Winter 2011 (Vol. 34) by Food & Dining Magazine

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WINTER 2011 | NOV - DEC - JAN

Want to eat out? check out our restaurant guide page 52

profiles gary’s on spring garage bar majid’s

plus the new pizza revolution soup party|hot cocoa|cocktails www.foodanddine.com

Garage Bar’s steamed clams in a white wine broth.

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WINTER 2011 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE VICE PRESIDENT PAUL M. SMITH EDITOR DANA MCMAHAN BUSINESS MANAGER DAVID BARHORST COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR ASHLEE CLARK GREG GAPSIS DAVID LANGE JENNIFER PITTMAN ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS J. CHRISTIAN WALSH KATY YOCOM CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE BART WHITEHOUSE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 or call (502) 509-EATS (3287) or subscribe online at

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: Garage Bar’s steamed clams in a white wine broth. (see story page 32) Photo by Dan Dry 4

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contents

WINTER 2011 - VOLUME 34

RESTAURANT GUIDE

DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,100 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

FEATURES THE NEW PIZZA REVOLUTION: Trace the tasty path of the evolution, no, revolution, of pizza in Louisville.

PROFILES GARAGE BAR: The gang from Proof renovates a defunct service station, creating a retro/funky pizza, beer and country ham oasis in NuLu.

MAJID’S: 30 years in the food and hospitality world gives Majid

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Ghavami’s newest restaurant warm elegance and delicious charm.

GARY’S ON SPRING: An elegant new restaurant shines off the beaten track.

COLUMNS

STARTERS

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

FOOD QUEST TO COOK: Pigalle Crêpes

What happens when a food writer crosses the line to the chef’s world?

FROM THE EARTH: Sheltowee Farm

Gourmet mushrooms spring forth under the capable hands of local farmer Billy Webb.

$10 CHALLENGE: Come Back Inn

A fine meal on a budget can be found at this Germantown institution.

LIQUIDS HIP HOPS: Against the Grain A “brewer-driven brewpub” moves into Slugger Field.

HOT COCOA: Meant to be Savored Satisfy your chocoholic urge with inspired local takes on hot cocoa.

SPIRITS: Vodka

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To hell with the rules! Drink more vodka!

RECIPES EASY ENTERTAINING: Tis the Season for Soup

A pot full of recipes to warm your soul on a winter’s night. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1

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horseshoe.com

HEAVEN served by the ounce.

There’s no quality vs. quantity debate at Jack Binion’s ® Steak House just incredible food and plenty of it. From prime ribs and porterhouses to king crab and Maine lobster, our award-winning chefs up the ante on fine dining. They don’t serve meals. They ser ve feasts. So you may leave wanting more, but you’ll never leave hungr y.

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starters comings & goings

comings

goings

Small businesses, we are told by economists and politicians, are the heart of the American economy. Small businesses create jobs, foster growth, respond quickly to consumer demand. As the epitome of the small business model, restaurants, perhaps, can be seen as a harbinger of regional economic health. If this is true, perhaps the Louisville and southern Indiana regions are weathering the current economic uncertainties better than we think. In the last few months, 31 new restaurant locations have opened in the area, 19 new businesses, and 12 established restaurants that have opened new outlets. In the same time, 15 stand-alone locations have closed, and two multi-outlet eateries have closed one location. That is not quite 2 to 1 on the positive side of the ledger, but close.

OPENINGS Perhaps the most notable new restaurant is Against the Grain Brewery, which quickly took over the Slugger Field space abandoned by Browning’s, at 401 E. Main St. The brewing will be super vised by Jerry Gnagy and Sam Cruz who learned their way around malt and hops at Bluegrass Brewing Co. They promise a rotating choice of beers, an ongoing exploration of the brewer’s art. The Troll Pub Under the Bridge is finally open after extensive renovation in the labyrinthine basement of Whiskey Row at 150 W. Washington St. Another long renovation, Baxter’s 942 Bar and Grill at 942 Baxter Ave., is finished, and now serving. Louisvillians’ apparently unquenchable appetite for sushi is being addressed by no fewer than three new sushi purveyors. Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake is rolling rice and seaweed at 285 N. Hubbard’s Ln., Masa Japanese has opened at 12336 Shelbyville Rd., and Arata Japanese is at 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42 in Prospect. Bloom’s Café has reopened for lunches at its old St. Matthews address, 307 Wallace Ave. Its hiatus this summer was related to a dispute about parking, which is now, owner Nancy Royce hopes, resolved. The café scene has been enriched by two other new businesses, Neighborhood Café, 119 St. Matthews Ave., and City Girl Farm Café, 4600 Shelbyville Rd. Two new pizza parlors join the rich pizza culture in town, Sal’s Pizza & Wings at 812 Lyndon Ln., and Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint, 2011 Grinstead Dr. Two new sandwich shops have opened, Firehouse Subs and Potbelly Sandwich Shop. The former is at 215 S. Hurstbourne Pky., the latter at 302 S. Fourth St. Out in Norton Commons at 10640 Meeting St., Scotty’s Village Market will be selling sandwiches, salads and to-go dinners as well as groceries. In the Highlands, at 2009 Highlands Ave., Baby D’s Bagels & Deli plans to extend their hours on weekends to tend to those who need sustenance after midnight. 8

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Old Louisville gets a new coffee house with Smokey’s Beans at 1451 S. Fourth St., and the Highlands gets fancy confections with Jamie’s 14K Cupcakes at 938 Baxter Ave. After a vigorous expansion of the restaurant choices in New Albany, Ind., over the last year or so, only one new restaurant has opened there recently, Louis Le Francais, at 133 E. Market St., adding French bistro fare to the rich ethnic mix across the river. U of L students and Old Louisville residents have a wide choice of casual food at the recently completed housing and retail complex on the site of the old Masterson’s. Saigon One has opened at 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., and several other multi-outlet restaurants have opened new locations there, too. Those include Home Run Burgers & Fries (303 W. Cardinal Blvd.), Jimmy John’s (341 W. Cardinal Blvd.), Cluckers (313 W. Cardinal Blvd.), Qdoba (1832 S.Third St.) and Quills Coffeehouse (327 W. Cardinal Blvd.). Quills is also opening a New Albany location, 137 E. Market St. Other restaurants that have opened additional locations include Yafa Café at 1489 S. Fourth St., Smashburger at 312 S. Fourth St., Oishii Sushi at 2810 Taylorsville Rd., Carmen’s Cupcakes at 1401 Bardstown Rd., Senor Iguanas at 9909 Taylorsville Rd., and Cellar Door Chocolates at 140 N. Fourth St., in the Galt House.

CLOSINGS The most notable, regrettable, but not unexpected recent closing is 732 Social, 732 E. Market St. For some months reports of bankruptcy reorganization, landlord-tenant disputes and imbalance between kitchen creativity and business savvy had the cognoscenti expecting the worst, and it finally happened. The Tequila Factory is the latest effort that could not make a go of the seemingly cursed location at 917 Baxter Ave. The O’Shea Irish pub empire has shrunk by one restaurant, with the closing of Brendan’s, 3921 Shelbyville Rd. That space will soon reopen as Tin Roof. And Coco Tran has closed Zen Tea House, 2246 Frankfort Ave, so she can concentrate on her new endeavors, Heart & Soy and Roots.

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Downtown, Red Star Tavern at Fourth Street Live has closed, as has Michael Murphy’s, longtime purveyor of beer and burgers at 701 S. First St. It’s All Greek to Me, at 2716 Frankfort Ave., in Crescent Hill, has sold its last gyro, and Cyclers’ Cafe, 2295 Lexington Rd., has closed. Several ethnic eateries have closed: #1 Asian Buffet, 1250 Bardstown Rd.; Los Jarritos, 4231 Taylorsville Rd.; El Rey Mexican Restaurant, 2918 Hikes Ln.; and Istanbul Palace, 2840 Goose Creek Rd. Maxwell’s Bar & Grill, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., and Staxx Roadhouse, 9601 Shelbyville Rd., have both closed, as has Papa’s Grilled Chicken, 2622 Portland Ave. Two multi-outlet chains have closed one location, Calistoga Artisan Sandwiches at 401 E. Chestnut St., and Tico Taco, at 2613 Charlestown Rd., New Albany.

CHANGES And, finally, two eateries have moved. Old Louisville Coffeehouse is at 4956 Manslick Rd., and Sister Bean’s is at 5225 New Cut Rd. F&D

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quest to cook pigalle crêpes

BY DANA MCMAHAN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Quest to Cook– Pigalle Crêpes From byline to working on the line — What happens when a food writer crosses into the chef’s world?

How many times have I snapped a photo of a picturesque scene in another city of a person cooking up street food? And is there anything more charming than someone standing over a crêpe griddle, deftly swirling the batter into the thinnest of pancakes, then topping with melted Nutella, perhaps, and sliced bananas? Better still if they’re wearing a striped boatneck shirt — all the more French they look, and the better the photo. Buying the finished product — handing over my euros in return for a piping hot crêpe — was part of the quintessential French experience as well. And it was one my husband and I so loved that we decided to bring it to Louisville. So this summer found us the subject of photos. As we swirled our own crêpes at our own griddles at the St. Matthews Farmer’s Market, folks wandered by and snapped photos (some surreptitiously, some not). And I learned the other side of the food business — the hard side. I exchanged my place at the table and behind the pen for one where I was in the hot seat — I served food, planned menus, budgeted food costs. And I’ll tell you, those of us who read and write and eat have the easy job. My summer with Pigalle Crêpes taught me quickly just how hard food-service workers have it. My beret and striped shirt, the artfully arranged jars of Nutella, the quaint bunch of flowers — they all made fun photos for onlookers, but behind the cute facade we were hustling to keep the waiting customers happy and spending long hours on our feet when it seemed everyone else in the world was out for a leisurely Saturday morning. Food TV may have made chefs into celebrities, but on the line, there’s nothing glamorous about the work. And I only cooked four hours on Saturday mornings, a mere taste of the chef ’s life. But that taste, while it showed me in no uncertain terms that it’s exhausting work cooking for people, also revealed what may drive those in the kitchen. Seeing someone bite into a dish you’ve just prepared, and hearing them moan out loud in pleasure, can make you forget how early you had to get up, how much your feet and back hurt. Watching little boys’ or girls’ faces light up as they discover the thrill of melted Nutella in their very first crêpe, I can see how that makes it all worth it for chefs. I’m not, of course, a chef. And neither is my husband, though he at least has spent years working in kitchens and waiting tables. We made this up as we went along. But the best Saturdays at the market were the days we got to learn from some of our favorite chefs in town. It started when Bobby Benjamin of The Oakroom came to our pre-opening crêpe party/trial run in our backyard. “You should let me come cook with you sometime!” he said. “Have guest chefs at the crêpe stand.” I loved that idea. A challenge a la 12 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

Top Chef was unfurling in my mind. Turn a chef loose in the market to buy what’s in season and create a market crêpe of the day. So we did just that. Dallas McGarity of Theater Square Marketplace kicked off the project (and introduced me to what seems to be all chefs’ love for goat cheese — and a tough lesson on food costs!). I felt less like an impostor playing at this cooking game as I flipped crêpes alongside Dallas in his crisp chef ’s jacket. Throughout the summer we were also joined by Kathy Cary of Lilly’s; Bobby Benjamin, who showed up with liquid nitrogen to the immense delight of market-goers who got to watch him flashfreeze blueberry and goat cheese crêpes; cookbook author “The Bluegrass Peasant” David Domine; and Seviche’s Anthony Lamas, who brought a Latin flair to our French crêpes with his signature: caramelized onions and sweet peppers and cheese, with heirloom tomatoes, an arugula vinaigrette and vegetable foam. But most Saturdays it was just the two of us and a helper, rolling into the pre-dawn lot to begin the race to unload the Volvo wagon, set up our tent and tables and have everything ready to go by the time the first hungry patron wandered by at 8 or before. Cranky at first at being up so early, without fail the scent of frying bacon cheered me up. And as the sun rose over the market bustling with farmers and vendors, and my coffee began to do its job, I’d dart around the lot to scope out what was fresh that day. I’d grab my eggs from Duncan Farms on the honor system, then buy ingredients for that day’s market crêpe. That thrilling sense of deciding what people would eat that day was another small taste of what may inspire chefs to continue their long hours and exhausting work. By 8 I’d set out the chalkboard menu, don my apron and prepare to forget all my own needs for the next four hours. Hungry? Thirsty? Need the bathroom? Too bad — people are waiting (some none too patiently) for their crêpe. Soon I entered The Zone: head

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down, battling the temperamental French griddles, taking orders and money, keeping supplies ready for my husband. I’d look up on occasion to see the market thronged with shoppers. Customers passed in a blur — I could take an order and five minutes later have no idea that person had already ordered and paid.The ones that stood out were those that were kind — or not. I had to wonder what would make someone so unhappy that they’d complain about a wait, or worse, about the price of our crêpes. But for every person that stormed off because of a wait or made nasty comments about the prices, there were a dozen that came back to tell us they loved the crêpes, who smiled with anticipation as we handed them their plate, who came back every single week to order their favorite.

Seviche’s Anthony Lamas (above), and his caramelized onions, sweet peppers, heirloom tomatoes and cheese crêpe with an arugula vinaigrette (left). At the end of the season, when all was said and done, I was glad to be finished. I’m so very happy that there are chefs, other people who have what it takes to cook for the rest of us. But I am much happier on my side of the kitchen, thank you, where I order, and pay, and maybe write about a meal. I admire those chefs with a passion for their work, and found it the thrill of a lifetime to work alongside such talented professionals. But they’re just that — professionals. From now on, I will leave the real work up to them. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 13

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about food from the earth

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

From the Earth – Sheltowee Farm Marvelous Mushrooms from Kentucky

Many factors fuel the locavore renaissance — interest in local economies, concern about the carbon costs of food supplies and smarter consumers who just want quality and flavor not found in hybrids developed to withstand storage and transport across thousands of miles. This trend to support local growers has created oppor tunities for people with vision, commitment, and the guts for risk taking. Billy Webb, 54, whose Sheltowee Farm produces gourmet mushrooms, reflects all three qualities. This Pike County native also is intelligent, detail-oriented, and has an innate drive to solve practical problems — traits which served him well as a Navy special operations officer, and later, as an official in the Kentucky Economic Development Cabinet. Webb got hooked on foraging for gourmet mushrooms through his wife, Becky, while an officer at the Crane Naval Surface Warfare Center near Bloomington, Ind. “My wife’s family was into it and so it came naturally. We were out in the woods on one of our first dates,” Webb said. “Morel mushroom hunting is almost like a cult in that area and so 14 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

every April or May, when the conditions were right, we’d be out in the woods looking.” Webb’s interest and knowledge grew but it wasn’t until a decade later when he was working as an economic development official that the idea for Sheltowee Farm jelled. The catalyst was the Tobacco Settlement Agreement, which funneled billions of dollars to the states for health initiatives and agricultural diver sification away from tobacco crops. “There were grants to help people start goat farms, improve Kentucky cattle, and the like,” Webb said. “I heard a consultant’s presentation on cultivating shiitake mushrooms, crunched the numbers, and it looked so good that I went home to tell my wife, ‘We can make a million doing this.’ Well, consultants lie but my dad said, ‘Cut in half all their projections and if it looks like it can be self-supporting, then go for it.’ ” Today, Webb operates Sheltowee Farm (Shawnee for “Big Turtle,” the name given to Daniel Boone) on a 216-acre spread nestled in the Daniel Boone National Forest that his coal miner father, Elmer, bought to retire on.

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“Dad and Mom got to spend five days in their new house out here before she died. That was six years ago,” Webb said. “Now, I run my business here and it allows me to be a son to him. I also like building a new crop on this same farm that once grew tobacco. And I can involve my family; so I get to be a parent rather than a stranger who spends all day off at an office.” Ten years ago, Webb’s path to success was to use traditional methods — inoculating and weathering oak logs before harvest

don’t wear watches. All they need is to go through certain cycles.” Instead of bucking logs, Webb now fills bags with five pounds of oak sawdust or 20 pounds of wheat straw and puts them into a huge autoclave to sterilize the media which he will later inoculate with shiitake or oyster mushroom spores, respectively. “Now, after we perform a couple of magic tricks in the growing facility, we can produce the oyster mushrooms in 28 days

211 Clover Lane Chef Troy Schuster often features dishes with Sheltowee Farm mushrooms — (left) pan roasted chicken with a maitake and shiitake risotto, and (right) shiitake flan with crispy Prosciutto di Parma with a Champagne vinaigrette. (center) Billy Webb. — but to go on a very large scale. Today, after twists and turns, including near total ruin, he runs a climate-controlled growing facility where bags of growing medium hang until gourmet shiitake and oyster mushrooms are harvested on a tighter schedule than the outdoors would ever allow. “We started by processing four to seven thousand logs a year, which required moving four tons of trees multiple times in a process that spanned eighteen months to two years,” Webb said. “By 2007, we had 18,000 logs in production, when, two years of drought hit and destroyed it all. We suffered a $1.2 million loss and there was no crop insurance (for mushrooms).” Such misfortune would deter most, but Webb had already been planning a new initiative — indoors. “I wanted to get beyond seasonal production, harvesting only between April and October,” Webb said. “Fortunately spores

and shiitake mushrooms in ten weeks instead of almost two years. When ready, we have an eight to ten-hour window in which to pick,” Webb said, pointing at the curve on the underside of a mushroom’s cap, a slight change in coloring along the edges, and just the right amount of flare in the gills underneath. “And I pick at least once, and maybe twice, a day to deliver as perfect a product as possible.” Webb sells primarily to regional chefs and restaurants that are glad to brand dishes with Sheltowee ingredients. His weekly Tuesday run to Louisville includes deliveries to Whole Foods and a “who’s who” list of restaurants — Porcini’s, Limestone, 211 Clover Lane, L&N Wine Bar, Papalino’s Pizza and Eiderdown to name a few. “Some customers have been extremely faithful since our beginnings,” Webb said. “And several are ready to increase their orders as we grow our production.” F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 15

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liquids hip hops

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Brewing “Against the Grain” at Louisville Slugger Field Local brewpub veterans form their own dream team

In its most familiar contemporary usage, “adaptive reuse” describes the process of modifying old structures for purposes other than those originally intended. The American craft beer revolution is like that, too. In a conceptual sense, craft brewers inhabit Old World styles and methods inherited from previous eras, but in many cases radically embellish and alter them for modern tastes and times. What’s more, in terms of bricks and mortar, many of America’s finest craft brewers nurture their creations in formerly redundant factory or warehouse buildings, and even the stray day-old bread store. Once destined for the wrecking ball, these places receive new life. In Louisville, fans of craft beer and baseball are familiar with a wonderful example of such a rebirth. In 1998, ground was broken for Louisville Slugger Field, home of the Triple-A Louisville Bats. With a flourish of adaptive reuse,

architects artfully incorporated a block-long historic red brick train shed into their design, seamlessly melding it into the new construction as portal for the project, with space to include retail space with a Main Street frontage. The new ballpark was ready for the first pitch of the 2000 season, and excited fans entering from the east side could see thousands of square feet of empty gravel, because it wasn’t until late spring of 2002 that construction was completed on Slugger Field’s primary tenants: Browning’s, a microbrewery and restaurant, and Wellinghurst’s, an upscale steakhouse. The two eateries shared common ownership, a state-of-theart kitchen, fresh beers crafted in the city’s most visually arresting tower brew house — and sadly, an unexpectedly rocky future. Over the years, management changed several times. Wellinghurst’s eventually yielded to Park Place, and then fell into disuse. Browning’s closed for a period in fall 2008, before reopening in

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2009. Amid the tumult, the brewers — Eileen Mar tin early on, and later Brian Reymiller — succeeded in maintaining high brewing standards, and yet it always seemed that the most logical strategic plan for a brewpub, emphasizing the house-brewed beer, was never seriously considered. By summer of 2011, Reymiller was gone, the coughing and sputtering became audible, and it looked as though Browning’s wouldn’t survive. Then, in the bottom of the ninth, drama mounted. A pinch-hitter was announced: Against the Grain Brewer y (AtG). Louisville craft beer rooters cheered loudly, because now the brewery located at a ballpark molded from a train shed would itself undergo a much needed dose of adaptive reuse. Browning’s closed for good in July 2011, and renovation work immediately began on the interior. Licensing and legalities followed in due course, and when the doors opened again in early October, it was as Against the Grain. To deploy an analogy drawn from popular music, AtG’s principals might be considered a super group. Collectively, they are honored veterans of the local brewery and restaurant scene, and as owners, brewers and front-of-the-house managers at AtG, they offer something hitherto unseen in Louisville: A brewer-driven brewpub. In a collective e-mail interview, AtG’s founders explained what “brewer-driven” means in practical terms: As brewers, beer is the thing we know, and it is the best foot for putting forward. Beer is the thing we care about, and our chef really cares about the kind of food that goes well with that beer. Invariably, you do better at something you care about than something you don’t. The brewer is Jerry Gnagy, a laconic Kansan and longtime head brewer at Bluegrass Brewing Company’s St. Matthews location, where he excelled at creating distinctive seasonals and specialties. This improvisational skill girds the very backbone of AtG’s rotating beer program. Adam Watson’s educational credentials as a student of law attest to an analytical bent, one ideal for navigating regulatory muddles. It is countered by pure craft beer

passion and a quasi-Dionysian respect for the fermented libation in the context of its community of enthusiasts. AtG general manager is Andrew Ott, who has long experience in the food ser vice business. The AtG collective sees Ott as a steady, organized hand at the wheel, ensuring employee consistency and consumer satisfaction alike. Finally, the utility man among AtG’s governing body is Sam Cruz, the consummate “people person,” who assisted Gnagy in brewing at St. Matthews prior to a stint as brewer at BBC’s newest location on Third Street. Cruz can sell, greet, manage, brew and do whatever else arises. One of the most plainly revolutionary aspects of AtG’s embryonic and ambitious brewing schedule is its conscious rejection of the flagship beer, that primary brand that sells well enough to float the financial brewhouse boat year-round, even as seasonals and lesser-selling styles come and go. Instead, new AtG beers are being released as often as possible, with the brewpub’s rotation composed of style, taste and mood groupings rather than predictable single brands.There’ll be something for you, just not necessarily the same as on your last visit. Also, expect to see wood-barrel-aged, sour and “wild” beers as production time permits, in addition to varying inter pretations of Pales, Blondes and Browns, and remember that while at BBC, Gnagy brewed a White Porter. Verily, anything is possible. The “Fifth Grain,” chef Reed Johnson, is the helmsman for an AtG menu with a carnivorous, smokehouse theme, one influenced in part by his home in Western Kentucky (think: mutton), but not to the exclusion of vegetarian balance. Johnson is practicing a farm-fresh, seasonal approach to his offerings, and as a veteran of the genre, believes in the virtues of pairing fare from the kitchen and the brewery. It takes chutzpah to go against the grain, and to adaptively reuse Louisville’s decade-old brewery in the ballpark, and there might have been safer ways to try, but by swinging for the fences, Against the Grain Brewery was giving Louisville’s craft beer community a shot of adrenalin even before its own Opening Day. F&D

Pictured from left to right: Jerry Gnagy, Andrew Ott, Reed Johnson, Sam Cruz and Adam Watson. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 17

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people and places profiles

Coals Artisan Pizza’s “The Brownsboro” pizza, made with margarita pepperoni, mozzarella and Romano cheeses and basil.

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

The Pizza Revolution

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You sit down to a pizza at Garage Bar. You notice the crust — blistered, glistening, lightly charred — as you bite through a thin layer of cream, studded with bacon, garlic and sweet corn kernels. You savor the combination of salt and sweet, the chewy crust and toothsome bacon. It occurs to you that this delicate creation is a far cry from the pizza you grew up with: the saucy slabs at Impellizzeri’s, the reliable deliveries from Papa John’s that you’d grab out of a cardboard box as you watched a basketball game with friends. As you savor the little beauty in your hands, you wonder: What the hell happened to pizza in this town?

You say you want a revolution The past 18 months or so have seen a radical shift in the Louisville pizza scene. Take a look at the names that have hit the scene: Papalinos. Mozz. Coals. Garage Bar. MozzaPi. Peek at the resumes of the pizzaioli: Garage Bar’s Michael Paley is executive chef of Proof; Papalinos’ Allan Rosenberg has done chef turns at Park Place and Seviche and owned the Frankfort Avenue fine dining spot Danielle’s. Check out the super-hot dome ovens stoked with wood or coal. Consider the dough recipes. The toppings. The pizzas don’t even look like pies Louisvillians grew up with. You could call it a pizza revolution. And Allan Rosenberg is pretty sure he knows who started it. “I think we started it all,” he says. By “we” he means himself and his partner, John Browne, owners of Papalinos NY Pizzeria. Rosenberg is a burly guy, a little scruffy, a lot tattooed, who once served up $30 plates at upscale restaurants. But his biggest success has come in a cramped, overheated storefront on Baxter Avenue. There, he has found glory baking 18-inch pizza pies, quartering them, and serving the oversized slices for three dollars and fifty cents a pop. But Papalinos isn’t just about big, cheap slices. What’s revolutionary for Louisville is what goes onto those slices — an impressive array of artisanal toppings: bacon cured on the premises, sausage made in-house, smoked duck, elk meatballs, roasted fennel, whole-milk mozzarella — right alongside standards like pepperoni and banana peppers. You say you started a revolution, Allan? Well, he thinks so. “We opened very busy and got The Courier-Journal restaurant of the year,” he says. Hard on the

heels of that success, “I noticed a lot of places started opening up.”

The beginning of the beginning But to trace the roots of the revolution, you have to look back to 1998.That’s when Louisvillian Tony Palombino opened a tiny delivery-and-carry-out business on Willis Avenue. Three years before, Palombino’s Pollotate chickenpotato-and-rosemary pizza won the International Pizza Festiva contest. “The media picked it up and put my pizzas and the concept on the map,” Palombino says. He called his concept “wood roasted pizza,” but the real news was in the gourmet toppings and sauces. Palombino taught Louisville that pizza sauce didn’t have to be red. Instead he offered garlic cream sauce, pesto sauce, or no sauce at all. And the toppings? Pepperoni was fine, but how about some Parma prosciutto?

Papalinos’ Allan Rosenberg

Palombino didn’t think what he was doing was radical. “Potatoes, chicken, pesto sauce — those are toppings that have been used in Italy for years.” But the departure from local tradition was a huge change, and one that Louisvillians embraced. This was California-style gourmet pizza, and we opened our hearts to it, not that we loved Clifton’s or Wick’s any less.

Better ingredients, better pizza If Tony BoomBozz broke ground for gourmet pizza and Papalinos introduced artisanal toppings, a slew of new entries have taken the concept ever farther. When Paley opened Garage Bar this summer, he kept his culinary standards high in developing recipes like the sweet-corn pizza ($16). At Coals Artisan Pizza, the Waverly features www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 19

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prosciutto, fig jam, and gorgonzola cheese finished in a balsamic reduction ($14) — salty, acid, tangy, and sweet. Then there’s the ingredients’ pedigree. Local sourcing is more complicated than signing a contract with Sysco, but co-owner Mark Peters says Coals sources locally where it can, using Dreamcatcher Farms meats, Weisenberger flour, and produce from Creation Gardens. Paley sources much of his produce from Woodland Farm, the homestead of Garage Bar co-owners Steve Wilson and Laura Lee Brown.

It’s all in the oven If there’s a dividing line between the competitors in Louisville’s new pizza revolution, it’s in how they approach the crust. And the crust, ultimately, determines what kind of pizza place you can be. If you want to make pizza that stands up well enough for delivery or carry-out, you need to begin with a highgluten, high-protein flour so it hangs together when it’s stretched, piled with toppings, and plopped in a box for thirty minutes. You need gas deck ovens that cook evenly at about 550 degrees so you don’t have to babysit the pies while they cook.You might even need a conveyor, like Tony BoomBozz uses, to handle the volume. If, however, you’re creating pizza to serve in your restaurant alongside other menu items — if you’re creating pizza that’s not built to travel — then you’re talking about a different 20 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

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Exemplars of Louisville’s pizza renaissance (clockwise from left): Papalino’s meatball pizza, made with locally-sourced pork and beef, roasted red peppers, basil and fresh mozzarella; BoomBozz’s award-winning (International Pizza Festiva contest and Top 50 Best Pizzas in America by Food Network Magazine) Pollotate pizza, its glazed crust topped with chicken, roasted potatoes, red onion, Asiago and mozzarella cheeses; MozzaPi’s Margherita pizza, made with fresh mozzarella, basil with a rich tomato sauce and flash-baked in a French wood-fired oven; Garage Bar’s Brussels sprouts pie with roasted garlic, basil, cream and bacon, its crispy crust charred in a 900-degree custom-built oven.

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One of the only coal-burning pizza ovens in the state, Coals Artisan Pizza’s oven burns at a scorching 1,100 degrees and can bake a pie in about three and a half minutes.

crust entirely. These days, in Louisville, you’re talking about a Neapolitan-style crust — that light, blistery, charred creation that bears its toppings as if they were adornments. A Neapolitan-style crust starts with a fine, soft flour formed into a high-moisture dough that can survive a trip through a 900degree wood- or coal-burning oven. At those temperatures, pizzas flash-cook in as little as 90 seconds. That kind of heat can reduce toppings to cinders, so toppings are often added post-oven. That’s the kind of pizza they’re making at Mozz Mozzarella Bar and Enoteca, at Coals, at Garage Bar, and at the soon-to-open MozzaPi. MozzaPi’s crust begins with a sourdough starter and is naturally leavened and hand-kneaded to create a varying cell structure, which gives the dough “a little more character” than a machine-mixed dough, says co-owner and pizzaiolo Tom Edwards. The hand-kneading, says co-owner Justyne Richardson, “definitely makes a difference in the product. It’s about the philosophy behind it — really investing the time into the product.You’re getting to feel the dough in your hands.”

Pizza passion It may be a sign of the times that there’s a bit of contention over cred among this new batch of pizza start-ups. One restaurant claimed for a time to be certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, then quietly backed off that claim. Raise the question 22 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

of kneading techniques — who does it which way, and who was the first to do so — and you may hear a touch of heat, or frostiness, in the response. But that’s kitchen chatter. What matters is what goes into diners’ mouths. “People are passionate about pizza,” Rosenberg says. “When I was in fine dining, we’d sell a thirty-dollar plate, but people make a bigger stink over a three-fifty slice of pizza.”

If this is a revolution, what happens to the old guard? To a person, the restaurant owners and pizzaioli agreed on one thing: There’s plenty of room in this town for competition. “It’s been a culinary revolution, really,” says Mozz’s Antonovich. “Louisville has finally become a mature town where you can find any style of pizza done well.” He runs down his list of personal “bests”: Best chain? California Pizza Kitchen. Best artisan? Garage Bar. Best Neapolitan style? “Mozz,” he says proudly. Best Sicilian? Impellizzeri’s. Best for the family? “Tony BoomBozz. I call Tony Palombino the local hero. And you gotta put in a good word for Mike at Wick’s. He has the funnest place to go to have great pizza.” What does the local hero think about the new pizza revolution? Palombino keeps his answer simple: “It is constant validation.” F&D

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about food $10 challenge

BY ASHLEE CLARK | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

$10 Challenge –Come Back Inn Big bowls, good atmosphere — Italian pub is worth the trip and spending a couple more bucks

A romantic mood, delicious food and great company are the ideal components of a successful dinner date. The Come Back Inn provides the first two. The good dinner companion is up to you. I don’t remember how I discovered this Italian-American pub. And I don’t remember why I took my new husband on a date there one night. But after a few visits, I realize that none of that really matters — I’m just glad I found my way there. The cozy atmosphere and the tasty pasta have earned the Come Back Inn a spot on my list of date-night restaurants, joining a group of places where I know I can take my favorite dining companion for some good conversation over an appetizing and reasonably priced meal. Compared to more visible, trendy areas of the city’s dining scene, the Come Back Inn’s Louisville location (the other is in Jeffersonville) is fairly out of the way on Swan Street, tucked among shotgun houses and a security supply company. A neon sign bearing the restaurant’s name is the flashiest thing about the modest building, so it’s hard to guess what to expect once inside. This all serves to add to the allure of this hidden gem.

Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cash-strapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house. Visit www.facebook.com/FoodandDine to leave suggestions for future columns. The Come Back Inn combines a watering hole and dining establishment that appeals to a wide range of customers, whether they are in the mood for a martini or marinara. The bar to the right of the entrance sits in the shadows in front of a well-stocked liquor and wine selection. The dining area, on the other side of the restaurant’s threshold is better-lit, with wood paneling, vintage black-and-white photographs and emerald-hued booths.

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On my most recent visit, the movie “Wolverine” played quietly on the lone television perched above the bar, while a B.B. King satellite radio station piped blues rhythms throughout the dining room. But somehow, it all worked and added to the cozy ambiance. At the Come Back Inn, the easiest place to start when working with a $10 budget is the sandwich menu. Meat is the star of the Come Back Inn sandwich show — there’s meatball, Italian beef, grilled pork loin and chicken, just to name a few. There’s even an Italian take on the Hot Brown, a dish straight out of our fair city. For $10, a customer can also sift through appetizers (ranging from $3.75 to $6.50) and salads (from $5 to $8.75) to create an Italian sampler-style meal. Chicken fingers and breaded ravioli are on offer for those who like to begin their meals with something battered and fried. But it’s more interesting to veer toward the lighter dishes such as Crostini Florentine, toasted Italian bread with sautéed spinach, tomato and mozzarella cheese, or the Caponata, a Sicilian salsa made of tomato, eggplant and olives. And the salad menu will help you earn your daily serving of vegetables, with options such as the Insalata Caprese with baby field greens, sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, sliced tomatoes, mozzarella and basil pesto. It’s too bad the pasta entrée selections, many of which are more than $10, don’t include salads. Perhaps I’ve grown wrongly accustomed at the larger Italian chain restaurants to receiving a salad that is included in the price of the entrée. The simple house salad with mixed greens, red onion, tomato, black olives and cheese would be a great way to start an Italian dinner if it didn’t add to the bill. On my latest visit to the Come Back Inn with my husband, I decided to cautiously creep above my $10 limit, no salad and all, to enjoy a pasta dish as opposed to a sandwich. It’s refreshing to see they don’t soak all their pasta dishes in marinara and instead provide a nice selection of sauces, such as garlic cream, basil pesto, white wine or a simple herbed olive oil. I could enjoy any of the delicious-sounding pastas. Some standouts include the Greco, which features spinach, Kalamata olives, sun-dried tomatoes, red onion and feta, or the Amatriciana with pancetta, mushrooms, diced tomatoes, red pepper flakes and Chianti. All pasta dishes are served with linguine; substitutions cost a dollar or two more. After some heated internal debate, I selected the Puttanesca ($11.50), a dish of linguine tossed with chicken, capers, black olives, Roma tomatoes, onion, garlic, olive oil and white wine. My couple of extra dollars was a worthy investment. When in the Come Back Inn, you must order the pasta. It took less than 10 minutes for our waitress to bring me a huge, piping hot bowl of pasta with a breadstick resting on top. The bowl was large enough to serve as a makeshift hat if the situation ever arose (fortunately, I can think of no such situation). Capers and olives were plentiful throughout the linguine, while the onion and tomato provided nice color to the dish. After a quick stir to evenly disperse all of the ingredients, my first bite was a quiet taste of heaven. The white wine sauce was subtle and let the saltiness of the olives and capers command the dish. Each noodle was perfectly al dente and coated in sauce, but the linguine wasn’t swimming in it. The dish managed to taste very light while still being filling. This meal will give you a lot of pasta with little regret when you contemplate the empty bowl at the end of your meal. And your bowl will indeed be empty, whether you complete you dish at the restaurant or take the remainder home. I would usually be a bit disgruntled for failing to meet my $10 limit. But I have no regrets after a night at the Come Back Inn. Dishes are plentiful, simple and tasty, and that’s really all you need to have a great meal. The atmosphere is comfortable and familiar, like a warm sweater. And I had a fun evening with my husband. Not a bad night for $11.50. The Bottom Line: Puttanesca with linguine: $11.50 Water: $0 Total (after tax, before tip): $12.19 Dinner exceeded my $10 budget by $2.19, but was easily worth it.

COME BACK INN 909 SWAN STREET | LOUISVILLE, KY | (502) 627-1777 415 SPRING STREET | JEFFERSONVILLE, IN | (812) 285-1777 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 25

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easy entertaining soup party

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Tis the Season for Soup Recipes to warm your soul The short, gray days and long, dark nights of winter come with a reward. No other time of year is a pot of soup burbling on the stove, tantalizing aromas filling the house, quite so enticing. Ideally you’d be lounging in front of a fireplace when you bend over your steaming bowl to inhale the first heady whiff of your piping hot soup. But even if you’re perched on the couch in front of TV, cradling the bowl as it warms your hands, there are few happier places to be than about to take your first spoon of a hearty, rich soup on a cold winter’s evening. And soups make a great focus for cold-weather parties. Over the course of a week, you can make several kettles of soup, which only get better as the flavors swap around and mingle as they sit in the fridge a day or two. That way, all you have to do the night of your party is to bake a rich and hearty bread pudding for a serve-yourself dessert, and set the soup kettles on low a few hours before the guests arrive. Or, a soup theme is great for a pot-luck supper. Ask friends who are eager cooks to make their favorite soup, or see if they want to test out one of the five we offer here (cooking-averse guests can bring the drinks). We show our soups here in small servings, because we want guests to sample several. You can cut the work by doubling the quantities of two or three recipes, and using larger mugs or bowls. These recipes are perfect for taking off the chill and warming the soul, and will welcome any visitor to your home the moment they cross your threshold with their mouthwatering fragrance that promises homemade bliss to come.

Bourbon Beef Noodle Soup

To marinate the steak, combine the Bourbon, maple syrup, garlic, salt and pepper in a medium-size (SERVES 6) bowl. Add the steak and toss to coat. Cover and 1 /2 cup Woodford Reserve Bourbon refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours. Drain 1 /4 cup maple syrup the steak through a sieve and reserve the marinade. 4 tablespoons garlic, chopped In a stockpot, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive 1 teaspoon kosher salt oil over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook 1 teaspoon black pepper until browned, about 3 minutes per side. Remove 1 pound rib eye steak, cut into 1/2 -inch cubes steak from the pan and set aside. 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided Add the remaining olive oil and onions and sauté 3 cups onions, sliced until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in reserved mari2 14-ounce cans low-sodium beef broth nade, beef broth and water. Bring to a boil and add 2 cups water the noodles, cooking until they are just soft, about 8 2 cups eggs noodles minutes. Stir in the steak and spinach and cook until 4 cups spinach the spinach is just wilted. Check for seasoning and 1 /4 cup sliced green onions, for garnish serve the soup garnished with green onions.

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Mushroom Soup (SERVES 6)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, diced to yield about 1½ cups 5 cloves of garlic, minced 3 /4 pound fresh wild mushrooms (half cremini and half shiitakes), thinly sliced 3 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves 1 /2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 /2 teaspoon ground pepper 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 3 tablespoons dry sherry 1 tablespoon soy sauce Leeks, slivered and fried, for garnish

Pea Soup (SERVES 6)

Note: This soup can be served hot or cold.

2 2 1 4 2 1 /3 1 1 /2

tablespoons unsalted butter cups leeks, chopped cup yellow onion, chopped cups low-sodium chicken broth 10-ounce packages frozen peas cup fresh mint leaves, chopped teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper Plain Greek yogurt, for garnish Chopped chives, for garnish Hot sauce, for garnish

Heat the butter in a large saucepan, add the leeks and onion, cook over medium-low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until the onions are soft. Add the chicken broth, increase the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the peas and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the peas are tender. Remove from heat and add the mint, salt and pepper. Puree the soup in batches: place 2 cups of soup in a blender, puree on low speed. Remove and reserve. Repeat until all the soup is pureed. Remember, hot liquids expand so put a kitchen towel over the blender lid for safety. Serve with a topping of yogurt, chives and hot sauce.

28 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

Melt the butter and olive oil in a 5quart (or larger) stockpot over mediumhigh heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to brown. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, 2 tablespoons of the thyme, salt and pepper; cook until the mushrooms become limp. Add the broth and deglaze pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cook until the mushrooms are tender, about 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Transfer about half of the soup to a blender and process until smooth. Return the mixture to the pot and stir in sherry and soy sauce. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve garnished with remaining thyme and fried leeks.

Butternut Corn Chowder (SERVES 6)

5 thick bacon slices, chopped 1 yellow onion, chopped 1 2-pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded and chopped into 1 /2 -inch cubes 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 3 garlic cloves, chopped 2 teaspoons canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, chopped 1 12-ounce bag frozen sweet corn 2 teaspoons fresh sage chopped, plus a few sprigs for garnish Kosher salt Black pepper In a large, heavy saucepan, cook the bacon over medium-high heat until crisp. Remove and reserve (save a bit for garnish). Add the onion to the pan and sauté until just soft. Add the squash, chicken broth, garlic and chipotle peppers and simmer until the squash is soft, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Mix in the corn and reserved bacon and simmer about 8 minutes until the corn is tender. Transfer about 3 cups of the soup to a blender and puree. Pour the puree back into pan with the soup and season with salt, pepper and sage. Serve garnished with the bacon crumbles and sage sprigs.

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Italian Green Bean Soup (SERVES 8)

2 1 4 4 2 4 1 /2 1 /2 1 /2 1 /2 1 /4 1 2 2 4 1 4

tablespoons olive oil large onion, diced carrots, diced stalks celery, diced garlic cloves, minced potatoes cut into bite-sized pieces teaspoon pepper teaspoon salt teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon onion powder teaspoon celery salt bay leaf teaspoons sugar Dash of red pepper flakes tablespoons of Lipton onion soup mix cups of your favorite spaghetti sauce 28-ounce can of Italian green beans cups water

TIP: Crackers broken over a soup bowl is an all-American tradition, but we like to think outside the box on such matters, and suggest an array of other possible garnishes that will add layers of taste, texture and surprise to your soups.

Soup Garnishes Fresh thyme Fried capers Crumbled bacon

Diced green onions Croutons Fresh sage leaves

Jack’s Bread Pudding

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pour 7 tablespoons butter into 13 x 9-inch baking pan; swirl tablespoons unsalted butter, to coat bottom and sides. In a large bowl, beat eggs and sugar until thickened and light lemonmelted loaves day old (very dry) egg colored, 3 to 4 minutes. Add vanilla, nutmeg, bread cubes, crust removed cinnamon, half & half, raisins, coconut, pecans and 1/4 cup butter, and beat on low speed eggs to combine. Place a layer of bread cubes in cups sugar tablespoons vanilla extract buttered baking pan. Pour half the liquid mixture over bread layer, distributing nuts, coconut and teaspoon freshly grated raisins evenly. Continue to layer bread cubes nutmeg and liquid mixture until both have been used. teaspoons ground cinnamon Press bread down into liquid often to make sure cups half & half all cubes are covered. Set pan aside until bread cup golden raisins, soaked in has absorbed all of the liquid (about 45 Jack Daniel’s Tennessee minutes). Bake until crusty and golden brown Honey on top, about 45 to 60 minutes. While pudding cup flaked coconut is baking, prepare Jack’s Sauce. Cool bread cup toasted pecans, coarsely pudding to lukewarm, poke with a fork and soak chopped the pudding with the warm sauce. cup unsalted butter, melted

(SERVES 12-18)

7 2 3 11/2 2 1 11/2 3 3 /4 3

/4 1

Jack’s Sauce 1

In a large 6-quar t stockpot over medium-high heat add olive oil. Sauté celery, carrots and onions until the onions turn translucent. Add minced garlic and sauté 1 minute. Combine the rest of the ingredients and cook on medium-high heat until potatoes are tender.

/2 1 1 /2 1 /2

Fried leeks Seasoned oyster crackers Fresh chopped chives

cup unsalted butter, room temperature cup sugar pint heavy whipping cream cup Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey

In heavy saucepan, heat butter and sugar until melted and sugar has dissolved. Add the cream and Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey, cook until silky smooth and light in color, about 15 minutes.

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liquids hot cocoa

BY DAVID LANGE

PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

HOT COCOA

When I think of hot cocoa there is the vision of my mom adding cocoa, fresh milk and sugar in a saucepan and lovingly blending and heating it over the stove. Then there is the undistinguished taste of powdered cocoa out of a tear-open packet blended with water to make what is mislabeled hot chocolate. Hot cocoa has quickly risen in popularity to the point that it is featured in coffeehouses, chocolate shops and gourmet bistros. So the quest continues to find the ultimate hot cocoa recipe to satisfy the chocoholic urge that lingers in all of us. Like its coffee cousin, cocoa is an agricultural product that is grown, cultivated, harvested and processed in primarily tropical regions. And both have quite a history, with coffee’s birthplace rumored to be in the Middle East while cocoa’s emerged from the Central American region more than 2,000 years ago. But that is where their similarities seem to part. We all know the direction that coffee has gone, being featured in espresso drinks, various brewing techniques and in hot and chilled applications. We are certainly in a coffee culture. But cocoa has not been a featured component — until lately. Here in the United States, it is very common for whipped cream or marshmallows to be added to the creamy concoction. But in other countries, a variety of ingredients are introduced to satisfy their taste options. For example in Mexico, cinnamon, ancho chile powder and ground almonds are standard. In other countries such items as dry mustard, honey, vanilla, and cardamom are added to deliver a unique drinking experience. The pressing cocoa question is: How can I make the “ultimate” cup of hot cocoa at home? To find the answer, I knew that a conversation with a “chocolate guru” was in order. My first lesson was from master artisan Erika ChavezGraziano, owner of Cellar Door Chocolates, a chocolatier at 1201 Story Ave., in Butchertown. From the beginning I knew I had encountered a unique instructor. Quality was the absolute key in every part of the lesson from Erika and Rebecca Williams, her general manager. From their insistence on pure coverture chocolate, the foaming of whole milk using their espresso brewer, the offering of seven unique spices to include in the drink, and the finishing touch of homemade marshmallow cream, the resulting drinks can only be described as “Hot Chocolate for Adults.” Erika was kind enough to share two recipes that I had the privilege to sample. 30 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

Green Chile Coconut Hot Chocolate 2 12 6 1 /2

▲

ounces white chocolate (preferably discs) ounces whole milk (heated or steamed) drops of coconut oil teaspoon ground dried green chile

Place the white chocolate in a large cup and fill halfway with the hot milk. Stir thoroughly. Add the coconut oil and dried green chile and stir again. Finish with the rest of the milk.

Honey Hot Chocolate 2 ounces dark chocolate (preferably discs) 12 ounces whole milk (heated or steamed) 1 teaspoon honey Place the dark chocolate in a large cup and fill halfway with the hot milk. Stir thoroughly. Add honey and stir again. Add the remainder of the milk and top with whipped cream or marshmallow cream if desired.

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My next chocolate tutorial came from Fred Moore, chocolatier extraordinaire at Coco’s Chocolate Café at 1759 Bardstown Rd. Fred gave me a tour of the origin of chocolate, showing me displays of cocoa beans, cocoa nibs and cocoa butter, all essential components to the rich hot chocolate dream. Fred explained the difference in the cocoa that is produced in various regions throughout the world. Central and South American cocoa has a fruitier taste, while cocoas from the African countries of the Ivory Coast and Ghana display a more intense chocolate flavor. Coco’s serves two distinct types of chocolate decadence. Their hot cocoa can be made from milk, dark, white or semisweet chocolates, made to order and displayed in a 12-ounce cup, adorned with mini-marshmallows. For a more intense experience, Fred suggested a drinking chocolate, once again hand-crafted and served in a 3-ounce demitasse size. This will produce the ultimate chocolate nirvana. Hot chocolate is a beverage that must be savored and is an experience that will not be fulfilled by using the commercial substitute that we see today given the misnomer of hot cocoa. By indulging in a chocolate creation made at either one of these artisan establishments, you will appreciate the “god-like” elixir that the early Mayans and Aztecs so richly treasured. However, if you would like to have a hot cocoa that includes some of the local libation that our area is famous for, then follow this recipe by Jennifer Pittman, awardwinning bartender at Proof on Main. Now this can really warm up a winter evening.

JAPANESE

GRILL

AND

SUSHI

SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550

Jack Daniel’s Honey Hot Chocolate 2 ounces Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey 1 teaspoon sweetened condensed milk Couple dashes of orange bitters 2 ounces dark chocolate 6 ounces warmed whole milk

649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

Place all ingredients in a mug and stir. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream and orange zest. So when the winter frosts chill you to the bone, remember the words of James Beard: “A steaming cup of hot chocolate with buttered toast is surely one of the most heartwarming, body-warming, and taste-satisfying combinations known to man.” F&D

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 31

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GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market Street (502) 749-7100

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Tune up Your Appetite at Garage Bar

One would think you’d be busy enough if your job was an executive chef at an award-winning restaurant. But Michael Paley of Louisville’s Proof on Main is showing how, with the right partners, passion can take you further. Paley has partnered with Steve Wilson and Laura Lee Brown, owners of 21C Hotel, to open Garage Bar at 700 E. Market as an entertaining hangout with a heavy dose of nostalgia and Gasoline Alley charm. And, as at Proof, Paley ensures great food expertly prepared out of the best possible ingredients. The Garage Bar vibe is casual and hands-on in a building originally built as a saloon in the 1920s but which has served the better part of the last 90 years as a filling station and garage. “I was thinking about this for three years and wanted a casual hang-out, the kind of place you’d go after work,” Paley said. “And we wanted to be in this neighborhood.”

(right) Assorted hand-shucked oysters; (pictured) a country ham tasting.

Paley was referring to Louisville’s East Market Street, which has the makings of becoming the downtown’s most diverse, multiple-use neighborhood. Visionaries there have adopted the name “NuLu” to suggest parallels to New York City’s SoHo district, a similar once industrial, commercial, residential neighborhood undergoing a creative resurgence. In NuLu, one feels the energy of adaptive reuse among art galleries and lofts, restaurants and shops, and both old and new businesses taking root.

The Setting Garage Bar fits in nicely at the corner of E. Market and S. Clay Streets. Its modest size and generous set back leave room for outdoor banquettes and picnic tables under what once was the service station’s gas pump overhang and on the garage bay parking areas. Two large overhead doors let in light and can be opened when weather permits.

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Outside Garage Bar, big crowds gather on the weekends to wait for a table inside, flirt, and patiently observe Jonathan Schipper’s sculpture, “The Slow Inevitable Death of American Muscle,” a full-size Chevy Camaro and a Pontiac Firebird crashing into each other in slow motion. (opposite – clockwise from top left) Garage Bar offers an assortment of oldstyle sodas including Peach and Grape Nehi and Ale 8-One; “check please!”; inside seating in the front room; a warm pancetta salad; an example of the funky/arty décor; bialys fresh from the oven.

In keeping with the theme, and Wilson and Brown’s reputation as two of the city’s most committed modern art collectors, out front is an unusual Jonathan Schipper sculpture, “The Slow Inevitable Death of American Muscle,” which features a full-size Chevy Camaro and a Pontiac Firebird crashing into each other in almost imperceptible slow motion. Inside, an eclectic décor embraces the building’s past. From the ceiling hangs a steel rack holding tires and a couple of large reel canisters where lube hoses used to retract. Underneath, a line of roomy booths separate the dining and bar area from the entry and busy kitchen area with its bordering ‘ham bar’ (more later). There’s an old battery storage rack, some “Atlas Fan Belts and Radiator Hoses” signs and shelving that surely once held cans of oil and air filters which are now stacked with cans of tomatoes and T-shir ts with the label “From Farm to Garage,” one of Garage Bar’s slogans. In the dining area, a long refectory table with unmatched, wooden café chairs is set with stacked plates, stout glass tumblers, and tin cans holding knives, forks and napkins. Along the outer wall, steel stools and expanded metal screening face a black bar top 34 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

behind which wood and glass shelves, back-lit by clear windows, rise displaying assorted liquors and beers. Plank floors, painted brick or corrugated steel walls and, above it all, bare bulbs and long, old-looking fluorescent fixtures with tubes giving off an orange glow like they’re on their last legs, keep the vibe going.

The Idea “I grew up in New York and New Jersey where by-the-slice pizza shops were common and I loved them,” Paley said. “I’ve always wanted to do a downtown pizzeria, something that would be the opposite of Proof, the kind of place where you want to go when you’re off. Of course, we hire and train people to the same level as there (Proof), but here it’s more casual.” Just the setting tempts you to roll up your sleeves and kick back. Combine that with a craft beer and Bourbon-focused bar, a Spanish-influenced counter overhung with smoked country hams, a raw oyster bar and expertly crafted pizza done in traditional Neapolitan style, and it starts to sink in — Paley’s idea of casual reflects a strong sense of getting back to the basics.

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One of the basics is pursuing a pizza style that is a homage to the city which invented the dish: Naples. The modern pizza with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and basil — a Margherita — dates to nearly 200 years ago and celebrates the unification of Italy and its flag of red, white and green. But people in the Campania region, and Napoli (which was an old Greek colony and qualifies as one of the longest continuously inhabited cities on the planet), have been working on the basics of pizza since Roman times. “All of our dough is made with a natural starter; there are no leaveners or yeast. It is simply flour, salt and water and we feed it three times a day,” Paley said. “It is closer to artisan bread, strong but more wet, making it respond in a hot oven with a nice crust and chewy texture.” Paley, for all the accolades he has garnered (like being counted as one of Restaurant Hospitality’s 2007 “Rising Stars”), comes across as a quiet, softspoken man. You have to listen carefully to catch delight and pride in his voice, as when he talks about the kitchen as space that works and his delight in traditional baking methods. “The two most important items in here — the oven and the flywheel slicer — don’t need electricity or gas,” he points out. “It’s all done by hand.” The oven, a wood-burning, ceramictiled dome of stone and refractory brick a couple yards wide, dominates one corner of the kitchen. It was built by Stefano Ferrara, a third-generation oven maker from Naples reputed to be one of the best in the world. Inside, logs flame and embers glow on one side, with plumes of smokey heat roiling across the roof of the interior dome. For a little more than a foot above the flat stone surface it is nothing but shimmering, clean heat. Paley’s infrared thermometer reads 862 degrees. “Most typical pizzerias use shelf ovens at 500 to 600 degrees. Here we’re working at closer to 900 degrees,” Paley (above) Executive Chef Michael Paley hamming it up. (left) Sausage pizza with Calabrian chiles, rapini (broccoli), milled tomato and fior di latte cheese, fresh from the custom Ferrara oven.

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said. “Our dough is more wet and cooks quickly, in about 90 seconds, giving you a nice chewy texture inside but a crispy surface that blisters with a little bit of char outside — leopard spotted we call it.”

Menu Garage Bar offers what one customer called “highly evolved drinking food.” There is quality that grabs your attention and urges you to slow down and savor it, whether it is noting the flavors available in regional country hams or how the flavor of an oyster tells you something of the salty tide pool from which it came. The raw bar is stocked with carefully selected oysters and clams from Washington state and British Columbia ($3 each). That flywheel slicer creates delicious platters of thinly-sliced country ham served with ‘red-eye aioli’ (an espresso mayo), pickled peaches and crusty, artisan bread ($5 or $19 for four). During a recent visit hams from Kentucky, Virginia and Tennessee were featured. And a variety of gourmet pizzas ($11 to $16) at about 12 inches are more than enough for a very hungry person.Two can easily satisfy three people, but you might want to order a third just to ensure you get leftovers. “The New Sicilian (with braised fennel, goat cheese, tomato and lemon) and Potato Pie (potatoes, leeks, rosemary and cacao roma cheese) are our niche pizzas and I’m working on a Brussels sprout pie,” Paley said. “But we sell a lot of our Margherita, country ham (with Cremini mushrooms and milled tomatoes), and sweet corn (with roast garlic, basil, cream and bacon) pizzas.” The bar has a great liquor service, featuring Kentucky Bourbons and 30 different American and European craft beers ($3 to $25) and a tightly-focused wine list to complement the food. Befitting the strong dose of nostalgia at Garage Bar, you can also get an order of warm boiled peanuts, homemade pimento cheese on white bread, or rolled oysters ($5 to $8) or grab an old-style soda, like a Dublin, Ohio Dr. Pepper, Peach or Grape Nehi, Abita Root Beer, Ale 8-One, or Cheerwine, a 1920s precursor to cherry Coke ($4). Open for drinks and dinner seven days a week after 5 p.m., and also for brunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekends, Garage Bar offers a big dose of character and exceptional food in a neighborhood worth exploring. And while there, you can get a tune-up, check fluid levels and repair your appetite, all in keeping with the tradition of the place. F&D

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liquids spirits

BY JENNIFER PITTMAN | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

odka

The Gateway Spirit

I am a cocktail enthusiast, part of a small but growing handful of people who drink because we love the art of drinking. I love the theatrics involved in preparing a quality drink: the sound of ice cracking, the ease and elegance with which a bartender moves his fingers around the swiveled stem of a bar spoon, mist from orange and lemon peels releasing their oils, and finally, the moment a drink is poured into a glass, velvety smooth with a few ice crystals floating on top, ready to be experienced. Any cocktail involving fresh ingredients, bitters, and aged spirits has me salivating at the first glimpse of those tiny dropper bottles reserved for chemists and mad scientists filled with exotic house-made tinctures. I believe I speak for the majority of enthusiasts when I say that the more interesting cocktails usually involve complex flavors, and

Rigadoon

complexity comes from aging. What would a fine Bourbon or scotch be without years of aging in barrels? Would tequila and rum be as delicious without the aging that lends the more quality products that distinctive golden hue? Even gin, though it is a clear spirit, requires aging time because it has to be re-distilled to incorporate aromatic botanicals and herbs. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve heard that if you want to impress those around you, including the bartender, the rule of thumb is to order a cocktail using a brown spirit or gin. Plenty of bartender friends would agree with that one. But, as both a cocktail geek and a bartender, I say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;To hell with the rules! Drink more vodka!â&#x20AC;? In fact, what happened to the spirit deemed colorless and odorless? When did it become so uncool to drink vodka? I love it for being versatile and for its

The Reviver

The BLT Mary

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ability to bind flavors together, showcasing unique ingredients in ways that other spirits mask with their dominating sapidity. I think of vodka as the gateway spirit. It introduces people to one of the most important rules of drinking: balance. With a neutral base, you can learn from trial and error what flavors work well with others. When that concept is grasped, it’s easier to move onto those smokier, sweeter, spicier spirits. If you’re the cocktail creator, you’ll have a better understanding of what makes a balanced drink. If you’re the drinker, you’ll discover firsthand what is the art of drinking. It’s easy to develop a palate for richer, aged liquors. It takes skilled taste buds to appreciate the subtle nuances of vodka. At the end of the day, nothing to me sounds more pleasurable than kicking back with a delicious vodka martini in a frosty cold glass, shaken hard, tiny ice shards barely visible, just the right amount of vermouth, and garnished with three ripe olives. It’s the very simplicity of the drink, combined with quality ingredients and the skill of the bartender at mixing them just so, that makes the experience so perfect. Any person who partakes in that, well, I’m not judging at all. In fact, I’m envious if you do.

Some local bartenders are serving up envy-worthy examples of vodka cocktails. Give vodka a chance with one of these libations. I’ve always been an advocate of fresh ingredients behind a bar. They make the difference between an okay cocktail and the kind of cocktail you want to Tweet about. Seviche’s menu is an exploration of all things fresh, so it’s no surprise that their cocktails reflect that same attitude. Chris DeRome creates an inspiring drink that won’t make you think twice about ordering several more.

Rigadoon 2 ounces vodka /2 shot wheatgrass dab of local honey muddled cantaloupe

Shake and strain all ingredients over ice, top with soda water, and garnish with a pinch of wheatgrass. Mike Padgett from the Garage Bar introduces The Reviver, a playful twist on the classic, The Corpse Reviver. His thoughts on playing around with vodka? “I feel like I’m going to be shunned from the cocktail community if I make this.” However, with the same gusto and enthusiasm he embodies when

creating a Ginger Shandy or a Basil Gimlet, he whips up a fanciful, surprisingly complex drink that has me begging for more.

The Reviver 1 1 1 1

ounce vodka ounce fresh lemon juice ounce Lillet Blanc ounce Cointreau dash Absinthe

Shake and strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with a cherry. At the Village Anchor, Kyle Tabler is not afraid to experiment with and apply to vodka trendy concepts and flavors. The BLT Mary is the perfect example of vodka’s versatility and its ability to bind flavor components in a most harmonious way.

The BLT Mary 2 ounces bacon-infused vodka 3 ounces V-8 juice dash bacon salt dash celery salt dash Worcestershire Layer in a Collins glass, then garnish with romaine lettuce, bacon, and tomato.

About the Author : Jennifer Pittman has been bartending, consulting, and running the cocktail program at Proof on Main for the past four years. Her next venture will be teaching cocktail classes at Woodford Reser ve Distiller y for Brown-Forman. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 39

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people and places profiles

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Majid’s Magic – Unparalleled Hospitality, Innovative Cuisine

Next time you’re at Majid’s be sure and ask the proprietor if he’s named the fish. Majid Ghavami, the restaurant’s namesake, will know the one you’re talking about: a kissy-faced, 22-year old parrotfish that excitedly swims toward the glass whenever his steward approaches the tank. Aside from being a deserved kindness for anything that’s been alive since the 80s, naming the little guy is one of the few details Ghavami seems to have missed when assembling this welcoming new restaurant and lounge in Louisville’s St. Matthews neighborhood. This “Mediterranean-American” eatery hopes to revive a familiar dining location, whose past incarnations have made several appearances in the “Comings and Goings” section of this magazine. After a seventeen year run as Rick’s (it was owner Rick Dissell who installed the above mentioned tanks), Chenoweth Square has witnessed the shuttering of Wathen’s, Indigo, Wigginton’s and Gilman’s Pointe to name a few. Hungry St. Matthewsians can rest easy now, though, as early showings are strong for Majid’s — perhaps on account of the good cheer delivered by a certain unnamed mascot. Or, more likely, a better explanation for the restaurant’s continued popularity is the fusion of Persian, Italian and American classics from Executive Chef Charles Reed. Smooth vocals from crooners like Bobby J on the weekends probably doesn’t hurt either, nor does the assortment of dining styles offered in this snazzy, multi-use space. On one side, separated from the lounge by a glass partition, is the quiet, formal dining room. When not up for a sit-down, diners can find a low-lying leather chair in the lounge, order from a “small bite”menu and watch as the man whose name is on the menu tirelessly works the room.

Kentucky fried what now? With his distinguished touches of gray in his hair, classy even in his unbuttoned shirt collar, Ghavami could stand in for a certain brewery’s “World’s most interesting man” character. With a composed self-confidence, Ghavami explains the importance of greeting each guest with a handshake. It’s a carryover from his Iranian upbringing and the sense of Persian hospitality instilled in him then, as well as those lessons gleaned from legendary Louisville restaurant captains like Vincenzo Gabriele, who showed up in town the same year as Ghavami. In a roundabout way, we have Colonel Sanders to thank for Ghavami’s arrival here. In 1975, an Iranian education officer asked Ghavami where he’d like to study. After answering “America,” the teenager was pressed to be more specific and, considering the “finger licking good” fried chicken from a fast food joint that recently opened in Tehran, Ghavami quickly refined his answer to “Kentucky.” There was greater diplomatic ease between our two countries in those days before we were the “Great Satan” and Iran 40 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

Majid Ghavami was on the “Axis of Evil.” Here in the Possibility City there existed something of an open door policy toward Iranian students, so it wasn’t long before the 19-year-old, who spoke little English, found himself in the Highlands, pursuing a degree in engineering from Bellarmine. Ghavami expected to spend only a semester or so in Louisville before transferring to a bigger university in a bigger town, then return home with his degree. But a lot has changed since the St. Matthews restaurateur’s freshman year — not least of all, his plans. What does remain the same — 35 years and one Islamic Revolution later — is that Ghavami continues to enjoy a career that began as an after school gig. Amazingly, a 12-piece bucket of KFC can still be had in the

Tajrish section of Tehran for about 158,000 Rial. Granted, that acronym now stands for “Kabooky Fried Chicken” since the Shah was deposed in ’79. As change swept across Iran and the geopolitical landscape shifted, Ghavami’s life began to take root here in the Bluegrass, which included starting a family with the woman he’s been married to for the past 25 years. (Debbie Ghavami, a one-time model, is the decorator behind Majid’s swank, 6,000 square feet.) Ghavami went on to receive his MBA from Bellarmine, but his lasting education may have taken place at a kitchen sink on Eastern Parkway and Crittenden Drive. The Denny’s chain was still called Jerry’s back then and it was there that the part-time dishwasher worked his way up to waiter. (Ghavami claims to be the first male server in the franchise’s history.) Following the promotion, he would remain a front-of-house presence, soon graduating to Casa Grisanti — a 1980s hotspot routinely referred to as the house that put Louisville on the fine dining map. It was here that the Iranian student learned there was more to American menus than fried chicken — the only dish he ever ordered up until his first meal at Casa Grisanti’s. His tenure there also gave him the opportunity to form a fraternity with the true

up-and-comers of the local dining scene. Ghavami beams when listing the former co-workers who went on to build their own establishments. “I think there are about 17 operations in Louisville that all somehow started with those guys, from Vincenzo (Gabriele) to Dean Corbett to Dominic (Serratore), Matthew Antonovich who now has Mozz, Esse Chitsaz who has Pesto’s,” says Ghavami. “It was a great training school. That’s where I truly learned the fine art of serving and hospitality.”

Sheeshleek, shirazi, and sabzi More than anything else, Ghavami says that hospitality and diner experience are the key ingredients at Majid’s. But while it is a treat to have the owner stop by your table for a bit of chitchat, it will always be the food that fills a restaurant’s seats. Though the menu is dotted with the type of Persian influences we’ve come to expect from Ghavami, Majid’s certainly is a departure from the straightforward Iranian cuisine offered at Saffron’s, the downtown restaurant he opened in 2001. “This location, over the years, I think has become an institution,” Ghavami says of the new space. “Number one, I wanted to

MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq. (502) 618-2222

Smoked duck bruschetta

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stay faithful to the clientele who patronized this location and who know it as a place for American cuisine.” This is reflected in classic, Southern offerings like the shrimp and grits ($8), which features smoked cheddar and étouffé sauce. The dolled-up beef tenderloin sliders ($6) are also a bit more “western” than what we’d been used to seeing from Ghavami. These are topped with Provolone, red wine demi-glace and a dab of horseradish sauce. On the other end of the menu, there’s a filet mignon ($33), that’s served with Gorgonzola, pancetta and onion chutney. Not surprisingly, though, the items that stand out are those that hark back to Ghavami’s roots.This means the home cooked stews, dill-infused basmati and shirazi rice that his mother prepared back in Iran, as well as dishes that reflect the career stops he’s made along the way at successful Italian posts like Casa Grisanti and Volare, where he remains part owner. “The menu is small, but it is very classic,” Ghavami said. “Classics never get old and that is our core. One of the dishes I’m offering comes from the old Casa Grisanti: Tornado Rossini ($33).” The throwback Italian dishes like linguine in clam sauce ($18) intermingle throughout the menu with Persian staples like kabobs ($17–$19) and a true highlight: “Sheeshleek.” Ghavami takes pride in this rack of lamb dish ($40) that he (left) Seafood stew of shrimp, sea scallops, mussels, squid and salmon in a white wine and saffron sauce. (right) Rack of lamb (sheeshleek) with dill and lima bean rice, torshi and a vegetable medley. (below) Roasted quail stuffed with apples, walnuts, raisins and onion over a cinnamon gastrique. (below right) One of the well-appointed nooks found throughout the restaurant.

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became known for in his Saffron’s days. Seasoned with lemon and sumac, the meat is grilled kabob-style and served with that addictive, fresh tasting rice called “bagali shevid polo,” that’s made with dill and lima beans. And so now, at Majid’s St. Matthews, Ghavami is putting together the disparate culinary influences he has experienced. Persian dishes that echo his Iranian youth long ago, well-chosen Italian recipes that reflect his first major culinary influence in Louisville, and a thoughtful selection of American dishes combine in an elegant menu. As Ghavami moves into the future, he realizes that there is still one detail he has to get settled: the name of that parrotfish. For that he is asking his patrons for some help. For the next month or so, diners will find an empty goldfish bowl in front of the aquarium. Write down your suggestions for the fish’s name. Majid will choose the best name, and award the namers with a dinner for two. F&D (clockwise from top left) Traditional eggs Benedict is served at Sunday brunch; a baby grand piano is the focal point of the spacious lounge area; mocha walnut pate with raspberries and crème anglaise; a view of one of the many dining areas; the yet-to-be- named parrotfish.

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people and places profiles

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Who were “The” Garys? The men and history behind Gary’s on Spring

Gary’s on Spring is a shiny, two-tier restaurant that sits on an unassuming street corner in Louisville’s Irish Hill. Though the neighborhood is perhaps not known as a culinary mecca, Gary’s has brought some panache to the inter section of Spring and Locust since opening here last Valentine’s Day. When first rolling out plans for this stylish operation with multi-level outdoor seating, owner Guy Sutcliffe says he faced plenty of well meaning non-believers. These more experienced restaurateurs advised that such an undertaking could only work on one of the city’s established restaurant rows — namely Frankfort Avenue or Bardstown Road. But a few months in, this self-taught investor seems to be sitting pretty on Irish Hill, proving so far that Louisvillians will venture off the beaten path for a decent bite to eat. As a noticeable trend of top-notch joints pop up around town in spots not previously associated with fine dining, one can only wonder if Spring Street will become the next upand-coming food district — like the delicious goings-on now occurring on Nulu’s Market Street. We shall see. What is certain is the charming, brick structure that houses Gary’s, with its clean signage and sharp, exterior lighting-design, provides this part of town with a definite upgrade. On the kitchen side of things, Gary’s on Spring reunites Sutcliffe with his boyhood pal, Harold Baker, classmates at the Walden School back in the early 80s. Chef Baker began to gather local buzz after giving the Westport General Store a boost, honing a cuisine there generally described as “Upscale Southern.” At Westpor t, Baker leaned more toward the southern part of that spectrum, with updated, regional classics like Shrimp and Grits, and Baker’s take on the Hot Brown. Though some of the Chef ’s repertoire has traveled with him to Gary’s, an emboldened Baker now seems to be striving toward the upscale end of that “Upscale Southern” equation.

Men of steel We’ve met Guy and Harold. So, who’s Gary? Actually, a more accurate question might be, who are the Garys? Sutcliffe explains that this family name stretches back for several generations, adding that his new eatery is meant as a tribute to those Sutcliffe men who came before him. With a little Googling, one will quickly understand just how deep the “Gary” line runs, not just in local, but American history. One will also find that this is not the first time the name has appeared on a sign in homage to a Sutcliffe. Gary’s on Spring adds to a list of honors bestowed on these men, which already includes a university gymnasium — Sutcliffe Hall at Centre College — and, perhaps most impressive, a whole city. You guessed it: Gary, Indiana! The latter was named for Sutcliffe’s great-great grandfather — Elbert Henry Gary — a founder of U.S. Steel, credited with having forged a famous partnership between some businessmen you may have heard of: J.P. Morgan, Andrew Carnegie and Charles Schwab. 48 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

Guy Sutcliffe

Sutcliffe’s grandfather, Elbert Gary Sutcliffe, is profiled in a fascinating, 1963 Sports Illustrated story as par t of the Louisville Sponsoring Group (they insisted on not being referred to as a “syndicate”) that helped promote and protect the career of Muhammad Ali (then Cassius Clay). Similar to his father’s historical acquaintances, the story lumps Elber t Gary together with some of Louisville’s legendary families. William Lee Lyons Brown of Brown-Forman and Barry Bingham of The Courier-Journal were just two of the influential figures involved in this consortium of actors, CEOs and thoroughbred owners.

New Guy Meeting Sutcliffe, you might not suspect him of coming from such an impressive lineage because, despite carrying himself well, he shows a humble demeanor when introduced for the first time. It’s a trait that was likely passed down to him, if you trust Huston Horn, the writer of that S.I. piece. Horn offers that Elbert Gary introduces himself as a “retired farmer,” who describes his 300-acre estate on the Ohio River as a simple “dirt farm.” We witnessed touches of this same modesty in Sutcliffe when he explained that most

GARY’S ON SPRING 204 S. Spring St. (502) 584-5533 of his successful investments came at a time when, “you could throw a dart at the dot com stocks and come up with a winner.” It’s obvious that this businessman puts more into his ventures than he lets on. When entering this next phase of his professional life, Sutcliffe really took his time pulling Gary’s together. His property hunt began back in ’05. A short time later, he fell for the 125-year-old former grocery store on Spring. A half-decade would pass between that moment and the business’ opening. Part of this long run-up was Sutcliffe’s timing of the markets as well as having to navigate the credit squeeze that followed the ’07–’08 sub-prime mortgage collapse. But, the best example of Sutcliffe’s patience can be seen the moment you walk in the door. The renovations to what was once the Spring Street Meeting House are major and stunning. With help from designer Glenn Hubbuch, Sutcliffe based the layout on Le Colonial: a high end, French-Vietnamese restaurant on Chicago’s Rush Street. The crisp, classy décor displays well with the building’s abundant brick and walnut stained wood. The tucked away lounge upstairs keeps the flow in the dining room open and its din comfortably low. Brickedin, nearly year-round seating on both levels also helps in this regard, bringing the seating capacity here up to 130-plus. This tribute to the Garys looks like the kind of place they might have dined at back in the day. The warm lighting, oldfashioned wooden blinds and black and white photos create a

space reminiscent of an old-school dining room where major players might have met to mull over the career of a young prizefighter on the rise.

Springing forward Were they to dine at their namesake restaurant on Spring Street, the Garys would encounter Chef Baker’s braiding of Old World elegance and New American cuisine, with generous helpings of Southern influence often accented by New Orleans’ flair. For old Europe, look to the Steak au Poivre ($29) or Lamb en Croûte ($26). The fusion of Baker’s Asian Patagonian Salmon ($22) shows off the melting-pot style of New American, while the Oyster Po’ Boy ($10) and Bourbon Street Scallops ($23) are definitively N’awlins. All of this comes with an eye on in-state products, which Baker uses whenever possible. This is a detail his employer and friend is most proud to bring up. “I believe Chef was the first around here to start using local bison,” Sutcliffe tells us. Baker’s history with this protein indeed trails back a few years to his days at Westport General Store, just a short cattle-drive away from the Kentucky Bison Company. Our state’s lean bison can be had at Gary’s in the form of a burger ($11) or Rib-eye ($29). The 12-ounce steak is a specialty of Baker’s and a hit here. It comes dressed in crispy tobacco onions, béarnaise sauce and www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 49

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cream sauce, with sautéed leeks and Brussels sprouts deglazed in white wine and butter. Baker’s ambition to step things up here shows itself again with the pork chop ($19), which is filled with a twist on duxelles — a paste-like stuffing from 17th century France, usually made with mushrooms. The Chef has swapped out ’shrooms for Kalamata olives bringing a spike of saltiness to this competently prepared, bone-in chop. The pork rests on potato pancakes, French Vermouth sauce and a large helping of peas. Perhaps the menu’s nicest surprise — and dish the Garys might have loved best — is the Caviar Impérial ($9). The starter features the roe of Kentucky paddlefish — sturgeon’s closest cousin this side of the Atlantic. It’s presented on a platform of silver dollar buckwheat pancakes and topped with a dollop of green onion crème fraiche. Early critics of the dish complained that the caviar disappeared into its sea of buckwheat. This is no longer the case, although, Sutcliffe confirms those initial reviews may have been right. It was Baker who continued to refine the concept, achieving an adequate balance in his 2.0 edition. The hotcake is now just airy and proportionate enough to allow for a kiss of brine from the mild paddlefish eggs. Baker has hit on something with his caviar creation. For a Chef who tries to push the locavore thing, this appetizer balances its ideals as much as its ingredients and is an example of where “local first” could, and should, be headed. Now that it has taken foothold, the farm-to-table concept has to be (above) Bread pudding with a Bourbon cream and caramel sauce. (opposite — clockwise more than just zero-emission bowls of from top left) Steak Au Poivre — center cut strip streak with a brandy, pink pepper- salad. Outside-the-box ingredients and corn and Dijon reduction; (from left) General Manager Greg Fearing, Owner Guy their thoughtful use are what will susSutcliffe and Chef Harold Baker; Lamb en Croûte — lamb with goat cheese, pine nuts tain the worthy practice that Baker and spinach wrapped in crisp phyllo with a mint pear relish demi-glace; equestrian advocates for. It’s great that we no art is featured in one area of the dining room; Eggplant Napoleon — breaded longer need to look to the Caspian Sea eggplant, tomatoes, provolone and Parmesan chesses served with a basil garlic and its endangered sturgeon population marinara; a view of the upstairs lounge. for caviar. What’s even better is that we can look forward to eating it. The fine-tuning of this starter demi glace, with roasted red potatoes and baby carrots in a golden reflects something Sutcliffe said about the necessity of adjustments in business. Whatever your trade, whether it’s playing raisin thyme butter. Another big seller is the “clipper caught” grouper ($21), which stocks or serving dinner, the market constantly evolves — so too arrives armored in a crunchy, mashed potato crust. The baked, must the businessman. This willingness to bend and amend with golden-brown coating feels a little naughtier than it actually is, the marketplace while weighing the analysis of critics should creating a deep-fried mouth feel. Surely popular with fans of rich, ensure a long and tasty run for Gary’s on Spring. Hey, it worked loaded up plates, the tasty grouper arrives on a bed of Dijon chive for the Garys. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 51

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Alphabetical Index

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. RESTAURANT

Cuisine Style 73 73 75 75 76 76 76 76 71 70 60 62 67 78 78 64 80 81 67 76 76 76 77 77 56 66 78 78 73 78 67 69 63 80 64 57

Area Maps

dining guide

AFRICAN ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/FILIPINO ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/MONGOLIAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CARIBBEAN/CUBAN CASUAL DINING COFFEE/TEA HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN EUROPEAN/SPANISH FINE DINING HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN INDIAN MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL

MAP # DIRECTION PG # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 86 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 hikes point – buechel EAST 88 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 89 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 90 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NEW MAP NA 9 under construction NORTH EAST 91 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 92 12 shively – pleasure ridge SOUTH 93 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 94 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 95 15 clarksville INDIANA 95 16 jeffersonville

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PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

211 Clover Lane 56 Fine Dining 3 60 West Bistro 57 Upscale Casual 3 610 Magnolia 56 Fine Dining 13 8 China Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 6 A Nice Restaurant 64 Casual Dining 14, 16 A Taste of China 73 Asian/Chinese 1 A.J.’s Gyro Café 78 Middle Eastern 14 A.P. Crafters Kitchen & Bar 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Addis Grill 73 African 1 Adobo Mexican Restaurant 78 Mexican 11 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Desserts/Bakery 16 Adrienne’s Italian 77 European/Italian 16 Against The Grain Brewery 73 Microbreweries 1 Ahoy Fish Hut 63 Seafood 4 Al Watan 78 Middle Eastern 4 Alexander’s Pizzeria 67 Pizza 16 Alexzander Taqueria 79 Mexican 13 Alley Cat Café 62 Cafés 5 Amazing Grace Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 Amici 77 European/Italian 13 Anchorage Café 62 Cafés 5 Angelina’s Café 77 European/Italian 5 Angilo’s Pizza 67 Pizza 13 Angio’s Restaurant 67 Pizza 4 Ann’s by the River 67 Cafeterias 16 Annie Cafe 76 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Annie May’s Sweets Café 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Annie’s Pizza 67 Pizza 1, 12 Another Place 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Anselmo’s Italian Bistro 77 European/Italian 2 Applebee’s 64 Casual Dining [6] Arata Japanese Restaurant 75 Asian/Japanese 10 Arni’s Pizza 67 Pizza 14 Aroma Café 62 Cafés 14 Asahi Japanese 75 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 Asian Moon 73 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 Asiatique 57 Upscale Casual 2 Aspen Creek Restaurant 64 Casual Dining 11 Atrium Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 August Moon 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Austin’s 57 Upscale Casual 7 Avalon 57 Upscale Casual 2 BD’s Mongolian Grill 76 Asian/Mongolian 6 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 64 Casual Dining 5 Baby D’s Bagels & Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 Backyard Burger 69 Sandwich/Deli 6 The Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 Bamboo House 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Bank Street Brewhouse 73 Microbreweries 14 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 2 The Bard’s Town 67 Entertainment Dining 2 Basa Modern Vietnamese 57 Upscale Casual 2 Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill 71 Bar & Grill 2 Baxter Station 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 3, 6 Bean Street Café 8o Coffee/Tea House 14 Bearno’s Pizza 67 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 71 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14, 15 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 14 Big Al’s Beeritaville 71 Bar & Grill 2 Big Blue Country 71 Bar & Grill 2 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 1 The Bistro 67 Cafeterias 3 Bistro 42 77 European/Italian 10 Bistro 301 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro Le Relais 61 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Blackstone Grille 57 Upscale Casual 10 Blimpie’s Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 The Blind Pig 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bloom’s Café 62 Cafés 3 BLU Mediterranean Grille 57 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 62 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 64 Casual Dining 13 Blue Lagoon 63 Seafood 2 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 73 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 64 Casual Dining 3 Bombay Grill 78 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 63 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 67 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 67 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 67 Pizza 6 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 67 Pizza 2, 5 Boomer’s Café 62 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 70 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 67 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 76 European/Bosnian 4 Boulevard Café 79 Mexican 15 Bourbons Bistro 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bowman’s BBQ 70 Barbecue 14 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 70 Barbecue 5 Bravo! 58 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 Brian’s Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 64 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 58 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 61 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 71 Bar & Grill 5

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Buca Di Beppo Buck’s Buckhead Mountain Grill Buffalo Wild Wings Buffalo Wings & Rings Bungalow Joe’s Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burning Bush Grille Butcher’s Best Deli Butterfly Garden Café Café 360 Café Envy Café Fraiche Café Lou Lou Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café Palacio Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Calistoga Bakery Café Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carley Rae’s Carmen’s Cupcakes Carolyn’s Carrabba’s Italian Grille Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Caviar Japanese Restaurant Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champion’s Sports Bar Charlestown Pizza Co. Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chez Seneba African Chicago Gyros The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s Cici’s City Café City Girl Farm Café Clarksville Seafood Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza CoCo’s Chocolate Café Coffee Crossing Coffee Pot Café Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Corner Door Bar & Grill Cottage Café Cottage Inn Cozza Osteria Enoteca Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Cubana Restaurant Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Day’s Espresso De La Torre’s Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby City Espresso Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio’s Casapela DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub

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77 European/Italian 6 56 Fine Dining 13 64 Casual Dining 4, 8, 16 71 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 72 Bar & Grill 8 72 Bar & Grill 11 64 Casual Dining 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 13 78 Middle Eastern 10 69 Sandwich/Deli 10 62 Cafés 2, 3 78 Middle Eastern 2 64 Casual Dining 1 62 Cafés 7 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 64 Casual Dining 1 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 62 Cafés 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 76 Asian/Vietnamese 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 81 Desserts/Bakery 1 67 Pizza 5 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 64 Casual Dining 10 64 Casual Dining 13 66 Home Style/Southern 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 8 66 Home Style/Southern 12 77 European/Italian 5 64 Steakhouse 10, 16 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 58 Upscale Casual 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 2 64 Casual Dining 16 72 Bar & Grill 1 67 Pizza 16 66 Home Style/Southern 1 62 Cafés 3 64 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 58 Upscale Casual 3 67 Pizza 16 73 African 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 14 66 Home Style/Southern 1 64 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 73 Asian/Chinese 3 73 Asian/Chinese 15 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 6 73 Asian/Chinese 16 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 12 75 Asian/Japanese 5 73 Asian/Chinese 12 64 Casual Dining 1, 3 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 15 67 Pizza 4, 14 62 Cafés 1, 2 80 Coffee/Tea House 3 63 Seafood 15 67 Pizza 2 72 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 64 Casual Dining 1 67 Pizza 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 77 European/Italian 1, 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13 56 Fine Dining 8 58 Upscale Casual 5 72 Bar & Grill 2 66 Home Style/Southern 5 66 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Italian 16 62 Cafés 2 67 Cafeterias 1 62 Cafés 14 62 Cafés 15 73 Asian/Chinese 1 78 Caribbean/Cuban 11 78 Caribbean/Cuban 2 64 Casual Dining 6 73 Microbreweries 2 64 Casual Dining 1, 10 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 78 Indian 11 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 67 Pizza 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 77 European/Spanish 2 64 Steakhouse 3 62 Cafés 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 67 Entertainment Dining 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 72 Bar & Grill 3 77 European/Italian 2 67 Pizza 3

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Dish On Market 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Ditto’s Grill 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Doc Crow’s 58 Upscale Casual 1 Don Pablos 79 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 69 Sandwich/Deli 7 Double Dragon 73 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 Double Dragon II 73 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12, 13 Double Dragon 8 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Dragon King’s Daughter 75 Asian/Japanese 2 Drake’s 72 Bar & Grill 3 DuValle Grub N Scrub 71 Barbecue 13 Dynasty Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 63 Seafood 12 Earth Friends Café 62 Cafés 14 Eastern House 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Eddie Merlot’s 64 Steakhouse 1 Edesia Gardens 65 Casual Dining 6 Eggroll Machine 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 76 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 79 Mexican 15 El Caporal 79 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mariachi 79 Mexican 5 El Mundo 79 Mexican 2 El Nopal 79 Mexican 3,5,6,7,8,13,14 El Nopalito 79 Mexican 4, 11 El Rodeo Mexican 79 Mexican 12 El Sombrero 79 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 79 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 74 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 56 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Restaurant 76 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 62 Cafés 1, 10 Ernesto’s 79 Mexican 5, 6 Expression Of You 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 The Falafel House 78 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 65 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 67 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 67 Pizza 1, 2, 5 Feed Bag Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 8, 11 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 71 Barbecue 1, 12 Firehouse Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 5 First Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 12 The Fish House 63 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 63 Seafood 3, 5 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 65 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 65 Casual Dining 13 Flanagans Ale House 72 Bar & Grill 2 Fleur de Lis Café 62 Cafés 2 Forty Acres And A Mule 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 72 Bar & Grill 3 Franco’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 71 Barbecue 2, 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 69 Sandwich/Deli 7 Frolio’s Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Frontier Diner 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Fuji Asian Bistro 75 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 75 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Fun Food Café 62 Cafés 2 Funmi Café 73 African 2 Garage Bar 65 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 58 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 76 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 1 Gerstle’s Place 72 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain On Market 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Gigi’s Cupcakes 81 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 66 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Golden Palace 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 65 Casual Dining 8 Granny’s Apron 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Granville Inn 72 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 78 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 72 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Desserts/Bakery 5, 14 Great Life Café 69 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 15 Great Wall 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Room Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 6 Habana Blues Tapas 78 Caribbean/Cuban 8,14 Hall’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 75 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 71 Barbecue 16 Harvest 58 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 78 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5 Hawksview Gallery 58 Upscale Casual 13 Hazelwood Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Heart & Soy 75 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 2,3,4,5,13 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Highland Morning 62 Cafés 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 5 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2011 53

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Hill Street Fish Fry 63 Seafood 13 Hillbilly Tea 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hitching Post Inn 72 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 Holy Grale 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Home Plate Café 62 Cafés 1 Home Run Burgers & Fries 65 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen 81 Desserts [9] Hometown Buffet 66 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 68 Pizza 5, 7 Honey Creme Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Honeybaked Café 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 Hong Kong Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 13 Hooters 65 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 Hot Diggity Dogs 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 Howl at the Moon 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Hunan Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 11 I Luv Sushi & Teriyaki 75 Asian/Japanese 2 Ichiban Samurai 75 Asian/Japanese 6 IHOP 65 Casual Dining 6, 15 Improv Comedy Club 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Incredible Dave’s 67 Entertainment Dining 8 Indi’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 InFusion Foods USA 78 Indian 6 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 58 Upscale Casual 1 The International Mall 77 European/Italian 1 The Irish Exit 76 European/Irish 14 The Irish Rover 77 European/Irish 2, 7 Iroquois Pizza 68 Pizza 13 J. Alexander’s 59 Upscale Casual 3 J. Graham’s Café 62 Cafés 1 J. Gumbo’s 78 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6,13 J. Harrods 59 Upscale Casual 10 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 56 Fine Dining 14 Jack Fry’s 59 Upscale Casual 2 Jack’s Lounge 61 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Jackson’s Seafood 63 Seafood 14 Jade Palace 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Jamie’s 14K Cupcakes 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 4 Jasmine 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Jason’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Java Brewing Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 2,5, 10 Jazzyblu 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 1 Jersey Mike’s Subs 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Jersey’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 15 Jessie’s Family Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Jimbo’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 13 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 70 Sandwich/Deli [9] Joe Davola’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Joe Huber Restaurant 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Joe’s Crab Shack 63 Seafood 1 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 78 Cajun/Creole 6 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 65 Casual Dining 5 John E’s 59 Upscale Casual 4 John O’Bryan’s Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 12 Johnny Brusco’s Pizza 68 Pizza 8 Johnny V’s 68 Pizza 6 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Barbecue 5 Jumbo Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Kahuna Nui Burgers & Fries 65 Casual Dining 12 Kailana Sushi 75 Asian/Japanese 11 Kansai Japanese Rest. 75 Asian/Japanese 15 Karem’s 65 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 78 Indian 2 Kayrouz Café 62 Cafés 3 Kern’s Korner 65 Casual Dining 2 King Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 3 Kingfish 63 Seafood 6, 7, 16 King’s Fried Chicken 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Kobe Japanese Steak 75 Asian/Japanese 16 Koreana II 76 Asian/Korean 13 KT’s 59 Upscale Casual 2 Kum’s Kafe 66 Home Style/Southern 13 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 La Bamba 79 Mexican 2 La Bocca 77 European/Italian 14 La Bodega 77 European/Spanish 2 La Colombiana 77 European/Spanish 8 La Esquina Caliente 78 Caribbean/Cuban 13 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 77 European/Italian 2 La Hacienda Guadalajara 79 Mexican 13 La Monarca 79 Mexican 11 La Que 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 La Rosita Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 1, 14 La Rosita Taqueria 79 Mexican 5, 13, 15 La Tapatia 79 Mexican 2, 13 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 14 Las Gorditas 80 Mexican 11 Lee’s Korean 76 Asian/Korean 13 Legend’s 65 Casual Dining 14 Lemongrass Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Lenny’s Sub Shop 70 Sandwich/Deli 4 Liang’s Café 74 Asian/Chinese 8 The Lighthouse 72 Bar & Grill 16 Lil’ Loafers Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 Lilly’s 56 Fine Dining 2 Limestone 56 Fine Dining 5 Ling Ling 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 Little Chef 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 Little India Café 78 Indian 4 Liu’s Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Logan’s Roadhouse 64 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 80 Mexican 13 Longhorn Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 54 Winter 2011 www.foodanddine.com

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Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Los Aztecas 80 Mexican 1, 5, 10 Los Mezcales 80 Mexican 13 Lotsa Pasta 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Louis Le Francais 61 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Pizza 6 Luigi’s 68 Pizza 1 Lunch Today 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 Lynn’s Paradise Café 65 Casual Dining 2 Ma Zerellas 68 Pizza 15 Maa Sha Allah 73 African 4 Magic Fingers 75 Asian/Japanese 1 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 76 Asian/Thai 16 Maido Essential Japanese 75 Asian/Japanese 2 Main Eatery 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main St. Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 1 Majid’s St. Matthews 61 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 59 Upscale Casual 1 Manhattan Grill 65 Casual Dining 1 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Barbecue 2, 5, 12, 14 Martini Italian Bistro 77 European/Italian 8 Masa Japanese 75 Asian/Japanese 5 Mayan Café 80 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli [9] The Melting Pot 59 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 62 Cafés 3 Mexican Fiesta 80 Mexican 4 Mexico Tipico 80 Mexican 5, 12 Mexico Viejo 80 Mexican 2 Michele’s On Goss 59 Upscale Casual 13 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 75 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike Linnig’s 63 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 14 Mimi’s Café 65 Casual Dining 5 Ming’s Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 66 Home Style/Southern 1, 2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 63 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 77 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 77 European/Irish 2, 3 The Monkey Wrench 65 Casual Dining 2 Morris Deli & Catering 70 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Morton’s of Chicago 64 Steakhouse 1 Mozz Mozzarella Bar 56 Fine Dining 1 Mr. Gattis 68 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mr. Pollo 65 Casual Dining 4 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 65 Casual Dining 2 My Favorite Muffin 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 67 Entertainment Dining 13 My Patria 80 Mexican 5 The NA Exchange 61 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Naked Pizza 68 Pizza 3 NamNam Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 59 Upscale Casual 5 Neighborhood Café 62 Cafés 3 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 65 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 68 Pizza 14 New China 74 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 8 Nord’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 59 Cafés 2 NuLu East Market Lounge 59 Upscale Casual 1 O’Charley’s 65 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 66 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 77 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 56 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Japanese Restaurant 75 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 75 Asian/Japanese 2, 4 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 68 Pizza 6, 8 Old Louisville Coffee House 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Old Spaghetti Factory 77 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 59 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 Barbecue 11 The Olive Garden 77 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 74 Asian/Chinese 14 Orders Up Café & Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 5 Oriental House 74 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 68 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 65 Casual Dining 1 Our Best Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Outback Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 13, 15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 60 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 77 European/Spanish 2 Panda Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 10 Panera Bread Co. 70 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 68 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 68 Pizza 2, 13 Passtime Fish House 63 Seafood 6 Pat’s Steak House 64 Steakhouse 2 Patrick O’Shea’s 77 European/Irish 1 Patticakes & Pies Café 62 Cafés 14 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Paula Deen Buffet 65 Casual Dining 14 Peking City Bistro 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 70 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 65 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 68 Pizza 6 Perkfection 80 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 77 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 78 Middle Eastern 4

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Pho Binh Minh 76 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 5, 6 Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 80 Mexican 12 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 78 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 78 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 78 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza King 68 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 68 Pizza 4 Please & Thank You 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 77 European/Italian 2 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Preston St. Fish & Chicken 65 Casual Dining 13 Proof On Main 60 Upscale Casual 1 Pub Louisville 65 Casual Dining 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 68 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 80 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Mexican [12] Queen of Sheba 73 African 4 Queenie’s Soul Cuisine 66 Home Style/Southern 4 Queue Café 62 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 81 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Quizno’s Subs 70 Sandwich/Deli [10] Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Casual Dining 3, 8 Ramsi’s Café 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hog Tapas 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 81 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 65 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 77 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 71 Barbecue 1 River City Winery 62 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Riverside Café 62 Cafés 16 Rivue 56 Fine Dining 1 Rocky’s Sub Pub 68 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 77 European/Italian 5 Roosters 65 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 72 Bar & Grill 8 Roots 75 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosticeria Luna 80 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 11, 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 71 Barbecue 13 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Mexican 15 Ruby Tuesday 65 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Casual Dining 1 Rumball’s Family Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 8, 12 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 63 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 11 Saffron’s 78 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 76 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 72 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 75 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 75 Asian/Japanese 3 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 68 Pizza 5 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe Grill 80 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 75 Asian/Filipino 2 Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake 76 Asian/Japanese 3 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 71 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 70 Sandwich/Deli 8 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 78 Cajun/Creole 5 Senor Iguana’s 80 Mexican 5, 6, 13, 15 Sergio’s World Beers 72 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 71 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 76 Asian/Chinese 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 78 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 71 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Sharom’s 63 Seafood 11 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 European/Irish 2, 4 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 76 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 65 Casual Dining 2,5,13 Sichuan Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 68 Pizza 1 The Silver Dollar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Splendid Salads 66 Casual Dining 5 Simply Thai 76 Asian/Thai 3 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 68 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 81 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 78 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 66 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Slammer’s Sports Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 Smashburger 66 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 71 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 71 Barbecue 1 Smokey’s Bean 81 Coffee/Tea House 13 Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Barbecue 6 Snappy Tomato 68 Pizza 8 Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 1, 2 Sonoma Coffee Café 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 Soupy’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 4 Spaghetti Shop 77 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8 Sporting News Grill 72 Bar & Grill 13

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The Sports & Social Club 72 Bar & Grill 1 Spring St. Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 2 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee/Tea House [35] Starving Artist Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining4,6,8,13,12,15 Stevens & Stevens Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 77 European/Italian 7 Stevie B’s Burgers & More 66 Casual Dining 15 Stoney River 64 Steakhouse 8 Stop Lite Café 62 Cafés 1 Straight Out Da Kitchen 78 Caribbean/Cuban 13 Stricker’s Café 62 Cafés 16 Studio Pizza 68 Pizza 15 Stumler Restaurant 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 70 Sandwich/Deli 13 Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 11 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sweet Stuff Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sweet Surrender 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 Sweets & Such Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 12 Sweet-Tee’s 67 Home Style/Southern 13 T Bone’z 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 11 Taco Tico 80 Mexican 12, 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 13 Taj Palace 78 Indian 8 TanThai Restaurant 76 Asian/Thai 14 Tazza Mia 81 Coffee/Tea House 6 TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 74 Asian/Chinese 8 Texas Roadhouse 64 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 Texicans BBQ Pit 71 Barbecue 7 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 76 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 76 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 13 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 72 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 62 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 62 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 62 Cafés 13 Theater Square Marketplace 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Third Avenue Café 63 Cafés 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 70 Sandwich/Deli 13 Tiffany Cellar Café 63 Cafés 5 Tilted Kilt 66 Casual Dining 3 Toast On Market 66 Casual Dining 1, 14 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Tomo 76 Asian/Japanese 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Trailside Café 81 Coffee/Tea House 5 Trellis Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Troll Pub Under The Bridge 72 Bar & Grill 1 True Thai 76 Asian/Thai 11 Tucker’s 66 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4,6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 77 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint69 Pizza 2 Uptown Café 60 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 60 Upscale Casual 2 Verbana Café 63 Cafés 8 Vic’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 14 Vicario’s 77 European/Italian 14 Vietnam Kitchen 76 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Village Anchor Pub & Roost 62 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Vincenzo’s 56 Fine Dining 1 Vint Coffee 81 Coffee/Tea House 1,2,3,7 Vito’s Pizza 69 Pizza 13 Volare 77 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Wall Street Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 76 Asian/Japanese 2 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 66 Casual Dining 10 Whitney’s Diner 63 Cafés 4 Wick’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 Wild Eggs 63 Cafés 3, 5 Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion 76 Asian/Japanese 2 William’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 15 Wiltshire On Market 60 Upscale Casual 1 Windy City Pizzeria 69 Pizza 13 The Wing Zone 66 Casual Dining 13 Winston’s 57 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 63 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 60 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 63 Cafés 1, 13 Yang Kee Noodle 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Yellow Cactus 80 Mexican 14 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 6 Za’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2 Zanzabar 73 Bar & Grill 13 Zaxby’s 66 Casual Dining 16 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2 Zen Garden 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zeppelin Café 63 Cafés 13 ZiaLaLa Café 63 Cafés 5 Zivio 63 Cafés 1 Zoe’s Kitchen 78 Middle Eastern 1, 8 Z’s Fusion 57 Fine Dining 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 57 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

f = OUTDOOR DINING ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS e = LIVE MUSIC

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln. 896-9570. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. Ownermanager Andrew Smith and long time Chef Troy Schuster have burnished the upscale atmosphere and creative menu, moving 211 Clover Lane to a destination dining spot. $$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ p f ✿

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BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for more than two decades. The quality of food and service remains high, and Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ p f e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ p ✿ JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ p h LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant

dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ p ✿ MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. Matthew Antonovich and Michael Cooper, alumni of Casa Grasanti’s, have energized their corner space on the edge of NuLu. Choose your dining locale:the fresh mozzarella bar, the upscale enoteca section emphasizing “rustic earth-to-table eating,” or the trendy NuLu East Market Lounge. $$$ p e h ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) and his chef de cuisine Bobby Benjamin continue to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA five-diamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 5684239. The sleek black and white moderne decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Brian Riddle’s menu, with a local emphasis and upscale flourishes, adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes. Lamas has recently been getting national notice in Esquire and on TV’s “Extreme Chef,” and with the renovation and expansion of the restaurant now complete, he is setting a new standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ p f h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at

RED = ADVERTISER

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tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S FUSION 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Consummate restaurateur Mehrzad Sharbaiani (Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse) spent $2 million to remake this 10,500 square foot space into a cool, sophisticated oasis. The menu’s ingenious and delicious take on fusion cooking and the excellent service make this an exceptional dining experience at surprisingly reasonable prices. $$$$ p ✿

The

Perfect Location for Every Occasion

Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich environs outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$ p f e ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to panAsian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿

Anniversary or Birthday Dinners Sunday Brunch Wine Tastings Business Dinners

For reservations, call (502) 807-DINE (3463) 500 Fourth Street, Louisville, KY 40202

.TOL. 3:06:21 PM

AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. With an upscale value dining menu, Avalon continues its tenure as one of the classy joints along the Bardstown Road corridor. We always try to sit on the three-season patio, one of the best in the city. $$$ p f ✿ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ p BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Prospect, KY, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿ THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. (See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.) BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿

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BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ p h EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ p ✿ GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Harold Baker, formerly chef at Westport General Store, is at the helm of this new Irish Hill upscale casual spot. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison burgers, oyster po’ boy sandwiches, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant napoleon. $$$ p f h ✿ HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world focuses on locally sourced foods (Chodkowski and Chef Coby Ming are shooting for 80% from within 100 mile radius), which limits the fish selection, but increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ p f h ✿ HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$$ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant restaurant space in Actor’s 58 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

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Theatre of Louisvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e â&#x153;ż J. ALEXANDERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features â&#x20AC;&#x153;contemporary Americanâ&#x20AC;? fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f â&#x153;ż J. HARRODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p â&#x153;ż JACK FRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the remnant of a 1930s saloon â&#x20AC;&#x201D; is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ p e h â&#x153;ż

JOHN Eâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Owner John Shanchuck caters to the horseracing crowd. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ p e â&#x153;ż

an extraordinary casual fine-dining experience with foods from local farms delivered at their peak of freshness and prepared and served at the summit of delicious.

KTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to argue with success, and KTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fair. $$ p f h â&#x153;ż MAKERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentuckyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Makerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h â&#x153;ż

""" ! !

# ! #

MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p â&#x153;ż MICHELEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5909. A large, airy space in an old industrial building turned antique mall serves up lunch to mall browsers, and dinner and weekend brunches as well. $ f â&#x153;ż NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish quarters of this popular East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s become one of the anchors of trendy Westport Village center. $$$ p f h â&#x153;ż NORTH END CAFĂ&#x2030; 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. Known for their hearty and interesting breakfast choices, The North End also satisfies diners at lunch and dinner. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrĂŠes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an appealing, affordable place to dine $$$ f h â&#x153;ż NULU EAST MARKET LOUNGE 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. The popular E. Market Street restaurant Mozz expands its space in the Cobalt Ventures building with this new supper club environment. The lounge features a piano bar and octagonal â&#x20AC;&#x153;culinary theatreâ&#x20AC;? complete with mozzarella-making stations, a gelato freezer and a Champagne and caviar bar. Late Night at NuLu will transform the space into a retro discotheque complete with disco ball and light show. $$$ p e h â&#x153;ż OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu

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of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ p f e ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360. Seasoned executive chef Michael Paley’s everchanging creative menu continues to make Proof a destination dining spot, the culinary equal of the quirky 21c Museum Hotel which has garnered national notice. Mediterranean in focus, with a commitment to using local products as much as possible, the adventurous dishes (grilled octopus, bison burgers, beef marrow, sea salt caramel gelato) are made with the freshest ingredients. $$$ p ✿ UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she continues here with her finely crafted small plates menu that changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sat. only. Reservations suggested. $$ f ✿ YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

A.P. CRAFTERS KITCHEN & BAR 1321 Herr Ln., 690-5000. Tony Palombino stretches beyond his gourmet pizza with this new venture in Westport Village. The decor echoes the place’s name, with floor to ceiling shelving stocked with vintage cookware, distillery and brewer’s supplies. The menu concept is Euro gastropub, with upscale comfort food, craft beers and “Prohibition-style” cocktails. $$ p f h ✿ ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿

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BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Bill Lynch and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ p f e ✿ THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. A popular hangout since its opening, this Euro-style gastropub features French country cooking and house-made sausages and charcuterie in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late-19th century building in Butchertown. $$ p e h ✿ BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, featuring the works of French-trained chef Michael Crouch. No, it’s a great bar, with what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Actually, this Crescent Hill favorite is both, and the bill of fare is wellmatched with the excellence of its libations. Don’t miss the duck confit strudel appetizer. $$$ p f ✿ BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ h e

HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. The owners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted a former church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twenty taps offer a rotating choice of international brews, and an eclectic menu offers Belgian fritjes, pretzels and beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ h ✿

LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-1222.The New Albany dining renaissance gains a French bistro to extend the range of international dining options. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau will serve prix-fixe dinners typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$

JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿

MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s has a track record of making flailing restaurants successful. His newest venture, in a St. Matthews space that has been problematic for others, offers a Mediterranean-American menu. The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ p f e ✿

JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ p e h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with more than 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable atmosphere and excellent bistro fare with a creative twist add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿

THE NA EXCHANGE 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN. 948-6501. In the kitchen of the new gastropub is Dave Clancy, who spearheaded the revival of downtown New Albany dining with the Bistro New Albany a few years back. His American bistro style food will be available from lunch to late night. Notable on the menu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (house-made chips with bison chili topping) and skirt steak. $$ p f h

CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. A second location in the Douglass Loop is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ p ✿ DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissom has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $p✿ DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ p h ✿ GHYSLAIN ON MARKET 725 E. Market St., 690-8645. In a carriage house behind the building that houses the corporate offices of Creation Gardens, a French bistro, run by French Canadian chocolatiers who are expanding their Indiana patisseries into restaurants and Kentucky. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Two veterans of the upscale kitchens along Bardstown Road have taken over the old Swan Dive space, and patrons of the previous vegan haunt are quickly becoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispy mushroom medley and veggie tacos join interesting oddities like duck sliders and bacon plantain croquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes, and a reasonable beer selection. $ h ✿ HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Street Live, 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿ HILLBILLY TEA 120 S. First St., 587-7350. This eccentric breakfast, lunch, dinner and tearoom space has expanded into the second floor, still offering wellprepared nouveau country cuisine, an exotic selection of teas, and killer pastries and desserts. $ ✿

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RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban. Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ f e h ✿ RED HOG TAPAS 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. By day, it’s the Blue Dog Bakery and Café, but on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights it takes on its new identity as a tapas bar, featuring, among other dishes, the cured pork products that coowner Bobby Hancock creates from his own red wattle hogs. A nice beer wine and spirits selection, to go with the fish flautas, catfish brandade and charcuterie. $$ p h ✿ RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 945-9463. Several of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2009 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and well-crafted appetizer style menu have been drawing appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ e ✿ THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., The old firehouse in Clifton is slated to become a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) will be focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The food will be southern country-style with sophisticated nuances. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons and ryes, and tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch, or vodka. $$ p f h ✿ THEATER SQUARE MARKET PLACE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Dallas McGarity, formerly of Z’s Fusion, has taken over the reins in the kitchen of this elegant transformation of the old Kentucky Theater. Up front is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. McGarity’s new menu includes crawfish arancini, a BLT salad, salmon croquettes, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops. $$ p f h ✿ VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ p f h ✿

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ ✿ THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. This coffee bar and café in Anchorage offers Counter Culture coffees and a small but eclectic menu of sandwiches, paninis and salads. Serving breakfast and lunch, with daily specials. $ f ✿ AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ h ✿ BLOOM’S CAFÉ 307 Wallace Ave., 896-8008. After a brief interruption this summer, this long-time St. Matthews ladies’ lunch spot is open again for sitdown business (it was carry-out only for a few months). The renovated space is a bit smaller, but the home-style cooking is as fresh and satisfying as ever. $ ✿ BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Still a popular breakfast and lunch 62 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

spot as well as an artisanal bakery, producing hearty European-style breads that can be found on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. But on Thursday through Saturdays nights, owners Kit Garrett and Bobby Hancock have started tapas service, many small plates featuring pork cured by Hancock from his own heritage pigs (see the blurb at Red Hog Tapas). $$ p f ✿ BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this breakfast and lunch spot offers standard American café fare, and serves breakfast on Saturdays. $ BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1474. Both locations of this long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old-house on Bardstown Road and inside Dolfinger’s in St Matthews, offer interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $ f ✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishops Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $$ f ✿ CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿ CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿ CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿ CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg, IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿ EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany, IN, 725-9393. Vegetarians and vegans can find a lot to love here in the sandwich, salad and soup sections of the menu, but they will have to co-exist with carnivores. The menu insists, though, that “all meats [are] produced from humanely raised, grass-fed animals and are produced without added hormones.” $ ✿

ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Fourth St., 587-9390, 455 S. Fourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-7210. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FLEUR DE LIS CAFÉ 1574 Bardstown Rd., 456-6566. Kyle and Jill Riggle have transformed the old Sweet ‘n’ Savory Café location into a neighborhood destination for hearty breakfasts, lunches with vegetarian and vegan options and reasonably priced, eclectic dinners. $$ p ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ h ✿ HOME PLATE CAFÉ 400 E. Main St., 618-4205. The former Blue Mountain Coffee House site on the corner of Main and Preston, across from Slugger Field, is serving up salad, soups and sandwiches. $✿ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ f p KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ f ✿ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ NEIGHBORHOOD CAFÉ 119 St. Matthews Ave., 893-4434. A St. Matthews soup and sandwich haven with a twist. Serving everything on the menu but the soups in a house-made waffle cone — really. Settle down morning or afternoon with a latte or cappuccino (not available in a cone). $ ✿ PATTICAKES & PIES CAFÉ 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8510. In downtown New Albany, this little storefront café serves breakfast and lunch, makes hearty paninis and salads, and bakes up cakes, pies, muffins for takeout. $ ✿ QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿ RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ f STOP LITE CAFÉ 1348 River Rd., 584-3746. $ STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9883. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Now well-settled in its new location just off East Broadway, The Café serves an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. And the new space retains the old place’s yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere. $ f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. $f✿ THE LUNCH PAIL 502 E. Warnock St., 634-7116. Offering yet another quick and comforting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features

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warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year-round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿

The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. With a menu featuring many vegetarian and vegan options, this pleasant neighborhood eatery attracts loyal crowds with excellent fare and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e ✿

EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ f

TIFFANY CELLAR CAFÉ 11601 Main, 245-4411. $ f ✿ VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 426-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ f ✿ WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Breckenridge Ln., 454-5955. For many years a Fern Creek landmark before a short move west, Whitney’s remains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. We recommend the “Grandpa style roast beef.” $ ✿ WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing minichain’s third outlet. $ p ✿ WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ f YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222, 1489 S. Fourth St. $ f h ✿ ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿ ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803. The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian backgrounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latin cafe with a European flair.” The eclectic menu includes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crust pizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, panini and empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican and Jamaican flavors. $ ✿

THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿ HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ p f

KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 2674633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ f e RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p

ZIVIO 711 S. Third St., 561-3007. The owners of the ambitious little Highlands Italian eatery Le Gallo Rosso have expanding their reach downtown, but with a different concept. The name, among other possible translations, is Italian dialect for “Good Health and Prosperity,” an agreeable wish for anyone who joins them for lunch. The emphasis is on an eclectic range of soups and sandwiches. $ ✿

AHOY FISH HUT 2902 Bardstown Rd., 451-5508. An upper Highlands outlet that has been delighting the neighborhood with fish tacos, fried and broiled cod, and homemade buttermilk pie. All dishes cooked to order — nothing hangs around under heat lamps. $ f ✿ BLUE LAGOON 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The Sharom family, who operate Zaytun Mediterranean Grill and Sharom’s on the Outer Loop, has a new seafood place, on the site of the old Diamante’s. Hopes are high for an aquatic take on their falafel and hummus staples. $$ f h ✿ BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition.

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CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ p h DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ p EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$ p h JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The downtown setting doesn’t hurt either, on Waterfront Plaza at Main and Fourth, next to the Galt House. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h

CAFÉ ENVY 570 S. Fourth St., 569-0508. During the day, it’s a lunchspot in the center of busy 4th Street, serving up sandwiches, fried shrimp and catfish, ribs and salads. At night, it’s a lounge with a dance floor, catering to the “mature adult crowd” between the ages of 30 and 45. Entertainment provided by DJs and live acts, overseen by the owners of JazzyBlu in Glassworks. $$ p f e ✿ CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p ✿

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 2809160, Jeffersonville, IN, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $

CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h

APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿

LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ p

B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p

BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ p h ✿

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Be sure to bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f

BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearing tight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typical bar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encourage patrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winning corporate concept, don’t you think? $$ p h

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BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ h

TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy. 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p

ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ p h ✿

PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿

fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. New delivery and catering operations extends the brand beyond the three locations. $$ p f h ✿

BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ f ✿

BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American

CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿ CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ p ✿ CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ ✿ COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. Hurricane Katrina blew chef Richard Lowe into town, bringing from New Orleans his Cajun/ Creole/Caribbean magic to Coach Lamp’s kitchen. The restored 137-year-old building has a classic bar on one side and an upscale white-tablecloth dining room on the other side. $$$ f ✿ CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR f = OUTDOOR DINING

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nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f EDESIA GARDENS 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 2637100. Named after the Roman goddess of gourmet foods, this banquet and events space also offers a Sunday brunch buffet to the public. Special brunches also served on holidays such as Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, Easter, Mother’s Day. $$ ✿ FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102, 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 962-9999. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little near-West End place (that has just opened a second location) is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany, IN, 944-9958, 4320 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-7370, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshlygrilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’ roll sensibility. $ h FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 290-7273. Since 1952, serving up rolled oysters, German comfort food and fried chicken to Germantown residents and fans from far and wide. Where else can you find limburger and braunsweiger with onions on rye and Warsteiner on draft? $ p GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. The much anticipated new venture from Michael Paley of Proof, housed in a former service station in NuLu, will serve up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. $$$ p f h ✿ GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its longstanding reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ p f e h

KAHUNA NUI BURGERS & FRIES 14216 Dixie Hwy., 937-3722. $ p KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $ p f KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447. A serious restaurant hides behind the funky décor and madcap events (like the annual New Year’s Eve pajama party and the Ugly Lamp contest). The Bourbon Ball French toast beat Bobby Flay on a Throwdown. And everyone loves the fried green tomato BLT. The World of Swirl store in the front has been described as “Cracker Barrel on acid.” $$ p ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its reputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $pfeh✿ MR. POLLO 3606 Klondike Ln., 618-2280. On a visit to Peru, the Cuban owners learned how to make pollo a la brasa, a brined, spiced and long-roasted Andean specialty. So they’ve brought a South American cuisine new to town, where you can buy quarter, half or whole chickens that are served with a spicy-creamy aji sauce and sides of fries and salad or Cuban black beans and rice. $ MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoe-shaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ p f h

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. The familiar IHOP franchise across the river has now been joined by another outlet along the franchise restaurant row on Hurstbourne. $ h ✿

NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg, IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always freshly made. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ p ✿

JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h

O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h

e = LIVE MUSIC h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif is based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there’s a shop attached, where you can purchase aprons, cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$$$ h ✿ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$ p h ✿ PRESTON STREET FISH & CHICKEN 1272 S. Preston St., 636-1310. Don’t you love restaurant names that tell it all? Here, catty-corner from the Billy Hertz Gallery on South Preston, you will find a corner location selling fried chicken and fish. Wings are the thing, and you can get them in quantity if you want. Also, breaded and fried whitefish and jack salmon. $ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Street Live 569-7782. Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ p f h ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 590-3391. This Columbusbased wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first three Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for over 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners. You’ll now find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants

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have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SIMPLY SPLENDID SALADS 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3373. Another pleasant spot for lunch or take-home dinner for shoppers and workers along the Shelbyville Road-Hurstbourne Parkway nexus. Choose from an interesting selection of huge salad bowls (Asian shrimp, tuna Nicosia, chicken Caesar) or piled-high crepe wraps (Philly cheese steak, vegetarian, Hawaiian chicken, chicken and Brie) for eat-in or take-away. $$ ✿ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ h ✿ SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 3112 S. Fourth St. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky location serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ f STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿ STEVIE B’S BURGERS & MORE 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN 288-8365. Located near WalMart and I-65. Stevie B’s lures hungry shoppers to dress their own burgers at the toppings bar. Or, fuel up on Philly cheesesteaks, cheese chicken sandwiches, or a quarter-pound chili dog. $ TGI FRIDAY’S Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿ TILTED KILT 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 409-8458. A franchise restaurant, notable for its skimpily plaidclad servers as much as its pub-style food. The aggressively cute menu offers “big-arse” burgers, various sandwiches, salads and wraps, entrées ranging from lasagna to “Longshanks” sausage platter to “Fat Bastard’s” meatloaf sandwich. Pizza and a short beer list are also available. $$ p h TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth, opened a second outlet across the river, and will be moving out of the funky, cavernous old theater building to the former Artemisia a few doors west before the end of the year. $ p f ✿ TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café fare in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿

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WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy. 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. It may be in the country, and you may feel far from the big city, until the food comes. Along with the requisite meat loaf and pork chops, you’ll find such ambitious fare as chicken buccatini and blackened scallops. $$ e ✿

FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Jay’s Cafeteria lives on in Shively. Jay’s former owners are now serving up Southern Soul food at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h

FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿

ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 9200080. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville has its own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ f h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿ CARLY RAE’S 103 W. Oak St., 749-6665. The Old Louisville corner place with the great fenced-in patio has reopened with the same name, but new owners, with a focus on soul food. CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $

GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville, IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8980. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. Country cooking is Jessie’s specialty, with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both the Butchertown and new downtown location. $$ NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410. This fine little home-style family restaurant has pulled back to this one location after an effort to expand didn’t work out. $$ QUEENIE’S SOUL CUISINE 2956 Richland Ave., 451-4698. Queenie has been cooking for her 13 siblings since she was a teenager. Finally she is getting paid to do it. She and her son serve breakfast, lunch and dinner: chicken and waffles, meatloaf, a soul burrito, chicken (fried, smothered or baked) and daily specials. $$ f

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SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack—salt and pepper. $ SWEET-TEE’S 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 966-0075. A modest little soul-food emporium, brimming with the aromas of Southern ambrosia: collard greens cooked with fatback, sweet potato pie, crusty ribs and slow-cooked pig’s feet. The chicken is fried while you wait, the way the customers like it. $ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $✿ THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This little spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ ✿

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. There is food and beverage service, but it is not a dinner theater. $$ h p e h ✿

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e

Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphouse-style menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ h ✿

HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h

BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿

IMPROV COMEDY CLUB & WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Fourth St., 581-1332. The menu is no joke at this downtown club. Chow down on well-grilled steaks, fresh seafood and ribs that rank with the best in the city before the nationally-known comedy acts start. $$$ p f e h ✿

BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ p f h ✿

INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿ JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ p ✿ STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, roast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿ ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $ p ✿ BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ f ✿ BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of

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BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $ h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ h ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 944-4942, 3093 Breckinridge Ln., 452-6700. Serious bargain-hunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat. This Dallas-based chain serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $ f e h ✿ COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ p f h ✿ DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $ DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424. The former Karem’s Deli location in St. Matthews finally has a new tenant, serving pizza by the slice, as well as a mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers, including some BBC brews. $$ p f h ✿ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿ FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040, 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-0840, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $ ✿ www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 201 1 67

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FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿ HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Square Shopping Center, 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 7498400. The Kansas City chain has opened its first location in Kentucky, on the site of the former Big Ben Café in Norton Commons, offering New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ h ✿ JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ p f LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿ LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-5005, 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594

Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 3398338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austinbased chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿

PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿

NAKED PIZZA 139 Breckenridge Ln., 410-2211. The New Orleans carry-out and delivery chain backed by billionaire Mark Cuban has staked out the Louisville area for expansion. Its selling point in a saturated market is “healthy” pizza, made with unprocessed ingredients, a crust blended from “ancestral” whole grains, and probiotics for digestive health. The menu also offers a gluten-free crust and all-natural soy cheese. $$ h ✿

PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515, 337 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1505. After satisfying Highlands customers with his crispy-crust New York-style pizzas — specializing in premium, made in-house toppings — former restaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenberg has opened a second store, near U of L. The college trade can share his 18-inch pies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, or make a meal from the calzones, breadsticks and short list of salads and desserts. $ f h ✿

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 1061 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has opened a handsome new site near the new arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$ p f h ✿

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (12 Locations) $$ ✿

PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Avenue. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ ✿ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appelaton, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana, and some hoppy draft as you contemplate the Louisville skyline. Or call in for delivery to Jeffersonville, Clarksville or Louisville. $ p f ✿ SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ p f ✿ SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 631 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 469 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded into St. Matthews, and now downtown too. All four locations are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f h ✿ STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville, IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Preston Hwy., 634-5400. Friendly service and sizzling pies make this neighborhood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿

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UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. Finally the attractive space at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead is luring some commercial occupants. The first restaurant in there is a pizza concept from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ h ✿ VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ p h ✿ WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿ WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desires. $$ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ p ✿

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carrots, bean sprouts, seeds and roots, think again. No animals were harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿

CALISTOGA ARTISAN SANDWICHES 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3779. “Papa” John Schnatter, founder of the worldwide pizza chain that bears his name, is taking another shot at the fast-food world with the more upscale Calistoga Artisan Sandwiches that some have likened to Panera Bread. $ f ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿ CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. Gyros, of course, and substantial ones, traditional beef and lamb, chicken, BBQ chicken and even vegetarian. But Philly steak sandwiches too, and catfish sandwiches, Chicago style hot dogs and burgers. Chicken wings, hummus, Greek salads as well. And, they deliver. $ f e ✿ DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿ DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 583-3828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels

with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿ EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ f ✿ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿ FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. Another national chain joins the party on S. Hurstbourne, this one touting the fact that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ ✿ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ ✿ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany, IN, 941-9426. $ HOT DIGGITY DOG 960 Baxter Ave., 384-3162. What would the Baxter Ave. Highlands corridor be

BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This new Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. Open for breakfast and lunch every day and late-night Thursday-Saturday. $ h BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned handdipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ail Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h BUTCHER’S BEST MEATS & DELI 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ f CAFÉ PALACIO 4010 Dupont Circle, 708-1818. Serving lunch to workers in Dupont area five days a week. $ ✿

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without a lunchtime and late night walk-up dog window? Hot Diggity Dog offers steamed dogs, Polish sausage, nachos and Blue Bell cream during lunch and again throughout evening. $ f h

hot hot ice the

JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 5870550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany, IN. 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884, 341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ f h ✿ JOE DAVOLA’S 901 Barret Ave., 690-5377. Near the government center in the lower Highlands, this popular sandwich shop features healthful choices for lunch. $ ✿ LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 4547831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semifast food. $ f ✿ LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-7567. Every city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs, and burgers, in a joint that seems like a throwback to the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ ✿ LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit prepares its share of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 9693328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla 70 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 587-2353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Orders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dropping in to someone’s home for lunch. Soups salads and freshly made sandwiches are uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿ PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ ✿ PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 540-1100. Downtown lunch goers have a new sandwich choice in this Chicago-based chain that is now franchising. The Fourth and Jefferson St. location is run by two escapees from the financial services world who depended on Chicago Potbelly sandwiches to get them through grueling trading sessions. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (10 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” has thoroughly refurbished the former Picnicaters into a spotless “hot-daug stand” offering gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Take away, or sit at one of the nine stools lining the little building and watch the passing parade. $ f ✿ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich —

“The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿ SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store will evoke the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ ✿ SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ ✿ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 581-9200. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BOWMAN’S BBQ 8271 State Rd. 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Carry out and catering only. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 426-6666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $

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DUVALLE GRUB-N-SCRUB 3501 Cane Run Rd., 7721277. Pull into this Shively carwash and get some Boss Hog’s BBQ while the boys detail your wheels. Ribs and rib tips, chicken wings, hamburgers, pulled pork and chicken, milk shakes, and soft serve cones. $ FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that FireFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223, 1202 Bardstown Rd., 384- 8077. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. Now with a second venue on Bardstown Road (next to the Wine Market). $ p

HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the premises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 285-1998. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smoky Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e h SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p

SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. House specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. A new smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this TexMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the Smoketown neighborhood. Ribs are juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 241-9227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. The latest addition to the Baxter corridor, open after a long renovation, offers bar food, luring both rockers and good ol’ boys with a combination of rock and country and western in its music plan. $ p f h BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 285-9464, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 9668515. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ h BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e BIG BLUE COUNTRY 426 Baxter Ave., 585-2583. A sports bar catering to UK fandom (and also the “official” home for Indianapolis Colts followers). There’s a pizza buffet, a selection of flavored breadsticks (including dessert sticks), the typical snack fare of wings, nachos, calamari and so forth. Also salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ p f BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p f BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 899-7732, 9134

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Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464. $ p f h BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing. A game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ p f e h CHAMPIONS SPORTS RESTAURANT 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h

GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h

MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Longstanding blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ p e h MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeno burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ p f h RUMBALL’S FAMILY SPORTS BAR 5901 Terry Rd., 365-2781, 10000 Hwy. 22, 327-5496. A familycentered sports bar, with a welcome focus on scratch cooking (the chicken strips are cut in-house from actual chicken breasts) with a “Little League Menu” to appeal to the small fry. Along with wraps and salads, the regulars like the deep-fried burger. $$ p f h

CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ h

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿

CORNER DOOR BAR & GRILL 2222 Dundee Rd., 708-2885. This Douglass Loop spot features craft brews on tap, a tasteful selection of wine, and reasonably priced food, including the signature Zip Burger and ribbon fries. The Facebook page also boasts “the best-looking bartenders and wait staff in the Highlands.” $ p f h

SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ h ✿

DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿

SLAMMER’S SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2800 Crums Ln., 618-3588. A kid-friendly sports bar, with 20 large flat screens and one huge (110-inch) one. Expect a reasonably-priced pub menu (ribs, burgers, sandwiches) and plenty of opportunity to drink beer while catching any game you want. $ p f e h

DONEGAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 938 Baxter Ave., 562-1234. Another bar and grill has been added to the Revelers’ Row along Baxter in the Highlands, with 42 craft and import beers on tap, and a full service lunch and dinner menu ready to be phased in. $ p f e h

THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramont Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ p f h ✿

DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327. Lexingtonbased Bluegrass Hospitality Group has re-done the old Burdorf’s building for the second outlet (first of two planned in Louisville) of the casual pub concept. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Family-friendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ p h FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a Wichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiard tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿ GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e h ✿ 72 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ p h ✿ HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f h ✿ JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e h ✿ JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿

SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ p h SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Bridge a large troll beckons the adventurous into the newest addition to the Whiskey Row eating and drinking scene. Excavated out of the

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lost space in the old whiskey warehouse, the renovation boasts lots of dark, brink-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ p f h ✿ VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 9444338. $ ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ p f e h ✿

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. The old Browning’s space at Slugger Field has been redesigned, as has the whole beer-pub concept. New owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, plan an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ p f ✿ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany, IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has sharpened into Belgian-style bistro cuisine. Mussels and frites will always be available, and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ p f ✿ BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 5620007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Now serving at a third restaurant site near the new arena. $ p f e ✿

from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ ✿ CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ ✿ CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ ✿

ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿

CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿

ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ ✿

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿

AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ p f ✿ BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿

CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-5580. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ ✿

CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this little downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ h ✿ CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ FUNMI’S CAFÉ 1043 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Adventurous ethnic eaters have taken to the modern Nigerian food at this little Highlands café. You can get stewed goat here, served with yam flour, or roasted cassava. Try the dodo (fried plantains) or suya (beef kabobs in a peanut-spice rub). $$ h ✿ MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case

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DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buffet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿ DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868. The continuing proliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to report that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ p h ✿

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿ GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ ✿ HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ ✿ HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿ HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿ HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿

EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ p ✿

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿

EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿

JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with a selection of more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿

FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿

JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿

GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿

KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center

fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿ MING’S BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893-0822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ ✿ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ h ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ ✿ TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ f ✿ WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ ✿ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿

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YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY WOK 1801 Priority Way., 266-5801. $ h ✿

ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-caneat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. $$ ✿

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $

ARATA JAPANESE 9207 US Hwy. 42. The sushi restaurant trend moves outward to the suburbs. This new Prospect addition provides sit down and carry-out Japanese food. $ ✿ ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿ BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ ✿ DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at this popular café at the corner of Bardstown Road and Elmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ p f ✿

KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9538. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿

MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ p f h ✿ OASIS JAPANESE RESTAURANT 3311 Preston Hwy., 375-8766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya sushi restaurant have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ h ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829, 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has opened a second location in the Upper Highlands. $$ ✿

KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿

OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite has opened a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ ✿

MAGIC FINGERS 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Magic Fingers is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $

ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates.

MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Toki, the original owner of Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant, is back at the helm, serving elegant Japanese cooking in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ h ✿

SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ p h ✿ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿

FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$ p ✿ FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glasswalled tofu-making room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ I LUV SUSHI & TERIYAKI 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 893-8226. Eclectic, bargain-priced Asian food in a Clifton spot that has seen a lot of turnover. Early reports give high marks to the sushi as well as the noodle dishes and Korean-inspired fare such as the bulgogi teriyaki. $$ ✿

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SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ p h ✿ SATO’S ZEN SUSHI & SAKE 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 608-1866. The menu of this new Japanese restaurant boasts “Zen salads,” soups, sushi, green tea, red bean and tempura ice cream, and a variety of flavored sakes.$$ ✿ SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿ TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops.$$ p ✿ WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions. Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ h ✿ WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long—this sushi and Asian fusion spot has been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu.Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad Thai and curries). $$ p h ✿

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ p ✿ SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿ 76 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. Together, they’ve made this St. Matthews spot one of the most popular Asian restaurants in town. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $ f ✿ TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ ✿ THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 493-4073. This location has been known for good Thai restaurants, and the short history of Thai Orchids shows that they have picked up the mantle, providing Jeffersontown-area lovers of southeast Asian cuisine with excellent noodles and curries. $$ ✿ THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿ TRUE THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. A bright, attractive little place (just 4 tables) run by a former employee of Thai-Siam, one of Louisville’s longest running Thai restaurants. 30 standard Thai dishes (pad thai, curries, fried rice) priced under $10. $ ✿

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ p h ✿ CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $ f h ✿ LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿ NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the bahn mih and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ f ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ ✿ SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd,. Vietnamese cuisine joins the choices for residents, with this newest addition to the dining array at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne (where Masterson’s used to be). $$ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes.$ f ✿

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 944-1929. The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to

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the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ p h IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ p f ✿ MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿ O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ p f e h ✿ PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This newest downtown creation of the Flanagan’s/ O’Shea’s pub mini-empire has beautifully refurbished one of the old warehouses just east of the new stadium, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ p f e h ✿ RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ p f e h ✿ SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919, 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. Now with a second location out in Buechel. $pfeh✿

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ f ✿ AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ p f ✿ ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr., 326-5555. $ ✿ ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. This Italian bistro quickly took over the spot vacated by Istanbul Café, and offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ p h ✿ BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ h ✿

BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ COZZA OSTERIA ENOTECA 214 Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4406. Italian fusion cuisine is what owner Al Papsodero is offering in the pleasant space that once housed Timothy’s. That’s the kind of Italian cooking done in Brooklyn, Al’s hometown. Sample dishes: chicken Modena, salmon piccatta, fennel-roasted organic pork loin, rigatoni pomodoro. $$ f p h ✿ DIFABIO’S CASAPELA 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccatta, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ f ✿ THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ ✿ LA BOCCA 132 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 7259495. This addition to the dining explosion in New Albany serves Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$

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LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. The successful formula of this Ohiobased chain features hearty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas served up in a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ p f h ✿ MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. (See review under Fine Dining.) OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿

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PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ p ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VICARIO’S 7773 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg, IN, 246-1000. $$ p VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) $$$$ p e h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ p f ✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿ LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179. Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndonarea restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish. Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ p ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojitos quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ p f ✿

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BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4258892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿ DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿ INFUSION FOODS USA 815 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 413-5211. Indian fusion cuisine? Why not. Try savory puffs or rice and curry with chilli chicken, wraps with chilli paneer or tandoori chicken, or subs or even pizza. Wash it all down with a mango lassi. It’s little more than a lunch counter, out by the Southeast Christian Church complex, but it is gathering lunch fans galore. $ ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 4793353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentilbattered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabi-style (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿ TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ ✿

A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. A recent name change now reflects what this Southern Indiana eatery has always done well, serving up authentic Greek gyros and side dishes. Open April through October only. $ f ✿ AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ BURNING BUSH GRILLE & MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ f ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ 78 Winter 201 1 www.foodanddine.com

THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ f ✿ MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. The owners of Little Jerusalem lost their lease on Taylor Blvd., and found a new location in a former pizza joint out on Preston, which continues to grow its own international restaurant row. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $ f ✿ PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and felafel. $$ ✿ PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ ✿ PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ h ✿ SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Although Majid Ghavami has sold his interest in his downtown Persian restaurant, he sold it to Reza and Mimi Dabbagh, (she also co-owns August Moon), who are keeping on most of the staff and continuing with the popular menu: rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ p ✿ SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ ✿ ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands Middle Eastern eatery—excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $h✿ ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has two Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ ✿

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096, Fourth Street Live, 5899245, 3115 S. Second St., 363-8888, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ p f h

CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona.$ ✿ CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 409-4828. The long-vacant space once occupied by Danielle’s now offers another outlet for Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnic offerings in town. Usimg local, seasonal food sources, the menu offers weekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/Central American food traditions. $ p ✿ HABANA BLUES CUBAN TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9760, 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-4434. Habana Blues’ success in New Albany has encouraged it to branch out with a new location in Louisville’s East End as well. The extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ p ✿ HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $ p f ✿ LA ESQUINA CALIENTE 5318 S. Third St., 384-7414. It means “the hot corner,” perhaps a reference to the ovens — it’s part bakery, part restaurant. The ambiance is hearty working person’s Cuban chow — Cuban sandwiches (on their house-made bread), beans and rice, pork. Look at the “cantina” plan — pay ahead for weeks’ worth of reduced price lunches. $ STRAIGHT OUT DA KITCHEN 1610 Dixie Hwy., 409-6565. Soul food with a Jamaican accent at this little take out place just west of Old Louisville. $$

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican with this eatery taking over the space vacated by Our

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Best restaurant. The guacamole bar offers a huge portion in a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch on while sipping a margarita special. $$ p ✿ ALEXZANDER TAQUERIA 8206 National Turnpike, 384-2530. Open til 2:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday to satisfy your late-night taco cravings. $ ✿ BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907-C S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ f ✿ BOULEVARD CAFÉ 1015 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 725-8884. Breakfast, lunch and dinner is served at this little Mexican-American place on the main drag through Clarksville. Tacos, burritos and so on. Plus pasta, steaks sandwiches and crepes. $ ✿ DON PABLO’S 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, offers full bar service and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿ EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿ EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Early fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ p ✿ EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers

creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿ EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249. This modest little eatery used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family from Mexico, it’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL RODEO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ p EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ p ✿ EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272, 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿

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ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ p f e ✿ FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ p ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ h ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 336 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 252 E. Market St., 589-5220. Starting as a little walk-in space, the popularity of La Rosita’s traditional Mexican food led to a move to a huge, former department store space near the action in the New Albany downtown renaissance. Continued consumer satisfaction has resulted in opening a second outlet on the edge of NuLu. $ f LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. For those who crave tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These authentic little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 961-9153, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in

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Louisville, this little storefront has opened a second location, both offering memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p ✿

satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿

LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿

SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565. These four Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿

LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p ✿ LOS MEZCALES 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-3466. A “family Mexican restaurant” on a strip with plenty of such to choose from. Serving huevos ranchero, burritos, chicken a la plancha and camarones a la diabla. $ ✿ MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance in the E. Market St. Nulu district. opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, before NuLu was fashionable. For the second year his Market Mondays promote locally-raised pastured meats. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880. $ ✿ MY PATRIA 808 Lyndon Ln., 339-9420. $ ✿ PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ p ✿ PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Curch Rd., 239-4646. $$ p ✿ QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (12 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ✿ ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ ✿ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to

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SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St,. 583-5505. Saul Garcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems to have a knack for finding hot locations to serve his satisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museum row before the museums were, took over the former Raw space on the southern edge of the hot Fourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiest location on Whiskey Row, a handsome renovation with a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and a broader Mexican menu. $ p h ✿ TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888, 7416 Preston Hwy., 969-0644. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ ✿ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿ YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs, IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana Tex-Mex restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ p h ✿

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Center, 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ p f h MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ p f ✿ T BONE’Z 6501 Bardstown Rd., 231-6501. The former Buffalo Rings & Wings concept has been ditched; the same owner has turned to a Tex-Mex menu concept, though wings are still available. $ p f h TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (15 locations). Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern fare adds steaks and grilled fare to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in droves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ e h ✿ CITY GIRL FARM CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 3843280. This Middletown coffeehouse and café promises locally roasted coffee and fresh bakery and lunch items made from locally-sourced ingredients. $ f COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282. $ f ✿ DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’s roster of serious coffee shops, Derby City features quality coffee from several artisanal roasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers. $ f e ✿ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ f e ✿ GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Bardstown Rd., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9388, 3060 Bardstown Rd., 458-7770, 1301 Herr Ln., 425-9199, 822 Eastern Pkwy., 637-1060. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot.Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561 U.S. Hwy. 42, 2922710, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0053. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e

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PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St., No phone. Another addition to the burgeoning choices in NuLu district, this little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $ ✿ QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 137 E. Market St., New Albany, IN. This local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces has opened two new locations, in the new U of L.student housing, and in the midst of the NuLu action. $ RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ ✿ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f ✿ SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this new coffee house and sandwich shop gives more choice to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah till 2 a.m. $ f SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTERY 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ ✿ TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., 491-4830. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VINT COFFEE 462 S. 4th St., 561-2041, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, 4901 Brownsboro Rd., 425-3688, 3600 Dutchmans Ln., 459-0660. Five Java Brewing Co. locations have assumed a new identity as VINT (although three other locations will remain under the Java name). The rebranding of the these spots reflects their assertion that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” Re-furbished interiors invite you in for morning coffee, afternoon tea or an evening of libations. $ e

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. $ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿

BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿ CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f ✿ CARMEN’S CUPCAKES 10616 Meeting St., 3655242, 1401 Bardstown Rd., 459-4239. Take away or eat in with coffee or tea, or let the kids decorate their own cupcakes at the sprinkle bar. Made with organic and all-natural ingredients, of course — this little bakery is in Norton Commons. $ CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940, 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House) 5884097. Erika Chavez-Graziano has added a downtown outlet, along with her confectionary operation to the artsy Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ f THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter), and is in the throes of expansion, into the historic building on Frankfort next to the old Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at the old Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ h THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ ✿ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ ✿ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573, 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4422. $ ✿

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany, IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ JAMIE’S 14K CUPCAKES 938 Baxter Ave., 3651440. The cupcake shop has been a suburban mall phenomenon until now. Jamie’s offers Highlands residents many varieties of this currently trendy nosh, including cake pops and vegan and gluten free choices. $ LIL’ LOAFERS BAKERY 8522 Preston Hwy., 9693990. For years, hairdresser Sheryl Lukenbill used to bake banana breads and other treats as gifts for her customers. Her goodies were so popular that now Sheryl and her husband Paul have gone fulltime with Lil’ Loafers Bakery. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880. The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany, IN, 948-2507. $ ✿ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 8992008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ f SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery. Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 284-2867. $

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-6000. $

e = LIVE MUSIC h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

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MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 93 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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Shake it. Or stir.

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