.

For another change of pace, try your iced coffee James Bond-style,“shaken not stirred,” using a cocktail shaker. I suggest a durable, dishwasher-safe stainless-steel shaker with a built-in strainer. Fill the shaker with plenty of ice. Pour cream or milk, if desired, over the ice, then pour in the hot coffee, put on the shaker lid, and shake, shake, shake! All at once you’re quickly chilling the hot coffee while mixing and frothing all the ingredients. You don’t need to shake for more than 10 to 20 seconds before you strain the goodies into tall, cold glasses or maybe a classy martini glass.

Want a more exotic treat this summer? Pick up a Vietnamese coffee press at one of our Asian groceries, and try your hand at Vietnamese or Thai iced coffee.The coffee press looks a little like a stainless steel top hat, with a brim that rests on the coffee cup and a perforated cylinder in the middle. Fill the “hat” with ground coffee, pour in steaming hot water, and strong, clear, coffee drips slowly into the cup, where it blends with sweetened condensed milk.

If you don’t want to invest in a press, French-roast espresso or dark coffee with chicory will work as a substitute.

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CA PHE SUA DA (VIETNAMESE-STYLE ICED COFFEE) 2 to 4 tablespoons finely ground dark roast coffee (or coffee with chicory) 2 to 4 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk Boiling water Ice cubes Place ground coffee in Vietnamese coffee press and screw on its lid. Put the sweetened condensed milk in the bottom of a coffee cup, and set the coffee maker on the rim. Pour boiling water into the press, adjusting the tension of its lid until bubbles appear through the water and coffee drips slowly out the bottom of the press.

When all the water has dripped through, stir the milk and coffee. Serve warm as ca phe sua nong, or pour it over ice as ca phe sua da.

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THAI ICED COFFEE Cardamom pods Strong, black ground coffee Sugar Evaporated (not condensed) milk Grind two or three cardamom pods (available in grocery spice sections), and mix them in with the ground coffee before preparing a pot at a good European-style strength. Sweeten the coffee to taste while it’s hot, then cool quickly.

Serve over ice with unsweetened evaporated milk (or heavy cream if you’re feeling extra indulgent). To get the traditional layered effect, hold a spoon just above the coffee and pour the milk slowly over the spoon so it floats on the coffee rather than mixing in.

Vietnamese coffee should taste a bit like melted Häagen-Dazs® coffee ice cream, while Thai iced coffee has more fragrant and lighter flavors from the cardamom and evaporated milk. Both are exquisite, and not difficult to make once you’ve got the equipment.

When the temperature soars this summer, try your hand at iced coffee. That “cooling caffeine high” could become addictive. F&D

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The Summit Brownsboro Road at Gene Snyder www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 35

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BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

S

ome like it hot, and some like it hotter. Four-alarm chili? Don’t mind if I do! Five-pepper Thai dishes?

Bring ’em on!

From China’s chile-laced Sichuan and Hunan cuisines to fiery Indian vindaloo and on around the world to the simmering sizzle of Ethiopian wots, the joys of Jamaican jerk chicken and the zydeco burn of Cajun fare, the world’s equatorial cuisines light us up with a happy glow.

Believe it or not, that jalapeño-popping good mood isn’t entirely in your imagination. Doctors say that the active ingredient in hot chile peppers, capsaicin (pronounced “cap-SAY-uh-sin”), actually triggers your nervous system to release “substance P,” a chemical messenger that yells “FIRE!” Your brain responds by producing endorphins—the same natural painkillers that your body produces to generate that obviously false sense of well-being when you’ve half-killed yourself on the minimarathon. In other words, hot and spicy food is a cheap and easy way to enjoy a “runner’s high” without having to exercise.

What’s more, although it may feel as if your mouth is on fire, the hottest of hot peppers won’t physically burn you. But when a bite of fiery fare has your palate— literally—all aglow, what’s the best beverage to use for washing it down?

This may surprise you, coming in an article about wine, but when you’re dealing 36 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

with hot-and-spicy fare, many experts advise skipping wine entirely. Why? You don’t want to pour alcohol on a burn, and a shot of wine with its 12 to 14 percent alcohol can turn the pleasant chile-pepper glow of a potent curry or peppery Thai dish into something that feels more like second-degree charring.

Water or iced tea are quenching, but some experts fret that these liquids may simply spread the hot chile oils more efficiently around your palate so all parts of your mouth hurt. A better option comes with the “palate-scrubbing” effect of carbonation, a point in favor of a Coke or other soft drink, or better yet, a cold beer.

In parts of the world where fiery fare is commonplace, though, the people who dine daily on these mouth-scorching cuisines typically turn to non-alcoholic dairy-type drinks: In India, a yogurt-based lassi—plain, salty or whipped with mango—is the call drink for fiery curries.

The Thais love a cream-laced iced coffee, and Vietnamese get a similar effect with iced coffee dripped into thick, sweet condensed milk; others enjoy coconut milk or a tall, cold glass of Grade A. All these potions share a simple benefit:They soothe rather than heightening the flames.

But we’re here to talk about wine, and let’s face it, sometimes, no matter how hotand-spicy the dish, you want a glass of wine to go with it. Wine, after all, evolved as a

drink to go with food, and wine makers have been working on it for more than 5,000 years. They’ve had time enough to get it right, even with challenging pairings.

In choosing a wine that will work with fiery fare, it’s useful to keep a few simple principles in mind:

Avoid high alcohol. As noted, alcohol

stings, and the combination of strong wine with a chile burn can be downright painful. Pass by that blockbuster Shiraz with its 14.5 percent alcohol in favor of something lighter—a quality German Riesling, for instance, may come in as low as 8 or 9 percent.

Choose a fruity wine. Think of the

sweet, fruity chutneys often served with Indian food and pick a wine with a fruit-forward style for a similar flavor match. Aromatic whites like Riesling or Muscat serve just fine; or a very berry Zinfandel, provided you check the fine print on the back label to avoid a highoctane model. Avoid astringently “tannic” wines like immature Cabernets, too.

Again, you want to avoid any harsh character in the wine that will rub your spice-battered taste buds the wrong way.

Sweet ’n’ sour works. Just as fruity wines

seem to envelop fiery food in a gentle, soothing blanket, so do slightly sweet wines add a mellow component to the food-and-wine equation. Somewhat

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counter-intuitively, highly acidic wines often fare well with hot-and-spicy dishes too; apparently their tart and tangy nature literally wets your whistle, helping to dilute and wash down the five-alarm flavor.

Pop a bubbly. Remember what I said about carbonated soft drinks and beer?

Happily, sparkling wines work in a similar way: Their fizz works to scrub the hotchile oils from your palate, and these wines are usually well matched with food. And what could be more festive than a bottle of Champagne to wash down your dinner?

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Put it all together, and a few specific wines pop out as top picks for the fireextinguishing chore: German Rieslings fare well because they’re slightly sweet, low in alcohol and high in acidity. If you like it, the popular albeit snob-shunned White Zinfandel (“blush” wine) will perform similar duty. Floral and aromatic whites like Viognier or Gewurztraminer stand up to five-alarm dishes with their fruit and acid.

Want a red? The aforementioned Zinfandel or a California Petite Sirah can stand up to aggressively spiced dishes. But for the best time, call B-U-B-B-L-Y … and for extra credit, look for a sparkling wine that’s low in alcohol and slightly sweet: The sparkling Italian Asti Spumante (now usually sold as just-plain Asti), or the much-maligned but attractively inexpensive Lambrusco, a fizzy, sweet and low-alcohol red wine from Emilia-Romagna, possibly the most foodcrazy place in all of Italy.

Here’s a tasting report on another Italian wine, Moscato d’Asti, a low-alcohol cousin of Asti Spumante. Currently available at Louisville fine-wine shops for $12 to $14, it made a great match with a homemade Sichuan beef and chile-pepper dish as fiery hot as I could crank up in the trusty wok.

Marsilio 2004 “Marco Negri” Moscato d’Asti ($12.99) This is a clear, watery pale wine with a faint greenish glint. Its standard wine cork comes out with an audible pop, and it pours up in the glass with a quick, frothy fizz. Delicious peach and grapefruit aromas carry over in the flavor, soft and sweet, with gentle carbonation to tickle the tongue. At only 5.5 percent alcohol—about the same strength as many microbrewery beers—you can safely take a gulp, or several, to quench that delicious hot-pepper fire. F&D

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people and places profiles

BY ROBIN GARR & MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

what an original idea!

It all started in a very small way, as large ideas so often do, with a casual conversation between friends.

“How’s business?” asked Irish Rover’s Michael Reidy.

“Not bad, but it could be better,” said Andrew Hutto of Baxter Station.

It was a common thread in conversations between the two men and others in the local restaurant business, Hutto says, in a world where competition for the consumer’s entertainment dollar is increasingly keen.With one cookie-cutter corporate eatery reportedly raking in $13 million a year at an average property, it can be tough for small independent businesses to carve out even a puny slice of the pie.

The conversation may have started as a casual taking-care-of-business complaint, but it had a serious edge. In the restaurant business, with its tight margins and competitive nature, new, well-financed corporate entities can’t be ignored. How could local restaurateurs meet the challenge?

T

alking over the challenge as autumn turned to winter in 2004, Hutto recalled, he and Reidy had an insight: “We thought we and other local restaurateurs ought to start working together more: We’d rather have people eating in one of our restaurants than a chain.”

And just like that—well, almost just like that— Louisville Originals was born. Fired up by the notion that the city’s independent eateries could benefit from joining forces to market themselves as a group, and

38 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

maybe save some bucks by uniting their buying power, too, Hutto and Reidy started approaching their peers with the idea.

Most of them got it right away, Hutto said, and the process gained speed when they found the Council of Independent Restaurants of America (CIRA), a national organization of local groups of independent restaurateurs that, Hutto says, works “to prevent the dumbing down of the American palate.” CIRA made it easy to organize and provided access to buying power,

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and at the end of 2004, Louisville Originals was born.

The group’s primary marketing effort, Louisville Originals gift certificates, has been a stunning success, at least if you measure success in terms of public response. The gift certificates—offered quarterly through the Louisville Originals website, www.LouisvilleOriginals.com, sell out within hours after they become available. (First notice of each quarterly sale goes out in E-mail to supporters who register on the LouisvilleOriginals.com website; the sale is also pre-announced on the forum at LouisvilleHotBytes.com.)

The gift-certificate program benefits the individual restaurants, the local organization and CIRA in an up-by-yourbootstraps fashion, Hutto said. Each member restaurant pays its $2,600 annual dues not in cash but in gift certificates.

Louisville Originals sells the certificates online, keeping the revenue for operating expenses and turning over a percentage of its dues to the national organization.

This program gives diners the incentive to choose a member restaurant, Hutto said, and virtually every such group ends up spending well over the face value of the certificate. The owner of one upscale local dining room, Hutto said, reported a party of six that arrived bearing gift certificates and went on to ring up a dinner tab exceeding $1,000.

“We can’t do that at Baxter Station,” he cracked. “The program has proven itself. It brings customers to our door, and they stay on as regulars.”

Gift certificates are backed by more traditional marketing tactics that range from advertising to restaurant table cards and a good supply of Louisville Originals T-shirts. A new venture, the Louisville Originals Birthday Club, gained momentum quickly after its launch this past winter: Sign up and provide your birthday on the group’s website, and when the happy day rolls around, show up for lunch or dinner at a participating restaurant. Free meal? Well, no. But they’ll mark your day with a birthday treat that may range from a free appetizer or dessert to a T-shirt.

Louisville Originals’ other primary goal, leveraging the group’s joint buying power, has been more difficult, a controversial effor t that has created some hard feelings among local suppliers who weren’t chosen—or, Hutto observes,

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elected not to bid for—the group’s business. “CIRA warned me that I’d take a lot of heat and that I’d be unpopular,” Hutto said, frowning. But, he added, sometimes being hard-nosed about business pays off, and evidence is mounting that the group can negotiate prices downward by staying tough. This effor t, he said, remains “a work in progress.” Louisville Originals has not yet chosen a “mainline supplier” for basic supplies, and it leaves members free to purchase up to 30 percent of their produce from small farmers and outside sources.

The group’s first year, in Hutto’s opinion and that of most local observers, has been an unalloyed success. Louisville Originals has established a strong brand identification and support among local “foodies,” and while hard statistics are hard to come by, it’s worth noting that in a highly volatile industr y, only two of the restaurants on the group’s original letterhead (Fusion and Manoosh’s) are no longer in business.

Perhaps the most obvious measure of success, though, has been acceptance by the community that Louisville Originals serves.The 20 founders quickly expanded to 38 eateries listed on the organization’s first official letterhead; within Louisville Originals’ first year it has grown to 52.

To keep things under control, the group limits membership to true independent, local restaurants with local owners that have been in business for at least one year. Emerging mini-chains are eligible only if they have no more than five proper ties. Membership was initially limited to Jefferson County, but was eventually persuaded to open the door to Oldham just wide enough to admit Westpor t General Store and Irish Rover Too. New members are subject to nomination and approval by the membership.

And, Hutto said, it’s reached the point where Louisville Originals no longer goes out and solicits new members. “We don’t approach them,” he said. “We prefer to have them approach us.”

There’s no dearth of applicants. This Louisville Original idea has clearly taken root.

Ever y Louisville Original is, well, original. We’ve selected four of the organization’s member owners and chefs for profiles in this edition.

LOUISVILLE ORIGINALS MEMBERS

Artemisia Asiatique August Moon Avalon Baxter Station Bar & Grill Bistro 301 (formally Deke’s) Bristol Highlands Bristol East Bristol Downtown Browning’s Restaurant & Brewery Café Lou Lou Café Metro Club Grotto American Bistro Coach Lamp Restaurant & Pub Come Back Inn Corner Café Cumberland Brews De la Torre’s Derby Café Diamante Bar and Grille El Mundo Equus Ferd Grisanti Havana Rumba The Irish Rover Irish Rover,Too Jack Fry’s Jack’s Jarfi’s Bistro Kaelin’s Restaurant L & N Wine Bar & Bistro La Bodega Lilly’s Limestone Restaurant The Mayan Gypsy Melillo’s Napa River Grill North End Café Palermo Viejo Park Place on Main The Patron Porcini Ray Parrella’s Italian Restaurant Saffron’s Tony Boombozz Highlands Tony Boombozz St. Matthews Uptown Café Vincenzo’s Volare Restaurant Westport General Store Winston’s Restaurant Yaching’s East-West Cuisine www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 39

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Pan-seared ahi tuna served over rice pilaf with a tangy mango relish from Baxter Station’s Executive Chef Mark Albert.

40 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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baxter station

ANDREW HUTTO

“

I got rambling on my mind.” The great blues singer Rober t Johnson’s tune could serve as credo for Andrew Hutto, owner of Baxter Station and co-founder of the Louisville Originals. “I love traveling,” said Hutto, 45, who has traveled across the continental United States and around Europe several times. “It is one of my favorite things to do.”

Hutton, who actually had to postpone this interview to fit in a trip to New Orleans, says his wanderlust started early, just after he graduated from high school in Louisville, and it eventually led him into his food-service career.

“My brother and I took three months to travel around the country,” Hutto recalled. “He was an employee of T.G.I. Friday’s and they had this thing called a Friday’s Passport. A Friday’s employee could show up at a restaurant anywhere in the country and pick up some shifts.You could go to Denver and work two days and then ski two days. Once we got to California, I got onto Friday’s out there.”

Hutto worked at Friday’s from 1982 to 1986 at restaurants in California and back home in Louisville. Well, he worked, mostly— he did take a break in 1985 for a four-month tour of Europe.

He says he learned a lot of lessons about the restaurant business at Friday’s: “What you learn at a chain is quality and consistency. Friday’s wants customers to have the same experience in Louisville as they would have in St. Louis.”

He eventually moved on from Friday’s to KT’s, the Marriott, Lilly’s, Uptown Café and Café Metro. “I worked at Lilly’s, managing the front of the house, during the day, and I would go to the Uptown at night,” he said. “I was working two or three jobs at a time—so I could save money to travel.” Sure enough, in 1989 and 1990 he broke away for a 10-month trip to Australia and New Zealand.

After he returned from Down Under, Hutto returned to the restaurant business at Louisville’s Bauer’s.When that historic spot closed, he took the opportunity to open his own place, Baxter Station, 1201 Payne Street.

“I got this business from two guys who thought it would be fun to remodel a bar and have a place for their friends to hang out,” he recalled. “But your friends are not going to come every day. Originally, they approached me for advice on how to operate and make a profit. But they told me that they

would really just like to sell it. I didn’t have the money to buy it at the time, but I worked out a plan to lease the place from them for two years. I then financed $25,000 to get me through the first year.”

Hutto learned quickly that there was a major difference between managing a restaurant and being the owner.“There was a learning curve every day. You have to learn something every day. If you don’t, you won’t be in this business long. I remember when I first took over the restaurant.The bartender said she had to go over a list of people who were barred. I couldn’t believe there were people who were barred out of a restaurant. I thought, ‘What have I gotten myself into?’”

Luckily for him, Baxter Station thrived, and Hutto attributes that success to Louisville’s status as a major restaurant town.

“Louisvillians use dining as entertainment,” he said. “In other cities, they might go to a ball game or a concert. Louisvillians go out to restaurants.”

Ironically for someone who started out at a corporate chain, Hutto has made it his mission to encourage patrons to frequent independent local businesses. He and Michael Reidy, owner of the Irish Rover, formed Louisville Originals last year after having a discussion about how hard it was for independent restaurants to compete with chains. “Seventy-two percent of every dollar spent at a local business stays in the community,” Hutto said. “Forty-three percent of every dollar spent at a chain stays in the community.” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 41

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bristol

DOUG GOSSMANN

I

f any restaurant owner can truly be called a Louisville Original it is Doug Gossmann. He cofounded the Bristol Bar & Grille at a time when the number of locally owned, independent restaurants in Louisville could be counted on your fingers and toes. Gossmann said he owes his success to a bad deal he made in 1971, soon after he graduated from Washington and Lee University.

“I planned to go to law school, but I decided to take a year off to make money and travel some,” he recalled. “I ended up taking a job as a bartender at the Normandy Inn, which was across the street from the original location of Actor’s Theatre. A man named Paul O’Brien owned it. After about six months of working as a bartender, Paul asked me if I wanted to manage the restaurant. He offered me $180 a week, all of the food I could eat and all of the wine I could drink.”

What Gossmann didn’t know was being a restaurant manager would require 80-hour workweeks, especially after O’Brien opened a second establishment, the Hearthstone Tavern, and asked Gossmann to mange it, too.

“Although the economy was different then, I was probably making less than my busboys,” Gossmann said. “But it was a chance to learn the business. I thought, ‘What the heck.’ ” Gossmann, 56, has always been something of an entrepreneur. As a child, he got his mother to lie about his age so he could take a paper route. “Eventually, I had several paper routes. I had a lot of money when I was a kid. When my sister wanted to move to New York City, I loaned her $3,500.”

In 1975, Gossmann decided he knew enough about the service industry to strike out on his own. He started The Great Midwesterner, a nightclub on Washington Street. Then, one day, his friend Tim Martin approached him about opening a bar on Bardstown Road.

“Tim had found a property that he wanted me to look at,” Gossmann said.“I happened to live right behind it on Cherokee. It used to be a place called The Blue Cottage, and it was going to seed. I told Tim, ‘I don’t think Bardstown Road needs another bar, but if you want to open a restaurant, I’m with you.’ ” Gossmann then recruited Bim Dietrich, also a former Hearthstone employee who would also carve a long swath through the local restaurant scene, to help him and Martin with the new restaurant. The Bristol Bar & Grille opened in 1977. The group also participated in other ventures, including the Savoy, a downtown nightclub and restaurant, and Langtry’s Roadhouse, a restaurant on Shelbyville Road.

42 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

The Savoy was sold in 1978. In 1983, the partners decided to sell Langtry’s so they could take advantage of another business opportunity: “We were given the rights to operate a restaurant in the Kentucky Center for the Arts,” Gossmann recalled. “In order to get that financed, I pretty much had to sell Langtry’s. We had a mortgage on it and it was a big number. At the same time, we also had to bulldoze the original Bristol because the building was water-damaged. There was a furniture store next door that was going out of business and we bought that building. That is where the Bardstown Road location is now. For one day, we operated both restaurants simultaneously.Then we bulldozed the old Bristol to create our patio.”

Deitrich went on to start his own restaurants, and later Gossmann bought out Martin. He operated the Bristol locations

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Bristol Chef Ramon Forcelledo’s Fidoua de Gambas: shrimp, onions and yellow, green and red peppers over linguine in a saffron sauce.

by himself until the early 1990s, when he offered several longtime employees an interest in the business.

“The reason that the Bristol has been so successful is the people that I work with, my employees and my partners,” Gossmann said.“I’ve made a number of my employees partners in the organization because of that. When we open a new restaurant, we hire a lot of people, but we tend to promote from within.”

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Gossmann said Louisville has a rich restaurant culture, and he joined Louisville Originals because he wants to help preserve that. Being part of Louisville Originals allows the members to pool their resources and enjoy greater buying power, he said.

“When I was younger, Cincinnati had such better restaurants than Louisville.That has changed. It wasn’t Max and Erma’s and Applebee’s that built that restaurant culture. I’m not about to say don’t let chains into the city, but Louisvillians should realize that independent restaurants need their support.” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 43

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napa river grill

J.D. ROTHBERG J

.D. Rothberg likes nothing more than to linger around the dinner table sharing good conversation and a glass of wine.

This habit comes in handy in his position as proprietor of Louisville’s Napa River Grill.

“Generally, you are around happy people having fun,” Rothberg said.“That is what gets me up in the morning. I can’t see myself ever getting up and going into an office. I have regular customers that I know by name. I know who their kids are. I know their tastes.”

Rothberg, 45, got his start in the service industry at the early age of 15, when he became a busser at Le Peep, a breakfast establishment in his native Denver. Each weekend, he worked a 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. shift. The hours were hard on a teenager, but Rothberg said the compensation was worth it.

44 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

“The money was good,” he remembered. “I would walk out with 50 to 75 dollars every day.That’s real good for a teenager.”

The job also gave Rothberg a taste for the business. He grew into a restaurateur for hire, traveling around the country to manage restaurants. He finally settled down in 1993 when he moved to Louisville to become director of operations for the Grisanti restaurants.

“Before we got to Louisville, we moved 10 times in 11 years,” Rothberg said. “Some of those were from city to city and some were restaurant to restaurant. But when we got to Louisville, it immediately felt like home.”

It was a home with a lot of responsibility. At Grisanti’s, Rothberg managed 12 restaurants with about $20 million in sales.

In 1997, he realized a longtime dream with the opening of the Napa River Grill, a restaurant that pays homage to upscale eateries in the Northern California wine country. Napa River Grill occupies the renovated building that had housed Mamma Grisanti’s, one of the restaurants that Rothberg had managed; he opened his own restaurant there with help from the owners of Grisanti’s and investor Simon Fields.

Having an ownership stake in a restaurant gave him a different perspective on the business: “Be careful what you wish for, you might get it,” he quipped. “I’ve always been passionate about the places I have worked. But when you become an owner, the bookkeeping becomes more important. When I worked for a restaurant, I didn’t worry about the payroll being met. Now, I have 60 employees that depend on me. That’s something I take very seriously.”

Rothberg has seen change in his own life recently, too. He recently remarried, and said he enjoys spending more time at home with his wife Kelly and his three daughters from his first marriage.

Kelly is coach of the University of Louisville Women’s golf team, and they met when she approached Rothberg about sponsoring a team event. “I’m an avid golfer,” he said, adding, “I especially wanted to do something with women because I have three daughters. It worked out in a number of ways for me I must say, my golf game has improved tremendously since I’ve known Kelly.”

“You have to enjoy yourself each day,” he said.“I’ve learned to live everyday to the fullest. My priorities have changed with age. It used to be money was everything. That’s why I moved so much.

Time is important to me now.Time with my family.Time to enjoy what I’ve built over the last 25 years.”

Rothberg strongly supports the concept of Louisville Originals, believing that Louisville has to preserve its local flavor if it wants to continue to improve.

“There are a lot of Louisville Originals in different fields,” Rothberg said. “I hope that Louisvillians stop and realize that they need to support all of them. I think our organization is important to the independent restaurants. We have banded together to support the scene.

“I love it here,” he said. “It is a growing city, a much better city than it was in 1993.There is a passion for great food in this city. It has grown up in the last five years. Before that, there weren’t a lot of chain restaurants around.That growth was driven by the success of the independent restaurants.”

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Chef David Malthaner of Napa River Grill presents blackened scallops with a beurre blanc sauce and confetti shrimp with saffron-infused jasmine rice, served with spicy Asian vegetables.

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bistro 301

MATT MERSHON

N

early three years after purchasing Deke’s Marketplace Grill, Matt Mershon finally feels like he owns the restaurant. All it took was a menu change, a few aesthetic renovations and a new chef—and soon, Mershon said, a name change to Bistro 301 will complete the transformation. “ I wanted to make the changes slowly, to bring my customers along with it,” he said. “You can’t just go from being a sports bar to a white-tablecloth eatery. The first thing we did was to get rid of the dried herbs and to start using fresh ones. We increased the draft-beer selection from four to 12.We increased the wine list from 20 wines to 50 wines. It has been a slow tug at progress.”

Mershon envisions Bistro 301 as a restaurant that blends the casual atmosphere of a Bristol Bar & Grille with the more adventurous menu of a Jack Fry’s.

But he sees it as evolution—with an intelligent design. Mershon kept a few of Deke’s old favorites on the menu while

adding such new options as coffee-rubbed filet, lamb shanks and beef short ribs.

“These are not quick turnaround items,” he explained. “They take a bit of love and attention. We are trying to focus our menu the same way the Bristol does.

With the green chile wontons, the Bristol hit it out of the park at the beginning.

People still love them. They identify the wontons with the restaurant and come back for them. Consistency is so important in this business.”

It’s no surprise that Mershon is fond of the Bristol:That’s where he first fell in love with the restaurant business. He went to work as a server at the Bristol on Bardstown Road in 1977 to earn extra money while he attended the University of Louisville. His passion for the restaurant soon outpaced his interest in his studies.

“I’m like a lot of restaurant workers,” he said.“I have many credits, but no degree.

This business sort of gets in your blood. I spent nine years at the Bristol, about six of them as the assistant manager. After that, I worked at a few other places until I ended up at Jack Fry’s. I was there for seven years.”

Mershon later quit Jack Fry’s and the restaurant trade to take a job selling packaging. After five years of that, he couldn’t wait to get back into a dining

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room. “I found out through a difficult process that sales wasn’t for me,” he said.

“It gave me some perspective.”

In 2001, Deke’s founders, John “Deke” DeCamillis and Brad Armacost, offered Mershon a managing partnership. After conferring with his wife Molly, Mershon accepted. Two years later, he and Molly bought out their partners.

“I told them from the beginning that I was interested in the more upscale thing,” Mershon said. “For a while, I was trying to be cautious in taking the restaurant where I wanted it to go. But, ultimately, it came down to what I was interested in and what I was passionate about.”

One key physical change Mershon has made at the restaurant was to build a dividing wall between the kitchen and the dining room. The two areas had been separated by only a glass partition.

Mershon said the change, along with removing sports memorabilia in favor of Molly’s photography, gives the dining room a more intimate feel.

Mershon said his own mindset held him back from making immediate changes, as it took a while for him to appreciate the difference between being a managing partner and being the owner. “It is a big transition being in the hot seat,” he said.

“I’ve learned to appreciate [Bristol owner] Doug Gossmann and [Jack Fry’s owner] Susan Seiller more.”

Being able to work with his two former mentors was one of the things that attracted Mershon to Louisville Originals.

The other was the marketing potential of the coalition of independent restaurants.

“The idea for us to come together was a great one,” he said. “We already come together for the Taste of Louisville.

We come together to support public radio.When they hold their telethons, they are always serving food from one of our members. So, why not get together to share our strengths and improve our businesses?

“The help in marketing alone was worth it for me. I hate to say that it is something I don’t know much about. It was always something on my plate that I never got around to.” F&D RIGHT: Chefs James Lucas and Mike Williams at Bistro 301 (formerly Deke’s) collaborate on a dish of pan-seared tuna with a soy-citrus glaze and infused oils, served with basmati rice and vegetables. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 47

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recipes top chef recipes

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

The Bold & the Beautiful bold flavors kick up interest on the dinner table If you want to add a little spice to your life, there’s no better place to begin than at the dinner table.

A generation ago, our grandparents—most of them, anyway— considered anything more flavorful than salt and possibly a dash of black pepper as being practically dangerous, and “spicy” was a vaguely risqué term to describe the scantily clad girls at the burley-cue.

But America’s taste buds are waking up, and we’re no longer so worried about these exciting and exotic flavors that titillate our taste buds and put a little spring in our step.

“With the introduction of more ethnic flavors, spices have become an integral part of the culture,” said Chef John Castro, executive chef of Winston’s at Sullivan University. “I have a few bland things on the menu, but for the most part they are fairly highly spiced. People coming to me don’t get bland food,” he added, likening the chef ’s art to painting: “I paint with tempera paint and oils, not water colors.”

Castro’s warmly spicy “Med-Asian” Sea Bass is his Top Chef contribution for this issue. The dish was so popular a choice at

Winston’s, he said with a laugh, that he eventually took it off for a while just so he could cook other things.“I’m not sure why people liked it so much,” he said. “It’s a brilliant flavor, a really great way to season fish more than people usually do. There’s a fair amount of spice—it would come out to the table and people would think it was beef or pork because the spices made it so dark. Some people don’t like a big piece of white fish on their plate; this got ’em past it.”

Castro pairs the bass with a silken cardamom-scented ice cream that blissfully demonstrates how spices can cool the palate as easily as they singe with tasty fire.

Sullivan Chef-Instructor Danielle M. DeMare, our other Top Chef guest for this issue, offers two dishes that present different but equally seductive takes on spice.

Her variation on mussels à la nage, a classic French dish, adds an Asian accent by blending aromatic coriander and the sharp, lemony tang of fresh ginger. “I enjoy its fusion flavors,” she said, “and a little bit of a kick is good when it’s warm outside.” A

Chef Castro’s Cardamom Ice Cream

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Chef DeMare’s Mussels à la Nage with Coriander and Ginger

Chef Castro’s Med-Asian Sea Bass

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red-meat dish, spiced bison carpaccio, blends the earthy character of cumin with an offbeat touch, roasted coffee beans used as a spice to add a deep, elusive flavor. A light, sharp lemon vinaigrette on a side salad makes a splendid foil to these bold dishes.

“People are more curious nowadays, they want something different,” she said.

“They’re traveling more, seeing more, and we’re around more ethnic backgrounds in Louisville with immigration. People are more curious, they want to know more and try more.”

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50 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Chef John Castro

Med-Asian Sea Bass SERVES 4 For the spice rub: 2 tablespoons fennel seeds 2 tablespoons curry powder (see note) 2 tablespoons ground allspice 1 tablespoon sea salt 1. Toast the fennel seeds in a small skillet over medium-high heat until they’re dry and aromatic, but don’t let them blacken.

Grind the toasted seeds, using a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder that you use only for spices.

2. Mix the fennel with the allspice, sea salt and curry powder (Castro strongly recommends D&D brand, widely available in Asian markets, a yellow curry containing bay leaves, specifically designed for fish).

For the sauce: 1 tablespoon cumin seed 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger 2 fresh jalapeño pepper slices including seeds 2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons curry powder 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon mustard seed 1 yellow onion 2 cloves garlic

1 zucchini /4 cup vegetable oil 1 14-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk Salt 1

1. Toast the cumin seed, using the same procedure as for fennel seed in the spice rub. Grate the ginger. Grind together the cumin, jalapeño, salt, curry and mustard seed.

2. Peel and chop the onion; peel and mince the garlic. Dice the zucchini. Heat the oil in a saucepan over high heat until it almost smokes; add the onion and garlic and stir until golden brown. Reduce heat to medium, add the zucchini, and cook until it softens. Add the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, add salt to taste.

Simmer for 12 minutes, then puree with a stick or free-standing blender.

Assembly: 4 8-ounce pieces of sea bass, striped bass or black bass 2 egg whites The spice rub 4 tablespoons butter The sauce 1 /4 cup cashews Fresh cilantro 1. Coat each piece of fish with egg white, then sprinkle the fish with the spice rub, patting it on so it sticks all over.

2. Melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and cook until the butter starts to turn brown and aromatic.

Put in the spiced fish, sear on both sides, and place the pan in a 400-degree oven for 12 to 15 minutes.

3. Plate each portion of fish with the finished sauce, and garnish with chopped cashews and cilantro.

Cardamom Ice Cream 2 cups heavy cream 1 cup milk 11/2 teaspoons ground cardamom 6 large egg yolks 1 /3 cup castor or superfine sugar 11/2 tablespoons real vanilla extract 1. Put cream and milk in a saucepan with the cardamom and steep for 45 minutes.

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2. Bring the cream mixture to just under a boil over medium heat. Slowly whisk the hot cream into the eggs and sugar, then add vanilla.

3. Chill, then put the mix into the ice-cream machine and churn until frozen.

Chef Danielle M. DeMare, CSC

Mussels à la Nage with Coriander and Ginger SERVES 2 2 dozen fresh mussels 1-inch length fresh ginger 2 garlic cloves 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 teaspoons coriander seed 2 teaspoons Korean chili flake (found in international markets, or use dried red-pepper flakes) 1 /2 cup white wine 1 /4 cup fish stock (may substitute chicken stock or water) 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt Black pepper 2 tablespoons butter 1. Rinse and scrub the mussels and pull off the stringy “beards.” Peel and mince the ginger and garlic. Crush the coriander seeds.

2. Sauté the ginger and garlic in the olive oil until they turn a very light brown. Add the coriander, chili flakes and white wine, and boil rapidly until the liquid is reduced to half its original volume.

3. Add the fish stock and the lemon juice.

Put in the mussels, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cover the skillet.

Cook until all the mussels open their shells, approximately four to seven minutes. (Discard any mussels that don’t open.) Remove the cooked mussels to a bowl; increase heat and reduce the liquid in the pan by half. Swirl in the butter until it melts and pour the liquid over the mussels.

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Spiced Bison Carpaccio, served with Red Leaf Lettuce Salad Cumin is the seed of a small plant of the parsley family that’s widely used in North Africa and the Middle East, Asia and Mexico. The small seeds look (but do not taste) like caraway seeds.

Cumin has a powerful earthy flavor.

SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER, 2 AS A MAIN DISH 8 ounces center-cut bison tenderloin Salt Black pepper 2 tablespoons cumin seed 1 tablespoon coffee beans 3 or 4 allspice berries 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1. Season tenderloin with salt and pepper and set aside in the refrigerator.

2. Toast the cumin and allspice by heating them in a small skillet until they’re aromatic, taking care that they don’t burn.

Grind the toasted spices and coffee beans to a medium to fine grind, using a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder, preferably one that you’ve dedicated to spices.

Chef Danielle M. DeMare’s Spiced Bison Carpaccio

3. Rub the tenderloin with just enough of the spice and coffee mixture to coat it; wrap it with plastic wrap, and put it back in the refrigerator for one hour. Sear the tenderloin in a hot skillet until brown on all sides, then put it in the refrigerator until it’s completely chilled. Slice thin and serve with the following salad; garnish with caperberries and preserved lemons if available.

For the salad: 1 small shallot 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves (or other fresh herb of your choice) 11/2 cups of mixed field lettuces (mesclun) 1 tablespoon olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Salt Black pepper 1. Slice shallot thin. Toss shallots and oregano with the lettuce, then dress with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Prepare just before service. F&D

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX

dining guide CUISINE STYLES

9:15 PM

ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

RESTAURANT

PAGE #

AFRICAN 73 ASIAN/CHINESE 73 ASIAN/FILIPINO 75 ASIAN/JAPANESE 75 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 76 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 76 BAR & GRILL 72 BARBECUE 71 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 59 CAFÉS 6 0 CAFETERIAS 67 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 63 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 67 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 76 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 76 EUROPEAN/IRISH 77 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 77 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 56 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 66 INDIAN 78 MEXICAN 79 MICROBREWERIES 73 MIDDLE EASTERN 78 PIZZA 68 SANDWICH/DELI 69 SEAFOOD 61 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 80 STEAKHOUSE 62 UPSCALE CASUAL 57 52 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 2 Hahn’s Mongolian Grill 211 Clover Lane 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Al Watan Alameda Alley Cat Café Alley Cats Amazing Grace Deli Ameche Angelina’s Café Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Ann’s by the River Annie Café Annie’s Pizza Another Place Anytimes Applebee’s Appleby’s Café Arni’s Pizza Aroma Café Artemisia Asian Buffet Asiatique Atomic Saucer Atrium Café August Moon Austin’s Avalon Aver’s Gourmet Pizza Azalea Babby’s Steakhouse Backyard Burger Bahama Breeze Bake’s Barbeque The Bakery Bamboo House Bank Shot Billiards Barbara Lee’s Kitchen Baxter Station Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Café Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Behar Café Bendoya Sushi Bar Bentley’s Big Dave’s Outpost Big Hopp’s Big Mama’s Soul Kitchen Bistro 301 Blimpie’s Subs BLU Mediterranean Grille Blue Dog Bakery Blue Mule Sports Café Bluegrass Brewing Co. Bluegrass Café Bonefish Grill Bootleg Barbecue Co. Bourbon Bros. BBQ Bourbons Bistro Brandon’s Bar-B-Que Bravo!

Breadworks Brendans Bristol Bar & Grille Brownie’s Grille & Bar Browning’s Brewery Buca Di Beppo Buck’s Buckhead Mountain Grill Buffalo Crossing Buffalo Wild Wings Bulldog Café The Butterfly Garden Café C.A.P.P.P.’s Deli Café 360 The Café at the Antique Mall

MAP #

73 Asian/Chinese 2 73 Asian/Chinese 6 56 Fine Dining 3 56 Fine Dining 1 63 Casual Dining 14, 16 73 Asian/Chinese 1 78 Middle Eastern 4 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 2 60 Cafés 9 77 European/Italian 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 77 European/Italian 1 77 European/Italian 5 68 Pizza 13 68 Pizza 4 67 Cafeterias 16 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 68 Pizza 1, 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 63 Casual Dining 7 63 Casual Dining [9] 60 Cafés 16 68 Pizza 14 60 Cafés 14 57 Upscale Casual 1 73 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 57 Upscale Casual 2 81 Coffee House 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 5 73 Asian/Chinese 2 57 Upscale Casual 7 57 Upscale Casual 2 68 Pizza 6 57 Upscale Casual 7 62 Steakhouse 16 69 Sandwich/Deli 6 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 71 Barbecue 13 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 73 Asian/Chinese 12 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Home Style/Southern 2 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 79 Mexican 3 81 Coffee House 14 68 Pizza [12] 72 Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 76 European/Bosnian 12 75 Asian/Japanese 1 63 Casual Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 2 63 Casual Dining 1 66 Home Style/Southern 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 57 Upscale Casual 1 60 Cafés 2 72 Bar & Grill 6 73 Microbreweries 1, 3 60 Cafés 4 61 Seafood 5 71 Barbecue 11, 12 71 Barbecue 2, 16 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 71 Barbecue 8 57 Upscale Casual 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 77 European/Irish 3 57 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10 72 Bar & Grill 5 73 Microbreweries 1 77 European/Italian 6 56 Fine Dining 1 63 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12, 16 67 Entertainment Dining 6 72 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 60 Cafés 12 60 Cafés 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 78 Middle Eastern 2 60 Cafés 1

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Café Emilie 57 Café Fraiche 60 Café J 60 Café Kilimanjaro 70 Café Lou Lou 59 Café Magnolia 64 Café Metro 56 Café Mimosa 76 Caffe Classico 81 Cajun Kitchen 79 California Pizza Kitchen 64 Camille’s Sidewalk Café 60 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 79 Captain’s Quarters 64 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 64 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 61 Carolyn’s 66 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 77 Champions Grill 64 Champion’s Sports Rest. 72 Check’s Café 66 Cheddar Box Café 60 Cheddar’s Casual Café 64 Cheesecake Factory 57 Chez Seneba African 73 Chicago Gyro 69 Chick Inn 64 The Chicken House 66 Chicken King 66 Chili’s 64 China 1 73 China Buffet 73 China Garden 73 China Inn 73 China King 73 China Sea Buffet 73 Chinatown 73 Chinese Chef 73 Chinese Express 73 Chinese Restaurant 73 Chong Garden 73 Chopsticks 73 Chopsticks House 73 Chung King 73 Ciano’s 69 Cici’s 68 City Café 60 City Wok 73 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 71 Clarksville Seafood 61 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Cleon’s Rib Shack 71 Clifton’s Pizza 68 Close-Knit Café 81 Club Grotto 57 Coach Lamp 57 Coco’s Bakery 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Colonnade Cafeteria 67 Come Back Inn 77 Corner Café 57 Cottage Café 66 Cottage Inn 66 Coys’ 64 Cravings a la Carte 67 Crawdaddy’s Café 79 Cribstone Pub 72 Crystal Chinese 73 Cumberland Brews 73 Cunningham’s 64 Cutting Board Café 60 Cyclers Café 60 Danielle’s 57 Danish Express 69 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 78 Del Frisco’s 62 Delta Restaurant 72 Derby Café 60 Derby City Café by Dalal 60 Derby Dinner Playhouse 67 Desserts By Helen 81 Diamante 57 Diamond Pub & Billiards 72 Diefenbach Café 60 Dillon’s Steakhouse 62 Dinner Is Done 66 Dino’s Down to Lunch 69 Ditto’s Grill 59

MAP #

Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Cajun/Creole 12 Casual Dining 5 Cafés 6 Mexican 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6, 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 3, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Barbecue 1 Pizza 2 Coffee House 3 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Coffee House 9, 14 Coffee House 1 Cafeterias 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 12 Cafeterias 1 Cajun/Creole 16 Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 7 Cafés 8 Cafés 2 Upscale/Casual 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Cafés 4 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bar & Grill 3 Cafés 15 Steakhouse 6 Home Style/Southern 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2

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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Djuli Dmitri’s Deli D’Nalley’s Restaurant Domino’s Pizza Don Pablos Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon 8 Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon Buffet Double Dragon II Dragon Garden Duke’s Grille & Bar Dutch’s Tavern Dynasty Buffet Eastern House Eggroll Machine El Caporal El Mundo El Nopal El Nopalito El Rey Mexican El Rodeo Mexican El Tarasco El Toro Resaurante Mexicano Emperor of China Empress of China The English Grill Equus Erika’s German Rest.

Ermin’s Bakery & Café Ernesto’s Euro Market Eva Mae’s Expressions of You Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que Fast Break Pizza Fat Jimmy’s Fat Tony’s Pizza Federal Hill Feed Bag Deli Ferd Grisanti Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Fifth Quarter Finley’s BBQ Fire Fresh Bar B Q First Wok The Fish House The Fishery The Fishery Station Flabby’s Schnitzelburg The Flagship Flanigans Ale House Fork in the Road Fountain Room Four King’s Café Fox & Hound Frank’s Steak House Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli Fratello’s Pizza Frolio’s Pizza Frontier Diner Fuji Steakhouse Garden Room Café Gasthaus Gavi’s Restaurant Geli Cakes Genny’s Diner Germantown Café Gerstle’s Place Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Palace Golden Wall Goose Creek Diner Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grapevine Pantry Great American Grill Great Wall Great Wok Groove Café Gumbo A Go-Go Habaneros Hall’s Cafeteria Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harper’s Restaurant Havana Rumba Hazelwood Restaurant

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MAP #

69 Sandwich/Deli 1 76 European/Bosnian 12 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Home Style/Southern 1 68 Pizza [20] 79 Mexican 15 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 73 Asian/Chinese 2,3 74 Asian/Chinese 1 74 Asian/Chinese 6 74 Asian/Chinese 5 74 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 74 Asian/Chinese 2 64 Bar & Grill 7 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 13 74 Asian/Chinese 2 79 Mexican 4,6,12,15 79 Mexican 2 79 Mexican 6, 8, 12 79 Mexican 2, 4, 11 79 Mexican 4 79 Mexican 13 79 Mexican 3, 5, 12 79 Mexican 6 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 4 56 Fine Dining 1 56 Fine Dining 3 76 European/German 6 60 Cafés 1, 10, 14 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12, 16 70 Sandwich/Deli 8 64 Casual Dining 16 81 Coffee House 7 71 Barbecue 6, 15 68 Pizza 8 68 Pizza 2, 5 68 Pizza 6 60 Cafés 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 77 European/Italian 6 80 Mexican 8 62 Steakhouse 12 71 Barbecue 1 71 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 74 Asian/Chinese 13 61 Seafood 2 61 Seafood 3 61 Seafood 11 72 Bar & Grill 1 56 Fine Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 2 66 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Casual Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 4 72 Bar & Grill 3 62 Steakhouse 16 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 68 Pizza 16 68 Pizza 12 66 Home Style/Southern 13 75 Asian/Japanese 8 60 Cafés 1 76 European/German 7 64 Casual Dining 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 2 60 Cafés 1 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 74 Asian/Chinese 13 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 8 72 Bar & Grill 1 78 Middle Eastern 2 61 Cafés 9 72 Bar & Grill 12 74 Asian/Chinese 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 61 Cafés 15 79 Cajun/Creole 2 80 Mexican 15 67 Cafeterias 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 5 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 66 Home Style/Southern 13 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 53

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70 Heady’z Heavenly Ham 70 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Hitching Post Inn 72 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Hometown Buffet 66 Hometown Pizza 68 Honeybaked Café 70 Hong Kong Chinese 74 Hong Kong Fast Food 74 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Hooters 64 Hot Dog Heaven 70 Howl at the Moon 67 Ichiban Samurai 75 Indi’s Restaurant 66 India Palace 78 Intermezzo American Café 57 The Irish Rover 77 Iroquois Pizza 68 Islamorada Fish Co. 61 J. Alexander’s 57 J. Graham’s Café 61 J. Harrods 58 Jack Fry’s 58 Jack’s Lounge 59 Jade Palace 74 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 72 Jalapeño’s 80 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Jarfi’s Bistro 58 Jasmine 74 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 67 Jazz Factory 59 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 62 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 61 Jersey Mike’s Subs 70 Jersey’s Café 72 Jessie’s Restaurant 66 Jillian’s 67 Jimbo’s BBQ 71 Jimmy’s on the River 64 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 68 Joe Huber Restaurant 67 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 61 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 79 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 64 John E’s 58 JoJo’s Fish Market 61 Jolly Rogers 64 Juanita’s Burger Boy 70 Juan’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Juke Box 64 Jumbo Buffet 74 Kaelin’s Restaurant 64 Karma Café 64 Kashmir Indian 78 Kayrouz Café 61 Kern’s Korner 64 Kim’s Asian Grille 76 King Wok 74 King Buffet 74 Kings Fast Food 66 King’s Fried Chicken 67 Kingfish 61 Kobe Japanese Steak 75 Koreana II 76 KT’s 58 Kunz’s 56 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 60 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 78 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Peche II 60 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Tapatia 80 Le Relais 56 Lee’s Korean 76 Legend’s 64 Lemongrass Café 76 Lentini’s 77 The Lighthouse 72 Lilly’s 56 Limestone 58

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RESTAURANT

Sandwich/Deli 2 Sandwich/Deli 14 Coffee House 2, 3 Desserts/Bakery 5 Coffee House 1, 2 Bar & Grill 11 Coffee House 14 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 Pizza 7, 9, 13 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 15 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 12 Bar & Grill 8, 12 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grille 5 Mexican 13 Cafeterias 4 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 9 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Home Style/Southern 13 Entertainment Dining 2 Barbecue 12 Casual Dining 16 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Casual Dining 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mexican 4 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 2 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Korean 1 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 6 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 2 Fine Dining 1 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 7 Mexican 14 Mexican 2 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 9 European/Italian 2 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Upscale Casual 5

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PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Ling Ling 74 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Little Chef 70 Liu’s Garden 74 Logan’s Roadhouse 63 Logos Coffee House 81 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 80 Lone Star Steakhouse 63 Longhorn Steakhouse 63 Longino’s 67 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 70 Los Aztecas 80 Los Indios Mexicano 80 Lotsa Pasta 70 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Lucky House Buffet 74 Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt 67 Luigi’s 77 Lunch Today 70 Lynn’s Paradise Café 64 Ma Zerellas 68 Macvitte’s 72 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 76 Maido Essential Japanese 75 Main Eatery 70 Main Menu 64 Maker’s Mark Lounge 58 Manchu Wok 74 Manhattan Grill 64 Marimba Mexican Rest 80 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Martini Italian Bistro 77 Master’s International 81 Masterson’s 64 Max & Erma’s 64 Mayan Gypsy 80 Mazzoni’s Oyster Café 62 McAlister’s Deli 70 Melillo’s 77 The Melting Pot 58 Meridian Café 61 Mexican Fiesta 80 Mexico Tipico 80 Michael Murphy’s 72 Mike Linnig’s 62 Mitchell’s Fish Market 62 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Molly Malone’s 77 The Monkey Wrench 65 Morton’s of Chicago 63 Mr. Gattis 68 Mr. Lou’s 67 Mr. Z’s Kitchen 61 My Favorite Muffin 81 My Old KY Dinner Train 67 My Place Café 61 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Napa River Grill 58 Neil’s Place 65 Nero’s 58 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 New World Buffet 74 New York Capri Pizza 68 Nios 60 Nord’s Brown Bag Deli 70 North End Café 61 O’Charley’s 65 O’Dolly’s 67 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 77 The Oakroom 56 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 65 Old Louisville Coffee House81 Old Spaghetti Factory 77 Old Stone Inn 58 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 The Olive Garden 77 Olive’s on Fourth 67 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Omar’s Gyro 78 On the Border 80 On The River Dining 65 Onion Rest.Tea House 74 Oriental Express 74 Oriental House 74 Oriental Star 75 Osaka Sushi Bar 75 Oscar’s Bar & Grill 72 Otto’s Café 65 Outback Steakhouse 63 P. Nuts Sports Bar & Grill 72 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 58

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 6, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Coffee House 2 Mexican 12 Steakhouse 5 Steakhouse 6 Home Style/Southern 13 Sandwich/Deli 3 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 Mexican 14 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 6 Asian/Chinese 4 Entertainment Dining 1 European/Italian 1 Sandwich/Deli 16 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 14, 15 Bar & Grill 14 Asian/Thai 16 Asian/Japanese 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 5 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 2 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 European/Italian 8 Coffee House 11 Casual Dining 1 Casual Dining 6, 8 Mexican 1 Seafood 4 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 11, 15 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Cafés 3 Mexican 11 Mexican 9, 13 Bar & Grill 1 Seafood 13 Seafood 8 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9 European/Irish 2 Casual Dining 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 1 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 Entertainment Dining 12 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 3 Casual Dining 14 Upscale Casual 14 Bar & Grill 8 Asian/Chinese 8 Pizza 15 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 6 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 11 European/Italian 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 2 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 Casual Dining 7 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Japanese 2 Bar & Grill 1 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 Bar & Grill 6 Upscale Casual 5

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Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Palermo Viejo 78 Panda Chinese 75 Panera Bread Co. 70 Papa Johns Pizza 68 Park Place Restaurant 56 Pat’s Steak House 63 The Patron 58 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Peking City 75 Penn Station 70 Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q 71 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 77 Petterson’s Bar-B-Q Barn 71 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Picnicaters BBQ 71 Pie in the Sky 68 Pig and a Peppermint 61 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 72 Pita Delights 78 Pizza Box 68 Pizza By The Guy 68 Pizza Hut 68 Pizza King 68 Pizza Place 69 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 63 Porcini 77 Portico 56 Prado’s Pizza 69 Primo 77 Proof On Main 56 Prospect Fish Market 62 Pub Louisville 65 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 73 Queue Café 61 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 70 Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Ramsi’s Café 60 Ranch House 65 Raw Sushi Lounge 75 Ray Parrella’s 77 Red Cheetah Lounge 58 Red Lounge 60 Red Star Tavern 58 Rich O’s Public House 73 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 58 Rockwall Bistro 58 Rocky’s Italian Grill 77 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 77 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 72 Ruby Tuesday 65 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 62 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 63 Ryan’s Steakhouse 63 Saddle Ridge Saloon 72 Saffron’s 78 Saffron’s Buffet 78 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Saint’s 72 Sakura Blue 75 Sala Thai 76 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 75 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Scotty’s Ribs 72 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Shady Lane Café 70 Shalimar Indian 78 Shane’s 65 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 78 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 65 Sichuan Garden 75 Sister Bean’s 81 Skyline Chili 65 Sluggers Deli 70 Smokey Bones BBQ 72

MAP #

Pizza 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 3, 6, 8, 15 Pizza [30] Fine Dining 1 Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Asian/Chinese 8 Sandwich/Deli [14] Barbecue 12 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Barbecue 15 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Pizza 6 Cafés 10 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 8 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Pizza 9 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Casual Dining 3, 6 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 12, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9, 12 Barbecue 9 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 7 Indian 6 Casual Dining 16 Asian/Chinese 1 European/Irish 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Coffee House 13 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 6

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Snappy Tomato 69 Pizza [7] Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 South Side Inn 67 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 2 Sportstime Pizza 69 Pizza 14 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 62 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 67 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [22] Starving Artist Café 71 Sandwich/Deli 5 Station House Grill 65 Casual Dining 7 Steak N Shake 65 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 63 Steakhouse 8 Stratto’s 78 European/Italian 15 Strawberry Patch Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 71 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 61 Cafés 2 Sweet Peas Southern 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sweet Surrender 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 79 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tequila Mexican Rest.

80 Mexican 12 Teranga African Rest.

73 African 4 Texas Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 65 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 Theater Square Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third and Main Café 61 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 61 Cafés 1 Thyme Café 61 Cafés 1 Tijuana Flats Burrito Co. 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 7, 8 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 67 Home Style/Southern 14 Tologono 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Tommy Lancaster 65 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 69 Pizza 2, 3 Tony Boombozz Pizza & Vino 69 Pizza 8 Tony Impellizeri’s Italian 69 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 72 Barbecue 5 Tran Japanese Steakhouse 76 Asian/Japanese 14 Trellis Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 1 Trestle Sports Café 72 Bar & Grill 6 Tucker’s 65 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Twice-Told Café 65 Casual Dining 7 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 2 Uno Chicago Bar & Grill 69 Pizza 11 Uptown Café 58 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 65 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 56 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 12 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 66 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 61 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Oats Market 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Willie’s Italian 78 European/Italian 13 Windy City Pizzeria 69 Pizza 1 Wings N Things 72 Bar & Grill 8 Wings To Go 69 Pizza 14 Winston’s 57 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Woodford Reserve Grille 72 Bar & Grill 12 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 58 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Zap’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 ZaZoo’s 73 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 57 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 55

GUIDE KEY

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$ = Average Entrée under $8 $$ = Average Entrée $9–$14 $$$ = Average Entrée $15–$20 $$$$ = Average Entrée $21 & up

2 11 CL OVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clo ver Ln., 896-9570. 2 11 Clo ver’s longtime manager Andy Smith no w o wns the plac e, but its upscale atmosphere and cr eative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthe ws c ontinue t o r ank it among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia A ve., 636-0783. Chef Edward L ee’s dis tinctive, eclectic tak e on cr eative international cookery places his personal signatur e on e very dish at this elegantly c omfortable Old Louisville r estaurant, which c onsistently r anks among the city’ s t op tables f or f ood, drink and service. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 42 5 W . Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-52 84. E clectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant

RED = Advertiser

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

and not o verstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tr adition that helped es tablish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’ s “r estaurant r ows” a generation ago , Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark; current Chef Michael Crouch continues to please Metro’s loyal fans. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (T he Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same do wntown landmark that our grandparents enjoyed. Chef Joe Castro continues to win raves for creative, inventive fare that makes the Brown a major pla yer in the do wntown-hotel dining sweepstakes. $$$$ p

Louisville’s Best Kept Secret.

“Equus is not only one of the city’s best, it is absolutely one of the best.”

Susan Reigler, The Courier-Journal, October 2004

Equus has been preparing American-regional cuisine with Kentucky accents for 20 years.

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN?

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings exept Indiana, use 812.

EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s mos t honored r estaurants in this simple whit e-brick building in St. Matthe ws, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid servic e and firs t-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p THE FLAGSHIP 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. $$$$ e KUNZ’S FOURTH AND MARKET 115 S. F ourth St., 585-5555. One of the oldes t r estaurants in Louisville, K unz’s original German ac cent has muted with time , and it no longer r anks among the city’ s t op tables, but it s till pr ovides oldfashioned, hearty steaks and seafood. $$$ p LE RELAIS 2 817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-902 0. Another longs tanding c ontender f or the city’ s t op table , this s tylish art dec o spot beautifully uses a his toric 19 2 0s airport building to pr esent elegant modern Fr ench cuisine fr om Chef Daniel Stage . It ’s not jus t the city’ s bes t French restaurant but a contender for best of the region. $$$$ p f e LILLY’S 1147 Bar dstown Rd., 451-044 7. Chef K athy Cary seems to spend as much time in New York City as she does in L ouisville. As a r epeat in vitee t o Manhattan’s James Bear d House , she shar es her Kentucky-accented c ooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’s combines style and Cary’s creative cookery to keep this landmark near the t op of the city’s dining list. $$$$ p e THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Chef de Cuisine T odd Richar ds has found his o wn v oice at the Seelbach, adding innovative touches while he maintains the quality that has earned this elegant hot el dining room its four-star rating. $$$$ p PARK PLA CE RES TAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 2 . W ith Anoosh Shariat as e xecutive chef and Jerry Slat er as GM, the signature r estaurant in L ouisville Slugger Field has mo ved be yond its origins as a s teakhouse to join the city’ s t op tier of upscale dining rooms. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas t o Metr o L ouisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the gr ounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 2 17 -6360. T his stylish spot in the posh new 21C Hotel at Seventh & Main is winning applause as one of the hottest new tickets of the season. Gener al Manager Cas sandra Hobbic (long of Lilly’s) and Executive Chef Michael Paley preside over a modern American bill of f are with distinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RES TAURANT 1538 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8560. Chef Anthon y Lamas has been winning national pr aise f or his cr eative c ookery, frequently appearing in national f ood media and making a r egular tr ek t o James Bear d House in NYC. Se viche, as the name implies, specializ es in the Latino seaf ood dish “ cooked” in tart citrus juices. $$$$ p f

EQUUS RESTAURANT/ JACK’S LOUNGE 1 2 2 S E A R S AV E N U E • S T. M AT T H E W S • ( 5 0 2 ) 8 9 7 - 9 7 2 1 56 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known f or its sua vely pr ofessional servic e, high-end Northern Italian f are and some tr ademark dishes prepared at tableside, Vincenzo’s owns a place as one of Louisville’s top tables. $$$$ p

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WINSTON’S RES TAURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Culinary arts students at Sullivan University staff this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Cas tro. Several of the city’s top chefs got their training here. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p Z’S O YSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittingt on Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining t o the suburbs that ’s pr eviously been hard to find outside the city . Armed with e xcellent, oversize steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine servic e and clubb y ambienc e, Z’ s thor oughly out guns the upscale steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. As the bustling arts sc ene in this eas t-of-downtown neighborhood has blos somed, Art emisia has evolved right along with it. A f avorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, Art emisia offers fare to please both v egetarians and omniv ores, plus an attractive alfr esco dining option in its enclosed courtyard. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has w on diners’ r aves and man y culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local t enure. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has w on him invitations to New York City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423- 1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with hea vy emphasis on the bar , this suburban watering hole taps the same v ein as the national franchise booze ‘n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a f air price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bar dstown R oad off ers a fr esh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a dis tinct Southern

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accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f AZALEA 3612 Br ownsboro Rd., 895-54 93. Another of the city’ s longtime f avorites, Azalea delights with cr eative American and fusion-s tyle f are whether y ou dine in or enjo y the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f BLU IT ALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 85. BL U offers upscale Italian Medit erranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlight ed b y Me xican limestone and Italian marble . F or those seeking a relaxing libation and a quick er snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p BRAVO! 2 06 Bullitt Ln. ( Oxmoor C enter), 32 6-04 91.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “ a fun, whit e-tablecloth casual eat ery … positioned betw een the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjo yed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582 - 1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 9 2 2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a s tar on L ouisville’s bis tro sc ene sinc e it helped kick off the Bar dstown R oad r estaurant renaissance some 25 years ago. Old standards like the gr een-chile w on t ons and the Bris tol Bur ger are always reliable, and the wine pr ogram is exceptional. $$ p f CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. Tucked into a c orner of a tas teful furnitur e shop , Café Emilie is w orth a visit. T his French-accented East End eat ery is a r ecent and w elcome addition t o the neighborhood’s casual dining options. $$ f CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecak e” is its name , and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich,

calorific choic es t o eat in or tak e out. It ’s mor e than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar servic e. $$ p CLUB GRO TTO 2 116 Bar dstown Rd., 459-5 2 75.

Following a series of changes in leadership at this Highlands f avorite, longtime Chef Michael Ne w is back at the helm after a few years away. With New’s international bistro dishes and Club Gr otto’s stylish and r omantically dim en virons, this sometimes overlooked spot is worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood ta vern serv es “pub grub” f or lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a serious dining r oom W ednesday thr ough Saturday evenings with well-prepared dishes from Chef Jer ome Pope that r ange fr om do wn-home favorites to pastas. $$$ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119 .

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p DANIELLE’S 2 2 06 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-7677. Chef Allan R osenberg, fr esh fr om e xperience under master New York City chefs and se veral years as Chef Shariat’s chef de cuisine at Park Place, now boasts his o wn signatur e r estaurant, f eaturing fresh American cuisine and an e xtensive allAmerican wine list. $$$ p INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584- 12 65. T he elegant r estaurant space in A ctor’s T heatre of L ouisville’s his toric building is back in busines s in this ne w incarnation, featuring casual American bis tro fare in a fully r enovated dining r oom, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. T his c omfortably upscale v enue, a

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Nashville-based chain, f eatures “ contemporary American” f are with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a Ne w York strip steak. $$$ p J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tas teful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want t o give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, ther e’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. T his popular spot is always pack ed. It sa ves jus t a whiff of the r affish aspect of its 1960s-er a predecessor, a local saloon, but upgr ades it with cr eative American f are in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JARFI’S BIS TRO 501 W . Main St., 589-5060 . T he affable Jeff Jarfi is the epon ymous hos t of this sharp, stylish venue in the K entucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pr e-theater buff ets ar e attracting happy crowds. $$$ p JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1111. T his old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

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From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home servic e t o its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2 300 L exington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s har d t o argue with suc cess, and K T’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant busines s, k eep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple formula with considerable suc cess at Limes tone, tr ansporting the concept that br ought them int ernational culinary kudos at the Seelbach’s Oakroom with good effect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-9009 . Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, K entucky’s Mak er’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image t o this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. The draw is a magisterial bar featuring more than 60 Bourbons, along with an attr active menu f eaturing traditional Kentucky fare $$$ p f

MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

Spanning Calif ornia and the P acific Rim, this starkly modern St. Matthews venue has earned its reputation as one of the city’ s t op tables on the basis of c onsistent, top-quality fare and excellent service. Innovative wine-country cuisine prepared with skill c ombines with a w ell-chosen, f airly priced wine c ollection that sho wcases the California wine scene. $$$ p f NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portic o as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Portic o’s all- American s teak-andseafood theme with a br oader int ernational menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD S TONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. This historic stone building east of L ouisville in Simpson ville, housed a popular restaurant f or mor e than a gener ation. It is no w under the management of P aul Crump, formerly of Porcini. Crump’s skills and the comfortably nostalgic atmosphere make this a hot spot. $$$ p f THE P ATRON 3400 Fr ankfort A ve., 896- 1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an e vening meal, the P atron off ers some of the bes t c ooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool off ers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BIS TRO 912 0 Shelb yville Rd., 32 7-7707. T his Ariz ona-based, Chinese themed restaurant off ers a loud, happ y sc ene with Chinese-style dishes. T o its cr edit, e verything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED CHEET AH L OUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 5890695. $$ p e RED S TAR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this ne w chain oper ation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmospher e that’s upscale and clubby, with an e xtensive bar as a k ey part of the action. $$$ p f RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Sometimes things c ome full cir cle, and sometimes w e’re v ery glad. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dis sell has r eturned t o his original home, returning the name “Rick’ s” to the first r estaurant that bor e his name . L ook f or the same f amiliar c ombination of e xcellent libations and upscale American fare. $$ p f e ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old r ock-quarry location in sc enic Flo yds Knobs t o off er an atmospheric eat ery, with a creative menu that f eatures a light L ouisiana accent, and an int eresting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the trip acr oss the Ohio f or one of the area’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bar dstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except f or the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EA ST WES T CUISINE 105 S. F ourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of Eas t and W est, sufficient t o give jus t about everyone something t o enjo y, r egardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p

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ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 C orporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suit es), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the spacious heart of the hot el.

Specials run fr om their popular cr ab cak es and array of pas ta dishes t o a R euben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p BAXTER S TATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 P ayne St., 584-1635. T his c ozy spot looks a lot lik ea neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmosphere take it a not ch upscale. Take particular not e of an impr essive beer lis t t o go with your meal. $$ p f BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-833 7. Formerly Dekes, this popular do wntown spot s tarted as a downtown bar, a favorite hangout for lawyers and the Courthouse crowd; renamed after an o wnership change, it has moved upscale and broadened its appeal with fine “ contemporary American cuisine” and service to match. $$$ p f BOURBONS BIS TRO 2 2 55 Fr ankfort A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s tr aditional nectar , owns a plac e of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bis tro c ombines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what mus t be the w orld’s mos t c omprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f CAFÉ LOU LOU 1800 Frankfort Ave., 893-7776. Bright and bold and arts y, this Clift on neighborhood restaurant and pub off ers Chef Cla y W allace’s affordable edibles fr om wr aps and calz ones t o handmade pizzas among the best in town. $$ f DIAMANTE 2 2 80 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1705. Chef Mike Drisk ell, f ormerly of Club Gr otto, has upgraded the old Diamond Station bar and moved it significantly upscale with this ne w c oncept, which f eatures an eclectic bill of f are and tr endy libations in an attractive modern setting. $$ f DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-912 9 . W ith fresh and gener ous portions, I lea ve s tuffed and happy e very time I visit this s tylish y et casual Highlands f avorite. Chef /Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining sc ene— serves up fr esh and gener ous portions fr om a menu that offers an internationally eclectic bill of fare that r anges all o ver the map . Fr om K ansas City ribs and Ne w England cr ab cak es t o T hai chicken wings or Chinese burrit os. $$ p

One of Louisville’s favorite neighborhoods is home to one of Louisville’s favorite restaurants.

HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-2 2 0 2 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine t o rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll ha ve no complaints about Har d Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e HARPER’S RESTAURANT 871 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 5-2 900. Harper ’s dr aws a happ y cr owd of regulars with a lar ge bar and big menu that off ers a wide r ange of American-s tyle f are, with management that takes quality seriously. Gourmet pizzas and fine libations are a specialty. $$ p f JACK’S L OUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 89 7-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus r estaurant ne xt door, Jack’ s off ers a short but e xcellent menu f eaturing appetiz ers and light bites, along with a drinks lis t beyond reproach. $ p JAZZ F ACTORY 815 W . Mark et St. ( Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . L ouisville’s r estored Glas sworks building mak es a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue for serious, live jazz. Chef Jeff Jarfi’s eclectic and inno vative f are off ers an e xtra incentive for a jazz-filled evening. $$ p e

When you’re looking for variety that will please any kind of appetite and helpings that are always generous and unmistakably fresh, you’ll find it at Ditto’s Grill! The menu is packed with culinary creations from one of the region’s top chefs, and the atmosphere with its cozy booths and uniquely whimsical artwork says, “Relax”! We’re in Louisville’s charming and historic Highlands.

1114 Bardstown Road (502) 581-9129 Favorites include . . .

• Thai Chicken Wings with Tobacco Onions • Kansas City Ribs • New England Crab Cakes • Chinese Burritos • Blackened Beef Chop with Smashed Potatoes • Ditto’s Crème Brulee • Mud Pie Cheesecake www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 59

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L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a v ast, fairly priced wine lis t and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 100 wines a vailable b y the glas s. C omfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f LA PECHE II Holiday Manor Shopping C enter, 3397593. If y ou w ant t o enjo y much-honor ed Chef Kathy Cary’s imaginative cooking without pa ying the prices at Lilly’s, this sibling spot is the place to go. $$ f NIOS 917 Baxt er A ve. R estaurants specializing in a selection of “small plates,” a concept akin to tapas or the similar Latino bocaditos, are hot in Chicago (where the r estaurant Avec is the t emple of the genre), but the tr end has been slo w t o arriv e in Louisville. Ent er Nios, run b y Jun Eugenio , a partner in the original Jicama Grill, in the his toric building that housed Jupit er Grill and lat er @mospheres.

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funk y and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Gener ation X cr owd attracts f oodies of all ages with its friendly setting, r easonable pric es and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f RED LOUNGE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 896-6116. It’s loud.

It’s smoky. It’s slick and glitzy and fun. Red Lounge is a bar first and an eatery second, but the fare, a short list of gourmet pub grub, is very good. $ p f e SWEET PEAS SOUTHERN 2350 Frankfort Ave., 8949091. Christopher Seckman, ha ving built North End Café into a popular success, is making new waves on Frankfort with this c omfortable new spot, f eaturing traditional Southern f are with a t ouch of cr eative innovation. $ p f TOLOGONO 3702 L exington Rd., 899-2 005. In an intriguing twist on takeout food, Tologono’s firstrate chefs will mak e you a gourmet-s tyle meal to take out ( or e ven ha ve deliv ered, within a reasonable radius of its St. Matthe ws venue) and enjoy in the c omfort of home . I’v e f ound the dishes fully competitive with local bistro fare, and more than competitive in price. $$

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-6544.

This suburban Alley Cat is a c ozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is aff ordable and appealing. $ APPLEBY’S CAFÉ AND CA TERING 2 01 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3663. T his café and catering busines s off ers a v ariety of daily lunch specials plus gourmet c offees and a t empting array of desserts. $ f AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. Gr ab a bit e bef ore hitting the casino . Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-9800 . T his bak ery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Eur ope. Its c omfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tas ty dishes made t o show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 32 55 Bar dstown Rd. ( Quality Inn), 454-0451. This casual family dining spot in a motel c omplex on Bar dstown off ers tr aditional favorites that r ange from the Hot Br own to fried chicken. A menu of fr eshly made soups, salads, appetizers and desserts serves the light diner. $ p BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $ f 60 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. Tiny but tas tefully attractive, this little café is hidden at the back of a V ictorian house filled with gift shops that shar e a quaint, welcoming ambience. $ f THE CAFÉ A T THE L OUISVILLE ANTIQUE MALL 900 Goss Ave., 637-6869. One of the city’ s most attractive spots f or antique , this ca vernous old factory building off ers a similarly attr active plac e to catch lunch while you shop, offering a selection of competently made luncheon fare. $ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-89 2 9.

Cuisine from around the w orld is f eatured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dut chmans Ln. ( Jewish C ommunity Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center offers fully k osher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f CAMILLE’S SIDEWALK CAFÉ 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2005 $ f CHEDDAR BO X CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelb yville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch oft en do so her e, lur ed b y an attr active selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches .and desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. F ourth St., 6 35-02 2 2 , 505 W .

Broadway, 589- 1797, 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time s tar in the city’ s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingr edients to these simple , but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f CUTTING BOARD CAFÉ 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 4239950. T here’s a lot of pot ential in this Eas t End storefront. T he bill of f are is mos tly sandwiches, panini and wr aps, but the y’re cr eative and generally well-made. $ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it ’s both. T his informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 C entral A ve. (K entucky Derb y Museum), 634-0858. Lunch serv ed year-round in the dining ar ea adjac ent t o the Derb y Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f DERBY CITY CAFÉ B Y DALAL 3819 Bardstown Rd., 454-6160. Most of the dining cr owd comes for the cream cheese and olive sandwiches, veggie pockets and Kentucky’s own Benedictine creations. $ DIEFENBACH CAFÉ 12 8 S. Ne w Alban y St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 12 01 S. Firs t St., 6 356960, 723 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. F ourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 211 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attr act cr owds looking f or an enjo yable soup and sandwich lunch highlight ed by Frenchstyle breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GARDEN ROOM CAFÉ 911 S. Br ook St., 62 5- 1900.

Historic Male High School, no w T he Spectrum Building, houses Gumb y’s G arden R oom Café, a casual American-s tyle r estaurant oper ated b y longtime local caterer Phyllis “Gumby” Cornwell. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Gos s A ve., 6 37-9412 .

One of the man y old-f ashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e

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GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middlet own, K Y, 2 45-1569. T he Middlet own Historic Dis trict is booming with s torefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t.

The Gr apevine P antry off ers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ GROOVE CAFÉ 1882 Blackis ton Mill Rd., Clarks ville, IN, 949-3105. $ e J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hot el), 583- 12 34. T he Br own’s casual café offers an alternative to the upscale English Grill. $ p JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Mark et St., 587-872 0. A w orthy edition t o the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine c offee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe . $ f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 12 7 W iltshire Ave., 896-2 6 31. T hose who w ere saddened b y the los s of St. Matthe ws landmark J.P. Kayrouz will be delighted to learn that another K ayrouz gener ation is back in busines s, starting small in the tiny spot that once housed the original Tony Boombo zz. T hey’ve made good use of the spac e, off ering man y of the f amily’s old favorites in a stylishly renovated setting. $ f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian A ve., 897-9703. This little lunch spot oc cupies a c ozy old house in St. Matthews. Servic e is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $

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CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 W estport Rd., 894-8947. In an Eas t End neighborhood rich with seaf ood eat eries, Car olina off ers a tas ty option within w alking dis tance of do wntown St. Matthews. T his spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and c od, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an aff ordable family setting. $

THE FISHERY STATION 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363.

Family owned and f amily style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetiz ers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eas tern Blv d., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, serv ed on paper tr ays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $

JOE’S CRAB SHA CK 131 Riv er Rd., 568- 1171. T he setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line , and I’m pleased t o r eport that the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter A ve., 568-2 99 3.

Louisville is as o verflowing as a w ell-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 362 4 L exington Rd., 895- 1188. T he original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, T he Fishery remains justly popular f or its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f

ISLAMORADA FISH CO. 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300.

JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop , vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with dec or and s tyle so little changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RES TAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper Riv er R oad and Riv erside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f

MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigr ant f amily fr om Eas tern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ MY PLA CE CAFÉ 100 E. Jeff erson St. (T he Inn at Jewish) 540-3214. This casual dining space serves breakfast and lunch buffet-style at modest prices, and going just a bit more upscale for dinner, when there’s table servic e with a short bill of f are that includes sandwiches, steak and fish. $ NORTH END CAFÉ 172 2 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-8 770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shot gun house has bec ome one of the city’ s mos t popular spots, pr ompting a r ecent expansion and the addition of a full bar. The eclectic menu off ers diverse tapas and int eresting entrées, plus a bar gain-seeker’s wine lis t. It ’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $ f PIG AND A PEPPERMINT 9521 US Hwy 42, 292-1245.. $ f QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent mak es S weet ‘n’ Sa vory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ THIRD AND MAIN CAFÉ Building) 587-6171. $ f

2 2 0 W. Main St. (LG&E

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y f avorite plac es f or a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting lo yal cr owds with e xcellent f are and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e THYME CAFÉ 711 S. T hird St., 58 7-0400. This spicy eclectic café serv es up big tas te with special tuna, ham and chick en entrées and sandwiches. Fr esh basil tomato soup with the BLT on grilled sourdough is a fast-rising favorite in the neighborhood. $ WHITNEY’S DINER 5616 Bardstown Rd., 239-0919. $ f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 12 4666. T his fr anchise c oncept fr om the Floridabased Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a c omfortable setting. Add Bonefish t o y our short lis t of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 61

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- RUTH

MAZZONI’S O YSTER CAFÉ 2 804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A his tory that dat es t o 1884 mak es Mazzoni’s one of the city’ s longes t-running restaurant acts. It mo ved fr om do wntown t o the suburbs a gener ation ago , but k ept its his toric serving bar and its urban f eeling, with pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 9 37-1235. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at f amily pric es sinc e 19 2 5 and r emains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. T he dec or of this upscale , C olumbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination. $$$ p f PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . If y ou’re on the eas tern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Mark et off ers good, aff ordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. Don’t car e f or fish ? No pr oblem: Choose chick en or other entrées plus tw o sides from its s team table , run b y the f ormer proprietors of Rollo Pollo. $

Louisville 6100 Dutchman’s Lane Kaden Tower, 16th Floor (502) 479-0026 Group Private Dining Available Make Your Reservation Online at www.RuthsChris.com

RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. V isualize Hoot er’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the buck etof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f STAN’S FISH S ANDWICH 372 3 L exington Rd., 8966600. T he fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perf ectly pr epared. I’v e ne ver had a better fish sandwich an ywhere. W atch f or daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 2 88-2 411. T his independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s bes t v alues f or e xpertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and c onfigurations, but someone in the kit chen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISC O’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 89 7-7077. Onc e ranked among the city’ s t op s teakhouses, Del Frisco’s r emains s trong in its c ore c ompetency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p DILLON’S STEAKHOUSE 2101 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy, 499-7106. Dillon’ s has a dis tinctly diff erent atmosphere fr om mor e pric ey s teakhouses, with its ski-lodge atmospher e in a his toric L ouisville home. It ranks among the most affordable quality steak dinners that the city has t o offer. $$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin y our way. Some of the city’ s bes t iv ory mas ters ar e at the piano t o enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e FRANK’S S TEAK HOUSE 52 0 W . Se venth St., Jeffersonville IN, 2 83- 3383. A longtime north-ofthe-river favorite, this neighborhood s teak house is kno wn f or c omfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p JEFF RUB Y’S S TEAKHOUSE 32 5 W. Main St., 5895200. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belterra Casino, will shortly open his firs t

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Louisville pr operty, an upscale s teak house that bears his name . L ook f or fine beef t o be a dr aw, with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e

combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p

LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 89 33884, 5 2 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-05 77, 9 70 Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9 789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nash ville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p

PONDEROSA S TEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hw y., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, K Y, 2 2 2 - 12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buff et with hot and c old f oods, salads and desserts is also available. $

LONE S TAR S TEAKHOUSE & S ALOON 340 Whittington Pkwy., 339-9495. Lone Star rises abo ve the median f or fr anchised chain es tablishments on the basis of popularity and s tyle and v ery friendly service, with dec ent grub amid T exas-style surroundings and country music. $$ p f

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, C ohiba the bes t cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the bes t r estaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p

LONGHORN S TEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurs tbourne Ln., 671-5350. Or der y our sirloin on the flat-t op or pork chops on the char; also prime rib, baby back ribs and a c omplete line of chick en entrées. All dinners come with salad and potat o choice. $$ p MORTON’S 62 6 W. Main St., 584-042 1. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Mort on’s earns a solid thr ee s tars and r anks among the t op tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 65 2 0 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9 , 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Plac e, Clarks ville, IN, 2 83432 9. The name sugges ts Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond jus t s teak t o tak e in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S S TEAK HOUSE 2 437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I at e there last, I think I sa w Ozzie and Harriet. A local f avorite, its

RYAN’S FAMILY S TEAKHOUSE 7405 Preston Hw y., 964-1748, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4711 Dixie Hwy., 44 7-4781, 6 36 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8520. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers f amily dining with good v ariety: Its div erse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $ STONEY RIVER LEGEND ARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 42 9-8944. St oney Riv er in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big cr owds with its memor able s teaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0 705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pk wy., 89 7-5005, 332 2 Out er L oop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme for this popular s teak house . Salads, v egetables and br eads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (19 locations ) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex)

Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice R estaurant, billed as “Ne w Alban y’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping C enter specializes in br eakfast and lunch. T he fare is do wn-home and simple , at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES A T THE RAMAD A INN 1041 Z orn A ve., 897-5101. Serving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations ) T his cheery national chain f eatures an eclectic as sortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pas ta as w ell as full bar service. It ’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutt er, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tas tes run t o mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BENTLEY’S 12 0 W . Br oadway (Holida y Inn), 582 2 241. Enjoy a K entucky hot br own or the all- youcan-eat prime rib buff et on Saturday nights. Each day features a pasta dish, a hearty soup and salad bar, as well as favorites from the cutting board and grill. $$ p e BIG HOPP ’S 800 W. Market St., 589-6600 . A wide variety of family-style fare, from fettuccine alfredo to fried chick en, is dished up with friendly , welcoming servic e at this popular local spot, in the busy Glassworks district. $ p f BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680 , 4 112 Out er L oop, 966-5555, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-6680, 7 07 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination

STEAKS

•

FRESH SEAFOOD

• • 12

SANDWICHE S PA S TA S

•

SALADS

D A I LY S P E C I A L S B E E R S O N TA P

T h e N e w D e ke ' s O n M a r ke t

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

BISTRO 3O1 Dine In, Carry Out Seasonal Outdoor Dining

CORNER OF THIRD & MARKET 301 WEST MARKET STREET 5 8 4 - 8 3 3 7 • w w w.bistro301.com THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

Open • 11AM - 10PM Monday thru Saturday

Happy Hour • 4PM - 7PM M o n d a y t h r u Fr i d a y Formerly Deke's Marketplace Grill Matt and Molly Mershon Proprietors Since 2001

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of mountain lodge atmospher e and Americanstyle f are mak e these popular des tinations. T he large menu features down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline from the riverfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f

GAVI’S RES TAURANT 2 2 2 S. Se venth St., 583-8183.

This f amily-owned eat ery has been ar ound f or decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Rus sian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $

CAFÉ MA GNOLIA 140 N. F ourth St. ( Galt House ), 589-52 00. T he Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alt ernative, this spacious venue—formerly the River Grille, offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p

HOOTERS 412 0 Dut chmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4 948 Dixie Hw y., 44 9-4194; 77 01 Pr eston Hw y., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 189485; 94 1 Eas t Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-s tanding reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e

CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor C enter), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian f are a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CAPTAIN’S QU ARTERS 5700 Captain’ s Quart ers Rd., 2 2 8- 1651. One of the city’ s mos t attr active eateries f or atmospher e, Captain’ s Quart ers matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle f are that w on’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF F AME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou w ant f ood t oo? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr . (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Kno wn b y locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w Y ork s trip, ribe ye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e CHEDDAR’S CA SUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 80-9660. T his popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry cr owds with its lar ge bar and f amiliar “ casual t o upscale American” f are, now adds a sec ond pr operty in Southern Indiana. $ p CHICK INN 632 5 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 3646.

Louisville’s f amiliar Chick Inn has been in its ne w building for a year and a half now, but regulars still talk about it as the “ne w place.” Happily, the ne w place is just as comfy as the old, and the e xcellent fried chicken is as good as it gets. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-6800. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p COY’S 4041 Pr eston Hw y., 36 3-2 2 66. A change in management pr ompts a ne w name and spring cleaning f or the old, f amiliar L ongino’s Grill, but we’re counting on similar friendly service and oldfashioned comfort fare to maintain the popularity of this casual South End des tination. $$ p f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6, 301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 362 5. Carrying on int o its third c entury in modern quart ers that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and no w in a sec ond eat ery on Harrods Creek. $ f DUKE’S GRILLE & BAR 4413. $$ p f

4004 G ardiner P t., 7 53-

EVA MAE’S 6313 Upper River Rd., 228-2882. $$ f e FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. T his c omfortable spac e features both buff et and menu dining. One pric e covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu oft en includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p

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JIMMY’S ON THE RIVER 100 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 -2 500 . T he menu at this friendly bar and eat ery f eatures aff ordable bar food and munchies, but the f astidious ma y choose fr om the menu’ s “Light er Side .” Hearty meals at budget pric es and a s triking riv erside view. $ p f e JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong aft er man y y ears in this Lyndon location, Joe’ s has gr adually grown from a little house t o a spr awling c omplex of indoor and out door tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e JOLLY ROGERS 850 Main St., Charles town, IN, 2566366. $$ f JUKE BO X Highlander Point Shopping C Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

enter,

KAELIN’S RES TAURANT 1801 Ne wburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 7 0 y ears, and their cheek y claim t o ha ve invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. It ’s f aring w ell with no r eal changes under new ownership. $ f KARMA CAFÉ 112 6 Bar dstown Rd., 58 7-0062 .

Karma Café stays open late and offers a eclectic meld of diner-s tyle courses and Middle Eas tern fare in a casually artsy and informal setting. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This f amily-owned ta vern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top sinc e 19 78. K ern’s off ers freshly made ham, chick en salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS A T CAES ARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he hot and c old short or ders ar e serv ed up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the mos t popular places in town for brunch (and dinner t oo), Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e F air’s t ongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp C ontest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling f ood. $$ p MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. T hird St., 6 36-2 511. A fine , family L ouisville tr adition, this f amiliar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s largest full-servic e r estaurant and the city’ s largest cat erer. Serving a lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 939662 , 39 2 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 4 12 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly

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100 pr operties with a s teady f ormula of friendly service and casual-dining f are that r anges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads t o mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f

named Sam some 16 years ago, the two locations feed an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood, steaks, pas tas, salads and des serts. T he menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p

THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wher e the Highlands meet Germant own, T he Monk ey Wrench off ers c omfort f ood with a s tylish spin, accompanied by good music, a r elaxed ambience and exceptionally welcoming service. $ p f

SHANE’S 1004 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9769. $

NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also mak es excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations ) O’Charle y’s, Inc. c ould serve well as the pictur e in the dictionary ne xt to “American casual dining. ” T he Nash ville-based chain operates 2 06 pr operties in 16 s tates in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p OLD CHICA GO P ASTA & PIZ ZA 9010 T aylorsville Rd., 301- 7700. T he quart ers that onc e housed hordes of noisy pizza-eating kids as Gattiland has taken on a mor e gr own-up char acter—but s till with pizza—as this gr owing chain arriv es in t own with thick Chicago-s tyle and thin tr aditional pies, and an imposing list of 110 beers. $$ p f ON THE RIVER DINING 1902 Victory Ln., 228-4359.

Restaurateur-hosts Cherri and Rick Br own ha ve taken o ver management of this f amiliar bar gebased eatery on the banks of the Ohio in Oldham County and the y’ve thr ottled back a bit on the fancy f are in f avor of old-f ashioned do wn-home cooking. $ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buff et and the Ex ecutive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PUB L OUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Liv e 56 9-7782 .

Owned b y Cincinnati’ s T he T avern R estaurant Group, T he P ub f eatures “nouv eau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes lik e fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurs t Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e R ed Alfr edo P asta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the lar gest and mos t cr eative salad combinations in town. $$ p RANCH HOUSE 2611 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-9199. The menu and the retro 1950s decor hark back t o the original Bob C olgazier’s restaurants that Baby Boomers remember fondly from days gone by. $ e RUBY TUESD AY 5001 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-02 00, 11701 Bluegr ass Pk wy., 2 6 7-7100. If suc cess demonstrates quality , then Rub y T uesday’s 600 international pr operties and 30 ,000 emplo yees can stand up with pride . They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in jus t about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of f are, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations fr om Gener ation X’ ers t o aging hippies. $ p f e SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 P ayne K ohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 724 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-7979. Opened b y a man

SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signatur e Dr., 9698904. F or nearly 50 y ears, Shone y’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s t op choic es f or f ast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-12 34, Plainview V illage C enter, 42 9-5 773, 39 2 Dutchman’s Ln., 895- 7578, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37402 0, 42 6 W . Mark et St., 56 1-9999. L ouisville’s outposts of a f amous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eat eries off er the r egional f avorite (really it ’s Gr eek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ STATION HOUSE GRILL 6000 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-8334. T he sign out fr ont bears a ne w name and the menu is much e xpanded sinc e this Crestwood f avorite changed its name fr om Laine’s Latt e Café. But its lo yal client ele will be pleased to know that Laine Spooner still presides, and the bill of f are r emains f ocused on w ellfashioned family fare at affordable prices. $$ p STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 91-3397, 10 72 1 Fischer P ark Dr ., 32 6- 362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85- 1154. One of the oldes t f astfood chains in the U .S., St eak N Shak e tr aces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak bur gers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, 2311 Lime Kiln Ln., 32 7-8443, Fourth Street Live, 5853577. T he original plac e t o loosen the tie and congregate aft er the whis tle blo ws. TGIF carries on its party atmospher e tradition with American bistro dining and libations. T he bill of f are ranges fr om bask ets of appetiz ers on up t o contemporary entrées. $$ p f TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389 . Value and v ariety are the s trong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om bur gers t o lobs ter tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 58 7-3434. Dine on café f are in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobb y while y ou tak e advantage of an en vironment made f or peoplewatching. The extensive menu ranges from drinks to desserts, a club sandwich to a filet mignon. The Trellis also offers a popular and expansive Sunday brunch. $$ p

Classic Italian

with a classic view.

Whether you’re passionate about pizza or crazy about calzones, check out the stunning view from our enormous deck and enjoy your favorite Italian dish.

Pizza Pies • Calzones Pasta • Specialties Bottomless salads and oven fresh bread 715 W. Riverside Drive (off I-65) with scenic views of Louisville on the River in Jeffersonville, IN 812.282.3844

TUCKER’S 2 441 Stat e St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, off ering bur gers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWICE TOLD PERFORMANCE CAFÉ 3507 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, 222-4506. An eclectic urban café in a village setting, about 2 0 minut es eas t of downtown in LaGr ange. T he casual menu lis ts sandwiches, fruits and v eggies; daily soups and entrées. $ e TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bar dstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home v ery lat e on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e t o gr ab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he V illa Buff et

Two convenient locations serving lunch and dinner for dine in or carry out.

10206 Westport Rd. (off I-265)

502.339.0808

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offers an impr essive choic e of int ernational dishes, with some 150 selections. A seaf ood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$ WESTPORT GENERAL S TORE 7008 Hw y 5 2 4, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour ’s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, proprietors Will and Laura Cr awford w elcome visit ors t o this c ozy destination, offering a comfortably sophisticated bill of f are that w ould in no w ay be out of plac e in a fancy city bistro. $$

BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ BIG MAMA ’S SOUL KIT CHEN 4532 W . Br oadway, 772 -9580. Big Mama’ s ma y be the mos t hospitable place in the W est End t o get genuine soul f ood. A diff erent main c ourse is f eatured daily, all home-c ooked f ood, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ tw o” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett A ve., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germant own saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. T he parking lot of this whit e fr ame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend

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nights as f amilies from throughout the ar ea wait on delectable fried chick en. This is the v ery heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy , crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, aff ordable menu. $ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style c ookery in an array of lunch specials that r ange fr om homemade soups and sandwiches t o the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 37-432 5. No w, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eas tern Parkway not f ar from the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. T hird St., 583-8015. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the c ounters and booths of this clas sic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 72 99 Dixie Hw y., 2 71-3663. T he name “ diner” sa ys it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot Dixie High way deliv ers jus t what y ou’d e xpect in do wn-home c omfort f are.

The word on the s treet, though, is simple: Go f or the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better

still, y ou can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that y ou set y our e xpectations f or hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hw y., 966-4 970, 140 2 C edar St., 2 58-2 540. Buff et s tyle family dining—one pric e, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-f ashioned comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet tas te t o the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou lik e y our eggs o ver eas y, or your cheesebur gers w ell done , y ou’ll lik e the Hazelwood R estaurant. Standar d short or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 32 6-9 777, 664 1 Dixie Hw y., 9953320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This chain serves up nos talgic dishes, cas seroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Mark et St., 77 8-5154, 4 901 Poplar L evel Rd., 964-5 749, 3353 F ern V alley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 535. Gr own fr om a tin y West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RES TAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . C ountry c ooking is Jes sie’s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS F AST FOOD 2 101 W . Br oadway, 77 2 -7138.

This tin y, c olorful W est End eat ery, open f or takeout only , off ers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $

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KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LONGINO’S 1506 Berry Blvd., 361-9153. Don’t let the Italian f amily name f ool y ou, this local fixtur e recently mo ved fr om its longtime home on Preston to this ne w spot near Chur chill Downs— features do wn-home c ooking, mos tly, r anging from fried green tomatoes to hearty meat loaf t o “The Manhattan.” $ MR. L OU’S C OUNTRY C OTTAGE RES TAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s c ountry c ooking s tyle. R oast chick en is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner , not t o mention full bar servic e that mak es O’Dolly s a South west L ouisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. F ourth St., 588-900 3.

No matt er what y ou’re hungry f or, chanc es ar e Olive’s has it—fr om s team-table f are t o pizza and calzones. C o-owners Linda Z eisloft and V icky Wright bring long back grounds at Sulliv an University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f SWEET PEA’S SOUTHERN (see listing under Bistro) TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 North western Pk wy,, 77 65505. A rich and c olorful his tory surr ounds the century-old fr ame building in Portland that no w houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shak es, cherry C okes and an early bird “ trainer’s” br eakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing his tory on the w alls and serv ers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. Webb’s is deli sandwich market style dining.

Country ham sandwiches and the half-pound cheeseburger are a specialty. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 84-2 66 7. T his bus tling eat ery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ COLONNADE CAFETERIA 455 S. Fifth St. (Starks Building) 584-6846. Sometimes cafeteria fare hits the spot, and this much-lo ved local landmark in the basement of the Starks Building has w on a multi-generational crowd of loyal fans. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-42 30 . T his thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars f eaturing baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $

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PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gar dener’s lis t of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $ SOUTH SIDE INN CAFETERIA 114 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-9645. T his v enerable f amilyowned caf eteria is the v ery es sence of caf eteria dining. R oast beef , fried Alask an whit efish, spaghetti and meat sauc e, pies chock full of fruit and old-f ashioned v egetables c ome in huge portions for low prices. $

BUFFALO CROSSING 1140 Bagdad Rd., Shelb yville, KY, (502) 647-0377. If you’d like to combine a day trip with a culinary adv enture, consider a drive to Buffalo Cr ossing in Shelb y C ounty. T his agricultural amusement park f eatures a 500-head buffalo herd and an o versize dining r oom where you can give this healthy red meat a try. The food here is c ountry-style and so ar e the friendly servers. $$ f DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, L ouisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater s weepstakes … but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that f eatures a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at F ourth Str eet Liv e on the ground level. $ p e JILLIAN’S 630 Barr et A ve., 589-9090 . L ouisville’s outpost of the Bos ton-based billiar d-themed restaurant concept, this big and nois y bar, food and billiards sc ene is housed under the t owering concrete columns of a former grain elevator just east of downtown. Always filled with a happ y crowd, it’s the place to go for casual food and fun. $ p f e JOE HUBER F AMILY F ARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 9 23-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute driv e fr om do wntown L ouisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation f or simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr emises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY S TRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Str eet Liv e, 560-1400. An upscale bo wling alle y? A clas sy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle r etro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f

HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 St ory A ve., 583-043 7.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $

MY OLD KENTUCK Y DINNER TRAIN 602 N. T hird St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old K entucky Dinner T rain offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations ar e s trongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p

JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40- year-old f amily-owned r estaurant kno ws how t o c ook f or f olks mis sing their home table .

Count on an att entive s taff and fr esh southern fare. $

STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riv erside Rd., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1565. T he Ohio Riv er cruise is the bes t thing about this L ove Boat-s tyle y acht that makes nightly all- you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f

JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W . Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Ja y’s modern, w ell-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane .

Hungry diners fr om all o ver t own find a w arm welcome at this popular West End location that ’s now run as a c ommunity-development pr ogram by two local churches. $

STUMLER RES TAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 9 23-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chick en, big ham s teaks, r oast beef , and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 67

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ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie , dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $ ANGIO’S RES TAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. T his small Buechel eat ery attr acts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with c old beer. $ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 44 9-4444. Annie’ s has made-t oorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef , Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ AVER’S GOURMET PIZZA 4610 Taylorsville Rd., 6711999. T his gr owing r egional mini-chain has no w expanded to Louisville, boasting a “gourmet pizza to go” c oncept that f eatures “ exotic” pizza combos lik e “Cr eam & Crimson, ” f eaturing potatoes and bac on, Alfr edo sauc e and cheese .

Takeout and delivery only. $$ BEARNO’S PIZZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7720, 2900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6 101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 2 2 2 , 135-F Mark etplace Dr ., 95 7-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 7-2 549, 1318 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4556, 8019 Pr eston Hw y., 968-6060 , 4 105 Dixie Hwy., 449-4141, 9222 Westport Rd.,423-1224, 7895 Dixie Hwy., 937-1234, 1923 S. Fourth St., 6345155, 3002 Charlestown Crossing, 949-7914. $ p CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, Ne w Albany, IN., 944-4 942 , 309 3 Br eckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hw y., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’ s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain’ s Ne w Alban y pizz eria, the first of 10 planned metr o locations, serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZ ZA 2 2 30 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 3-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up t oppings lik e ancho vies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of m y favorite local pizzerias. $ f e DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZZA 6825 Central Ave., 243-1101. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGr ange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort A ve., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pas ta dishes and salads.

The Lyndon spot lures a friendly bik er crowd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $ FAT TONY’S PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 339-3553.

Formerly Brick Ov en Pizza, F at Tony’s has been attracting big lunchtime crowds to Plainview with authentic Ne w Y ork-style pizza, the thin-crus t kind with o versize slices that y ou have to fold in half in order to make a mouth-size portion. Other basic Italian- American pas ta dishes add t o the appeal of this casual, aff ordable spot. $$ FRATELLO’S PIZ ZA 735 E wing Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 84- 12 34. F amily o wned and oper ated, Fratello’s off ers fr esh, homemade pies. T angy, spicy sauc e and a che wy crus t with a dis tinctly garlicky fla vor define Fr atello’s pizza; add points for warm and friendly hospitality $ FROLIO’S PIZ ZA 3799 Poplar L evel Rd., 456- 1000.

Just ar ound the c orner fr om the L ouisville Z oo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian- American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f 68 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555, 8442 Dixie Hw y., 9 35-3555, La Gr ange Squar e Shopping C enter, 2 2 2 -4444. P asta dishes, hoagies, s tromboli and c old beer ar e a vailable, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406.

Old-timers are delighted to see Jock amo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depart ed Bardstown Road. Some of the original o wners ( except the lat e Da ve Wilder) ha ve r ecreated the s tyle, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e LITTLE CAES AR’S PIZ ZA 816 K enwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 G alene Dr ., 2 6 7-8600, 562 2 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800 , 6 714 Out er L oop, 966- 3111. T his Detroit-based pizz eria chain los t mark et shar e in the ‘90s, but busines s analy sts sa y the c ompany known f or its tw o-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ra y’s, this local pizzeria mak es good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f MA ZERELLA S 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 2 46-9517, 2 868 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 948-8000. Pleasant f amily-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pas ta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 356708, 42 00 Out er L oop, 964-09 2 0. T his A ustinbased chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach L ouisville in the 19 70s, and quality ingredients—plus G attiland pla ygrounds f or the kids—have made its crisp , thin-crus t pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ NEW YORK CAPRI PIZZA 1503 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 284-1480. $ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962- 7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 6 756 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations ) “P apa” John Schnatter got int o the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3, 000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ PIE IN THE SK Y 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 2 40-9988.

This pizzeria offers up pies with fr esh ingredients and hand-tossed dough. T he selection of beer is wide and so is the TV scr een for those w eekend gatherings. P asta, salads and sandwiches— including the popular Hot Sicilian—r ound out the casual dining menu. $$ PIZZA BO X 10331 Champion F arms Dr ., 42 3-0530 .

Moved early in 2 005 fr om its longtime , spartan quarters near the Ford Kentucky Truck Plant, Pizza Box now boasts more modern and stylish quarters in Springhurs t. It ’s s till a popular gathering plac e, and the e xcellent pizzas ar e s till a dr aw, e ven if they’ve cut back on the onc e imposing beer list. $ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-t ossed dough. C ome and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 945-4405, 1066 K ehoe Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King is bak ed in a s turdy,

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C.A.P.P.P.’S DELI 4010 Dupont Cir., 895-7064. $

clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-722. $$ SNAPPY T OMATO (7 L ocations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-deliv ery chain based in Northern K entucky, Snapp y Tomato mo ved int o the Louisville market this summer, taking o ver all the pr operties v acated in Pizza Magia’ s demise .

Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ SPINELLI’S PIZ ZERIA 614 Baxt er A ve., 568-5665.

This tin y s torefront in the city’ s night club z one offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight cr owd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesdays thr ough Saturdays. Bett er y et, it giv es L ouisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f SPORTSTIME PIZZA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2 577. T outing “ the bes t pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but when the pizza biz is part of the Ne w Albanian Br ewing Company, the boast carries w eight. T he N.A.B. C. is the ne west offshoot of Rich O’s, nationally noted for its huge selection of microbrews and hard-to-find imports.

Try the “Herbavore” with spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic for a sizzling start. $

CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $ p AMAZING GRA CE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “v egan” means only r aw carrots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alt ernative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached t o a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner provides the ne xt best thing t o a f amily cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhanc e the nostalgic theme. $ f BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & S ALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hik es Ln., 451-5480 . Sublime subs—fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $

CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ DANISH EXPRES S PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Jus t a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook int o a sit-in br eakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time . Full br eakfasts and light lunches ar e a vailable, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries ar e the specialty , and they’re fine. $ DINO’S DO WN T O L UNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eat ery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A do wntown deli f avorite. Daily specials ar e surr ounded by an impr essive v ariety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 245-3354, 216 N. Hurs tbourne Ln., 394-0021, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 89 3-3354, 2 2 41 Stat e St., Ne w

TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bar dstown Rd., 458-8889 . Boombo zz wins praise f or e xceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both tr aditional pies and gourmet-s tyle specialties that ha ve w on a wards in national competition. $$ TONY BOOMBO ZZ PIZ ZA & VINO 2 813 N. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 394-0000 . Boombo zz has taken its pizza c oncept t o a ne w le vel with the opening of Pizza & V ino in Springhurs t. The new “fast casual” f acility f eatures the a ward-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis with a w ell-chosen wine and beer lis t, in a a s triking “urban loft ” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale ac cent. $$ p TONY IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr ., 42 90606. T he original Impellizz eri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but tw o Impellizzeri brothers still pr oduce the f amily’s memor able pies in the suburbs. T his s trip-center s torefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$ UNO CHICAGO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-0079. T his suc cessful fr anchise serv es up Chicago style pizza—deep dish with more toppings than crust. Steaks, pastas, sandwiches and burgers complement the full service menu. $$ p VITO’S PIZ ZERIA 32 13 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s f ans sa y the sizzling, o ven-charred pies at this downscale little plac e on Pr eston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZ ZA PARLOR 975 Baxt er Ave., 458- 182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies ar e s traightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ WINDY CITY PIZ ZERIA 2 62 2 S. F ourth St., 6 363708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whiche ver option a pizza lo ver desires. $$ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 69

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Albany, IN, 981-012 4, 2226 Holida y Manor C enter, 42 6-3354. T his c onvenient deli specializ es in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fresh bagels with an arr ay of cr eam cheese , sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches—subs, panini, wr aps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ EURO MARKET 12907 Factory Ln., 2 43-0000. It looks like a neighborhood c onvenience s tore and bottle shop, but when you get inside, it contains a delicious surprise: an appetizing servic e c ounter off ers a variety of goodies t o take out or eat in. Don’t mis s the excellent fried-oyster box, as well as an intriguing selection of quality beers and fine wines. $ THE FEED BA G DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896- 1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, des serts t op off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW Y ORK DELI 62 47 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-9005. S mall and spartan, this tw oroom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ GELI CAKES 1589 Bardstown Rd., 456-2 466. It’s a delight to have this casual eat ery on Bardstown Road. T he specialty is Italian gelat o, and it comes pr etty close t o the r eal thing. But don’t start with des sert; the panini ar e firs t-rate, and it’s also open for weekend brunch. $ f HEADY’Z 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507. Formerly Cheba Hut, this quick-service sub shop continues with the head-shop theme and good quick eats. $ HEAVENLY HAM Northgate Center, New Albany IN, 941-9426. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 757 Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-1799. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

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JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. Eas t Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capic ola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slic e of L ouisville lif e, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the r eal thing. Neighborhood deniz ens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home t o a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chanc e he’ s sitting at Juanita’s counter right no w, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 949-7567. E very city needs a pos tage-stampsized spot that kno ws ho w t o fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback t o the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380 . T his appetizing oper ation off ers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a tas te of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet.

Make Lonnie’s the plac e to go when y ou’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6 361. As the name sugges ts, L otsa P asta originat ed as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local favorite since it opened over 20 years ago. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese .

Now with an e xcellent deli c ounter fashions New Orleans-style muffulettas and other sandwiches. $ 70 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. T his outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet his toric district, this f ashionable deli lur es the sa vvy business midday crowd. $ f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-9997, 1305 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality cus tomer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chick en t ortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special w ay with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ f NANCY’S BA GEL GROUND S 2 101 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for har d-core “f oodies,” with e xtra cr edit f or friendly, welcoming service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food his tory r emains on an urban street c orner in Old L ouisville. It ’s one of the nation’s f ew surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ‘70s. Ov ersize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ PANERA BREAD C O. 5000 Shelb yville Rd., 8999992 , 62 2 1 Dut chmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 42 3- 7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr ., 42 6-2 134, 1040 V eterans Pk wy., Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9400 . W arm br eads finishbaked on the pr emises mak e a tas ty base f or a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, c offee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot mak e P anera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4 946 Br ownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059 , 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-00 72 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces for pr oduce, cheeses, deli it ems, and the lik e.

Deli sandwiches and salads ar e a vailable (takeout only). $ PENN S TATION (14 L ocations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations ) T oasted br eads, a sandwich selection of meats, v eggies and fish ar e built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 42 59 Out er L oop, 96 9-0506, 10531 Fischer P ark Dr., 42 5-844, 12 915 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9069. T he original Schlotzsk y’s off ered just one kind of sandwich—“T he Original”—when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant impr ovement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. T wo Guys and a Grill is no mor e, but one assumes that the grill r emains on the pr emises of this suburban luncheon spot under its new name $ SLUGGERS DELI 32 0 Main St., 56 9-3939. Right across the s treet fr om L ouisville Slugger Field, this s tylish ne w deli adds another lunch and dinner option t o the booming eas t-of-downtown zone. Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar ’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the pr emises,

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with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 99-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2 000, 94 93 W estport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 9 30 Dr. W illiam W eathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles y ou will find such clas sics as chees y potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ THE S TARVING ARTIS T CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

8034 Ne w

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn f or cat ering and takeout fare. They cook just as w ell if y ou choose to stay in, though, off ering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY P ATCH DELI 11616 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-1440. T his Middlet own deli off ers health y food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964- 1075. The hardy No . 19 , a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An arr ay of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ THEATER SQU ARE DELI 2 2 T heater Squar e, 5840364. T he name has changed (f ormerly Anthony’s), but the mis sion remains pretty much the same: Feed do wntown lunch cr owds quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches f W.W. C OUSINS RES TAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. T his locally o wned and oper ated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job , with huge bur gers on magis terial home-bak ed buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this bus y downtown deli will serv e in-house diners or tak e or ders f or deliv eries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ WILD O ATS NA TURAL MARKETPLA CE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-7373. This national natural-food grocery includes a sit-do wn café wher e y ou can order pizzas, sandwiches, or even sushi. $ f ZAP’S 423 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-0251 $

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 V alley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bak e’s ribs ar e smok ed t o such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue , fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$ BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7 508 Pr eston Hw y., 968-565 7.

Bootleg Barbecue off ers a t ouch of rus ticity and a good helping of c ountry hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell pr epared and affordable smok ed meats and fixin’ s. It ’s one of the f ew plac es in L ouisville wher e y ou can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BOURBON BROS. BBQ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 8962 486; 16 11 Charles town-New Alban y Pik e, Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83-9000 . Bourbon Br os. BBQ prepares w ell-crafted smok ed meats including pork ribs that, on their bes t da ys, appr oach competition quality. An added plus f or interesting sauces including at leas t one that ’s amply dosed with the eatery’s namesake booze. Winning critical acclaim as one of the city’ s t op barbecue joints, now adds a location in Southern Indiana. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666. Servic e is caf eteria-style in this shopping-

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center es tablishment f eaturing T ennessee-style barbecue, wher e hick ory-smoked barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners are the specialty. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsont own Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western K entucky-style barbecue is w ell w orth a special trip . Lik e man y mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ CLEON’S RIB SHA CK 701 Algonquin Pk wy., 6 350750. It’s a shack, f or sure, and Cleon keeps some weird hours, but that’s part of the mystique, and if you can catch him when the smoke is rising, you’re in for some manly spare ribs and soulful sides. $ f FAMOUS D AVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain oper ation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its e xuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the f ood, and Da ve’s e xcels with genuine , hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W .

Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork —all f or dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 39- 7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304, 2 11 S. Fifth St., 5401171, 86 10 Dixie Hwy., 995- 7585, 12 2 16 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-2 2 73.

Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pa ys homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. T he barbecue and c ountry fixin’ s s tand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 K enwood Dr ., 3 75-1888. T his South End barbecue shack, an outpos t of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the premises, with sauc e serv ed on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’ s off ers e xceptionally good Texas-style barbecue fr om a little w ooden shack that looks jus t lik e a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelb yville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 1570, 10 316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a f ormer f eed s tore with that do wn-home country f eel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauc e, the y ellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om Gener al Electric ’s Applianc e P ark, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ PEPPER SHAKER CHILI & BAR-B-Q 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 962 - 7077. A squadr on of hea vy blackiron smok ers burn thr ough c ords of hick ory t o turn out some of the t own’s bes t barbecue at a price that’s right. $ p PETTERSON’S BAR-B-Q BARN 7705 Hw y 311, Sellersburg, IN, 2 48-9063. Another ne w and welcome entry in Southern Indiana, w e’re reliably informed that this do wn-home-style barbecue eatery off ers c omfort f ood “ as good as pock et aces and Texas hold ’em.” $ PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 71

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chops right in the middle of a hungry busines district. $ f

s

PIT S TOP BAR-B-QUE 612 S. Fifth St., 584-4054.

Genuine T exas barbecue , dry and t ender meat, red-rimmed and savory from hours in the smoker, is the style served here. March up to the window, place your order, bus your own plate. No muss, no fuss, and it is very good. $ f RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. T his South End f amily kno ws ho w t o do BBQ. It ma y be off the beat en path f or some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A ne wish “ concept” of the Orlandobased Dar den chain that runs Oliv e G arden, Red L obster and Bahama Br eeze, this hot Hurstbourne spot off ers good ribs in a nois y sports-bar environment that emulates a Colorado ski lodge. $$ p TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, R oma’s adv ertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in t own. Burgers, chicken and s teaks are available as w ell, but w e r ecommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef . $$$ p VINCE S TATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42 , 2 2 8-742 7. A uthor V ince Stat en, who literally wr ote the book on barbecue (R eal Barbecue), has moved from a Prospect storefront to the historic old Melrose Inn a mile or so out the road int o Oldham C ounty. V ince’s “ cue” in this evocative setting should mak e a very good thing even better. $

BEEF O’BRAD Y’S 2 39 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 32 7-8881, 3101 S. Sec ond St., 637-3737, 105 LaF ollette, 9 2 3-1316. If y ou think your basic sports pub is only suitable f or guy s guzzling beer, tak e another look: Beef O’Br ady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ BIG D AVE’S OUTPOS T 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 45932 90. No w open in the old house at Bar dstown Road and Speed A venue r ecently v acated b y Judge Roy Bean, Big Da ve’s evokes a hint of the happy memory of the old Fat Cats that once held court her e: In similar f ashion, it ’s a casual, laidback neighborhood saloon, wher e libations and simple pub grub are the order of business. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar . Riley died bef ore their dream came true . But no w O’C onnor pr oudly presides o ver this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pk wy., 32 6-9830 . Restaurant o wner and namesak e K eith Br own used t o hos t neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home .

Now he brings the same sociable c oncept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closes t thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelb yville Rd., 899- 7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 72 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack -type f are, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f CHAMPIONS SPORT S RES TAURANT 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the s triking ne w downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub . $$ p f CRIBSTONE PUB 1202 Bardstown Rd., 459-3339. This tiny Bardstown Road eatery turns a neighborhood bar int o a lobs ter and s teak house , wher e fine seafood and beef is serv ed without pomp or circumstance in a setting so casual that y ou can wear your shorts and T-shirt to dine. $$$ p DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson C ounty C ourthouse around the c orner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems as if it has been a hangout f or la wyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Fr ankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do y ou lik e guitars with y our grub ? A popular half-way-home hangout f or decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned sinc e 195 2 , Flabb y’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s t op des tinations f or ine xpensive do wnhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxt er A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks t o this c ozy neighborhood pub . F or a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 9 30.

Steam-table servic e f eaturing spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attr act a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” c oncept oper ated b y a W ichita, K ansasbased chain, F ox & Hound’ s ne w fr ee-standing property at Oxmoor C enter f eatures a “midcasual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large, classy venue with plenty of wood paneling, billiards tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. T hird St., 6 35-6475. A longtime gathering plac e f or U of L s tudents, faculty and f ans, this s turdy r edbrick ta vern jus t north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled f are plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t kno wn, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Critt enden Dr .

(Hilton), 6 37-2 42 4. L ocated in the L ouisville International Airport Hilt on. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e a vailable f or the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f

HITCHING POS T INN 7314 F egenbush Ln., 2 394724. In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and liv ely c onversation, the Hit ching Pos t Inn offers an arr ay of pub grub , including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p HOOPS GRILL AND SPORT S BAR 12205 Westport Rd., 32 7-8002 , 6 733 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-4667.

The name sa ys it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place in these friendly neighborhood spots where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $

p

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarks ville, IN, 2882100. Food & Dining’s Southern Indiana office has declared this the official lunch spot, lur ed b y quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an a wesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so t ender, they say, that y ou can jus t tap the end of the bone on y our plat e, and the meat falls off. $ p e THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. T his lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home c ooking and ta vern en vironment f or years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chick en and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ MACVITTIE’S 106 Sears Ave., 895-2599. An intriguing range of casual, homemade vittles, er , vitties that range from German Jaeger Schnitz el to beef s tew in a bread-loaf “bowl” highlight the bill of fare at this friendly, locally o wned St. Matthe ws spot that f or many years was home to Asiatique. $ p MICHAEL MURPHY’S RES TAURANT 701 S. Firs t St., 587-0013. This full servic e restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetit es for a couple of gener ations. Despit e the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2 630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e OSCAR’S BAR & GRILL 252 E. Market St., 581-1222. $ p e P. NUT S SPORT S BAR & GRILL 1506 Lak eshore Ct., 412 -1700. T his ne w w atering hole in Plain view boasts a friendly suburban pub atmospher e, offering bar and grill food with a sports-bar theme.

Check out its Club Oasis for a full array of cocktails and a 2 0-it em beer lis t, and enjo y dining on the oversize deck with r oom f or 140 o verlooking Plainview’s small lake. $ p f e SADDLE RIDGE S ALOON Fourth Str eet Liv e, 56 93507. $ p f e SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two r estaurants in one , Saints f eatures both a small, intimat e, candle-light ed r oom and a lar ger, happily bois terous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar. Saints is mostly about the bars and the music, but don’t o verlook its casual f are, from salads to pasta and excellent pizzas. $$ p e STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charles town Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar.

Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ p f TAILGATERS SPORT S BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41. Billed as a pr emier des tination f or good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’ s Stadium f eatures clas sic American favorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game room. $ p f e THE TRES TLE SPORTS CAFÉ 263-7130 $ p

3701 Hope well Rd.,

VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ WINGS N THINGS 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-9464. $ WOODFORD RESER VE BAR & GRILLE Louisville International Airport, 363-2526. Named after local

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distiller Br own-Forman’s artisanal br and of Bourbon, this is the airport ’s fine-dining f acility, serving K entucky-style dishes in a sit-do wn environment. $ ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and w elcoming neighborhood bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub. $ p f e

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899- 7070, 6 36 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Squar e, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination f or beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew tr ail, but it ’s mor e than jus t a brewpub. BBC’ s management giv es equally serious att ention t o both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat plac e t o s top in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 4. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Browning’s offers first-rate brewpub beers and tas ty, inf ormal f are that r anges fr om pub grub to pastas, to pizza. $$ p f e CUMBERLAND BREW S 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 458872 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Br ews ma y be one of the smalles t eat eries in t own. It ’s usually packed, earning its cr owds the old-f ashioned way b y pr oviding v ery good f ood, friendly service, and high-quality hand-cr afted artisan beers. $ f e RICH O’S PUBLIC HOUSE 3312 Plaza Dr ., Ne w Albany IN, 94 9-2 804. Dec ent barbecue and pub grub mak e Rich O’ s a popular hangout, and his remarkable beer lis t of mor e than 100 selections from ar ound the w orld—and no w locally br ewed craft beers—attracts beer lovers from all over. $ e

CAFÉ KILIMANJARO 649 S. F ourth St., 583-4332 .

Café Kilimanjar o sho wcases Black -heritage cuisine, offering well-prepared treats from Africa, the Caribbean and Black America r anging fr om fiery Ethiopian w ots (meat barbecue ) t o spicy Jamaican jerk cuisine to the comforting soul food of the American South. $ p f

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says owner Steven Yuan, is the first between-thecoasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ 2 HAHN’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 4 93-02 34. Thirteenth C entury Mongol warriors used t o turn their s teel shields t o use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. 2 Hahn’s carries their spirit forward. This allyou-can-eat buffet is fun, and the f ood is fine. $$ p A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 85-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 4 79-9989. C ompetent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet off erings s tay fr esh and hot mak es these buffets a good choic e among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 L exington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng L ooi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Z en mas ter’s s tyle. C onsistent commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot f or Asian f are. A lo vely patio at the r ear aff ords an alfr esco dining e xperience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar L evel Rd., 451- 3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern L ouisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian f are, but it ’s a r eliable sour ce f or the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hw y., 968-46 72 . A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu it ems. $ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eat eries around the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus. It ’s generally packed with s tudents, professors, and a squadron of campus polic e so lar ge that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA KING Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN., 923-1288. $

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1215 Gilmore Ln., 968-865 9. Add yet another int eresting ethnic cuisine t o L ouisville’s incr easingly int ernational dining sc ene. Friendly f olks serv e gener ous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om West Africa in this tiny (three-table) eatery. $

CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. T he r egion’s only fully authentic Ethiopian r estaurant, off ering a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a v ariety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but the y’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $

CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $

TERANGA AFRICAN RES TAURANT 3904 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 7172 . T his bright and sunn y spot in Buechel houses v ery friendly f olks who’ll introduce y ou t o the culinary delights of W est Africa. The sparkling v enue is on the lo w-budget side, but wher e else in t own can y ou enjo y intriguing A frican dishes while w atching Senegalese music videos on sat ellite TV? $

12 689 Shelb yville Rd., 2

45-

CHINATOWN 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 896-9888, 4214 Outer L oop, 968-2 688. If y ou’re hungry, y ou can get mor e t o eat her e f or les s than jus t about anyplace else in t own, and the w eekend seaf ood buffet in particular is a deal that ’s hard to beat. $

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHINESE RES TAURANT 8605 Pr eston Hw y., 9687450. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $

#1 A SIAN BUFFET 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 451-60 33.

Not jus t another in the her d of all- you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this r ecent entry in the Mid-City Mall seats 350 , boasts a priv ate party r oom, and,

DOUBLE DRA GON 12 55 Gos s A ve., 6 35-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-888 7. A s tandout among f astfood shopping-c enter Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 73

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DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping s trip, off ers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The c ontinuing pr oliferation of look alik e, tas te alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happ y to report that Dynas ty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hw y., 568-2 688.

Serving Chinese and American f ood fr om the menu or the buffet. $ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands s taple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. T he Sesame Chicken is one of our f avorites. $$ p

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EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6- 1717. One of L ouisville’s f anciest and most not eworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quart ers ar e s tylishly s trewn acr oss multiple le vels of a f ormer suburban mo vie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s firs t serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. T his Clifton r estaurant r anks high up in the f ast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ GREAT W OK 2 502 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-1918. Jus t about every shopping c enter in t own has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $

tastefully exciting. casually chic.

HAPPY DRA GON 2 600 W . Br oadway, 77 8-2 573.

Catering to office and r esidential customers, this Chinese r estaurant has serv ed the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f HONG K ONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 Ne w Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG K ONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y int ernational eat eries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese s tandards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’v e got a hank ering f or brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time , but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Frida y through Monday, when it off ers the metr o area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr ., 2 44-8896. A charming Asian eat ery, wher e y ou can enjo y familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge y our more adv enturous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo off ers a s tandard all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buff et offers a s tandard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping c enter location, Ling Ling is a cut abo ve f ast-food Chinese; bett er y et, it adds a f ew V ietnamese dishes to the bill of f are. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9898.

Small but charming, with whit e tablecloths and soft Chinese music, f amily-run Liu’ s gains our approval with fr esh, c ompetent c ookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ MANCHU W OK 7900 Shelb yville Rd. ( Oxmoor Shopping Center), 429-8207. $ NEW W ORLD BUFFET 92 2 8 W estport Rd., 42 31788. I rate this one of the city’ s best (if not quit e the bigges t) all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, not only because it offers a good selection of Chinese dishes but, mor e important, because it sho ws a consistent commitment to quality. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ORIENTAL EXPRES S 12 567 Shelb yville Rd., 2 449838. This spot in Middletown stands a cut above its shopping-center status in its atmospher e, and maybe two cuts abo ve the median in its f ood, a smorgasbord of both Chinese and Japanese f are that is good enough t o justify a special trip. $ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldes t continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark

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moves up a not ch under ne w o wners, f eaturing both tr aditional Chinese- American and no w, authentic Cantonese. $ p

operated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patr onage f or seventeen years. $

order, then sit back, sip y our t ea while the artis t creates edible delights. T his suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch ar ea.

This es tablishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $

YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800 . T his locally o wned and operated Oxmoor spot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing arr ay of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all o ver Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched b y sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f

ICHIBAN S AMURAI 1510 Lak e Shor e Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This lar ge Japanese-f armhouse building housed Benihana f or man y y ears. Ne w management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional slic eand-dice f ood sho w and good sushi. Bes t deal, while the off er lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p

YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $

KOBE S TEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is dr awing crowds with its e xceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p

PANDA CHINESE RES TAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $ PEKING CITY 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. The regular menu f eatures Chinese-r estaurant standards. If y ou have a y en for the e xotic, see if you can get the authentic T aiwanese menu—an intriguing r egional cuisine ne w t o L ouisville, but not always offered to non-Chinese. $

YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $

QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-042 8, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 4 918228. $ SESAME CHINESE RES TAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not jus t another shopping-c enter Chinese r estaurant, this Eas t End eat ery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y f avorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the t est of time, Sichuan G arden offers high-end Chinat own style and w ell-made dishes, plus a f ew T hai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $ WOK EXPRES S 2 34 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $ WONTON EXPRES S 3000 Hik es Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. F amily-owned-and-

SARI S ARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2 339 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-0585. L ourdes, the f ormer da y chef at El Mundo, and Pet e Chamberlain, El Mundo’ s founder, have split from the popular Mexican spot to open the city’s sole Filipino eatery on the same block of Fr ankfort, in the tin y s torefront briefly occupied b y Lazy Jane’ s. Y ou can sample y our way through the bold tropical flavors of this island cuisine on a budget, as e verything in the menu is well under $10. $

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 2 17 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding int ernational flair t o its do wntown neighborhood, Bendo ya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront jus t acr oss the street from the courthouse. $ FUJI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurs t Blvd., 339-1978, 12 905 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-00 36.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get t o w atch the chef at w ork. P ut in y our

Hibachi Grill

MIDDLETOWN 12905 Shelbyville Road 253-0036

MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not jus t another sushi bar , c ool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s firs t and only “izakaya”-style r estaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the r egion surr ounding Japan’ s sec ond city , Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados sa y it ’s los t a s tep sinc e the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 .

Raw mak es good use of hip quart ers in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners ma y choose fr om a br oad selection of c ompetent sushi and Japanese f air, plus fine int ernational seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e SAKURA BL UE 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St.

Sushi Bar

COME EXPERIENCE THE BEST SUSHI IN TOWN!

SPRINGHURST 3576 Springhurst Blvd. 339-1978 Over 50 Different Special Rolls Specials Changed Weekly

All Fish Flown in Fresh Daily

Dinner and a Show! a Romantic or Family Fun Experience.

Steak • Seafood • Sushi Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2 Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10 Fri-Sat 4:30-11 New! Sun Noon-9:30 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 75

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Matthews shopping c enter, Sak ura Blue—dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ SAPPORO J APANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. T rendy, e ven glitzy , with har d-edged indus trial dec or—and mos t important, e xcellent f ood—Sapporo r anks in m y ratings as the city’ s No . 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p SHOGUN J APANESE S TEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-5700, 4 110 Hampt on Lak e Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality f ood and servic e mak e it a pleasant dining des tination. It ’s unthr eatening enough t o appeal t o those who find e xotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339- 7171. It ’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serv es excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ TRAN JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 94 1-02 00. Southern Indiana is catching up with the L ouisville side of the Ohio in its selection of Japanese r estaurants, and Tran offers yet another estimable Hoosier option. Tran permits the mor e adv enturous diner t o e xperiment with the jo ys of sushi, while mor e cautious eaters can s tick with t empura or enjo y the slic eand-dice show at the Japanese grill. $$

KIM’S A SIAN GRILLE 813 E. Mark et St., 595- 702 5.

This lo vable little K orean and P an-Asian eat ery occupies unimposing quart ers on a gritty urban

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block eas t of do wntown. Despit e its do wnscale look, y ou w on’t w ant t o mis s its e xtensive selection of K orean and Japanese f avorites. Hot and sour soup may be the city’s best. $$ f KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s f ew r estaurants de voted entir ely t o authentic Korean fare, Koreana is w orth a special trip f or this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. T his little spot has been a secr et sinc e the ’70s, and it jus t k eeps on going. W alk int o what looks lik e a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter t o the back r oom, wher e y ou’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$

MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eat ery t o beat among the metr o ar ea’s T hai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it ’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (St ony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai off ers L ouisville an upscale T hai alt ernative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and c ertainly the mos t upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed int o a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Sno w and her f amily off er a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $

THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana. T he “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared T hai f are. Don’t ask f or the fiv e-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . T he owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangk ok before moving t o L ouisville, and his e xperience sho ws.

The w armth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 36 3-4847. Annie Café r anks not jus t as one of m y f avorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when v alue and pric e are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ CAFÉ MIMOS A 12 16 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back t o the ‘80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management s till offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as w ell as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-7110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ VIETNAM KIT CHEN 5339 Mitscher A ve., 36 3-5154.

This little South End s torefront is w ell w orth seeking out. T he chef goes be yond the or dinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden pas ses this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-c enter s torefront has bec ome a popular aft er-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing c ommunity of immigr ants fr om Bosnia, for whom it ’s a c omfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ DJULI 5312 S. T hird St., 368-5199 . Bosnian f are is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 4 99-882 2 . F or a city with a s trong German heritage, L ouisville is w oefully short on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel f amily c omes s traight fr om Ba varia t o Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. T he setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$ 76 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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BRENDAN’S 392 1 Shelb yville Rd., 895- 12 12 . T alk about a clean-up job , it mus t ha ve tak en a firehose t o get the s tale beer smell out of the venerable Maier ’s T avern in St. Matthe ws. Ne w owners T om O’Shea (also of Flannigan’ s and O’Shea’s in the Highlands) has done a great job of yupping up this Eas t End landmark with a ne w, upscale feel, classy pub grub and beer. $$ p e IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful plac e for a tall glas s of Guinnes s, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MAL ONE’S 933 Baxt er A ve., 4 73-12 2 2 . A carefully c onstructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxt er Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an as sortment of beers ma y be tr aditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub, from the chees y fries t o the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-ac cented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

ALLEY CATS 962 Baxter Ave., 561-1002. You’ve got to be bold t o open a pizz eria in a neighborhood that has a half-do zen of ’em already, but the ne w Alley Cats bos ts a s trong heritage , its o wners having f ormerly run the e xcellent Brick Ov en in Plainview. This new spot’s late-night hours make it a natur al gathering plac e f or the Baxt er entertainment zone. $ p f

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FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 y ears, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmospher e, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “T hey do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LENTINI’S 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-3020. Lentini’s has gone thr ough se veral o wners in r ecent y ears. T he ’50s-style Italian-American red-velvet decor doesn’t appear t o ha ve significantly changed in a halfcentury, but this incarnation is not nearly as good as previous ones. $$ p f LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled Ne w Y ork City -style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on jus t about e very s treet c orner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. T he American-ac cented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it ’s good, featuring a short but div erse selection of hearty pas tas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Mark et St., 540-99 75. Adjacent t o the locally o wned and oper ated Felice Vineyards on Eas t Mark et, Melillo’ s off ers hearty and delicious home-s tyle Italian- American f are—and you can enjoy it with a glas s of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of this national firm. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p THE OLIVE GARDEN 132 0 Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 3397190. T he t op pr operty of the Orlando-based Darden chain, Oliv e G arden no w oper ates mor e than 500 pr operties and bills itself as the leading

Italian r estaurant in the casual dining indus try.

Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauc es, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p PESTO’S IT ALIAN RES TAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offic es f or blocks ar ound empty int o this bus tling Italian eat ery f or w eekday lunches featuring hearty platt ers of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Satur days, the kit chen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e t o see and be seen—and, while y ou’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Mark et St., 583- 1808. R estaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant sc ene sinc e the 19 70s, and his mos t recent effort may be his bes t yet. Primo takes his Allo Spiedo c oncept and mo ves it upscale , with well-crafted Italian specialties fr om pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, served with panache in sleek new quarters. $$$ p RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-55 75. Old-f ashioned Italian- American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that ’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 - 3844, 10 2 06 W estport Rd., 339-0808. Now with a second location in Louisville, this longtime Southern Indiana f avorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choic e of ItalianAmerican entrées, with a great view of the city from its riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MA CARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-9 2 2 0. T he Italian-s tyle menu at this

AMECHE 316 Ormsb y A ve., T his his tory-steeped redbrick Old L ouisville building is t oo pr etty t o stay v acant f or long. F ollowing the closing of Central P ark Café and 316 Ormsb y, Shar on and Scott Risinger, owners of T hird Avenue Café and BBC on F ourth, hope the thir d time’ s a charm.

They plan t o open a casual Italian eat ery with a ’60s-style red-checked-tablecloth feel.

ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 32 6-5555. Y ou don’t ha ve t o be an Italian gr andfather t o pla y bocce, now that ther e are several venues around town f or this amiable game . T he six -court suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by sportscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eat ery, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant dec or of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412 -2 2 18. Carr abba’s isn’t y our or dinary suburban shopping-center fr anchise eat ery. T his plac e dramatically e xceeds e xpectations. Fr om w armed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 85- 1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pr etty much lik e an y other neighborhood saloon. But unlik e mos t L ouisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 77

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casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Out er L oop, 96 9-5545, 2 669 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9445400. Bak ed pas ta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ STEVE-O’S IT ALIAN KIT CHEN 42 05 W . HW Y 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. $ STRATTO’S 318 W. L ewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 945- 3496. Sam Anderson—kno wn t o locals from his Sam’s Food & Spirits—offers a full dinner menu with ac cents from all Italy’ s regions, plus a good wine list to match. With summer coming on, Stratto’s e xpanded 140-seat patio should be a popular place. $$ p f VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatr a, pas ta with t omato sauc e and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a not ch. Initially the L ouisville outpost of a Chicago Italian eat ery, it ’s no w locally o wned and oper ated, and seems t o be hitting its s tride with a br oad r ange of Italian dishes and vino , sua ve servic e and a luxurious but comfortable setting. $$$ p f WILLIE’S ITALIAN 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955.

From C entral Spain, authentic Cas tilian f ood ranging from tapas t o a memor able paella mak e this Highlands s tandby a unique e xperience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$ LA BODEGA 1604 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955. Ne xtdoor t o the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega off ers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-s tyle tapas bar , f eaturing the

India Palace Fine Indian Cuisine You’ll feel as if you have stepped into the exotic Far East.

Enjoy Tandoori (Bar-B-Q) Chicken, Lamb, Seafood...Curries, Rice, Freshly Baked Breads and more.

All you can eat Daily Luncheon Buffet Extensive A’la Cart Dinner Menu Cater for Parties Lunch: Mon. – Sat. 11:00a–2:30p Sunday 12:00p–3:00p Dinner: Mon. – Thur. 5:00p–10:00p Fri. and Sat. 5:00p–10:30p Sunday 5:00p–9:00p

9424 Shelbyville Road Louisville, KY 40222 (502) 394-0490 www.indiapalaceky.com 78 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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small bites originally invented in the out door cafés of Jerez. $$ p f PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine .

Steaks sear ed on authentic parrillada char coal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s e xcellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f

Highland’s building off ers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biry ani in immediat e juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-s tyle, jus t about 24/7. $ p f GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-1774. Y et another Middle Eas tern eat ery, y et another good ine xpensive sour ce of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown R oad and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. T he expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good v alue. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8765. One of the city’ s mos t popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian f are. $$ f SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 93-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full r ange of dinner items, it has built a lo yal clientele. $ p

AL WATA N 3713 Klondik e Ln., 454-4406. Clas sic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a des tination f or lo vers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8694. T he latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant

PITA DELIGHT S 1616 Grins tead Dr ., 56 9-112 2 .

Recently r esurrected in its thir d location, the former home of P apillon Bosnian, this Near Eastern eat ery off ers a s tandard mix of gyr os, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f SAFFRON’S 131 W . Mark et St., 584- 7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant f ar be yond a mer e ethnic eat ery.

Stylish dec or, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a level of car eful, pr ofessional servic e w orthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. Saffron’s has added a satellite operation, SAFFRON’S BUFFET, 558 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8679, where you can enjo y Persian delicacies on a quick, aff ordable all- you-can-eat lunch-only buffet. $$$ p SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. F ourth St., 585-112 5. You can get s tandard American f are at this w elcoming do wntown quick -eats spot, but who’d do that when y ou can enjo y such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2018 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8854. Almos t hidden in a r ow of undersize fr ame huts along L ower Br ownsboro just west of Clifton, this six-table spot offers some of the mos t authentic Persian (Ir anian) c ooking you’ll find an ywhere, including char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and cracker-like lavash bread. $

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CAJUN KITCHEN 4645 Outer Loop, 964-5200. $ CRAWDADDY’S CAFÉ 12 07 E. Mark et St., Jeffersonville, IN., 282-6561. Cajun favorites “with a twis t” ar e pr omised at this Southern Indiana spot. T he chef , a v eteran of Simpson ville’s Old Stone Inn, should bring the culinary e xpertise needed to make this new entry a winner. $$ f

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creative r enditions of Me xican r egional specialties that mak e mos t diners w ant t o y ell “Olé!” T he setting ma y lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f EL NOP AL 9473 W estport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7. As sociated with the same f amily that runs the smaller El Nopalito, ( or “ the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) off ers similar delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in somewhat larger and more comfortable surroundings. $ p f

GUMBO A GO-GO 2 109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046.

This small eat ery that sits w ell back fr om Frankfort Ave. gained a sparkling new personality that outguns a c ouple of lacklus ter predecessors in the spac e. Casually inf ormal and v ery affordable, with all dishes pric ed at $5. W e’re talking about serious L ouisiana Creole and Cajun cookery, dispensed with a friendly Ne w Orleans accent amid downscale Mardi Gras colors. $ f

EL NOP ALITO 402 8 T aylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-42 49, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 89 3-9880. T his modes t little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find c omidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a f amily from Mexico, it ’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f

JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320, 4308 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9482 080. Fine , filling and authentic L ouisiana-style fare is the dr aw at Joe’ s. A length y menu and bayou fishing-shack dec or sho wcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hik es Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ f

EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL T ARASCO 542 5 Ne w Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run b y Latinos and off ering authentic Me xican f ood and atmospher e, but that r each out t o Anglos and mak e it eas y t o enjoy a South-of-the-Bor der culinary adv enture without compromise. $ EL TORO RESTAURANTE MEXICANO 1810 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. $ p f ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 89 3-92 97, 77 07 Pr eston Hw y., 962 -5380, 46 32 A S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 7 00 Riverside Dr ., Clarks ville, IN, 2 80-00 32 . One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally -owned Mexican r estaurant gr oups, Ernes to’s r emains consistently reliable. From the crisp y home-fried chips t o filling Me xican main c ourses and tas ty desserts, it ’s a w orthy des tination f or good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e

BAHAMA BREEZE 104 Oxmoor C ourt, 423-9040.

It’s a long w ay fr om Oxmoor C enter t o the Florida K eys, but this chain-oper ated eat ery does a good job of bridging the gap , offering a happy beach-joint experience without the ocean view. Bahama Breeze is stylish and upscale, with a good selection of island f are and a gr eat bar. $$ p f e HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Ha vana. Hos ts F ernando & Chris tina Martinez and Mar cos L orenzo pr eside o ver this bright, in viting Cuban r estaurant, r ecently renovated t o double its dining spac e and add a hopping mojit o bar. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami have earned Ha vana Rumba a plac e on m y short list of local f avorites. No w with an e xpanded menu, there is even more to love. $ p f TASTE OF J AMAICA 2 017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner Warren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine t o a city t oo long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Baz o’s Fr esh Me xican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f CANCUN MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e DON PABLOS MEXICAN KIT CHEN 940 E. L ewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Born in North Texas and no w based in A tlanta, this Me xicanAmerican chain, off ers full bar servic e and a variety of dishes that r ange fr om sizzling f ajitas with portabello mushr oom, beef or chick en t o crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hw y., 96 9-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr ., 4 73-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 515 E. High way 131, Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has f ostered a happ y tr end: e xcellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2 345 Fr ankfort A ve., 899-99 30. T his crowded, noisy little Cr escent Hill s torefront offers www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 79

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FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL Dr., 425-9144. $ p

1132 0 Maple Br ook

HABANEROS 1415 Br oadway, Clarks ville, IN, 2 808555. $ p f e JALAPEÑO’S 4430 Dixie Hw y., 448-56 78. Owned and operated by folks of Mexican heritage, its fare and its flair mak e it c omfortable f or w ary “gringos” in sear ch of a mello w Mar garita and mild, familiar Mexican food. $$ p e

LOS AZTECAS “The Best Mexican Food & Margaritas in Louisville” 530 WEST MAIN

502.561.8535 Mon.-Thur. 11am-10pm • Fri. 11am-11pm Sat. Noon-11pm • Sun. Noon-9pm

www.losaztecas.net

CLUB SALSA Saturday – 10:30pm-4am 530 W. Main St. – 2nd Floor Los Aztecas Mexican Restaurant 502.561.8535

JUAN’S MEXICAN RES TAURANT 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-2827. $ p KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be L ouisville’s mos t s tartling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ LA HERRADURA 615 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible t o enjo y truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English? These friendly f olks mak e it simple: a handy bi-lingual menu and a smiling staff make you feel at home.$ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 2535 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-0401, 1515 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944- 362 0. One of m y f avorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. Offering indoor and out door seating t o enjo y a short, affordable menu of firs t-rate Puebla-s tyle tac os and other excellent Mexican dishes. $ f LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p

Authentic Mexican Cuisine

LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the f ood is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e int o a r eal bargain. $ f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6- 3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U .S. Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. A uthentic Mexican cuisine has bec ome a viable option in L ouisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, cr eative appetizers and c omfortable seating, L os Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 1-9770, 7 30 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 23-2929.

“Why ha ve T ex-Mex when y ou can ha ve Me xMex?” is asked in fun on the serv ers’ T-shirts. This eatery is w ell worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p

459-7776 2427 Bardstown Road (across from Kroger)

Mon.-Tue. 11am-10pm N Wed.-Thur. 11am-11pm Fri. 11am-Midn. N Sat. Noon-Midn. N Sun. Noon-9pm

80 Spring 2006 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

MARIMBA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 721-7200. At first glance, Marimba looks a lot like a lot of the other authentic Me xican eateries that ha ve been cr opping up all o ver t own. But this ne w entry in the Moorish-looking building that r ecently housed Mahar ajah Indian ma y be just a cut abo ve much of its c ompetition. T he expansive Me xican lunch buff et is a particularly good deal. $ p MAYAN GYPSY 624 E. Market St., 583-3300. It may have evolved from a mobile tac o van, but Bruc e Ucán’s high-s tyle Y ucatan and tr opical Me xican cooking shows his cr eative genius in the kit chen: subtle and c omplex, sometimes spicy but ne ver

fiery, it is fully competitive in quality with the city’s best restaurants. $$$ f MEXICAN FIESTA 5414 Bardstown Rd., 762-0840. $ MEXICO TIPIC O RES TAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s firs t authentic Me xican eat eries, Mexico T ipico has built a lo yal f ollowing in f or good Me xican f ood and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e PUERTO V ALLARTA 42 14 Charles town Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 945- 3588, 12 5 Quart ermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 9 70 Br eckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 860 2 Citadel W ay, 4 93-9606, 430 2 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 94 1-9654. T his chain operation boasts five local outlets plus more in L exington and Fr ankfort. F ast-foodish in s tyle, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks lik e another tac queria but the specialty, Me xican-style r oasted chick en, tak es it to another le vel, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden br own. Chick en simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. T hird St., 6 34-3722. This tiny eat ery in a c entury-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Do wns ne ver f ails t o satisfy with genuine Me xican tac os and other simple fare at pric es that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SOL AZTECA S 2 42 7 Bar dstown R oad, 459- 7776.

Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of L os Aztecas eateries and the short-liv ed Olmeca’s, brings his br and of authentic Me xican fare t o the Douglas s L oop quart ers that previously housed Steam Fire and Ice. Fans of Los Aztecas will find f amiliar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Pr eston Hw y., 969-4449. T he tac os ar e fine at this tin y storefront, ne xt door t o a Latino gr ocery s tore.

This is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thoroughly w elcome, the s taff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ TEQUILA MEXICAN RES TAURANT 7803 Old T hird Street Rd., 368-3591. $

ALAMEDA 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 459-6 300. A fter a brief s tint as Me zzaluna T uscan Grill, Alameda has returned. The familiar Southwestern favorites are back, and so is the casual feel, complete with attractive renovations. $ p f MOE’S SOUTHWES T GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 89 3-6637, 12001 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6250. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border f are, but it is fr eshly made from quality ingr edients and c omes in o versize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer P ark Dr., 412-2461.

A c ontemporary spin on tr aditional f avorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to mar garitas in a setting that emulat es Old Mexico décor. $$ p f SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 2 85 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 89 7-532 3. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh

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Mexican” niche that f eatures gigantic burrit os made t o or der. Its c olorful fr ee-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p TIJUANA FLATS BURRITO CO. 2420 Lime Kiln Ln. , 412 -6700, 3598 Springhurs t Blv d., 339-2 311.

Another entry in the growing niche of “fast casual Tex-Mex” eat eries, specializing in burrit os made from fresh ingredients while you wait. $$ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (19 locations ).

Tumbleweed, which s tarted as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Alban y, e ventually came t o dominate L ouisville’s Tex-Mex niche with c olossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and spicy chili c on queso. But what s tarted as a sideline , mesquit e grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main dr aw. T hese da ys, diners ar e mor e lik ely t o dig into a perfectly grilled steak and baked potato as int o a burrit o. W ith its ne w South west f ocus, large and v aried menu and added wine lis t, “T he Weed” still has diners returning in droves. $$ p f

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 6 37-5399. $ BEAN STREET CAFÉ IUS Campus Library, 941-2699, Floyd Memorial Hospital, 94 9-7188, 101 Laf ollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 300 3 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-6262. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just eateries, but cultural hangouts. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f CLEO’S C OFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ CLOSE-KNIT CAFÉ 311 Wallace Ave., 894-3333. $ f COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633, 13825 English Villa Dr., 254-7040. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f DAY’S ESPRES SO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170. Dark and c ozy, with an old-fashioned f eeling, Da y’s has e verything y ou would e xpect in a c ollege-neighborhood c offee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $ EXPRESSIONS OF Y OU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 8995551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0 380, 118 Cheno weth Ln., 89 3-5103.

Spartan, friendly and aff ordable, with good c offee roasted on the premises and a short lis t of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND C OFFEE C O. 1140 Bar dstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Off ering tw o ways t o get wir ed, this c ozy neighborhood c offee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s t op Internet cafés, wher e y ou can enjo y a hot cappuccino while y ou surf the ‘net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING C O. 3700 P aoli Pik e, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. HobKnobb off ers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B US Hwy 42, 2922 710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-56 77, F ourth Str eet Liv e, 56 12 041, 2 309 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8060 . T hese casual spots boas ts the ambienc e of a friendly old-fashioned book shop , with c omfortable

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seating, a good selection of pas tries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f LOGOS C OFFEE HOUSE 2272. $ f

2 2 50 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-

MASTER’S INTERNA TIONAL C Bardstown Rd., 495-6484. $ f

OFFEE

4806

OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (22 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-RO ASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o r oast their o wn c offee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pr o—the result is Suner gos C offee, another in the gr owing cadre of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $

Call 452-1210

THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their busines s, this e xcellent es tablishment is part of the culinary pr ogram at Sulliv an University. A r ecent renovation adds a t ouch of European s tyle. T he deli option is no mor e, but you can’t beat the quality br eads and pas tries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 362 8 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 9219 US Hw y. 42, 228-8959 . Helen has enjo yed a local client ele f or y ears with elegant cak es, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426- 7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman f amily has been baking in the Louisville ar ea sinc e y our gr eat-aunt w as a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily , the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pas tries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nos talgic. Enjo y the homet own soda fountain with ic e cr eam while y ou w ait f or y our hand-decorated birthda y cak e, br eakfast r olls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1416 Bardstown Rd., 458-6363.

Some of the city’ s best desserts and pas tries are available at this first-rate pastry shop. They have a way with Belgian choc olate that e very s weet tooth should experience. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent c offee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot between Crescent Hill and St. Matthews. $

3100 Bardstown Road Louisville, KY 40205 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Spring 2006 81

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

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MAP • 6

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD.

MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

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11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

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MAP • 13

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SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

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louisville • 424 south 4th street located at 4th street live! phone: 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com

©2006 Hard Rock Cafe International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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