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FALL 2005
say cheese everything you need to know about cheese: how it's made, how to buy it, how to enjoy it
PLUS
700
late night dining a guide to dining after midnight in louisville
RESTAURANT
REVIEWS INSIDE!
road trip dining in columbus $4.99 U.S.
recipes
cooking with fromage www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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Z’s steaks are selected from Prime mid-western aged beef, hand-cut to order and cooked the way you like it. Z’s seafood is purchased directly from “day boat fisherman,” prepared simply and cooked to perfection. Don’t call prior to 4:00 p.m. about seafood specials for the evening… Chef is still at the airport… we just don’t know, yet! Z’s oyster lovers can select from both East and West Coast oysters!
Lunch
Monday – Friday
11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Dinner
Monday – Thursday Friday – Saturday Sunday
5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. 5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m. 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Louisville’s ★The ★ ★★&◆◆◆◆ Courier-Journal Restaurant
2005 America’s Top 10 Seafood Houses
Opened in October 2000, Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse is independently owned and operated.
101 Whittington Parkway Louisville, KY 40222 Telephone (502) 429-8000 Facsimile (502) 339-0335 www.zsoysterbar.com
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Choose Your Dealership
As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.
You’re Riding On Our Reputation!
The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region. As the #1 used car dealer, Sam Swope is also The Used Car Authority with over 1,000 vehicles to choose from for immediate delivery. A Sam Swope Premier Pre-owned vehicle offers a quality automobile, at the right price, backed by an exclusive package of owner benefits including a 7 day exchange policy, warranty coverage up to 60 days, and complimentary Emergency Roadside Rescue. You can buy with confidence from a Sam Sw ope dealership. Quality automobiles. Competitive prices. Outstanding service. Once you see all that the Sam Swope Auto Group has to offer you will understand why‌
Swope Discount AutoCenter I I-64 & S. Hurstbourne Parkway I Louisville, KY 40299
502-499-5000 I www.SamSwope.com
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FALL 2005 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS DAVID DOMINE MARTY ROSEN MELANIE WOLKOFF CONTRIBUTING CHEFS ROB BEIGHEY COLLEN ENGLE CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT CRITIC MARTY ROSEN CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR MELANIE WOLKOFF ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE TOM SFURA
Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 Single copies $4.99, Annual subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.
___________________________________
For advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550
ON THE COVER Volare’s Chef Dallas McGarity (see page 36) offers pan-roasted Chilean sea bass over ponte nuovo potatoes with toasted pancetta and sautéed bab y spinach, topped with sun-dried tomatoes and caper tapenade.
Photo by Dan Dry
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contents FA L L 2 0 0 5
FEATURES SAY CHEESE
16
MEET THE CHEFS
34
AFTER MIDNIGHT
38
Everything you need to know about cheese: how it’s made, how to buy it, how to enjoy it. Writer David Domine catches up with five of the city’s hot chefs who’ve been on the move recently.
Hungry at midnight? Our man Mar ty Rosen tries to find an excellent meal, good service and a nice glass of wine in the w ee hours.
16
COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS
30
Tracking the Louisville restaurant scene with our comprehensive quarterly report on openings and closings.
10
SIDE DISHES
Noteworthy culinary and restaurant happenings.
12
GADGETS KITCHEN ESSENTIALS: Cutlery
14
Choosing the most important tool in the kitchen—the chef ’s knife.
LIQUIDS CORK 101: Wine and Cheese
38
Pairing just the right wine with just the right cheese .
SPIRITS: Cold Weather Cocktails
Getting warm with classic heated and spik ed beverages.
HIP HOPS: A Man Walks Into A Bar
26 28 30 32
Bartender or beer lover, how do you go about recommending a beer?
TEA: Warming Up to Tea
A user’s guide to tea varieties and ho w to brew the perfect cup.
46
34
TRAVEL ROAD TRIP! Columbus
44
Ron Johnson takes us on a quick tour of the Columbus dining scene .
RECIPES TOP CHEF RECIPES
46
Sullivan University guest chefs give us four delicious cheese dishes.
HUMOR I KNOW WHAT IT MEANS TO MISS NEW ORLEANS Flooded-out writer Jay Forman finds a smile in a tough situation.
RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE
A comprehensive listing of 900+ restaurants with 700 reviews
MAPS
Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 ar ea maps.
50 52 82
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005
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It will be our pleasure to serve you. Open for dinner nightly and at noon on Sunday . Extensive Wine List and Full Service Bar. Private dining room and priority seating available. Gift Cards available.
s t o n e y r i v e r. c o m
3900 Summit Plaza Drive • At the Summit Plaza Shopping Center • Louisville, KY • (502) 429-8944 ©2005 11828
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&goings
comings
As we do every quarter, Food & Dining comes up with a quick,rough-and-ready diagnosis of the health of the local restaurant business by tracking recent restaurant openings and closings . This round, the doctor’s report is good, amid considerable activity: Roughly 30 new restaurants have opened for business around the metro area, while only about 20 (including, unfortunately, a disproportionate share of mom-and-pop ethnic spots) closed their doors.
OPENINGS Perhaps the hottest recent opening f eatures Primo, restaurateur Bim Deitrich’s latest venture, a stylish spot in a new building at 445 E. Market Street, near Slugger Field. Deitrich, a pioneer of the local restaurant industry who helped star t the bistro boom in the 1970s, recreates the casual Italian concept of his late Allo Spiedo and moves it upscale here. In the chain arena, two hot new cor porate concepts are dr awing huge crowds in the East End, with a wait of up to three hour s reported for dinner at P.F. Chang’s China Bistro at 9120 Shelbyville Road, and an hour or tw o at The Cheesecake Factory, 5000 Shelbyville Road in the St. Matthews Mall. Also in the ’b urbs, pizza enthusiasts who’ve been missing Benn y Impellizzeri’s heavy-laden pies since he closed the famil y’s Highlands pizzeria will be delighted to see him back in b usiness in the Lyndon Crossing shopping center, 812 Lyndon Lane. Speaking of pizza, there’s more: Tony Boombozz’s familiar face turns up at a new sub urban location with a spiffy touch of style . Tony Boombozz Pizza &Vino, 2813 N. Hurstbourne Parkway in Springhurst, offers his a ward-winning pizzas in a br ushed-up “urban loft” setting, with well-chosen wine and beer selections to go with the casual Italian fare. Plus, Fat Tony’s Pizza moves in to replace Brick Oven Pizza at 9910 Linn Station Road, specializing in thin-cr ust, flavorful New York City-style pies and filling pasta dishes. On the pizza-chain front, Northern Kentucky’s Snappy Tomato chain stepped in to replace the Pizza Magia locations, with similar pizzas and, as a side dish, hot Buffalo-style wings worth a second look. In Butchertown, New Jersey expatriates Frank and Deb bie Travisano have opened the cozy diner -style Time to Eat Café in the premises vacated by the shor t-lived Fusion at 1605 Story Avenue. In Jeffersontown, partners Gene Stovall and Susan Cain offer homemade muffins and bagels and more at A Little Taste of Heaven Café in the histor ic old Seaton House , 10320 Watterson Trail. (No relation to the late , lamented Little Taste of Heaven in Crestwood, Stovall says.) On the ethnic-eats front, please welcome Al Watan, a first-rate Near Eastern restaurant and bak ery, 3713 Klondike Lane, and Liu’s Garden, with authentic Chinese fare in a hospitable familyrun setting, 11517 Shelbyville Road in Middletown.There’s a taste of the exotic East in Karma Café, a casual dining room that 10 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
replaces Rendezvous Cafe at 1126 Bardsto wn Road. Prefer Mexican? Marimba Mexican Restaurant, Louisville’s first outpost of the most popular Mexican restaurant in Shelby County, is open in the former Maharajah at 2901 Brownsboro Road; and Saul Garcia’s Sol Aztecas brings a Latino beat to the f ormer home of Steam Fire & Ice , Diamonds and Timothy’s at 2427 Bardstown Road. For more Americanized Mexican, a corporate burrito-barn concept has ar rived at St. Matthews’ Woodlawn Center in the form of Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina, a free-standing casual eater y and bar at 285 N. Hubbards Lane. Meanwhile, Southern Indiana sa ys welcome to Tran Japanese Steakhouse, 4317 Charlestown Road. Other recent arrivals on the local scene: Duke’s Grille & Bar , in the Holiday Inn at 4004 Gardiner Point, and Ocean Buffet, 11300 Maple Brook Way on the Kentucky side , and Jersey’s Café at 1515 Lynch Lane in Clar ksville.
CHANGES Out in Crestw ood, Lanie Spooner has expanded her Lanie’s Latte from a coff ee-and-pastry shop to a full-ser vice family restaurant that’s drawing locals’ applause, now known as Station House Seafood Grill, 6000 Crestwood Station. Also in Oldham County, Heather of the eponymous Heather’s on the River has leased out the property to proprietors Cherri
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CLUB GROTTO AMERICAN BISTRO
and Rick Bro wn, who call the place On The River Dining now. The menu is down-home, and it’s still accessible by car or on f oot at 1900 Victory Lane and b y boat at Mile 589.9 on the Ohio Riv er. A number of restaur ants have spawned additional properties at new locations: El Tarasco at 9901 Whipps Mill Road; FireFresh BBQ (all of whose properties have been re-christened from Firehouse BBQ), 12216 Shelbyville Road and 8610 Dixie Highway; Beef O’Brady’s, 3101 S. Second Street; Double Dragon II, 3179 S. Second Street; Quizno’s, 3173 S. Second Street and 10234 Westport Road; Tijuana Flats, 3598 Springhurst Boulevard, and, in Southern Indiana, Joe’s OK Bayou, 4308 Charlestown Road. Finally, Vince Staten’s Old Time Barbeque is moving out the road a piece, leaving its longtime shopping-center storefront in Prospect f or the spot where the old Melrose Inn building once stood, just across the Oldham County line at 13306 W. U.S. Highway 42. In Southern Indiana, the Ranch House burger joint in Highlander Point Shopping Center in Floyds Knobs has changed its name to Juke Box. We assume that the 1950’s nostalgia style will remain.
CLOSINGS A moment of particularly sad silence is due for the abr upt departure of Lentini’s, a half-century Louisville tr adition at 1543 Bardstown Road. There’s talk of y et another effort to resuscitate the v enture, but with a thor ny legal thick et to be negotiated, we’re not holding our breath. The loss of Mambo Cuban Cuisine , 5309 Mitscher Ave. in the South End, deprives the city of 50 percent of its Cuban dining, although we’re told that the management of Djuli, also in the Iroquois Manor shopping center at 5312 S. Third Street, is adding Cuban items to
their Bosnian menu. Speaking of Bosnian, Papillon Grill & Bar , 1616 Grinstead Drive, has put up the shutters for the last time.
Your Solution for Exquisite and Elegant Entertaining
In addition to the previousl y noted Heathers On The River, Maharaja Indian Restaurant, Pizza Magia, Brick Oven Italian Eatery and Wang’s Wok, which have all given way to new eateries on the same premises, the down-home comfort of Blue Peppermill is gone from 1882 Blackiston Mill Road in Clarksville; and the nine-liv es story of Pigasus adds another chapter, this time shutting down after a second shot at its original location at 822 State Street in New Albany. Encore at Actors Theater has gone dark at 316 W. Main Street, though ATL’s management pledges that a new v enture will replace it soon. Rollo Pollo closed in St. Matthews, but its spir it has been reborn as a steam-tab le meat-and-two option within the restaur ant at Prospect Fish Market, 9521A U.S. 42. It was a par ticularly bad quar ter for independent ethnic eater ies: Edna’s Good Stuff, the city’s only Filipino eatery, closed its door s in Jeff ersontown at 9810 Taylorsville Road. Also closing were House Of Dra gon, which had been at 5316 Breckinr idge Lane in St. Matthews since the ’80s; the New Orleansstyle Po-Boy Shoppe, 2286 Bardstown Road, and Asian Pearl buffet, 2060 S. Hurstbourne Parkway (although another Asian Pearl remains in Clarksville). Babylon Arabian closed at 1971 Bro wnsboro Road, El Paraiso is gone at 6201 Preston Highway, and Sarajevo Bosnian is dark at 325 Old Bardstown Road. Two Kingfish properties shut do wn recently at 3401 Bardstown Road and 7483 Dixie Highwa y, and the J’to wn Mr. Gatti’s is gone from 9010 Taylorsville Road. F&D
Spectacular Cuisine from Award Winning Executive Chef
Michael New Dinner Served
Monday thru Thursday 5:00 - 10:00 pm Friday and Saturday 5:00 - 11:00 pm Sunday 5:00 - 9:00 pm Private Dining Room Available Accommodating Parties Up To 60 Guests
Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” Since 1999 Reservations (502) 459-5275 2116 Bardstown Road www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005
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news and notes
Asiatique’s Chef Peng Looi
side dishes [WHAT KIND OF JULEP ISTHAT?]
[JAY IS BACK]
[DERBYTOWN DOES GOTHAM]
When Chef Chr is Howerton of Bourbon’s Bistro was ask ed to put together a dinner f or a Bourbon-Style Cooking School at My Old Kentucky Home State Park during the Kentucky Bourbon Festival in September, the idea of creating a new Bourbon drink with a tropical twist to ser ve with the meal came almost as an after thought. But once he came up with the recipe for his Weller’s Bourbon Island Mango Slush, he liked it so well that he decided to enter it in the Festival’ s Mixed Drink Challenge. Good call! Not only did the dr ink win the contest’s Restaurant Division, it swept the finals, too, bringing the Gr and Champion trophy home to the popular Crescent Hill bistro at 2255 Frankfort Ave. The drink is fr uity and tropical, with the look of a mar tini and at least a passing nod to a mint julep , Bistro General Manager Diana Baker said with a laugh. It’s a sweet, potent blend of fresh mango and ginger root pureed together, then shaken (not stirred) with Weller’s Special Reser ve Bourbon and ginger ale until it’s an icy froth, strained into a sugar-rimmed martini glass and served with a sprig of mint. But why make it yourself? You can enjoy Howerton’s original on the bar list at Bourbon’s Bistro ($8) … and stay for dinner.
Jay’s Cafeteria, an inner-city landmark that has long attr acted a div erse crowd of loyalists from far beyond its immediate neighborhood at 1812 W. Muhammad Ali Boulevard, is back in b usiness; and its suburban-style modern dining room is looking better than ev er after a recent renovation. It’s a quick and happ y turnaround from a troubled situation that had briefly shuttered the popular estab lishment after its f ormer owner, Frank Foster Jr., was unable to satisfy his creditor s and pull the b usiness through bankr uptcy reorganization. Now, however, it’s up and r unning strong in a heck of a demonstr ation of community action: Two West End churches—Parkland Church of God and Mount Hermon Baptist Church—came together to buy the business and reopen it as a community-development project. The churches ha ve formed a f orprofit business called Five Thousand Fed Ministries, evoking the Gospel story of the loaves and the f ishes. It’s a collaboration of t he two churches’ community-development corporations: Parkland’s We Can CDC , directed by the Rev. Darwin Scrubb; and Mount Hermon’s CRANE Community Development Corp., led by the Rev . Stephen Smith. Wendell Stevens, a former McDonald’s franchisee and manager, is to manage the new oper ation. Profits will benefit neighborhood outreach programs such as lo w-income housing, after-school and contin uingeducation assistance, counseling, rehabilitation and jobs creation, the principals said in a news release , adding, “Jay’s represents a tradition in Southern dining in Louisville. Its clientele has always been the most cultur ally diverse of an y restaurant in this area. The change of ownership … and the revitalization of Jay’s is the beginning of an exciting new chapter.”
It’s starting to look as if Louisville’ s top chefs are going to dominate NewYork City’s James Beard House this spr ing in much the same way as Chef Emeril Lagasse dominates the Food Network. Chef Anthony Lamas of Seviche will lead the wa y on Feb . 13, taking his trademark specialty—and more—to Beard House to present a festive meal with a “Latin Lovers” theme. Lamas says he’ll create a menu for the occasion that highlights the “aphrodisiacal qualities” of seviche, the Peruvian specialty that features fresh fish and seafood “cooked” by the action of tart citrus juices. He’ll return home to present the same menu at Seviche in a special $85-a-plate dinner on Feb . 28. The dinner will f eature such goodies as a “Sailor Jerry” Mojito, and an assor tment of his two-bite “seviche spoons” including yellowtail hamachi with yuzu and green apple, bluefin tuna with cocon ut water and ginger, Peruvian corvina with aji amarillo and sweet corn, kumamoto oyster with Grey Goose vodka and tomato-hor seradish broth … and then a five-course dinner and wines. Not long after , five of the city’ s top toques will travel to the Big Apple to put on “A Taste of Louisville” at Beard House on April 3. Showcasing Louisville’s best cooking will be a culinar y tag team of Chefs P eng Looi (Asiatique and August Moon), Anoosh Shariat (Park Place and Bro wnings), Dean Corbett (Equus and Jack’s), Daniel Stage (Le Relais) and Shawn Ward (Jack Fry’s). “We will definitely try to use as m uch local/Kentucky product as possib le,” said Peng Looi, co-organizer of the ev ent with Shariat. “We are tr ying to put Louisville on the national culinary map and this is another act to our mission.” The James Beard House calendar won’t list the ev ents until after the New Year, but if y ou’re thinking of going—and both events would be worth a special tr ip to NYC to enjo y—you’ll want to get in your reservations early. James Beard House is at 167 W. 12th Street in New York, (212) 627-2308, www.jamesbeard.org.
Weller’s Bourbon Island Mango Slush
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[THE BEST GETS BETTER] Havana Rumba has been one of our favorite restaurants since the da y it opened last autumn, and apparently an awful lot of people agree … this in viting spot in St. Matthews (4115 Oechsli Ave.) has been “slammed” with hungry, happy diners just about every day since. The bountiful por tions of w ellprepared Cuban fare at aff ordable prices have much to do with this, of course, but there’s also the attr action of stylish and authentic Cuban décor , from the sunn y colors, bright paintings and poster s to the genuine cigar-box covers laminated on the table tops and those comf ortable leather chairs brought in from Miami. And of course the amiable presence of host and hostess Fernando and Christina Martinez put the icing on the cak e, assuring Havana Rumba’s well-deserved four-star, 92-point rating from Food & Dining Editor Robin Garr’s LouisvilleHotBytes.com. It might seem hard to imagine ho w they could make this fine spot even better, but the Mar tinezes managed to do it, thanks to a major reno vation that has almost doubled the restaur ant’s capacity by opening a second room in the adjacent storefront, a similarly stylish connected space that adds more tab les and a comfortable bar that looks so much like a watering hole in Old Ha vana that y ou almost expect to see P apa Hemingway seated there, sipping a mojito. All this and a new selection of tapas, too. If you haven’t been by for a while, you really need to stop in at Ha vana Rumba and see what’s new. F&D Havana Rumba’s Chef Fernando Martinez
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kitchen essentials cutlery
BY ROBIN GARR
The
Chef ’s Knife What’s the most impor tant tool in an y kitchen? Ask almost an y professional chef or skilled amateur, and you’ll almost always get the same answer: The knife. Follow up with a question about which specif ic knife the chef values most in his batter y of cutting ware , and you’ll find more unanimity: The chef ’s knife—a legacy from the French kitchen, a formidable-looking instrument with a sturdy handle and a long, broad, curved blade—is the one tool that no ser ious chef would want to be without. Kept clean and dry and razor-sharp, a good chef ’s knife is more versatile than a food processor and much easier to clean.Whether you’re cutting up meat or slicing onions or even taking on as tiny a task as mincing fresh garlic, a good chef ’s knife in competent hands makes short work of most kitchen prep chores. But all chef ’s knives are not created equal. A quality, professional knife will sell for around $100 at local kitchensupply stores, and a quick Inter net search indicates that you won’t beat that price by shopping online. It’s possible to get cut-rate knives at discount stores, but the quality difference makes a professional knife worth the toll, in terms of durability, balance and ease of use . I’ve been using m y favorite chef ’s knife, a Chicago Cutlery model, for more than 20 y ears, and it’s still lik e new, takes and holds a k een edge. Unfortunately, corporate changes in recent years have altered the playing field, and Chicago Cutlery is a low-end producer now, not really recommended f or professionals or advanced amateur s. Same goes f or Henckel, a once-respected Ger man
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producer that no w focuses its eff orts on an inexpensiv e line of kniv es that are made at its plant in Brazil and sold at Target and other discounters. For this reason, Campbell’s Gourmet Cottage in Louisville no longer car ries the Henckel’s line, I’m told. Both Campbell’s (127 N. Sherrin Ave.) and Heimerdinger Cutler y Co. (4207 Shelbyville Road) now recommend the Wüsthof brand, a highly rated line of knives made in Solingen, Germany since 1814. “They’re fully forged steel, all one piece, not welded,” said Carl E. Heimerdinger, president of the old Louisville knife company that bear s his family name.“They’re perfectly balanced,” he added, lifting a gleaming blade on his index finger to demonstrate that it balances right at the “bolster,” where the blade meets the tr iple-riveted handle. Wüsthof knives are high-tech tools, he said, made from stain-resistant 0.5 percent carbon steel to hold a longlasting edge; they’re made with laser s, then hand-honed twice bef ore being packaged for sale. Chef ’s knives come in a r ange of sizes from 6 to 12 inches (b lade length, not including the handle), and all w ork well at their appointed tasks.The choice really depends on how the knife feels to you; Heimerdinger says the 8- or 9-inch blades are popular , but those with smaller hands may find a 7-incher more to their liking. In any case, Heimerdinger says, if you’re thinking about in vesting in a quality chef ’s knife that y ou intend to use for many years, you’ll want to get hands on to mak e sure that the knif e
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you buy feels right in your hands and is easy to manage as you slice and chop. The blade should be thin but sturdy, not flexible or flimsy, and that’s where quality pays. A Wüsthof “Classic” 8-inch model is $96.75 at Heimerdinger’s, and chances are it will last long enough f or you to pass it on to your grandchildren. If you are—pardon the expression— a cutting-edge chef, you might also want to take a look at a trendy new Santoku knife.This is the Japanese v ersion of the French chef ’s knife, originally designed for slicing f ish into delicate , paper-thin slices for sushi and sashimi. Thanks to its use by celebrity chefs including FoodTV’s perky Rachael Ra y, the Santoku is increasingl y popular in Western kitchens. Where the French chef ’s knife boasts a curved blade so you can rock it on the cutting board while chopping, the Santoku’s business side is almost flat, for straight-down slicing with surgical precision. Its blade is very thin, the better to hold a dangerousl y razorsharp edge (use this bab y with care , folks), and some models are made with a line of shallo w oval pockets in the steel just above the cutting edge, a technology that’s supposed to keep slices from sticking to the b lade. It’s amazing for fine, controlled slicing and will quickly reduce an onion to a pile of slices so tr anslucently thin that you can read a newspaper through them. A 7-inch Wüsthof Santoku (pictured) lists for $93.60 but can be y ours for $89.99 on sale at Heimerdinger’ s and Campbell’s. F&D
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about food cheese
Page 16
BY MELANIE WOLKOFF | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
s ay
CHEESE everything you need to know about cheese: how it’s made, how to buy it, ho w to enjoy it.
16 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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Cheese plays an indelible par t in all of our lives . Whose favorite childhood food memories don’t include grilled cheese sandwiches and macaroni and c heese? Pizza doesn’t taste the same without mozzarella. Ham and Swiss, cheeseburgers, cheese fries … cheese is the beloved partner in many c lassic food combinations. And who can resist a slice of creamy cheesecake for dessert?
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about food cheese
C
heese owns a magical po wer that can both enhance and subdue flavors, so it mak es food taste good. Just about ev eryone loves cheese, but why does it assert such power over us? What’s behind the cheese mystique? Give your gratitude to milk, the starting point where all cheese begins. Many cheeses are made from co ws’ milk, but goat milk and sheep milk cheeses are popular and tasty too. Cheese can even be made with milk from a b uffalo, a camel or even a hor se. Most milk used f or cheese production is pasteurized, but some of the world’s great cheeses are made from r aw milk. But don’t rush to the store in hope of a fresh French raw-milk cheese: It’s illegal in the U.S. to sell unpasteurized cheeses until they have been aged at least 60 days. At its most basic , fresh unripened cheese is made b y adding to milk a substance such as rennet (a po wdered extract from a calf ’s stomach containing the enzyme rennin) or desir able bacteria to thicken the milk. It is then heated until a thin liquid (whey) separ ates from the milk solids (curd). The whey is dr ained off, perhaps for Little Miss Muffet’s supper, and the remaining curd ma y then be dr ained and pressed into shapes. Most cheeses are ripened or aged.The drained curds are cured by being subjected to heat, bacterial activity or soaking, often with salt, spices or herbs added. The magic occurs while the cheese is aged in a controlled environment. Ripening conditions such as temperature, humidity and time all affect the final flavor. All these elements of curing are deter mined solely by the cheesemaker, who may be guided by tradition or even local laws that govern the requirements for specific types of cheeses.
RIPENING CLASSIFICATIONS Many cheeses are classif ied on the basis of their age . Just as a student becomes more educated b y taking more classes, cheese gains flavor as it spends time developing under the influence of bacterial activity. The more it ages, the more flavor, body and texture it develops.
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BY MELANIE WOLKOFF | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
Fresh, unripened cheese Fresh, unripened cheese is like a kindergarten pupil: It’s pure, natural and untouched. This type of cheese doesn’t undergo any maturing, curing or r ipening after the whey is dr ained from the curds. What results is a v ery soft, moist, mild cheese such as far mer’s cheese, cream cheese or cottage cheese. Soft-ripened cheese Soft-ripened cheese tak es us into elementary school. Neither cooked nor pressed, this simple cheese ripens gradually from the outside r ind in to the center . These cheeses usuall y contain more moisture than semi-soft, ripened varieties. Soft, creamy and spreadab le, soft-ripened cheeses are known as bloomy or floweryrind cheeses because of their light, downy white rind. Brie and Camember t are good examples of soft-ripened cheeses. Semi-soft, ripened cheese Now we’re into middle school. Semisoft, ripened cheese r ipens in the inter ior as well as from the surface, but it still contains more moisture than the f irm, more ripened varieties. Semi-soft, ripened cheeses are pressed, but still maintain a soft texture and smooth flavor. Examples: Gouda and Jack cheese. Firm, ripened varieties Welcome to high school. These cheeses gain a r ipening boost with the aid of bacterial cultures. Lower in moisture than softer varieties, they usually require a longer curing time. They are f irm but not crumbly in texture . Members of this class include Cheddar, Edam and Jarlsberg. Very hard, ripened cheese Ah, we’ve graduated into college. These cheeses are also cured with the aid of bacterial culture and enzymes. The rate of curing is slow—most require at least two years—because of their low moisture and high salt content. These hard, dry cheeses are often ser ved grated, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago and Pecorino.
WHAT’S
IN A
NAME?
Now that we grasp the age classif ication system, let’s move on to some specific types of cheese.As in any family tree, subsets of families within families can get mighty complicated, but here’s a simple guide to some of the more familiar var ieties. Blue-veined As the name suggests, blue-veined cheeses are inoculated with benef icial mold spores (akin to penicillin) that prompt the dev elopment of a fla vorful network of f ine blue or green lines that permeates the cheese dur ing aging. Known for pungent aromas and tangy flavors, blue-veined cheese ma y be crumbly in texture . Just try a classic b lue like French Roquefort (the granddaddy of the genre), American Maytag or P oint Reyes blue, English Stilton, Italian Gorgonzola or Spanish Cabrales, and see for yourself how good mold can taste . Pasta Filata Also called “spun paste,” Italy’s own Pasta Filata is a stretched cheese . It’s made with a special technique where the curd is kneaded and stretched after a hot whey bath. Examples are Mozzarella and Provolone. Goat’s milk cheeses Goat cheeses—often called chèvre, which is simply French for “goat”—come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes and range dramatically in texture from cream y to semi-firm to firm. Its earthy, tart flavor may vary from mild to very pungent indeed. “Goat’s milk cheeses are beautiful, ” says Todd Richards, chef de cuisine at the Oakroom in Louisville’s Seelbach Hotel. “The flavor is tremendous. The texture is smooth and creamy.” “Fresh goat cheese is under rated,” added Anoosh Shariat, the executive chef at Park Place on Main.“People assume they won’t like it. It’s really no diff erent than a good ricotta or cream cheese, except that the flavor from the goat’ s milk adds another dimension. It should taste fresh and creamy. If it has a strong odor, that’s an
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An eclectic selection of cheeses from Lotsa Pasta’s vast cheese department.
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indication it has gone bad since cheese picks up odors as it ages.” Sheep’s milk cheeses Like goat’s milk cheese , sheep cheese tastes different from cow varieties. Flavors range from mild to shar p and, like goat cheese, may be an acquired taste for some. Feta is one of the more familiar sheep’ s milk cheeses. “Sheep’s milk cheese has a distinct flavor,” says Shariat. “Cow’s milk cheese is more subtle. Sheep’s milk cheese tastes stronger, with more depth. As it ages it builds up sweetness.” Swiss-style cheeses Swiss-style cheese is best known for its holey inter ior, which comes about during ripening as gas expands within the curd. It usually comes with a hard r ind, and the flavor is mild, sweet and nutty. Cheddar-style cheeses Cheddar is one of the most popular varieties in the w orld. The archetypal Cheddar cheese is f irm and yellow with a clean, mellow flavor. It develops a shar per, tangy bite as it matures from mild through medium to mellow, sharp and very sharp. Washed-rind cheeses Washed-rind cheeses are r ubbed or washed during the r ipening process with brine, beer, cider, wine, vinegar or just about anything the cheesemak er can dream up, from olive oil to cocoa. This washing gives the cheese a distinct aroma and forms a r ind that k eeps the cheese from drying out as it r ipens, fostering a flavorful mouthfeel rich in texture. Cowgirl Creamery makes a popular American cheese in this style; the Burgundian Epoisses is a classic European example . Double and Triple Crèmes Calorie watchers beware: Double and triple crème cheeses are hea vily enriched with cream, creating a r ich, lush and decadent cheese. Double crèmes contain a fat content of 60 percent,while triple may go up to an alarming but delicious 75 percent
fat content. Some double and triple crèmes are unripened, while others are aged for a few weeks, just long enough to dev elop a thin, edible rind.The popular Boursin brand is a triple-crème. Reduced-fat/Fat-free cheese Reduced-fat and fat-free cheeses are now available, produced either par tially or completely with nonfat milk. Unfortunately, less fat means less flavor, and it also makes the cheese more difficult to melt. If you use this cheese at all, reserve it for cold preparations such as salads and sandwiches. Artisanal cheese This is a hot if not clear ly defined term, evoking the ar tistry exhibited b y a small-farm cheesemaker in contr ast with mass-market cheeses made b y industrial processes. Some fit into the standard categories; others are unique in ventions based on the cheesemak er’s whim. By definition, artisan cheeses are produced in small batches. The best are tasty and unusual, but quality control depends on the individual cheesemaker. “Artisan cheeses are produced in smaller quantities with a lot of care , love and essence,” says Richards. “It’s the difference between caring for 300 cheeses versus 5,000.”
WHERE’S
THE
CHEESE?
You don’t have to search v ery far to find delicious cheeses in Louisville. At Nor th End Café, owner Christopher Seckman’s menu relies heavily on cheese, in dishes such as breakfast tacos, enchiladas, grilled vegetable salad, risotto bowls, eggplant casserole, mushroom lasagna, and not least, on his popular cheese board. Currently the board off ers diners a choice among Ma ytag Blue, two-year old Cheddar and smoked Gouda. “I try to find cheeses with different textures from semisoft to hard,” says Seckman, who serves the cheese with fruit, nuts and dried fruit bread from Blue Dog Bakery. Shariat incorporates cheese in man y recipes as w ell as the cheese cour se at Park Place. He emphasizes artisanal, domestic local and regional cheeses as well as European var ieties. The cheese cour se
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offers eight cheeses, and guests can select three to four portions. “I personally like Camembert, goat cheese or Manchego,” says Shariat. Richards serves several tasting menus at the Oakroom with either three , five, seven or 14 cour ses. The cheese cour se is available on all men us. The cheese course features a variety of soft, medium and hard cheeses, with an emphasis on soft to medium var ieties. “The firmer cheeses tend to taste strong to some diners,” he says. The Oakroom’s cheese progr am is selected to complement the restaur ant’s imposing wine cellar . “Sometimes we’ll serve a cheese based on a wine the sommelier brings in, or it’s the other wa y around where w e’ll find a wine f or a certain type of cheese.” What does Richards look f or in a cheese? “In the beginning it’ s taste. What does it taste lik e? Does it liv e up to its name? If it sa ys ‘Camembert’ but doesn’t taste like it, we would not serve it.We look for smaller and local producers. Price is the last thing we look for.You get what you pay for. We don’t look f or quantity. If there’s only three ounces a vailable of a cer tain cheese and w e know it’s an excellent cheese, that’s what we’ll take.” At Le Relais, owner Anthony Dike said, “We roll out the little car t with an assortment of six to seven cheeses in small portions, about two to three bites per cheese. Three out of f ive guests order cheese. It became very popular when w e started offering the cheese cour se on our prix fixe menu.” Dike works with Chef Daniel Stage to come up with a cheese-car t selection that includes hard, soft, goat and co w cheeses and a b lue cheese. “That gets y ou covered,” Dike said. A few staples include Fourme d'Ambert from the Auvergne in France, which Dike describes as a creamy blue cheese with fla vor sharper than a Gorgonzola; and Epoisses de Bour gogne from France, a raw-milk cheese that ma y be legally imported into the U .S. after 60 days’ aging. “It’s a very strong cheese on the nose, but on the palate it has a strong, nutty flavor,” says Dike. “The diners love it. It’s a soft cheese you can eat with a spoon.” John Hale, co-owner of Lotsa P asta with his wif e Vicki Hale, sells more than 100 different international cheeses plus
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Constant Bliss— an artisanal cheese from Jasper Hill Dairy available at Gemelli Wine & Spirits.
Fleur Verte goat cheese and a selection of Bluegrass Baking Company breads available at the Liquor Barn.
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about food cheese domestic artisan varieties. “We’re a fullservice cheese shop,” he said, adding that new cheeses ar rive weekly. Lotsa Pasta buys most of its cheeses in the full-form box or wheel, and staff cut smaller portions for sale daily. Cheese accounts f or at least 15 percent of his shop’ s business, Hale said. “We look for cheese that stands out, has a different taste and is reasonably priced,” typically in the retail r ange of $15 to $20 a pound. Best-sellers include Spanish and English cheeses, French Brie and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Evie Clare, who owns Gemelli Wine & Spirits with her husband Dan Bur ke, sells wine and cheese with a f ocus on small artisanal producers. “We sell w ell-made cheese that’s not mass-produced, ” she says. Domestic cheeses such as Red Hawk from Cowgirl Creamery (California) and Nancy’s Camember t from the Old Chatham Cheese Company (New York State) sell well. The Liquor Bar ns in Louisville and Lexington offer a selection of more than 300 cheeses. “We try to off er something for everyone,” said Denice Bro wn, the
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BY MELANIE WOLKOFF | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
company’s food buyer/manager. “We have standards such as Gouda and Ha varti and offer more specialty items such as fresh Mascarpone and Mozzarella, and Ledel de Cleron, a French dessert cheese. It’s a softripened cheese you can eat with a spoon. Brie de Meaux is as close as you can get to buying a piece of authentic Brie in France.”
TO MARKET WE GO You understand aging and cur ing and how it aff ects cheese flavor and classifications. Now it’s time to b uy some cheese. But, you say, you still don’t kno w what you like? With cheese, it’s entirely subjective. Cheese purchasing shouldn’t be intimidating. It’s actually fun. For the average consumer, says Dike at Le Relais, the secret is only partly about finding a store that sells good cheese; it’s about finding a store that has a good cheese guy, someone who’s eager to encourage you to tr y a bite . “Always ask for a taste,” Lotsa Pasta’s Hale agreed. Other tips: Check the label f or the cheese’s name, origin and type of milk.
Make sure it looks fresh. Remember that fresh-cut cheese tastes better than cheese that’s been pre-cut and wrapped in plastic. “Look at the cheese color , always taste it and look for consistency,” Shariat advised. Richards suggests b uying small portions that y ou can use up in shor t order. “It takes care to store cheese. If you buy a lar ge quantity y ou miss out on a bounty of cheeses. ” His go-to cheese is Cheddar. “It’s a v ery versatile yet refined cheese. It holds its flavor well and stands on its own. After a rob ust steak or v enison dish a sharp piece of Cheddar is great. The flavor will still per meate in y our mouth unlike a lighter cheese.” Here’s another consider ation: Every cheese has a season. Just as fr uits and vegetables peak dur ing certain times of year, seasonality plays a role in cheeses,too. Simply put, cows consume different foods at different times of year, and what they eat directly affects the flavor of their milk. “Understand what region the cheese comes from. This will help you understand what the animal eats,” Richards said.“What the weather in Wisconsin is like in December is obviously different than in the
Cheese course from Le Relais. (back row from left) Fourme d'Ambert, Le Chèvre Noie, P’tit Basque, Comte; (front row from left) Le Lingot, Camembert, Pont l' Evêque, Epoisses.
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Cheese course from The Oak Room that includes goat cheddar crèpes, Camembert, Explorateur, Hooligan and Goredawnzola cheeses accompanied with grapes, dates, strawberries and pear butter.
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about food cheese summer. This changes what a co w eats. In the summer and spr ing the cows are out to pasture and eat fresh grass and herbs. In the winter they eat ha y and f eed. This all affects cheese flavor. … We’re more likely to serve cheese from California during the winter than from Wisconsin.”
PREPARING
THE
CHEESE COURSE
Congratulations. You’ve made y our cheese selection. Now it’s time to celebrate, and the perf ect way to demonstrate your new-found cheese knowledge is b y preparing a cheese course. Clare recommends ser ving a variety of cheeses such as co w’s milk, goat’s milk and sheep’ s milk of diff erent ages. “Eat the mildest cheeses f irst,” she recommended. “If you star t eating the stinky stuff it will r uin your taste buds.”
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BY MELANIE WOLKOFF | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
“You don’t want to desensitiz e or overpower your palate,” added Shariat, who recommends bites of bread betw een cheeses to cleanse your palate. Except for soft, unripened cheeses such as cottage cheese or cream cheese , serve cheese at room temper ature. Soft and semi-soft cheeses should not be k ept at room temper ature longer than tw o hours, or they’ll get too soft and r unny. While cheese can be eaten alone in all its decadence, many accompaniments are worth a tr y. Clare toasts waln uts and tosses them with wildflo wer honey to go with soft-ripened, runny cheeses. “It’s heaven,” she said. She also recommends serving cheese with fig preserves. Shariat also prefers simple accompaniments such as toasted walnuts. “When eating a sharper cheese a dr izzle of honey is good, especially on a hard cheese such as
Parmigiano-Reggiano. I toss a bit of oliv e oil and fresh herbs together with shar p Cheddar,” he said. “A French baguette is cheese’s best friend,” said Dike. “In America we do things more complicated. But cheese doesn’t need any distractions. It’s a course by itself.” “Fresh fruit and olives are an excellent choice,” added Brown. Like Dike, she prefers French cr usty bread. “The bread brings out the fla vor of the cheese more than a cr acker, which has a texture and flavor that tends to be more potent and overpowers the cheese,” she said. No one will argue that another great marriage is wine and cheese. “Wine and cheese are great fr iends,” said Clare. “Historically you would drink a wine made in the same region the cheese is found.”
Le Relais’s Chef Daniel Stage prepares a filet of beef and Fourme d'Ambert encroûte with roasted garlic Yukon gold potato in a veal stock reduction.
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COOKING
WITH
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CHEESE
Bring on the cheese and tur n up the heat. Cheese’s versatility makes it a natural in cooking. Seckman, at North End Café, loves to pair beef tender loin with b lue cheese, calling this a classic combination. “For melting cheese, Swiss or Cheddar w orks best on a b urger. I enjoy placing Gr uyere and Provolone in omelets. Nice shaved Parmesan works well on salads with shellfish and on scallops.” “Parmesan and sharp Cheddars don’t melt as w ell,” in Hale’s opinion. “Some cheeses melt better sliced or shredded. ” Shariat lists Gr uyere and aged Mozzarella as good melting cheeses. If you’re cooking with ricotta, he recommends b lending it with one of those easier-melting cheeses. “You have to kno w the different cheese characteristics to be ab le to incorporate it into recipes, ” says Shariat. “Certain cheeses don’t bak e well. I don’t care for cooked feta. I use cer tain cheese to stuff and certain to finish with, like a cream cheese.” “At a certain temperature oil starts to separate from the whey. The longer an item bakes, say 45 minutes or more, the firmer a cheese the dish needs,” says Richards, who recommends cooking with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Cheddar, mozzarella and goat cheese . Avoid cooking already soft cheeses such as Fontina or Camember t. “Usually you don’t want to cook cheeses that have soft rinds,” he said. Cheese is best cooked low and slow. Add cheese as a topping dur ing the last 5 to 10 minutes of cooking.
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want to keep the rind on the cheese until you’re ready to go,” Shariat said. The experts also war n against stor ing cheese close to other strong-smelling foods, as the cheese may absorb other aromas. The U.S. Department of Agriculture says it’s okay to store soft, unripened cottage cheese for 10 to 30 da ys, opened cream cheese or the similar Neufchatel for about two weeks, but opened ricotta for only five days. Unopened ripened or cured cheese such as Cheddar, Edam, Gouda, Swiss or brick may last as long as three to six months, but once you’ve opened it, plan to consume it within three to f our weeks. Sliced cheese has the shor test lifespan, only about two weeks.
winston’s
Don’t be afr aid of mold on harder cheeses: Just cut it a way. Mold on fresh or soft-ripened cheese signals it’s time to toss it, though. Can you eat the r ind? It depends. “On hard-rind cheeses the r ind is not edible,” says Hale. (And we would note that some cheeses, like Gouda, are shipped in an inedible wax shell—that’s not rind.) But, Hale assures us, “On softripened cheeses such as Camember t or Brie, yes, you can eat it.” Although you will occasionall y hear advice that differs, most experts advise against storing cheese in the freez er, as freezing will cause the texture to deteriorate. F&D
restaurant
IT UP
So you bought the cheese . You threw the party. You even cooked with cheese . Now you have leftovers. First warning: Do not store it in plastic wr ap. “It’s better with wax paper,” says Clare. “Cheese is a living organic thing. Plastic cuts off the natur al ripening that happens.” Hale recommends using new wr ap every time you open your stored cheese; Seckman suggests storing in Tupperware. Whatever you do, all the exper ts agree, don’t remove the wax or r ind. “You
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BY ROBIN GARR
Wine
&Cheese
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
Stinky Epoisses cheese from Burgundy meets its wine match in Domaine Arlaud 2003 “Roncevie” Bourgogne.
If you don’t think wine and cheese are tw o of the most compatible foods on Earth, consider this:Who ever heard of a wineand-potato-chip or wine-and-chocolate tasting? Wine and cheese are both natural products of fermentation, and they’re both among the most ancient processed foods that our earliest ancestors invented as soon as they got past the point of cho wing down on seeds, nuts and haunch of mammoth roasted on a stick. It’s no wonder that their flavors just naturally go together: The snappy, fresh-fruit acidity of wine offers a cleansing foil to the creamy richness of cheese , while cheese’s tangy dair y character seems to bring out wine’s natural fruit. Put them together in your mouth, and your taste buds do an Emeril-style “Bam!” As anyone who’s ever wrestled with a restaur ant wine list knows, though, there is a vir tual book of rules advising the budding connoisseur about matching f oods with wines that complement them, in pursuit of the best flavor match. It starts with “red wine with red meat, white wine with white meat,” and goes uphill from there in a package of conventional wisdom that includes all sor ts of caveats, asterisks and exceptions. This may seem daunting enough to make you want to reach for a beer instead, but it all comes down to this:Wine is made to go with food, and most wine tastes good with most f ood, no matter what you choose. Food-and-wine matching isn’t reall y so m uch about averting culinary disaster as it is about finding the rare pairings that really sing; and it’s hard to f ind a dinner-table ballad that warb les a prettier melody than wine and cheese . Frankly, we could end this ser mon right here, go get some wine and some cheese, and enjoy. But since half the fun of wine-as-hob by is looking for the details that kick things up another notch (to stay on the Emeril theme), let’s list a f ew simple wine-and-f ood-matching principles that lead us to specif ic wine and cheese pair ings. Master these combos and grasp the simple principles that make them work, and you’ll be well on your way to earning your connoisseur’s diploma. Match likes with likes. Just as chicken and fish generally go with white wine while w e reserve red wines f or beef and lamb , milder cheeses generally go w ell with lighter wines, stronger-flavored cheeses with bold wines. Under this pr inciple, you would want to serve a cr isp, light white wine (the Vincent Dureuil-Janthial 2003 Bourgogne Aligote at Gemelli Wine & Spir its, for example) with a ricotta or farmer cheese or a milder goat cheese like the tasty little “logs” from Indiana’s Capriole Farms, while you can bring out your big reds to go with a shar p Cheddar or tangy Edam. Look for pleasing contrasts. A soft-ripened cheese lik e Camembert or Br ie is seductiv e and cream y because it’ s low in
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natural acidity. Try it with a tar t, high-acid wine like a Sauvignon Blanc-based white like a Sancer re from Fr ance’s Loire Valley, and you’ll bring it back into balance. A very sharp cheese lik e a chunk of P armigianoReggiano carved right off the wheel, on the other hand, will blossom in flavor when it’s served with a light, fruity red wine such as a Valpolicella (or even a hear ty Amarone) from Italy’s Veneto region. Go for the gusto . Some of the strongest wine and cheese fla vors work because they stand up to each other lik e evenly matched hea vyweights in a bo xing championship. Consider the French r awmilk cheese Epoisses (“Eh-pwass”) which is so famously stinky that onl y aficionadoes are willing to push past that earthy aroma to get to the r ich, silken creamy cheese within. Introduce it to a similarly earthy red Burgundy (Pinot Noir), and you’ll master this challenging match like a champ. One good option: Domaine Arlaud 2003 “Roncevie” Bourgogne, which you’ll also find at Gemelli. Similarly, strong blue cheeses like Roquefort, Stilton, Gorgonzola or Point Reyes Blue will overwhelm wimpy wines, but stand up beautifull y to the power of a sw eet, for tified Por t or a syrupy-sweet Sauternes. (Watch out f or dry red wine with b lue cheese though; some people love this pairing, but for many tasters it tr iggers a weird, twangy acidic response that’s not good eats.) Keep neighbors together. It’s certainly not necessary to limit y ourself to Italian wine with Italian cheese , French with French and so on, but it’s worth exploring natural pairings of Old Countr y wines and cheeses that grew up together . Spanish Manchego and red wines from Rioja,French Montrachet cheese with Chardonnay-based White Burgundy, and French Muenster (the real, knock-you-back model from Alsace, not the mild American imitation) with Alsatian Gewurztraminer will star t you down this tasty road. The next time you have an invitation to a wine-and-cheese tasting, look on it as a learning experience. Take advantage of the opportunity to taste several different wines, and sample each with a var iety of cheeses, taking note how the different flavors work together as you go. It’s educational, and you get to dr ink wine and eat cheese . There’s nothing the matter with that! F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 27
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BY JERRY SLATER
cold weather
I
f Louisville isn’t quite wintry enough for such northerly pleasures as ski lodges or tapping maple trees f or sugar, there is still something to be said f or a front-porch visit on a crisp autumn day or a cozy fireside gathering that star ts to glo w when you greet your guests with hot libations. There’s much to be said for getting war m with heated, spiked beverages. My favorite cold w eather cocktails tend to be simple yet classic combinations that balance the f iery warmth of liquor with the more soothing heat of coffee, tea or cider and the like. Indeed, I discovered two of m y favorites in a most traditional setting— Christmas Eve festivities— when a college buddy’s Irish mother invited several of his close fr iends over for a few specialties. In addition to the v enerable pound cake, these included hot toddies and Irish coffee. Taking the last first, Irish coffee is a noble blend of strong coffee with whiskey, sugar and whipped cream.This sounds deceptively simple, but be aware: Though there are only four ingredients, quality and procedure should be f ollowed without deviation. First, good strong coffee, preferably dark roast, must be fresh ground and brewed on the spot. While the coffee is brewing, hand-whip a pint of fresh, heavy cream, gently whipping in two tablespoons of sugar just as the cream starts to form “soft peaks.” Finally, to complete the assemblage, place a 11/2-ounce shot of Irish whiskey (choose Jameson if y ou wish to pa y homage to P atty’s Catholic tradition from Eire) and a teaspoon of sugar in a tr aditional glass mug, stirring until the sugar star ts to dissolv e. Add the coff ee,
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leaving a half-inch of space at the top , and stir again. Finally, carefully float the fresh whipped cream on top, dolloping it in gentl y with two spoons. If you’re wondering why I left out the green crème de menthe, you will have to repeat the course after class, and yes, there will be paddling. Patty’s hot toddy involved a similar process, employing the same whiskey plus honey , justbelow-boiling hot water and a slice of lemon spiked with a f ew whole clo ves. Where the Ir ish coffee can simultaneously put a motor in your mouth and a bend in your knee, this toddy is advertised as a sure cure for a fever and the common cold upon ear ly detection. Both are soul-satisfying when friends are gathered on a cold night and conversation is flowing freely. This is the wa y traditions get star ted. Here are two other traditional recipes from very different sources: One comes from a 1949 copy of Out of K entucky Kitchens by Marion Flexner; the other is in the 2002 Playboy Bartender’s Guide by Thomas Mario (complete with LeRoy Neiman illustrations). Ms. Flexner’s “Show Me a Land” Toddy, in a chapter of her book called “Sippages,” is attributed to an anonymous chef at the Brown Hotel, who created the drink to celebrate a similarly named historical novel about Kentucky. This toddy is a bit more potent than P atty’s, with two sugar cubes dissolved in only 1 ounce of near boiling water, then poured into an old-fashioned glass with 11/2 ounces of Bourbon and mint, cherry or green maraschino.Two things struck me about this halfcentury-old recipe. First, it offered a summer v ersion with the
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ingredients poured o ver crushed ice rather than being heated, and a mint sprig added.This comes pretty close to being an offbeat mint julep with a green cherry.The winter-version recipe also calls f or heating the liquor in the bottle, which sounds a bit like a home recipe for a Molotov cocktail. According to Flexner , the Brown also created a “Show Me a Land” sandwich to go with the dr ink, but with no recipe w e are left to wonder. The Playboy Bartender’s Guide offers an “official” recipe for Café Diable, a drink that I learned to make on the job. During my tenure at The Oakroom, we would wheel a car t around the dining room to make this drink at tableside, flaming Grand Marnier and cognac o ver long str ands of clove-spiked orange peel so the blue flame would drip into a warm bowl of sugarsweet coffee. Served in demitasse cups from a teapot, Café Diable has a devilish way of relaxing the backbone. I have been convinced to make this at the new digs of Park Place on Main, but I will also include the Playboy version here. If you make this at home, take care to do it for friends, as it makes enough for eight. Cheers!
Café Diable 21/2 cups extra-strong fresh black coffee 2 cinnamon sticks, broken in half 8 whole allspice berries 4 whole cardamom seeds, removed from shell Grated rind of 1/2 orange 5 ounces Cognac 3 ounces Grand Marnier 2 ounces Sambuca 2 tablespoons sugar In a deep chafing dish or café brulot set (a traditional silver set of bowl, tray and ladle designed for flaming drinks), simmer 1/2 cup of the coff ee with the cinnamon sticks, allspice, cardamom seeds and or ange rind for 2 or 3 min utes to release the spice flavors, stirring constantly. Add the Cognac, Grand Marnier and Samb uca. When the liquors are hot light the vapors with a wooden match. Stir the drink with a longhandled spoon until the b lue flames subside, then add the rest of the coff ee and the sugar . Ladle or spoon the Café Diablo into demitasse cups. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 29
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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR
A man walks into a bar ... Stop me if y ou’ve heard this one before … A man walks into a bar and asks for a beer. The bartender says, “Which beer? We have 30 on tap, and a couple of hundred bottles.” “I’m not sure,” the gent replies. “Why don’t you recommend one.” The bartender looks at him and says … and says …
W
hat does he say? Bartender or beer lover, how do y ou go about recommending a beer? Granted, in most cases the con versation would never get to the recommendation stage, because most beer drinkers sidestep uncertainty by falling back on default settings: “Give me a Bud Light, ” “I’ll take that one with the cool label,” or in extreme situations, “Give me what the guy on the floor is having.” But when a suggestion is called f or, the bar tender, server or even the guy on the next bar stool faces a real challenge , one that can make or break future beerdrinking relationships. It’s not enough to suggest toda y’s special, or the br and that might ear n the employee a nifty polo shir t if enough pints are sold. Fur thermore, the beer that y ou personally prefer isn’t necessarily the r ight beer to off er a customer who is only star ting to find the courage to explore new fermented territories. To point the customer in a direction that will reward the risk, one must peek inside the human psyche, poke around the dusty file cabinets and seek clues in the gloaming, hoping to uncover clues to providing a beer that mak es the game wor th the flame. 30 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
1
YOU
HAVE TO KNOW THE RULES
BEFORE YOU CAN BREAK THEM.
Obviously, the bartender and ser ver must know the language of beer style and character. But it isn’t necessar y to speak it fluently; in fact, too much detail ma y do more harm than good when y ou’re assisting beginners. It’s quite enough to kno w and be able to help the consumer gr asp just three key factors: malt gives sweetness and hops impar t bitterness … ales boast fruity flavors while lagers show clean malt character … and a beer’ s color doesn’t indicate its strength. Anecdotes can be useful in explaining why beer styles are so diff erent. India Pale Ale (IPA) was dev eloped as a strong, highly hopped ale that w ould survive the challenge of long-distance tr ansportation on shipboard to the tropics. Those wacky flavors in Belgian lambic beers came about because the brewmaster s opened the windows and let funky wild yeasts drift in to do the work. And Bavaria gave us lager by aging beer in the depths of ca ves, learning how cool underground temperatures fostered this uniquely clean, crisp style. American microbrewers have borrowed from all these traditions, then created new ones all our own.
The best way to gain insight into beer taste and brewing er udition is the same procedure that’s traditionally advised f or getting to Carnegie Hall: practice, practice, practice. Practice drinking beer and practice thinking beer . If that sounds lik e fun to you, it is—and just think how much fun it’s going to be when your knowledge leads to a satisf ied patron who’ll remain yours forever.
2
ASK: “DO YOU
LIKE BEER?”
This is a far more diff icult question to answer than it ma y seem on the surface. Exactly how do w e come to kno w what we like? You’d be sur prised how often the inquiring customer freel y divulges that he generally dislikes the taste of beer.This is a crucial juncture in the fact-gathering process, because in spite of previous exper ience, the customer hasn’t abandoned the quest for some beer that will taste good. So, proceed immediately to the obvious follow-up question …
3
“WHICH
BEERS HAVE YOU
TASTED?”
The usual response is “All of them— Coors, Bud, Miller, Pabst, Foster’s, etc.”
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This is the best possible place to begin. If the customer’s “all” means all of the beers within the narrow flavor boundaries of only the mass-market style, the way is clear to recommend a beer as utter ly removed from this pale , fizzy liquid as can be imagined—German-style wheat ale with its clove and banana notes, say; or a hopp y, citrusy American Pale Ale, or a strong, sweet, elegant Belgian specialty. Chances are that they’ll like almost any brew that reminds them least of what has always been pawned off on them as “beer.” GERMAN-STYLE WHEATS: Franziskaner, Erdinger, Weihenstephaner AMERICAN-STYLE PALE ALE: BBC APA, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Bell’s Two Hearted BELGIAN SPECIALTIES: Gulden Draak, Chimay,Triple Karmeliet
4
IF YOU DO LIKE THE TASTE OF BEER, THEN WHICH ONES HAVE YOU TRIED?
It’s more difficult if the customer lik es beer very much, and specifically, actually enjoys watery, yellow mass-market beer. The ongoing exper iment in social engineering that is kno wn as brand loyalty has claimed man y a victim, and for these unfortunates, the range of curative options is narrowed considerably. The safest approach is to tr y something golden and not too far remo ved. Perhaps a mass-market international ethnic lager from Japan, South Africa, or Peru— something that can be identified with a flag or recollections of an insurrection covered briefly on CNN, or that can be “matched” with food from its countr y of origin. To express a pref erence for the “flavor” of flavorless beer usually reveals a fear of bitterness and complexity, so golden ales often will be successful. German Kolsch, if available, may suffice; it is fermented at a cool temperature, rendering those fr uity ale esters quite subtle and smoothing the palate to near-lager beer uniformity. The same goes f or “lawnmower” ales made by microbreweries, especially American-style wheat beers, which are fermented with standard ale y east (unlike the much more tangy Ger man wheat
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styles), aren’t spiced like Belgians, and often show only the most “delicate” flavor. AMERICAN WHEAT: Anchor Wheat, Bell’s Oberon GOLDEN LAGERS: Czechvar (Czech Republic), Samuel Smith Lager (U.K.) GERMAN-STYLE KOLSCH: Reissdorf, Gaffel (both from Cologne)
5
DON’T
BE AFRAID OF THE DARK.
Beers of color simply terrify the majority of beer dr inkers, many of whom equate any dark liquid with Guinness—the Irish nectar that typif ies roasty, black and dry stout. Some members of the stout family are sweet (oatmeal stout) and others strong (imperial stout). At times, in complete exasper ation, I’ve resor ted to requesting that the customer’s eyes be shut while sipping a draft sample, and have even considered keeping a blindfold behind the bar in case of need. Take note: The color of a beer bear s no consistent relationship with thickness, bitterness, alcohol content or hango ver probability. To avoid too-frequent use of the blindfold though (and the customer’s difficulty in f inding the restroom or watching the ballgame), start the novice’s ascent with amber and brown beers: Smooth Oktoberfest lagers, American Amber Ales with perhaps a tr ace of hop bite, and Irish-style Reds. OKTOBERFESTS: Ayinger, Hacker-Pschorr, Paulaner, Spaten Oktoberfest. (Really, almost any Oktoberfest will suffice; look also f or beers marked “Märzen,” which essentially means the same thing.) AMBERS: BBC Altbier (in the German style), Bass Pale Ale (U.K.), Bell’s Amber, Newcastle Brown (U.K.), Smithwick’s Irish Red (Eire) Be knowledgeable, be gentle, and be prepared to off er encouragement. And always remember that y ou’re not just selling a beer—y ou’re inviting a customer into a different dimension. F&D
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502-568-2224 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 31
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BY DAVID LANGE
Warming up to
A
s winter slither s our wa y again, many of us tur n to hot dr inks to warm ourselves against the Arctic blasts. While coffee is the choice for many, it’s worth remembering that tea is the second most consumed bev erage in the world. What’s more, there’s a bold and delicious variety in the aroma, taste and benefits of all the teas available. Green teas, Black teas and Oolong teas are distinctl y different, but they all grow on the same plant, Camellia sinensis. Regional growing conditions and variations in handling, plucking and processing determine whether the processed tea leaves will be labeled as green, black or Oolong. Also, much like wine gr apes, Camellia sinensis comes in a n umber of “varietal” alternatives, each with its own character. Many of the finest teas are still pick ed by hand (“plucked,” in tea-expert jargon), a job usually done b y women who har vest with extremely sharp blades attached to their finger tips. Harvesting tea takes a great deal of skill and exper ience, as pluckers must take care to cut onl y the f irst two leaves and a bud from the uppermost tip of each stem in order to ensure the finest tea. Where did tea originate? According to one legend, an ancient monk was boiling water in his garden when a leaf from a Camellia sinensis bush fell into his k ettle. Tasting this infusion, the monk concluded that this tonic had great medicinal powers, and from this simple accident came tea. Depending on the climate , tea may be harvested from an individual plant as many as seven times per y ear. Each harvest is called a “flush,” and each flush is said to have its own character. Most tea comes from China, India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon teas), and Japan. In China and Japan, green tea is the most consumed, while black tea is most popular in India and Sri Lanka. Black, Green, Oolong or Herbal: What are the differences? Let’s take a look at the different types of tea.
Black Tea To produce b lack tea, freshly picked tea leaves are slightl y bruised (swatted, slightly damaged or cracked), exposing the 32 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
tea
natural oils in the lea ves to air so they oxidize to a bro wn color. The leaves are then fired in a large wok to stop oxidation, which seals in the remaining essential oils, preserving flavor. Popular black teas include Ceylon Kenilworth Estate, Darjeeling, China Black, and the smoky Lapsong Souchong. Several varieties of b lack tea ma y be b lended to produce exotic potions such as English Breakfast, Irish Breakfast and Russian Imperial. Earl Grey is a black tea flavored with oil of bergamot, a type of citrus fruit. To steep b lack teas: Use the hottest water available—water from a coffee holding carafe is not hot enough. A rolling boil or equivalent is preferred. Measure out about one scant teaspoon of tea per 5ounce cup. Pour the hot water o ver the leaves and let them steep f or 3 to 5 minutes (experiment with timing to discover what’s best f or you). Then pour the tea off the leaves, or remove the leaves by using a tea str ainer.
Green Tea Green tea lea ves are carefull y protected in order to a void bruising and the resulting o xidation. These leaves are allowed to o xidize only for the shor t period between plucking and f iring. This allows the tea lea ves to k eep their green color.The liquor of green tea leaves ranges
from a pale, almost clear color, to yellow, to a pale or even bright green. Exotic green teas include Dr agon Well, Emerald Tips, Gunpowder, and Sencha. To steep green teas: Follow the same procedure as for black tea, but the water should be cooler (180-190 degrees) and steeping time slightly less (2-4 minutes).
Oolong Tea Neither fully oxidized nor k ept fully green, these teas are deliber ately partially bruised and partially oxidized, thus forming a bridge between Black and Green Tea. Producing Oolong tea is a complicated and labor-intensive process that requires a lot of supervision and handw ork. These teas are usually pricey and often delicious. They include such delights as Green Dr agon Yellow Jade and Formosa. To steep Oolong tea, follow the same directions as black tea.
Herbal Blends Herbal tea is not really tea at all but an infusion of herbs, also known as a tisane. Because they contain no tea lea ves, herbal blends are caffeine-free. Body and natur al sweetness are the hallmar ks of herbal blends, which can steep a long time without becoming bitter, unlike tea leaves that can cause bitter ness with o ver brewing. There are many floral and spicebased herbal teas.
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Steeping herbal teas: Use the hottest water available (at a rolling boil). Pour over the leaves and let the herbs steep to taste . Many prefer herbals very strong and often leave the herbs in the liquor while drinking.
White Tea One of the ultimate pleasures f or tea drinkers is a cup of white tea. White tea originated in China about 1100 A.D., becoming popular under Song Dynasty ruler Hui Zhong, who proclaimed white tea “the culmination of all that is elegant.” For nearly 1,000 y ears these w onderful teas remained in obscurity inside China, but now they are loved by tea lovers worldwide for their subtly exquisite range of flavor—from delicately sweet to nutty green. Producing the best white tea is extremely labor-intensive. Only a few specially selected tea plants of certain varieties are chosen b y the Tea Master. The delicate, fleshy, unblemished buds and new top lea ves are pick ed shortly after the morning dew has lifted and only at certain times of the year. The buds are then carefully handled and dr ied to ensure perfect tea quality and freshness. Pai Mu Tan and White Monkey Paw are tw o of the best examples. Now that y ou’ve settled on a tea to experiment with, how do y ou brew the perfect cup? Prepar ation can be quick, but it must be conscientious. Here are a f ew simple tips to help you enjoy a perfect cup every time: 1. Use good filtered or spring water. 2. Pre-warm the vessel you’ll use for steeping. (I prefer a single cup.) 3. Use enough tea (about one rounded teaspoon per 5-6 ounce cup). 4. Have a cover ready and cover the vessel as soon as you pour in the heated water. 5. Time your steeping carefully. 6. Remove the cover as soon as the steeping time is up—and enjoy the aroma as it filters into the air. 7. Pour the liquor off the leaves immediately. 8. Sip and sniff and enjoy. Please don’t get the idea that this is the only way to achieve the perfect cup. There are many ways to steep great tea. This is one foolproof way and a guideline; please feel free to exper iment with other methods on your own. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 33
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people and places profiles
BY DAVID DOMINE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
[ i n t r o d u c t i o n s ]
The restaurant industry can be a fast-moving business. Chefs come, chefs go, and new eateries appear on the hor izon as other s disappear. Trying to k eep up with who’s where, doing what, can be like drawing a bead on a moving target. For this ser ies of local-chef prof iles, writer David Domine catches up with f ive hot chefs who’ve been involved in recent moves and changes at three relatively new local restaurants. At Volare, Domine interviews Chef Dallas McGarity, who opened the popular Frankfort Avenue Italian spot a y ear or so back, and his sous chef Joshua Moore , who left Café Emilie to join McGarity there after Volare’s Chicago-based founder departed and the restaurant became entirely locally owned. Just down the street from Volare at Gumbo A Go-Go, we meet chef-owners Billy Fox and Jason Cardwell, who returned to Louisville this summer after an eightyear hiatus, and are pleasing happy crowds with their hearty $5-a-dish Cajun plates. And amid Old Louisville’ s Victorian mansions, Chef Tony Efstratiadis, who left Napa River Grill this past summer to enjo y creative freedom at his o wn spot, 316 Ormsby, is flying solo now that his erstwhile partner, Kevin Thompson, has amicably parted ways to open Firehouse Gr ill in suburban Eastwood.
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Chef Tony Efstratiadis
316 ORMSBY 316 W. ORMSBY 637-9899
Early this year, Chef Tony Efstratiadis left a frenetic post as chef of a popular East End eatery for the more relaxed pace of his own restaurant in Old Louisville . Located in the heart of the city’ s memorable historic district near do wntown, the casual-yetupscale 316 Ormsby occupies a handsome Tudor-inspired redbrick building from before World War II, the venue that formerly housed the shor tlived Central Park Café. “Business is fine,” says Efstratiadis,“but we still have to contend with several minor prob lems in the neighborhood. ” For one, he said, service issues at the predecessor estab lishment left a sour taste in the mouths of some local patrons. Moreover, the staid and stately backdrop of Victorian Old Louisville is distinctly different from the neon glitz and glare of DuPont Circle, where he ran the kitchen at Napa River Grill for several years. “The zoning regulations down here are very strict,” he said,“and they only allow certain kinds of signs and a limited n umber of them. This really affects our visibility.” Nonetheless, Efstratiadis plans on mollifying Old Louisville’ s cantankerous palates with the same talent and attention to detail that won him acclaim at Napa Riv er Grill. The décor of 316 Ormsby’s dining room features vintage Louisville street scenes and
charcoal sketches of nearb y St. James Court that cater to local pride, and the eclectic combinations of standard fa vorites and regional ingredients on his bill of fare are k eyed to his gro wing neighborhood clientele. Now, he says, “we hope to attr act restaurant-goers from other par ts of the city.” Efstratiadis, who attended Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island and has cook ed in New York, Boston, San Antonio, Cincinnati and at Louisville’s Lake Forest Country Club, hopes to make the best of his new-f ound culinary freedom as owner and host at 316 Or msby. He says he f ound Napa Riv er Grill’s reper toire a bit restrictive on his creativ e spirit. “Even though I’m a nativ e Californian, they tended to dictate what California cuisine was,” he said. “They also felt that they had to adapt the menu to suit Kentucky tastes, so it’s nice to be someplace where I can take my own ideas and run with them.”
Mandarin pork loin chops in a sweet sesame vinaigrette with jasmine rice, garnished with a Napa cabbage slaw.
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dallas mcgarity & joshua moore
Chefs Dallas McGarity (standing) and Joshua Moore
VOLARE
2300 FRANKFORT AVE. 894-4446 When he used to wash dishes at a local country club in South Carolina, 15-year-old Dallas McGarity never anticipated he’d one day end up in Louisville , Kentucky, much less land a job as ex ecutive chef at one of the trendiest new restaurants in town. “I began my culinary journey when I was a small child in Orangeburg, South Carolina, where my mother and grandmother used to prepare traditional southern dishes,” he said. But his career really took off one night when he was called into action after the grill cook at the countr y club didn’t sho w up f or work. “Before that, I didn’t think that w ork in a kitchen was that m uch fun,” he remembers. “But my comrades in the kitchen called me a natur al, and from then on, I was hooked.” McGarity went to culinar y school at Johnson and Wales University in Char leston and honed his skills in some of Charleston’s best eateries.“I tried to learn everything I could from some of the best chefs in the Southeast, ” he recalls, “And I eventually accepted the position of head chef at a f our-star restaurant with a crazy French owner named Jacques.” The “crazy” Frenchman would be both a father figure and an influential mentor, teaching him many lessons that have ensured his success. McGarity moved to Louisville last y ear after his f iancée, Beatrix, started her residency at University Hospital, and before
Pan roasted Chilean sea bass over ponte nuovo potatoes with toasted pancetta and sautéed baby spinach, topped with sun-dried tomatoes and caper tapenade.
long he found a post at Volare. “I had no idea what a happening place this is,” he said. “The restaurants are great.” McGarity’s Volare sidekick Joshua Moore sa ys his passion f or food and pastr ies began at an ear ly age, too. “My mother would bring me home from preschool and put me in front of the cartoons, and by the time she got back in the room I w ould have gotten up and changed the channel to a cooking sho w.” Moore watched his gr andmothers in the kitchen, studying their every move. “I got my start at age 13, ” he says, “when my mother was working at Vincenzo’s. I started bussing and helping with caterings.” Before long he was helping the pastry chef, and by the end of his junior year in high school, Moore had a job as pastry chef at Wildwood Country Club. After graduation, he started a seven-year stint at Porcini, and later moved to Café Emilie, where he took charge of evolving the St. Matthews eatery from a coffee shop into a full-ser vice restaurant. Now he’s sous chef and pastr y chef at Volare, a contemporary Italian spot that he describes as “an excellent move for me back to my culinary roots.”
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Traditional jambalaya— tender chicken and smoked sausage simmered with colossal onions, green peppers, Cajun spices and long-grain rice.
billy fox & jason cardwell
GUMBO A GO-GO 2109 FRANKFORT AVE. 896-4046
Chefs Billy Fox (standing) and Joshua Cardwell
Billy Fox and Jason Cardwell recently returned to Louisville after an eight-year hiatus, and “things have been hopping” ever since at their new Fr ankfort Avenue eatery, Gumbo A Go-Go. “In the time w e’ve been gone, things have really turned around in Louisville , and the restaur ant scene is more amazing than ev er,” said Cardwell, the marketing and promotional half of the brains behind the Cajun fast-food concept. The duo teamed up dur ing the ’90s, and they soon spread the gumbo gospel to eager audiences in Indianapolis and Columb us. Eventually, said Cardwell, “Since we both have family here … we decided to come back to Louisville . It was a great mo ve, since things are reall y starting to take off.” For Fox, the move back to Louisville also br ings him back to the career that earned him some renown in the 1980s and early ’90s: riding racehorses. Enamored of the sport since childhood visits to his mother’s home in Saratoga, New York, Fox jockeyed around the United States and Asia for years until a r iding accident in Malaysia left him with a brok en back. Although he has no immediate plan to r ide professionally again, he used his down time to recuperate and build strength for a future return to the saddle, meanwhile focusing his energies on a culinar y dream. Gumbo A Go-Go’s quick success is largely due to the enormous portions and cover-all price of $5 for anything on the menu—but taste and culinar y savoir faire factor prominently into the mix as well. Fox, a native of New Orleans, mastered the cuisine of his ancestor s early on, but it wasn’t until he learned the art of cooking “in bulk” that the he and Cardwell came up with the idea of off ering cost-effective Cajun delights to the masses. Reviving old family recipes that take advantage of the secrets of seasoning and spice, Fox has created an unpretentious but filling bill of fare. Bright colors and Mardi Gras memorabilia festoon the unassuming interior where laid-back servers drop off large bowls laden with satisfying portion of New Orleans favorites such as shrimp etouffé and duck and chick en jambalaya. Their popular dr unken chicken over steamed rice, shrimp creole, and chicken and sausage gumbo provide testimony that good down-home cooking and affordable prices are still possible. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 37
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It was a dark night, in a city that knows how to keep its secrets. Can our peripatetic critic find an excellent meal, good service, and perhaps a nice glass of wine?
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
Woked spicy lamb, red capsicum and Maui onion in a sweet potato basket from Asiatique’s Chef Peng Looi.
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instead of a meat-f illed burrito, I’d order a tor ta covered in thick crescents of avocados on a base of refr ied beans. But the fact is that after a night of rock ’n’ roll and hard drinking, the USDA food pyramid is not foremost in my mind. Besides, sometimes late-night dining isn’t about dining at all.It’s about clutching the people we’re with, and making one last desperate attempt to hold onto y esterday and f orestall all the fresh sorrows ready to beset us tomor row. There’s an ur gency about staying in yesterday that, for me at least, calls out for more than counter service. I want to sit down, place an order, and have my food delivered in something other than a paper wr apper. In Louisville, that desire can be met at places lik e Steak and Shake or the Waffle House, a staple along America’s highways. Waffle House claims to ha ve served 495,264,367 waffles since 1955; and the firm’s mathematics wizards ha ve calculated that its hash browns can be ser ved in 3,538,944 diff erent ways. (An independent Internet site makes an equally strong case that the actual number is greater : 28,311,552.) If you want to eat while y ou drink, bars like the Back Door, in the Mid-City Mall, where the crowds are thick, the pool tables are A late-night tradition— Bristol’s green chile wontons.
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
round midnight one sw eltering evening in Jul y, I found myself outside the Aragon Ballroom on the North Side of Chicago.The bristling Latin rock clang from Mexico’s Café Tacuba rang in my ears, and at my beltline a surly growl reminded me that I hadn’t eaten anything but a Chicago-style hot dog for six or seven hours. Hungry at midnight in a great American city, I glanced at m y PDA, dialed a number on my cellphone, and found that I’d have no trouble getting served at Avec, a world-class restaurant owned by Chef Paul Kahan, who also owns the Blackbird Restaurant, and who was named the Best Midw estern Chef by the James Beard House in 2004. After a wild r ide navigated by a h yperkinetic cabbie with attention disorder syndrome, an amazing collection of blues tapes piled high on the front passenger seat, and a penchant f or switching from Little Walter to Elmore James every 30 seconds or so, I found myself at Avec. I was seated at a stainless steel counter in a spare , narrow room utter ly devoid of wall decor ations, listening to tr ance-rock, gazing down at small plates of f ood that made me glad I was alone . These dishes demanded a Zen-lik e focus: small pyramids of shaved asparagus interwoven with a lattice of smoked mozzarella and wafers of red onion, drizzled in a Meyer lemon vinaigrette; chorizo-stuffed medjool dates wr apped in intensely smoky bacon and touched with piquillo-pepper tomato sauce; a pissaladière, charred around the edges, covered with a confit of car amelized onion and f ennel, topped with unctuous white anchovies, Niçoise olives and shreds of sage . That’s what happens when y ou’re peckish after midnight in Chicago. But what about Louisville? Could I duplicate that exper ience (except for the cab r ide, which I knew to be a once-in-a-lif etime flight) back home? Could I f ind an excellent meal, good service, and perhaps a nice glass of wine in the w ee hours in m y own home town? It was a foregone conclusion that I could f ind sustenance of some sort: scrambled eggs, a waffle, or a b urger and fr ies. Louisville has always had a late-night club scene, with many of the bars packing folks in until 4 a.m. In my salad days, I ate plenty of pancakes at four in the morning. A few chain restaur ants offer counter or dr ive-up service well into the night. White Castle comes to mind, of course, for those crave-worthy squares of steamed beef; and Krispy Kreme, for a last cup of coffee and a sugar buzz that will last longer than your hangover. Taco Bell and Wendy’s offer drive-up service well into the night. And then there’s La Bamba, home of the “burrito as big as your head,” a small chain of Mexican restaur ants that has a Louisville location on Bardstown Road.Yes, the tacos and burritos can be grease-laden. Thanks for the war ning: if I didn’t want the grease, I wouldn’t order a meal compr ised largely of ground beef or pork sausage; nor would I frequent a place that touts the extreme size of its burritos (yes, I do have a big head, and at 3 a.m., those fellows behind the counter at La Bamba ha ve no troub le turning out a size 7 3/4 burrito). If I were looking for a prudent meal,
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people and places late night always hopping and the party seems to never end, will cater to your appetite with gigantic platters of nachos and hefty sandwiches long after most area restaurants have turned out the lights. But for the essence of late night greasy spoonery, the mandatory pre-dawn stops are the Twig and Leaf on Bardsto wn Road and Barbara Lee’s Kitchen on Brownsboro Road. These are places where the preshredded hash browns are fr ied on a gr ill in exuberant quantities of b utter-flavored grease, where sizzling onions, biscuits and gravy, spicy bowls of chili and little boxes of frosted cereals compete f or a diner’ s attention. They’re places where on any given night you may hear monomaniacal ramblings about long-past slights, business setbacks, or fatal attractions, where girls in spaghetti straps with pierced ey ebrows and bruised eyes recount their ev ening’s adventures, where crews of tattooed musicians, dressed all in black, hang until the sun rises. If you’ve put away most of a fifth of whiskey or the better par t of a case of beer (and presumably you’re accompanied by an oh-so-patient designated driver), this
BY MARTY ROSEN
is the place to land at 4:30 a.m. to work through a plate full of fried eggs, bacon, and those greasy hash browns. After a long, wet night, that food has an undeniable appeal. These are the guilt-free hour s, after all. Let it be noted that this kind of food is much more appealing after a long night of drinking (or a bone-w eary day of physical labor) than it is when one sees it in a sober state or after a sedentar y day in an office. But there’s a wired poetr y at Barbara Lee’s at 4:30 a.m. that plays on our Bohemian fantasies lik e a greasy fauxfountain of y outh. I may be a gener ation older than the tattooed boys and girls, but it’s a comfort to know that the late night rituals continue. Some of those r ituals play out at Spinelli’s Pizza, where a glossy b lack Continental has been con verted into the coolest booth in the city , where pizza b y the slice and Phill y-style steak sandwiches can be had for a few bucks, and where the spirit—if not the actual scent—of patchouli mingles with the aroma of pepperoni, and hangs in the air lik e the hungr y memories of an ancient hippie.
In the hear t of the Highlands, which is to say the heart of Louisville’s hip youth culture, the scent is more likely to come from flavored tobacco b urning in a hookah at the Café 360, a grungy 24hour spot with an eclectic, intercontinental menu (with plenty of nods to the Middle East and India) and a flophouse atmosphere that’ s become a magnet for the area’s free spirits. All these places are well and good, but having toured the late-night greasy spoons and pizzerias, the question remained: were there any places in Louisville that could offer a peak dining exper ience during the graveyard shift? As it turned out, there were at least a f ew places with high culinary ambitions even after the witching hour, and one restaur ant that came v ery close to matching the quality of the meal I found in Chicago that Jul y night—at least on the weekends. For quality late-night dining, the Bardstown Road str ip is the best bet … perhaps the only bet. At one end, there is Ramsi’s Café On the World, an unpretentious spot that doesn’t attempt fine dining in
Diamante’s mussels simmered in white wine, tomatoes and basil.
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
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the classic sense but offers a full range of global cuisines, carefully prepared, and served in a cozy bistro atmosphere that extends out into a protected deck area f or alfresco dining (dur ing the temper ate season). When the moon is r ight, Ramsi’s may get hammered b y the club cro wd (or by the staffs of other restaurants looking for a bit of post-shift relaxation).The crowds are lured by a full menu that ranges from Asia to the Middle East, to the Western standards and includes items lik e tuna tar tare tossed with peppers, onions, avocado, and cilantro, hummus and baba ganoush, Thai noodles, curried chicken, shrimp paella, lamb biryani, snapper, sea bass, and every other kind of protein imaginable. At the other end of the Bardsto wn Road, just a few doors from the Twig and Leaf, is Diamante, where a classic Diamond gas station has been b uilt out into a classy restaurant with lofty ceilings, a beautiful bar, and an attr actively looming atmosphere that feels like the square of an ancient European city, except that sound system is likely to be pumping out the sounds of Little Walter or Howling Wolf.
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Tables are ador ned with candles and white napkins f olded into tr i-corner hats. The dining room has the b urnished wooden glow of a classic y acht, and even late at night the full menu offers items like calf ’s liver, fettuccine with fresh peas and prosciutto, rib eye steaks, bison bratwursts, mussels simmered in white wine . Even at three in the mor ning (on the w eekend, but certainly until 1 a.m. and beyond on weeknights) quality and ser vice are v ery fine. A loaf of cr isp, crunchy bread comes accompanied by a plate of vibrant olive oil stained by a pool of balsamic vinegar that floats like a fragrant escapee from a Rohrschach test. You won’t find the full menu at Asiatique at 1 a.m. But you will f ind an outstanding dining exper ience that could hold its own in any of America’s great cities. It was here , late one night, that I realized I didn’t have to travel to Chicago, New York, or anywhere else, to eat exquisite food after midnight. The restaurant has an eer ie minimalism that forces a diner to f ocus on the f ood—and what food it is. Peng Looi is indisputably
The ornate facade of the newly expanded Ramsi’s Café on the World.
one of the region’s finest chefs (and he has the credentials and honor s to pro ve it, including recognition b y the f olks at the James Beard House). And even in the depth of night, his creations shine—at prices that w ould make big-city restaurateurs cringe. Though only “small” plates are available late at night, small is relative. Certainly there was nothing small about the fla vors or the imagination behind dishes like soft shell crab dusted in ginger and ser ved with a spiky wasabiCaesar dressing, or woked lamb stir-fried with peppers and onions and nestled like a chic sloppy joe in a net of sw eet potato strips, diver scallops with fresh fr uit chutney and basil pesto, or ahi tuna sashimi with warm ponzu sauce. In my perfect dream w orld, a diner could wash those dishes do wn with a smartly selected collection of modestl y priced wines b y the glass while listening to John Coltr ane’s streaming sax lines throbbing softly in the background. And what I found one night at Asiatique was as close to a waking dream as an yone could ever hope for. F&D
Spinelli’s dining room— yes, that’s a car.
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people and places late night
BY MARTY ROSEN
t h g i n e DINING Lat If you ever succumb to the late-night m unchies but feel in the mood for something more substantial than “sliders,” you’ll want to clip and save our handy guide to Louisville-area eater ies that offer some form of dining ser vice during the shank of the evening and beyond. We’ve double-checked this list to ensure that, as of press time , every establishment listed is open late at least one night of the week at the time listed. However, because it can be prof oundly frustrating to roll up hungry to a dar kened building with a padlock ed door, we strongly recommend that you call ahead just to be sure . We endeavored to include every late-night spot. Our regrets in advance if for some reason we’ve missed your favorite.
OPEN UNTIL MIDNIGHT Azalea 895-5493 Bahama Breeze 423-9040 Bar at Blu, The 671-4285 Cheddar’s Casual Café (see guide) Chili’s 425-6800 Clifton’s Pizza 893-3730 Cumberland Brews 458-8727 Ditto’s Grill 581-9129 Hometown Pizza (see guide) Jack Fry’s 452-9244 Jack’s Lounge 897-9026 Jazz Factory 992-3242 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 426-2074 KT’s 458-8888 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 897-0070 Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt 560-1400 Molly Malone’s 473-1222 Monkey Wrench 582-2433 O’Charley’s (see guide) Oscar Brown’s 581-1222 P.F. Chang’s China Bistro 327-7707 Pizza Place 458-9700 R Place Pub 425-8516 Red Star Tavern 568-5656 Rubbies Bar-B-Que & Brew 367-0007 Ruby Tuesday (see guide) Rudyard Kipling,The 636-1311 Sapporo Japanese Grill 479-5550 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 454-3919 Sol Aztecas 459-7776 Tailgaters Sports Bar 637-5241 The Pub Louisville 569-7782 Tony BoomBozz (see guide) Tony BoomBozz Pizza & Vino 394-0000 Tumbleweed Southwest Grill (see guide) Vito’s Pizzeria 634-5400
3612 Brownsboro Road 104 Oxmoor Cour t 280 W. Jefferson Street 2 Locations 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 2230 Frankfort Avenue 1576 Bardstown Road 1114 Bardstown Road 3 Locations 1007 Bardstown Road 122 Sears Avenue 815 W. Market St. 8131 New Lagrange Road 2300 Lexington Road 1765 Mellwood Avenue Fourth Street Live 933 Baxter Avenue 1025 Barret Avenue 6 Locations 252 E. Market Street 9120 Shelbyville Road 2931 Richland Avenue 9603 Whipps Mill Road Fourth Street Live 6905 Southside Drive 2 Locations 422 W. Oak Street 1706 Bardstown Road 1611 Norris Place 2427 Bardstown Road 2787 S. Floyd Street Fourth Street Live 3 Locations 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 18 Locations 3213 Preston Highway
OPEN UNTIL 12:30 AM Annie’s Pizza Cheesecake Factory
(see guide) 897-3933
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2 Locations 5000 Shelbyville Road
GUIDE
OPEN UNTIL 1AM Applebee’s (see guide) Bearnos by the Bridge (see guide) Champions Sports Bar 671-4246 Hard Rock Café 568-2202 Hoops Grill and Spor ts Bar (see guide) Hooters (see guide) TGI Friday’s (see guide) Wicks Pizza Parlor (see guide)
9 Locations 12 Locations 280 W. Jefferson Street Fourth Street Live 2 Locations 5 Locations 3 Locations 4 Locations
OPEN UNTIL 1:30 AM Coy’s Jillian’s
363-2266 589-9090
4041 Preston Highway 630 Barret Avenue
OPEN UNTIL 2 AM Asiatique Bank Shot Billiards Bristol Bar & Grille Buffalo Wild Wings Fox & Hound La Bodega Monkey Wrench New Direction Bar & Gr ill North End Café Ramsis Café on The World Red Cheetah Lounge ZaZoo’s
451-2749 587-8260 456-1702 (see guide) 394-7620 456-4955 582-2433 243-8429 896-8770 451-0700 589-0695 894-8030
1767 Bardstown Road 403 E. Market Street 1321 Bardstown Road 6 Locations 302 Bullitt Lane 1604 Bardstown Road 1025 Barret Avenue 2630 Chamberlain Lane 1722 Frankfort Avenue 1293 Bardstown Road Fourth Street Live 102 Bauer Avenue
OPEN UNTIL 3 AM Diamante Flanagan’s Ale House Jersey’s Café Legend’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub Saint’s
456-1705 585-3700 288-2100 888-766-2648 589-7373 891-8883
2280 Bardstown Road 934 Baxter Avenue 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville Caesars Indiana Casino 956 Baxter Avenue 131 Breckinridge Lane
OPEN UNTIL 4 AM Chicken King Diamond Pub & Billiards King’s Fried Chicken
589-5464 895-7513 776-3013
639 E. Broadway 3814 Frankfort Avenue 1302 Dixie Highway
OPEN UNTIL 5 AM La Bamba Spinelli’s Pizzeria
451-1418 568-5665
1237 Bardstown Road 614 Baxter Avenue
OPEN 24/7 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen Café 360 Cleo’s Coffee and More Juanita’s Burger Boy Karma Café Steak N Shake Twig & Leaf Restaurant
897-3967 473-8694 888-766-2648 635-7410 587-0062 (see guide) 451-8944
2410 Brownsboro Road 1582 Bardstown Road Caesars Indiana Casino 1450 S. Brook Street 1126 Bardstown Road 6 Locations 2122 Bardstown Road
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BY RON JOHNSON
s u b m u l Co
wise man—or maybe it was a wise guy—once said that the buckeye is a useless n ut. The capital of the Buckeye State, however is far from useless or nutty when it comes to quality dining options. Kentuckians looking for a weekend getaway often overlook Columbus. But it’s only 100 miles bey ond Cincinnati, and the scant 31/2-hour drive should put it on an y list that includes Nashville and St. Louis as weekend destinations. Much like Louisville, Columbus has invested heavily in urban renewal in recent years. The results are immediatel y evident. The downtown corridor is built on a gr id with large office buildings, swank hotels, and retail stores. While there is fine dining to be had in this area, it is lar gely geared toward the expense account cro wds who frequent places like Morton’s Steakhouse. Exceptions include the Flat Iron Bar and Grill and the restaur ants located in the Arena District, a gentrified section of downtown that sur rounds the newly built downtown home of the Columb us Blue Jackets hockey team. The Flat Iron gets its name from the b uilding in which it occupies the ground floor , built as a replica of the famous triangular tower in 44 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
downtown Manhattan. The Flat Iron’ s Bourbon and Scotch list is extraordinary, and the sandwiches are legend among downtown lunch-goers. In the Arena District, hockey fans and concert-goers can enjoy a pre-game meal or post-game libations at a n umber of restaurants and bar s. Barley’s Alehouse No. 1 is the spot for serious beer connoisseurs. A selection of ev er changing seasonal brews is off ered from the comfortable oak bar. Pub grub dominates the menu, highlighted by fried sauerkraut balls. O’Shaughnessy’s Public House will be familiar ter ritory for Irish Rover regulars. This Irish pub and restaur ant is all woodwork and stained glass. Young professionals dominate the after -work scene, and it f ills with Blue Jack ets fans before and after games. Irish staples such as fish and chips, corned beef hash, and a twist on Welsh rabbit are consistently well-made. For those more interested in dining amid German cultural heritage or architecturally significant homes, Columbus boasts two eclectic and div erse neighborhoods. The German Village and the Shor t North neighborhood bookend the do wntown
corridor on the south and north sides, respectively. Both neighborhoods off er quality dining options in price ranges suited for all pocketbooks. The Short North is just that; a short walk north of do wntown Columbus. A large wrought-iron arch o ver the street marks the entr ance to the neighborhood. Art galleries, boutique clothing stores, and warmly lighted restaurants fill every block, and folks of all ages stroll the sidewalks around them. Rigsby’s Kitchen is a welcoming restaurant and bar populated by locals and tourists alike.The main dining room is sleek and moder n with exposed brick walls and tall ceilings that giv e an industrial feel. The front room houses a long marble bar, the open kitchen and a massive picture windo w showcasing the action on High Street. The Ciccheti Menu features Venetian-style small snacks lik e fried sardines and shr imp bruschetta that are natural compliments to the wellcrafted cocktails. Those looking for a less cosmopolitan but equally fine dining experience will appreciate the down-home goodness of the Press Grill. It’s no wonder that journalists seek oasis in this clean, well-lighted place,
PHOTOS BY KAREN LYNCH
A
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and not just f or the generousl y poured cocktails.The menu is full of home-cooked favorites, including hearty soups and sandwiches. Free bar food is set out for patrons throughout the ev ening, often including a number of fr ied delicacies. The tin bar and narrow, old-fashioned shotgun style building evokes Louisville’s Germantown institutions. The hidden secret of Columbus dining is a secret no more , but it remains hidden. Basi Italia is a tiny restaurant located in a restored carriage house off an alley between Hubbard and Buttles Streets in Short North. Its hard-to-find location has insured its local-only status, but tourists are treated like gold by the friendly and skilled waitstaff. The open kitchen hums with energy serving dishes like pan-roasted clams with micro-greens and Chef Matthew Hite’s specialty of roasted half chicken in a sauce of gr apes and chive oil. Cuisine Francaise is on the men u at L’Antibes. There one can f ind all the familiar French favorites served in a setting fit for special occasions and romantic meetings.The hushed and polished ser vice matches the subdued and classic décor. Those who relish classic prepar ations of lamb loin, pheasant, and beef filet will feel right at home.
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Barcelona is not the restaur ant that one might expect to find in the heart of the German Village. The neighborhood located to the south of do wntown is known for its meticulousl y maintained German heritage, but at Barcelona diners find exciting cuisine fusing Mediter ranean and Asian styles and ingredients. Plank’s Bier Garten sports a name more befitting the neighborhood, but few would guess that it is also the local hot spot for good pizza. Thurman Café is long on ambience b ut short on seats. This spot for great b urgers is popular among locals, so plan a visit during off-peak hours. Katzinger’s Delicatessen serves up an authentic deli exper ience that can be hard to find in Louisville. Sandwiches are noteworthy for high quality meats and heights that exceed the siz e of one’ s mouth. Perhaps it is not the f irst city that comes to the mind of a Louisvillian looking for a w eekend getaway, but for those seeking something besides Cincinnati or Indianapolis, Columbus offers a w ealth of great dining destinations. With its restored old neighborhoods, revitalized downtown, and quality dining scene , Columbus proves that the Buck eye State is home to a lot more than a useless nut. F&D
PHOTO BY SCOTT CUNNINGHAM
Basi Italia Chef John Dornback’s mustard-crusted trout with sweet and sour Italian vegetables, and orange scallion pesto.
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recipes top chef recipes
PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY
C O O K I N G
W I T H
Cheese
“CHEESE IT! THE COPS!” NO, WAIT, THAT’S “CHEESE IT, THE COOKS!” The Sullivan University cooks, that is. In response to our Food & Dining recipe challenge, Chef-Instructors Collen Engle and Rob Beighey have come up with a veritable fondue of hear ty, stick-to-your-ribs seasonal dishes that use cheese in unusual and creative ways. Chef Rob Beighey’s fresh pumpkin and smoked gouda soup served in mini-pumpkin bowls.
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Chef Rob Beighey’s warm winter squash and leek salad with an apple butter vinaigrette and a garnish of toasted Parmesan.
“
Chef Collen Engle’s caramelized onion and provolone galette prepared with acorn squash accompanied with an autumn salad and maple syr up vinaigrette.
Chef Collen Engle’s apple-cranberry ricotta tart combined with toasted almonds and port wine.
When most people think of cooking with cheese, they think of things lik e cubes of cheese on toothpicks or macaroni and cheese or a cheese soufflé,” Engle said. “But cheese isn’t just a centerpiece, it can be an ingredient. When they’re making a salad, people might not think, ‘Oh, I could put cheese in that salad.’ We hope our ideas will inspire them to get creative with cheese.” In similar fashion, once you get past the obligatory cheesecake, who puts cheese in desser t? “People just don’t think about using cheese with desser t, but just tr y putting a slice of Cheddar cheese on apple pie ,” Engle said. Who puts cheese in soup , as Beighey did with his pumpkin and smoked Gouda soup in mini-pumpkin bowls? Marinated cheese offers another simple, appetizingly offbeat variation: “Take a nice olive oil, chop garlic and herbs, leave the cheese in there so it absorbs fla vor, and sprinkle it on salad or ser ve it on a toothpick or skewer. I’ve even seen kabobs with cheese. Put cheese on a sk ewer and grill it over a fire, but be careful or it will melt and fall off. ” Don’t just stuff cheese into ravioli, Engle suggests. Try slicing a pocket in a thick por k tenderloin and fill it with a mix of f eta cheese, olives and roasted red pepper s, and “you’ve created something entirely new.” Picking up the theme, Beighey made a similar point: “I’m trying to take some food products that are common b ut are not commonly made in the wa y I use them, and combine them with a cheese that would pair well … an alternate use for foods that are readily available but are not usually used in those wa ys. We think of pumpkin pie, for instance, but maybe not about pumpkin soup. We’re used to sweet butternut and acorn squash in a puree, but maybe not in a war m winter salad.” After all, the chefs agreed, some of the most striking dishes y ou’ll find in a fancy restaurant—or on y our own dinner table—may be simple concepts that gain
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1/4 pound mild provolone, grated 1 egg white, beaten flair from creative innovations that put a new spin on old ideas. Engle’s two recipes feature a galette, a French treat that y ou could almost describe as a rich pastry pizza topped with acorn squash, caramelized onions and Provolone cheese, served with an autumn salad dressed with a sw eet-tart maple syrup vinaigrette. He pairs it with a striking tart made with a flourless almond shell, filled with a cream y mix of r icotta cheese and dried apples and cr anberries laced with Port wine. “I tried to think of autumn and winter, in terms of a salad with apple and pumpkin seeds, squash and seasonal ingredients, ” he said. The galette is a favorite—it can make a nice lunch b y itself, but I put it with a salad to f orm a substantial lunch or light supper. It’s flexible, you can make a big one f or a family or several smaller individual servings.” He came up with the tar t recipe as a holiday-season dessert that “gets cheese involved. People get caught up with the idea of apple , pumpkin or mince pie f or Thanksgiving or Christmas. I wanted to do something seasonal but a little different.” Beighey’s recipes both speak of the season, too. His fresh pumpkin and smoked Gouda soup is a r iff on a harvest bisque that he used when he was a chef at the Old Grist Mill Tavern in Seekonk, Massachusetts, reinvented by substituting pumpkin for winter squash, with a new dimension added b y the creative use of smok ed Gouda, an outstanding pairing with the pumpkin flavor. Serving it in fresh mini-pumpkin bowls garnished with pumpkin seeds makes a stunning presentation. He came up with the idea f or his second dish on the fl y, but it reads lik e a classic, a warm salad gar nished with julienne strips of b utternut and acor n squash and leeks dressed with an inventive seasonal apple-walnut vinaigrette. Its cheese component is br illiant, a crunchy round of Parmesan cheese toasted in the style of a Nor theastern Italian frico. Cheese it? You bet! 48 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
Chef Collen Engle Caramelized Onion and Young Provolone Galette with Autumn Salad SERVES 4 For the pastry: 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/8 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, very cold, cut into 1/8-inch cubes 1/2 cup ice water 1. Mix together the flour, salt, and sugar. 2. Using a pastr y cutter or a f ork, cut the chilled butter into the flour mixture until the mixture f orms into flour -butter balls the size of small peas. 3. Make a w ell in the middle of this mix and stir in the ice water, one tablespoon at a time, until the mixture is slightly crumbly but holds together. 4. Form it into f our separate balls, flatten them into discs, wrap each with plastic and refrigerate for at least two hours. For the topping: 1 small acorn squash 2 tablespoons butter 1 small yellow onion, sliced thin 1/2 cup white wine 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves Salt and pepper to taste 1. Cut the acor n squash into quar ters, remove the seeds, sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast in a 350-degree oven for about 45 minutes or until the squash can be easily pierced with a fork. Let cool. 2. Melt the b utter in a sauté pan o ver medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 10 min utes. Add the white wine and continue cooking until the onions begin to brown, about 20 minutes. 3. Peel the squash and slice it into 1/8-inch pieces. Add squash pieces and th yme to the cooking onions. Stir for two minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste . Set aside. Assembling the galettes: All the ingredients prepared above, plus:
1. Remove the pastr y discs from the refrigerator and roll them out 1/8-inch thick on a well floured surface. 2. Divide topping ev enly among the f our rounds, leaving a 1-inch border . Fold the border over the edges of the topping, leaving a “window” of filling exposed. 3. Sprinkle cheese evenly over topping. 4. Brush the exposed dough with the beaten egg and bak e at 350 degrees f or about 20 min utes or until the cheese is golden brown. For the autumn salad and its maple syrup vinaigrette: 4 cups mixed fall greens 2 radishes, sliced thin 1 Gala or other eating apple, sliced thin 1/4 cup raisins 2 tablespoons roasted pumpkin seeds 1 cup aged Cheddar cheese, cut into 1/4-inch cubes 1/4 cup maple syrup 1/8 cup balsamic vinegar 1 cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste 1. Combine greens, radishes, apples, raisins, pumpkin seeds and cheese in a bo wl. 2. Whisk maple syrup and balsamic vinegar together. Drizzle in the oil while continuing to whisk. Add salt and pepper to taste . 3. Add enough vinaigrette to salad to coat the lettuce leaves. Final assembly: Remove galettes from oven. Serve while still hot with the autumn salad.
Apple-Cranberry Ricotta Tart SERVES 6 For the crust: 2 cups almonds, lightly toasted 6 tablespoons light brown sugar 3/4 stick unsalted butter, melted 1. Melt the butter in a microwave. 2. In a f ood processor combine the almonds and brown sugar and process until finely chopped. Drizzle in butter while pulsing until the butter is incorporated. 3. Divide the mixture ev enly between six 4-inch tart pans with remo vable bottoms or six 4-inch spring-form pans (I prefer the spring-form pan), pressing the almond mixture firmly against the sides.
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4. Bake for seven minutes in a 325-degree oven, then remove and cool. Preparing the fruit: 1/2 cup Port wine 1/2 cup dried cranberries 2/3 cup dried apples, cut small 1. Heat the Port in a saucepan until war m. 2. Pour it over the cr anberries and apples in a small bowl. Let sit for 20 minutes, drain and set aside. For the filling: 2 cups fresh whole milk ricotta cheese , drained if necessary 1/2 cup granulated sugar 2 eggs 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour Combine all ingredients in a bo wl and stir until the mixture is creamy and well blended. Assembly: 1. Place the tar t shells on a baking sheet. 2. Divide the cranberries and apples evenly among the six shells. Carefully pour the cheese mixture evenly over the fruit. 3. Bake the shells for 45 to 50 min utes in a 325-degree o ven until the tops are golden brown. Let them cool completel y before serving.
Chef Rob Beighey Fresh Pumpkin and Smoked Gouda Soup SERVES 4 (3-OUNCE DEMI-PORTIONS) For the Soup: 3 cups fresh pumpkin 1 shallot 1 medium carrot 2 stalks celery 2 tablespoons clarified butter 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons dry Sherry 3 cups chicken stock 1 cup heavy cream 3 ounces smoked Gouda cheese 1. Peel and rough-chop all vegetables.
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2. Heat butter in a medium-size saucepan. Add the vegetables and lightly sautĂŠ, do not brown. Cover and sw eat until v egetables are slightly tender. Dust with flour. 3. Deglaze with Sher ry. Add hot chick en stock and br ing to a boil. Simmer until all vegetables are soft. 4. Transfer to a food processor and puree. Using the empty pot, heat the heavy cream. Add the v egetable puree to the heavy cream and bring back to a simmer. 5. Reduce heat to very low and add the cheese. When the cheese is completel y melted, transfer the soup to a doub le boiler to keep hot. For the pumpkin bowls and seeds: 4 mini pumpkins 41/2 tablespoon pats of butter Dash salt and pepper Pinch sugar Dash dry Sherry Dash cayenne pepper or red pepper flakes Dash nutmeg 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Carefully remove the pumpkin tops, scoop out and reser ve the seeds. Rinse and pat dr y the inter ior of the hollo wedout pumpkins and place in a shallow baking pan. Distribute the b utter, salt, pepper, sugar, and Sherry to the insides of the pumpkins. Replace the pumpkin tops. 3. Place in hot o ven and bak e until the pumpkin is tender. 4. Wash and soak the pumpkin seeds in cold salt water. 5. Place the seeds in an ev en layer on a cookie sheet. Dust with n utmeg and cayenne. Bake at 200 degrees until the seeds are dry and crisp. Assembly: Remove the hot mini-pumpkins from the pan. Ladle hot soup into pumpkin bowls, garnish with toasted seeds and ser ve.
Warm Winter Squash and Leek Salad with Apple Butter Vinaigrette and Toasted Parmesan SERVES 4 For the salad: 1 cup butternut squash, cut in julienne strips 1/2 cup acorn squash 1 leek 3 tablespoons salt
3 tablespoons sugar 8 ounces mixed salad greens 1. Peel the squash and cut into julienne strips. Thoroughly wash the white section of the leek and cut into julienne str ips. 2. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add salt and sugar, and allow to dissolv e. Blanch each vegetable separately in this flavored water until just tender . Shock each vegetable in ice water to stop cooking; drain, dry, and set aside. 3. Wash the mixed greens and drain, dry, and set aside. For the dressing: 1/4 cup apple butter 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 1/4 cup chicken stock 1/4 teaspoon brown sugar 1/4 teaspoon spicy brown mustard 2 tablespoons poppy seeds 3/4 cup walnut oil Salt White pepper 1. Heat the first six ingredients to simmer in medium sauce pan, do not boil. 2. Remove from heat. Whisk in walnut oil. Season with salt and white pepper. Return to heat to keep warm. For the toasted Parmesan: 8 ounces fresh, good quality Parmesan cheese 1. Finely shred cheese using a micro-plane or fine grater. 2. Heat a small nonstick sautĂŠ pan. 3. Lightly sprinkle cheese into the bottom of the pan in a v ery thin, even layer and allow it to brown slightly. 4. Remove pan from heat and let cool. While cooling, using a heat-saf e rubber spatula, gently lift the edges of the cheese to separate it from the pan, taking care to keep it flat. 5. When the cheese is completel y cool, gently slide it onto a flat surface . Break in half and set aside for assembly. Assembly: Arrange the greens on a plate . Toss the squashes and leeks in the war m dressing separately and, using a ring mold, layer the vegetables on top of the greens. Remove the mold and dr izzle with more dressing. Finish with toasted Parmesan. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 49
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BY JAY FORMAN
I k n ow w hat it means to miss
Jay Forman’s self-portrait while inspecting his home in New Orleans.
H
uman beings really are remarkable creatures.We can be rescued from terrible circumstances, brought to safety, and within hour s of regaining our bearings and assessing our situation we can find something to complain about. Well, at least I can. In the weeks following my evacuation from Hurricane Katrina, I’ve learned a lot about foods for which I had no pr ior appreciation. For instance, I have learned the hard way to stay the hell away from vegetarian MREs. The military appears to have embedded a not-so-subtle subtext into these men u selections. That subtext is: If you are a v egetarian, you are a weenie, and therefore do not deser ve a tasty dessert. To prove the point, I’ve compiled a point-by-point comparison of two MREs in my possession. First the God-fearing, meatcontaining normal person option: Menu No. 5—Grilled Chicken Chicken breast fillet, seasoned Minestrone stew Vegetable snack bread with jalapeño cheese spread Regulation-size package of M&Ms Almond poppy-seed pound cake French-vanilla cappuccino drink mix
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Now take a look at the vegetarian offering: Menu No. 12—Veggie Burger with BBQ Sauce Veggie burger patty in BBQ sauce 2 packs of “wheat snack bread” (I’m assuming this is the bun) Beverage base, powder, orange Type II Fortification D Dried cranberries “Potato sticks” I half-expected to f ind a package of freeze-dried panties tucked away in there with the matches and Chiclets. Can you imagine some poor bastard trying to trade this stuff with his f ellow soldiers? “Hey Charlie, what will y ou give me f or this orange beverage base po wder? No, really—it’s got Type II For tification D in it! How ’bout that French vanilla cappuccino? No? Wait …” My point is fur ther buttressed by the vegetarian pasta menu selection. Not only does it include the cruel, oxymoronic phrase “vegetable sausage,” the dessert item is r aisins. And not nor mal raisins, either. Government raisins. My own evacuation prepar ations for Hurricane Katrina essentially consisted of placing underwear into a gym bag. My
fiancée and I anticipated being a way for two or three days, tops, so we holed up at a Days Inn not far from New Or leans to wait out the storm. As the outer bands of Katrina swept over us, the motel began filling up. Mutual friends from New Orleans materialized. These folk were led by a former Navy man named Teddy, whose militaristic competence threatened the core premise of my underwear-centric evacuation plan. He came equipped with Coleman lanterns, bug spray, nuclear batteries and coolers full of apparently self-replicating ice. His wards brought in secondar y supplies including an aluminum washtub full of Champagne , bottles of v odka and Bourbon, folding rocking lawn chairs, and an Alzheimer’sridden grandpa complete with a liv e-in nurse. And, as they w ere from the r itzy Uptown section of New Orleans, they also brought cut-crystal stemware, the better from which to sip their Champagne . “Clearly, I have a lot to lear n about evacuation plans and stor m preparation,” I thought, discreetly nudging my sack of Fritos and pudding snack-packs under the bed where Teddy could not see them. Isn’t the spirit, resilience, and identity of a culture often expressed through its food in
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times of great cr isis? Much as matz o on Passover symbolizes the hurried exodus of the Jews from Egypt, could I contr ibute in some way to a nob le culinary tradition? Not with m y menu of apple slices and peanut butter, I can’t. Next time, I’m going to have to do better. As the days played out, I often found myself sitting with the gr andfather who, despite being placed in the breezeway on the second floor of a motel just off Interstate 10, thought he was back home in New Orleans.We would pass the hours engaged in r iveting conversation, which invariably went like this. “Are you from here?” he would ask. “No, just visiting,” I’d answer. “Are you here with friends?” “Just my fiancée; she’s sitting over there.” I’d point down the breezeway where Megan sat reading a book. He’d lean across me and squint over at her. “You are a lucky man!” he’d say with a pleasant smile. “I sure am,” I would agree. We’d sit back and rock in the chair s. After about five seconds, he’d turn to me and ask, “Are you from here?” I’ve got to say that I actually found this conversation soothing, like reciting a Buddhist mantra. And out of all of us, grandpa was cer tainly the most relaxed. After the initial, frantic first days passed, the mood at the motel shifted from a sor t of semi-cheerful “we are all in this together” mentality to a grimmer, more forbidding perspective as the reality of the damage to New Or leans became clear. A new wave of tr ansients cruised through the parking lot, low on gas and sending out a threatening vibe. We were now on day three with no electricity, and our ice had melted long ago. We sensed it was time to move on, but we were not sure where to go . We had packed for a weekend at best and they were saying it would be months before we could return to what was left of our homes. Megan and I drove to Baton Rouge for the afternoon, trying to get to a phone that worked to contact our families, and when we returned we were exhausted,
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hot and hungr y. Teddy came over and said he had a sur prise for us. He and his sons had gone back to their home that da y. Since their generator was low on gas, they decided to cook what was left in their freezer. So they fired up their gas gr ill and Teddy had brought us back a meal. We sat outside on the cement in the cool of the breezeway, and Teddy set down for us f ilet mignon, boiled shrimp and hot green beans. In another time, just four days ago, I might have said the steak was overdone. I would have commented that the shrimp boil lack ed seasoning, and that the green beans came from a can. But on this night, with an unfamiliar future stretching before us and not kno wing where w e would be mo ving on to tomor row, I can honestly say it was the best steak I have ever had.There in the light of the hurricane lamps we had our f irst real meal after the stor m, and for a short time we were able to forget the gathering madness around us and the uncertainty of the days ahead. Three weeks after the storm I managed to slip back into the city and see my home for the first time. My street had been inundated by five feet of water, and all the plants and shrubs were dead except for the banana trees. Apparently the 10-day
immersion in a briny solution of toxic soup worked on them like Miracle-Gro, because they were bigger and healthier than they were before I evacuated. I needed a cro wbar and hammer just to get inside m y house, as the front door had swelled up against the fr ame. Among my many neuroses is a f ear of expired groceries. As a r ule of thumb , I refuse to consume stuff tw o days before the expiration date, just to err on the safe side. So when I finally got inside and saw that my home resembled 1,800 square feet of forsaken cheese, I began h yperventilating inside my respirator. But however sad and smelly this was, it was still m y home, so I pulled on my gloves and got to work. In the end, really, I’m going to be okay. I lost my house, but I have insurance. The big wedding we had planned was scrapped, but I still have my wife. I’ve found strength in friends and family, and received kindness from str angers everywhere I’ve been. I’m fortunate compared to so man y of those displaced, or worse, by the storm. I still don’t know what the future holds for us, but I didn’t really know that before Katrina hit, so what is the diff erence? At least now I kno w enough to a void the vegetarian MREs. F&D
The water caused the hardbound books to change shape like warm butter settles into its ser ving dish.
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ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).
Alphabetical Index
[ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. RESTAURANT
Cuisine Style AFRICAN ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CARIBBEAN/CUBAN CASUAL DINING COFFEE HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/GREEK EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN EUROPEAN/SPANISH FINE DINING HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN INDIAN MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL
Area Maps
56 73 73 75 76 76 76 72 71 59 60 67 78 78 63 80 81 67 77 77 77 77 77 78 56 66 78 79 73 78 68 70 61 80 62 57
82
MAP # DIRECTION PG # Overview 82 (Index) Downtown 84 1 (Downtown Louisville) Near East 85 2 (Highlands – Crescent Hill) East 86 3 (St. Matthews) South East 87 4 (Hikes Point – Buechel) East 88 5 (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon) South East 89 6 (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) North East 90 7 (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) North East 90 8 (Westport Rd.) Far East 91 9 (Middletown) North East 91 10 (Prospect) South East 91 11 (Fern Creek) South 92 12 (Airport – Okolona) South West 93 13 (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) Indiana 94 14 (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) Indiana 95 15 (Clarksville) Indiana 95 16 (Jeffersonville)
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE
2 Hahn’s Mongolian Grill 73 211 Clover Lane 56 316 Ormsby 59 610 Magnolia 56 A Little Taste of Heaven 60 A Nice Restaurant 63 A Taste of China 73 Al Watan 78 Alameda 80 Alley Cat Café 60 Amazing Grace Deli 70 Anchor Inn 66 Angilo’s Pizza 68 Angio’s Restaurant 68 Annie Café 76 Annie’s Pizza 68 Ann’s by the River 67 Another Place 70 Anthony’s 70 Anytimes 63 Applebee’s 63 Appleby’s Café 60 Arni’s Pizza 68 Aroma Café 60 Artemisia 57 Artisan’s Coffee Café 80 Asian Buffet 73 Asiatique 57 Atomic Saucer 81 Atrium Café 59 August Moon 73 Austin’s 57 Avalon 57 Azalea 57 Babby’s Steakhouse 62 Backyard BBQ 71 Backyard Burger 70 Bahama Breeze 78 Bakelicious 81 Bake’s Barbeque 71 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 73 Bank Shot Billiards 70 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 Baxter Station 59 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 Bean Street Café 81 Bearno’s Pizza 68 Beef O’Brady’s 72 Beg for More Café 60 Behar Café 77 Bendoya Sushi Bar 75 Bentley’s 63 Big Ben’s Barbeque 71 Big Dave’s Outpost 72 Big Hopp’s 63 Big Subs 70 Blimpie’s Subs 70 BLU Mediterranean Grille 57 Blue Dog Bakery 60 Blue Mule Sports Café 72 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 73 Bluegrass Café 60 Bombay Int’l. Market 78 Bonefish Grill 61 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 71 Bourbon Bros. BBQ 71 Bourbons Bistro 59 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 72 Bravo! 57 Breadworks 81 Bristol Bar & Grille 57 Browning’s Brewery 73 Buca Di Beppo 77 Buckhead Mountain Grill 63 Buck’s 56 Buffalo Crossing 67 Buffalo Wild Wings 72 Bull Frog Garden 63 Bulldog Café 60 The Butterfly Garden Café 60 C.A.P.P.P.’s Deli 70 Café 360 78 The Café at the Antique Mall 60 Café Emilie 57
MAP #
Asian/Chinese 6 Fine Dining 3 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Fine Dining 1 Cafés 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 4 Southwest/Tex Mex 2 Cafés 9 Sandwich/Deli 2 Home Style/Southern 9 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Cafeterias 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 7 Casual Dining [9] Cafés 16 Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Coffee House 7 Asian/Chinese 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Coffee House 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 7 Steakhouse 16 Barbecue 14 Sandwich/Deli 6 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Desserts/Bakery 12 Barbecue 13 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3, 9 Coffee House 14 Pizza [12] Bar & Grill 3, 8, 9, 12 Cafés 12 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 1 Casual Dining 1 Barbecue 16 Bar & Grill 2 Casual Dining 1 Sandwich/Deli 13 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4, 6 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Bar & Grill 6 Microbreweries 1, 3 Cafés 4 Indian 2 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 Barbecue 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 8 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5 Microbreweries 1 European/Italian 6 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12, 16 Fine Dining 1 Entertainment Dining 6 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Casual Dining 11 Cafés 12 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3
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Café Fraiche Café J Café Kilimanjaro Café Lou Lou Café Metro Café Mimosa Caffe Classico California’s Coffee House California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carolina Shrimp & Seafood Carolyn’s Carrabba’s Italian Grille Champions Grill Champion’s Sports Rest. Ch¯ eba Hut Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheesecake Factory Chez Seneba African Chick Inn The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China Buffet China Garden China Inn China King China King Palace China Sea Buffet Chinatown Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chinese Restaurant Chong Garden Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Ciano’s Cici’s City Café City Wok Clark Boy Bar-B-Que Clarksville Seafood Cleon’s Rib Shack Cleo’s Coffee Clifton’s Pizza Club Grotto Coach Lamp Coffee Beanery Coffee Pot Café Colonnade Cafeteria Come Back Inn Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Country Kitchen Coys’ Cravings a la Carte Crawdaddy’s Café Cribstone Pub Crystal Chinese Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s Cutting Board Café Cyclers Café Danish Express Day’s Espresso DBL Shotz De La Torre’s Deke’s Marketplace Grill Del Frisco’s Delta Restaurant Derby Café Derby City Café by Dalal Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts by Helen De-ville’s Diamante Diamond Pub & Billiards Diefenbach Café Dillon’s Steakhouse Dinner Is Done Dino’s Down to Lunch Ditto’s Grill Dixie Cup Café Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Djuli
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MAP #
60 Cafés 7 60 Cafés 3 73 African 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 56 Fine Dining 2 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 81 Coffee House 2 81 Coffee House 14 68 Pizza 5 63 Casual Dining 10 63 Casual Dining 12 61 Seafood 3 66 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Italian 5 64 Casual Dining 16 72 Bar & Grill 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 1 60 Cafés 3, 9 64 Casual Dining 8, 15 57 Upscale Casual 3 73 African 12 64 Casual Dining 10 66 Home Style/Southern 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 64 Casual Dining 5 73 Asian/Chinese 15 73 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 6, 14 73 Asian/Chinese 11 73 Asian/Chinese 9 73 Asian/Chinese 3, 12 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 74 Asian/Chinese 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 9 68 Pizza 4, 14 60 Cafés 1, 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 72 Barbecue 13 61 Seafood 15 72 Barbecue 1 81 Coffee House 14 68 Pizza 2 57 Upscale Casual 2 57 Upscale Casual 1 81 Coffee House 5 81 Coffee House 1 67 Cafeterias 1 77 European/Italian 1, 16 57 Upscale Casual 5 66 Home Style/Southern 9 66 Home Style/Southern 1 66 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Casual Dining 12 67 Cafeterias 1 78 Cajun/Creole 16 72 Bar & Grill 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Microbreweries 2 64 Casual Dining 1 60 Cafés 8 60 Cafés 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 81 Coffee House 1, 2 81 Coffee House 16 78 European/Spanish 2 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 62 Steakhouse 3 72 Bar & Grill 1 60 Cafés 12 60 Cafés 4 67 Entertainment Dining 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 66 Home Style/Southern 12 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 72 Bar & Grill 3 60 Cafés 15 63 Steakhouse 6 66 Home Style/Southern 6 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 60 Cafés 13 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 European/Bosnian 12
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RESTAURANT
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Dmitri’s Deli D’Nalley’s Restaurant Domino’s Pizza Don Pablos Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon 8 Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon Buffet Double Dragon II Downtown New Orleans Dragon Garden Duke’s Grille & Bar Dutch’s Tavern Dynasty Buffet Eastern House Eggroll King Eggroll Machine El Caporal El Mundo El Nopal El Nopalito El Restaurante Chiquito El Rey Mexican El Rodeo Mexican El Tarasco Emperor of China Empress of China The English Grill Equus Erika’s German Rest. Ermin’s French Bakery Ernesto’s Euro Market Eva Mae’s Expressions of You Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que Fast Break Pizza Fat Jimmy’s Fat Tony’s Pizza Federal Hill Feed Bag Deli Ferd Grisanti Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Fifth Quarter Figaro’s Pizzeria Finley’s BBQ Fire Fresh Bar B Q First Wok The Fish House The Fish Hut The Fishery The Fishery Station Flabby’s Schnitzelburg The Flagship Flanigans Ale House Fork in the Road Formosa Chinese Fountain Room Four King’s Café Fox & Hound Frank’s Steak House Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli Fratello’s Pizza Frolio’s Pizza Fuji Steakhouse Furlong’s Garden Room Café Gasthaus Gavi’s Restaurant Geli Cakes Genny’s Diner Germantown Café Gerstle’s Place Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Wall Goose Creek Diner Gourmet Grazing Grand Buffet Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grapevine Pantry Great American Grill Great Wall Great Wok Gumbo A Go-Go Hall’s Cafeteria Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café
MAP #
70 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Home Style/Southern 1 68 Pizza [20] 79 Mexican 15 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 74 Asian/Chinese 2,3 74 Asian/Chinese 1 74 Asian/Chinese 6 74 Asian/Chinese 5 74 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 78 Cajun/Creole 1 74 Asian/Chinese 2 64 Casual Dining 12 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 13 74 Asian/Chinese 13 74 Asian/Chinese 2 79 Mexican 4,6,12,15 79 Mexican 2 79 Mexican 6, 8, 12 79 Mexican 2, 4, 11 79 Mexican 14 79 Mexican 4 79 Mexican 13 79 Mexican 3, 5, 12 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 4 56 Fine Dining 1 56 Fine Dining 3 77 European/German 6 61 Cafés 1, 10, 14 79 Mexican 3, 5, 12, 16 70 Sandwich/Deli 8 64 Casual Dining 16 81 Coffee House 7 72 Barbecue 6, 15 68 Pizza 8 68 Pizza 2, 5 68 Pizza 6 61 Cafés 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 77 European/Italian 6 79 Mexican 8 63 Steakhouse 12 68 Pizza 9 72 Barbecue 1 72 Barbecue 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 74 Asian/Chinese 13 61 Seafood 2 61 Seafood 1 61 Seafood 3 61 Seafood 11 72 Bar & Grill 1 56 Fine Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 2 66 Home Style/Southern 13 74 Asian/Chinese 14 64 Casual Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 4 72 Bar & Grill 3 63 Steakhouse 16 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 68 Pizza 16 68 Pizza 12 75 Asian/Japanese 8 78 Cajun/Creole 2 61 Cafés 1 77 European/German 7 64 Casual Dining 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 2 61 Cafés 1 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 8 61 Cafés 10 74 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Bar & Grill 1 78 Middle Eastern 2 61 Cafés 9 73 Bar & Grill 12 74 Asian/Chinese 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 78 Cajun/Creole 2 67 Cafeterias 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1
RESTAURANT
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Harper’s Restaurant Harvest Moon Havana Rumba Hazelwood Restaurant Heavenly Ham Heine Brothers Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Highland Coffee Co. Highlands Taproom Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holly’s Legal Street Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Hot Dog Heaven Howl at the Moon Ichiban Samurai Impellizeri’s Imperial Palace Indi’s Restaurant India Palace The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Harrods Jabber’s Sports Grill Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jade Palace Jalapeño’s Jane’s Cafeteria Jarfi’s Bistro Jasmine Java Brewing Co. Jay’s Cafeteria Jazz Factory Jersey Mike’s Subs Jersey’s Café Jessie’s Restaurant Jillian’s Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy’s on the River Joe Huber Restaurant Joe Muggs Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John E’s JoJo’s Fish Market Juanita’s Burger Boy Juan’s Mexican Restaurant Jucy’s Smokehouse Juke Box Julie’s of Jeffersonville Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Restaurant Karma Café Kashmir Indian Kern’s Korner Kim’s Asian Grille King Buffet King Wok Kingfish King’s Buffet Kings Fast Food King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II KT’s Kunz’s KY Taco L&N Wine Bar and Bistro La Bamba La Bodega La Embajada La Herradura La Marimba La Peche II La Petit Patisserie La Tapatia Lazy Jane Café Le Relais Leander’s on Oak Lee’s Korean Legend’s
MAP #
60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 74 Asian/Chinese 5 78 Caribbean/Cuban 3 67 Home Style/Southern 13 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 81 Coffee House 2, 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 81 Coffee House 1, 2 68 Pizza 2 73 Bar & Grill 11 81 Coffee House 14 67 Home Style/Southern 1 67 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 68 Pizza 7, 9, 13 74 Asian/Chinese 14 74 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Bar & Grill 8, 12 64 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 67 Entertainment Dining 1 75 Asian/Japanese 6 68 Pizza 5 74 Asian/Chinese 11 67 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 78 Indian 5 77 European/Irish 2, 7 68 Pizza 13 57 Upscale Casual 3 61 Cafés 1 57 Upscale Casual 3 73 Bar & Grill 11 57 Upscale Casual 2 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 74 Asian/Chinese 7 79 Mexican 13 67 Cafeterias 4 58 Upscale Casual 1 74 Asian/Chinese 9 81 Coffee House 1, 2, 3, 9, 10 67 Cafeterias 1 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 73 Bar & Grill 15 67 Home Style/Southern 13 68 Entertainment Dining 2 72 Barbecue 12 64 Casual Dining 16 68 Entertainment Dining 14 81 Coffee House 3, 8 61 Seafood 1 78 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 64 Casual Dining 5 58 Upscale Casual 4 62 Seafood 4 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Mexican 4 72 Barbecue 5 65 Casual Dining 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 74 Asian/Chinese 6 65 Casual Dining 2 78 Middle Eastern 2 78 Indian 2 65 Casual Dining 2 76 Asian/Korean 1 74 Asian/Chinese 6 74 Asian/Chinese 3 62 Seafood 6, 7, 16 74 Asian/Chinese 12 67 Home Style/Southern 13 67 Home Style/Southern 1 75 Asian/Japanese 16 76 Asian/Korean 12 58 Upscale Casual 2 56 Fine Dining 1 79 Mexican 11 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 79 Mexican 2 78 European/Spanish 2 79 Mexican 12 79 Mexican 15 79 Mexican 11 60 Bistro/Contemporary 7 61 Cafés 1 79 Mexican 2 61 Cafés 8 56 Fine Dining 4 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 76 Asian/Korean 12 65 Casual Dining 14
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Lemongrass Café The Lighthouse Lilly’s Limestone Lindy’s Little Caesar’s Pizza Little Chef Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Logos Coffee House Lolitas Tacos Inc. Lone Star Steakhouse Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Los Indios Mexicano Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky Dragon Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Magic Corner Bakery Maido Essential Japanese Mai’s Thai Restaurant Main Eatery Main Menu Main Street Grind Maker’s Mark Lounge Manchu Wok Mancino’s Pizza Manhattan Grill Manoosh’s Marimba Mexican Rest Mark’s Feed Store Martini Italian Bistro Master’s International Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Gypsy Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil’s Place Nero’s New Direction Bar & Grill New World Buffet New York Capri Pizza Nik’s Riviera Café Nord’s Brown Bag Deli North End Café O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Ocean Buffet Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olive’s on Fourth Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border On The River Dining Onion Rest.Tea House Oriental Express Oriental House Oriental Star 54 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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77 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 9 73 Bar & Grill 16 56 Fine Dining 2 58 Upscale Casual 5 67 Home Style/Southern 12 68 Pizza 6, 11, 12 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 74 Asian/Chinese 9 63 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 81 Coffee House 2 80 Mexican 12 63 Steakhouse 5 63 Steakhouse 6 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 80 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 80 Mexican 14 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 68 Pizza 6 75 Asian/Chinese 7 75 Asian/Chinese 4 68 Entertainment Dining 1 77 European/Italian 1 71 Sandwich/Deli 16 65 Casual Dining 2 68 Pizza 15 81 Desserts/Bakery 1 75 Asian/Japanese 2 76 Asian/Thai 16 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 65 Casual Dining 14 61 Cafés 14 58 Upscale Casual 1 75 Asian/Chinese 5 68 Pizza 7 65 Casual Dining 1 78 Middle Eastern 1 80 Mexican 2 72 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 77 European/Italian 8 81 Coffee House 11 65 Casual Dining 1 65 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 62 Seafood 4 71 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 11, 15 77 European/Italian 1 58 Upscale Casual 6 61 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 11 80 Mexican 13 73 Bar & Grill 1 62 Seafood 13 62 Seafood 8 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9 77 European/Irish 2 65 Casual Dining 2 63 Steakhouse 1 68 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 67 Home Style/Southern 13 61 Cafés 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 68 Entertainment Dining 12 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 58 Upscale Casual 3 67 Home Style/Southern 14 58 Upscale Casual 14 73 Bar & Grill 8 75 Asian/Chinese 8 68 Pizza 15 77 European/Greek 6 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 61 Cafés 2 65 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 67 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Irish 2 56 Fine Dining 1 75 Asian/Chinese 8 77 European/Italian 1 58 Upscale Casual 6 72 Barbecue 11 77 European/Italian 6 67 Home Style/Southern 1 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 78 Middle Eastern 2 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 65 Casual Dining 7 75 Asian/Chinese 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 75 Asian/Chinese 3 75 Asian/Chinese 12
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Osaka Sushi Bar 75 Oscar Brown’s Southbeach 60 Otto’s Café 65 Outback Steakhouse 63 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 58 Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Palermo Viejo 78 Panda Chinese 75 Panera Bread Co. 71 Papa Johns Pizza 69 Park Place Restaurant 56 Parrott Beach 58 Pat’s Steak House 63 The Patron 58 Paul’s Fruit Market 71 Pearly’s Seafood 62 Peking City 75 Penn Station 71 Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q 72 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 77 Petterson’s Bar-B-Q Barn 72 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Picnicaters BBQ 72 Pie in the Sky 69 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 72 Pizza Box 69 Pizza By The Guy 69 Pizza Hut 69 Pizza King 69 Pizza Place 69 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 63 Porcini 78 Portico 56 Primo 78 Prospect Fish Market 62 The Pub Louisville 66 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 73 Queenie’s Pizza & Such 69 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 71 R Place Pub 73 Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Rainbow Blossom 81 Ramsi’s Café 60 Ranch House 65 Ray Parrella’s 78 Red Cheetah Lounge 58 Red Lounge 60 Red Star Tavern 58 Rich O’s Public House 73 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 58 Rincon Latino 80 River Grille 65 Roadway Wings 67 Rockwall Bistro 58 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 72 Ruby Tuesday 65 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 62 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 63 Ryan’s Steakhouse 63 Saddle Ridge Saloon 73 Saffron’s 78 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Saint’s 73 Sakura Blue 76 Sala Thai 76 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Schlotzsky’s Deli 71 Scotty’s Ribs 72 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Shalimar Indian 78 Shane’s 65 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Shemroun’s Persian Grill 78 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 65
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Asian/Japanese 2 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 Upscale Casual 5 Pizza 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 3, 6, 8 Pizza [30] Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 1 Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Seafood 7 Asian/Chinese 8 Sandwich/Deli [11] Barbecue 12 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Barbecue 15 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Pizza 6 Barbecue 1 Pizza 8 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 European/Italian 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 14 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 15 African 4 Pizza 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Bar & Grill 12 Casual Dining 3, 8 Desserts/Bakery 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 14 European/Italian 2 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 3 Mexican 8 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 16 European/Italian 5 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 12 Barbecue 12 Casual Dining 3, 6 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 12, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9, 12 Barbecue 9 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Indian 6 Casual Dining 10 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 2 European/Irish 2 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12
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Sichuan Garden 75 Asian/Chinese 6 Skyline Chili 65 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Smokey Bones BBQ 72 Barbecue 6 Smokin BBQ 72 Barbecue 16 Snappy Tomato 69 Pizza [13] Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6, 8, 13 South Side Inn 67 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 2 Sportstime Pizza 69 Pizza 14 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 62 Seafood 3 Star of Louisville 68 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [11] Starving Artist Café 71 Sandwich/Deli 5 Station House Grill 66 Casual Dining 7 Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 73 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 Stoney River 63 Steakhouse 8 Strawberry Patch Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 68 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 71 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 73 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 61 Cafés 2 Sweet Surrender 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 73 Bar & Grill 12 Taj India 78 Indian 6 Tequila Mexican Rest. 80 Mexican 12 Teranga African Rest. 73 African 4 Texas Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Kitchen 76 Asian/Thai 13 Thai Siam 76 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 The Other Place 66 Casual Dining 2 Third and Main Café 61 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 61 Cafés 1 Thyme Café 61 Cafés 1 Tijuana Flats Burrito Co. 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 7, 8 Time to Eat Café 61 Cafés 2 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 67 Home Style/Southern 14 Tommy Lancaster 66 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 69 Pizza 2, 3 Tony Boombozz Pizza & Vino 69 Pizza 8 Tony Impellizeri’s Italian 70 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 72 Barbecue 5 Tran Japanese Steakhouse 76 Asian/Japanese 14 Trellis Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Trestle Sports Café 73 Bar & Grill 6 Tucker’s 66 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Twiams Chicken & Waffles 66 Casual Dining 13 Twice-Told Café 68 Entertainment Dining 7 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Two Guys and a Grill 71 Sandwich/Deli 7 Uno Chicago Bar & Grill 70 Pizza 11 Uptown Café 58 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 66 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 56 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 70 Pizza 12 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Whitney’s Diner 61 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 70 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Oats Market 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Willie’s Italian 78 European/Italian 13 Winston’s 57 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Woodford Reserve Grille 73 Bar & Grill 12 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 58 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 ZaZoo’s 73 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 57 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 55
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UNLESS NOTED OTHERWISE, ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE. ALL KENTUCKY PHONE NUMBERS LISTED ARE IN THE 502 AREA CODE, INDIANA PHONE NUMBERS ARE IN THE 812 AREA CODE. RED DENOTES AN ADVERTISER.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$
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e
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Average Entrée under $8 Average Entrée $9–$14 Average Entrée $15–$20 Average Entrée $21 & up Full Bar Outdoor Dining Live Music
211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. 211 Clover’s longtime manager Andy Smith now owns the place, but its upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this stylish spot in St. Matthews continue to rank it among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s distinctive, eclectic take on creative international cookery places his personal signature on every dish at this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant, which consistently ranks among the city’s top tables for food, drink and service. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Eclectic Victorian with tongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not overstated, this fine dining room on the ground floor of Old Louisville’s genteel old Mayflower Apartments combines a welcoming attitude with high-quality fare and atmosphere that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e
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CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bardstown Rd., 458-4830. A local tradition that helped establish Bardstown Road as one of the city’s “restaurant rows” a generation ago, Café Metro remains an upscale landmark; current Chef Michael Crouch continues to please Metro’s loyal fans. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Camberly Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same downtown landmark that our parents and grandparents enjoyed. Chef Joe Castro continues to win raves for creative, inventive (and expensive) fare that makes the Brown a major player in the downtown-hotel dining sweepstakes. $$$$ p
LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Chef Kathy Cary seems to spend as much time in New York City as she does in Louisville. As a repeat invitee to Manhattan’s James Beard House, she shares her Kentucky-accented cooking skills with the rest of the nation. Lilly’s combines style and Cary’s creative cookery to keep this landmark near the top of the city’s dining list. $$$$ p e THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Chef de Cuisine Todd Richards is finding his own voice at the Seelbach, adding innovative touches while he maintains the quality that has earned this elegant hotel dining room its four-star rating and status as a “must-visit” destination for visitors and locals alike. $$$$ p
EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Tucked away in a simple white-brick building, Equus is a block off the main drag in St. Matthews, but happy diners beat a path to its door. Very fine international cuisine, a stylish setting and first-rate service combine to make it one of the city’s top dining rooms. $$$$ p
PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. With Anoosh Shariat as executive chef and Jerry Slater as GM, the signature restaurant in Louisville Slugger Field has moved beyond its origins as a steakhouse to join the city’s top tier of upscale dining rooms. $$$$ p f e
THE FLAGSHIP 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. $$$$ e
PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and style bring a taste of Las Vegas to Metro Louisville in this pricey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the grounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high roller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p
KUNZ’S FOURTH AND MARKET 115 S. Fourth St., 585-5555. One of the oldest restaurants in Louisville, Kunz’s has moved over the years to several downtown locations. Its original German accent has muted with time, and it no longer ranks among the city’s top tables, but it still provides old-fashioned, hearty steaks along with seafood and more modern fare. $$$ p LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for the city’s top table, this stylish art deco spot beautifully uses a historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. It’s not just the city’s best French restaurant but a contender for best of the region. $$$$ p f e
SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. We’re delighted to see Chef Anthony Lamas back in business in the same location as his previous Jicama Grill, with few changes to the popular formula. Seviche, as the name implies, specializes in the Latino seafood specialty of fish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. But there’s much more, too, and this nuevo Latino spot remains one of the city’s best. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suavely professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and some trademark dishes
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prepared at tableside, Vincenzo’s owns a place as one of Louisville’s top tables. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Culinary arts students at Sullivan University staff this finedining restaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Several of the city’s top chefs got their training here. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that’s previously been hard to find outside the city. Armed with excellent, oversize steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience, Z’s thoroughly outguns the upscale steakhouse competition. $$$$ p
ARTEMISIA 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. As the bustling arts scene in this east-of-downtown neighborhood has blossomed, Artemisia has evolved right along with it. A favorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, Artemisia offers fare to please both vegetarians and omnivores, plus an attractive alfresco dining option in its enclosed courtyard. $$$ p f e
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CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. Tucked into a corner of a tasteful furniture shop, Café Emilie is worth a visit. This French-accented East End eatery is a recent and welcome addition to the neighborhood’s casual dining options. $$ f CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$ p CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Following a series of changes in leadership at this Highlands favorite, longtime Chef Michael New is back at the helm after a few years away. With New’s international bistro dishes and Club Grotto’s stylish and romantically dim environs, this sometimes overlooked spot is worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165. This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but Coach Lamp turns into a serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with well-prepared dishes from Chef Jerome Pope that range from down-home
favorites to pastas. With former Brown Hotel in the kitchen, this is a place to watch. $$$ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. If you want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining style, there’s no better destination than Jack Fry’s. This popular spot is always packed. It saves just a whiff of the raffish aspect of its 1960s-era predecessor, a local saloon, but upgrades it with creative American fare in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e
ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi, who has won diners’ raves and many culinary awards during Asiatique’s long tenure in St. Matthews, transplanted his innovative Asian-fusion restaurant to larger and even more striking quarters on the busy Bardstown Road corridor, where he has kicked things up still another notch. $$$ p f AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ‘n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. Chef Nathan Carlson presides over this stylish Bardstown Road spot, offering a fresh and creative bill of fare that presents American and international cuisine with a distinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the year. $$$ p f AZALEA 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 895-5493. Another of the city’s longtime favorites, Azalea delights with creative American and fusion-style fare whether you dine in or enjoy the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4285. The signature restaurant in the city’s newest convention hotel, BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. BLU is on track to join the city’s top tables. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery ... positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 100 E. Jefferson St., 540-3214, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a star on Louisville’s bistro scene since it helped kick off the Bardstown Road restaurant renaissance some 25 years ago. Old standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger are always reliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f
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JARFI’S BISTRO 501 W. Main St., 589-5060. The affable Jeff Jarfi is the eponymous host of this sharp, stylish venue in the Kentucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pre-theater buffets are attracting happy crowds. $$$ p JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. This old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation. From its cozy setting in a historic Buechel home to its down-home service to its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the restaurant business, keep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple formula with considerable success at Limestone, transporting the concept that brought them international culinary kudos at the Seelbach’s Oakroom with good effect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p
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NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141. Spanning California and the Pacific Rim, this starkly modern St. Matthews venue has earned its reputation as one of the city’s top tables on the basis of consistent, top-quality fare and excellent service. Innovative wine-country cuisine prepared with skill combines with a well-chosen, fairly priced wine collection that showcases the California wine scene. $$$ p f NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portico as the second high-end, fine-dining restaurant at Caesar’s Indiana, Nero’s complements Portico’s all-American steak-andseafood theme with a broader international menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. This historic stone building east of Louisville in Simpsonville, housed a popular restaurant for more than a generation. After a brief resurrection by Simpsonville’s sausage-making Purnell family, it is now under the management of Paul Crump, formerly of Porcini. Crump’s skills and the comfortably nostalgic atmosphere make this a hot spot. $$$ p f
MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Street Live, 568-9009. Under a licensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. The draw is a magisterial bar featuring more than 60 Bourbons, along with an attractive menu featuring traditional Kentucky fare $$$ p f
THE PATRON 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-1661. Viewed from the perspective of an evening meal, the Patron offers some of the best cooking in town. Chef Amber McCool offers a dinner menu that changes frequently, based on what’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $
MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p
P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. Surrounded by an immense buzz, this Arizona-based chain restaurant with a Chinese theme has been so crowded since its September opening that evening diners can expect a two- to
PARROTT BEACH Fourth Street Live, 589-5336. $$ pf e
three-hour wait. It’s a loud, happy scene with unchallenging Chinese-style dishes that may have been designed by a focus group, but to its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ p RED CHEETAH LOUNGE Fourth Street Live, 5890695. $$ p e RED STAR TAVERN Fourth Street Live, 568-5656. Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this new chain operation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Sometimes things come full circle, and sometimes we’re very glad. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell has returned to his original home, returning the name “Rick’s” to the first restaurant that bore his name. Look for the same familiar combination of excellent libations and upscale American fare. $$ p f e ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old rock-quarry location in scenic Floyds Knobs to offer an atmospheric eatery, with a creative menu that features a light Louisiana accent, and an interesting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the 15-minute trip across the Ohio for one of the metro area’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Across the street and a step downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except for the bar) offers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Restaurateur Laura Tao’s stylish
LO U I SV I L L E ’S G O N E MEDITERRANEAN. BLU is an elegant Downtown dining experience, offering sun-drenched Italian, French & Spanish cuisine.
280 W. Jefferson St. 502.627.5045
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downtown restaurant promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p
316 ORMSBY 316 Ormsby Ave., 637-9899. More than just another neighborhood café, this stylish spot in an attractive Old Louisville building offers a nice blend of comfort and sophistication. Ownerchef Tony Efstratiadis, late of Napa River Grill, shows his creative spirit here with a nicely balanced formula that’s plain enough for a quick lunch and fancy enough for a weekend date destination. $$ p f e ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the spacious heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot like a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmosphere (a railroad theme and airy patio in season) take it a notch upscale. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 8948838. Bourbon, Kentucky’s traditional nectar, owns a place of honor in Louisville eateries and watering holes that showcase its pleasures. Bourbons Bistro combines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Chef Chris Howerton’s bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f CAFÉ LOU LOU 1800 Frankfort Ave., 893-7776. Bright and bold and artsy, this Clifton neighborhood restaurant and pub offers Chef Clay Wallace’s affordable edibles from wraps and calzones to handmade pizzas among the best in town. $$ f DEKE’S MARKETPLACE GRILL 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. It starts as a downtown bar, a favorite hangout for lawyers and the Courthouse crowd, but Deke’s goes beyond the obvious to offer steaks, burgers, pasta dishes and more. The decoera architecture adds to the soul of each appetizer and entrée. $$$ p f DIAMANTE 2280 Bardstown Rd., 456-1705. Chef Mike Driskell, formerly of Club Grotto, has upgraded the old Diamond Station bar and moved it significantly upscale with this new concept, which features an eclectic bill of fare and trendy libations in an attractive modern setting. $$ f DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. With fresh and generous portions, I leave stuffed and happy every time I visit this stylish yet casual Highlands favorite. Chef/Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining scene— serves up fresh and generous portions from a menu that offers an internationally eclectic bill of fare that ranges all over the map. From Kansas City ribs and New England crab cakes to Thai chicken wings or Chinese burritos. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Street Live, 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine to rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 59
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HARPER’S RESTAURANT 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-2900. Harper’s draws a happy crowd of regulars with a large bar and big menu that offers a wide range of American-style fare, with management that takes quality seriously. Gourmet pizzas and fine libations are a specialty. $$ p f
OSCAR BROWN’S SOUTHBEACH STATION 252 E. Market St., 581-1222. Chef Nick Sundberg features an American bistro style at his casual-upscale restaurant in the increasingly active east downtown neighborhood. His menu showcases Caribbean influences from Cuba, Jamaica and Trinidad . $$ p e
JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p
RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funky and fun, this favorite spot of the Highlands’ Generation X crowd attracts foodies of all ages with its friendly setting, reasonable prices and well-prepared international cuisine. $$ f
JAZZ FACTORY 815 W. Market St. (Glassworks), 992-3242. Louisville’s restored Glassworks building makes a natural home for this edgy, stylish venue for serious, live jazz. Chef Jeff Jarfi’s eclectic and innovative fare offers an extra incentive for a jazz-filled evening. $$ p e L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 100 wines available by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f LA PECHE II Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 3397593. If you want to enjoy much-honored Chef Kathy Cary’s imaginative cooking without paying the prices at Lilly’s, this sibling spot is the place to go. $$ f LEANDER’S ON OAK 103 W. Oak St., 569-6981. Once an Old Louisville neighborhood market, this attractively renovated storefront is operated by restaurateurs Nick Layman and Amy Tuinstra, who bring experience in Chicago and Texas to bear in Old Louisville. The eatery offers Chef Charlie Owen’s eclectic American casual bill of fare with international accents. $$ p f
RED LOUNGE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 896-6116. It’s loud. It’s smoky. It’s slick and glitzy and fun. Red Lounge is a bar first and an eatery second, but the fare, a short list of gourmet pub grub, is very good. $ p f e
A LITTLE TASTE OF HEAVEN CAFÉ Watterson Trail, 297-8191. $ f
10320
ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ APPLEBY’S CAFÉ AND CATERING 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-3663. This café and catering business offers a variety of daily lunch specials plus gourmet coffees and a tempting array of desserts. $ f AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BEG FOR MORE CAFÉ 380-0085. $
8402 National Turnpike,
BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Europe. Its comfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3255 Bardstown Rd. (Quality Inn), 454-0451. This casual family dining spot in a motel complex on Bardstown offers traditional favorites that range from the Hot Brown to fried chicken. A menu of freshly made soups, salads, appetizers and desserts serves the light diner. $ p BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fe THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. Tiny but tastefully attractive, this little café is hidden at the back of a Victorian house filled with gift shops that share a quaint, welcoming ambience. $ f THE CAFÉ AT THE LOUISVILLE ANTIQUE MALL 900 Goss Ave., 637-6869. One of the city’s most attractive spots for antique and junque-shopping, this cavernous old factory building on Goss Avenue offers a similarly attractive place to catch lunch while you shop, offering a selection of competently made luncheon fare. $ CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. (see listing under Upscale Casual) CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dutchmans Ln. (Jewish Community Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center carefully follows traditional requirements to ensure fully kosher fare, Homemade soups, salads and wide-ranging hot entrées are available. $ f CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch often do so here, lured by an attractive selection of luncheon fare that ranges from soups and salads to tasty sandwiches ... and, it goes without saying, desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. Fourth St., 635-0222, 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f CUTTING BOARD CAFÉ 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 4239950. There’s a lot of potential in this East End storefront. The bill of fare is mostly sandwiches, panini and wraps, but they’re creative and generally well-made. $ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a restaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f DERBY CITY CAFÉ BY DALAL 3819 Bardstown Rd., 454-6160. Most of the dining crowd comes for the cream cheese and olive sandwiches, veggie pockets and Kentucky’s own Benedictine creations. $ DIEFENBACH CAFÉ 128 S. New Albany St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e DIXIE CUP CAFÉ 4637 Dixie Hwy., 448-6999. A welcoming spot on Dixie near the Watterson
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Expressway. Although it’s billed as a “gourmet coffee shop,” warming chili, soups and salads and alluring desserts make it a full-scale lunch destination. $ ERMIN’S FRENCH BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 635-6960, 723 S. Fourth St., 587-9390, 454 S. Fourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 2287210, 211 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. Founded by an immigrant baker from Bosnia who has since moved on, these popular bakeries still attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GARDEN ROOM CAFÉ 911 S. Brook St., 625-1900. Louisville’s historic Male High School has come back to life as The Spectrum Building, an office complex, and its onetime cafeteria now houses Gumby’s Garden Room Café, an attractive, casual American-style restaurant operated by longtime local caterer Phyllis “Gumby” Cornwell. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Goss Ave., 637-9412. One of the many old-fashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in Louisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e GOURMET GRAZING 9550 US 42, 228-0464. This Prospect Point eatery offers a variety of pastas, crab cakes, salmon, sandwiches and desserts for carry out from its well-stocked catering cases. $ f GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middletown, KY, 245-1569. Off the beaten path, the Middletown Historic District is booming with bucolic storefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the past. The Grapevine Pantry serves up homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, and a selection of cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Camberly Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The Brown’s casual café offers an alternative to the pricey and upscale English Grill. $ p LA PETIT PATISSERIE 1036 E. Burnette Ave., 6343004. A Butchertown landmark has changed hands as the old family-run Heitzmann’s Bakery assumes an upscale look and a fancy French name under new management. There’s a short sandwich menu and a remarkable collection of soft drinks, but the Patisserie aptly shines in the pastry department with its memorable desserts. $ LAZY JANE CAFÉ 2339 Frankfort Ave., 896-2230. It must have taken a long time to shovel out the colorful remnants of the very strange Me Oh My Jumbalaya that previously occupied this Crescent Hill spot, but the effort was worthwhile. Clean and bright, simple buttery colors, attractive art and white café curtains lend class to a tiny spot where you can enjoy a quality breakfast and well-made soups, sandwiches and desserts. $ f MAIN ST. GRIND 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 944-2326. $ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare ranges from good to excellent. $
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plus a bargain-seeker’s wine list. It’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $ f SWEET ‘N’ SAVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bardstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch fare with a vegetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Savory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $
Diamante
THIRD AND MAIN CAFÉ 220 W. Main St., 587-6171. $ f
Distinictive Dining... a Distinctive Neighborhood
THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233. One of my favorite places for a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eatery is attracting loyal crowds with excellent fare and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e THYME CAFÉ 711 S. Third St., 587-0400. This spicy eclectic café serves up big taste with special tuna, ham and chicken entrées and sandwiches. Fresh basil tomato soup with the BLT on grilled sourdough is a fast-rising favorite in the neighborhood. $
b a r & g r i l l e
Enjoy a Casual Dining Experience with Chef Mike Driskell and his staff in a unique atmosphere that has been a part of the Highlands for over 75 Years!
TIME TO EAT CAFÉ 1605 Story Ave., 583-0038. This familiar old Butchertown spot has been through a lot of changes over the years, from a simple, down-home cafeteria named Min’s to a bowlingtheme diner to a Greek restaurant and, briefly, the upscale bistro Fusion. Now it’s a cozy diner that reminds us more than a little of the comfortable old Min’s. $ f WHITNEY’S DINER 5616 Bardstown Rd., 239-0919. $ f
BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 3922 Westport Rd., 894-8947. In an East End neighborhood rich with seafood eateries, Carolina offers a tasty option within walking distance of downtown St. Matthews. This spartan little joint features shellfish and cod, much of it healthfully steamed, not fried, in an affordable family setting. $
Open Tues. thru Sat. 11:00 am - 2:00 am Sunday 5:00 pm - 2:00 am Serving Lunch...Dinner & Late Night
2280 Bardstown Road 502.456.1705
CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISH HUT 550 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 585-3474. If this trailer’s not fryin’, you’ll go away cryin’. Known for their fried catfish, the only thing missing from this little fry shanty is a pond out back. $ f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ f
MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigrant family from Eastern Europe, but the food is all-American at Mr. Z’s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $
THE FISHERY STATION 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligator. For the landlubbers there are cheeseburgers and fries. $ p
NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. This atmospheric Clifton spot in an artfully redesigned old shotgun house has become one of the city’s most popular spots, prompting a recent expansion and the addition of a full bar. The eclectic menu offers diverse tapas and interesting entrées,
JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The fake crab shack setting is bright, noisy and fun, and the servers keep everyone entertained. But the food is the bottom line, and I’m pleased to report that we’ve found the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 61
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SANDWICHES HOMEMADE DESSER TS STEAKS FRESH SEAFOOD PASTAS SALADS 12 BEERS ON TAP DAILY SPECIALS
Deke says, “Join us downtown for great food and libations!”
Celebrating 56 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.
Free Lunch Delivery Downtown Call for Delivery Area
THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road
■
895-0544
(Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)
601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474
(On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)
Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)
Corner of Third & Market 301 West Market Street • 584-8337 Dine In, Carry Out or Delivery - Outdoor Dining 11AM - 10PM Monday thru Thursday 11AM - 11PM Friday and Saturday Happy Hour 4 PM - 7PM Monday thru Friday
JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2902 Bardstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop, vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with decor and style so little changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper River Road and Riverside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f MAZZONI’S OYSTER CAFÉ 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A history that dates to 1884 makes Mazzoni’s one of the city’s longest-running restaurant acts. It moved from downtown to the suburbs a generation ago, but kept its historic serving bar and its urban feeling, with pub grub, cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-1235. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale, Columbusbased chain evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service has made this a popular destination, and everything we’ve tried here has been fresh and wellprepared. $$$ p f PEARLY’S SEAFOOD 6301 Upper River Rd., 2283625. The cozy old creekside quarters that long housed Bus Parson’s has received a make-over that gives the place an inviting Key West look. The menu has been kicked up a notch, too, with such goodies as conch fritters and bouillabaisse added to the familiar fried seafood and fish. $$ p f PROSPECT FISH MARKET 9521A US 42, Prospect, 228-6962. If you’re on the eastern edge of the metropolitan area, Prospect Fish Market offers good, affordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. Don’t care for fish? No problem: Choose chicken or other entrées plus two sides from its steam table, run by the former proprietors of Rollo Pollo. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’s, where the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perfectly prepared. I’ve never had a better fish sandwich anywhere. Watch for daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)
BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 288-2411. This independent-minded steakhouse is one of the metro area’s best values for expertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual sizes and configurations, but someone in the kitchen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling. The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Once ranked among the city’s top steakhouses, Del Frisco’s remains strong in its core competency. 62 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p DILLON’S STEAKHOUSE 2101 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy, 499-7106. Dillon’s has a distinctly different atmosphere from more pricey steakhouses, with its ski-lodge atmosphere in a historic Louisville home. It ranks among the most affordable quality steak dinners that the city has to offer. $$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin your way. Some of the city’s best ivory masters are at the piano to enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e FRANK’S STEAK HOUSE 520 W. Seventh St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-3383. A longtime north-ofthe-river favorite, this neighborhood steak house is known for comfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONE STAR STEAKHOUSE & SALOON 340 Whittington Pkwy., 339-9495. Lone Star rises above the median for franchised chain establishments on the basis of popularity and style and very friendly service, with decent grub amid Texas-style surroundings and country music. $$ p f LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350. Order your sirloin on the flat-top or pork chops on the char; also prime rib, baby back ribs and a complete line of chicken entrées. All dinners come with salad and potato choice. $$ p MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. The steaks are as good as it gets, the atmosphere is elegant without being stuffy, and the service is outstanding. Morton’s earns a solid three stars and ranks among the top tier of Louisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 2834329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I ate there last, I think I saw Ozzie and Harriet. A local favorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117, 816 S. KY 53, La Grange, KY, 222-1226. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-1748, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4711 Dixie Hwy., 447-4781, 636 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8520. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $
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STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy. 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (19 locations) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex) Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)
A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping Center specializes in breakfast and lunch. The fare is down-home and simple, at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES AT THE RAMADA INN 1041 Zorn Ave., 897-5101. Serving dinners only, the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p.m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and desserts. A steak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house. $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BENTLEY’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 5822241. Enjoy a Kentucky hot brown or the all-youcan-eat prime rib buffet on Saturday nights. Each day features a pasta dish, a hearty soup and salad bar, as well as favorites from the cutting board and grill. $$ p e BIG HOPP’S 800 W. Market St., 589-6600. A wide variety of family-style fare, from fettuccine alfredo to fried chicken, is dished up with friendly, welcoming service at this popular local spot, in the busy Glassworks district. $ p f BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3008 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Despite a mountain lodge theme that might make you think of the Colorado Rockies, this growing chain is based in Louisville. Upscale bar food and a sizable bar to match make these popular destinations. $$ p f BULL FROG GARDEN 5440 Del Maria Way 4990393. Another of Louisville’s hidden secrets, this family eatery in the Fern Creek area is popular with its neighbors and is earning a broader reputation for pub grub at reasonable prices, prepared with care and served in a friendly setting. $$ p e CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistrostyle fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 63
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memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 Veteran’s Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare, now adds a second property in Southern Indiana. $ p CHICK INN 6325 Upper River Rd., 228-3646. Now in completely new quarters rebuilt after a fire gutted the old building in December 2002, Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn is back, and we’re delighted to report that the new place feels much like the old. Best of all, the excellent fried chicken is still among the best in town. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p COY’S 4041 Preston Hwy., 363-2266. A change in management prompts a new name and spring cleaning for the old, familiar Longino’s Grill, but we’re counting on similar friendly service and oldfashioned comfort fare to maintain the popularity of this casual South End destination. $$ p f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526. The historic brick building at Fifth and Breckenridge Streets that housed the original Cunninghams for 131 years was destroyed by fire in 2001. But its new downtown home captures much of the nostalgia of the old, and standing-room-only crowds are just as pleased with its fish sandwiches and pub grub. $ f DEKE’S MARKETPLACE GRILL 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. (see listing under Bistro/Contemporary) DUKE’S GRILLE & BAR 4413. $$ p f
4004 Gardiner Pt., 753-
EVA MAE’S 6313 Upper River Rd. $ f FOUNTAIN ROOM AT THE GALT HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. This comfortable space features both buffet and menu dining. One price covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu often includes regional and contemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for more than 20 years. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht and potato soups and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100; 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194; 7701 Preston Hwy., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2189485; 941 East Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e JIMMY’S ON THE RIVER 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2500. The menu at this friendly bar and eatery features affordable bar food and munchies, but the fastidious may choose from the menu’s “Lighter Side.” Hearty meals at budget prices and a striking riverside view from two great decks makes for the quintessential moonlit night on the Ohio. $ p f e JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from
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THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e
KAELIN’S RESTAURANT 1801 Newburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 70 years, and their cheeky claim to have invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in fact. It’s faring well with no real changes under new ownership. $ f
RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p RANCH HOUSE 2611 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-9199. The menu and the retro 1950s decor hark back to the original Bob Colgazier’s restaurants that Baby Boomers remember fondly from days gone by. $ e
KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p
RIVER GRILLE 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. Gaze upon the lazy Ohio while enjoying an early bacon and eggs or enjoy a late night burger and fries. Casual and accommodating for guests on the go, the fast and friendly service awaits you on the second floor. $$$ p
SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 724 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-7979. Opened by a man named Sam some 16 years ago, the two locations feed an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood, steaks, pastas, salads, appetizers and desserts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p
LEGENDS AT CAESARS Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts from Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e
RUBY TUESDAY 5001 Shelbyville Rd., 897-0200, 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p
a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e JUKE BOX Highlander Point Shopping Center, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e
SHANE’S 1004 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9769. $ SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 9698904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview Village Center, 429-5773, 392 Dutchman’s Ln., 895-7578, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 9374020, 426 W. Market St., 561-9999. Louisville’s
LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447. One of the most popular places in town for brunch (and dinner too), Lynn’s Paradise Café lures happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor. Lynn’s sponsors the State Fair’s tongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp Contest, but there’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling food. $$ p MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Third St., 636-2511. A fine, family Louisville tradition, this familiar Tudor structure near the U of L campus is the state’s largest full-service restaurant and the city’s largest caterer. Serving lunch buffet Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA’S 2901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4939662, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-5229. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 properties with a steady formula of friendly service and casual-dining fare that ranges from specialty burgers, soups and salads to more weighty entrées. $$ p f THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, accompanied by good music, a relaxed ambience and exceptionally welcoming service. $ p f O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p ON THE RIVER DINING 1900 Victory Ln., 228-4359. Restaurateur-hosts Cherri and Rick Brown have taken over management of this familiar bargebased eatery on the banks of the Ohio in Oldham County (formerly Heather’s On The River), and they’ve throttled back a bit on the fancy fare in favor of old-fashioned down-home cooking. It’s still your rest stop on the water, accessible by land or by water as you please. $ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 65
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outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ STATION HOUSE GRILL 6000 Crestwood Station, 243-8334. The sign out front bears a new name and the menu is much expanded since this Crestwood favorite changed its name from Laine’s Latte Café. But its loyal clientele will be pleased to know that Laine Spooner still presides, and the bill of fare remains focused on wellfashioned family fare at affordable prices. $$ p STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fastfood chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, 2311 Lime Kiln Ln., 327-8443, Fourth Street Live, 5853577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f THE OTHER PLACE 1600 Bardstown Rd., 458-2888. $fe THE PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Street Live 569-7782. Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f
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TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. Value and variety are the strong points of this community tradition and the fare goes from burgers to lobster tails. Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café fare in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for peoplewatching. The extensive menu ranges from drinks to desserts, a club sandwich to a filet mignon. The Trellis also offers a popular and expansive Sunday brunch. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers, pastas and Mexican fare. $ p TWIAMS CHICKEN & WAFFLES 2517 Dixie Hwy., 775-0216. Former U of L basketball star Tony Williams now presides over Twiams, an attractive West End eatery that impresses the visitor with cordial service and quality fare. The name of the place pretty much describes the menu, which also features other soul-food favorites. $ TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast— whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The Villa Buffet offers an impressive choice of international dishes, with some 150 selections. A seafood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$
ANCHOR INN 1500 Evergreen Rd., 245-7121. Housed in the park-like setting of suburban Anchorage, Anchor Inn serves American home-style cuisine with an upscale casual style. $$ p f BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Now, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eastern Parkway not far from the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ COUNTRY KITCHEN 1506 Berry Blvd., 367-5995. Cafeteria style or dining room menu service: it’s up to you. This south end establishment serves up a variety of home-style food from sweet iced tea and biscuits to the country-fried steak and a fluffy mountain of real mashed potatoes and gravy. $ p f DE-VILLE’S 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 961-9102. De-Ville’s has made a science out of soul food, with collard greens, buttermilk cornbread, pork chop sandwiches and fried ribs. $ f DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ f D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 583-8015. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ GENNY’S DINER 2223 Frankfort Ave., 893-0923. What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genny’s, provided that you set your expectations for hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., 258-2540. Buffet style family dining—one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned
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comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOLLY’S LEGAL STREET CAFETERIA 715 W. Jefferson St., 584-4080 A longtime favorite of the Courthouse crowd, Holly’s steam table and grill consistently please, as does its full bar. $ p HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 326-9777, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This national chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-youcan eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 964-5749, 3353 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. Country cooking is Jessie’s specialty, with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Broadway, 772-7138. This tiny, colorful West End eatery, open for takeout only, offers a vast selection of filling, affordable urban fare that ranges from hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LINDY’S 5110 Preston Hwy., 964-6428. Open 7 days a week, this establishment is a local favorite for family dining. Variety is the key to Lindy’s reputation with buffet or full service menus available. Enjoy daily specials and down home selections from franks and kraut to steak dinners. $ MR. LOU’S COUNTRY COTTAGE RESTAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s country cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg, IN, 246-5456. Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken. Neil’s also makes excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. Fourth St., 588-9003. No matter what you’re hungry for, chances are Olive’s has it—from steam-table fare to pizza and calzones. Co-owners Linda Zeisloft and Vicky Wright bring long backgrounds at Sullivan University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f ROADWAY WINGS 708 Cecil Ave., 774-5543. $ f TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 Northwestern Pkwy,, 7765505. A rich and colorful history surrounds the century-old frame building in Portland that now houses the Toll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3133 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $
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WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. Webb’s is deli sandwich market style dining. Country ham sandwiches and the half-pound cheeseburger are a specialty. $
ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ COLONNADE CAFETERIA 455 S. Fifth St., 5846846. Sometimes cafeteria fare hits the spot, and this much-loved local landmark in the basement of the Starks Building has won a multigenerational crowd of loyal fans. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. Sequestered beneath the National City Tower, this thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, Mexican pizzas, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 583-2534. Jay’s modern, well-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of place on Hurstbourne Lane. Hungry diners from all over town find a warm welcome at this popular West End location that’s now run as a community-development program by two local churches. $ PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ SOUTH SIDE INN CAFETERIA 114 E. Main St., New Albany, IN., 945-9645. This venerable familyowned cafeteria is the very essence of cafeteria dining. Roast beef, fried Alaskan whitefish, spaghetti and meat sauce, pies chock full of fruit and old-fashioned vegetables come in huge portions for low prices. You’ll be hard pressed to spend five bucks here, and you’ll get a lunch or dinner that will leave you napping. $
BUFFALO CROSSING 1140 Bagdad Rd., Shelbyville, KY, (502) 647-0377. If you’d like to combine a day trip with a culinary adventure, consider a drive to Buffalo Crossing in Shelby County. This agricultural amusement park features a 500-head buffalo herd and an oversize dining room where you can give this healthy red meat a try. The food here is country-style and so are the friendly servers. $$ f DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes ... but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find it at Fourth Street Live, where this 4,000-square-foot club is now open on the ground level. $ p e www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 67
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JILLIAN’S 630 Barret Ave., 589-9090. Louisville’s outpost of the Boston-based billiard-themed restaurant concept, this big and noisy bar, food and billiards scene is housed under the towering concrete columns of a former grain elevator just east of downtown. Always filled with a happy crowd, it’s the place to go for casual food and fun. $ p f e JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY STRIKE LANES / FELT Fourth Street Live, 560-1400. An upscale bowling alley? A classy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian Foster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle retro and high-tech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. All aboard! $$$$ p
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salads, and Chicago-style pizza. If you prefer something more substantial, Bearno’s also offers spaghetti, marinara and meatballs. $ p CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 944-4942, 3093 Breckinridge Ln., 452-6700, 5226 Dixie Hwy., 448-8895. Serious bargainhunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat. This Dallas-based chain’s New Albany pizzeria, the first of 10 planned metro locations, serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. Clifton’s pizza appeals to me with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of my favorite local pizzerias. $ f e
HIGHLANDS TAPROOM 1279 Bardstown Rd., 4592337. This cozy nook for Bardstown Road music and microbrew fans features tavern fare and munchies, a full bar and thirteen beers on tap. Eclectic rock, folk and blues round out a popular and late night live music scene. $ p f e
LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr., 267-8600, 5622 Preston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ‘90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f
ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $
MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. A pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishment. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $
ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $
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FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f
IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$
TWICE TOLD PERFORMANCE CAFÉ 3507 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, 222-4506. An eclectic urban café in a village setting, about 20 minutes east of downtown in LaGrange. The casual menu lists sandwiches, fruits and veggies; daily soups and entrées. Live music every night—folk, spoken word, blues, jazz. $ e
BEARNO’S PIZZA 131 W. Main St., 584-7720, 2900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2222, 135-F Marketplace Dr., 957-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 267-2549, 1318 Bardstown Rd., 456-4556, 8019 Preston Hwy., 968-6060, 4105 Dixie Hwy., 449-4141, 9222 Westport Rd.,423-1224, 7895 Dixie Hwy., 937-1234, 1923 S. Fourth St., 6345155, 3002 Charlestown Crossing, 949-7914. Bearno’s is known for its Italian entrées, generous
FRATELLO’S PIZZA 735 Ewing Ln., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-1234. Family owned and operated, Fratello’s offers fresh, homemade pies. Tangy, spicy sauce and a chewy crust with a distinctly garlicky flavor define Fratello’s pizza; add points for warm and friendly hospitality $
IMPELLIZZERI’S 808 Lyndon Ln., 423-5770. Louisville recently mourned the loss of Impellizzeri’s on Bardstown Rd., which closed after a generation of vending the family’s memorable, heavily loaded pies. Happily, proprietor Benny Impellizzeri has returned to business in the suburbs, opening in autumn 2005 in this suburban location. $$
STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, roast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f
ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $
FIGARO’S PIZZERIA 16201 Eastwood Cut-Off Rd., 254-7220. So far out in the East End that it’s almost at the county line, this quaint little country storefront houses something just a bit more urban: an excellent pizzeria featuring both thincrust and delicious thick Chicago-style pies. $
HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555, 8442 Dixie Hwy., 935-3555, La Grange Square Shopping Center, 222-4444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$
STAR OF LOUISVILLE 151 W. Riverside Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 589-7827. The Ohio River cruise is the best thing about this Love Boat-style yacht that makes nightly all-you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f e
ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $
basic Italian-American pasta dishes add to the appeal of this casual, affordable spot. $$
MANCINO’S PIZZA & GRINDERS 12488 Lagrange Rd., 241-9902. Oven-baked and stuffed with all your favorites, a “grinder” is a one-step hungerslaying sandwich. The local favorite is the Mancino’s Pride, which is topped with every veggie in the kitchen plus ham, pepperoni and sausage. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZZA 6825 Central Ave., 243-1101. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGrange Rd., 339-8111, 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555; 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $ FAT TONY’S PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 339-3553. Formerly Brick Oven Pizza, Fat Tony’s has been attracting big lunchtime crowds to Plainview with authentic New York-style pizza, the thin-crust kind with oversize slices that you have to fold in half in order to make a mouth-size portion. Other
MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Preston St., 6356708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austinbased chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients—plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids—have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ NEW YORK CAPRI PIZZA 1503 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 284-1480. $ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 6756 Bardstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$
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PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$ PIE IN THE SKY 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-9988. This pizzeria offers up pies with fresh ingredients and hand-tossed dough. The selection of beer is wide and so is the TV screen for those weekend gatherings. Pasta, salads and sandwiches— including the popular Hot Sicilian—round out the casual dining menu. $$ PIZZA BOX 10331 Champion Farms Dr., 423-0530. Moved early in 2005 from its longtime, spartan quarters near the Ford Kentucky Truck Plant, Pizza Box now boasts more modern and stylish quarters in Springhurst. It’s still a popular gathering place, and the excellent pizzas are still a draw, even if they’ve cut back on the once imposing beer list. $ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-tossed dough. Come and get it, literally, because there’s only a cozy table for three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ QUEENIE’S PIZZA & SUCH 2622 S. Fourth St., 6363708. Queenie’s stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desires. An active participant in its neighborhood, Queenie’s often donates a percentage of its proceeds to church and civic programs. $ SNAPPY TOMATO (13 Locations) A growing Midwestern pizza-delivery chain based in Northern Kentucky, Snappy Tomato moved into the Louisville market this summer, taking over all the properties vacated in Pizza Magia’s demise. Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665. This tiny storefront in the city’s nightclub zone offers a tasty option for the wide-eyed-late-atnight crowd seeking good cheap eats; it’s open until 5 a.m nightly from Wednesdays through Saturdays. Better yet, it gives Louisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Phillystyle pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f SPORTSTIME PIZZA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but when the pizza biz is part of the New Albanian Brewing Company, the boast carries weight. The N.A.B.C. is the newest offshoot of Rich O’s, nationally noted for its huge selection of microbrews and hard-to-find imports. Try the “Herbavore” with spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic for a sizzling start. $ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ TONY BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & VINO 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 394-0000. Boombozz has taken its pizza concept to a new level with the opening of Pizza & Vino in Springhurst. The new www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 69
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“fast casual” facility features the award-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis with a well-chosen wine and beer list, in a a striking “urban loft” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale accent. $$ TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 Vieux Carre Dr., 4290606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but two Impellizzeri brothers still produce the family’s memorable pies in the suburbs. This strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$ UNO CHICAGO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0079. This successful franchise serves up Chicago style pizza—deep dish with more toppings than crust. Steaks, pastas, sandwiches and burgers complement the full service menu. $$ p VITO’S PIZZERIA 3213 Preston Hwy., 634-5400. Reasonable people can differ on the subject, but Vito’s fans say the sizzling, oven-charred pies at this downscale little place on Preston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all three of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p
AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carrots, bean sprouts, seeds and roots, think again. No animals were harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. Another Place, now in this west-downtown location, has been making good ones for years. $ ANTHONY’S 22 Theater Square, 584-0364. $ f BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ f BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $ BIG SUBS 9811B Old Third Street Rd., 933-2010. $ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 1971 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-6565, 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-5480. Sublime subs—fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ C.A.P.P.P.’S DELI 4010 Dupont Cir., 895-7064. $ CH¯ EBA HUT 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507. Spawned by a small but growing sub sandwich chain based in the Phoenix area, Ch¯ eba Hut’s slogan observes that “the only thing fried is an occasional customer.” The marijuana theme is so pervasive that it’s safe to assume this is the least likely place in town for actually scoring weed. $ f
DINO’S DOWN TO LUNCH CAFÉ 239 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. Third St., 584-8060. A downtown deli favorite. Daily specials are surrounded by an impressive variety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 245-3354, 216 N. Hurstbourne Ln., 394-0021, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2241 State St., New Albany, IN, 981-0124, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches—subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ EURO MARKET 12907 Factory Ln., 243-0000. It looks like a neighborhood convenience store and bottle shop, but when you get inside, it contains a delicious surprise: an appetizing service counter offers a variety of goodies to take out or eat in. Don’t miss the excellent fried-oyster box, as well as an intriguing selection of quality beers and fine wines. $ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI 6247 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. Small and spartan, this tworoom storefront in the newish Crestwood Station shopping center just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-style deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ GELI CAKES 1589 Bardstown Rd., 456-2466. It’s a delight to have this casual eatery on Bardstown Road. The specialty is Italian gelato, and it comes pretty close to the real thing. But don’t start with dessert; the panini are first-rate, and it’s also open for weekend brunch. $ f HEAVENLY HAM Northgate Center, New Albany IN, 941-9426. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $
pf
JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at Juanita’s counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $
CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $
JULIE’S OF JEFFERSONVILLE 326 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-0318. Located in historic downtown Jeffersonville, this eatery is known for its Reuben plate, tomato basil soup or any of the desserts that Julie creates each day. $ f
DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a
LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 949-7567. Every city needs a postage-stampsized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and
CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $
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handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $
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grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs, and burgers, in a joint that seems like a throwback to the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $$ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. As the name suggests, Lotsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local favorite since it opened over 20 years ago. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese. You can’t dine in, but an excellent deli counter fashions New Orleans-style muffulettas and other sandwiches to go. $ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit prepares its share of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bardstown Rd., 239-9997, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ f NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for hard-core “foodies,” with extra credit for friendly, welcoming cafeteria-style service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ‘70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ PANERA BREAD CO. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8999992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ PENN STATION (11 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $
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SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 4259 Outer Loop, 969-0506, 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 425-844, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich—“The Original”—when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325, 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2000, 9493 Westport Rd, 425-2549, 2930 Dr. William Weathers Dr., 774-2500. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354. Sharing space with the popular Ditto’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily known for catering and takeout fare. They cook just as well if you choose to stay in, though, offering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY PATCH DELI 11616 Shelbyville Rd., 254-1440. This Middletown deli offers healthy food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ TWO GUYS AND A GRILL Center, 893-5118. $
4806 Brownsboro
W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ WILD OATS NATURAL MARKETPLACE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-7373. This national natural-food grocery includes a sit-down café where you can order pizzas, sandwiches, or even sushi. $ f
BACKYARD BBQ & GRILL 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN., 945-8310. A wide variety of barbecue, in generous portions, with exceptional side dishes make this large dining hall in New Albany well worth a trip. $ f BAKE’S BARBEQUE 5427 Valley Station Rd., 9350999. Bake’s ribs are smoked to such tender perfection that the meat slides off the bone. This is four-star barbecue, fully competitive with the region’s best. $$ BIG BEN’S HICKORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q HOUSE 1331 E. Eighth St., Jeffersonville, IN., 282-9201. $ f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BOURBON BROS. BBQ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 8962486. A big black smoker signals a new tenant in the little white cottage that previously housed the www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 71
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first incarnation of Melillo’s, then Huttster’s Burgers. Bourbon Bros. BBQ vends well-crafted smoked meats including pork ribs that, on their best days, approach competition quality. An added plus is for interesting sauces including at least one that’s amply dosed with the eatery’s namesake booze. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666. Service is cafeteria-style in this shoppingcenter establishment featuring Tennessee-style barbecue, where hickory-smoked barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners are the specialty. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’s reasonably priced Western Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ CLEON’S RIB SHACK 701 Algonquin Pkwy., 6350750. It’s a shack, for sure, and Cleon keeps some weird hours, but that’s part of the mystique, and if you can catch him when the smoke is rising, you’re in for some manly spare ribs and soulful sides. $ f FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICKORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W. Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turkey legs, ham, half-chickens, pork chops and shredded beef and pork—all for dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 239-7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 327-6304, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2273. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that FireFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the premises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a former feed store with that down-home country feel, Mark’s impresses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Carolina barbecue sauce, the yellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip from anywhere in town. $ PEPPER SHAKER CHILI & BAR-B-Q 4912 Preston Hwy., 964-3011, 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 962-7077. Looking for the real thing in barbecue? Whoop! Here it is! This tiny spot near Standiford Field 72 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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offers few amenities—it’s primarily for take-out— but a squadron of heavy black-iron smokers burn through cords of hickory to turn out some of the town’s best barbecue at a price that’s right. $ p PETTERSON’S BAR-B-Q BARN 7705 Hwy 311, Sellersburg, IN, 248-9063. Another new and welcome entry in Southern Indiana, we’re reliably informed that this down-home-style barbecue eatery offers comfort food “as good as pocket aces and Texas hold ’em.” $ PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry business district. $ f PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 612 S. Fifth St., 584-4054. Genuine Texas barbecue, dry and tender meat, red-rimmed and savory from hours in the smoker, is the style served here. March up to the window, place your order, bus your own plate. No muss, no fuss, and it is very good. $ f RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A newish “concept” of the Orlandobased Darden chain that runs Olive Garden, Red Lobster and Bahama Breeze, this hot Hurstbourne spot offers good ribs in a noisy sports-bar environment that emulates a Colorado ski lodge. $$ p SMOKIN’ BBQ 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, New Albany, IN, 283-4061. $ f TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500. From the tomato tang to a smoky Blue Ridge savor, Roma’s advertises its ribs as the best dressed in town. Burgers, chicken and steaks are available as well, but we recommend the racks and baby backs of pork and beef. $$$ p VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), is moving from a Prospect storefront to the historic old Melrose Inn a mile or so out the road into Oldham County. Vince’s “cue” in this evocative setting should make a very good thing even better. $
BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2542322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 106 Sears Ave., 897-3725, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-8881, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment that will suit Mom and Pop and the kids too. $ BIG DAVE’S OUTPOST 1801 Bardstown Rd., 4593290. Now open in the old house at Bardstown Road and Speed Avenue recently vacated by Judge Roy Bean, Big Dave’s evokes a hint of the happy memory of the old Fat Cats that once held court here: In similar fashion, it’s a casual, laidback neighborhood saloon, where libations and simple pub grub are the order of business. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORTS CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’Connor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a
restaurant and sports bar. Riley died before their dream came true. But now O’Connor proudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jeffersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule.” $ p e BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f CHAMPIONS SPORTS RESTAURANT 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f CRIBSTONE PUB 1202 Bardstown Rd., 459-3339. This tiny Bardstown Road eatery turns a neighborhood bar into a lobster and steak house, where fine seafood and beef is served without pomp or circumstance in a setting so casual that you can wear your shorts and T-shirt to dine. $$$ p DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860. It’s not quite as historic as Gideon Shryock’s Jefferson County Courthouse around the corner, but this popular bar and short-order spot seems as if it has been a hangout for lawyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004. Do you like guitars with your grub? A popular half-way-home hangout for decades in the heart of St. Matthews, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136. Family-owned since 1952, Flabby’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’s top destinations for inexpensive downhome eats, from authentic German dishes to fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ p FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a Wichita, Kansasbased chain, Fox & Hound’s new free-standing property at Oxmoor Center features a “midcasual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large, classy venue with plenty of wood paneling, billiards tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 635-6475. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good
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variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 12205 Westport Rd., 327-8002, 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place in these friendly neighborhood spots where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f HOOTERS (see listing under Casual Dining) JABBER’S FAMILY SPORTS GRILL 6121 Bardstown Rd., 231-3687 $$ p JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 2882100. $ p THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-7916. This full service restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. One particular claim to fame is their hamburger menu. $ p
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VIC’S CAFÉ 4338. $ p
E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-
WOODFORD RESERVE BAR & GRILLE Louisville International Airport, 363-2526. Named after local distiller Brown-Forman’s artisanal brand of Bourbon, this is the airport’s fine-dining facility, serving Kentucky-style dishes in a sit-down environment. $ ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZoo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and welcoming neighborhood-bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub to cover quick bites like chicken tenders and a “pizza burger.” $ p f e
BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224. A must-stop destination for beer lovers on the national artisanal-brew trail, but it’s more than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both liquid and solid fare, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. $ p f e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0174. Making beautiful use of the historic red-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Browning’s offers first-rate brewpub beers and tasty, informal fare that ranges from pub grub to pastas, to pizza. $$ p f e
NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e
CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ f e
R PLACE PUB 9603 Whipps Mill Rd., 425-8516. A neighborhood landmark for 15 years, R Place used to be known mostly for its libations. But that was before co-owner Cres Bride’s wife Tiffany became the chef and introduced a hearty plate lunch, with daily main course and choice of two sides. $ p e
RICH O’S PUBLIC HOUSE 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 949-2804. Decent barbecue and pub grub make Rich O’s a popular hangout, and his remarkable beer list of more than 100 selections from around the world—and now locally brewed craft beers—attracts beer lovers from all over. $ e
SADDLE RIDGE SALOON Fourth Street Live, 5693507. $ p f e SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints—occupying the St. Matthews space formerly known as Jake & Elwood’s—features both a small, intimate, candlelighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. Saints is mostly about the bars and the music, but don’t overlook its casual fare, from salads to pasta and excellent pizzas. $$ p e STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2239 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old fashioned neighborhood tavern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar. Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ pf TAILGATERS SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Tailgating? No need to open your lawn chair on the Papa John’s Stadium parking lot before the U of L game now that Tailgaters is here. Billed as a premier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot features classic American favorites and seafood specialties, plus a full bar, TVs and an expansive game room. $ p fe THE TRESTLE SPORTS CAFÉ 263-7130 $ p
3701 Hopewell Rd.,
CAFÉ KILIMANJARO 649 S. Fourth St., 583-4332. Café Kilimanjaro showcases Black-heritage cuisine, offering well-prepared treats from Africa, the Caribbean and Black America ranging from fiery Ethiopian wots (meat barbecue) to spicy Jamaican jerk cuisine to the comforting soul food of the American South. $ p f CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1215 Gilmore Ln., 968-8659. Add yet another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s increasingly international dining scene. Friendly folks serve generous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa in this tiny (three-table) free-standing building at Gilmore and Preston Highway. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. Fans of Abyssinia, the Ethiopian restaurant on Frankfort Avenue, will be pleased to learn that Queen of Sheba is their old favorite, with the same owners and essentially the same menu, now moved to the small motel on Bardstown Road that formerly housed India Palace. New is an all-you-can-eat Ethiopian lunch buffet on weekdays. $ TERANGA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 458-7172. This bright and sunny new spot in Buechel houses very friendly folks who’ll introduce you to the culinary delights of West Africa. The sparkling venue is on the low-budget
side, but where else in town can you enjoy intriguing African dishes while watching Senegalese music videos on satellite TV? $
2 HAHN’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 493-0234. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. 2 Hahn’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these Southern Indiana buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords an alfresco dining experience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. It’s generally packed with students, professors, and a squadron of campus police so large that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA KING Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN., 923-1288. $ CHINA KING PALACE 6203 Old Shepherdsville Rd., 969-9696. On the edge of the county line, there’s a bustling kitchen that prepares sweet, sour and spicy Asian and Chinese entrées and a la carte items to go. Carry out service only. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 12689 Shelbyville Rd., 2450838. $ CHINATOWN 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 896-9888, 4214 Outer Loop, 968-2688. If you’re hungry, you can get more to eat here for less than just about anyplace else in town, and the weekend seafood buffet in particular is a deal that’s hard to beat. $ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHINESE RESTAURANT 8605 Preston Hwy., 9687450. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 73
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CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-8887. A standout among fastfood shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-0099, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buffet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868. The continuing proliferation of all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. Most of
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them look pretty much alike, and the food tends to be similar too. But I’m happy to report that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$
FORMOSA CHINESE RESTAURANT 2116 State St., New Albany, IN, 948-2540. One of the leading Southern Indiana entries in the Chinese-restaurant sweepstakes, Formosa offers a hearty buffet and, Chinese friends report, “a Taiwanese taste.” $
EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. Serving Chinese and American food from the menu or the buffet. $
GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $
EGGROLL KING 4819 Dixie Hwy, 449-3614. $
GOLDEN WALL 3111 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $
EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. A Highlands staple for good reason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk business. The Sesame Chicken is one of our publishers’ favorites. $$ p
GRAND BUFFET 5362 Dixie Hwy., 447-8833. $
EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $
tastefully exciting. casually chic.
GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ HAPPY DRAGON 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. Catering to office and residential customers, this Chinese restaurant has served the West Broadway community for many years. $ f HARVEST MOON 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Harvest Moon is a cut above fastfood Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $ HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ IMPERIAL PALACE 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 425-9878. When I’ve got a hankering for brunch, I choose Chinese. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. Operated by the owners of Wang’s Wok, another above-average Middletown Chinese spot, recently opened this charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventurous side with a selection of more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the growing niche of glitzy Chinese chromeand-plastic buffets, King Buffet offers a standard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes, with a few sushi items. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ KING’S BUFFET 5538 New Cut Rd., 375-2236. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. This new Asian spot in Middletown is much more than just another in the growing cadre of fast-food Chinese. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$
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LUCKY DRAGON 809 S. KY Hwy 53, Lagrange, KY, 222-1568. The pastoral setting of Oldham County surrounding the Day’s Inn Motel might not be the first place you would look for upscale Mandarin style dining, but prepare to be surprised. Guests are treated to Far East hospitality and a varied menu. $ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fresh idea on Asian dining, this generous Hikes Point buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ MANCHU WOK 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Shopping Center), 429-8207. $ NEW WORLD BUFFET 9228 Westport Rd., 4231788. I rate this one of the city’s best (if not quite the biggest) all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, not only because it offers a good selection of Chinese dishes but, more important, because it shows a consistent commitment to quality. $ OCEAN BUFFET 11300 Maple Brook Way, 425-9025. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the dozens of other Asian spots in the Louisville area. Beer and wine are available. $$
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Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $
BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $ FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back, sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p
ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building housed Benihana for many years. New management offers similar delights, with the traditional sliceand-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant is drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar, cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501. This bright and cheery Japanese restaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city and the home of one of its most historic
ORIENTAL EXPRESS 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 2449838. This spot in Middletown stands a cut above its shopping-center status in its atmosphere, and maybe two cuts above the median in its food, a smorgasbord of both Chinese and Japanese fare that is good enough to justify a special trip. $ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. One of the oldest continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a notch under new owners, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese. $ p
Come savor Chef Looi's
ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $
wildly
PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $
successful
PEKING CITY 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. The regular menu features Chinese-restaurant standards. If you have a yen for the exotic, see if you can get the authentic Taiwanese menu—an intriguing regional cuisine new to Louisville, but not always offered to non-Chinese. $
exotic Pacific Rim
QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $$ SESAME CHINESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not just another shopping-center Chinese restaurant, this East End eatery has provided some of the best fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. One of my favorite Chinese restaurants in Louisville and another that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $
fusion.
Featuring LOUNGE A + Late Night Menu ‘Hottest 125 Restaurants in the Nation’ - Bon Appetit
WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. This corner spot has housed a variety of restaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the most affordable. $
1767 Bardstown Rd.
WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-andoperated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $
SUN. - WED. 5:30 - 10:30 P.M.
502.451.2749
THU. - SAT. 5:30 P.M. - 2:00 A.M.
YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 75
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samurai castles. Sushi Chef James Lae presides, and that’s a good thing: a first-rate sushi chef, his welcoming presence and excellent English makes diners feel at home. $$ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue—direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. Trendy, even glitzy, with hard-edged industrial decor—and most important, excellent food—Sapporo ranks in my ratings as the city’s No. 1 spot for sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ TRAN JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 4317 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-0200. Southern Indiana is catching up with the Louisville side of the Ohio in its selection of Japanese restaurants, and Tran offers yet another estimable Hoosier option. Tran permits the more adventurous diner to experiment with the joys of sushi, while more cautious eaters can stick with tempura or enjoy the slice-and-dice show at the Japanese grill. $$
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KIM’S ASIAN GRILLE 813 E. Market St., 595-7025. This lovable little Korean and Pan-Asian eatery occupies unimposing quarters on a gritty urban block east of downtown. Despite its downscale look, you won’t want to miss its extensive selection of Korean and Japanese favorites. Hot and sour soup may be the city’s best. $$ f KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. This little spot has been a secret since the ‘70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$
MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai offers Louisville an upscale Thai alternative, presenting ethnic fare in a stylish setting that places it among the best, and certainly the most upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the
Hibachi Grill
MIDDLETOWN 12905 Shelbyville Road 253-0036 SPRINGHURST 3576 Springhurst Blvd. 339-1978 Over 50 Different Special Rolls Specials Changed Weekly
All Fish Flown in Fresh Daily
Steak • Seafood • Sushi Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2 Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10 Fri-Sat 4:30-11 New! Sun Noon-9:30 76 Fall 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
“Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ THAI KITCHEN 5203 Dixie Highway, 448-4710. The historic House of Chen, one of the city’s first and longest-lived Chinese restaurants, is no more, but you can still get its famous egg rolls and other Chinese specialties—and Thai goodies too—under new management that has brought the Dixie corridor its first local taste of Thai. $ THAI-SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Thai food—a fiery-aromatic cuisine that perches somewhere between China and India on the world culinary spectrum—is worth getting to know. This Highlands spot is Louisville’s first and oldest Thai eatery. $$ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of restaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has restaurants in Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana. The “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the five-chile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $
ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Café ranks not just as one of my favorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $
Sushi Bar
COME EXPERIENCE THE BEST SUSHI IN TOWN!
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CAFÉ MIMOSA 1216 Bardstown Rd., 458-2233. Dating back to the ‘80s as the city’s first serious restaurant in the French-Vietnamese tradition, its current management still offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as well as one of the city’s more interesting sushi bars. $ p LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 244-7110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple test: at the end of the meal, I must not miss meat. Zen Garden passes this test with flying wok and chopsticks. $ f
BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National Turnpike, 368-5658. This shopping-center storefront has become a popular after-work gathering spot for the city’s growing community of immigrants from Bosnia, for whom it’s a comfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ DJULI 5312 S. Third St., 368-5199. Bosnian fare is the specialty in this tiny spot in the increasingly international culinary smorgasbord at Iroquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $
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Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an assortment of beers may be traditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub, from the cheesy fries to the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e
BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Carrabba’s isn’t your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f
as comfortable as a close friend’s home. Friendly and unpretentious hospitality, the quiet but not staid atmosphere, and the fine Italian food prompts the comment, “They do everything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form in the Derby City. $ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. The American-accented Italian fare at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it’s good, featuring a short but diverse selection of hearty pastas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 829 E. Market St., 540-9975. Adjacent to the locally owned and operated Felice Vineyards on East Market, Melillo’s offers hearty and delicious home-style Italian-American fare—and you can enjoy it with a glass of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of a national firm that places its properties in renovated urban buildings, this favorite lights up the historic Levy Brothers’ department store. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p
COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p
THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190. The top property of the Orlando-based Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p
FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark for 30 years, Ferd Grisanti’s is
PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into
ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel family comes straight from Bavaria to Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic fare. The setting has as authentic a feeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$
NIK’S RIVIERA CAFÉ 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2611450. An ownership change apparently won’t cause much immediate change in this popular Greek-Mediterranean favorite in the far East End. They’ll lose the band but keep the weekend belly dancer, and the new owners will add a few more Greek dishes to an already expansive menu that includes a festive mix of Greek, Continental and American options. $$ e
IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. A warm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful place for a tall glass of Guinness, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I recommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Fall 2005 77
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this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular destination, a place to see and be seen—and, while you’re at it, enjoy a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and his most recent effort may be his best yet. Primo takes his Allo Spiedo concept and moves it upscale, with well-crafted Italian specialties from pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, served with panache in sleek new quarters. $$$ p RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-5575. Old-fashioned Italian-American family fare is served up with a warm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that’s been pleasing locals for a generation. $ f ROCKY’S ITALIAN GRILL 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. This longtime Southern Indiana favorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées, with a great view of the city from its riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 2669 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 9445400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. Initially the Louisville outpost of a Chicago Italian eatery, it’s now locally owned and operated, and seems to be hitting its stride with a broad range of Italian dishes and vino, suave service and a luxurious but comfortable setting. $$$ p f WILLIE’S ITALIAN 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $
DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. From Central Spain, authentic Castilian food ranging from tapas to a memorable paella make this Bardstown Road standby a unique experience reminiscent of dining on a square in Madrid. $$$ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez to provide an edible lid for your glass of Sherry. $$ p f PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only source of Argentinian cuisine. Steaks seared on authentic parrillada charcoal grills are a primary draw, but there’s excellent chicken, seafood and much more—plus an affordable selection of intriguing Argentinian wines. $$ p f
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BOMBAY INTERNATIONAL MARKET 1591 Bardstown Rd., 473-2077. The familiar landmark building that used to house the Bonnycastle Pharmacy has turned into an ethnic convenience store. Its all-youcan-eat Indian buffet may be the cheapest lunch you’ll find in the neighborhood. $ f e INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian restaurant, originally on Bardstown Road and now housed in this exoticlooking East End building that has housed a string of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. The expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good value. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this Indian restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of Indian dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $ p TAJ INDIA 9904 Linn Station Rd., 412-5579. This Plainview Indian eatery, popular with Louisville’s Indian community, attracts vegetarians and omnivores alike with an excellent selection of meatless dishes on a menu that also provides Indian meat, poultry and seafood dishes made in an authentic style. $
AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment that’s not unlike your neighbor’s kitchen—assuming that your neighbor is Arabic and a really great cook: That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ p f GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Yet another Middle Eastern eatery, yet another good inexpensive source of food on Frankfort Avenue. $ f KARMA CAFÉ 1126 Bardstown Rd., 587-0062. Rendezvous Café didn’t last long, but its Karma, evidently, has been reincarnated in this somewhat similar dining room. Karma Café, too, stays open late and offers a similarly eclectic meld of diner-style courses and Middle Eastern fare in a casually artsy and informal setting that fits right in to the busy Bardstown strip. $ f
SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Majid Ghavami, a veteran of Casa Grisanti and Vincenzo’s, has elevated this Persian (Iranian) restaurant far beyond a mere ethnic eatery. It transcends its location, a small urban-renewal building, with stylish decor, an intriguingly exotic menu, and a level of careful, professional service worthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. $$$ p SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. Another ethnic option joins the increasingly diverse set of lunchtime choices downtown. Yes, you can get standard American fare here, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SHEMROUN’S PERSIAN GRILL 2017 Brownsboro Rd., 896-1055. A delightful Persian (Iranian) restaurant that is far from pricey and not at all stuffily formal. Its well-planned décor, friendly attitude and excellent fare make it a welcome addition to the city’s growing cadre of quality Persian restaurants. $$
CRAWDADDY’S CAFÉ 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN., (812) 282-6561. Cajun favorites “with a twist” are promised at this Southern Indiana spot. The chef, a veteran of Simpsonville’s Old Stone Inn, should bring the culinary expertise needed to make this new entry a winner. $$ f DOWNTOWN NEW ORLEANS 1157 S. Second St., 797-5644. The smallish Old Louisville storefront offers a Cajun-style setting that’s worth a visit if you like the spicy goodness of Louisiana-style eats. $ f e FURLONG’S 2350 Frankfort Ave., 896-2610. This Louisiana-style restaurant in Crescent Hill boasts a horse-racing theme that unites the spirits of Kentucky’s and Louisiana’s racing industries. A comfortably cozy spot, it offers a memorable selection of Cajun fare. $$$ f p GUMBO A GO-GO 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046. This small eatery that sits well back from Frankfort Ave. gained a sparkling new personality that outguns a couple of lackluster predecessors in the space. Casually informal and very affordable, with all dishes priced at $5. We’re talking about serious Louisiana Creole and Cajun cookery, dispensed with a friendly New Orleans accent amid downscale Mardi Gras colors. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320, 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 9482080. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s, which now serve both ends of the metro area with restaurants in Plainview on the East side and New Albany, Indiana (as well as one in Lexington, Ky.). A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p
MANOOSH’S 558 S. Fifth St., 584-0004. We were sorry to see owner-chef Manoosh Khosrowshahi pull back from multi-ethnic dinner service, but this recently renovated downtown eatery remains a favorite place for lunch, with an intriguing selection of down-home and exotic dishes from all over the Mediterranean, including daily specials. $ f
BAHAMA BREEZE 104 Oxmoor Court, 423-9040. It’s a long way from Oxmoor Center to the Florida Keys, but this chain-operated eatery does a good job of bridging the gap, offering a happy beachjoint experience without the ocean view. Bahama Breeze is stylish and upscale, with a good selection of island fare and a great bar. $$ p f e
OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. No matter whether you pronounce it “Ghee-ro” or “Gyro,” you won’t be disappointed with the classic Greek sandwich served at Omar’s Gyro, a tiny Highlands shop with a simple, short and inexpensive bill of fare. $ f
HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Havana. Hosts Fernando & Christina Martinez and Marcos Lorenzo preside over this bright, inviting Cuban restaurant, recently renovated to double its dining space and add a hopping mojito bar. Bountiful servings of Cuban
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fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami have earned Havana Rumba a place on my short list of local favorites. Now with an expanded menu, there is even more to love. $ p f
BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2138. Bazo’s Fresh Mexican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f DON PABLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN 940 E. IN 131, Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Born in North Texas and now based in Atlanta, this 100-property MexicanAmerican chain, offers full bar service and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas with portabello mushroom, beef or chicken to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Preston Hwy., 969-9693, 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Highway 131, Clarksville, IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f EL NOPAL 9473 Westport Rd., 327-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 New Cut Rd., 380-8447. Associated
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with the same family that runs the smaller El Nopalito, (or “the little cactus”), El Nopal (“the cactus”) offers similar delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in somewhat larger and more comfortable surroundings. $ p f EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880. This modest little eatery used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family from Mexico, it’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f EL RESTAURANTE CHIQUITO 624 Cherry St., New Albany, IN,944-2660. $ p EL REY MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’s more Mexican-American than hard-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns my recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food environment, and affordable prices. $ f EL RODEO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-ofthe-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ p e ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 893-9297, 7707 Preston Hwy., 962-5380, 700 Riverside Dr., Clarksville, IN, 2800032. One of the first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the
crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ p JALAPEÑO’S 4430 Dixie Hwy., 448-5678. Jalapeño’s (Louisville’s first outpost of a Lexington-based mini-chain) is owned and operated by folks of Mexican heritage, but its fare and its flair make it comfortable for wary “gringos” in search of a mellow Margarita and mild, familiar Mexican food. $$ p e JUAN’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 3061 Breckenridge Ln., 451-2827. $ p KY TACO 6911 Shepherdsville Rd., 962-8526. Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ LA EMBAJADA 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-8775. $ LA HERRADURA 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN., 280-8650. Is it possible to enjoy truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English? These friendly folks make it simple: a handy bi-lingual menu and a smiling staff make you feel at home.$ LA MARIMBA 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-0201. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. You might run into a slight language barrier, but don’t
Indian Restaurant Come In and See What’s
NEW! NEW MENU! NEW PATIO! Interior Renovated & Upgraded! LUNCH HOURS: Monday - Friday ✦ 11:30a - 3:00p
Lunch Buffet: Saturday & Sunday ✦ 11:30a - 3:00p DINNER HOURS: Sunday - Thursday ✦ 5:00p - 10:00p Friday & Saturday ✦ 5:00p - 10:30p Take Out & Catering Available 1285 Bardstown Road (Across from Mid-City Mall)
(502) 473-8765
✦
473-2078
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be shy—Anglos are welcome here, and the staff is used to working through language differences. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ f
LOS AZTECAS “The Best Mexican Food & Margaritas in Louisville” 530 WEST MAIN
502.561.8535
Mon.-Thur. 11am-10pm • Fri. 11am-11pm Sat. Noon-11pm • Sun. Noon-9pm
www.losaztecas.net
CLUB SALSA Saturday – 10:30pm-4am 530 W. Main St. – 2nd Floor Los Aztecas Mexican Restaurant 502.561.8535
LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003, 9207 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS INDIOS RESTAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-9770, 730 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2929. “Why have Tex-Mex when you can have MexMex?” is asked in fun on the servers’ T-shirts. This eatery is well worth the trip to Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MARIMBA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 721-7200. At first glance, Marimba looks a lot like a lot of the other authentic Mexican eateries that have been cropping up all over town. But this new entry in the Moorish-looking building that recently housed Maharajah Indian—the first city outpost of a popular Shelbyville spot—may be just a cut above much of its competition. The expansive Mexican lunch buffet is a particularly good deal. $ p MAYAN GYPSY 624 E. Market St., 583-3300. It may have evolved from a mobile taco van, but Bruce Ucán’s high-style Yucatan and tropical Mexican cooking shows his creative genius in the kitchen: subtle and complex, sometimes spicy but never fiery, it is fully competitive in quality with the city’s best restaurants. $$$ f MEXICAN FIESTA 5414 Bardstown Rd., 762-0840. $
Authentic Mexican Cuisine
MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523. It’s a bit of a trip out to Pleasure Ridge Park for those who don’t live nearby, but this little neighborhood restaurant, one of the city’s longerestablished Mexican spots, offers good and authentic dishes. $ p e PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 970 Breckinridge Ln., 721-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Drive, 429-5151, 100 Daventry Ln., 412-6202, 8602 Citadel Way, 493-9606, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-9654. This chain operation boasts five local outlets plus more in Lexington and Frankfort. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f
459-7776 2427 Bardstown Road (across from Kroger)
Mon.-Tue. 11am-10pm N Wed.-Thur. 11am-11pm Fri. 11am-Midn. N Sat. Noon-Midn. N Sun. Noon-9pm
RINCON LATINO 2840 Goose Creek Rd., 425-4548. Truly authentic and ridiculously inexpensive fare attracts a largely Spanish-speaking clientele. This little spot offers one of the East End’s most appetizing Mexican options. $ ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria (and the tacos, in fact, are very fine), but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to
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satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 459-7776. Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of Los Aztecas eateries and the short-lived Olmeca’s, brings his brand of authentic Mexican fare to the Douglass Loop quarters that previously housed Steam Fire and Ice. Fans of Los Aztecas will find familiar food and mood here in the same affordable price ranges. $ p TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront, next door to a Latino grocery store. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ TEQUILA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 7803 Old Third Street Rd., 368-3591. $
ALAMEDA 1381 Bardstown Rd., 459-6300. After a brief sojourn into Northern Italy, reinvented as Mezzaluna Tuscan Grill, Alameda has returned in the face of what management calls “popular demand.” The familiar Southwestern favorites are back, and so is the casual feel, complete with attractive renovations. $ p f MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 12001 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6250. “Welcome to Moe’s!” rings the merry shout of staff whenever anyone walks in the door. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 412-2461. From Dallas-based Brinker International, the food-service chain that also operates Chili’s and the Macaroni Grill, this contemporary spin on traditional favorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to margaritas in a setting that emulates Old Mexico décor. $$ p f SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p TIJUANA FLATS BURRITO CO. 2420 Lime Kiln Ln. , 412-6700, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 339-2311. Another entry in the growing niche of “fast casual Tex-Mex” eateries, specializing in burritos made from fresh ingredients while you wait. $$ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (19 locations). Tumbleweed, which started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. But what started as a sideline, mesquite grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main draw. These days, diners are more likely to dig into a perfectly grilled steak and baked potato as into a burrito. With its new Southwest focus, large and varied menu and added wine list, “The Weed” still has diners returning in droves. $$ p f
ARTISAN’S COFFEE CAFÉ 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 4120360. In Glenview Plaza off US 42, Artisan’s offers fresh gourmet coffee espresso drinks, upscale teas and baked goods. Bring your portable computer and enjoy WiFi Internet access with your cappuccino. $ e
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ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 637-5399. $ BEAN STREET CAFÉ 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-6262. New Albany’s first gourmet coffee shop, Bean Street, introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, it’s not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout with an IUS flavor. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f CALIFORNIA’S COFFEE HOUSE 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620. $ f CLEO’S COFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ COFFEE BEANERY 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 339-0738. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170, 720 W. Main St., 5844932. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s Bardstown branch has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2827000. $ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545, 627 S. Fourth St., 540-9909. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ‘net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458. Said to be the Southern Indiana’s first retail source of fresh roasted coffee beans, HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 2910 Frankfort Ave., 893-6996, 9561B US Hwy 42, 292-2710, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Fourth Street Live, 561-2041, 4013 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3115, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f LOGOS COFFEE HOUSE 2250 Frankfort Ave., 8972272. $ f MASTER’S INTERNATIONAL COFFEE Bardstown Rd., 495-6484. $ f
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PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e STARBUCKS COFFEE (15 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTERY 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro—the result is Sunergos Coffee, another in the growing cadre of espresso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $
BAKELICIOUS 6915 Southside Dr., 363-9040. The region’s first Asian bakery, offering goodies that Chinese-American families have heretofore had to travel to Chicago to find, Bakelicious offers a bewildering range of baked buns filled with curry meats, hot dogs, omelets, barbecue and custard. $ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment—like the nearby Winston’s—is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. A recent renovation adds a touch of European style. The deli option is no more, but you can’t beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 9209 US Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen has enjoyed a local clientele in Prospect for years. Now a second location brings her sweet addition to the Highlands community, with elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $
Call 452-1210
HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MAGIC CORNER BAKERY 335 W. Broadway (Camberley Brown Hotel), 583-1234. Pastry Chef Brian Logsdon has opened this gourmet bakery on the hotel’s main floor, offering a variety of artisan breads, pastries and cakes during a fourhour window around midday. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 426-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin, a double chocolate with caramel and pecans. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ RAINBOW BLOSSOM BAKERY 311 Wallace Ave., 897-3648. Organic and vegan pastries, rolls, breads and cookies, all in the tradition of freshness, and healthiness. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1416 Bardstown Rd., 458-6363. Some of the city’s best desserts and pastries are available at this first-rate pastry shop. Debbie Richter-Keller, featured in Southern Living magazine among other local and regional publications, has a way with Belgian chocolate that every sweet tooth should experience. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in the lavendertinted quarters of this cozy little spot between Crescent Hill and St. Matthews. $
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Come out to any of our three convenient locations and experience one of Louisville’s finest dining traditions with our relaxing atmosphere, delectable foods and incredible list of fine wines.
1321 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY 40204 456 .1702 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. Louisville, KY 40227 426. 0627 614 W. Main St. Louisville, KY 40202 582.1995 Catering and banquet rooms are available at our Bardstown Road and Downtown locations.
www.bristolbarandgrille.com
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If it ain’t messy, it ain’t good!
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So the next time you’re craving a nice Bar-B-Q dinner, just bring your appetite and head to the Big Red Barn known as Petterson’s We Deliver! Open seven days a week Monday - Saturday 11am - 9pm Sunday 11am - 8pm 812-248-9063 7705 Highway 311 Sellersburg, IN
15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE
Mouth Watering Ribs Pulled Chicken & Pork Daily Lunch Specials
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Since 1982, our passion for teaching has produced some of the finest chefs, cooks, pastry chefs, catering professionals and hotel & restaurant managers in the country. With 100% graduate employment since the beginning, the ingredients are here for an exciting, rewarding career. Give us a call to see what we can do for you!
Information and Admissions
502.456.6505
3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205
800.844.1354 www.sullivan.edu
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