Winter 2007-08 (Vol. 19)

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WINTER 2008

the fish sandwich

heaven on bread

libations hearty beers turkish coffee and more

plus

900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

Recipes

one-pot meals|bristol’s celebrated starters $ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

www.foodanddine.com

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WINTER 2008 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES PAUL NAJJAR CONTRIBUTING CHEFS GLEN BELL ALBERT W.A. SCHMID CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING AMANDA SMITH IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine ® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

___________________________________

Annual Subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddine.com

For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER The D.B. Fish Sandwich at Browning’s is fried in Helles lager beer batter and served on brioche, dressed with jumbo lump crab salad, red cabbage, chervil and remoulade.

(Feature story, page 40) 6

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Photo by Dan Dry

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contents

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WINTER 2008

FEATURES Profiles: Three beer-friendly eateries

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Writer Michael L. Jones introduces us to three popular local spots known for their food and their exceptional attention to beer.

The Fish Sandwich — Fried heaven on bread Louisvillians hold the simple fish sandwich in high esteem, a curious fixation for an inland city.

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COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS Every quarter we report on restaurant openings, closings, moves and other news on the local dining scene.

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SIDE DISHES News of note in Louisville’s culinary world.

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HUMOR I WANT MY FOOD NETWORK! Tired of Food Network’s Rachael Ray shrieking “Yum-O”?

Jay Forman offers some great new ideas for cooking shows.

TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: Dining out in the Windy City Chicago may be known as the Second City, but it rivals New York’s No. 1 status as a great weekend destination.

LIQUIDS HIP HOPS: Hearty beers

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If Alpine St. Bernards had carried beer in their little kegs, says Roger A. Baylor, these warming potions would have done the trick.

COFFEE: Turkish coffee Turkish coffee is simple to prepare, but the resulting elixir is most rewarding. David Lange tells how to brew it.

SPIRITS: Bowled over with punch Mixologist Jerry Slater considers the delicious possibilities and communal spirit of the punch bowl.

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CORK 101: Wine with fish

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Wine expert Robin Garr offers up our handy-dandy diner’s guide to wine with fish.

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RECIPES RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Bristol’s celebrated starters

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The Bristol’s green chile won tons, artichoke fritters and black bean soup have stood the test of time. Here’s how to make them at home.

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TOP CHEF RECIPES: One-pot meals

Dinner in a pot is hearty comfort fare that touches our gastronomic roots. Sullivan University chefs show us how.

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE

Our updated, comprehensive listing of more than 900 area restaurants, with reviews.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

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DESIGN / BUILD “From concept to reality.”

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news and notes

comings

& goings

Winter, as is typically the case, was a relatively quiet period on the Louisville restaurant scene, particularly following the excitement that had attended the opening of three major new destinations — Corbett’s ‘an American place,’ Seviche A Latin Bistro and Varanese — during the previous quarter.

Still, there was good news for local restaurant-industry trend watchers this quarter in that new restaurant openings more than doubled the number of closings. Nearly two dozen restaurants opened for business, while a bare dozen closed their doors.

• • • •

Concept & Design Construction & Equipment Restaurant Real Estate & Brokerage

AVAILABLE PROPERTIES FOR SALE OR LEASE: Big Dave’s Outpost 1801 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY $1,375,000

Mom’s Music 2920 Frankfort Ave. Louisville, KY $499,000

Appleby’s Cafe & Wine Bar Wings To Go 201-207 Spring St. 4324 Charlestown Rd. Jeffersonville, IN New Albany, IN $740,000 $175,000 1811 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY $399,000

Sedona Grill 5223 Detroit Rd. Sheffield Village, OH $2,200,000

Joe’s OK Bayou 9874 Linn Station Rd. Louisville, KY $155,000

Tumbleweed 3780 West Broad St. Columbus, OH $599,000

Stricker’s Cafe 2781 Jefferson Ctr. Way Jeffersonville, IN $45,000

Rumors Grill & Bar 3110 Maple Leaf Dr. Lexington, KY $1,525,000

Joe’s OK Bayou 4308 Charlestown Rd. New Albany, IN $125,000

Kobe Steak House 1637 Midland Trail US 60 Shelbyville, KY $975,000

Ruben’s Mexican Grill & Bar 1370 Veterans Parkway Clarksville, IN $215,000

Houston D. Jones, Jr. 13121 Eastpoint Park Blvd.

Eastpoint Office Park, Suite 7G Louisville, KY 40243 502.419.7799 • 502.228.4908 Fax www.thehoustongroup.net Contact Houston for a confidential review of your needs.

houston@thehoustongroup.net 8

Winter 2008

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OPENINGS A hotbed of new-restaurant activity is colorful Westport Village, a total renovation and upgrade of the somewhat tattered old Camelot Shopping Center at Westport Road and Herr Lane. Four new eateries have joined an already growing crowd there: Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub & Restaurant, 1321 Herr Lane, brings a family-friendly American-style sports bar to the scene, with a galaxy of nearly four dozen flat-screen TVs. Popular sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his following from Shogun to Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar, 1115 Herr Lane, and Macca’s Florida Seafood Grill & Bar joins in with upscale casual fresh seafood and fish.

Also in the East End, Incredible Dave’s is building a mammoth family-entertainment center and notewor thy fine dining to a former Kroger at 9236 Westport Road; and Turkey Joe’s will restore wings, burgers and other casual fare and libations to the former Wings N Things, 2809 North Hurstbourne Parkway.

Two new ethnic restaurants have enjoyed early critical acclaim: Red Pepper Chinese Cuisine, 2901 Brownsboro Road, gains from the hand of a noted Sichuan chef from Chicago’s Chinatown who has served in Chinese embassies around the world. Lexington’s Kashmir Indian comes to Louisville as Royal India, 4123 Oechsli Avenue, the only local spot currently offering both traditional Northern Indian and spicy vegetarian Southern Indian cuisine.

Other recent ethnic arrivals include Sitar, a new outpost of a Nashville-based Indian chain, at 1702 Bardstown Road; and La Perla de Pacifica, 4906 Preston Highway, an authentic Mexican seafood house bearing no apparent connection to the Goose Creek eatery with the same name.

Kentucky BBQ Co., 1800 Frankfor t Avenue, is actually the third incarnation of Bourbon Bros., now bearing a new name in the Clifton quarters that Café Lou Lou vacated in its move to St. Matthews last year.

Oak Street Pizza, 125 East Oak Street, is a tiny storefront offering takeout only, but you couldn’t tell that from the significant buzz surrounding its arrival. A friendly neighborhood presence, hand-tossed NYCstyle pizza and a wide, wide delivery range are making Oak Street a household term among local foodies.

Also bringing along a hefty reputation is Our Best Restaurant, 5404 Antle Drive off Preston Highway, the first urban entry in a would-be chain based on a long-time down-home favorite from rural Smithfield, Kentucky.

Other recent arrivals, listed alphabetically, include Big Al’s Beeritaville, 1715 Mellwood Avenue; Chrisanta’s Café, 1812 Brownsboro Road; The Lunch Pail, 502 East Warnock Street; Dublin’s Cellar, 942 Baxter Avenue (ex-Wet Willy’s); Ice Breakers, 252 East Market Street (formerly Oscar Brown’s, La Rouge and Bobby J’s), Ray’s Monkey House & Kid Café, 1578 Bardstown Road, and the Wolfgang Puck

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Express national fast-food chain in the Kentucky International Convention Center, 221 South Fourth Street.

Over in Southern Indiana, recent arrivals include The Menu on the River, 100 Riverside Drive in Jeffersonville; Orchid Asian Café, 400 West Main Street in New Albany; Cuba Libre, a fine Cuban restaurant at 702 Highlander Point in Floyds Knobs; and, happily resurrected under new owners, the renovated South Side Inn cafeteria, in New Albany at 114 East Main Street.

Adding a new location to an existing local chain, Bristol Bar & Grille opens its first Southern Indiana proper ty in Jeffersonville at 700 West Riverside Drive.

CLOSINGS The seemingly haunted property at the corner of First and Oak streets in Old Louisville claimed another victim as Carly Rae’s joined predecessors Chef ’s Table and Leander’s on the road to oblivion.

Jarfi’s Bistro ended a five-year run in the Kentucky Center for the Arts, but its owner Jeff Jarfi is said to be looking at new restaurant locations in the Highlands or Hurstbourne.

Tologono, which had sought a niche in upscale, fine-dining meals made to order by phone or online and serve at home, failed to reboot, ending a six-year run in St. Matthews.

Ballyhoo Baja Grill has served its last fish taco on Bardstown Road, giving way to the new Sitar Indian; and Jimmy’s on the River in Jeffersonville closed, to be quickly replaced by The Menu on the River, whose proprietors in turn closed their Main Menu in New Albany to move to the new place. Got that?

Additional closings of the quar ter included It’s A Grind Coffee House on Hurstbourne Parkway, Olive’s downtown on Fourth Street, China City Buffet in the East End on Westpor t Road, and in Southern Indiana, Treets Bakery & Café in downtown New Albany.

Finally, only one chain closed a specific property: Shoney’s on South Hurstbourne Parkway.

We regret any omissions, but invite the restaurant community to keep us informed. Send information by Email to

info@foodanddine.com.

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Daniel F. Boyle 1959 – 2007

Vice President,

Food & Dining Magazine Publisher’s Letter A little more than five years ago, on a snowy December day, I made the decision to start Food & Dining magazine. About a month later I called my long-time friend Danny and asked if he would come work for me and help launch the publication. From that day Danny was at my side, day in and day out, along every step of the magazine’s journey.

Until last November 1.

It was an unremarkable day at first. I remember Danny telling me a funny story about his oldest son, Jordan, as he was leaving work. We were both still laughing as he walked out the door, and I could still hear his distinctively loud laugh as he made his way to his car. I didn’t know it would be the last time I had the pleasure of my dear friend’s company.

It is with the greatest of sorrow that I tell you about this, for that day was, and will remain, one of the saddest days of my life. Daniel F. Boyle, my best friend for as long as I can remember and my right-hand-man at Food & Dining magazine, died suddenly of heart failure that night.

He left behind his loving and devoted wife, Sara, and two small boys: Jordan, 12, and Matthew, 7.

I cannot begin to tell you what Danny meant to me in my life, but I can tell you that he touched so many more lives than mine.

Most every restaurant owner and chef, hotel manager and purveyor who had contact with our humble magazine knew him in some way. Many counted him as a friend, and most all thought of him as he was, a kind, generous and loving man.

He was passionate about the Louisville’s restaurant scene and a better ambassador for Food & Dining than I could ever have expected.

From the moment that the news of his passing was known, sympathies came pouring in. We have all been touched by the kind words and wonderful stories that so many of you have shared with us about Danny. Many of you told about how he always made time to talk about your lives and your families and how he genuinely cared about what you said. A young lady in the local restaurant business told us about how Danny once dropped off homemade soup to her when she was ill, telling her that the soup always made his wife feel better.That’s just how he was.

Danny was also very giving and involved in his community. For many years he was a volunteer baseball and basketball coach for Jeffersontown youth sports, touching hundreds of young lives.

Danny loved his wife, Sara, his boys Matthew and Jordan, his family, friends and his community. And we loved him back.We will miss you, Danny but we will never forget you.

John Carlos White – Publisher Danny’s passing was sudden and devastating. He and his family were in no way prepared for such a tragic event.We urge all his friends and associates to consider, in lieu of flowers, making memorial gifts in his memory, on his family’s behalf, to the Daniel Boyle Memorial Fund, c/o any Stock Yards Bank. Food & Dining is hosting a benefit for Daniel’s family. See the insert on the next page for details.

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news and notes

side AWARDS AND HONORS

Chef Peng Looi

Peng Looi earns national honor Chef Peng Looi, of Asiatique and August Moon, has won the 2008 Jefferson Evans Award, presented annually by the Black Culinarian Alliance to honor individuals “of color” who have shown excellence in the food-service industry. Peng Looi was born in Malaysia.

The award is named after Chef Jefferson Evans, the first black graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in 1947.

“This award symbolizes the importance of discipline, consistency, and upholding the highest standards in culinary arts,” the Alliance wrote. He’ll go to New York City to receive the honor in a black-tie gala on March 8.

Four top restaurants earn high AAA ratings When the automobile was new, autorelated companies like Michelin, Mobil and the Automobile Association of America started publishing restaurant reviews in the interest of getting families out on the highway and using their products. To this day, 10 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

dishes

ambitious eateries strive for high ratings, knowing that a four- or five-diamond listing will bring travelers to the door.

The Seelbach’s Oakroom received the only five-diamond award in Kentucky, Indiana or Ohio, a rating that places it on a level with such culinary shrines as French Laundry in Napa Valley, Aureole, Daniel and Jean-Georges in New York City, and the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia.

Three Louisville restaurants earned AAA’s four-diamond rating: The Brown Hotel’s English Grill, Vincenzo’s and Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse.

In hotel ratings, the Seelbach, Brown and Louisville Marriott Downtown earned four diamonds.

Corbett and team to Beard House Word travels fast: Chef Dean Corbett’s new Corbett’s ‘an American place’ had been open only a few weeks when the amiable chef and proprietor of Corbett’s, Equus and Jack’s Lounge garnered an invitation for him and his staff to show their stuff at New York’s James Beard House.

Corbett and Chefs Kevin Rice, Josh Hillyard and Chris Howerton will head for

the Big Apple for a “Taste of Louisville” presentation at Beard House on Monday, March 31.

Admission (not counting your flight and hotel accommodations, of course), isn’t that far out of line with a dinner at Corbett’s, which is pricey and worth it: The Beard House dinner is $125 for members of the nonprofit James Beard Foundation, $155 for the public. For reservations and information call Beard House, (212) 627-2308.

KRA honors Napa River’s J.D. Rothberg J.D. Rothberg, an owner of Louisville’s Napa River Grill and Wild Eggs, was named Restaurateur of the Year at the Kentucky Restaurant Association’s Restaurateurs’ annual Gala.

“It’s really nice to be recognized by your peers,” Rothberg said. “To be recognized by the people who know what you do and who understand the trials and tribulations that go along with it just makes it more exciting to get. It takes a team to be successful, and there’s nobody more important to me than my team and my managers.”

Corbett’s team (clockwise from left) Chef ’s Dean Corbett, Ray Ramirez, Kevin Rice, Nick Sullivan and Chris Howerton

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Napa River Grill’s J. D. Rothberg

Finalists for the Award were Bruce Drake and Brian McCarthy of Lexington’s Bluegrass Hospitality Group; Rod Rupp of Ferd Grisanti’s and Andrew Masterson of Masterson’s and Captain’s Quarters in Louisville; and Butch Wainscott at Greyhound Tavern and Mike Wong at Oriental Wok, both in For t Mitchell.

Other award winners from the Louisville area included: Steve O’s Italian Kitchen, and Vincenzo’s, Restaurant Neighbor Award; Mary Richie, Jefferson Club, Employee of the Year; Mary Ellen White, Kingfish Restaurants, Manager of the Year; Michelle Bollman, Republic Distributing Co., Supplier of the Year; and Bruce Cotton, Past President, KRA, Lifetime Achievement Award.

EVENTS Sushi in the City Louisville’s top sushi chefs will sharpen their knives for serious competition, and your taste buds will be the winner at Sushi in the City, Tuesday, March 4 from 5:30-9 p.m. at The Henry Clay, 3rd and Chestnut Streets downtown. Participants will taste and vote for their favorites to select the Best Sushi in the City for 2008.There will also be desserts, a silent auction and entertainment. Admission is $60 a person, with a $10 discount for members of young professionals’ organizations. Proceeds will benefit Louisville’s Project Women, a nonprofit agency that provides housing and educational assistance to help homeless single mothers and their families break the cycle of poverty. For information visit the Project Women Website, www.projectwomen.org. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008

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Dine with the Oscars It’s black tie and formal wear on Oscar Night, Feb. 24, as the red carpet rolls out for the ninth annual Oscar Night America Gala on Sunday, Feb. 24, from 6-10 p.m. at The Olmstead.

The gala, for the benefit of Family & Children First, is said to be the city’s “only officially sanctioned Oscar event,” with official Oscars programs distributed while revelers watch the live broadcast from Hollywood over dinner.

Family & Children First is a non-profit organization that provides behavioral, social and advocacy services to help families find solutions through counseling and education. Each year, the agency serves more than 3,000 families through four neighborhood centers, outreach programs and crisis treatment center.

Tickets are $200, of which a portion is tax deductible. For more information visit www.familyandchildrenfirst.org or call (502) 893-3900.

Chocolate Dreams — A chocoholic’s fantasy All the decadent chocolate desserts you can eat and support a worthy local cause as well? We don’t see any down side to this! “Chocolate Dreams — An Evening of Decadent Bliss” is scheduled for Monday, Feb. 25, from 6-9 p.m., in the Triple Crown Room at Churchill Downs.

Guests will sample chocolate creations prepared by local culinary professionals, who will compete for awards in several categories. Along with the chocolate, the benefit will feature wine, light hors d’oeuvres and a silent auction.

Tickets are $45 a person, $75 a couple, and proceeds will benefit GuardiaCare Services, a Louisville nonprofit agency that ser ves area seniors at financial and physical risk. Visit www.chocolatedreams.org for information or call (502) 585-9949 for reservations.

Girl Scout Cookie Desserts at The Melting Pot The Melting Pot restaurant will feature three special dessert fondues made from Girl Scout cookies during March, with a portion of the proceeds from sales of these specialties going to benefit the Girl Scouts of Kentuckiana.

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a dipping plate that includes fruits, cheesecake, brownies and Trefoils.

You can learn more details online at www.meltingpot.com or call (502) 4913125 for reservations. Open daily, The Melting Pot is at 2045 S. Hurstbourne Parkway.

RESTAURANT UPDATES, RENOVATIONS & MORE Jack Fry’s Jack Fry’s general manager Stephanie J. Meeks has purchased the popular restaurant at 1007 Bardstown Road from its former owner, Susan Seiler, who continues to own the building that houses the historic Highlands tavern but will pursue a career outside the restaurant business. No major changes are planned, although Meeks expects to revise the lunch and dessert menus. Meanwhile, JR Schiavi moves from Asiatique to take over as Jack Fry’s bar manager.

Jack Fry’s Susan Seiler

new look to BLU in March as Adams repositions the restaurant as a destination dining room for local consumers as well as hotel guests, “upscale but approachable, comfortable for everyone.”

Nios at 917 Restaurateur Jun Eugenio briefly closed his Nios at 917 “to restructure and refocus,” then reopened before the holidays with a new chef, Josh Tuley, who comes to Nio’s from North End Café; and new Front House Manager Michael Beckmann, formerly manager at Bearno’s Highland.The new concept, Beckmann said, features creating your own main course from an eclectic selection of small plates meant to be shared.

J. Graham’s Café J. Graham’s Café, the Brown Hotel’s casual breakfast-and-lunch alternative to the posh English Grill and currently the place to go if you want to sample the historic Louisville Hot Brown in its original setting, has reopened with a renovated “American bistro” décor and a new chef, Eduardo Bocci, brought in from Italy.

RockWall Bistro After a few months at The RockWall in Floyds Knobs, Chef Alex Bomba has eliminated its old Cajun accent in favor of an “upscale American” menu influenced by his travels in France and Italy. Bomba’s dishes feature local meats and produce, including salted and cured meats like pastrami, sausage and Italian-style pancetta that he makes in house, and aged beef from a nearby butcher. For a signature Bomba dish, try his simple but intensely flavored pan-seared, oven-roasted sea bass with slow-roasted tomatoes and a lemoncaper sauce.

S U B S C R I B E TO FOOD & DINING BLU Mediterranean Grille New managers have moved in at BLU Mediterranean Grille in the Louisville Marriott Downtown. BLU recently announced the arrival of Chef Brian Hove, a 17-year Marriott veteran who comes to Louisville from the chain’s Griffin Gate Resort in Lexington. Also new is General Manager April Adams, who boasts extensive front-of-the-house experience at local restaurants including a stint at Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse. There will be a

Can’t wait to see what’s in the next issue of Food & Dining? Why not subscribe. Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll give you four quarterly editions and pay you back in full with $18 in local-restaurant gift certificates.

Better still, take two years for $26, we’ll send you eight issues and send you $36 worth of gift certificates.

Subscribe online at: www.foodanddine.com

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BY JAY FORMAN

®

®

O

pinion is divided regarding the Food Network on cable television these days. Some complain that it has gotten away from its roots. Instead of a real chef in a real kitchen cooking real food, critics grumble, we get Rachael Ray scrunching her nose at the camera as she dumps a can of mushroom soup over a frozen chicken breast and exclaims “Yum-O!” Others object that Food Network shows lately are increasingly oriented around entertainment value rather than their instructional merits.While George Duran from Ham on the Street makes a good case that a professional laundry’s steam press can indeed be used to make a great supersized Cuban sandwich, the practical value of such knowledge seems limited to extremely hungry members of the national dry-cleaning community.

Personally, I’ll be the first to admit that I’m a fan of the entertainment factor. I’m kind of tacky that way; I prefer to be entertained than to actually learn things. But I do understand why serious food enthusiasts are concerned.

I can see parallels between this and what happened with MTV in the 1980s. When MTV launched, it was all about the videos. But as the station matured it began diversifying its offerings, offering scripted shows alongside its original fare. Over time, these shows almost pushed the music out of the picture entirely. The great 120 Minutes faded into a late-night timeslot as The Real World: Wherever climbed over the prime-time slots like kudzu.

Eventually MTV-2 was born, with the mission of showing the music videos that used to be MTV’s bread and butter. Or so I am told, anyway. I can hardly peel myself away from the T-Rowe Price retirement investing commercials on VH1, which, depressingly plays the kind of stuff I listened to in college.

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I propose, then, a similar solution for Food Network! For Food Network’s equivalent of MTV-2, they could slough off the actual, instructional cooking shows like Molto Mario, and maybe fork over a ton of cash to buy the rights to all things Julia Child from PBS.Viewers who actually wish to learn how to cook things could watch this channel. Meanwhile, for the sensationalistic, tacky, lowbrow hyenas like me, the Food Network could amp up its scripted entertainment offerings with new shows like these: $1,000 a Day with Paris Hilton: Paris hits the mean streets of SoHo with only $1,000 to spend at Balducci’s. Can she put together a tasty, nutritious meal of Cosmopolitans and Twinkies on time and under budget? Will Tinkerbell turn his nose up at the take-out sushi? Will pet kinkajou Baby Luv be jealous and initiate the battle of the pocket pets? Stay tuned …

The Sopranos’ Kitchen: The show might be over, but the spinoff is just heating up. Paulie Walnuts goes postal when Olive Garden fails to “honor” its offer of unlimited salad and breadsticks. Italian import Furio, already pushing his luck with Carmela, traps and eats the ducks from Tony’s swimming pool with frightening repercussions. Find out what happened to Artie Bucco’s meatballs.

Pimp My Kitchen: Sure, Food Network already has Kitchen Accomplished, but let’s kick it up a notch with this pitch: Rapper Xzibit pairs up with Ming Tsai to trick-out run-down kitchens with an extreme signature style. Be the first guy on your block to own a Wolf cooktop with a neon kit, triple-stack spoiler, and retractable griddle. And with the Nitro injector tied into the main burner line,

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you can boil water in less time than it takes a ZR-1 to smoke a quarter-mile.

Feasting with Felt: Alton Brown pairs up with The Swedish Chef of Muppet fame to recreate classic Norwegian dishes like lutefisk and pickled herring. The host’s witty banter includes such classic exchanges as this: Alton Brown: Now chef, let’s show our viewers how they can create their own reindeer jerky using nothing but a common hairdryer and some fiberglass air conditioning filters.

Swedish Chef: Yorn desh born de ritt bub de gue. Børk! Børk! Børk! (Smacks Brown in face with rubber mallet.)

American Smoker: What’s more American than cars and barbeque? Nothing. So here’s a show that blends the two pastimes. The mustachioed Paul Teutul Sr. teams up with Bobby Flay to outfit classic American muscle cars with custom-built smokers. The only thing finer than a 1968 Pontiac GTO would be a 1968 Pontiac GTO with a Lang Smoker Cooker welded through the fastback.

Competition BBQ can now be street-legal, and your pit can smoke the quarter-mile along with the pork butt.

Rachael Ray vs. Giada De Laurentiis: (PayPer-View Only) Thunderdome-style cage match between the two culinary starlets.

Two Women Enter, One Woman Leaves!

From the bars of the cages hang a wicked assortment of immersion blenders, potato ricers and rolling pins.Who will win? Giada is Italian, but I bet Rachael Ray fights dirty.

My money is on her.

Truffle’s Landing: A soap opera set in the Périgord region of France where money, sex, and underground fungi combine in an explosive mix of passion and mushrooms.

Anyway, these are just a few starter ideas. I’m sure the creative folks at the network that came up with Rachael Ray and made Paula Deen famous can handle a concept like this. Now, if you will excuse me, I have to get back to VH1.The term life insurance commercial is over and they’re playing my song. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 15

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

VxÄxuÜtàxw S TARTERS Bristol Bar & Grille’s

Green Chili Won Tons Artichoke Fritters Black Bean Soup

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W

ho doesn’t love an appetizer? Savory, often salty, as literally appetizing as their name implies, these small plates can play an appealing overture for an indulgent meal to follow, or a series of them can make a meal.

This is sociable fare, often shared; an appetizer course invites conversation while we munch, and it just about calls out for a libation to enjoy alongside.

For more than 30 years now, the Bristol Bar & Grille has been satisfying that empty tummy place for Louisvillians, and more than a few of the city’s favorite bite-size starters made their first local appearance there. So renowned are the Bristol’s appetizers that it has dominated Louisville magazine’s Best of Louisville Awards and LEO’s Awards in the category.

It is not possible to think of the Bristol without contemplating its trademark Green Chili Won Tons. They must have made a million of them since co-founder Bim Deitrich (now at Primo) tweaked a Gourmet magazine recipe to create the first one around 1978, owner Doug Gossman said. The No. 1-selling item on the restaurant’s menu, it was

an obvious choice as a “Menu Gem” in one of the first editions of Food & Dining.

Now, by popular demand, we bring the recipe back for an encore, along with two other Bristol favorites: the Cubanstyle Black Bean Soup and the addictive Artichoke Fritters.

The fritters — which are the restaurant’s No. 2 top seller — go back almost to the beginning, Gossman said, adding, “It’s not an original menu item but close to it.” According to material provided by the Bristol, Gossmann and Tim Martin, another of the original owners, enjoyed a similar appetizer in Chicago. Gossman described it to Lon Durbin, then the chef, and he came up with the Bristol’s version.

The Black Bean Soup was the result of a pragmatic menu quest: “We wanted a good Cuban item on our menu, and the job to develop one was given to our kitchen staff.

We already used black beans on our menu so the decision was made to use them again. Cuban-style Black Bean Soup was a natural and a Bristol Bar & Grille staple was born.”

These starters are always a hit at the Bristol. If you want a change of pace, here’s how to make them at home.

artichoke fritters

4 13.75-ounce cans of artichoke quarters 3 large eggs 3 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard 21/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar 1 cup all-purpose flour Dash of Cavender’s All Purpose Greek Seasoning 1. Drain and rough-chop the artichoke hearts.

2. Lightly whisk the eggs and combine them in a bowl with the mustard, vinegar, flour and Cavender’s to make a batter. Fold in artichokes.

3. Preheat deep-fryer to 350 degrees. Drop the fritter batter by spoonfuls into the hot oil and fry until golden brown, approximately 3 to 5 minutes.

4. Serve with remoulade sauce, a spicy variation of tartar sauce.

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black bean soup 11/2 pounds kielbasa sausage, cubed 11/2 pounds bratwurst, cubed 2 pounds bulk Italian sausage 12 ounces yellow onion 3 tablespoons minced garlic 1 /4 cup olive oil 4 large cans black beans 8 cups water 2 ounces ham “base” (frozen stock concentrate, available at many grocers) 1 ounce lemon juice 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 /2 teaspoon cayenne 3 /4 teaspoon dried thyme 1 /4 cup dried parsley 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 /4 cup brown sugar 1 /4 cup cornstarch 1 /2 cup Madeira (or sweeter-style Sherry) 1. Cube the kielbasa and bratwurst.

Cook on a sheet pan for 20 minutes in an oven preheated to 350 degrees.

2. Break up Italian sausage with a fork and cook it in a pot of simmering water.

3. Peel and chop the onions and garlic and sauté them in olive oil in a 3-gallon soup pot for 4 minutes.

4. Add beans, water, ham base, lemon juice and all the herbs and seasonings.

Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

5. Drain the Italian sausage and add it to the simmering soup.

6. Drain the fat from the kielbasa and bratwurst and add them to the soup.

Cook for 1 hour.

7. Dissolve the cornstarch in the Madeira to make a “slurry,” and pour it into the simmering soup, stirring constantly.

8. Cook for 2 minutes more, and your soup is ready. Serve with sour cream and diced red onion as garnish.

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green chili won tons

Assemble the four simple ingredients, keeping the wrappers moist with a damp cloth.

Fold the corner on the left…

Mix the filling ingredients, blending the green chilis and jalapeños evenly throughout the cheese.

Place the cheese mixture near the bottom corner of the won ton wrapper.

Fold the bottom corner up and over the filling.

…and the right over the rolled filling.

Brush remaining corner of wrapper with water before folding to enclose filling. Press lightly to seal.

Deep fry one minute until crispy and golden.

Guacamole Dipping Sauce (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP) 2 avocados 3 green onions 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon seasoned salt mix 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 /2 cup mayonnaise 1. Mash the avocados. Mince the green onions.

2. Blend all ingredients thoroughly to make a thick dip.

(MAKES 18 WON TONS) 1 /2 cup canned green chilis 1 /4 cup canned jalepeños 1 pound Monterey Jack cheese, shredded 18 won ton wrappers 1. Put the green chilis, jalepeños and cheese in a blender and puree.

2. Put two tablespoons of the cheese mixture near the bottom corner of a won ton wrapper. Fold the bottom corner up and over the cheese. Then fold over the right and left corners.

Finally, brush a little water on the top corner and fold it down over the other three to make an envelope.

Repeat with the remaining cheese mixture and won ton wrappers.

3. Heat oil to 350 degrees and deep fry for one minute. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 19

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people and places profiles

20 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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Beer-Friendly Eateries “B

eer,” the German philosopher Frederich Nietzsche once famously said, “helps us get to the bottom of things,” a compelling philosophical statement that resonates with the staff here at Food & Dining.

We wouldn’t want to give the impression that we’re a mere beer-sodden lot. But neither do we scorn the inspirational benefits of the grape or the barley corn.

Indeed, a foaming mug or two can be an important accessory at our editorial meetings.

So it was as we began planning for this edition, in a casual gathering to kick ideas around and plan assignments for the coming issue. If the thinking process can be turbocharged with a ration of artisanal brew (the only kind that our inimitable beer expert Roger A. Baylor will approve), why, there’s nothing wrong with that.

We whizzed through much of the editorial calendar before the head fell back from the first mug, quickly dispatching our columnists, drink writers and recipe creators on their chores. Lent and fish-fry season were coming up at press time, so Greg Gapsis’s takeout on fish sandwiches was the obvious pick for a major feature story.

But then comes the most challenging task that our assignment team faces: Coming up with a theme, and a representative selection of chefs or restaurant owners, for Food & Dining ’s quarterly Profiles feature, is almost never as simple as it seems. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 21

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First we have to dream up a topic — young chefs, oldguard chefs, great restaurant hosts, ethnic eats — then narrow the field down to three to six restaurant people to profile. This is serious work, for the interviews have to fit together like a jigsaw puzzle to create an overall picture, and we certainly don’t want to leave anyone out.

First, we put together a list of contenders on the topic we’ve chosen.Then comes the more difficult job of whittling this list down to size: Have we profiled a chef recently under another topic? Would one chef fit in better under a different topic that we’ll cover later? Is our list interesting and diverse?

Would two of the chefs be similar enough that it would be better to hold one for another time to avoid duplication?

We take pains to be fair to everyone, but the challenge is daunting … and it often calls for a trip back to the beer cellar for another moderate round of liquid inspiration.

The profiles we bring you today, for instance, posed a real Two Beer challenge. I popped the cork from a Belgian Chimay “Cinq Cents.” Someone pulled a growler of New Albanian’s sturdy Elector Ale, and I think I saw somebody stealthily grab a Bud Light.

Hey! Did somebody say “beer”? Why not profile worthy eateries where beer is not just an afterthought; where the beer list is as worthy as (or even maybe more worthy) than the wine selection? This could be great! All of us love good beer and understand that beer is an elegant, thoughtprovoking beverage in its own right, and needn’t take second place to wine as a companion with food.

As we refined the concept, we realized that we shouldn’t focus on the city’s microbreweries and brewpubs, as excellent as they are. Great beer and delicious pizza or pub grub may pair brilliantly; but today we’re looking for something different, something special: Excellent restaurants with superior food and thoughtful, diverse beer lists presented by proprietors who take beer very seriously indeed.

We make no claim that our selection is exhaustive.

Each of our trio of beer-friendly restaurants is different, each unique. Please sit back with us and pour yourself a good brew — no industrial-brand swill, please! — as writer Michael L. Jones introduces us to: Browning’s in Slugger Field — although it is a brewpub, crafting its own fine beer, Browning’s makes this cut because it shares its chef, Jay Denham, and its kitchen, with the decidedly white-tablecloth Park Place on Main next door. Denham’s quality cuisine makes a stellar match with Brian Reymiller’s splendid microbrews.

Café Lou Lou — relocated last year from Clifton to St. Matthews, a popular, casual bistro where Chef Clay Wallace offers an eclectic bill of fare with a hint of New Orleans and a Mediterranean flair, and a very good selection of American microbrewery beers.

Maido Essential Japanese — located in Clifton, where proprietors Jim and Toki Huie present an exceptional beer list at the city’s most unusual Japanese restaurant, featuring authentic izakaya, the small-plates specialty of Japan’s second city, Osaka.

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Browning’s Brewery brian reymiller 401 E. MAIN ST. (SLUGGER FIELD) 515-0174 Any good brewer knows that there are four essential ingredients for beer: malted barley, water, hops and yeast. After that everything else depends on the personal taste, creativity and skill of the brewer.

At Browning’s, brewmaster Brian Reymiller has an extra layer of complexity because he brews not only with an eye towards making good beer but pairing it with specific dishes. “You’ll find that beer will lend itself to food much easier than wine,” Reymiller said. “It always seems like beer takes a back seat to wine. One thing I tried to do is show people the complexity that beer offers.

Beer even has some things that wine doesn’t have. The carbonation of certain beers tends to cut through fats, certain cheeses and meats.You’ll find that beers pair well with certain vinaigrettes and salads.”

Reymiller, 33, is serious about brewing. Last year, he and his assistant, Alan Wright, produced 550 barrels of beer, which tallies up to more than 17,000 gallons. Most of the beer was served at Browning’s in Slugger Field on East Main Street.The restaurant also makes beer for more than 30 establishments in Louisville and Southern Indiana that carry Browning’s beer on tap.

Four times a year, Reymiller makes special batches for a Browning’s beer dinner, in which each course of a four-course meal is accompanied by a different brew. Reymiller said he works closely with Chef Jay Denham to pair the food and beer at these events. He considers them a real highlight of his job because they spur him to experiment. One year he created a barley wine, a strong ale, out of shagbark hickory syrup after he and Denham discovered a vendor who sold homemade syrups at a farmer’s market in Indianapolis.

“It’s great to work with Jay, because he’s someone who knows the complexity of different beers,” Reymiller said. “Something else we have done in the past is we’ve used rosemary in place of hops.

We did that in a Belgian-style beer. The rosemary lends itself to the wild yeast in that beer. We also finished it off with blueberries and blackberries.”

Besides the beer dinner, Reymiller established such recurring traditions at Browning’s as the annual festival dedicated to Saint Hildegard, the patron saint of beer. “It’s kind of our take on Octoberfest and also our homage to St. Hildegard who was just a renaissance woman,” he said. “She was a musician, also a brewer and a botanist. She was one of the first people to document the use of hops in beer.”

Reymiller was born in Dayton, Ohio. He started brewing after high school when he moved to Knoxville, Tennessee. “I had these neighbors that got me into home brewing,” he said.“The first thing we did was make potato vodka. We started off with vodka and from there we moved on to different beers. I really owe this to them. I really fell in love with it. I don’t home brew as much as I’d like to, but I still have a system set up.”

Reymiller was so obsessed with brewing that he became a sponge for knowledge. When he heard that the Smoky Mountain Brewery was opening up in Knoxville, he went down to see if

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there were any opportunities to learn. He ended up serving a year-and-a-half apprenticeship at the brewery. “I remember brewing the first batch of beer there before there was even a roof on the place,” Reymiller said. “I was making minimum wage. Lucky for me, it was one of those times in my life when I didn’t need a whole lot of money.”

The biggest difference between home brewing and professional brewing is the volume, Reymiller said. If you mess up on a five-gallon batch of home brew, you can just throw it out without much apprehension. If you mess up 300 gallons of beer, it’s a different story. But Reymiller learned his lessons well enough to get a job as a brewmaster at Hops Grill & Brewery, a national chain of microbreweries which then had two locations in Kentucky, in Bowling Green and Louisville.

Reymiller came to Louisville to work at the Hops restaurant here, but the chain soon had him traveling across the country. “I’d

At Browning’s, Reymiller has room to experiment with flavor, color and potency. Malted barley provides beer its color, so the darker beers use darker malts than lighter ones. “Alcohol content is controlled by a couple of things. One is the amount of fermentable sugars that you have,” Reymiller said. “The more fermentable sugars the higher the alcohol content. Also there is what is called the mashing process. Depending on what temperature you mash your beers at, you’ll have either more alcohol content or more body.”

One popular beer at Halloween is pumpkin beer, but you won’t find it at Browning’s. “Pumpkin really doesn’t have much flavor,” Reymiller said. “What you really taste in those beers are cinnamon and nutmeg spices. I’m not really big on adding extracts or spices to the beer.We have regulars that are always like,‘You’ve got to try this.’ I’d love to do it, but unfortunately, I have to sell 300 gallons of it to somebody. Sometimes the experiments turn out

PHOTO BY EDIS CELIK

Browning’s brewmaster Brian Reymiller

go open a location and I’d train a new brewer,” Reymiller said.

“Also, if a brewer got fired, quit or whatever at one of the locations, I’d kind of go in there and fill in. Then I’d leave after I trained a replacement. I left Hops to go to the Victory Brewing Company outside of Philadelphia. They have award-winning brewers there and I learned tons about beer.”

Reymiller returned to Louisville to work at Browning’s, which had opened in 2002.“It just seemed that Browning’s wanted to be more creative than your average brewpub,” he said. “Not a lot of guys get to use their creativity in the brewing setting. Here, I was basically handed a brewery and told to make good beer.”

great, sometimes not. It’s hard to sell 300 gallons of off-the-wall beer at a smallish brewpub.

“We have five beers that we keep on tap year-round. Our flagship brands and the other three or four taps we rotate for different seasons. With fall, we do Octoberfest beer. With winter we try to do a little darker, more full-bodied beer. Springtime we bring out a little bit lighter beer, more flavorful, fruitier and kind of refreshing. The same for summer: in summer you don’t want to have a lot of full-bodied beers. Brewing is a seasonal thing.”

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Browning’s Bourbon tri-tip with blue cheese, bourbon molasses sauce, served with crispy potatoes and vegetables. Recommended beer: Bourbon Barrel Stout.

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attract a broader population than the regular clientele who come mostly for the micro-brewed beers. “Game day tends to drive a lot of our regular clientele away, because they don’t want to deal with the crowds,” Reymiller said.“Other than that, I don’t really see a big change. My light beer, the Helles, I sell a lot more of that on game days.That’s the biggest difference I’ll see.”

Because Browning’s has customers with diverse tastes, Reymiller is one of the few brewmasters who has no problem serving mass-market brands at his facility. “Say we have a party of eight people that want to dine here, but one of those people doesn’t want to drink draft beer,” Reymiller said. “Instead of losing that party of eight, we’ll carry those beers in the hopes that they will come and dine. We are not going to lose dinner for eight because one person has to have a mass-market, macro-brewed beer. So, we offer that. Also, I think it helps during football season. A lot of the crowd hasn’t been exposed to micro-brewed beer. Whether they are willing to try something new or not, we still have something to offer.”

When he is drinking for pleasure himself, Reymiller enjoys visiting other micro-breweries because it gives him a chance to check out the competition … and he knows the beer is fresh

since it wasn’t shipped from somewhere else. Louisville has a vast history of brewing thanks to the large number of German and Irish immigrants that settled here. Reymiller said the local breweries carrying on that tradition are excellent and uses some of them to fill the extra taps at Browning’s. “It’s all more about offering the consumer a better experience,” he said. “If there is a brewer out there that can do a different style than me, I’ll be glad to put their beers on tap.”

Reymiller said that Louisville’s commercial brewers have formed their own social circle. If he runs out of ingredients for something, he can call over to BBC or Cumberland Brews to borrow what he needs.

Only another brewer can appreciate the pros and cons of the brewing life. “This job takes a lot of self-discipline because when I come in I’m not bound by a time clock or anything like that,” Reymiller said. “I’m just bound by how much beer we go through. One week I might only work 30 hours a week, but the next week I’m doubling up and working 60 hours a week. We have distributors now in Louisville and Southern Indiana. When they want beer I’ve got to make that happen. But, on the plus side, I love what I’m doing.”

A bone-in pork chop with an apple cider reduction served with house-made apple sauce, mashed potatoes and vegetables from Browning’s Brewery.

Recommended beer: Roseberry Triple.

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Café Lou Lou clay wallace 106 SEARS AVE. 893-7776 Moving usually means leaving something behind. But when Café Lou Lou relocated from Clifton to St. Matthews last July, coowner and Chef Clay Wallace took as much of Frankfort Avenue as he could with him — right down to the lime and orange decor.

“The colors are all the same,” Wallace said. “We did everything pretty much the same as far as the appearance of the building.The artwork is even the same, although I think it looks better here.

Basically, we took everything good about the old Lou Lou and put it in the new one.”

Café Lou Lou moved from a very old building on Frankfort Avenue to much more modern space in a commercial strip just off busy Shelbyville Road. The new location boasts more space than the old and, Wallace said, the building is in much better shape. The restaurant gained 20 seats in the dining room, a gain unfortunately offset by the loss of outdoor seating. Wallace plans to add an outdoor area to the new location soon.

One definite upgrade is the new restaurant’s striking copper bar and the three flat-screen televisions behind it. Wallace said he 26 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

put a lot of thought into stocking the bar when he was dreaming up the new concept.

“At the old place we only had three beer handles,” he said. All three of the beers were from BBC, thanks mostly to his friendship with the St. Matthews brewpub’s management. The new bar boasts 12 taps, five or six of them pouring BBC brews. “That gives us a chance to try some other ones in there. We still have some good bottled beers. Same as the old restaurant, there is no foreign.

It’s all domestic microbrews!”

Among the new names on the taps at Café Lou Lou are Schlafly, a St. Louis microbrewery, and Ommegang, a Cooperstown, New York brewery that produces Hennepin, an outstanding Belgian-style beer.

Wallace’s beer selection process was simple: “We were closed for 10 days from the old place to the new place,” he said.

“During those 10 days we painted a lot and drank a lot of beer.

My idea about beer, especially for the microbrews, is just to be unique. Just to be different from Brendan’s or BW3 or any of the

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Chef Wallace’s tilapia salad. Grilled tilapia on mixed greens with hearts of palm, Kalamata olives, red onions, avocado and mango oranges with an orange tarragon vinaigrette.

Recommended beer: Ommegang Hennepin Farmhouse Saison.

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places that are right around here. We’d love to have some more New Orleans beer, but the company that distributes them, they aren’t a reliable company to get the product through, which is a bummer.

We are about to add two New Orleans beers, Dixie and a dark beer called Blackened Voodoo.” The New Orleans brewery only recently returned to full production after Hurricane Katrina, he said.

Wallace has strong ties to New Orleans: He lived there for nearly nine years after graduating from Atherton High School in Louisville. In fact, when Wallace opened Café Lou Lou in 2004, he created the restaurant’s name by combining “Louisville” and “Louisiana.” Café Lou Lou built a good reputation with its gourmet pizza and Cajun-inspired dishes over the years, but Wallace never felt the restaurant garnered the following it deserved. “I expected a lot more out of (Clifton) as far as business and traffic and all of that goes,” Wallace said. “When we opened the old Lou Lou, we used to be very busy at five o’clock, and it used to be families with young kids and older people.You would think that we would get a lot of lunch traffic from downtown, but we really didn’t get a lot. …

What we realized was a whole ton of our business was already coming from (St. Matthews). For some reason, be it parking or whatever, they didn’t want to make the drive down there (to Frankfort Avenue).”

So, Wallace decided to make the move to St. Matthews. But he realized that he’d have to invest in some crucial areas if Café Lou Lou was to stand out in its new environment. With that in mind, Wallace hired the restaurant’s first in-house pastry chef, and he recruited Executive Chef Matt Johnson from Colorado.

“Standing out in St. Matthews means being as good, or better, than the guy next door as far as points of service,” Wallace said. “I and my chef are able to do more creative specials than we used to do (at the old Café Lou Lou).The clientele here is just a little bit more upscale; they’ve got a little bit more money and they are willing to buy $25 sea bass and nicer specials that we are able to run.At Lou Lou down the road, I use to make soup and sometimes it wouldn’t sell.

(Now) we make two soups a day and they are gone. It’s a different ballgame really.”

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The investment in staff and services has paid off. Café Lou Lou did about $1.1 million in sales last year, and it is on course to do $2.4 million in sales over its first 12 months in St. Matthews. In fact, Wallace is even making plans for another branch. “I want to open in 2008 for sure,” he said.“I’m looking hard in the Highlands, but I’m not finding anything. I’m also looking hard in New Albany.”

A large part of the increased sales can be attributed to busier lunches. Wallace never thought he’d operate one of those places where East End women gather in groups to lunch, but he’s not knocking it.

“You can come here any day of the week at lunch and it is 90 percent women, which is fine with me,” he said. “It’s ladies having lunch in St. Matthews. Dinner is just big with everybody. It’s a combination of people who have been with us for a while and new regulars. You might sit down and the guy next to you may be having a 14inch pizza with his wife and two kids. They might spend, with drinks and soda, about $22. The four people at the table next to them might all have specials, they might have salads and all be drinking and spend $222. So, we really do run the gauntlet as far as that goes.”

Wallace purchased the NFL broadcast package for the bar televisions this year, so Lou Lou became ground zero for New Orleans Saints games. He plans to do the same with basketball so local fans can cheer the Hornets. Still, Wallace wants bar patrons who will stop by Café Lou Lou regularly whether a game is on or not.“The bar business has increased for no other reason than we fill up so quickly in (the dining room),” Wallace said.“People will eat at the bar tables with no problem. That said, I still don’t have the 20 to 25 guys standing here drinking beer and eating peanuts, which I wouldn’t mind.We’ve tried all kinds of avenues to get them in here advertising-wise.You have to look for every niche you can fill. When my beer guys walk in the door that’s one of the first things we talk about, and my wine guys too. I’m asking them,‘Who’s got this around us.’ If anybody has got it around us, we don’t get it. I just pass and we try something else, because I want people to get hooked on what we have here so they come back.”

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Café Lou Lou’s smoked salmon pizza with goat cheese, capers, Kalamata olives, artichoke hearts, mozzarella cheese and marinara sauce.

Recommended beer: Schlafly APA.

Also from Café Lou Lou, angel hair pasta with shrimp, asparagus, spinach and tomatoes in a white wine, olive oil and garlic sauce, topped with smoked salt.

Recommended beer: BBC Mardi Gras Red.

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Maido Essential Japanese

Jim Huie is a self-professed “hop head,” a guy with discriminating taste when it comes to beer.

Huie, who with his wife Toki Masubuchi Huie owns Maido Essential Japanese in Clifton, personally selected the 35 specialty brews on the restaurant’s beer list. He also wrote the descriptions of them on the menu, mustering lyrical beer-tasting prose like this entry for McChouffe’s Golden Ale: “This gloriously intoxicating 9% spiced brown, Scot-influenced abbey ale is simply a masterpiece … that’s what happens when a Scottish gnome visits the Ardennes mountains.”

“I doubt there is a restaurant in town with a better beer list than we have,” Huie bragged. “We are probably the only restaurant in the city, including Bluegrass Brewing Company in St.

thumbed through it then she looked up at me and said, ‘I don’t think so.’ She grabbed the guy, who I think was cool with what we had, and they walked out.”

Huie, 42, was born in Murray, Kentucky, but his family moved to Louisville when he was young. After graduating from Atherton High School, he drifted into the service industry, first as a waiter and then as a bartender. “A lot of people in school wait tables for a living,” Huie said. “When you wait tables it’s cash in your pockets every night.Then I moved into bartending, which is more cash in your pocket every night.Then here we are.”

Huie admits that he wasn’t always so picky about his beverage of choice. When he was younger, serving tables at local restaurants, he drank whatever was on sale at Kroger.

Then he started bartending at local microbreweries, Bluegrass Brewing Co. in St. Matthews and later Cumberland Brews in the Highlands. He was also influenced by Roger Baylor, owner of New Albanian Brewing Co. in Southern Indiana (and Food & Dining’s beer writer).

Matthews, that doesn’t carry any Budweiser, Coors or Miller products. It’s all microbrews or imports.”

Inevitably, of course, some customers summon a Budweiser or Miller Lite without looking at the list, unaware that there are no mass-market domestic beers in the house. Huie tries his best to steer them toward a more artisan brew with a flavor they might enjoy. “Some of the ones that drink Budweiser, you give them a Kirin or Asahi (Japanese lager beers from large producers) and they’ll be okay with that,” he said.

“But that doesn’t always work. One summer, this couple came in and they were sitting at the bar because we were on a wait. It was a nice-looking couple, early 30s I guess; they had a nicelooking car and everything.The lady said, ‘I’ll take a Bud Light.’ And I said, ‘Sorry, we don’t have that, but here is the beer list.’ She

Being around people who really knew their hops changed Huie’s perspective. “I always liked working in a microbrewery because you always knew that the people were there for the beer,” he said.“Not that I’m ripping any group of customers. People obviously come to Maido for the Japanese food. But being in a microbrewery left its mark.

“Brewmasters have a disdain for light beer that dribbles down to employees,” he said.“My favorite beers are the pale ales.

Finally, you are seeing restaurants come around a little bit and having more hoppy beer.” (Hops, traditionally used as a bitter flavoring agent and preservative in beer, are found imperceptibly if at all in mild, lager-style mass-market brews, shunned by “hopheads” who can’t imagine their favorite beverage without them.)

jim & toki huie 1758 FRANKFORT AVE. 894-8775

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Maido’s Japanese carpaccio: thin sliced yellowfin tuna and white tuna topped with green onions and fresh ginger and drizzled with hot sesame oil and drops of soy sauce.

Recommended beer: Bell’s Two Hearted Ale.

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people and places profiles “It’ll just blow your mind:You can go to a four-star restaurant in town and they’ll have 20 beers on the menu, but they’ll all be lagers. There will be no hoppy beer there, and hoppy beers pair really well with food.That’s why I like the bars that I occasionally frequent. I’ll tell them, ‘If you don’t try carrying this beer and this beer, I’m not coming up here any more.’ You’ve got to have something good and hoppy to drink.”

Lagers and ales have different characteristics because of the kinds of yeasts used in the brewing process, he explained.

“The hops (in ales) are bitter. It’s almost like a floral, spicy bitterness. I’m not knocking lagers, but there are a ton of lagers out there.”

Maido is an extension of the connection between Huie and Toki, his wife and the restaurant’s co-owner. The couple met in 1995 when he was waiting tables at

Ditto’s in the Highlands. Huie noticed Toki, who is Japanese, when she came to the restaurant on a date with someone else.

When she returned with a girlfriend another day, he ran across the street in the rain to the Super America service station, intending to buy her a fake rose. The romantic gesture was thwarted because the store was out of roses that night.

Instead, the rain-drenched Huie sat at Toki’s booth and told her he thought she was beautiful. They were married in 2000; they opened Maido four years later.

The fusion of East and West mindsets is one key to the restaurant’s popularity. “(Toki) worked in restaurants when she was here going to school and I worked in restaurants, so it was a natural progress. And we’ve been really successful,” Huie said.

“We’re really unique when it comes to Japanese restaurants in Louisville, for sure,”

A sushi platter from Maido: (top) Dragon Reborn: maki-sushi roll of cucumber, avocado and kanpyo wrapped with roasted yellow and red peppers. (right) Tuna sashimi with avocado. (bottom) Romantic Journey: maki-sushi roll of scallop, mango and roasted red pepper. Recommended beer: Duvel.

32 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

he said. “All of the others are the same, they are like an Americanized style of Japanese food. A lot of our food, you might even call it Japanese home cooking. Toki is from Japan and her dad is a chef who owns a lot of restaurants. The fusion of our sensibilities comes through in our sushi rolls. … My thing is making sushi rolls with less than traditional ingredients. You can pretty much use anything you want. You just need seaweed and rice.”

One of Huie’s favorite sushi creations is his Citrus Heat, which includes red tuna and diced jalapeños with a little hot sauce.

The outside of the roll is decorated with roasted red peppers and Japanese mayonnaise, which is more intensely flavored than the domestic variety.

“In Japan, everything is very simple,” Huie said. “For sushi, you’ll just have a tuna roll or a piece of tuna or salmon. But in

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America, you got to have roasted red pepper, garlic, something on the outside, hit it with a blowtorch and splash oil on top of it. It’s the same with beers. In Japan, you go to restaurants and you really don’t have to order it. You just say, ‘I want a beer’ and they’ll bring you whatever that restaurant carries.”

Maido recently added lunch service and an all-you-can-eat Japanese buffet from noon to 3 p.m. weekdays. Huie said the restaurant’s business has matured along with the restaurant scene that surrounds it.“Some people open a restaurant for $500,000 and go out of business in six months,” he said. “We really opened this place on a budget and yet we’re still going after four years. The menu is bigger than when we first opened. Definitely the sushi list is bigger. From my end as far as beers, we have a much bigger beer list now. Right now, the 35 beers that I have are all that I can physically carry. I always knew that if I opened a restaurant it would have a good beer list.”

The list includes Bell’s Kalamazoo Stout and BBC American Pale Ale. Huie said he worked feverishly to create a beer selection that would appeal to discriminating tastes like his own.

That’s why he is happy that Maido’s beer program has developed a following of its own.

The emergence of a beer-happy clientele persuades him that he’s not alone in his pursuit of good, hoppy brews. “Even though we have a small bar, we have a regular bar clientele,” he said. “They hang out at the bar and eat food as well, but they are mainly here for the beer list. We have a happy hour every day.

“I like the fact that we don’t serve any mass-market domestic beers,” he said.

“The distributors that carry them are calling me all the time asking, ‘Are you sure you don’t want some of this or that?’ I just laugh, because I know what I want.” F&D

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

Hearty Beers C

onsider the hardy and utterly determined St. Bernard dog, bravely trotting through the pervasive whiteness and icy debris of Alpine avalanche sites to rescue wayward travelers. Sadly, one essential aspect of this enduring popular legend simply isn’t accurate. The dogs, named after the hazardous St. Bernard Pass between Switzerland and Italy, are certainly real, but the little wooden barrels of restorative liquids supposedly carried around their necks have no basis in fact.

Although the notion that these containers exist and are filled with brandy may be mythology, it might surprise you to learn that certain beers perform similar warming magic — even without the dogs — in less snowy and mountainous realms, such as pancakeflat rural Flanders or the cigarette-butt-strewn length of sidewalk outside a Munich beer hall.

That’s because the icy chill of winter always has prompted brewers to think big. This should come as no surprise, considering that brewing has been historically oriented toward cooler, northerly climes. Just as hearty soups, thick stews and steaming cauldrons of roast beast appeal to the primeval palate in winter (who wants to subsist on waxen tomatoes in February?), brawny seasonal beers provide sustenance and texture appropriate to the challenging weather.

Better yet, the array of traditional wintertime beer specialties has been further augmented by variations and fresh creations during the craft-beer renaissance of the past quarter century.

Well-known styles like Doppelbock, Imperial Stout and Barley Wine have now been joined by Founders Devil Dancer Triple IPA, Dogfish Head’s Worldwide Stout and Immort Ale, and a variety of highly alcoholic brews aged in barrels previously used for Bourbon, Scotch, Port and Sherry, like the J.W. Lees Vintage Harvest Ale lineup from the United Kingdom.

34 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

As for me, I’m sticking to the legend: Those cute wooden barrels need to be filled. What are some of the choices?

First, an “Abt” namesake: St. Bernardus Abt (abbot) 12, a Belgian abbey ale with 10.5 percent alcohol, dark and rich with undertones of chocolate, molasses and plums.While not brewed in a cer tified monastic setting, Abt 12 is as fine a substitute for a Trappist beer as is brewed in Belgium today. Conceptual counterpar ts include Achel Kluis Extra, Chimay Grande Reserve and Rochefort 10 (all sanctioned Trappists), and a panoply of secular Belgians, among them Gouden Carolus Grand Cru of the Emperor, Gulden Draak, N’Ice Chouffe and Kasteel Brown.

In keeping with the theme of emergency number 9-1-1, a St. Bernard and brandy in a howling blizzard, it’s useful to contemplate what the dog would have brought you for revival prior to the advent of distillation, which is a manmade process for exceeding nature’s limitations by concentrating the alcohol resulting from fermentation. Oddly, teetotaling Middle Easterners are said to have invented distillation to assist in making perfume; and less surprisingly, winking Irishmen still insist that their forefathers were the ones who saved western civilization by “perfecting” the process to yield whisky, presumably far better for the soul when ingested rather than splashed on one’s neck.

The only way to concentrate the alcohol in a fermented beverage without distillation is by freezing it. Noting that water freezes before alcohol, brewers in olden times exposed barrels of their already strong beer to the elements, came back later to scoop off the ice, and were left with a final product of increased alcohol content as well as enhanced flavor. It was at this point that the long wooden tables began sagging beneath the weight of roast beast, and hibernation predictably ensued.

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Happily, two excellent contemporary examples of such “Ice Bock” are imported from Bavaria. The malty, sweet and balanced Kulmbacher Reichelsbrau Eisbock hails from the famous brewing city of Kulmbach in nor thern Franconia.

Fur ther south, the world-renowned Schneider wheat ale brewery makes Aventinus Eisbock, which takes its name from its source, Schneider’s already imposing Aventinus Wheat Doppelbock.

The flavors and aromas of clove, apple and banana registered by the brewery’s flagship Schneider Weisse become even more intense in Aventinus Doppelbock, and are heightened a half turn of the flavor dial in the exuberant Eisbock.

Another style of wintry ale currently evolving in the United States summons wheat as a common denominator. Wheat Wine is a high-gravity variant of its more familiar forerunner, Barley Wine, but it is set apart by a substantial percentage of wheat malts in the grist. The result is a lighter color than Barley Wine and a pleasing, soft effervescence that doesn’t sacrifice punch. Two prominent craft brewers, both located in proximity to summer wheat fields and winter snow, head the list: Two Brothers Bare Tree (Illinois) and New Holland Pilgrim’s Dole (Michigan).

Food is a final consideration. Once the weary traveler has been spotted by the St. Bernard rescue dog and assisted to the hospice for dry clothes and a good night’s sleep, what repast is best suited with the strong Belgians, German Eisbocks, American Wheat Wines, Barley Wines, Imperial Stouts and Doppelbocks?

Apart from the obvious soups and stews, surely the single best cuisine for post-rescue contemplation by a roaring fire is a diverse cheese plate, perhaps augmented with salamis and hams. If there is any one aspect that these bigger beers share, it is an intensity of character that gloriously elevates them beyond mere quaffing into a realm of value for its own sake.They serve for sipping and reflection, but they pull duty in places where fortified wines and liqueurs ordinarily hold sway.

Grab a good book, assemble a selection of good cheeses and strong beer, and relax in the ensuing warmth. Cigars are optional, but don’t forget the noble St. Bernard. After all, the dog knows where you’re coming from. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 35

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BY DAVID LANGE

Turkish Coffee I

n previous articles, we have discussed various ways of preparing and enjoying coffee at home. We have dissected the French press and outlined the proper way to enjoy coffee’s supreme essence. And for those with home espresso brewers, we discussed how to brew the perfect espresso and to construct the various coffees that can be derived from this basic building block.

This time, let’s talk about some alternative brewing methods that are used in other countries. One of my favorites is Turkish coffee, which is popular in much of the Middle East and Northern Africa.

The equipment needed for Turkish coffee, or “kahve,” is minimal and the preparation is simple, but the resulting elixir is most rewarding.

To prepare Turkish coffee, you will need an ibrik, a narrow-topped small boiling pot, usually made of copper with a wooden handle. The size of the pot is carefully chosen to match the amount needed for serving, as using a pot too large will cause much of the precious foam to be left stuck inside. The pot must also be deep enough to hold sufficient water for the coffee 36 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

particles to sink to the bottom. You’ll also need a teaspoon to measure and stir the coffee and sugar that will be added. An ordinary stove burner is sufficient for heating, but high heat is undesirable, as the brewing time needs to last at least five minutes.

As with other ways of preparing coffee, the best Turkish coffee is made from freshly roasted beans ground just before brewing. A dark roast is preferable but even a medium roast coffee will yield a strong aroma and flavor.The grinding is done either by pounding in a mor tar (the original method) or using a mill (the more usual method today); the end result is a fine coffee powder. It is the finest grind of coffee that is used in any coffee preparation.

Measure out the exact amount of water needed, using the cups. The water should be cold, so if using sugar, choose a type that dissolves easily. Put the water in the pot first, then put in the measured coffee — one to two heaping teaspoons for each cup — and sugar to your taste. Sometimes ground cardamom is also used, but that practice is slowly losing popularity.

Stir the coffee and sugar until all the coffee sinks and the sugar is dissolved.Then take out the spoon and put the pot on the fire. Do not stir after this point, as stirring would dissolve the desirable coffee foam.

Just as the coffee starts to boil, remove the pot from the heat and pour the coffee into the cups. A well-made Turkish coffee should have a very thick foam, with no coffee particles in the foam or liquid. This can be achieved only by taking care to use cold water and low heat. Otherwise, the coffee boils before the coffee can sink or the foam form. If you wait as little as 20 seconds past boiling to take the coffee off heat, you’ll achieve a homogeneous and delicious coffee, but the foam is completely lost.

Turkish coffee should be drunk slowly, with a glass of cold water alongside. The water is sipped to refresh the mouth, the better to taste the coffee. All of the coffee is poured into the cups, but it is not customary to finish the cup: The thick layer of sludgy grounds at the bottom should be left behind. The cup may then be turned over into the saucer to cool, and the patterns of the coffee grounds can be used for a kind of fortune-telling ritual called tasseography.

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Many times a mint liqueur is served with Turkish coffee, too, especially after dinner. Another traditional accompaniment is Turkish delight, a confection of starch and sugar flavored with rosewater and lemon. The drinker may add ground pistachio nuts to the coffee.

In Norway and Finland, which have the world’s highest consumption of coffee per capita, a common coffee preparation method resembles the approach that Americans call “cowboy coffee.” To make this intense potion, simply heat coarse ground coffee with water in a pot just to a boil, then let the grounds settle and pour the clear coffee to drink, filtering to remove fine grounds if you prefer. Some coffee aficionados call this the ultimate coffee preparation.

In Indonesia, you’ll find a particularly simple method of brewing coffee. Put ground coffee in a cup, pour in hot water and let it cool while the grounds sink to the bottom. This method, known as “mud coffee,” is very easy to prepare, but requires some care to avoid drinking grounds. (Particles floating on the surface of the coffee as it steeps can be banished by dribbling a small amount of cold water onto the “floaters” from the back of a spoon). If the coffee beans are not ground finely enough, the grounds will not sink.

In the Far East, coffee is often brewed with tea. In China this blend is called “yun yeung,” the characters representing the female and male Mandarin duck, a fabled fowl that is said to find a partner and mate for life.The idea is that “coffee-tea” makes a lovey-dovey match in which the flavor of each beverage blends so well with the other that the two become inseparable.

The tea mellows the coffee so there is no need for dairy products, which are not popular in the Far East because of the high incidence of lactose intolerance. This coffee-tea blend may be drunk with or without sugar.

All these preparations give a hint of the way that coffee enjoyment is internationally diversified yet similar. It is no wonder that coffee is one of the most consumed beverages in the world. So, if you are in an experimental mood, instead of plugging in the coffee maker or taking out the French press, try one of these alternative methods. It could be a very awakening coffee experience! F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 37

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BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

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Bowled over with F

Punch

ew of us think about the delicious possibilities and communal spirit of the punch bowl. My own memories of “punch” involve holidays and a nonalcoholic green lagoon of canned juice and citrus soda under a melting ice cap of fluorescent sherbet. This overly sweet concoction, spiked with alcohol or not, stands in pale contrast with the noble beginnings of punch.

In fact, the entire history of the cocktail arguably begins with punch.

Originally brought from India by the English, punch derives from the Hindu word “panch,” meaning “five” in Hindi because the first renditions of punch had five ingredients: an alcoholic base, lemon juice, sugar, water (or tea) and spices.

Punch’s popularity in the Englishspeaking world peaked over a long period from the late 1600s until the Civil War. Dave Wondrich, in his excellent new book, Imbibe!, about the life and cocktails of “Professor” Jerry Thomas (who wrote the first known bartending guide, How to Mix Drinks, in 1862), argues that punch’s popularity faded thereafter because it couldn’t keep up with the quickened pace of the Industrial Revolution.When you make a big bowl of punch, there’s an unspoken commitment to finish the job. As the demands of city life accelerated, most people no longer had the time to devote to fellowship around a bowl of punch all day.

Moreover, as tastes and individual preferences developed, a man might think it his privilege to have something different than the next fellow at the bar. The new fashion called for drinks made quickly and to individual order. In other words, the modern cocktail is a single-serving punch bowl.

Punches tend to fall into two categories along seasonal lines.There is the hot

punch bowl, a treat that the tavern or inn keeper might provide to knock off the chill before the advent of modern heat; and there is the cold punch bowl, cooled with an oversize block of floating ice, capable of refreshing the sultriest of summer days.

I have included two recipes here, one of each type.The hot punch is the Tom and Jerry, a winter favorite. It was reportedly developed as a hot variation of eggnog, and its heavily spiced aroma will put your mind in a holiday mood.The cold option is Rocky Mountain Punch, a concoction created around the 1860s. Both recipes show our forefathers’ love of a bracing drink. These are not the barely spiked, Kool-aid concoctions of a late 20th century childhood.

These two drinks epitomize the stand-ata t t e n t i o n - a n d - e n j oy - t h e - fe l l ow s h i p lubricant that the punch bowl was intended to be.

Tom and Jerry (Adapted from Dale Degroff ’s The Craft of the Cocktail.)

For the batter: 12 fresh eggs, separated (I prefer organic) 3 pounds granulated white sugar 11/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 /2 teaspoon ground cloves 1 /2 teaspoon ground allspice 2 ounces dark rum Separate the eggs. In a large bowl, beat the yolks until they are thin as water, adding the sugar slowly while beating. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff.Add the spices and rum to the yolks. Fold in the stiff whites and stir until the mixture is the consistency of a light batter. (A teaspoon of cream of tartar will help prevent the sugar from settling to the bottom of the batter.)

For the drink: 2 tablespoons of the above batter 11/2 ounces of brandy (I prefer to substitute Bourbon) 1 /2 ounce of dark rum 3 or 4 ounces of boiling water Freshly grated nutmeg for garnish Put the batter in the bottom of a mug. Add the spirits, then the hot water, and stir. Dust with nutmeg and serve. (Note: almostboiling milk may be substituted, for a richer drink. Or try my favorite, half water and half milk.)

Rocky Mountain Punch (Adapted from Dave Wondrich’s Imbibe!)

6 1 1 5

lemons, sliced quart of Jamaica rum pint Maraschino (cherry liqueur) bottles of Champagne or sparkling wine Sugar to taste (or simple syrup) You will need a large block of ice for your punch bowl. Freeze a gallon of water in a container (shape of your choice) the night before. Mix the rum and Maraschino and marinate the sliced lemons in this mixture for at least four hours. Combine with all the Champagne in a large punch bowl and taste. Depending on the sweetness of the sparkling wine, the Maraschino may have made the punch sweet enough. If you like it sweeter, add 2 ounces of sugar (or simple syrup, which will dissolve better) at a time until the sweetness is to your taste. Slide in the block of ice and enjoy. F&D

(OPPOSITE) The Tom and Jerry, a classic hot punch. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 39

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about food fish sandwich

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BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

arm and flavorful, battered and fried to a crunchy golden brown, its flesh as white as angels’ wings, slipped into a bun or lying between slices of rye bread: The fish sandwich is simple fare, but Louisvillians hold it in high esteem.

Cincinnati has its chili and Coney dogs; Philadelphia its hoagies and cheese steak sandwiches.When outsiders think of a trademark Louisville food, they might contemplate fried chicken or the Hot Brown. Most of the world is unaware of the local yen for fried fish on rye.

Visitors tend to be surprised when Louisvillians start talking about places to get a good fish sandwich.

It does seem a curious fixation for an inland city, an affection apparently not shared to the same extent elsewhere along the Ohio River.

So how did Louisville’s love affair with the fish sandwich come to pass?

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Cunningham’s fish sandwich platter

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about food fish sandwich

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Catholics, Fish Camps and Lent A number of experts we interviewed speculate that our fisheating customs grew from the city’s Catholic roots.

“There were always the Catholic fish fries with catfish and cod, as well as people with family fish camps along the river,” said Jay Denham, executive chef at Park Place on Main, Browning’s and The Jazz Factory. People would debate about it much as they discuss the finer points of barbecue, he said. Should the breading be thin or thick, fine or crunchy? Should it have a peppery or herbal seasoning? Denham, who trained at Johnson & Wells Culinary Institute in Rhode Island, remembers these debates from his younger days on a farm near the Ohio River not far from Maysville, Kentucky. “Fish is part of a person’s culture. And it’s like comfort food; you run into it everywhere.”

For many Louisville fish-sandwich lovers, Mike Linnig’s restaurant recalls the classic river fish camp of old times. Located southwest of downtown on Cane Run Road, set just over a levee from the banks of the Ohio, Mike Linnig’s is a sprawling complex that resembles a county fair on a busy summer day. Families crowd around concrete picnic tables. Loudspeakers blare food orders, and waiters hurry along gravel paths bearing aloft plates of steaming fish, frog legs, fries and onion rings piled high on large trays.

The restaurant started from humble beginnings in 1925, when Mike and Carrie Linnig started serving sandwiches out of their roadside produce stand, popularly called Mike’s Place.The couple,

both Catholic, soon added fish sandwiches to increase sales. It wasn’t long before these canny entrepreneurs expanded to include curb service and weekend entertainment as well. After a break during World War II, they reopened in 1946 and have enjoyed steady growth to this day. Today Mike Linnig’s is best known for its fish, serving thousands of customers during its midJanuary through November season.

“On our busiest days we can serve upwards to 3,000 pounds of fish,” said Bill Linnig, a third-generation family member. He said the restaurant serves nearly 10,000 fish sandwiches during an average week, an output that requires three kitchen workers on the breading line alone. “People know what they’re going to get: a generous serving with classic sides like sweet creamy coleslaw, homemade onion rings and hush puppies or fries.”

Linnig’s can accommodate 300 inside its building, and three times that many in its outdoor dining grounds with its landmark shade trees, picnic tables, small cabins and a playground for children. Years ago, the cabins were rented out as fish camps; now they can be reserved for a shaded, screened-in dining room.

The Linnigs were German-American Catholics, a community that may well have been influential in making fish sandwiches popular in Louisville.Today, between one-fifth and one-third of the city’s population is Catholic; 70 years ago that percentage was higher still. While Catholics can’t account for the entire Louisville fish phenomenon, says John Castro, executive chef at Winston’s restaurant at Sullivan University’s National Center for Hospitality Studies, they were a strong influence on the dining-out scene.

Kingfish’s fish sandwich platter

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Fish sandwich platter from Stan’s Fish Sandwich

The Catholic observance of abstinence from meat on Fridays and other “fast days,” which remained a requirement until the 1960s, had a large impact on dining practices.

Even today, many Catholics continue to avoid meat on Fridays during Lent, the pre-Easter season of penance and contemplation, a period that has long been associated with serving fish in place of meat.“It was amazing … at Hasenour’s in the early 1980s during Lent we were hand-breading and serving 500 to 1,500 pounds of cod brought in from Boston each day for lunch and dinner,” Castro said.

“Big Catholic families would come in.” They also frequented Kunz’s downtown, Mike Linnig’s and Flaherty’s, he added. “These were some of the busiest restaurants in town that were not in hotels.”

Added Lelia Gentle, co-owner with husband Stan of Stan’s Fish Sandwich in St. Matthews, “Retailers have Christmas and fish people have Lent.” And even if it’s no longer required, eating fish on Fridays is a custom that many Catholics still practice out of habit. “Since we started 30 years ago, Friday has been our big day of the week,” said Gentle. During Lent, she said, they put on a double staff on Fridays.

In Louisville, you don’t have to be Catholic to enjoy fish during Lent.The seasonal tradition seems to have turned ecumenical. Local fried-fish standouts such as Stan’s,The Fishery, Carolina Fish and Seafood Connection in St. Matthews, The Fish House, Cunningham’s and the Hill Street Fish Fry in urban neighborhoods; large operations like Kingfish and small local chains like Moby Dick, all do landoffice business during February and March.There’s no religious test required to line up for sizzling, flaky fried fish on rye or a soft roll, with sides of crunchy coleslaw, french fries or onion rings.

Kingfish built its reputation on, and continues sustained by, Louisville’s affection for cod, said Greg Wor tham, the local chain’s corporate controller. “In a typical week we will go through approximately 15,000 pieces of our thick, hand-cut cod fillets,” he said. “It was a feature of our business when it started in 1948 and, despite a more difficult market because of fishing quotas and devaluation of the dollar, we are sticking with it as long as customer demand is there.”

The Codfather Locals’ love of cod (and its whitefish cousins) may be traced in large part to savvy entrepreneur Leo Weill, who first imported Icelandic cod to the inland U.S. many years ago.

Weill came to Louisville from Cincinnati in 1922 and set up a wholesale fish operation, the Fulton Fish Market, directly across Crittenden Drive from a local outlet of Booth Fisheries. He initially sold haddock brought in by train from Lake Erie, but soon realized that a good game would be a key to success, according to his grandson, Leo Nathanson, vice president of operations for the Foreman Group, a fish brokerage and marketing company.

“He drove them crazy by stacking what were empty crates three or four high out front, and loading them into his trucks, which would then pull out,” Nathanson said.“They didn’t know the crates were simply on their way back to the rear of the building, where they’d be unloaded again.” After awhile, Booth, which had outlets in Cincinnati and Chicago, decided to close its local operation — and Leo Weill had the market to himself. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 43

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Weill’s acumen and success in the fish business led to a trip to Iceland after World War II to help that country market its cod resources in the U.S.The Icelanders were smart enough to know they needed to penetrate beyond the coasts if they were to succeed.Weill recommended they call cod “whitefish” to avoid the unpleasant associations that many had with cod liver oil, a vitamin supplement then widely administered to children by stern but loving mothers.

“My grandfather even lobbied Congress to get restrictive tariffs against foreign-caught fish removed,” Nathanson said. “Ultimately he succeeded. Later, in the 1960s, after he had imported one million pounds of cod, they flew Leo to Reykjavik and awarded him the Order of the Falcon, Iceland’s highest civilian honor.”

Nathanson jokes about how much fish he ate as a child — “Fish people don’t make any money, but they can take home all the fish that they want” — but attests to his grandfather’s drive.

“He sold to every church in town, suburban lodges, VFW posts and restaurants — anyone who was buying fish,” Nathanson said. “And with five trucks, he covered a 200-mile radius, making weekly deliveries to Cincinnati, West Virginia, Tennessee, Chicago, essentially any state that bordered Kentucky.”

Weill provided the fish when Mike Linnig got into fish sandwiches. Bill Linnig remembers how his grandfather went to Nathanson’s market with a panel pickup truck and brought back all the cod he could carry in large, flat metal tins with lids held down by metal tabs.

Weill also supplied fish and fryers to help Henry Burns and Russell Austin start the original Kingfish at 4th Street and River Road; and he assisted Bud Deeley in starting Moby Dick.

Cod fillets are “skinless, flaky and boneless, perfect for frying and baking,” Nathanson said. “It’s a fact: Louisville developed into and remains today the largest volume user of codfish per capita in the entire country.”

Frozen and Fresh Market Changes Regrettably, after pioneering Icelandic cod in Louisville and throughout the region, Weill’s Fulton Fish Market came under competitive pressure from larger restaurant suppliers and went out of business in 1984.

Around that same time, though, several local entrepreneurs were launching a business that would bring fresh fish to Louisville by air express. The Gentles were prime movers in this undertaking, as was Ken Berry of Bluefin Seafood, a wholesaler who now supplies fresh fish in the same diverse region where Weill was once the king of frozen cod.

“We started by driving trucks in straight from the docks in South Carolina,” Berry said. But improvements in commercial aircraft technology in the late 1970s changed everything. “It used to be that airlines weighed every passenger’s luggage. The new plane had significant excess capacity, which let the airlines start looking for freight revenue.This is what launched the fresh seafood business.”

Modern aviation and UPS’s local air hub now makes it possible for Louisville to have freshly caught fish as fast or faster than New York, Chicago or Atlanta. Fish that was caught yesterday can be on restaurant tables tonight, a development that has had a huge impact on Louisville dining choices — as well as new pressure 44 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

on supplies for highly prized fish.“Cod and other popular whitefish like haddock, grouper and pollack now come from and are sold worldwide,” Berry said. “And all of the major fisheries — Atlantic, Iceland, Alaska, New Zealand — are under extremely good management with strictly enforced quotas.”

Berry described the process that brings fresh fish from the ocean to your table.The fish is cleaned on fishing boats as soon as it’s pulled out of the ocean, and thrown into a 28-degree ice slush bath to bring its core temperature down to about 32 degrees before being put into finely chopped snow ice. “It can be held for two weeks this way and be as good as the one just pulled aboard,” Berry continued. “But a larger part of the business is becoming what’s called ‘twice frozen,’ where factory ships catch, clean and freeze fish in their holds for delivery to China, where it is partially thawed, processed into consistent serving cuts, and then re-frozen for delivery.Trim and end pieces are used to form patties or other shaped servings called ‘cello cod.’ ” Committed to the “fresh” end of the market, Berry has little use for such trim-formed products, many of which come prebreaded.“I believe there is a taste difference,” he said.“And labeling regulations can lessen what you’re getting for your money. For example, most people don’t realize that breaded shrimp needs to be only made up of 45 percent shrimp.” (All the rest of the weight can legally be composed of breading.)

As market demand stays strong, cod keeps rising in cost.

Berry believes quality alternatives are available.“Pacific cod is damn near as good a fish (as Atlantic cod), but at a 40 percent price differential,” he pointed out. Hoki, a New Zealand whitefish; basa, a Vietnamese catfish, and pollock and tilapia are great whitefish too, says Berry, and he believes they will become more popular.

Haddock, long pricier than cod, “is now about the same in price,” he says, “and very similar.”

In the Kitchen It is now common knowledge that the oils and nutrients in fish can be good for you. Both protein and omega-3 fatty acids support healthy joints, are part of a heart-healthy diet and may help in preventing strokes and Alzheimer’s disease, say experts.

And cautions about mercury concentrations found in high-end food chain predators like swordfish and tuna don’t apply to most whitefish.

But many Americans still feel nervous about preparing fish at home. “Eighty-two percent of all seafood in the United States is consumed outside the home,” said Berry. Lelia Gentle says she’s also observed “a big fish fear factor” that often keeps people from cooking it in their own kitchens.

“If somebody has had one bad experience with fish, they are afraid they might repeat it,” Gentle said.“Some say they don’t want to smell up the house, or that they just don’t like handling fish.”

In truth, though, it’s a simple process to duplicate both the crunch and flavor of restaurant fare, and avoid smoking oil, by following a few simple guidelines.

“Perhaps the two most important rules are to get a good product — it has to be clean, glistening white and have a clean smell — and don’t overcook it,” Gentle said. “No matter how much you pay for a good piece of fish, if you overcook it and dry it out, you are never going to get your money’s worth.”

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Browning’s Executive Chef Jay Denham created a souped-up fish sandwich for this photo. Fresh grouper is fried in Helles lager beer batter and served on brioche, dressed with jumbo lump crab salad, red cabbage, chervil and remoulade. It was such a success that Denham has added it to the menu at Browning’s. We are honored that he chose to name the dish the “D.B.” fish sandwich in memory of Food & Dining’s Vice President, Daniel Boyle, who died in November.

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A whole fish should look as if it was just pulled from the water Winston’s John Castro says one should feel free to — it should have bright eyes, shiny skin without bruises, and firm experiment with taste enhancements by changing seasonings, flesh. Fish fillets should also be firm to the touch and without using different coating ingredients or substituting buttermilk or discoloration. beer for milk.

The next tip is to buy only as much as you will cook and eat.

“A 50/50 blend of seasoned flour and instant potato flakes or Fish does not keep well as leftovers. crushed potato chips will give you pretty amazing results,” Castro “Cod right out of the water and kept on ice at 32 degrees said. “Doing the same with Wheateena gives you a strangely under good conditions will be good for up to 21 days,” Gentle crunchy coating. Flour is most often used in the Northern U.S., said.“But you have to factor in processing, packing, and trucking to while Southerners like cornmeal, which goes well with catfish, and from the airport, all before it gets into the chill case. Don’t tilapia and other pond-raised fish in warmer climates. think you have forever. Using “Batters will give you a your purchase within two to really crisp outer coating but four days is best.” can retain more oil,” Castro Adequate thawing is one continued. “If you use beer, key to handling frozen fish. “If which people either like or it’s a pre-breaded portion, you they don’t, keep it a light may cook it immediately, pilsner and not something following package instructoo strong. Remember, you’re tions,” Gentle said. The better looking to enhance the flavor selections are not preof the fish, not dominate it.” breaded, though, and these Clean oil is a must. “Your do best when thawed overoil or grease needs to be night or for a day in the pristine,” Castro said. “Otherrefrigerator. Quicker thawing, wise it will transfer unwanted Gentle said, will ruin the flavors into your fish coating texture of the fish. Even if and affect the result.” you’re in a hurry, don’t microWhen sauteing lightly wave the fish, she warns. dredged fish, a few tableImmerse the fish in cold spoons of clean oil or water, changing the water shortening with a touch of several times, to thaw it as butter is plenty. Three to five gently as possible. minutes per side should be Fish live in an almost adequate for the fish to gravity-free environment due become opaque and reach to their buoyancy, and they the beginning of flakiness. move very efficiently through When pan-frying or the water. Thus, their oxygen deep-frying, the techniques demands are much lower of choice for more heavily than land animals’. With much breaded fish, use oil at 350 smaller amounts of oxygendegrees for thick fillets and carr ying myoglobin, their 365 degrees for thinner ones flesh is light and translucent. or smaller pieces. Don’t Fish also have less conneccrowd the pan. If your oil is tive tissue and fat than meat, too hot when cooking a large so handle it gently before, piece of fish, the crust will during, and after cooking. brown and be done before Whether you pan-fry or Winston’s Chef John Castro offers his version of the classic: Batter-dipped the fish is cooked through. deep-fry your fish, final prepa- fried cod is sandwiched on marbled rye with lettuce, spinach and basil Alternatively, if your oil is ration allows several options. lime dressing. It is accompanied by a trio of sauces: banana pepper tartar, too cold, you will get an A classic “bound breading,” sweet chili and savory lemon curd. unpalatable greasy coating, for instance, is a quick dredge in seasoned flour followed by an egg not a golden-brown and delicious crust. wash and then by a layer of bread crumbs or cornmeal mixture Fry fish for about three or four minutes per side; remove from for a crunchy coating. the oil when it’s golden brown. Drain on paper towels before “There is a whole gamut of coating mixes in the store, or you serving with your favorite accompaniment of salad or coleslaw, a can just use seasoned flour,” Gentle said. “First pat dry your fillets, starch and tartar sauce or remoulade. season them and dip them in the flour mixture. If you want a thicker Remember, fish is simple food, and it has served mankind for coating, then dip the fillet in a mix of milk and one beaten egg and centuries. When it’s prepared right, it’s as divine as the loaves and then roll it in cornmeal, breadcrumbs or a commercial mixture.” the fishes. F&D 46 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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T HE F RIDAY F ISH F RY

by Paul Najjar

You’re driving through town on a chilly, gray Friday in the bleak days of late winter. Just about the time you start feeling hungry for dinner, you notice a portable sign standing proud outside a neighborhood Catholic church: Fish Fry Friday! Don’t think of it as winter. Think of it as Lent. There’s no better time in this town to enjoy an old-fashioned fish fry.

From the miracle of the loaves and the fishes to the ancient Greek fish symbol representing Christ, Catholics and fish enjoy a historic connection. So it’s no surprise that many Catholic parishes host community fish fries on the five Fridays before Holy Week.

Social and culinary highlights of the Lenten period of symbolic fast and abstinence, fish fries gather the community while raising money for parish needs that may range from school books and teacher salaries to church repairs and renovation.Thus the simple logic behind the Catholic fish fry.

Open to the public, parish fish fries are social events as well as fund-raisers, and they are meant to be fun.

Just about everyone has a favorite fish fry, but don’t overlook the fun of discovering a new one.Two of my favorites are the fish fries at St. Augustine (1310 W. Broadway in the near West End) and St. Francis of Assisi (1960 Bardstown Road in the Highlands).

St. Augustine wins my vote as best of the bunch, offering excellent food and a communal feel that’s hard to beat. Bring your patience:You’ll almost certainly have to wait in a very long line for your lunch. But you’ll be hard-pressed to find better fish, sides or desserts anywhere.

Over at St. Francis of Assisi, the fish fry sometimes feels like a homecoming. A mix of young and old make the St. Francis cafeteria a bustling, fun place to enjoy dinner. Just remember to go early, or plan to wait 15 to 30 minutes before you order and eat.

With five Friday fries scheduled at most parishes during Lent, you can stay loyal to your favorite one week, then venture out to try someplace new the next.The long lines are worth the wait and the sense of community will make you feel right at home.

Thanks to the Archdiocese of Louisville for this hot-off-thepress list of Catholic church fish fries throughout the diocese for 2008.Try one or try a few.

Parish

A dd re s s

Phone

D a t e s (Fridays only, unless indicated)

Ascension Cathedral of the Assumption Guardian Angels Holy Trinity Immaculate Conception Mother of Good Counsel Our Lady Our Lady of Lourdes Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Our Mother of Sorrows SS. Simon & Jude St. Agnes St. Albert the Great St. Aloysius (Pewee Valley) St. Anthony (Clarksville) St. Athanasius St. Augustine St. Barnabas St. Bernard St. Denis St. Edward St. Elizabeth Ann Seton St. Francis of Assisi St. Gabriel St. James St. Jerome St. Joseph St. Lawrence St. Leonard St. Margaret Mary St. Martin de Porres St. Mary St. Michael St. Monica, Bardstown St. Pius X St. Raphael St. Rita St. Stephen Martyr St.Thomas More

4600 Lynnbrook Dr. 433 S. 5th St. 6000 Preston Hwy. 501 Cherrywood Rd. 502 N. 5th St. (LaGrange) 8509 Westport Rd. 3511 Rudd Ave. 508 Breckenridge Ln. 5505 New Cut Rd. 747 Harrison Ave. 4335 Hazlewood Ave. 1920 Newburg Rd. 1395 Girard Dr. 212 Mount Mercy Dr. 316 N. Sherwood Ave. 5915 Outer Loop 1310 W. Broadway 3042 Hikes Ln. 7500 Tangelo Dr. 4205 Cane Run Rd. 9610 Sue Helen Dr. 11501 Maple Way 1960 Bardstown Rd. 5505 Bardstown Rd. 1826 Edenside Ave. 903 Fairdale Rd. 1406 E. Washington St. 1925 Lewiston Dr. 440 Zorn Ave. 7813 Shelbyville Rd. 3112 W. Broadway 299 Crestwood Ln. 3705 Stone Lakes Dr. 407 S.Third St. 3521 Goldsmith Ln. 2141 Lancashire Ave. 8710 Preston Hwy. 2931 Pindell Ave. 6105 S.Third St.

451-3860 582-2971 968-5421 897-5207 222-0255 425-2210 776-4666 896-0241 366-5651 637-7442 368-4887 451-2220 425-1804 241-0053 282-2290 969-2345 584-4602 459-4251 239-5178 448-2005 266-7004 969-0004 456-6394 239-5481 451-1420 363-9929 583-7401 448-2122 897-2595 426-1588 778-1118 957-3385 266-5611 348-5250 451-9300 458-2500 969-4580 635-5813 366-1463

Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:30 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 21, 11:30 am - 1:00 pm Jan. 18 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:30 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 8:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - out of fish Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:30 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - Feb. 29, 4:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 8 - 29 & March 14, 5:00 pm - out of fish Feb. 8 - March 21, 4:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 21, 11:00 am - 6:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 1 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 7:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:30 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 1 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 7- 29 (Thur. & Fri.) 11:30-1:30pm & 4:30-7:30pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:30 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 7, 5:30 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 11:00 am - 5:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 4:00 pm - 7:00 pm Feb. 8 - April 6, 11-1:00 (carry-out only); 5:00-7:30pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm Feb. 8 - March 14, 11:00am-1:00pm & 5:00-8:00pm Feb. 1 - March 14, 4:30 pm - 7:30 pm Feb. 8 - March 21, 5:00 pm - 8:00 pm www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 47

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BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

A diner’s guide to

Wine with Fish One of the best things about wine is the way it goes so well with food.

A great wine-and-food combination can make flavors sing, enhancing our enjoyment of both what’s on our plate and what’s in our glass.

One of the worst things about wine is that it gets so gosh darn complicated trying to remember what works with what. Who wants to have to take a reference book to dinner so you can look up an appropriate tasteful match?

Fortunately, the basic principles are simple: The old rule of thumb,“red wine with red meat, white wine for white meat,” works surprisingly well, subject to the understanding that white “meat” covers poultry and fish. Red wine is usually relatively robust and full-bodied, making it a comfortable partner with the rich, meaty flavors of steaks, roast beef or lamb. White wine tends to be crisp and tart, as natural a companion with fish as a squirt of lemon.

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That part’s easy. But take the next step, and things start to get a little more complicated. Faced with a restaurant menu and a complicated wine list, the challenge of picking just the right wine to go with a specific fish course can be daunting indeed. Light and crisp wine or rich and buttery? Bone-dry or slightly sweet? And how about those rare but delicious exceptions that call out for a red wine with fish?

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Let’s make things simple: Here’s Food & Dining’s handy-dandy Diners Guide to Wine With Fish. We’ve come up with a couple of dozen seafood and fish selections and paired them with my suggestions for wine types to match, along with very brief observations about why a particular pairing works. Memorize it, or better yet, clip this column, fold it and put it in your wallet, and you’re good to go. Go eat fish, I mean.

are well-matched to this oily, flavorful fish, but the popular red Pinot Noir, Burgundy red or domestic, makes a persuasive argument for red wine with fish.

Tuna Fresh ahi tuna and Pinot Noir is another combination made in heaven, but don’t overlook the possibility of pairing seared, sushi-grade tuna with a crisp, dry Provence-style rosé.

At the Sushi Bar The wide variety of fish and seafood and other bite-size goodies that comprise sushi call for a beverage that will bridge many flavors. Consider sparkling wine, and don’t overlook the sake solution.

Fin Fish As we go from light and delicate to rich and dark species, it’s not surprising that our wine choices move up the ladder in body and power to match.

Sole This delicate fish calls for a crisp, bone-dry white wine that’s subtle but never insipid. The original Chablis from France — actually a non-oaky Chardonnay from a northern outpost of Burgundy — is the perfect high-end choice. An un-oaked California Chardonnay will work well, too, or an acidic Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc from France’s Loire Valley.

Shellfish Lobster Steamed lobster, rich and sweet, with drawn butter for dipping. Full-bodied White Burgundy or not-quite-dry, buttery New World Chardonnay to go with it. Any questions?

Cod

Oysters

After a century of declining resources, this popular whitefish of the North Atlantic is coming back, although environmentalists remain wary about overfishing. For cod and similar whitefish such as scrod, perch or haddock, take a small step up the richness ladder to more full-flavored White Burgundy or buttery-style California Chardonnay. Fruit-forward New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is another winner in this category. With your fried whitefish between a couple of slices of rye, beer is my choice. Not mass-market swill, however, but a fine local microbrew or quality import.

On the half-shell, the perfect match is crisp, minerally Muscadet from the Loire Valley; alternatively, Sauvignon Blanc is fine.

Swordfish

Crab

“The veal of the sea,” swordfish is fine with the more robust Chardonnays listed for cod; better still, try it with rich whites from Southern Italy — Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino or Falanghina — or Provence whites and their California cousins made from Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier grapes.

Pinot Gris or the Eastern U.S. Seyval Blanc with whole fresh crabs; crab cakes invite a rich Chardonnay … or a hoppy American Pale Ale.

Salmon Full-bodied, unctuous Pinot Gris from Alsace or bolder-style Pinot Gris from Oregon (but not the featherweight Pinot Grigio)

Shrimp In general, fuller-bodied Chardonnay, off-dry Riesling or other richer-style white; a good microbrewery beer makes sense with fried shrimp, and crisp Italian white such as Verdicchio for shrimp pasta dishes.

Clams and Mussels Head to the Iberian peninsula for Spanish Albariño or Portuguese Vinho Verde to go with clams and shellfish in general; dark, earthy mussels, especially in Italian preparations, will shine with a tart, lighter red such as a simple Chianti. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 49

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BY RON JOHNSON | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

t’s easy to forget that one of America’s most majestic cities is just a short drive from Louisville. Chicago may be known as the Second City, but it rivals New York’s No.1 status as a great weekend destination.

It is a diverse and eclectic city, yet it maintains a sense of comfort in its solid Midwestern roots. Once the home to the largest population of eastern European immigrants in the country, Chicago now boasts the most vibrant Latin American immigrant community in the Midwest. Chicago’s enviable culinary tradition spans decades and runs the gamut from over-the-top steakhouses to tiny ethnic eateries tucked away in neighborhoods where English is rarely heard or spoken.

Given Chicago’s sprawling size and its multitude of distinct and diverse neighborhoods it is virtually impossible to do it all in a single trip. A better plan is to focus on a specific neighborhood, or two, and mine it for all it’s worth. You’re bound to turn up more than a few culinary gems in the process. Current hot spots include the Loop,West Loop, Near North, Gold Coast, Wicker Park, Bucktown and Evanston, to name a few.

In the Loop and West Loop, the hottest ticket in town is Avec. Opened 50 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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next door to the already well-established Blackbird by the same owners, Avec goes for a more bohemian and relaxed feel, with rustic wood interior and large communal tables. The menu focuses on small plates and expertly crafted dishes made from the best ingredients. The ver y best of these spend some time in the wood-burning oven that forms a focal point behind the long bar.

The wine list is well chosen and affordable, but more important, it is teeming with bythe-glass selections, perfect for matching various wines with the myriad small plates that arrive at the table.

Blackbird might be the upscale, finedining partner of the duo, but it is by no means any less cutting-edge or eclectic when it comes to cuisine. There is no mistaking that Blackbird is still on the hot list for Chicago’s trend setters. The interior is dressed in white, and the diners are dressed in black. The food is superb, expensive, and guarantees a return visit. It’s no wonder that this place has stayed high on every Chicago dining critic’s list.

Cross the Chicago River from the Loop to the Near North and Magnificent Mile, and dining options increase exponentially. A visitor could spend a month in

this neighborhood alone and not get around to every restaurant. Because this is tourist-rich environment, you’ll find plenty of mediocre and mass-market restaurants that can be skipped. Instead, focus your energy and your budget on seeking out the Chicago dining landmarks and institutions.

A good start would be Al’s for an Italian beef sandwich. If you order it “wet,” make sure to get extra napkins. If pizza is on your radar, both of the original Chicago style pizzerias are here, as well as some worthy competition. Pizzeria Uno and Due are less than a block apart, and both feature similar, traditional Chicago deep-dish pie with crunchy cornmeal crust. For those seeking an alternative, Geno’s and Lou Malnati’s both offer similar pizza with a slightly less toothsome and more buttery crust.

It’s hard to fathom a visit to Chicago without a meal at one of Rick Bayless’ exemplary restaurants. Few chefs in the country saw the importance and tradition of serious regional Mexican cooking back when Bayless made it his life’s work 20 years ago. Now, no one can deny the relevance of this cuisine, and the long lines at his side-by-side Frontera Grill and Topolobampo attest that it’s wildly popular

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as well. While neither restaurant is fairly classified as inexpensive, Frontera Grill is the more casual of the two. Both require reservations or patience for a lengthy wait for a table, but patient diners will be rewarded with über-authentic Mexican cuisine that spans all of the regions. These are the restaurants for those who know or want to discover that the world of Mexican food goes far beyond the familiar Tex-Mex combination platter.

Also in the Magnificent Mile, but nearing the lakefront Gold Coast, is the extremely upscale Avenues in the Peninsula Hotel on Michigan Avenue.

While Charlie Trotter’s restaurant has earned justifiable national recognition for its extensive tasting menus and painstaking attention to detail, Avenues is the new kid on the block, and its food is just as new and trendy. The prices are stratospheric and the clientele is well-heeled, so brace yourself for the check that comes at the end of the meal. For those looking to blow the budget in the same neighborhood, Tru and Spiaggia also offer stellar cuisine at prices to match. These are both serious special-occasion restaurants. Tru was formerly the showcase of super-chef

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couple Rick Tramonto and Gail Gand. Even though they have both moved on to a new venture,Tru remains one of the truly great restaurants in Chicago. Spiaggia is the choice for those seeking a slightly more conventional meal. The cuisine is the kind of Italian fine dining that used to be a hallmark in every great city, and the service is up to the fare.

For my money, a visitor to Chicago simply can’t beat Gibson’s Steakhouse and Hugo’s Frog Bar in the heart of the Gold Coast. Hugo’s is a classic fish joint, featuring a solid list of fresh catches of the day in a variety of classic and familiar preparations.

This is the place to sit down to a dozen freshly shucked oysters on the half shell or a steaming bowl of bisque or chowder.

Next door, Gibson’s is the two-fisted steakhouse that one would expect to find in a broad-shouldered city like Chicago. It’s the kind of place where you might spot a goldfish swimming in a martini glass, while serving trays are borne through the dining room groaning under the weight of dryaged prime steaks. Men throw their neckties over their shoulders to get them out of the way while dining, and women have been known to tuck napkins into their sequined gowns before digging into the juicy slabs of meat. Everyone adores the seeand-be-seen atmosphere that invariably features a celebrity sighting or two.

No trip to Chicago would be complete without a stop at the Maxwell Street Market just south of the Loop. This is the best way for visitors to get a taste of the large and growing multi-national Latino community that has built its home in Chicago. Featuring more than 100 vendors from every corner of Latin America and Mexico, the Maxwell Street Market is just as good a place to buy ingredients and trinkets as it is for grazing all day on the ethnic delicacies. There is ample parking, and the neighborhood around the market is experiencing a re-birth due to the influx of commerce.

Much is made of the various museums, sporting events, and cultural activities that Chicago has to offer, but please don’t let any of those worthy distractions force you to skip a meal. In a city with restaurants as great as Chicago, you will regret it if you miss a single chance. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 51

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recipes top chef recipes

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

One-Pot Meals T

oday let us praise the one-pot meal: Known and celebrated around the world, from the “red-cooked” dishes of China and the noodle bowls of Japan and Southeast Asia to Western Europe’s soups and stews, dinner in a single pot is typically hearty, comfort fare that takes us back to our gastronomic roots.

One-pot cookery is a treat for the cook, too, for once you’ve done the prep work, the rest is a breeze, with only one cooking vessel to attend … and one pot to wash.

In this issue Food & Dining features four robust dinner-in-a-pot dishes from Sullivan University chefs, who reached back into their own family heritage for inspiration. Sullivan Chef-Instructor Albert W.A. Schmid, who grew up in Texas and New Orleans, offers spicy Cajun jambalaya and gumbo from the South Louisiana tradition.

Glen Bell, sous chef at Sullivan’s cafeteria, A La Carte, gifts us with a Cuban black-bean soup that’s one of his wife’s favorites, and a comforting, long-simmered beef stew that he built on his mother’s old family recipe.

Schmid, who came to Louisville and to Sullivan nine years ago from a chef ’s post at Northwest Missouri State University in Maryville, Missouri, teaches a Sullivan class in “gastronomic tourism,” which focuses on regional dishes like Louisville’s Hot Brown and Kentucky burgoo.

Indeed, just as Appalachian families would throw venison, squirrel and other game into the burgoo pot, he said, Cajuns weren’t shy about cooking up alligator or even nutria rat, a swamp rodent of the bayous. This is poor-folks food, forced by economic necessity but turned into good eats through kitchen wisdom.

Jambalaya, in similar fashion, is a traditional Cajun rice dish that makes no-waste use of a week’s leftovers. Schmid recalls hearing Cajun Chef Paul Prudhomme describe jambalaya as “a leftover pot: A family might have ham on Monday, shrimp on Tuesday, chicken on Wednesday; Thursday something else, and then, on Friday, you’d throw whatever was left in the refrigerator into the pot with rice and tomatoes, and you have jambalaya.”

Chef Schmid’s Vegetable Shrimp Gumbo

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Chef Schmid’s Jambalaya

Chef Bell’s Beef Stew

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Chef Bell, a Louisville native who served in the Army — but not as a cook — found his culinary career after retiring from military service. He enrolled in Sullivan as a student and then stayed on as a chef.

Black bean soup is a Cuban specialty, carrying multi-ethnic influences from Cuba’s Spanish, African and native heritages, but Bell said it has become a standard in his household ever since his brother-in-law introduced it to Bell and his wife in a hotel dining room a decade ago. “We enjoyed it and have been making it ever since.”

Bell said his stew recipe is a dish that Mom literally used to make. “It’s nice and hearty on a cold winter day. Any time I wanted to make it, I would call my mother and ask what she put in it; as I went along I adapted it to my own taste, but mostly this is what she made.”

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Chef Glen Bell

Beef Stew (SERVES 4) 11/4 pounds stewing beef, cubed 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 /4 cup all-purpose flour 2 cups beef broth 2 pounds potatoes, diced medium 3 carrots, diced medium 3 stalks celery, diced medium 2 yellow onions, peeled and diced 2 cloves garlic, minced

1. Heat the oil in a dutch oven or deep, heavy skillet and sauté the beef until it is well browned.

2. Add the flour and stir until the meat is coated.

3. Pour in the beef broth and bring to a simmer. Peel and dice the potatoes, carrots, celery, onion and garlic.

4. Simmer over low heat for three full hours.

Black Bean Soup (SERVES 4) 1 /2 cup diced bacon 1 /2 onion, diced small 1 /2 cup celery, diced small 1 tablespoon garlic, minced 1 ounce jalapeño peppers, minced 2 cans black beans with their juice 2 cups chicken stock

Chef Bell’s Black Bean Soup

54 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 /2 cup fresh tomato, peeled, seeded and diced Salt Black pepper 1. “Sweat” the bacon by cooking it over low heat in a large stock pot until its fat has been rendered. Chop the onions, add them to the pot, and sauté until they are translucent.

2. Chop the celery, garlic, and jalapeño, add them to the pot, and cook over medium heat until soft.

3. Add the black beans and their juice and the chicken stock. Season with the cumin and chili powder. Peel, seed and dice the tomatoes and add them to the mix.

4. Simmer until the beans are cooked.

Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Chef Albert W.A. Schmid

Jambalaya (SERVES 4) 1 yellow onion 1 red onion 4 tablespoons butter 2 cups tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced 2 ounces tomato paste 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 pieces celery, diced 1 /4 green pepper, diced 1 teaspoon fresh parsley, chopped 1 /2 teaspoon thyme 3 whole cloves 1 pound boiled ham, diced 1 pound beef sausage, sliced 1 pound shrimp, boiled and peeled 4 cups cooked rice Salt Black pepper Cayenne pepper 1. Chop both onions and sauté them in

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Page 55

the butter over medium-high heat for five minutes, until the onions soften and begin to brown.

Peel, seed and dice the tomatoes (or use canned product). Add the tomatoes and paste to the browning onions and continue to cook.

Chop the garlic, celery, bell peppers and parsley; add these vegetables and the thyme and cloves. Cook for 30 minutes more, stirring often.

Dice the ham and slice the sausage.

Cook for an additional 5 minutes.

Stir in the boiled and peeled shrimp and cook for a few moments, just until warmed through, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the rice and season to taste with salt, black and cayenne pepper. Cook until hot.

Vegetable Shrimp Gumbo (SERVES 4) 2 large onions, chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 large eggplant, peeled and diced 3 green bell peppers, seeded and diced 1 /2 pound okra, sliced 2 cups tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced 3 pieces bacon, cooked and chopped 1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon sugar 5 cups chicken stock Salt Black pepper Water to cover 1 pound cooked shrimp 1. Peel and chop the onions and garlic.

Peel and chop the eggplant. Seed and chop the bell peppers. Slice the okra.

Peel, seed and dice the tomatoes. Cook and chop the bacon.

2. Melt the butter over medium-high heat in a pot. Cook the onions and garlic in it until they are soft. Add the eggplant, green bell peppers, okra and tomatoes.

3. Add the sugar, bacon, salt, and chicken stock, and additional water to cover all the ingredients if needed.

4. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, stirring often.

5. Add the cooked shrimp. Simmer 5-10 more minutes. Serve over rice. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 55

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CUISINE STYLES

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX

dining guide

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ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLL OWED

BY THE P AGE NUMBER OF IT S REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE S TYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

[ ]

DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

RESTAURANT

PAGE #

AFRICAN 75 ASIAN/CHINESE 75 ASIAN/FILIPINO 76 ASIAN/JAPANESE 76 ASIAN/KOREAN 77 ASIAN/THAI 78 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 78 BAR & GRILL 74 BARBECUE 73 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 63 CAFÉS 6 4 CAFETERIAS 69 CAJUN/CREOLE 80 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 80 CASUAL DINING 66 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 70 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 78 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 78 EUROPEAN/IRISH 78 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 78 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 79 FINE DINING 60 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 68 INDIAN 79 MEXICAN 80 MICROBREWERIES 75 MIDDLE EASTERN 79 PIZZA 70 SANDWICH/DELI 72 SEAFOOD 65 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 81 STEAKHOUSE 66 UPSCALE CASUAL 61 56 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 75 19th Green Pub & Grill 74 211 Clover Lane 60 60 West Bistro 61 610 Magnolia 60 8 China Buffet 75 A Nice Restaurant 66 A Taste of China 75 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Al Watan 79 Alexander’s Pizzeria 70 Amazing Grace Deli 72 Amerigo 78 Amici´ 78 Angelina’s Café 78 Angie’s Café 64 Angilo’s Pizza 70 Angio’s Restaurant 70 Ann’s by the River 69 Annie Café 78 Annie’s Pizza 70 Another Place 72 Anytimes 66 Applebee’s 66 Arirang 77 Arni’s Pizza 70 Aroma Café 64 Artemisia 61 Asian Buffet 75 Asiatique 61 Atomic Saucer 81 Atrium Café 63 August Moon 75 Austin’s 61 Avalon 61 Babby’s Steakhouse 66 Backyard Burger 72 Bake’s Barbeque 73 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 75 Bank Shot Billiards 72 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 68 Basa Modern Vietnamese 61 Baxter Station 63 Bazos Mexican Grill 80 Bean Street Café 81 Bearno’s Pizza 70 Beef O’Brady’s 74 Behar Café 78 Bendoya Sushi Bar 76 Bentley’s Sports Grille 74 Big Al’s Beeritaville 74 Big Dave’s Outpost 74 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 68 Big Willie’s Pizza Pub 70 Bistro 301 63 Blimpie’s Subs 72 BLU Mediterranean Grille 61 Blue Dog Bakery 64 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 64 Blue Mule Sports Café 74 Bluegrass Bistro 63 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 75 Bonefish Grill 65 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 73 Bosna-Mak 78 Bountiful Bread Bakery Café 64 Bourbons Bistro 63 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 73 Bravo!

61 Breadworks 81 Brendans 78 Bristol Bar & Grille 61 Brix Wine Bar 63 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 74 Browning’s Brewery 75 Bruno’s Pizza 70 Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub 70

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Desserts/Bakery 16 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 5 European/Italian 1 European/Italian 5 Cafés 3 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 7 Casual Dining [9] Asian/Korean 9 Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Coffee House 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6 Barbecue 13 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3 Coffee House 14 Pizza [14] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 6 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Microbreweries 1, 3 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 6, 8, 9 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10, 16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Bar & Grill 5 Microbreweries 1 Pizza 14 Pizza 12

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Buca Di Beppo 78 Buck’s 60 Buckhead Mountain Grill 66 Buffalo Madison Coffee Co. 81 Buffalo Wild Wings 74 Bulldog Café 64 The Butterfly Garden Café 64 Café 360 79 Café Fraiche 64 Café J 64 Café Lou Lou 64 Café Magnolia 67 Café Metro 60 Café Mimosa 78 Caffe Classico 81 California Pizza Kitchen 67 Camille’s Sidewalk Café 64 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 80 Captain’s Quarters 67 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 67 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 65 Carolyn’s 68 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 78 Cat Box Deli 72 Caviar Japanese Rest.

61 Champions Grill 67 Champion’s Sports Rest. 74 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 74 Check’s Café 68 Cheddar Box Café 64 Cheddar’s Casual Café 67 Cheesecake Factory 61 Chez Seneba African 75 Chicago Gyro 72 Chick Inn 67 The Chicken House 68 Chicken King 69 Chili’s 67 China 1 75 China Buffet 75 China Castle 75 China Garden 75 China Inn 75 China King 75 China Sea Buffet 75 Chinese Chef 75 Chinese Express 75 Chong Garden 75 Chopsticks 75 Chopsticks House 75 Chrisanta’s Café 64 Chung King 75 Ciano’s 72 Cici’s 70 City Café 64 City Wok 75 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 73 Clarksville Seafood 65 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 70 Club Grotto 62 Coach Lamp 62 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Coffee Treat Café 81 Come Back Inn 78 Connor’s Place 74 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 60 Corner Café 62 Cottage Café 69 Cottage Inn 69 Crave Café & Catering 64 Cravings a la Carte 69 Crystal Chinese 75 Cuba Libre 80 Culver’s 67 Cumberland Brews 75 Cunningham’s 67 Cyclers Café 64 Danish Express 72 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 70 DaVinci by Lentini’s 78 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 79 Del Frisco’s 66 Delta Restaurant 74 Derby Café 64 Derby City Espresso 81 Derby Dinner Playhouse 70 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 72 Diamond Pub & Billiards 74 Dinner Is Done 69 Dino’s Down to Lunch 72 Ditto’s Grill 64

MAP #

European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 4, 12, 16 Coffee House 14, 15 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Cafés 12 Cafés 2 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Casual Dining 5 Cafés 6 Mexican 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee House 14 Coffee House 1 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Bar & Grill 14 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban 14 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 European/Italian 5 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Coffee House 1 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 3 Home Style/Southern 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2

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Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 Djuli 78 European/Bosnian 12 Dmitri’s Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 69 Home Style/Southern 1 Domino’s Pizza 70 Pizza [20] Don Pablos 80 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 72 Sandwich/Deli 1,3, 7, 9 Double Dragon 75 Asian/Chinese 2,3 Double Dragon II 75 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 75 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Dragon Garden 75 Asian/Chinese 2 Dublin’s Cellar 74 Bar & Grill 2 Dutch’s Tavern 74 Bar & Grill 3 Dynasty Buffet 75 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 75 Asian/Chinese 13 Eggroll Machine 75 Asian/Chinese 2 El Caporal 80 Mexican 4,6,12,15 El Mundo 80 Mexican 2 El Nopal 80 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12 El Nopalito 80 Mexican 2, 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 80 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 80 Mexican 13 El Tarasco 80 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 80 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 75 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 75 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 60 Fine Dining 1 Equus 60 Fine Dining 3 Erika’s German Rest.

78 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 64 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 80 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Eva Mae’s Creekside 67 Casual Dining 7 Expressions of You 81 Coffee House 7 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 73 Barbecue 6, 15 Fast Break Pizza 70 Pizza 8 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 70 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 9 Federal Hill 64 Cafés 14 Feed Bag Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 Ferd Grisanti 78 European/Italian 6 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 80 Mexican 8 Fifth Quarter 66 Steakhouse 12 Finley’s BBQ 73 Barbecue 1 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 73 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 First Wok 76 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 65 Seafood 2 The Fishery 65 Seafood 3 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 74 Bar & Grill 1 Flanigans Ale House 74 Bar & Grill 2 Fork in the Road 69 Home Style/Southern 13 Fountain Room 67 Casual Dining 1 Four King’s Café 74 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 74 Bar & Grill 3 Frank’s Steak House 66 Steakhouse 5, 16 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli 72 Sandwich/Deli 7 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 70 Pizza 1 Frolio’s Pizza 70 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 69 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 76 Asian/Japanese 8 Gasthaus 78 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 67 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 69 Home Style/Southern 2 Germantown Café 64 Cafés 1 Gerstle’s Place 74 Bar & Grill 3 Golden Buddha 76 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 69 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 76 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 76 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 69 Home Style/Southern 8 Granville Inn 74 Bar & Grill 1 Grape Leaf 79 Middle Eastern 2 Grapevine Pantry 64 Cafés 9 Great American Grill 74 Bar & Grill 12 Great Wall 76 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 76 Asian/Chinese 1 Gyro Café 79 Middle Eastern 2 Hall’s Cafeteria 69 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 76 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy Dragon 76 Asian/Chinese 1 Hard Rock Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Havana Rumba 80 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Hazelwood Restaurant 69 Home Style/Southern 13 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Coffee House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Hero’s New York Pizza Pub 70 Pizza 6 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Coffee House 1, 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Hill Street Fish Fry 65 Seafood 1 Hitching Post Inn 74 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Coffee House 14 Hometown Buffet 69 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 Hometown Pizza 70 Pizza 7, 9 Honeybaked Café 72 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 15 Hong Kong Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 76 Asian/Chinese 12 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 57

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Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 74 Hooters 67 Hot Dog Heaven 72 Howl at the Moon 70 Hunan Wok 76 Ice Breakers 74 Ichiban Samurai 76 IHOP 67 Incredible Dave’s 70 Indi’s Restaurant 69 India Palace 79 Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub 75 Intermezzo American Café 62 The Irish Rover 78 Iroquois Pizza 70 Islamorada Fish Co. 65 J. Alexander’s 62 J. Graham’s Café 64 J. Gumbo’s 80 J. Harrods 62 Jack Fry’s 62 Jack’s Lounge 64 Jade Garden Buffet 76 Jade Palace 76 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 75 Jane’s Cafeteria 69 Janie’s Café 69 Jarfi’s at Mellwood 67 Jasmine 76 Jason’s Deli 72 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 70 Jazz Factory 64 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 66 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 64 Jersey Mike’s Subs 72 Jersey’s Café 75 Jessie’s Restaurant 69 Jimbo’s BBQ 73 Jimmy and Richie’s 75 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 72 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 70 Joe Huber Restaurant 70 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 65 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 80 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 67 John E’s 62 JoJo’s Fish Market 66 JP’s Pub & Grub 76 Juanita’s Burger Boy 72 Jucy’s Smokehouse 73 Juke Box 67 Jumbo Buffet 76 Just Fresh Bakery & Café 72 Kaelin’s Restaurant 67 Kansai Japanese Rest.

76 Karem’s Grill & Pub 67 Karma Café 67 Kashmir Indian 79 Kayrouz Café 64 Kentucky BBQ Co. 74 Kern’s Korner 67 Kimi’s Asian Bistro 76 King Buffet 76 King Wok 76 Kingfish 66 Kings Fast Food 69 King’s Fried Chicken 69 Kobe Japanese Steak 77 Koreana II 77 KT’s 62 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 64 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 79 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 1325 78 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Tapatia 80 La Vida Java Coffee Co. 81 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 70 Le Relais 60 Lee’s Korean 77 Legend’s 66 Lemongrass Café 78 Lentini’s 78 Liang’s Café 76 The Lighthouse 75 Lilly’s 60 Limestone 60 Ling Ling 76 Little Caesar’s Pizza 70 Little Chef 72 Liu’s Garden 76 Logan’s Roadhouse 66

11:33 PM

MAP #

Bar & Grill 12 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Bar & Grill 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Casual Dining 15 Entertainment Dining 8 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Bar & Grill 7 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Seafood 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 1, 2,5, 6, 8,12,13 Upscale Casual 10 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Cafeterias 14 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 9 Sandwich/Deli 5 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Bar & Grill 5 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Bar & Grill 11 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 15 Casual Dining 8 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Barbecue 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 6 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 2 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 8, 12 Mexican 14 Mexican 2 Coffee House 7 Cafeterias 14 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 3, 9 European/Italian 2 Asian/Chinese 8 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Fine Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15

58 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Longino’s Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Los Indios Mexicano Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Macca’s Florida Seafood Maggie’s Sports Bar & Grille Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Street Café & Treats Maker’s Mark Lounge Manhattan Grill Mark’s Feed Store Market on Market Martini Italian Bistro Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot The Menu on the River Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil’s Place Nero’s New Albanian Brewing Co. New China New Direction Bar & Grill Ninny’s-N-New Albany Nios Nord’s Brown Bag Deli Norma Jean’s Trackside North End Café NV Tavern O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub Oak Street Pizza The Oakroom Oceanside Restaurant Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border Onion Rest.Tea House Orchid Asian Café Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Our Best Restaurant Outback Steakhouse P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Papa Johns Pizza Park Place Restaurant Passtime Fish House Pat’s Steak House

MAP #

80 Mexican 12 66 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 69 Home Style/Southern 13 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 80 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 80 Mexican 14 72 Sandwich/Deli 3 70 Pizza 6 76 Asian/Chinese 4 70 Entertainment Dining 1 70 Pizza 1 72 Sandwich/Deli 16 67 Casual Dining 2 70 Pizza 15 66 Seafood 7 75 Bar & Grill 6 78 Asian/Thai 16 77 Asian/Japanese 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 64 Cafés 14 62 Upscale Casual 1 67 Casual Dining 1 74 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 78 European/Italian 8 67 Casual Dining 1 68 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 66 Seafood 9 72 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 78 European/Italian 1 62 Upscale Casual 6 75 Bar & Grill 16 64 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 4, 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 75 Bar & Grill 1 66 Seafood 13 68 Casual Dining 5 66 Seafood 8 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 11, 15 79 European/Spanish 7 78 European/Irish 2 68 Casual Dining 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Steakhouse 1 70 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 69 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Cafés 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 70 Entertainment Dining 12 72 Sandwich/Deli 2 62 Upscale Casual 3 68 Casual Dining 14 63 Upscale Casual 14 70 Pizza 14 76 Asian/Chinese 9 75 Bar & Grill 8 69 Home Style/Southern 14 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 68 Casual Dining 7 64 Cafés 2 75 Bar & Grill 2 68 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 69 Home Style/Southern 13 78 European/Irish 2 71 Pizza 1 60 Fine Dining 1 79 Middle Eastern 4 68 Casual Dining 6 81 Coffee House 1 79 European/Italian 1 63 Upscale Casual 6 74 Barbecue 11 79 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 72 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 76 Asian/Chinese 14 76 Asian/Chinese 14 73 Sandwich/Deli 9 76 Asian/Chinese 3 76 Asian/Chinese 12 71 Pizza 2 77 Asian/Japanese 2 68 Casual Dining 1 69 Home Style/Southern 12 66 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 63 Upscale Casual 5 71 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 79 European/Spanish 2 76 Asian/Chinese 10 73 Sandwich/Deli3, 6, 8, 12, 15 71 Pizza [30] 60 Fine Dining 1 66 Seafood 6 66 Steakhouse 2

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MAP #

The Patron 63 Upscale Casual 3 Paul’s Fruit Market 73 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Penn Station 73 Sandwich/Deli [14] Peppers Bar and Grill 68 Casual Dining 1 Perkfection 81 Coffee House 16 Pesto’s Italian 79 European/Italian 1 Pho Binh Minh 78 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Piccadilly Cafeteria 70 Cafeterias 5, 6 Picnicaters BBQ 74 Barbecue 1 Pig and a Peppermint 64 Cafés 10 Pig City BBQ 74 Barbecue 9 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 77 Asian/Korean 2 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 74 Barbecue 1 Pita Delights 79 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza By The Guy 71 Pizza 5 Pizza Hut 71 Pizza [15] Pizza King 71 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 71 Pizza 4 Pizzeria Uno 71 Pizza 11 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Ponderosa Steakhouse 66 Steakhouse 7 Porcini 79 European/Italian 2 Portico 60 Fine Dining 14 Prado’s Pizza 71 Pizza 9 Primo 79 European/Italian 1 Proof On Main 61 Fine Dining 1 Prospect Fish Market 66 Seafood 10 Pub Louisville 68 Casual Dining 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 79 European/Italian 3 Puerto Vallarta 80 Mexican 14, 16 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15 Queen of Sheba 75 African 4 Queue Café 64 Cafés 6 Quick Wok 76 Asian/Chinese 1 Quizno’s Subs 73 Sandwich/Deli [17] Rafferty’s of Louisville 68 Casual Dining 3, 8 Ramsi’s Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Raw Sushi Lounge 77 Asian/Japanese 1 Ray Parrella’s 79 European/Italian 2 Ray’s Monkey House 81 Coffee House 2 Red Pepper Chinese Cuisine 76 Asian/Chinese 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 68 Casual Dining 8 Red Star Tavern 63 Upscale Casual 1 Red Sun Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 4 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 63 Upscale Casual 3 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 74 Barbecue 1 Rivue 63 Upscale Casual 1 Road to Morroco 79 Middle Eastern 1 RockWall Bistro 63 Upscale Casual 14 Rocky’s Italian Grill 79 European/Italian 8, 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 79 European/Italian 5 Roosters 68 Casual Dining 12 Rosticeria Luna 80 Mexican 12 Royal Garden 76 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Royal India 79 Indian 3 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 74 Barbecue 12 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Mexican 15 Ruby Tuesday 68 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 68 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 66 Seafood 9 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 66 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 66 Steakhouse 11, 13, 15 Saffron’s 79 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Middle Eastern 1 Sahara Café 79 Middle Eastern 3 Saint’s 75 Bar & Grill 3 Sakura Blue 77 Asian/Japanese 3 Sala Thai 78 Asian/Thai 6 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Sam’s Food & Spirits 68 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe Grill 81 Mexican 12 Sapporo Japanese Grill 77 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 76 Asian/Filipino 2 Savino’s Italian Food 79 European/Italian 13 Schlotzsky’s Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Scotty’s Ribs 74 Barbecue 9 Senor Iguana’s 81 Mexican 15 Sesame Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 5 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 61 Fine Dining 2, 8 Shady Lane Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 76 Asian/Chinese 6 Shalimar Indian 79 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 74 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 76 Asian/Chinese 1 Sharom’s 66 Seafood 11 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 78 European/Irish 2, 7 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 79 Middle Eastern 2, 7 Shogun 77 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 68 Casual Dining 2, 12 Sichuan Garden 76 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 71 Pizza 1 Simply Thai 78 Asian/Thai 3 Sister Bean’s 81 Coffee House 13 Sitar 79 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 68 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Slice of New York 71 Pizza 6 Smokey Bones BBQ 74 Barbecue 6 Snappy Tomato 71 Pizza [7]

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MAP #

Sol Aztecas 81 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 73 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 South Side Inn 70 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 79 European/Italian 11, 14 Speakeasy 63 Upscale Casual 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 71 Pizza 2 Sports Page Grill 75 Bar & Grill 6 Sportsville Grill & Bar 68 Casual Dining 12 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 66 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 70 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [27] Starving Artist Café 73 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 68 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 75 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 73 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 79 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 66 Steakhouse 8 Stratto’s 79 European/Italian 15 Strawberry Patch Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 70 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 73 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 75 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 64 Cafés 2 Sweet Peas Southern 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sweet Surrender 64 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Tico 81 Mexican 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 81 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 75 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 80 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 76 Asian/Chinese 8 Tengo sed Cantina 75 Bar & Grill 1 Tequila Mexican Rest.

81 Mexican 12 Texas Roadhouse 66 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 68 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 78 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Siam 78 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 78 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 78 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 75 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 64 Cafés 1 The Gaslight Inn 68 Casual Dining 6 The Lunch Pail 64 Cafés 1 Theater Square Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third Avenue Café 65 Cafés 1 Toast on Market 68 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 77 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster 68 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 71 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 72 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 74 Barbecue 5 Trailside Café 81 Coffee House 7 Trellis Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 68 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Turkey Joe’s 75 Bar & Grill 8 Tuscano’s 73 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 79 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Uptown Café 63 Upscale Casual 2 Varanese 63 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 75 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 78 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 68 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 74 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 61 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 72 Pizza 12 Volare 79 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 73 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 69 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 73 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 69 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 68 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 65 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 72 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Eggs 65 Cafés 3 Windy City Pizzeria 72 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 68 Casual Dining 12 Wings To Go 72 Pizza 14 Winston’s 61 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 76 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 65 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 76 Asian/Chinese 4 Wood City Grill 74 Barbecue 1 Woody’s Pub & Grill 75 Bar & Grill 8 Xavier’s 68 Casual Dining 1 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 63 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 76 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 76 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 76 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 76 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 72 Pizza 2 ZaZoo’s 75 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 78 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 61 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 59

GUIDE KEY

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$ = Average Entrée under $8 $$ = Average Entrée $9–$14 $$$ = Average Entrée $15–$20 $$$$ = Average Entrée $21 & up

2 11 CL OVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clo ver Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthews. It c onsistently r anks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia A ve., 636-0783. Chef Edward L ee’s dis tinctive, eclectic tak e on cr eative international cookery places his personal signatur e on e very dish at this elegantly c omfortable Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quart er of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s fines t places to dine. $$$$ p f

RED = Advertiser

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

kicks things up another not ch with this remarkable, high-end East End destination, which makes thoughtful use of the his toric Von Allmen mansion with high-t ech touches that r ange from a 2 1s t c entury kit chen t o multimedia dinners.

Corbett has his sights set on bec oming Kentucky’s firs t Mobil fiv e-diamond r estaurant, and we’re not betting against him. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (T he Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same do wntown landmark that our grandparents enjo yed, but Chef Laur ent Gér oli brings the gr and old hot el dining r oom int o the 2 1st c entury with sophis ticated int ernational cuisine. $$$$ p

BUCK’S 42 5 W . Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-52 84. E clectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not o verstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e

EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s mos t honored r estaurants in this simple whit e-brick building in St. Matthe ws, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid servic e and firs t-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p

CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tr adition that helped es tablish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’ s “r estaurant r ows” a generation ago , Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and c ontinues t o please Metr o’s lo yal fans. $$$ p

LE RELAIS 2 817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in L ouisville’s r estaurant r ace, this art dec o spot makes s tylish use of a his toric 19 2 0s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e

CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLA CE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blv d., 32 7-5058. Dean C orbett, longtime owner/chef at Equus and Jack’s Lounge,

LILLY’S 1147 Bar dstown Rd., 451-044 7. As a r epeat invitee t o Manhattan’ s James Bear d House , Chef Kathy Cary shar es her K entucky-accented cooking

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ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812. skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s c ombines sophisticated s tyle and Cary’ s cr eative c ookery t o keep this landmark r estaurant one of L ouisville’s dining favorites. $$$$ p e LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant busines s, k eep doing what y ou do bes t. Chefs Jim Gerhar dt and Michael Cunha ha ve followed this simple f ormula with c onsiderable suc cess at Limes tone, tr ansporting the c oncept that br ought them international culinary k udos at the Seelbach’ s Oakroom with good eff ect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Ex ecutive Chef T odd Richar ds has been cutting a swath, with recent appearances at James Bear d House and Ir on Chef America.

Richards and right-hand-man Chef Duane Nutt er have made the onc e-staid old Oakr oom one of the city’s most exciting places to dine. $$$$ p PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. Chef Jay Denham has settled in as e xecutive chef no w, and he pr esides o ver a renovated dining r oom and a ne w menu. T his signature r estaurant in L ouisville Slugger Field remains a r eliable place to enjoy a quality meal in a comfortable setting. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas t o Metr o L ouisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the gr ounds of

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Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 2 17 -6360. T his stylish spot in the posh 2 1C Museum Hot el at Seventh & Main has earned a firm plac e in the t op tier of local eat eries. Chef Michael P aley pr eside over a modern American bill of f are with dis tinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RES TAURANT 1538 Bar dstown Rd., 473-8560, 2929 Goose Cr eek Rd., 425- 1000.

Chef Anthon y Lamas has been winning national praise f or his cr eative c ookery, fr equently appearing in national f ood media and making a regular tr ek t o James Bear d House in NY C. Seviche, as the name implies, specializ es in the Latino seafood dish “ cooked” in tart citrus juic es.

Now ther e’s another Se viche, bringing a similar Latino vibe t o the ’burbs: Se viche A Latin Bistro on Goose Creek Road. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known f or its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, V incenzo’s c ontinues t o hold its o wn against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RES TAURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan Univ ersity Campus ), 456-0980 .

Renovated quarters kick W inston’s up a not ch as culinary arts s tudents at Sulliv an Univ ersity s taff this fine-dining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p Z’S O YSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittingt on Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich en virons outside the W atterson.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

culinary influences, a mix that in vites comparison with San Fr ancisco’s Slant ed Door and Cincinnati’s Pho Paris. $$ p 60 WES T BIS TRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelb yville Rd., 7 19-9717. 60 W est, f ormerly Café Emilie , combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar with an imposing lis t of martinis and martini-style cocktails. Chefs Tim Smith and Chris Vanhoozer off er an appealing, f airly pric ed eclectic international menu. $$ p f

BLU IT ALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 62 7-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Medit erranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlight ed b y Me xican limestone and Italian marble . For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quick er snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p

ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. A v ery good fit with the bus tling east-of-downtown arts scene, Artemisia rates as favorite dinner venue in an artful gallery setting, with an attractive alfresco option in its f our-season enclosed c ourtyard, Artemisia off ers s tylish f are t o please both vegetarians and omnivores. $$$ p f e

BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “ a fun, whit e-tablecloth casual eat ery … positioned betw een the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f

ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has w on diners’ r aves and man y culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local t enure. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has w on him invitations to New York City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f

BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582 - 1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 9 2 2 585, 2 0 35 S. T hird St., 6 34-2 72 3, 7 00 W .

Riverside Dr ., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1995. T he Bristol has been a star on Louisville’s bistro scene since it helped kick off the Bar dstown R oad restaurant renaissance 30 years ago this year. Old standards lik e the gr een-chile w on t ons and the Bristol Bur ger ar e alw ays r eliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f

AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban w atering hole taps the same v ein as the national fr anchise boo ze ’n’ beef genr e, and does so w ell, off ering satisfying dining at a f air price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bar dstown R oad off ers a fr esh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a dis tinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Michael and St even T on ar e winning raves f or their sleek and upscale ne w r estaurant with its “fusion” blend of V ietnamese and w orld

CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blv d., 62 5- 3090. Samm y Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, adds a do wntown pr esence with this s tylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel.

Eat at the sushi bar , choose a c omfortable table or r eserve the tr aditional Japanese-s tyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecak e” is its name , and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich,

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calorific choic es t o eat in or tak e out. It ’s mor e than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar servic e. $$ p CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Club Grotto’s s tylish and r omantically dim en virons add up to a comfortable, familiar Highlands spot that’s worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a mor e serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes that r ange from down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119 .

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. (see listing under Entertainment Dining) INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584- 12 65. T he elegant r estaurant space in A ctor’s T heatre of L ouisville’s his toric building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. T his c omfortably upscale v enue, a Nashville-based chain, f eatures “ contemporary American” f are with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tas teful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, ther e’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. T his popular spot is always packed. It sa ves just a whiff of the r affish aspect of its 1960s-er a pr edecessor, a local saloon, but upgr ades it with cr eative American fare in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1111. T his old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home servic e t o its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2 300 L exington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s har d t o argue with suc cess, and K T’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-9009 . Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, K entucky’s Mak er’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image t o this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magis terial bar f eatures mor e than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p MOJITO TAPAS RES TAURANT 2 2 31 Holida y Manor Shopping C enter, 42 5-094 9. ( see r eview under European/Spanish) NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

This s tylish St. Matthe ws v enue spans Calif ornia and the Pacific Rim, earning its r eputation as one of the city’ s leading r estaurants on the basis of

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Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and a fine California-focused wine collection. $$$ pf NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portic o as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Portic o’s all- American s teak-andseafood theme with a br oader int ernational menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD S TONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. Under the management of Paul Crump, f ormerly of Por cini, this his toric s tone building (east of L ouisville in Simpson ville) carries on the r eputation that has made the c omfortably nostalgic r estaurant popular f or mor e than a generation. $$$ p f THE P ATRON 3400 Fr ankfort A ve., 896- 1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an e vening meal, the P atron off ers some of the bes t c ooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool off ers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $$ p P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BIS TRO 912 0 Shelb yville Rd., 32 7-7707. T his Ariz ona-based, Chinese themed restaurant off ers a loud, happ y sc ene with Chinese-style dishes. T o its cr edit, e verything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p

VOLARE 2 300 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian) YACHING’S EA ST WES T CUISINE 105 S. F ourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of Eas t and W est, sufficient t o give jus t about everyone something t o enjo y, r egardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 C orporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suit es), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular cr ab cakes and arr ay of pas ta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie . $$ p BAXTER S TATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 P ayne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot lik e a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmospher e tak e it a not ch upscale , and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost yearround. Take particular not e of an impr essive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f BISTRO 301 301 W. Mark et St., 584-833 7. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a s tylish,

recently renovated environment makes Bistro 301 a r easonable alt ernative when y ou’re looking f or upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 111.

Chef Sc ott Schamel brings a gourmet-s tyle sensibility t o this attr active luncheon spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel. Menu choices rarely mis s; if Pos sum Pie is the des sert special, don’t fail to choose it. $ BOURBONS BIS TRO 2 2 55 Fr ankfort A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s tr aditional nectar, owns a plac e of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bis tro c ombines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what mus t be the w orld’s mos t c omprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Gr ange Rd., 2 43-112 0. T he use of an e xceptionally obscur e wine t erm (it ’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe gr apes at harv est) hints that the pr oprietors of this ne w wine bar kno w their f ood. Int eresting wines and a short bis tro-style menu mak e it a welcome suburban addition. $

RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED S TAR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American ta vern,” this chain oper ation in F ourth Street LIve features steaks, chops and seaf ood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubb y, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell is the amiable host at this St. Matthe ws restaurant that bears his name , and w e don’t mean “F errari.”

Excellent libations and upscale American f are make it a popular des tination. $$ p f e RIVUE 140 N. F ourth St., ( Galt House Hot el) 5895200. As part of an o verall makeover, Galt House management has c ompletely redone the dark old Flagship R oom, c onverting the hot el’s r evolving building-top v enue int o a sophis ticated, upscale and architecturally stunning dining room. $$$ p ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old rock-quarry location in scenic Floyds Knobs to offer an atmospheric eatery, with a creative menu and an int eresting, aff ordable wine lis t. It ’s w ell worth the trip acr oss the Ohio f or one of the ar ea’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f SPEAKEASY 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 981-0981.

Another k ey pla yer in the de veloping Southern Indiana r enaissance, T he Speak easy off ers c ontemporary bis tro-style f are in a jazz bar setting, with nightly ent ertainment r anging fr om jazz t o big band music. $$$ p f e UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bar dstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except f or the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. The old Red L ounge has under gone a tr ansformation, upgraded to a s tunning new dining r oom named for o wner and chef , John V aranese, who’ s been executive chef at U of L ’s Car dinal Club and Azalea. Varanese puts his personal s tamp on an exciting, upscale casual and int ernationally flavored bill of f are. Liv e jazz, c ontemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 63

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CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776. This popular spot has been winning critical r aves and packing in cr owds in its ne w St. Matthe ws location.

Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is c omfortable with his international bill of f are that r anges fr om Louisiana t o the Medit erranean, and the Café’ s trademark c olorful, bold art undersc ores its laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ p DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 581-912 9 .

Highlands f avorite. Chef /Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining sc ene— offers an int ernationally eclectic bill of f are that ranges fr om K ansas City ribs and Ne w England crab cak es t o T hai chick en wings and Chinese burritos. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-2 2 0 2 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine t o rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll ha ve no complaints about Har d Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e JACK’S L OUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 89 7-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but e xcellent menu f eaturing appetiz ers and light bit es, along with a drinks lis t be yond reproach. $ p JAZZ F ACTORY 815 W . Mark et St. ( Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . L ouisville’s r estored Glas sworks building mak es a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue f or serious, liv e jazz. No w in-house food pr ep in c ooperation with clas sy P ark Plac e adds luster to the bill of f are. $$ p e L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If y ou’re enthusias tic about good wine, you’re going t o be excited about L &N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 100 wines a vailable by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f NIOS 917 Baxter Ave., 456-7080. Back with new spirit after a brief closing, Nio’ s at 917 offers an inviting concept: Cr eate y our o wn main c ourse with a sharable selection of small plat es, featuring such creative goodies b y Chefs Josh T uley and Matt Tuley as South west Inspir ed duck w ontons, Filipino vinegar-c ooked kila win, bab y back ribs, tomato basil bisque , trio of sata ys, and c oconut shrimp. $$$ p f RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funk y and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Gener ation X cr owd attracts f oodies of all ages with its friendly setting, r easonable pric es and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f SWEET PEA S SOUTHERN 2 350 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-9091. T his c omfortable Cr escent Hill spot features traditional Southern f are with a t ouch of creative innovation. Expansive lunch and weekend buffets offer particularly fine value. $ p f

ANGIE’S CAFÉ 4010 Dupont Circle, 895-7064. This small r etail bak ery and deli, hidden a way on the back side of the Dupont Pr ofessional T ower building near Napa Riv er Grill in St. Matthe ws’ Dupont Cir cle shopping dis trict, off ers an affordable option for neighborhood diners. $ AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. Gr ab a bit e bef ore hitting the casino . Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $

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BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-9800 . T his bak ery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Eur ope. Its c omfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tas ty dishes made t o show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUE MOUNT AIN C OFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582 - 32 2 0. Hos t Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican ac cent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty, at this sleek and sophisticated new spot across Main from Slugger Field. A c offee house b y da y, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $$ f THE BOUNTIFUL BREAD BAKER Y CAFÉ 1311 Herr Ln., 742-8111. This upscale bakery in the W estport Village shopping c enter is building a buzz with excellent, old world-style artisan bread baked on the pr emises, homemade soups and simple , hearty homemade f are. The first expansion of an Albany, N.Y., firm that hopes t o grow into a chain, it’s highly recommended. $ f e BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $ f

popular bak eries attr act cr owds looking f or an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Gos s A ve., 6 37-9412 .

One of the man y old-f ashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middlet own, K Y, 2 45-1569. T he Middlet own Historic Dis trict is booming with s torefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t.

The Gr apevine P antry off ers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, the r ecently redecorated J. Graham’s off ers a mor e casual bis tro-style alternative t o the upscale English Grill, which choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ p

THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot off ers teas and light er lunch f are in an attr active old-house setting. $ f

JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Mark et St., 587-872 0. A w orthy edition t o the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine c offee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe . $ f

CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-89 2 9.

Cuisine from around the w orld is f eatured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $

KAYROUZ CAFÉ 12 7 W iltshire A ve., 896-2 6 31. T he younger gener ation of a long-s tanding local restaurant f amily off ers soup and sandwich favorites and some L ebanese specialties in this small but stylish St. Matthews building. $ f

CAFÉ J 3600 Dut chmans Ln. ( Jewish C ommunity Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center offers fully k osher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f

MAIN S TREET CAFÉ & TREA TS 155 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-9494. $

CAMILLE’S SIDEWALK CAFÉ 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2005 $ f

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian A ve., 897-9703. This little lunch spot oc cupies a c ozy old house in St. Matthews. Servic e is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $

CHEDDAR BO X CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelb yville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch oft en do so her e, lur ed b y an attr active selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches .and desserts. $ f

MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigr ant f amily fr om Eas tern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $

CHRISANTA’S CAFÉ 1812 Br ownsboro Rd., 6 182250. Don’t blink when you pass this small Clifton storefront down at the lo wer end of Br ownsboro in Clift on, or y ou might mis s y our chanc e f or a charming lunch. Medit erranean bis tro f are includes a v ariety of panini, k abobs and comfortable Persian home cooking. $

NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’s most popular spots f or upscale casual dining.

The eclectic menu off ers div erse tapas and interesting entrées. It ’s an appealing, aff ordable place to dine. $ f

CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. F ourth St., 6 35-02 2 2 , 505 W .

Broadway, 589- 1797, 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time s tar in the city’ s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingr edients to these simple , but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f

PIG AND A PEPPERMINT 9521 US Hwy 42, 292-1245. $ f

CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2 2 50 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-1488. Experienc ed cat erers and chefs off er casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $ f CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it ’s both. T his informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 C entral A ve. (K entucky Derb y Museum), 634-0858. Lunch serv ed year-round in the dining ar ea adjac ent t o the Derb y Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 12 01 S. Firs t St., 6 356960, 723 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. F ourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These

QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Savory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 458-6363.

After moving from its original Fr ankfort Avenue to Bardstown R oad a f ew y ears ago , o wner Jes sica Haskell has r eturned to her original neighborhood.

A light lunch menu is a vailable as w ell as the trademark desserts. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Br ent St., 6 37-6869. L ong hailed as one of the city’s most attractive places for a simple but s tylish lunch, this local ins titution has mo ved from the old L ouisville Antique Mall on Gos s Avenue (which is being converted into condos), to a more easily accessible storefront location just off East Broadway. $ THE L UNCH P AIL 502 E. W arnock St., 6 34-7116.

Offering y et another quick and c omforting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. It ’s lunch only f or no w, but w atch f or e vening hours in warmer weather. $ f

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THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y f avorite plac es f or a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting lo yal cr owds with e xcellent f are and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 454-5955.

Recently relocated a mile or so in Bar dstown Road from its original F ern Cr eek location, Whitne y’s remains a c omfortable spot f or a casual, diner-s tyle breakfast, lunch or dinner. $ WILD EGGS 3985 Dut chmans Ln., 89 3-8005. T he owners of Napa Riv er Grill ha ve hit a home run with the launch of this popular , high-quality spot, set t o be the firs t in a gr owing mini-chain. W ild Eggs serv es br eakfast, brunch and lunch.

Traditional f avorites and specialty omelets ar e featured, with upscale t ouches at moder ate prices, plus a trained espresso barista and full bar service. $ p

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 5897983. Although it bears the name of the c elebrity A ustrian chef , don’t e xpect W olfie in the kitchen: This fast-food operation in the K entucky International C onvention C enter will be run b y Centerplate, the same f olks who pr ovide c oncessions at Slugger Field and P apa John’ s Cardinal Stadium. $$

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 12 4666. T his fr anchise c oncept fr om the Floridabased Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a c omfortable setting. Add Bonefish t o y our short lis t of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 W estport Rd., 894-8947. In an Eas t End neighborhood rich with seaf ood eat eries, Car olina off ers a tas ty option within w alking dis tance of do wntown St. Matthews. T his spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and c od, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an aff ordable family setting. $

3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eas tern Blv d., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper tr ays—but it is c onsistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter A ve., 568-2 99 3.

Louisville is as o verflowing as a w ell-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 362 4 L exington Rd., 895- 1188. T he original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, T he Fishery remains justly popular f or its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and eas y to miss, but it ’s worth the effort to get by. Its oversize fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a v aried menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH COMPANY 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-5300 . Spa wned b y a beachside eat ery in the Florida K eys, Islamor ada Fish Company has locations in many of the nation’s 30 Bass Pro Shops, including Clarks ville’s gigantic entry in the f ormer Riv er F alls Mall. Beach-shack decor adds fun, and its e xpansive menu off ers a broad selection of seafood and fish. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHA CK 131 Riv er Rd., 568- 1171. T he setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line , and I’m pleased t o r eport that the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f

1722 Frankfort Ave., Louisville

502-896-8770

www.northendcafe.com www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 65

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JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. T his small Highlands shop off ers fried fish sandwiches, o versized fish tac os and other seafood fare in a casual setting. W e’ve found the fish dishes first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RES TAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper Riv er R oad and Riv erside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f MACCA’S FL ORIDA SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR 1315 Herr Ln., 6 18-2 770. Originally slat ed t o be an R.J .

Gator’s, this ne w pr operty’s local o wners ha ve changed its name and image t o r eflect its ne w mission: Upscale casual seafood and fish, upscale in menu and design but affordable for families. $$ p f MAZZONI’S O YSTER CAFÉ 12 003 Shelb yville Rd., 451-4436. A his tory that dat es t o 1884 mak es Mazzoni’s one of the city’ s longes t-running restaurant acts. After a generation in the Bowman Field ar ea, it ’s on the mo ve again t o suburban Middletown. T he mo ve w as e xpected t o be complete at pr ess time . We figur e the pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster will all stay pretty much the same. $

FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin y our way. Some of the city’ s bes t iv ory mas ters ar e at the piano t o enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e FRANK’S S TEAK HOUSE 52 0 W . Se venth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3383, 9601 Shelb yville Rd., 42 9-3714. A longtime north-of-the-riv er f avorite, this neighborhood steakhouse now offers venues on both sides of the riv er, where steak lovers will find c omfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p JEFF RUB Y’S S TEAKHOUSE 32 5 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belt erra Casino , no w hos ts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale s teak house that bears his name . Fine beef is the main dr aw, with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e

PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. $fe PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . If y ou’re on the eas tern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Mark et off ers good, aff ordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. V isualize Hoot er’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the buck etof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 562 7 Out er L oop, 968-836 3. F amily owned and f amily style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p STAN’S FISH S ANDWICH 372 3 L exington Rd., 8966600. T he fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perf ectly pr epared. I’v e ne ver had a better fish sandwich an ywhere. W atch f or daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ ]

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 288-2411. This independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s bes t v alues f or e xpertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and c onfigurations, but someone in the kit chen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISC O’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 89 7-7077. Onc e ranked among the city’ s t op s teakhouses, Del Frisco’s r emains s trong in its c ore c ompetency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p 66 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

PAT’S S TEAK HOUSE 2 437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ’50s, but when I at e there last, I think I saw Ozzie and Harriet. A local f avorite, its c ombination of quality beef and hospitality r ank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA S TEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hw y., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, K Y, 2 2 2 - 12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buff et with hot and c old f oods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, C ohiba the bes t cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the bes t r estaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p

MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at f amily pric es sinc e 19 2 5 and r emains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. T he dec or of this upscale , C olumbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination. $$$ p f

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 65 2 0 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9 , 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Plac e, Clarks ville, IN, 2 834329. The name sugges ts Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond jus t s teak t o tak e in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p

RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4 711 Dixie Hw y., 44 7-4781, 6 36 Eas tern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-85 20. This popular North Carolina-based chain off ers f amily dining with good v ariety: Its div erse and e xtensive buff et features over 150 items. $

Great Seafood in a Casual Family Atmosphere Since 1988 HOME OF

Stan’s Famous Fish Sandwich Fried and Grilled Dinners Oysters, Shrimp and Scallops Soups and Salads Also featuring Stan’s DreamCatcher Burger

STONEY RIVER LEGEND ARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 42 9-8944. St oney Riv er in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big cr owds with its memor able s teaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0 705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pk wy., 89 7-5005, 332 2 Out er L oop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme for this popular s teak house . Salads, v egetables and br eads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex)

Now celebrating our 20th year!

Open: Monday–Saturday 11am–8pm Fridays till 9pm • Closed Sundays 3723 Lexington Road • 896-6600 LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 89 33884, 5 2 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-05 77, 9 70 Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9 789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nash ville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN S TEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurs tbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9 700 V on Allmen Ct., 32 6- 7500, 12 10 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sk y” western theme ar e the draw at this chain eat ery, although mos t of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 62 6 W. Main St., 584-042 1. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Mort on’s earns a solid thr ee s tars and r anks among the t op tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice R estaurant, billed as “Ne w Alban y’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping C enter specializes in br eakfast and lunch. T he fare is do wn-home and simple , at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES A T THE RAMAD A INN 1041 Z orn A ve., 897-5101. Serving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic as sortment of salads, s teaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutt er, but c ompetent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 707 W. Riv erside Dr ., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 84-2 919 .

Buckhead’s c ombination of mountain lodge atmosphere and American-s tyle fare make these

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popular des tinations. T he lar ge menu f eatures down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of L ouisville’s sk yline fr om the riv erfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f CAFÉ MA GNOLIA 140 N. F ourth St. ( Galt House ), 589-52 00. T he Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alt ernative, this spacious venue—formerly the River Grille, offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor C enter), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian f are a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CAPTAIN’S QU ARTERS 5700 Captain’ s Quart ers Rd., 2 2 8- 1651. One of the city’ s mos t attr active eateries f or atmospher e, Captain’ s Quart ers matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle f are that w on’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF F AME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou w ant f ood t oo? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr . (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Kno wn b y locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w Y ork s trip, ribe ye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e CHEDDAR’S CA SUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and f amiliar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p CHICK INN 632 5 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The fried chicken remains estimable, and a local crowd calls it home base. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Ant onia W ay, 301-8181,972 0 V on Allmen Ct., 301-8880 . Mor e than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen cus tard t ops the des sert menu, y ou know you’re not in f or diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly servic e mak e this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6, 301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 362 5. Carrying on int o its third c entury in modern quart ers that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a sec ond eat ery on Harrods Creek. $ f

covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu oft en includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RES TAURANT 2 2 2 S. Se venth St., 583-8183.

This f amily-owned eat ery has been ar ound f or decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Rus sian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ HOOTERS 412 0 Dut chmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4 948 Dixie Hw y., 44 9-4194; 77 01 Pr eston Hw y., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 189485; 94 1 Eas t Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-s tanding reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e

Spring on in and cheer for the seasonal favorites!

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 85- 172 2 . F ans of this cult classic say the Metro has been without a handy IHOP f or f ar t oo long. R elief is her e with this f amiliar fr anchise’s r ecent opening in Southern Indiana. $ JARFI’S AT MELLWOOD 1860 Mellw ood Ave., 2 599888. Jeff Jarfi, hos t of Jarfi’ s Bis tro in the Kentucky C enter, hos ts this sec ond pr operty bearing his name in the Mellw ood Arts C enter.

Currently open only for lunch. $ f JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong aft er man y y ears in this Lyndon location, Joe’ s has gr adually grown from a little house t o a spr awling c omplex of indoor and out door tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e JUKE BO X Highlander Point Shopping C Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

enter,

KAELIN’S RES TAURANT 1801 Ne wburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 7 0 y ears, and their cheek y claim t o ha ve invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f KAREM’S GRILL & PUB 9424 Nort ons C ommons Blvd., 327-5646. $ p f KARMA CAFÉ 112 6 Bar dstown Rd., 58 7-0062 .

Karma Café s tays open lat e and off ers dinerstyle courses—with a few Middle Eastern dishes for ac cent—in a casually arts y and inf ormal setting. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This f amily-owned ta vern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top sinc e 19 78. K ern’s off ers freshly made ham, chick en salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS A T CAES ARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he hot and c old short or ders ar e serv ed up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e

Spring is right around the corner at Buckhead Mountain Grill.

We love the cold weather at the Mountain Lodge, but we’re also gearing up for spring, so whether you’re watching a basketball game, or just enjoying our food, we’re ready to serve!

707 W Riverside Dr Jeffersonville, IN 812.284.2919 (spectacular view on the river, off I-65) 4112 Outer Loop Louisville, KY 502.966.555 (on the corner of Preston Hwy and Outer Loop) 3020 Bardstown Rd Louisville, KY 502.456.6680 (Gardiner Lane Shopping Center)

LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the mos t popular places in town for brunch (and dinner t oo), Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e F air’s t ongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp C ontest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling f ood. $$ p

EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 Upper River Rd., 2282882. If you haven’t been to Eva Mae’s for a while, forget e verything y ou think y ou kno w about this quaint riv erside spot: Owner/Chef Travis Hall has totally revamped the place, turning it into a destination dining r oom b y night, do wn-home lunch b y da y, with a w all of glas s and spr awling decks that overlook Harrods Creek. $$ p f e

MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 56 1-0024. $

FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. T his c omfortable spac e features both buff et and menu dining. One pric e

MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Third St., 636-2511. A fine, family L ouisville tr adition, this f amiliar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s

A real local restaurant loved by real locals.

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largest full-servic e r estaurant and the city’ s largest cat erer. Serving a lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 939662 , 39 2 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 4 12 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a s teady f ormula of friendly service and casual-dining f are that r anges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads t o mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 6-6588.

This Calif ornia chain, a subsidiary of Bob E vans, goes urban and upscale wher e f armer Bob is folksy and c ountry. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wher e the Highlands meet Germant own, T he Monk ey Wrench off ers c omfort f ood with a s tylish spin, good music, a r elaxed ambienc e and w elcoming service. L ook f or an e xciting ne w r oof gar den coming in the spring. $ p e f NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also mak es excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p NORMA JEAN’S TRA CKSIDE 119 W . Main St., LaGrange, K Y, 2 2 2 -8044. T his Oldham C ounty favorite has evolved over the years, taking on a more upscale touches, but hos ts Norma and John Burle y consistently make it feel a lot like home. $$ p f O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations ) O’Charle y’s, Inc. c ould serve well as the pictur e in the dictionary ne xt to “American casual dining. ” T he Nash ville-based chain operates 206 pr operties in 16 s tates in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a s traightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p OLD CHICA GO P ASTA & PIZ ZA 9010 T aylorsville Rd., 301- 7700. T his gr owing chain specializ es in both thick Chicago-s tyle and thin tr aditional pizza, plus an imposing lis t of 110 beers fr om around the world. $$ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buff et and the Ex ecutive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 32 0 W . Jeff erson St., (Hyatt R egency) 58 7-3434. T he casual-dining facility in the Hy att R egency gets a mak eover and a full diner menu, open t o hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ p PUB L OUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Liv e 56 9-7782 .

Owned b y Cincinnati’ s T he T avern R estaurant Group, T he P ub f eatures “nouv eau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes lik e fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurs t Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e R ed Alfr edo P asta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the lar gest and mos t cr eative salad combinations in town. $$ p RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-86 16. T he R obin has landed in the Brownsboro Crossings shopping center in the f ar East End. T he highly r egarded Seattle-based chain off ers “ gourmet bur gers” and trimmings.

Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ p f 68 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

ROOSTER’S 7405 Pr eston Hw y., 964-9464. T his Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is no w spr eading its fr anchise wings across the Eas tern U .S., including this ne w Louisville property in renovated quarters formerly occupied by a Ryan’s Steakhouse. $ p f RUBY TUESD AY 11701 Bluegr ass Pk wy., 2 6 7-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demons trates quality , then Rub y Tuesday’s 600 int ernational pr operties and 30,000 emplo yees can s tand up with pride .

They’ve been upholding the slogan “ Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar ” in L ouisville f or a generation. $$ p e

TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389 . Value and v ariety are the s trong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om bur gers t o lobs ter tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hy att Regency), 58 7-3434. Dine on café f are in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobb y while y ou tak e advantage of an en vironment made f or peoplewatching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2 441 Stat e St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, off ering bur gers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p

THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in jus t about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of f are, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations fr om Gener ation X’ ers t o aging hippies. $ p f e

TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bar dstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home v ery lat e on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e t o gr ab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $

SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 P ayne K ohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757. Opened by a man named Sam some 16 y ears ago , this popular Southern Indiana institution feeds an army of happy diners.

You’ll find seaf ood, s teaks, pas tas, salads and desserts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p

THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he V illa Buff et offers an impr essive choic e of int ernational dishes, with some 150 selections. A seaf ood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$

SHONEY’S 811 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 36-1043, 6511 Signature Dr ., 96 9-8904. F or nearly 50 y ears, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’ s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-12 34, Plainview V illage C enter, 42 9-5 773, 40 2 4 Dutchman’s Ln., 7 2 1-0093, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37402 0, 42 6 W . Mark et St., 56 1-9999 7 2 1-0093, 402 4 Dut chman’s Ln. L ouisville’s outpos ts of a famous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eateries off er the r egional f avorite (r eally it ’s Greek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ SPORTSVILLE GRILL & BAR 4004 G ardiner Point Dr., 7 53-4413. A r emodeled v enue, a r evamped menu and a sports-bar theme hail the arriv al of Sportsville Grill & Bar at Holida y Inn Airport Eas t, replacing the old Duk e’s as the hot el’s dining room. $$ p STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 91-3397, 10 72 1 Fischer P ark Dr ., 32 6- 362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85- 1154. One of the oldes t f astfood chains in the U .S., St eak N Shak e tr aces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak bur gers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRID AY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 42 5-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and c ongregate aft er the whis tle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bis tro dining and libations.

The bill of f are ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f THE GA SLIGHT INN RES TAURANT & T AP 10317 Watterson T rail, 2 66- 7112 . T his fine old Jeffersontown f armhouse, f ormerly the home of the v ery British Sir Chur chill’s, r egains an American ac cent with an upscale casual menu and attractive bar. $$ p f TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099. A historic theater building (long a landmark junque shop) lends a funk y atmosphere to Toast, a local breakfast and lunch favorite. Chef George Morris’s simple yet exciting menu adds a t ongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f

WESTPORT GENERAL S TORE 7008 Hw y 5 2 4, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour ’s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, proprietors Will and Laura Cr awford w elcome visit ors t o this c ozy destination, offering a comfortably sophisticated bill of f are that w ould in no w ay be out of plac e in a fancy city bistro. $$ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L f ans, W ing Z one e xcels with jumbo wings in 25 fla vors, including tr aditional Buffalostyle wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f XAVIER’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582-22 41.

Remodeled and r e-titled, the f ormer Bentle y’s restaurant in the Holida y Inn Do wntown off ers casual dining with a ne w name that e vokes memories of the historic old St. Xavier High School building that s tood on this sit e f or mor e than a century until 1963. $$ p

BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KIT CHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772 -9580. Big Momma’ s ma y be the mos t hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul f ood. A diff erent main c ourse is f eatured daily, all home-c ooked f ood, including such goodies as bak ed chick en, smother ed pork chops, meat loaf , catfish … and fried chick en every day. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ tw o” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett A ve., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germant own saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. T he parking lot of this whit e fr ame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend nights as f amilies from throughout the ar ea wait on delectable fried chick en. This is the v ery heart

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of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy , crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, aff ordable menu. $ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style c ookery in an array of lunch specials that r ange fr om homemade soups and sandwiches t o the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $

KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LONGINO’S 1506 Berry Blvd., 361-9153. Don’t let the Italian family name fool you, this local fixture near Churchill Do wns f eatures do wn-home c ooking, mostly, r anging fr om fried gr een t omatoes t o hearty meat loaf to “The Manhattan.” $ MR. L OU’S C OUNTRY C OTTAGE RES TAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s c ountry c ooking s tyle. R oast chick en is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $

COTTAGE INN 570 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 37-432 5. No w, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade tr ees on Eas tern P arkway not f ar fr om the Univ ersity of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $

NINNY’S-N-NEW ALBANY 506 W . Main St., Ne w Albany, IN, 941-1235. Home cooking like Mom used to mak e, as suming that Mom w as an e xcellent cook. T he Ninn y Bur ger is a signatur e it em, but you can settle down to a much more serious steak dinner for evening chow. $

DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-8686. $

O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner , not t o mention full bar servic e that mak es O’Dolly s a South west L ouisville destination. $ p f

D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the c ounters and booths of this clas sic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 72 99 Dixie Hw y., 2 71-3663. T he name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie High way deliv ers jus t what you’d e xpect in do wn-home c omfort f are. T he word on the s treet, though, is simple: Go f or the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, y ou can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that y ou set y our e xpectations f or hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hw y., 966-4 970, 140 2 C edar St., 2 58-2 540. Buff et s tyle family dining—one pric e, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-f ashioned comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet tas te t o the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou lik e y our eggs o ver eas y, or your cheesebur gers w ell done , y ou’ll lik e the Hazelwood R estaurant. Standar d short or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 32 6-9 777, 664 1 Dixie Hw y., 9953320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This chain serves up nos talgic dishes, cas seroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Mark et St., 77 8-5154, 4 901 Poplar L evel Rd., 964-5 749, 3353 F ern V alley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 535. Gr own fr om a tin y West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RES TAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . C ountry c ooking is Jes sie’s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS F AST FOOD 2 101 W . Br oadway, 77 2 -7138.

This tin y, c olorful W est End eat ery, open f or takeout only , off ers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $

OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410.

The original Our Bes t, an e xcellent family restaurant in the Henry County village east of Louisville, now expands to the big city with this fr anchised expansion, the first in a planned chain. $ $ TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 North western Pk wy., 77 65505. A rich and c olorful his tory surr ounds the century-old fr ame building in Portland that no w houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shak es, cherry C okes and an early bird “ trainer’s” br eakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing his tory on the w alls and serv ers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood c orner gr ocery store houses a delicious secr et: At the back y ou’ll find a s team table loaded with e xceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 84-2 66 7. T his bus tling eat ery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-42 30 . T his thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars f eaturing baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $

Discover Italian without leaving the country When it comes to classic Italian American food, Rocky’s Italian Grill does it right. Recipes passed down from generations. Homemade whole wheat pizza dough prepared daily. Garden fresh ingredients. Meatballs rolled every day by hand.

So whether you’re passionate about pizza or crazy about calzones, you’re sure to find your favorite Italian dish right here at Rocky’s.

Two convenient locations serving lunch and dinner for dine in or carry out.

HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 St ory A ve., 583-043 7.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40- year-old f amily-owned r estaurant kno ws how t o c ook f or f olks mis sing their home table .

Count on an att entive s taff and fr esh southern fare. $ JANIE’S CAFÉ 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 9442 400. Owned b y T roy Lancas ter, gr andson of Tommy Lancas ter, f ormer o wner of the cat ering house that s till bears the f amily name , Janie’ s Café—located in the small house tha t w as onc e home to Pigasus BBQ—offers down-home comfort fare. $

EatAtRockys.com 715 W. Riverside Dr. (off I-65, on the River) Jeffersonville, IN 812.282.3844

10206 Westport Rd. (off I-265, across from The Home Depot) Louisville, KY 502.339.0808

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JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W . Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Ja y’s modern, w ell-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane .

Hungry diners fr om all o ver t own find a w arm welcome at this popular West End location that ’s now run as a c ommunity-development pr ogram by two local churches. $ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 2 2 3 W . Fifth St., Ne w Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana cat ering king T ommy Lancaster, r ecalls the f amily’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gar dener’s lis t of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $ SOUTH SIDE INN 114 E. Main St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 945-5966. New Albany’s historic South Side Inn is dishing up caf eteria f are again under ne w ownership aft er ha ving been closed f or se veral months. It ’s s till serving do wn-home f are, in much-renovated and spruced-up surroundings. $

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, L ouisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater s weepstakes … but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that f eatures a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at F ourth Str eet Liv e on the ground level. $ p e INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, e xtreme fun, wher e f amily fun hits maximum o verdrive” is the pr omise at this giant dining and ent ertainment venue set to open this wint er in the 55, 000-square-foot spac e that once housed the R olling Hills Kr oger. It ’s not jus t for kids: Chef P atrick Dale , a Sulliv an Univ ersity graduate with 17 y ears of chef and management experience who helped cater the Grammy Awards in Los Angeles in 2006, plans an upscale menu in a signature dining room at the center of it all. $$ p JOE HUBER F AMILY F ARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 9 23-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute driv e fr om do wntown L ouisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation f or simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr emises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY S TRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Str eet Liv e, 560-1400. An upscale bo wling alle y? A clas sy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle r etro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f MY OLD KENTUCK Y DINNER TRAIN 602 N. T hird St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old K entucky Dinner T rain offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations ar e s trongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riv erside Rd., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1565. T he Ohio Riv er cruise is the bes t thing about this L ove Boat-s tyle y acht that makes nightly all- you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f STUMLER RES TAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 9 23-3832. Fresh produce 70 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chick en, big ham s teaks, r oast beef , and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f

FRESCO SOUTHWES T GRILL & PIZ ZA 2 047 L ytle St., 77 6-6077. L ocally o wned and oper ated but with development as a chain in its busines s plan, this comfortable, welcoming spot opened firs t in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Portland neighborhood, off ering f ast-food s tyle and a choice of w ell-made burritos and other Me xicanstyle goodies and pizza, t oo. $ f

ALEXANDER’S PIZ ZERIA 1611 Charles town-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$

FROLIO’S PIZ ZA 3799 Poplar L evel Rd., 456- 1000.

Just ar ound the c orner fr om the L ouisville Z oo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian- American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f

ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie , dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $ ANGIO’S RES TAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. T his small Buechel eat ery attr acts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with c old beer. $ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 44 9-4444. Annie’ s has made-t oorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef , Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ BEARNO’S PIZ ZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7437, 2 900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6101 Bardstown Rd., 2312 2 2 2 , 135-F Mark etplace Dr ., 95 7-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 267-2549, 1318 Bardstown Rd., 4564556, 8019 Preston Hwy., 968-6060, 9222 Westport Rd., 42 3- 12 2 4, 9 2 07 W . Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-9 388, 7 895 Dixie Hwy., 937-1234, 1923 S. Fourth St., 634-5155, 922 Chambers Blv d., Bar dstown, K Y, 348-4848, 300 2 Charlestown Cr ossing, Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 9-7914, 2784 Meijers Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3125, $ p BIG WILLIE’S PIZZA PUB 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 2610650. $ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ BRUNO’S PIZZERIA & PUB 1919 S. Preston, 634-1003. $$ p f CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, Ne w Albany, IN., 944-4 942 , 309 3 Br eckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hw y., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’ s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain serv es up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZ ZA 2 2 30 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 3-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up t oppings lik e ancho vies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of m y favorite local pizzerias. $ f e DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 6357994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZ ZA 682 5 C entral A ve., 2 43-1101.

Scott Hack’s new Italian spot, featuring pizza, subs and other Italian- American goodies in a spacious sports bar with a bask etball theme, is luring pizza lovers out to Crestwood for fine traditional pizzas plus such inno vative it ems as the pineappletopped Big Kahuna and, believe it or not, a baconcheeseburger pie. $ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGr ange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort A ve., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040; 1382 9 English V illa Dr., 2 44-0840; 5 2 8 S. Fifth St., 589-8559 . This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slic e of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pas ta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd; the Cr escent Hill eat ery reflects its urban setting. $

HERO’S NEW Y ORK PIZ ZA 10509 Watterson Trail, 2 61-9339. T his attr active v enue brings an authentic taste of New York to a historic building on Jeff ersontown’s T own Squar e. Her o’s sc ores with fans of crisp, thin-crust New York-style pizza, but don’t s top ther e: Many other Italian-s tyle goodies offer a taste of the Big Apple, too. $$ p f HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-4555, La Gr ange Squar e Shopping C enter, 2 2 2 -4444.

Pasta dishes, hoagies, s tromboli and c old beer ar e available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406.

Old-timers are delighted to see Jock amo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depart ed Bardstown Road. Some of the original o wners ( except the lat e Da ve Wilder) ha ve r ecreated the s tyle, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e LITTLE CAES AR’S PIZ ZA 816 K enwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 G alene Dr ., 2 6 7-8600, 562 2 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800 , 6 714 Out er L oop, 966- 3111, 12 418 LaGrange Rd., 2 41-5445. T his Detr oit-based pizzeria chain los t mark et shar e in the ’90s, but business analysts say the c ompany known f or its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ra y’s, this local pizzeria mak es good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled Ne w Y ork City -style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on jus t about e very s treet c orner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ MA ZERELLA S 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs serv ed for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 356708, 42 00 Out er L oop, 964-09 2 0. T his A ustinbased chain w as one of the firs t national pizzerias t o r each L ouisville in the 19 70s, and quality ingredients—plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids—ha ve made its crisp , thin-crus t pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in southern Indiana” is quit e a boas t, but pizza only t ells half of this tas ty s tory: NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub f ormerly kno wn as Rich O’ s, P ublican Roger Ba ylor’s r emarkable beer lis t, with mor e than 100 selections fr om around the w orld—plus locally brewed craft beers—has won international awards. A pizza lik e the f amous “Herba vore” (spinach, slic ed t omatoes and r oasted garlic ) makes a sizzling tr eat, with a w orld-class beer t o wash it down. $

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OAK S TREET PIZ ZA 12 5 E. Oak St., 585- 1788. T his tiny spot is built f or carry-out only: You can w alk out with a single slic e or a whole pie . It’s already winning applause fr om beyond its neighborhood for hand-t ossed, Ne w York-style pizza of e xceptional quality . Deliv ery is a vailable o ver a wide region. $ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 454-2 711. Impellizz eri’s pizza, a L ouisville ic on known and lo ved f or its mas sive pies f or a generation, has returned to the Highlands! Benn y Impellizzeri’s lat est v enture is alr eady attr acting happy cr owds t o the quart ers v acated b y Alameda. $$ p f PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962- 7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 16 1 Out er L oop, 36 1-3444; 460 7 Out er Loop, 964- 72 72 ; 12 535 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-9191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations ) “P apa” John Schnatter got int o the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3, 000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-t ossed dough. C ome and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 945-4405, 1066 K ehoe Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King is bak ed in a s turdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ PIZZERIA UNO CHICA GO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0079. This successful franchise serves up Chicago s tyle pizza—deep dish with more t oppings than crus t. Steaks, pas tas, sandwiches and bur gers c omplement the full service menu. $$ p PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-7220. $$ SICILIAN PIZ ZA & P ASTA 631 South 4th St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this do wntown storefront off ers good, s tandard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ SLICE OF NEW Y ORK 9910 Linn Station Rd., 3393553. An ownership change has bes towed a new name on the former Fat Tony’s Pizza in Plainview, but the primary attr action r emains authentic, thin-crust New York City-style pizza. $$ SNAPPY T OMATO (7 L ocations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-deliv ery chain based in Northern K entucky, Snapp y Tomato mo ved int o the Louisville market this summer, taking o ver all the pr operties v acated in Pizza Magia’ s demise .

Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ SPINELLI’S PIZ ZERIA 614 Baxt er A ve., 568-5665.

This tin y s torefront in the city’ s night club z one offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight cr owd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesdays thr ough Saturdays. Bett er y et, it giv es L ouisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 1-02 2 2 . Boombo zz wins pr aise f or www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 71

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exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style f are. T ony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-s tyle specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ TONY BOOMBO ZZ PIZ ZA & VINO 2 813 N. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 394-0000 . Flagship of the Boombozz flotilla, this Eas t End es tablishment takes the local mini-chain’s winning pizza concept to a higher level. The “fast casual” facility features the award-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis available at its other mos tly tak eout shops, but presents it f or dining in a s triking “urban loft ” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture t o add an upscale ac cent, plus w ellchosen wine and beer lis ts. $$ p TONY IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr ., 42 90606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old s trip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza s tyle, it ’s a tr eat not t o be missed. $$$$ VITO’S PIZ ZERIA 32 13 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s f ans sa y the sizzling, o ven-charred pies at this downscale little plac e on Pr eston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZ ZA PARLOR 975 Baxt er Ave., 458- 182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies ar e straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p WINDY CITY PIZ ZERIA 2 62 2 S. F ourth St., 6 363708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whiche ver option a pizza lo ver desires. $$ WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

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AMAZING GRA CE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “v egan” means only r aw carrots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alt ernative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached t o a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner provides the ne xt best thing t o a f amily cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhanc e the nostalgic theme. $ f BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & S ALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hik es Ln., 451-5480 . Sublime subs—fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ CAT BO X DELI 500 W . Jeff erson St., 56 1-62 59. T he name of this c ozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might w arrant a double-tak e, but its f eline theme and kitty cart oons earn a smile . Open f or breakfast and lunch, it off ers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $ p CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ 72 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

DANISH EXPRES S PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Jus t a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook int o a sit-in br eakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time . Full br eakfasts and light lunches ar e a vailable, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries ar e the specialty , and they’re fine. $ DEVINO’S 320 Main St., 56 9-3939. Right acr oss the street fr om L ouisville Slugger Field, this s tylish new deli adds another lunch and dinner option to the booming eas t-of-downtown z one.

Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar ’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the pr emises, with dining inside and on the patio; pack age beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DO WN T O L UNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eat ery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A do wntown deli f avorite. Daily specials ar e surr ounded by an impr essive v ariety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-3354, 980 Br eckenridge Ln., 89 3-3354, 300 W. Chestnut St., 992-3156, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 4263354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fr esh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines f orm f or sandwiches— subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and c old cuts. $ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, des serts t op off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW Y ORK DELI 62 47 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-9005. S mall and spartan, this tw oroom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 757 Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-1799. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

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JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 412-4101.

Don’t look f or New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at the ne w Hurs tbourne location f or o versize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. Eas t Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capic ola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 4000 Shelb yville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dut chmans Ln., 894-9 393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625- 7101, 1321 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-4515. This Illinois-based sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of standard-issue subs that benefit fr om fr esh quality ingr edients. W e’re particularly smitt en with the alt ernative br ead option, thick-sliced seven-grain. Try the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian treat. $ f JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slic e of L ouisville lif e, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the r eal thing. Neighborhood deniz ens drink coffee and cho w do wn on bur gers and br eakfast until the w ee hours (the joint is open 2 4 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chanc e he’ s sitting at

Juanita’s counter right no w, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 451-2 32 4. T he short-liv ed Baja Fresh occupied this ne w glass-walled building f or only a short time before leaving it vacant. Now the Just Fresh chain mo ves in, off ering fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $ f LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 949-7567. E very city needs a pos tage-stampsized spot that kno ws ho w t o fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback t o the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380 . T his appetizing oper ation off ers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a tas te of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet.

Make Lonnie’s the plac e to go when y ou’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA P ASTA 3717 L exington Rd., 896-6 361. L otsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local f avorite for more than 20 years. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic int ernational selection of sausages and cheese. A large sit-down section offers a comfortable plac e t o enjo y c offee, pas try and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. T his outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet his toric district, this f ashionable deli lur es the sa vvy business midday crowd. $ f MARKET ON MARKET 445 E. Market St., 568-8810.

Sharing the ground floor of the renovated, historic Cobalt building with Primo , this upscale mark et brings gr ocery options t o the gr owing liv e-in population east of downtown, and an inviting deli for sandwiches and salads, t oo. $ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2 72 1 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 6 71-2 42 4, 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133. Emphasizing quality customer servic e, this delicat essen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chick en t ortilla along with cutting boar d f avorites. T hey ha ve a special w ay with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ MORRIS DELI & CA TERING 2 2 2 8 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Man y locals s till kno w this small, popular Highlands deli as K arem Deeb’s aft er its longtime pr evious o wner. Mos tly f or tak eout—it packs in a f ew cr owded tables—it ’s kno wn f or high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ NANCY’S BA GEL GROUND S 2 101 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for har d-core “f oodies,” with e xtra cr edit f or friendly, welcoming service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food his tory r emains on an urban street c orner in Old L ouisville. It ’s one of the nation’s f ew surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ’70s. Ov ersize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $

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ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dr opping in t o someone’s home f or lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e unif ormly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or les s. $ PANERA BREAD CO. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 42 3- 7343, 10451 Champion F arms Dr ., 42 62 134, 3131 Poplar L evel Rd., 6 35-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-9400. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base f or a v ariety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot mak e Panera’s outlets popular gathering plac es. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4 946 Br ownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059 , 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-00 72 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces f or produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ PENN S TATION (14 L ocations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations ) T oasted br eads, a sandwich selection of meats, v eggies and fish ar e built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 58447, 12915 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s off ered jus t one kind of sandwich— “The Original”— when it opened its firs t eat ery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. T wo Guys and a Grill is no mor e, but one assumes that the grill r emains on the pr emises of this suburban luncheon spot under its new name $

TUSCANO’S 4100 Preston Hwy., 364-9998. Sharing space with the Noble R omans pizzeria, Tuscano’s adds a br oader menu of subs, sandwiches and wraps to Noble Roman’s pizza fare. $ W.W. C OUSINS RES TAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. T his locally o wned and oper ated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job , with huge bur gers on magis terial home-bak ed buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this bus y downtown deli will serv e in-house diners or tak e or ders f or deliv eries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 V alley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bak e’s ribs ar e smok ed t o such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue , fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$ BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7 508 Pr eston Hw y., 968-565 7.

Bootleg Barbecue off ers a t ouch of rus ticity and a good helping of c ountry hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell pr epared and affordable smok ed meats and fixin’ s. It ’s one of the f ew plac es in L ouisville wher e y ou can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666, 10 301 T aylorsville Rd., 2 6 1-0650, 7 117 Shelbyville Rd., 7 2 2 -0616. F eaturing hick orysmoked T ennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners, this long-time East End favorite has added two more neighborhood locations. $

CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsont own Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western K entucky-style barbecue is w ell w orth a special trip . Lik e man y mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ FAMOUS D AVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain oper ation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its e xuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the f ood, and Da ve’s e xcels with genuine , hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W .

Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork —all f or dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 39- 7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304, 2 11 S. Fifth St., 5401171, 86 10 Dixie Hwy., 995- 7585, 12 2 16 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-2 2 73.

Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pa ys homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. T he barbecue and c ountry fixin’ s s tand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in C orydon, IN, off ers a fine r ange of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be . $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’ s off ers e xceptionally good Texas-style barbecue fr om a little w ooden shack that looks jus t lik e a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f

SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 99-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2 000, 94 93 W estport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 9 30 Dr. W illiam W eathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles y ou will find such clas sics as chees y potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ THE S TARVING ARTIS T CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

8034 Ne w

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn f or cat ering and takeout fare. They cook just as w ell if y ou choose to stay in, though, off ering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY PATCH DELI 11616 Shelbyville Rd., 2541440. This Middletown deli offers healthy food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964- 1075. The hardy No . 19 , a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An arr ay of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. This new entry in the e xciting F elice Plaza eas t of downtown c ombines a small specialty -food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact r oof. Select fr om Blue Dog br eads, Boar’s Head meats and cheeses and other good things, and the y’ll build y our lunch t o dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f THEATER SQU ARE DELI 2 2 T heater Squar e, 5840364. T his popular do wntown eat ery thriv es through a simple , effective formula that packs in crowds daily: F eed the lunch bunch quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches. $ f www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 73

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KENTUCKY BBQ CO. 1800 Frankfort Ave., 895-3419.

The fast-moving Bourbon Brothers now turn up in their thir d Eas t End location, taking o ver the sizable Clifton quarters that Café Lou Lou vacated when it mo ved last year. The scene changes, but the food stays much the same: T hese guys know their smoked meat. $$ p f MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelb yville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 1570, 10 316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a f ormer f eed s tore with that do wn-home country f eel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauc e, the y ellow mustard-based variety. $$ f

and he boas ts e xperience in the kit chen at Vincenzo’s. A wide v ariety of meats—e ven goat— comes with exotic sauces that span the globe . $

DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Fr ankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f 19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f BEEF O’BRAD Y’S 2 39 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 32 7-8881, 3101 S. Sec ond St., 637-3737, 105 LaF ollette, 9 2 3-1316. If y ou think your basic sports pub is only suitable f or guy s guzzling beer, tak e another look: Beef O’Br ady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om Gener al Electric ’s Applianc e P ark, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $

BENTLEY’S SPORT S BAR & GRILLE 2 800 Crums Ln., 778-8886. The familiar range of bar and grill fare and libations will mak e the neighbors feel at home in this new West End watering hole. $ p

PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry busines s district. $ f

BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellw ood Ave., 89 34487. Good people , good f ood, c old beer: T he sign out fr ont says it all, and w e might add “ cool atmosphere” in pr aise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e

PIG CITY BBQ 12 003 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-3535.

Down-home and hones t, the name of this ne w barbecue eatery in a Middletown shopping center pretty much sa ys it all. Smok e ’em if y ou’ve got ’em—and they do with all cherry w ood. $$ f

BIG D AVE’S OUTPOS T 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 4599142. This casual, laid-back neighborhood saloon is a popular gathering plac e f or its Highlands neighbors, earning fans for libations, comfort and food that’s a notch above mere pub grub. $ p f e

PIT S TOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magis terial Dr., 2 536740. T his f amiliar old local br and, long a downtown fixtur e, no w off ers its smok y T exas barbecue in an Eas t End indus trial park jus t off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $

BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar . Riley died bef ore their dream came true . But no w O’C onnor pr oudly presides o ver this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e

RITE W AY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W . St. Catherine St., 584-9 385. Barbecue meis ter Kalvin Brown pr esides at this long-s tanding W est End favorite, kno wn f or its ribs and Southern-s tyle smoked meats since the end of World War II. $ f RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. T his South End f amily kno ws ho w t o do BBQ. It ma y be off the beat en path f or some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907.

“Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chick en t enders, sandwiches on more at this gr owing A tlanta-based chain, n ow open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A pr operty of Orlando’ s Dar den f astfood chain, which also runs Oliv e G arden, R ed Lobster and Bahama Br eeze, this nois y St ony Brook-area eat ery c onveys mor e of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, R oma’s adv ertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in t own. Burgers, chicken and s teaks are available as w ell, but w e r ecommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef . $$$ p

BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pk wy., 32 6-9830 . Restaurant o wner and namesak e K eith Br own used t o hos t neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home .

Now he brings the same sociable c oncept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closes t thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelb yville Rd., 899- 7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack -type f are, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f CHAMPIONS SPORT S RES TAURANT 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the s triking ne w downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub . $$ p f CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f

2 745 S. Hurs tbourne

VINCE S TATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42 , 2 2 8-742 7. A uthor V ince Stat en, who literally wr ote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name r emains on this neighborhood joint out the r oad in Oldham County. $

CONNOR’S PLACE 207 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-02 07. Da ve Himmel, onc e a partner in the popular Bistro New Albany, now has his own place in the Southern Indiana city’ s growing restaurant scene. Connor’s Place offers casual dining with a sports bar f eel in nic ely r enovated spac e in the historic Maytag Building. $ p f

WOOD CITY GRILL 612 S. Fifth St., 2 90-0518. T he lunchtime cr owds that flock t o W ood City find more than jus t another barbecue pit. Chef Allen Sims c omes fr om a long line of barbecue c ooks,

DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson C ounty C ourthouse around the c orner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems

74 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

as if it has been a hangout f or la wyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p

DUBLIN’S CELLAR 942 Baxter Ave., 583-2969. The former Wet Willy’s is gone, and those who used to feel uncomfortable about its alley entrance will be delighted to know that the fr ont door no w opens its friendly embrace to those in search of pub grub and music with a Hibernian ac cent. $ p f e DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do y ou lik e guitars with y our grub ? A popular half-way-home hangout f or decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned sinc e 195 2 , Flabb y’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s t op des tinations f or ine xpensive do wnhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxt er A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks t o this c ozy neighborhood pub . F or a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 9 30.

Steam-table servic e f eaturing spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attr act a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” c oncept oper ated b y a W ichita, K ansasbased chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with bur gers, pizza, chick en and pot r oast, in a large venue with plenty billiards tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. T hird St., 6 35-6475. A longtime gathering plac e f or U of L s tudents, faculty and f ans, this s turdy r edbrick ta vern jus t north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled f are plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t kno wn, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Critt enden Dr .

(Hilton), 6 37-2 42 4. L ocated in the L ouisville International Airport Hilt on. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e a vailable f or the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POS T INN 7314 F egenbush Ln., 2 394724. In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and liv ely c onversation, the Hit ching Pos t Inn offers an arr ay of pub grub , including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things t o drink all find their natural meeting plac e at this friendly neighborhood spot wher e hot wings and hoops r eign supreme. $ p f ICE BREAKERS 252 E. Market St., 618-2050. Picking up where a s tring of nightspot eat eries have left off in this arts-district venue, Ice Breakers bids for success with a simple , appetizing mix of soups, salads, sandwiches and pizza—and libations of course—with the grill menu a vailable until barclosing time. $ p f e

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INDIGO JOE’S SPORT S PUB & RES TAURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 42 3- 1633. L ouisville’s firs t outpos t of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’ s is a family-friendly American-style sports bar. It f eatures large portions and 44, c ount ’ em, 44 flat-scr een televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the sporting event of their choice. $$ p f

TURKEY JOE’S 2809 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-9464. $ p

JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $

ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and w elcoming neighborhood bar feeling. $ p f e

p

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarks ville, IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub t o include an a wesome smok ehouse burger and barbecued ribs so t ender, the y sa y, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat f alls off. $ p e JIMMY AND RICHIE’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 423-7774. $$ p f JP’S PUB & GRUB 5610 Outer Loop, 966-8223. $ p f THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. T his lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home c ooking and ta vern en vironment f or years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chick en and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ MAGGIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. Just off Jeff ersontown’s old Town Square, this new spot offers casual diner-style fare in a sports bar setting. $ f MICHAEL MURPHY’S RES TAURANT 701 S. Firs t St., 587-0013. This full servic e restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetit es for a couple of gener ations. Despit e the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2 630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e NV TAVERN 1202 Bardstown Rd., 45 2-6101. The little Cribstone Pub has closed, but this little Highlands eatery was too lovable to stay dark f or long. L ook for libations and appetizing bar f are here. $ p f e SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two r estaurants in one , Saints f eatures both a small, intimat e, candle-light ed r oom and a lar ger, happily bois terous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar . T he arriv al of Chef Alan Rosenberg holds pr omise f or a significant menu upgrade. $$ p e SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $ p e STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charles town Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar.

Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ p f TAILGATERS SPORT S BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41. Billed as a pr emier des tination f or good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’ s Stadium f eatures clas sic American favorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game room. $ p f e TENGO SED CANTINA 432 B F ourth St., 540- 1461.

“Tengo Sed” is Spanish for “I’m thirsty,” and if that’s your pr oblem, y ou can easily solv e it in this popular Latino-ac cented w atering hole in F ourth Street Liv e. A selection of Cancun-s tyle s tarters, tacos and sandwiches is available.. $$ p f THE BA CK DOOR 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41.

Longtime owners John Dant and Mik e E wing are known for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limit ed bar f are, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f THE MENU ON THE RIVER 100 Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. When Jimmy’s on the River v acated this riv erfront spot in Jeff , the proprietors of T he Main Menu in Ne w Albany saw an opportunity and t ook it, mo ving their entir e operation o ver her e, off ering pub grub and libations with a great river view. $ p f

VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ WOODY’S PUB & GRILL 12 2 05 Westport Rd., 32 78002 . F ormer home of a Hoops pub , W oody’s carries on the sports bar concept in this East End venue near the Ford Kentucky Truck plant. $ p f

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899- 7070, 6 36 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Squar e, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination f or beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew tr ail, but it ’s mor e than jus t a brewpub. BBC’ s management giv es equally serious att ention t o both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat plac e t o s top in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 4. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Br owning’s off ers br ewpub beers plus appetizing f are that e xtends w ell be yond mer e pub grub. $$ p f e

commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot f or Asian f are. A lo vely patio at the r ear aff ords an alfr esco dining e xperience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar L evel Rd., 451- 3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern L ouisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian f are, but it ’s a r eliable sour ce f or the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hw y., 968-46 72 . A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu it ems. $ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eat eries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

12 689 Shelb yville Rd., 2

45-

CUMBERLAND BREW S 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 458872 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Br ews ma y be one of the smalles t eat eries in t own. It ’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ f e

CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (see review under Pizza)

CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $

CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine t o L ouisville’s int ernational dining sc ene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. This friendly place recently moved from tiny quarters to this more inviting suburban location. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. T he r egion’s only fully authentic Ethiopian restaurant, offering a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a v ariety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chick en specialities. Ethiopian f are is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but the y’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $

DOUBLE DRA GON 12 55 Gos s A ve., 6 35-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-888 7. A s tandout among f astfood shopping-c enter Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out c onsistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping s trip, off ers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $

#1 A SIAN BUFFET 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 451-60 33.

Not jus t another in the her d of all- you-can-eat Chinese buff ets, this 350 seat eat ery is the firs t between-the-coasts outpos t of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$

DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The c ontinuing pr oliferation of look alik e, tas te alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happ y to report that Dynas ty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$

8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-3884. $

EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $

EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands s taple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. T he Sesame Chicken is one of our f avorites. $$ p

ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 85-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 4 79-9989. C ompetent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet off erings s tay fr esh and hot mak es these buffets a good choic e among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 L exington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng L ooi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Z en mas ter’s s tyle. C onsistent

EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6- 1717. One of L ouisville’s f anciest and most not eworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quart ers ar e s tylishly s trewn acr oss multiple le vels of a f ormer suburban mo vie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s first serious, authentic upscale www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 75

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Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $ GOLDEN S TAR CHINESE RES TAURANT 368-1833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. T his Clifton r estaurant r anks high up in the f ast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ GREAT W OK 2 502 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-1918. Jus t about every shopping c enter in t own has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ HAPPY DRA GON 2 600 W . Br oadway, 77 8-2 573.

Catering t o offic e and r esidential cus tomers, this Chinese restaurant has served the West Broadway community for many years. $ f HONG K ONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 Ne w Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG K ONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y int ernational eat eries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot off ers Cantonese s tandards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893082 2 . Y et another lar ge, shin y, all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et f eaturing mos tly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’v e got a hank ering f or brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time , but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Frida y through Monda y, when it off ers the metr o ar ea’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr ., 2 44-8896. A charming Asian eat ery, wher e y ou can enjo y familiar Chinese-American plat es or indulge y our more adv enturous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo off ers a s tandard all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buff et offers a s tandard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’ s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eat eries, King W ok off ers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurs t Blv d., 42 5-0188.

Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining r ooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine ChineseAmerican dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping c enter location, Ling Ling is a cut abo ve f ast-food Chinese; bett er y et, it adds a f ew V ietnamese dishes to the bill of f are. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9898.

Small but charming, with whit e tablecloths and soft Chinese music, f amily-run Liu’ s gains our 76 Winter 2008 www.foodanddine.com

approval with fr esh, c ompetent c ookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed ric e) set this airy r estaurant apart fr om the horde of other Asian spots. $$

WONTON EXPRES S 3000 Hik es Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. F amily-owned-andoperated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patr onage f or seventeen years. $ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800 . T his locally o wned and operated Oxmoor spot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all o ver Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched b y sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. T enth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $

ORCHID ASIAN CAFÉ 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 948-888 7. Pr oprietor Dann y T ran is a r ecent arrival fr om Ohio , wher e his f amily o wns and operates se veral r estaurants. His Ne w Alban y entry offers Chinese and a broader range of Asian fare in an upscale atmospher e that plac es it w ell above the chopsticks-house category. $ f

YUMMY CHINESE RES TAURANT Preston Hwy. $

ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldes t continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a not ch under ne w o wners, f eaturing both tr aditional Chinese- American and no w, authentic Cantonese. $ p

SARI S ARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2 339 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-0585. T he city’s sole Filipino eat ery off ers a tasty intr oduction t o the Mala yo-Polynesian f are of this Southeas t Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buff et. $

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch ar ea.

This es tablishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ PANDA CHINESE RES TAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ RED PEPPER CHINESE CUISINE 2 901 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8868. W ith a skilled Sichuanese chef who’s owned a r estaurant in Chicago’ s Chinatown and c ooked at Chinese embas sies ar ound the world, Red Pepper starts out in the top tier of local Chinese r estaurants. Chinese- American s tandards are w ell done , but w e r ecommend the authentic Chinese menu, which is available in English $ RED SUN CHINESE RES TAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-042 8, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 4 918228. $ SESAME CHINESE RES TAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not jus t another shopping-c enter Chinese r estaurant, this Eas t End eat ery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 4 93-02 34. T hirteenth C entury Mongol warriors used t o turn their s teel shields t o use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Sahn”s carries their spirit f orward. This allyou-can-eat buffet is fun, and the f ood is fine. $$ p SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y f avorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the t est of time, Sichuan G arden off ers high-end Chinat own style and w ell-made dishes, plus a f ew T hai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $ THE TEA S TATION CHINESE BIS TRO 9442 Norton Commons Blvd., 42 3-12 02 . Not jus t another f astfood chopsticks house, this comfortable, sit-down Chinese restaurant owned and operated by James and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of busines ses in the Nort on C ommons village center. $$ f WOK EXPRES S 2 34 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $

968-7450, 8605

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding int ernational flair t o its do wntown neighborhood, Bendo ya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront jus t acr oss the street from the courthouse. $ CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual) FUJI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurs t Blvd., 339- 1978, 12 905 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-00 36.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get t o w atch the chef at w ork. Put in y our order, then sit back, sip y our t ea while the artis t creates edible delights. T his suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p HANABI J APANESE RES TAURANT 602 7 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 2 8-82 44. A hospitable w elcome, casual setting, and w ell-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties ha ve made this r ecent Prospect arrival a worthy addition to the East End dining scene. $$ p HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln. Japanesetrained sushi chef Norihik o Nakanashi has earned quite a local f ollowing at Shogun. No w he brings his sushi knives to this new sushi bar and Japanese grill set f or March opening in W estport Village. In addition t o fine dining at the bar or in tr aditional Japanese tatami r ooms, Hik o A Mon will off er sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ICHIBAN S AMURAI 1510 Lak e Shor e Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This lar ge Japanese-f armhouse building housed Benihana f or man y y ears. Ne w management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional slic eand-dice f ood sho w and good sushi. Bes t deal, while the off er lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p KANSAI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-9 2 38. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available here, but like most Japanese St eakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slic e-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p KIMIS ASIAN BISTRO 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2631915. This upscale Asian bis tro in the f ar East End blends traditional Japanese f are with Chinese and Korean fla vors, r anging fr om sushi t o inno vative Pacific Rim “fusion” dishes. $$ p

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KOBE S TEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is dr awing crowds with its e xceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not jus t another sushi bar , c ool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s firs t and only “izakaya”-style r estaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the r egion surr ounding Japan’ s sec ond city , Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados sa y it ’s los t a s tep sinc e the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 .

Raw mak es good use of hip quart ers in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners ma y choose fr om a br oad selection of c ompetent sushi and Japanese f air, plus fine int ernational seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e SAKURA BL UE 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St. Matthews shopping c enter, Sak ura Blue—dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ SAPPORO J APANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. T rendy, e ven glitzy , with har d-edged indus trial dec or—and mos t important, e xcellent f ood—Sapporo r anks in m y ratings as the city’ s No . 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p SHOGUN J APANESE S TEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-5700, 4 110 Hampt on Lak e Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality f ood and servic e mak e it a pleasant dining des tination. It ’s unthr eatening enough t o appeal t o those who find e xotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in servic e, and mos t important, this East End sushi bar serv es e xcellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$

ARIRANG 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9838. For many years a hidden jewel in the Buechel ar ea, this fine Korean restaurant-plus-sushi-bar reopened recently in the f ormer quarters of Oriental Expr ess in the Middletown area. $ p KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s f ew r estaurants de voted entir ely t o authentic Korean fare, Koreana is w orth a special trip f or this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. T his little spot has been a secr et sinc e the ’70s, and it jus t k eeps on going. W alk int o what looks lik e a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter t o the back r oom, wher e y ou’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$ PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA L OUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 295-2 441. This popular Highlands spot boasts an edgy, high-tech Japanese style, complete with a liv e video w all. L ook f or light er Asian f are, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 77

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MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eat ery t o beat among the metr o ar ea’s T hai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (St ony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai off ers L ouisville an upscale T hai alt ernative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and c ertainly the mos t upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-96 70. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wif e, a clas sically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made o ver this little St. Matthe ws spot, off ering a small menu of tr aditional T hai dishes, w ell-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed int o a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Sno w and her f amily off er a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $ THAI SIAM 3002 Bar dstown Rd., 458-68 71.

Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a lo yal audienc e o ver the y ears, perhaps r esponding t o its r egular visit ors’ preferences with f ood that ’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana. T he “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared T hai f are. Don’t ask f or the fiv e-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . T he owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangk ok before moving t o L ouisville, and his e xperience sho ws.

The w armth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 36 3-4847. Annie Café r anks not jus t as one of m y f avorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when v alue and pric e are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ CAFÉ MIMOS A 12 16 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back t o the ’80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management s till offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as w ell as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-7110, 106 F airfax A ve., 893-7757. L emongrass Café off ers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, T hai and Chinese f are in a simple setting that tr anscends an ob viously lo w budget with style and grace. $ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-92 49.

Tiny and lo vably c ozy, this six -table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so are the proprietors. T here’s some language barrier , but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ VIETNAM KIT CHEN 5339 Mitscher A ve., 36 3-5154.

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seeking out. T he chef goes be yond the or dinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden pas ses this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-c enter s torefront has bec ome a popular aft er-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing c ommunity of immigr ants fr om Bosnia, for whom it ’s a c omfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ BOSAN-MAK 382 5 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1919.

Friendly and e xceptionally hospitable , f amilyowned BosnaMak c elebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a f ew culinary additions from their time in German y. $ f DJULI 5312 S. T hird St., 368-5199 . Bosnian f are is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 4 99-882 2 . F or a city with a s trong German heritage, L ouisville is w oefully short on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel f amily c omes s traight fr om Ba varia t o Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. T he setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S 392 1 Shelb yville Rd., 895- 12 12 . Owner Tom O’Shea (also of Flannigan’ s and O’Shea’s) has done a great job of endowing this old St. Matthews saloon with an upscale f eel, gourmet-s tyle dining options and a very popular bar. $$ p e IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful plac e for a tall glas s of Guinnes s, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MAL ONE’S 933 Baxt er A ve., 4 73-12 2 2 . A carefully c onstructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxt er Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an as sortment of beers ma y be tr aditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub , from the chees y fries t o the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-ac cented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

AMERIGO 1871 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 42 6-4040 .

Chef Anthony Lorie, once a chef at RAW and later a co-owner of Bluegr ass Bistro in the Derb y City Antique Mall, no w tak es the helm of this ne w Italian-style East End spot, first Louisville outpost of a small but growing Nashville-based chain that has won applause for quality. $$$ p f AMICI´ 316 Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Sc ott Risinger hos t this in viting Italian-style r estaurant that brings a t ouch of Tuscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 32 6-5555. Y ou don’t ha ve t o be an Italian gr andfather t o pla y bocce, now that ther e are several venues around town f or this amiable game . T he six -court suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by sportscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eat ery, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant dec or of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p CARRABBA’S IT ALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 4 12 -2 2 18. Not y our or dinary suburban shopping-center fr anchise eat ery. T his plac e dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil t o firs t-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 85- 1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pr etty much lik e an y other neighborhood saloon. But unlik e mos t L ouisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p DAVINCI BY LENTINI’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 2 450205. This East End branch of the popular ItalianAmerican f avorite is no w open in the old Buckhead Mountain Grill spac e near Middlet own. $$$ p f FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 y ears, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmospher e, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “T hey do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LA GALL O ROS SO BIS TRO 132 5 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alle y, f ormerly home t o Butterfly G arden (which mo ved nearb y), is no w back in busines s with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f LENTINI’S 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-0607. This 45year-old Highlands landmark has had its ups and downs and has been through several openings and closings since “Sonny” Lentini retired and sold the business in 2001. It’s open now, under a third set of owners. $$$ p f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. T he American-ac cented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it ’s good, featuring a short but div erse selection of hearty pas tas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Mark et St., 540-99 75. Adjacent t o the locally o wned and oper ated Felice Vineyards on Eas t Mark et, Melillo’ s off ers hearty and

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delicious home-s tyle Italian- American f are—and you can enjoy it with a glas s of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of this national firm. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9 730 V on Allmen Ct., 42 5- 3607, 12 30 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates mor e than 500 pr operties and bills itself as the leading Italian r estaurant in the casual dining indus try. Hearty pas tas of all shapes and sauc es, appetiz ers and c ombo platters all carry the Italian theme . $$ p PESTO’S IT ALIAN RES TAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offic es f or blocks ar ound empty int o this bus tling Italian eat ery f or w eekday lunches featuring hearty platt ers of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Satur days, the kit chen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e t o see and be seen—and, while y ou’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this eff ort may be his best y et. W ell-crafted Italian specialties r ange from pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, with a fine, all-Italian wine lis t t o go along; all serv ed with panache in sleek quart ers dominat ed b y a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p f PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 721-0170. A small but gr owing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property in the Shelb yville R oad Plaza spac e that onc e housed Payless shoes. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian- American dishes ar e serv ed in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-55 75. Old-f ashioned Italian- American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parrella’s, the latest venture of a family that ’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 - 3844, 10 2 06 W estport Rd., 339-0808. Now celebrating their 30th anniv ersary, this longtime f avorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choic e of Italian- American entrées, with a great vie w of the city fr om the Jeff ersonville riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MA CARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-9 2 2 0. T he Italian-s tyle menu at this casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Out er L oop, 96 9-5545, 2 669 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9445400. Bak ed pas ta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ STEVE-O’S IT ALIAN KIT CHEN 42 05 W . Hw y. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner w ell worth a special trip out from the city. $ STRATTO’S 318 W. Lewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarksville, IN, 945- 3496. Sam Anderson—kno wn t o locals from his Sam’s Food & Spirits—offers a full dinner

menu with ac cents from all Italy’ s regions, plus a good wine lis t t o mat ch. Str atto’s e xpanded 140-seat patio is a popular plac e on summer evenings. $$ p f e TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. A dding an appetizing option t oa stretch of the South End that hasn’t been o verserved by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut R oad boas ts a Me xican chef who demonstrates an e xpert’s hand with hearty , redsauced Italian- American f are at a pric e that ’s right. $ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatr a, pas ta with t omato sauc e and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a not ch. W ith a c ombination of Italian s tandards and monthly menu updat es, Chef Josh Moor e and hos t Majid Gha vami ha ve secured V olare as the city’ s t op spot f or sua ve Italian dining. $$$ p f

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955.

From C entral Spain, authentic Cas tilian f ood ranging from tapas t o a memor able paella mak e this Highlands s tandby a unique e xperience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$ LA BODEGA 1604 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955. Ne xtdoor t o the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega off ers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-s tyle tapas bar , f eaturing the small bites originally invented in the out door cafés of Jerez. $$ p f MOJITO TAPAS RES TAURANT 2 2 31 Holida y Manor Shopping C enter, 42 5-094 9. Gift ed y oung chef Fernando Martine z (also of Ha vana Rumba) hits the culinary jackpot with this Eas t End hot spot.

His int ernational a rray of Spanish inspir ed small plates (“ tapas”), imposing paella and libations has won critical ac claim and made Mojit o a local favorite. $ p f PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine .

Steaks sear ed on authentic parrillada char coal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s e xcellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown R oad and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. T he expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good v alue. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8765. One of the city’ s mos t popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian f are. $$ f ROYAL INDIA 4123 Oechsli Ave., 896-0025. Related by f amily t o K ashmir R estaurant in L exington, Royal India off ers a br oad menu of tr aditional Northern Indian f are. What ’s more, it is curr ently the only place in Louisville where you can find the tasty vegetarian cuisine of Southern India. Highly recommended. $$ p SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 93-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full r ange of dinner items, it has built a lo yal clientele. $ p

SITAR INDIAN CUISINE 1702 Bar dstown Rd., 4 738889. Named aft er the Indian s tringed musical instrument that Ra vi Shankar made f amous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buff et. It’s the first Louisville property for a tin y new chain with f our places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$

AL WATA N 3713 Klondik e Ln., 454-4406. Clas sic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a des tination f or lo vers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and int ernational menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-s tyle, just about 24/7. $ p f GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 7-1774. Yet another Middle Eas tern eat ery, y et another good ine xpensive sour ce of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f GYROS CAFÉ 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This small Highlands spot is s trategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quickservice setting. $ OCEANSIDE RES TAURANT 3707 Klondik e Ln., 454-3737. T his Hik es Point spot, run b ya friendly Mor occan c ouple, off ers a v ariety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eas tern accent.

A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $ OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $ PITA DELIGHT S 1616 Grins tead Dr., 56 9-112 2 . T his Near Eas tern eat ery in the Highlands off ers a splendid mix of gyr os, f elafel and other pitabased goodies. $ f ROAD T O MOROC CO 308 W. Ches tnut St., 3 765855. You can br owse Moroccan arts and cr afts and pick up a bottle of Mor occan wine at this little shop in the r enovated Henry Cla y building downtown, and s tay f or a light lunch that features Mor occan dishes and a br oader r ange of Middle Eastern fare. $ f e SAFFRON’S 131 W . Mark et St., 584- 7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant f ar be yond a mer e ethnic eat ery.

Stylish dec or, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a level of car eful, pr ofessional servic e w orthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. $$$ p SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. F ourth St., 585-112 5. You can get s tandard American f are at this w elcoming do wntown quick -eats spot, but who’d do that when y ou can enjo y such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SAHARA CAFÉ 3701 L exington Rd., 895- 1338.

Gyros, f alafels and other f amiliar Middle Eas tern dishes ar e w ell pr esented in this small, ne w restaurant in a new St. Matthews retail block. $ f SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2 011 Fr ankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 6-9954.

Offering some of the mos t authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking you’ll find an ywhere, Shiraz has grown out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and c olorful s torefront in the ne w Clift on Lofts complex and now a second spot in the East End; Shir az shines with char-grilled k ebabs, fine pitas and cr acker-like la vash br ead and adds a wider variety of Persian delights. $

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J. GUMBO’S 2 109 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-4046; 94 7 Baxter A ve., 454-550 7; 531 L yndon Lane , 42 50096; F ourth Str eet Liv e, 589-9 2 45; 666 1 Dixie Hwy, 995-8805; 3115 S. 2 nd St., 36 3-8888; 4005 Summit Plaza Dr., 326-3070. Rapidly expanding in its bid to grow into a regional chain, this excellent, affordable s tring of Cajun eat eries has changed its c orporate name (fr om Gumbo A Go-Go ) t o avoid trademark conflicts with a similarly named chain. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320, 4308 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9482 080. Fine , filling and authentic L ouisiana-style fare is the dr aw at Joe’ s. A length y menu and bayou fishing-shack dec or sho wcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

CUBA LIBRE 702 Highlander Point, Flo yds Knobs, IN, 923-2822. The hills above New Albany may seem an unexpected place for a Cuban r estaurant, but owner and chef Bertha Br andon—a recent arrival with her husband fr om Miami—is c ooking up tas ty and authentic Cuban cuisine in r enovated spac e that formerly housed a Tumbleweed. $$ p f e HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Ha vana, this bright, in viting Cuban restaurant is sibling t o the equally popular Mojit o Tapas Restaurant. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojit o bar , ha ve earned Havana Rumba a plac e on m y short lis t of local favorites. $ p f TASTE OF J AMAICA 2 017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner Warren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine t o a city t oo long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Baz o’s Fr esh Me xican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f CANCUN MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e DON PABLOS MEXICAN KIT CHEN 940 E. L ewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 84- 1071. Based in Atlanta, this Me xican-American chain, off ers full bar servic e and a v ariety of dishes that r ange from sizzling f ajitas t o crisp salads t ossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hw y., 96 9-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr ., 4 73-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 515 E. High way 131, Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has f ostered a happ y tr end: e xcellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2 345 Fr ankfort A ve., 899-99 30. T his crowded, noisy little Cr escent Hill s torefront offers creative r enditions of Me xican r egional specialties that mak e mos t diners w ant t o y ell “Olé!” T he setting ma y lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f EL NOP AL 9473 W estport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7, 42 14 Out er

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Loop, 968-2566, 12937 Shelbyville Rd., 253-6802, 652 1 P aramount P ark Dr ., 968-9836, 12 600 Taylorsville Rd., 2 40-602 2 . As sociated with the same family that runs the smaller El Nopalit o, (or “the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) off ers similar delicious, authentic and ine xpensive Mexican f are in some what lar ger and mor e comfortable surroundings. $ p f EL NOP ALITO 402 8 T aylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-42 49, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 89 3-9880. T his modes t little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find c omidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a f amily from Mexico, it ’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hik es Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ f EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL TARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 2 41-2 32 0, 542 5 Ne w Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 F airfax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-9 373, 4 12 S. First A ve., LaGr ange, K Y, 2 2 5-5995. A dd El Tarasco to the happ y new genre of r estaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmospher e, but that r each out t o Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ EL TORO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 4 91-72 72 . One of the t op Me xican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns my recommendation f or f ood, servic e and en vironment.

Tex-Mex dishes ar e fine , but sa ve r oom f or the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 89 3-92 97, 77 07 Pr eston Hw y., 962-5380, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291.

One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally owned Me xican r estaurant gr oups, Ernes to’s remains c onsistently r eliable. Fr om the crisp y home-fried chips t o filling Mexican main c ourses and tas ty des serts, it ’s a w orthy des tination f or good Me xican f ood and e xcellent v alue in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL Dr., 425-9144. $ p

1132 0 Maple Br ook

KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be L ouisville’s mos t s tartling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ LA HERRADURA 615 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible t o enjo y truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and y ou speak only English ?

These friendly f olks mak e it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling s taff make you feel at home.$ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2 840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. Y ou ma y w ant t o bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, where English is sometimes t entative. It ’s w orth the eff ort though, f or e xcellent authentic Me xican seaf ood and fish dishes that go w ell be yond taqueria status. $$

LA PERLA DEL PACIFICO 4906 Preston Hwy., 9694445. (Not r elated t o the same named Goose Creek restaurant) $ LA ROSIT A T AQUERIA 1515 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944- 362 0, 113 Gr ant Line R oad, 9487967. One of m y f avorite authentic Me xican eateries in the metr o. The Market Street location, a historic old storefront, offers an extended menu of authentic Me xican f are; the Gr ant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria f are. $ f LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the f ood is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e int o a r eal bargain. $ f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6- 3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U .S. Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. A uthentic Mexican cuisine has bec ome a viable option in L ouisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, cr eative appetizers and c omfortable seating, L os Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 1-9770, 7 30 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 23-2929.

“Why ha ve T ex-Mex when y ou can ha ve Me xMex?” is asked in fun on the serv ers’ T-shirts. This eatery is w ell worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Mark et St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned f our-star pr aise f or y ears with his cr eative tak e on Ma yan (Y ucatan/ Guatemala) cuisine at Mayan Gypsy. Now, after a brief closing, he’ s back in smaller quart ers but the same inspiring cuisine . $$ MEXICAN FIES TA 5414 Bar dstown Rd., 7 62 -0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ MEXICO TIPIC O RES TAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s firs t authentic Me xican eat eries, Mexico T ipico has built a lo yal f ollowing in f or good Me xican f ood and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e PUERTO V ALLARTA 42 14 Charles town Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 945- 3588, 12 5 Quart ermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 9 70 Br eckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 860 2 Citadel W ay, 4 93-9606, 30 2 1 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 94 1-9654, 1321 Herr Ln., 6 18-3622.

This chain oper ation e xtends fr om L ouisville t o Frankfort and L exington. F ast-foodish in s tyle, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks lik e another tac queria but the specialty, Me xican-style r oasted chick en, tak es it to another le vel, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden br own. Chick en simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RES TAURANT 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p

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SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. T hird St., 6 34-3722. This tiny eat ery in a c entury-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Do wns ne ver f ails t o satisfy with genuine Me xican tac os and other simple fare at pric es that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SENOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 2 80-8555. One Me xican chain r estaurant, Habanero’s, moves out another moves in, and all’s well for those who lo ve Mexican food in a casual sports-bar atmosphere. $ f p SOL AZTECA S 2 42 7 Bar dstown R oad, 459- 7776.

Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of L os Aztecas eateries and the short-liv ed Olmeca’s, brings his br and of authentic Me xican fare t o this Douglas s L oop location. F ans of L os Aztecas will find f amiliar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 44 9-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962 , the same y ear as T aco Bell w as born in Southern Calif ornia, T he Taco Tico chain has been gone fr om L ouisville f or mor e than a decade. Its happ y r eturn has been dr awing remarkable cr owds out t o this South west Louisville location. Us, too. $ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Pr eston Hw y., 969-4449. T he tac os ar e fine at this tin y storefront. T his is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thor oughly w elcome, the s taff is bilingual, and the y will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ TEQUILA MEXICAN RES TAURANT 7803 Old T hird Street Rd., 368-3591. $

MOE’S SOUTHWES T GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 89 3-6637, 12 001 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-62 50, 10 2 0 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-66 37, 9372 Cedar Center W ay, 6 14-772 2 . T he f ood ma y be mor e fast-food Me xican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border f are, but it is fr eshly made from quality ingr edients and c omes in o versize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer P ark Dr., 412-2461.

A c ontemporary spin on tr aditional f avorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to mar garitas in a setting that emulat es Old Mexico décor. $$ p f SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 2 85 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 89 7-532 3. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that f eatures gigantic burrit os made t o or der. Its c olorful fr ee-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ).

Tumbleweed, which s tarted as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Alban y, e ventually came t o dominate L ouisville’s Tex-Mex niche with c olossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and spicy chili c on queso. But what s tarted as a sideline , mesquit e grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main dr aw. T hese da ys, diners ar e mor e lik ely t o dig int o a grilled s teak and bak ed potat o than a burrito. With its Southwest focus, large and varied menu and added wine lis t, “The Weed” still draws diners in droves. $$ p f

BUFFALO MADISON C OFFEE C OMPANY 701 Eastern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-8559 , I US Campus Libr ary, 94 1-2 699. These locally o wned coffee shops ar e fine plac es t o enjo y a c offee drink and a pastry. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f CLEO’S C OFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f COFFEE TREAT CAFÉ 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 582-2408 $ DAY’S ESPRES SO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170. Dark and c ozy, with an old-fashioned f eeling, Da y’s has e verything y ou would e xpect in a c ollege-neighborhood c offee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $

BEAN S TREET CAFÉ 101 Laf ollette Station, Flo yds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1404. Bean Str eet intr oduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, the y’re not jus t an eat ery, but a cultural hangout. $ f

SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (32 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-RO ASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o r oast their o wn c offee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pr o—the result is Suner gos C offee, another in the gr owing cadre of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545 $

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -2 665. If y ou need something f or y our s weet t ooth and w on’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the cr aving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this c ozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f

DERBY CITY ESPRES SO 331 E. Mark et St., 442 052 3. L ouisville’s r oster of serious c offee shops continues t o gr ow. Pla ying the local car d, it features quality c offee beans r oasted b y Sunergos, A tomic Sauc er and Jackson’ s Or ganic Coffee, plus fine tea and, coming soon, light lunch fare and pastries. $ f e

THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their busines s, this e xcellent es tablishment is part of the culinary pr ogram at Sulliv an University. It ’s har d t o beat the quality br eads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $

EXPRESSIONS OF Y OU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e

BREADWORKS 362 8 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $

HEINE BRO THERS C OFFEE 2 714 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-5551, 12 95 L ongest A ve., 456-5108, 2 2 00 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 8935103. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee r oasted on the pr emises and a short lis t of pas tries, des serts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outs tanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Off ering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s t op Internet cafés, wher e y ou can enjo y a hot cappuccino while y ou surf the ’net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING C O. 3700 P aoli Pik e, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. HobKnobb off ers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B US Hwy 42, 2922 710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-56 77, F ourth Str eet Liv e, 56 12 041, 2 309 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8060 . T hese casual spots boas ts the ambienc e of a friendly old-fashioned book shop , with c omfortable seating, a good selection of pas tries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f LA VIDA JAVA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4 12-9393.

Joining the city’s growing ranks of coffee shops, La Vida Ja va is one of the firs t f ood options in the recently r enovated W estport V illage shopping center. $ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 6 37-5399. $

child-friendly. L ook f or quality or ganic c offee roasted on the pr emises and v egetarian/vegan snacks. $ f e

COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ COCO’S CHOC OLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bar dstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal choc olates and baked goods made on the pr emises mak e this tin y Highlands spot a s tylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of c offee. $ f DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 92 19 US Hw y. 42 , 2 2 8-8959 . Helen Friedman has earned a lo yal client ele sinc e the 19 70s with her elegant cak es, t empting pies and t ortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville ar ea sinc e y our gr eat-aunt w as a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily , the pies, cakes, c ookies and specialty pas tries pr ovide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nos talgic. Enjo y the homet own soda fountain with ic e cr eam while y ou w ait f or y our hand-decorated birthda y cak e, br eakfast r olls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing c ollection of cak es, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf t eas, in this cozy little spot. $

PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e RAY’S MONKEY HOUSE & KID CAFÉ 1578 Bardstown Rd., 2 12 -4338. A v ery nic e fit with its crunch ygranola Highlands neighborhood, this “progressive coffee shop and gathering plac e” is c onsciously www.foodanddine.com Winter 2008 81

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

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11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

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SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

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louisville • 424 south 4th street located at 4th street live! phone: 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com

©2007 Hard Rock Cafe International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Since 1982, our passion for teaching has produced some of the finest chefs, cooks, pastry chefs, catering professionals and hotel & restaurant managers in the country. With 100% graduate employment since the beginning, our passion really pays.

Call Today to See What We Can Do For You!

i n m u l A n a v i l l Su 3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205 502.456.6505 • sullivan.edu • 800.844.1354

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Come celebrate 25 years at the NCHS Reunion on April 25 & 26 with events on campus and at Churchill Downs! For further details visit www.sullivan.edu/reunion or call 800-844-1354, ext. 8880.

1/16/08 12:52:13 PM