Spring 2008 (Vol. 20)

00_OBC_OFC_IFC_IBC_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:41 AM

Page 2

SPRING 2008

Profiles

corbett’s an american place seviche a latin bistro martini italian bistro

plus

900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

Libations

mint julep|coffee myths|more

chefs 10 courses

9 epicurean delight 1

www.foodanddine.com

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

00_OBC_OFC_IFC_IBC_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:42 AM

Page 3

01-03_Ads_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:44 AM

Page 1

01-03_Ads_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:44 AM

Page 2

01-03_Ads_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:44 AM

Page 3

Choose Your Dealership As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.

You’re Riding On Our Reputation!

The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region.

As the #1 used car dealer, Sam Swope is also The Used Car Authority with over 1,000 vehicles to choose from for immediate delivery. A Sam Swope Premier Pre-owned vehicle offers a quality automobile, at the right price, backed by an exclusive package of owner benefits including a 7 day exchange policy, warranty coverage up to 60 days, and complimentary Emergency Roadside Rescue. You can buy with confidence from a Sam Swope dealership.

Quality automobiles. Competitive prices. Outstanding service. Once you see all that the Sam Swope Auto Group has to offer you will understand why‌

Swope Discount AutoCenter I I-64 & S. Hurstbourne Parkway I Louisville, KY 40299

502-499-5000 I www.SamSwope.com

04-05_Contents_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:46 AM

Page 4

SPRING 2008 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS MARY W. JOHNSON MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS AARON ADAMS ANTHONY LORIE JOHN VARANESE CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING AMANDA SMITH IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine ® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

___________________________________

Annual Subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at

www.foodanddine.com For Advertising information call

(502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER Corbett’s maple panna cotta with cranberry compote, candied fig and blood orange gastrique.

(Feature story, page 32) 4

Spring 2008

www.foodanddine.com

Photo by Dan Dry

04-05_Contents_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:46 AM

contents

Page 5

SPRING 2008

FEATURES A gathering of Louisville’s world class chefs You do the math — ten of Louisville’s most celebrated chefs, nine courses, six top flight wines, equal one epicurean delight.

Profiles: Independents un-chain the East End

16 32

High-profile independent restaurants stake new claims in eastern Jefferson County, a region long dominated by corporate chains.

16

COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS The current quarter’s report on restaurant openings, closings, moves and other news on the local dining scene.

SIDE DISHES Noteworthy restaurant and culinary happenings.

HUMOR The online world is your oyster

26

Humor writer Jay Forman finds a two-pound bucket of duck fat — and much more — on the foodie Internet.

TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: Miami

8 11 14 30

Spring break may bring college kids to Florida’s beaches, but foodies flock to more sophisticated Miami, Ron Johnson reports.

LIQUIDS CORK 101: Recession-proof your wine rack

50

Amid fear of recession, the prices of fancy wines are going up.

Robin Garr offers buying tips for frugal wine lovers.

SPIRITS: Julep is what I mint The Mint Julep is so enshrined in local tradition that we capitalize its name. Here is mixologist Jerry Slater’s handy guide.

28

HIP HOPS: Where is my real beer?

Just about everything at the city’s top tables is stellar — but who forgot the beer list? Roger A. Baylor laments the lack of “real” beer.

COFFEE: Common coffee myths People hold some interesting misconceptions about coffee (and tea). Coffee expert David Lange clears up some of the myths.

RECIPES RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Varanese’s Asian BBQ duck breast

32

Chef John Varanese kicks up the humble duck with spicy-sweet Asian flavors that pop like firecrackers.

TOP CHEF RECIPES: Get fresh! Celebrating spring’s bounty Sullivan University chefs get fresh with us, offering four recipes that take advantage of the seasonal bounty of spring time.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

24 26 46 48 28 50 54

DINING GUIDE

Our updated, comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews. Now redesigned with more helpful, user-friendly features.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

82

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008

5

06-07_Ads_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:49 AM

Page 6

06-07_Ads_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:49 AM

Page 7

08-13_Come&Go_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:50 AM

Page 8

news and notes

comings

& goings

There’s plenty of nervous talk about recessionary times and a shrinking economy, but such bad tidings weren’t immediately evident on the Louisville dining scene during the past quarter. In the face of high gasoline prices and reports of diminishing consumer spending, Food & Dining recorded 25 restaurant openings during the past three months, and 11 more new properties opened by existing eateries or chains.

Only half that number closed their doors (although a few high-profile closings brought disappointment to fans of The Jazz Factory, Sweet Peas Southern and more).

Furthermore, in several of the closings, new owners or management moved in and continued operation without missing a day.

OPENINGS A familiar old Highlands landmark gained new life, and a new look, as restaurateur Jeff Jarfi opened his Jarfi’s Bistro — a reinvention of his popular dining room that had been in the Kentucky Center for the Arts — in the renovated quarters at 1543 Bardstown Road that had long housed Lentini’s.

Another new spot for upscle dining, Caffé Perusa, is open in Stony Brook at 9200 Taylorsville Road. Owner Rodulfo Pantoja presides over an expansive, upscale dining room with “American Continental” cuisine and an imposing wine list.

Another familiar name, Colonnade Café, banished from the Starks Building last year after many decades of popularity, opens anew on the fifth floor of the Louisville Antique Mall, 834 E. Broadway.

Oishii Sushi, a tiny but welcoming neighborhood sushi bar at 2245 Bardstown Road in the Highlands, run by former employees of Sapporo, is winning early applause for fine sushi in generous proportions.

Also on the ethnic front, Blue Nile Ethiopian restores spicy East African fare to the downtown area with a generous lunch buffet and menu in the former Manoosh’s, 558 S. Fifth Street.

Two large corporate chains arrived in the metro with popular new locations: B.J.’s Restaurant & Brew House adds carefully made craft beers and upscale-casual American fare at Oxmoor Center, 7900 Shelbyville Road; and BD’s Mongolian Grill brings another you-pick-it, they-stir-fry-it shtick to the East End at 1890 S. Hurstbourne Parkway.

Changes are happening on the Indiana side of the Ohio, where restaurateur Dave Himmel opens Market Street Fish House, 133 E. Market Street in New Albany; and Windsor 8

Spring 2008

www.foodanddine.com

Restaurant & Garden moves upscale dining into the former home of Bistro New Albany at 148 E. Market Street.

Charlestown Pizza Company has become the go-to place in Charlestown, Indiana, offering hand-made pizza and a first-rate beer list on the Town Square at 850 Main Street.

Another hot ticket, Taco Bueno, the first Louisville-area entry of a Texas-based chain, has been drawing crowds to its new quarters at 2909 Highway 62 in Jeffersonville.

More arrivals, listed alphabetically, on the Kentucky side of the river: Buffalo Wings & Rings, 2610 Chamberlain Lane; Cachito Mio Cuban Café, 11316 Maple Brook Road; Henry Clay Café, 300 W. Chestnut Street; Home Run Burgers & Fries, 2060 S. Hurstbourne Parkway; Mediterranean Shish Kabob, 1907 S. Fourth Street; Middletown Bagel & Deli, 12903 Shelbyville Road; River City Coffee Café, 2900 Brownsboro Road; Sammi Jo’s Sandwiches & More, 1496 S. Shelby Street; Small Times Bakery, 2956 Richland Avenue; and Village Maria II, 9415 Norton Commons Boulevard.

Other new entries in Southern Indiana are Beijing Grill and Sushi Bar, 8007 Highway 311 in Sellersburg, and My Bar, 3306 Plaza Drive in New Albany.

New locations added to existing restaurants or chains, in Louisville: Shiraz Mediterranean Grill, is a growing local mini-chain with new properties at 153 S. English Station Road and 201 N. Hurstbourne Parkway. Backyard Burgers adds a property at the intersection of Westport Road and the Gene Snyder Freeway; Heine Brothers Coffee at 1449 Bardstown Road and 4123 Shelbyville Road; Lonnie’s Best Taste of Chicago, 1034 Bardstown Road; and Shah’s Mongolian Grill, 423 E. Warnock Street.

08-13_Come&Go_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:50 AM

Page 9

Italiano Pistachio Magnifico!

Silver Medal Winner San Francisco World Spirits Competition

Defining the Flavor of Luxury

TM

Defining the Flavor of Luxury

TM

P R O D U C E D A N D B O T T L E D I N I TA LY • I M P O R T E D B Y B M K S P E C I A LT Y P R O D U C T S L L C • J E F F E R S O N V I L L E , I N D I A N A

DUMANTE.COM

08-13_Come&Go_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:50 AM

DESIGN / BUILD “From concept to reality.”

Page 10

Additions in Southern Indiana: A Nice Restaurant, 404 Lafollette Station South, Floyds Knobs; Bearno’s Pizza, Lafollette Station South, Floyds Knobs; and El Nopal continues its growth as a local mini-chain, taking over Los Indios restaurants at 2743 Charlestown Road and 730 Rolling Creek Drive in New Albany, and 730 Highlander Point in Floyds Knobs.

CLOSINGS

• • • •

Concept & Design Construction & Equipment Restaurant Real Estate & Brokerage

AVAILABLE PROPERTIES FOR SALE OR LEASE: Big Dave’s Outpost 1801 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY $1,375,000

Mom’s Music 2920 Frankfort Ave. Louisville, KY $499,000

Appleby’s Cafe & Wine Bar Wings To Go 201-207 Spring St. 4324 Charlestown Rd. Jeffersonville, IN New Albany, IN $740,000 $175,000 1811 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY $399,000

Sedona Grill 5223 Detroit Rd. Sheffield Village, OH $2,200,000

Joe’s OK Bayou 9874 Linn Station Rd. Louisville, KY $155,000

Tumbleweed 3780 West Broad St. Columbus, OH $599,000

Stricker’s Cafe 2781 Jefferson Ctr. Way Jeffersonville, IN $45,000

Rumors Grill & Bar 3110 Maple Leaf Dr. Lexington, KY $1,525,000

Joe’s OK Bayou 4308 Charlestown Rd. New Albany, IN $125,000

Kobe Steak House 1637 Midland Trail US 60 Shelbyville, KY $975,000

Ruben’s Mexican Grill & Bar 1370 Veterans Parkway Clarksville, IN $215,000

Houston D. Jones, Jr. 13121 Eastpoint Park Blvd.

Eastpoint Office Park, Suite 7G Louisville, KY 40243 502.419.7799 • 502.228.4908 Fax www.thehoustongroup.net Contact Houston for a confidential review of your needs.

houston@thehoustongroup.net 10 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

In a shocking loss to lovers of jazz and good food, The Jazz Factory has closed its doors. Sweet Peas Southern shuttered its operations at 2350 Frankfort Avenue, and Portland’s historic Tollbridge Inn is closed at 330 Northwestern Parkway.

Stratto’s no longer offers full restaurant services at 318 W. Lewis & Clark Parkway in the historic McCulloch Mansion in Clarksville but remains open for catered events by reservation.

Connor’s Place is closed at 207 E. Main Street in New Albany. In Louisville, say so long to Longino’s, 1506 Berry Boulevard, and Pizzeria Uno Chicago Grill, 6501 Bardstown Road.

Chains closing locations while others remain open include Hometown Buffet, 3710 Chamberlain Lane and 757 Lewis & Clark Parkway; Dooley’s, 300 W. Chestnut Street and 12903 Shelbyville Road, and Honey Baked Ham Café, 757 Lewis & Clark Parkway.

MOVES Old Stone Inn continues operating with the same name under new ownership at 6905 Shelbyville Road in Simpsonville.

Several eateries changed owners and names without a significant break in operations: Wigginton’s replaces Rick’s Ferrari Grill and adds a few steaks and other upscale menu items at 3930 Chenoweth Square; Brown Bag Deli & Pub took the former owner’s name off the sign at Nord’s Brown Bag, 2100 S. Preston Street; Gyros Café replaces Marrakesh at 1001 Bardstown Road, and Toni’s More Than Pizza replaces Vito’s Pizza at 3213 Preston Highway.

We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed. Send information by Email to publisher@foodanddine.com.

08-13_Come&Go_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:50 AM

Page 11

news and notes

side

dishes

FOOD & DINING NEWS Free Digital Magazine Subscription By early summer you can have Food & Dining Magazine delivered to your e-mail inbox. Our new e-edition is a dynamic online digital magazine that is an enhanced replica of our print publication. With one click of the mouse the cover opens to reveal a faithful representation of the magazine’s glossy, full-page interior, down to the shadowed hollow where the pages meet. Flip through to read articles across multiple pages, each one following the original layout. Alternatively, readers can choose among layout views, quickly locate to the table of contents and advertiser index in drop-down menus; search the text, and click hotlinks to websites. Best of all, you can get your digital magazine subscription FREE! Almost as good a deal is a subscription to the print edition of Food & Dining.

It’s just about free: Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll pay you back in full with $18 in local-restaurant gift certificates.

To see a free preview, go to the Food & Dining Website (www.foodanddine.com) then click on the image of the current edition’s cover.

Be sure to bookmark this site. Also coming this summer is a complete redesign of our website with lots more exciting content, including a fully searchable restaurant guide, recipe database, restaurant menus and a complete archive of the last five years of Food & Dining in digital magazine format.

Improved Restaurant Guide Meanwhile, as Food & Dining celebrates its fifth anniversary of publication this quarter, be sure to check out the improved restaurant guide in this edition.

Along with all of our exclusive features including reviews of more than 900 area restaurants and colorful locator maps,

you’ll find many new features including information on vegetarian restaurants, eateries that stay open late at night, and much more.

Food & Dining on Throwdown Two Food & Dining personalities have recently appeared as judges on Food Network’s popular program, “Throwdown with Bobby Flay.” Our humor columnist, New Orleans-based writer Jay Forman, was tapped to judge a gumbo competition.

Earlier, Editor in Chief and Restaurant Critic Robin Garr appeared on Throwdown, joining Oakroom Chef Todd Richards as judges in a Hot Brown Throwdown featuring brothers Joe Castro and John Castro.

Both Throwdowns appear frequently in reruns. Check program listings or go to www.foodnetwork.com online for details.

F&D Humor writer, Jay Forman — maintaining his anonymity.

Bobby Flay does the Derby Speaking of Bobby Flay, the popular Food Network personality and chef of Mesa Grill in New York City and Las Vegas, we’ll be seeing a lot of him around Derby time. Flay has signed on as “celebrity host” of a Kentucky Derby Par ty feature on the Churchill Downs Website. Go to www.kentuckyderby.com/party for Flay’s hints and tips on Derby entertaining with invitations, recipes, décor themes and party supplies. Want to get in on the Derby Day fun with free games and bet the races? This Website will show you how to pick and play Kentucky Derby horses right from your party.

AWARDS AND HONORS Winston’s wins “Distinction in Dining” Honor Another noteworthy award to a Louisville restaurant went to Winston’s, the upscale restaurant at Sullivan University, which received the “2008 DiRoNA Achivement of Distinction in Dining” award from The Distinguished Restaurants of North America (DiRoNA).

Boombozz Pizza Scores Again After reviewing dozens of candidates — not to mention sampling countless slices of pizza — the editors of Pizza Marketplace magazine have named Tony Palombino, the owner and namesake of Louisville’s Tony Boombozz restaurants, its 2008 Independent Operator of the Year.

He received the award in February at the Nor th American Pizza and Ice Cream Show in Columbus, Ohio. Palombino’s restaurants did a combined $2.6 million in sales last year, and comparable-store sales increased 7 percent, Pizza Marketplace repor ted. A new fast-casual concept he developed was a resounding success, and www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008

11

08-13_Come&Go_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:50 AM

Page 12

Palombino recently launched a full-service version of his gourmet pizzeria.

Buffalo Trace named Distillery of the Year Buffalo Trace Distillery near Frankfort (formerly Ancient Age) has been named 2008 “Distillery of the Year” at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, making it the first American distillery to win the award. Among many individual awards, its Pappy Van Winkle 20-year-old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey was awarded Best Bourbon, Double Gold Medal at the San Francisco event. Buffalo Trace has won more than 170 awards for its wide range of premium whiskies.

For more information on Buffalo Trace Distillery, visit www.buffalotrace.com.

Speaking of Whiskey Two prominent regional distillery figures are marking the ends of long careers.

Jack Daniel’s Master Distiller, Jimmy Bedford, will retire after 40 years making whiskey; and Maker’s Mark Master Distiller, David Pickerell, is stepping down afer 14 years.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR Taste of Jeffersonville The Eighth Annual Taste of Jeffersonville will be May 15 from 6 to 10 p.m. at Kye’s I and II, 500 Missouri Avenue in Water Tower Square, just north of the Clark Memorial Bridge in Jeffersonville.

Sample some of the area’s tastiest selections from local favorite restaurants and caterers. Event proceeds benefit community projects. Tickets will be available at the door and at Schimpff ’s Confectionery, Choices and the Jeffersonville Mayor’s Office. For more information call (812) 285-6400.

What’s Your Beef?

Who grills the best steak? Who grills the best hamburger? These and other titles will be on the line during the Kentucky’s Fort Harrod Beef Festival, June 5-8, at the Mercer County Fairgrounds, Old Fort Harrod State Park and other sites around Harrodsburg, Kentucky. The Fort Harrod Beef Festival promises a fun, exciting and educational weekend full of activities, including concerts, grill-offs, beef education, a beef and bourbon tasting, juried arts and crafts, a car show, 5K race, steak and eggs breakfast, art display, live entertainment, festival food, children’s activities and much 12 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

more. Be sure to stop and say hello to Food & Dining Publisher John Carlos White, who’ll be a judge. More information online: www.fortharrodbeeffestival.org.

Big Burger Marks Milestone Celebrating its 50th anniversary (1958 to 2008), O’Shea’s Irish Pub is building one humongous burger. How big? We’re talking about a 50-ounce beef burger with a full half-pound of bacon. It also comes with a pound of fries. Eat it all in one sitting, if you dare, and get a free T-shirt.That not enough for you? See if you can chug the 160-ounce Paddy Punch Bowl, made with seven kinds of rum, peach schnapps and more.

Two Dozen Sliders, One Big White Castle From the world’s biggest burger, we turn to some of the smallest: Based on published nutritional information, we estimate that it would take approximately two dozen sliders to equal just one O’Shea’s burger. But if size matters, you’ll be pleased to know that you can get the tiniest burgers from the world’s largest White Castle restaurant right here in downtown Louisville.

The new “super-sized” eatery, largest in the company’s 11-state system, opened in February at 105 East Market Street, replacing an older facility there. Although the white building with its familiar tower is large by W.C. standards, it’s not exactly a monolith: Measuring 38 feet by 81 feet, it’s 20 percent larger than its predecessor and seats, um, 78.

White Castle has been operating continually in Louisville since 1927 when the first Castle opened at Sixth and Broadway, the company says. There are currently 15 White Castles in the Louisville area. F&D

S U B S C R I B E TO FOOD & DINING Can’t wait to see what’s in the next issue of Food & Dining? Why not subscribe? Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll give you four quarterly editions and pay you back in full with $18 in local-restaurant gift certificates.

Better still, take two years for $26, we’ll send you eight issues and send you $36 worth of gift certificates.

Subscribe online at: www.foodanddine .com

08-13_Come&Go_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:50 AM

Page 13

14-15_Humor_spr08.qxp

humor

4/21/08

8:51 AM

Page 14

BY JAY FORMAN

e n i l on The

World

v

D

Did you know that a two-pound bucket of duck fat is only $12.50 at Hudson Valley Foie Gras’s online store? I didn’t either, but I do now. And so does my wife, who regrets buying me that gift certificate. And this is just one of the millions of things I did not need to know about that are available for sale 24 hours a day, seven days a week. I used to think that might be trouble. Then I had French fries fried in duck fat and once you’ve had duck fat, you never go back; it makes pork fat taste like Canola oil. So scratch that; I know I’m in trouble.

The Internet has dissolved the boundaries that once kept such heady indulgences safely isolated from one another. Black truffles were stashed in the Périgord region of France, and Dungeness crabs scuttled about off the West Coast of the U.S., and never the twain did meet.

Now these two ingredients have been combined at an upscale restaurant where I live, forming an appetizer of apocalyptic cost and deliciousness.

Just as too much Uranium-235 heaped into a pile goes critical, we are experiencing a cascading nuclear chain reaction of forbidden delights. We cannot put this genie back in the bottle. But you know what? I don’t want to. In the words of Tom Wolfe’s test pilots from The Right Stuff, let’s kick the tire and light the fire. Personally, I’m gonna strap myself in and enjoy the ride.

I live in New Orleans, which is a pretty food-crazy town, yet I still cannot find fresh foie gras in the markets here. But online I can easily purchase the unctuous treat by the kilo. Such delicacies don’t come cheap, though. The food cost for this item balloons faster than the duck’s liver once you start adding up taxes and overnight shipping. But still, it is there if I want it, and the exclusivity makes me want it even more.

14 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

is Your Oyster

And don’t get me started on caviar (www.gourmetfoodstore.com).When I was a kid, I remember sporting goods stores selling salmon roe for bait. Now instead of putting it on a hook, I put the same stuff on a blini with some capers and call it a canapé. How times have changed.

Of course, nobody orders “ordinary” food things online. People log on to splurge, not to restock. I’m not quite sure why this is, but the economies of brick-and-mor tar stores seem to be different than the economies online. I’ll wince at buying an eight-ounce bottle of balsamic vinegar at Whole Foods for the price of a six-pack of Budweiser, but online I’ll buy two ounces of real balsamic from Italy that costs more than a bottle of premier cru Bordeaux. Is it worth it? To me, yes. It isn’t really like vinegar at all; it can be sipped neat like a cordial. Which, traditionally, it often is. The taste of real balsamic has an incredible sweetness, complexity and richness to it, with echoes of port and raisins and a long, vibrant finish that seems to last longer than the actual meal. And now I know this because I found it online.

Along with all the various and sundry accessories, there are lots of primary proteins for sale as well. At www.exoticmeats.com there are lots to choose from. Black bear? Python? Ostrich? If you just can’t make up your mind, try the “Tailgater Sampler Pack,” which includes two pounds of yak patties, some ground llama, and some kangaroo sausage thrown in to sweeten the deal.

Nothing says tailgating like yak-burgers. I think there is something about that in the U.S. Constitution. Of course, there are those who would cringe at broiling up a llama. And I will grant you that they are pretty cute. Maybe not alpaca-cute, but still pretty damn cute. Hmmm … I must draw the line somewhere. I wouldn’t order the llama. Don’t order the llama. You’ll just hate yourself in the morning.

14-15_Humor_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:51 AM

Page 15

If buying things online is far too easy, some of the cooking advice one comes across should be taken with a grain of salt.

Mining the depths of the chat rooms and blogs reveals some interesting shortcuts that might cause grievous bodily harm.

Take dulce de leche, the caramel-like sauce made from condensed milk, popularly featured in Latin desserts. Lots of people online say that to make this at home you can simply boil an unopened can of condensed milk in a pot of water for a couple of hours on your stovetop.

Now, whether this is a good idea remains a matter of some debate. Common sense would dictate that boiling unopened cans for three hours is a no-no. In fact, the can companies are pretty adamant on this point. But chat room denizens claim that it is standard practice and have done it “dozens” of times without the cans exploding like caramelly hand grenades, peppering the kitchen ceiling and walls with gooey, delicious shrapnel. But then, my wife says this works, and she is a pastry chef. So would I do it? Yeah, I guess so, though I’ll watch TV in the bedroom under a lead blanket while the can simmers on the stove. I can however state with conviction that microwaving unopened cans is not a good idea.

Perhaps a spectator position is a safer one to take. In this capacity, surfers might enjoy Black Widow Bakery’s web-famous “meat cake,” a three-layer meatloaf groom’s cake frosted with creamy mashed potatoes and finished on top with a ketchup glaze and the piped outline of a T-Bone. Stepby-step instructions are included for those who wish to recreate such masterpieces.

Not me. I’ll be busy perfecting my savory truffled cornmeal fritters deep-fried in molten duck fat. F&D Hudson Valley Foie Gras www.hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com Caviars www.gourmetfoodstore.com Exotic Meats www.exoticmeats.com/catdescmain .aspx?f=37 Black Widow Bakery www.blackwidowbakery.com/demo/ meatcake www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 15

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:53 AM

people and places

Page 16

BY MARY JOHNSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

10 chefs 9 courses one

Epicurean Delight

16 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:53 AM

Page 17

A cause to gather You will often hear the term “Louisville’s restaurant community.” There’s no better way to describe the atmosphere that existed on March 9 at Corbett’s ‘an American place,’ where 10 of Louisville’s top chefs assembled in one kitchen to build “Dining for Dan,” an event that may rank as the most remarkable meal in the city’s restaurant history.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 17

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:53 AM

Page 18

W

“When we walked in the door, we were greeted by a woman from Sysco. And then, just a few minutes later, a server brought us a glass of wine — her jacket said ‘Rivue,’ ” said Jay Mazzoni, who attended the $150-a-plate event with his wife Karen. “It was that way all evening.” People from many different restaurants, the area’s top chefs — competitors on any other night — working together to create an unparalleled evening of dining.

The chefs joined with servers, bussers and service personnel from the area’s food service industry, suppliers and distributors, coming together on a magical evening for a fundraising benefit — an evening of dining and camaraderie that brought over $12,000 into the Daniel F. Boyle Memorial Fund, for the family of Danny Boyle, former Vice President of Food & Dining magazine, who passed away suddenly last October.

The chefs: John Castro, Michael Crouch, Jay Denham, Chris Howerton, Anthony Lamas, Fernando Martinez, Todd Richards, Allan Rosenberg, Anoosh Shariat and Nick Sullivan.

The supporting cast included, from Corbett’s ‘an American place’ staff, Troy Ritchie, Carrie Crouch, Kevin Rice and Cesar Perez-Ribas; also, local chefs Duane Nutter, Rafael Hernandez, Cristina Martinez; and a cadre of Louisville-area servers including Robin Bernsen, Michelle Cooper, Becky Dyer, Tina Hardison, Shelly Hernandez, John Irk, Kenny Munday, Mike Nichols, Melanie Silbernik, Andrea Thorton, and Jacqui Van Ham. “Flawlessly pulling off a nine-course meal in a restaurant they had never worked in is a true sign of a pro,” said John White, publisher of Food & Dining magazine, who conceived and organized the event.

The nine-course meal: Peruvian striped bass seviche from Chef Anthony Lamas of Seviche. Pan seared diver scallops with smoked bacon truffled shrimp sauce and a butter poached lobster claw from Chef Michael Crouch of Bourbons Bistro. Mason-Dixon Line cornbread hushpuppy with a pipette of pot liquor, a crawfish and andouille-madeleine from The Oak Room’s Todd Richards. Chef Anoosh Shariat bringing on a vegetarian four th course: an ancho roasted sweet potato with baby spinach, followed with a fifth course palate-cleanser, a chili sorghum sorbet created by Chef John Castro of Winston’s.

Onward: Seviche chef Allan Rosenberg with sopes with roasted pork shoulder, guajillo chili sauce and pickled red onions. Chef Jay Denham of Park Place, bringing diners a course of chocolate chili bison short rib, grit cake and Kentucky grass-fed beef strip sirloin with Kentucky mushrooms, sweetbreads and Madeira sauce.

Then a Spanish goat cheese flan from Chef Fernando Martinez of Mojito — a course fondly remembered by a number of the evening’s diners — and, finally, Corbett’s chefs Chris Howerton and Nick Sullivan, with mignardises — little after-dinner chocolates and jellies.

What a meal! Each course was paired with a wine donated by a local distributor — Mazzoni rhapsodized about the Mouton Rothschild wine paired with the seventh-course sirloin. Distributors donating wines included

8:53 AM

Page 19

Brown-Forman, Cutting Edge, Dumante Verdenace (BMK), Republic National Distributing Company, Southern Wine & Spirits and W. J. Deutsch.

There was no reserved seating. The 85 attendees were told to sit wherever they wanted.

Those lucky enough to snare seats in the “TV Room” were treated to watching the flat-panel screens in their dining area which relayed live video of chefs from Louisville’s top restaurants all working together in the kitchen. “Amazing, just amazing,” said one diner who was able to watch.

Corbett’s is the only restaurant in the region to have a video setup like this, where diners can watch their meal being prepared and talk back and forth via video with the chefs preparing it.

▲ ▲ (opening page, left) The first course: Peruvian striped bass seviche with aji amarillo, leche de tigre and camote. (opening page, right) Second course: Pan seared diver scallop with smoked bacon truffled shrimp sauce, butter poached lobster claw atop chili corn hash.

▲ (above, right) Third course: Mason-Dixon Line cornbread muffin, crawfish and andouille-madeleine, pot-liquor pipette and hock mush, buttermilk bacon brittle. (above, left) Fourth course: Ancho roasted sweet potato with baby spinach, pine nuts, apple cider vinaigrette.

▲

4/21/08

▲ ▲

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

Fifth course palate-cleanser, a chili sorghum sorbet. (opposite, from top) Chef Anthony Lamas (Seviche), Chef Michael Crouch (Bourbons Bistro), Chef Anoosh Shariat, Chefs Todd Richards (left) and Duane Nutter (Oakroom), Chefs John Castro (Winston’s) and (right) Rafael Hernandez (Mojito).

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 19

4/21/08

9:58 AM

Page 20

▲ Sixth course: Sopes with roasted pork shoulder, guajillo chili sauce and pickled red onions.

▲

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

(from top) Chef Allan Rosenberg, Chef Jay Denham (Park Place), Chef Fernando Martinez and wife Cristina (Mojito).

▲

Chefs Chris Howerton (left) and Nick Sullivan (Corbett’s).

(top right) Seventh course: Chocolate chili bison short rib, grit cake, Kentucky grass-fed beef strip sirloin, oyster mushroom, sweetbread and Madeira sauce.

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:58 AM

Page 21

“Not only did these very hard working folks volunteer their time but they would not accept tips,” said White.

A server who found a $40 tip on her table at the end of the evening made her way over to White and handed the money to him.

“Make sure this gets to Danny’s family,” she told him.

The evening also included a silent auction, with items arranged throughout the downstairs rooms of the restaurant. All during the evening, guests trooped downstairs to bid on the items, ranging from bottles of high-end wine to getaway weekends to complimentary dinners at top restaurants.

“Personally, I felt luckier than most because I not only got to enjoy the wonderful meal but I also was able to peek behind the scene into the kitchen,” said Food & Dining Publisher John White.“The atmosphere in the kitchen was absolutely electric and awash with camaraderie among the chefs. Everyone in the kitchen was excited about what was going on and it seemed every one of them had brought their digital cameras to document the goings-on.

“More important, I want to take a moment to extend my heartfelt thanks to everyone that was involved in and attended the event.”

In addition to all the individuals and vendors named above, White gave special thanks to the Dining for Dan Committee, who in addition to himself included Paul Smith, Paul Najjar and Tammy Bosco. In particular he singled out committee members Karen Shane and Emilie Pfeiffer: “I can honestly say that this event would never www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 21

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:58 AM

Page 22

have happened without Karen Shane,” he said. “From the moment the news of Dan’s passing was known, Karen was at work helping to organize this event. She helped in securing the location, the chefs and all the volunteer servers. She was able to get all the wine and spirits donated for the dinner and a good number of the auction items came from her hard work. I even think I saw her washing dishes at the end. Karen is one of the most giving people I have ever had the pleasure of knowing.”

Of Emilie Pfeiffer, he added, “If I had a dollar for every time she made me laugh I could put both of Danny’s boys through college. She was the driving force behind the silent auction.”

Finally, White said, in words that surely speak for everyone involved with the event: “To our host, Dean Corbett, and his staff: I can’t say enough about your graciousness and hospitality. Dean, you sir, are the salt of the earth.” F&D

▲

Eighth course: Spanish goat cheese flan, Membrillo and Tetilla cheese miniempanadas, guava paste and Manchego mini sandwich, Asturiano blue cheese and fig ice cream.

Finally, the ninth course — Mignardises.

Chef Dean Corbett

▲

16-23_Dine Dan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:59 AM

Page 23

(Clockwise, from above) The amazing collection of chefs, sous chefs and kitchen support staff who made the event more than memorable. Food & Dining Publisher, John Carlos White (left), host Dean Corbett, and guest of honor Sara Boyle, share a moment at the end of the evening. The much enjoyed Mouton Rothschild. Guests, including Food & Dining columnist Dave Lange (left), enjoy a moment while viewing the silent auction items in the lower level of Corbett’s. The attentive waitstaff taking exceptional care of the patrons. Guests enjoying themselves between courses.The ensemble cast of front-of-the-house staff.True professionals, some had never set foot in the building — you wouldn’t have known it from the level of service provided.

24-25_Cork 101_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

liquids cork 101

8:56 AM

Page 24

BY ROBIN GARR

recession

proof y o u r

G

Gas prices are up. Inflation is up. Fear of recession is up.

And just to add insult to injury, the prices of fancy wines are way, way up.

The Euro is beating up on the dollar like Road Runner on Wile E. Coyote, but it’s not all about imports. Pursued by squadrons of day traders and hedge fund managers who don’t have to count their bucks … yet … the price tags on the better products of just about all the world’s sought-after wine regions have left the $10 mark behind and are moving quickly toward $20 and beyond.

wine rack

What’s a frugal wine lover to do?

Frankly, although you can still get many of the bigname wines made in industrial quantities for single-digit prices, life is too short to drink boring wine (or beer). I won’t hold out Carlo Rossi, or even Woodbridge or Yellowtail, as everyday options for those of us who enjoy the more subtle pleasures of ar tisan-style beverages, although the times and conditions do make the massmarket option a credible choice for a party.

But it’s still possible to sneak under the radar and enjoy wines of quality and real flavor interest without having to take out a second mortgage to do it. Local retailers still offer a good selection of quality, flavorful wines in a variety of styles from all over the world.

Let’s run through a few quick budget shopping tips.

Then I’ll tempt your taste buds with quick reports on a few good, affordable wines I’ve been sampling recently from Louisville-area wine shops. > Steer clear of the highly rated wines.Those on-shelf adverts that trumpet the 90-plus ratings move wine, but the notoriety that comes with a high Wine Spectator or Parker rating boosts prices, and frankly, most serious wine “geeks” have outgrown the ratings race anyway. Some of my top wines earn Spectator points in the 80s, because I don’t share the glossy mag’s love for high-alcohol “fruit bombs.” If you prefer subtlety and elegance in wines, you might be there, too. > Move off the beaten path. Locate the most sought-after grapes, regions and producers … then move on down the line to its less-familiar neighbors. Skip the pricey Burgundies; try an offbeat Loire Valley Cabernet Franc instead. Move along from that pricey Napa Cabernet to Sonoma. Trade that blockbuster Barossa Valley Aussie Shiraz for a hot little number from neighboring Coonawarra, and so it goes.

24 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

> Browse the closeout bins for exceptional bargains, but shop smart. You’ll find fine bargains in the sale carts, but be just a little cynical.Take along your knowledge — and a copy of a handy guide like Hugh Johnson’s annual Pocket Wine Book — so you can check vintages and avoid young wines too old to enjoy (resist the impulse to get last year’s Nouveau Beaujolais, no matter how attractive the price). Be skeptical about older wines with unknown storage history, obvious evidence of wine having leaked out around the cork, or bottles that appear less than normally full.

Ultimately, though, if in doubt and the price is right, take the risk.

For me, at least, a great potential buy is worth the occasional disappointment of a dud bottle. > Get to know the good folks at your better local wine shops. A wine-shop manager who knows your tastes can be your best friend in discovering wines you’ll enjoy at a price you’ll pay. Get to know how your favorite shops stash their bargains. Just to pick a

24-25_Cork 101_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:56 AM

Page 25

few examples at random, Gemelli Wine & Spirits, 3626 Brownsboro Road, generally maintains a long stretch of shelf space for excellent $10 wines as well as placing monthly special buys on display; Old Town Liquors, 1529 Bardstown Road, loads dozens of special bargains in boxes at the ends of rows; and at shops like St. Matthews Wine Co., 3911 Chenoweth Square, and The Wine Rack, 2716 Frankfort Avenue, proprietors Doug Frede and John Johnson, respectively, can be relied on to point out what’s new and affordable.

Now, here’s the promised shopping list, a half-dozen excellent wines in the $10-or-less category, all purchased locally in recent months, all providing plenty of bang-for-the-buck pleasure.

Chateau Sauman 2005 Cotes de Bourg ($9.99) Currants and dusty red clay, a lot of minerality and good, juicy red fruit. Good now, may improve with three to five years of cellar time.

Bodegas Norton 2006 “Lo Tengo” Mendoza Malbec ($9.99) Attractive red fruit, fresh and juicy plums shaped by tart fruit flavors, mouthwatering acidity and soft tannins.

Cave de Montagnac 2006 Picpoul de Pinet ($7.99) Clean and fresh, citrus and a whiff of pear, crisp fruit flavors add refreshment with brisk fresh-fruit acidity.

Laurel Glen 2006 “REDS” Lodi Red Wine ($10.99) A lovely mix of fresh fruit flavors, blackberries and plums, with an intriguing “sweet” aroma akin to homemade boysenberry jam. Ripe and deep, beautifully structured, a great value.

Fetzer 2006 California Gewurztraminer ($10.99) Very appetizing peach and pink grapefruit with a hint of honeydew melon. Off-dry but not at all cloying, peach and citrus with sufficient acidity for balance.

Domaine de Pouy 2006 Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gasgogne ($8.99) Pleasant, fresh lemon-lime and green-apple aromas and flavors, crisp and dry, with a subtly “grassy” character behind the citric fruit. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 25

26-27_Spirits_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

liquids spirits

8:57 AM

Page 26

BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

T

The daffodils, lilies and forsythia are star ting to bloom in the backyard as I write this. Don’t get me wrong. I am not going to wax poetic about spring in any traditional way.

But all this flowering color has me thinking about what spring does bring: gardening and horse racing. And it doesn’t take too much persuasion to prompt my mind to put a drinking spin on any combination. So with a little mint from the backyard, a bottle of Bourbon in one hand and a Daily Racing Form in the other, let’s wander over to the bar. Here we will have a little discussion on spring cocktails and all things mint.

Of course, the most famous mint cocktail is the Mint Julep, a drink so enshrined in local tradition that we capitalize its name. Historically, the early julep was recorded as a breakfast beverage, intended to fortify colonial farmers. We may think of our ancestors as teetotalers, but indeed pre-Prohibition Americans could drink. Juleps did not begin with Bourbon. Cognac, rum, peach brandy and various other spirits were all used before the Mint Julep was codified into perfection as a Bourbon-based drink.

In the year 1938 the Mint Julep became the official drink of the Kentucky Derby. More than 80,000 of them will almost surely be sold at Churchill Downs over the two-day Kentucky Oaks and Derby weekend this year.

Although the drink has reached elevated heights, it is not without its detractors. Louisvillians sometimes look down their noses at the Mint Julep as a mere tourist drink or, at best, something to secretly enjoy on that one weekend a year, for nostalgia’s sake, of course.

I think this disdain may stem from the sad reality that most Mint Juleps are poured from pre-mixed bottles. While these may serve efficiency, they leave something to be desired in the categories of subtlety and balance. A great Mint Julep should be alluring to the nose from fresh mint, just sweet enough on the palate, and refreshing without any alcohol burn. Fashioning a julep that balances these needs requires a hand with some restraint and a little bit of time.

26 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Mint Julep 1

/2 ounce simple syrup 3 to 4 sprigs of fresh mint 2 ounces good quality Kentucky Bourbon Crushed ice > Make a batch of “simple syrup”: Blend equal amounts of sugar and water, bring to a rolling boil until the sugar dissolves, and let it cool. (Two cups each of sugar and water will be enough for about 30 juleps; it keeps well in the refrigerator.)

> Select your mint — a “sprig” is defined as the end division of plant, so think of each sprig as the first three or four tiny, tender leaves on the stalk — and “muddle” it in 1/2 ounce of the simple syrup, literally smashing the leaves of mint into the syrup and rubbing them vigorously against the glass to release their oils and flavors. A splendid muddler can be purchased at a kitchen supply outlet, such as Williams-Sonoma; or if you’re not long on fancy, you can use the handle end of a wooden spoon. > Add the Bourbon and stir thoroughly. Your choice of Bourbon is an individual call for the connoisseur. For novices, you won’t go wrong with local Brown-Forman’s Woodford Reserve, the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby.

26-27_Spirits_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:57 AM

Page 27

> Choose your julep glass.You are welcome to splurge on silver julep cups, but a simple tall highball glass will work just fine. Pack the glass with crushed ice. This will have two great effects: It creates that great frosty mist on the outside of the glass and, as it melts, it will bring down the proof, eliminating unnecessary calls for soda water. > Garnish with another sprig of mint and two stir straws. Use the straws to enjoy your potion. This technique brings your nose down to the fresh mint garnish, and it presents the strong, sweetened, cold whiskey from the bottom without the snocone effect of drinking from the edge.

Note: I employ only one shortcut from tradition: I infuse the mint into the simple syrup in advance.This eliminates the muddling step and the possibility of chunks of mint floating in your drink.To make this minted simple syrup, if you wish, simply bring two cups of sugar and two cups of water to a boil, as above. Remove from heat and immediately stir in a good-size handful of fresh mint. Cover and let steep for 30 minutes, then use in your julep without further muddling.

1722 Frankfort Ave., Louisville

502-896-8770

www.northendcafe.com

For an interesting and historically correct variation of an early julep, try this one from Dale Degroff ’s The Craft of the Cocktail.

Pineapple Julep Leaves from 2 tender sprigs of mint 3 wedges of ripe pineapple 1 ounce simple syrup 2 ounces good quality Kentucky Bourbon 2 tender sprigs of mint, for garnish Crushed ice > In a mixing glass, muddle the mint leaves, pineapple wedges, and simple syrup. > Add Bourbon and ice and shake well.

Strain into a highball glass with crushed ice and stir well until the glass frosts. Garnish with the mint sprigs.

So, take your time, do it right, and remember why the Mint Julep is one of the most well-known drinks in the cocktail lexicon. And, in case I am running on a little long about one simple libation, I recall the words of the Beastie Boys from Brouhaha, “We be makin’ mountains out of Cool Whip, pass me the mint for the julep.” F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 27

28-29_Rest Favs_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:58 AM

Page 28

recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Varanese’s

ASIAN BBQ DUCK BREAST

I

If you see a duck coming, duck! This attitude, unfor tunately, seems all too common among some Louisville diners, who fear that a duck dish will be too strong or gamey for comfor t, perhaps something like lamb with wings and a beak.

Those of us who go quackers over duck know better, of course. If you love duck as we do, or if you’re open-minded enough to consider a delicious experiment, we recommend the Asian BBQ Duck Breast with Thai Noodles at Varanese, the popular and stylish new restaurant in the beautifully renovated quarters that once housed Red Lounge in Clifton. Chef John Varanese kicks up the humble duck with spicy-sweet Asian flavors that pop like firecrackers in a memorable combo.

“There is some skepticism about duck and how gamey it

28 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

with Thai noodles

may or may not be,” Varanese said. “I told someone the other day it was like dark meat on chicken. They tried it and loved it.”

Although it’s not on the regular menu at Varanese, the chef said it has become so popular since he featured it as a special that he expects it will appear frequently. The recipe is an old favorite, he says, that has evolved over the years. “I guess it’s just being a chef. Every time I pick up an old recipe there is something else around to influence a variation. This is the first time for the hot noodles and vegetables to this dish.”

We love it, and we think you will too. Even if you don’t believe you like duck. If you want to sample it at Varanese, we suggest you call ahead to ask when it will be on the menu. Or try it at home at your convenience.

28-29_Rest Favs_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:58 AM

Varanese’s Asian BBQ Duck Breast with Thai Noodles (SERVES 4)

Page 29

4 large or 8 small boneless duck breasts 1 ounce sesame oil 1 ounce vegetable oil Salt Black pepper 1. Score the duck breasts by slicing through the skin with a sharp knife in a criss-cross pattern. Season the breasts with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Mix the sesame oil and vegetable oil and put them in a large skillet over high heat.

3. Put the seasoned duck breasts in the skillet, skin side down, and sear for about 4 to 6 minutes on each side, depending on size, until medium rare. Allow the breasts to rest for a few minutes before slicing.

Asian BBQ Sauce: 1 /4 teaspoon garlic, minced 1 /2 teaspoon fresh ginger, minced 1 /2 teaspoon fresh cilantro, chopped 1 /4 cup hoisin sauce 1 /2 cup plum sauce 1 /2 teaspoon chili garlic sauce 1 teaspoon rice vinegar

"I love a grand hotel.

I adore sweeping into a lavish lobby that looks like it came straight from a 1930s movie set."

– SOUTHERN LIVING

“The English Grill has emerged as the finest restaurant in the city.”

– WINE SPECTATOR

1. Chop or mince the garlic, ginger and cilantro, as noted.

2. Blend the chopped ingredients with the sauces and vinegar. (These Asian sauces should be widely available at Asian markets or specialty stores like Lotsa Pasta.)

Rice Noodles: 1 pound Asian-style rice noodles 1 red bell pepper, julienned 1 fresh mango, julienned 1 cucumber, 1/2 peeled, seeded, julienned 1 bunch scallions, sliced 1 cup chicken broth 1 tablespoon miso paste 1 teaspoon Thai red curry paste 1. Soak the rice noodles in just-boiled hot water for about 5 minutes, until they are tender. Rinse under cold water to cool.

2. Blend the broth, miso and curry in a small bowl, and heat this mixture in a skillet over medium heat. Add the julienned vegetables; simmer until they are warmed through and have absorbed almost all the liquid.

Assembly: Place a portion of the noodles in the center of each plate, pulling the vegetables to the top. Lay down a little sauce on either side, then fan slices of duck breast atop the sauce.

Brush a little more sauce on the top of the breasts for an appetizing shiny look. F&D

T H E

E N G L I S H

G R I L L

All your favorite libations in a stunning turn-of-the-century setting.

THE GRAND LOBBY BAR

DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 29

30-31_Road Trip_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

travel road trip

8:59 AM

Page 30

BY RON JOHNSON

GREAT FOOD

S

Spring break may bring the college kids to Daytona Beach and Fort Lauderdale. But foodies flock to Miami — a slightly more sophisticated setting.

Miami has been a work in progress for decades; a city that straddles multiple cultures and ethnicities. And an influx of money from retiring Yankees is now helping finance its renaissance.

Perhaps the most striking example of Miami’s resurgence is its South Beach. A self-contained neighborhood on a peninsula jutting into the Atlantic Ocean, South Beach was a faded jewel that had succumbed to urban decay until a decade ago, when investors began restoring its Art Deco hotels to their former glory. Now the main drags of Collins and Ocean Avenues bustle with tourists, celebrities and locals, giving the neighborhood an international, cosmopolitan flair.

One of the best places to eat in Miami is the classic Joe’s Stone Crab, which has not just survived but flourished; a temple dedicated to the crustacean in its name.

Here is where you get stone crab in Miami.

The setting is reminiscent of a classic old-school steakhouse, but in place of slabs of charred beef, diners are served platters heaped with steamed stone crab claws garnished with cocktail sauce and butter.

The creamed spinach and crispy steakhouse fries are good, but play second fiddle 30 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

to the sweet crab meat that is the main event. One word of caution: be prepared to wait.There is always a line out the door, and it can exceed two hours. A smart option is to pick up an order of claws to go and enjoy them al fresco.

Because of the obvious and omnipresent influence of Latino and Caribbean culture, one would be remiss in visiting Miami and failing to try its authentic Cuban cuisine.

Stalwarts stop for Cuban cuisine at Versaille on Calle Ocho in the heart of Little Havana, where the Cuban community has been meeting for café con leche for years. The menu is full of hearty Cuban staples like Moros y Cristianos (“Moors and Christians”) — a clever if not very PC name for a flavorful combination of black beans and white rice. For those staying in South Beach and unwilling to catch a cab across the inlet, Puerta Sagua at Collins & 7th offers the same classic Cuban food right in the heart of the Art Deco district. Diners can grab a cubano sandwich filled with luscious roast pork, or some sugary Cuban pastries for a morning treat before hitting the beach.

Ethnic cuisine in Miami is not limited to Cuban delicacies, though. El Chalan on Bird Street offers Peruvian dishes like jalea mixta, a platter of fried seafood and yuca with chili-and-lime-marinated onions and peppers which offers a sublime mix of hot

and greasy and cool and crunchy. Chalan on the Beach has a similar slate of Peruvian dishes, including ceviche, but offers the added bonus of a great view of the ocean from its location in South Beach.

It doesn’t take long to realize that there is plenty of money in Miami, and most of it seems to be in South Beach. A stroll down Collins Avenue allows a glimpse of hotels emblazoned with familiar names like Ritz-Carlton, Raleigh, Delano, and Lowes. While the thousand-dollar per night suites in these hotels are reserved for the well-heeled, most have fine restaurants that offer a quick glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich and famous.

The restaurants at the Setai and the Delano are both stunning showstoppers.

At the Setai, lush Asian-style gardens and fountains make for a setting almost too perfect to be believed. At the Delano, couples can linger over cocktails at tables placed in the shallow end of a huge reflecting pool or lounge on beds that overlook the beach. While these might not be the place for a full meal (unless you’re packing a platinum credit card), they are well worth a stop for a glass of wine and an appetizer. Don’t miss the kobe chili on a miniature hot dog at the Setai. It’s a natural counterpart to a glass of bubbly poolside.

If money is no object, then Table 8 in the new Regent Hotel or David Bouley

30-31_Road Trip_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:59 AM

Page 31

Evolution in the Ritz-Carlton South Beach are the places to go. At Table 8, Chef Govind Armstrong turns out serious, upscale cuisine bolstered by a wine list with a staggering number of choices, including nearly 200 selections of sparkling wine alone. Up the street at the Ritz, David Bouley is doing what he does best, albeit with a more pronounced Asian/Japanese influence, and with a nod to the ample local fruits and vegetables that are not so readily available to his Manhattan restaurants.

For serious foodies who want the most bang for their buck, there is no better place than Sardinia. Housed in the warm and wood-filled interior of a small building at the end of lonely street on the inlet side of South Beach, Sardinia is a real find for those who love gutsy, full-flavored food.

The cuisine is true to the Mediterranean island for which the restaurant is named.

The wine list is chock full of interesting and esoteric selections, including a number of Sardinian wines not found in most American restaurants. It is way off the beaten path from the main drags of Collins Avenue and Ocean Drive, but it’s worth the short hike or cab ride.Antipasti include a delicious trio of caponata, roasted cipollini, and brussels sprouts with pancetta, as well as a number of fresh and vibrant salads.

Everyone who dines there seems to order the huge platter (everything here is enough food for several people) of flashfried fresh anchovies over an arugula salad dressed with fruity Sardinian olive oil and lemon juice. The anchovies are crunchy and delicious paired with a crisp white Vermentino from the wine list. For main courses, order anything that the chef hoists into the huge wood-burning oven that is the focal point of the restaurant.The roast suckling pig is flavorful and moist with crispy skin and succulent meat. For dessert, Sardinia offers a cheese selection second to none. Don’t skip it.

Besides Sardinia, there are a number of other worthwhile foodie destinations in Miami, including Michael’s Genuine, Casa Tua, Fratelli La Bufala, Tip-Tap, and Michy’s. In fact, it would be difficult to even list all the great places to eat without missing somebody’s favorite.

The bottom line? Miami is no longer just a place with a great beach and beautiful people. It has become one of the premier restaurant cities in the country. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 31

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:02 AM

Page 32

New Tables Abound

in the Far East End 32 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:03 AM

Page 33

I

In the early days of this country, thousands of pioneers heeded the call to “Go West, young man,” scrambling for unclaimed land in what would become the states from Colorado to California. That same pioneering spirit is on display on the Louisville restaurant scene today. Now though, the adventurers are moving in the opposite direction, staking claims in Louisville’s suburban East End. In the last year, a number of high-profile chefs have opened new restaurants in eastern Jefferson County, and others are planning to do so. Together they are bringing bold flavors and ethnic diversity to an area long dominated by homogeneous chain restaurants.

Among the leaders in this eastern expansion are Dean Corbett, who opened the upscale restaurant Corbett’s ‘an American place’ in Old Brownsboro Crossing in December, and Anthony Lamas, who added his second restaurant, Seviche – A Latin Bistro, on Goose Creek Road a month before that.

In June, J.D. Rothberg of Napa River Grill will join the eastern migration when he relocates his restaurant from DuPont Circle to Westport Village, a new development on Herr Lane. And several new, independently owned establishments like Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar and Incredible Dave’s have opened in the area as well.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 33

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:03 AM

Page 34

people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

W

Why the sudden interest in the East End? The restaurant owners we talked to said it was a simple matter of push and pull. The already-established restaurant corridors have reached the point of saturation, they said. Do we really need another restaurant on Bardstown Road or Frankfort Avenue?

And the East End is exerting its pull. For the last decade, the eastern end of the community has been the site of the most explosive commercial and residential growth in the Louisville Metro area. According to the Kentucky State Data Center, the residential population in the four Census tracts between Westport Road and U.S. 42 grew more than 33 percent between 1990 and 2000, and that trend is expected to continue when the next Census is taken in 2010.

Rothberg said statistics like these inspired his plan to move Napa River Grill from its longtime home to Westport Village.

“DuPont Circle is neat, but it’s quiet when you’re the only person

the area was the Stoney River Steakhouse. It is a beautiful restaurant, but once again it is a chain.”

Corbett said that many of his regular customers at his restaurant, Equus, in St. Matthews, kept asking him why he didn’t move it farther out to the East End. There are 105,000 homes within five miles of Corbett’s new restaurant, and, he said, the area is only going to get bigger. “It’s all of these developments out here: Ashbury Park, Worthington, and Norton Commons.They just go on and on. It used to be just Glen Oaks and Glenmary out here. Now, every time you turn around there is another subdivision going up.” He pointed out that Norton Healthcare is building a new 140-bed acute-care hospital in the area. “If I can get all of those physicians and visitors coming for lunch, I think it’d be great for us.”

Corbett’s is housed in a 150-year-old bungalow-style farmhouse — part of the old Von Allmen Dairy Farm — on over two

“

I thought the area was screaming out for something that was high-end, independent, and chef-driven.

”

— Dean Corbett, Corbett’s ‘an American PLace’

out there,” Rothberg explained. “There is no foot traffic, no driveby traffic. We liked what they were doing at Westport Village. It is a great area to be in and it’s only four miles from I-264. It just seems that area is where things are happening.”

Corbett, who has lived in the East End for years, said the area’s population density and proximity to the Gene Snyder Freeway played a part in his decision to open Corbett’s now, adding that the area is ripe for independent restaurants with something unique to offer patrons. “I thought the area was screaming out for something that was high-end, independent, and chefdriven,” he said.“That was a big motivation for me. I think that was the attraction for Anthony Lamas as well.The nicest restaurant in

34 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

acres of land.The site is directly in front of the Costco store which opened last year, but when Corbett first saw the place, it was surrounded by nothing but farmland. He said the chance to help mold the area was as exciting to him as the business opportunity provided by his restaurant. As soon as he saw the former farmhouse, Corbett said it was love at first sight.

“When they were building the Lowe’s I drove back and saw the house,” Corbett said. “I thought it was beautiful. I cupped my hands to stare into the windows. The property was lovely too. I liked all of the big trees.They didn’t have roads here then. It had a circular, rock driveway and a pool that had caved in. There was a horseback riding ring and a big underground gas tank,” he added,

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:03 AM

American place’ 327-5058 5050 Norton Healthcare Boulevard Corbett’s ‘‘an

Dean Corbett, the chef and owner of Corbett’s ‘an American place’.

Page 35

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

36 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

9:03 AM

Page 36

4/21/08

9:03 AM

Page 37

noting that they had to remove the gas tank at the start of renovation.“I was going for something like the Inn at Little Washington or Blackberry Farm, something with the Southern charm of the old house.”

From the time Corbett first saw the house, it took more than a year and almost $3 million in renovations to get the new restaurant open for business.

One of the most successful and recognizable chefs in Louisville, Corbett said his new restaurant is the culmination of his culinary dreams. Born in Oregon, Dean Corbett has called many places home, because his father was a salesman who moved the family often. He lived in Louisville twice, attending grade school and high school here before returning for good in 1983 after graduating from college in Texas. “I had family here and I loved this city,” he said.

“I started cooking at Red Lobster after a stint washing dishes,” he told us. “When I moved back to Louisville, I got a job at Casa Grisanti. It was an incredible kitchen to be around, very energetic and competitive. If you didn’t work hard enough you were demoted quickly and you worked your butt off because you wanted to get back where you were.”

In 1985, after Grisanti’s closed, Corbett opened Equus with help from his father and a family friend who owned the St. Matthews commercial building where the restaurant is located. Several years later, Corbett opened Jack’s, a stylish upscale bar, adjacent to Equus. He named Jack’s for his father.

His new restaurant, Corbett’s ‘an American place,’ is more a creation of his imagination than the other two, he said. “I had been thinking about moving out in this direction, doing something, but it had to be the right location. I didn’t want to be in another cookie-cutter strip mall. I wanted something with character.” The old Von Allmen house, built in 1850, certainly has character, both with its age and beauty.

“To be able to actually design the kitchen the way we wanted it and not get stuck with what was already there, that was ideal for me,” Corbett said. “At Equus, it gets kind of tough because I can’t add concrete walls or anything.You just have to add equipment and make it work. Here I was actually able to design the space, move walls; we could do all of that here. It is just nice.”

Corbett, who also hosts the cable-television show “Secrets of Louisville Chefs,” said he doesn’t cook on a day-to-day basis anymore. He has executive chefs at all of his establishments who handle the actual cooking while he deals with the front of the house.

At this time he has no plans for another restaurant, pointing out that Corbett’s isn’t even close to

reaching its full potential. “We are not finished at Corbett’s yet,” he promised. “We still have three outdoor areas to get going. Potentially, we might add outdoor restrooms and an outdoor bar area.There is a lot on the horizon here. This project is not completed yet. This area out here is going to grow and grow. I see the restaurant growing along with it.”

▲ Corbett’s maple panna cotta with cranberry compote, candied fig and blood orange gastrique.

▲

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

Maple Leaf Farms duck breast on pumpkin risotto with Woodford Reserve spiced fruit chutney and cider reduction from Corbett’s. www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 37

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

A

9:03 AM

Page 38

Anthony Lamas feels that same potential in the East End customer base. He opened Seviche – A Latin Bistro on Goose Creek Road in November, and he says the place is showing “limitless potential.”

However, he said, it did take him a while to recognize the difference between his new East End customers and people who frequent his Seviche – A Latin Restaurant in the Highlands.“You’re going to see different touches at each of the restaurants,” Lamas explained. “They are different because each of the areas is a little different.” The duck confit on the menu at his Highlands restaurant is a great seller, but it didn’t do so well in the more conservative East End. At the new Seviche, he said, he now has a “steak of the day” selection — something that’s not offered in the Highlands restaurant. “It seems like the clientele wants a big steak out there,” he said. “I look around me and you’ve got Outback and Stoney River (steakhouses). In the Highlands, I think people might be a little more adventurous in some things.” Maybe, he says, that’s simply because his Highlands location is on “the trendy restaurant row.”

Dining times are another big difference. At the Goose Creek location, diners reserve for early seatings, and “at 5 o’clock when I open my doors, my reservations are coming in. But at 9:30 the place is clearing out.

“In the Highlands, the first reservation doesn’t even show up until eight,” he added, noting that the Bardstown Road Seviche has “a late-night crowd.”

Lamas said geography also plays a role in the kind of business the restaurant does. “We tried lunch for a while (at the Goose Creek location), but it just didn’t work,” he said, explaining that the location was simply “more residential. As the outdoors open up, we might try lunch again.”

Lamas is confident that Seviche’s Nuevo Latino cuisine will be a hit with East End patrons because he has been drawing them to his Highlands location since it opened three years ago.

“We took zip codes when we took reservations, because I was interested to see where the people lived,” he said. “We found that people from the East End would come mostly on the weekends, because they had to make it a special occasion. They would have to get with other couples to drive all the way here.”

He saw, as he had suspected, that he was pulling customers from Oldham County and Crestwood. “That’s what I was really looking at,” he said.

And because of that, he felt a new restaurant in the East End would do well — and that’s been supported by comments he hears from diners at his Goose Creek location. “So far, what we

A Latin Bistro 425-1000

Seviche 2929 Goose Creek Road Anthony Lamas, chef and owner of Seviche – A Latin Bistro.

38 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

38

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:03 AM

Page 39

Seviche tasting of tuna, crab and halibut from Seviche – A Latin Bistro.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 39

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:02 AM

Page 40

people and places profiles

Seviche’s pan-roasted Florida snapper on a bed of wild mushrooms and baby spinach ragout, topped with grape tomato and sun-dried yellow tomato salsa, finished with green olive chimichurri.

40 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:02 AM

Page 41

heard from our clientele is, ‘I’m so glad you came out here. We loved your restaurant, but it was so hard to get out there.’

“It’s nice for them to be able to eat at Seviche (on Goose Creek) on the spur of the moment on a Tuesday,” he continued. “Now it’s a five-minute drive, where before it was a half-hour drive to the Highlands.”

Lamas believes the influx of independent restaurants into the East End will raise the expectations of diners in the area; that once they experience establishments like Napa River Grill, Corbett’s and his place, they will no longer be satisfied with the chain-restaurant experience. “If you eat at an Outback in Atlanta, it’s the same as eating at an Outback here,” Lamas said.

Of course, he added, that’s the goal of the chains: “They want you to have the same experience at every restaurant. An independent chef-owner wants you to have a different magical experience every time you visit,” he said, adding that this difference is likely based on the difference between the corporate chef of the chain restaurant and the chef-owner of the independent establishment. “My restaurant speaks of me. It’s like walking into my family’s house.You are going to feel my heritage and my character,” he said. “When you work for someone else, it’s like being an artist with one arm.”

Lamas is often credited with popularizing Latin cuisine in the River City.

The California native is the son of a Mexican mother and a Puerto Rican father. He grew up working in the kitchen of his uncle’s restaurant, Lamasty.

“I would help wash dishes, bus tables, and then I started to learn to prep,” Lamas said.“It became a trade for me at first. I was able to get a job, because I had knife skills.”

After graduating from high school, Lamas moved to San Diego, where he worked for the Loews Coronado Bay Resort. He credits the chef there, Jeff Tunks, for helping him develop his Pacific Rim recipes and teaching him that cooking was more than a job. Lamas said, “At age 19, I saw that cooking was more of an art. I was like, ‘Wow, I can do this with my heritage.’ I could use my family recipes but do it with an upscale twist.”

Lamas followed a girlfriend from San Diego to Louisville, where he spent time at Lilly’s and Baxter Station before opening his first restaurant. He and a partner opened Jicama Grill in 2000, but it closed after they had a falling out.

In 2005, Lamas opened Seviche in the same location on Bardstown Road.

“Balancing the art and the business were something that took me a long time to learn,” Lamas said. “After Jicama, I knew that I’d never have a partner again. I see now why restaurants are chef-driven.With me being a chef-owner I’m able to have people upfront who are knowledgeable about my food. I want them to be one team. Sometimes in a restaurant it’s like you have two teams — the back of the house and the front of the house. Here we are one team and I can explain the food to everyone.”

When he was designing the Goose Creek location, Lamas said he took heed of some of the lessons he learned at the original Seviche. He made sure the new place had more bathrooms, a bigger kitchen and adequate parking.

“We always hear complaints about how hard it is to find parking in the Highlands,” he said. “That was a big issue for me. (The Highlands location) is intimate and small. The new restaurant gave me a chance to look at how I could run things a little smoother.” The restaurants are different, of course; he said, partly because they’re in different areas. But there are similarities as well.

“You are going to see similarities in the brick and stone that we used” at both places, he said, but the biggest similarity is that “you are going to know that Anthony Lamas is the chef at both places.” www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 41

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:02 AM

Page 42

people and places profiles

J

▲

Jim Davis helped set the foundation for the current influx of independent restaurants into the East End, and represents the area’s past and its future. Davis is in the process of purchasing Martini Italian Bistro from the Ohio-based Cameron Mitchell Restaurants chain. He has spent seven years working for Cameron Mitchell as Martini’s general manager. “When I came to apply for the job, most of this was still farmland,” Davis said. “Our two restaurants (Martini Italian Bistro and the Fish Market) were the first two restaurants here.” The area has seen so much development he said, that it has changed drastically. “If I hadn’t watched it happen, I probably wouldn’t believe a community could grow so much in such a short time.”

He believes that the growth will continue at its current pace for at least the next five to seven years.

Like Corbett, Davis pointed to the Norton hospital project and other commercial development as signs of the East End’s vitality. Davis said that he has always welcomed new restaurants because they bring traffic into the area. “We’ve never had a problem making people happy when they get here,” Davis said. “I think we are a destination restaurant. A lot of people come here for special occasions, because we do special occasions so well. We have private rooms that seat 30. We used to draw mostly from this neighborhood, but that has changed as word has gotten out. During that bad weather we had this winter, we had people coming from Knoxville because there was something on our menu that they wanted.”

Davis, a native of London, England, entered the food-service industry almost by accident. In fact, he left college with degrees in printing administration and business management. But after attending an American-style bartending school, he started working part-time on weekends as a bartender. That led to work at a nightclub, where his business background helped him rise to general manager. He and a

Martini’s Shrimp Garganelli: jumbo Gulf shrimp with crushed red pepper, white wine garlic sauce, oven roasted tomatoes, spinach and goat cheese.

42 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:02 AM

Page 43

Jim Davis, general manager at Martini Italian Bistro, is taking over ownership of the upscale Italian restaurant at the Summit.

Italian Bistro 394-9797

Martini 4021 Summit Plaza Drive partner ran their own pub in England for about four years, until he moved to the United States.

“My partner had been coming to the states for 15 years before I came over,” Davis said. “I came over one year on his recommendation. We went to Orlando, Florida. He said, ‘How did you like it?’ I said, okay, but I wasn’t really that impressed. For some reason, I went back the next year and I met the woman I would marry.The funny thing is, we’d both been married before and had said ‘never again.’ But here we are, still together.”

Davis spent his first few years in America working for corporate chains. First there was Planet Hollywood, when the now-defunct organization was doing a million dollars a day in business. Then he moved with the company from Orlando to Nashville, so his wife could be close to her family in Kentucky. Next was Bahama Breeze, when the chain had only four restaurants, and finally, Chi-Chi’s, where he was the beverage manager. When he first knocked on the door of the Martini Italian Bistro, Davis said

he was just looking for a job that would keep his family in Louisville. He never expected to do such a good job that his boss would demand he take over the place.

Cameron Mitchell Restaurants was founded in 1993, and until recently, the chain operated 30 restaurants around the country.

The company “first approached me last summer about taking over the restaurant,” Davis said. “I thought he was crazy. But then they sold the Fish Markets, which were two-thirds of the company. After that happened, he approached me again about taking over this place, which was the only restaurant he still had in Kentucky. In his words, he couldn’t think of anyone else who was more suitable to take it on. I’ve been here since the beginning, and two years ago I won top general manager of the company. I couldn’t say no.”

Davis said the transition is under way in a process that he likened to a “rent-to-buy” arrangement, in which Cameron Mitchell will continue to be involved in management for a time before he takes over full ownership. www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 43

4/21/08

10:02 AM

Page 44

people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Not being a chef like Lamas or Corbett, Davis doesn’t plan a major overhaul of the restaurant’s menu.“The menu won’t change much, but there will be subtle changes,” he said. “Our menu is great, everything is made from scratch, but it isn’t the healthiest.

We’ll add more healthy options.”

According to Davis, one of the restaurant’s greatest assets is its staff. “I think everyone is the best at what they do — from the people at the front door to the people in the kitchen.”

44 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Davis said he likes the fact that all of the new restaurants opening in the East End are different. He believes that the demographic is big enough for everyone to find a following. F&D

▲

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

Martini’s Antipasto platter of tomatoes, roasted peppers, feta cheese, wood-fired asparagus, artichoke hearts, pepperoni, Genoa salami, fresh mozzarella, pepperoncini peppers and marinated olives.

32-45_Profiles_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:02 AM

Page 45

46-47_Beer_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:05 AM

liquids hip hops

Page 46

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

R

e Where’s my al B ? eer

I

I’m off to enjoy a stellar evening at one of the city’s top restaurants, fully prepared to damn the expense and enjoy the very finest in cuisine, libations, service and ambience.

The menu intriguingly boasts contemporary interpretations of dishes from the world over, and the wine list is justifiably extensive, with a knowledgeable sommelier on hand to guide me through grapes, regions and pairings. A succulent selection of premium spirits stretches behind the bar as far as the eye can see. The impeccably attired waitstaff is prompt and professional, and the comfortable physical atmosphere is simply nonpareil, fully suiting the special night ahead.

In fact, everything about the experience screams of “top,” “finest” and “best” — until I ask for the beer list (assuming that, for once, one actually exists). Lamentably, it enumerates the usual pedestrian choices, including the “big three” golden-colored mass-market brands; their flavorless lowcalorie brethren; a handful of taste-alike Eurolagers; and finally Guinness, Bass and perhaps Sierra Nevada.

And I say to myself, yet again: “What gives?”

Why is it so often the case that the finest tables in this and other American cities are prepared to go to unprecedented lengths to provide the most memorable experience possible — except when it comes to their beer offerings?

Why is beer so seldom acknowledged as a legitimate component that should be stocked and presented correctly before an establishment is even considered to be upper tier?

Why is the management of top tables willing to tirelessly educate, push the envelope and challenge the patron in 46 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

terms of foodstuffs, wine and spirits, and yet when it comes to beer, meekly protest that nothing can be done, and customers must be given the “plonk” that they (presumably) want?

Don’t just take it from me. Consider this brief passage about “real” beer from brewmaster and writer Garrett Oliver’s stellar book, “The Brewmaster’s Table”: Real beer can do amazing things with food, and it goes places where wine cannot go. Don’t get me wrong — I love wine … wine is wonderful. But let’s be honest — it cannot do everything. Real beer can do everything.

“Real” beer can, indeed; and I quote Oliver’s words so often that it begins to become clear that there is something eerily similar to Plato’s “allegory of the cave” present in any discussion of beer and fine dining — because while there are numerous possible explanations as to why beer almost inevitably gets short shrift at top tables, ultimately it’s all depressingly simple: One cannot begin to see the possibilities of real beer in this context if one has no clue what real beer is.

This raises another conundrum:Who’s lagging behind in the knowledge game? Is it the consumers, or management?

Given that sales of craft beer have grown in double digits at least two years

running, it would appear that consumer demand and savvy both are on steady and predictable upswings. It further stands to reason that much the same willingness to spend extra for quality exists in the pocketbook of the up-market beer consumer as in those of fine dining habitués and wine enthusiasts.

If management is missing these cues, is it an example of disconnect in the front of the house and its bar managers, or is it because the back of the house isn’t engaging with the emerging beer program with the same intensity as with more traditional wine and spirits?

Real beer is now readily available, in a variety of styles and in most areas of the country, and an intelligent short beer list can be assembled with a minimum of effort. The list need not be huge, but the establishment must nurture it with the same pro-active stance that it treats the other aspects of its face to the public.

The fundamental requirement of an intelligent short beer list is to offer a variety

46-47_Beer_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:05 AM

Page 47

of beer styles, not just a variety of brands, and so knowing the difference is an obvious point of importance.There needn’t be more than a half-dozen draft spouts, if that; there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a polished, short bottle list with no drafts at all if circumstance dictates.

Here’s a cheat sheet that outlines the basics. To be sure, it represents one beer enthusiast’s opinion, and others may feel differently, but it’s a place to start, with plenty of flavorful options for pairing with food and drinking for pleasure before and after the meal.

Take it with you the next time you dine, and make your own comparisons.

CLASSIC LAGER STYLES German origins, bottom fermented, clean in character.

Continental Pilsner: Pilsner Urquell; Bitburger Pils. Dark German lager: Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel; Kostritzer Schwarzbier. Doppelbock: Weltenberg Asam Bock; Celebrator.

DIVERSE ALES Top fermented, with potential flavor spectrums ranging widely.

PHOTO BY DAN DRY

Belgian wheat: Hoegaarden; Wittekerke. German wheat: Schneider Weisse; Weihenstephaner.

English/American hop-accented ales: Fuller’s ESB; Arrogant Bastard; Bell’s Two Hearted; Red Seal.

Stouts (assorted): Left Hand Milk Stout; Bell’s Kalamazoo Stout; Guinness Extra Stout; Rogue XS Imperial Stout.

BELGIAN ALES Top fermented, and a category unto itself.

There is a huge array of Belgians, including Duvel, Gulden Draak, Rodenbach and other Flemish specialties … Trappists like Chimay (red, white or blue) and Westmalle … eclectic Wallonians (La Chouffe, McChouffe, Saison Dupont) … and don’t forget the proliferation of American craft-brewed Belgian styles from Ommegang, Avery, Jolly Pumpkin, Allagash and elsewhere.

LOCALLY BREWED CRAFT BEERS Finally, it should go without saying that it makes sense for those seeking a fresh, stylistically varied, seasonal, rotating draft selection to buy and drink locally, patronizing the many excellent small breweries and brewpubs in Louisville and around the region.

This list includes Bluegrass Brewing Co. (BBC) in St. Matthews and downtown; the BBC Tap Room on East Main Street; Browning’s in Slugger Field and Cumberland Brews on Bardstown Road; and New Albanian Brewing Co. in New Albany, Ind., which I have the honor of serving as publican. Craft brewers in the region include Bloomington Brewing Co. and Upland Brewing in Bloomington, Ind., and Alltech’s Lexington Brewing Co. in Lexington, Ky. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 47

48-49_Coffee_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

liquids coffee

9:06 AM

Page 48

BY DAVID LANGE

A quick look at some of the most common I’ve been in the coffee business for more than 16 years and I have come across a lot of myths about coffee, through conversations and in print. When I teach coffee classes, I am inundated with questions — and I’ve discovered that people hold some very interesting misconceptions about coffee (and tea).

Coffee tastes best when it’s stored in the refrigerator > WRONG. The best way to keep a reasonably small amount of coffee fresh is at room temperature in an opaque, airtight container just large enough to accommodate the beans, says the National Coffee Association.You want to keep the beans away from four hazards: air, moisture, heat or cold, and light. Beans in the refrigerator are not only exposed to cold and moisture, but they are picking up odors from last night’s leftovers too!

Espresso has more caffeine than regular coffee > WRONG. This is a total misconception.You would have to gulp three or four single shots of espresso to equal the caffeine in one 12-ounce cup of coffee.

Espresso actually has less caffeine than drip coffee. Espresso has a shorter brewing time: less than 30 seconds, versus five or six minutes for drip brewing.The longer brewing time for drip coffee allows more water-soluble caffeine to be extracted into the cup.

So if it’s a caffeine buzz you’re looking for, you’re better off getting your fix from a regular cup of Colombian coffee than the Italian “shot.”

Espresso is a specific variety of coffee bean > WRONG. Espresso is not a bean at all. It’s the end result of a specific brewing process. Espresso is pressure-brewed in an espresso machine. Some retailers and coffeehouses may try to convince you otherwise, but in fact you can start with any type of coffee bean — Kona, Kenya AA, Blue Mountain or Columbian — and brew delicious espresso.The better the bean, the better the espresso!

Espresso is a specific blend or roast > WRONG. Roasters peddling beans know a good thing when they see it, so many of them are catering to the particular palates of espresso lovers. While there’s no specific type of bean that “makes” espresso, certain blends or roasts do taste and perform better when brewed as such. This is why so many roasters and importers have created their own “Espresso Roast.”

Drinking coffee has some health benefits > YES AND NO. This is a debate that has gone back and forth. Like so many good things, moderation is key in drinking coffee. Some good news: Recent studies have linked coffee consumption to a reduced risk of liver and colon cancer, Type Two Diabetes and Parkinson’s disease. That’s because coffee contains tannins and antioxidants that are good for the heart and arteries.The caffeine in coffee helps reduce headaches and reduces the risk of asthma attacks because it improves circulation within the heart. On the other side of the debate, if you drink five or more 5-ounce cups of coffee daily, you risk increased nervousness and even a rapid heartbeat. Doctors’ advice varies, but pregnant women, those with heart conditions and people with stomach ulcers may be advised against drinking large amounts of coffee.

48 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

48-49_Coffee_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:06 AM

Page 49

Espresso is supposed to be bitter > WRONG. Many coffee lovers, trying espresso for the first time, find it bitter and assume it’s supposed to taste like that. Not true. Although you do stand a fair chance of encountering a bitter shot of espresso, it’s only because you’ve had it prepared incorrectly. If poor equipment is used, inconsistencies in the brewing process are likely. An unskilled barista might grind the coffee too fine, resulting in a bitter, over-extracted “long shot.” But a skilled barista can pull a shot of espresso that is just as sweet — if not sweeter — than brewed coffee. A well-pulled espresso should yield a harmonious combination of tastes that balance acid, sweet, creamy, and bitter flavors on the palate and leave a lasting, pleasant aftertaste.

More expensive coffee tastes better > MAYBE. Some coffees do demand a higher price because of their higher quality. One prime and pricey example: Cup of Excellence coffees, such as Panama’s famed Hacienda La Esmeralda, recently sold at auction for $130 per pound. Other sought-after varieties, such as Jamaican Blue Mountain or Hawaiian Kona coffee, don’t always live up to their reputation or astronomical prices, thanks to marketing hype. Here’s a bizarre example of overpriced coffee: Indonesian Kopi Luwak, which runs $200 a pound or more, is known for its unusual processing: The beans are eaten, digested and passed by a civet, where gatherers pick up the excreted beans and roast them. Delectable!

Shiny, oily coffee beans are better than dull, dry-looking beans > WRONG. The oily surface you see on coffee is not a sign of freshness. It is a sign of over-roasting. Excessive heat roasting allows the coffee oils — which contain most of the complex aromas and flavors of the coffee — to escape to the surface of the bean.These oils coagulate on the surface of the bean, where they impart a shine but leave the coffee with a bitter, stale taste. Lighter roasts retain coffee’s uniquely aromatic oils within the bean, where they provide the flavor you want.

Packaging can keep coffee fresh > YES AND NO. Coffee is a food product, and as such, it is perishable. At best, you can slow down staling with good packaging. Fresh, whole-bean coffee vacuum-packed in heavy foil-laminated bags with a one-way valve should be used within four to six weeks of the roast date.The two-year “use by” dates on coffee bags in your grocery store are unrealistic at best.

Rather than relying on packaging to keep coffee fresh, it’s better to buy more frequently in smaller quantities.You’ll get the best flavor by buying whole-bean coffee and waiting to grind beans until just before brewing. Ground coffee becomes stale 100 times faster than whole beans.

Decaffeinated coffee/tea is caffeine-free > NOT QUITE. The decaffeination process in coffee and tea effectively removes about 97 percent of the caffeine, but 2 to 5 milligrams of caffeine remains in the average cup of decaf coffee.

Tea has more caffeine than coffee > WRONG. Actually, tea has only about one-half to one-third the caffeine of a similar-size cup of coffee. According to the federal Food & Drug Administration, a 5-ounce cup of tea has less than 40 milligrams of caffeine, while a 5-ounce cup of coffee has between 80 to 115 milligrams of caffeine.

The British are the world’s leading tea consumers > WRONG. Actually, it’s the Irish who lead the world in tea consumption per capita.The Emerald Isle consumes 7.1 pounds per person annually; the British 5.74 pounds and Americans a puny three-fourths pound. F&D www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 49

50-53_Sullivan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:46 AM

Page 50

recipes top chef recipes

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

FOUR OF THE SEASON’S FRESHEST RECIPES

S

Spring is here, Louisville’s popular farmers’ markets have returned for the season, and soon we’ll be plucking produce from our backyard gardens. To celebrate the season, Food & Dining invited two Sullivan University chefs to get fresh with us, and they responded in full measure, offering four recipes that take advantage of seasonal bounty.

“My first thought when we were invited to do this was gardens,” said Anthony Lorie, executive chef of Sullivan’s Juleps Catering.

And gardens, he said, evoke happy memories of his grandmother’s garden in London, Kentucky, and particularly its ripe, luscious tomatoes. “Along with that and the amazing choices of tomatoes, especially heirlooms,

Duxelle Stuffed Ravioli and Wild Mushroom Ragout with Beurre Rouge

50 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

locally, I came up with the tomato tartare stack. Nothing beats fresh tomato salad when it’s getting warm out.”

Lorie’s other recipe, mushroom duxelle ravioli, speaks more of the city than the farm. “The mushroom is one of my favorite items to use in cooking,” he said.

“There are so many varieties and so many ways to buy them — dried, canned, fresh — their uses are endless.You can use them or find them in just about every form of cooking anywhere in the world.”

Aaron Adams, sous chef at Winston’s Restaurant at Sullivan, chose diverse directions for his two dishes, too. “I wanted to do a dish which is for cooks by cooks,” he said,“but I also had to do a dish

which felt like summer. I ended up compromising and doing two dishes, one (blackberry and passionfruit sorbets with crispy tuiles) that was cold and light, and the other (bacon, liver and tomato surprise with foie gras in a brioche “box”) that was rich and decadent.”

“I like using the best products available while still being cost effective,” Adams said.

“The advantage of locally grown products is that I can choose the best of what this region has to offer. The majority of my produce is grown locally, but … I have to go someplace else for pineapples. I honestly feel that’s the key: Use as many local items as you can, but accept the fact that your region won’t have the best of everything.”

50-53_Sullivan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:46 AM

Page 51

Grilled Jumbo Shrimp, Tomato Tartare and Goat Cheese Stack with Capicola Crisp

BLT Surprise: Bacon, Liver and Tomato

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 51

50-53_Sullivan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:46 AM

CHEF ANTHONY LORIE

GRILLED JUMBO SHRIMP, TOMATO TARTARE AND GOAT CHEESE STACK WITH CAPICOLA CRISP (SERVES 4) 1 1 1 3 1 1 8 1 2 4 6

pint cherry tomatoes pint yellow pear tomatoes tablespoon fresh basil, chopped tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil garlic clove, minced teaspoon shallot, minced uncooked, peeled de-veined jumbo shrimp (about 1 ounce each) tablespoon kosher salt ounces mache thin slices capicola (Italian deli meat, similar to ham) ounces goat cheese Salt Black pepper

First, make the tomato tartare: Cut all tomatoes into quarters; place red in one bowl and yellow in another. Add 1/2 tablespoon of kosher salt to each bowl and toss.

Let stand 15 minutes.

Transfer tomatoes to a strainer set over a large bowl; let stand 45 minutes to drain, tossing the mixture often.

Transfer drained tomatoes to two medium bowls (red in one and yellow in the other); stir in one tablespoon of the olive oil, half the basil, garlic and shallot in each bowl. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Set aside.

Prepare grill (medium-high heat). Brush shrimp with olive oil; sprinkle with kosher salt and pepper. Grill shrimp for 11/2 minutes, turn shrimp over and grill just until opaque in center, about 11/2 minutes longer and set aside.

Place mache in sauté pan and sauté with a tablespoon of olive oil till slightly wilted, add salt and pepper to taste and set aside. Fry the capicola in the same pan till crisp and remove to paper towel to drain excess oil.

52 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 52

Assembly: Place one-fourth of the mache on the bottom of a plate, followed by one-fourth of the red tomato tartare, one-fourth of the goat cheese and one-fourth of the yellow tomato tartare. Place one slice of the fried capicola on top followed by two of the grilled shrimp. Repeat for each dish.

DUXELLE STUFFED RAVIOLI AND WILD MUSHROOM RAGOUT WITH BEURRE ROUGE (SERVES 4) Ravioli: 2 pounds mushrooms, mixed varieties 3 shallots, minced 3 /4 cup Sherry vinegar 1 /2 teaspoon savory 2 eggs, beaten 24 2-by-2-inch sheets fresh pasta (wonton wrappers will work) Add all ravioli ingredients except the pasta sheets into a large sauté pan and cook until liquid is gone. Cool the filling. Place one pasta sheet flat and add 1/2 tablespoon of the filling on its center. Brush egg wash around the edges of the pasta sheet, then place another sheet on top and press edges all around to form a seal. Repeat to make 12 ravioli.

Mushroom Ragout: 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, sliced thin 1 pound mixed wild mushrooms 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage leaves Salt Black pepper In a large heavy skillet heat the butter and oil over moderate heat until butter is melted. Then cook the onion in it, stirring, until softened. Stir in the mushrooms, garlic, sage, and salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring, about 15 minutes, or until liquid is evaporated and set aside.

Beurre Rouge Sauce: 1 /2 cup dry red wine 1 /4 cup minced shallots 1 /2 teaspoon red raspberry vinegar 8 tablespoons unsalted butter Salt Black pepper

Bring wine, shallots, and vinegar to boil in heavy small saucepan. Reduce heat to low and simmer until liquid is reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 5 minutes. Add butter, one tablespoon at a time, whisking until each addition is melted before adding the next. Continue whisking until butter is thick.

(Note: Do not overheat, or sauce may separate.) Season with salt and pepper to taste, remove from burner and hold.

Assembly: Place the ravioli in boiling water and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until they float to the top. Drain and place three in each of four dishes. Top each with one-fourth cup of the Mushroom Ragout mixture and drizzle with the Beurre Rouge sauce.

Garnish and serve.

CHEF AARON ADAMS

BLT SURPRISE: BACON, LIVER AND TOMATO (SERVES 6) BLT Surprise: 6 brioches, cut into 4-inch cubes 1 cup Pesto Aioli (recipe below) 1 pound thick-sliced bacon, cooked and cut in julienne slices 2 tomatoes, sliced 1 lobe of foie gras, sliced Pesto Aioli: 4 ounces fresh basil leaves 2 garlic cloves 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons pistachios 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup mayonnaise First, make the Pesto Aioli: Place basil, garlic, parmesan, and pistachios in food processor.While machine is running drizzle in the olive oil. Process until the ingredients are emulsified.

Combine with the mayonnaise. Do not over-emulsify, or the sauce will break.

Reserve in squeeze bottle.

50-53_Sullivan_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

10:46 AM

To create the box (see photo), first cut brioche into 4" wide by 4" long by 4" tall box.Then cut a 1/2-inch slice off the top of each cube and set aside to use as top of box. Now hollow out each box (think canoe) leaving 1/2-inch on all four sides and bottom.

Toast box on all five sides and separate top piece in a saucepan with a little butter.

Squeeze some pesto aioli into bottom of box. Reheat bacon pieces, place in bottom layer of box. Sear tomato slices, place inside of box as middle layer.

Sear foie gras slices on both sides until browned. Use enough to form a solid layer inside the box. Place top of box back on cube, and turn over onto plate.

BLACKBERRY AND PASSION FRUIT TUILES

Page 53

For 2 1 /2 1 /4 10 1 /2 2 8 1 /2 1 /2

the Tuiles: cups all-purpose flour teaspoon salt teaspoon black pepper, ground ounces butter, softened cup sugar tablespoons honey large eggs whites cup crushed pistachio cup toasted black/white sesame seeds

In a mixer, beat the butter until creamy, then add sugar and honey.

Reduce speed to low, and slowly add the dry ingredients. Set speed to high and add the egg whites, one at a time.

Beat until smooth.

Place an 1/8 -inch-thick triangle mold on a sheet tray lined with parchment paper.

Using an offset spatula, spread batter evenly into the mold. Remove the mold and repeat.

Sprinkle each batter triangle alternately with pistachio and sesame seeds.

Toast in a 350 degree oven for 3 minutes or until light golden. Remove from baking sheet and, while they are still warm and flexible, carefully wrap each around a cone mold. Allow to cool on a wire rack. F&D

Blackberry and Passion Fruit Tuiles

(SERVES 12) Blackberry Cabernet Sorbet: 4 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 pints blackberries 1 cup Cabernet red wine 1 /8 teaspoon ground ginger Make a simple syrup by heating 2 cups of the water and the sugar together until they boil. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then remove from heat and cool.

Combine berries, Cabernet and 2 cups of water and cook over medium low heat until berries break down.

Combine berry mixture and simple syrup in a blender with ginger. Puree, strain, and cool. Then freeze in ice-cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Passion Fruit Sorbet: 4 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 cups passion fruit puree 1 teaspoon sea salt Make simple syrup (see recipe above).

Combine puree, 2 cups of water, and salt and heat together. Combine this mixture with the simple syrup in a blender; strain and cool. Then freeze in ice-cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 53

54-57_Guide Index_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

▲

Alphabetical Index

9:08 AM

Page 54

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

Cuisine Style

RESTAURANT

dining guide

AFRICAN 74 ASIAN/CHINESE 75 ASIAN/FILIPINO 76 ASIAN/JAPANESE 76 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 77 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 77 BAR & GRILL 73 BARBECUE 72 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 62 CAFÉS 62 CAFETERIAS 69 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 80 CASUAL DINING 65 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 69 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 78 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 78 EUROPEAN/IRISH 78 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 78 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 79 FINE DINING 58 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 68 INDIAN 79 MEXICAN 80 MICROBREWERIES 74 MIDDLE EASTERN 79 PIZZA 69 SANDWICH/DELI 71 SEAFOOD 64 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 81 STEAKHOUSE 65 UPSCALE CASUAL 59

Area Maps MAP # DIRECTION

82 PG #

Overview (Index)

82

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Downtown

84

Near East

85

East

86

South East

87

East

88

South East

89

North East

90

North East

90

Far East

91

10 11 12 13 14 15 16

North East

91

South East

91

South

92

South West

93

Indiana

94

Indiana

95

Indiana

95

(Downtown Louisville) (Highlands – Crescent Hill) (St. Matthews) (Hikes Point – Buechel) (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon) (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) (Westport Rd.) (Middletown) (Prospect)

(Fern Creek)

(Airport – Okolona) (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) (Clarksville) (Jeffersonville)

54 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 75 19th Green Pub & Grill 73 211 Clover Lane 58 60 West Bistro 59 610 Magnolia 58 8 China Buffet 75 A Nice Restaurant 65 A Taste of China 75 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Al Watan 79 Alexander’s Pizzeria 69 Amazing Grace Deli 71 Amerigo 78 Amici´ 78 Angelina’s Café 78 Angie’s Café 62 Angilo’s Pizza 69 Angio’s Restaurant 70 Ann’s by the River 69 Annie Café 77 Annie’s Pizza 70 Another Place 71 Anytimes 65 Applebee’s 65 Arirang 76 Arni’s Pizza 70 Aroma Café 62 Artemisia 59 Asian Buffet 75 Asiatique 59 Atomic Saucer 81 Atrium Café 62 August Moon 75 Austin’s 59 Avalon 59 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 65 Babby’s Steakhouse 65 Backyard Burger 71 Bake’s Barbeque 72 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 75 Bank Shot Billiards 71 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 68 Basa Modern Vietnamese 59 Baxter Station 62 Bazos Mexican Grill 80 bd’s Mongolian Grill 75 Bean Street Café 81 Bearno’s Pizza 70 Beef O’Brady’s 73 Behar Café 78 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 76 Bendoya Sushi Bar 76 Bentley’s Sports Grille 73 Big Al’s Beeritaville 73 Big Dave’s Outpost 73 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 68 Big Willie’s Pizza Pub 70 Bistro 301 62 Blimpie’s Subs 71 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Blue Dog Bakery 62 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 62 Blue Mule Sports Café 73 Blue Nile Ethiopian 74 Bluegrass Bistro 62 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 74 Bonefish Grill 64 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 72 Bosna-Mak 78 Bountiful Bread Bakery Café 63 Bourbons Bistro 62 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 72 Bravo!

59 Breadworks 81 Brendans 78 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Brix Wine Bar 62 Brown Bag Deli 70 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 73 Browning’s Brewery 74 Bruno’s Pizza 70 Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub 70 Buca Di Beppo 78 Buck’s 58 Buckhead Mountain Grill 65 Buffalo Madison Coffee Co. 81 Buffalo Wild Wings 73

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Desserts/Bakery 16 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 5 European/Italian 1 European/Italian 5 Cafés 3 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 7 Casual Dining [9] Asian/Korean 9 Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Coffee House 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 5 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6 Barbecue 13 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3 Asian/Chinese 6 Coffee House 14 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 6 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Microbreweries 1, 3 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 6, 8, 9 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10, 16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 5 Microbreweries 1 Pizza 14 Pizza 12 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 4, 12, 16 Coffee House 14, 15 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Buffalo Wings & Rings 73 Bulldog Café 63 The Butterfly Garden Café 63 Cachito Mio Cuban Café 80 Café 360 79 Café Fraiche 63 Café J 63 Café Lou Lou 62 Café Magnolia 66 Café Metro 58 Café Mimosa 77 Café Thuy Van 77 Caffe Classico 81 Caffé Perusa 58 California Pizza Kitchen 66 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 80 Captain’s Quarters 66 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 66 Carly Rae’s 66 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 64 Carolyn’s 68 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 78 Cat Box Deli 71 Caviar Japanese Rest.

59 Champions Grill 66 Champion’s Sports Rest. 73 Charlestown Pizza Co. 70 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 73 Check’s Café 68 Cheddar Box Café 63 Cheddar’s Casual Café 66 Cheesecake Factory 60 Chez Seneba African 74 Chicago Gyro 71 Chick Inn 66 The Chicken House 68 Chicken King 68 Chili’s 66 China 1 75 China Buffet 75 China Castle 75 China Garden 75 China Inn 75 China King 75 China Sea Buffet 75 Chinese Chef 75 Chinese Express 75 Chong Garden 75 Chopsticks 75 Chopsticks House 75 Chrisanta’s Café 63 Chung King 75 Ciano’s 71 Cici’s 70 City Café 63 City Wok 75 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 72 Clarksville Seafood 64 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 70 Club Grotto 60 Coach Lamp 60 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Coffee Treat Café 81 Colonnade Café 63 Come Back Inn 78 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 58 Corner Café 60 Cottage Café 68 Cottage Inn 68 Crave Café & Catering 63 Cravings a la Carte 69 Creekside Outpost & Café 63 Crystal Chinese 75 Cuba Libre 80 Culver’s 66 Cumberland Brews 74 Cunningham’s 66 Cyclers Café 63 Danish Express 71 Danny Boy’s 73 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 70 DaVinci by Lentini’s 78 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 79 Del Frisco’s 65 Delta Restaurant 73 Derby Café 63 Derby City Espresso 81 Derby Dinner Playhouse 69 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 71 Diamond Pub & Billiards 73 Dinner Is Done 68 Dino’s Down to Lunch 71 Ditto’s Grill 62

MAP #

Bar & Grill 8 Cafés 12 Cafés 2 Caribbean/Cuban 8 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Coffee House 2 Fine Dining 6 Casual Dining 5 Mexican 6 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 16 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee House 14 Coffee House 1 Coffee House 1 Cafés 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban 14 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Bar & Grill 16 Pizza 2 European/Italian 5 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Coffee House 1 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 3 Home Style/Southern 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2

54-57_Guide Index_spr08.qxp

RESTAURANT

4/21/08

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

9:08 AM

Page 55

MAP #

Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Djuli 78 European/Bosnian 12 Dmitri’s Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Domino’s Pizza 70 Pizza [20] Don Pablos 80 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 71 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Double Dragon 75 Asian/Chinese 2,3 Double Dragon II 75 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 75 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Dragon Garden 75 Asian/Chinese 2 Dublin’s Cellar 74 Bar & Grill 2 Dutch’s Tavern 74 Bar & Grill 3 Dynasty Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Eggroll Machine 74 Asian/Chinese 2 El Burrito de Oro 80 Mexican 15 El Caporal 80 Mexican 4,6,12,15 El Mundo 80 Mexican 2 El Nopal 80 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12, 14 El Nopalito 80 Mexican 2, 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 80 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 80 Mexican 13 El Tarasco 80 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 80 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 75 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 75 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 58 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Fine Dining 3 Erika’s German Rest.

78 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 63 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 80 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Eva Mae’s Creekside 66 Casual Dining 7 Expressions of You 81 Coffee House 7 The Falafel House 79 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 72 Barbecue 6, 15 Fast Break Pizza 70 Pizza 8 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 70 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 9 Federal Hill 63 Cafés 14 Feed Bag Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Ferd Grisanti 78 European/Italian 6 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 80 Mexican 8 Fifth Quarter 65 Steakhouse 12 Finley’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 1 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 72 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 Fireside Bar & Grill 66 Casual Dining 14 First Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 64 Seafood 2 The Fishery 64 Seafood 3 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 74 Bar & Grill 1 Flanagans Ale House 74 Bar & Grill 2 Fork in the Road 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Fountain Room 66 Casual Dining 1 Four King’s Café 74 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 74 Bar & Grill 3 Frank’s Steak House 65 Steakhouse 5, 16 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 7 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 70 Pizza 1 Frolio’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 76 Asian/Japanese 8, 9 Gasthaus 78 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 2 Germantown Café 63 Cafés 1 Gerstle’s Place 74 Bar & Grill 3 Golden Buddha 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 68 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 68 Home Style/Southern 8 Granville Inn 74 Bar & Grill 1 Grape Leaf 79 Middle Eastern 2 Grapevine Pantry 63 Cafés 9 Great American Grill 74 Bar & Grill 12 Great Wall 75 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Hall’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 76 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy Dragon 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Hard Rock Café 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Havana Rumba 80 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Hazelwood Restaurant 68 Home Style/Southern 13 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Coffee House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Henry Clay Café 66 Casual Dining 1 Hero’s New York Pizza Pub 70 Pizza 6 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Coffee House 1, 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Hill Street Fish Fry 64 Seafood 1 Hitching Post Inn 74 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Coffee House 14 Homerun Burgers & Fries 66 Casual Dining 6 Hometown Buffet 68 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 70 Pizza 7, 9 Honeybaked Café 71 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11 www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 55

54-57_Guide Index_spr08.qxp

RESTAURANT

4/21/08

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Hong Kong Chinese 75 Hong Kong Fast Food 75 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 74 Hooters 66 Hot Dog Heaven 71 Howl at the Moon 69 Hunan Wok 75 Ice Breakers 74 Ichiban Samurai 76 IHOP 67 Incredible Dave’s 69 Indi’s Restaurant 68 India Palace 79 Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub 74 Intermezzo American Café 60 The Irish Rover 78 Iroquois Pizza 70 Islamorada Fish Co. 64 J. Alexander’s 60 J. Graham’s Café 63 J. Gumbo’s 79 J. Harrods 60 Jack Fry’s 60 Jack’s Lounge 62 Jade Garden Buffet 75 Jade Palace 75 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 74 Jane’s Cafeteria 69 Jarfi’s at Mellwood 67 Jarfi’s Bistro 60 Jasmine 75 Jason’s Deli 71 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 69 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 65 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 63 Jersey Mike’s Subs 71 Jersey’s Café 74 Jessie’s Restaurant 68 Jimbo’s BBQ 72 Jimmy and Richie’s 74 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 71 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 70 Joe Huber Restaurant 69 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 64 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 80 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 67 John E’s 60 JoJo’s Fish Market 64 JP’s Pub & Grub 74 Juanita’s Burger Boy 71 Jucy’s Smokehouse 72 Juke Box 67 Jumbo Buffet 75 Just Fresh Bakery & Café 71 Kaelin’s Restaurant 67 Kansai Japanese Rest.

76 Karem’s Grill & Pub 67 Karma Café 67 Kashmir Indian 79 Kayrouz Café 63 Kentucky BBQ Co. 72 Kern’s Korner 67 Kimi’s Asian Bistro 76 King Buffet 75 King Wok 75 Kingfish 64 Kings Fast Food 69 King’s Fried Chicken 67 Kip’s Kove 64 Kobe Japanese Steak 76 Koreana II 76 Kreso’s Restaurant 78 KT’s 60 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 62 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 79 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 78 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Tapatia 80 La Vida Java Coffee Co. 80 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 69 Le Relais 58 Lee’s Korean 76 Legend’s 67 Lemongrass Café 77 Liang’s Café 75 The Lighthouse 74 Lilly’s 58 Limestone 58 Ling Ling 75 Little Caesar’s Pizza 70 Little Chef 71 Liu’s Garden 75 Logan’s Roadhouse 65

9:08 AM

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 12 Bar & Grill 12 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Bar & Grill 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Casual Dining 15 Entertainment Dining 8 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Bar & Grill 7 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Seafood 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 1, 2,5, 6, 8,12,13 Upscale Casual 10 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 2 Asian/Chinese 9 Sandwich/Deli 5 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Bar & Grill 5 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3, 6 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Bar & Grill 11 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 3 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 15 Casual Dining 8 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Barbecue 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 6 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Seafood 12 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Seafood 12 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 European/Bosnian 12 Upscale Casual 2 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 8, 12 Mexican 14 Mexican 2 Coffee House 7 Cafeterias 14 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 3, 9 Asian/Chinese 8 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Fine Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15

56 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 56

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Macca’s Florida Seafood Maggie’s Neighborhood Bar Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Street Café & Treats Maker’s Mark Lounge Manhattan Grill Mark’s Feed Store Market on Market Marekt Street Fish House Martini Italian Bistro Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Middletown Bagel & Deli Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Nero’s New Albanian Brewing Co. New China New Direction Bar & Grill Ninny’s-N-New Albany Nios Norma Jean’s Trackside North End Café NV Tavern O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub Oak Street Pizza The Oakroom Oceanside Restaurant Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border Onion Rest.Tea House Orchid Asian Café Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Our Best Restaurant Outback Steakhouse P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Papa Johns Pizza Park Place Restaurant Passtime Fish House Pat’s Steak House The Patron Paul’s Fruit Market Penn Station

MAP #

80 Mexican 12 65 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 80 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 70 Pizza 6 75 Asian/Chinese 4 69 Entertainment Dining 1 70 Pizza 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 16 67 Casual Dining 2 70 Pizza 15 64 Seafood 7 74 Bar & Grill 6 77 Asian/Thai 16 76 Asian/Japanese 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 63 Cafés 14 60 Upscale Casual 1 67 Casual Dining 1 72 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 64 Seafood 14 78 European/Italian 8 67 Casual Dining 1 67 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 64 Seafood 9 72 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 78 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 63 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 4, 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 74 Bar & Grill 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 9 64 Seafood 13 67 Casual Dining 5 64 Seafood 8 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 11, 15 79 European/Spanish 7 78 European/Irish 2 67 Casual Dining 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 65 Steakhouse 1 70 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 69 Home Style/Southern 13 63 Cafés 1 73 Bar & Grill 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 69 Entertainment Dining 12 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 61 Upscale Casual 3 61 Upscale Casual 14 70 Pizza 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 74 Bar & Grill 8 69 Home Style/Southern 14 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 67 Casual Dining 7 64 Cafés 2 74 Bar & Grill 2 67 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 69 Home Style/Southern 13 78 European/Irish 2 70 Pizza 1 58 Fine Dining 1 79 Middle Eastern 4 75 Asian/Japanese 2 67 Casual Dining 6 81 Coffee House 1 78 European/Italian 1 61 Upscale Casual 9 73 Barbecue 11 78 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 76 Asian/Chinese 14 76 Asian/Chinese 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 9 76 Asian/Chinese 3 76 Asian/Chinese 12 70 Pizza 2 76 Asian/Japanese 2 67 Casual Dining 1 69 Home Style/Southern 12 65 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 61 Upscale Casual 5 70 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 79 European/Spanish 2 76 Asian/Chinese 10 72 Sandwich/Deli3, 6, 8, 12, 15 70 Pizza [30] 58 Fine Dining 1 64 Seafood 6 65 Steakhouse 2 61 Upscale Casual 3 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 72 Sandwich/Deli [14]

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Peppers Bar and Grill 67 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 78 Pho Binh Minh 77 Piccadilly Cafeteria 69 Picnicaters BBQ 73 Pig and a Peppermint 64 Pig City BBQ 73 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 76 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 73 Pita Delights 79 Pizza By The Guy 70 Pizza Hut 70 Pizza King 70 Pizza Place 70 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 65 Porcini 78 Portico 59 Prado’s Pizza 70 Primo 78 Proof On Main 59 Prospect Fish Market 64 Pub Louisville 67 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 78 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 74 Queue Café 64 Quick Wok 76 Quizno’s Subs 72 Rafferty’s of Louisville 68 Ramsi’s Café 62 Raw Sushi Lounge 76 Ray Parrella’s 78 Ray’s Monkey House 81 Red Pepper Chinese Cuisine 76 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 68 Red Star Tavern 61 Red Sun Chinese 76 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 73 River City Coffee House 81 Rivue 61 Road to Morroco 79 RockWall Bistro 61 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Roosters 68 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 76 Royal India 79 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 73 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Ruby Tuesday 68 The Rudyard Kipling 68 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 65 Rustic Frog 74 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 65 Ryan’s Steakhouse 65 Saffron’s 79 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Sahara Café 79 Saint’s 74 Sakura Blue 76 Sala Thai 77 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 81 Sam’s Food & Spirits 68 Sammi Jo’s Sandwiches & More 72 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 76 Savino’s Italian Food 78 Schlotzsky’s Deli 72 Scotty’s Ribs 73 Senor Iguana’s 80 Sesame Chinese 76 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 59 Shack In The Back BBQ 73 Shady Lane Café 72 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 76 Shalimar Indian 79 Shane’s Rib Shack 73 Shanghai Restaurant 76 Sharom’s 65 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 78 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 79 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 68 Sichuan Garden 76 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 70 Simply Thai 77 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 70 Sister Bean’s 81 Sitar 79 Skip Jack’s 65 Skyline Chili 68 Slice of New York 70 Small Times Bakery 81 Smokey Bones BBQ 73 Snappy Tomato 70

MAP #

Casual Dining 1 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Cafés 10 Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Pizza 9 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 European/Italian 3 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Chinese 2 Casual Dining 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4 Barbecue 1 Coffee House 2 Upscale Casual 1 Middle Eastern 1 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 12 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Indian 3 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Bar & Grill 14 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 13, 15 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 3 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 European/Italian 13 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Mexican 15 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2, 8 Barbecue 12 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 Seafood 11 European/Irish 2, 7 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 9 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Asian/Thai 3 Pizza 15 Coffee House 13 Indian 2 Seafood 15 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Pizza 6 Desserts/Bakery 4 Barbecue 6 Pizza [7]

54-57_Guide Index_spr08.qxp

RESTAURANT

4/21/08

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

9:08 AM

Page 57

MAP #

Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 South Side Inn 69 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 70 Pizza 2 Sports Page Grill 74 Bar & Grill 6 Sportsville Grill & Bar 68 Casual Dining 12 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 65 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 69 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [27] Starving Artist Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 68 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 74 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 65 Steakhouse 8 Strawberry Patch Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 69 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 74 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 64 Cafés 2 Sweet Surrender 64 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Bueno 80 Mexican 16 Taco Tico 81 Mexican 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 81 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 74 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 80 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 76 Asian/Chinese 8 Tengo sed Cantina 74 Bar & Grill 1 Tequila Mexican Rest.

81 Mexican 12 Texas Roadhouse 65 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 68 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 77 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Siam 77 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 77 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 77 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 74 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 64 Cafés 1 The Gaslight Inn 68 Casual Dining 6 The Lunch Pail 64 Cafés 1 The Menu on the River 74 Bar & Grill 16 Theater Square Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third Avenue Café 64 Cafés 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Toast on Market 68 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster 68 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Tony Boombozz 70 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 71 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 73 Barbecue 5 Trailside Café 81 Coffee House 7 Trellis Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 68 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Turkey Joe’s 74 Bar & Grill 8 Tuscano’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 79 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Uncle Tubby’s 71 Pizza 7 Uptown Café 61 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 61 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 74 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 78 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 68 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 73 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 59 Fine Dining 1 Volare 79 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 69 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 68 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 64 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 71 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wiggington’s 61 Upscale Casual 3 Wild Eggs 64 Cafés 3 Windsor Restaurant & Garden 62 Upscale Casual 14 Windy City Pizzeria 71 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 68 Casual Dining 12 Wings To Go 71 Pizza 14 Winston’s 59 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 76 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 64 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 76 Asian/Chinese 4 Wood City Grill 73 Barbecue 1 Woody’s Pub & Grill 74 Bar & Grill 8 Xavier’s 68 Casual Dining 1 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 62 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 76 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 76 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 76 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 71 Pizza 2 ZaZoo’s 74 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 78 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 59 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 57

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:10 AM

Page 58

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15–$20 $$ = $9–$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT

OPEN TILL MIDNIGHT OR LATER

✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmospher e and creative cuisine of this stylish spot in St. Matthews.

It consistently ranks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s distinctive, eclectic take on cr eative international cookery places his personal signature on ever y dish at this elegantly comfor table Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quar ter of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s finest places to dine. $$$$ p f ✿

58 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

BUCK’S 425 W . Ormsby A ve., 637-5284. Eclectic Victorian with tongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not overstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apar tments combines a welcoming attitude with high-quality far e and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e ✿ CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bardstown Rd., 458-4830. A local tradition that helped establish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’s “restaurant rows” a generation ago, Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and continues to please Metro’s loyal fans. $$$ p ✿ CAFFÉ PERUSA 9200 T aylorsville Rd. 491-5459 There’s a slight Peruvian accent to Rodulfo Pantoja’s lar ge, stylish “American Continental” restaurant in Stony Br ook, wher e you can enjoy everything fr om escar got and oysters to softshell crab and — you pick — New Zealand rack of lamb or cowboy rib eye. A lar ge, international wine cellar adds to the appeal. $$$$ p f e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime owner/chef at Equus and Jack’ s Lounge, kicks things up another notch with this r emarkable, high-end East End destination, which makes thoughtful use of the historic Von Allmen mansion with high-tech touches that range fr om a 21st century kitchen to multimedia dinners. Corbett has his sights set on becoming Kentucky’ s first Mobil five-diamond r estaurant, and we’r e not betting against him. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (The Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same downtown landmark that our grandparents enjoyed, but Chef Laur ent Gér oli brings the grand old hotel dining r oom into the 21st centur y with sophisticated international cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s most

RED = ADVERTISER

honored r estaurants in this simple white-brick building in St. Matthews, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid ser vice and first-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p ✿ LE RELAIS 2817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in Louisville’ s r estaurant race, this ar t deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airpor t building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e ✿ LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. As a r epeat invitee to Manhattan’ s James Bear d House, Chef Kathy Cary shares her Kentucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s combines sophisticated style and Car y’s cr eative cooker y to keep this landmark r estaurant one of Louisville’ s dining favorites. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant business, keep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple formula with considerable success at Limestone, transpor ting the concept that br ought them international culinary kudos at the Seelbach’ s Oakr oom with good ef fect in these modern quar ters in the East End. $$$ p ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Todd Richards has been cutting a swath, with r ecent appearances at James Beard House and Iron Chef America. Richards and right-hand-man Chef Duane Nutter have made the once-staid old Oakr oom one of the city’ s most exciting places to dine. $$$$ p ✿ PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. Chef Jay Denham has settled in as executive chef now , and he pr esides over a renovated dining r oom and a new menu. This signature r estaurant in Louisville Slugger Field

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:10 AM

Page 59

of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich envir ons outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

remains a reliable place to enjoy a quality meal in a comfortable setting. $$$$ p f e ✿ PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. High-end luxur y and style bring a taste of Las Vegas to Metro Louisville in this pricey, white-tablecloth eater y located on the gr ounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360. This stylish spot in the posh 21C Museum Hotel at Seventh & Main has earned a firm place in the top tier of local eateries. Chef Michael Paley pr eside over a modern American bill of far e with distinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560, 2929 Goose Cr eek Rd., 425-1000.

Chef Anthony Lamas has been winning national praise for his cr eative cooker y, fr equently appearing in national food media and making a regular trek to James Beard House in NYC. Seviche, as the name implies, specializes in the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tar t citrus juices. Now there’s another Seviche, bringing a similar Latino vibe to the ’burbs: Seviche A Latin Bistro on Goose Creek Road. $$$$ p f ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave pr ofessional ser vice, high-end Nor thern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, V incenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p ✿ WINSTON’S REST AURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Renovated quarters kick W inston’s up a notch as culinar y arts students at Sullivan University staf f this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level

h = LATE NIGHT

60 WEST BISTRO & MAR TINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 W est, formerly Café Emilie, combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar with an imposing list of martinis and mar tini-style cocktails. Chefs T im Smith and Chris Vanhoozer of fer an appealing, fairly priced eclectic international menu. $$ p f ✿ ARTEMISIA 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. A ver y good fit with the bustling east-of-downtown ar ts scene, Ar temisia rates as favorite dinner venue in an artful gallery setting, with an attractive alfr esco option in its four -season enclosed cour tyard, Artemisia of fers stylish far e to please both vegetarians and omnivores. $$$ p f e ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bar dstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has won diners’ raves and many culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local tenur e. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has won him invitations to New Y ork City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar , this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿ AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bardstown Road offers a fresh and creative bill of far e that pr esents American and international cuisine with a distinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good par t of the year. $$$ p f ✿

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Michael and Steven T on ar e winning raves for their sleek and upscale new r estaurant with its “fusion” blend of V ietnamese and world culinary influences, a mix that invites comparison with San Francisco’s Slanted Door and Cincinnati’s Pho Paris. $$ p BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿ BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 292-2585, 2035 S. Thir d St., 634-2723, 700 W .

Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-1995. The Bristol has been a star on Louisville’ s bistro scene since it helped kick of f the Bar dstown Road restaurant renaissance 30 years ago this year . Old standards like the gr een-chile won tons and the Bristol Bur ger ar e always r eliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji r estaurants in the East End, adds a downtown pr esence with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style T atami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 59

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:10 AM

Page 60

CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery of fers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim far e plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿ CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Club Grotto’s stylish and romantically dim environs add up to a comfor table, familiar Highlands spot that’ s worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p ✿ COACH LAMP REST AURANT 751 V ine St., 5839165. This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but Coach Lamp turns into a more serious dining r oom Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes that range fr om down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. (see listing under Entertainment Dining) INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant r estaurant space in Actor’ s Theatr e of Louisville’ s historic building features casual American bistr o fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly enter tainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿ J. ALEXANDER’S REST AURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfor tably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, featur es “contemporar y American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿ J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discr eetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 452-9244. If you want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining style, ther e’s no better destination than Jack Fr y’s. This popular spot is always packed. It saves just a whif f of the raf fish aspect of its 1960s-era pr edecessor, a local saloon, but upgrades it with cr eative American far e in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e h ✿ JARFI’S BISTRO 1543 Bar dstown Rd. 589-5060 Restaurateur Jef f Jar fi, after five years of ser vice operating the destination r estaurant in the Kentucky Center for the ar ts, now moves to the Highlands, taking over the space long occupied by Lentini’s and conver ting it into something mor e elegantly continental. $$$ p f ✿ JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456-1111. This old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its cozy setting in an historic Buechel home to its down-home ser vice to its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e ✿ KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Live, 568-9009. Under a licensing agreement with the management of Four th Str eet Live, Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distiller y lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image to this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown enter tainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h ✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue par ties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ 60 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:10 AM

Page 61

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. (see r eview under European/Spanish) NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

This popular destination celebratres the Pacific Rim, earning top rank for its innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent ser vice and fine Californiafocused wine collection. At the end of May it will leave Dupont Cir cle for new quar ters in W estport Village in mid June. $$$ p f ✿ NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portico as the second high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar’ s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Por tico’s all-American steak-andseafood theme with a br oader international menu that ranges fr om T uscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. After a shor t closur e, this comfortably nostalgic restaurant in a historic stone building east of Louisville in Simpsonville is back in business with new owners. $$$ p f ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ THE P ATRON 3400 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1661.

Viewed fr om the perspective of an evening meal, the Patron offers some of the best cooking in town.

Chef Amber McCool of fers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what’ s available and perhaps the chef ’s whim. It’s not just adventur ous but civilized. $$ p ✿ RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 520 S. Four th St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED ST AR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Live, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Four th Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h RIVUE 140 N. Four th St., (Galt House Hotel) 5895200. As par t of an overall makeover , Galt House management has completely r edone the dark old Flagship Room, conver ting the hotel’ s r evolving building-top venue into a sophisticated, upscale and architecturally stunning dining room. $$$ p h ✿ ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old rock-quarry location in scenic Floyds Knobs to offer an atmospheric eatery, with a creative menu and an interesting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the trip across the Ohio for one of the ar ea’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f ✿ UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4212.

Across the str eet and a step downscale fr om its partner, Café Metr o, the Uptown Café of fers excellent far e with a bistr o feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. The old Red Lounge has under gone a transformation, upgraded to a stunning new dining r oom named for owner and chef, John V aranese, who’ s been executive chef at U of L’s Cardinal Club and Azalea.

Varanese puts his personal stamp on an exciting, upscale casual and internationally flavor ed bill of fare. Live jazz, contemporar y ar t and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian) WIGGINGTON’S 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 893-0106. New owners hoist a new sign over the former Rick’ s Ferrari Grill. The casually sophisticated style of this St. Matthews favorite isn’t expected to change, but watch for more steaks and upscale main dishes as well as a range of excellent libations. $$$$ p f e ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 61

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:10 AM

Page 62

WINDSOR RESTAURANT & GARDEN 148 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 944-9688. Set for spring opening, this new dining r oom will of fer upscale casual far e in the historic hotel building that formerly housed Bistro New Albany. $$ p f e ✿ YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Four th St., 585-4005. Y aching’s pr omises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’ s an attractive mix of East and W est, suf ficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy , regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the hear t of the hotel. Specials run fr om their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot like a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmosphere take it a notch upscale, and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost year-round.

Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’r e looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bar dstown Rd., 4586111. Chef Scott Schamel brings a gourmet-style sensibility to this attractive luncheon spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel. Menu choices rarely miss; if Possum Pie is the desser t special, don’t fail to choose it. $ ✿ BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfor t A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, Kentucky’s traditional nectar, owns a place of honor in Louisville eateries and watering holes that showcase its pleasur es. Bourbons Bistr o combines a fine bar and comfor tably upscalecasual r estaurant featuring what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of far e is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f ✿ BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content

of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a shor t bistr o-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $ h ✿ CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears A ve, 893-7776. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner -Chef Clay W allace is comfor table with his international bill of far e that ranges fr om Louisiana to the Mediterranean, and the Café’ s trademark colorful, bold art underscores its laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ p ✿ DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. Highlands favorite. Chef/Co-owner Domonic Serratore — a pioneer of the local dining scene — of fers an internationally eclectic bill of fare that ranges from Kansas City ribs and New England crab cakes to Thai chicken wings and Chinese burritos. $$ p h ✿ HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Live, 568-2202.

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy thr ongs at the local branch of this popular shrine to r ock. The music scene is the draw , but you’ll have n o complaints about Har d Rock’ s standar d American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿ JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears A ve., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’r e enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfor table exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ NIOS 917 Baxter A ve., 456-7080. Back with new spirit after a brief closing, Nio’ s at 917 of fers an inviting concept: Cr eate your own main course with a sharable selection of small plates, featuring such cr eative goodies by Chefs Josh T uley and Matt Tuley as Southwest Inspired duck wontons, Filipino vinegar -cooked kilawin, baby back ribs, tomato basil bisque, trio of satays, and coconut shrimp. $$$ p f ✿ RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funky and fun, this favorite spot of the Highlands’ Generation X crowd attracts foodies of all ages with its friendly setting, reasonable prices and well-pr epared international cuisine. $$ f h ✿

ANGIE’S CAFÉ 4010 Dupont Circle, 895-7064. This small retail bakery and deli, hidden away on the back side of the Dupont Professional Tower building near Napa River Grill in St. Matthews’ Dupont Cir cle shopping district, of fers an af fordable option for neighborhood diners. $ AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite befor e hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and cof fee will fuel you for a night of enter tainment. $ h ✿ BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes ar tisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the U.S., and competitive withthe best in Eur ope. Its comfor table, upscale café of fers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ f ✿ BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582-3220. Host Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican accent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain cof fee is the specialty , at this sleek and sophisticated new spot acr oss Main fr om Slugger 62 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:11 AM

Page 63

500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a longtime star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fr esh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿

Field. A coffee house by day, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $$ f h ✿ THE BOUNTIFUL BREAD BAKERY CAFÉ 1311 Herr Ln., 742-8111. This upscale bakery in the Westport Village shopping center is building a buzz with excellent, old world-style ar tisan br ead baked on the premises, homemade soups and simple, hear ty homemade fare. $ f e ✿ BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $f✿ THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot of fers teas and lighter lunch far e in an attractive old-house setting. $ f ✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featur ed at this East End neighbor hood café, featuring homemade soups, br eads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CAFÉ J 3600 Dutchmans Ln. (Jewish Community Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center of fers fully kosher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch often do so here, lured by an attractive selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches and desserts. $ f ✿ CHRISANTA’S CAFÉ 1812 Br ownsboro Rd., 6182250. Don’t blink when you pass this small Clifton storefront down at the lower end of Brownsboro in Clifton, or you might miss your chance for a charming lunch. Mediterranean bistro fare includes a variety of panini, kabobs and comfortable Persian home cooking. $ CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. Four th St., 635-0222, 505 W .

Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600,

h = LATE NIGHT

COLONNADE CAFÉ 834 E. Broadway, 562-6846. The Louisville Antique Mall moves from Goss Avenue to East Br oadway, and the familiar Colonnade, mourned upon its eviction from the Starks Building last year, comes back to life on the Antique Mall’ s fifth floor as a sit-down lunch spot with blue-plate menu specials. Works for us! $ p ✿ CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2250 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1488. Experienced cater ers and chefs of fer casual but quality café far e in this comfor table old frame house in Clifton. $ f ✿ CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. $$ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central A ve. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch ser ved year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such r egional favorites as meaty Bur goo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿ ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Four th St., 587-9390, 454 S. Four th Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany , IN, 941-8674.

These popular bakeries attract cr owds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted

by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 9486646. $ f ✿ GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Goss Ave., 637-9412. One of the many old-fashioned, simple and welcoming

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

bars ser ving pub grub in Louisville’ s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middletown, KY , 245-1569. The Middletown Historic District is booming with stor efronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the past. The Grapevine Pantry of fers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, the recently redecorated J. Graham’s offers a mor e casual bistr o-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ p JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Market St., 587-8720. A wor thy edition to the booming ar ts district east of downtown, Jenicca’ s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine coffee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe. $ f h ✿ KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2631. The younger generation of a long-standing local restaurant family offers soup and sandwich favorites and some Lebanese specialties in this small but stylish St. Matthews building. $ f ✿ MAIN STREET CAFÉ & TREA TS 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 944-9494. $ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Ser vice is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ ✿ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Thir d St., 584-8504. It’ s run by a friendly immigrant family fr om Eastern Europe, but the food is all-American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hear ty diner-style meal. $ ✿

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 63

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:11 AM

Page 64

NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clifton spot in an ar tfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’ s most popular spots for upscale casual dining. The eclectic menu of fers diverse tapas and inter esting entrées. It’s an appealing, af fordable place to dine. $f✿ PIG AND A PEPPERMINT9521 U.S. Hwy 42, 292-1245. $f QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ ✿ SWEET ‘N’ SA VORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hear ty brunch far e with a vegetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Savory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ ✿ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfor t A ve., 4586363. After moving fr om its original Frankfor t Avenue to Bardstown Road a few years ago, owner Jessica Haskell has r eturned to her original neighborhood. A light lunch menu is available as well as the trademark desserts. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Br ent St., 637-6869. Long hailed as one of the city’s most attractive places for a simple but stylish lunch, this local institution has moved from the old Louisville Antique Mall on Goss Avenue, to a mor e easily accessible stor efront location just off East Broadway. $ THE LUNCH P AIL 502 E. W arnock St., 634-7116.

Offering yet another quick and comfor ting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year -round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿ THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. One of my favorite places for a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighbor hood eater y is attracting loyal cr owds with excellent far e and a cozy setting that brings you back for mor e. $$

pfe✿ WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 4545955. For many years a Fern Cr eek landmark before a shor t move west, Whitney’ s r emains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. $ ✿

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

64 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, ser ved on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as over flowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up ther e with the best. Crisp br eading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Gr een River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. The original fried-fish eater y in a neighbor hood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery r emains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and af fordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿ HILL STREET FISH FR Y 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH COMPANY 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300. Spawned by a beachside eatery in the Florida Keys, Islamorada Fish Company has locations in many of the nation’s 30 Bass Pr o Shops, including Clarksville’ s gigantic entry in the former River Falls Mall. Beach-shack decor adds fun, and its expansive menu of fers a broad selection of seafood and fish. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line, and I’m pleased to r eport that the seafood at Joe’s is uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop of fers fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare in a casual setting. We’ve found the fish dishes first-rate and fairly priced. $ ✿ KINGFISH REST AURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 284-3474.

Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. T wo of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f

WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005. The owners of Napa River Grill have hit a home run with the launch of this popular , high-quality spot, set to be the first in a gr owing mini-chain. W ild Eggs ser ves br eakfast, brunch and lunch. T raditional favorites and specialty omelets ar e featured, with upscale touches at moderate prices, plus a trained espresso barista and full bar service. $ p ✿

KIP’S KOVE 4413 St. Rita Dr., 968-1130. $

WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 5897983. Although it bears the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, don’ t expect W olfie in the kitchen: This fast-food operation is run by Centerplate, the same folks who pr ovide concessions at Slugger Field and Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium. $$

MAZZONI’S OYSTER CAFÉ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 451-4436. In business since 1884, Mazzoni’s is one of the city’s longest-running restaurants. After a generation in the Bowman Field area, it has found a home in Middletown, and brought along much of its oldstyle look and feel. The pub grub, cold beer and the famous rolled oyster haven’t changed a bit. $ ✿

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4124666. This franchise concept fr om the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain of fers impressive seafood in a comfor table setting. Add Bonefish to your shor t list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿ CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 3922 Westport Rd., 894-8947. In an East End neighbor hood rich with seafood eateries, Carolina offers a tasty option within walking distance of downtown St. Matthews. This spartan little joint features shellfish and cod, much of it healthfully steamed, not fried, in an affordable family setting. $ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only sur viving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, RED = ADVERTISER

MACCA’S FLORIDA SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR 1315 Herr Ln., 618-2770. Upscale casual seafood and fish, this popular spot in W estport Village is upscale in menu and design but af fordable for families. $$ p f MARKET STREET FISH HOUSE 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN.

MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and r emains immensely popular . Ther e’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic gr ove with its giant shade tr ees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eater y evokes the feeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kitchen that of fers views of chefs at work.

Quality seafood and ser vice has made Mitchell’ s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 4633. $ f e

10801 Locust Rd., 267-

PROSPECT FISH MARKET 9521A U.S. 42, Prospect, 228-6962. If you’r e on the eastern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Market of fers

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:11 AM

Page 65

is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p

good, affordable fish in a pleasant shopping-center setting. $ ✿ RUMORS REST AURANT & RA W BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’ s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p SKIP JACK’S 1418 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 282-7557. $ STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, per fectly pr epared. I’ve never had a better fish sandwich anywher e. W atch for daily specials that take advantage of fr esh product. $ ✿ ] BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 288-2411. This independent-minded steakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s best values for exper tly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual sizes and configurations, but someone in the kitchen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling. The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 897-7077. Once ranked among the city’ s top steakhouses, Del Frisco’s remains strong in its core competency. For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’ s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 361-2363. The Fifth Quarter offers steaks and beef in a nostalgic family atmosphere. $$$ p f e FRANK’S STEAK HOUSE 520 W . Seventh St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-3383, 9601 Shelbyville Rd., 429-3714. A longtime nor th-of-the-river favorite, this neighbor hood steakhouse now of fers venues on both sides of the river , where steak lovers will find comfor t and hear ty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belterra Casino, now hosts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale steak house that bears his name. Fine beef is the main draw , with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy ., 448-0577, 970 Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 V on Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme ar e the draw at this chain eatery , although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. The steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being stuffy, and the service is outstanding.

Morton’s earns a solid three stars and ranks among the top tier of Louisville’ s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895-4329, 6520 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 2834329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food

h = LATE NIGHT

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ’50s, but when I ate there last, I think I saw Ozzie and Harriet. A local favorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hwy., 964-6117, 816 S. KY 53, La Grange, KY, 2221226. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buf fet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’ s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the best r estaurant. It ser ves an excellent steak in an atmospher e of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4711 Dixie Hwy., 447-4781, 636 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8520. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buf fet featur es over 150 items. $ ✿ STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Geor gia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly ser vice and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy . 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex)

A NICE REST AURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr ., 2809160, 404 Lafollette Station, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’ s Finer Diner ,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two mor e branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ ANYTIMES AT THE RAMADA INN 1041 Zorn Ave., 897-5101. Ser ving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p.m. and begins ser ving appetizers, salads, entrées and desser ts. A steak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house. $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assor tment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultr y and pasta as well as full bar ser vice.

It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter , but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREW HOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a lar ge and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination of mountain lodge atmospher e

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 65

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:11 AM

Page 66

and American-style far e make these popular destinations. The lar ge menu featur es down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline fr om the river front location is not to be missed. $$ p f h ✿ CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Four th St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue — formerly the River Grille, of fers a range of far e for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a latenight burger and fries. $$$ p ✿ CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ CAPTAIN’S QUAR TERS 5700 Captain’ s Quar ters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’ s most attractive eateries for atmospher e, Captain’ s Quar ters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistr ostyle fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿ CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou want food too? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h CARLY RAE’S 103 W . Oak St., 365-1003. This attractive Old Louisville spot with its beautiful patio offers a diverse and appealing menu with an unusually wide variety of casual dining options. $$

pfh✿ CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its

66 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿

nation dining room by night, down-home lunch by day, with a wall of glass and sprawling decks that overlook Harrods Creek. $$ p f e

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 W estport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 Veteran’s Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2809660. This p opular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿

FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 246-5456. Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken. Neil’s also makes excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups ar e created daily and cof fee and desser ts ar e always fresh. $$ p ✿

CHICK INN 6325 Upper River Rd., 228-3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The fried chicken remains estimable, and a local cr owd calls it home base. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Antonia W ay, 301-8181,9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. Mor e than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $ pC✿ CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen custar d tops the desser t menu, you know you’re not in for diet far e. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Four th St., 587-0526, 301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third centur y in modern quar ters that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history , Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 Upper River Rd., 2282882. If you haven’t been to Eva Mae’s for a while, forget everything you think you know about this quaint riverside spot: Owner/Chef T ravis Hall has totally revamped the place, turning it into a desti-

RED = ADVERTISER

FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. This comfor table space features both buf fet and menu dining. One price covers the fr esh and hot buf fet and salad bar . The menu often includes r egional and contemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p ✿ GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eater y has been ar ound for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿ HENRY CLAY CAFÉ 300 W. Chestnut St., 992-3156.

This small spot in the r enovated downtown Henry Clay building r eplaces a bagel baker y with similar quick casual fare. $ ✿ HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and mor e than 20 toppings of fer you a fielder’ s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100; 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194; 7701 Pr eston Hwy., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2189485; 941 East Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464.

Hooter’s may draw cr owds with its long-standing reputation as a par ty scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. $ p f e h

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:11 AM

Page 67

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1722. Fans of this cult classic say the Metr o has been without a handy IHOP for far too long. Relief is here with this familiar franchise’ s r ecent opening in Southern Indiana. $ h ✿ JARFI’S AT MELLWOOD 1860 Mellwood Ave., 2599888. Jeff Jarfi, now host of Jar fi’s Bistro in the old Lentini’s restaurant site, hosts this second property bearing his name in the Mellwood Ar ts Center .

Currently open only for lunch. $ f ✿ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going str ong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually gr own from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h JUKE BOX Highlander Point Shopping Center Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

,

KAELIN’S RESTAURANT 1801 Newbur g Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 70 years, and their cheeky claim to have invented the cheesebur ger actually seems to have some basis in fact. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f ✿ KAREM’S GRILL & PUB 9424 Nor tons Commons Blvd., 327-5646. $ p f KARMA CAFÉ 1126 Bardstown Rd., 587-0062. Karma Café stays open late and of fers diner-style courses — with a few Middle Eastern dishes for accent — in a casually artsy and informal setting. $ f h ✿ KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9726.

This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’ s of fers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p

LEGENDS A T CAESARS Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short or ders ar e ser ved up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las V egas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts from Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the most popular places in town for brunch, Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungr y cr owds with its hear ty far e and funky decor . L ynn’s sponsors the State Fair’ s tongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp Contest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling food. $$ p ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ ✿ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Thir d St., 636-2511. A fine, family Louisville tradition, this familiar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the state’ s largest full-ser vice restaurant and the city’ s largest caterer. Serving a lunch buffet Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4939662, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412-5229. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that star ted in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a steady formula of friendly service and casual-dining far e that ranges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads to mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiar y of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barr et A ve., 5822433. A popular spot in the urban neighbor hood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The

Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a r elaxed ambience and welcoming ser vice. The new r ooftop patio adds another dimension to the fun. $ p f e h ✿ NORMA JEAN’S TRACKSIDE 119 W. Main St., LaGrange, KY, 222-8044. This Oldham County favorite has evolved over the years, taking on a mor e upscale touches, but hosts Norma and John Burley consistently make it feel a lot like home. $$ p f ✿ O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’ s, Inc. could serve well as the pictur e in the dictionar y next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 pr operties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, ser ving a straightfor ward steakand-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OLD CHICAGO P ASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This gr owing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Four th St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’ s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakr oom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buf fet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency gets a makeover and a full diner menu, open to hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ p h ✿ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Live 569-7782.

Owned by Cincinnati’ s The T avern Restaurant Group, The Pub featur es “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h

When it comes to classic Italian American food, Rocky’s Italian Grill does it right.

Recipes passed down from generations.

Homemade whole wheat pizza dough prepared daily. Garden fresh ingredients.

Meatballs rolled every day by hand.

So whether you’re passionate about pizza or crazy about calzones, you’re sure to find your favorite Italian dish right here at Rocky’s.

Two convenient locations serving lunch and dinner for dine in or carry out.

Discover Italian without leaving the country LATE NIGHT ❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS h =50407_rockys_fooddining.indd 1

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

EatAtRockys.com 715 W. Riverside Dr. (off I-65, on the River) Jeffersonville, IN 812.282.3844

10206 Westport Rd. (off I-265, across from The Home Depot) Louisville, KY 502.339.0808

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008AM 67 7/23/07 9:00:04

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 68

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfr edo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 V on Allmen Ct., 339-8616. The Robin has landed in the Brownsboro Cr ossings shopping center in the far East End. The highly r egarded Seattle-based chain offers “gourmet burgers” and trimmings. Despite a full bar , it r eportedly attracts hor des of happy youngsters. $$ p f ROOSTER’S 7405 Pr eston Hwy ., 964-9464. This Columbus-based wings-and-br ews chain conquered Ohio and is now spr eading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S., including this new Louisville property in r enovated quarters formerly occupied by a Ryan’s Steakhouse. $ p f h RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy ., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby T uesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “A wesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p e h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eater y in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations fr om Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757. Opened by a man named Sam some 16 years ago, this popular Southern Indiana institution feeds an army of happy diners. Y ou’ll find seafood, steaks, pastas, salads and desser ts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy ., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr ., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s top choices for fast r oadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bar dstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview V illage Center, 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy ., 937-4020, 426 W . Market St., 561-9999 721-0093, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln. Louisville’ s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eateries offer the r egional favorite (r eally it’ s Gr eek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fastfood dishes. $ h ✿ SPORTSVILLE GRILL & BAR 4004 Gardiner Point Dr., 753-4413. Y ou’ll find a varied menu and a sports-bar theme at Spor tsville Grill, dining r oom of the Holiday Inn Airport East. $$ p ✿ STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy ., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr ., 326-3625, 980 E. Hwy .

131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿ TGI FRIDA Y’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congr egate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its par ty atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿ THE GASLIGHT INN RESTAURANT & TAP 10317 Watterson Trail, 266-7112. This fine old Jef fersontown farmhouse, formerly the home of the ver y 68 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

food her e is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e

British Sir Churchill’s, regains an American accent with an upscale casual menu and attractive bar . $$

pfh✿ TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099. A historic theater building (long a landmark junque shop) lends a funky atmospher e to T oast, a local breakfast and lunch favorite. Chef Geor ge Morris’s simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner far e. $ p f ✿ TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 945-2389. V alue and variety are the str ong points of this community tradition and the far e goes fr om burgers to steak. Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café far e in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of ever ything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is pr obably at its best for br eakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home ver y late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The V illa Buf fet offers an impressive choice of international dishes, with some 150 selections. A seafood buf fet is featured on Fridays. $$ ✿ WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour’ s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, pr oprietors Will and Laura Crawfor d welcome visitors to this cozy destination, of fering a comfor tably sophisticated bill of fare that would in no way be out of place in a fancy city bistro. $$ ✿ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h XAVIER’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582-2241.

Remodeled and r e-titled, the former Bentley’ s restaurant in the Holiday Inn Downtown of fers casual dining with a new name that evokes memories of the historic old St. Xavier High School building that stood on this site for mor e than a century until 1963. $$ p ✿

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’ s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a r eliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food.

Honest grub, honestly priced, in a r ootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’ s may be the most hospitable place in the W est End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smother ed pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very hear t of American comfor t food, including gr een beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countr yside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Br own. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Now, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade tr ees on Eastern Parkway not far fr om the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Thir d St., 588-2003. Dir t-cheap blue-plate specials and hear ty br eakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, gr een beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’ s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfor t far e. The word on the str eet, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿ GENNY’S DINER 2223 Frankfor t A ve., 893-0923.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’ s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genny’ s, provided that you set your expectations for hear ty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., 2582540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner of fers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the downhome eats. $ HAZELWOOD REST AURANT 4106 T aylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheesebur gers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standar d shor t or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain ser ves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿

CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, gr een beans and mashed potatoes.

Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $

INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 964-5749, 3353 Fern V alley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Thir d St., 363-2535. Gr own fr om a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of af fordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿

CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can scent a whif f of Louisville history coming of f the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of fr ying grease. The bar

JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy ., 937-6332. Countr y cooking is Jessie’ s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 69

KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Br oadway, 772-7138.

This tiny , color ful W est End eatery , open for takeout only , of fers a vast selection of filling, affordable urban far e that ranges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and mor e. $ h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ MR. LOU’S COUNTR Y COTT AGE REST AURANT 5408 V alley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show of f Mr. Lou’s countr y cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ ✿ NINNY’S-N-NEW ALBANY 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-1235. Home cooking like Mom used to make, assuming that Mom was an excellent cook. The Ninny Bur ger is a signatur e item, but you can settle down to a much mor e serious steak dinner for evening chow. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites ar e available fr om br eakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410.

The original Our Best, an excellent family r estaurant in the Henry County village east of Louisville, now expands to the big city with this franchised expansion, the first in a planned chain. $$ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year r ound.

Racing history on the walls and ser vers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighbor hood corner gr ocery store houses a delicious secr et: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfor t food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety , Piccadilly offers r oast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measur e. $ ✿ SOUTH SIDE INN 114 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-5966. New Albany’s historic South Side Inn is dishing up cafeteria far e again under new ownership after having been closed for several months. It’s still serving down-home fare, in muchrenovated and spruced-up surroundings. $

DERBY DINNER PLA YHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr ., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’ s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buf fet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e ✿ HOWL A T THE MOON Fourth Str eet Live, 5629400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that featur es a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? Y ou’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extr eme fun, wher e family fun hits maximum over drive” is the pr omise at this giant dining and enter tainment venue. It’s not just for kids: Chef Patrick Dale, a Sullivan graduate with 17 years of chef and management experience who helped cater the Grammy Awards in Los Angeles in 2006, offers an upscale menu in a signatur e dining room at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿ JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s

has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY STRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Street Live, 560-1400. An upscale bowling alley? A classy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts fr om Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian Foster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle retro and high-tech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f h ✿ MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. T alk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner T rain offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railr oad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars.

Reservations ar e str ongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p ✿ STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riverside Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1565. The Ohio River cruise is the best thing about this Love Boat-style yacht that makes nightly all-you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f ✿ STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fr esh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away , and that fresh produce shows up on the tables her e in mammoth por tions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, r oast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. W ith the Ohio River a block away , it’s aptly named. $ ✿ CRAVINGS A LA CAR TE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli of fers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar , and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Stor y A ve., 583-0437.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and fr om offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 583-2534. Jay’ s modern, well-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of place on Hurstbourne Lane.

Hungry diners fr om all over town find a warm welcome at this popular W est End location that’ s now run as a community-development program by two local churches. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king T ommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f

h = LATE NIGHT

❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 69

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 70

ANGIO’S REST AURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eater y attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’ s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany , IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop.

Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (15 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 15 locations. $ p ✿ BIG WILLIE’S PIZZA PUB 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0650. $ ✿ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ BRUNO’S PIZZERIA & PUB 1919 S. Pr eston, 6341003. $$ p f h ✿ CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMP ANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jef fersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Br ewing Company. That’s a fine pedigr ee, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany , IN., 944-4942, 3093 Br eckinridge Ln., 452-6700, 5226 Dixie Hwy ., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfor t A ve., 893-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals to me with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with gr own-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of my favorite local pizzerias. $ f e h ✿ DANNY MAC’S P ASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 635-7994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ ✿ FAST BREAK PIZZA 6825 Central A ve., 243-1101.

Scott Hack’s Italian spot, featuring pizza, subs and other Italian-American goodies in a spacious sports bar with a basketball theme, is luring pizza lovers out to Cr estwood for fine traditional pizzas plus such innovative items as the pineapple-topped Big Kahuna and, believe it or not, a baconcheeseburger pie. $ ✿ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ ✿ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGrange Rd., 339-8111, 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555; 2208 Bardstown Rd., 4791040; 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-0840; 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighbor hood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads.

The Lyndon spot lur es a friendly biker cr owd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $ ✿ FRESCO SOUTHWEST GRILL & PIZZA 2047 Lytle St., 776-6077. Locally owned and operated but with development as a chain in its business plan, this comfor table, welcoming spot opened first in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Por tland neighborhood, of fering fast-food style and a choice of well-made burritos and other Mexican-style goodies and pizza, too. $ f h ✿ FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just ar ound the corner fr om the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿ 70 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

HERO’S NEW YORK PIZZA 10509 Watterson Trail, 261-9339. This attractive venue brings an authentic taste of New York to an historic building on Jeffersontown’s Town Square. Hero’s scores with fans of crisp, thin-crust New Y ork-style pizza, but don’t stop ther e: Many other Italian-style goodies offer a taste of the Big Apple, too. $$ p f h ✿ HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Squar e Shopping Center , 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, str omboli and cold beer ar e available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss A ve., 637-5406.

Old-timers ar e delighted to see Jockamo’ s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depar ted Bardstown Road. Some of the original owners (except the late Dave W ilder) have r ecreated the style, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e ✿

PA PA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962-7272, 9501 T aylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 161 Outer Loop, 361-3444; 4607 Outer Loop, 964-7272; 12535 Shelbyville Rd., 2539191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ ✿ PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-r estaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-tossed dough. Come and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a cozy table for thr ee at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ ✿ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ ✿

LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr ., 267-8600, 5622 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111, 12418 LaGrange Rd., 241-5445. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market shar e in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿

PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a stur dy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$

LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy ., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’ s, this local pizzeria makes good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿

SICILIAN PIZZA & P ASTA 631 South 4th St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $

LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New Y ork City-style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on just about ever y str eet corner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿

SIR DANO’S PIZZA P ARLOR 469 N. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿

MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for -family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Pr eston St., 635-6708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to r each Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgr ounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr ., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story: NABC combines the fine pies of Spor tstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’ s, Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with mor e than 100 selections fr om ar ound the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards.

A pizza like the famous “Herbavor e” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OAK STREET PIZZA 125 E. Oak St., 585-1788. This tiny spot is built for carry-out only: Y ou can walk out with a single slice or a whole pie. It’ s already winning applause fr om beyond its neighbor hood for hand-tossed, New Y ork-style pizza of exceptional quality . Deliver y is available over a wide region. $ h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 454-2711. Impellizzeri’ s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has r eturned to the Highlands! Benny Impellizzeri’s latest ventur e is alr eady attracting happy crowds to the quar ters vacated by Alameda. $$ p f ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿ PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-7220. $$

h✿

SLICE OF NEW YORK 9910 Linn Station Rd., 3393553. A variety of quick family-Italian dishes ar e available here, but the primary attraction remains authentic, thin-crust New Y ork City-style pizza. $$ ✿ SNAPPY TOMA TO (7 Locations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-delivery chain based in Northern Kentucky, Snappy Tomato says its pizzas ar e made with fr esh ingr edients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”); and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter A ve., 568-5665.

This tiny stor efront in the city’ s nightclub zone offers a tasty option for the wide-eyed-late-at-night crowd seeking good cheap eats; it’ s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesday thr ough Satur day.

Better yet, it gives Louisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly-style pizza and r eal Philly cheese steaks. $ f h ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-5400. The former V ito’s pizzeria gets a name change and new management, but hangs on to its familiar tradition of friendly ser vice and sizzling pies. $$ ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italianstyle far e. T ony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & VINO 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 394-0000. Flagship of the Boombozz flotilla, this East End establishment takes the local mini-chain’s winning pizza concept to a higher level. The “fast casual” facility featur es the awar d-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis available at its other mostly takeout shops, but presents it for dining in a striking “urban loft” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale accent, plus wellchosen wine and beer lists. $$ p h ✿

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 71

TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr., 4290606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses br other Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$$$ ✿ UNCLE TUBBY’S 3014 Middle Rd., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8850. This Jeffersonville tradition, now in the historic r edbrick Quadrangle, builds its pizzas Indiana-style, “party-cut” in squares, with toppings all the way to the edge. Cracker y paper-thin crust is amply blanketed with cheese, tangy sauce and toppings to make an exceptionally good pie. $$ e WICKS PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Cr eek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 9954333. W ick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eateries. The pies ar e straightfor ward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿ WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708.

Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desir es. $$ WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ h ✿ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

p✿

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carr ots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals wer e harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿

are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿ DEVINO’S 320 Main St., 569-3939. Right acr oss the street from Louisville Slugger Field, this stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option to the booming east-of-downtown zone. Sandwiches ar e made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DOWN TO LUNCH CAFÉ 239 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ ✿ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back mor e than 50 years and hasn’ t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and of fers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. Third St., 584-8060. A downtown deli favorite. Daily specials are surrounded by an impr essive variety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCA TESSEN 980 Br eckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cr eam cheese, sausage, eggs and cof fee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿

HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

pf

JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101.

Don’t look for New Y ork kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites ar e lining up at its Hurstbourne location for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 499-9830.

East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W .

Jefferson St., 625-7101, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515. This Illinois-based sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of standar d-issue subs that benefit fr om fr esh quality ingr edients. W e’re particularly smitten with the alternative br ead option, thick-sliced seven-grain. Try the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian tr eat. $ f h ✿

THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Br eckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon bur ger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with thr ee meats or a fr esh veggie wrap. Soups, desser ts top of f the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿

JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slice of Louisville life, this weather ed greasy spoon at the corner of Br ook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chance he’ s sitting at Juanita’ s counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h

FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI 6247 Cr estwood Station, 243-9005. Small and spar tan, this tworoom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-style deli sandwiches, plus a shor ter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ ✿

LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 949-7567. Ever y city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fr y potatoes and grill up a

JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 451-2324. A national chain of fers fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $ f ✿

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car , go to a car dealer . To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this counter -service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fr esh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ f ✿ BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 5878260. $ h BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-5480. Sublime subs — fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 6356747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the r ealm of serious destinations for hard-core “foodies,” with extra cr edit for friendly, welcoming service. $ h ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty car toons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it of fers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $p✿ CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ ✿ DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches

h = LATE NIGHT

❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 71

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 72

burger. In New Albany , the place is Little Chef.

Biscuits and gravy , fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems like a thr owback to the hear tland of America, circa 1940. $ f h ✿ LONNIE’S BEST T ASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 1034 Bardstown Rd., 4512965. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. Lotsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food stor e, and it has been a local favorite for mor e than 20 years. It now of fers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese. A lar ge sit-down section of fers a comfortable place to enjoy cof fee, pastry and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EA TERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet historic district, this fashionable deli lur es the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MARKET ON MARKET 445 E. Market St., 568-8810.

Sharing the ground floor of the r enovated, historic Cobalt building with Primo, this upscale market brings gr ocery options to the gr owing live-in population east of downtown, and an inviting deli for sandwiches and salads, too. $ ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality customer ser vice, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ ✿ MIDDLETOWN BAGEL & DELI 12903 Shelbyville Rd. 245-3354. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Kar em Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few cr owded tables — it’ s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfor t Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighbor hood gathering spot. Of ferings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the pr emises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Thir d St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’ s one of the nation’s few sur viving tr olleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spr ead acr oss the nation in the ’70s. Oversize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $

hotspot make Panera’ s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Br ownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 T aylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’ s popular sour ces for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ ✿ PENN ST ATION (14 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups ar e available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ SAMMI JO’S SANDWICHES & MORE Shelby St., 365-1809. $

1496 S.

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr ., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s of fered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style far e, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿ SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End stor efront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good r eviews for simple br eakfast and lunch far e ser ved in friendly surroundings. $ ✿ SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325, 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 499-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy , 449-2000, 9493 W estport Rd, 425-2549, 2930 Dr .

William Weathers Dr., 774-2500. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting boar d they’ll make you meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 5843354. Sharing space with the popular Ditto’ s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily known for catering and takeout far e. They cook just as well if you choose to stay in, though, of fering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ ✿ STRAWBERRY PATCH DELI 11616 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1440. This Middletown deli of fers healthy food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $ ✿ SUB ST ATION II 3101 Fern V alley Rd., 964-1075.

The har dy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the stor e buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desser ts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿

looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metr opolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner W ay (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Of fering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will ser ve in-house diners or take or ders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 5427 V alley Station Rd., 9350999. Bake’ s ribs ar e smoked to such tender perfection that the meat slides off the bone. This is four-star barbecue, fully competitive with the region’s best. $$ BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Pr eston Hwy ., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue of fers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty por tions of well pr epared and af fordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666, 10301 T aylorsville Rd., 261-0650, 7117 Shelbyville Rd., 722-0616. Featuring hickor ysmoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners, this long-time East End favorite has added two mor e neighbor hood locations. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’ s a little of f the beaten path, ther e’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’ s r easonably priced W estern Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ FAMOUS DA VE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2812, 1360 V eterans Pkwy ., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Geor gia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The impor tant thing, though, is the food, and Dave’ s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICKOR Y SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W. Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips ar e the specialty but you’ll find turkey legs, ham, half-chickens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork — all for dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bar dstown Rd., 239-7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 327-6304, 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2273.

Fire fighters, it is said, eat hear tily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and countr y fixin’ s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr ., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $

ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up of fers the inviting atmospher e of dr opping in to someone’ s home for lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿

THEATER SQUARE DELI 22 Theater Squar e, 5840364. This popular downtown eatery thrives through a simple, ef fective formula that packs in crowds daily: Feed the lunch bunch quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches. $ f ✿

PANERA BREAD CO. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8999992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400. Warm breads finish-baked on the pr emises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches.

Soups, salads, cof fee drinks and a fr ee W iFi

TUSCANO’S 4100 Pr eston Hwy., 364-9998. Sharing space with the Noble Romans pizzeria, T uscano’s adds a br oader menu of subs, sandwiches and wraps to Noble Roman’s pizza fare. $

KENTUCKY BBQ CO. 1800 Frankfor t A ve., 8953419. The fast-moving Bourbon Br others have a new name, but the food stays much the same: These guys know their smoked meat. $$ p f

W.W. COUSINS REST AURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eater y

MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie

72 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 367-8394. $

5103 S. Thir d St.,

RED = ADVERTISER

JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good T exas-style barbecue fr om a little wooden shack that looks just like a countr y BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 73

Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first r estaurant’s location in a former feed stor e with that downhome countr y feel, Mark’ s impr esses with highquality hickor y-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauce, the yellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om General Electric’ s Appliance Park, this Louisville r elative of a famous W estern Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, grills outdoors year ‘r ound, placing hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry business district. $ f

19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f h BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy ., 2542322, 5628 Bar dstown Rd., 239-2226, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-8881, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316. If you think your basic spor ts pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer , take another look: Beef O’Brady’ s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ BENTLEY’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 2800 Crums Ln., 778-8886. The familiar range of bar and grill fare and libations will make the neighbors feel at home in this new West End watering hole. $ p

PIG CITY BBQ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-3535.

Down-home and honest, the name of this popular Middletown barbecue eater y pr etty much says it all. Smoke ’em if you’ve got ’em — and they do — with all cherry wood. $$ f

BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out fr ont says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e

PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr ., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixtur e, now of fers its smoky T exas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $

BIG DAVE’S OUTPOST 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 4599142. This casual, laid-back neighbor hood saloon is a popular gathering place for its Highlands neighbors, earning fans for libations, comfor t and food that’s a notch above mer e pub grub. $ p f e

RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Barbecue meister Kalvin Br own presides at this long-standing W est End favorite, known for its ribs and Southern-style smoked meats since the end of World War II. $ f h RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be of f the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secr et BBQ recipes. $ p f e h

h✿ BLUE MULE SPORTS CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’Connor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and spor ts bar . Riley died befor e their dream came true. But now O’Connor pr oudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jef fersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule.” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy ., 326-9830. Restaurant owner

and namesake Keith Br own used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eater y. Louisville’ s of ficial home for Cincy Bengals fans, Br ownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighbor hood saloon. $ p h BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW -3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635. As much a spor ts bar as a r estaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type far e, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464. $ p f h CHAMPIONS SPOR TS REST AURANT 280 W .

Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246.

Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a galler y of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flowing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL 2745 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f ✿ DANNY BOY’S 1101 S. Clark Clarksville IN, 2833566. $ p e h DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quite as historic as Gideon Shr yock’s Jefferson County Cour thouse ar ound the corner , but this popular bar and shor t-order spot seems as if it has been a hangout for lawyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as ther e’s been a Courthouse. $ p ✿ DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿

SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la car te and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches on more at this gr owing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A pr operty of Orlando’ s Dar den fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Gar den, Red Lobster and Bahama Br eeze, this noisy Stony Brook-area eater y conveys mor e of a spor ts-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs ar e fine. $$ p TONY ROMA ’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3278500. From the tomato tang to a smoky Blue Ridge savor, Roma’s advertises its ribs as the best dr essed in town. Bur gers, chicken and steaks ar e available as well, but we r ecommend the racks and baby backs of pork and beef. $$$ p VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name r emains on this neighborhood joint out the r oad in Oldham County. $ WOOD CITY GRILL 612 S. Fifth St., 290-0518. The lunchtime cr owds that flock to W ood City find more than just another barbecue pit. Chef Allen Sims comes fr om a long line of barbecue cooks, and he boasts experience in the kitchen at Vincenzo’s. A wide variety of meats — even goat — comes with exotic sauces that span the globe. $

h = LATE NIGHT

❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 73

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 74

DUBLIN’S CELLAR 942 Baxter Ave., 583-2969. The former Wet Willy’s is gone, and those who used to feel uncomfortable about its alley entrance will be delighted to know that the front door now opens its friendly embrace to those in search of pub grub and music with a Hibernian accent. $ p f e h DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do you like guitars with your grub? A popular halfway-home hangout for decades in the hear t of St. Matthews, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 L ydia St., 6379136. Family-owned since 1952, Flabby’ s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s top destinations for inexpensive downhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes to fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ ✿ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’ s one of the best options in the city. $$ p h FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table ser vice featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a W ichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound featur es a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiar d tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿ GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfor t Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondar y to booze and sports her e, the food goes well beyond mer e pub grub. $ p e ✿ GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 635-6475. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this stur dy redbrick tavern just nor th of the university campus of fers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled far e plus pizza. It’ s per haps best known, though, for the signature Granville Bur ger, widely r eputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr .

(Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches ar e available for the casual diner; main entrées include New Y ork strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer gar den, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: spor ts, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot wher e hot wings and hoops r eign supreme. $ p f h ✿ ICE BREAKERS 252 E. Market St., 618-2050. Picking up where a string of nightspot eateries have left of f in this ar ts-district venue, Ice Br eakers bids for success with a simple, appetizing mix of soups, salads, sandwiches and pizza — and libations of course — with the grill menu available until bar closing time. $ p f e h INDIGO JOE’S SPOR TS PUB & REST AURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1633. Louisville’ s first outpost of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’ s is a family-friendly American-style spor ts bar . It 74 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

features large portions and 44, count ’em, 44 flatscreen televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the spor ting event of their choice. $$ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $ p JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender , they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e ✿ JIMMY AND RICHIE’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 423-7774. $$ p f h JP’S PUB & GRUB 5610 Outer Loop, 966-8223. $ p f

h✿ THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jef fersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern envir onment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿ MAGGIE’S NEIGHBORHOOD BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. Just off Jeffersontown’s old Town Square, this neighborhood gathering place offers casual diner-style fare in a spor ts bar setting with a fine fireplace to add atmosphere. $ f MICHAEL MURPHY’S REST AURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full ser vice restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p MY BAR 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 948-6501. $

pfeh NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h NV T AVERN 1202 Bar dstown Rd., 452-6101. The little Cribstone Pub has closed, but this little Highlands eatery was too lovable to stay dark for long. Look for libations and appetizing bar far e here. $ p f e h

for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar far e, but don’ t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h THE MENU ON THE RIVER 100 Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. When Jimmy’ s on the River vacated this river front spot in Jef f, the proprietors of The Main Menu in New Albany saw an oppor tunity and took it, moving their entir e operation over her e, of fering pub grub and libations with a great river view. $ p f TURKEY JOE’S 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3279464. Turkey Joe’s advertises “Wings, Burgers and More,” but hot wings are the specialty, and you can take your pick of chicken, turkey or boneless chicken pr epared by a Sullivan-trained chef in a comfortable spor ts-bar setting. It r eplaces the old Wings N Things in this suburban location. $ p h VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ WOODY’S PUB & GRILL 12205 Westport Rd., 3278002. Former home of a Hoops pub, Woody’s carries on the spor ts bar concept in this East End venue near the Ford Kentucky Truck plant. $ p f h ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZoo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and welcoming neighborhood bar feeling. $ p f e h ✿

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMP ANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224. A must-stop destination for beer lovers on the national ar tisanal-brew trail, but it’ s mor e than just a br ewpub. BBC’ s management gives equally serious attention to both liquid and solid far e, making this a gr eat place to stop in for both dinner and a beer . $ p f e ✿

RUSTIC FROG 1720 Old River Rd., New Albany IN, 608-2543. $ p f e h

BROWNING’S BREWER Y 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0174. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Br owning’s of fers br ewpub beers plus appetizing fare that extends well beyond mer e pub grub. $$ p f e ✿

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two r estaurants in one, Saints featur es both a small, intimate, candle-lighted r oom and a lar ger, happily boister ous main r oom with the look and feel of a spor ts bar . The arrival of Chef Alan Rosenberg holds pr omise for a significant menu upgrade. $$ p e h ✿

CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “micr obrewery,” Cumberland Br ews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿

SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $eh

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (see review under Pizza)

STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2239 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cr oss between an old fashioned neighbor hood tavern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a tr endy sports bar.

Hearty bur gers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$

pf TAILGATERS SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Billed as a pr emier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot next to Papa John’ s Stadium featur es classic American favorites and seafood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game r oom. $ p f e h TENGO SED CANTINA 432B Fourth St., 540-1461.

“Tengo Sed” is Spanish for “I’m thirsty,” and if that’s your pr oblem, you can easily solve it in this popular Latino-accented watering hole in Four th Street Live. A selection of Cancun-style star ters, tacos and sandwiches is available. $$ p f h THE BACK DOOR 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Longtime owners John Dant and Mike Ewing are known RED = ADVERTISER

BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN 558 S. Fifth St., 625-7400.

Missing the Ethiopian dishes at the now-closed Café Kilimanjar o? W eep no mor e … Ethiopian returns to downtown with this welcoming lunch spot, with a choice of buf fet or menu service. $ ✿ CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN REST AURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’ s international dining scene, with gener ous por tions of spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om W est Africa. This friendly place recently moved fr om tiny quar ters to this mor e inviting suburban location. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bar dstown Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:12 AM

Page 75

DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿

GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿

DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton r estaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿

#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033.

Not just another in the her d of all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fets, this 350 seat eater y is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿

DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buf fet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buf fet. The far e seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿

8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿

DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ ✿

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet of ferings stay fr esh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿ AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinar y oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and fr om the staf f makes it a top spot for Asian far e. A lovely patio at the r ear affords an alfr esco dining experience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f ✿

DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The continuing pr oliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to r eport that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bar dstown Rd., 4591259. A Highlands staple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk business.

The Sesame Chicken is one of our favorites. $$ p ✿

JASMINE 13823 English V illa Dr ., 244-8896. A charming Asian eater y, wher e you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventur ous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly r efreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genr e. $ ✿

JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿

CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿

KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buf fets, King Buf fet of fers a standar d selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ ✿

CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’ s Belknap Campus. $ ✿

KING WOK 291 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 899-7188.

Another of the city’ s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buf fet. $ ✿

CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿ CHINA SEA BUFFET 12689 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0838. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿

CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN REST AURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-8887. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-0099, 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

HONG KONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. Thir d St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot of fers Cantonese standar ds hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿

JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. When I’ve got a hankering for brunch, I choose Chinese. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’ t miss it at mid-day Friday thr ough Monday, when it of fers the metr o ar ea’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿

CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿

HONG KONG CHINESE REST AURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿

JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 8930822. Y et another lar ge, shiny , all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi r olls. $ ✿

BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not of fer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿

HAPPY DRAGON 2600 W . Br oadway, 778-2573.

Catering to of fice and r esidential customers, this Chinese restaurant has ser ved the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f ✿

HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The pr oprietors of this new Michigan-based East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingr edients and sauces for the chefs to stir -fry.

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿

GREAT WOK 2502 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wor d-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bar gainbasement price. $ ✿

EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 426-1717. One of Louisville’ s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emper or’s quar ters ar e stylishly str ewn acr oss multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater.

Outstanding. $$ p ✿ EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿ FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN ST AR CHINESE REST AURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿

❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188.

Genial host Roland W ong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few V ietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $ ✿ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898.

Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fr esh, competent cooker y and cour teous, friendly ser vice that makes you feel like you’r e visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics fr om China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ ✿ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 75

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:13 AM

Page 76

ONION REST AURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany , IN, 981-0188.

Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy r estaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORCHID ASIAN CAFÉ 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 948-8887. Pr oprietor Danny T ran is a r ecent arrival fr om Ohio, wher e his family owns and operates several restaurants. His New Albany entry offers Chinese and a broader range of Asian fare in an upscale atmosphere that places it well above the chopsticks-house category. $ f ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

One of the oldest continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a notch under new owners, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL ST AR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time ar ea favorite in this heavy traf fic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE REST AURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED PEPPER CHINESE CUISINE 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8868. W ith a skilled Sichuanese chef who’s owned a r estaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown and cooked at Chinese embassies ar ound the world, Red Pepper starts out in the top tier of local Chinese r estaurants. Chinese-American standar ds are well done, but we r ecommend the authentic Chinese menu, which is available in English $ ✿ RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0428, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SESAME CHINESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not just another shopping-center Chinese r estaurant, this East End eatery has provided some of the best fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p ✿ SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. W arnock St., 409-5029.

Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swor ds as spoons. Shah’ s carries their spirit for ward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $✿ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. One of my favorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Gar den of fers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of far e. $ ✿ TEA ST ATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Nor ton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. Not just another fastfood chopsticks house, this comfor table, sit-down Chinese r estaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but gr owing cluster of businesses in the Nor ton Commons village center. $$ f ✿ WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. This corner spot has housed a variety of restaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the most af fordable. $ ✿ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646.

Traditional Chinese far e. Family-owned-andoperated, this popular neighbor hood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿ 76 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is color ful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿ YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY CHINESE REST AURANT 968-7450, 8605 Preston Hwy. $ ✿

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’ s sole Filipino eater y of fers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are af fordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buf fet. $

BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿

8007 Hwy . 311,

who can be r elied on to fashion fr esh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿ MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar , cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”style r estaurant in the style of Kansai, the r egion surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’ s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of ar tisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sappor o, has been attracting raves from neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheer y Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados say it’s lost a step since the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ ✿ RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 520 S. Four th St., 585-5880.

Raw makes good use of hip quar ters in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners may choose fr om a br oad selection of competent sushi and Japanese fair, plus fine international seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e h ✿

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a stor efront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿

SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quar ters in a St. Matthews shopping center , Sakura Blue — dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿

CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual)

SAPPORO JAP ANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. Trendy, even glitzy, with hard-edged industrial decor — and most important, excellent food — Sappor o ranks in my ratings as the city’s No. 1 spot for sushi and Japanese far e. $$$ p h ✿

FUJI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your or der, then sit back, sip your tea while the ar tist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAP ANESE REST AURANT 6027 T imber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have make this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in W estport V illage. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon of fers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shor e Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the of fer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KANSAI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9238. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available her e, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KIMIS ASIAN BISTRO 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy ., 263-1915. This upscale Asian bistro in the far East End blends traditional Japanese far e with Chinese and Kor ean flavors, ranging fr om sushi to innovative Pacific Rim “fusion” dishes. $$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese r estaurant is drawing cr owds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs RED = ADVERTISER

SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake W ay, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and ser vice make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’ s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in ser vice, and most impor tant, this East End sushi bar ser ves excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿

ARIRANG 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9838. For many years a hidden jewel in the Buechel area, this fine Kor ean r estaurant-plus-sushi-bar r eopened recently in the former quarters of Oriental Express in the Middletown area. $ p ✿ KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s few r estaurants devoted entir ely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is wor th a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿ LEE’S KOREAN REST AURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secr et since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an of fice building, but push past the counter to the back r oom, wher e you’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic Kor ean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿ PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA LOUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 295-2441. This popular Highlands spot boasts an edgy, high-tech Japanese style, complete with a live video wall. Look for lighter Asian far e, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p ✿

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:13 AM

Page 77

MAI’S THAI REST AURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’ s is the eater y to beat among the metr o ar ea’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (Stony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy , Sala Thai of fers Louisville an upscale Thai alternative, presenting ethnic far e in a stylish setting that places it among the best, and cer tainly the most upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p ✿ SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, of fering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿ THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family of fer a small but well-pr epared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai r estaurant, this Gar diner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, per haps responding to its r egular visitors’ pr eferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Pr eston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” r epresents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana. The “Smile” represents my r eaction to its simple but ver y well prepared Thai far e. Don’ t ask for the five-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangkok befor e moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. W oodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Café ranks not just as one of my favorite Vietnamese r estaurants, but one the city’ s best of any variety, par ticularly when value and price ar e taken into account. Authentic V ietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1216 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2233.

Dating back to the ’80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management still offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as well as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p ✿ CAFÉ THUY V AN 5600 National T urnpike, 3666959. A bit of f the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier , and prices ar e hard to beat. Don’ t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿ LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110, 106 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. Lemongrass Café of fers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, Thai and Chinese far e in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so ar e the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the

h = LATE NIGHT

❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 77

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:13 AM

Page 78

owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the ef fort if you love r eal Asian far e and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End stor efront is well wor th seeking out. The chef goes beyond the or dinary, preparing authentic V ietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor . I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or ser vice. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfor t A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple test: at the end of the meal, I must not miss meat. Zen Garden passes this test with flying wok and chopsticks. $ f ✿

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-center stor efront has become a popular after -work gathering spot for the city’ s growing community of immigrants fr om Bosnia, for whom it’s a comfor table place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ h ✿ BOSAN-MAK 3825 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456-1919.

Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿ DJULI 5312 S. Third St., 368-5199. Bosnian fare is the specialty in this tiny spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center . Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primar y clientele, but ever yone’s welcome to discover this hear ty Y ugoslavian cuisine. $ KRESO’S RESTAURANT 218 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, 348-9594. A former theater now houses a charming r estaurant run by a friendly Ukrainian couple. Lunch and dinner feature eclectic fare from Bosnian salads to W ienerschnitzel and goulash.

There’s a lar ge bar , and the r enovated theatr e is available for parties and receptions. $$$ p

ERIKA’S GERMAN REST AURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a str ong German heritage, Louisville is woefully shor t on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungr y cr owds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel family comes straight fr om Bavaria to Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic far e. The setting has as authentic a feeling as the hear ty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. Owner Tom O’Shea (also of Flannigan’ s and O’Shea’s) has done a great job of endowing this old St. Matthews saloon with an upscale feel, gourmet-style dining options and a very popular bar. $$ p e h ✿ IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. A warm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful place for a tall glass of Guinness, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f ✿ MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter A ve., 473-1222. A carefully constructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿ 78 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. Celebrating its 50th anniversar y this year, O’Shea’s offers a steady schedule of music, an assor tment of beers and mainstr eam American pub grub, fr om the cheesy fries to the Reuben sandwich. $$ p f e h ✿ SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighbor hood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e h ✿

AMERIGO 1871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-4040.

Chef Anthony Lorie, once a chef at RA W and later a co-owner of Bluegrass Bistr o in the Derby City Antique Mall, now takes the helm of this new Italian-style East End spot, first Louisville outpost of a small but gr owing Nashville-based chain that has won applause for quality. $$$ p f h ✿ AMICI´ 316 Ormsby A ve., 637-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Scott Risinger host this inviting Italianstyle restaurant that brings a touch of T uscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f ✿ ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 326-5555. Y ou don’t have to be an Italian grandfather to play bocce, now that ther e ar e several venues ar ound town for this amiable game. The six-cour t suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by spor tscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eatery , with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ ✿ BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’ s recipe has all the necessar y ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S IT ALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your or dinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery . This place dramatically exceeds expectations. Fr om warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jef fersonville IN, 285-1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighbor hoods, Come Back Inn looks pr etty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’ t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ DAVINCI BY LENTINI’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 2450205. Paying homage to the original, now defunct Italian-American favorite Lentini’s in the Highlands, this Italian-American spot occupies a spacious shopping center venue near Middletown. $$$p f ✿ FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050.

An East End landmark for 30 years, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmosphere, and the fine Italian food prompts the comment, “They do everything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p ✿ LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley , formerly home to Butterfly Gar den (which moved nearby), is now back in business with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f ✿ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. This popular suburban r estaurant will break loose from an Ohio-based chain this year to become independent. Its successful formula will remain, featuring hearty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas. $$ p f ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

MELILLO’S 829 E. Market St., 540-9975. Adjacent to the locally owned and operated Felice V ineyards on East Market, Melillo’ s of fers hear ty and delicious home-style Italian-American far e — and you can enjoy it with a glass of vino. $ p f ✿ OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventur es of this national firm. Bright and noisy , it of fers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 339-7190, 9730 V on Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Dar den chain, Olive Gar den now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian r estaurant in the casual dining industry. Hear ty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Of fices for blocks ar ound empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hear ty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Satur days, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿ PORCINI 2730 Frankfor t A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining r oom and a stylish alfr esco patio facing busy Frankfor t Ave. make Por cini’s an even more popular destination, a place to see and be seen — and, while you’re at it, enjoy a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p ✿ PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this ef fort may be his best yet. W ell-crafted Italian specialties range fr om pizzas and pasta to steak Flor entine, with a fine, all-Italian wine list to go along; all served with panache in sleek quar ters dominated by a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p f ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but gr owing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property in the Shelbyville Road Plaza space that once housed Payless shoes. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes ar e served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-5575. Old-fashioned Italian-American family fare is ser ved up with a warm and casual welcome at Ray Parr ella’s, the latest ventur e of a family that’s been pleasing locals for a generation. $f✿ ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844, 10206 W estport Rd., 339-0808. This longtime favorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choice of ItalianAmerican entrées, with a great view of the city from the Jeffersonville riverside location. $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desser ts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 2669 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers ar e prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just of f I-71 at Buckner well wor th a special trip out from the city. $

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:13 AM

Page 79

TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’ t been over -served by restaurants, this good-sized stor efront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an exper t’s hand with hear ty, r ed-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $ ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfor t Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish V olare kicks that image up a notch. W ith a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secur ed Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining. $$$ p f ✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. From Central Spain, authentic Castilian food ranging from tapas to a memorable paella make this Highlands standby a unique experience reminiscent of dining on a square in Madrid. $$$ ✿

and stay for a light lunch that featur es Moroccan dishes and a br oader range of Middle Eastern far e. $fe✿ AL W ATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the r ecipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb bir yani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ THE F ALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bar dstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to of fer quick and af fordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter enter tainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern far e in a casual, quick-service setting. $ ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Yet another Middle Eastern eatery, yet another good inexpensive source of food on Frankfort Avenue. $ f ✿

LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega of fers diners the city’ s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar , featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿

OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 4543737. This Hikes Point spot, run by a friendly Moroccan couple, offers a variety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eastern accent. A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $

MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. Gifted young chef Fernando Mar tinez (also of Havana Rumba) hits the culinary jackpot with this East End hot spot.

His international array of Spanish inspir ed small plates (“tapas”), imposing paella and libations has won critical acclaim and made Mojito a local favorite. $ p f h ✿

OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $ ✿

PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6461.

This eater y’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only source of Argentinian cuisine.

Steaks seared on authentic parrillada charcoal grills are a primar y draw, but ther e’s excellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f ✿

PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eater y in the Highlands of fers a splendid mix of gyr os, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ ROAD TO MOROCCO 308 W. Chestnut St., 3765855. You can browse Moroccan arts and crafts and pick up a bottle of Moroccan wine at this little shop in the r enovated Henr y Clay building downtown,

SAFFRON’S 131 W . Market St., 584-7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has elevated this Persian (Iranian) restaurant far beyond a mer e ethnic eater y. Stylish decor, an intriguingly exotic menu, and a level of careful, pr ofessional ser vice wor thy of a whitetablecloth dining room. $$$ p ✿ SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standar d American far e at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SAHARA CAFÉ 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1338. Gyros, falafels and other familiar Middle Eastern dishes ar e well presented in this small, new restaurant in a new St. Matthews retail block. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor , 426-9954, 153 S. English Station Rd., 244-1341. Offering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly grew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and color ful stor efront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread and a variety of Persian delights. $ ✿

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfor t A ve., 896-4046; 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507; 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096; Fourth Street Live, 589-9245; 6661 Dixie Hwy, 9958805; 3115 S. 2nd St., 363-8888; 4005 Summit Plaza Dr., 326-3070. Rapidly expanding in its bid to grow into a r egional chain, this excellent, af fordable

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown Road and now housed in this exoticlooking East End building that has housed a string of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. The expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good value. $$ f ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’ s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it pr oduces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ ROYAL INDIA 4123 Oechsli Ave., 896-0025. Related by family to Kashmir Restaurant in Lexington, Royal India of fers a br oad menu of traditional Northern Indian far e. What’s more, it is curr ently the only place in Louisville where you can find the tasty vegetarian cuisine of Southern India. Highly recommended. $$ p ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN REST AURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this r estaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buf fet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN CUISINE 1702 Bardstown Rd., 4738889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buf fet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 79

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:13 AM

Page 80

string of Cajun eateries has changed its corporate name (from Gumbo A Go-Go) to avoid trademark conflicts with a similarly named chain. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320, 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2080.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style far e is the draw at Joe’ s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

CACHITO MIO CUBAN CAFÉ 11316 Maple Br ook Rd., 326-3544. This East End spot is primarily a Cuban-accented coffee shop, but you can also get a fine Cuban sandwich, pastries and empanadas.

There’s also a small specialty gr ocery with Cuban and Brazilian goods. $ ✿ CUBA LIBRE 702 Highlander Point, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2822. The hills above New Albany may seem an unexpected place for a Cuban r estaurant, but owner and chef Ber tha Brandon — a r ecent arrival with her husband from Miami — is cooking up tasty and authentic Cuban cuisine in r enovated space that formerly housed a Tumbleweed. $$ p f e ✿ HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli A ve., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting Cuban restaurant is sibling to the equally popular Mojito T apas Restaurant. Bountiful ser vings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key W est or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar , have earned Havana Rumba a place on my shor t list of local favorites. $ p f ✿ TASTE OF JAMAICA 2017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner W arren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine to a city too long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $ h ✿

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Bazo’ s Fr esh Mexican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot wher e you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f ✿ CANCUN MEXICAN REST AURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e ✿ DON PABLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, of fers full bar ser vice and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Gr eentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿ EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hwy., 969-9693, 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Highway 131, Clarksville, IN, 282-7174.

Louisville’s gr owing Mexican-American community has foster ed a happy tr end: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿ EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfor t A ve., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican r egional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the tr endy flair of Rick Bayless’ s Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the far e mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿ EL NOP AL (10 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a gr owing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican far e in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ 80 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249, 2319 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-9880. This modest little eater y used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family fr om Mexico, it’ s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL REY MEXICAN REST AURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’ s mor e Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns my recommendation for tasty far e, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food envir onment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿ EL RODEO MEXICAN REST AURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL T ARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 241-2320, 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fair fax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373, 412 S. First Ave., LaGrange, KY, 225-5995. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genr e of r estaurants run by Latinos and of fering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Bor der culinar y adventure without compromise. $ ✿ EL TORO MEXICAN REST AURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metr o, El Toro earns my r ecommendation for food, ser vice and environment. TexMex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿ ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 893-9297, 7707 Pr eston Hwy ., 962-5380, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291.

One of the first of the mor e authentic locallyowned Mexican r estaurant gr oups, Ernesto’ s remains consistently r eliable. Fr om the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e ✿ FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ p ✿ KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962-8526.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eater y that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican far e and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA HERRADURA 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN., 280-8650. Is it possible to enjoy truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English? These friendly folks make it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling staff make you feel at home.$ ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. You may want to bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, wher e English is sometimes tentative. It’ s wor th the ef fort though, for excellent authentic Mexican seafood and fish dishes that go well beyond taqueria status. $$ ✿ LA PERLA DEL PACIFICO 4906 Preston Hwy., 9694445. Although it shar es a name — and an authentic Mexican bill of far e with plenty of seafood and fish — with an East End r estaurant, this South End spot is under separate ownership. $ ✿ LA ROSIT A T AQUERIA 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 113 Grant Line Road, 9487967. One of my favorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. The Market Str eet location, an historic old storefront, offers an extended menu of authentic Mexican far e; the Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria far e. $ f ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and mor e. $ p ✿ LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e into a r eal bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 297-8003, 9207 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community . With fresh bar and blender of ferings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p ✿ MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned four-star praise for years with his creative take on Mayan (Yucatan/Guatemala) cuisine at Mayan Gypsy. He carries on this winning tradition with similar inspiring cuisine here. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIEST A 5414 Bar dstown Rd., 762-0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ ✿ MEXICO TIPICO REST AURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy ., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico T ipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it r eaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ PUERTO V ALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quar termaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p ✿ QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bar dstown Rd., 454-3380, 970 Br eckinridge Ln., 721-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Drive, 429-5151, 100 Daventr y Ln., 412-6202, 8602 Citadel W ay, 493-9606, 3021 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-9654, 1321 Herr Ln., 618-3622. This chain operation extends fr om Louisville to Frankfor t and Lexington. Fastfoodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and inter esting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can af ford. $ f ✿ ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and r oasted golden br own. Chicken simply doesn’ t get any better than this. $ ✿ RUBEN’S MEXICAN REST AURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eater y in a centur y-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿ SENOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555. One Mexican chain r estaurant, Habanero’s, moves out another moves in, and all’ s well for those who love Mexican food in a casual sports-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿ SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bar dstown Road, 459-7776.

Saul Gar cia, who’s been associated with the local chain of Los Aztecas eateries and the shor t-lived Olmeca’s, brings his brand of authentic Mexican fare to this Douglass Loop location. Fans of Los Aztecas will find familiar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p h ✿ TACO BUENO 2909 Hwy. 62 Jef fersonville IN, 2844073. This growing Texas-based chain, a competitor

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

e = LIVE MUSIC

58-81_Guide_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:13 AM

Page 81

to Taco Bell, makes its first entry in the Louisville metro. Early r eports declar e it “better than the Bell.” $ f ✿ TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as T aco Bell was born in Southern California, The T aco Tico chain has been gone fr om Louisville for mor e than a decade. Its happy r eturn has been drawing remarkable crowds out to this Southwest Louisville location. Us, too. $ ✿ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuf f, but Anglos ar e thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿ TEQUILA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 7803 Old Third Street Rd., 368-3591. $ ✿

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 8936637, 12001 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6250, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9372 Cedar Center W ay, 614-7722. The food may be mor e fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made fr om quality ingr edients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer Park Dr ., 4122461. A contemporary spin on traditional favorites offers a range of delights fr om the Ultimate Fajita to margaritas in a setting that emulates Old Mexico décor. $$ p f ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that featur es gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in r estaurant and an inviting bar . $

pf✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations).

Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern far e adds steaks and grilled far e to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in dr oves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 637-5399. $ BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Str eet intr oduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espr esso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eater y, but a cultural hangout. $ f BUFFALO MADISON COFFEE COMP ANY 701 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 218-8559, IUS Campus Librar y, 941-2699. These locally owned coffee shops are fine places to enjoy a cof fee drink and a pastry. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $

f✿ CLEO’S COFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ h COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿ COFFEE TREA T CAFÉ Blvd., 582-2408 $ ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

429 W . Muhammad Ali

DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy , with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’ s has ever ything you would expect in a college-neighbor hood cof fee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 2827000. $ ✿ DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. Louisville’ s r oster of serious cof fee shops continues to grow. Playing the local card, it features quality cof fee beans r oasted by Suner gos, Atomic Saucer and Jackson’s Organic Coffee, plus fine tea and, coming soon, light lunch far e and pastries. $

fe✿ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e ✿ HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfor t A ve., 899-5551, 1295 Longest A ve., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bar dstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 894-9413. Spar tan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee r oasted on the premises and a shor t list of pastries, desser ts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545, 627 S. Four th St., 540-9909. Of fering two ways to get wir ed, this cozy neighbor hood cof fee shop also functions as one of Louisville’ s top Internet cafés, wher e you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you sur f the ’net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb of fers fresh hot cof fee, espr esso drinks and fr esh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B U.S. Hwy 42, 2922710, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Four th Str eet Live, 5612041, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly oldfashioned book shop, with comfor table seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality cof fee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Br eckenridge Ln. (Books-aMillion), 894-8606, 4300 T owne Center Dr ., 4262252. $ f ✿ LA VIDA JA VA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4129393. Joining the city’ s gr owing ranks of cof fee shops, La Vida Java is one of the first food options in the r ecently r enovated W estport V illage shopping center. $ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e RAY’S MONKEY HOUSE & KID CAFÉ 1578 Bardstown Rd., 212-4338. A ver y nice fit with its crunchy-granola Highlands neighbor hood, this “progressive cof fee shop and gathering place” is consciously child-friendly . Look for quality organic cof fee roasted on the pr emises and vegetarian/vegan snacks. $ f e ✿ RIVER CITY COFFEE CAFÉ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-2308. Don’t let the wor d “coffee” in the name fool you: This Cr escent Hill spot isn’ t just a cof fee shop. You can enjoy breakfast and lunch, including a good array of soups, salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ f ✿

SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTER Y 2122 S. Pr eston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pr o — the r esult is Suner gos Cof fee, another in the gr owing cadr e of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545 $

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKER Y CAFÉ 129 W. Cour t Ave., Jef fersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’ t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine baker y but a place wher e bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is par t of the culinar y program at Sullivan University . It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bar dstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, ar tisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the pr emises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of cof fee. $ f DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bar dstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville ar ea since your gr eat-aunt was a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries pr ovide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this baker y is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cr eam while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ SMALL TIMES BAKER Y 2956 Richland A ve., 4515499. An appetizing selection of br eads, cakes, cookies, even bagels is attracting hungr y supplicants fr om ar ound the r egion to this new bakery in Hikes Point. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfor t A ve., 8954554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿

SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f

✿ STARBUCKS COFFEE (32 locations) $ f

❀ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

= MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 81

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:15 AM

MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

82 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 82

4/21/08

9:15 AM

Page 83

MAP INDEX

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 83

4/21/08

9:15 AM

DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

84 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 84

9:15 AM

Page 85

MAP • 2

4/21/08

NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 85

4/21/08

9:15 AM

EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

86 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 86

9:16 AM

Page 87

MAP • 4

4/21/08

SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 87

4/21/08

9:16 AM

EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

MAP • 5

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

88 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 88

9:16 AM

Page 89

MAP • 6

4/21/08

SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 89

MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

MAPS • 7 • 8

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp 4/21/08 9:16 AM

90 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 90

MAP

11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

MAPS • 9 • 10 • 11

9:16 AM

9 > FAR EAST > MIDDLETOWN 10 > NORTH EAST > PROSPECT

4/21/08

MAP MAP

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp Page 91

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 91

4/21/08

9:17 AM

SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

MAP • 12

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

92 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 92

9:17 AM

Page 93

MAP • 13

4/21/08

SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 93

4/21/08

9:17 AM

INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

94 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 94

15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

MAPS • 15 • 16

Page 95

MAP

9:17 AM

16 > INDIANA > JEFFERSONVILLE

4/21/08

MAP

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

www.foodanddine.com Spring 2008 95

82-96_Maps_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

9:17 AM

96 Spring 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Page 96

00_OBC_OFC_IFC_IBC_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:42 AM

Page 4

hungry? like the wolf?

louisville

424 south 4th street 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com the official food of rock

00_OBC_OFC_IFC_IBC_spr08.qxp

4/21/08

8:41 AM

Page 1

Call Today to See What We Can Do For You!

3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205 502.456.6505 • sullivan.edu • 800.844.1354

Students from Sullivan’s National Center for Hospitality Studies will be cooking and baking for the United States Olympic Team in Beijing, China this summer.

Sullivan University is the only culinary school in the United States chosen to provide students for this event.

With degrees in Culinary Arts, Baking & Pastry Arts to our online degree in Hospitality Management, Sullivan’s NCHS is the best recipe for an exciting career!

2355 Harrodsburg Road • Lexington. KY 40504 859.276.4357 • sullivan.edu • 800.467.6281