Fall 2010 (Vol. 29)

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FALL 2010 | AUG - SEP - OCT

all about bison

900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

profiles

(pictured) Proof on Main’s bison carpaccio – shaved radish, parmesan, asparagus and extra virgin olive oil

proof|blind pig|westport general store

craft cocktail renaissance www.foodanddine.com

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

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FALL 2010 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SARAH FRITSCHNER BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS MARTY ROSEN J. CHRISTIAN WALSH CONTRIBUTING CHEFS DAVID MOELLER DAVID WALLS CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL M. SMITH IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

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(502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: Proof on Main’s bison carpaccio — shaved radish, parmesan, asparagus and extra virgin olive oil. (see story page 26) 4

Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Photo by Dan Dry

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contents

FALL 2010

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR) Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

Now with expanded coverage.

FEATURE

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THE NEW CRAFT COCKTAIL ERA Recent years have seen the rise of scratch-made cocktails.

Local restaurant bars are creating new variations on classic ideas using house-made and other carefully selected ingredients.

PROFILES STEVE WILSON A gentleman farmer’s impact on Louisville.

THE BLIND PIG Gastro-pub lands in Louisville’s Butchertown.

WESTPORT GENERAL STORE Hidden gem with upscale Southern cuisine is worth the journey.

52 82 16

26 40 44

COLUMNS STARTERS

40

Tracking changes on the local restaurant scene with openings, closings, and more.

SIDE DISHES Who’s doing what in the local culinary landscape. Chef moves, events, awards, restaurant changes and more.

FROM THE EDITOR: Why bison?

From ancient forests and savannahs of Kentucky comes a native food that helps define our local cuisine as naturally delicious.

LIQUIDS CORK 101: Top 5 wines Our resident Master Sommelier offers up his top five wine choices of the past year.

16

COFFEE: Tracing the java road We track the evolution of the coffee house — from the first one in 1475 to today’s modern day shoppes.

HIP HOPS: Cans vs. bottles More craft beers are finding their way into cans and that’s not such a bad thing.

RECIPES EASY ENTERTAINING: Game night

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COMINGS & GOINGS

Keeping it easy and fun is as simple as hot dogs and board games.

A party perfect for bringing all the generations together.

COOKING CLASS: Cooking with bison Sullivan University chef instructors offer up four bison recipes.

10 14 22 24 38 32 48

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010

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starters comings & goings

comings

& goings

A number-crunching data miner examining the ratios of openings to closings in the Louisvillearea restaurant world this past calendar quarter would likely conclude that the market is strong enough to be holding its own, and might even be showing signs of growing. Though no major destination dining white tablecloth places have opened, 20 diverse, intriguing new restaurants — tea houses, bars and grills, casual dining spots, barbecue joints, cafés and ethnic eateries — opened their doors, and seven existing restaurants expanded with new locations.

Those 27 newcomers are balanced against 15 closings, and four of those locations were quickly “flipped,” as the jargon has it, with new owners willing to try new dining concepts at established locations. None of the closings were from the top end of the local dining scene, though their fans will miss long-time favorites such as Masterson’s at 1830 S. Third Street, Furlongs at 9601 Shelbyville Road, Flabby’s Schnitzelburg at 1101 Lydia Street, Tony Roma’s at 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., and Carolina Shrimp & Seafood at 3922 Westport Road.

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Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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OPENINGS Perhaps the most notable newcomer is Hillbilly Tea, an audacious blend of tea house and bistro, with an ambitious and unusual dining menu and a strong selection of teas and pastries. As you turn south off Main Street onto First, you can’t miss the sign at the rooftop pointing down to the new restaurant at 120 S. First St. Also notable downtown is the end of Delta Restaurant’s long tenure at 434 W. Market St., and the opening of Dish on Market in its stead. After a much needed updating of the kitchen and other necessary renovations, lawyers, secretaries and government workers have a spiffier but still familiar spot to gather for breakfast, lunch and happy hour to gossip and unwind.

Considerable anticipation awaited the opening of The Bard’s Town, at the corner of Bardstown Road and Speed Avenue with its downstairs bar and restaurant and upstairs theater. Across the river, Horseshoe Casino has finally revamped the Villa Buffet, left over from the old Caesar’s theme, replacing it with a Paula Deen Buffet (open Sept. 3). Instead of traipsing to Savannah, Georgia, bubbly Paula’s many local fans can just mosey over to Elizabeth, Indiana, for her hearty Southern comfort cooking, and some may feel so satisfied afterward that they will linger for a few hands of blackjack or a couple of pulls on the slots.

Also in Southern Indiana, Cuba Libre, staffed by alumni of Havana Rumba, has hit the ground running at 1725 E.Tenth St., with Hoosiers lining up out the door to sample the savory Cuban and Caribbean menu.

And Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q will be smoking brisket and ribs in Jeffersonville at 1703 Charlestown-New Albany Pike.

Zahn’s Pizza closed at 201 Spring St. in Jeffersonville, but its space was taken over

by ET’s Memphis Bar-B-Q. El Nopal’s mini-empire has grown by two new locations, one in the Mall St. Matthews and the other at the site of the now-closed Acapulco Mexican Restaurant, 1041 Zorn Ave. Lemongrass Café shut down in St. Matthews at 106 Fairfax Ave., but Hanoi Café opened soon afterward, continuing to serve Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese food.

The café scene is strong and varied.

Anchorage Café offers coffee, pastries, and lunch items in Anchorage at 11505 Park Rd. Big Ben Café is a new casual dining spot in Norton Commons. Café Envy offers lunches

and evening drinks and nter tainment downtown at 570 S. Fourth St., and Little India Café, at 3099 Breckinridge Lane, serves northern Indian cuisine, including a lunch buffet.

Two new national/regional chains have set up shop in the area. At 9816 Linn Station Rd., Pita Pit serves what you might expect in a pita pocket (hummus, falafel) and what you might not (egg and sausage scramble and BLT). The Tilted Kilt will bring its vaguely Scottish-themed chow and its busty mini-kilted and bare-midriff waitresses to 6201 Dutchmans Ln., in Dupont Square.

The vitality of the ethnic dining scene is always an encouraging sign in a city. Three new Chinese restaurants have opened — Taste of Asia at 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., and Yummy Wok, at 1801 Priority Way, join the long list of strip mall stir-fry joints, and Peking City Bistro, in Middletown at 12410 Shelbyville Rd., looks to be a bit more upscale. Istanbul Palace is offering Turkish cuisine out at 2840 Goose Creek Rd., and at 808 Lyndon Ln., La Colombiana brings a new style of Latino cooking to the area.

Two national chains have expanded in the South end; Cheddar’s, 3521 Outer Loop, and McAlister’s Deli, 4677 Outer Loop.

Chop Shop Salads is now serving at 126 Breckinridge Ln., in St. Matthews, and The Fishery, a St. Matthews stalwart, is now frying in Middletown at 11519 Shelbyville Rd., as well. Sapporo Japanese Grill & Sushi has taken over and expanded the old Kilimanjaro space downtown at 649 S. Fourth St., building an enticing covered patio on Theater Square. And Sam’s Food & Spirits across the river is opening a second location in Floyds Knobs at 702 Highlander Point Dr.

CLOSINGS In addition to the closings mentioned earlier, Boudreaux’s ended its short stay at 116 E. Main St., and La Catalana at 4123 Oechsli Ave., in St. Matthews has folded. In Southern Indiana, Connors Place/Market Street Fish House at 132 E. Market St., and Paul’s One World Café at 133 E. Market St., are now shuttered.

Son of a Sailor is looking for a new location elsewhere in Jefferson county after closing in La Grange, but Toronto Deli, 2900 Brownsboro Rd., and D&C Diamond Café, 2017 Brownsboro Rd., have both ceased operation. Steve-O’s Italian Grill shut the 6402 Wolf Wind Way location, but is still serving at the LaGrange location. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010

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starters side dishes

side

dishes

Fork, Cork & Style

Awards and Honors

What HullabaLOU was to music, Fork, Cork & Style will be to food and wine at Churchill Downs on Sunday, September 12. The event is planned as “celebration of signature foods from around the country, celebrity chef cooking demonstrations, a wine tasting featuring 150 elite brands and innovative ways to dress up your next tailgating party,” according to the website.

Those signature foods include the original Anchor Bar Buffalo chicken wings, in addition to pizza puffs from Albarino’s in Chicago — number 8 on the Travel Channel’s “101 Tastiest Places to Chow Down.” There will be cheese steak from Tony Luke’s in South Philadelphia and Chicago’s Billy Goat Tavern and Grill will bring its cheeseburger, made famous by the cast of Saturday Night Live. Local restaurants who will bring specialties include the English Grill, Ice Cream and Pie Kitchen, Joe’s OK Bayou and many more.

Of course there will be multiple stages, but in addition to live music, there will be chef demonstrations.

Chef Emeril Lagasse will headline the main cooking stage and there will be additional appearances from Bravo TV’s Top Chef finalists Brian Malarkey (San Diego), Eli Kirshstein (New York), and Betty Fraser (Hollywood). Local chefs will also participate in cooking demonstrations throughout the day.

Purchase a ticket that includes the Grand Wine Tasting and you’ll have a chance to taste more than 100 wines from around the world, including Cloudy Bay, Caymus and Grgich Hills, which is bringing six bottles of its special selection Cabernet sauvignon.

Tickets to the basic festival start at $15; early bird tickets that include the wine tasting start at $50. A $200 VIP ticket gets you into a meetand-greet with the chefs, reserved seating at the cooking demonstrations, access to wine tasting and VIP parking in addition to festival admission.

The event is scheduled from 1 to 10 p.m. at Churchill Downs, 700 Central Ave. Visit www.forkcorkandstyle.com for additional information on the festival details and advance ticket sales.

Corbett’s ranks in national Diner’s Choice Awards In honor of the nation’s birthday (that would be July 4) OpenTable, Inc. asked its members to vote for their favorite “American” restaurant at its second annual Diner’s Choice awards contest. Making the top 50 (listed in alphabetical order) was Corbett’s Fine Dining, 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd. in Prospect.

Others in the 50 were Orchids at Palm Court in Cincinnati, Tilth in Seattle and Herons in Cary, N.C. OpenTable, Inc. (www.opentable.com) is a provider of free online reser vations for diners and guest management systems for restaurants. The winners in the contest were derived from more than five million reviews submitted by diners for more than 11,000 restaurants in the U.S.

10 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Matt Jamie’s Bluegrass soy sauce Meanwhile, Louisville chef Matt Jamie, creator of Bourbon Barrel foods and its superlative aged soy sauce, has garnered the attention of the Chicago Sun-Times and the Discover y Channel.

Jamie’s soy sauce, made from Kentucky-grown, non-GMO soybeans, was described in the SunTimes as “missing the usual overly salty, unnatural flavor found in most” soy sauces.

The Discovery Channel featured Jamie on a June 18 episode of “How It’s Made.”

The crew followed Jamie around his 3,000-square foot factory, located in Butchertown, to document how he makes his soy sauce. The program will be rerun throughout the year.

Red Hot Roasters Another Louisville star on the national stage: muffins from Red Hot Roasters. The local coffee company’s special Derby creations — including Bourbon ball, mint julep and the “Kentucky Pie” muffin with chocolate chips and walnuts — were noticed by the Food Network Magazine. Those flavors, available only in the spring, were created by Stellar Sweets’ Star Auerbach. But muffins of several flavors are always available at RHR, 1402 Payne St. and Spalding University Campus. At last check, there were strawberry, pineapple cream cheese and lemon poppyseed.

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Derek Spendlove Sullivan University’s baking and pastry chef instructor Derek Spendlove was one of 100 chefs who helped First Lady Michelle Obama launch Chefs Move to Schools in June at the White House. The new program aims to get chefs involved with school lunch programs to promote healthier meals and better nutrition education for students, and is part of the Let’s Move campaign to tackle the problem of childhood obesity. The First Lady asked the chefs to adopt a school and work with teachers, parents and school nutrition professionals and administrators to help educate kids about food and nutrition, helping them discover that healthy eating can be fun and taste good.

What’s the best hotel in America?

Louisville’s 21c Museum Hotel is in the running to be named one of the best hotels in the United States in the annual Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards again. Last year, the hotel, was deemed #1 hotel in America, and ranked sixth in the world.

Exposed brickwork and salvaged wood beams contrast with art created in the 21st century, from the collection of owners Steve Wilson and Laura Lee Brown, in this 19th century building. Even a trip to the restroom is an adventure. To place your vote, go to http:www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/502389.

Best Restrooms And speaking of restrooms, you can cast your vote for Rivue’s as the best place to, well, rest. Cincinnati-based Cintas created the Best Restroom award in 2002 to honor those businesses across America that place high value on hygiene and exceptional style in their public restrooms.

Rivue, atop the Galt House at 140 N. 4th St., is one of 10 American locations competing for the award, which in previous years has gone to such places as restrooms at the University of Notre Dame; The Grand Casino in Biloxi, Mississippi; and Jungle Jim’s International Market in Fairfield, Ohio. Rivue makes the top ten finalists with “custom light fixtures, translucent ruby washbasins, floor-to-ceiling stall doors and cloth towels.” You can cast your vote at http://www.bestrestroom.com/us/vote.asp.

Chef Changes Now we come to the portion of the party where everyone gets up, moves around and tries to find a new restaurant before the music stops.

Dallas McGarity, who many of us knew from the early days at Volare, cooled his heels for a while at the helm of Z’s Fusion, which he left to go to Avalon and, whoops, we find him most recently at his stomping grounds of yore, Equus/Jack’s Lounge. Z’s Fusion is relying on Kellye Hendrix, who has been sous chef there since it opened. And as of press time there was no chef replacement for Laurence Agnew, who was replaced momentarily by Dallas McGarity who (see above), is back at Equus, taking over from owner Dean Corbett who had been filling in since Josh Hillyard left more than a year ago.

In Butchertown at L & N Wine Bar and Bistro, Michael Holgrove replaced Rick Adams. And Mike Ems, a chef from Indianapolis who has trained in France, has arrived at the River City Winery to expand and revise the menu. Across the river in New Albany, Nick Davis has replaced Chuck Pierce at the Windsor.

12 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Anoosh Shariat, formerly of Park Place, has flown south to MEZ in the EpiCentre in Charlotte, NC, which boasts swanky bars, soaring ceilings, an upscale menu and a great reputation. He’s still a part-owner of Browning’s at Slugger Field, and will split his time between the two restaurants.

And have we mentioned that Dallas McGarity has moved?

Restaurant Changes Masterson’s Louisville’s restaurant world is seeing other changes.

Masterson’s has left its historic English tudor style bunker at Third and Cardinal streets, where the University of Louisville will build student housing. Patrons and staff from the old location can share memories at www.memoriesatmastersons.com.

Seviche Chef-owner Anthony Lamas will expand his restaurant Seviche into the contiguous digs left empty by the move of ear X-tacy further out Bardstown Road. The extra space will allow him to expand his kitchen, his bar and add about 40 seats to the restaurant.

Asiatique Peng Looi has, after months of trying, successfully opened a new Asiatique. North of Cincinnati in West Chester Township, the restaurant has a menu that’s a blend of Asiatique and Looi’s other Louisville venture, August Moon. Likewise, the menu prices meet in the middle.

Paula Deen Buffet But ya’ll, if good ol’ home-style Southern cookin’ with a celebrity twist is what y’all cravin’, ya’ll can run right over to Paula Deen’s in Indiana. Horseshoe Casino has undertaken a $3.4 million rehab that will open as the Paula Deen Buffet, a 525-seat restaurant serving the bubbly TV food celebrity’s take on Southern food. A gift shop featuring cookbooks, cookware and all things Paula will be adjacent to the buffet. Paula Deen herself is expected to arrive for the opening in September.

Meridian Café And finally, the ladies who lunch in St. Matthews might be glad to know that longtime chef Mike Ross, has purchased the Meridian Café from previous owner Heather Yaron and has applied for a beer and wine license. He also plans to restore breakfast on weekdays.

F&D News New Phone Number It’s not earth changing news, but we have changed our phone number. So, if you find the urge to give us a call, here you go — (502) 509-EATS (3287).

Free Subscriptions, sort of …

Back by popular demand — now when you subscribe to F&D for a year at $18, you get an $18 gift certificate to a popular local restaurant. An even better deal — subscribe for two years at $26 and receive $36 in restaurant gift certificates.You can subscribe online at foodanddine.com or call (502) 509-EATS (3287). F&D

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starters from the editor

BY SARAH FRITSCHNER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Why Bison?

From ancient forests and savannahs of Kentucky comes a native food that helps define our local cuisine as naturally delicious.

T

There was a blip on the culinary radar a decade or so ago, when chefs became enamored of exotic meats, particularly ostrich, which was purported to be lean and crammed with protein. It tasted OK, but it was somewhat removed from its terroir, as it were. Even if the birds were raised in Southern Indiana, it didn’t feel like they belonged on our menus.

Buffalo — bison — is different. Back in the day bison meat, too, seemed exotic, but only because the animals had hovered near extinction in the mid 1800s and were slow to come back, to be observed like zoo animals roaming in national parks. Centuries before, herds estimated at millions literally cleared the way for Daniel Boone to make his way through Kentucky and north to Ohio. Buffalo “traces” were wide, worn paths made by the animals as they moved through fields and woods toward the salt licks of Northern Kentucky, named Big Bone and Blue Licks today. Unlike ostrich, bison meat is downright indigenous.

Today, grazing on grass as they did for centuries (only now behind fences in places like Oldham County), bison produce a meat that is lean and high in Omega-3 fatty acids. High levels of Omega-3s are the reason health specialists suggest we eat lots of fatty fish (salmon and mackerel, for instance). Grass-fed animals of all kinds produce more Omega-3s (chickens on grass produce eggs with higher Omega-3 content). Eating bison (and grass-fed beef) is how we can stay healthy even if we can’t or don’t eat seafood.

14 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Nutrition has a little something to do with why Bea Chamberlain has eliminated beef from her menu at El Mundo and fills all her tacos with ground bison, to the tune of 50 pounds or so a week. She uses bison because, “it’s a leaner, more sustainable, local product,” she says, “and also because it’s delicious.”

Bison tastes great. As Dave Moeller says in the ar ticle featuring Sullivan University’s chefs and their bison recipes (page 48), bison meat “tastes the way beef wants to taste.” Older folks might say that bison tastes the way beef used to taste.

Genetics has something to do with the great taste. But the way the animals are raised also has something to do with it. A bison gains weight slowly on grass, and won’t reach processing weight until he’s two years old. It’s against American Bison Society protocol to feed the animals subtherapeutic antibiotics, steroids or hormones to make bison gain weight more quickly. In theory, if a bison became ill, you’d be allowed to shoot it with antibiotics, but according to Dave Carter with the ABS, you really don’t want to be doing that. Bison aren’t domesticated, and the vet’s not holding them down to give them a shot.

In contrast, supermarket beef comes from animals that are shipped to a feed lot at 650 pounds or so and force-fed a highcorn diet with plenty of growth stimulants that rush them to slaughter weight in 14 months or so. Harvesting young animals yields bigger profits, but less flavor.

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Chef Coby Ming of Wiltshire on Market’s spiced rubbed bison tenderloin with greens and a corn and tomato salsa.

The extra months of grazing and living mean extra flavor in bison meat, and an extra dollar or two on your bison burger.

At Wiltshire on Market, restaurant owner Susan Hershberg says bison is featured often: bison osso buco with ricotta dumplings and green garlic gremolata, bison Bolognese with tenderloin and mushroom confit and homemade pappardelle noodles, bison flank steak pho and bison meatballs. And lots of hangar steak. “When we serve hangar steak it sells two to one over everything else,” says Hershberg.

“It’s always tender,” she adds. “it’s like butter. Even the flank steak, which is a cut you always have to be careful with in beef, in bison we never have an issue with it.”

From ancient forests and savannahs of Kentucky comes a native food that helps define our local cuisine as naturally delicious. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 15

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people and places profiles

BY MARTY ROSEN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

The New Craft

“

Cocktail Era

What we’ve really seen in recent years is the rise of the scratch-made cocktail.

Sometimes it’s presented as a vintage cocktail, but just as often bartenders are creating brand new variations on classic ideas using very carefully selected ingredients.

— Tim Laird, Brown-Forman Corp.

I

”

In 1833, Sir James Edward Alexander, a British officer who spent the first half of the nineteenth century fighting in Persia, Russia, Portugal, and South Africa, wrote in Transatlantic Sketches about a trip he’d made to the United States. If the business of a man’s life is eating, he asserted, “there is no place in the universe where he can live to such exquisite purpose as in the renowned City of New York.”

Among the things he loved about New York, the drinks served at the City Hotel by a bartender named Willard were at the top of the list. As David Wondrich argues in Imbibe!, his impressive historical study of nineteenth century cocktails, Willard was the first celebrity bartender in history. And the drinks he crafted represented a brand new moment in beverage history.

Alexander agreed — to the point that included recipes for the benefit of his British readers. Thus we know that Willard’s “Cocktail” was made with two-thirds water and one-third spirits (rum, gin, or brandy), plus bitters, sugar, and nutmeg.

His “Sling” omitted the bitters. Willard’s “Mint Julep” called for four stalks of unbruised mint, a lump of ice, plus brandy, water, and sugar. And to make an “Apple Toddy,” Willard wrapped “the fairest apples” in brown paper, roasted them in live embers until they were soft.Then he mixed equal portions of apples, sugar, brandy and water, and added a lump of ice.

Nowhere else in the world had the fine art of mixing drinks reached this level of refinement. Long before it gave the world jazz, bluegrass, and drivethrough fast food, America had made its first major drinkable contribution to world culture: the cocktail.

That was nearly nine-score years ago, and throughout its history the cocktail has played an intricate role in shaping and being shaped by the culture of America. If at times it’s been associated with the unsavory denizens of the sporting life, it’s also been the lubricant that fueled the expansion of America’s business culture. After all, is it really unreasonable to ask what role the twomartini lunch played in America’s race to economic supremacy during the twentieth century?

During the 1960s, a countercultural backlash led to a change in drinking habits. College students, political radicals, and folk singers who thought they couldn’t trust anyone over 30 eagerly traded in their parents’ cocktail shakers for a bong and bottles of Mateus.

16 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

In recent years, though, there’s been a kind of cocktail renaissance, according to Tim Laird, dubbed

by Brown-Forman, “Chief Entertaining Officer.”

“Many factors have shaped the new interest in cocktails,” says Laird. “To some extent it’s been driven by a nostalgic interest in the past — TV programs like ‘Mad Men,’ a fascination with the culture, fashion, and style of the Prohibition and preProhibition eras. But it’s also driven by the same forces that have reshaped American cuisine in the last decade or so. Chefs are interested in using fresh, local, distinctive ingredients and artisanal techniques to create vivid flavors. Consumers have come to expect that. And bartenders are keeping pace. The first signs of this arose in the vintage cocktail movement because those bar tenders were returning not only to classic recipes, but to classic ways of doing things. They wanted to replace prepared, bottled mixes with fresh ingredients and artisanal ingredients like hand-crafted bitters. What we’ve really seen in recent years is the rise of the scratch-made cocktail. Sometimes it’s presented as a vintage cocktail, but just as often bartenders are

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Jen Pittman, head bar tender at Proof On Main, also considers it essential to ensure that her bar offerings are aligned with the cuisine that emanates from Chef Michael Paley’s kitchen.

“We’re fortunate that we have access to amazing ingredients from Woodland Farms,” says Pittman, referring to the Oldham County farm owned by Proof ’s owners, Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson. “We’re totally obsessed with fresh ingredients and fresh flavors.”

Obsessed to the point where they import quinine for their own housemade tonic. Quinine is the bitter bark that’s been used for 400 years as a cure for malaria, and that in its recreational form — the tonic in gin and tonic, introduced in the 1700s by members of the British East India Company — soon became perhaps the most widely drunk drink in the world, ubiquitous throughout the British Empire. And obsessed to the point where the garnishes she uses to make the Mind In The Gutter, a variation on the “Dirty Martini” are pickled in-house, and the pickling brine, infused with the flavor of onions, carrots, olives and herbs infuses the resulting drink with layers of flavor.

Larry Rice, co-owner of 732 Social, heads his restaurant’s At 732 Social, where Larry Rice bar program, which has garnered national attention. leads the bar program, the bartenders are immersed in the history and lore of cocktails — to the point where they creating brand new variations on classic ideas using very carefully obsess over whether a particular gin drink calls for the dry notes selected ingredients.” of a London gin, or the smoother feel of a Plymouth gin. And this That’s certainly true at Seviche–a Latin Restaurant, where is a bar where you’ll seldom see a drink mixed by eye or touch.

Chris DeRome is the bar manager. His take on the classic Pisco Rather, the bartenders leave nothing to chance — the shelves are Sour, a drink that traces its history to the 1870s in Peru, has all the stocked with vials and medicine droppers used to add rigorously hallmarks of a classic cocktail. It’s a crisp, perfectly balanced sour measured doses of house-made bitters, syrups, and flavors in that’s shaken until it forms an impeccable head of foam that kisses carefully calculated proportions. the lips with every sip. But one of the main ingredients is a version “All of us, including Chef (Jayson) Llewellyn, have ver y of the tropical drink called Mama-Juana that DeRome makes from demanding palates, and before we actually offer a new cocktail to scratch. Using 32 different herbs and spices — some imported, customers, we spend an enormous amount of time tweaking the others harvested locally — that he ages for weeks, DeRome crafts details, developing exactly the flavor profile we think is a perfect a lively digestif (think of it as a more accessible Fernet-Branca) that expression of the concept,” says Rice. “There are things you can do reflects not only his tastes, but his philosophy. in a kitchen or at a bar that are improvisational, but there are other “I’m really interested in the health effects of food,” says things where you can’t leave anything to chance, and our DeRome. “I think a lot of the health problems that affect the philosophy of cocktails requires that they be executed with modern world, especially the rise of allergies, arise from the fact precision and consistency. It takes us a little longer to mix a that our food processes have moved away from natural ways of cocktail, but we think that perfection is worth it.” doing things. If we can rediscover old approaches, I think we’ll go And speaking of taking time, 732 Social’s ice program is a long way toward becoming healthier, happier people. And that’s among the most labor-intensive and creative in the country. not just in our foods, but in our beverages as well. It’s a philosophy “Excellent ice is a key ingredient in great cocktails,” says Rice. that I share with Chef (Anthony) Lamas, and I love the fact that at “Throughout the history of cocktails, bar tenders have been Seviche the bar program and kitchen are really operating from the fascinated by ice and its impact on the quality of a drink. Ice that same basic principles, of creating great flavors using real ingredients.” comes from machines is subject to a lot of variations in terms of www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 17

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[ Bourbon Old-Fashioned ]

(above) “As with all our drinks that are served with ice, we use ice that we’ve carved from our housemade blocks of ice. I’ve obviously taken liberties with the Old-Fashioned recipe and often do. This is a drink I like to play with — experimenting with new batches of house-made bitters, or experimenting with new whiskeys or rums. It’s a good build to play with. I suppose I should probably give this build a different name in order to be fair to the original Old-Fashioned, but the Pendennis Club didn’t and it doesn’t seem to bother anybody.” — Larry Rice

[ Sazerac ]

hardness, clarity, and melting speed. That’s just not consistent with our vision of what an exceptional cocktail ought to be. So again, we leave nothing to chance. We freeze, thaw, and refreeze water in order to create blocks of ice that are crystal clear. Then we hand-carve them into specific 732 Social’s stock of medicine droppers filled with sizes and shapes suitable for house-made bitters, syrups, and flavors used to the drinks we’re making. Just as enhance cocktails in carefully calculated proportions. with our mixing techniques, it takes a long time — we’re often in here for hours in the afternoon doing ice preparations for the COCKTAIL RECIPES evening. But when your goal is to be known for making the best cocktails in Note on measurements: Top bartenders are precise America, that’s what you have to do.” people, and measure carefully. If you are going to try Is Louisville home to some of the best cocktails in America? According to mixology at home, invest in a good jigger assortment, and Laird, who is familiar with cocktail culture all over the country, if it’s not the learn the ounce capacities. For those of you who want to best, it’s certainly in the top tier. “At first blush, it seems to me that Louisville get by with kitchen utensils, here is a quick cheat sheet. is right in the forefront of what’s happening in the cocktail world,” he said. 1 ounce = 2 tablespoons “And that’s as it should be, given that Kentucky is one of the key centers in 3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon the world of spirits. The cocktail programs that have emerged in Louisville in 2 tablespoons = 1/8 cup the last few years are as good as any in the country. Chefs, restaurateurs, and 1 bar managers are really making their bars central to their businesses. They’re 4 tablespoons = /4 cup 1 not treating them as offshoots, but as co-equal with the kitchens, places where A “pull” equals about 10 dashes, or roughly /8 -ounce, or about a scant half-teaspoon. imagination, execution, and personality can help create a real sense of community in a restaurant, a sense of excitement and fun that keeps customers A “build” is the sequence in which a barkeep adds ingredients to make or “build” the drink. coming back. I can hardly wait to see what happens next.”

18 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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Chris DeRome, Seviche – a Latin Restaurant

The Bourbon Old-Fashioned (Larry Rice, 732 Social)

2 ounces Ancient Age Kentucky Straight Bourbon whiskey 1 /4 ounce Cardinal Mendoza Spanish brandy 1 Demerara sugar cube (or 1/8 -ounce of rich Demerara syrup) Splash water 11/2 pulls of house-made Sheldon bitters 1 pull of house-made sassafras bitters 1 pull of Fee Brothers chocolate bitters 1 pull of kümmel Orange Zest Muddle the sugar, bitters, kümmel, and water in a mixing glass to dissolve then add spirits. Cut a disc of peel and zest from the orange (no white flesh); holding it over the glass, flame it with a lighter, then as it chars, squeeze it to expel the flamed zest into the glass. Add ice, and stir. Add ice to a rocks glass, and strain the cocktail over the rocks.

Garnish with orange zest and serve.

Sazerac

Seviche’s house-made Mama-Juana

Empty the crushed ice from the first glass, and rinse the glass with absinthe.

Strain the rye mixture into the chilled glass; garnish the drink with lemon zest and serve.

Comments: Since the drink was created by Antoine Peychaud, a Haitian refuge in New Orleans, Peychaud’s bitters are crucial to the drink’s authenticity. The Sazerac is believed to be the first American cocktail — the first purposeful combination of spirits, water, sugar, citrus and bitters, so I feel reverence for the method as well as the ingredients.

It’s the American bartender’s building block; it’s our Genesis.The build we use is the Tomas Handy version of the recipe. Peychaud used a French cognac that hasn’t been available for some time. But even before it was out of circulation, Tomas Handy decided the American palate favored rye whiskey, and changed the spirit. — LR

[ Pisco Sour ]

Pisco Sour (Chris DeRome, Seviche) 2

(Larry Rice, 732 Social)

2 ounces Rittenhouse bottled in bond rye 1 sugar cube Splash of water (just enough to dissolve the sugar cube) 11/2 pulls of Peychaud bitters 1 lemon zest 1 /4 ounce of absinthe (about a scant teaspoon) Fill one bar glass with crushed ice. In another bar glass, muddle the sugar, water and bitters, until the sugar is dissolved, then add the rye and the ice, and stir to chill.

/3 of the juice from a summer lime (winter limes are dry, and you’ll need more) 1 tablespoon of sugar 2 ounces of Pisco (grape brandy) House-made Mama-Juana 1 egg white

Mix the sugar and lime juice, and let them rest as you separate the egg white. In a cocktail shaker, place 5 ounces of ice and all the ingredients. Shake until your elbow cries, or until the froth on top has the perfect consistency. Strain into a martini glass. Decorate the foamy top with drops of Mama-Juana.

[ Dizzy Sour ]

19

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Comments: The Pisco Sour is a Latin drink made with love; when properly prepared and served, it reminds me of a flower. — CD

Dizzy Sour

(Chris DeRome, Seviche)

(Also known as The Saugus Sour) 1 5 1 1.7 .3 1

Jen Pittman, Proof on Main

[ Gin & Tonic ]

lemon dashes of cucumber water teaspoon sugar or agave nectar ounces rye whiskey ounce house-made Mama-Juana egg white Ron Zacapa or your favorite dark rum

Slice the ends from a lemon. Using a wooden muddler, muddle the heart of the lemon in a rocks glass along with cucumber water and sugar.

Place 7 ounces of ice cubes in a cocktail shaker.

Add the lemon-cucumber-sugar mixture and all other ingredients (except the rum) to the shaker, and shake briskly for 90 seconds, or until ice crystals form on the base of the shaker. Pour into an 8 ounce rocks glass and top with rum and an orange twist.

Comments: A pretty drink that’s perfect for the Seviche Patio. — CD

Starboard (Jen Pittman, Proof on Main) 2 1 1 2

ounces Pusser’s Navy Rum ounce Carpano Antica Formula teaspoon Kirsch eau-de-vie drops orange bitters

Build in a cocktail shaker. Add ice. Stir until the shaker gets icy cold on the outside. Strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with orange peel.

Proof ’s house-made tonic

Comments: Stirring, as opposed silky mouth feel. — JP

to shaking, creates a

[ Starboard ]

[ Mind in the Gutter ]

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Mind in the Gutter (Jen Pittman, Proof on Main)

2 ounces Finlandia vodka /4 ounce dry vermouth 1 /2 ounce house brine 1

Build in rocks glass. Add ice; top with soda water; squeeze a lime into the drink.

Comments: Our variation of the Dirty Martini; the house brine is a simple pickling solution (vinegar, sugar, salt, and herbs) used for pickling the vegetables in the garnish. — JP

Gin and Tonic (Jen Pittman, Proof on Main) 11/2 ounces Plymouth gin 1 /2 ounce house-made tonic 1 lime wedge In a rocks glass filled with ice, add the gin. Top with tonic; squeeze a lime into the drink.

Comments: The tonic is made with natural quinine, limes, sugar, and citric acid. Quinine is what gives the tonic that sweet/bitter character and the light brick color associated with our house tonic. — JP

Moscow Mule (Tim Laird, F&D) 2 ounces Finlandia vodka Juice of 1/2 of a lime Ginger beer Lime wheel for garnish In a mixing glass with ice add the vodka, lime juice and ginger beer and stir.

Strain into Moscow Mule mug or rocks glass with ice. Garnish with lime.

Comments: The Moscow Mule was the drink that made vodka popular. Prior to this drink, gin and Canadian whiskeys were the spirits of choice. The drink hit its prime in the 1940s and then quickly died. However, vodka went on and was used in numerous other ways. The Moscow Mule was served in a copper mug that helped set it apart from other drinks. — TL

Classic Old-Fashioned (Tim Laird, F&D)

In an old-fashioned glass (bucket or tumbler) add: 1 /2 ounce simple syrup 2 dashes of bitters Take a half-dollar size peel of orange and gently muddle to release the oils. Fill glass with large ice cubes. Add 2 ounces

Tim Laird, Brown-Forman Corp. and F&D’s Entertainment Editor-at-Large.

[ Moscow Mule ]

Bourbon. Squeeze orange peel over drink and use as a garnish.

Comments: The original Old-Fashioned followed the 1806 definition of the cocktail. The cocktail was described as a stimulating beverage that consisted of a spirit of any kind, water, sugar and bitters.

The Pendennis Club takes credit for inventing the drink. However, some people say that the name came from customers ordering a whiskey cocktail but make it, “The old-fashioned way.” Since then, the Old-Fashioned has changed to a drink with soda or sparkling lemon lime with muddled fruit. — TL

Original Whiskey Sour (Tim Laird, F&D)

2 1 1 1 1

[ Old-Fashioned ]

In a shaker with ice add: ounces Old Forester Bourbon ounce fresh lemon juice ounce simple syrup teaspoon pasteurized egg white dash bitters

Shake vigorously and strain into rocks glass with ice. Garnish with an orange wedge and cherry.

Comments: The Whiskey Sour is a great cocktail when made correctly. However, sour mixes and other non-fresh ingredients have invaded this cocktail, making them not as good as the original. The original recipe used freshly squeezed lemon juice, simple syrup and egg whites. Yes, egg whites. Egg whites were used in many preProhibition cocktails. They gave drinks body, depth and fizz. — TL

[ Whiskey Sour ]

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liquids cork 101

BY SCOTT HARPER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

5

T

op

ines W

C

Carignan Domaine Du Gravillas “Lo Vièlh” 2005 (Vin de Pays des Côtes de Brian, France)

The grape Carignan is starting to get more widespread respect. Once thought of as a grape that can produce quantity not quality, it has proven that old vines and low yields can make a special wine indeed.

Nicole and John Bojanowski are the people behind this wine. Nicole is from Languedoc, France and John is from Louisville. Nicole started making wine in 1999 and John joined her full time in 2001.

They are a small domaine producing wine organically and pretty much by hand. The quality shows the individual care of the owners producing wines of elegance as opposed to power. The wine possesses black fruits, baking spices, a medium body with the flavors of black licorice and violets. Also try their white Menervois “L’In attendu.” Around $35.00

22 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

▲

▲

Choosing top five wines from the past year is tougher than you might imagine. I have the good fortune to try many wines that are not readily available, like the 1908 Australian Seppeltsfield Port. I only had an ounce of this majestic, concentrated, full of life, fortified wine, but it was an ethereal experience. Then there was 2003 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc from the Bordeaux region of Pessac-Leognan. It was crisp with wet stone, citrus and unusual depth for a white wine. I finally narrowed it down to the following wines that have their own special qualities. Some may be difficult to find and their price may relegate them to special occasions, but top wines should be drunk on special occasions whenever possible.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Clos du Mont-Olivet 2007 (Rhone, France) If I had to list one wine region for my top wine for the last year it would be the Southern Rhone region of Châteauneufdu-Pape. With a great string of vintages from 2003 to 2007, it is hard to pick a poor wine. With exceptional producers like Domaine Giraud, Domaine Des Senechaux, Domaine Le Vieux Donjon, Domaine Chapoutier and Chateau Fortia to mention only a few, it seems that the region is going from strength to strength.

The name Châteauneuf-du-Pape means “new castle of the Pope” and refers to the time when there were two Popes, one in the Vatican and one near Avignon, where this wine comes from. The wine is mostly Grenache with small parts of Syrah and Mourvedre and has the delicious flavors of kirschwasser, red licorice, herbs de Provence and red cherries all in a silky full body. Under $40.00

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▲

Tignanello Antinori 2006 (Tuscany, Italy)

▲

The Antinori family has made wine for over 600 years in Italy; they are true Tuscan royalty and now make wine in several regions of Italy and in other parts of the world. Made since 1971, Tignanello was a forerunner in the renaissance of Italian wine, removing the white grapes from the typical blend and making Tignanello from a single vineyard that started out as Chianti and then evolved into the first wine to age the Sangiovese grape in small oak barrels. The Antinori’s continually increased quality and now Tignanello is considered one of the finest Italian wines made. Tignanello is made from a blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine is full-bodied but surprisingly approachable with the flavors of blackberry, black cherry, coffee, spice and red flowers. The wine is concentrated and age worthy.

Around $110.00

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Gérard Raphet 2002 (Burgundy, France) The greatest Pinot Noir on earth comes from Burgundy. The hierarchy of quality follows a geographic region resembling a bull’s-eye target, going from a larger area to the smallest area. So, the hierarchy of Burgundy is Regional, Village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru (the last two designate vineyards. This Chambertin Clos de Bèze is one of only 39 Grand Crus of Burgundy.

Gérard Raphet is a small domaine making extremely high quality wines. The wine comes from a half-acre of 75-year-old vines, a minute production that is wor th seeking out. It is medium-bodied, aged in 100 percent new oak but you can’t tell as the crisp bright raspberry and cherry fruit is not overwhelmed by heavy oak flavor.

Though a medium-bodied wine, it has all the aromatic complexity and layered flavors of a much beefier wine. Expect elegance with flavors of baking spices, minerals, light smoke and earth all in an absolutely beguiling silky texture. Around $400.00

▲

Shiraz Penfolds Grange 2004 (South Australia)

Penfolds has produced Grange since 1951 and it is generally considered the most legendary wine of Australia. Grange is a blend of multiple vineyards and multiple districts all in South Australia, proving that the sum of the parts may be better than the individual parts. Penfolds adds a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon to Grange and ages the wine in 100% new American oak barrels. Penfolds makes a huge quantity and variety of wine and is owned by the gigantic company Foster’s, but still manages to keep the quality of Grange very high. This is a mouthful of opaque purple wine with the flavors of vanilla, oak, baking spice, currant, plum and cherry. It is forward and powerful, smooth in texture but with a couple more years of aging will be a supple, full-bodied, rich wine. Around $350.00

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 23

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liquids coffee

BY DAVID LANGE

Tracing the

Java Road

T

Today, the idea of a coffeehouse usually brings to mind a cozy place that serves gourmet coffee and espresso drinks, with couches to lounge on while you sip. So how did the coffeehouse get its start? Where did the java road begin? Let’s look back through time to see where the coffeehouse started, and how much it’s changed (or hasn’t changed?).

The first record of a public place serving coffee dates back to 1475. Kiva Han was the name of the first coffee shop, located in the Turkish city of Constantinople (now Istanbul). Coffee was such an important item during that time period that it was legal in Turkey for a woman to divorce her husband if he could not supply her with enough coffee. Turkish coffee was served strong, black and unfiltered, usually brewed in an ibrik (a small, open-topped vessel with a long handle).

In Persia, since the 16th century, the coffeehouse (qahvehkhaneh) has served as a social gathering place where men assemble to drink coffee or tea, listen to music, play chess and backgammon, perhaps hear a recitation of epic poetry. In modern Iran, the coffeehouses may attract a male crowd to watch the public television.

The idea of doctoring up one’s coffee with cream and sweeteners came into fashion in Europe around 1529, when the first coffeehouse in Europe was established. Vienna was invaded by the Turkish army, who left many bags of coffee behind when they fled the city. Franz Georg Kolschitzky claimed the coffee as the spoils of war, and opened a coffeehouse. Apparently, he had lived in Turkey and was the only person who recognized the value in the beans. He introduced the idea of filtering coffee, as well as softening the brew with milk and sugar. The beverage was quite a hit, and when coffeehouses also started serving sweet pastries and other confectionary treats, their popularity exploded.

Coffee establishments continued to spread, with the first one opening up in Britain in 1652. Though its popularity was growing in Europe, the idea arrived in England again from Turkey. An English merchant who dealt in Turkish goods (such as coffee) had two of his servants leave him, to go into business for themselves. “The Turk’s Head” coffeehouse was born. Though Charles II later tried to suppress them as “places where the disaffected met, and spread scandalous reports concerning the conduct of His Majesty and his Ministers,” (a criticism that is still valid), the public flocked to them.

They quickly became meeting places where business could be conducted, news exchanged and the gazettes read. By 1739 there were 551 coffeehouses in London, including meeting places for Tories and Whigs, people of fashion or the “cits” of the old city center.

Coffeehouses were also known as gathering-places for the wits or for stockjobbers, merchants and lawyers, booksellers and authors.

According to one French visitor, the Abbé Prévost, coffeehouses, “where you have the right to read all the papers for and against the government,” were the “seats of English liberty.”

24 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

It was in an English coffeehouse that the word “tips” was first used for gratuities. A jar with a sign reading, “To Insure Prompt Service” sat on the counter. You put a coin in the jar to be served quickly. The British called their coffeehouses, “penny universities” because that was the price for the coffee and the social upperclass of business-men were found there. In fact, a small coffee shop run by Edward Lloyd in 1668 was such a business hub, it eventually became the still-operating Lloyd’s of London insurance company.

In London, coffeehouses preceded the clubs of the mid-18th century, which skimmed away some of the more aristocratic clientele. Auctions in salesrooms attached to coffeehouses provided the start for the great auction houses of Sotheby’s and Christie’s.

From England, the idea spread further through Europe — Italy in 1654 and then Paris in 1672. Germany embraced the coffeehouse for the first time in 1673. Ladies were not permitted in coffeehouses. In a well-known engraving of a Parisian coffeehouse of ca. 1700, the gentlemen hang their hats on pegs and sit at long communal tables strewn with papers and writing implements. Coffeepots are ranged at an open fire, with a hanging cauldron of boiling water. The only woman present presides, decently separated in a canopied booth, where she doles out coffee in tall cups.

When America was colonized, the coffeehouse was quick to follow. The role of the American coffeehouse was the same as those in England: the hotspots for the business community. The Tontine Coffee House (1792) in New York was the original location for the New York Stock Exchange, because so much business was conducted there.

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Until then, coffeehouses were serving regular coffee. Then came espresso. In 1946, Gaggia invented the commercial piston espresso machine, which was far easier to use and safer than earlier models.

The Gaggia coffee bar, in Italy, was the first location to use these machines and to offer espresso along with the regular coffee. The modern age of coffeehouses was born.

Starbucks opened its first store in 1971, in Seattle, and has taken the world by storm with more than 8,000 locations.

These and other modern coffeehouses have a clear lineal descent from the espresso and pastry-centered Italian coffeehouses of the Italian-American immigrant communities in the major US cities, notably New York City’s Little Italy and Greenwich Village, Boston’s North End, and San Francisco’s North Beach. Both Greenwich Village and North Beach were major haunts of the Beats, who became highly identified with these coffeehouses. As the youth culture of the 1960s evolved, nonItalians consciously copied these coffeehouses. Before the rise of the Seattlebased Starbucks chain, Seattle had a thriving largely countercultural coffeehouse scene; Starbucks cleaned up, standardized, generalized, and “mainstreamed” this model.

Since approximately the Beat era, the term coffeehouse has come to imply the availability of espresso drinks, and while “coffee shop” still could suggest an establishment where one would buy coffee, there has been an evolution so that it now suggests diner more than coffee-drinking hang-out per se.

Starting in the 1980s, a counter clerk in a coffeehouse has come to be known in English as a barista, from the Italian word for bartender. The contemporary coffeehouse is just the latest example of a drinking establishment — bars, public houses, taverns and soda shops have also served this purpose — as the center for cultural exchange in a particular community, often fomenting social and political change.

Beginning in 1991, when I first was introduced to the coffee craze, Louisville has seen various national chains and many local coffee meccas become established.

Each one has its own aura that comforts and beckons visitors to return for a latte and a step into history. F&D

The

Perfect Location for Every Occasion

Anniversary or Birthday Dinners Sunday Brunch Wine Tastings Business Dinners

For reservations, call (502) 807-DINE (3463) 500 Fourth Street, Louisville, KY 40202

.TOL. 40153 Food Dining Ad.indd 1

4/16/10 3:06:21 www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010PM 25

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

A Gentleman Farmer’s Impact Steve Wilson wears a number of different hats: philanthropist, entrepreneur, preservationist, arts patron and gentleman farmer. He has already brought acclaim to Louisville with his 21c Museum Hotel (selected as the #1 hotel in the United States in Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Awards for 2009). He and his wife, Laura Lee Brown, display part of their extensive contemporary art collection in the hotel and in the hotel’s restaurant, Proof on Main, which was named one of the best new restaurants by Esquire magazine shortly after it opened in 2006.

Harking back to his farm-boy roots in Western Kentucky, Wilson oversees the raising and breeding of several hundred head of American bison on the 1,000-acre Woodland Farm in Oldham County, marketing the meat via the Kentucky Bison Company.

Although he has these accomplishments behind him, lofty and ambitious visions still fill Steve Wilson’s head. He imagines a 62-story Museum Plaza between Main Street and the riverfront, a mixed-use skyscraper that will soar 20 stories higher than any building in the city. He has bought Hermitage Farm, a premier thoroughbred farm in Goshen, to insure its preservation as farmland, with hopes that it might be developed for use as a training area for a variety of equine sports. Wilson also intends to expand on the success of 21c Museum Hotel with a chain of up to 16 other art-themed hotels, with the first three targeted in Bentonville, Arkansas, Austin and Cincinnati.

F

From a culinary perspective, the buzz about bison could well be signaling the birth of a new American classic.

Hunted to near extinction 150 years ago, the American buffalo (more accurately, bison) was long little more than a compelling but dim icon of the Old West.

Today, thanks to public and private efforts, North American herds are rebounding and the heart-healthy and flavorful quality of the meat is garnering enthusiastic attention.

Louisville is an epicenter of bison’s renaissance, thanks in great part to one man — Steve Wilson, who raises and processes the animal through the Kentucky Bison Company and showcases its myriad possibilities at Proof on Main, the restaurant in his downtown 21c Museum Hotel (7th and W. Main Streets).

Wilson and his wife, Laura Lee Brown (of the family that controls the Brown-Forman spirits conglomerate), are well-known 26 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

patrons and collectors of contemporary art, committed preservationists, and entrepreneurs with visions that range from adaptive reuse of 19th century properties to changing the city’s skyline with their proposed $450 million riverfront Museum Plaza development.

Tall and athletic-looking (an accomplished horseman who competes in combined driving), Wilson projects an intellectual yet playful spirit. He displays a sense of humor and candor about the trajectory stretching from his youth on a 700-acre farm hewn out of the woods in Western Kentucky to his contemporary ventures.

“As a farm boy I was often bored to death, because I was creative and thinking about other things,” Wilson said. “I also grew up thinking you had to come to the big city to become successful.

But as the years passed there came a longing for green spaces again and wanting that which I once took for granted.”

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His career included serving as a communications specialist for three governors. He spearheaded Gov. John Y. and Phyllis Brown’s “Save the Mansion” project to preserve and restore the governor’s residence, an experience that educated him in the details of historic preservation.

Some suggest he has an innate sense of showmanship and he exudes an intelligent joie de vivre. Used to handling multiple projects, his strength is to see the big picture and in seeking the talent that can help make it happen.

“I guess my best quality is being able to visualize something and then see it through to its realization,” Wilson said. It’s a quality that served him well when he and his wife wanted to get back to the land and found the 1,000-acre Woodland Farm in adjoining Oldham County.

“It was the combination of our interests. I had a farming background and she regretted her family selling its farm to developers,” Wilson said. “Woodland was on the verge of being turned into more subdivisions and we decided to take it on, both as a renovation project and a way to recreate what could be done with open land.”

They began restoring the 150-year-old farmhouse, put in their extensive art collection, started exploring alternative agricultural opportunities, and became the largest tract enrolled in the state’s nascent conservation easement program.

“By our example, we were trying to build acceptance of the idea that conservation easements don’t have to devalue the land,” Wilson said. “And we settled on bison. It was appealing to try to develop and improve a threatened species.”

Bison Wilson founded the Kentucky Bison Company in 1996 with 25 calves from South Dakota’s Custer State Park. He’s been learning about, and impressed by, them ever since.

“At first I wondered if it involved herding them with horses,” Wilson said laughing. “And we had to go to the legislature because of their ‘wild’ designation and make the case that we should not have to be treated as a zoo.”

With his grandson Avery looking on, Steve Wilson feeds newly born Jojo, the farm’s newest addition.

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From farm to table — garlic plucked fresh from the gardens at Woodland Farms and bound for diners at Proof on Main.

Wilson’s white-walled Louisville office, though peppered with contemporary art and one small list of federal rural development programs, is dominated by a huge eight- by six-foot Simen Johan photograph of a mature bison in repose.

They are massive beasts, the continent’s largest land animal.

“There was so much to admire about them — in comparison they have very healthy meat, they live longer and calve more easily than beef cattle. As we became more educated, they offered a lot of advantages to ostriches or raising thoroughbreds,” Wilson said.

His enthusiasm and hard work led in just a few years to his becoming chair of the National Bison Association. He also hired a special veterinary consultant, Saskatchewan’s Dr. Marshall Patterson.

While the low-fat, low-cholesterol qualities of bison meat appealed to Laura Lee, the historical and ecological features of the species appealed to Wilson.

“They’re migratory, like geese; they graze and roam and don’t eat the grass all the way down to the roots,” Wilson said.

“Dr. Patterson helped us check the mineral content of our grass, break them into groups to track the sires and develop handling techniques which were not intrusive or stress producing.”

Woodland Farm’s 260-head herd is comprised of both a woods type of bison, from Canada, a taller and more narrow animal, and the plains variety that has shorter legs, broader chests and bigger heads that can literally “snowplow” through a winter prairie.

“Surrounded by plenty of grass and water, they appear docile. But they can charge, and really fast. Their flight-fight mechanism is very strong, so we try to avoid stress at every turn — we don’t dehorn, we don’t castrate the bulls, we don’t shoot them up with antibiotics or steroids,” said Wilson.

Bison can reach six-feet tall and 2,000 pounds, so management depends on understanding their behavior and being smarter.

“Par t of management is literally learning how to trick them — like feeding them alfalfa cakes and corn in the corral to allay their natural apprehension of fences and gates before the once-a-year handling that leads them to market,” Wilson said.

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Wilson’s passion for art extends to his farm. An art instillation, appropriately named Green Rabbits (by the Cracking Art Group — the same folks that are behind the now famous red penguins at 21c Museum Hotel), dot the fields.

The yearlings are moved less than 50 miles to the company’s USDA-certified processing facility in Memphis, Indiana, where they are processed before distribution.

Proof on Main While managing a 1,000 acre farm would be enough for most mortals, Wilson and his wife also invested in Louisville’s historic downtown and opened the 21c Museum Hotel in 2006.

It garnered immediate national acclaim for its adaptive reuse of 19th century commercial buildings, 9,000 square feet of gallery space, the couple’s $10 million art collection ensconced within, and its restaurant Proof on Main.

Michael Paley, who cooked for Daniel Boulud and Drew Nierporent on Florida’s Palm Coast, was brought in as executive chef with his focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients and artisanal products blended into elegant cuisine.

“Steve’s an exciting guy to work for. From day one he said ‘I own a bison farm but that doesn’t mean I want this to be a bison restaurant,’ ” Paley said. “But I’ve been pleasantly surprised at its (bison’s) versatility. The size of the animal lends itself to large cuts but we’ve tried to focus on the right cuts for large flavor.”

Paley researched old steak house menus to explore what could be done with different cuts, but that was only a beginning.

Presentations of bison explored at Proof include carpaccio, tartare, oxtails, hamburgers, pastrami and tongue.

“In keeping with the idea of sustainability, we’re exploring using the entire animal, literally from tongue to tail,” Paley said. “I’m lucky, I have unlimited access to experiment and play around.”

It is also lucky for those wishing to have an exceptional dining experience, whether of the familiar or completely new.

“Sometimes restaurants intimidate people, so we wanted to offer something like a burger that would be familiar yet exceptional,” Paley said. “There’s no reason not to treat a burger like a steak. Cook it slow; don’t press it out. We add some apple woodsmoked bacon, local, aged, sharp cheddar and Jezebel sauce, an apricot-apple jelly with horseradish and spices.”

The result is a generous portion of lean yet moist and flavorful meat that more than satisfies an appetite for the American classic.

“We also do a bone-in bison filet that is one of the most flavorful and tender cuts; and it has become our signature dish,” Paley said. “You get only 10 per animal and we serve it on Saturdays, and maybe Sunday if any portions are left.”

Approximately 40 portions are available weekly and some opine it is the best way to experience a meat that is rich in protein and high in iron yet lower in fat, calories and cholesterol than skinless chicken or turkey.

The creative approach to bison reflects the restaurant’s spirit in other matters, from the surprising and sometimes provocative artwork to the nearly three-foot-tall rosemary plants and other herbs that ensconce the cozy, shaded, street-side patio area.

Paley also searches out and makes extensive use of specialty produce and local artisanal products like cheeses, hams and spirits, to present a thorough experience of Kentucky foods.

While the restaurant initially had kitchen garden beds on the hotel’s roof, they outgrew the space and were moved to Woodland Farms. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 29

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(502) 217-6360 702 W. Main St.

(pictured) Proof ’s bison carpaccio — shaved radish, parmesan, asparagus and extra virgin olive oil. (right) Grilled bison tenderloin with simmered leeks, fingerling potato, rosemary oil and smoked salt.

PROOF

At Proof on Main a fresh bison burger with smoked bacon, aged cheddar and Jezebel sauce finds it way to a table along with a smoked chicken tartine with radishes, egg and chicory.

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“Stephanie Tittle is a genius garden plot manager. Those rosemary plants are her work.” Paley said. “We get deliveries from the farm twice a week and can’t wait to see what is coming in.”

The matrix of Paley’s creative approach is a large blackboard that can be seen hanging on the kitchen wall. A column on the left lists fresh produce coming in and a column down the right lists available fresh herbs. In the middle is a large creative commons where the staff is encouraged to jot down suggestions for creative combinations. The suggestions are discussed at daily afternoon kitchen meetings.

“It builds true camaraderie in the kitchen. We have multiple chances every night to improve on what we’re doing and to please people.” F&D

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easy entertaining game night

32 Fall 2010Â www.foodanddine.com

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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Sometimes entertaining isn’t about the most complicated recipes and chic tableware. It’s about getting together with people you like without having to spend hours of preparation.

Keeping it easy and fun is as simple as hot dogs and old-fashioned board games, where young and old can eat together and play together. For one night, we turn off the electronics and bring all generations together for dinner that pleases all the people all the time.

For the kids, you’ll provide mustard and ketchup, of course. For the adults, we like the idea of personalizing the dogs, adding a Louisville flavor with a “hot brown” topping combination of Mornay sauce (and ours is super-easy) or a German twist with a sweet and hot mustard.

But the number of topping possibilities only stops when your imagination does — check our list of ideas, and add some of your own.

Marinated cucumbers provide a pickle-y (and simple) side dish and the potatoes provide a kid-friendly side dish with adultfriendly reduced fat (and mess).

For the sundae bar, scooping the ice cream ahead gives easy access to all the party-goers, and means you’re not stuck in the kitchen. www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 33

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easy entertaining game night

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Picking the Right Frank The debate over who makes the best frank is waged ad nauseam on hundreds of blogs and websites across the internet. We don’t propose to settle that debate today, but instead we can offer three brands that won’t leave you disappointed: Hebrew National Beef Franks, Nathan’s Famous Beef Franks and Vienna Beef Franks. Any of the three are fine choices.

Other Dog Options Kentucky bison frankfurters: Like an all-beef dog with a local twist. Kentucky bison is raised without hormones and antibiotics.

It’s easy to find bison burgers on the menu at lots of Louisville restaurants but bison frankfurters aren’t as common. You can find them at Mike Best’s Meats, Paul’s Fruit Market, and Rainbow Blossom Natural Food stores.

Stone Cross Farm bratwurst: A cookout’s not a cookout without bratwurst. We love pork, especially when it’s local, field-raised and antibiotic-free. Stone Cross Farm bratwurst can be found in the freezer section at Valu Markets, and at Companions Creek Farm’s booth at the Beargrass Christian Church farmers market and Whole Foods farmers market.

Vegetarian dogs: The best choices for the vegetarians is Tofurkey’s Italian sausage or Field Roast apple sage sausage. These are good grilled or sautéed, which tofu hot dogs often aren’t. If you opt for a tofu hot dog, don’t grill it — simmer it for 3 minutes. Available where natural foods are sold.

Cooking the Perfect Dog Although steam is the preferred method to cook hot dogs, cooking in water, grilling or using the microwave are also acceptable.

Since hot dogs are pre-cooked all you need to do is heat the dog until it reaches approximately 170 to 180 degrees.

Fluky’s (a Chicago institution since 1929 and widely acknowledged as the originator of the Chicago-style hot dog) provides these instructions for cooking your hot dogs in water: Bring the water to a boil, reduce heat and allow water to return to a slight simmer. (Do not cook hot dogs in boiling water.) Place desired number of hot dogs into water and cook uncovered for 20 minutes.

French

Hot Brown

German

Spring Roll

Beef hot dog with caramelized onions and Brie cheese

Turkey hot dog with bacon, sliced tomatoes and ‘Easy Mornay Sauce’

Bratwurst with ‘Spicy Horseradish Mustard’ and red cabbage

Pork hot dog with shredded carrots, cilantro, shrimp and Sriracha chili sauce

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Shopping List Your favorite brand and type of hot dogs Hot dog toppings Ice cream Sundae toppings Rice wine vinegar English cucumbers, 2 Fresh dill, 1 bunch Russet potatoes, 2 pounds Whole grain mustard Dijon mustard Prepared horseradish, 1 bottle Tabasco or hot pepper sauce Watercress, 1 bunch Heavy whipping cream, 1 pint

Timeline

Shredded Monterey Jack cheese, 1 bag White wine Beer, 24 ounces, light in style such as a pilsner Frozen limeade, 1 can 100% blue agave tequila such as El Jimador Blanco Lime, 1 Lemon, 1 Root Beer

Also pick up if not already in your pantry Sugar Kosher salt Black pepper Smoked paprika Garlic powder

White pepper Cornstarch Olive oil Honey

1 Day ahead

1 Week ahead Shop for non-perishable groceries Check your stock of games or buy new ones Make a list of the types of hot dogs you plan to serve and all of the toppings

2 Days ahead Prepare your table with games, platters and serving pieces Make the ‘Spicy Horseradish Mustard’

Shop for last minute groceries Chill mugs for the root beer

Morning of the party Scoop and freeze the ice cream and place the toppings into individual bowls for the ‘Sundae Bar’ Prepare the toppings for your ‘Hot Dogs’ Rim the glasses for the ‘Beer Margaritas’ Make the ‘Marinated Cucumbers’ (continued)

Greek

California

South of The Border

Reuben

Beef hot dog with spinach, red onion, black olives, Greek yogurt and feta cheese

Tofu hot dog with avocado, sprouts and diced yellow peppers

Beef hot dog with Monterey Jack cheese, pico de gallo and jalapeños

Beef hot dog with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Russian dressing www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 35

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(Timeline continued)

Just before the party Set up the games Set out the root beer Make the ‘Beer Margaritas’ Make the ‘Easy Mornay Sauce’ for the ‘Hot Brown Dog’

While guests are playing the first game Prepare and set out the ‘Hot Dogs’ Make and plate the ‘Oven Baked French Fries’ Plate the ‘Marinated Cucumbers’

Join your guests for the next set of games Afterward, set out the bowls and toppings for your ‘Sundae Bar’ and at the last minute the ice cream.

Easy Mornay Sauce (MAKES 2 CUPS)

2 2 2 11/2 1 /2 1 /2

teaspoons cornstarch teaspoons white wine cups heavy whipping cream cups Monterey Jack cheese, shredded cup white wine teaspoon smoked paprika Pinch of garlic powder Pinch of salt Pinch of white pepper

In a small bowl combine the cornstarch and 2 teaspoons of white wine, stirring until no lumps remain.

In a small sauce pan over medium heat bring the cream to a gentle simmer. Whisk in the cheese and once it is incorporated add the white wine, smoked paprika, garlic powder, salt and pepper while whisking. Let simmer for 5 minutes then add the cornstarch/white wine slurry while whisking well for 2 minutes.This will thicken the sauce. If you want to change the consistency add more wine to thin it out or more slurry to thicken it.

Serve this on your ‘Hot Brown Dog’ with bacon and sliced tomatoes.

Spicy Horseradish Mustard (MAKES 1 CUP)

In addition to hot dogs, this mustard is great on hamburgers, sandwiches and as a dip for pretzels.

1

/2 /4 1 /8 1 1

cup whole grain mustard cup Dijon mustard cup prepared horseradish tablespoon honey

In a small bowl combine the whole grain mustard, Dijon mustard, horseradish and honey. Scrape into a jar with a tight fitting lid and store in the refrigerator. Can be made 1 week ahead.

36 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Oven Baked French Fries (SERVES 4 - 6)

Individual servings can be made by putting parchment paper or a cocktail napkin in small cups and filling with the fries.

2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1 /2 -inch-thick sticks 2 tablespoons olive oil Kosher salt Fresh ground black pepper Put a rimmed baking sheet on the middle rack of your oven and preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Rinse the potatoes in a large pot of cold water being careful not to break the sticks. Dry in a kitchen towel then carefully toss in a large bowl with the olive oil. Remove the hot baking sheet from the oven and arrange the potatoes in a single layer. Roast the potatoes for 45 minutes turning every 10 minutes until evenly browned. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

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Marinated Cucumbers (SERVES 4 - 6) 1

/3 /3 1 1 2 1

1

cup sugar cup rice wine vinegar teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper English cucumbers, thinly sliced tablespoon fresh snipped dill

In a large bowl combine sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper. Add the cucumbers and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. Just before serving toss with the dill. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Beer Margaritas (SERVES 4)

For Game Night, try a new twist on an old favorite.You might be skeptical about mixing beer with the traditional margarita mix, until you taste it. One sip and you’ll understand how that fizzy carbonation of a light pilsner or lager can brighten a drink that sometimes comes off too syrupy. Once you’ve tasted it, you may never go back! NOTE: Since not everyone likes salt on their glass, rim only 1/3 of the glasses with salt to please all of your guests. Make a signature salt by combining kosher salt with lemon and lime zest. Use a lime wedge to wet the edge of the glass then dip into a plate of your salt mixture.

24 ounces cold beer, light in style such as a pilsner 1 /2 cup frozen limeade, thawed 1 /2 cup 100% blue agave tequila such as El Jimador Blanco 1 lime, sliced (reserve a few slices to rim the glasses) Combine all ingredients in a pitcher.

Pour into prepared rocks glass with ice.

Sundae Bar This is a fun treat! Buy a gallon of your favorite ice cream and scoop out individual scoops, place in a large footed bowl. After all the ice cream is scooped into the footed bowl put it in the freezer so when it’s time to serve, your guests can easily put a scoop of ice cream in their dish and begin building their own personalized sundaes.

The sky’s the limit in terms of toppings but here are a few of our favorites:

- Fudge sauce - Caramel sauce - Toasted pecans - Fresh blueberries - Fresh sliced strawberries - Fresh raspberries - Cherries

-

Sprinkles M&M’s Crushed Butterfinger bars Crushed Heath bars Chocolate chips Crushed pretzels Whipped cream www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 37

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liquids hip hops

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

CANS vs BOTTLES

F

“You’ve likely never had great beer out of a can because so far, not much great beer has been put into a can. That’s changing, and fast.”

Fermentation is nature’s way, brewing is mankind’s art and science, and the ultimate success of these interrelated endeavors is determined by the individual consumer reaction to the beer resting in his or her hand.

In turn, the consumer’s approval depends in large measure on the sor t of container that has been designed to deliver the liquid to a set of waiting lips in a way that assures optimal freshness and quality.

My own interest in beer containers admittedly is offbeat and selective, based less on scientific principle and technology and more on the attitude of the individual beer drinker, a state that reflects subconscious preferences, community psychologies and personal superstitions, all these combined into as many different forms as there are human beings to contrive and perpetuate them.

Many drinkers prefer draft beer, as dispensed into a glass or a cup. Others refer to themselves as “bottle babies,” refusing glassware and consuming beer directly from the bottle. In like fashion, millions of people drink directly from aluminum cans, simply popping the top, drinking the contents, feeling refreshed, and never thinking too much about it.

Perhaps owing to the expedience and informality of mass market bottled and canned beer, they have earned reproach from generations of radicalized beer aficionados, who have declared it utterly misguided to drink straight from a bottle or a can because from either, the aroma so integral to taste is largely undetectable.

I know. I’m one of them.

But these same enthusiasts have deemed it entirely suitable to enjoy the contents of a bottle or can if properly decanted into an appropriate glass.

Moreover, sometimes the very fact of a beer being bottle conditioned, or naturally carbonated in the bottle, is exalted as ideal and preferred. Even so, apar t from those with a nitro widget (Guinness, Boddington’s), generally most cans have remained objects of suspicion.

Is there a coherent basis for this attitude, or is it merely totemic?

Clay Robinson surveys this scene, and knows exactly where he stands.

“I’ve had a love affair with cans since I was a young boy,” says Robinson, the founder of Sun King Brewing Company, a 2009 microbrewery start-up in Indianapolis.

“Dave Colt (Sun King’s brewer) and I both had beer can collections as kids.”

38 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

John Foyston, beer writer for The Oregonian

Canning has been part of Sun King’s business plan since its inception, and the brewery began releasing canned Sunlight Cream Ale and Osiris Pale Ale in the spring of 2010. Robinson’s favorable impression of cans goes beyond his boyhood collectibles, to reinforcement experienced during travels to the state where craft canning began.

“I first had craft beer in a can six or seven years ago while visiting my sister in Colorado,” he explains. “Not surprisingly, it was Oskar Blues Dale’s Pale Ale. I remember thinking, ‘Pale Ale in a can?’ Then I bought some just to see what it was all about. I was amazed at its freshness and depth of flavor, so from that point I was hooked.”

It’s a familiar story. In craft canning circles, the Oskar Blues brewery in Lyons, Colorado, functions nowadays as a combination of Fenway Park as Mecca for Red Sox fans, Robert Johnson’s recordings as templates for blues guitarists, and the Library of Congress to document enthusiasts. In 2002, Oskar Blues became the first American microbrewery to can its ale, two units at a time to begin, and entirely by hand. The reason: Canning lines intended for small scale craft usage had yet to be produced.

Sleek and efficient smaller canning lines soon followed, thanks not only to the pioneering, nichedefining entrepreneurial efforts of Oskar Blues, but as importantly, to the active intervention of the Ball Corporation and Cask Brewing Systems.

These two far larger companies began scaling the existing canning technology to microbrewery production capacities, making it possible, albeit more expensive than bottling, to meet the demand of a restive market just awakening to the potential of canned craft beer in recyclable aluminum, which can be taken places where glass is prohibited, like beaches, outdoor preserves and sports venues.

“Save your money because it’s not cheap to get into,” is Robinson’s advice to aspiring craft beer canners, but he adds in definitive tone: “We believe that cans are a superior vessel for the transportation of craft beer.”

Robinson has a strong argument.

Aluminum itself is odorless, flavorless, pliable, lightweight and impermeable to light. Higher levels of damaging oxygen can be displaced from a can during the canning process.

According to Robinson, “The seam is a perfect seal, and the canning process functions in a cap-on-foam

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manner that allows for the least amount of dissolved oxygen in the finished product, and of course, light can’t get through aluminum.”

Yet acceptability still rests with the drinker. I asked Robinson how the cans have been received by the public, and his answer is emphatic.

“The response to our cans has been tremendous! We announced that we would be (canning) about six months before it actually happened, and so we spent a lot of time engaged in conversations about the virtues of cans with the people who love our beer. That, coupled with a lot of positive press for cans nationwide, has really paved the way. Plus, cans are the first time Sun King has been available in a small package.”

There is a dynamic not unlike a pendulum that keeps time during these considerations of beer packaging and containers, swinging back and forth through history as advancements are made and human cultural standards evolve. Beer has been stored inside, or been poured into, a dizzying array of manmade objects chosen from an equally wide range of materials.

Wood, stoneware, ceramic, glass, metal, and plastic; barrels, urns, vases, bottles, hogsheads, jugs and cans; and at each juncture, the objective has been the same: To maintain beer’s freshness during transport, and to see that it is consumed when freshest and best.

Better ways come and go. At times, they return.

As Robinson implies, as the chosen container has become smaller, more easily reproduced and efficient, beer’s transportability has steadily been enhanced, and the experience of drinking beer inexorably removed from its point of origin in the brewery, far past a place where the brewer has control of his creation. For a brewpub, where most house beer is enjoyed on the premises, this means less. For a brewery dependent on distribution, packaging decisions are life and death.

Impressively, for Sun King and other small craft breweries to invest in the emerging technology of micro-canning, as expressed in the currency of an aluminum container that once symbolized lesser quality beer in the minds of an earlier, more militant generation of craft consumers, is to trust resoundingly in the ongoing youthful democratization of craft beer.

The can as a container serves to widen the range of craft’s market, by taking it where it could not previously go. Micro-canning changes the game, both in terms of distribution logistics and perceptions. Beer drinkers will decant their cans into glassware when they are able, and drink straight from the can when they are not. Either way, they’ll be enjoying greater access to better beer.

Let them decide.

As a romantic at heart, it is my preference to think of beer in terms both artistic and hedonistic, as liquid poetry and as metaphorical prose. Beer has been an integral part of human civilization from the very start, and its story fully justifies those flights of intoxicated fascination and smitten adoration that ensue when a few too many of the tale’s tasty chapters have been consumed in one sitting. The reality is that craft beer in cans alters none of this romance, and costs not a single intangible in return for an expansion of the perimeter.

Clay Robinson’s final thought is instructive, and brings us full circle, back to the beginning: “Regardless of the package, the beer that it carries has to be good.”

Indeed. Look for excellent canned craft beers brewed by Sun King and other trendsetters, already in stock or coming very soon, at a package store near you. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 39

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people and places profiles

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Gastro-pub Lands in Butchertown

I

“

A “blind pig” or “speakeasy” was an establishment that surreptitiously sold alcoholic beverages during the period of United States histor y known as Prohibition (1920-1933),

Swine & Dine

It’s hard to imagine there not being a decent place to eat in a neighborhood called Butchertown. No disrespect to Hall’s Cafeteria, the greasy spoon that serves workers from a nearby pork processing plant, but until the arrival of The Blind Pig this spring, the area was something of a culinary no-man’s-land. There is some irony to this, considering the chief export around here.

Butchertown might have been the sausage equivalent of the verse, “water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink.”

That has changed, thanks to chef Joe Frase and partner Mike Grider’s recent foray into the restaurant business. The Blind Pig offers Butcher town diners an array of house made sausages including: Toulouse, chorizo, and boudin blanc, with specials like merguez dropped in from time-to-time. In addition to its focus on the eponymous pig (pork rillettes and house cured bacon are also

The Blind Pig

Chef Joe Frase (left) and Mike Grider, co-owners of The Blind Pig. 40 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

”

featured,) there’s plenty of fish, chicken and bison to be had at The Blind Pig. The chef certainly had some naysayers when he first hatched his restaurant concept, but an affection for the neighborhood and belief in his cuisine of choice soon turned that around. After more than a decade of slogging around the kitchen of a Mexican restaurant, Frase made sure to do things his way when creating his own place — and that’s paid off. Since a soft opening in late March, business has been brisk. One reason for this is a dedication to craft that is clearly on display for customers here.

“As much as I can do in house, I do,” Frase says, referring to all the curing, smoking and dry-aging going on at The Blind Pig. He believes this puts special focus on what comes out of the kitchen and, “shows the level of care that I have for the food.”

(502) 618-0600 1076 E. Washington St.

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Pan roasted cod with fresh chorizo over a rice pilaf.

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As Frase explains his food philosophy, two nearby bartenders strain several jars of house-made bitters, an experiment that has been under way for weeks. Their task exemplifies one of the principles here: taking the process of food and drink as far back as they can take it. The goal is a fresher, from-scratch product that is distinct to its origin and free of the sameness of mass production.

To that end, plans for a curing house are already in place. Frase intends to give some past specials, like dry-aged bison rib eye and charcuterie, a permanent place on his menu. Once completed, The Blind Pig will be one of only a handful of establishments in the state to do in-house dry-aging.

Asked to distinguish what makes The Blind Pig a gastro-pub and not your run-of-the-mill bar and grill, Frase emphasizes his use of French country cuisine and other European influences. He aims for a product that is of a fine dining quality, but served in an atmosphere that isn’t stuffy. He points to the open, common space with the bar as centerpiece, a gastro-pub prerequisite. The long, communal benches and almost family-style layout is meant to evoke the come-as-you-are ease of a British public house.

“Originally, what I wanted was for people to walk in and feel like they could sit down and relax, like they were at home. Just be comfortable about it.”

The unpretentious air of a pub, but with a menu that’s a notch or two above pub-grub, is a fitting description of what’s happening at The Blind Pig.

What to get As for the menu, visitors should consider the pan-roasted cod with fresh chorizo ($14). Frase took his inspiration from the Basque country on this dish and notes the complementary way the spice in the sausage promotes the cod flavor. Another fish selection is the slightly crispy, slightly moist salmon croquettes ($8.50), made from house-cured fish and served with a dill aioli.

The citrusy dressing offers an absorbent counter to the typically salty cured salmon.

The menu’s divergent flavors come together once again with “ivory” bacon ($9.50). The “ivory” refers to a house-made boudin blanc, which is a lighter, veal and chicken sausage. Smoky, housecured bacon, aioli and Muenster cheese create a pleasingly complex bite, but it is also nice to deconstruct this sandwich with a knife and fork to discover the individual components within it.

Like a number of local restaurateurs, Frase is making good use of the region’s locally-raised bison. After feeling weighed down by some of his favorite beef dishes, the chef swapped in this low-fat, high-protein meat. He mixes Kentucky bison with lamb in the shepherds’ pie ($15) and also features it in his bison patty melt ($10). Although leaner than the beef version, a bison patty melt will fill your belly with its grilled onions and Swiss cheese. An insistence to offer bread from the Blue Dog Bakery has forced Frase to use sourdough in place of the usual rye. To approximate Bison patty melt — locally raised bison, grilled onions and Swiss cheese on sourdough bread with caraway and garlic aioli.

Shepherds’ pie — fresh ground lamb and bison sauteed with onions, carrots, garlic and peas and topped with fresh mashed potatoes.

42 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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this missing ingredient, the chef created a caraway and garlic aioli, to provide the characteristic rye flavor.

All these meals are served in a renovated space declared by Preservation Louisville as one of the top ten success stories of 2010, which noted that the restaurant’s mix of old and new “blends well with the diverse architectural fabric of Butchertown.” Frase says that he was involved in the overhaul, but that the project was very much a group effort. He credits building owner Andy Blieden and architect Emily Fischer for their work and for being so open to ideas.

Members of the staff even played a hand in the design, as Frase pointed out when asked about an impromptu wine rack fashioned out of a studded wall. General manager and sommelier Jeremy Johnson first had the clever idea to punch holes in the studs in order to support bottlenecks.

Sous chef Christian Johnston, a part time carpenter, executed the idea and the result is an excellent storage solution that fits organically into the restaurant’s decor.

The design influences range from modern to distressed industrial. There’s Emily Fischer’s glass-and-steel storefront; movie-screen sized windows that lend a clean, minimalism to the room. Rustic, wooden joists and a partially dismantled brick wall offer something a little grittier.

Throughout the room, these styles meet, like the reclaimed, paned windows that quaintly hang above the open, stainless steel kitchen. Though these elements may seem at odds, they work effortlessly well together.

Becoming Better The Blind Pig represents the highpoint of a life in the kitchen. Though only 41, Frase started cooking with his grandmother at the age of ten and was working in restaurants by 15. He knew almost from the get-go that he would carve out a career in food and after being exposed to gastro-pubs in the 90s, looked forward to one day opening his own. Frase stresses the importance of his partnership in getting him to this point. Grider was there for the chef ’s 12 years of burrito building and provided the final push that Frase needed to take this professional leap of faith.

Of Grider and their 14 year relationship, Frase says, “He’s a big inspiration for me.

He’s just inspired me to be better.” F&D

Salmon croquettes served with a dill aioli.

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people and places profiles

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Hidden Gem is Worth the Journey

W Will Crawford tells would-be visitors not to bother with Mapquest. In fact, if you rely on any form of GPS to find his restaurant, the owner-operator of the Westport General Store says you’ll likely end up on a round-about tour of Madison, Indiana. Although his location is only 35 minutes and one left turn outside of Louisville, navigational satellites have a knack for directing Crawford’s new guests to a farmhouse several miles off course. You’ll just have to find the Westport General Store the old fashioned way, which is part of what makes the place seem further removed from city life than it actually is.

The short trek is best viewed as part of the Westport experience, and a selling point to those looking for a break from the usual fare on Louisville’s busier strips. As you leave the city on Brownsboro Road, the scenery changes for the better once you’ve conquered the snarls around I-265.

Passing through Prospect, traffic thins and the highway narrows to two lanes. Tree limbs overhead join to form a shady canopy and should inspire a looser grip on the steering wheel. When you reach the Goshen General Store, Highway 42 gains official, scenic-byway distinction, offering stretches of pastoral scenery framed by miles of horse fence. Continue on past the St. Francis School’s massive abacus sculpture and at about the 20-mile mark, take a left off of this country road for an even countrier country road — or KY 524. Look out for the Westport General Store on your right and if you find yourself staring at the Ohio River, you missed it by about 500 feet.

Although Crawford calls the location a blessing and a curse, one gets the impression that he likes the remoteness just fine. He returned home to Kentucky in 1996 after a stint driving movie trucks in New York City. In those days, he often found himself sitting in standstill, Lincoln Tunnel traffic four to six times a day. With his second child on the way and having been priced-out of his dream of opening his own place, the time had come for Crawford to explore a new way of life — or an old one, depending on how you look at it.

The future restaurateur kept his eye on the vacant Westport store for a number of years. When its price dropped in 2003, he told his then wife that they had to move on it. “You’re crazy, but OK,” she responded. The Crawfords were soon owners of a business with roots dating back to the 1780s. Oldham County was still dry when they made the purchase, so the enterprise would remain a general store in the traditional sense. That is until the county switched its status to “moist” a year later.

The moist distinction meant that an eatery with 100 year-round seats or more could sell spirits, provided that at least 70% of its revenue came from food. With an additional 5% tax collected on liquor, Crawford knew that he wasn’t going to get rich off of booze. But, he was also certain that 44 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

All in the Crawford family. The kids roll silverware, Ruth (left) runs the front of the house and makes the desserts while Will (right) mans the kitchen.

wine and beer would attract a large enough crowd to make dinner service worth his while.

He’d convert the store to a restaurant. To make room for the mandatory seating, displays that shelved slow-moving items like canned corn were eliminated. As floor space opened, a kitchen with woodburning stove was installed, a bar was constructed out of old cabin timbers and an area was designated for live music — now offered regularly on Saturday nights.

Seven years later, the restaurant is attracting a steady clientele, particularly on the weekends. There’s enough to do around here to keep the whole family busy, and Crawford says they are vital to the organization. The kids roll silverware and mind the salt and pepper shakers. Wife Ruth is on dessert duty and also runs the front of the house. When asked

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about the type of customer who makes the trip out to see him, Crawford mentions a recent evening when his parking lot featured a Rolls Royce, a tractor and a horse. (An old hitching post is one of Westport’s many rustic details.)

He went on to say that customers employ many modes of travel to get here. “We even have people who come by boat.

They’ll call me and I go down and pick ’em up. I got a 1970 Cadillac convertible, or a golf cart, or a pick-up truck depending on what we got to do. That’s part of our deal. That’s part of our charm.”

Upscale Southern Cuisine For all its quaintness, the food is what gets Crawford’s customers on their horses. Offered here is a version of classic Southern cooking with touches of new American cuisine. Past chefs like Dave Clancy and Brandy Allgeier have helped Crawford design a menu that is consistent with the general store’s bucolic setting and folksy décor — a dash of sophistication thrown in for good measure. Dishes like fried green tomatoes with chipotle corn salsa ($6) and curried wontons with mushroom, apples and white cheddar ($6) feel geographically correct, yet play with the

melting-pot approach of new American. Other appetizers stay rooted in the region, like the baby hot brown ($8) and fried bologna and cheddar ($5). The latter, while not much to look at, is listed on the menu as a “favorite guilty pleasure” and was utterly devoured by the crew on our recent photo shoot.

Standout entrées include the red-eye shrimp with grits and collard greens ($16). This plate features four shrimp wrapped in country ham, with a savory pepper sauce and coffee-based gravy.

Another signature is the chicken breast saltimbocca. Roughly translated from the Italian, saltimbocca means “jumps in the mouth,” the exact intent of the dish, with its fresh sage lemon butter, provolone and country ham ($16).

Then there’s the locally raised bison, which makes this brief respite from the city all the more worth it. The meat is lean without tasting that way and comes as a burger ($9) or rib eye steak topped with béarnaise and crispy tobacco onions ($25, with two sides). With the average meal in this country traveling 1,200 miles from farm-to-table, it’s of particular comfort to know that the bison used at Westport General Store is raised within walking distance.

Westport General Store (502) 222-4626

7008 Highway 524, Westport Kentucky

Chicken saltimbocca — chicken breasts topped with Finchville country ham and provolone cheese, served with rice and seasonal vegetables, finished with a lemon butter sauce.

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The other red meat When the restaurant was still in its infancy, a customer walked in with his son and demanded a couple of bison burgers. Crawford was unable to oblige and the man said they would need to work on changing that. That patron was Steve Wilson, Crawford’s neighbor and owner of the nearby Kentucky Bison Company. It’s Wilson’s herd that sometimes grazes along Highway 42. His 1,000 acre farm is in conservancy and represents the first of multiple farms in the area that are going natural. (Ashbourne Farms, which has another 1,000 acres in conservancy, is working on naturally-raised pork.)

Crawford was impressed with Wilson’s pitch. With an interest in a shorter food chain and serving healthier food (bison is lower in calories and fat than chicken), Crawford agreed to order samples.

He was surprised that the lean steaks packed so much flavor and was reminded of the beef he ate as a child. Westport General Store would become the third restaurant to offer meat from Kentucky Bison Company, itself a young company at the time, which now sells through more than 80 local restaurants and specialty markets.

Like the Westport General Store, Wilson’s farm follows a throwback, agrarian philosophy toward food that has steadily gained steam across the state and beyond. That meat flavor Crawford recalled from his childhood likely stemmed from a product whose growth wasn’t accelerated on a feedlot with steroids and all-corn

diet. The livestock next-door feed on native grasses and are not administered hormones or sub-therapeutic antibiotics.

Asked about his preference for the natural stuff, Crawford mentions his oldest son, Wyatt, the restaurant’s resident potato masher and a sufferer of autism.

“Who knows what causes that? I don’t really have time to figure that out. But the simple fact of the matter is that all the traits of autism look like mercury poisoning. Whether he got it through a vaccine, or the air, or the food, I don’t know,” Crawford says. “But, let’s face it; McDonald’s hamburger meat, I mean, they put ammonia in it. I don’t want to eat the stuff you clean your toilet with.”

As customers have grown more willing to pay a premium for food of known origin, Crawford’s penchant for the farm-to-table model has become a marketing tool. In addition to his relationship with the Kentucky Bison Company, Crawford proudly serves local ingredients whenever possible, like Weisenberger grits and Finchville Farms country ham. Closest of all is the vegetable garden out back, which provides much of the restaurant’s seasonal produce. While quickly exiting the dining room one evening, a regular asked Crawford where he was going.

“To the garden,” he told the man. “That’s where your salad comes from.” F&D

(above) An equine theme complements the rustic appeal of the restaurant’s interior. (below right) The fried bologna appetizer’s taste belies its simple ingredients. (below left) Westport’s signature red-eye shrimp: sautéed shrimp wrapped in Finchville country ham over Weisenberger stone-ground grits topped with collard greens.

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Fresh is the word. (top) When your closest neighbor raises high quality bison, a fresh bison rib eye is sure to be a menu favorite. (bottom) From the on-site garden comes the restaurant’s feature salad served with fresh shrimp.

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 47

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recipes cooking class

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Cooking with Bison

D

David Moeller teaches advanced culinary techniques in Sullivan University’s culinary arts program. It’s the class in a student’s education when all the tools, techniques and experience come together.

A common test for the students is to be presented with a “mystery basket.” The student has a limited amount of time to make a three-course meal out of the heretofore unknown ingredients in the basket.

That’s not unlike Moeller’s challenge here, where he’s presented with several bison cuts and must apply his knowledge to the challenge in front of him.

Moeller rose to the challenge with gusto. “I love bison because it’s better for you and it tastes like beef wants to,” he says. “The short ribs are amazing. They braise out nicely, they get real tender and full of flavor.”

As any fan of short ribs knows, the cut is loaded with fat but cooks into a succulent meal. The comparable cut of bison, however, has much less fat, yet all the tenderness. Moeller’s short ribs are served with creamy grits and a side of beets, whose “gastrique” of vinegar and wine acts as a foil to the rich meat.

The polar opposite is his bison tenderloin (a lean cut even on beef), which he balances with creamy corn sauce. The corn and sweet potatoes will make this a perfect dish going into fall.

David Walls, a chef instructor at Sullivan’s Lexington campus, takes a classic European approach to this indigenous American species. He’s cooking bison, but he’s serving a chateaubriand (roast tenderloin cut tableside, typically for at least two people) with classic béarnaise that he makes with duck eggs. And he uses bisons stewing cuts — bottom round or chuck — for a classic boeuf Bourguignon.

There’s a duck hatchery near Sullivan’s Lexington campus, so the eggs are clearly a local product, “and they make a beautiful béarnaise,” says Walls, adding, “We use as much Kentucky Proud as we can.” (Kentucky Proud is a trademark of the Kentucky Department of Agriculture for products that have some production aspect in Kentucky and are registered with the department.)

Cooking bison can be tricky. “It’s very lean and overcooking toughens and dries it more than another piece of meat,” says Walls. “High heat is not something you need.” Still, his students are “very interested in it” and he thinks the popularity of bison is gaining among the public. With recipes like these, it’s no wonder.

Braised bison short ribs with stone-ground grits and roasted beets.

48 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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Seared bison tenderloin with leek and corn cream and sweet potato puree.

Bison chateaubriand with duck egg bĂŠarnaise.

www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 49

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Braised Bison Short Ribs with Stone-Ground Grits and Roasted Beets (SERVES 4) 3

/4 cup canola oil Salt and pepper 2 pounds bison short ribs, trimmed and tied around the middle with cotton string 1 cup carrot, peeled and diced 1 cup onion, peeled and diced 1 cup celery, strings removed and diced 1 bottle red wine 2 quarts brown veal stock (or low-sodium chicken broth) 1 bouquet garnis (parsley, thyme and bay leaf tied together with cotton string)

In a deep, wide, heavy pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Season short ribs with salt and pepper. Add to pot and brown on all sides (do this in batches so there’s plenty of room for the ribs that are browning).

Pour off all but 1/4 cup of fat and place the pan over medium heat. Add carrot, onion and celery and cook to soften but not brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the red wine and scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen brown bits. Add short ribs back to pot, and add stock or broth to cover by half or two-thirds. Add bouquet garni.

Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover the pot and simmer until the short ribs are tender, about 2 hours.

Carefully remove short ribs from pan, strain the liquid to remove solids and place the juice in the pan back on the heat. Bring to a boil and reduce by about a quarter.

Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Strain and place back on heat to reduce slightly. Combine short ribs with liquid and reheat.

Grits 1 cup stone-ground grits, such as Weisenberger 4 cups milk Salt and pepper 1 cup shredded white cheddar or Gruyère cheese (optional) In a heavy sauce pot, heat 4 cups milk to scalding. Reduce heat and add grits, whisking constantly. Add a teaspoon of salt.

Continue to cook over low heat, stirring frequently until the grits are tender. Season with salt and pepper as needed and add cheese if desired.

50 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Roasted Beets 3 to 4 beets, peeled and quartered 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper 1 /2 cup sugar 1 /4 cup red wine 1 /2 cup red wine vinegar Toss beets in oil and season with salt and pepper. Wrap beets in foil and roast at 375 degrees until tender, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, in a heavy skillet, heat sugar until it melts and begins to brown, add wine and vinegar. (The liquid will boil violently and the sugar will solidify briefly, but do not try to stir it. The liquid will redissolve it). Reduce to a thin syrup, add roasted beets, stir to coat and serve.

Seared Bison Tenderloin with Leek and Corn Cream and Sweet Potato Puree (SERVES 4)

2 sweet potatoes Salt and pepper 1 1/2 cup heavy cream 2 ears corn Vegetable oil 4 bison tenderloin filets, about 8 ounces each 1 /3 cup julienne leeks 3 cups veal stock (or reducedsodium chicken broth) 2 tablespoons butter Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Season the bison with salt and pepper.

Heat a sauté pan over high heat and add enough oil to lightly coat the pan. Sear bison on both sides (in batches, if necessary, to give them plenty of room in the pan).

Place the seared bison on a roasting pan and place in the oven to cook to desired taste (no more than medium, to keep the meat juicy and tender. In the same sauté pan, add veal stock or chicken broth, reduce by half and season with salt and pepper. Add butter to stock reduction, swirl in and serve.

Sweet Potato Puree Place sweet potatoes in a 375 degree oven and roast until soft, about an hour. Peel and place in a food processor, puree and season with salt and pepper. Add 2 tablespoons cream. Reserve and keep warm.

Leek and Corn Cream Roast corn in its husks at 375 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes, remove husks and

cut kernels from cob. In a sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon oil. Add leeks and cook over medium heat to soften (but don’t brown).

Add corn and remaining cream. Boil vigorously to reduce to sauce consistency.

Season with salt and pepper.

Bison Chateaubriand with Duck Egg Béarnaise (SERVES 4) 1

1 to 1 /2 pounds bison tenderloin 1 /4 cup roasted garlic paste (recipe follows) Salt and pepper to taste 4 to 6 slices bacon Clarified butter (or vegetable oil) as needed Béarnaise sauce (recipe follows) Tie tenderloin with butcher’s twine to hold round shape. Season with salt and pepper.

Sauté the meat in clarified butter until evenly browned, but not crusty. Transfer the meat to a 300 degree oven and roast to an internal temperature of 120 degrees, about 25 to 30 minutes. Keep in mind tender cuts of bison will lose eating quality by over-cooking.

Remove meat from oven and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Coat the meat with the garlic paste, wrap with the bacon and secure with toothpicks, and place in 375 degree oven, turning occasionally to evenly render the bacon.

Remove toothpicks. Slice meat in 1/4-inch slices, add to plate, and sauce. Serve it with potato and vegetables of choice.

Roasted Garlic Paste 2 heads of garlic Olive oil as needed Kosher salt and pepper to taste Cut ends of garlic heads to expose cloves.

Place garlic on a small baking dish, drizzle with oil, season with salt and pepper, and roast at 350 degrees until soft and caramelized.

With the flat of a knife blade work garlic to a paste and adjust seasonings.

Duck Egg Béarnaise This sauce may be kept warm for an hour after it is made, but the heat must be kept steady (low) and it should be stirred frequently.

1 tablespoon chopped shallots 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

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1

/2 /2 3 1 1/2 1 1

teaspoon crushed peppercorns cup white wine vinegar duck egg yolks (substitute 4 chicken egg yolks) teaspoon lemon juice cup warm clarified butter Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

Bison Bourguignon

Combine the first four ingredients and, over medium heat, reduce to 2 tablespoons.

Put egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl and beat well. Pour the vinegar mixture through a fine mesh strainer into the yolks.

Over a double boiler, whisk the egg yolks continuously with a wire whip. As the yolks cook they will thicken. When the whip leaves a trail across the surface remove from the double boiler and whisk in the lemon juice. Add the butter a few drops at a time while constantly whisking to form the emulsion. The butter can be added more quickly once the sauce begins to thicken; continue until all the butter is incorporated.

Adjust the seasoning with salt and cayenne. If the sauce is too thick (it should pour), add lemon juice or tepid water.

Strain sauce through fine mesh and hold warm. Do not allow the sauce to go above 135 degrees.

Bison Bourguignon (SERVES 4)

This recipe includes both brown sauce and brown stock. Preparation instructions for both ingredients can be found in most cookbooks.

2 pounds boneless bison bottom round or chuck Vegetable oil as needed Salt and pepper to taste 4 tablespoons salt pork or bacon, cut in fine dice 4 tablespoons minced onion 2 tablespoons minced celery 2 tablespoon minced carrot (peel before mincing) 2 tablespoons flour 1 /3 cup tomato puree 1 pint red wine marinade (recipe follows) 1 cup brown sauce 2 cups brown stock 2 stems parsley 1 /4 teaspoon dried thyme 1 small bay leaf 1 /4 teaspoon cracked peppercorns

Red Wine Marinade 1 /4 1 /4 2 1 1

3

cup red wine cup olive oil cup lemon juice cloves garlic, minced teaspoon salt teaspoon pepper

Trim meat and season with the salt and pepper. Place in pan with marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours turning occasionally. Drain and reserve marinade.

Fry salt pork or bacon in 1 tablespoon hot oil until well browned; remove, and reserve. Dry meat with clean towels and sear gently on all sides. Remove and set aside. Heat oven to 325 degrees.

Add onion, celery, and carrot to the pan; cook, stirring occasionally, until the pieces begin to brown. Add flour and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Add tomato puree and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

Return the meat to the pan; add the marinade, brown sauce, stock and herbs. Bring to a simmer over high heat, cover pan, and place in oven. Cook 2 to 3 hours until the meat is fork tender.

Remove meat and vegetables. Degrease and strain sauce.

Return meat, vegetables and salt pork/bacon, heat thoroughly and serve. F&D www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 51

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▲

Alphabetical Index

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. RESTAURANT

Cuisine Style 72 72 74 74 75 75 75 75 71 70 59 60 67 78 78 63 80 81 67 76 76 76 76 77 56 66 77 78 72 78 67 69 62 80 62 57

Area Maps

82

dining guide

AFRICAN ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/FILIPINO ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/MONGOLIAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CARIBBEAN/CUBAN CASUAL DINING COFFEE/TEA HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN EUROPEAN/SPANISH FINE DINING HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN INDIAN MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL

MAP # DIRECTION PG # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH 12 old louisville – airport 93 SOUTH WEST 13 shively – pleasure ridge 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

52 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 72 211 Clover Lane 56 60 West Bistro 57 610 Magnolia 56 732 Social 57 8 China Buffet 72 A Nice Restaurant 63 A Taste of China 72 A.J.’s Gyro Café 78 Adriann’s Around the Table 60 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Adrienne’s Italian 76 Ahoy Fish Hut 62 Al Watan 78 Alexander’s Pizzeria 67 Alley Cat Café 60 Amazing Grace Deli 69 Amici´ 76 Anchorage Café 60 Angelina’s Café 76 Angilo’s Pizza 67 Angio’s Restaurant 68 Ann’s by the River 67 Annie Cafe 75 Annie’s Pizza 68 Another Place 69 Applebee’s 63 Arni’s Pizza 68 Aroma Café 60 Asahi Japanese 74 Asian Buffet 72 Asian Moon 72 Asiatique 57 Aspen Creek Restaurant 63 Atrium Café 59 August Moon 72 Austin’s 57 Avalon 57 BD’s Mongolian Grill 75 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 63 Backyard Burger 69 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 72 Bank Street Brewhouse 72 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 The Bard’s Town 71 Basa Modern Vietnamese 57 Baxter Station 59 Bazos Mexican Grill 78 Bean Street Café 8o Bearno’s Pizza 68 Beef O’Brady’s 71 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 74 Bendoya Sushi Bar 74 Big Al’s Beeritaville 71 Big Ben Café 63 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 66 The Bistro 66 Bistro 42 76 Bistro 301 59 Bistro Le Relais 59 Blackstone Grille 57 Blimpie’s Subs 69 The Blind Pig 63 BLU Mediterranean Grille 57 Blue Dog Bakery 60 Blue Horse Café 63 Blue Lagoon 62 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 60 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 72 Bombay Grill 77 Bonefish Grill 62 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 68 Boombozz Famous Pizza 68 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 68 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 68 Boomer’s Café 60 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 70 Borromeo’s Pizza 68 Bosna-Mak 76 Bourbons Bistro 59 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 70 Bravo!

57 Breadworks 81 Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub 76 Brian’s Deli 69 Bristol Bar & Grille 57 Brix Wine Bar 59 Browning’s Brewery 59 Buca Di Beppo 76 Buck’s 56

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 12 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 14 Cafés 5 Desserts/Bakery 16 European/Italian 16 Seafood 4 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Cafés 5 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 12 Cafés 5 European/Italian 5 Pizza 12 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining [7] Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 11 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Asian/Mongolian 6 Casual Dining 5 Sandwich/Deli 6 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Microbreweries 14 Home Style/Southern 2 Bar & Grill 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3, 6 Coffee/Tea House 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill 5, 8, 12, 14, 15 Asian/Japanese 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 2 Casual Dining 8 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafeterias 3 European/Italian 10 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Upscale Casual 10 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 2 Cafés 1 Microbreweries 1, 3 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 13 Pizza 3 Pizza 6 Pizza 2, 7 Cafés 1 Barbecue 11, 12 Pizza 12 European/Bosnian 4 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 5 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 European/Irish 3 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10, 12, 16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Bistro/Contemporary 1 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 12

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Buckhead Mountain Grill 63 Buffalo Wild Wings 71 Buffalo Wings & Rings 71 Bulldog Café 60 Bunz Restaurant 63 Burger Boy 69 Burning Bush Grill 78 Butcher’s Best Deli 69 Butterfly Garden Café 60 Café 360 78 Café Envy 63 Café Fraiche 60 Café Lou Lou 59 Café Magnolia 63 Café Mimosa 75 Café Montagu 60 Café on Fifth 69 Café Palacio 69 Café Thuy Van 76 Caffe Classico 80 Cake Flour 81 California Pizza Kitchen 68 Calistoga Bakery Café 69 Cancun Mexican Grill 79 Captain Pepper Jack’s 78 Captain’s Quarters 63 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 63 Carolyn’s 66 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 76 Caspian Grill Persian Bistro 78 Cat Box Deli 69 Catfish Haven Restaurant 62 Caviar Japanese Rest.

57 Cellar Door Chocolates 81 Champions Grill 63 Champion’s Sports Rest. 71 Charlestown Pizza Co. 68 Check’s Café 66 Cheddar Box Café 60 Cheddar’s Casual Café 63 The Cheesecake Factory 57 Chez Seneba African 72 The Chicago Gyro 69 The Chicken House 66 Chicken King 66 The Chili Pot 66 Chili’s 63 China 1 73 China Buffet 73 China Café 73 China Castle 73 China Garden 73 China Inn 73 China King 73 China Taste 73 Chinese Chef 73 Chinese Express 73 Choi’s Asian Food Market 74 Chong Garden 73 Chopshop Salads 64 Chopsticks 73 Chopsticks House 73 Christy’s Bar & Bistro 64 Chung King 73 Cici’s 68 City Café 60 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 70 Clarksville Seafood 62 Clifton’s Pizza 68 Coach Lamp 57 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Cocos Lokos Caribbean 78 Coffee Crossing 80 Coffee Pot Café 80 Come Back Inn 77 The Comfy Cow 81 Conez & Coneyz 69 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 56 Corner Café 58 Cottage Café 66 Cottage Inn 66 Cozza Osteria Enoteca 77 Crabby Jake’s Fish House 62 Crave Café & Catering 60 Cravings a la Carte 67 Creekside Outpost & Café 60 Cricket’s Café 61 Crystal Chinese 73 Cuba Libre 78 Culver’s 64 Cumberland Brews 72 Cunningham’s 64 The Cupcake Shoppe 81 Cyclers Café 61 Dakshin Indian Restaurant 77 DaLat’s Gateuux & Bakery 81 Danish Express Pastries 69 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 68 Day’s Espresso 80 De La Torre’s 77 Del Frisco’s 62 Derby Café 61 Derby City Dogs 69

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Casual Dining 4, 8, 16 Bar & Grill 2,3, 5, 6, 8, 13,15 Bar & Grill 8, 11 Cafés 12 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 12 Middle Eastern 10 Sandwich/Deli 10 Cafés 2, 3 Middle Eastern 2 Casual Dining 1 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Sandwich/Deli 3 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Coffee/Tea House 2 Desserts/Bakery 1 Pizza 5 Sandwich/Deli 1,3 Mexican 6 Middle Eastern 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Middle Eastern 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Seafood 13 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 2 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 16 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 5 Casual Dining 8, 12, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Home Style/Southern 12 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 13 Casual Dining 1, 3 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 2 Caribbean/Cuban 6 Coffee/Tea House 14 Coffee/Tea House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Desserts/Bakery 7 Sandwich/Deli 2 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 5 Home Style/Southern 12 Mexican 16 Seafood 11 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Cafés 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban 16 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Desserts/Bakery 3 Cafés 2 Indian 11 Desserts/Bakery 12 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 Coffee/Tea House 2 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 2

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Derby City Espresso 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 Derby Dinner Playhouse 67 Entertainment Dining 16 The Dessert Gallery 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Desserts By Helen 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 2 Devino’s 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Diamond Pub & Billiards 71 Bar & Grill 3 Difabio’s Casapela 77 European/Italian 2 Dish On Market 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Ditto’s Grill 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Don Pablos 79 Mexican 15 Donegan’s Restaurant & Pub 71 Bar & Grill 2 Dooley’s Bagels 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Double Dragon 73 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 Double Dragon II 73 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Downtown Diner & Coffee House 61 Cafés 14 Dragon King’s Daughter 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Dueling Grounds Café 61 Cafés 14 Dynasty Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Eggroll Machine 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Einstein Brothers Bagels 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 79 Mexican 15 El Caporal 79 Mexican 4,6,15 El Mundo 79 Mexican 2 El Nopal 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 12, 14 El Nopalito 79 Mexican 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 79 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 79 Mexican 13 El Sombrero 79 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12 El Toro Cantina & Grill 79 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 73 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 56 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Rest.

76 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 61 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 79 Mexican 5, 6 ET’s Memphis Bar-B-Q 70 Barbecue 16 Eva Mae’s Creekside 64 Casual Dining 10 Expression Of You 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 The Falafel House 78 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 70 Barbecue 6, 15 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 68 Pizza 1, 2, 5 Feed Bag Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 8, 11 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 70 Barbecue 1, 13 First Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 62 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 62 Seafood 3, 5 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 64 Casual Dining 8, 14 Five Points St. Matthews 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Flanagans Ale House 71 Bar & Grill 2 Fleur de Lis Café 61 Cafés 2 Fork in the Road 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Forty Acres And A Mule 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Four King’s Café 71 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 71 Bar & Grill 3 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 70 Barbecue 2, 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 69 Sandwich/Deli 7 Frolio’s Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Asian Bistro 74 Asian/Japanese 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 74 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Fun Food Café 61 Cafés 2 Gasthaus 76 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 64 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 66 Home Style/Southern 2 Gerstle’s Place 71 Bar & Grill 3 Gigi’s Cupcakes 81 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 66 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Star Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Wall 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 64 Casual Dining 8 Granny’s Apron 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Granville Inn 72 Bar & Grill 12 Grape Leaf 78 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Desserts/Bakery 5, 14 Great Life Café 69 Cafés 6,8,15 Great Wall 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Green Room Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 6 Hall’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 74 Asian/Japanese 10 Hanoi Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Happy China 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 70 Barbecue 16 Havana Rumba 78 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5 Hawksview Gallery 58 Upscale Casual 12 Hazelwood Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 53

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Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 74 Asian/Japanese 7 Hill Street Fish Fry 62 Seafood 12 Hillbilly Tea 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 Hitching Post Inn 72 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 Home Run Burgers & Fries 64 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6 Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen 81 Desserts 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 11,15 Hometown Buffet 66 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 68 Pizza 5, 7 Honey Creme Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Honeybaked Café 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 Hong Kong Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 12 Hooters 64 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Howl at the Moon 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Hunan Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 11 Ichiban Samurai 74 Asian/Japanese 6 IHOP 64 Casual Dining 6, 15 Improv Comedy Club 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Incredible Dave’s 67 Entertainment Dining 8 Indi’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub 72 Bar & Grill 7 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 58 Upscale Casual 1 The International Mall 77 European/Italian 1 The Irish Rover 76 European/Irish 2, 7 Iroquois Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Istanbul Palace 78 Middle Eastern 8 J. Alexander’s 58 Upscale Casual 3 J. Graham’s Café 61 Cafés 1 J. Gumbo’s 78 Cajun/Creole 1, 2, 5, 6, 12 J. Harrods 58 Upscale Casual 10 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 56 Fine Dining 14 Jack Fry’s 58 Upscale Casual 2 Jack’s Lounge 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Jackson’s Seafood 62 Seafood 14 Jade Garden Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Jade Palace 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 4 Jasmine 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Jason’s Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Java Brewing Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2, 5, 10 Jazzyblu 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 62 Steakhouse 1 Jersey Mike’s Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Jersey’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 15 Jessie’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Jimbo’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 12 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 69 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2, 3, 6, 14 Joe Davola’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Joe Huber Restaurant 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Joe’s Crab Shack 62 Seafood 1 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 78 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 64 Casual Dining 5 John E’s 58 Upscale Casual 4 John O’Bryan’s Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 13 Johnny V’s 68 Pizza 6 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Barbecue 5 Jumbo Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Kansai Japanese Rest.

74 Asian/Japanese 15 Karem’s 64 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 78 Indian 2 Kayrouz Café 61 Cafés 3 Kern’s Korner 64 Casual Dining 2 King Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 3 Kingfish 62 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Kings Fast Food 66 Home Style/Southern 1 King’s Fried Chicken 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Kobe Japanese Steak 74 Asian/Japanese 16 Koreana II 75 Asian/Korean 12 KT’s 58 Upscale Casual 2 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 La Bamba 79 Mexican 2 La Bodega 77 European/Spanish 2 La Colombiana 77 European/Spanish 8 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 77 European/Italian 2 La Monarca 79 Mexican 11 La Que 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 La Rosita Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 14, 15 La Rosita Taqueria 79 Mexican 15 La Tapatia 79 Mexican 2 La Vida Java Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 7 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 14 Las Gorditas 79 Mexican 11 Lee’s Korean 75 Asian/Korean 12 Legend’s 64 Casual Dining 14 Lemongrass Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Lenny’s Sub Shop 70 Sandwich/Deli 4 Liang’s Café 73 Asian/Chinese 8 The Lighthouse 72 Bar & Grill 16 Lil’ Loafers Bakery 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Lilly’s 56 Fine Dining 2 Limestone 56 Fine Dining 5 Ling Ling 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 Little Chef 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 Little India Café 78 Indian 4 Little Jerusalem 78 Middle Eastern 12 Liu’s Garden 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Logan’s Roadhouse 62 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 79 Mexican 12 Longhorn Steakhouse 62 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 70 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3 54 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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Los Aztecas 79 Lotsa Pasta 70 Louisville Grille 66 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Luigi’s 68 Lunch Today 70 Lynn’s Paradise Café 64 Ma Zerellas 68 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 75 Maido Essential Japanese 74 Main Eatery 70 Main St. Tavern 72 Maker’s Mark Lounge 58 Manhattan Grill 64 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Martini Italian Bistro 77 Maxwell’s Bar & Grille 64 Mayan Café 80 McAlister’s Deli 70 The Melting Pot 58 Meridian Café 61 Mexican Fiesta 80 Mexicano 80 Mexico Tipico 80 Mexico Viejo 80 Michael Murphy’s 72 Michele’s On Goss 58 Midori Japanese Restaurant 74 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 74 Mike Linnig’s 62 Mimi’s Café 64 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 66 Mitchell’s Fish Market 62 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 77 Molly Malone’s 76 The Monkey Wrench 64 Morris Deli & Catering 70 Morton’s of Chicago 63 Mr. Gattis 68 Mr. Lou’s 66 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 64 My Favorite Muffin 81 My Old KY Dinner Train 67 My Patria 80 Nancy’s Bagel Box 70 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Napa River Grill 58 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 64 New Albanian Brewing Co. 68 New China 73 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 Nile Restaurant & Lounge 78 Nord’s Bakery 81 North End Café 58 O’Charley’s 64 O’Dolly’s 66 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 76 The Oakroom 56 Oasis Japanese Restaurant 75 Oceanside Restaurant 78 Oishii Sushi 75 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 68 Old Louisville Coffee House 80 Old Spaghetti Factory 77 Old Stone Inn 58 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 The Olive Garden 77 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Omar’s Fast Food 78 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 73 Orders Up Café & Deli 70 Oriental House 73 Oriental Star 73 Original Impellizzeri’s 68 Osaka Sushi Bar 75 Otto’s Café 64 Our Best Restaurant 66 Outback Steakhouse 63 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 58 Palermo Viejo 77 Panda Chinese 74 Panera Bread Co. 70 Papa John’s 68 Papa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Papalino’s 68 Passtime Fish House 62 Pat’s Steak House 63 Patrick O’Shea’s 76 PattiCakes Café 61 Patticakes & Pies Café 61 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Paula Deen Buffet 64 Peking City Bistro 74 Penn Station 70 Peppers Bar and Grill 64 Perfetto Pizza 68 Perkfection 80 Pesto’s Italian 77 Pho Binh Minh 77 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 The Pie Pantry 81

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Mexican 1, 7, 10 Sandwich/Deli 3 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 6 Pizza 1 Sandwich/Deli 16 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 15 Asian/Thai 16 Asian/Japanese 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 1 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 1 Barbecue 2, 5, 13, 14 European/Italian 8 Casual Dining 6 Mexican 1 Sandwich/Deli [8] Upscale Casual 6 Cafés 3 Mexican 4 Mexican 11 Mexican 5, 13 Mexican 2 Bar & Grill 1 Upscale Casual 12 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Japanese 3 Seafood 13 Casual Dining 5 Home Style/Southern 2 Seafood 8 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 8, 11, 15 European/Spanish 7 European/Irish 2, 3 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 4, 5, 12, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Coffee/Tea House 1 Casual Dining 2 Desserts/Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 12 Mexican 5 Sandwich/Deli 1 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 7 Casual Dining 14 Pizza 14 Asian/Chinese 5 Bar & Grill 8 Caribbean/Cuban 12 Desserts/Bakery 12 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 Home Style/Southern 12 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 12 Middle Eastern 4 Asian/Japanese 2 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 12 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 5 Barbecue 11 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 12 Asian/Chinese 14 Sandwich/Deli 5 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 12 Pizza 2, 10 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern 11,12,16 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 Upscale Casual 5 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 1, 5, 6, 8, 12, 15 Pizza [30] Pizza 3, 5, 8, 11, 13, 14, 15 Pizza 2 Seafood 6 Steakhouse 2 European/Irish 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 14 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 5 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 1 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 16 European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Cafeterias 5, 6 Desserts/Bakery 13

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Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 78 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 78 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 78 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza By The Guy 68 Pizza 5 Pizza King 68 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 68 Pizza 4 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Ponderosa Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 12 Porcini 77 European/Italian 2 Proof On Main 58 Upscale Casual 1 Pub Louisville 64 Casual Dining 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 68 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 80 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Mexican [11] Queen of Sheba 72 African 4 Queenie’s Soul Cuisine 66 Home Style/Southern 4 Queue Café 61 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee Shop 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Quizno’s Subs 70 Sandwich/Deli [12] Rafferty’s of Louisville 64 Casual Dining 3, 8 Ramsi’s Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 64 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Star Tavern 58 Upscale Casual 1 Red Sun Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 76 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 71 Barbecue 1 River City Winery 60 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Riverbend Winery 58 Upscale Casual 1 Rivue 56 Fine Dining 1 Rocky’s Sub Pub 68 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 77 European/Italian 5 Roosters 64 Casual Dining 12, 13 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 72 Bar & Grill 8 Rosticeria Luna 80 Mexican 12 Royal Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 11, 12 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 71 Barbecue 12 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Mexican 15 Ruby Tuesday 64 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 64 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 62 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 11 Saffron’s 78 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Middle Eastern 1 Saint’s 72 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 75 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 75 Asian/Japanese 3 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Sam’s Food & Spirits 64 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe Grill 80 Mexican 12 Sapporo Japanese Grill 75 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 74 Asian/Filipino 2 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 8 Scotty’s Ribs 71 Barbecue 5 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 78 Cajun/Creole 5 Senor Iguana’s 80 Mexican 5, 12, 15 Sergios World Beers 72 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 71 Barbecue 12 Shady Lane Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Asian/Chinese 6, 12 Shalimar Indian 78 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 71 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Sharom’s 62 Seafood 11 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 76 European/Irish 2, 4 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 12 Shogun 75 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 64 Casual Dining 2, 12 Sichuan Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 68 Pizza 1 Simply Splendid Salads 64 Casual Dining 5 Simply Thai 75 Asian/Thai 3 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 68 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 80 Coffee/Tea House 12 Sitar Indian Restaurant 78 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 65 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 13 Slammer’s Sports Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 13 Smoketown USA 71 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Barbecue 6 Snappy Tomato 68 Pizza 8, 10 Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 1, 2 Sonny’s Island Grill 72 Bar & Grill 16 Sonoma Coffee Café 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Soupy’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 4 Spaghetti Shop 77 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 2, 8 Sporting News Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 The Sports & Social Club 72 Bar & Grill 1 Spring St. Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 2 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 62 Seafood 3 Starbucks Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House [35] Starving Artist Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 65 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevie B’s Burgers & More 65 Casual Dining 15 Stevens & Stevens 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 77 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 63 Steakhouse 8

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Stop Lite Café 61 Cafés 1 Studio Pizza 69 Pizza 15 Studio’s Grille & Pub 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stumler Restaurant 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 11 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee/Tea House 12 The Swan Dive 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sweet Stuff Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sweet Surrender 61 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Sweet-Tee’s 67 Home Style/Southern 12 Taco Bueno 80 Mexican 6 Taco Tico 80 Mexican 13 Tacos Toreados Taqueria 80 Mexican 6 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 Taj Palace 78 Indian 8 TanThai Restaurant 75 Asian/Thai 14 Taste Of Asia 74 Asian/Chinese 8 TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 74Asian/Chinese 8 The Tequila Factory 80 Mexican 2 Texas Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 Texicans BBQ Pit 71 Barbecue 7 TGI Friday’s 65 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 75 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 75 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 75 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 75 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 75 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 72 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 61 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 61 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 61 Cafés 12 Theater Square Marketplace 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Third Avenue Café 61 Cafés 1 Third Street Coffee House 81 Coffee/Tea House 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tiffany Cellar Café 61 Cafés 5 Tilted Kilt 65 Casual Dining 3 Toast On Market 65 Casual Dining 1, 14 Tokyo Japanese 75 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster’s Rest. 65 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 69 Pizza 12 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 69 Pizza 5 Trailside Café 81 Coffee/Tea House 7 Trellis Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 1 True Thai 75 Asian/Thai 11 Tubby’s Pizza 69 Pizza 7 Tucker’s 65 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 77 European/Italian 12 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 2 Umai Zushi Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 8 Uptown Café 59 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 59 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 14 Vietnam Kitchen 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Village Anchor Pub & Roost 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 56 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizza 69 Pizza 12 Volare 77 European/Italian 2 VT’s Bubble Cup 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 W.W. Cousin’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 75 Asian/Japanese 2 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 65 Casual Dining 7 The White Oak 59 Upscale Casual 1 Whitney’s Diner 61 Cafés 4 Wick’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 5, 8, 13, 14 Wild Eggs 61 Cafés 3, 7 Wiltshire On Market 59 Upscale Casual 1 Windsor Restaurant & Garden 59 Upscale Casual 14 Windy City Pizzeria 69 Pizza 12 The Wing Zone 66 Casual Dining 12 Winston’s 56 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 62 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 59 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 62 Cafés 1 Yang Kee Noodle 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Yellow Cactus 80 Mexican 14 Yen Ching 74 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 74 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Za’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2 Zanzabar 72 Bar & Grill 12 Zapata’s 80 Mexican 5 Zaxby’s 66 Casual Dining 16 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2 Zen Garden 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zen Tea House 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 Zeppelin Café 62 Cafés 12 Zoe’s Kitchen 78 Middle Eastern 1, 8 Z’s Fusion 57 Fine Dining 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 57 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC  = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andrew Smith has added a 1300 bottle wine cellar and private dining room to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine from long time Chef Troy Schuster.

This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ p f ✿

56 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for over two decades.

Former namesake and house manager Buck Heath recently retired, but the high quality of food and service remains. $$$ p f e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ p ✿ JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ p h LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution approaching its quarter-century mark, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt and former partner Michael Cunha have

RED = ADVERTISER

established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Cunha’s friendly departure to train the next generation of chefs at Sullivan leaves the kitchen in Gerhardt’s capable hands. $$$$ p ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) and his chef de cuisine Bobby Benjamin continue to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA five-diamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239.

You can still get a revolving view of the city in this upscale dining room. But a major makeover in 2007 has completely transformed the dark old Flagship Room into a sleek black and white modern fantasy right out of an old Fred Astaire movie. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes.

Nationally noted in many food magazines, Lamas has exposed diners to the cooking traditions of the Americas with his always interesting Gusto Latino wine dinners, another fine value in the dining scene. $$$$ p f h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the

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staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S FUSION 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Consummate restaurateur Mehrzad Sharbaiani (Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse) spent $2 million to remake this 10,500 square foot space into a cool, sophisticated oasis. The menu’s ingenious and delicious take on fusion cooking and the excellent service make this an exceptional dining experience at surprisingly reasonable prices. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich environs outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar with an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails.

New chef Ray Ramirez offers appealing, fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$ p f e ✿ 732 SOCIAL 732 E. Market St., 583-6882. Since chef-owner Jayson Lewellyn opened the doors of his sleek, intimate spot in the midst of the NuLu art district, crowds have flowed in, both for the innovative small plates, always-changing menu, and the creative bartenders who practice the art of preProhibition cocktail crafting. Dishes are designed to be shared, so be sure to bring a convivial and hungry group. $$$ p f ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners

to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations.

His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿ AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. With a new look and a refocusing of the menu on upscale value dining, Avalon has once again found its direction. We always try to sit on the three-season patio, one of the best in the city. $$$ p f ✿ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ p BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Prospect, KY, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿ BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿ BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo!

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chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿ COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. Hurricane Katrina blew chef Richard Lowe into town, bringing from New Orleans his Cajun/ Creole/Caribbean magic to Coach Lamp’s kitchen.

The restored 137-year-old building has a classic bar on one side and an upscale white-tablecloth dining room on the other side. $$$ f ✿

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CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ p ✿ HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shephardsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$$ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant restaurant space in Actor’s Theatre of Louisville’s historic building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿ J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿ J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville

institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ p e h ✿ JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Owner John Shanchuck caters to the horseracing crowd. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ p e ✿ KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009.

Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h ✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ MICHELE’S ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5909.

Michele Brinke has taken over the space in the Goss Avenue Antique Mall that used to be Olivia’s.

The large, airy space will serve up lunch to mall browsers, and dinner as well. $ f ✿ NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141.

Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish new quarters of this popular, decade-old East End restaurant. With an expanded

menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s now anchoring Westport Village center, a trendy new hangout. $$$ p f h ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

Known for their hearty and interesting breakfast choices, The North End also satisfies diners at lunch and dinner. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine $$$ f h ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ p f e ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360.

Seasoned executive chef Michael Paley’ s everchanging creative menu continues to make Proof a destination dining spot, the culinary equal of the quirky 21c Museum Hotel which has garnered national notice. Mediterranean in focus, with a commitment to using local products as much as possible, the adventurous dishes (grilled octopus, bison burgers, beef marrow, sea salt caramel gelato) are made with the freshest ingredients. $$$ p ✿ RED STAR TAVERN 450 S. Fourth St., 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Fourth Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h RIVERBEND WINERY 120 S. Tenth St., 540-5650.

Watch the winemakers in action, crafting 20 varieties

Featuring local bison & sustainable produce with 50+ Kentucky Bourbons

MEAT downtown

Named one of Esquire * Best New Restaurants and one of Food & Wine * / Best American Wine Experiences at the award-winning 21c Museum Hotel

702 WEST MAIN STREET LOUISVILLE KY 40202 PROOFONMAIN.COM 502.217.6360 58 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes, as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale casual eatery just west of downtown. Weekly chefs dinners with wine pairings at reasonable prices. $$ p e ✿ UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212.

Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

THE WHITE OAK 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. This NuLu stalwart has undergone some changes recently, but continues to serve up Southern comfort food using classical techniques and local suppliers. Look for dishes such as Southern-style fried chicken, cornmeal-dusted fried catfish and chicken-fried bison steak on the ever changing menu. $$ p f e h ✿ WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry and Chef Coby Ming’s finely crafted small plates change weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients available, with no dish over $15. Open Thur. - Sat. only.

Reservations suggested. $$ f ✿ WINDSOR RESTAURANT & GARDEN 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9688. New chef Nick Davis

has scaled back the price point a bit but is maintaining the quality at this upscale casual restaurant, housed in an historic hotel building.

When weather permits, diners can enjoy the charming courtyard. $$$ p f e ✿ YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920’s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. After a long run as a fine dining establishment, owner Anthony Dike has recently reinvented his restaurant as a bistro, sparked by the arrival of new chef Bill Lynch. $$$$ p f e ✿

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BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.

It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, featuring the works of French-trained chef Michael Crouch. No, it’s a great bar, with what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Actually, this Crescent Hill favorite is both, and the bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. Don’t miss the duck confit strudel appetizer. $$$ p f ✿ BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ h e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 5150174. Brewmaster Brian Reymiller crafts a lovely range of beers and ales, and the upscale, inventive “tavern fare” menu created by chef Anoosh Shariat, who continues to oversee the operation, has returned Browning’s to a dependable, lively, pleasant venue in the popular Slugger Field. $$ p f ✿ CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood.

A second location in the Douglass Loop, is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ p ✿ DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669.

Anderson Grissom, former Asiatique bar manager, has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale breakfast and lunch spot. Look for egg dishes, of course, and biscuits and gravy, smoked salmon hash and a pancake of the day.

Lunch includes soups, salads and sandwiches such as shrimp po’ boy or spicy black bean burger. $ p ✿

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Offering a variety of wonderful creations to bring more taste to your table!

DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ p h ✿ FIVE POINTS ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 896-5680. The last time this location enjoyed success was when it was known as Rick’s. After four short-lived incarnations, Five Points St. Matthews is poised to reclaim that success by playing off the synergy of this burgeoning dining corridor. Solid new management is skewing to a younger demographic with a menu of American standards, pastas and vegetarian fare. $$ p f h HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Street Live, 568-2202.

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿ JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿ JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ p e h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable atmosphere and excellent bistro fare with a creative twist from Chef Rick Adams add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban.

Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices and late night hours add to the draw. $$ f e h ✿ RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 945-9463. The newest area winery, open since late spring. Several of owner Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2009 Indy International Wine Competition, and since summer has been offering a well-crafted appetizer style menu to pair with the wines. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ e ✿ THEATER SQUARE MARKET PLACE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. The old Kentucky movie theater has been impressively renovated into a classy in-theround bar with a sophisticated cocktail menu and a sleekly designed dining space serving ambitious nouvelle southern cuisine for lunch and dinner. Up front is a wine and spirits shop, a gourmet grocery and an upscale takeout deli. Plans are afoot for an extensive secluded patio. $$ p f h ✿ VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station, this Euro-village inspired concept has two levels. The top (the Roost) will be a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge, with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs, at The Sea Hag, the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food style menu will be served lunch and dinner, with plans for weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with over 50 craft and import choices, and 55 bourbons that will mark inclusion on the Urban Bourbon Trail. $$$ p f h ✿

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ADRIANN’S AROUND THE TABLE CUISINE 14041 Shelbyville Rd, 244-9695. Located out beyond the Snyder in the far East End, Adriann’s offers family style diner fare ranging from sandwiches and wraps to fried chicken $ ✿ ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ ✿ THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880.

This new coffee bar and café in Anchorage offers Counter Culture coffees and a small but eclectic menu of sandwiches, paninis and salads. Serving breakfast and lunch, with daily specials. $ f ✿ AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.

Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ h ✿ BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the U.S., and competitive with the best in Europe. Its comfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ p f ✿ BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582-3220. Host Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican accent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty, at this sleek and sophisticated spot across Main from Slugger Field. A coffee house by day, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $ f h ✿ BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this breakfast and lunch spot offers standard American café fare, and serves breakfast on Saturdays. $ BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fh✿ BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1474. This tasteful little spot that offers teas and lighter lunch fare in an attractive old-house setting on Bardstown Road has opened a second ladies’ lunch spot inside Dolfinger’s in St Matthews. $ f ✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishops Ln., 451-6357. $ ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $$ f ✿ CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739.

Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿ CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿ CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm.

Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish,

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black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿ CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg, IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a restaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿ DOWNTOWN DINER & COFFEEHOUSE 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8680. $ DUELING GROUNDS CAFÉ 604 E. Spring St., New Albany, IN, 944-3617. This coffee bar “plus,” located in Destination’s Booksellers in downtown New Albany, serves up espresso-based drinks, teas and smoothies, as well as paninis and soups.

House-baked breads by the loaf and desserts are also part of the mix, as are vegetarian and vegan options on most menu items. Most items on the menu are under $4. $ e ✿ ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Fourth St., 587-9390, 455 S. Fourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FLEUR DE LIS CAFÉ 1574 Bardstown Rd., 456-6566.

Kyle and Jill Riggle bought the former Sweet ‘n’

Savory Café, and after a long winter and spring of renovation of the physical space and the concept of the restaurant, are now open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Look for an upgraded breakfast menu, and revamped lunch offerings crafted from locallysourced ingredients, and something new: a dinner menu with beer and wine. $$ p ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ f p KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2630.

Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ f ✿ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ PATTICAKES CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 238-7387.

Located in the Mellwood Arts Center, Patticakes serves homemade soups and sandwiches — and cake, of course. Owner Patti Fadel offers more than 50 varieties of pound cake! $ f✿ PATTICAKES & PIES CAFÉ 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8510. In downtown New Albany, this little storefront café serves breakfast and lunch, makes hearty paninis and salads, and bakes up cakes, pies, muffins for takeout. $ ✿ QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

STOP LITE CAFÉ 1348 River Rd., 584-3746. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 8992008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Now well-settled in its new location just off East Broadway, The Café serves an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. And the new space retains the old place’s yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere. $ f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. $f✿ THE LUNCH PAIL 502 E. Warnock St., 634-7116.

Offering yet another quick and comforting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year-round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿ THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. With a menu featuring many vegetarian and vegan options, this pleasant neighborhood eatery attracts loyal crowds with excellent fare and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e ✿ TIFFANY CELLAR CAFÉ 11601 Main, 245-4411. $ f ✿ WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Breckenridge Ln., 454-5955.

For many years a Fern Creek landmark before a short move west, Whitney’s remains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. We recommend the “Grandpa style roast beef.” $ ✿ WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866. The owners of Napa River Grill have hit a home run with these popular, highquality spots, the first two in a growing mini-chain.

Wild Eggs, serving breakfast, brunch and lunch, features traditional favorites and specialty omelets, with upscale touches at moderate prices. $ p ✿ www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 61

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WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ f YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0220. $ f h ✿ ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿

AHOY FISH HUT 2902 Bardstown Rd., 451-5508.

An upper Highlands outlet that has been delighting the neighborhood with fish tacos, fried and broiled cod, and homemade buttermilk pie. All dishes cooked to order — nothing hangs around under heat lamps. $ f ✿ BLUE LAGOON 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The Sharom family, who operate Zaytun Mediterranean Grill and Sharom’s on the Outer Loop, has a new seafood place, on the site of the old Diamante’s.

Hopes are high for an aquatic take on their falafel and hummus staples. $$ f h ✿ BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿ CATFISH HAVEN LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ f CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition.

The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ CRABBY JAKE’S FISH HOUSE 6435 Bardstown Rd., 365-3474. The owners of the former Bruce’s Smokehouse have re-oriented themselves around fried fish, (“Fish is our bread and butter,” the manager said) with a little bit of barbecue and chicken for the seafood averse. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿ HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ p f

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RED = ADVERTISER

KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474.

Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work.

Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 2674633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ f e RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’s, where the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perfectly prepared. Known for their fish sandwich, daily specials take advantage of fresh product. $ ✿ ] DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. (See listing under Fine Dining.)

JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The downtown setting doesn’t hurt either, on Waterfront Plaza at Main and Fourth, next to the Galt House. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes.

The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashvillebased chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p

p = FULL BAR f = OUTDOOR DINING e = LIVE MUSIC

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MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 2312399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Be sure to bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $$ STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h

BIG BEN CAFÉ 10600 Meeting St., 749-6326. Handcrafted sandwiches, flatbread pizzas and fish and chips specials. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian soup of the day choices. $ h ✿ B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.

A popular hangout since its opening earlier this year, this Euro-style gastropub features French country cooking and house-made sausages and charcuterie in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in an late19th century building in Butchertown. $$ p e h ✿ BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ p h ✿ BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. New delivery and catering operations extends the brand beyond the three locations. $$ p f h ✿ BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132.

This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts excellent quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ h CAFÉ ENVY 570 S. Fourth St., 569-0508. During the day, it’s a lunchspot in the center of busy 4th Street, serving up sandwiches, fried shrimp and catfish, ribs and salads. At night, it’s a lounge with a dance floor, catering to the “mature adult crowd” between the

ages of 30 and 45. Entertainment provided by DJs and live acts, overseen by the owners of JazzyBlu in Glassworks. $$ p f e ✿ CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p ✿ CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿ CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿ CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿ CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ p ✿

TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

(Green Tree Mall), Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy. 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 2809160, Jeffersonville, IN, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ APPLEBEE’S (7 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service.

It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ p h ✿

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ ✿ CHRISTY’S BAR & BISTRO 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy.

(InnPlace Hotel), 491-4830. $ p CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 River Rd., 614-6338.

One of a cluster of down-home style eateries just as River Road veers off into Prospect, Eva Mae’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The open, waterside dining room is down-home and laid back at lunch, but gets a little crowded and rowdy as the drinks-before dinner crowd stops in on the way home. Food and service can be erratic, but a lot of fans rave about ambience and the chow. $$ p f FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany, IN, 944-9958, 4320 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-7370, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshlygrilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’ roll sensibility. $ h GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its longstanding reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ p f e h INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. The familiar IHOP franchise across the river has now been joined by another outlet along the franchise restaurant row on Hurstbourne. $ h ✿ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h 64 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646.

Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $ p f KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 5833447. A serious restaurant hides behind the funky décor and madcap events (like the annual New Year’s Eve pajama party and the Ugly Lamp contest). The Bourbon Ball French toast beat Bobby Flay on a Throwdown. And everyone loves the fried green tomato BLT. The World of Swirl store in the front has been described as “Cracker Barrel on acid.” $$ p ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿ MAXWELL’S BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. The former Maggie’s, reopened under new ownership, providing more choice for casual, family-centered dining in the Jeffersontown area.

Salads, sandwiches, burgers, flatbread pizzas, honey-miso glazed salmon, Hot Browns, kabobs and a full bar. $$ p f h ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its reputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service.

The long-awaited rooftop patio is open and packing them in on warm evenings. $ p f e h ✿ MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort.

Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoe-shaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports.

The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ p f h NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg, IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always freshly made.

Breakfast served until 2 p.m. — look for the bison sausage served with organic eggs. $$ p ✿ O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet

RED = ADVERTISER

flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif will be based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there will be a shop attached, where you can purchasing aprons, cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$ ✿ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$ p h ✿ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Street Live 569-7782.

Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.

The Robin, a Seattle-based chain well regarded for “gourmet burgers” and trimmings, has now landed in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ p f h ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330. This Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first two Louisville properties are gaining popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners. You’ll now find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SIMPLY SPLENDID SALADS 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3373. Another pleasant spot for lunch or take-home dinner for shoppers and workers along the Shelbyville Road-Hurstbourne Parkway nexus.

Choose from an interesting selection of huge salad bowls (Asian shrimp, tuna Nicosia, chicken Caesar) or piled-high crepe wraps (Philly cheese steak, vegetarian, Hawaiian chicken, chicken and Brie) for eat-in or take-away. $$ ✿

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SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview Village Center, 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020.

Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ h ✿ STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿ STEVIE B’S BURGERS & MORE 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN 288-8365. Located near WalMart and I-65. Stevie B’s lures hungry shoppers to dress their own burgers at the toppings bar. Or, fuel up on Philly cheesesteaks, cheese chicken sandwiches, or a quarter-pound chili dog. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿ TILTED KILT 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 409-8458. A franchise restaurant, notable for its skimpily plaidclad servers as much as its pub-style food. The aggressively cute menu offers “big-arse” burgers, various sandwiches, salads and wraps, entrées ranging from lasagna to “Longshanks” sausage platter to “Fat Bastard’s” meatloaf sandwich. Pizza and a short beer list are also available. $$ p TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite housed in an old downtown theater building has opened a second location on New Albany’s growing restaurant row.

Chef George Morris’ simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f ✿ TOMMY LANCASTER’S RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. Value and variety are the strong points of this community tradition and the fare goes from burgers to steak.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café fare in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy. 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. It may be in the country, and you may feel far from the big city, until the food comes. Along with the requisite meat loaf and pork chops, you’ll find such ambitious fare as chicken buccatini and blackened scallops. $$ e ✿

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THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 9200080. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville has its own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ f h

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes.

Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h THE CHILI POT 8118 Preston Hwy., 966-9920. This Okolona outpost serves up chicken salad sandwiches, hot dogs, grilled cheese and garden salad.

Oh, and four kinds of chili: Louisville-style, green pork (with tomatillos), sirloin steak and white chicken. $ h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Now under new management by the Kreso family, Cottage Inn sports a bright new look, and it continues happily doling out the kind of excellent downhome food it has served for more than 70 years. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD FAMILY RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The 66 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

RED = ADVERTISER

word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿ GENNY’S DINER 2223 Frankfort Ave., 893-0923.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genny’s, provided that you set your expectations for hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville, IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026.

Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. Country cooking is Jessie’s specialty, with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Broadway, 772-7138.

This tiny, colorful West End eatery, open for takeout only, offers a vast selection of filling, affordable urban fare that ranges from hot-and-spicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LOUISVILLE GRILLE 612 S. Fifth St., 217-0000. Chef Michael Washington, veteran of Big Hopp’s, smokes pork and beef, fries and grills chicken, and catfish, and builds cold and hot sandwiches, salads and soups for diners at the corner of Fifth and Chestnut. $ MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085. This little Butchertown storefront serves deli lunches and Saturday breakfasts in a charming, homey atmosphere. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room. $$ MR. LOU’S COUNTRY COTTAGE RESTAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s country cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ ✿ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410, 2835 Holmans Ln., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8133, 5612 Bardstown Rd., 239-2656. The original Our Best, a fine family restaurant in Henry County, is rapidly growing into a chain, with three properties in the big city now. $$ QUEENIE’S SOUL CUISINE 2956 Richland Ave., 451-4698. Queenie has been cooking for her 13 siblings since she was a teenager. Finally she is getting

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paid to do it. She and her son serve breakfast, lunch and dinner: chicken and waffles, meatloaf, a soul burrito, chicken (fried, smothered or baked) and daily specials. $$ f SWEET-TEE’S 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 966-0075. A modest little soul-food emporium, brimming with the aromas of Southern ambrosia: collard greens cooked with fatback, sweet potato pie, crusty ribs and slow-cooked pig’s feet. The chicken is fried while you wait, the way the customers like it. $ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round.

Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food.

Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ ✿ THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This little spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz since it opened last year. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a

variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ ✿

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.

(See listing under Bar & Grill.)

DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h

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IMPROV COMEDY CLUB & WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Fourth St., 581-1332. The menu is no joke at this downtown club. Chow down on well-grilled steaks, fresh seafood and ribs that rank with the best in the city before the nationally-known comedy acts start. $$$ p f e h ✿ INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿ JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ p ✿ STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, roast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with

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pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿

DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 635-7994. $

attracting happy crowds to the quarters vacated by Alameda. $$$ p f h ✿

ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿

FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿

PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿

ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop.

Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $ p ✿ BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ f ✿ BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. The little Boombozz take-out joint at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane has moved across the street, taking over the former Patron’s space, and changing its name, becoming a Boombozz Taphouse in all but its name—and the fact that it will be serving beer in bottles only. Look for the Taphouse-style menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies. $$ h ✿ BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare.

Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded twice within a few months, with these sit-down pizza and taphouses The menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The newest venue, in Westport Village, has been attracting a varied crowd enjoying the hearty and well-crafted food, the excellent beer selection and the array of sporting events on the TVs. $$ p f h ✿ BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743.

Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $ h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 944-4942, 3093 Breckinridge Ln., 452-6700.

Serious bargain-hunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat. This Dallas-based chain serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730.

One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $ f e h ✿ 68 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040, 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-0840, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $ ✿ FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿ HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Square Shopping Center, 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ p f LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr., 267-8600, 5622 Preston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111, 12418 LaGrange Rd., 241-5445. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿ LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Preston St., 635-6708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd. Impellizzeri’s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has returned to the Highlands! Benny Impellizzeri’s latest venture is already RED = ADVERTISER

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mudd Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 161 Outer Loop, 361-3444, 4607 Outer Loop, 964-7272, 12535 Shelbyville Rd., 2539191, 6756 Bardstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-7272, 2221 State St., New Albany IN, 945-7272. $$ ✿ PAPALINO’S 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Allan Rosenberg, who has cooked for several high-end restaurants, has opened this Highlands New York style pizza-by-the-slice place, to considerable enthusiasm. He offers just one size, an 18-incher, sold by the pie or the oversize slice, as well as calzones, breadsticks and a short list of salads and desserts. Choose from a dozen premium toppings, vegetarian and meaty, to go with the crispy crust. $

fh✿

PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 4264644.Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Avenue. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ ✿ PIZZA BY THE GUY 814 Lyndon Ln., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise, now in larger quarters, wins its fans’ praise for extra spicy sauce and handtossed dough. $ h ✿ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appelaton, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées.

Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana, and some hoppy draft as you contemplate the Louisville skyline. Or call in for delivery to Jeffersonville, Clarksville or Louisville. $pf✿ SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 631 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 469 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205, 13206 W. Hwy. 42, 228-9990. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832. This tiny storefront in the city’s nightclub zone offers a tasty option for the wide-eyed-late-at-night crowd seeking good cheap eats; it’s open until 5 am nightly from Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philadelphia specialties: Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. Now serving at a second spot in the suburbs. $ f h ✿

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STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville, IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ ✿

BUTCHER’S BEST MEATS & DELI 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ f

TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Preston Hwy., 634-5400. Friendly service and sizzling pies make this neighborhood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿

CAFÉ ON FIFTH 239 S Fifth St., 585-2874. Formerly Down to Lunch, in the basement of the Kentucky Home Life Building. Standard good quality lunch fare of burgers, sandwiches and soups for the downtown business crowd. $ ✿

TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 Vieux Carre Dr., 4290606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$$$ ✿ TUBBY’S PIZZA 103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8870. Jeffersonville’s venerable quadrangle — it dates back to the Civil War — is the perfect setting for settling back over a pitcher of beer, a Hoosier-style pizza (sliced in squares) and catching a game on one of the wall-mounted flatscreen TVs. $$ h

CAFÉ PALACIO 4010 Dupont Circle, 708-1818.

Serving lunch to workers in the Dupont area five days a week. $ ✿ CALISTOGA ARTISAN SANDWICHES 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3779, 401 E. Chestnut St., 561-9092. “Papa” John Schnatter, founder of the worldwide pizza chain that bears his name, is taking another shot at the fast-food world with the more upscale Calistoga Artisan Sandwiches that some have likened to Panera Bread. $ f ✿

VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ p f e h ✿

ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ p ✿

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carrots, bean sprouts, seeds and roots, think again. No animals were harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ail Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing.

Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h

DERBY CITY DOGS 960 Baxter Ave., 561-2880. This walk-up hot-dog storefront serves Nathan’s brand all beef hot dogs with gourmet style toppings, bratwurst, corn dogs, veggie dogs, side dishes, ice cream and smoothies — they’ll even give your real doggie a treat if she’s along with you. Catering to the nightclub crowd, it’s open until 5 a.m. on the weekends. $ f h ✿ DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 583-3828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 980 Breckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354.

This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee.

At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿

WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333, 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 945-9425. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿ WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708.

Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desires. $$

into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿

EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ f ✿

Looking for an opportunity to open your own restaurant, purchase an existing one, or just need some consulting and advice? Call, text or email the Houston group for a confidential meeting or review of strategies that might work for you. Many spaces never hit the headlines.

We can help you find that hidden gem!

Houston D. Jones, Jr. 13121 Eastpoint Park Blvd.

Eastpoint Office Park, Suite 7G Louisville, KY 40243 502.419.7799 • 502.499.9916 Fax

www.thehoustongroup.net CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿ THE CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. $ f e ✿ CONEZ & CONEYZ 2716 1/2 Frankfort Ave., 8977222. As the name suggests, this new place in the former Café Glacé space is about ice cream (“conez”) and hot dogs (“coneyz,” a bit more of a stretch). The selection includes hot dogs and sausages, soft-serve cones and other desserts. A few small tables, but mostly takeaway service. $ f h DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ ✿ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany, IN, 941-9426. $ JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830.

East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 967 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany, In. 725-8580. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ f h ✿ www.foodanddine.com Fall 2010 69

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JOE DAVOLA’S 901 Barret Ave., 690-5377. Near the government center in the lower Highlands, this popular sandwich shop features healthful choices for lunch. $ ✿

nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $

LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 4547831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semifast food. $ f ✿

ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Orders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dropping in to someone’s home for lunch. Soups salads and freshly made sandwiches are uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿

LIL’ LOAFERS BAKERY 8522 Preston Hwy., 9693990. For years, hairdresser Sheryl Lukenbill used to bake banana breads and other treats as gifts for her customers. Her goodies were so popular that now Sheryl and her husband Paul have gone fulltime with Lil’ Loafers Bakery. $ ✿

PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿

LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-7567. Every city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef.

Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs, and burgers, in a joint that seems like a throwback to the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ ✿ LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 1034 Bardstown Rd., 4512965. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit prepares its share of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 587-2353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.

An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the

70 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ ✿ PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (12 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ RED’S 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” has thoroughly refurbished the former Picnicaters into a spotless “hot-daug stand” offering gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Take away, or sit at one of the nine stools lining the little building and watch the passing parade. $ f ✿ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿ SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ ✿ SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $✿ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075.

The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿

RED = ADVERTISER

TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 581-9200. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’s reasonably priced Western Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ ET’S MEMPHIS BAR-B-Q 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 280-2227. Memphis style brisket and pulled pork. Sides of creamy sweet coleslaw and hearty smoked beans. Afterwards, try the blackberry cobbler ala mode. $$ f FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that FireFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223, 1202 Bardstown Rd., 384- 8077. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. Now with a second venue in the old NV Bar Grill (next to the Wine Market) on Bardstown Road. $ p f h HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-4490.

Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $

p = FULL BAR f = OUTDOOR DINING e = LIVE MUSIC

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JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the premises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 285-1998. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smoky Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e h

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.

On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30seat lounge is run by Jon DeSalvo former owner of the Willow Lake Tavern in Anchorage. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. There is food and beverage service, but it is not a dinner theater.

Opening in September. $$ h p e h ✿ BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2542322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-5496, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 285-9464. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ h

CHAMPIONS SPORTS RESTAURANT 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246.

Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿ DONEGAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 938 Baxter Ave., 562-1234. Another bar and grill has been added to the Revelers’ Row along Baxter in the Highlands, with 42 craft and import beers on tap, and a full service lunch and dinner menu ready to be phased in. $ p f e h FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h

BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p

BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h

FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a Wichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiard tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿

BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0029. $ p f h

GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e h ✿

SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this TexMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the the Smoketown neighborhood. Ribs are juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood.

241-9227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops.

Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name remains on this neighborhood joint out the road in Oldham County. $

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f h ✿ INDIGO JOE’S SPORTS PUB & RESTAURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1633. Louisville’s first outpost of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’s is a family-friendly American-style sports bar. It features large portions and 44 flat-screen televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the sporting event of their choice. $$ p f JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e h ✿ JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿ MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Longstanding blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ p e h MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full service restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ p f h SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿ SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337.

Sergio built up a loyal following in his Shelbyville location, so that may account for the stealth presence he has established in his new Butchertown digs: minimal signage, a quirky Web site, an aura of haughty mystery. If you can locate the place, it almost seems as if you need a secret word to enter. What you really need is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ h ✿ 72 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

SLAMMER’S SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2800 Crums Ln., 618-3588. A kid-friendly sports bar, with 20 large flat screens and one huge (110-inch) one.

Expect a reasonably-priced pub menu (ribs, burgers, sandwiches) and plenty of opportunity to drink beer while catching any game you want. $ p f e h SONNY’S ISLAND GRILL & THE BAMBOO LOUNGE 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. Take an island vacation just across the river. The chef of this new river front restaurant hails from Hawaii, and plans a fresh seafood option each weekend. Above the first floor grill the Bamboo Lounge provides couches, a pool table, TVs and live music. $$ p f e h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramont Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ p f h ✿ THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ p h ✿ SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ p h STEINERT’S 401 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 9458827. The name has been on the Southern Indiana restaurant/bar scene since 1880. The newest incarnation, amid the booming New Albany Main Street area, features family-style dining until 9 p.m., in a room adjoining the bar, with live music, open-mic nights and other late-evening entertainment. $ p e h STUDIO’S GRILLE & PUB 207 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 590-3171. Add Studio’s to the downtown New Albany Renaissance. Trish Meyer’s fine dining room and bar offers an historic environment, a stylish outdoor courtyard and a gallery of local art. $$ p f h SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h THE SWAN DIVE 921 Swan St., 632-1299. A longtime Germantown hangout has been reincarnated as an all-vegetarian hipster bar and grill.

“Meatloaf,” Philly “cheesesteaks,” and “French dip sandwiches” all have been reframed meat-free.

They also offer a solid craft beer selection and eclectic entertainment on weekends. $$ p e h ✿ THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-0659.

One of the city’s friendliest pubs lost one of its long-time owners, Mike Ewing, recently, but his partner John Dant is keeping his spirit alive at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 9444338. $ ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70’s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ p f h ✿

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BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany, IN, 725-9585. With long-time Le Relais souschef Joshua Lehman at the helm, the food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has sharpened into Belgian-style bistro cuisine. Mussels and frites will always be available, and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ p f ✿ BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224. A must-stop destination for beer lovers on the national artisanal-brew trail, but it’s more than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both liquid and solid fare, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. $ p f e ✿ BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., (See listing under Bistros.)

CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033.

Not just another in the herd of all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this 350 seat eatery is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿ 8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿ ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ ✿ AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ p f ✿ BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this

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Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range.

Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ ✿ CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ ✿ CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ ✿ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿

GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿ GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ ✿ HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ ✿ HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿

HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿

HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿

JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 8930822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ ✿

CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-5580. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buffet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿ DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The continuing proliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to report that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4591259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ph✿ EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater.

Outstanding. $$ p ✿ EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿ FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿ JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventurous side with a selection of more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿ JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188.

Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188.

Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898.

Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-0188.

Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿

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ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ h ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ ✿ TASTE OF ASIA 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1111. A short but appetizing menu covers four nations: Japan, Vietnam, Thailand and China. Choose from potstickers, lettuce wraps, chicken satay or egg rolls. Or maybe Thai and Vietnamese dinner-size soups, nine choices of sushi roll, or stir-fry over steamed or fried rice or lo mein noodles. $ ✿ TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing

cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ f ✿

BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿

UMAI ZUSHI BUFFET 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 3298181. $ ✿

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿

WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ ✿ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿

CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ ✿

YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿

DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at this popular new café at the corner of Bardstown Road and Elmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $pf✿

YUMMY WOK 1801 Priority Way., 266-5801. $ h ✿

FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$ p ✿

YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $

ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.

This small room in a new St. Matthews building houses this neighborhood sushi spot where awardwinning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿

FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9538. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant is drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿ MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar, cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ MIDORI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Japanese fare joins the options in the Whittington Parkway/Hurstbourne area with the arrival of this new venue. Expect Japanese standards — udon soup, teriyaki beef and sukiyaki — along with sushi. $$ p ✿ MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor,

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entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ p f h ✿

building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ p ✿

OASIS JAPANESE RESTAURANT 3311 Preston Hwy., 375-8766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya sushi restaurant have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ h ✿

SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029.

Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿

OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sapporo, has been attracting raves from neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite has opened a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ ✿ SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ p h ✿ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Now it has a second location downtown in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway. $$$ p h ✿ SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿ WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions.

Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce $$ h ✿

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,”

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SIMPLY THAI 318 Wallace Ave., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, offering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿ TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ ✿ THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 493-4073. This location has been known for good Thai restaurants, and the short history of Thai Orchids shows that they have picked up the mantle, providing Jeffersontown-area lovers of southeast Asian cuisine with excellent noodles and curries. $$ ✿ THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿ TRUE THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. A bright, attractive little place (just 4 tables) run by a former employee of Thai-Siam, one of Louisville’s longest running Thai restaurants. 30 standard Thai dishes (pad thai, curries, fried rice) priced under $10. $ ✿

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. A fire last winter gutted the former location to the walls, but resourceful owner Phat Le recently reopened in the old Lentini’s building and is once

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again serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and panAsian dishes to happy regulars. $ p h ✿

catfish po’ boy and bison and goat cheese lasagna. $$ p e h ✿

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.

A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ p f ✿

HANOI CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. The former Lemongrass Café changed ownership and its name, but continues to serve up tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare in the heart of St. Matthews. Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are on the menu. $$ ✿ LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $ f h ✿ LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114.

Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes.$ f ✿

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919.

Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿

O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor.

Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ p f e h ✿ PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This newest downtown creation of the Flanagan’s/ O’Shea’s pub mini-empire has beautifully refurbished one of the old warehouses just east of the new stadium, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ p f e h ✿ RI RA IRISH PUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ p f e h ✿ SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919, 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. Now with a second location out in Buechel. $ p f e h ✿

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ f ✿

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$

AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Scott and Sharon Risinger serve satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ p f ✿

GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177.

Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$

ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr., 326-5555. $ ✿

BRENDAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. This St. Matthew outpost of the O’Shea’s Irish bar empire reeks with atmosphere.

The brick walls look aged, the wood weathered and photos of old St. Matthews line the walls. Irish and non-Irish love the bar and the menu has daily specials, like the leprechaun hangover burger, 76 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿

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BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552.

Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ h ✿ BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban

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shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ COZZA OSTERIA ENOTECA 214 Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4406. Italian fusion cuisine is what owner Al Papsodero is offering in the pleasant space that once housed Timothy’s. That’s the kind of Italian cooking done in Brooklyn, Al’s hometown. Sample dishes: chicken Modena, salmon piccatta, fennel-roasted organic pork loin, rigatoni pomodoro. $$ f p h ✿ DIFABIO’S CASAPELA 2311 Frankfort Ave., 8910411. Ray Parrella’s is gone, but almost immediately DiFabio’s Casapela snuck into the old Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccatta, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ f ✿ THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ ✿ LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. The successful formula of this Ohiobased chain features hearty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas served up in a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria.

An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ p f h ✿ OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿ PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ p ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) $$$$ p e h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secured Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining.

The recent addition of U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has been receiving rave reviews. $$$

pf✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955.

Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿ LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179.

Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndonarea restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish.

Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ p ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojitos quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461.

Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ p f ✿

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4258892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿ DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿

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KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 4793353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentilbattered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabi-style (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿ TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. The owners of the old India Palace have opened a new restaurant in the space vacated by the Goose Creek outlet of Seviche. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ ✿

A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. A recent name change now reflects what this Southern Indiana eatery has always done well, serving up authentic Greek gyros and side dishes.

Open April through November only. $ f ✿ AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ BURNING BUSH GRILLE & MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ f ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ CAPTAIN PEPPER JACK’S AERO BISTRO 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 454-2777. The name, the travel posters, the location near Bowman Field all contribute to the aeronautical mood. The menu itself flies all over the world, too, from Americanstyle fried chicken and bar food to Caribbean plantains with mango marmalade to Middle Eastern kabobs and gyros. $$ p h ✿ CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. Joining the growing ranks of Louisville’s Persian restaurants, this small Highlands dining room is gaining good word-of-mouth for well-prepared food and cordial service. $ ✿ THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ 78 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774.

Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ f ✿ ISTANBUL PALACE 2840 Goose Creek Rd.,425-6060.

Turkish cuisine comes to suburban Louisville.

Many dishes will be familiar, for the eastern Mediterranean populations share a lot of culinary ideas. You’ll find pita and hummus and lentil soup, gyros, falafel, taboulleh and baba ghanoush. But also mujver (zucchini fritters) and iskender and doner (variations on kebabs) and other truly Turkish foods, such as cigarette pie — phyllo pastry rolled around tangy feta cheese and herbs and deep-fried. $$ f h ✿ LITTLE JERUSALEM 3825 Taylor Blvd., 6181806. This Shively-area Middle Eastern restaurant has acquired a loyal following for its hummus, chicken and rice plates, falafel and gyros. $ f ✿ OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 4543737. This Hikes Point spot, run by a friendly Moroccan couple, offers a variety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eastern accent. A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $ OMAR’S FAST FOOD RESTAURANT 1272 S. Preston St., 637-1515. Comfort food south-east Asian style.

The owner’s wife brings family recipes and culinary study in Pakistan to bear on familiar fare such as chicken korma, chicken handi and biryani, and the Omar kebab, made with ground beef, onions and tomatoes. $ ✿ PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ ✿ PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ h ✿ SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Louisville’s first quality Persian restaurant is as interesting as the spice for which it’s named and as smooth as its owner, Majid Ghavami. Roasted duck “fesenjoon” means “food of life,” and life would be much worse without this dish. But you must also try the lamb. $$$ p ✿ SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. Offering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly grew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful storefront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands Middle Eastern eatery—excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $ h ✿ ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now comes twice to Louisville. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ ✿

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096, Fourth Street Live, 5899245, 3115 S. Second St., 363-8888, 13301 Magisterial Dr., 326-3070, 8603 Citadel Way, 4934720. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320, 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2080.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ p f h

COCOS LOKOS CARIBBEAN CUISINE 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. You can find a taste of the Caribbean islands here: mofongo from Puerto Rico (grilled chicken over plantains), lechon adobado (Cuban roast pork), tostones, yucca, sweet potato fries and dishes with a Dominican accent. Chill out with tropical cocktails at the bar. $$ p e ✿ CUBA LIBRE 1725 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-9000. The singular joys of Cuban cuisine can now be found on the sunny side of Louisville. Partners Leo Lopez and Nairobi Aparcedo and chef Rafael Hernandez serve up traditional Cuban dishes such as pernil de puerco asado — slow roasted pork marinated in citrus juices, garlic and Cuban spices — tostones, congris — seasoned black beans and white rice — and tamales, all priced under $10. Look for daily specials, like paella. $$ h ✿ HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $ p f ✿ NILE RESTAURANT 5312 S. Third St., 384-9030. $ p h

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907-C S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ f ✿

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CANCUN MEXICAN GRILL 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e ✿ DON PABLO’S 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, offers full bar service and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿

EL RODEO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ p ✿

EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿

EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run

by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ p ✿

EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿

EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272, 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿

EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249. This modest little eatery used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family from Mexico, it’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL REY MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’s more Mexican-American than hard-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns our recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food environment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿

ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ p f e ✿ FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ p ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish,

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 113 Grant Line Ctr., 948-7967. Housed in an historic storefront, this Mexican restaurant breaks from the pack by presenting traditional Mexican dishes not found elsewhere. The Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria fare. $ f ✿ LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p ✿ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿ LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find.

Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450.

Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p ✿

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MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán has returned to his original location in the burgeoning NuLu gallery district, and updated it into a stylish bistro. The distinctive cuisine, from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, treats pork, scallops, mussels and even lima beans memorably. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ MEXICANO 6911 Shepherdsville Rd., 962-8526.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ ✿ MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880. $ ✿ MY PATRIA 808 Lyndon Ln., 339-9420. $ ✿ PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Curch Rd., 239-4646. $$ p ✿ QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (11 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ✿ ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown.

Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ ✿ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿ SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581. These three MexicanAmerican eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿ SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666. Saul Garcia, who’s known for the local chain of Los Aztecas eateries, has started this new chain, raising the bar with a broader menu. His many Los Aztecas fans will find familiar dishes, along with some pleasant surprises. $ p h ✿ TACO BUENO 2350 Shane Dr., 493-2008. This growing Texas-based chain, a competitor to Taco Bell, now has a location in the Louisville metro.

Early reports declare it “better than the Bell.” $ f ✿ TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ ✿ TACOS TOREADOS MEXICAN TAQUERIA 9109 Galene Dr., 468-3524. The Lyndon-based taco truck has settled down just outside Jeffersontown, serving up its authentic, budget-priced Mexican fare. $ ✿ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they

80 Fall 2010 www.foodanddine.com

will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿

from several artisanal roasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers. $ f e ✿

THE TEQUILA FACTORY 917 Baxter Ave., 459-9191.

The multi-level building on Baxter Ave.’s restaurant corridor has had a checkered history. Its newest incarnation is a bar and grill with an extensive list of tequilas, a tapas bar, and an economical lunch and dinner menu focusing on hearty, familiar Mexican dishes. $ p f e h ✿

EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ f e ✿

YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs, IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana Tex-Mex restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ p h ✿ ZAPATA’S CORNER 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 690-8100.

Owner Tony Mora honors Emiliano Zapata, one of the folk heroes of the Mexican Revolution, at his restaurant in Middletown. Authentic too is his cuisine-mole poblanos, fried whole Huachinango fish and a meaty trio of chicken, beer and chorizo making up the El Brasero. $$ p h ✿

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ p f ✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (15 locations).

Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern fare adds steaks and grilled fare to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in droves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ e h ✿ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿

GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9388. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f HILLBILLY TEA 120 S. First St., 587-7350. It’s a breakfast place, with hearty egg dishes, bison sausage patties, tofu scramble and potato bake casserole. It’s a tea café, with choice of black, green, herbal or rare teas. It’s a lunch and dinner spot, with unusual offerings: sorrel and potato soup, roadkill stew (made with game), smoked catfish, frog legs, barley salad with summer squash and tea egg, moonshine pork, pine-smoked bison, and a long list of desserts. It’s an unusual place downtown that immediately started pulling in fans. $ ✿ THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B U.S. Hwy. 42, 2922710, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Fourth Street Live, 561-2041, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ LA VIDA JAVA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4129393. La Vida Java offers espresso drinks and pastries in this welcoming spot in the Westport Village shopping center. $ f MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129.

Its move to Bardstown Road updated its image, but faithful fans find that the joe is still fine, as are the pastries, and everyone lingers, with laptops and books. $ RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911.

The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ ✿

DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f

SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f ✿

DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’s roster of serious coffee shops, Derby City features quality coffee

STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f

RED = ADVERTISER

SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $

p = FULL BAR f = OUTDOOR DINING e = LIVE MUSIC

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SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTERY 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee, another in the growing cadre of espresso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿ THIRD STREET COFFEE HOUSE 711 S. Third St., 749-0026. $ f TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VT’S BUBBLE CUP 1043 Bardstown Rd., 452-8899.

Tea houses are a new rage. This Highlands place features a cute variation, bubble tea — a tapiocabased soft drink. Japanese teens love it. $ h ✿ ZEN TEA HOUSE 2246 Frankfort Ave., 618-0878.

Another entry in the Tran family’s Frankfort Ave. restaurant row. There is tea, of course, black, green, and white and herbal infusions, spring rolls, soups, and paninis, all vegetarian. $ f e h ✿

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿ CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f ✿

wrapped in choux pastry are also available. Eat in or take away. $ THE DESSERT GALLERY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 326-0700. You’ll find just about anything you could want in the way of a dessert at this East End shopping center storefront, from cakes to brownies and cookies, and it’s all hand-made from natural ingredients. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ ✿ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573, 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4422. $ ✿ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6000. $ HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany, IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building

offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ THE PIE PANTRY 9208 Dixie Hwy., 384-0743.

Lunch is served at this Southwest Louisville eatery but the main focus — and the strongest reason to drive out that way — is the dozens of varieties of homemade pies. Portions are large and the selection extensive. $ f ✿ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite doughnuts by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. $ ✿ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 8954554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿

CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 930 Baxter Ave., (inside Quill’s Coffee Shop) 561-2940. Erika Chavez-Graziano has been working some small miracles at the back of this Highlands coffee shop, turning out luscious, inventive chocolate confections that she sells at various venues around town, as well as at Quills. Her 365 Days of Chocolate project has gained her considerable notice with weird-sounding but delicious creations such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ f THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979. A newfashioned ice-cream parlor in the Westport Village Center that has captured the fancy of customers from the start, which was in the winter, so that seems to say something about the classy décor, the oft-changing flavor selections in the freezer (salty caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter) and the rich, house-made desserts (cookies, cheesecakes, pies and brownies). $ h THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ ✿ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH 12 old louisville – airport 93 SOUTH WEST 13 shively – pleasure ridge 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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MAP • 11

(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

MAP • 10

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

MAP • 15

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SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

649 SOUTH 4TH STREET 502.589.3333

J A PA N E S E

G R I L L

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DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL AT BARDSTOWN RD. LOCATION ONLY

A N D

S U S H I

1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550

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Louisville’s favorite spot for Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch

‘‘Wild Eggs ... I Think I Love You.’’

DUTCHMAN’S LANE AND W E S T P O RT V I L L AG E crackinwildeggs.com