Winter 2010 (Vol. 30)

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WINTER 2010 | NOV - DEC - JAN

all about

cheese

PLUS Village Anchor’s grilled lamb chops with mint demi-glace atop wild mushroom Parmesan risotto.

profiles

900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

village anchor|coach lamp|sugar art $ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

www.foodanddine.com

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WINTER 2010 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SARAH FRITSCHNER BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES J. CHRISTIAN WALSH CONTRIBUTING CHEFS MIKE CUNHA MAC MCBRIDE JOSHUA MOORE BRUCE UCAN CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL M. SMITH IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

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Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 509-EATS (3287) or subscribe online at

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ON THE COVER: Village Anchor’s grilled lamb chops with mint demi-glace atop wild mushroom Parmesan risotto. (see story page 18) Photo by Dan Dry 4

Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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contents

WINTER 2010

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR) Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

FEATURES ALL ABOUT CHEESE

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Almost everything you need to know about cheese.

SWEET ART Executive Chef Joshua Moore crafts works of art out of sugar at the popular Volare Italian restaurant.

PROFILES THE VILLAGE ANCHOR Globe-trotting CEO steps back from corporate life and into a new Anchorage restaurant.

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COACH LAMP RESTAURANT & PUB A former neighborhood bar becomes a local dining gem.

52 82 24 34 18 36

COLUMNS

24 18

STARTERS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

SIDE DISHES Noteworthy restaurant and culinary news and happenings.

FROM THE EDITOR: Earthy salbutes are addictive Making the highly popular Mayan Café salbutes at home.

HUMOR: Me and TV Secret dreams of becoming a food television personality come crashing down.

LIQUIDS COFFEE: Gadgets, gizmos and gear All the latest gadgets to help you with your caffeine fix.

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COMINGS & GOINGS

CORK 101: Sparkling wines A guide to selecting the perfect holiday wine.

HIP HOPS: Tapping into the new arena A handful of new venues are now pouring well-crafted pints near the arena.

RECIPES EASY ENTERTAINING: Holiday on the grill Turkey on the grill solves so many problems it’s a wonder we haven’t done it before.

COOKING CLASS: Working with cheese Sullivan University chef instructors share four delightfully cheesy dishes.

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starters comings & goings

comings

& goings

If the ratio of restaurants opening to the number of restaurants closing were an economic indicator, analysts would have to conclude that the Louisville area was in an upswing. In the last three months, 38 new restaurant locations, some brand new concepts, some expansions of existing businesses, have opened or plan to open shortly. In the same time, ten restaurants have closed, but five of those locations quickly reopened under new ownership. In all, 22 of the 38 new restaurants have filled former restaurant locations. Such business optimism must reflect the continued or increasing desire – and ability – of Louisvillians to eat out.

OPENINGS The restaurant renaissance on the two Market Streets in the area, one in Louisville, and one in New Albany, Ind., will see more births. Matthew Antonovich and Michael Cooper, alumni of Casa Grasanti’s, are renovating the too-long vacant Primo space at 445 E. Market St., Louisville, into Mozz Mozzarella Bar & Enoteca. The ambitious effort on the edge of NuLu will feature an antipasto bar, fresh mozzarella made hourly in-house, and a wine bar.

Across the river, New Albany’s Market Street restaurant core lost Windsor’s, but that space at 148 E. Market has been reopened as Habana Blues Tapas Restaurant, which along with the opening of Cubana Restaurant, 2206 Frankfort Ave., Louisville, marks the continued emergence of Cuban/Caribbean food as the hot new ethnic addition to the area.

Working our way fur ther east out of town from NuLu, Majid’s St. Matthews will soon be opening at 3930 Chenoweth Square, where Majid Ghavami, for many years the quintessential host at Saffron’s and Volare, will try to work his magic at a space that has seen several other concepts blossom and fade. Out at 104 Oxmoor Center, in the former Bahama Breeze location, the Austin, Texas family fun-oriented Tex-Mex “unchain” Chuy’s has opened its largest outlet, striking a local variation on its trademark theme decor of Elvis memorabilia, hub cap-festooned ceiling and nacho bar in the trunk of a junked automobile.

Moving back across the river, Southern Indiana has welcomed a flurry of new restaurants. In addition to Habana Blues, New Albany has La Bocca, an Italian restaurant, serving in the former location of Connor’s Place, 132 E. Market St.; Irish Exit, an Irish pub and eatery is at 207 E. Main St. (formerly Studio’s), and Artesia Fusion Bistro and Catering operates at 133 E. Market St. In Jeffersonville, Curtis Rader, owner of Buck’s in Old Louisville, will be opening Cast Iron Steakhouse at 1207 E. Market St., the site of the original Rocky’s Sub Pub, across from Jeff Boat. Steaks and all the sides will be cooked in cast iron pans, Rader says.

Ethnic eating in the area will be getting a boost. In addition to the two Cuban restaurants mentioned earlier, Dejlah Bistro is serving value-priced Middle Eastern fare with an Iraqi twist at 4123 Oeschli Ave., site of the former La Catalana. Petra Mediterranean at 3904 Bardstown Rd., in Beuchel, also has a Middle Eastern focus.

The owner of Istanbul Palace on Goose Creek Road has opened 8

Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Istanbul Café at 1511 Bardstown Rd., bringing kebabs and thick, sweet Turkish coffee to the Highlands.

In Germantown, the owners of the hipster watering hole Nachbar have taken over the former Jockamo’s space at 983 Goss Ave., and opened Eiderdown, a European German bistro with a promisingly eccentric menu. We can’t wait to try the French fries cooked in duck fat.

Norton Commons, between Prospect and Crestwood, has seen the opening of Verbena Café at 10639 Meeting St. And out at 7895 Dixie Highway, Pina Fiesta Real Mexican Grill has opened.

The bar and grill category gets three new listings this issue, with Bungalow Joe’s at 7813 Beulah Church Rd., Corner Door Bar & Grill moving into the space once occupied by the briefly popular Pink Door at 2222 Dundee Rd., and Big Blue Country, 426 Baxter Ave., which will be the sports bar of choice for UK and Indianapolis Colts fans.

Two familiar restaurants are being resurrected with the same names, in the same locations, with new ownership, and, at least in the case of Carly Rae’s, a new concept. That space at 103 W. Oak St. in Old Louisville will reopen as a soul food eatery. Police Donuts, at 12416 Shelbyville Rd., will try to make the somewhat humorous concept (policemen selling donuts) work better with new ownership.

The Karem’s Deli site at 310 Wallace Ave. in St. Matthews has new life as DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub. And the former Amerigo’s at 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., has reopened as Brickhouse Tavern & Pub. Just before press time, and sooner than expected, Wild Ginger, set to serve sushi and fusion cuisine, has opened at the former Café Metro site, 1700 Bardstown Rd. New restaurants in new spaces include Mr. Pollo at 3606 Klondike Ln., introducing Peruvian-style baked chicken to the area; Naked Pizza at 139 Breckenridge Ln., introducing healthful whole wheat crust and gluten-free crust pizzas, with natural no-sugar added tomato sauce and real mozzarella cheese; and Smokehouse BBQ at 5414 Bardstown Rd., serves up good old-fashioned slowsmoked ribs, pulled pork, chicken and chocolate cobbler.

The opening of the new arena — oops! I mean the KFC Yum! Center — has several established local businesses thinking that perhaps basketball fans and concert goers might appreciate some nearby food and drink. To meet that perceived need, Bluegrass

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ICE CREAM. GROWN UP.

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www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010

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Brewing Company has remodeled a handsome, if noisy, two story space in the Kentucky Opera Building at 300 W. Main St., right across the street from the center.

A few blocks east, Original Impellizzeri’s has remodeled its own handsome space at 110 W. Main St. Sol Aztecas is renovating another historic space across the street at 129 W. Main St., next to Patrick O’Shea’s.

Wild Eggs opened its third breakfast, brunch and lunch outlet at 153 S. English Station Rd., a move that will likely lead even more quickly to their 2 millionth egg served. Spinelli’s will also be opening a third location, at 4001 Shelbyville Rd. Several restaurants have expanded into their second outlets. La Tapatia has opened another Mexican restaurant at 3022 S. Third St., Miss C’s, a charming little place in Butcher town, has opened a larger breakfast and lunch restaurant in the Henry Clay Building, 308 W. Chestnut, a space that formerly housed Road to Morocco.

Rumball’s Family Sports Bar has a second outlet at 10000 Highway 22, and Sunergos has expanded from Germantown into Beechmont, with a second coffee house and roastery at 306 W. Woodlawn Ave. Jimmy John’s now has its umpteenth

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(it seems) sandwich deli at 1116 Veteran’s Pkwy. in Clarksville and fans of Olive Garden’s corporate version of Italian food can find more of it at 4805 Outer Loop.

CLOSINGS The very funky Ray’s Monkey House Coffee Shop ceased operation at 1578 Bardstown Rd. Crabby Jake’s Fish House at 8435 Bardstown Rd. has closed. La Vida Java, in Westport Village is pouring no more.

The hipster vegan/vegetarian restaurant and performance space The Swan Dive at 921 Swan St. has closed. These four locations are shuttered for now.

Five other restaurants that have closed quickly found new owners ready to try a different concept. Pizz-A-Roma at 1511 Bardstown Rd., is now Istanbul Café.

Studio’s Grill, 207 E. Main St., New Albany, Ind. closed, and the Irish Exit quickly filled the void. Also in New Albany, Windsor Restaurant and Garden closed; Habana Blues opened soon after.

Five Points went the way of Rick’s, the Indigo Grill and other previous concepts at 3930 Chenoweth Square, but Majid’s St. Matthews will give the location another go.

Fans of the frickled pickle and the massive

Big Daddy burger were sorry to see Genny’s Diner succumb to legal wranglings over the adjacent property, but the owners of Comfy Cow ice cream shop in Westport Village bought both properties and plan to renovate both the diner at 2223 Frankfort Ave., and the deteriorating historic house next door.

Joe’s OK Bayou has closed its New Albany location at 4308 Charlestown Rd., but is still serving Cajun cuisine at the Linn Station Road location.

Three food purveyors have made strategic moves. Simply Thai has moved across Wallace Avenue to 323, to a larger space. La Rosita Mexican Restaurant has moved to a much larger space at 336 Pearl St. in New Albany. Cellar Door Chocolates now has its own space at the Butcher town Marketplace, 1201 Story Ave, but will still sell chocolates at Quills, 930 Baxter Ave, where it started in the back room.

And finally, Hanoi Café at 106 Fairfax Ave. realized that Americans’ short historical memory and dimness about world geography hampered customers’ understanding that the restaurant served Vietnamese food. It is now Saigon Café. F&D

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starters side dishes

side

dishes

Awards and Honors

Changes

Louisville wins honor as a food city Once again, Louisville ranks among Bon Appetit’s foodiest small towns, making the “runner-up” list for a third of three years, noted for being “bourbon producing, with a soft spot for Community Supported Agriculture. … And the scene just keeps getting better: The restaurant lineup continues to mature, and there’s a new generation producing artisanal foods.” Boulder, which was a runner-up last year, won this year’s “best.” Last year runners-up included Santa Fe and Asheville (winner was Portland, Maine). This year, runners-up included Big Sur and Traverse City. Maybe next year is Louisville’s year for top billing (see below).

Cellar Door Chocolates New Digs – Sweet!

Cellar Door chocolate fans have a reason to cheer. Louisville’s favorite exotic chocolate maker Erika Chavez-Graziano has opened her own shop in the Butchertown Market, 1201 Story Ave. The 1200-square foot space gives her a larger kitchen, but it also has 600 square feet of showroom to display her incredibly delicious wares. “I designed it to look like a jewelry store,” Erika says, with long glass cases. There’s also an espresso machine and a hot chocolate bar. That’s hot chocolate, not cocoa. Cellar Door puts six small pieces of delicious chocolate (milk, dark or white) into steaming milk and can season it with many of the spices that season the chocolates: cardamom, clove, nutmeg, cayenne, cinnamon. … So, if you want orange oil and clove in your hot chocolate, you can have it. Everything that Erika makes year round will be in the store, including the 55-percent dark chocolatedipped Twinkie that’s sprinkled with smoked sea salt that she gets from her neighbor, Bourbon Barrel Foods.

Edward Lee on Iron Chef With chefs like Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia, Louisville’s chances of being named the foodiest small city in the country isn’t that far-fetched. Lee, once noted for inspiring a 16-page spread in the late Gourmet magazine, is the second Louisville chef in history to be tapped for Iron Chef competition. Lee will appear in Kitchen Stadium at 10 p.m. Nov. 7 in a culinary throwdown against the show’s master chef, Jose Garces, who owns restaurants in Philadelphia and Chicago. Lee must use one ingredient in five different dishes and has an hour to prove himself. The first Louisville chef to appear on the show,Todd Richards, formerly of the Oakroom at the Seelbach Hotel, battled Cat Cora in 2007 and left Louisville soon after to open One Flew South restaurant in Atlanta.

21c Museum Hotel And excuse us for a lack of humility, but with 21c being selected as the best hotel in the U.S. and the sixth best hotel in the world in the prestigious Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards, for the second year in a row, why wouldn’t we move into the top tier of foodiest cities? 21c is the only U.S. hotel to be ranked as one of the world’s top ten hotels in the 2010 poll, beating out luxury brands such as Mandarin Oriental and Ritz Carlton.The rankings are based on the quality of rooms, service, food and dining, location and overall design. Sure, the hotel displays fabulous, ground-breaking art created by living artists, but Proof restaurant is no slouch either, with world-class braised greens and lamb shanks.

Baxter Station Meanwhile, Baxter Station, 1202 Payne St., receives kudos — no, not for its Rogue Dead Guy on tap, which is indescribably delicious — for its Bourbon list. The tavern-ish bar and restaurant received a gold medal in the 2010 “Great Whisky Bars of the World” competition in Whisky magazine, which, we think, should know a good whisky bar when it sees one. Baxter Station has demonstrated “outstanding presentation, promotion and knowledge of great whiskies from around the world.” The magazine called the local eatery “one of the jewels in the city’s crown of bars.” We wonder if Bon Appetit is listening.

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Marriott’s BLU has new chef Graham Weber has cooked for Bill Gates and President George W. Bush and now he’s coming to the Marriott Downtown to cook for Louisville. Weber, a Culinary Institute of America grad, has two James Beard dinners to his credit, and 15 years of restaurant experience in San Diego, Baltimore, New Orleans, Seattle and Atlantic City.

The Marriott’s new executive chef says he will use “local products from vendors, farmers and cheese-makers throughout the Kentucky marketplace” as much as possible in creating the menu for BLU, Champions Sports Bar and the special events held at the hotel.

Z’s Fusion In other chef news, Z’s Fusion has filled its vacant chef spot with David Scales, a chef from the Washington, D.C. area who graduated from L’Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda, Md. Cooking at the Cottage opens Fans of Campbell’s Gourmet Cottage kitchenware and cooking classes will be relieved to know that long-time employee Linda Kunz Bayens is reopening the store, now called Cooking at the Cottage, in the heart of St. Matthews, 3739 Lexington Road (the Vogue Center). “We will continue to carry the hard-to-find gadgets and items, coffee, tea, chocolate, baking supplies and equipment” Bayens announced in a press release. Cooking classes will also be held.

F&D News Free Subscriptions, sort of...

Back by popular demand — now when you subscribe to F&D for a year at $18, you get an $18 gift certificate to a popular local restaurant. An even better deal — subscribe for two years at $26 and receive $36 in restaurant gift certificates. You can subscribe online at foodanddine.com or call (502) 509-EATS (3287). F&D

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humor

BY JAY FOREMAN

Me and TV Like many food writers, I harbor a secret dream of being a food television personality one day. Unfortunately, also like many writers, I am cripplingly self-conscious and look weird on camera. These attributes tend not to play to the strengths of the medium, but I haven’t let that stop me. Because if a dude like Guy Fieri can leverage pretending that he enjoys eating scrapple into hosting a game show on a major network, I sure as hell should be allowed to have my own starter program on Food Network 2. Hell, I’ll even throw in the pitch for TGI Friday’s for free.

So far, my phone has not been ringing off the hook. Perhaps my imaginary sponsors are not a fan of my early television work when, for a few unfortunate episodes, I was a guest on the local New Orleans PBS program Steppin’ Out, where I represented New Orleans Magazine in my role as Food and Dining Editor. On this show, various personalities from the arts and entertainment community sit down around a table and have a few minutes to discourse on their areas of expertise.

The show is hosted by Peggy Scott Laborde, a lovely woman, who gave me a couple of workouts before never asking me back.

Before this show, I had never been on TV except once by accident when I was caught on camera by CNN drinking in Key West when I was supposed to be studying for college finals. I therefore had no expertise in this line of work, and it was confusing to say the least. First off, there were three different cameras, so I was never sure which way to look. There was also a monitor, a sort of reference TV, which would display photos of specific dishes.

These would serve as my cue to talk about them, so I was supposed to keep an eye on it as well. There was the requisite witty banter with the hostess. And there were time limits and legal considerations to keep in mind regarding solicitations for donations. That I had

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to wear a tie and go 30 minutes without swearing went without saying.

The big day of my first taping arrived. We went through the process in one long shot, no breaks. I felt pretty good about it. They even put makeup on me. It was the real deal, the big time.

I told family and friends about the premier, and excitedly curled up with my wife to watch it when it aired.

I was terrible. First off, since I never really knew at which camera to look, I keep swiveling my head around in different directions while every other panelist kept their gazes rapt and level on the hostess. When it came my time to talk, I forgot to pay attention to the monitor, so the dishes I discussed had nothing to do with the “cut-to” images in the screen. I was talking about braised short ribs while there was a picture of strawberry shor tcake.

When they cut back to my face, I l e a r n e d something about myself. Apparently, I have this habit of looking upward briefly while considering responses to questions. On TV this little quirk came across as if my eyes were simply rolling about it my skull, like a palsied cow. I think I was even rocking slightly in my chair for good measure. Thank god I did not engage in the witty banter, which would inevitably have ended tragically

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with a Monty Python quote, a Tolkien reference, or a terrible literary pun.

As the show unfolded, I became increasingly alarmed. “Do I really act like that?” I asked my wife. She kissed me, told me she loved me and that I did just fine, and that nobody watches PBS anyway, just as a photo of blackened redfish appeared while I illegally plugged a forprofit fundraiser.

After a repeat performance with similar results, I was never asked back on the show. I licked my wounds for the better part of a year, when I was surprised by an invitation to appear as a judge on an episode of Throwdown with Bobby Flay. Apparently, they don’t watch public television, either. This time I actually worked with a media coach, got some pointers, and when the episode taped I did fantastic, which is to say I did not fall down on camera, remembered not to pick things on my head, and kept my gaze firm and level instead of rolling my eyes around in their sockets.

Emboldened by this success, I recently worked up the nerve to approach a local TV station with the idea of doing a food segment for their morning news show. I figured it would go nowhere. Either I’d fail their background check or they would simply come across the notorious episode of Jay Forman’s “A Very Special Steppin’ Out” and I’d get shown the door. Imagine my surprise when the president of the station called me back for multiple interviews then set up a pilot taping. I think I did ok. Not fantastic, but respectable. As I type this I am waiting to hear back from them. Their decision will have enormous consequences for my self-esteem. Either they want to work with me, setting me on the road to my own television empire, or they don’t, dooming me to a lifetime of either AM radio or, god-forbid, print.

Please, not that. I can’t go back to just print. Not now. Once a man has tasted the forbidden pleasures of public broadcasting, he can never put that genie back in the bottle. So pray with me that I land this gig, lest I become some sor t of washed up publicity whore on the shores of cable access or, worse, Bravo. F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 15

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liquids coffee

BY DAVID LANGE

G

Gadgets, Gizmos & Gear Gadgets , gizmos and gear : The objects that make your obsession or passion so much more enjoyable and personal. If you ever came to my office or home you would see what I mean. Both are populated with various objects that identify my caffeine addiction and my quest for finding new coffee parapher nalia. So with the holiday season quickly approaching us, I thought I’d share some of the newest coffee gear that is available for coffee geeks and geekettes that would satisfy their caffeine fix.

A unique device that I’ve come across is Mypressi Twist. This hand-held espresso maker allows even the most novice barista to make surprisingly delicious, crema-topped extractions. And since it is portable, you can make great espresso at the office, watching the kid’s soccer match, or on that weekend camping trip. Just add ground espresso, hot water, and a CO2 cartridge to the unit and you’re on your way to that espressed elixir. $169, mypressi.com.

Another very similar apparatus is the Aerobie Aeropress non-electric coffee maker. Aerobie touts it as a “revolutionary” way to make coffee. I don’t know about revolutions, but the nifty gadgets have caused quite a stir. You simply add hot water and ground coffee, let the brew sit for ten seconds, then push down on the handle to force the hot coffee through a microfilter and into your cup. It takes 30 seconds from hot water to hot coffee, and produces a smooth cup of coffee that has even been praised

by Kenneth David of Coffee Review fame. $25.95, amazon.com.

In the same mode, the Handpresso is an import from France where they value romance. The Handpresso is a portable espresso maker that’s smaller than a bicycle pump. It has a hand pump that you manually prime. You build up the pressure in the pump, add hot water to the cup, drop in an espresso pod, screw on the cap and press the button to dispense the espresso into your demitasse. It’s a very cool, very high tech looking gadget that makes great espresso. $99.95, importika.com.

To accompany it you may want to look into a new portable ceramic burr grinder from Hario. The Ceramic Coffee Mill Skerton recently made its North American debut and I am really smitten with it. Quiet and easy to crank, with adjustable burrs and rubber-gripped bottom, this is the perfect portable grinder for coffee on the go. $48, shop.hariousa.com.

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If you’ve ever been to Italy, or stepped foot in an ItalianAmerican kitchen, chances are you’ve seen a stovetop coffee pot (aka moka pot) percolating away on a back burner.

Straightforward and easy to use, they brew in four basic steps: Fill the bottom chamber with water, add medium-fine ground coffee to the coffee basket, screw the upper body into the lower and place over heat. In minutes you have a seriously strong cup of joe. One of the newest and most user friendly is the Giannini “MediterraneaWood-Look”coffee pot. It has all of the requirements for a great moka pot, but it also has the option of making either 3 or 6 cups. Its polyamide handle and knob are heat resistant and is ergonomically designed for easy gripping and pouring (6 cup version shown). $67.95, chefini.com So you’ve got your espresso or coffee made, but what do you do if you want that rich and creamy cappuccino or a silky smooth latte and don’t feel like plopping down $4 at your local coffeehouse? Then bring out the Stainless Steel Stovetop Cappuccino Steamer. Get velvety milk with this stovetoppowered steamer, perfect for making frothy cappuccinos and macchiatos at home, or take it to the lake retreat for creamy, steamed milk on the go. $69.99, 1st-line.net.

When it comes to iced coffee, you want a silky smooth brew that’s both flavorful and refreshing, but conventional hot-brew methods can yield lackluster results when iced. To fill the niche, cold-coffee brewers are designed specifically with iced coffee drinkers in mind, but which one fulfills the promise of flavor-packed coffee? Which one can really keep its cool? The Bodum Bean Ice Pot is an iced coffee lover’s dream-come-true. Available in a wide range of colors, it is very easy to use and yields a flavorful and nuanced coffee that’s smooth, but with all of the mouthfeel and

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body of hot-brewed French pressed coffee. The lid locks into place to prevent spillage and it comes with a separate lid for overnight refrigeration. $39.95, bodumusa.com.

PHASE ONE PHOTOGRAPHY

For the ultimate cold coffee brew, you might want to make the investment for a Yama Cold Brew. Eye-catching design makes for a great showpiece, as it is intriguing to watch coffee brew through various glass components. The end result is smooth and balanced. $182, visionsespresso.com.

The But suppose you really need a quick hit of caffeine and you are nowhere near a coffeehouse. During those moments, when the human skull strains against its calcified architecture as if to pop, a cup of coffee — that magic elixir — is often the only thing keeping you from giving up on this mortal coil entirely. The option is to just reach into your pocket and pull out Le Whif Coffee Inhaler, the world’s first coffee inhaler. Each stick comes with about nine hits, each one-ninth the effectiveness of a single cup of espresso, and costs only $3 each, or a three-pack for $8. An asthmatic and coffee addict, I can’t think of any better way to get my hourly caffeine jolt than in inhaler form … save, perhaps, the venerable IV-drip. Lewhif.com F&D

Perfect Location for Every Occasion

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For reservations, call (502) 807-DINE (3463) 500 Fourth Street, Louisville, KY 40202

.TOL. 40153 Food Dining Ad.indd 1

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people and places profiles

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

The Village Anchor

I

How does a globe-trotting CEO with no kitchen experience become the creator of an instant, East End hotspot?

A conversation with Kevin Grangier, owner of the Village Anchor Pub and Roost.

“I’m not a foodie,” admits Kevin Grangier, the brains and wallet behind the Village Anchor Pub and Roost in Anchorage, Kentucky. The branding whiz who’s played steward to big accounts like Coors, ESPN and the “Got Milk” campaign, adds that he’s “pretty sure he never wanted to own a restaurant.”

Opening the Village Anchor, and adjoining Sea Hag Pub, may have been the furthest thing from Grangier’s mind when selling his majority stake in CarryOn Communications Inc., the branding and public relations firm he launched from a one-bedroom apartment in 1998. Though demure sounding labels like “boutique” have been used to describe CarryOn, the agency was in fact a multi-city operation that required Grangier to keep four residences — five if you include the airplane he seemed to live on.

At his busiest, the frequent flyer says he was traveling a couple hundred thousand miles a year. It was a pace difficult to maintain and the decision to ground himself was fast approaching. Near the end of his tenure in Los Angeles, Grangier appeared on the Bravo series “Millionaire Matchmaker.” The challenge for host Patti Stanger was getting Grangier, the show’s first gay single, to slow down enough to make time for dating.

During the episode, Grangier brings a date to Louisville. The couple take a relaxed tour of a Bourbon distillery and visit the antebellum manse in Anchorage that Grangier had been restoring for years. While spending time on the rolling acreage, one can only wonder if Stanger’s advice was beginning to sink in. Shortly after filming the show, Grangier resolved to make the home his full-time address.

Whatever business endeavor he embarked on next, Grangier would do it close to home, near family and friends. This was a giant step back from a corporate life that he describes as “frenetic.”

Trading busy for busy So, why a restaurant? Grangier agrees that the hours needed to run the Village Anchor are more than what he expected going in. He has, in fact, traded busy for busy — but not busy for busier.

This was important to Grangier, who has never shied away from a packed to-do list, but did want something that would keep him off of airplanes. He also says that the adventure of a brand new career is part of what pushed him toward the Anchor.

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The Village Anchor 11507 Park Road, Anchorage, KY (502) 708-1850 “It seems like my whole life, I’ve been driven by change and driven by unique experiences in different environments,” says Grangier, adding that he’s always thrived on new challenges.

The excitement that comes with diving into unfamiliar territory is a force that has pushed Grangier throughout his career. This is not unlike the founding of his PR agency. That pursuit also was no lifelong dream, but an example of the stars aligning correctly.

Grangier is a man who is motivated by research and opportunity, not whimsy — despite what some of the Anchor’s décor might

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Grilled local grass-fed lamb chops with mint demi-glace atop wild mushroom Parmesan risotto.

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(above, left to right) Patrons can choose from several dining areas — from the bordello themed bar that includes French paintings on the ceiling, to a cozy spot on the deck, to the large four-season lanai. (bottom right) Mom Myra-inspired hot banana pudding with mile-high meringue laced with a touch of rum.

suggest. (See the French Renaissance portraiture that has taken over the ceiling.)

Having been part of the community for six years, Grangier possessed an understanding of what was available in Anchorage, and what wasn’t. Recognizing a fine-dining void in this well-heeled township — a place he lovingly refers to as “Camelot” — Grangier soon discovered what he could “bring to the table.”

With no restaurant experience, Grangier leaned heavily on his marketing background. He peppers talk of his business model with marketing-speak, dropping terms like “deliverables” and “enduser response.” From day one, Grangier says he considered the client first and focused on the elements that motivate diners to go out and eat. Menu is certainly part of that, but the job of his staff does not end when food hits plate. An uncommon customer experience is a key goal at the Village Anchor.

And how are they doing? So far so good, says a recent LEO readers’ poll that’s recognized the Village Anchor as “Best New Restaurant” in the Louisville area.

“Kevin does a great job of staying in front of people,” says April Adams, the Village Anchor’s general manager. “He’s already collected 10,000 email addresses and we’ve only been open 20 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

for four months. He puts a lot into reaching out to customers.”

Another carry over from the CarryOn days was Grangier’s relentless test marketing. While designing the menu with Chef Geoff Heyde, Grangier conducted 27 focus groups before even building a kitchen. Hundreds were invited to early tastings, where Grangier and company collected thoughts on everything from banana pudding to stemware.

Grangier and Heyde’s approach was to learn the preferences of would-be customers rather than force their own program.

Grangier believes that by inviting this early input, a buzz was created around the Anchor. This is one reason they received over 200 reservations for opening week.

When asked about Grangier’s non-gourmand marketing approach to restaurant building, bartender Jared Schubert says he’s beginning to learn something about brand identity from watching his boss. With his own speakeasy somewhere on the horizon, Schubert says, “Part of Kevin’s genius is looking at an endeavor from the outside.”

The bartender could have meant this literally, gazing out onto the year-round patios and lanais that are featured on all sides of the building. Schubert points to the surrounding backdrop and

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mentions that Anchorage was laid out by the master park designer, Frederick Olmsted. The abundance of seating nestled in the scenery is no accident, and further indication that Grangier is trying to sell more than food here.

John Schnatter, founder of Papa John’s pizza company, was another influence on the setting. Schnatter holds a 6 percent share of Anchorage’s real estate and, in addition to being a frequent Village Anchor customer, is also its landlord and developer. Schnatter was responsible for adding the pocket of charming storefronts now found in the center of town. The Village Anchor is the centerpiece of this hub, a former train station that was refurbished and moved several feet in order to be a focal point.

Grangier feels privileged to occupy the spot, which he says was one of his motivators for starting the business. “(Schnatter) is very thoughtful about design and how it affects the community. I think everyone would agree that he’s had a tremendous, positive influence on our lifestyles.”

(above) Executive Chef Geoff Heyde, (below) sesame infused tuna tartare served in a lettuce cup surrounded by housemade fried wontons.

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Dessert First?

Listening to Grangier discuss the details of his restaurant, a sort of culinary autobiography comes into view. This is sometimes obvious, like the tributes to his mother’s cooking that are spread throughout the menu: Myra’s Fried Chicken ($15), for example. In other places, the pedigree of certain dishes isn’t specified. But when discussing the cuisine of his childhood, Grangier fixates for a moment on the Anchor’s fried bologna sandwich ($9). To everyone’s surprise, this has been the most talked about item on the menu and is mentioned in most reviews.

Grangier’s connection to the sandwich stems from his grandmother, who always kept a

few servings of biscuits and fried bologna waiting on the back of the stove.

“It’s a very visual memory,” says Grangier.

“Being able to find that any time of day, whenever I got hungry, became like a ritual.

Thinking of that brings me a great comfort level and makes me feel very, very happy.”

Grangier calls the Anchor’s bill of fare “emotionally random,” claiming that each dish holds some significance in his personal history. Random could also describe the physical layout of the menu, which favors flow over categorization. Appetizers and entrées go ungrouped. Offerings from various price points mingle, creating a page where a $30 plate might be flanked by a desser t and kid-sized grilled cheese sandwich.

The intent is to encourage unrestrained ordering options. The Anchor is the type of place where a dessert and appetizer can be ordered as an entrée and not be frowned upon by the house. Part of Grangier’s aim is to create the “I don’t know what I want” experience, meaning, he wants diners to want everything.

Helping him achieve this is an experienced staff that Grangier says has been instrumental in helping him navigate unfamiliar terrain.

“One of the joys of entrepreneurship is hiring people that I can learn and grow from, people I respect, who can show me how to work in a new world and in a new way,” says Grangier. “That applies to any business you can get involved in.You’re a servant in many ways, but also an educator and student.”

Chef Heyde is perhaps Grangier’s lead sherpa in all of this. Heyde first gained his boss’ trust years ago, catering events at Grangier’s Anchorage home. This position evolved into a stint as Grangier’s personal chef, who would set up last minute business dinners while his boss crossed the country.

Heyde never let Grangier down, so when it came time to staff the Village Anchor, one decision was obvious.

“She yam what she yam” Asked if the big city restaurants he frequented during his CarryOn days influenced the Village Anchor, Grangier explains that the spirit of West Coast dining exists in what he does today. You can see his Los Angeles years reflected in the layout of the restaurant, particularly the lanai, which is modeled on an open-sided beach house design meant to catch ocean breezes.

Grangier wanted to recreate the feeling he

got when walking into these places, and uses fans, heaters and other implements to offer al fresco dining year round.

The Sea Hag, which is based on some of the pubs Grangier encountered while in Europe, contains yet another bit of his personal history — hidden right there in the name. As an old fan of Popeye, Grangier is still moved by a quote he heard on the cartoon years ago, one in which Popeye delivers a message of tolerance and forgiveness.

“You have to tolerate people like the Sea Hag, so you can see the good in everybody else,” Grangier paraphrases. “I just always loved that quote. That’s where the name comes from.”

The line is delivered when Popeye discovers that the Sea Hag, believed dead, is still alive. The actual quote is something closer to; “I yam glad she ain’t dead, even if she is a extra bad woman. If there wasn’t no bad women, maybe we wouldn’t appreciate the good ones. Anyway, she yam what she yam!”

Always the brander Asked to concoct a pithy, three-word tagline for the Village Anchor, the branding guru responds before he can be instructed to take as much time as he needs.

“Expect the unexpected,” Grangier blurts out instantly. “If I get more comments about anything, it’s about the unexpected. Not just where the restaurant is, but what happens when you walk in the door. (We’re) in this very traditional community, what I refer to as Camelot. You don’t expect a bordello themed bar with red, tufted leather walls, French paintings on the ceiling, heavy velvet drapes.” The menu, too, is unexpected.

And how is Anchorage treating him?

Does Grangier ever pine for his former fastpaced life, or feel restless to begin a new endeavor in a different part of the world?

“I’m restless every day. It’s part of my genetic make up. I’m inclined to always look at new possibilities,” Grangier answers, as repeated message aler ts sound on his phone and go ignored. “Do I think I’ll be in Anchorage for the rest of my life? I think I will always be a part of this community and will always have my house here. But what lies ahead in terms of new endeavors is exactly what it was a year ago; I don’t know.

But the community has been so welcoming of me and my experiences, it tells me I’m in the right place here.” F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 23

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about food cheese

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

s ay

CHEESE ever ything you need to know about cheese

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C

Cheese hits a hot button deep within our brains.

Pizza’s aroma straight from the oven, macaroni and cheese, even a prosaic grilled-cheese sandwich can trigger a Pavlovian response in us, which fast food marketers try to exploit with huge television images of melting cheese.

Cheese is nourishing and comforting. Its protein punch eliminates hunger pangs and supplies energy to warm us and keep us active. It is perhaps the oldest food devised by humans that preserves protein, along with flavor and nutrition, beyond the seasons in which it is harvested.

Unfortunately, modern America has been awash for more than a half century in cheeses that bear no resemblance to what was common from Colonial days well into the 19th century — distinctive, flavorful cheeses typical of small batch production on family farms.

It wasn’t until 1851 that the first American cheese factory was started

by Jesse Williams in New York’s Oneida County. But in the following century, mechanization along with advancements in chemistry, biology, and concerns over food safety led to the near total industrialization of cheese making.

The result has been a surfeit of homogenized, processed, extruded, and vacuum-sealed cheese products which have a long shelf life but are also remarkably bland and without character.

Fortunately, a backlash is developing.

People are turning away from the products of industrialized agriculture out of concern about the ethical treatment of animals, carbon-intensive practices, and local economies and food supplies. There is also an awakening that demanding produce of all types all the time has led to anomalies like tomatoes without flavor and pitted fruits which are sold at baseball hardness and go bad without stopping at ripeness.

Local products are regaining the public’s attention and their high quality and variety of flavor is a desired option.

Farmers markets are booming today and they include a growing cadre of regional cheese makers who are ready to help us discover the original glory of cheese as something that tastes distinctive, has a history, reflects the geography and culture of those who make it, and is evidence of human creativity, craft and artistry.

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History Cheese making goes back literally thousands of years, probably to when sheep and goats were first domesticated. Egyptian records document cheese making easily goes back 6,000 years. The Basques have even raised a hand claiming the oldest European cheese, Ossau-Iraty, a flavorful sheep’s-milk cheese from the Western Pyrenees, which boasts a 4,000-year lineage.

One enjoyable legend has it cheese was discovered in a happy accident by an Arabian merchant who set out one day with a ration of milk in a carry bag made out of a goat’s stomach.The combination of warmth, jostling and rennet — an enzyme found in the stomach of suckling herbivorous mammals — changed his milk into a mass of curds floating in a thin milky whey. The liquid slaked his thirst and the somewhat sweet curds satisfied his hunger.

There is no doubt millenia passed in experimentation that developed a variety of yogurts and cheese styles in most regions of the world where mammals where domesticated or herded by nomads. As a result, even today there are cheeses made not only from the milk of cows, sheep and goats, but also buffalo, horses, camels, yaks and reindeer.

Without knowledge of bacteriology or chemistry, cheese making was at first a hit-or-miss affair. Successes were probably viewed as the result of almost alchemical craft and recipes where likely kept secret and passed down from generation to generation.

Instead of using Lactobacillus cultures, combining the evening’s milk with the morning’s ensured a natural culture that would acidify the milk enough so that rennet could get it to coagulate into a curd. Milk was worked at the body temperature of the animals and later, when temperatures were manipulated, the skin on one’s forearm served as a thermometer.

Not only was making cheese a way to extend the life of milk, it was also a way to increase the value of one’s animal husbandry. A vat of cheese commanded a higher price than a similar volume of milk. And cheese’s keeping powers also permitted one to both transport it to market and wait for a good price.

Many of Switzerland’s ripened cheeses with which we are familiar today — Emmental, Gruyere, Appenzeller — were developed using the flavorful milk from animals grazing in high Alpine meadows and aged for as long as villages or mountain passes could be snowed in during winter.

An Exotic Geography Though most cheese is a simple mix of milk (or cream), some coagulant, bacterial cultures, and perhaps a little salt, it can take on a multitude of personalities expressed in a diversity of textures, aromas and flavors. Varieties

(top) Capriole’s O’Banon, a fresh style goat cheese. (center) Will Eaves, cheesemonger at Lotsa Pasta, samples a new cheese with Kenny Mattingly (on right) of Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese . (left) Lotsa Pasta’s display of classic (and soon to be classic) American cheeses including a 6-year aged cheddar from Widmer’s Cheese Cellar, Roth Käse’s Moody Blue and Nancy’s Hudson Valley Camembert Square. (opposite) Eaves displayed a collection of his favorite European cheeses that include a Blue Stilton from England, Epoisses from France and Pecorino Toscano from Italy.

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span the spectrum from those fresh, mild cheeses with lots of moisture, to aged, hard cheeses that grate, slice and melt.

The different way cheese is manipulated will create the different varieties, and can add nuance that reflect the taste of the maker. A sharp cheddar, for example, is made with cow’s milk that develops its tang during an aging process during which temperature and humidity are controlled to allow bacterial cultures to change milk sugars into lactic acid. Make this same cheese with goat milk, and you have a markedly different product.

Manipulation of temperatures, if and how the curd is cut, how much whey and moisture is removed, whether the curd is molded by gravity or pressed into molds with weights, are factors that influence the texture, sweetness and acidity, and flavor of the finished product. Even the shape of the cheese can affect its end result.

Further diversity results from curing cheese from inside out or the outside in, from discouraging or promoting formation of a rind, washing it in cultures, treating it with wood smoke, or wrapping it in herbs, and a variety of techniques for sealing the resulting cups, bricks, rounds or wheels of cheese, raise the creative possibilities to dizzying heights.

There are even a variety of means to manipulate the curing process and final product by adding molds (like the blue molds typical of Stilton and Roquefort) and piercing the resulting cheese to permit oxygen to get in and stimulate their growth.

Enjoying Exploration As there are probably thousands of different cheeses on the planet, you will enjoy your journey more, and make discoveries

more quickly, if you find a guide. These will be managers of deli or specialty sections in larger stores or the individual responsible for cheese in smaller shops.

Bring your curiosity and ask any question, all your questions.

Like wine sommeliers, those who love cheese are generous with their knowledge and enjoying sharing information and their personal experiences. You will usually find them patient, enthusiastic and encouraging. And they will always let you sample a cheese before you buy it.

“There is no wrong way to eat cheese,” said Will Eaves, cheese manager at Louisville’s Lotsa Pasta. “People ask me whether they should serve it with bread or crackers and I’ll ask them, ‘Which do you like?’ (Indiana goat cheese maker) Judy Schad makes a Bourbon Chocolate Torta, which combines fresh goat cheese, chocolate, Bourbon, raisins, and pecans. I like to eat it with graham crackers and ginger snaps.”

Using wine experience as a model, you can learn to like cheese more as you train yourself to become sensitive to aromas, textures and density of the cheese. Notice how it comes apart in your mouth and the way the flavor is released, unfolds and finishes on your palate.

“The worst thing is to tell somebody, “You won’t like it,’ ” Eaves said. “Let them try. Half of it they won’t like but the other half will be a discovery they really like. I encourage people to branch out.

Don’t just put mozzarella on your pizza, try fontina. You’ll never go back. Also, meats and cheeses play well together. Try Red Dragon, a Welsh cheddar with whole mustard in it, on your cheeseburger, or a Cotswold (a double Gloucester with chives) and you’ll thank yourself. Don’t be intimidated. Just ask.”

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Artisanal Renaissance The best place to start a cheese exploration may be with the high quality cheeses that are produced locally. Artisanal, small batch cheese makers in Central Kentucky and Southern Indiana are producing cheeses that compete with national and world standards.

Three of them specialize in goat milk cheeses (Capriole, Sapori d’Italia, and Bleugrass Chevre) while others make raw milk farmhouse cheeses (Kenny Mattingly, Elvin Zimmerman, Cloverdale Creamery) and a third, the monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani, produce Trappist type cheeses with pasteurized milk.

Each of them is passionate about what they are doing and see it as a necessary part of the American food scene.

“This started with the back-to-the-land movement in the 1970s and 80s and some women who had goats,” said Judy Schad, local doyenne of goat cheese makers, speaking of people who were her inspiration. “Allison Hooper and Bob Reese at Vermont Butter ; Mary Keehn at Cypress Grove Chevre in Humboldt County, California; Laura Chenel in Sonoma.”

Schad’s children’s participation in 4-H led to her experimenting with cheese making in her kitchen until she became hooked.

“The French and Italians don’t drink goat’s milk but make wonderful cheeses from it. I wanted to make what I fell in love with, fromage de chevre,” Schad said. “After years of experimenting, when I decided to do it commercially, I went and worked with Lettie and Bob Kilmoyer at Westfield Farm in Massachusetts.”

She learned the craft well because one year later at the 1988 “Best of the Midwest” wine and food event in Chicago she struck fire.

“I was picked up by three distributors, Neiman Marcus, The Four Seasons and the Ritz-Carlton,” Schad said.

At her 80-acre Capriole farm outside of Greenville in Southern Indiana, Schad gradually built her herd of goats and continued to make the best cheese possible, winning American Cheese Society awards for her O’Banon (rounds aged in chestnut leaves macerated in Bourbon), Wabash Cannonball (small cheeses doublerinded in ash and white mold), and Mont St. Francis (one pound wheels of raw milk, cooked-curd cheese with a washed rind).

Today she produces 15 styles of cheese from a herd of 400 goats, has interns from around the world come to work with her, and still makes it to farmer’s markets to meet people and sell her product.

“Farmer’ markets have been huge in making us a success,” Schad said. “But this is happening all over the world. In France and Italy and England there is a revival of traditional cheese making as well as new and different styles being developed.”

Kenny Mattingly, of Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese in Austin, Ky. also found inspiration in Europe and saw it as a path which could save family farms from capitulating to the pressures of industrial agriculture.

“It’s no secret that small dairies are under assault in the modern market,” Mattingly said. “It’s either get big or get out.”

Mattingly studied farm policy as an organizer in the Community Farm Alliance in the mid-1980s and a later visit to Europe in the early 90s showed him two different paths to the future.

“We visited a young family with 30 cows outside of Amsterdam who were making gouda cheese and buttermilk,” Mattingly said. “The milk stayed on their farm until it was a finished product and they were adding to the area’s economy by selling it locally. They weren’t getting rich but they were doing well.”

During a later stop in East Germany, where agriculture had been collectivized in large, centralized operations, he had a realization.

28 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

“They’d have 1,000 cows in a dairy but they couldn’t feed their own people,” Mattingly said. “I was physically shaken, even nauseous — not from the smells but from the realization this was the direction U.S. agriculture was heading. I came back from Europe and hoped for two things: to save our farm and help other farmers think outside of the box.”

Starting in 1998, Mattingly put his intention to work and made 4,000 pounds of gouda that year. He branched out to craft a colby and a cheddar, but it was slow-going and he wasn’t sure of success when his mother suggested he go to a Louisville farmers market and hear what people were saying. “‘It’s not about the cheese and cows,’ she told me. It’s about the people,’ ” Mattingly related. “She was right. I came back greatly encouraged.”

Mattingly now employs eight people, and this year will make more than 70,000 pounds and two dozen varieties of cheese. The future of his 200-acre farm and 100-cow herd seem secured.

Storing and Serving You get a different cheese from cheesemakers than you do in the grocery store. In supermarkets, cheese has been sacrificed on the altar of modern convenience and is no longer an experience of a living food that can bring history, culture, and nourishment, to your table.

“I tell people, if you want delicious all the time, get cheese by the block and buy a grater,” said Christina Fleming, specialties manager at Whole Foods Market.

For storing cheese, she recommends “cool and dark; not damp.”

“Saran wrap is O.K. If it’s for 24 hours and then out the door,” Fleming said. “But for longer periods, parchment or wax paper is probably better; and put it in a Tupperware container to keep it from picking up other flavors or spreading its own in your refrigerator.”

“I also encourage people to not buy too soon,” Fleming continued. “If you’re having an event, don’t buy your cheeses until two or three days before, not two weeks.”

Eaves agrees, while adding some interesting details.

“The hard cheeses are already done. They won’t ripen, just get dryer and more salty. So, light and air are their dangers,” Eaves said.

“The younger, living cheeses — your orange washed-rinds, white rinds and blues — need a more balanced approach. Blues, for example, without air will suffocate and get bitter. Here, too, light will destroy enzymes and flavor.”

Just as you’ll notice a knowledgeable cheesemonger might trim a first layer off a block of cheese before offering you a sample, Eaves recommends, “cut the first slice and give it to the dog. The next slice won’t be bleached out or dried out.”

While cheese both cures and ages well at “cave temperature,” about 55 degrees, it is best served at room temperature, around 72 degrees. This suggests you select portions that will be eaten in one sitting by yourself or family or during your party. “‘Rooming it’ brings out the flavor, allows it to get softer, and will bring out the natural oils of the cheese,” Eaves said.

When calculating how much to buy to serve family and guests, the rule of thumb is about two to three ounces per person. If other foods are available, you can reduce it by an ounce or two. If not, the larger portion is safer and can be spread across a meal in an appetizer, salad, mixed with the entrée or enjoyed as a dessert with or without an aperitif.

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Guide to Cheese Types

Washed-rind (Epoisses – France)

Blue-veined (St. Agur Blue – France)

You can begin to make your way through the exotic geography of cheeses by remembering a few simple signposts and perhaps finding a friendly guide.

Classified by texture, there are basically four types of cheese: fresh, soft, semi-soft, and hard.

You can picture fresh, uncured cheeses at one end of a spectrum, like chevre or cottage cheese, and the solid, dryer varieties at the other end — Cheddars, Romanos, Parmesans — which when aged become hard enough to grate.

This spectrum also describes differences for mouth appeal, texture and density. You can both feel and taste the difference between a semi-soft cheese that unwinds in your mouth into bands of resilient curd and a dryer, aged cheese that melts on your tongue and leaves protein crystals that give you that wonderful crunch at the end.

Steve Jenkins, author of the popular Cheese Primer, suggests only seven major classifications, or families of cheese, if processed cheese (blended, re-pasteurized and sealed products) is left out of the discussion: Fresh — uncooked and generally unripened, usually moist and mild and pleasantly tart such as fresh goat cheese like Bleugrass Chevre’s flavored chevres, including garlic-chive, Bourbon smoked pepper and chipotle, along with its feta.

Soft-ripened and bloomy rind — exposed to mold so they ripen from the thin rind inward, like Capriole’s Julianna and Sophia, or Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese’s Awe-Brie.

Uncooked-pressed (Irish Porter – Cahill’s)

Fresh (Agri – Sapori d’Italia)

Washed-rind — usually immersed or washed while ripening with brine, wine, beer or spirits to introduce bacteria that tends to lend an orange hue, like Trappist-style, French Epoisses, Italian Taleggio, or Spanish Mahon.

Natural-rind — are more dense and usually aged longer and are not treated but create their own, thin rinds, like Tommes, Roncal, Lancashire and Stilton.

Blue-veined — have mold added to the curd and are aerated to stimulate its growth, resulting in a marbled interior, like Stilton, Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Cabrales.

Uncooked, pressed — are typically pressed to drain whey and create a firm texture, like Cheddar, Tomme de Savoie and Manchego.

Soft-ripened (Sophia – Capriole)

Cooked-pressed (Dry Monterey Jack – Vella)

Cooked, pressed — has curd heated before being pressed which affects aging and flavor, like Gouda, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Monterey Jack and Swiss types. www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 29

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2 1 5 4 3 6 7 9 8 11 10

An assortment of cheese from local artisanal cheese makers. From Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese the Gouda Bleu (1), Kentucky Bleu (5) and Awe-Brie (6). From Capriole the Mont St. Francis (4), Sophia (7), Julianna (8) and O’Banon (10). From Sapori d’Italia the Caciotta al Pepe Nero (2), Caciotta alle Noci (3) and Agri with coppa (11). All varieties can be found at Lotsa Pasta along with their house-made mozzarella (9).

Local Artisanal Cheese Makers Abbey of Gethsemani — Monks have been making a semi-soft, Trappist-style (Port Salut) cheese since the 1940s. Today, between prayers, they work with multiple dairy farmers and use modern methods to create four styles: mild, aged, smoked and processed with basil pesto. Their cheeses are available from the visitor center at the abbey off 31E south of Bardstown, or order by phone, 800.549.0912 or online at www.gethsemanifarms.org.

Bleugrass Chevre — Susan Miller got inspired during a tour in Vermont and is now one of the pioneers in the birth of Kentucky goat cheese at her farm south of Lexington. Her fresh chevre with garlic chive and feta are strong favorites at the Lexington Farmer’s Market and Good Foods Co-op. You can also arrange to pick it up by calling 859.421.6983. See www.bleugrasschevre.com.

Capriole — Judy Schad has built a national reputation and won numerous awards with her excellent cheeses made from the milk of her 400-goat herd outside of Greenville, Ind. A few of her wide selection of fresh and aged cheeses is available at the Bardstown Road Farmers Market, Whole Foods Market and Lotsa Pasta. For infor mation go to www.capriolegoatcheese.com or call 812.923.9408.

Cloverdale Creamery — Patrick and Leeta Kennedy have just begun making raw milk cheeses at the their farm in Spencer County near Taylorsville They use milk from Jersey and Brown 30 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Swiss cows. The cheese is aged in the farm’s cheese cave and packaged on the farm and then shipped direct to the restaurant, retail outlet or consumer. For more information, you can go to www.stonecrossfarm.com/scf_cheese.html.

Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese — A true Kentucky success, Kenny Mattingly makes 28 varieties of raw milk cheeses on his farm in Austin, Ky. And is proud the majority of them are consumed between Nashville and Louisville. Carried by many markets and specialty shops in Louisville, including Burgers Super Market and Creation Gardens. You can also order direct at www.kennyscountrycheese.com.

Sapori d’Italia — Naples native Giovanni Capezutto and brotherin-law Jason Gresham are encouraging new Kentucky goat dairies and bringing old world recipes to life in Nicholasville. From a walnut cacciota to an aged parmesan, their product is distinctive and excellent. Available in a variety of Louisville and Lexington markets or www.cheeseitalia.com.

Zimmerman’s Farmstead — Mennonite Elvin Zimmerman, who runs without electricity a class A dairy and inspected cheese house in Liberty, Ky., uses grass-fed cows in making his raw milk cheeses. Carried in local health food stores like Amazing Grace and Rainbow Blossom, his product is also available online at www.littlecheeseshop.com.

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starters from the editor

BY SARAH FRITSCHNER | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Earthy Salbutes are Addictive Mayan Café salbutes come with a var iety of seasonal toppings.

Black bean and goat cheese is a favor ite of restaur ant patrons; cochinita (slow roasted por k) is the favor ite of owner Br uce Ucan; butternut squash makes use of seasonal vegetables.

Salbutes is the Mayan word for “stuffed.” Smallish disks made with aromatic masa flour, they are not so much “stuffed” as they are topped with a myriad selection of nearly anything you can think of.

At Mayan Café, 813 E. Market St., owner-chef Bruce Ucan’s salbute toppings change seasonally, except for the black bean and goat cheese, which is always available. “People love black bean and goat cheese,” he says, accounting in part for the restaurant using 100 pounds of dried black beans every three weeks or so.

Summer salbutes can have squash on top, and tomatoes, fall might be mushrooms and chorizo. Fried greens work, so does seviche. Pork shoulder, simmered with achiote for hours covered 32 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

with a banana leaf, is Ucan’s personal favorite. He buys about 80 pounds of pork from an Indiana farmer every week. And one customer buys salbutes to take home and freeze, to use them later under his fried eggs.

It’s the base of the salbutes that make them so addictive.

Made of the same corn flour that corn tortillas are made of, they have an ancient, musky, ear thy flavor of corn that says “home cooking” to me. Salbutes have a smaller circumference than tortillas, and are a little thicker, but larger and thinner than sopas. “Salbutes are the signature main dish of the Yucatan,” says Ucan.

As we celebrate the holiday season, we will have access to all sorts of holiday foods that, for me (and I admit I’ve seen lots of

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holiday seasons), begin to wear on the palate. I always search for something that will give my taste buds a break — something fresh that doesn’t taste like everything else I’ve been eating. It’s a time I head to places like the Mayan Café where a set of soft salbutes topped with paperthin slices of butternut squash, a piquant pico de gallo and a few shreds of cabbage let my palate take a refreshing vacaciones from the holidays’ sugar and spice and everything over the top.

If you’re not quite so Grinch-like, you’ll find salbutes can play a major role in your holiday cocktail party, or dinner party. They are unbelievably easy to make. The masa flour is easily found in supermarkets, the dough is pliable and forgiving, you can make the disks ahead and freeze them, make toppings and sauces ahead and freeze or refrigerate them. Last-minute preparation requires frying the disks and topping them.

One trouble: they will be gobbled up in seconds. People love salbutes.

Every one of the 700 or so salbutes served by Ucan are handmade on the restaurant’s single tortilla press. They are stacked and frozen ready to be cooked when an order is placed. If you want a tortilla press you can buy them at Mexican supermarkets, or use the bottom of a flat skillet to press your salbutes.

Black Bean & Goat Cheese Salbutes, topped with pico de gallo and cabbage (ABOUT 40 3-INCH SALBUTES)

This is the same dough that Ucan uses to make his chilaquiles, which holds a vegetable filling between disks of corn masa.

4 cups masa flour (Maseca brand) 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 to 3 cups water 3 cups neutral oil for frying Pico de gallo 2 medium tomatoes 1 /2 white onion 1 bunch cilantro 1 /2 teaspoon salt Juice of 2 limes

Toppings 2 cups slivered Savoy cabbage, chopped 2 limes 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon olive oil 2 cups mashed black or refried beans 8 ounces Capriole or other fresh goat cheese Instructions Measure the masa, all-purpose flour and salt into a bowl. Add water a bit at a time, stirring (Ucan uses his fingers, spread wide apart like a claw), until it’s firm like pizza dough but soft and pliable. It should not be sticky, and should not crack when you press your finger into it. Cover dough with plastic and set aside.

Make pico de gallo by dicing tomatoes, onion and cilantro very small. Add salt and juice of two limes.

Place chopped cabbage in a bowl. Add juice of two limes, salt and olive oil. Stir and set aside.

To make salbutes: Cut the top and sides off a plastic sandwich bag to make two pieces of plastic (plastic wrap is not strong enough for making salbutes).

Make a small ball with the dough (about an ounce or the size of a walnut).

Place the dough between the plastic on a tortilla press or on the counter. Press with the tortilla press or the flat bottom of a skillet until the disk is about three inches wide and about an 1/8-inch thick. Repeat with remaining dough, stacking them separated by plastic wrap. Disks may be frozen at this point (do not thaw before cooking, just put them directly in oil).

Pour oil into a wide, deep skillet (or electric skillet) to about 3/4-inch deep. Heat oil. Add patties and cook about 30 seconds on each side. They will still be blonde.

Remove and set on absorbent towels.

Repeat with all disks or as many as you would like. Place a small scoop of beans on each salbute, then add a small scoop of goat cheese. Top with a teaspoon or so of pico de gallo and cabbage. Add hot sauce if desired. F&D

M AYA N C A F É | 8 1 3 E . M A R K E T ST R E E T | ( 5 02 ) 5 6 6 - 0 6 5 1 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 33

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about food edible art

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

The Art of Edible Art Being chef and co-owner of an Italian restaurant is not all about pasta and veal scaloppini, at least not for Joshua Moore, executive chef of Volare Italian restaurant, 2300 Frankfort Avenue.

For three years or so, Moore has applied himself to another passion, mastering the classical French pastry technique known as sugar art, made familiar to many of us by television host Warren Brown on his Television Food Network show Sugar Rush.

Moore melts, mixes, spins, blows and otherwise manipulates sugar and sugary products into fantastic shapes and gorgeous sculptures.

At first Moore spent his time crafting edible, lifelike roses and hollowed apples to accompany the desserts at the restaurant. But recently, he’s tried more elaborate sculptures that seem more appropriate for the Speed Art Museum than a fine dining establishment.

As of this writing, his most recent creation was “Fish Tank,” a still-life set inside an aquarium, which was displayed under glass in the Volare dining room.

“Fish Tank” was crafted out of 40 pounds of sugar using a variety of techniques: poured sugar, pressed sugar, blown sugar, bubble sugar, and pastillage, a sugar dough made with powdered sugar, that can be shaped, sanded, and airbrushed.

Taken together, the bright, colorful pieces looked like something out of a Pixar movie. The tank water was represented by large, blue bubbles of blown sugar. The sea life, which included starfish and snails, was made of pastillage and isomalt, a sugar product more stable than table sugar.

Sugar figurines were created for festivals as far back as the Ottoman Empire, and in France, dessert makers have a tradition of sugar art that dates back to the 1600s. Today, sugar artists often compete in shows created just for them. David Watson, a pastry chef and instructor at the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, has even held exhibitions of his work where the figures sell for $200 to $500 each.

Moore was initiated into the world of sugar art after he hired a line cook who had studied pastry-making in France. The cook claimed to have tried teaching 100 people before Moore, but only two mastered the craft. After only a few lessons, Moore was serving his edible roses with the tiramisu and filling hollow, bright-red sugar apples with pound cake and berries.

Even now Moore spends at least eight hours a week crafting edible garnishes because they don’t last a long time. Unlike his 34 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

show pieces, Moore uses only table sugar in the fruit pieces, and humidity will cause them to crystallize.

Moore said every time he touches the sugar he gets new ideas for future projects.

For a while Moore worked with a sous chef, Jeremiah Brown, who also made sugar pieces, but since Brown left Volare none of the other cooks have shown an interest in learning the sugar art.

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Moore said it takes not only dedication but willingness to get burned a few times.

“Over the past couple of years of working with sugar, day in and day out, I learned some tricks and found some new ideas,” said Moore. “It’s been a progression. I started out with this poured sand base. I had to have good sturdy base for everything to stand on.

It’s about an inch thick of poured sugar. The coral pieces are also different colors and textures. I didn’t draw it out, but in my mind I had it already envisioned.”

While technically “Fish Tank” is edible, the taste would be more akin to plastic than table sweetener. Moore, who spent 36 hours on the project, expected “Fish Tank” to last for four to six weeks and was already thinking of his next project: an apple tree with a poured sugar foundation, individually molded leaves, and

started out working part-time at Vincenzo’s when he was 14-years old. He was drawn to desserts because he enjoyed the creativity involved in decorating them. After graduating from Seneca High School, Moore got a job as a sous chef and pastry chef at Porcini’s.

When he was hired at Volare, it was originally as a pastry chef. But now he is executive chef and a part owner of the restaurant.

Moore plans to rotate his show pieces in Volare every four to six weeks. The average show piece takes him about 36 hours to make, which means that he sometimes works 80-hour weeks.

The colorful art is not the only change going on at Volare. The restaurant has half-priced bottles of wine in the bar where it is also offering cicchetti, a small-plate menu with about 30 hot, cold, fried, and flatbread pizza items that range in price from $4 to $9. Among the dishes are ravioli fritto, house-made ravioli breaded and fried

100 small, blown sugar apples. “I want to try to keep with the season or with some kind of theme,” Moore explained.

Sugar can be manipulated in a variety of ways. It can be blown like glass or pulled into shape. The fruit sculptures are made out of sugar with glucose, lime juice, and folic acid. The mixture is cooked at 300 degrees a day ahead of time and then allowed to cool on a nonstick cookie sheets. Moore takes bits of the sugar mixture off the cookie sheet and molds it into form keeping it pliable under hot lamps.

“In the beginning, it’s definitely something you need to work with everyday, you need to practice,” Moore insisted. “You have to get used to working with sugar and seeing how it reacts to the heat and the cold. It’s a dedication thing.”

The sugar art at Volare became more elaborate because customers took notice of what Moore was doing and requested more intricate pieces for themselves. One customer wanted a peacock on a cake. Moore used blown sugar for the bird and then pulled each individual peacock feather into form. From there it was only a short leap to start playing around with the sugar for his own pleasure.

Moore, 30, says in retrospect he can see that he has always had an artistic temperament in the kitchen. The Louisville native

with a roasted red pepper cream; and formaggio caprino, fried goat cheese served with a fra diavolo sauce.

Volare’s regular dinner menu is a mixture of traditional Italian dishes and some unique flavor combinations that Moore has come up with.The osso buco Milanese is a classic slow-cooked veal shank over saffron risotto. A personal favorite is the maiale (Italian for “pig”) an oven-roasted Kentucky pork chop, finished with an olive, white wine and butter sauce.

Moore’s passions appear to be paying off. He says that Volare enjoyed its best year in 2009 in the middle of the national economic downtown. The chef said the restaurant is on track to top last year’s results.

But Moore is not resting on his laurels. Last Derby he picked up ice sculpting from a friend and now he’s creating a new ice sculpture for the Volare dining room every Saturday night. The ice sculpture adds another two hours to Moore’s already busy work week, but it’s another element to make his restaurant stand out on a crowded culinary scene.

“I’m always trying to learn something new and add surprises for the guests,” Moore said. “The sugar art and the ice sculptures add a nice elegant touch to the dining room.” F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 35

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Germantown Pub Evolves

O

On his first day at the Coach Lamp Restaurant & Pub, Chef Richard Lowe took a cab to work. The driver was puzzled when Lowe gave him the address, 752 Vine Street, so Lowe quickly added that it was next to the Urban County Government Building. Finally the driver said, “I grew up here, I been driving a cab for 30 years, and I never knew that was a restaurant.” Five years later, Lowe is amazed that some Louisville diners still share the driver’s ignorance about one of the most unusual culinary delights in the Germantown-Schnitzelburg area.

“People still remember (the Coach Lamp) as a beer and shot place,” Lowe lamented. “It’s changed dramatically in just the last 10 years.That’s a message for whatever reason we haven’t been good about getting out there. Once we get them coming through the door we’re okay. The people that have eaten here know this is a good restaurant.”

Lowe was sitting in the front dining room of the Coach Lamp as he spoke. The dining room is chic with exposed brick on one wall, stylish lighting, paintings by artist Jay Goldstein, and two big picture windows letting in the morning sun. “When I bought the place, there were no windows,” owner Bill Darling chimed in as he was setting the tables for lunch service. “We’ve changed so much that I can’t remember all the things that we’ve done.”

The Coach Lamp has a reputation as a rundown bar because that is what it was for nearly 70 years. Dominick Maier founded the Coach Lamp after his Swan and Vine Bar was destroyed in the 1937 flood. Maier picked that name because the location was once a coach stop. For most of its existence, the Coach Lamp has been a place where a guy could get a beer after work, shoot pool, and listen to music. Darling, 59, bought the place in 2000 because he was looking for a change in life. The former engineer likes to joke that he bought himself a job, but he didn’t realize how hard it would be to change the culture of a local institution.

Coach Lamp “When I first started we had a jukebox machine, a poker machine, and pool tables,” Darling said. “When we served dinner we used to push the pool tables out of the way and after service we’d push the pool tables back. So, that’s all changed.”

For all of the cosmetic changes, the most drastic upgrade at the Coach Lamp has been to its menu, a mixture of traditional fine dining (oysters Rockefeller, roasted beef tenderloin) and Cajun-Creole dishes (crawfish étoufée, shrimp Creole). The Cajun-Creole dishes 36 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

(502) 583-9165 751 Vine Street

make up only 30 percent of the current menu, but they account for 60 to 70 percent of the restaurant’s sales.

“I know they call Kentucky the gateway to the South, but I was expecting more of a meat and potatoes crowd,” Lowe said. “The crawfish, it sells as well here as it does in New Orleans.”

Lowe said it is a constant struggle to balance his New Orleans influences and the desire of the regular customers for Coach Lamp favorites like the prime rib or breaded pork cutlets.

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Pork Calypso — roasted pork tenderloin marinated in dark rum, sugar cane and ginger, finished with a sweet chili sauce.

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

New Orleans Influence Rather than just adding more Cajun-Creole dishes to the menu, Lowe is putting New Orleans accents on some menu items. “I say food with New Orleans influence, but keep in mind that New Orleans was heavily influenced by other places,” Lowe said. “It was heavily influenced by the Caribbean cuisine, African, French obviously, and the Spanish. Jambalaya is just a New Orleans version of paella, really. One of the dishes I’m going to put on the menu is Shrimp and Grits, but we’re going to do it Cuban-style with Camarones Enchilados, which is shrimp with chilies in Cuba.”

Each day the Coach Lamp offers Red Snapper Du Jour. A future menu item will be a Pan Fried Red Snapper Filet with crawfish stuffing, string beans and scalloped potatoes. Another dish that is getting a makeover is the paneed eggplant medallions, which are currently offered as an appetizer. Lowe plans to make it an entrée with the eggplant medallions stacked napoleon-style with crabmeat and corn maque choux.

Lowe, 54, took a very unusual path to the Coach Lamp and cooking in general. The Houston native started out in the oil and gas business, where he spent eight years working for Exxon and

Chicken Pontalba — a fried boneless chicken breast served on a bed of diced potatoes, ham and mushrooms, finished with a Dijon mustard cream sauce.

then later his father’s company. “By the time I was 30 years old, I’d gone through three downturns in the oil and gas business,” Lowe explained. “The third one, my father was getting up in age and he decided to shut his business down. I decided I wanted to do something that wasn’t cyclical.”

Cooking had always been an interest for Lowe. When he was a little boy his grandmother would put him on a stool and have him stir the roux while she took care of other things in the kitchen.

When he was still in the oil business, he took private cooking classes at a gourmet store for the fun of it. After his dad shut down their business, Lowe took an entry-level cooking job at the Tchefuncta Country Club in Covington, Louisiana. On the suggestion of the general manager and club chef, he enrolled in Delgado Community College’s culinary arts program.

After graduation, Lowe worked a number of jobs in New Orleans. He was working on Bourbon Street at the Cajun Cabin when Hurricane Katrina hit. At first, Richard and his wife, Linda Franklin, relocated to Houston where they stayed with his sister and her husband. After two weeks, they both made a list of 10 cities where they’d like to live. On a Sunday afternoon they

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Pan-fried red snapper topped with crawfish étouffée.

emailed the cities that appeared on both lists. That Monday morning they got a call from someone at Greater Louisville Inc. asking what it would take to make them relocate to Louisville.

“The phone call really impressed us,” Lowe admitted. “In my research before we came up here, Louisville kept popping up as being a culinary Mecca. For the size of the city, you really have a diverse selection of cuisines here. I wanted to end up in a city that offered a lot of different stuff. You know, I didn’t want to end up in Lincoln, Nebraska.”

Lowe was at an interview at another restaurant in 2006 when the sales rep from Cisco, an area restaurant food distributor, heard the conversation. After the interview was over, the sales rep handed Lowe a card with the name and number for the Coach Lamp on the back. He said, “You need to go talk to these guys, they could use somebody like you.” Lowe called Darling the same day.

“Richard came with a very unique set of skills,” Darling said.

“He was just what I was looking for. The ideas fit. Our personalities fit.”

The partnership between Darling and Lowe has garnered the Coach Lamp a devoted following among local diners in the know.

They regularly draw diners from as far as Prospect and Southern Indiana. Business especially picked up in the summer when Darling added a spacious patio to the restaurant. But the Coach Lamp’s metamorphosis is just one example of the change that is going on all over the Germantown-Schnitzelburg area. One street over from the Coach Lamp, Baxter Avenue has developed into an

eclectic retail corridor that features two consignment stores, a gift shop, two high-end furniture stores, and three eating establishments. Further up Vine Street, a few blocks from the Coach Lamp, sits the Café, a restaurant owned by the same people who ran the Goss Antique Mall Café. Darling said he believes the area has the potential to rival Bardstown Road as a retail and culinary destination. He certainly feels Lowe’s food holds its own against big name fine dining restaurants in the Highlands like Lilly’s or Jack Fry’s.

A few weeks after I interviewed Darling and Lowe, I stopped into the Coach Lamp for a quick bite. One thing that has not changed about the Coach Lamp under Darling is the reasonable prices. The Seafood Platter was the only item on the lunch menu that cost more than $10. I asked my waiter what was popular and he quickly replied, “The Cajun food.” I settled on the Jambalaya, a savory blend of rice and smoked sausage served with either shrimp or chicken. I took the shrimp.

The steaming bowl of Jambalaya was a lot bigger than I expected and it had generous por tions of shrimp. My only complaint was that Lowe seems to have turned down the heat to fit the local palette. I like to feel a little burn. After a few dashes of Louisiana Hot Sauce, I was eating away as I watched CNN on the bar’s large television. Fully satisfied, I took home leftovers to eat later that night. My wife and I are already planning our next visit to the Coach Lamp. As Darling said, “The customers we have are pretty loyal. They keep coming back, so we’re doing something right.” F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 39

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easy entertaining holiday party

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Holiday on the Grill Turkey on the grill solves so many problems it’s a wonder we haven’t done it forever. Not enough room in the kitchen, much less the oven? Trot the turkey outside to roast on the back patio and free your oven space for side dishes, pies and rolls.

Amazingly, when turkey takes its place on the grill, guys who might not feel comfortable in a crowded kitchen will take responsibility for a part of the meal that the main cook no longer has to worry about.

Oven cooking doesn’t do much to enhance the turkey’s flavor, which often leaves it the least interesting part of the meal. Grill cooking turkey transforms its flavor in November just as it does chicken breast in July.

Perhaps people don’t think of cooking turkey outside because in the past there were too many variables with the old charcoal grill.

We didn’t feel confident.

These days, gas grills take all the guesswork out of cooking, equipped with thermostats and thermometers.

If you are working with a grill that doesn’t have these modern tools, partially close the vents to regulate the heat and insert the stem of a meat thermometer in one of the vents to monitor the temperature. Or if you have an oven thermometer, set that on the grate. Open the vents if the temperature drops, close them if it gets too high. And because the turkey takes several hours on the grill, be sure to start a new batch of charcoal in a chimney and add it to the grill once the old charcoal burns down. Similarly, be sure to check the gas in your grill tank a few days before Thanksgiving to make sure you have enough.

Frankly, we like nearly everything cooked on the grill. For this meal, all the dishes are cooked outside. You can do it that way, or mix and match your choices.

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Timeline 1 Week ahead Shop for non-perishable groceries Order the turkey (put turkey in fridge if buying frozen)

2 Days ahead Prepare your holiday table with platters and serving pieces

1 Day ahead Shop for last minute groceries Pick up the turkey

Make the ‘Chambord Cranberry Sauce,’ refrigerate Chop the carrots, celery and onions for the Turkey Set up the bar Make bar garnishes

Morning of the party Grill the ‘Mini-Peppers,’ keep at room temperature Chop the apples and oranges for the Turkey Prepare and cook the Turkey Grill the ‘Cornbread,’ keep at room temperature Precook the potatoes for Dijon Potatoes

1 Hour ahead Make the gravy, keep warm Grill the ‘Dijon Potatoes’ while the turkey rests

Just before the party Set out all food items Check bar, put ice in bucket, set out garnishes Shake the ‘Mayflower Martini’s’ as your guests arrive

When ready for dessert Heat the pie on the grill

Shopping List Turkey, 1 14-16 pound Large carrots, 6 Celery stalks, 6 Onions, 3 Granny Smith apples, 2 Oranges, 3 Smoked paprika Fresh or frozen cranberries, 3 cups Thick-cut bacon, 4 strips Yellow cornmeal Fresh chives, 1 bunch Yukon gold or Idaho potatoes, 5 Small peppers, assorted colors, 24 Apple cider Lemon Apple or your favorite fruit pie Whipped cream Chambord liqueur Old Forrester Bourbon

Also pick up if not already in your pantry Chicken stock Butter Flour Salt Pepper Sugar Baking powder

Baking soda Eggs Milk Olive Oil Dijon mustard Cloves Cinnamon www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 41

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Grilled Dijon Potatoes

Grilled Turkey

Turkey Gravy

(SERVES 6)

Plan on one pound of turkey per person (a little more with leftovers).

If your turkey came with giblets, use them to make the broth. In the little packet that comes inside the turkey you’ll find the neck, gizzard, heart and liver. The liver is very dark and slick.

Combine the neck, gizzard and heart in a small saucepan with 4 cups water and simmer until the liquid is reduced to 3 1/2 cups.

5 Yukon gold or Idaho potatoes 1 cup Dijon mustard 1 /2 cup olive oil Salt and pepper Heat grill to medium-high. Wash the potatoes, do not peel. Slice into 1/2-inch thick slices. Place in a large pan and cover the potatoes with cold water and 1 tablespoon of salt. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to gentle simmer until just shy of fully cooked, 4 to 6 minutes.

The potatoes will be a little hard in the center, but the outer edges will look translucent. Drain in a large colander and rinse with cold water until they are cool; handle gently. Spread them out on a large dish towel and let them sit for up to 1 hour until ready to cook. Mix the mustard, olive oil, salt and pepper in large bowl. Carefully add the potatoes in two to three batches, tossing to fully coat without breaking the slices. Sear over direct heat to create a golden brown crust, about 3 to 6 minutes per side. Remove and serve immediately.

42 Winter 2010Â www.foodanddine.com

6 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped into 1-inch pieces 6 celery stalks, roughly chopped into 1-inch pieces 3 onions, roughly chopped into 1-inch sections 2 Granny Smith apples, seeded and roughly chopped into eighths 2 oranges, chopped into eighths 1 14- to 16-pound turkey 1 /2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature Smoked paprika Salt and pepper Preheat the grill to medium or 350 degrees. Place the carrots, celery and onions in the bottom of the roasting pan to create a bed for the turkey to rest. Fill both cavities with the apples and oranges to add flavor.

Rub the outside of the turkey with the butter and sprinkle with paprika, salt and pepper.

Grill for approximately 20 minutes per pound or until the temperature reaches 165 degrees in the thickest part of the thigh. Remove from the grill, tent with foil and let rest for 20 minutes while you make the gravy.

31/2 cups turkey or chicken stock or broth 3 tablespoons pan drippings (or butter) 5 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teaspoon pepper In a small saucepan over medium heat, mix the drippings or butter with the flour, whisking them together to form a roux.

Slowly add the stock or broth, whisking continually to avoid lumps, until incorporated.

As you add the stock, the flour mixture will seize up and get very stiff. Just keep stirring as you continue to add broth and it will loosen up. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and continue to cook about 10 minutes, whisking occasionally. Continue to cook for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to cook off the floury taste. Season with salt and pepper.

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Cornbread

Chambord Cranberry Sauce

Grilled Mini-Peppers

(SERVES 6)

(SERVES 6)

(SERVES 6)

4 2 1 2 2 2 2 4 2 2

strips thick-cut bacon, chopped cups yellow cornmeal cup all-purpose flour tablespoons sugar teaspoons baking powder teaspoons baking soda teaspoons kosher salt large eggs cups milk tablespoons finely chopped chives

Preheat your grill to medium heat. Put the bacon into a cold 10-inch cast iron pan and cook on your grill top until the fat is rendered and the bacon bits are crisp. Do not let it burn.

Remove the bacon to a paper towel lined plate. Keep the bacon fat in the pan and set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a separate bowl beat the eggs with a whisk until foamy; whisk in the milk. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir just until combined. Fold in the bacon bits, and chives. Pour the batter into the cast iron pan. Grill-bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Chambord is a black raspberry liqueur that sweetens the cranberries and adds a wonderful dark berry flavor. You’ll have Chambord left over; drizzle a little of it over vanilla ice cream for a delicious and easy dessert.

1

/2 /2 1 /2 3 1

cup sugar cup Chambord liqueur cup water cups fresh or frozen cranberries Grated zest of 1 orange

In a medium sauce pan add the sugar, Chambord and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Once the sugar is dissolved add the cranberries and orange zest and return to a boil. Turn the heat down and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the berries pop and the sauce thickens, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat to cool. Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

Dessert Since you have spent the day in the kitchen and by the grill, give yourself a break and relax during dessert. Pick up your favorite fruit pie and simply warm it on the grill before serving. Everyone will enjoy the last bite from the grill as much as they did the first.

24 small peppers, assorted colors Preheat grill to medium. Wash peppers, pat dry. Sear on all sides until soft in the middle, this should only take a few minutes per side.

Place on a serving platter and cover with foil. Serve at room temperature.

Mayflower Martini (SERVES 2)

3 ounces Old Forrester Bourbon 6 ounces apple cider 1 clove Squeeze of lemon Dash of cinnamon Red apple slice, for garnish Put all ingredients into a shaker, shake and strain into a martini glass.

Garnish with a slice of apple.

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liquids cork 101

BY SCOTT HARPER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

Sp a rk l i n g Wines While there is something to be said for drinking sparkling wines during the holidays, we could follow Madame Lily Bollinger’s point of view: “I drink my Champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it unless I’m thirsty.”

Do you know how many bubbles are in a bottle of Champagne? There’s lots of speculation and some actual studies to determine the number, but the more important question may be, “how do all these bubbles get in a bottle?”

In the French region of Champagne, winemakers have perfected the production method of sparkling wine that we now call Champagne because of where it comes from. Yeast and sugar (in the grape juice) create alcohol with a byproduct of carbon dioxide. In the first fermentation of Champagne, as in still wine, carbon dioxide is allowed to escape. The wine is then bottled with a small amount of yeast and sugar and capped with a temporary closure. The wine ferments and the closure traps the carbon dioxide. When this secondary fermentation is complete, you have a sparkling wine.

But there’s more. The process dictates that the dead yeast must stay in the bottle for at least 15 months for non-vintage Champagne and 36 months for vintage Champagne. During this time, the yeast cells enrich the wine giving it a delicious, yeasty fresh-baked-baguette flavor (non-vintage Champagnes are blends from several years in order to make a consistent house style). To remove the yeast the Champagne bottles are put in a rack and are shaken and turned and eventually end up completely upside down with the sediment (dead yeast) at the neck end of the bottle. Then the bottles are placed in a freezing solution, the temporary closure is removed and the frozen sediment ejects itself from the bottle. The Champagne is then topped off with a small amount of Champagne and a small amount of sugar that determines the final level of sweetness.

The opposite of “sweet” is “dry.” Champagne can be extra brut (bone dry), brut (dry), extra sec (dry to medium-dry), sec (medium-dry), and demi sec (sweet). Most of what you see at the retail store will be brut. The Champagne is then corked and has a wire cage placed on it to prevent the cork from shooting out of the bottle prematurely — after all, there are 5 to 6 atmospheres of pressure in a bottle of Champagne. The average cork leaves a Champagne bottle at 42 feet per second. Catch that if you can. No wonder there are warning labels on bottles of bubbly.

Champagne’s labor-intensive manufacturing process is one reason why it is so expensive.

The production method is mandated by law in Champagne, and wineries in other regions in France and elsewhere model their methods in whole or in part on the Champagne method.

To save money, or to produce a lighter, fresher, less complex style, some winemakers might use the Charmat method to produce sparkling wines. The Charmat method’s second fermentation takes place in pressurized tanks, not individual bottles, which is less time-consuming and, therefore, more cost-effective. Charmat produces sparkling wines that are lighter and fresher without the yeasty bread dough quality.

These are some worthy sparkling wines from Champagne and beyond.

44 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Moscato D’Asti Beni Di Batasiolo Bosc Dla Rei 2009 (Piedmont, Italy) Made in Piedmont, Italy this wine is often confused with Asti.

Asti is a full sparkling sweet wine, but Moscato D’Asti is a lightly sparkling wine. Both are made from the moscato grape, yet Moscato D’Asti has less than half the alcohol of most wines because the alcoholic fermentation is halted, leaving natural grape sugar and carbonation behind. This sparkling wine is a soft, round, mediumbodied and sweet wine loaded with fresh cut apricots, peach and pears, like a fresh fruit cocktail. As the Italian’s say, this is a frizzante (effervescent) and delicious desser t wine.

Around $15

Brut Rose Cristalino NonVintage (Cava, Spain) Cava is the sparkling wine from Spain made in and around Catalonia. Cava makes more sparkling wine than any other region in the world. The largest producer of sparkling wine is the cava producer Freixenet.

Cava is made in a modified Champagne method. Rose cava is not produced in great quantity; most of the cava you see is white. This rose is made from 60% pinot noir and 40% trepat (an indigenous red grape of Catalonia). It is made by Jaume Serra winery that was founded in 1943. It’s a pretty dark rose color with the flavor of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. It is a dry, mediumbodied wine with a light bread and yeasty quality. Around $10

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Blanc De Blanc Sofia Francis Coppola 2008 (Monterey, California) Blanc de blanc simply means white of whites. Most Champagnes are made from a combination of red and white grapes, Blanc de blanc is made only from white grapes. This Charmat method blanc de blanc is made from 82% pinot blanc, 10% riesling and 8% muscat. Many celebrities have their names attached to wine labels, but film director Francis Coppola owns the winery bearing his name and he named this wine after his daughter Sofia. Mediumdry and medium-bodied with the flavors of honeysuckle and a fresh picked fruit basket. Orange, tangerine, peach and pear persist through this wine. Around $20

New Age Valentin Bianchi Non-Vintage (Mendoza, Argentina) New Age is an appropriate name for this wine. It is made from an unusual blend of 50% sauvignon blanc and 50% malvasia. This wine’s bubbles come from the first fermentation which, like the Moscato D’ Asti, is cut short, leaving some sweetness and carbonation with lower alcohol behind. A screw cap makes for easy opening. It is common to have New Age on the rocks with lemon and lime, which is a highly refreshing aperitif called “Tincho” after the winemaker, the cocktail’s creator.

Italian immigrant Valentin Bianchi started the winery in 1928 and it is still family owned. This wine is like mixing a sparkling wine with a still wine half and half. Medium-dry to dry, fresh, crisp, vibrant and refreshing with a crisp, citrus and apple flavor. A light, refreshing aperitif.

Around $10

Brut Special Cuvee Bollinger Non-Vintage (Champagne, France) This is true Champagne — produced in the Champagne region by the Champagne method. This wine is made from 60% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay and 15% pinot meunier. A lot of areas make top quality sparkling wine, but the French still make the greatest sparkling wine in the world. Bollinger is atypical because it uses oak barrels in fermentation in addition to the more common stainless steel. Bollinger has been family-owned since 1829 and has been one of James Bond’s favorite Champagnes. This Champagne is dry and crisp with balancing richness in a full-body, with the flavors of fresh baked baguette, spice, citrus and ultra-fine bubbles that are creamy and persistent. Around $50

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liquids hip hops

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

Tapping into the New Arena Louisville lived through the debates and drawings, watched the For the new Arena BBC (300 W. Main), directly south of the KFC earthmovers and cranes converge on what always seemed an Yum! Center, the ever industrious Hagans took on their most impossibly small and compressed plot of ground for installing labor-intensive start-up project to date, and in a truly venerable 22,000 seats, and now the city has its new downtown arena. The structure. Dining, drinking and brewing space to the tune of $1.4 venue cannot lay claim to a professional basketball team as tenant, million now occupies the basement and first floor of the sevenbut most area residents regard the University of Louisville’s story Louisville Orchestra Building, formerly known as the Cardinals as far outstripping the NBA Kentucky National Bank, a splendid “We’re pleased to be by the KFC Yum! Center for in importance when it comes to the 120-year-old example of Richardsonian several reasons, and one of the best reasons is that intensity of their rooting loyalties.

Romanesque architecture that is listed so far, it’s all local businesses — not corporate — My game is beer, and I routinely on the National Register of Historic cheer for the side that offers the best starting up nearby. It’s great to have the hometown Places. selection of American-made, craftLongtime BBC brewer Jerry Gnagy guys be able to take advantage of serving the brewed elixirs for my drinking and people visiting the arena and the downtown area.” was there in late July, on duty, shoveling contemplative pleasure. Whatever the spent grain from the mash tun of a — Pat Hagan, Bluegrass Brewing Company future occasion at Louisville’s freshly newly installed 15-barrel brewing minted indoor palace, from ballgames to rock concerts, and system. By September, the familiar starting lineup of BBC beers including origami conventions, Boy Scout conclaves and massed was flowing: American pale ale, kolsch, alt, nut brown, Dark Star baptisms, there’ll have to be good beer somewhere close at hand, porter and mead, alongside a handful of Gnagy’s idiosyncratic before, during or after the particular event, or else I’ll stay home. specialty brews, which double as ingredients in more than a few As might be expected, the months-long run-up to the KFC Yum! perennial menu favorites: brewhouse chili, spinach and artichoke Center has impacted far more than craft beer choices. It has dip, beer cheese and the batter for fried fish, among others. created opportunity in all directions, even across the Ohio River, I asked Hagan to describe BBC’s success. He replied, “We’ve won in Jeffersonville, where city government approved a request to numerous awards for our beers, and always stuck to our mission operate water taxi service. Two years of arena construction in the statement: To create bold, unique beers, quality affordable food, epicenter of downtown Louisville has helped buck the recession and serve them in a comfortable, family friendly atmosphere.” by spurring redevelopment, as with the Whiskey Loft condos a Hagan might have added: Now appearing across from a major stone’s throw across Second Street, and producing an immediately downtown arena near you. noticeable ripple effect in food and dining options.

Kentucky Ale Tap Room As the BBC’s Pat Hagan notes, virtually all of these venues, Adjectives come and go, and so in the interest of brevity, I’ll whether pre-existing refurbishments or new build-outs, are locally describe the collegiate rivalry between the University of Louisville owned and operated. Happily, most of them reflect the steadily and the University of Kentucky merely as “intense,” omitting growing preference of consumers for choice in beer. Good beer is various R-rated references. The first game between the UK popping up everywhere in proximity to the Cards’ new home, and Wildcats and the U of L Cards on the new home court of the rather than attempt an exhaustive listing of nearby establishments, Cards is slated for December 31, and craft beer lovers will note which can be handily viewed in the map section of this magazine, the irony being served on tap at tip-off.

I’ve chosen to focus instead on my personal “top three new” craft That’s because the Alltech corporation inked a sponsorship agreebeer emporiums closest to the new arena, these being major ment naming the sports bar on the arena’s main concourse after its investments obviously enabled by it, and unlikely to have come to house craft beer: The Kentucky Ale Tap Room, and, Kentucky Ale is life without the arena’s impetus. brewed by Alltech’s Lexington Brewing & Distilling Company in Bluegrass Brewing Company Lexington, home of the University of Kentucky. However, there is far In 1993, Bluegrass Brewing Company became the second more to the Alltech story than clean, crisp ales, seemingly created as Louisville brewpub of our contemporary era, following just a year ideal accompaniments to epochal basketball contests. after the now defunct Silo Brewery broke ground. Back then, the Alltech, headquartered in Nicholasville, is a private, familyfirst task facing BBC’s owners, the Hagan family, was to renovate an owned company with worldwide reach, specializing in natural existing restaurant building in St. Matthews to serve as BBC’s ingredients used in animal, alcohol and food production, many of primary brewing and dining facility, which it remains today. them involving the use of yeasts in manufacturing. It is because of BBC’s second location on 4th Street at Theater Square (2006) this direct connection with fermentation science, the animating also required some preparation work, although just as a restaurant microorganisms of the beer world, and the Irish background and bar, and without a working brewery as part of the package. (brewers as well as coopers) of Alltech’s colorful founder, Dr. Neither of these buildings was more than 20 years old when BBC Pearse Lyons, that brewing and distilling joined his business’s moved into them. existing portfolio.

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According to Jeremy Markle, Kentucky Ale’s one-man whirlwind of a Louisville sales staff, Alltech’s community commitment extends beyond craft beer in the Yum! Center, as attested by sponsorship of the World Equestrian Games earlier in the year, and partnerships with Louisville’s Muhammad Ali Center and Kosair Children’s Hospital.

Furthermore, Markle believes the Kentucky Ale Tap Room just might be a first in the entire nation. “As far as I know,” he says, “sponsorship of a major sports and enter tainment venue by a local independent brewer is unprecedented.”

Alltech’s three year-round beers are Kentucky Ale, Kentucky Light, and Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale, and they’re being sold both within and outside of the arena’s signature tap room.

“Our products will be available on draft at multiple locations throughout the arena, including general concessions and mobile kiosks,” Markle explains. “The centerpiece Kentucky Ale Tap Room will be located on the main concourse at the north side of the arena. It will be the perfect spot to watch the game or concert, enjoy the river view, and never have to step more than a few feet away from good local craft beer on tap.”

There is no food served at the Kentucky Ale Tap Room, although arena concession stands are located nearby.

Patrick O’Shea’s Public House In terms of technology and architectural design, as well as aesthetic appeal, the KFC Yum! Center symbolizes the cutting edge, a culmination of many interwoven, longstanding ideas and themes that have predated it.

The same is true for the new generation of American craft beer: Jerry Gnagy’s recipes for BBC incorporate centuries of brewing lessons painstakingly learned, and yet they’re now brewed in a sleek, proficient modern brewery, and with today’s farranging consumer tastes in mind.

Patrick O’Shea’s Public House, located at 123 West Main Street (a half-block east of the Yum! Center) is another example of the past rushing headlong into the present.

It is an epic, crowning achievement, and the culmination of the O’Shea family’s prolific and successful half-century of hospitality in the food and drink business.

While deriving from all that has come before it, Patrick O’Shea’s is an instant present-day downtown landmark, both for

its scale in the context of local ownership, and its adaptive reuse of an imposing historic structure on Whiskey Row, where sadly, the dilapidated east side of the block is threatened with demolition. Long recognized for his pubs and their philanthropic endeavors, Tom O’Shea now has become the darling of preservationists, and it’s easy to see why.

Patrick O’Shea’s is a joyous sensory overload.There is a tea room and huge custombuilt bar; tin ceilings, balustrades and skylights; sturdy exposed masonry and stolid ceiling beams; decades-old inscriptions remaining on some interior walls from the whiskey warehouse days; balconies and a rooftop deck; an eerie sub-basement used for storage and refrigeration equipment; and probably enough seating space on multiple levels to accommodate an NCAA tournament game.

Food and drink offerings incorporate and expand the tested formula at three other O’ Shea’s pubs elsewhere in Louisville (O’Shea’s, Flanagan’s and Brendan’s), with dining options aplenty, ranging from steaks and pizza, to fish ‘n’ chips and salads.

The extensive Patrick O’Shea’s beer list is the real draw for me. It offers the most diverse overall stylistic selection within crawling distance of the new arena, including imported stalwarts like Guinness and random Belgians on tap, alongside rotating American craft ales.

You’ll see Stone and Dogfish Head, Magic Hat and Schlafly, and Louisville’s local brands, too. Malty or bitter, Germany or Wisconsin or London, fruity and sweet and sour … all the flavors and textures of the world’s brewing bounty get face time at Patrick O’Shea’s, and Tom O’Shea says he is ready for the Yum! Center’s event patrons, be they from near or far.

“We hope to educate the many visitors of our fine city to the great possibilities and wonderful beer offerings from our local and regional breweries,” he told me, “as well as the many, many distinct styles of beer from around the world.”

The only problem for me is this: With Arena BBC and Patrick O’Shea’s to choose from — with a dozen other establishments serving good beer within walking distance — will I ever manage to make it inside the KFC Yum! Center to enjoy a Kentucky Ale with Jeremy Markle, at his company’s Tap Room?

Has anyone seen a ticket office? F&D www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 47

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recipes cooking class

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Cooking with Cheese Say “cheese” and some people might think you’re asking them to smile. But Kentucky chefs think you’re asking them about food, and they’re likely to think local.

Chefs from Sullivan University — Mike Cunha from Louisville and Mac McBride from the Lexington campus — both thought of Capriole goat cheese from just across the river in Greenville, Ind., and Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese from South Central Kentucky, when they were asked to think about cooking with cheese for our winter issue.

Nothing says “local” like Weisenberger grits and country ham. And though both chefs present their dishes in an ultra-sophisticated way (see McBride’s vertical cheese crisp), they both acknowledge that their dishes are basically quite simple (there’s nothing difficult about making cheese crisps).

Cunha, who teaches basic culinary skills and international cooking, said he wasn’t “reinventing the wheel” in his dishes, he just “wanted to get local products Chef Mike Cunha involved,” which both he and McBride did in a most delicious way. Each chef brings us a classic version of grits to savor through the darkening days of winter: McBride makes shrimp and grits; Cunha makes grits with red-eye gravy.

And each chef is inspired by the bright fruits and vegetables of summer. Cunha’s second dish using local cheese is a savory cheesecake, made like dessert cheesecake without the sugar. If you’ve ever turned a jar of pepper jelly over a slab of cream cheese to serve with crackers, you know where this dish is headed. But Chef Mac McBride goat cheese and fresh tarragon add complex flavors, and the chutney calls on summer flavors of peaches, and hot and mild peppers.

McBride’s summer cheese dish features fried green tomatoes with a creamy buttermilk dressing.

Shrimp and wild mushroom grits

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Shrimp and cheddar grits with red-eye gravy.

Savory goat cheesecake with peach chutney.

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Shrimp and Cheddar Grits with Red-Eye Gravy (SERVES 4)

Red-Eye Gravy 2 1 /2 1 /2 1 /2 2 2 1 4 1 1/2 2

tablespoons vegetable oil cup diced onion cup diced carrots cup diced celery bay leaves sprigs thyme cup strong coffee tablespoons sugar cups veal stock or brown stock tablespoons butter

Heat vegetable oil in a heavy skillet set on medium heat. Add onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf and thyme. Cook until vegetables begin to brown, stirring occasionally. Add coffee and sugar and allow to reduce by half of original volume. Add the veal stock or brown stock and reduce again. Remove from heat and whisk in butter. Season with salt and pepper. Strain vegetables if desired and set aside.

Shrimp and Cheddar Grits 1 3 1 /2 1

1

/2 2

1

/3

16

cup milk tablespoons butter cup Weisenberger grits cup grated Kenny’s Farmhouse aged white cheddar cheese cup minced country ham tablespoons chopped parsley Salt and pepper to taste cup vegetable oil, divided Flour for dredging medium shrimp

In a heavy pot, combine milk and butter with 1 cup water. Bring mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat. Add grits, stirring constantly to prevent lumps (using a whisk makes this easier). Reduce heat and cook on low for 40 to 50 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and fold in cheese, ham, parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Pour grits into an 8-inch cake pan and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours or until firm.To remove grits from pan, run knife around edge of pan, place pan upside down onto a cutting surface and tap until grits fall. Cut into eight wedges. Dust wedges lightly with flour and sauté in half of the vegetable oil until golden brown on both sides.

Season shrimp with salt and pepper.

Sauté in remaining vegetable oil until shrimp 50 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

turn pink and opaque. Divide shrimp among four plates, top each with two grits wedges, drape with red-eye gravy and serve.

Savory Goat Cheesecake with Peach Chutney (SERVES 6)

12 12 2 1 1/2 1 /4 1 /4 2

ounces Capriole goat cheese ounces cream cheese eggs teaspoons lemon juice teaspoon salt teaspoon black pepper tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1 pinch dried lavender, crushed

Shrimp and Wild Mushroom Grits (SERVES 6)

Grits Cakes 3 1 1 1/2 1

cups water cup heavy cream teaspoons kosher salt cup Weisenberger yellow grits 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 /2 cup grated Kenny’s Farmhouse Asiago cheese 1 large egg, beaten

Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl beat the goat cheese and cream cheese together until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, blending between each addition (be sure to scrape sides of bowl). Mix in the salt, pepper, tarragon and lavender.

Pour the batter into a 9-inch springform pan. Wrap the outside of the pan with foil. Put the pan in a larger one that is half full of water. Place the pans in the oven and bake 45 to 50 minutes until the top is light brown and the center has a slight jiggle to it. Refrigerate before unmolding and serving. Cut into slices and serve on lettuce leaves topped with a spoonful of peach chutney. Garnish with crushed lavender if desired.

Combine cream and water together and bring to a simmer. Add salt and grits.

Slow cook grits for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring often until creamy and tender.

Remove from heat, add butter and cheese and taste for additional seasoning. Add egg and beat well.

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter six 1-cup ramekins and fill 2/3 -full with grits mixture. Place in baking pan and add enough hot water to come halfway up the sides. Cover the pan (or the individual ramekins) and bake for 12 minutes. Remove cover and bake an additional 20 minutes for crispy crust on top of grits.

Remove from waterbath and when cool enough to handle, run a knife around the inside of the ramekin to loosen cake.

Turn out on a work surface. Repeat with remaining cakes. Set aside.

Peach Chutney

Country Ham Sauce

1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped fine 2 tablespoons shallots, chopped fine 1 jalapeno, minced 1 /2 cup minced red bell pepper 1 /4 cup Bourbon 1 1/2 pounds diced peaches 1 /2 cup sugar 1 /2 cup cider vinegar 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until it begins to foam. Add garlic and shallots and cook for 1 minute.

Add the jalapeno and bell pepper and cook for 2 to 3 minute. Add Bourbon and reduce the mixture by half. Add remaining ingredients and cook until the peaches are soft. Cool before using.

1

/2 /2 1 1 1 5

cup white wine cup Champagne vinegar large shallot, minced bay leaf sprig thyme peppercorns (crushed) Pinch of crushed red pepper 2 1/2 ounces country ham, diced 2 tablespoons heavy cream 10 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 10 pieces 3 tablespoons Kenny’s Farmhouse Asiago cheese, grated 3 to 4 drops Tabasco Kosher salt and white pepper to taste 1

Place first 8 ingredients in stainless steel pot and bring to a boil. Let the mixture boil until it reduces to 1/2 cup. Add cream and simmer 3 minutes. Add butter, one chunk

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at a time, whisking constantly over low heat until it melts, then add the next piece.

Strain sauce and stir in Asiago and Tabasco.

Taste and adjust seasoning.

Fried green tomatoes with spicy buttermilk dressing.

Shrimp and Mushroom Sauté Cook this mixture in two batches using half of all ingredients. Keep the heat very high so the cooking goes quickly.

2 tablespoons clarified butter or oil 1 /2 cup each shiitake, button, chanterelle, and morel mushrooms (or substitute 2 cups wild mushroom mix) 1 /4 cup minced shallot 1 /2 cup julienne country ham 6 tablespoons white wine 2 cups cooked shrimp, chopped Salt and pepper to taste Heat butter or oil and add shallots, ham, and mushrooms and cook over very high heat, stirring or tossing the mixture to glaze the mushrooms. Add wine and stir to dissolve any brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Add cooked shrimp. Lightly season with salt and pepper.

Seasoned Flour Cheese Crisp 1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese 3 /4 cup grated Kenny’s Farmhouse peppercorn Asiago cheese In a bowl, mix together Parmesan and Asiago cheeses. Place about a tablespoon of cheese mixture in a 2-inch circle in a small, nonstick pan. Place pan on medium heat to melt the cheese. Remove carefully with spatula, cool on a flat surface and repeat with remaining cheese.

To assemble: Divide shrimp mixture among six plates. Top each with grits cake, then drizzle with sauce. Place a cheese crisp vertically in the grits cake and serve.

Fried Green Tomatoes and Spicy Buttermilk Dressing (SERVES 4)

3 3 1 8

or 4 green tomatoes tablespoons kosher salt tablespoon black pepper thin slices Kenny’s Farmhouse Tomme De Nena cheese

1 1 2 2 1 1 /4 1 /2

cup all-purpose flour tablespoon salt teaspoons garlic powder teaspoons onion powder teaspoon paprika teaspoon cayenne teaspoon ground black pepper 1 /2 teaspoon white pepper Pinch thyme 1 /4 teaspoon dry English mustard Pinch rubbed sage

Egg Wash 5 eggs, beaten 5 tablespoons milk

Pat tomatoes dry, insert a slice of cheese and dust with seasoned flour, shaking off excess. Dip into egg wash then into breading.

Coat well and place on sheet pan. Repeat process for remaining slices. Heat about 1inch of oil in a skillet to 350 degrees. Fry tomatoes until nicely browned on both sides. Remove and drain. Serve with spicy buttermilk dressing.

Spicy Buttermilk Dressing 1 /4 1 /4 1 3 1 /4 1

1

Breading 1 1/2 cups panko crumbs 1 cup cornmeal

/2 /8 1

1

1 Slice tomatoes about 3/8-inch thick. Cut each slice in half, but go only about 3/4 of the way through (this is where you will place a cheese slice). Salt and pepper to taste, set aside.

Combine seasoned flour. Make egg wash. Ready breading components.

1

/4 /2

1

cup buttermilk cup mayonnaise cup sour cream teaspoon lemon juice teaspoons paprika teaspoon dry English mustard teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon black pepper tablespoon fresh chopped parsley teaspoon fresh chopped chives teaspoon dried dill teaspoon cayenne

Combine all ingredients together in a bowl. Mixture should be red and spicy.

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▲

Alphabetical Index

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

Cuisine Style

RESTAURANT

72 72 74 74 74 74 75 75 71 70 59 61 67 78 78 63 80 81 67 75 75 75 76 76 56 66 77 78 72 77 67 69 62 80 62 57

Area Maps

82

dining guide

AFRICAN ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/FILIPINO ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/MONGOLIAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CARIBBEAN/CUBAN CASUAL DINING COFFEE/TEA HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN EUROPEAN/SPANISH FINE DINING HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN INDIAN MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL

MAP # DIRECTION PG # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 86 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 hikes point – buechel EAST 88 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 89 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 90 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NEW MAP NA 9 under construction NORTH EAST 91 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 92 12 shively – pleasure ridge SOUTH 93 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 94 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 95 15 clarksville INDIANA 95 16 jeffersonville

52 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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#1 Asian Buffet 72 211 Clover Lane 56 60 West Bistro 57 610 Magnolia 56 732 Social 57 8 China Buffet 72 A Nice Restaurant 63 A Taste of China 72 A.J.’s Gyro Café 77 Adriann’s Around the Table 61 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Adrienne’s Italian 76 Ahoy Fish Hut 62 Al Watan 77 Alexander’s Pizzeria 67 Alley Cat Café 61 Amazing Grace Deli 69 Amici´ 76 Anchorage Café 61 Angelina’s Café 76 Angilo’s Pizza 67 Angio’s Restaurant 67 Ann’s by the River 67 Annie Cafe 75 Annie’s Pizza 67 Another Place 69 Applebee’s 63 Arni’s Pizza 67 Aroma Café 61 Artesia Fusion Bistro 59 Asahi Japanese 74 Asian Buffet 72 Asian Moon 72 Asiatique 57 Aspen Creek Restaurant 63 Atrium Café 59 August Moon 72 Austin’s 57 Avalon 57 BD’s Mongolian Grill 74 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 63 Backyard Burger 69 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 72 Bank Street Brewhouse 72 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 The Bard’s Town 67 Basa Modern Vietnamese 57 Baxter Station 59 Bazos Mexican Grill 78 Bean Street Café 8o Bearno’s Pizza 68 Beef O’Brady’s 71 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 74 Bendoya Sushi Bar 74 Big Al’s Beeritaville 71 Big Ben Café 63 Big Blue Country 71 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 66 The Bistro 67 Bistro 42 76 Bistro 301 59 Bistro Le Relais 59 Blackstone Grille 57 Blimpie’s Subs 69 The Blind Pig 63 BLU Mediterranean Grille 57 Blue Dog Bakery 61 Blue Horse Café 64 Blue Lagoon 62 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 61 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 72 Bombay Grill 77 Bonefish Grill 62 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 68 Boombozz Famous Pizza 68 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 68 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 68 Boomer’s Café 61 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 70 Borromeo’s Pizza 68 Bosna-Mak 75 Bourbons Bistro 60 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 70 Bravo!

57 Breadworks 81 Brendan O’Shea’s 75 Brian’s Deli 69 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 64 Bristol Bar & Grille 57 Brix Wine Bar 60 Browning’s Brewery 60 Buca Di Beppo 76 Buck’s 56

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Asian/Chinese 2 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 13 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 14 Cafés 5 Desserts/Bakery 16 European/Italian 16 Seafood 4 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Cafés 5 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 13 Cafés 5 European/Italian 5 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Pizza 1, 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining [7] Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 11 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Asian/Mongolian 6 Casual Dining 5 Sandwich/Deli 6 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 13 Microbreweries 14 Home Style/Southern 2 Entertainment Dining 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3, 6 Coffee/Tea House 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill 5, 8, 13, 14, 15 Asian/Japanese 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 2 Casual Dining 8 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafeterias 3 European/Italian 10 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Upscale Casual 10 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 13 Seafood 2 Cafés 1 Microbreweries 1, 3 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12 Pizza 3 Pizza 6 Pizza 2, 5 Cafés 1 Barbecue 11, 13 Pizza 13 European/Bosnian 4 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 5 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 European/Irish 3 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 6 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Bistro/Contemporary 1 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 13

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Buckhead Mountain Grill 64 Buffalo Wild Wings 71 Buffalo Wings & Rings 71 Bulldog Café 61 Bungalow Joe’s 71 Bunz Restaurant 64 Burger Boy 69 Burning Bush Grill 77 Butcher’s Best Deli 69 Butterfly Garden Café 61 Café 360 77 Café Envy 64 Café Fraiche 61 Café Lou Lou 60 Café Magnolia 64 Café Mimosa 75 Café Montagu 61 Café on Fifth 69 Café Palacio 69 Café Thuy Van 75 Caffe Classico 80 Cake Flour 81 California Pizza Kitchen 68 Calistoga Bakery Café 69 Cancun Mexican Grill 78 Captain Pepper Jack’s 77 Captain’s Quarters 64 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 64 Carley Rae’s 66 Carolyn’s 66 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 76 Caspian Grill Persian Bistro77 Cast Iron Steakhouse 62 Cat Box Deli 69 Catfish Haven Restaurant 62 Caviar Japanese Rest.

57 Cellar Door Chocolates 81 Champions Grill 64 Champion’s Sports Bar 71 Charlestown Pizza Co. 68 Check’s Café 66 Cheddar Box Café 61 Cheddar’s Casual Café 64 The Cheesecake Factory 57 Chez Seneba African 72 The Chicago Gyro 69 The Chicken House 66 Chicken King 66 The Chili Pot 66 Chili’s 64 China 1 72 China Buffet 72 China Café 72 China Castle 72 China Garden 73 China Inn 73 China King 73 China Taste 73 Chinese Chef 73 Chinese Express 73 Choi’s Asian Food Market 74 Chong Garden 73 Chopshop Salads 64 Chopsticks 73 Chopsticks House 73 Christy’s Bar & Bistro 64 Chung King 73 Chuy’s 80 Cici’s 68 City Café 61 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 70 Clarksville Seafood 62 Clifton’s Pizza 68 Coach Lamp 64 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Cocos Lokos Caribbean 78 Coffee Crossing 80 Coffee Pot Café 80 Come Back Inn 76 The Comfy Cow 81 Conez & Coneyz 69 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 56 Corner Café 58 Big Al’s Beeritaville 71 Cottage Café 66 Cottage Inn 66 Cozza Osteria Enoteca 76 Crave Café & Catering 61 Cravings a la Carte 67 Creekside Outpost & Café 61 Cricket’s Café 61 Crystal Chinese 73 Cuba Libre 78 Cubana Restaurant 78 Culver’s 64 Cumberland Brews 72 Cunningham’s 64 The Cupcake Shoppe 81 Cyclers Café 61 Dakshin Indian Restaurant 77 DaLat’s Gateuux & Bakery 81 Danish Express Pastries 69 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 68 Day’s Espresso 80 De La Torre’s 76 Dejlah Bistro 77

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Casual Dining 4, 8, 16 Bar & Grill2,3, 5, 6, 8, 12,15 Bar & Grill 8, 11 Cafés 13 Bar & Grill 11 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 13 Middle Eastern 10 Sandwich/Deli 10 Cafés 2, 3 Middle Eastern 2 Casual Dining 1 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Casual Dining 1 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Cafés 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Sandwich/Deli 3 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Coffee/Tea House 2 Desserts/Bakery 1 Pizza 5 Sandwich/Deli 1,3 Mexican 6 Middle Eastern 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Home Style/Southern 12 European/Italian 5 Middle Eastern 2 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Seafood 12 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 2 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 16 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 5 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 13 Sandwich/Deli 2 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 12 Casual Dining 1, 3 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Barbecue 12 Seafood 15 Pizza 2 Casual Dining 1 Desserts/Bakery 2 Caribbean/Cuban 6 Coffee/Tea House 14 Coffee/Tea House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Desserts/Bakery 5 Sandwich/Deli 2 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 5 Home Style/Southern 13 Mexican 16 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Cafés 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban 16 Caribbean/Cuban 2 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Desserts/Bakery 3 Cafés 2 Indian 11 Desserts/Bakery 13 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 Coffee/Tea House 2 European/Spanish 2 Middle Eastern 3

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Del Frisco’s 62 Derby Café 61 Derby City Dogs 69 Derby City Espresso 80 Derby Dinner Playhouse 67 The Dessert Gallery 81 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 69 Diamond Pub & Billiards 71 Difabio’s Casapela 76 DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub 68 Dish On Market 60 Ditto’s Grill 60 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 69 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 66 Don Pablos 78 Donegan’s Restaurant & Pub 71 Dooley’s Bagels 69 Double Dragon 73 Double Dragon II 73 Double Dragon 8 73 Double Dragon 9 73 Double Dragon Buffet 73 Downtown Diner & Coffee House Dragon King’s Daughter 74 Dueling Grounds Café 61 Dynasty Buffet 73 Eastern House 73 Eggroll Machine 73 Eiderdown 75 Einstein Brothers Bagels 69 El Burrito de Oro 78 El Caporal 78 El Mundo 78 El Nopal 78 El Nopalito 79 El Rey Mexican 79 El Rodeo Mexican 79 El Sombrero 79 El Tarasco 79 El Toro Cantina & Grill 79 Emperor of China 73 Empress of China 73 The English Grill 56 Equus 58 Erika’s German Rest.

75 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 62 Ernesto’s 79 ET’s Memphis Bar-B-Q 70 Eva Mae’s Creekside 64 Expression Of You 80 The Falafel House 77 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 70 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 68 Fat Jimmy’s 68 Feed Bag Deli 69 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 70 First Wok 73 The Fish House 62 The Fishery 62 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 64 Flanagans Ale House 71 Fleur de Lis Café 61 Fork in the Road 66 Forty Acres And A Mule 66 Four King’s Café 71 Fox & Hound 71 Franco’s Restaurant 66 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 70 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 69 Frolio’s Pizza 68 Frontier Diner 66 Fuji Asian Bistro 74 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 74 Fun Food Café 62 Gasthaus 75 Gavi’s Restaurant 64 Gerstle’s Place 71 Gigi’s Cupcakes 81 Golden Buddha 73 Golden Corral 66 Golden Palace 73 Golden Star Chinese 73 Golden Wall 73 Goose Creek Diner 64 Granny’s Apron 66 Granville Inn 71 Grape Leaf 77 Great American Grill 72 Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Great Life Café 69 Great Wall 73 Great Wok 73 Green Room Coffee 80 Habana Blues Tapas 78 Hall’s Cafeteria 67 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 74 Happy China 73 Hard Rock Café 60 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 70 Havana Rumba 78 Hawksview Gallery 58 Hazelwood Restaurant 66 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81

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Steakhouse 3 Cafés 13 Sandwich/Deli 2 Coffee/Tea House 1 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 5 Desserts/Bakery 1, 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 3 European/Italian 2 Pizza 3 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Mexican 15 Bar & Grill 2 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 5 61 Cafés 14 Asian/Japanese 2 Cafés 14 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 2 European/German 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mexican 15 Mexican 4, 6, 15 Mexican 2 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 13, 14 Mexican 4, 11 Mexican 4 Mexican 12 Mexican 16 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 Mexican 6 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 4 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 3 European/German 6 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Mexican 5, 6 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 10 Coffee/Tea House 2 Middle Eastern 2 Barbecue 6, 15 Pizza 13 Pizza 1, 2, 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 Mexican 8, 11 Barbecue 1, 12 Asian/Chinese 12 Seafood 2, 5 Seafood 3, 5 Casual Dining 8, 14 Bar & Grill 2 Cafés 2 Home Style/Southern 12 Home Style/Southern 13 Bar & Grill 4 Bar & Grill 3 Home Style/Southern 12 Barbecue 2, 3 Sandwich/Deli 7 Pizza 13 Home Style/Southern 12 Asian/Japanese 12 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Cafés 2 European/German 7 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 3 Desserts/Bakery 6 Asian/Chinese 13 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Casual Dining 8 Home Style/Southern 13 Bar & Grill 13 Middle Eastern 2 Bar & Grill 13 Desserts/Bakery 5, 14 Cafés 6,8,15 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 13 Coffee/Tea House 6 Caribbean/Cuban 14 Cafeterias 2 Asian/Japanese 10 Asian/Chinese 6 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Barbecue 16 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5 Upscale Casual 13 Home Style/Southern 12 Coffee/Tea House 2, 3 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2010 53

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Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 74 Asian/Japanese 5 Hill Street Fish Fry 62 Seafood 13 Hillbilly Tea 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hitching Post Inn 72 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 Home Run Burgers & Fries 64 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6 Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen 81 Desserts 2,3,5,6,8,11,15 Hometown Buffet 66 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 68 Pizza 5, 7 Honey Creme Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Honeybaked Café 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 Hong Kong Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 13 Hooters 64 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 Howl at the Moon 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Hunan Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 11 Ichiban Samurai 74 Asian/Japanese 6 IHOP 64 Casual Dining 6, 15 Improv Comedy Club 67 Entertainment Dining 1 Incredible Dave’s 67 Entertainment Dining 8 Indi’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13 Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub 72 Bar & Grill 5 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 58 Upscale Casual 1 The International Mall 76 European/Italian 1 The Irish Rover 76 European/Irish 2, 7 The Irish Exit 76 European/Irish 14 Iroquois Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Istanbul Café 77 Middle Eastern 2 Istanbul Palace 77 Middle Eastern 8 J. Alexander’s 58 Upscale Casual 3 J. Graham’s Café 62 Cafés 1 J. Gumbo’s 78 Cajun/Creole 1, 2, 5, 6, 13 J. Harrods 58 Upscale Casual 10 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 56 Fine Dining 14 Jack Fry’s 58 Upscale Casual 2 Jack’s Lounge 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Jackson’s Seafood 62 Seafood 14 Jade Garden Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Jade Palace 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 4 Jasmine 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Jason’s Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Java Brewing Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2, 5, 10 Jazzyblu 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 1 Jersey Mike’s Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Jersey’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 15 Jessie’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Jimbo’s BBQ 70 Barbecue 13 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 69 Sandwich/Deli 1,2,3,6,14,15 Joe Davola’s 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 Joe Huber Restaurant 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Joe’s Crab Shack 62 Seafood 1 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 78 Cajun/Creole 6 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 64 Casual Dining 5 John E’s 58 Upscale Casual 4 John O’Bryan’s Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 12 Johnny V’s 68 Pizza 6 Jucy’s Smokehouse 70 Barbecue 5 Jumbo Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Kansai Japanese Rest.

74 Asian/Japanese 15 Karem’s 64 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 77 Indian 2 Kayrouz Café 62 Cafés 3 Kern’s Korner 64 Casual Dining 2 King Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 3 Kingfish 62 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Kings Fast Food 66 Home Style/Southern 1 King’s Fried Chicken 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Kobe Japanese Steak 74 Asian/Japanese 16 Koreana II 74 Asian/Korean 13 KT’s 58 Upscale Casual 2 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 La Bamba 79 Mexican 2 La Bocca 76 European/Italian 14 La Bodega 76 European/Spanish 2 La Colombiana 76 European/Spanish 8 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 76 European/Italian 2 La Monarca 79 Mexican 11 La Que 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 La Rosita Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 14, 15 La Rosita Taqueria 79 Mexican 15 La Tapatia 79 Mexican 2, 13 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 14 Las Gorditas 79 Mexican 11 Lee’s Korean 74 Asian/Korean 13 Legend’s 64 Casual Dining 14 Lemongrass Café 75 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Lenny’s Sub Shop 69 Sandwich/Deli 4 Liang’s Café 73 Asian/Chinese 8 The Lighthouse 72 Bar & Grill 16 Lil’ Loafers Bakery 69 Sandwich/Deli 13 Lilly’s 56 Fine Dining 2 Limestone 56 Fine Dining 5 Ling Ling 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 13 Little Chef 69 Sandwich/Deli 14 Little India Café 77 Indian 4 Little Jerusalem 77 Middle Eastern 13 Liu’s Garden 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Logan’s Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 3, 12, 15 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 79 Mexican 13 Longhorn Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 69 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3 54 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

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Los Aztecas 79 Lotsa Pasta 70 Louisville Grille 66 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Luigi’s 68 Lunch Today 70 Lynn’s Paradise Café 64 Ma Zerellas 68 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 75 Maido Essential Japanese 74 Main Eatery 70 Main St. Tavern 72 Majihd’s St. Matthews 60 Maker’s Mark Lounge 58 Mama’s Table 66 Manhattan Grill 64 Mark’s Feed Store 70 Martini Italian Bistro 76 Maxwell’s Bar & Grille 64 Mayan Café 79 McAlister’s Deli 70 The Melting Pot 58 Meridian Café 62 Mexican Fiesta 79 Mexicano 79 Mexico Tipico 79 Mexico Viejo 79 Michael Murphy’s 72 Michele’s On Goss 58 Midori Japanese Restaurant 74 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 74 Mike Linnig’s 62 Mike’s Tavern 72 Mimi’s Café 64 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 66 Mitchell’s Fish Market 62 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 77 Molly Malone’s 76 The Monkey Wrench 64 Morris Deli & Catering 70 Morton’s of Chicago 63 Mozz Mozzarella Bar 56 Mr. Gattis 68 Mr. Lou’s 66 Mr. Pollo 64 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 64 My Favorite Muffin 81 My Old KY Dinner Train 67 My Patria 79 Naked Pizza 68 Nancy’s Bagel Box 70 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Napa River Grill 58 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 64 New Albanian Brewing Co. 68 New China 73 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 Nile Restaurant & Lounge 78 Nord’s Bakery 81 North End Café 58 O’Charley’s 64 O’Dolly’s 67 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 76 The Oakroom 56 Oasis Japanese Restaurant 74 Oceanside Restaurant 77 Oishii Sushi 74 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 68 Old Louisville Coffee House 80 Old Spaghetti Factory 76 Old Stone Inn 58 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 70 The Olive Garden 76 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Omar’s Fast Food 77 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 73 Orders Up Café & Deli 70 Oriental House 73 Oriental Star 73 Original Impellizzeri’s 68 Osaka Sushi Bar 74 Otto’s Café 65 Our Best Restaurant 67 Outback Steakhouse 63 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 58 Palermo Viejo 76 Panda Chinese 73 Panera Bread Co. 70 Papa John’s 68 Papa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Papalino’s 68 Passtime Fish House 62 Pat’s Steak House 63 Patrick O’Shea’s 76 PattiCakes Café 62 Patticakes & Pies Café 62 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Paula Deen Buffet 65 Peking City Bistro 74 Penn Station 70 Peppers Bar and Grill 65 Perfetto Pizza 68 Perkfection 80 Pesto’s Italian 76

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Mexican 1, 5, 10 Sandwich/Deli 3 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 6 Pizza 1 Sandwich/Deli 16 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 15 Asian/Thai 16 Asian/Japanese 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Upscale Casual 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Casual Dining 1 Barbecue 2, 5, 12, 14 European/Italian 8 Casual Dining 6 Mexican 1 Sandwich/Deli [8] Upscale Casual 6 Cafés 3 Mexican 4 Mexican 11 Mexican 5, 12 Mexican 2 Bar & Grill 1 Upscale Casual 13 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Japanese 3 Seafood 12 Bar & Grill 14 Casual Dining 5 Home Style/Southern 1, 2 Seafood 8 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 European/Spanish 7 European/Irish 2, 3 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Steakhouse 1 Fine Dining 1 Pizza 4, 5, 12, 13 Home Style/Southern 12 Casual Dining 4 Coffee/Tea House 1 Casual Dining 2 Desserts/Bakery 5 Entertainment Dining 13 Mexican 5 Pizza 3 Sandwich/Deli 1 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 5 Casual Dining 14 Pizza 14 Asian/Chinese 5 Bar & Grill 8 Caribbean/Cuban 13 Desserts/Bakery 13 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 13 Middle Eastern 4 Asian/Japanese 2 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 13 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 5 Barbecue 11 European/Italian 6, 8, 11, 15 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 13 Asian/Chinese 14 Sandwich/Deli 5 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 13 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern11,13,16 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 13, 15 Upscale Casual 5 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 1,5,6,8,13,15 Pizza [30] Pizza 3, 5, 8, 11, 12, 14, 15 Pizza 2 Seafood 6 Steakhouse 2 European/Irish 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 14 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 5 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 1 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 16 European/Italian 1

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Petra Mediterranean 77 Middle Eastern 4 Pho Binh Minh 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 5, 6 The Pie Pantry 81 Desserts/Bakery 12 Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 12 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 70 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 77 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 77 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 78 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza By The Guy 68 Pizza 5 Pizza King 68 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 68 Pizza 4 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 76 European/Italian 2 Proof On Main 58 Upscale Casual 1 Pub Louisville 65 Casual Dining 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 68 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 80 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Mexican [11] Queen of Sheba 72 African 4 Queenie’s Soul Cuisine 67 Home Style/Southern 4 Queue Café 62 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee Shop 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Quizno’s Subs 70 Sandwich/Deli [12] Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Casual Dining 3, 8 Ramsi’s Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 80 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 65 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Star Tavern 58 Upscale Casual 1 Red Sun Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 76 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 71 Barbecue 1 River City Winery 60 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Riverbend Winery 59 Upscale Casual 1 Rivue 56 Fine Dining 1 Rocky’s Sub Pub 68 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 76 European/Italian 5 Roosters 65 Casual Dining 12, 13 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 72 Bar & Grill 8 Rosticeria Luna 80 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 11, 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 71 Barbecue 13 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Mexican 15 Ruby Tuesday 65 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Casual Dining 1 Rumball’s Family Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 8, 12 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 62 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 11 Saffron’s 78 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saint’s 72 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 74 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 74 Asian/Japanese 3 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe Grill 80 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 74 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine74 Asian/Filipino 2 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 8 Scotty’s Ribs 71 Barbecue 5 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern78 Cajun/Creole 5 Senor Iguana’s 80 Mexican 5, 13, 15 Sergios World Beers 72 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 71 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 74 Asian/Chinese 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 77 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 71 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Sharom’s 62 Seafood 11 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 76 European/Irish 2, 4 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shogun 74 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 65 Casual Dining 2, 13 Sichuan Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 68 Pizza 1 Simply Splendid Salads 64 Casual Dining 5 Simply Thai 75 Asian/Thai 3 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 68 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 77 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 66 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Slammer’s Sports Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 Smokehouse BBQ 71 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 71 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Barbecue 6 Snappy Tomato 68 Pizza 8, 10 Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 1, 2 Sonny’s Island Grill 72 Bar & Grill 16 Sonoma Coffee Café 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Soupy’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 4 Spaghetti Shop 76 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Sporting News Grill 72 Bar & Grill 13 The Sports & Social Club 72 Bar & Grill 1 Spring St. Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 2 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 62 Seafood 3 Starbucks Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House [35] Starving Artist Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 5

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Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining 4,6,8,13,12,15 Steinert’s 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevie B’s Burgers & More 66 Casual Dining 15 Stevens & Stevens 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 76 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 63 Steakhouse 8 Stop Lite Café 62 Cafés 1 Studio Pizza 69 Pizza 15 Stumler Restaurant 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 70 Sandwich/Deli 13 Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 11 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 80 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sweet Stuff Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sweet Surrender 62 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Sweet-Tee’s 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Taco Bueno 80 Mexican 6 Taco Tico 80 Mexican 12 Tacos Toreados Taqueria 80 Mexican 6 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 13 Taj Palace 77 Indian 8 TanThai Restaurant 75 Asian/Thai 14 Taste Of Asia 74 Asian/Chinese 8 TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 74 Asian/Chinese 8 The Tequila Factory 80 Mexican 2 Texas Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 Texicans BBQ Pit 71 Barbecue 7 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 75 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 75 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 75 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 75 Asian/Thai 13 Thai Taste 75 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 72 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 62 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 62 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 62 Cafés 13 Theater Square Marketplace60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Third Avenue Café 62 Cafés 1 Third Street Coffee House 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 70 Sandwich/Deli 13 Tiffany Cellar Café 62 Cafés 5 Tilted Kilt 66 Casual Dining 3 Toast On Market 66 Casual Dining 1, 14 Tokyo Japanese 74 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster’s Rest. 66 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 69 Pizza 13 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 69 Pizza 5 Trailside Café 80 Coffee/Tea House 5 Trellis Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 True Thai 75 Asian/Thai 11 Tubby’s Pizza 69 Pizza 7 Tucker’s 66 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex1,2,4, 6, 8,12, 13,14,15,16 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 76 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Umai Zushi Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 8 Uptown Café 59 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 59 Upscale Casual 2 Verbana Café 62 Cafés 8 Vic’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 14 Vietnam Kitchen 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Village Anchor Pub & Roost 61 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 57 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizza 69 Pizza 13 Volare 76 European/Italian 2 VT’s Bubble Cup 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 W.W. Cousin’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Wall Street Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 66 Casual Dining 10 The White Oak 59 Upscale Casual 1 Whitney’s Diner 62 Cafés 4 Wick’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 5, 8, 12, 14 Wild Eggs 62 Cafés 3, 5 Wiltshire On Market 59 Upscale Casual 1 Windy City Pizzeria 69 Pizza 13 The Wing Zone 66 Casual Dining 13 Winston’s 57 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 62 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 59 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 62 Cafés 1 Yang Kee Noodle 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Yellow Cactus 80 Mexican 14 Yen Ching 74 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 74 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Za’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2 Zanzabar 72 Bar & Grill 13 Zaxby’s 66 Casual Dining 16 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2 Zen Garden 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zen Tea House 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 Zeppelin Café 62 Cafés 13 Zoe’s Kitchen 78 Middle Eastern 1, 8 Z’s Fusion 57 Fine Dining 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 57 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC  = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andrew Smith has added a 1300 bottle wine cellar and private dining room to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine from long time Chef Troy Schuster.

This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ p f ✿

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BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for over two decades.

Former namesake and house manager Buck Heath recently retired, but the high quality of food and service remains. $$$ p f e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ p ✿ JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ p h LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution approaching its quarter-century mark, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt and former partner Michael Cunha have

RED = ADVERTISER

established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Cunha’s friendly departure to train the next generation of chefs at Sullivan leaves the kitchen in Gerhardt’s capable hands. $$$$ p ✿ MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. An ambitious idea from Matthew Antonovich and Michael Cooper, alumni of Casa Grasanti’s, resurrecting the old Primo space in the Cobalt building on the edge of NuLu. Fresh mozzarella is made on the hour as patrons watch, an antipasto bar offers more than 100 varieties of vegetables, meats and cheeses and the upscale enoteca section will emphasize “rustic earth-totable eating.” $$$ p e h ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) and his chef de cuisine Bobby Benjamin continue to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA five-diamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239.

You can still get a revolving view of the city in this upscale dining room. But a major makeover in 2007 has completely transformed the dark old Flagship Room into a sleek black and white modern fantasy right out of an old Fred Astaire movie. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes.

Nationally noted in many food magazines, Lamas has exposed diners to the cooking traditions of the Americas with his always interesting Gusto Latino wine dinners, another fine value in the dining scene. $$$$ p f h ✿

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VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S FUSION 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Consummate restaurateur Mehrzad Sharbaiani (Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse) spent $2 million to remake this 10,500 square foot space into a cool, sophisticated oasis. The menu’s ingenious and delicious take on fusion cooking and the excellent service make this an exceptional dining experience at surprisingly reasonable prices. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich environs outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar with an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails.

New chef Ray Ramirez offers appealing, fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$ p f e ✿

732 SOCIAL 732 E. Market St., 583-6882. Since chef-owner Jayson Lewellyn opened the doors of his sleek, intimate spot in the midst of the NuLu art district, crowds have flowed in, both for the innovative small plates, always-changing menu, and the creative bartenders who practice the art of preProhibition cocktail crafting. Dishes are designed to be shared, so be sure to bring a convivial and hungry group. $$$ p f ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to panAsian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿ AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. With a new look and a refocusing of the menu on upscale value dining, Avalon has once again found its direction. We always try to sit on the three-season patio, one of the best in the city. $$$ p f ✿ THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.

(See listing under Entertainment Dining.)

BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ p BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Prospect, KY, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿ BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿ BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich,

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calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ p ✿ HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shephardsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$$ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant restaurant space in Actor’s Theatre of Louisville’s historic building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿ J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿ J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and

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value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ p e h ✿ JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Owner John Shanchuck caters to the horseracing crowd. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ p e ✿ KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009.

Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h ✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ MICHELE’S ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5909.

Michele Brinke has taken over the space in the Goss Avenue Antique Mall that used to be Olivia’s.

The large, airy space will serve up lunch to mall browsers, and dinner as well. $ f ✿

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NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141.

Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish new quarters of this popular, decade-old East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s now anchoring Westport Village center, a trendy new hangout. $$$ p f h ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

Known for their hearty and interesting breakfast choices, The North End also satisfies diners at lunch and dinner. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine $$$ f h ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ p f e ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360.

Seasoned executive chef Michael Paley’s everchanging creative menu continues to make Proof a destination dining spot, the culinary equal of the quirky 21c Museum Hotel which has garnered national notice. Mediterranean in focus, with a commitment to using local products as much as possible, the adventurous dishes (grilled octopus, bison burgers, beef marrow, sea salt caramel gelato) are made with the freshest ingredients. $$$ p ✿ RED STAR TAVERN 450 S. Fourth St., 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Fourth Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an

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atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h RIVERBEND WINERY 120 S. Tenth St., 540-5650.

Watch the winemakers in action, crafting 20 varieties of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes, as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale casual eatery just west of downtown. Weekly chefs dinners with wine pairings at reasonable prices. $$ p e ✿ UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212.

Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

THE WHITE OAK 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. This NuLu stalwart has undergone some changes recently, but continues to serve up Southern comfort food using classical techniques and local suppliers. Look for dishes such as Southern-style fried chicken, cornmeal-dusted fried catfish and chicken-fried bison steak on the ever changing menu. $$ p f e h ✿ WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry and Chef Coby Ming’s finely crafted small plates change weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients available, with no dish over $15. Open Thur. - Sat. only.

Reservations suggested. $$ f ✿ YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

ARTESIA FUSION BISTRO 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 426-9191.$$ ✿ ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. After a long run as a fine dining establishment, owner Anthony Dike has recently reinvented his restaurant as a bistro, sparked by the arrival of new chef Bill Lynch. $$$$ p f e ✿

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BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838.

It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, featuring the works of French-trained chef Michael Crouch. No, it’s a great bar, with what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Actually, this Crescent Hill favorite is both, and the bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. Don’t miss the duck confit strudel appetizer. $$$ p f ✿

DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ p h ✿

BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ h e

HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Street Live, 568-2202.

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿

BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174.

Brewmaster Brian Reymiller crafts a lovely range of beers and ales, and the upscale, inventive “tavern fare” menu created by chef Anoosh Shariat, who continues to oversee the operation, has returned Browning’s to a dependable, lively, pleasant venue in the popular Slugger Field. $$ p f ✿

HILLBILLY TEA 120 S. First St., 587-7350. It’s a breakfast place, with hearty egg dishes, bison sausage patties, tofu scramble and potato bake casserole.

It’s a tea café, with choice of black, green, herbal or rare teas. It’s a lunch and dinner spot, with unusual offerings: sorrel and potato soup, roadkill stew (made with game), smoked catfish, frog legs, barley salad with summer squash and tea egg, moonshine pork, pine-smoked bison, and a long list of desserts. It’s an unusual place downtown that immediately started pulling in fans. $ ✿

CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood.

A second location in the Douglass Loop, is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ p ✿ DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669.

Anderson Grissom, former Asiatique bar manager, has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale breakfast and lunch spot. Look for egg dishes, of course, and biscuits and gravy, smoked salmon hash and a pancake of the day. Lunch includes soups, salads and sandwiches such as shrimp po’ boy or spicy black bean burger. $ p ✿

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JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿ JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ p e h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine,

RED = ADVERTISER

you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable atmosphere and excellent bistro fare with a creative twist from Chef Rick Adams add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Majid Ghavami has sold Saffron’s downtown, and will open his new venture in the St. Matthews location that formerly housed Rick’s, Five Points and a host of other ventures.The Mediterranean-American menu will offer Saffron’s fan’s favorites such as the rack of lamb, salmon, duck and kebabs, as well as a new American menu The wine bar will serve small plates, and focus on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ p f e ✿ RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban.

Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices and late night hours add to the draw. $$ f e h ✿ RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 945-9463. The newest area winery, open since late spring. Several of owner Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2009 Indy International Wine Competition, and since summer has been offering a well-crafted appetizer style menu to pair with the wines. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ e ✿ THEATER SQUARE MARKET PLACE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. The old Kentucky movie theater has been impressively renovated into a classy in-theround bar with a sophisticated cocktail menu and a sleekly designed dining space serving ambitious nouvelle southern cuisine for lunch and dinner. Up front is a wine and spirits shop, a gourmet grocery and an upscale takeout deli. Plans are afoot for an extensive secluded patio. $$ p f h ✿

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VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station, this Euro-village inspired concept has two levels. The top (the Roost) will be a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge, with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs, at The Sea Hag, the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food style menu will be served lunch and dinner, with plans for weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with over 50 craft and import choices, and 55 bourbons that will mark inclusion on the Urban Bourbon Trail. $$$ p f h ✿

BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582-3220. Host Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican accent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty, at this sleek and sophisticated spot across Main from Slugger Field. A coffee house by day, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $ f h ✿

CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739.

Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿

BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this breakfast and lunch spot offers standard American café fare, and serves breakfast on Saturdays. $

CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿

BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fh✿ ADRIANN’S AROUND THE TABLE CUISINE 14041 Shelbyville Rd, 244-9695. Located out beyond the Snyder in the far East End, Adriann’s offers family style diner fare ranging from sandwiches and wraps to fried chicken $ ✿ ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ ✿ THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880.

This new coffee bar and café in Anchorage offers Counter Culture coffees and a small but eclectic menu of sandwiches, paninis and salads. Serving breakfast and lunch, with daily specials. $ f ✿ AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.

Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ h ✿ BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the U.S., and competitive with the best in Europe. Its comfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ p f ✿

BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1474. This tasteful little spot that offers teas and lighter lunch fare in an attractive old-house setting on Bardstown Road has opened a second ladies’ lunch spot inside Dolfinger’s in St Matthews. $ f ✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishops Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $$ f ✿

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm.

Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿ CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg, IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a restaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿ DOWNTOWN DINER & COFFEEHOUSE 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8680. $ DUELING GROUNDS CAFÉ 604 E. Spring St., New Albany, IN, 944-3617. This coffee bar “plus,” located

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in Destination’s Booksellers in downtown New Albany, serves up espresso-based drinks, teas and smoothies, as well as paninis and soups. Housebaked breads by the loaf and desserts are also part of the mix, as are vegetarian and vegan options on most menu items. Most items on the menu are under $4. $ e ✿ ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Fourth St., 587-9390, 455 S. Fourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FLEUR DE LIS CAFÉ 1574 Bardstown Rd., 456-6566.

Kyle and Jill Riggle bought the former Sweet ‘n’ Savory Café, and after a long winter and spring of renovation of the physical space and the concept of the restaurant, are now open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Look for an upgraded breakfast menu, and revamped lunch offerings crafted from locallysourced ingredients, and something new: a dinner menu with beer and wine. $$ p ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ f p KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2630.

Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ f ✿ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ PATTICAKES CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 238-7387.

Located in the Mellwood Arts Center, Patticakes serves homemade soups and sandwiches — and cake, of course. Owner Patti Fadel offers more than 50 varieties of pound cake! $ f✿ PATTICAKES & PIES CAFÉ 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8510. In downtown New Albany, this little storefront café serves breakfast and lunch, makes hearty paninis and salads, and bakes up cakes, pies, muffins for takeout. $ ✿ QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿ STOP LITE CAFÉ 1348 River Rd., 584-3746. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 8992008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Now well-settled in its new location just off East Broadway, The Café serves an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. And the new space retains the old place’s yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere. $ f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. $f✿ THE LUNCH PAIL 502 E. Warnock St., 634-7116.

Offering yet another quick and comforting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year-round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿ THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. With a menu featuring many vegetarian and 62 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

vegan options, this pleasant neighborhood eatery attracts loyal crowds with excellent fare and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e ✿ TIFFANY CELLAR CAFÉ 11601 Main, 245-4411. $ f ✿ VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 426-0020.

Norton Commons welcomes another eatery, a breakfast and lunch spot open early morning till mid-afternoon, serving breakfast and lunch at any of those hours. $$ f ✿ WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Breckenridge Ln., 454-5955.

For many years a Fern Creek landmark before a short move west, Whitney’s remains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. We recommend the “Grandpa style roast beef.” $ ✿ WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s third outlet. $ p ✿ WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ f YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0220. $ f h ✿ ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿

AHOY FISH HUT 2902 Bardstown Rd., 451-5508.

An upper Highlands outlet that has been delighting the neighborhood with fish tacos, fried and broiled cod, and homemade buttermilk pie. All dishes cooked to order — nothing hangs around under heat lamps. $ f ✿ BLUE LAGOON 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The Sharom family, who operate Zaytun Mediterranean Grill and Sharom’s on the Outer Loop, has a new seafood place, on the site of the old Diamante’s.

Hopes are high for an aquatic take on their falafel and hummus staples. $$ f h ✿ BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿ CATFISH HAVEN LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Catfish Haven, a simple, down-home eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ f CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition.

The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿

RED = ADVERTISER

HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ p f KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474.

Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work.

Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 2674633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ f e RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’s, where the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perfectly prepared. Known for their fish sandwich, daily specials take advantage of fresh product. $ ✿ ] CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN. Curtis Rader of Buck’s will be cooking steaks and sides in cast iron pans at his new moderately-priced steakhouse, located in the old Rocky’s Sub Pub building across from Jeffboat.

Opening in mid-November, Rader promises the ambience will be upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music.” $$$ h DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ p

p = FULL BAR f = OUTDOOR DINING e = LIVE MUSIC

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JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. (See listing under Fine Dining.)

JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The downtown setting doesn’t hurt either, on Waterfront Plaza at Main and Fourth, next to the Galt House. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes.

The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashvillebased chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 2312399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Be sure to bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $$ STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

(Green Tree Mall), Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy. 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 2809160, Jeffersonville, IN, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ APPLEBEE’S (7 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service.

It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ p h ✿ BIG BEN CAFÉ 10600 Meeting St., 749-6326. Handcrafted sandwiches, flatbread pizzas and fish and chips specials. Vegetarian and non-vegetarian soup of the day choices. $ h ✿ B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.

A popular hangout since its opening earlier this year, this Euro-style gastropub features French country cooking and house-made sausages and charcuterie in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late19th century building in Butchertown. $$ p e h ✿

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BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ p h ✿ BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearing tight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typical bar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encourage patrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winning corporate concept, don’t you think? $$ p h BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. New delivery and catering operations extends the brand beyond the three locations. $$ p f h ✿ BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132.

This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts excellent quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ h CAFÉ ENVY 570 S. Fourth St., 569-0508. During the day, it’s a lunchspot in the center of busy 4th Street, serving up sandwiches, fried shrimp and catfish, ribs and salads. At night, it’s a lounge with a dance floor, catering to the “mature adult crowd” between the ages of 30 and 45. Entertainment provided by DJs and live acts, overseen by the owners of JazzyBlu in Glassworks. $$ p f e ✿

COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. Hurricane Katrina blew chef Richard Lowe into town, bringing from New Orleans his Cajun/ Creole/Caribbean magic to Coach Lamp’s kitchen.

The restored 137-year-old building has a classic bar on one side and an upscale white-tablecloth dining room on the other side. $$$ f ✿ CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f EVA MAE’S CREEKSIDE 6313 River Rd., 614-6338.

One of a cluster of down-home style eateries just as River Road veers off into Prospect, Eva Mae’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The open, waterside dining room is down-home and laid back at lunch, but gets a little crowded and rowdy as the drinks-before dinner crowd stops in on the way home. Food and service can be erratic, but a lot of fans rave about ambience and the chow. $$ p f

CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p ✿

FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany, IN, 944-9958, 4320 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-7370, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshlygrilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’ roll sensibility. $ h

CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿

GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿

CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h

GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿

HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿

HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its longstanding reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ p f e h

CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ p ✿

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. The familiar IHOP franchise across the river has now been joined by another outlet along the franchise restaurant row on Hurstbourne. $ h ✿

CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ ✿

JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h

CHRISTY’S BAR & BISTRO 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy.

(InnPlace Hotel), 491-4830. $ p

KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646.

Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to

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open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $ p f KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 5833447. A serious restaurant hides behind the funky décor and madcap events (like the annual New Year’s Eve pajama party and the Ugly Lamp contest). The Bourbon Ball French toast beat Bobby Flay on a Throwdown. And everyone loves the fried green tomato BLT. The World of Swirl store in the front has been described as “Cracker Barrel on acid.” $$ p ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿ MAXWELL’S BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. The former Maggie’s, reopened under new ownership, providing more choice for casual, family-centered dining in the Jeffersontown area.

Salads, sandwiches, burgers, flatbread pizzas, honey-miso glazed salmon, Hot Browns, kabobs and a full bar. $$ p f h ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its reputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service.

The long-awaited rooftop patio is open and packing them in on warm evenings. $ p f e h ✿ MR. POLLO 3606 Klondike Ln., 618-2280. On a visit to Peru, the Cuban owners learned how to make pollo a la brasa, a brined, spiced and long-roasted Andean specialty. So they’ve brought a South American cuisine new to town, where you can buy quarter, half or whole chickens that are served with a spicy-creamy aji sauce and sides of fries and salad or Cuban black beans and rice. $ MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort.

Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoe-shaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports.

The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ p f h NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg, IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always freshly made.

Breakfast served until 2 p.m. — look for the bison sausage served with organic eggs. $$ p ✿ O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain

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operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif will be based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there will be a shop attached, where you can purchasing aprons, cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$$$ h ✿ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$ p h ✿ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Street Live 569-7782.

Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.

The Robin, a Seattle-based chain well regarded for “gourmet burgers” and trimmings, has now landed in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ p f h ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330. This Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first two Louisville properties are gaining popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for over 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners. You’ll now find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SIMPLY SPLENDID SALADS 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3373. Another pleasant spot for lunch or take-home dinner for shoppers and workers along the Shelbyville Road-Hurstbourne Parkway nexus.

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Choose from an interesting selection of huge salad bowls (Asian shrimp, tuna Nicosia, chicken Caesar) or piled-high crepe wraps (Philly cheese steak, vegetarian, Hawaiian chicken, chicken and Brie) for eat-in or take-away. $$ ✿

THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h

SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview Village Center, 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020.

Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ h ✿

ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 9200080. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville has its own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ f h

STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿ STEVIE B’S BURGERS & MORE 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN 288-8365. Located near WalMart and I-65. Stevie B’s lures hungry shoppers to dress their own burgers at the toppings bar. Or, fuel up on Philly cheesesteaks, cheese chicken sandwiches, or a quarter-pound chili dog. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿ TILTED KILT 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 409-8458. A franchise restaurant, notable for its skimpily plaidclad servers as much as its pub-style food. The aggressively cute menu offers “big-arse” burgers, various sandwiches, salads and wraps, entrées ranging from lasagna to “Longshanks” sausage platter to “Fat Bastard’s” meatloaf sandwich. Pizza and a short beer list are also available. $$ p h TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite housed in an old downtown theater building has opened a second location on New Albany’s growing restaurant row.

Chef George Morris’ simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f ✿ TOMMY LANCASTER’S RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. Value and variety are the strong points of this community tradition and the fare goes from burgers to steak.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café fare in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy. 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. It may be in the country, and you may feel far from the big city, until the food comes. Along with the requisite meat loaf and pork chops, you’ll find such ambitious fare as chicken buccatini and blackened scallops. $$ e ✿ 66 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿ CARLY RAE’S 103 W. Oak St. The Old Louisville corner place with the great fenced-in patio is reopening with the same name, but new owners, who will put their focus on Soul Food.

CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes.

Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h THE CHILI POT 8118 Preston Hwy., 966-9920. This Okolona outpost serves up chicken salad sandwiches, hot dogs, grilled cheese and garden salad.

Oh, and four kinds of chili: Louisville-style, green pork (with tomatillos), sirloin steak and white chicken. $ h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Now under new management by the Kreso family, Cottage Inn sports a bright new look, and it continues happily doling out the kind of excellent downhome food it has served for more than 70 years. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD FAMILY RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ RED = ADVERTISER

FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Jay’s Cafeteria lives on in Shively. Jay’s former owners are now serving up Southern Soul food at family-friendly prices. The mac and cheese is sticky and crusty, the cornmeal muffins are crunchy on the outside and melt-inyour-mouth inside. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿ GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville, IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026.

Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. Country cooking is Jessie’s specialty, with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Broadway, 772-7138.

This tiny, colorful West End eatery, open for takeout only, offers a vast selection of filling, affordable urban fare that ranges from hot-and-spicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LOUISVILLE GRILLE 612 S. Fifth St., 217-0000. Chef Michael Washington, veteran of Big Hopp’s, smokes pork and beef, fries and grills chicken, and catfish, and builds cold and hot sandwiches, salads and soups for diners at the corner of Fifth and Chestnut. $ MAMA’S TABLE 5019 Poplar Level Rd. 749-1939.

This family-style eatery, serving everything from fried bologna to steak and shrimp, is under new management and undergoing renovation, catering only until it reopens in mid- November. When it does, look for their two signature chicken wing dishes: blazing wings, and Grippo’s wings — seasoned to taste like the potato chip. $ MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both the Butchertown and new downtown location. $$ MR. LOU’S COUNTRY COTTAGE RESTAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s country cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ ✿

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O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410, 2835 Holmans Ln., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8133, 5612 Bardstown Rd., 239-2656. The original Our Best, a fine family restaurant in Henry County, is rapidly growing into a chain, with three properties in the big city now. $$ QUEENIE’S SOUL CUISINE 2956 Richland Ave., 451-4698. Queenie has been cooking for her 13 siblings since she was a teenager. Finally she is getting paid to do it. She and her son serve breakfast, lunch and dinner: chicken and waffles, meatloaf, a soul burrito, chicken (fried, smothered or baked) and daily specials. $$ f SWEET-TEE’S 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 966-0075. A modest little soul-food emporium, brimming with the aromas of Southern ambrosia: collard greens cooked with fatback, sweet potato pie, crusty ribs and slow-cooked pig’s feet. The chicken is fried while you wait, the way the customers like it. $ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round.

Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food.

Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.

On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. There is food and beverage service, but it is not a dinner theater. $$ h p e h ✿ DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h IMPROV COMEDY CLUB & WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Fourth St., 581-1332. The menu is no joke at this downtown club. Chow down on well-grilled steaks, fresh seafood and ribs that rank with the best in the city before the nationally-known comedy acts start. $$$ p f e h ✿ INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿ JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s

MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ p ✿ STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, roast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿ ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop.

Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ ✿ THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This little spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz since it opened last year. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ ✿

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BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $ p ✿ BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ f ✿ BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. The little Boombozz take-out joint at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane has moved across the street, taking over the former Patron’s space, and changing its name, becoming a Boombozz Taphouse in all but its name—and the fact that it will be serving beer in bottles only. Look for the Taphouse-style menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies. $$ h ✿ BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare.

Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded twice within a few months, with these sit-down pizza and taphouses The menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The newest venue, in Westport Village, has been attracting a varied crowd enjoying the hearty and well-crafted food, the excellent beer selection and the array of sporting events on the TVs. $$ p f h ✿ BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743.

Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $ h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 944-4942, 3093 Breckinridge Ln., 452-6700.

Serious bargain-hunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat. This Dallas-based chain serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730.

One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $ f e h ✿ DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 635-7994. $ DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424.

The former Karem’s Deli location in St. Matthews finally has a new tenant, serving pizza by the slice, as well as a mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers, including some BBC brews. $$ p f h ✿ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿

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FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040, 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-0840, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $ ✿

ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has opened a handsome new site near the new arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations.. $$$ p f h ✿

FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿

PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Square Shopping Center, 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ p f

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mudd Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 161 Outer Loop, 361-3444, 4607 Outer Loop, 964-7272, 12535 Shelbyville Rd., 2539191, 6756 Bardstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-7272, 2221 State St., New Albany IN, 945-7272. $$ ✿

LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr., 267-8600, 5622 Preston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111, 12418 LaGrange Rd., 241-5445. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿

PAPALINO’S 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Allan Rosenberg, who has cooked for several high-end restaurants, has opened this Highlands New York style pizza-by-the-slice place, to considerable enthusiasm. He offers just one size, an 18-incher, sold by the pie or the oversize slice, as well as calzones, breadsticks and a short list of salads and desserts. Choose from a dozen premium toppings, vegetarian and meaty, to go with the crispy crust. $

IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿

LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿ LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Preston St., 635-6708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NAKED PIZZA 139 Breckenridge Ln., 410-2211. The New Orleans carry-out and delivery chain backed by billionaire Mark Cuban has staked out the Louisville area for expansion. Its selling point in a saturated market is “healthy” pizza, made with unprocessed ingredients, a crust blended from “ancestral” whole grains, and probiotics for digestive health. The menu will also offer a glutenfree crust and all-natural soy cheese. $$ h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿

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PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 4264644.Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Avenue. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ ✿ PIZZA BY THE GUY 814 Lyndon Ln., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise, now in larger quarters, wins its fans’ praise for extra spicy sauce and handtossed dough. $ h ✿ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appelaton, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées.

Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana, and some hoppy draft as you contemplate the Louisville skyline. Or call in for delivery to Jeffersonville, Clarksville or Louisville. $pf✿ SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 631 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 469 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205, 13206 W. Hwy. 42, 228-9990. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd. After a long, slow expansion into the suburbs, this locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their

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massive pizza by the slice, has quickly expanded into St. Matthews.All three locations are open until 5 am nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. . $

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STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville, IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Preston Hwy., 634-5400. Friendly service and sizzling pies make this neighborhood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿ TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 Vieux Carre Dr., 4290606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$$$ ✿ TUBBY’S PIZZA 103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8870. Jeffersonville’s venerable quadrangle — it dates back to the Civil War — is the perfect setting for settling back over a pitcher of beer, a Hoosier-style pizza (sliced in squares) and catching a game on one of the wall-mounted flatscreen TVs. $$ h VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ p f e h ✿

Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h BUTCHER’S BEST MEATS & DELI 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ f CAFÉ ON FIFTH 239 S Fifth St., 585-2874. Formerly Down to Lunch, in the basement of the Kentucky Home Life Building. Standard good quality lunch fare of burgers, sandwiches and soups for the downtown business crowd. $ ✿ CAFÉ PALACIO 4010 Dupont Circle, 708-1818.

Serving lunch to workers in the Dupont area five days a week. $ ✿ CALISTOGA ARTISAN SANDWICHES 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3779, 401 E. Chestnut St., 561-9092. “Papa” John Schnatter, founder of the worldwide pizza chain that bears his name, is taking another shot at the fast-food world with the more upscale Calistoga Artisan Sandwiches that some have likened to Panera Bread. $ f ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿

WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333, 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 945-9425. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿

THE CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. $ f e ✿

WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708.

Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desires. $$ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ p ✿

DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carrots, bean sprouts, seeds and roots, think again. No animals were harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿

DERBY CITY DOGS 960 Baxter Ave., 561-2880. This walk-up hot-dog storefront serves Nathan’s brand all beef hot dogs with gourmet style toppings, bratwurst, corn dogs, veggie dogs, side dishes, ice cream and smoothies — they’ll even give your real doggie a treat if she’s along with you. Catering to the nightclub crowd, it’s open until 5 a.m. on the weekends. $ f h ✿

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿

CONEZ & CONEYZ 2716 1/2 Frankfort Ave., 8977222. As the name suggests, this new place in the former Café Glacé space is about ice cream (“conez”) and hot dogs (“coneyz,” a bit more of a stretch). The selection includes hot dogs and sausages, soft-serve cones and other desserts. A few small tables, but mostly takeaway service. $ f h

DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 583-3828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f

BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ail Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $

DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 980 Breckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354.

This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee.

At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿

BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing.

EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a

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bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ f ✿ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ ✿ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany, IN, 941-9426. $ JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830.

East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 967 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany, In. 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-6700. This national sandwichshop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ f h ✿ JOE DAVOLA’S 901 Barret Ave., 690-5377. Near the government center in the lower Highlands, this popular sandwich shop features healthful choices for lunch. $ ✿ LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 4547831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semifast food. $ f ✿ LIL’ LOAFERS BAKERY 8522 Preston Hwy., 9693990. For years, hairdresser Sheryl Lukenbill used to bake banana breads and other treats as gifts for her customers. Her goodies were so popular that now Sheryl and her husband Paul have gone fulltime with Lil’ Loafers Bakery. $ ✿ LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-7567. Every city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef.

Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs, and burgers, in a joint that seems like a throwback to the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ ✿ LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 1034 Bardstown Rd., 4512965. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $

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LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit prepares its share of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ ✿

QUIZNO’S SUBS (12 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ RED’S 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” has thoroughly refurbished the former Picnicaters into a spotless “hot-daug stand” offering gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Take away, or sit at one of the nine stools lining the little building and watch the passing parade. $ f ✿ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿ SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ ✿

MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 587-2353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ ✿

SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿

NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.

An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ ✿

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $✿

NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Orders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dropping in to someone’s home for lunch. Soups salads and freshly made sandwiches are uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿ PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ ✿ PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿

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THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075.

The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 581-9200. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places

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in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’s reasonably priced Western Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ ET’S MEMPHIS BAR-B-Q 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 280-2227. Memphis style brisket and pulled pork. Sides of creamy sweet coleslaw and hearty smoked beans. Afterwards, try the blackberry cobbler ala mode. $$ f FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that FireFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223, 1202 Bardstown Rd., 384- 8077. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. Now with a second venue in the old NV Bar Grill (next to the Wine Market) on Bardstown Road. $ p f h HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-4490.

Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the premises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 285-1998. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smoky Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $

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RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e h SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. House specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422.

A new smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this TexMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the Smoketown neighborhood. Ribs are juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood.

241-9227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops.

Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name remains on this neighborhood joint out the road in Oldham County. $

BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2542322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-5496, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 285-9464. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ h BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e BIG BLUE COUNTRY 426 Baxter Ave., 585-2583. A sports bar catering to UK fandom (and also the “official” home for Indianapolis Colts followers).

There’s a pizza buffet, a selection of flavored breadsticks (including dessert sticks), the typical snack fare of wings, nachos, calamari and so forth.

Also salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ p f BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0029. $ p f h BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing.

A game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ p f e h CHAMPIONS SPORTS RESTAURANT 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246.

Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h CORNER DOOR BAR & GRILL 2222 Dundee Rd., 708-2885. A bright, new addition to the Douglass Loop featuring craft brews on tap, a tasteful selection of wine, and reasonably priced food, including the signature Zip Burger and ribbon fries. The Facebook page also boasts “the best-looking bartenders and wait staff in the Highlands.” $ p f h DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿ DONEGAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 938 Baxter Ave., 562-1234. Another bar and grill has been added to the Revelers’ Row along Baxter in the Highlands, with 42 craft and import beers on tap, and a full service lunch and dinner menu ready to be phased in. $ p f e h FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a Wichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiard tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿ GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e h ✿ GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $

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GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f h ✿ INDIGO JOE’S SPORTS PUB & RESTAURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1633. Louisville’s first outpost of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’s is a family-friendly American-style sports bar. It features large portions and 44 flat-screen televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the sporting event of their choice. $$ p f JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e h ✿ JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿ MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Longstanding blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ p e h MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full service restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 945-8915. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ p f h RUMBALL’S FAMILY SPORTS BAR 5901 Terry Rd., 365-2781, 10000 Hwy. 22, 327-5496. A familycentered sports bar, with a welcome focus on scratch cooking (the chicken strips are cut in-house from actual chicken breasts) with a “Little League Menu” to appeal to the small fry. Along with wraps and salads, the regulars like the deep-fried burger. $$ p f h SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿ SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337.

Sergio built up a loyal following in his Shelbyville location, so that may account for the stealth presence he has established in his new Butchertown digs: minimal signage, a quirky Web site, an aura of haughty mystery. If you can locate the place, it almost seems as if you need a secret word to enter. What you 72 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

really need is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ h ✿ SLAMMER’S SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2800 Crums Ln., 618-3588. A kid-friendly sports bar, with 20 large flat screens and one huge (110-inch) one.

Expect a reasonably-priced pub menu (ribs, burgers, sandwiches) and plenty of opportunity to drink beer while catching any game you want. $ p f e h SONNY’S ISLAND GRILL & THE BAMBOO LOUNGE 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. Take an island vacation just across the river. The chef of this new river front restaurant hails from Hawaii, and plans a fresh seafood option each weekend. Above the first floor grill the Bamboo Lounge provides couches, a pool table, TVs and live music. $$ p f e h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramont Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ p f h ✿ THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ p h ✿ SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ p h STEINERT’S 401 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 9458827. The name has been on the Southern Indiana restaurant/bar scene since 1880. The newest incarnation, amid the booming New Albany Main Street area, features family-style dining until 9 p.m., in a room adjoining the bar, with live music, open-mic nights and other late-evening entertainment. $ p e h SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h

2 Theater Square, 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 5620007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Now serving at a third restaurant site near the new arena. $ p f e ✿ BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., (See listing under Bistros.)

CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033.

Not just another in the herd of all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this 350 seat eatery is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿ 8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿

THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-0659.

One of the city’s friendliest pubs lost one of its long-time owners, Mike Ewing, recently, but his partner John Dant is keeping his spirit alive at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h

ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿

VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 9444338. $

ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ ✿

ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ p f h ✿

AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ p f ✿

BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany, IN, 725-9585. With long-time Le Relais souschef Joshua Lehman at the helm, the food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has sharpened into Belgian-style bistro cuisine. Mussels and frites will always be available, and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ p f ✿ BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739,

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BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range.

Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ ✿ CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ ✿ CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿

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CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿

generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ ✿

CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ ✿

HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ ✿

CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿

HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿

HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿

JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 8930822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ ✿

CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-5580. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buffet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿ DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The continuing proliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to report that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4591259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ph✿ EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater.

Outstanding. $$ p ✿ EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿ FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿

HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿ JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventurous side with a selection of more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿ JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188.

Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188.

Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898.

Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-0188.

Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ p ✿

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿

ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿

GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out,

PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿

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PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ h ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ ✿ TASTE OF ASIA 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1111. A short but appetizing menu covers four nations: Japan, Vietnam, Thailand and China. Choose from potstickers, lettuce wraps, chicken satay or egg rolls. Or maybe Thai and Vietnamese dinner-size soups, nine choices of sushi roll, or stir-fry over steamed or fried rice or lo mein noodles. $ ✿ TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ f ✿ UMAI ZUSHI BUFFET 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 3298181. $ ✿ WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ ✿ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿ YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY WOK 1801 Priority Way., 266-5801. $ h ✿

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $

ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.

This small room in a new St. Matthews building houses this neighborhood sushi spot where awardwinning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿ BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿ BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

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CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ ✿ DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at this popular new café at the corner of Bardstown Road and Elmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $pf✿ FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$ p ✿ FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9538. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant is drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿ MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar, cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ MIDORI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Japanese fare joins the options in the Whittington Parkway/Hurstbourne area with the arrival of this new venue. Expect Japanese standards — udon soup, teriyaki beef and sukiyaki — along with sushi. $$ p ✿ MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ p f h ✿ OASIS JAPANESE RESTAURANT 3311 Preston Hwy., 375-8766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya sushi restaurant have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ h ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sapporo,

RED = ADVERTISER

has been attracting raves from neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite has opened a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ ✿ SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ p h ✿ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Now it has a second location downtown in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway. $$$ p h ✿ SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿ WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions.

Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce $$ h ✿

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ p ✿ SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029.

Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿

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MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $ f h ✿ LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿

SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, offering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿

PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ ✿

TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ ✿

SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. The former Lemongrass Café changed ownership and its name (twice), but continues to serve up tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare in the heart of St. Matthews. Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are on the menu. $$ ✿

THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 493-4073. This location has been known for good Thai restaurants, and the short history of Thai Orchids shows that they have picked up the mantle, providing Jeffersontown-area lovers of southeast Asian cuisine with excellent noodles and curries. $$ ✿ THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿

VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114.

Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes.$ f ✿

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919.

Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the

owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 636-0749. The owners of the popular Germantown watering hole Nachbar have taken over the old Jockamo’s location on the corner of Goss and Kreiger, and opened Eiderdown, where they will serve Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads. $$ ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177.

Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$

BRENDAN O’SHEA’S OF ST. MATTHEWS 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. This St. Matthew outpost of the O’Shea’s Irish bar empire reeks with atmosphere. The brick walls look aged, the wood weathered and photos of old St. Matthews line the walls. Irish and non-Irish love the bar and the menu has daily specials, like the leprechaun hangover burger, catfish po’ boy and bison and goat cheese lasagna. $$ p e h ✿

THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿

JAPANESE

GRILL

TRUE THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. A bright, attractive little place (just 4 tables) run by a former employee of Thai-Siam, one of Louisville’s longest running Thai restaurants. 30 standard Thai dishes (pad thai, curries, fried rice) priced under $10. $ ✿

AND

SUSHI

SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550 649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. A fire last winter gutted the former location to the walls, but resourceful owner Phat Le recently reopened in the old Lentini’s building and is once again serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and panAsian dishes to happy regulars. $ p h ✿ CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.

A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany, IN. Filling the spot recently vacated by Studio’s Grille and Pub, The Irish Exit (a tongue-incheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) will be serving pub fare and entertain patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ p h IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ p f ✿ MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿ O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor.

Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ p f e h ✿ PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This newest downtown creation of the Flanagan’s/ O’Shea’s pub mini-empire has beautifully refurbished one of the old warehouses just east of the new stadium, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ p f e h ✿

with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ COZZA OSTERIA ENOTECA 214 Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4406. Italian fusion cuisine is what owner Al Papsodero is offering in the pleasant space that once housed Timothy’s. That’s the kind of Italian cooking done in Brooklyn, Al’s hometown. Sample dishes: chicken Modena, salmon piccatta, fennel-roasted organic pork loin, rigatoni pomodoro. $$ f p h ✿ DIFABIO’S CASAPELA 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411.

Ray Parrella’s is gone, but almost immediately DiFabio’s Casapela snuck into the old Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the redchecked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccatta, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ f ✿ THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ ✿

RI RA IRISH PUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ p f e h ✿

LA BOCCA 132 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 7259495. A new addition to the dining explosion in New Albany, La Bocca has moved into the site of the former Conner’s Place, serving Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ f p ✿

SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919, 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. Now with a second location out in Buechel. $ p f e h ✿

LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ f

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ f ✿ AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Scott and Sharon Risinger serve satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ p f ✿ ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr., 326-5555. $ ✿ BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552.

Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ h ✿ BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served

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MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. The successful formula of this Ohiobased chain features hearty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas served up in a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria.

An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ p f h ✿ MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. (See review under Fine Dining.)

OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿

RED = ADVERTISER

PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ p ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) $$$$ p e h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secured Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining. The recent addition of U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has been receiving rave reviews. $$$ p f ✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955.

Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿ LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179.

Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndonarea restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish.

Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ p ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojitos quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461.

Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ p f ✿

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BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4258892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿ DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 4793353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentilbattered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabi-style (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿ TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. The owners of the old India Palace have opened a new restaurant in the space vacated by the Goose Creek outlet of Seviche. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ ✿

A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. A recent name change now reflects what this Southern Indiana eatery has always done well, serving up authentic Greek gyros and side dishes.

Open April through November only. $ f ✿ AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ BURNING BUSH GRILLE & MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ f ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ CAPTAIN PEPPER JACK’S AERO BISTRO 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 454-2777. The name, the travel posters, the location near Bowman Field all contribute to the aeronautical mood. The menu

itself flies all over the world, too, from Americanstyle fried chicken and bar food to Caribbean plantains with mango marmalade to Middle Eastern kabobs and gyros. $$ p h ✿ CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. Joining the growing ranks of Louisville’s Persian restaurants, this small Highlands dining room is gaining good word-of-mouth for well-prepared food and cordial service. $ ✿ DEJLAH BISTRO 4130 Oechsli Ave., 895-8882.

Authentic Iraqi cuisine joins the choices in the mini restaurant row off Shelbyville Road in St. Matthews, replacing the short-lived La Catalana. Freshly prepared and delicately-seasoned Iraqi kabobs with chicken, lamb and beef, and Middle Eastern favorites such as hummus, baba ghanoush and other mezze are on the menu. $$ h ✿ THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774.

Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ f ✿ ISTANBUL CAFÉ 1511 Bardstown Rd., 742-6680.

Ahmet Kunt, of Istanbul Palace on Goose Creek Road, has added a casual eatery, in the space that formerly housed Pizza Roma. Look for lahmacun, a Turkish flat bread topped with meat, and a variety of “pita-pizzas,” including one topped with falafel and hummus. $$ h ✿ ISTANBUL PALACE 2840 Goose Creek Rd.,425-6060.

Turkish cuisine comes to suburban Louisville.

Many dishes will be familiar, for the eastern Mediterranean populations share a lot of culinary ideas. You’ll find pita and hummus and lentil soup, gyros, falafel, taboulleh and baba ghanoush. But also mujver (zucchini fritters) and iskender and doner (variations on kebabs) and other truly Turkish foods, such as cigarette pie — phyllo pastry rolled around tangy feta cheese and herbs and deep-fried. $$ f h ✿ LITTLE JERUSALEM 3825 Taylor Blvd., 6181806. This Shively-area Middle Eastern restaurant has acquired a loyal following for its hummus, chicken and rice plates, falafel and gyros. $ f ✿ OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 4543737. This Hikes Point spot, run by a friendly Moroccan couple, offers a variety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eastern accent. A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $ OMAR’S FAST FOOD RESTAURANT 1272 S. Preston St., 637-1515. Comfort food south-east Asian style.

The owner’s wife brings family recipes and culinary study in Pakistan to bear on familiar fare such as chicken korma, chicken handi and biryani, and the Omar kebab, made with ground beef, onions and tomatoes. $ ✿ PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and felafel. $$ ✿ PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy

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ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now comes twice to Louisville. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ ✿

Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ ✿ PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ h ✿

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096, Fourth Street Live, 5899245, 3115 S. Second St., 363-8888, 13301 Magisterial Dr., 326-3070, 8603 Citadel Way, 4934720. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ f

SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Although Majid Ghavami has sold his interest in his downtown Persian restaurant, he sold it to Reza and Mimi Dabbagh, (she also co-owns August Moon), who are keeping on most of the staff and continuing with the popular menu: rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ p ✿ SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿

JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ p f h

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. Offering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly grew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful storefront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ ✿ ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands Middle Eastern eatery—excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $ h ✿

COCOS LOKOS CARIBBEAN CUISINE 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. You can find a taste of the Caribbean islands here: mofongo from Puerto Rico (grilled chicken over plantains), lechon adobado

(Cuban roast pork), tostones, yucca, sweet potato fries and dishes with a Dominican accent. Chill out with tropical cocktails at the bar. $$ p e ✿ CUBA LIBRE 1725 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-9000. The singular joys of Cuban cuisine can now be found on the sunny side of Louisville. Partners Leo Lopez and Nairobi Aparcedo and chef Rafael Hernandez serve up traditional Cuban dishes such as pernil de puerco asado — slow roasted pork marinated in citrus juices, garlic and Cuban spices — tostones, congris — seasoned black beans and white rice — and tamales, all priced under $10. Look for daily specials, like paella. $$ h ✿ CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 409-4828. The long-vacant space once occupied

by Danielle’s now offers another outlet for Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnic offerings in town. The owners plan to use local, seasonal food sources to offer weekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/Central American food traditions.$ p ✿ HABANA BLUES CUBAN TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9760.

Another choice for Cuban Caribbean food, Habana Blues is the newest tenant in the one-time New Albany Inn, previously the location of Bistro New Albany. The extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ p ✿ HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $ p f ✿ NILE RESTAURANT 5312 S. Third St., 384-9030. $ p h

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907-C S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ f ✿ CANCUN MEXICAN GRILL 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e ✿ DON PABLO’S 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, offers full bar service and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿ EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿

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EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿

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authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249. This modest little eatery used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family from Mexico, it’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL REY MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’s more Mexican-American than hard-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns our recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food environment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿ EL RODEO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ p ✿ EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run

by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ p ✿ EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272, 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿ ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the

first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ p f e ✿ FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ p ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 336 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 113 Grant Line Ctr., 9487967. Popularity with patrons happy to eat the authentic traditional Mexican fare at this Southern Indiana restaurant has led to their recent move to a huge space in downtown, nearer the action in the New Albany restaurant renaissance. The Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria fare. $f✿ LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront has opened a second location, both offering memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p ✿ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland

Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿ LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find.

Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450.

Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p ✿ MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán has returned to his original location in the burgeoning NuLu gallery district, and updated it into a stylish bistro. The distinctive cuisine, from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, treats pork, scallops, mussels and even lima beans memorably. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ MEXICANO 6911 Shepherdsville Rd., 962-8526.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ ✿ MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880. $ ✿ MY PATRIA 808 Lyndon Ln., 339-9420. $ ✿ PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have

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another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ p ✿ PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Curch Rd., 239-4646. $$ p ✿ QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (11 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ✿ ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown.

Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ ✿ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿ SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581. These three MexicanAmerican eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿ SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St. Saul Garcia is expanding his newer chain (he also runs Los Aztecas) onto the W. Main corridor, a block or so from the Yum! Center. Expect a broader Mexican menu, familiar dishes, along with some pleasant surprises. $ p h ✿ TACO BUENO 2350 Shane Dr., 493-2008. This growing Texas-based chain, a competitor to Taco Bell, now has a location in the Louisville metro.

Early reports declare it “better than the Bell.” $ f ✿ TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ ✿ TACOS TOREADOS MEXICAN TAQUERIA 9109 Galene Dr., 468-3524. The Lyndon-based taco truck has settled down just outside Jeffersontown, serving up its authentic, budget-priced Mexican fare. $ ✿ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿ THE TEQUILA FACTORY 917 Baxter Ave., 459-9191.

The multi-level building on Baxter Ave.’s restaurant corridor has had a checkered history. Its newest incarnation is a bar and grill with an extensive list of tequilas, a tapas bar, and an economical lunch and dinner menu focusing on hearty, familiar Mexican dishes. $ p f e h ✿ YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs, IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana Tex-Mex restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ p h ✿

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CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Center, 327-3033. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” with 22 properties, has opened its largest location in the old Bahama Breeze space, promising a fun atmosphere, with a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ p f h ✿ MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ p f ✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (15 locations).

Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern fare adds steaks and grilled fare to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in droves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ e h ✿ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿ DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’s roster of serious coffee shops, Derby City features quality coffee from several artisanal roasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers. $ f e ✿ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ f e ✿ GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ f e

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HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9388. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f HILLBILLY TEA 120 S. First St., 587-7350. (See review under Bistro / Contemporary.)

THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B U.S. Hwy. 42, 2922710, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Fourth Street Live, 561-2041, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129.

Its move to Bardstown Road updated its image, but faithful fans find that the joe is still fine, as are the pastries, and everyone lingers, with laptops and books. $ RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911.

The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ ✿ SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f ✿ SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTERY 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee, another in the growing cadre of espresso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿ THIRD STREET COFFEE HOUSE 711 S. Third St., 749-0026. $ f TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VT’S BUBBLE CUP 1043 Bardstown Rd., 452-8899.

Tea houses are a new rage. This Highlands place features a cute variation, bubble tea — a tapiocabased soft drink. Japanese teens love it. $ h ✿ ZEN TEA HOUSE 2246 Frankfort Ave., 618-0878.

Another entry in the Tran family’s Frankfort Ave. restaurant row. There is tea, of course, black, green, and white and herbal infusions, spring rolls, soups, and paninis, all vegetarian. $ f e h ✿

p = FULL BAR f = OUTDOOR DINING e = LIVE MUSIC

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GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573, 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4422. $ ✿ ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿ CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f ✿ CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940. Erika Chavez-Graziano has been working some small miracles at the back of this Highlands coffee shop, turning out luscious, inventive chocolate confections that she sells at various venues around town, as well as at Quills.

Her 365 Days of Chocolate project has gained her considerable notice with weird-sounding but delicious creations such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ f

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6000. $ HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany, IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ THE PIE PANTRY 9208 Dixie Hwy., 384-0743.

Lunch is served at this Southwest Louisville eatery but the main focus — and the strongest reason to drive out that way — is the dozens of varieties of homemade pies. Portions are large and the selection extensive. $ f ✿

THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979. A newfashioned ice-cream parlor in the Westport Village Center that has captured the fancy of customers from the start, which was in the winter, so that seems to say something about the classy décor, the oft-changing flavor selections in the freezer (salty caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter) and the rich, house-made desserts (cookies, cheesecakes, pies and brownies). $ h

PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿

THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ ✿

POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880.

The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $

DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. Eat in or take away. $

SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite doughnuts by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. $ ✿

THE DESSERT GALLERY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 326-0700. You’ll find just about anything you could want in the way of a dessert at this East End shopping center storefront, from cakes to brownies and cookies, and it’s all hand-made from natural ingredients. $

THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 8954554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿

DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ ✿

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 93 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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Shake it. Or stir.

WE MAKE OUR BOURBON CAREFULLY. PLEASE ENJOY IT THAT WAY. Maker’s Mark® Bourbon Whisky, 45% Alc./Vol. ©2010 Maker’s Mark Distillery, Inc. Loretto, KY 96 Winter 2010 www.foodanddine.com

Find us on Facebook®: facebook.com/MakersMark Facebook is a registered trademark of Facebook, Inc.

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Louisville’s favorite spot for Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch

‘‘Wild Eggs ... I Think I Love You.’’

DUTCHMAN’S LANE WESTPORT VILLAGE

✮ LANDIS LAKES TOWNECENTER ✮ OPEN ✮ NOV. 15 ✮ crackinwildeggs.com