Winter 2012 (Vol. 38)

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WE MEAN BUSINESS

502 217 6360 702 W Main St : Louisville KY : 40202 proofonmain.com

Located at A proud stop along the Urban Bourbon Trail

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WINTER 2012 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH ONLINE EDITOR STEVE COOMES COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FOREMAN SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS TODD ANTZ CARLA CARLTON GORDON “GORDO” JACKSON JOHN JOHNSON GREG GAPSIS KATY YOCOM CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE BART WHITEHOUSE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: Rye’s soft egg, ricotta and broccoli rabé toast. (see story page 38) Photo by Dan Dry 4

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contents

WINTER 2012 - VOLUME 38

32

RESTAURANT GUIDE

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DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

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Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

FEATURES

38

NULU REDUX Along East Market, in the NuLu district, they aren’t just creating dining venues: They are working to create a community.

16

CHEF Q & A: Two chefs — Josh Moore of Volare and Rick Adams of The Exchange Pub + Kitchen — answer some questions you’ve always wanted to ask.

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COLUMNS STARTERS

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COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

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HUMOR A new power is rising — and this is the story of the made-up holiday that must be told.

FOOD $10 CHALLENGE: Coals Artisan Pizza

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A couple of $10 bills go a long way for two people having lunch at Coals Artisan Pizza.

EASY ENTERTAINING: Just Desserts

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Because without dessert, what would our New Year’s resolution be?

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FROM THE EARTH: The Ham Belt

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Cured country ham is practically synonymous with Kentucky, and if one Kentucky chef is correct, it just might make the state famous.

LIQUIDS HIP HOPS: Localism + Beer Craft beer: when thoughts turn to local options.

CORK 101: 6 picks under $12

14 28

We’ve assembled a crack team of oenophiles to guide you toward proper wine picks for any holiday occasion.

30

COFFEE: 8 Tips Some simple guidelines to help you produce a memorable cup of joe at home.

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starters comings & goings

comings

&

goings

As winter approaches, as the vegetative earth hunkers down, retreating into abeyance, as living things hibernate (or wish they could), so the lively roundelay of the Louisville restaurant scene also arrives at a season of relative quiet.

The numbers themselves might seem to undercut that assessment, but as we all know from the recent election season, numbers alone can be misleading. Sixteen new restaurants have opened in the last three months, or are imminently expected to do so, and five other existing restaurants have opened or will soon open new outlets. But two of those are outlets of the Mellow Mushroom pizza chain that have been on the horizon for a while in St. Matthews and Middletown. Another is Highlands Taproom Grill, a restaurant extension of the popular beer bar that has been open long enough to be reviewed in The Courier-Journal.

NEW TABLES Michael Crouch, longtime chef at Bourbons Bistro, will be moving into the space recently vacated by L&N Wine Bar and Bistro at 1765 Mellwood Avenue with a new concept called Bistro 1860 Wine Bar (referring to the date the building was constructed). Crouch plans a three-tiered menu — tasting, appetizer and small entrée portions, appropriately priced — so tables of diners can explore the options, sharing dishes or not, at reasonable prices. Look for the opening sometime in late November.

Long absent from the restaurant scene after selling Jack Fry’s, Susan Seiller returns with Relish at 1346 River Road, where she plans to develop an eat-in and take-out menu of fresh, hearthealthy dishes, hoping to tap the downtown riverfront and River Road commuter markets. Relish will be a luncheon spot at first; if she finds a steady clientele, she hopes to expand into breakfast.

Soon after the last issue of F&D published, the Highlands Taproom Grill opened at 1058 Bardstown Road, which has set a new standard for bar food. And Funmi’s African Restaurant has reopened further out Bardstown Road at 3028, offering modern interpretations of Nigerian and West African cuisine.

St. Matthews is getting a few more dining choices with the opening of Bluegrass BBQ at 119 St. Matthews Avenue and Mellow Mushroom at 3920 Shelbyville Road. A second outlet of that pizza chain is at 805 Blankenbaker Parkway.

On the sunny side of Louisville, Jeffersonville residents can sate their appetite for raw fish and cold rice wrapped in seaweed at Star Sushi, 2781 Jefferson Centre Way. Or, they can find interesting baked goods — muffins, breakfast breads, cookies and brownies — at Orange Clover Kitchen & More, 590 Missouri Avenue, 6

Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

devised by the former sous chef at NA Exchange, Rachel Smallwood.

Charlestown Train Station Seafood offers family fried fish fare at 1041 Highway 62, Charlestown; commuters to and from the Knobs can get pizza at La Bocca Pizzeria, 2708 Paoli Pike, New Albany; and hipsters can enjoy a puff on a hookah and throw back a beer at The Warehouse Hookah Bar & Café, 504 State Street, New Albany.

Back in the Louisville suburbs, the Genghis Grill, a chain outlet serving up a facsimile of Asian and Mongolian dishes, has opened at 4002 Town Center Drive, and the Copper Cupcake serves baked goods and more to the new urbanists at 10616 Meeting Street, Norton Commons.

For those who need a sugar fix, State Donuts is frying and glazing at 12907 Factory Lane, and singing fudgemakers (really) are tuning up at The Fudgery, 416 S. Fourth Street in the Fourth Street Live! district.

After two successful years enticing downtown diners with an eclectic French-inspired menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes (as well as good gelato and preposterously artistic chocolates and pastries), Ghyslain is expanding with a second store in Westport Village, 1215 Herr Lane. And Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen continues to build its local empire with its ninth location, at 3113 Blackiston Mill Road in New Albany.

And finally, two lunch/soup and sandwich chains, Zaxby’s and Zoe’s Kitchen (what is it with the Zs?), have found enough traction to expand a bit. Zoe’s has totally rebuilt the site of the much-lamented Stan’s Fish Sandwich at 3723 Lexington Road, and Zaxby’s is opening two new locations, at 5025 Mud Lane and 2870 Technology Avenue in New Albany.

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CLOSINGS The number of restaurant closings also needs a bit of interpretation. Two names shared the same address — Mozz and NuLu East Market Lounge. Those oncevibrant efforts by long-time chef and restaurateur Michael Antonovich are the most notable closings.

One other restaurant that closed — Intermezzo Café & Cabaret at Actors Theatre — will soon reopen as a totally re-imagined concept by notable local restaurateur Edward Lee. So — on to the specifics.

The sudden implosion of Mozz Mozzarella Bar & Enoteca and the NuLu East Market Lounge that shared the building at 445 E. Market Street reveals how hard it can be to keep a high-concept restaurant humming. Mozz, with its fresh mozzarella bar and ambitious menu intentions, coupled with the glitz of the NuLu Lounge, needed to maintain high standards and attract a steady crowd, and when those vital requirements slipped, the business couldn’t survive.

At the western end of the downtown arts corridor (316 W. Main Street), Actors Theatre’s basement food and libation space, most recently dubbed Intermezzo Café & Cabaret, is under complete renovation, to be reopened under the creative control of 610 Magnolia’s Edward Lee. Details are scarce just yet about what Lee envisions, but theater patrons look forward with happy anticipation.

The other restaurant closings bespeak the hard work and good luck that is needed to stay afloat. Several small ethnic restaurants lacked one or the other, or were otherwise unable to distinguish themselves from the herd. Café Palacio, 4010 Dupont Circle, Alexzander Taqueria, 8206 National Turnpike, El Rodeo Mexican Restaurant, 9070 Dixie Highway, Las Palmas Cuban Bakery & Café, 4806 Bardstown Road, El Toro, 1810 S. Hurstbourne Parkway and Thai Orchids, 9114 Taylorsville Road, all have closed.

Two Dixie Highway homestyle restaurants have folded: Jessie’s Family Restaurant at 9609 and Straight Out Da Kitchen at 1610. Lunch Today at 590 Missouri Avenue in Jeffersonville, Ind., Old Louisville Coffee house, 4956 Manslick Road, Rumball’s Family Sports Bar, 5901 Terry Road and Buffalo Wings & Rings, 2610 Chamberlain Lane, have also closed. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012

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In the downtown area, Home Plate CafÊ across from Slugger Field at 400 E. Main Street couldn’t seem to generate enough traffic once baseball season ended, and The PBJ Shop, 440 S. Third Street could not persuade enough lawyers and city bureaucrats to indulge their inner child at lunch.

In Old Louisville Carly Rae’s, 103 W. Oak Street, and Stop Lite CafÊ at 1348 River Road, are no more.

There have been a few pullbacks by multisite players. The inconsistent appetites of U of L students for Allen Rosenburg’s Papalino’s Pizza caused him to close his store at 337 W. Cardinal Blvd. and retrench to the original Highlands location only until a better spot for expansion comes available. Likewise, Butterfly Garden could not attract enough business at the Dolfinger’s site at 4600 Shelbyville Road and has contracted to just its longtime Bardstown Road home.

Habana Blues Tapas, 2813 N. Hurstbourne Parkway, has closed, as has La Rosita, 252 E. Market Street. Each still has one location open and serving. Yafa CafÊ at 1489 S. Fourth Street and Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade at 4918 Poplar Level Road have both closed, also leaving one location each.

On the chain front, the Shoney’s at 811 Eastern Parkway succumbed to the pressure from Denny’s a block away and has closed, leaving two other locations around town. J. Gumbo’s at 3115 S. Second Street has called it quits, leaving five locations of the local fast-food Cajun concept. And Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen closed the store at 1370 Veterans Parkway in Clarksville, but the opening of a new store in New Albany makes it a wash, still with nine locations.

MOVES & CHANGES And, finally, two name changes, one of which is coupled with a location change.

NA Exchange, which was out at 3306 Plaza Drive, New Albany, will move into town, to 118 W. Main Street, New Albany, to a sumptuously renovated historic building. The new name will be Exchange Pub + Kitchen, but the focus on American style bistro gastropub will remain.

Also rebranding itself is River Bend Winery, which has become Old 502 Winery, although it will remain at its 122 S. Tenth Street location, to continue its winemaking efforts, along with its hearty bar and dining menus. F&D

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humor

BY JAY FOREMAN

Thankspigging

the beginning of a new tradition

On November 22 most Americans will sit down to a Thanksgiving dinner. They will eat turkey with gravy, mashed potatoes, dressings and casseroles. They will finish with pumpkin pie, wipe their mouths, and push back from the table, thinking that they have had a good meal.

They are wrong.

A new power is rising: Thankspigging. And this is the story of the made-up holiday that must be told.

It began with a spark of divine intervention. While browsing the bins of medicine-ball sized frozen turkeys a few years back, my friend Teddy was struck by the fact that turkey, frankly, is boring. An avid pit master and pork devotee, he recognized — correctly — that the pig was a far tastier creature. But with hundreds of years of tradition and millions in marketing behind it, Thanksgiving was not going to easily give up the bird. Being a man of action, Teddy approached me with the concept of a new holiday, a better holiday; a holiday that involved not bland, cottony wads of corporate fowl but deliciously decadent pigs. The term “Thankspigging” was coined, and it has since become a special occasion we celebrate every year. I wish to share it with you in the hopes of spreading the good word, and to hopefully bring new participants into the fold.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THANKSPIGGING “As God took rib from Man and Made Woman, Man took Rib from Pig and Made Thankspigging.”

— Thankspigging Proverb, Author Unknown

Thankspigging is more than an excuse for porcine indulgence; it is a celebration of the joys of life’s blessings. Take the Pig. Why else would God have given us such a tasty animal if he in his divine wisdom did not wish us to slow-smoke his providence over hardwood charcoal with perhaps a nice garlic and peach glaze?

Thankspigging is held the day after the Holiday Who Must Not Be Named. It combines the best of both worlds — leftover side dishes, along with slow-smoked pork butts and ribs. Add some homemade beer, special pig-shaped hats and door prizes, good friends who happen to be in town for the holidays, and you have all the ingredients for a great time. Below is some of the history and lore, completely made-up of course, surrounding this most delicious of occasions.

10 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

THANKSPIGGING FAQs Q: What is Thankspigging?

A: Thankspigging is a joyous festival that predates the Puritanical farce of “Thanksgiving.”

It is celebrated on the Fourth Friday of the Eleventh Month, when the Pig-star shines most brightly in the November sky.

Q: Where did Thankspigging come from?

A: Thankspigging’s roots stretch back before the Dark Ages of Europe and remain shrouded in the mists of time.

Much of our knowledge is apocryphal, but its earliest practitioners seem to have been the Druids. Serious scholarship of Thankspigging has emerged as a respectable course of study in the finer universities such as Harvard, and archeological finds continue to shed more light on the subject.

Q: Not having reliable chronometers, how did the Druids know to celebrate Thankspigging?

A: Crudely carved pig knuckles, engraved with sacred runes and cast into a hollowed hickory log, were the preferred early method for determining the date. As Thankspigging became more important, a more precise means was necessary to coordinate the defense of the vulnerable Pig-wains that rolled through the dark woods of pre-history. Eons of Druidic study resulted in the construction of the astronomical complex at Stonehenge. When the pig-star shone through the plinths of rings A and D, Thankspigging was on!

After the rise of the Norseman, it is believed that the Vikings celebrated Thankspigging whenever they felt like it. As they were Vikings, nobody could really tell them not to.

Q: If Thankspigging was so important, what happened to it?

A: After its golden age, the Viking civilization began to decline with the Norman conquest of England. Their fall has been attributed to high cholesterol and the aerobic intensity of raiding thatched-roof cottages from seagoing longboats. Thanks to the development of Lipitor and stents, Thankspigging no longer poses such grave risks to modern practitioners.

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Later, in the Middle Ages, the Catholic Church stamped out all celebrations of Thankspigging. It was thought that the pig, with its cloven hooves and its exceptionally sinful deliciousness, was the preferred meat of Satan. Also, peasants who overindulged in pork were deemed lazy, and their cruel masters denied them all the ear thly pleasures of the Swine.

Hand in hand, these powers did their best to make sure the holiday died a pagan death.

Q: I never learned about Thankspigging in school. Why? A: History books are written by the winners. As such, knowledge of the history and customs of Thankspigging have been systematically quashed. Until now.

Q: What type of person seeks Thankspigging?

A: Typical attendees are people in search of spiritual enlightenment, with keen intellect, who also love bacon. These seekers wish to attain what is colloquially known as ‘Rib Rapture.’ Other cultures recognize this state as “Nirvana” (Hindi) or “Satori” (French).

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Q: Can children attend Thankspigging?

A: Children are welcome at Thanks pigging. However, Thankspigging cannot be responsible for tender, milk-fed children weighing less than 20 pounds.

Q: What is served at Thankspigging?

A: The most important component of Thankspigging is smoked pork, and the more complicated and time-consuming its preparation, the better. A minimum of two pork butts and four racks of ribs are required, and the truly dedicated roast whole pigs on sections of chain-link fence.

Leftover Thanksgiving sides round out the meal, along with homemade beer if possible, preferably served in medieval goblets or Viking horns.

There you have it — a recipe for your own celebration. Now you have a great excuse for back-to-back feasts, and a clever way of polishing off your leftover sides. I urge you to take the plunge this year and, as our Viking forefathers may have said, “Wyne hae un goode pigge, mit bierre!” F&D

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about food $10 challenge

BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

COALS challenge ARTISAN PIZZA

$10

Coals fires up creativity, comfort in St. Matthews When my husband’s away, sometimes I assemble a meal resembling pizza: a pita pocket topped with bruschetta, shredded mozzarella and any leftover vegetables needing eviction from my refrigerator. Bake 10 minutes, and boom, dinner’s ready.

But what I once deemed an acceptable substitute will no longer pass for pizza after visiting Coals Artisan Pizza. Such pizzas can’t be recreated at home. One reason why is its artisan dough, a highly hydrated (wet and sticky) creation requiring precise fermentation and skillful handling. The other is its oven: a coal-burning beast heated to about 900 F — double the temperature of a chain pizzeria conveyor oven. Just 3 to 4 minutes spent within such an inferno yields an amazingly thin, but crispy and lightly charred crust.

Mark Peters is so proud of his oven, he calls it “the altar … the centerpiece” of the pizzeria. To learn what they wanted in their ideal pizzeria, Peters and his wife and co-owner, Madeline, traveled about 9,000 miles around the country visiting artisan spots before opening Coals last year. Clearly those were miles well spent.

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Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house.

Coals is also a beautiful restaurant with sleek, dark décor and a prime location in the Vogue Center in St. Matthews. Its sophisticated menu choices fit its surroundings, making me feel as though I had stepped off of Frankfort Avenue and into a chic, urban spot.

Coals’ prices, especially at lunchtime, fit a variety of budgets and provide affordable opportunities to experience true artisan pizza. But it’s not all about perfect pies. For a variety of flavors packed into one dish, the Coals Chop Chop salad comes in small ($6) or large ($9.75) portions, and is loaded with pepperoni, chicken, mozzarella, Parmesan, tomatoes, garbanzo beans and basil. Someday, when I need a hefty midday pick-me-up, I’ll try the Meatball Grinder ($8). But I might need a nap after eating meatballs, pepperoni, mozzarella and marinara on a house-made hoagie roll.

Still, pizza is the star of the show here. Cleverly named after a dozen Louisville neighborhoods, the pizzas got their monikers from Madeline, who wanted to connect with those communities. (I’ll forgive her for not having the Shively, the neighborhood in which I grew up.) Selections include the Iroquois ($8.75) with buffalo-style roasted chicken, fried onions and Sriracha sauce; the Audubon ($8.25) with broccoli, kalamata olives and wild mushrooms; and the Waverly ($8.75) with prosciutto, fig jam and Gorgonzola.

To get a good sample of Coals’ lunch menu, I ordered two dishes so I could eat half of each and take the rest home to the husband since he couldn’t join me. I decided on the Fried Green Tomato sandwich with Colby, mozzarella and Asiago cheeses ($7), with a cup of tomato soup included with the meal. I also ordered the Brownsboro pizza topped with Margarita Pepperoni, mozzarella, Parmesan and basil ($8.25). The Brownsboro is one of four pizzas (the others are the St. Matthews, the Bardstown and the Clifton) that come with a soup or salad for $8.95.

The pizza was sizable, eclipsing the plate on which it was served: more than enough to satisfy one person.The crust was slightly charred on the puffed outer edges, the savory scars of an intense coal-fired bake. Based on its appearance, I thought the texture would be similar to a typical thin-crust from other pizza places, those close to resembling a cracker. But the thin interior of the crust was soft, warm and sturdy enough to support the mozzarella and manage the oil-off from the pepperoni. The light crust and fresh toppings made this a memorable, yet simple, pizza.

The Fried Green Tomato sandwich (with optional bacon) was just as delicious as the pizza. Thick slices of house-made bread held three types of cheeses and a slice of tomato that was still juicy despite being fried. The cheeses were so rich and gooey they covered the tomato slice completely. Bites of the sandwich were perfect dipped into the tomato soup, a perfect Autumn combination.

A couple of $10 bills go a long way for two people having lunch at Coals. There was plenty of pizza, sandwich and soup to pack back home. And since I can’t recreate a coal oven in my apartment, I plan to make some return trips to this pizzeria.

The Bottom Line: Brownsboro pizza with a house salad: $8.25 Fried Green Tomato sandwich with tomato soup: $8.50 ($7 without bacon) Total (with tax and before tip): $17.75 Total for each person: $8.88 Mission: Accomplished — twice.

COALS ARTISAN PIZZA | 3730 Frankfort Ave. | (502) 742-8200 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 13

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L O C A L I S + M BEE If you have built castles in the air, your work need not be lost; that is where they should be.

Now put the foundations under them.

— Henry David Thoreau

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

Long ago, good beer was about impor ts exclusively, because there wasn’t very much good beer in America.

Several thousand domestic brewery start-ups later, there’s plenty of good beer here, and these days, we refer to it collectively as “craft” beer. This term is fine by me, except that the definition of craft beer starts on a tiny end with the scant barrels produced by a nano-brewery, and ends voluminously with the nationwide airport lounge availability of Samuel Adams.

Semantics aside, the real point of this digression is to acknowledge that I’m changing, too. Back in 1982, St. Pauli Girl probably was the best beer we had during my first-ever gig as a liquor store clerk. Thirty years later, there are dozens — nay, hundreds — of far better beers available hereabouts, and while I’m entirely comfortable in making a “good, better, best” value judgment, it isn’t as simple as it used to be.

Amid the giddy, exploding exuberance, which I’ve long professed and will continue to advocate, it seems that something important is lost.There exists an understandable zeal to embrace the unprecedented availability of international craft beer, but I find myself thinking back to points of origin, and what has made so many of my beer travels memorable: Localism.

It’s drinking great beer at or near its birthplace, primarily because it never tastes fresher than by doing so, but also because the place itself matters. Beer and community reflect each other, and although we must continue to think globally, I’m sensing a new imperative to drink locally.

Home, Not Away My professional reputation as a beer purveyor was established owing to a stubborn determination to stock the best legally obtainable (well, most of the time) beer, as brewed in locales across the planet. Nowadays, I’m far less inclined to look past my own geographical proximity. The Louisville metropolitan area has its own great beer, with plenty more quality beer being produced within a hundred mile radius.

I’ll never entirely dismiss Belgian Lambics, German Maibocks and Irish Stouts. There’ll forever be a spot for India Pale Ales from San Diego and New York-brewed Saisons, and yet they’re no longer essential to me; rather, they’re for special sampling occasions, as they were years ago when availability was limited. Inexorably, my beer drinking is shifting to local and regional sources, and for the best of all reasons: Drinking local makes me happy.

14 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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Places, Not Prizes Shift happens. It is perhaps the single, fundamental tenet of emerging economic localism, and when it comes time to have a beer, the concept of shift means putting this principle into liquid practice.

Having acknowledged the efficacy of buying local, as measured by factual indices consistently recognizing that localism keeps more money in one’s community, my household is incrementally shifting toward local sources of goods and services, whenever practical. Shift is a process, not an all-or-nothing crusade. If my shift to locally brewed beer implied being compelled to drink an inferior product, obviously I would think differently. Fortunately, it does not.

Another contemporary societal trend to consider is the notion of placemaking, generally described as “a multi-faceted approach to the planning, design and management of public spaces.” Placemaking is a grassroots, community-based phenomenon, in which those ordinary people using a public space help to determine how that space is used. Placemaking may help in part to explain my re-emerging interest in community-based beer consumption — keeping the beer drinking venues local, listening to the local beer drinkers, and knowing who supplies the beer.

Eyes and Palates, Wide Open Not so long ago, Goose Island Brewing Company was a proud independent, but now it is 100% owned by the multinational monolith called AB-Inbev, meaning that in cold, hard fact, Goose Island is no more independent than an Ignatius J. Reillythemed weenie wagon on the streets of Pyongyang, North Korea. Honkers Ale remains certifiably better than Budweiser, but to me, it really matters where the money goes … and dollars paid for Honkers ultimately travel to corporate headquarters in Leuven, Belgium, not Chicago, Illinois.

Sorry, but Goose Island sold out. Craft beer drinkers need to examine their consciences lest they sell out, too.

Session, Not Sledgehammer I’m in my sixth decade, and my body reacts differently these days to the excesses of my profession. American craft brewing has excelled in the creation of highly alcoholic genre classics, including Imperial India Pale Ale, Barley Wine and Quadrupel, and while I still adore these styles, increasingly my palate turns to an evening’s reasonable sustainability, in the form of session beers.

The Pennsylvania-based beer writer Lew Bryson is the founder of the Session Beer Project, and he provides these helpful parameters.

Session Beers are: ✦ ✦ ✦ ✦ ✦

Under 4.5% alcohol by volume Flavorful enough to be interesting — no light beers, please Balanced enough for multiple pints Conducive to conversation Reasonably priced

In brief, low-alcohol, but not low-taste. It's deliberately vague. The great thing about session beers, especially the ones that come in under 3.5%, is that you can enjoy several beers, and still have a BAC of under 0.04.

ER

Craft Beer is a Journey Maybe some day I’ll come full circle, and find myself craving bottles of Bud Light iced in a pickle bucket.

Doubtful, but entirely possible, because beer is less a destination than a journey, and you make the road signs yourself. All I’m asking is that craft beer drinkers resolve to be unafraid of where thinking can lead drinking, especially when thoughts turn to local options. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 15

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people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF JOSH MOORE Age: 33 Current Restaurant: Volare Italian Ristorante Previous Restaurants: Porcini’s; Vincenzo’s (pastry chef assistant at age 15) Neighborhood (current): Taylorsville Hometown: Louisville (high school: Seneca) Significant Other: Lindsay Franzen, girlfriend Kids: Son Gibson, 3 1/2 Favorite Hobbies: “Antique collecting, power lifting — keeps me sane — and farming.”

Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Immersion blender

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Josh Moore grows his own — produce, that is, on a 10-acre farm near Taylorsville. When the fruits and vegetables are ripe, they end up plated at Volare, where Moore is executive chef and partner.

Outside the garden, he pursues an eclectic batch of activities, from power lifting to creating sugar art. These days he’s also renovating his 110-year-old farmhouse. The kitchen was the first room done. “I put in a commercial Vulcan six-burner, double oven range with a two-foot griddle-broiler combo,” he says, smiling. “It’s beautiful.”

What is your first food memory?

“When I was a kid, my mom and I would go to Florida a couple times a summer and shuck oysters. We always had a good time.”

Who influenced your cooking the most?

“My grandmothers. They’d both cook big dinners and let me make a mess in their kitchen, from the time I could stand on a chair at the stove. Mom’s mom did a lot of baked goods and Dad’s mom did candies.”

Why did you choose to cook Italian cuisine?

“I always loved the simplicity of it and the focus on fresh ingredients. Seeing Agostino [Gabriele at Vincenzo’s] break down a whole side of veal really inspired me.”

What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen?

“Food artistry. I’m big into eating with the eyes first. I do ice carving and wedding cakes and sugar work. It comes from the pastry background. I put a lot of attention to detail.”

What’s your favorite go-to ingredient?

“I love truffles. And beef.” (He nods toward the bull tattoo on his forearm.)

(below, from left) Creamy Parmesan risotto with sautéed rock shrimp, asparagus and dill purée, finished with a horseradish lemon cream and crispy beets; fish stew with shrimp, lobster, clams, mussels, scallops and seabass in a rich tomato broth; vanilla bean panna cotta topped with fresh berries macerated in an aged sweet balsamic vinegar.

Which seasonings don’t you respect?

“Would Liquid Smoke be considered a seasoning? That imitation flavor — it’s awful.”

Which are underrated?

“Cardamom, mace, in pastry applications.

And I love dried citrus, like for meat rubs — lemon and lime zest.”

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using?

“At home I like a broccoli casserole with good ol’ Velveeta. Nothing I’d ever use in the restaurant.”

What’s your downfall?

“Trying to think outside the box. I get into classic Italian this and classic Italian that.”

What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master?

“The sugar work. It’s classic French sugar art: pulled sugar, blown sugar just like glass blowing. I’ve been doing it for years, and every day I learn a new little trick or master something a little more. It’s very temperamental and time-consuming. The humidity, if it’s too hot — it can be a headache.”

Dumbest thing you’ve ever done in a kitchen?

“I’ve burnt my share of nuts in the oven.

That was my bad habit for a while. My boss [once] said he’d give me a raise if I could go a month without burning a pan of nuts.”

If you had to work for one chef in the world, who would it be?

“I would have loved to be yelled at by Julia Child back in the day. That would’ve been fun.”

What do you aspire to?

“Right now I’m so happy with the restaurant and how it’s doing and the staff.

Down the road? Another restaurant here in town. I always want to be a part of this, but not just have this.”

What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend?

“I think we’re going to see more focus on the local farm-to-table movement. It’s been big lately but I think it’s going to take off even more. Growing produce for the restaurant, I see the customers’ excitement and enjoyment. I think it’s a lifestyle now.”

(See MOORE, page 20)

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people and places profiles

BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

CHEF RICK ADAMS Age: 37 Current Restaurant: The Exchange Pub + Kitchen Previous Restaurants: L&N Wine Bar & Bistro Neighborhood (current): New Albany Hometown: Louisville (high schools: Ballard & J’town) Significant Other: None Kids: Daughter Ainsley Marguex, 2 1/2 Favorite Hobbies: Reading cookbooks, researching restaurants online.

Favorite Cookbook: The French Laundry Cookbook,

by Thomas Keller Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Japanese chef’s knife

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Rick Adams made a name for himself at L&N Wine Bar & Bistro, where his elegant, creative cuisine won the restaurant a four-star rating. Now he’s taken his talents across the river to the The Exchange Pub + Kitchen. This fall, the gastropub is set to move from its strip-mall location off Grant Line Road to an historic building at 118 West Main Street in New Albany.

(pictured below, from left) Grilled strip steak with gorgonzola, caramelized onion, green beans and crispy leeks; pan seared Ruby Red trout with a peach and applewood bacon compote; grilled pork tenderloin with roasted pumpkin risotto, arugula salad and a Bourbon brown sugar glaze.

What is your first food memory?

“Fried chicken at my grandmother’s house.

Still to this day I love fried chicken.”

What’s your favorite go-to ingredient?

“I love pork. Pretty much any way I can get it into a dish.”

Who influenced your cooking the most?

“Chris Howerton, the chef at Zephyr Cove when I worked there. He made me realize this is what I wanted to do. He opened up what could be done with food for me.”

Which seasonings don’t you respect?

“I don’t like Old Bay seasoning much. It gets used too much.”

Why did you become a chef?

“Until I was 21, it was more or less just a job. I wanted to go to law school and I just kept pushing off school. And next thing you know, I got a sous chef job.”

Why did you choose to cook gastropub cuisine?

“I’d been looking around since L&N. Gastropub is kind of like a bistro to me.

We can focus on high-quality food with a relaxed feel. I can do pretty much whatever I want — or whatever New Albany will let me get away with.”

Other than your own restaurant, what’s the first place you’d take an out-oftowner?

“I really like Vietnam Kitchen. It’s a unique restaurant, kind of an out-of-the-way location. I can go there and nobody knows who I am.”

Which are underrated?

“Lavender. I’ve used it in a lavender honey vinaigrette for years. I really like the floral notes it gives to it.”

Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using?

“I always have a bottle of sriracha in there.”

What’s your greatest strength in the kitchen?

“Building loyalty with the people I work with. I listen to their opinions and try to push them further to succeed. Our sous chef is opening her own place now. I’ve always tried to push people underneath me to move on to other jobs, other places.”

What’s your downfall?

“Maybe not always communicating to the staff about special menus and whatnot. I procrastinate a bit. But they’re used to it.”

What cooking skill required in your kitchen is the most difficult to master?

“Proper braising. Trying to teach people to get things to the right temperature.”

The last time you were scared in a kitchen?

“One time when I was at L&N, we were outside having a cigarette break when the owner came out and couldn’t even speak.”

(He imitates the stricken owner frantically pointing to the kitchen.) “I came inside and the grill was completely engulfed in flames.

We used a ton of cornstarch to put it out.”

If you had to work for one chef in the world, who would it be?

“Grant Achatz, in Chicago at Alinea. I love his book.”

Your last food-related “wow moment” was?

“Brunch at the Silver Dollar. Huevos rancheros — the flavors were spot-on.”

What do you aspire to?

“Eventually I’d like to do my own thing — upscale food but in a relaxed environment.

I’d like to be the owner and chef. Probably in Louisville; maybe in the next few years.

Right now I’m committed to this place.”

(See ADAMS, page 21)

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QA MOORE

&

(continued from page 17)

If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be?

(Stumped): “Let’s come back to that one…”

What music was playing in the kitchen last night?

“I don’t allow music when we’re open.

During prep time, it’s usually some kind of rock or alternative. Or Johnny Cash. Love Johnny Cash.” (His expression turns thoughtful.) “That’s somebody I’d love to cook for. Love to just hang out with him.”

What was the last book you read?

“Meat.” (The River Cottage Meat Book, by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall) Give us one reason Louisville should be considered a culinary destination.

“We have more independents per capita than Chicago. [And] Louisville’s such a melting pot. We have such a vast array of cuisines.You can eat anywhere in the world you want in Louisville. And the history, Churchill Downs, the Bourbon distilleries — all that ties into the food scene too.”

What’s in your fridge at home?

“Kid’s stuff. String cheese and yogurts and juices. Other than that, a lot of unsalted

20 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

butter. Bacon — always bacon. Capers.

Pommery mustard.”

Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having?

“Hidden Valley Ranch dressing. My little boy loves it.” (Laughs.) “I eat it too.”

What food is your guilty pleasure?

“Any gummi candy.”

Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home?

“DiGiorno garlic-crust pepperoni pizza.”

Best cooking tip for a novice?

“Never start a recipe without reading it through start to finish first.”

Besides [your restaurant], what is your favorite restaurant in Louisville?

“Everybody always asks me, and my first response is always Jack Fry’s.”

Who are your favorite chefs?

“Growing up in Louisville and starting at a young age, I learned a lot. Agostino [Gabriele at Vincenzo’s], John Plymale from Porcini’s — they were mentors. Dean Corbett [Equus]. Kathy Cary [Lily’s].”

Other than your own restaurant, what’s the first place you’d take an out-oftowner?

“One of my favorite new restaurants is La Coop. Bobby’s a good friend of mine. He’s passionate.”

Your last food-related “wow moment” was?

“Boeuf bourguignon, Monday night. My girlfriend made that for dinner.”

Iron Chef Louisville: Who do you not want to battle?

“I don’t think there’s anybody I’d not want to battle. It’d be an honor to battle against some of the chefs I’ve looked up to for years.”

Who’s your dream battle, then?

“My dream battle? It’d be fun to battle against Agostino — the first chef I learned under. He taught me so much and helped mold my career. It’d be fun.”

What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose?

“A rare ribeye with fresh Brussels sprouts and pasta alioli.” F&D

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ADAMS

(continued from page 19)

If you could cook a meal for anyone, who would it be?

“I’d love to be able to cook for my father again. It’s been seven years (since he died).

Probably just steak and potatoes. At L&N he’d always have the steak frites.”

What music was playing in the kitchen last night?

“We’ve had 90s alternative on a lot. I tend to listen to a lot of 80s and 90s Louisville punk type of music — Kinghorse, Endpoint.”

What was the last book you read?

“Right now I’m reading one of the El Bulli books again — the ’94 through ’97. And every couple of years I have to reread Kitchen Confidential. I’ve read all Anthony Bourdain’s books, fiction and nonfiction.”

“I’ll do stroganoffs. Chicken and dumplings.

Quick one-pot type of meals.”

Best cooking tip for a novice?

“Learn how to use a knife correctly. And when searing stuff, use a hot pan.”

What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend?

“The Latin American thing is pretty hot. I really like what Anthony (Lamas) is doing over at Seviche. It’s one of my favorite restaurants in the city. Actually one of my favorite restaurants in general.”

Who are your favorite chefs?

“Thomas Keller. His food is simple but elegant. Farm to table before it became trendy.”

What food is your guilty pleasure?

“I do eat a lot of Butterfinger Blizzards.”

Give us one reason Louisville should be considered a culinary destination?

“A lot of the chefs in Louisville have been getting national attention. Lately, I can’t even count how many have been going to the (James) Beard House. I think there’s a lot of talent in Louisville.”

Your favorite quick meal to prepare at home?

Iron Chef Louisville: Who do you not want to battle?

Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having?

“I’m embarrassed to admit it, but Coors Light.”

“Probably Anthony Lamas or Ed Lee.” Food Network shows: Good or bad for the restaurant scene?

“For a long time, it was good. But I don’t watch it much anymore. It seems kind of watered down. Years ago, it definitely put chefs in the spotlight.”

Restaurant critics: Fear, loathe or love them? Why? “I’ve always had a pretty good relationship with critics. The local critics really know their stuff. But I don’t really like the anonymous Internet critics — the Yelp reviews. I try not to read them. It seems a little unfair to me. I hate that everybody wants to be a critic — I think they should leave it to the professionals.”

What do you do for fun?

“I like going out to eat. When I go out, I don’t really criticize things. I just like to go out and eat and have drinks and enjoy myself.”

What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose?

“I’d like to go to Alinea to do one of their huge, multi-course tasting menus.” F&D

Give your holiday favorites an extra kick with sauces that bring home the true taste of Africa. Look for the Kilimanjaro brand at your local grocery and if you don’t see it, ask for it! kfoodsinc.com

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easy entertaining just desserts

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

JUST We are usually in a party mood at holiday time, but with all the hoopla everywhere, throwing one yourself can be intimidating. So in this issue we focus on desserts, everyone’s favorite part of the menu, as a way to make giving the party as fun as attending it.

Many holiday events provide the ideal springboard for a dessert party. If your friends or family make a tradition of seeing “The Nutcracker” or “A Christmas Carol,” invite a group of them back to your place for a dessert buffet, with hot chocolate or a nightcap cocktail.

Does your family do a gift exchange? Volunteer to host it, and serve a dessert selection. Or, if a holiday progressive dinner is in the cards, sign up for the dessert course. And a tree-trimming party almost demands a dessert once the lights are strung and lit and the tinsel draped.

Throwing a dessert party can be as easy as picking up an assortment of chocolates from Cellar Door or some fancy pastries from Ghyslain.

Perhaps you have a friend with baking expertise, such as Amy Webb, formerly of Sugar Britches, who can freelance one of her signature Red Velvet cakes.

Or this might be the time to introduce friends to an old family dessert tradition, such as F&D Publisher John Carlos White’s favorite party sweet, his Grandma’s banana pudding, made with a variation on Italian meringue. White is so committed to this dessert that he asks for it rather than a birthday cake.

As usual, Tim and Lori Laird have some great dessert party ideas to share, including a seasonal cocktail to keep everyone merry.

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DESSERTS

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Chocolate Decadence (SERVES 6-8)

6 3 1 1 16 10 1

whole eggs egg yolks tablespoon sugar tablespoon flour ounces bittersweet chocolate tablespoons unsalted butter pint fresh raspberries for garnish Raspberry Sauce for garnish Powdered sugar for garnish

Heat oven to 350 degrees. In a mixing bowl, blend the whole eggs, egg yolks, sugar and flour until smooth and thick. Set aside.

In the top of a double boiler, melt the chocolate with the butter. Slowly add the egg mixture into the chocolate mixture until incorporated.

Pour into greased 8-inch round springform pan. Smooth the top and bake for 15 to 17 minutes. It will seem undercooked, but will set as it cools. To serve, place one piece 24 Winter 2012Â www.foodanddine.com

on a plate, drizzle desired amount of Raspberry Sauce and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Garnish with fresh raspberries.

Raspberry Sauce 1 12-ounce package frozen raspberries, thawed 1 /3 cup sugar 2 tablespoons Chambord Liqueur In a food processor or blender, puree the thawed raspberries with the sugar and Chambord. Pour through a fine mesh sieve to remove the seeds. Pour into a small pitcher for serving. Can be made a day in advance.

Mama Rose’s Banana Pudding with White Mountain Icing (SERVES 12)

For the Pudding:

2 5.1-ounce boxes of Jell-O instant vanilla pudding and pie filling (do not use banana flavored) 6 cups of cold milk 2 tablespoons of sugar Combine the pudding mix and milk in a bowl. Beat with a wire whisk, adding the sugar as you beat. Set aside and let mixture soft set, about 5 minutes.

For the Crust: 4-5 bananas (not quite ripe), sliced 1 box vanilla wafer-style cookies Line the bottom and sides of a deep 8- by 10-inch oven-safe glass baking dish with a layer of face-up wafers. Top wafers with a layer of sliced bananas. Pour half of pudding mixture over bananas. Make sure to cover this bottom layer of bananas and wafers completely. Add another layer of wafers and bananas. Add remaining pudding mixture. Set aside and begin making icing.

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White Mountain Icing (Note: Timing is critical when making the icing. Follow directions exactly.)

4 egg whites, room temperature 2 cups sugar 1 cup water Put egg whites in the mixer, but don’t begin mixing yet. Place sugar and water in a medium saucepan over high heat. Swirl the pot to dissolve the sugar — do not stir.

Bring mixture to a boil. Boil for exactly 7 minutes.

When the sugar mixture has 2 minutes remaining, begin beating the egg whites at one level below high speed.

When sugar mixture has boiled for 7 minutes, gradually add to egg whites while mixer is still running. Do not reduce speed.

Mixture will begin to rise. Continue beating until mixture has risen to three times its original size and it becomes stiff and glossy, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Heat the oven broiler. Spoon the White Mountain Icing over the pudding and wafer mixture. Distribute evenly. Using the bottom of a metal spoon, tap the top of the icing and pull straight up to form peaks. Repeat over entire surface.

Place banana pudding in oven. Broil for 30 to 45 seconds or until peaks are brown — do not leave unattended. Remove from oven and let rest for 15 minutes, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Fruit Parfaits (SERVES 6)

Angel food cake, torn into pieces Whipped cream Fresh raspberries and blueberries Kiwi fruit, peeled and cut into pieces as large as the berries Mint for garnish In the bottom of each of the glasses add a few berries and kiwi chunks.Top with

a dollop of whipped cream and a layer of angel food cake. Repeat the layers and end with the whipped cream on top. Garnish with a mint sprig.

Ginger Crème Brûlée (SERVES 10)

4 /3 1 /2 1 /4 1 1 /4 10 10 1

cups heavy cream cup grated fresh ginger cup sugar, divided, (plus cup sugar to finish the tops) tablespoon vanilla extract teaspoon salt large egg yolks 4-ounce ramekins

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, ginger, 1/4 cup sugar, vanilla and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Cover, remove from the heat and let steep for 20 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 25

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and 1/4 cup sugar until smooth. Whisk 1/2 cup of the cream mixture into the yolk mixture and after combined, gradually stir in the rest of the cream mixture. Strain though a fine sieve into a large measuring cup or pitcher with a spout.

Divide the custard among the 10 ramekins. Place ramekins in large roasting pan. Pour enough hot water into pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

Bake custards just until set in center when gently shaken, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove custards from water bath and let cool for 30 minutes. Refrigerate uncovered until completely cooled then wrap each ramekin with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 hours or up to 2 days before serving.

To serve, heat the broiler. Place custards on baking sheet.

Sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon of sugar. Broil until sugar melts and caramelizes, turning sheet for even browning, about 1 minute. (Alternately, you can use a small blowtorch to caramelize the sugar.) Allow the sugar to cool and harden for a few minutes then serve immediately.

Red Velvet Cake (SERVES 8-10) 1

/2 11/2 1 2 2 2 1 /4 1 1 11/2 1

HELPFUL TIP To make hosting a dessert party even easier, just pick up an assortment of chocolates from Cellar Door. We choose dark chocolate, espresso, cayenne pepper, stout and cinnamon truffles for our party.

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cup butter, softened cups sugar teaspoon vanilla eggs ounces red food coloring cups flour cup cocoa teaspoon salt cup buttermilk teaspoons baking soda tablespoon white vinegar

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Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two 9-inch round pans. Beat butter, sugar and vanilla on medium speed until creamy. Add eggs and food coloring; blend well. Stir together flour, cocoa and salt; on low speed, add dry ingredients alternately with buttermilk to butter mixture, beating until well blended. Stir baking soda into vinegar; fold gently into batter. Pour batter into prepared pans and bake 30 to 35 minutes.

Cool 10 minutes and remove from pans to wire racks. Cool completely.

Browned Butter Frosting 1 2 1 /4 1

cup butter cups powdered sugar cup milk teaspoon vanilla Cook butter in small heavy saucepan

over medium heat, stirring constantly, 6 to 8 minutes or until butter begins to turn golden brown. Remove pan from heat and pour immediately into a small mixing bowl. Cover and chill for an hour or until cool and butter begins to solidify. Beat butter on medium speed until light and fluffy. On low speed, alternately add powdered sugar and milk, making sure it is well blended after each addition. Stir in vanilla.

Chambord Cheesecake Martini 1 1 1 ½

ounce ounce ounce ounce

Finlandia vodka Chambord Liqueur heavy cream sour mix

Shake ingredients over ice, strain and serve into a martini glass rimmed with graham cracker crumbs. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 27

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liquids cork 101

BY SCOTT HARPER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

2 1 6 U

nder

[ About our experts: Scott Harper, the resident wine columnist for Food & Dining Magazine, oversees the wine programs at all five area Bristol Bar & Grille restaurants, teaches wine courses at Bellarmine University, and is one of only 197 people worldwide to hold the title of Master Sommelier.

Todd Antz is the owner of Keg Liquors in Clarksville and New Albany, Indiana. A second-generation owner of the stores, he has built one of the best selections of specialty beer, wine and liquors in the area.

John Johnson is owner and sommelier of The Wine Rack in Clifton, where he loves to introduce customers to new wines from around the world. He is a recovering stockbroker who did a career 180, headed off to a food and wine program in Denver, and set up shop in his hometown of Louisville 10 years ago.

[

Gordon “Gordo” Jackson, a level one sommelier, has owned and operated two of Louisville’s most celebrated, independent wine and spirits stores, Old Town Wine & Spirits and The Wine Market, for over a decade. Gordo has had a passion for wine and spirits since he was of legal age to try them — longer than that depending on whom you ask.

28 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

$

Best wine with hearty winter fare — Scott Harper Garnacha Altovinum Evodia 2010 (Calatayud, Spain) From the Northeastern Spanish region of Calatayud comes this 100 percent Garnacha, or Grenache, as it is called in France and the U.S. The vines — some of which are 100 years old — grow in vineyards planted as high as 3,000 feet. The result is fruit that produces a unique wine for the price. Expect a wine that’s rich, dry, soft-textured and full-bodied with the flavors of raspberry, kirschwasser, violets, pepper and blackberry.

Try this wine with rich, oven-roasted meats, such as short ribs or standing rib roast.

Around $12.

Perfect wine to take to a party — Todd Antz Hey Mambo Sultry Red 2010 (California) A product of The Other Guys, a branch of California’s famous Sebastiani wine making, this is a big and bold red, blended from five different grapes. Part of it is aged in American Oak, the other in French Oak. Pouring a deep velvet color, the aroma has slight vanilla tones with a touch of black cherry and dark fruits. The flavor is slightly fruit forward, with flavors of cocoa, cherry, cranberry, blueberry, and blackberry. The finish is slightly peppery but balanced. Medium bodied, its perfect balance and blend make it very approachable for its price point.

It pairs naturally with sweet barbequed ribs, grilled meats and lighter red-sauced Italian dishes, but it’s also versatile enough to serve with rich cocoa-based desserts.

Around $12.

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[

]

It’s not easy choosing wines for holiday events because seemingly every menu is completely different — both at home and away. As guests at others’ dinner tables, we’re on the hot seat to make a choice that will match our host’s spread, so we want to get it right.

Well fear not, dear foodie, we’ve assembled a crack team of oenophiles to guide you toward proper wine picks for any occasion. Take our local experts’ advice on what matches which and what it’ll cost you.

Perfect for Thanksgiving dinner or holiday spread — John Johnson Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc 2010 (Sonoma County, CA) Pinot Blanc (Pinot Bianco) makes an interesting, somewhat obscure white wine that is ideal for gifting. Why? When gifting wine, it’s a good bet to go with something that’s unusual, but almost universally liked once tried. This is a low-risk, upside surprise, so to speak.

The most famous region for Pinot Blanc is Alsace, but the grape is making a name for itself in California. This bottle is produced from Russian River and Sonoma Valley grapes, and is 77 percent fermented and aged in stainless steel and 23 percent aged sur lie in French oak. The result is nice complexity that preserves the fresh fruit. Aromas and flavors of apple, white peach, honeysuckle and pear dance nicely on the palate alongside seared scallops and crab cakes.

Around $12.

Perfect gift wine — John Johnson

Perfect wines for your holiday party — Gordon “Gordo” Jackson

Celler el Masroig “Finca Cucó” 2011 (Montsant Denominación de Origen, Spain)

Borsao Garnacha 2011 & Borsao White 2011 (Spain)

The mountainous Priorat region of Nor th east Spain produces some of the most complex wines in the world.

Unfortunately, they are also some of Spain’s most expensive! Next door in Montsant, the bargain hunter can find opportunities.

To show the essence of Montsant, reds must utilize one or more local grape varietals of Garnacha and Carignan. Finca Cucó is 50 percent Garnacha, 40 percent Carignan and 10 percent Syrah. The wine is unoaked, showing blueberry, cherry, licorice and black pepper on the nose. The palate is lush with black cherry and briary berry fruit accented by chocolate, smoke and mineral. Ideal table companions include everything from pork carnitas to red-sauced pastas. Around $12.

If you have never explored the great wine values of Spain, I highly recommend them. As a wine buyer, I often try to put myself in the shoes of our consumer, which always leads me to this question: What would a person expect to pay for this wine?

I remember first tasting these wines and thinking $12 or $14 would be a reasonable price for their quality. So when I realized they sell for nearly half that, they quickly became go-to fun wines for our customers.

Borsao Garnacha 2011, flavor-packed red with plum and raspberry aromas and brilliant cherry notes on the palate.

Borsao White 2011, the wine is 100 percent Viura. A brilliant straw-colored wine with aromas of citrus zest and pineapple.

On the palate, the fruit is in perfect balance with the acid, leaving a crisp clean finish.

Around $8 each.

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for better ips coffee at home

T

BY DAVID LANGE

We’ve all had that magical moment when at a coffeehouse, a neighborhood diner, or an upscale restaurant, you tipped up your coffee cup and were introduced to that very special memory of coffee that made a difference. The “ah’s” were genuine, sip after sip, but that lingering question still was a menace.

“Why can’t I make this at home?” “Why doesn’t my coffee at home taste like what I get at a coffeehouse or restaurant?” “Do I need some special brewing contraption or a PhD in brew-ology?” Not at all, just some simple guidelines that will produce that memorable cup.

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FRESH IS BEST Believe it or not, coffee will go stale. And nothing you do will bring life back to stale, old coffee. So make sure you don’t have to brush cobwebs off of the coffee bags you purchase and make sure your coffee is fresh. How do you accomplish that? First of all, buy at a reputable location that rotates and moves their retail coffee regularly. Avoid grocery stores or large volume discount locations. It’s tempting to buy that big sack at that fantastic price. But that coffee is definitely past its prime. It will haunt you morning after morning. Only buy enough coffee that will last you about a week. Ask questions about how long it’s been on a shelf. If they don’t know, trust me, you won’t enjoy it.

DON’T BE FOOLED BY THE SHINE People feel that shiny coffee beans mean good coffee. But shiny coffee beans usually mean one of two things: stale oils have come to the surface or it is over-roasted. What you may be tasting is the process of the roast, as opposed to the flavor and nuances of the coffee and how it is grown. Some coffee snobs will only determine the quality of the coffee by the amount of shine that the beans exhibit. While this is a subjective topic, dark, oily coffee beans do not guarantee that you will experience that special coffee moment. Check the aroma of the coffee. Does it smell as if it was just roasted, or does it have a musty, woody aroma? Just as they say not to judge a book by its cover, don’t assume a coffee is palatable because the beans are oily.

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BLEACHED OR UNBLEACHED Surprising, the type of coffee filter you use can greatly affect your coffee. Naturally white oxygen bleached filters make a much cleaner cup than natural brown filters. In fact natural brown filters are far more likely to give that papery flavor to your cup. A tip that I learned is to pre-wet the coffee filter before adding your coffee. This little rinse will prevent the stale papery taste that might creep into your brew.

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GRIND IT UP If you really are serious about your coffee, and you have secured those fresh coffee beans, then it is time

CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO … So you’ve made the advancement to a reliable coffee brewer and you’ve added a dependable grinder to your coffee repertoire. But it doesn’t stop there. Dirty equipment can drastically change the taste profile of even the most expensive coffee. Buy a small paintbrush to regularly dust out your grinder’s holding chamber and the grinding burrs. Take a clean cloth and wipe the coffee oils that collect around the brewing head of your coffee maker. But what about a coffee maker with lime deposits? As we will see next, water is very important to the quality of the coffee and the life of a coffee maker. Try to avoid running water mixed with vinegar into your coffee maker. It really doesn’t work very well, and you have the danger of contaminating your coffee maker with that vinegar aroma and taste. And those are a challenge to remove. And make sure your coffee carafe (hopefully it’s a thermal one) is clean of all coffee oils. to back it up by prying open your wallet and purchasing a grinder. Avoid those cheap, inconsistent blade grinders. Coffee needs to be nurtured and caressed by a burr grinder to produce flavor and body. Plus a burr grinder will grind faster, causing less friction and heat that could possibly burn your coffee. Shop at a local kitchen supply store and discover the difference in the weight and construction of a flimsy blade grinder and a sturdy burr grinder. Expect to pay anywhere from $50 for a basic burr grinder from Krups or Cuisinart to over $500 for a Bunn commercial grinder.

WEIGH AND MEASURE When you grind your coffee do you measure and then grind or do you just grind a bunch

and then “eyeball it” when it’s time to put the coffee in the filter? Not only should you grind before brewing, but you should weigh the beans before you grind. Purchasing an inexpensive household digital scale will insure a consistent coffee brew each time. How much coffee you use depends on your personal preference, but once you find that awesome ratio, stick to it every time. A good starting point is 2 ounces of coffee for every 48 ounces of water. You can then adjust to what you like for your brew.

Waiting right before you brew to grind your beans keeps the grounds from going stale and extends the beans’ life.

30 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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WATER IS THE LIFE

Since coffee is almost 98% water, if you don’t use good water, then you are going to be greatly disappointed at the end results.

Lime, sulfur, iron and other contaminants can be found in some tap waters, so I recommend using clean, filtered water.

That truly is a key element for great coffee.

Another factor with the water is the temperature. Optimum temperature for great brewing is between 190-200 degrees.

If the temperature is too low, it won’t extract the coffee’s entire flavor, too high and it will produce a bitter, acidic brew.

How do you know if your coffee maker makes the grade with a correct temperature? Buy an inexpensive thermometer and check the temperature as the water goes through an empty brew basket. If it is not hot enough, it may be time to look into another coffee maker that can do the job. I’m asked all the time what coffee maker I would suggest. I have been a fan of all Bunn home models because they brew coffee in less than 3 minutes and at a temperature of 195 degrees.

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GET IT WARM One of the easiest tricks to getting a good cup of coffee is to pre-warm your cups — so simple, but so very important. Your cabinets, especially in winter, can be a cold abode for cups, especially ceramic ones. Fill your cup with a little water, and microwave it for about a minute. Empty and dry your mug before pouring your coffee and it will extend your cup’s heat by at least 10 minutes. More time to enjoy your creation!

Brewing coffee can be as simple or as adventurous as you want it to be. You can go and purchase the most outlandish coffee equipment, but really all that you need are the basics. I went camping with a good friend one time and what we had for coffee was a campfire, a metal pot, a clean sock, a hammer and a bag of coffee beans. And we made a pretty tasty pot of coffee. The most important element? Good coffee beans. Focus your time, energy and dollars on buying good coffee beans and brewing them the best possible way you can. Then you can experience that magical coffee moment consistently every day. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 31

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Cured country ham is practically synonymous with Kentucky, whether fried up for breakfast or as the centerpiece of a holiday meal. And if one Kentucky chef is correct, it will be the basis for Kentucky becoming famous for a high-value, cured meat industry supplied by a bevy of small farmers across the region.

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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From Farm to Table — (top) Bobby Hancock of Wildwood Farm oversees his small pig farm in Oldham County, Kentucky. (center) An array of Denham’s cured pork products. (bottom) A “Ham Flight” from Louisville’s Garage Bar (700 E. Market St.).

Jay Denham knows his meats. In a culinary career that took him to Nashville and Chicago before arriving in Louisville as the executive chef at Park Place on Main and Browning’s, he deftly combined high cuisine with a Southern twist, always seeking out and presenting the best.

Now, after a multi-year absence, he’s back in town with a new endeavor, The Curehouse, a processor of premium cured pork from heritage breed pigs raised by small farmers throughout Appalachia and Kentucky.

Jay Denham grew up in Maysville, Ky., and knows well how the salted and air-cured country hams date back to the earliest pioneers carving out homesteads in the state.

“When winter came it was always a question if you could feed your stock. Draught animals and milk cows got fed; pigs often got har vested,” Denham said. “The climate also allowed for preserving the pork using a salt and air curing process that goes back to before Roman times.”

Often referred to as “the ham belt,” this temperate climate zone in North America runs from Iowa and Missouri through Kentucky and Tennessee to Virginia and the Carolinas. It permitted pork to be one of the original cash crops (along with tobacco, lumber and whiskey) to come out of the colonies and postRevolutionary War America. The ‘belt’ wraps around the planet and is basis for the long tradition of similarly air-cured meats in Spain, Italy, Eastern Europe and China. (Religious restrictions against pork in the Middle East and vegetarianism in India account for the only broad exceptions.)

When Park Place closed a few years back, Denham, who could have easily landed a chef ’s position anywhere in North America, packed his bags and headed to Europe to build on his Kentucky roots. First, he went to Spannocchia, a demonstration agricultural estate in the Siena hills famous for helping save the cinta senese heritage pig breed. Then he went north to Zibello on the Po River to work with the Italian meat curing master, Massimo Spigaroli.

“A planned two-week stay led to six months,” Denham said. “To learn from Massimo, who is

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considered the master of culatello, a special cut of pork revered as the best cured meat in the world, I worked for free in exchange for room and board. It was cool that my room was in a castle and meals were at Massimo’s three-star restaurant.”

After returning stateside, Denham met Irish businessman Nick Heckett and geneticist/Ag-professor Chuck Talbott who had already started Woodlands Pork, a pig raising farm in the hills of West Virginia intent on delivering cured hams equal to the best available in the world.

“These pigs forage in the woods, feeding on acorns, hickory and beech nuts.

This gives them both developed muscle and a fat content that can’t be duplicated by confined feeding operations in the U.S.,” Denham said. “In the push to cheaply raise pork, and make it ‘the other white meat,’ America has developed a pig that lives on concrete, is fed corn, and can be harvested in six months. It is so lean it’s impossible to make good cured meat out of it.”

NEW OPPORTUNITIES Woodlands Pork, which currently markets mostly to chefs and high-end restaurants, is on the crest of a new wave of American enthusiasm for quality pork products. While some producers have earned more press — like Herb Eckhouse’s La Quercia in Norwalk, Iowa, pre-selling acorn-fed Berkshire pigs to chefs, and Armandino Batali’s (Chef Mario’s father) Salumi Artisan Cured Meats in Seattle — none likely have more research, business savvy, and chef ’s experience as the team behind Woodland Pork and The Curehouse.

“Since the quality of good hams depends on the soil, the climate, the breed and its foraging habits, it made me think of the wine metaphor, that they have a ‘terroir’ that’s equivalent to grape varietals and annual vintages,” Nick Heckett said.

“When you think about it, good ham exceeds all other foods in its complexity and variety. It is on a pedestal that only wine and spirits can reach.”

Just as Americans have gone beyond industrial homogenization with an appreciation of good wines, craft brews, farmhouse cheeses and estate-grown coffees, Heckett and Denham believe there is a public ready to experience the pleasure a quality pork product provides.

“There’s a lot of fakey-fake Italian marketing going on. ‘You know what the

difference is between grits and polenta? $3.99 a pound on the open market!’”

Heckett says with a wink. “With the growing conditions here in the states we can compete with the best Europe has to offer. But we are not going to copy them but offer a uniquely American product.”

While most country hams have to be soaked to leech the salt used to cure them, Heckett, Talbott and Denham are aiming at the ready-to-eat cured meat customer, those who appreciate what a paper-thin slice of prosciutto can be when wrapped around a piece of melon or served with a biscuit or piece of bread.

“You can’t eat three ounces of this at one sitting. It’s too rich,” Denham said. “This is so full of flavor, only a small amount is needed.”

Denham demonstrated some hamtasting techniques on a translucently-thin, ruby-red and white-haloed slice of ham while meeting at the Blue Dog Bakery and Café. (Owners Bobby Hancock and Kit Garrett carry Woodlands Pork and are raising their own herd of hybrid Red Wattle and Mulefoot pigs for personal consumption and sale to The Curehouse.)

“You rub the fat between your fingers and see how easily it melts. You tug on it to see how marbled it is and the structure of the muscle tissue. Its smell should be a bit funky, and it should have a rich umami flavor,” Denham said. “When finished on forest mast, the nuts turn into unsaturated fats which melt at a low temperature. Over in Tuscany they refer to such acorn-finished pigs as ‘walking legs of olive oil.’ ” In addition to the Blue Dog Cafe, the Garage Bar is an excellent place to experience sublime ham with their sampler plate offering four or five Virginia, Tennessee and Kentucky products. (See other suppliers in end note). No need to fear — trichinosis has been practically eliminated from U.S. pork and the curing process ensures full penetration of salt, which kills it and harmful bacteria, and the aging process slowly dries the meat and releases enzymes that develop intensely rich flavors, much like in aging cheeses.

RE A DY, S E T …

The Curehouse plan is to ultimately provide a market for maybe 200 farmers willing to raise pigs in non-industrial settings.

“We’ll work with farmers on a caseby-case basis, coaching and developing them on the best practices and protocols

about organic feeds, foraging on pasture and in woodlots,” Denham said. “We’re developing a web-based tracking program to allow customers to go back to specific farms, whether feed was barley versus corn, and how much time was spent in pasture or foraging on mast in the woods.

Our goal is 100% transparency. And this will allow one to know, depending on weather, the particular breed, and the type of feed or mast forage, how good one producer’s vintage is compared to another.”

“We currently bring Woodlands Pork to Kentucky for processing and aging,” Denham continued. “We don’t have a retail outlet yet, but you can visit our website (www.cure-house.com) for updates and ordering information. We hope to have the new Curehouse plant on Old Fern Valley Road finished next year, where we’ll centralize operations and distribution.”

So, ham lovers unite! The future is looking bright and the renaissance is setting down roots in ol’ Kentucky. F&D

BUYERS GUIDE Here are several other producers known for high quality, cured meats: Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams 2603 Highway 411, Madisonville, TN (423) 442-5003, bentonscountryhams2.com Broadbent’s 257 Mary Blue Road, Kuttawa, KY (800) 841-2202, broadbenthams.com Father’s Country Hams 6323 ST RT 81, Bremen, KY (270) 525-3554, fatherscountryhams.com Douglas Freeman 605 New Hope Road, Cadiz, KY (502) 522-6145 Meacham’s Country Ham 705 O’Nan Dyer Road, Sturgis, KY (270) 333-6924, meachamhams.com Col. Bill Newsom’s 208 East Main Street, Princeton, KY (270) 365-2482, newsomscountryham.com Scott Hams 1301 Scott Road, Greenville, KY (800) 318-1353, scotthams.com Salumi Artisan Cured Meats 309 Third Ave South, Seattle, WA (206) 621-8772, salumicuredmeats.com www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 35

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Shop

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WHY SHOP LOCAL? What was once the only thing — patronizing locally-owned businesses — is now the “in” thing. Focusing your consumer dollars on local, one-of-a-kind businesses supports the unique character of the Louisville community.

That’s the philosophy.

The practicality is this: Studies show that three times as much money spent at local businesses stays circulating in the local economy as money spent at national chains. That’s because local businesses support each other.

Local businesses hire and promote your friends and neighbors. And local businesses support community arts and charitable causes at twice the level as do chains.

So — buying local is good for the economy, good for jobs, good for community karma.

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The Wine Market

1200 Bardstown Rd | TheWineMarket.net | 502.451.7446

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by CARLA CARLTON

NULU R E D U X photos by DAN DRY

38 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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In just three years, a onceramshackle neighborhood has become Louisville’s newest, hippest dining and shopping destination.

Ar t, food, music, Ping-Pong:

It’s all waiting in NuLu. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 39

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W

When Mike Maloney bought a four-story building in the 800 block of East Market Street in 1999 and moved in, people called him crazy. The area just east of downtown Louisville was long past its historic prime as a center for commerce. Many of the buildings were boarded up, save for a homeless shelter across the street and a couple of art galleries. “There was no real hint of a future for that area,” he said. “There was even talk of demolishing it.”

Today, East Market Street bustles with activity. During the day, professionals in suits, young couples, families with children, retirees and “ladies who lunch” pack the dozen or so restaurants in the area. They browse in shops like Scout, Red Tree and Peace of the Earth, which have joined mainstays Joe Ley’s Antiques and Muth’s Candies; meet for coffee and maybe a record purchase at Please & Thank You; or select sumptuous hand-painted truffles at Ghyslain.

After the sun goes down, hipsters lounge on Astroturf-covered “couches” outside the Garage Bar, Michael Paley’s funky restaurant-bar housed in an old filling station, while Bourbon aficionados sample $5 pours at Taste Fine Wines & Bourbons, which moved into the 600 block of Market a year ago from Crescent Hill because “there’s more stuff going on here,” said employee Stacie Stewart.

The party peaks on the first Friday of each month with First Friday Trolley Hops. Shops and galleries stay open late and TARC trolleys ferry passengers until 11 p.m. — although many restaurants and bars stay open later.

Four high-profile restaurants opened on East Market this year alone: Rye, La Coop, Taco Punk and Decca, which has utterly transformed the building across from Maloney’s that once housed Wayside Christian Mission. “It’s like having a buffet outside your door,” he said.

These new restaurants, along with favorites such as Harvest, Wiltshire on Market and the Mayan Café, are bringing an urban vibe to Louisville’s dining scene — while also using local ingredients and supporting local talent with jazz nights and art spaces of their own. They aren’t just creating dining venues; they are creating a community. “This street ties art and food together,” said Bobby Benjamin, who left The Oakroom to become chef at La Coop. “It’s a bigcity feel. I think it’s awesome.”

Once a month, the “Flea Off Market” transforms the two blocks of Shelby Street just, well, off Market, into an outdoor bazaar selling everything from vintage vinyl to original artwork. “It’s fun to walk out the front door and have all those booths and vendors there,” said Maloney, who works in the city’s special events office. “It really makes you feel like you’re someplace.”

And what is this wondrous place? They call it NuLu.

‘A state of mind’ The name NuLu — for “New Louisville” — was coined by Gill Holland, a film and record producer who, with wife Augusta Brown Holland, developed The Green Building, the first commercial structure in Louisville to achieve platinum LEED certification, at 732 E. Market in 2008. The couple also bought and renovated nearly a block of neighboring buildings.

“In 2009, Food & Dining was the first publication to coin ‘NuLu’ in print,” Holland recalled.

Since then, the name has become widely adopted, although some residents and business owners still call the area the East Market District. “I would say it’s a state of mind,” Holland said. “ ‘East Market’ is more the bricks and mortar; ‘NuLu’ is the state of mind.”

NuLu is roughly bounded by South Hancock Street and Baxter Avenue from west to east and from Washington to Liberty north to south, with much of the new activity in the 600 to 800 blocks of East Market Street.

Asked what has changed in the past three years, Holland said, “It’s become such a great destination. … There are more things to do, and many more people. In 2009, not much was happening. We had the galleries and three restaurants. Now we have 12 restaurants and all these stores.”

NuLu’s development was bolstered by the move of Wayside Christian Mission, whose buildings in the 800 block of East Market were purchased by entrepreneurs. To illustrate the 40 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

pace of change on that block, Holland tells the story of a Canadian resident who was recently employed by an internet startup company located there. “He was applying for a green card and told them the address was 808 E. Market Street. On Google Maps it still had the boarded-up buildings, and the INS people were like, ‘Are you kidding??’ That’s how fast the neighborhood is changing: Google Maps can’t keep up.”

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In 2009, the NuLu area had several galleries and three restaurants; now it still has those galleries, such as (top left) lawyer Paul Paletti’s photo collection, but also 12 restaurants, including Garage Bar (above) and Please & Thank You (below), and a variety of boutiques and specialty shops, such as Peace of the Earth (left).

Galerie Hertz, the art gallery owned by Billy Hertz and his partner, Tom Schnepf, whose move onto East Market is widely credited with sparking the renaissance of a downand-out area. “He is the one who, in my mind, revitalized the neighborhood,” Hershberg said. “I think of Billy Hertz as the patron saint, if you will.”

Attorney and gallery owner Paul Paletti agreed. “You have to give credit to Chuck Swanson and Billy Hertz.

Without their courage and their determination to create something, the rest wouldn’t have happened.” Paletti and his law partners moved Sturm, Paletti & Wilson from the Starks Building to 713 E. Market in 2001; the Paul Paletti Gallery, which specializes in museum-quality photography, is on the first floor.

The gallery was one of the original participants in the First Friday Gallery Hop. “In 2001, when it started, basically you only came to downtown Louisville after dark to go to bars; to go to performances at Actors or the Kentucky Center for the Arts; or to get mugged,” Paletti said. “We really did start the hop to bring people downtown again …

It has sparked so many things down here. The beneficiaries are the restaurants and the businesses like Scout and Red Tree that have done very, very well.”

“I love to see all the types of people” in the area, Hershberg said. “It used to be a certain demographic — young, 21- to 31-year-olds — who you’d see there. Now really you just see the full spectrum. It’s been fun to see the transformation.”

W h a t ’s n e x t ?

“NuLu stands as a testament to what communities can accomplish when great entrepreneurs have space and opportunity to work together, feed off each other and aim to be the best,” said Louisville Mayor Greg Fischer.

Holland may have been dubbed “mayor” of NuLu, but he is quick to share the credit for the area’s success with Bill Marzian, who preceded him as president of the East Market District Association and who owns the buildings that house Taco Punk and Peace of the Earth; with the gallery pioneers who first saw the area’s potential; and with the property owners who preserved buildings that in some cases are 140-150 years old. “There are many ‘mayors’ — people who have been there longer than I have and have kept buildings from being torn down. We are just building on what was done before.”

To Susan Hershberg, who opened Wiltshire on Market in the 600 block of Market in 2009, the area will always be “the East Market Gallery District.” Her restaurant is located in the building that once housed

While the transformation of NuLu has been impressive, it’s not yet complete, Holland said. “Half the lots and buildings are still empty. We have severely reduced rent compared to any other part of town. Everyone thinks we’ve totally arrived; I think we are halfway there. The foundations were there in 2009, and they’re stronger now, but we have a way to go.”

The next big change will be an influx of residents as the University of Louisville’s Nucleus medical research complex draws tenants and the final phase of Liberty Green, the city’s redevelopment of the old Clarksdale housing project into a mixed-income neighborhood, is completed.

“There will be 2,000 people in those six acres. That is going to be huge,” Holland said.

In addition to galleries, shops and restaurants, NuLu will need to fill some of its empty buildings with amenities for those residents. There is a barbershop now, and an artisanal butcher shop will soon open at 720 E. Market.

Several people interviewed for this story mentioned the need for a grocery store, particularly after Creation Gardens’ move left the area with no source for fresh food.

“The challenge is not to get too gentrified — to keep the shops and stores and restaurants locally owned,” Holland said. “We have people from all walks of life here, all kinds of people, and that’s the challenge: not to get too fancy and start pricing people out of the market. We don’t want to be such an entertainment district that residents can’t live there. We need to be livable, walkable and fun.” www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 41

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Nu kids on the block Four restaurants have opened in the NuLu district in this calendar year, raising the area’s profile locally and nationally.

RYE Michael Trager-Kusman didn’t know much about NuLu when he decided to come back home to Louisville and open a restaurant. “I’d been gone for six years, and I don’t think I’d ever consciously driven down that street.” He had left Louisville for a job with the FDIC in Washington, D.C. When that proved less than exciting, he moved to New York, got an odd job in a restaurant and started working his way up. “The food aspect is my passion, but I’ve learned to love the entire realm of restaurants — the design, the image.”

He was attracted to the East Market area because it seemed up and coming. “In New York, you’re always looking for what’s coming next.

Brooklyn, Williamsburg, Greenpoint — all these neighborhoods were places that looked like nothing to some people, but to some people, they looked like gold. There are people out there who still think East Market is not the safest area, but to us it looked emerging and safe.”

Rye opened Jan. 4 at 900 E. Market, in a 120year-old building most recently occupied by the Hausman Jeep Eagle dealership that now has a decidedly New York feel. The interior has a clean, orderly design, with large dining rooms featuring exposed brick walls and wood-plank floors that ring with the sound of conversation. A mirror over a banquette runs the entire length of one room, reflecting the artwork on the opposite wall.

Design is important to Trager-Kusman; Rye’s website names his interior designer, photographer and furniture creator in addition to his general manager and chef. “This is an experiential restaurant,” he said. “We think a restaurant is a

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place where you walk into another world for that two-hour experience.”

One room has a clear view of the open kitchen, where Chef William Tyler Morris creates small plates, main eats and sides that change frequently.

(The server on a recent visit noted that there weren’t any specials because “ever ything is a special.”) Sharing dishes is encouraged.

“It took us a while to figure out who we were,” Trager-Kusman said. “We are not a cuisine-based restaurant or a themed restaurant — we are an inspired restaurant. We cook what we’re inspired by.You will see our menu change a lot. We want to cook what we want to cook. We might go to San Francisco and have a great experience with Chinese or Asian flavor and want to incorporate that into our menu. There will be a flow of flavors coming through.”

Coming up with a name for the restaurant was the hardest part, he said. “We had so many arguments.” Then he took Morris and general manger Erin Macdonald on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail tour to introduce them to the state. “It came up a bunch on the tours: rye. And that was kind of where we got our inspiration for it. Rye is flavor.”

(The extensive spirits list features 21 rye whiskeys.)

Trager-Kusman has added flavor to the neighborhood with his Back Porch Sessions, a series of free concerts in Rye’s parking lot. “We are really tr ying to bring a community together in the restaurant and arts world,” he said.

“I never thought NuLu existed in Louisville until I moved back. I only knew Bardstown Road and St. Matthews. I never knew there was a place where people take an interest in so many things. It’s just a different mentality. No one is doing the same thing.

No one is trying to one-up another person. People want to fill in gaps. So you have a coffee shop, a bakery, Rye and Decca and Mayan and La Coop …

That is what is beautiful about NuLu.”

RYE 900 E. Market St. (502) 74 9 . 6 2 0 0

(clockwise from above) The Schnitzelberg cocktail; Chef William Tyler Morris; Rye owner Michael TragerKusman; main dining room; apple salad with butternut squash; roasted half chicken with savoy cabbage. (left) Meat and cheese charcuterie plates. (far left) Crispy porchetta with potato purée.

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LA COOP 732 E. Market St. (502) 410.2888

(top) Scallops with fennel and celery root ragout. (above) Lamb shank with polenta. (center, from left) Aux noix salad with blue cheese ice cream; cured ham charcuterie board. (right) Coq au vin.

44 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

LA COOP After nearly three years as chef de cuisine at The Oakroom, Bobby Benjamin jumped at the chance to be the chef at La Coop, a French bistro that opened in April in the Green Building at 732 E. Market and quickly had local Francophiles swooning.

“Fine dining has taken a different turn; people want to eat more casual food,” he said. “There aren’t many French bistros in the South. I’m very excited to be able to put my techniques behind casual food. I think this is what people want to eat: charcuterie, raw oysters, braised meats, lots of seafood.”

Like many of the restaurants in NuLu, La Coop’s design transports diners to another place, or at least another state of mind. With flocked wallpaper, opulent fabr ics and spar kling chandeliers, owners Brett Davis, Chip Hamm and Michael and Steven Ton (who operate Basa and co-own Doc Crow’s with Davis) have transformed the Spartan interior of the former 732 Social into an intimate space with a definite European feel. As with the best bistros, the experience carries outside, where bright green tables are adorned with flowers and French music

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provides the backdrop. A namesake birdcage dangles outside the front door.

La Coop’s owners describe its offerings as “French comfort food with a modern twist.” The most expensive item on the menu — steak frites — is $20, with many selections well below that.

“I’m definitely enjoying what I’m doing,” Benjamin said. “I think what it’s done is it’s brought me back to the roots of cooking. It gives you an appreciation for how food started. And what’s exciting is that I’m still able to make sauces and pâtés, but at the same time I’m able to serve dishes that have been served for centuries. I mean, escargot has been served forever.

It is exciting to be able to do that.”

His enthusiasm isn’t limited to his kitchen. “I think that what’s really cool about East Market is that every restaurant has its own identity. Every one of them is just doing its thing. Harvest is doing all this local food, which is amazing. It is very challenging to do 100 percent local. I gotta tip my hat to Bruce (Ucam) at Mayan (Café), because he pretty much got Market started. And then you have Decca, that’s new, and she’s doing great food, and Rye, and Ghyslain and Taco Punk.

“Not every city has that. Every big city, like New York, has like a Chinatown, a Little Italy — but not every city has this mix of things. And it’s not just for the foodies, but for the everyday people who want to experience good food — whether they start at Garage Bar and work their way to Rye, or start at Mayan and end up at La Coop. I think it’s really awesome.” (below, from left) Onion soup with bone marrow; pork belly with sweet potato mash; Chef Bobby Benjamin. (right) A classic, Bouillabaisse.

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TA C O P U N K Taco Punk is next door to La Coop, but a world apart in atmosphere.

Where La Coop is cozy, Taco Punk, which opened in mid-January at 736 E. Market in the space formerly occupied by Toast on Market, is a big, wideopen room sparked with the bright colors of a piñata. (Toast has moved to 620 E. Market, former home of White Oak and Artemisia.) The symbol of this laid-back gourmet taco eatery is a grinning sugar skull, a traditional Mexican folk-art symbol.

Like Bobby Benjamin, owner Gabe Sowder is also all about simple preparations of quality ingredients — and for similar reasons. “I had been in fine dining for years and had gotten to the point where it was frustrating me,” said Sowder, who worked at Jack Fry’s and as chef de cuisine at 610 Magnolia, with a stint in Oregon in between. “There were people I knew who were artists and musicians who didn’t have the money to come in and experience something awesome. So I decided to take the ideas of fine dining and apply them to the quick-service model.

“We wanted this to be a place where the quality was first and foremost and people of all ages and all classes could appreciate q u a l i t y. M u c h o f my decision came down to ‘What is the best vehicle to feed the most people the highest-quality food?’ That was where the taco came into it.”

Customers at Taco Punk walk up to steam tables and select the meat and toppings for their tacos, which are prepared to order, then enhance them with house-made salsas at the salsa bar and carry them to a table.

The most important rule for Sowder: Start with the best ingredients. “Our proteins are super-high quality — the best that’s out there,” he said. “I have longstanding relationships with farmers in this area. Catholic Charities has a refugee farmer program that we’ve been a part of this summer — we got our vegetables from them. We are buying all of our meats from local sources. We like getting good purveyors for fish and shrimp, sustainable sources.”

With such high quality, “we really minimally process the product,” he said.

“We don’t have fryers. We are very, very 46 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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respectful to our products. We do lots of smoking and grilling. We keep the flavor as the centerpiece; there’s not a lot of the added cheese and fat that are typical in a lot of Mexican restaurants. When people come in for the first time, they order tacos with cheese and sour cream, but within a few visits they realize, ‘Hey, I don’t need to have that on there, because the flavors are so great.’ ” Sowder said he was drawn to NuLu because of the opportunity for expansion in an area with beautiful buildings and history. “You’ve got this great architecture, and people are doing something completely new with it. That’s been the real attraction to the East Market District — there is a lot of energy, and that is contagious. Innovation is thriving down here.”

TACO PUNK 736 (top) Smoked beef ribs with yellow rice. (left) Chicken tamale with smoked chicken crème. (opposite, top to bottom) Chefowner Gabe Sowder; duck confit taco with caramelized pumpkin and a shrimp taco with a coconut and pineapple sauce; fish taco with chili lime mayo and pork shoulder taco with pineapple.

E. Market St. (502) 584.8226

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(above) Wood grilled pork chop with braised cabbage. (right) Seared black grouper with caramelized cauliflower. (center) Pumpkin agnolotti in a mascarpone cream. (opposite page, from top) views of the many spaces that make up Decca, surrounding grilled skirt steak; the Waysider cocktail; Chef Annie Pettry.

DECCA 812 E. Market St. (502) 74 9 . 8 1 2 8

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DECCA The only hints that the building housing Decca at 812 E. Market was ever a homeless shelter are a logo preserved on the east wall and the name of one of its signature cocktails: The Waysider. The owners spent a year and a half renovating the former Wayside Christian Mission building and developing the adjacent lot into a courtyard with curving paths, trees, shrubs, firepits and fountains before opening in March. The result is a gorgeous three-story restaurant with multiple dining rooms, a wine cellar/piano bar, a library and an outdoor stage.

The name “Decca” (it’s a reference to Decca Records and the owners’ passion for music) painted on the west exterior wall looks like it’s been there for decades. And indeed, sitting on the restaurant’s second-floor deck overlooking the patio and the Market Street bustle, it’s easy to imagine you’re in a grand old establishment in a place like New Orleans’ French Quarter.

The owners say the creative elements of the space were just as important to them as the restaurant aspect. The concept for Decca was developed by brother and sister Chad Sheffield and Amy Sheffield, Chad’s significant other, Kelsey Norris, and her brother Reid Norris in early 2010, after Chad and Kelsey returned to Louisville from a four-year stay in San Francisco.

Chad worked in the restaurant business, and Amy had worked extensively in the Louisville restaurant scene; Kelsey, who is currently a medical student at the University of Louisville, has a background in art.

“We wanted to focus on the use of small

production, artisanal products — from the ingredients in the food and beverage program to the aesthetic of the space itself, including the furniture and art,” they said. “The East Market area seemed like a great fit due to its focus on local businesses, art, culture, creativity and progressive ideas.”

Chef Annie Pettry, who moved to Louisville after also working in San Francisco, uses locally sourced ingredients to create a small, well-chosen menu of inventive starters, several pasta dishes and a short list of entrées featuring meat and seafood.

You might start your meal with that Waysider — a refreshing concoction of Bourbon, mint, lime and ginger beer.

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Diverse dinner destinations The four new restaurants joined an already vibrant dining scene in the East Market District, which includes the following notable dinner destinations.

MAYAN CAFÉ If Billy Hertz was the patron saint of the gallery movement in the district, Bruce Ucán ser ved that role for the restaurants. His Mayan Gypsy, which opened in 1997, was a pioneering eatery in the East Market District area, and its exotic flavors inspired by Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula developed a fanatic following.

Then the Gypsy closed. But after a short absence, Ucán returned to the district with a new establishment, the Mayan Café at 813 E. Market, and once again Louisvillians could feast on roasted Tok-sel lima beans and salbutes, those little pillows topped with goodies like black beans and goat cheese.

Ucán also employs a farm-to-table philosophy, purchasing produce, cheeses and proteins from local farms.

See a full profile of Mayan Café in our Fall 2009 issue at www.foodanddine.com.

WILTSHIRE ON MARKET Catering guru Susan Hershberg opened Wiltshire on Market, 636 E. Market, in 2009 as a hedge against the recession. “I wanted to keep my team fully engaged and working. It seemed like a great opportunity to open a little restaurant — not a ‘real’ restaurant — and to give my chefs the opportunity to create whatever they wanted, with a different menu every single weekend.”

Three years later, the restaurant is very real.

It has been so successful that Hershberg has expanded the hours to include a fourth night.

The menu still changes weekly, with an emphasis on local ingredients. A weekly charcuterie and cheese board are staple starters.

Read more about Wiltshire on Market in our Fall 2009 issue at www.foodanddine.com.

GARAGE BAR At Garage Bar, patrons often spill out into the parking lot of the former service station at 700 E. Market, where neon lights illuminate Ping-Pong tables and a moving sculpture that slowly smashes two cars head-on into each other.

Chef Michael Paley, who spent more than six years at Proof on Main, serves up wood-fired pizzas and a small selection of Southerninfluenced dishes, including a tasting menu of

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country hams, along with a large selection of craft beers and more than 30 Kentucky Bourbons and rye whiskeys.

Read a full profile of Garage Bar in our Winter 2011 issue at www.foodanddine.com.

HARVEST The owners of Harvest, which opened in summer 2011 at 624 E. Market (once home to Mayan Gypsy), describe their establishment as “a locally grown restaurant” and pledge to source at least 80 percent of their food from growers located within 100 miles of the city — including Oxmoor Farm off Interstate 64.

That means that Chef Coby Lee Ming’s inventive menus evolve with the seasons.

Even the cocktails feature bitters and syrups made in-house with local ingredients.

To read more about Harvest, see our Fall 2011 issue at www.foodanddine.com.

AGAINST THE GRAIN A g a i n s t t h e G r a i n B r e we r y a n d Smokehouse opened in the winter of 2011 in the spot last held by Browning’s at Slugger Field (401 E. Main) and carries on the tradition of local brewing, with a decidedly offbeat sensibility: the hand-crafted beers have names like Judas Yeast and Two Wheel Death Machine.

As the gastropub’s name implies, pretty much everything on the menu is smoked.

Tip: Try the Old Hickory Nachos, where pulled pork and barbecue sauce cover housemad e ket t le chips . Even the co cktail ingredients are smoked. The Barrel Smoked Manhattan features smoked Jefferson’s Reser ve 10-Year-Old Bourbon, sweet vermouth, Fee Brothers Barrel-Aged Bitters and smoked cherries.

See a full profile of Against the Grain in our Winter 2011 issue at www.foodanddine.com.

Three other restaurants in the NuLu area have established themselves as go-to spots for breakfast and lunch or yummy takeout treats. Toast on Market, 620 E. Market, serves up French toast, omelettes and pancakes as well as a wide selection of sandwiches and gourmet grilled cheese. Ghyslain, 721 E. Mar ket, fea tures ro bust so ups and sandwiches, gelato, gorgeous hand-painted chocolates and beautiful cheesecakes and tarts. And Cake Flour, 909 E. Market, offers a selection of baked goods — breads, pastries, cookies, cupcakes — that are all-natural and organic. F&D

(clockwise from top left) Truffles from Ghyslain; Cake Flour’s Bourbon cupcakes; Mayan Café’s salbutes; Wiltshire’s Susan Hershberg; Hamburger with hog jowl jam from Harvest; the crew from Against the Grain. (opposite page) Brussels sprouts pizza from Garage Bar; Wiltshire’s halibut with artichoke barigoule.

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dining guide Cuisine Style

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African............................78 Asian/Chinese ................78 Asian/Filipino..................80 Asian/Japanese ..............80 Asian/Korean..................82 Asian/Mongolian ............82 Asian/Thai ......................82 Asian/Vietnamese...........82 Bar & Grill ......................77 Barbecue ........................76 Bistro/Contemporary......62 Cafés .............................64

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Fine Dining .....................58 Home Style/Southern .....70 Indian .............................84 Mexican..........................86 Microbreweries ..............78 Middle Eastern ...............85 Pizza...............................72 Sandwich/Deli ................74 Seafood..........................66 Southwest/Tex Mex ........88 Steakhouse ....................67 Upscale Casual...............58

Area Maps begin on page 90 Alphabetical Index

Check your balance when you’re away from home.

Cafeterias .......................71 Cajun/Creole...................85 Caribbean/Cuban............86 Casual Dining .................67 Coffee/Tea House ...........88 Desserts/Bakery .............89 Entertainment Dining......72 European/Bosnian ..........82 European/French ............82 European/German ..........83 European/Irish................83 European/Italian .............83 European/Spanish ..........84

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED

BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

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211 Clover Lane 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A.P. Crafters Kitchen & Bar Achille’s Pizza Addis Grill Adobo Mexican Restaurant Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Nuur Al Watan Alley Cat Café Amici Anchorage Café Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Ann’s by the River Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Arni’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atrium Café August Moon Austin’s BD’s Mongolian Grill B3Q BBQ B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse Baby D’s Bagels & Deli Backyard Burger The Bakery Bamboo House Bank Street Brewhouse Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter’s 942 Bar & Grill Baxter Station Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Coffee Co. Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar

MAP #

58 Fine Dining 3 58 Upscale Casual 3 58 Fine Dining 13 67 Casual Dining 14, 16 78 Asian/Chinese 1 62 Bistro/Contemporary 5 72 Pizza 16 78 African 1 86 Mexican 11 89 Desserts/Bakery 16 83 European/Italian 16 78 Microbreweries 1 78 African 13 85 Middle Eastern 4 64 Cafés 5 83 European/Italian 13 64 Cafés 5 72 Pizza 13 72 Pizza 4 71 Cafeterias 16 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 89 Desserts/Bakery 3 72 Pizza 1, 12 74 Sandwich/Deli 1 83 European/Italian 2 78 Microbreweries 2 67 Casual Dining [6] 80 Asian/Japanese 10 72 Pizza 14 64 Cafés 14 80 Asian/Japanese 3 78 Asian/Chinese 4, 14 78 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 58 Upscale Casual 2 68 Casual Dining 11 62 Bistro/Contemporary 5 78 Asian/Chinese 2 59 Upscale Casual 7 82 Asian/Mongolian 6 76 Barbecue 14 68 Casual Dining 5 74 Sandwich/Deli 2 74 Sandwich/Deli 6 89 Desserts/Bakery 4 78 Asian/Chinese 13 78 Microbreweries 14 70 Home Style/Southern 2 72 Entertainment Dining 2 59 Upscale Casual 2 77 Bar & Grill 2 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 86 Mexican 3, 6 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 72 Pizza [13] 77 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14, 15 80 Asian/Japanese 14

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Bela’s Café 78 African 13 Bendoya Sushi Bar 80 Asian/Japanese 1 Big Al’s Beeritaville 77 Bar & Grill 2 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 70 Home Style/Southern 1 The Bistro 71 Cafeterias 3 Bistro 1860 Wine Bar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro 301 62 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro 42 83 European/Italian 10 Bistro Le Relais 82 European/French 4 Blackstone Grille 59 Upscale Casual 10 The Blind Pig 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 64 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 68 Casual Dining 13 Bluegrass BBQ 76 Barbecue 3 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 78 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Burgers 68 Casual Dining 3 Bluegrass Café 64 Cafés 2 Boardwalk Fresh Burgers 74 Sandwich/Deli 16 Bombay Grill 84 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 66 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 72 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 72 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 72 Pizza 6 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 72 Pizza 2, 5 Boomer’s Café 64 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 76 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 72 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 82 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbons Bistro 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 76 Barbecue 5 Bravo!

59 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 89 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 The Brewery 77 Bar & Grill 2 Brian’s Deli 74 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 68 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 62 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 77 Bar & Grill 5 Bruegger’s Bagels 74 Sandwich/Deli 3 Buca Di Beppo 83 European/Italian 6 Buck’s 58 Fine Dining 13 Buckhead Mountain Grill 68 Casual Dining 4, 16 Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue 77 Bar & Grill 12 Buffalo Wild Wings 77 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Bungalow Joe’s 77 Bar & Grill 11 Bunz Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 2 Burger Boy 74 Sandwich/Deli 13 Burning Bush Grille 85 Middle Eastern 10 Butcher’s Best 74 Sandwich/Deli 10 Butterfly Garden Café 64 Cafés 2 Café 360 85 Middle Eastern 2 Café Aroma 86 Mexican 2 Café Fraiche 64 Cafés 7 Café Lou Lou 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Café Magnolia 68 Casual Dining 1

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Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Caviar Japanese Restaurant Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Champp’s Americana Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlestown Train Station Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clarksville Seafood Clark’s Lyndon Village Pub Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza CoCo’s Chocolate Café Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Copper Cupcake Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Corner Door Bar & Grill Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Cubana Restaurant Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso De La Torre’s Decca Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby City BBQ Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Difabio’s Casapela DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In D’Nalley’s Restaurant Doc Crow’s Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 DP UpDogs Dragon King’s Daughter Drake’s Dunkin’ Donuts DuValle Grub N Scrub

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82 Asian/Vietnamese 2 13 64 Cafés 13 82 Asian/Vietnamese 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 89 Desserts/Bakery 1 72 Pizza 5 68 Casual Dining 10 68 Casual Dining 13 83 European/Italian 5 10, 16 67 Steakhouse 1 74 Sandwich/Deli 1 59 Upscale Casual 1, 2 89 Desserts/Bakery 16 68 Casual Dining 77 Bar & Grill 1 77 Bar & Grill 3 82 Asian/Korean 3 72 Pizza 16 16 66 Seafood 59 Upscale Casual 6 70 Home Style/Southern 1 64 Cafés 3 68 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 78 Asian/Chinese 1 3 59 Upscale Casual 16 72 Pizza 13 78 African 70 Home Style/Southern 14 70 Home Style/Southern 1 68 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 78 Asian/Chinese 3 78 Asian/Chinese 15 79 Asian/Chinese 13 79 Asian/Chinese 12 79 Asian/Chinese 13 79 Asian/Chinese 13 79 Asian/Chinese 6 79 Asian/Chinese 16 13 79 Asian/Chinese 79 Asian/Chinese 12 5 80 Asian/Japanese 79 Asian/Chinese 12 68 Casual Dining 1, 3 79 Asian/Chinese 1 1 79 Asian/Chinese 79 Asian/Chinese 1 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 64 Cafés 1, 2 66 Seafood 15 77 Bar & Grill 5 2 72 Pizza 77 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 68 Casual Dining 1 72 Pizza 3 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 83 European/Italian 1, 16 89 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13 89 Desserts/Bakery 8 58 Fine Dining 8 59 Upscale Casual 5 77 Bar & Grill 2 70 Home Style/Southern 5 70 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Cafés 2 71 Cafeterias 1 64 Cafés 14 64 Cafés 15 79 Asian/Chinese 1 86 Caribbean/Cuban 11 86 Caribbean/Cuban 2 68 Casual Dining 6 78 Microbreweries 2 68 Casual Dining 1, 10 89 Desserts/Bakery 3 84 Indian 11 89 Desserts/Bakery 13 80 Asian/Japanese 8 74 Sandwich/Deli 3 73 Pizza 13 70 Home Style/Southern 5 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 84 European/Spanish 2 60 Upscale Casual 1 67 Steakhouse 3 64 Cafés 13 76 Barbecue 13 72 Entertainment Dining 16 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 74 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 Bar & Grill 2, 3 83 European/Italian 2 73 Pizza 3 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 74 Sandwich/Deli 1 70 Home Style/Southern 1 60 Upscale Casual 1 74 Sandwich/Deli 7 79 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 79 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12, 13 79 Asian/Chinese 6 74 Sandwich/Deli 14 80 Asian/Japanese 2 77 Bar & Grill 3, 8 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 76 Barbecue 13

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Eagle Lake & Restaurant 66 Seafood 12 14 Earth Friends Café 64 Cafés 12 Eastern House 79 Asian/Chinese 1 Eddie Merlot’s 67 Steakhouse Edesia Gardens 68 Casual Dining 6 Eggroll Machine 79 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 83 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 74 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 86 Mexican 15 4, 6, 15 El Caporal 86 Mexican 5 El Mariachi 86 Mexican 6 El Marlin Seafood 86 Mexican 2 El Mundo 86 Mexican [16] El Nopal 86 Mexican El Ranchero 86 Mexican 4 El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 86 Caribbean/Cuban 13 El Sombrero 86 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 86 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 6 El Torazo 86 Mexican El Toro Cantina & Grill 87 Mexican 5 Emperor of China 79 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 79 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 58 Fine Dining 1 Equus 60 Upscale Casual 3 6 Erika’s German Restaurant 83 European/German 1 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 64 Cafés 6 Ernesto’s 87 Mexican Exchange Pub + Kitchen 63 Bistro/Contemporary 14 2 Expression Of You 88 Coffee/Tea House The Falafel House 85 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 76 Barbecue 6, 15 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 68 Casual Dining 13 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 73 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 73 Pizza 2, 5 FeastBBQ 76 Barbecue 14 The Feed Bag 75 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 87 Mexican 8, 11 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 76 Barbecue 1, 12 5 Firehouse Subs 75 Sandwich/Deli First Wok 79 Asian/Chinese 12 2, 5 The Fish House 66 Seafood The Fishery 66 Seafood 3, 5 The Fishery Station 66 Seafood 11 Fish-Fry House 66 Seafood 2 8, 14 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 68 Casual Dining Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 68 Casual Dining 13 Flanagans Ale House 77 Bar & Grill 2 Forty Acres And A Mule 70 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 77 Bar & Grill 4 Four Pegs Beer Lounge 63 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Franco’s Restaurant 70 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 76 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 75 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frolio’s Pizza 73 Pizza 13 Frontier Diner 70 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 89 Desserts/Bakery 1 Fuji Asian Bistro 80 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 80 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Funmi’s African Restaurant 78 African 4 FX Pizza 73 Pizza 14 Garage Bar 68 Casual Dining 1 Gary’s On Spring 60 Upscale Casual 2 Gasthaus 83 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 68 Casual Dining 1 Gelato Gilberto 89 Desserts/Bakery 8 Genghis Grill 82 Asian/Mongolian 8 Gerstle’s Place 77 Bar & Grill 3 Ghyslain 82 European/French 1, 8 Gigi’s Cupcakes 89 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 79 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 70 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Golden Palace 79 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 79 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 79 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 68 Casual Dining 8 Gordon Biersch Brewery 78 Microbreweries 1 Grady’s Burgers & Wings 68 Casual Dining 13 Granny’s Apron 70 Home Style/Southern 13 Granville Inn 77 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 85 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 77 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 89 Desserts/Bakery 5, 14 Great Life Café 75 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 15 Great Wall 79 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 79 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Leaf Vegetarian 69 Casual Dining 13 Green Room Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 6 Guaca-Mole 87 Mexican 5 Habana Blues Tapas 86 Caribbean/Cuban 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 71 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 81 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 79 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 76 Barbecue 16 Harvest 60 Upscale Casual 1 Havana Rumba 86 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5 Hawksview Gallery 60 Upscale Casual 13 Hazelwood Restaurant 70 Home Style/Southern 12 Heart & Soy 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Heine Brothers Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 2,4,5,13 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 89 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Henry’s Place 60 Upscale Casual 7 Hibachi Sushi Buffet 79 Asian/Chinese 11 Highland Coffee Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 Highland Morning 64 Cafés 2 Highlands Taproom Grill 77 Bar & Grill 2

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Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 5 13 Hill Street Fish Fry 66 Seafood 2 Hilltop Tavern 77 Bar & Grill 11 Hitching Post Inn 77 Bar & Grill Hobknobb Roasting Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 Holy Grale 63 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Home Run Burgers & Fries 69 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6, 13 Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen 89 Desserts [9] Hometown Buffet 70 Home Style/Southern 6,3 7 Hometown Pizza 73 Pizza 14 Honey Creme Donut Shop 89 Desserts/Bakery Honeybaked Café 75 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 14 Hong Kong Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Hong Kong Fast Food 80 Asian/Chinese Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 77 Bar & Grill 13 Hooters 69 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 Howl at the Moon 72 Entertainment Dining 1 Hunan Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 11 6 Ichiban Samurai 81 Asian/Japanese IHOP 69 Casual Dining 6, 15 Improv Comedy Club 72 Entertainment Dining 1 Incredible Dave’s 72 Entertainment Dining 8 Indi’s Restaurant 70 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 The International Mall 84 European/Italian 1 14 The Irish Exit 83 European/Irish 2, 7 The Irish Rover 83 European/Irish 13 Iroquois Pizza 73 Pizza 3 J. Alexander’s 60 Upscale Casual 1 J. Graham’s Café 64 Cafés J. Gumbo’s 85 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6 J. Harrods 60 Upscale Casual 10 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 58 Fine Dining 14 Jack Fry’s 58 Fine Dining 2 Jack’s Lounge 63 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Jackson’s Seafood 66 Seafood 14 Jade Palace 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Jane’s Cafeteria 72 Cafeterias 4 Jasmin Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 4 5 Jasmine 80 Asian/Chinese Jason’s Deli 75 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Java Brewing Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 2,8,10 Jazzyblu 63 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 67 Steakhouse 1 Jersey Mike’s Subs 75 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 15 Jersey’s Café 77 Bar & Grill Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 75 Sandwich/Deli [9] Joe Davola’s 75 Sandwich/Deli 2 Joe Huber Restaurant 72 Entertainment Dining 14 Joe’s Crab Shack 66 Seafood 1 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 85 Cajun/Creole 6 5 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 69 Casual Dining John E’s 60 Upscale Casual 4 John O’Bryan’s Tavern 77 Bar & Grill 12 Johnny Brusco’s Pizza 73 Pizza 8 Johnny V’s 73 Pizza 6 JR’s Pub 77 Bar & Grill 14 Jucy’s Smokehouse 76 Barbecue 5 Jumbo Buffet 80 Asian/Chinese 6 Kailana Sushi 81 Asian/Japanese 11 Kansai Japanese Rest.

81 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 Karem’s 69 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 84 Indian 2 Kayrouz Café 64 Cafés 3 Kenna’s Korner 73 Pizza 8 Kern’s Korner 69 Casual Dining 2 King Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 3 Kingfish 66 Seafood 6, 7, 16 King’s Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 14 King’s Fried Chicken 71 Home Style/Southern 13 Kobe Japanese Steak 81 Asian/Japanese 16 Koreana II 82 Asian/Korean 13 KT’s 60 Upscale Casual 2 Kum’s Kafe 71 Home Style/Southern 13 La Bamba 87 Mexican 2 La Bocca 84 European/Italian 14 La Bocca Pizzeria 73 Bar & Grill 14 La Bodega 84 European/Spanish 2 La Colombiana 84 European/Spanish 8 La Coop: Bistro à Vins 83 European/French 1 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 84 European/Italian 2 La Hacienda Guadalajara 87 Mexican 13 La Monarca 87 Mexican 11 La Pasadita 87 Mexican 16 La Popular 87 Mexican 13 La Que 82 Asian/Vietnamese 2 La Rosita Mexican Grill 87 Mexican 14 La Rosita Taqueria 87 Mexican 5, 13, 15 La Tapatia 87 Mexican 2, 13 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 72 Cafeterias 14 Las Gorditas 87 Mexican 11 Lee’s Korean 82 Asian/Korean 13 Legend’s 69 Casual Dining 14 Lemongrass Café 82 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Lenny’s Sub Shop 75 Sandwich/Deli 4 The Lighthouse 77 Bar & Grill 16 Lil’ Cheezers 75 Sandwich/Deli 2 Lilly’s 58 Fine Dining 2 Limestone 58 Fine Dining 5 Ling Ling 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Little Caesar’s Pizza 73 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 Little India Café 84 Indian 4 Liu’s Garden 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Logan’s Roadhouse 67 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 87 Mexican 13 Longhorn Steakhouse 67 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago 75 Sandwich/Deli 2 Los Aztecas 87 Mexican 1, 5, 10 56 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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Los Mezcales 87 Mexican 13 3 Lotsa Pasta 75 Sandwich/Deli 14 Louis Le Francais 83 European/French 6 Louisville Pizza Co. 73 Pizza Louisville Tea Co. 88 Coffee/Tea House 5 Luigi’s 73 Pizza 1 Lynn’s Paradise Café 69 Casual Dining 2 Ma Zerellas 73 Pizza 15 Maa Sha Allah 78 African 4 16 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 82 Asian/Thai 2 Maido Essential Japanese 81 Asian/Japanese 1 Main Eatery 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main Street Coffee & Deli 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main St. Tavern 77 Bar & Grill Majid’s St. Matthews 64 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 61 Upscale Casual 1 Manhattan Grill 69 Casual Dining 1 Mark’s Feed Store 76 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 Marketplace Restaurant 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Martini Italian Bistro 84 European/Italian 8 Masa Japanese 81 Asian/Japanese 5 Mayan Café 87 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 75 Sandwich/Deli [9] Mellow Mushroom 73 Pizza 3, 5 6 The Melting Pot 61 Upscale Casual 3 Meridian Café 64 Cafés 4 Mexican Fiesta 87 Mexican 12 Mexico Tipico 87 Mexican 2 Mexico Viejo 87 Mexican Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 81 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike & Matt’s 71 Home Style/Southern 16 Mike Linnig’s 67 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 77 Bar & Grill 14 Mimi’s Café 69 Casual Dining 5 Ming’s Buffet 80 Asian/Chinese 2 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 85 Middle Eastern 13 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 71 Home Style/Southern 1, 2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 67 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 84 European/Spanish 7 2, 3 Molly Malone’s 83 European/Irish The Monkey Wrench 69 Casual Dining 2 More Shenanigan’s 83 European/Irish 4 Morris Deli & Catering 75 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 1 Morton’s of Chicago 67 Steakhouse Mozzaria Italian Eatery 84 European/Italian 1 Mr. Gattis 73 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 69 Casual Dining 2 My Favorite Muffin 89 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 72 Entertainment Dining 13 NamNam Café 82 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nana’s Country Kitchen 71 Home Style/Southern 12 Nancy’s Bagel Box 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 75 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 61 Upscale Casual 5 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 69 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 73 Pizza 14 New Albany Roadhouse 69 Casual Dining 14 New China 80 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 77 Bar & Grill 8 Nonnie’s Kitchen 64 Cafés 5 Nord’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 O’Charley’s 69 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 71 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 83 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 58 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Sushi & Soul 81 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 81 Asian/Japanese 2, 4 Old 502 Winery 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 73 Pizza 6, 8 Old Spaghetti Factory 84 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 61 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 76 Barbecue 11 The Olive Garden 84 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 75 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 80 Asian/Chinese 14 Orange Clover Kitchen 64 Cafés 16 Oriental House 80 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 73 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 81 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 69 Casual Dining 1 Outback Steakhouse 67 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 61 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 84 European/Spanish 2 Panda Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 10 Panera Bread Co. 75 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 73 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 73 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 73 Pizza 2 Passtime Fish House 67 Seafood 6 Pat’s Steak House 67 Steakhouse 2 Patrick O’Shea’s 83 European/Irish 1 Paul’s Fruit Market 75 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Paula Deen Buffet 69 Casual Dining 14 Pearl 82 Asian/Vietnamese 14 Peking City Bistro 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 75 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 69 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 73 Pizza 6 Perkfection 88 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 84 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 85 Middle Eastern 4 Pho Binh Minh 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 72 Cafeterias 6

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Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 87 Mexican 12 16 Pink Baron BBQ 76 Barbecue 5 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 76 Barbecue 1 Pita Delights 85 Middle Eastern Pita Hut 85 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 85 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza King 73 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 73 Pizza 4 Please & Thank You 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 3 Plehn’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 5 Police Donuts 89 Desserts/Bakery 13 Ponderosa Steakhouse 67 Steakhouse 2 Porcini 84 European/Italian 1 Potbelly Sandwich Shop 75 Sandwich/Deli Proof On Main 61 Upscale Casual 1 Pub Louisville 69 Casual Dining 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 73 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 87 Mexican 11, 14, 16 [13] Qdoba Mexican Grill 87 Mexican Queen of Sheba 78 African 1, 4 Queenie’s Soul Cuisine 71 Home Style/Southern 4 Queue Café 64 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 80 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 [7] Quizno’s Subs 76 Sandwich/Deli 3, 8 Rafferty’s of Louisville 69 Casual Dining 2 Ramiro’s Cantina 88 Mexican Ramsi’s Café 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 88 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 69 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Sun Chinese 80 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s Comfort Food 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Relish 64 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 83 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 76 Barbecue 1 River City Drafthouse 78 Bar & Grill 2 River City Winery 64 Bistro/Contemporary 4 River Road BBQ 76 Barbecue 7 16 Riverside Café 64 Cafés Rivue 58 Fine Dining 1 4 Rocky’s Pizza & Panini 73 Pizza Rocky’s Sub Pub 73 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 84 European/Italian 5 Rooster’s 69 Casual Dining 12, 13, 15 8 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 78 Bar & Grill Roots 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Rosie’s Pizza 74 Pizza 5 Rosticeria Luna 88 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 80 Asian/Chinese 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 76 Barbecue 13 6, 15 Ruby Tuesday 69 Casual Dining The Rudyard Kipling 70 Casual Dining 1 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 67 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 67 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 67 Steakhouse 11 Rye 61 Upscale Casual 1 SaE Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Saffron’s 85 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 85 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 82 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saigon One 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Saint’s 78 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 81 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 81 Asian/Japanese 3 Sal’s Pizza & Wings 74 Pizza 5 Sala Thai 82 Asian/Thai 11 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Sam’s Food & Spirits 70 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe 88 Mexican 16 Santa Fe Grill 88 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 81 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine 80 Asian/Filipino 2 Sato’s Zen Sushi & Sake 81 Asian/Japanese 3 Schlotzsky’s Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 8 Scotty’s Ribs & More 76 Barbecue 5 Scotty’s Village Market 76 Sandwich/Deli 8 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 85 Cajun/Creole 5 Senor Iguana’s 88 Mexican 5, 6, 13, 15 Sergio’s World Beers 78 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 58 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 76 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 82 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 85 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 76 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 80 Asian/Chinese 1 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 83 European/Irish 2 Sherry’s Corner Café 64 Cafés 16 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 85 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 71 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 81 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 70 Casual Dining 5, 13 Sichuan Garden 80 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 74 Pizza 1 The Silver Dollar 64 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Simply Thai 82 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 74 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 88 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 85 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 70 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Smashburger 70 Casual Dining 1, 5 Smokehouse BBQ 76 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 76 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 77 Barbecue 6 Smokey’s Bean 88 Coffee/Tea House 13 Snappy Tomato 74 Pizza 8 Sol Aztecas 88 Mexican 1, 2

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Sonoma Coffee Café 88 Coffee/Tea House 2 Soora Korean Restaurant 82 Asian/Korean 8 Soupy’s 76 Sandwich/Deli 4 Spaghetti Shop 84 European/Italian 11, 14 1, 2, 3, 8 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 74 Pizza 13 Sporting News Grill 78 Bar & Grill 1 The Sports & Social Club 78 Bar & Grill Spring St. Bar & Grill 78 Bar & Grill 2 The St. Charles Exchange 67 Steakhouse 1 Star Sushi 81 Asian/Japanese 16 Starbucks Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House [35] 5 Starving Artist Café 76 Sandwich/Deli 8 State Donuts 89 Desserts/Bakery Steak N Shake 70 Casual Dining4,6,8,13,12,15 2 Stevens & Stevens Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 7 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 84 European/Italian 8 Stoney River 67 Steakhouse 16 Stricker’s Café 64 Cafés Studio Pizza 74 Pizza 15 Sub Station II 76 Sandwich/Deli 13 Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 89 Desserts/Bakery 11 Sully’s Saloon 78 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 2 SuperChef’s Breakfast 70 Casual Dining 1 Sway 61 Casual Dining Sweet Stuff Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sweet Surrender 89 Desserts/Bakery 2 Sweets & Such Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 12 1 Taco Punk 70 Casual Dining Taco Tico 88 Mexican 12 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 88 Mexican Taj Palace 85 Indian 8 Take Out To The River 66 Cafés 10 11 Tambayan Filipino 80 Asian/Filipino 14 TanThai Restaurant 82 Asian/Thai 6 Tazza Mia 88 Coffee/Tea House TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 80 Asian/Chinese 8 Texas Roadhouse 67 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 Texicans BBQ Pit 77 Barbecue 7 TGI Friday’s 70 Casual Dining 1 7 Thai Café 82 Asian/Thai Thai Siam 82 Asian/Thai 4 13 Thai Smile 5 82 Asian/Thai Thai Taste 82 Asian/Thai 2 2 The Back Door 78 Bar & Grill The Café 66 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 66 Cafés 3 The Cheddar Box Too 66 Cafés 3 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 76 Sandwich/Deli 13 Tin Roof 78 Bar & Grill 3 1, 14 Toast On Market 70 Casual Dining Tokyo Japanese 81 Asian/Japanese 7 Tom + Chee 76 Sandwich/Deli 2 Tomo 81 Asian/Japanese 14 Tony Impellizzeri’s 74 Pizza 14 Trailside Café 88 Coffee/Tea House 5 Troll Pub Under The Bridge 78 Bar & Grill 1 Tucker’s 70 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 88 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4,6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 84 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 70 Casual Dining 2 Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint 74 Pizza 2 Uptown Café 61 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 61 Upscale Casual 2 Verbana Café 66 Cafés 8 Vic’s Café 78 Bar & Grill 14 Vietnam Kitchen 82 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Village Anchor Pub & Roost 64 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Vincenzo’s 58 Fine Dining 1 Vint Coffee 88 Coffee/Tea House 1,2,3,7 Vito’s Pizza 74 Pizza 13 Volare 84 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 76 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 71 Home Style/Southern 13 Wall Street Deli 76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Warehouse Hookah Café 85 Middle Eastern 14 Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 81 Asian/Japanese 2 Webb’s Market 71 Home Style/Southern 1 Wick’s Pizza 74 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 Wild Eggs 66 Cafés 3, 5 Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion 81 Asian/Japanese 2 William’s Bakery 89 Desserts/Bakery 15 Wiltshire On Market 61 Upscale Casual 1 The Wing Zone 70 Casual Dining 13 Wingstop 78 Bar & Grill 12 Winston’s 58 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 80 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 66 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 80 Asian/Chinese 4 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 62 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 66 Cafés 1 Yang Kee Noodle 80 Asian/Chinese 5 Yellow Cactus 88 Mexican 14 Yen Ching 80 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 80 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Za’s Pizza 74 Pizza 2 Zanzabar 78 Bar & Grill 13 Zaxby’s 70 Casual Dining 5,13,14,16 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 85 Middle Eastern 2 Zen Garden 82 Asian/Vietnamese 2 ZiaLaLa Café 66 Cafés 5 Zoe’s Kitchen 85 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 Zoup!

76 Sandwich/Deli 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 58 Fine Dining 5 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 57

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SOME PLACES SIMPLY SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES. Since 1923, when The Brown Hotel first opened her doors to the world, she has graciously welcomed guests with a sense of grandeur, which quite frankly has left many of our guests speechless.

NOW, HERE’S WHAT THE REST OF THE WORLD IS SAYING: “Named one of the BEST 500 HOTELS IN THE WORLD” TRAVEL + LEISURE MAGAZINE

“Service was exemplary. I checked out with regret.”

GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

p = Full Bar

f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise).

All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

CHICAGO TRIBUNE

“The English Grill has emerged as the finest restaurant in the city.”

WINE SPECTATOR

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln. 896-9570. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. Ownermanager Andrew Smith and long time Chef Troy Schuster have burnished the upscale atmosphere and creative menu, moving 211 Clover Lane to a destination dining spot. $$$$ Br L D pf

THE ENGLISH GRILL

610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for more than two decades.

The quality of food and service remains high, and Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe

J. GRAHAM’S CAFE

CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ D p

T H E G R A N D LO B BY B A R

DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com 58 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ L D hpe

LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt has established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Seasonal theme dinners and the Feed Me Chef ad hoc dinners offer special values. $$$$ L D hpf THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) continues to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA fivediamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ Br D pe RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239.

The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. Chef Brian Riddle’s menu, with a local emphasis and upscale flourishes, adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes.

Lamas has recently been getting national notice in Esquire and on TV’s “Extreme Chef,” and with the renovation and expansion of the restaurant now complete, he is setting a new standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs is now also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails.

The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hfe ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ Br D hpf

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962.

Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center.

The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ Br D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.

(See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.)

BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanesestyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ L D hp CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The restaurant in the Jeffersontown Marriott plays up its Bourbon theme on the menu divisions (“10 minute White Dog” lunch choices, “Bourbon Kitchen Favorites,” “Bootlegger Burger Bar” and so on) but in addition you will find some interesting outliers: fish tacos, a turkey burger, truffle mac and cheese and hot water cornbread. The Bourbon selection is impressive and includes more than 75 offerings of Kentucky’s finest. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., (Mall St. Matthews) 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$$ L D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Located in an 1870s building in NuLu, Decca brings the talent of chef Annie Pettry to Louisville. A commitment to locally farmed and small production ingredients is evident in the kitchen, and throughout the bar and wine program. Decca features local artists and musicians alongside inspired food and drinks in a warm atmosphere. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start about a year ago. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world focuses on locally sourced foods (Chodkowski and Chef Coby Ming are shooting for 80% from within 100 mile radius), which limits the fish selection, but increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e HENRY’S PLACE 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6586.

Named for reputed gourmand Henry Watterson, this new East End, Euro-inspired brigade de cuisine restaurant offers affordable upscale dining in surroundings of “sophisticated retro Mad Men 60s” decor. The eclectic menu offers choices such as Wagyu beef carpaccio, seared ahi tuna with fennel slaw, chicken ballotine and cioppino. Chef and co-owner Charles Reed even uses double-yolk duck eggs in his house-made pasta for added richness and color. $$$$ D p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ D p JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ Br L D pfe KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by 60 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ Br L D hpf MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009.

Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp

LOCAL EATS

AMERICAN SPIRITS

900 EAST MARKET STREET RYEONMARKET.COM

NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish quarters of this popular East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s become one of the anchors of trendy Westport Village center. $$$ L D hpf OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., (21c Hotel) 2176360. Executive chef Levon Wallace is at the helm in the kitchen now, promising to keep the bison burger and the octopus on the menu as he explores his own ways to incorporate local products into his culinary vision.. $$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. After a long apprenticeship in the New York restaurant world, Michael Trager-Kusman has returned to his hometown where he and his partner, Aaron Yarmuth, have invested in the renovation of the old Hausmann Jeep Eagle building on far east Market St. Operating the restaurant is front-of-the-house manager Erin McDonald, who came from Chicago, and Chef Tyler Morris, a veteran of The Breslin in New York. $$ L D hpf SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434.

After a $5.8 million renovation, the Hyatt Regency, long without a signature competitive restaurant, is now back in the game, with one of the handsomest dining spaces around. The menu is based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway, which is an emphasis on fresh seasonal food with local sourcing whenever possible. The bar area opens onto Fourth Street, for superior people-watching. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212.

Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.)

WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan

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Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she continues here with her finely crafted small plates menu that changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sat. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

A.P. CRAFTERS KITCHEN & BAR 1321 Herr Ln., 690-5000. Tony Palombino stretches beyond his gourmet pizza with this bold venture in Westport Village. The decor echoes the place’s name, with floor to ceiling shelving stocked with vintage cookware, distillery and brewer’s supplies. The menu concept is Euro gastropub, with upscale comfort food, craft beers and “Prohibition-style” cocktails. $$ L D hpf ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ L D pf BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. L&N Wine Bar is no more; long live Bistro 1860 Wine Bar. Michael Crouch, formerly of Bourbons Bistro, will head the kitchen, offering a menu he calls “new American-French fusion” and describes as continental techniques applied to an eclectic range of small plates. All parts of the menu will be offered at three size/price ranges: petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée, allowing diners to explore the menu at reasonable cost. The bar will emphasize wines and custom cocktails. $$$ D

hpf

BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ L D pf THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600.

A popular hangout since its opening, this Euro-style gastropub’s menu focuses on French country cooking, house-made sausages and charcuterie, served in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late-19th century building in Butchertown. After dinner, pop upstairs to the trendy Meat, one of Louisville’s top nightspots. $$ Br L D hpe BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 8948838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list.This Crescent Hill favorite’s menu is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120.

The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international 62 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. A second location in the Douglass Loop is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ Br L D hp CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669.

Former Asiatique bar manager Anderson Grissom has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $ B Br L D pf DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129.

This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 948-6501. Ian Hall, with Chef Rick Adams in tow, is moving his gastropub to a sumptuously renovated historic building in the center of the New Albany dining revival. His clever but accessible American bistro style food is available from lunch to late night. Notable on the menu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (housemade chips with bison chili topping) and skirt steak. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 6341447. Taking over the space vacated by the Germantown Pub, Four Pegs offers craft beer at approachable prices, as well as well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and a pork chop sandwich served with a Granny Smith apple slaw.

Chef Matt Flink, formerly of Browning’s, helms the kitchen here. $ D h HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Two veterans of the upscale kitchens along Bardstown Road have taken over the old Swan Dive space, and patrons of the previous vegan haunt are quickly becoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispy mushroom medley and veggie tacos join interesting oddities like duck sliders and bacon plantain croquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes, and a reasonable beer selection. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. The owners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted a former church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twenty taps offer a rotating choice of international brews, and an eclectic menu offers Belgian fritjes, pretzels and beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ L D he JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ L D hpe

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MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Long-time restaurateur and top-notch host Majid Ghavami’s current venture, in the heart of St. Matthews, offers a Mediterranean-American menu.

The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ Br D pfe MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Up front in the old Kentucky Theater is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal menu cleverly fuses culinary concepts: crawfish arancini, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops, for instance. $$ L D hpf NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Now with a second location in Douglass Loop, folks in the Highlands, as well as Clifton, can enjoy North End’s hearty and unusual breakfast, or satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe OLD 502 WINERY 122 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. Watch the winemakers craft 10 varieties of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes and imported juices as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale-casual eatery just west of downtown. The winery serves a full bar-style menu including shrimp cocktail and fried calamari, soups, salads and sandwiches (including a bahn-mi) and entrées such as caramelized sea scallops, Kentucky Bourbon chicken and deep dish lasagna. Live music most every Friday and Saturday night. $$ L D he RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban.

Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf RELISH 1346 River Rd., 587-7007. After a long hiatus from the restaurant biz, former Jack Fry’s and La Paloma owner, Susan Seiller, has opened this small, 50-seat lunch and takeout place focusing on “healthy, clean cuisine.” After cooking for her father following a heart attack, Seiler was inspired to create a restaurant serving healthful foods with lots of flavor. Takeout will be available only to customers with pre-paid accounts and who order their food online for pickup. $$ L f RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540.

The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an immediate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch or vodka. $$ Br L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf 64 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544.

This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880.

It started as a suburban coffee bar and café offering continental breakfasts and sandwiches. But in no time Anchorage Café has morphed into a premium bakery and Anchorage-area go-to spot for eclectic, farm-to-table meals at lunch and dinner. And it still offers excellent espresso. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino.

Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320.

This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. This long-time ladies’ lunch favorite, in an attractive old house on Bardstown Road, offers interesting, pleasant lunch fare, with very appealing dessert choices. $$ L CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929.

Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739.

Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm.

Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers.

Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f

CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials.

Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 3211 Grant Line Rd., New Albany IN, 725-9393. Vegetarians and vegans can find a lot to love here in the sandwich, salad and soup sections of the menu, but they will have to co-exist with carnivores. The menu insists, though, that “all meats [are] produced from humanely raised, grass-fed animals and are produced without added hormones.” $ B Br L ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 455 S. Fourth St., (Starks Bldg.) 585-5120.

These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted

by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ B L D f NONNIE’S KITCHEN 11601 Main St., Middletown, 245-4411. Picturesque downtown Middletown needs pleasant places for ladies to lunch, and Nonnie’s Kitchen now occupies the space that once housed Tiffany Cellars Café. A mother-son team from Chicago has hit the ground running, with a menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts that have delighted early adopters. $ L f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. The owner was the sous-chef at NA Exchange, and now is serving up quick breakfast and lunch items, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN (Sheraton Hotel), 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf SHERRY’S CORNER CAFÉ 1051 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3722. Breakfast and lunch are served at this archetypical family eatery specializing in fresh, home-style cooking. $ L STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving

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old

G

502 winery et a glimpse of wine making, while enjoying a glass of wine.

Located on 10th Street between Main and Market Mon – Sat: 11am – 11pm 122 South 10th Street, Louisville, KY

(502) 540-5650

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hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L

salads, soups and desserts that have made her takeaway business so popular. $ B L

TAKE OUT TO THE RIVER 9550 US Hwy. 42, 3652605. $ L D

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020.

This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f

THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324.

For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 893-2324. Tenant turnover in Chenoweth Square opened up a space for long-time Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant to extend her presence in St. Matthews with a café. Look for the same tasty

WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing minichain’s third outlet. $ B Br L p WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D hf ZIALALA CAFÉ 12220 Shelbyville Rd., 713-5803.

The owners, of Venezuelan and Italian backgrounds, tout their Middletown eatery as a “Latin

Give the Gift of Good Taste The perfect gift accepted by all member restaurants.

Purchase Louisville Original gift cards online, at all ValuMarket stores, and the Louisville Visitor’s Center.

Asiatique August Moon Chinese Bistro Baxter Station Bar & Grill Bistro 301 Bistro Le Relais Bluegrass Brewing Co. - St. Matthews Bluegrass Brewing Co. - Arena Bluegrass Brewing Co. - Theater Square Bristol Bar & Grille - Highlands Bristol Bar & Grille - Jeffersonville, IN Bristol Bar & Grille - Hurstbourne Bristol Bar & Grille - Downtown Bristol Bar & Grille - Prospect Buck’s Restaurant & Bar Café Lou Lou - Highlands Café Lou Lou - St. Matthews Come Back Inn Cumberland Brews De La Torre’s / La Bodega

Equus / Jack’s Bar Hiko-A-Mon Irish Rover, Too Lilly’s Bistro Limestone Restaurant Mayan Café Meridian Café Napa River Grill North End Café - Crescent Hill North End Café - Highlands Palermo Viejo RIVUE Restaurant & Lounge Seviche Sweet Surrender The Irish Rover Uptown Café Vincenzo’s Winston’s Restaurant at Sullivan University

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café with a European flair.” The eclectic menu includes arepas, pizzettes (individual thin-crust pizzas), muffuletta, egg salad sandwiches, panini and empanadas with Chilean, Puerto Rican and Jamaican flavors. $ L D f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CHARLESTOWN TRAIN STATION SEAFOOD 1041 Highway 62, Charlestown IN, 256-4200. A family friendly place with outdoor picnic-table seating and the kind of familiar fried fillets everyone likes. $ L D pf CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition.

The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County.

Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f FISH-FRY HOUSE 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583.

The owners of Sharom’s and Zaytun have opened a new fish house, serving up the crisp, fresh fried seafood that made Sharom’s an Okolona favorite. $$ L D hp THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993.

Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ Br L D f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474.

This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ L D JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp

brought this new upscale eatery and cocktail lounge, upstairs in the same building Morton’s steakhouse. The menu turns back the clock to early 1900s style food — dishes like crab Louie, shrimp cocktail, steak Diane, and coq au vin, with a “highlevel” cocktail program. $$$$ D hp

OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp

STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp

PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633.

If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe

PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. The big news at Pat’s: credit cards now accepted! $$$$ D pf

RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf

PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D

CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader’s idea to cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices hit such a popular nerve that he opened two more locations on the Kentucky side of the river. The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D THE ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 618-1917. Two Philadelphia restaurateurs have

TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy.

(Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 2809160, Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160. 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp

EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790 . Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearing tight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typical bar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encourage patrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winning corporate concept, don’t you think? $$ L D hpf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132.

This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D hf

CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. Hurricane Katrina blew chef Richard Lowe into town, bringing from New Orleans his Cajun/ Creole/Caribbean magic to Coach Lamp’s kitchen.

The restored 137-year-old building has a classic bar on one side and an upscale white-tablecloth dining room on the other side. $$$ L D pf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001.

When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular East End spot. $ L D f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ Br L D hpf EDESIA GARDENS 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 263-7100.

Named after the Roman goddess of gourmet foods, this banquet and events space also offers a Sunday brunch buffet to the public. $$ Br FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little near-West End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h

CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp

FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D

CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe

FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 290-7273.

Since 1952, serving up rolled oysters, German comfort food and fried chicken to Germantown residents and fans from far and wide. Where else can you find limburger and braunsweiger with onions on rye and Warsteiner on draft? $ D f

CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp

GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN. 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this

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national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp

GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced.

The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe

but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoeshaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere.

The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h

PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. This newly renovated casualdining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D hp PUB LOUISVILLE 412 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 569-7782. Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ L D hpfe RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf

OPEN LATE NIGHTS 7 DAYS A WEEK SAT / SUN BRUNCH

JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings.

Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe

700 East Market Street GarageOnMarket.com (502) 749-7100

KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646.

Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726.

This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ L D pf LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

A serious restaurant hides behind the funky décor and madcap events (like the annual New Year’s Eve pajama party and the Ugly Lamp contest). The Bourbon Ball French toast beat Bobby Flay on a Throwdown. And everyone loves the fried green tomato BLT. The World of Swirl store in the front has been described as “Cracker Barrel on acid.” $$ B Br L D pf MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588.

This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. A rooftop patio packs them in on warm evenings. $ L D hpfe MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone,

O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $$BBr L PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif is based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there’s a shop attached, where you can purchase aprons, cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$$$ B Br L D

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001.

This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391. This Columbus-based wings-andbrews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first three Louisville properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2012 69

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THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for over 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners.

You’ll find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ L D hp SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h

TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria — including politicians and national entertainers — are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices.

Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ L D FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D

TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. Gabe Sowder, formerly of 610 Magnolia, set out on his own serving funky tacos at the Douglass Loop Farmer’s Market.

But now the Iron Chef alum (he was part of Edward Lee’s 2010 winning team) has taken over the old Toast on Market space to continue his exploration of everyone’s favorite “Mexican” food. House-made tortillas packed with ingredients ranging from traditional to the unique — duck, lamb and chorizo — make up the bill of fare. $ L D hf

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COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L

DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D

SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. Inside the Chicago Gyro’s space on Brownsboro Road you will find Sullivan grads Darnell Ferguson and Ryan Bryson offering an ambitious morning menu including beignets and coffee, granolaencrusted French toast, red velvet pancakes and peanut butter and jelly oatmeal. $ B f

TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999.

Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp

CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h

D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blueplate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D

STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth, and opened a second outlet across the river. The original NuLu location has moved out of the funky, cavernous old theater building to the former Artemisia a few doors west. $ B Br L pf

THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D

COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D

SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f

TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S, Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf

the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ L D pf

GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026.

Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $ B L D

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off

HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ B L D HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8980, 1085 Market St., Charlestown IN, 256-3780. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends

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a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh KUM’S KAFE 4125 Preston Hwy., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L MIKE & MATT’S 2835 Holman Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 590-1565. Good country cooking in the Amish tradition. Fried chicken, of course, but also more interesting dishes such as walleye, elk, quail and frogs’ legs. Real mashed potatoes and made-fromscratch pies a specialty. $$ L D f MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both locations. $$ L NANA’S COUNTRY KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp QUEENIE’S SOUL CUISINE 2956 Richland Ave., 4514698. Queenie has been cooking for her 13 siblings since she was a teenager. Finally she is getting paid to do it. She and her son serve breakfast, lunch and dinner: chicken and waffles, meatloaf, a soul burrito, chicken (fried, smothered or baked) and daily specials. $$ L D f SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round.

Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food.

Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $BL

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the

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steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ B L LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ L D PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ L D

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275.

On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ Br D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next?

How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept?

You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe

IMPROV COMEDY CLUB & WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 581-1332. The menu is no joke at this downtown club. Chow down on well-grilled steaks, fresh seafood and ribs that rank with the best in the city before the nationallyknown comedy acts start. $$$ L D hpf INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790.

“Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ L D hp JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ACHILLES PIZZA 1730 Williamsburg Sq., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8882. $$ L D h ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D

ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $$ L D h BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ L D hp BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730.

One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese.

The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf

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DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424.

The former Karem’s Deli location in St. Matthews finally has a new tenant, serving pizza by the slice, as well as a mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers, including some BBC brews. $$ L D hpf

MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920.

This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ L D

FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $$ L D h

FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h

OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700.

This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp

FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ L D h

ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the new arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf

FX PIZZA 4865 Old Vincennes Rd., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0086. The Newton brothers of Southern Indiana, veterans of the corporate chain pizza world, have named their own pizzeria after their grandfather, Francis Xavier. In addition to handtossed thin-crust, New York-style pies, FX offers chicken wings and breadsticks, and its owners are planning a nine-hole miniature golf course. $$ L D

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ L D h JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 749-8400.

The Kansas City chain has opened its first location in Kentucky, in Norton Commons, offering New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D

PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Former restaurant chef turned pizza guy Allan Rosenberg continues to satisfy his Highlands customers with his crispy-crust New York-style pizzas with premium, made in-house toppings. Take home an18-inch pies, scarf down an oversized slice for a snack, or make a meal from the calzones, breadsticks and short list of salads and desserts. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644.

Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D

hpf

PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ L D ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 6908500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counter-service only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D hpf ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a

JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he LA BOCCA PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. Going northwest from I-265 you will find the latest in pizza choices at La Bocca, which is Italian for “the mouth.” You can fill your “bocca” with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ LDp

CRAFTED SINCE 1976 10601 FISCHER PARK DRIVE | 502.657.5700 9010 TAYLORSVILLE ROAD | 502.301.7700

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growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484.

This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700.

Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D hf SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D hf SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded into St. Matthews, and now downtown too. All four locations are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L D h STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. Long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. Finally the attractive space at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Grinstead is luring some commercial occupants. The first restaurant in there is a pizza concept from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ L D hp WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings.

“The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BABY D’S BAGELS & DELI 2009 Highland Ave., 365-3354. This Highlands deli serves steamed bagel sandwiches and wraps, made with housesmoked and roasted meats. Look for funky sandwich names and desserts such as chocolatecovered bacon. $ B L D h 74 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D BOARDWALK FRESH BURGERS AND FRIES 2909 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-0200. With outlets in 12 states, Boardwalk now brings their fresh fries and burgers concept to the Ohio Valley.

A step up from fast food with large patties that can be dressed to one’s whim. $$ L D BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel / deli sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing.

Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ B L DP UPDOGS 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9480768. The long-lived but now defunct Little Chef diner at the corner of New Albany’s Market and Bank Streets has a new life and identity. Stop in for a variety of wiener concoctions, or an ice cream sandwich. $ f EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups,

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f

wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ L D f

THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899.

The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L

LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ L D f

FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiralsliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f

MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MAIN STREET COFFEE AND DELI 217 E. Main St., 992-8080. Offering sandwiches made from housesmoked and cured pastrami, sorghum bacon and other artisanal foods. $ B L f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ L NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004.

An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton,

this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160.

Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100. Downtown lunch goers have a new sandwich choice in this Chicago-based chain that is now fran-

JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 587-0550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393, 415 W. Jefferson St., 625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany IN. 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884, 341 W. Cardinal Blvd., 634-3334. This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ L D f JOE DAVOLA’S 901 Barret Ave., 690-5377. Near the government center in the lower Highlands, this popular sandwich shop features healthful choices for lunch. $ L LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831.

Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LIL’ CHEEZERS 938 Baxter Ave., 409-7424. The food truck specializing in sort-of upscale grilled cheese sandwiches has added a brick and mortar spot in the Highlands. Its specialties include caprese grilled cheese (tomato and mozzarella) and a Fancy Pants that includes Brie, caramelized onions, apple and walnuts. $ L D hf LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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chising. The Fourth and Jefferson St. location is run by two escapees from the financial services world who depended on Chicago Potbelly sandwiches to get them through grueling trading sessions. $ L D QUIZNO’S SUBS (7 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products.

Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place has goals of serving more healthful — and tasty — choices.

Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971.

Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store will evoke the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ L D THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075.

The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $ L TOM+CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494. Louisville’s first outlet of the Cincinnati-based soup and sandwich chain fills the space once occupied by Penn Station Subs. Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. Daily specials augment the 15 core menu choices. $ L D f

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W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another new chain sets up shop downtown, giving all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BLUEGRASS BBQ 119 Saint Matthews Ave., 8933111. Taking over the space vacated by the Neighborhood Café, this tiny BBQ joint in the heart of St. Matthews offers the usual smoked meats: pulled pork and brisket, chicken and ribs, and a panoply of side dishes. $ L D BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $LD DERBY CITY BBQ AND CATERING 2932 S. Fourth St., 690-4204. $ L D DUVALLE GRUB-N-SCRUB 3501 Cane Run Rd., 7721277. Pull into this Shively carwash and get some Boss Hog’s BBQ while the boys detail your wheels.

Ribs and rib tips, chicken wings, hamburgers, pulled pork and chicken, milk shakes, and soft serve cones. $ L D FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Barbecue finally joins the restaurant renaissance in New Albany, with the renovation of a stately old commercial building into a full-service smokery. Owner Ryan Rogers, graduate of the French Culinary Institute, plans to offer sloooowsmoked meats and New Albany’s largest selection of Bourbons. $ L D hpf

all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. $ L D pf HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce.

A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808.

Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked takehome turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smokey Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ L D RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ L D RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. House specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907.

“Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f

FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D

SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422.

A new smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p

FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes

SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find live entertainment three nights weekly. $$ LDf SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops.

Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. This recent addition to the Baxter corridor, offers bar food, luring both rockers and good ol’ boys with a combination of rock and country and western in its music plan. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette Ct., 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 285-9464, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D hf BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf THE BREWERY 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. First renovated in 1984, including the antique bar from the old Kunz’s, the original owners are back from a decade-long hiatus serving wings and calamari, chili, salads, burgers, sandwiches, subs and pastas.

And beer. $$ L D hpfe BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ L D hpfe BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. New ownership has spiffed up this Shively outpost now offering honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Rueben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs

including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing. A game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp CHAMPPS AMERICANA 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620.

The Fox & Hound sports bar concept wasn’t quite working at this Oxmoor location, so its Wichita owners are trying another sports bar concept. If you like “big, made-from-scratch burgers piled sky high, big selection of ice-cold beers and big ... no, massive screens on the walls,” it’s your kind of place. $$$ L D hp CLARK’S LYNDON VILLAGE PUB 813 Lyndon Ln., 290-7334. This sports bar-music venue highbred features Clark, a guitarist himself, joining musicians on stage for frequent jam sessions. Daily bar specials run the gamut of wine, spirits and beer for sports fans who also can catch games on its nine flatscreen TVs. In addition to the usual sliders and wings, the menu includes a fried bologna and bacon, egg and cheese sandwich. $$ L D hpfe CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf CORNER DOOR BAR & GRILL 2222 Dundee Rd., 708-2885. This Douglass Loop spot features craft brews on tap, a tasteful selection of wine, and reasonably priced food, including the signature Zip Burger and ribbon fries. The Facebook page also boasts “the best-looking bartenders and wait staff in the Highlands.” $ L D hpfe DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 895-7513. $ L D

hpfe

DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr.,384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group now has two Louisville outlets, the first in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Familyfriendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700.

Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930.

Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616.

A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D

hp

GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Hilton Garden Inn. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908.

The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030.

This new bar and grill adds more life to an increasingly busy New Albany downtown with live entertainment every Friday and Saturday, a daily $1 draft beer pick, a full menu including a daily $6 Blue Plate Special (think comfort foods like Salisbury steak and liver and onions), and an allyou-can-eat fish, fries and slaw choice. $$ L D

hpfe

THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Longstanding blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ L D hpe MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2pound burger menu — jalapeno burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe

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RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574 1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps concerned on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, half-pint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoal-grilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337.

Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere.

The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ L D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., (Mid City Mall) 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which will take over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews by the end of August, promises to maintain a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu will encompass everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000. This Texasbased chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings 78 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ L D hpfe

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub.

The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth have teamed up to open a new brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, will serve up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. The food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has morphed into American bistro cuisine, with emphasis on fresh and local ingredients, and daily fish specials.

Devotees will still find steak frites and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007.

More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site near the new arena boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has taken over the key corner location at 4th and Liberty, and will be brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h AL NUUR 2933 S. Fourth St., 210-7623. Another outlet for Arabian food, but one that goes beyond the usual. You can find long-braised lamb shank and roasted goat, as well as shish kebabs, fish and spaghetti. Take out or eat in. $ L D

BELA’S CAFÉ 2933 S. Fourth St., 758-6463. This little Somali café caters mostly to the Muslim community settling in around Churchill Downs, offering cheap, filling, and interestingly spiced foods such as sambusas and nafaqo — a hard-boiled egg in a crust of potato and ground beef, a kind of African Scotch egg. $ L D CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152.

The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-5777. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569.

August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ L D CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D

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CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500.

Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 4918228. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany IN, 945-1818. $ L D

friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D

HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h

MING’S BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893-0822.

Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ L D

HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028.

Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous,

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017.

New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area.

This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767.

Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of

time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ L D h WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881. $ L D

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s first Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $ L D TAMBAYAN KARAOKE BAR & FILIPINO RESTAURANT 9601 Newbridge Rd., 749-2727. $$ L D h

ARATA SUSHI 9207 US 42, 409-4880. Prospect gets a sleek sushi place, with crisp dark modern interior, well-prepared fresh fish and rolls, and a fine selection of sakes. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130.

This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ L D h BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700.

Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ L D DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at this popular café at the corner of Bardstown Rd. and Elmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036.

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get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp

Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D

HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp

ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D

HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651.

Japanese-trained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his artistic skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ L D hp ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets another choice in sushi bars, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp

SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SATO’S ZEN SUSHI & SAKE 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 893-8901. The menu of this Japanese restaurant boasts “Zen salads,” soups, sushi, green tea, red bean and tempura ice cream, and a variety of flavored sakes. $$ L D h SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food

and service make it a pleasant dining destination.

It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Is there a surfeit of sushi around the area? Even Jeffersonville now has its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions.

Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long — this sushi and Asian fusion spot has been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad Thai and curries). $$ L D hp

KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Toki, the original owner of Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant, is back at the helm, serving elegant Japanese cooking in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ D hf

JAPANESE

GRILL

AND

SUSHI

SAPPOROJAPANESE.COM 1706 BARDSTOWN RD. 502.479.5550

MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040.

Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h

649 SOUTH 4TH ST. 502.589.3333

MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf OASIS SUSHI & SOUL 3311 Preston Hwy., 3758766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya Sushi Bar have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ D h OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829, 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot has opened a second location in the Upper Highlands. $$ L D h OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing

DINNER ONLY HIBACHI GRILL RESERVATIONS RECOMMENDED

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CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oeschli Ave., 290-8900. This St. Matthews site behind the Old Sears building housed several other restaurants, and now the promise of Korean food in St. Matthews has many ethnic food fans salivating. $ L D KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h

folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrÊes — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815.

You’ll find this small cafĂŠ tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.â€? Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D

Voted

“We are committed to using locally and organically grown produce and naturally raised local meats when available.�

Hours of Operation Tuesday - Thursday Lunch 11am - 2:30pm, Dinner 4:30pm - 9pm Friday & Saturday Lunch 11am - 2:30pm, Dinner 4:30pm - 9:30pm Sunday -- Dinner 4pm - 9pm

8BMMBDF "WFOVF t 4U .BUUIFXT ,: MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it’s vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. Look for it in the former True Thai location and under new owners. $$ L D SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained Thai chef have built upon the popularity of their St. Matthews spot and opened a second location in Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thaistyle “fusion� dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ L D f TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the

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LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass CafÊ offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h

PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is the newest dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, pho, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,� building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ L D hpf

SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959.

A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D

NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the bahn mih and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f

SOORA KOREAN RESTAURANT 2840 Goose Creek Rd., 339-5888. The big space on Goose Creek has seen a lot of ethnic food service in the last few years — Latino, Turkish, and now Korean. If you are familiar with Korean foods, there will be little to surprise you. Barbecues and bee bim bop. $$ L D

GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 4264945. The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls� including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeno and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p

and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp

502.891.8859 XXX OBNOBNDBGF DPN THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ L D THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D

PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249.

Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. Vietnamese cuisine joins the choices for residents, with this newest addition to the dining array at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne (where Masterson’s used to be). $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114.

Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919.

Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, family-owned Bosna-Mak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847.

Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Bill Lynch and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe

CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese

GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. This French bistro, run by French-

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Canadian chocolatiers, is expanding into a second Westport Village location.Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. The Ton brothers are trying it again in NuLu. The former 732 Social location has been renovated, and Bobby Benjamin, recently chef at the Oakroom, will head the kitchen. The general menu concept will be French country cooking, but done with modern touches such as sous vide. $$$ B L D hpf LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. The New Albany dining renaissance gains a French bistro to extend the range of international dining options. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau will serve prix-fixe dinners typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne.

Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ D GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177.

Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

the Whiskey Row complex, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. Now the owners have rehabbed the funky underpinnings of their building into a bar area and dubbed it “The Cellar,” focusing on an aggressive Bourbon program and live entertainment. $$ L D hpfe RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find

just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D

hpf

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f

IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 944-1929.

The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ D hpe IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor.

Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D LA BOCCA 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495.

This addition to the dining explosion in New Albany serves Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ L D pf LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ D f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf MOZZARIA ITALIAN EATERY 450 S. Fourth St., 618-1904. Matt Antonovich of Mozz has stepped into the old Red Star space at 4th Street Live with his new causal Italian birreria and gastropub. Look for dishes that made New York’s Little Italy a mecca for devotees of classic Italian-American pastas.

Also, Roman-style flatbread pizzas and lighter chicken, beef and seafood fare from the grill. $$ L D hpfe OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in

the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.)

ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400.

Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp

VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.)

VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D hpfe

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955.

Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella.

But the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ D hp LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Next door to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanishstyle tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ D hp LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179. Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndon-area restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish.

Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ L D p MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461.

Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892.

With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 479-3353.

It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs.

There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabistyle (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f 84 Winter 2012 www.foodanddine.com

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SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and an impressively tasty buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ L D

into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Although Majid Ghavami has sold his interest in his downtown Persian restaurant, he sold it to Reza and Mimi Dabbagh, (she also co-owns August Moon), who are keeping on most of the staff and continuing with the popular menu: rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf

TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes.

Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ L D f

AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local minichain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f

BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip.

Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf

THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504 State St., New Albany IN, (502) 276-5894. Choose from up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the table with friends at this first hookah bar in southern Indiana. Also on offer is a full bar and American pub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corn dogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso to munch on between puffs. $ L D hpe ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part

of the draw in this upper Highlands eatery with an eclectic Middle Eastern menu. Excellent gyros and friendly, sympathetic service kick it up a notch from other hummus joints. $ L D h ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ LD

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Ln., 425-0096, 426 W. Jefferson St., 5899245, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular mini-chain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320.

Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant.

Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D f MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. The owners of Little Jerusalem lost their lease on Taylor Blvd., and found a new location in a former pizza joint out on Preston, which continues to grow its own international restaurant row. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and felafel. $$ L D h PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $$ L D PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings

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CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D

ADOBO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 5612 Bardstown Rd., 618-3430. Fern Creek gets some spicy Mexican with this eatery. The guacamole bar offers a huge portion in a rough stone mortar, just the thing to munch on while sipping a margarita special. $$ L D p

CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 4094828. Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnic offerings in town, has another outlet in the busy upper Clifton/lower Crescent Hill dining core.

Usimg local, seasonal food sources, the menu offers weekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/ Central American food traditions. $$ L D pf

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f

EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona.

Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana Blues’ extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a halfdozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D pfe HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D pf

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CAFÉ AROMA 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-3434. Once Cycler’s Café, this little place is a true mom-andpop run family eatery. The ambitious, eclectic menu might be a stretch — stick to the Mexican fare that the owners know best. $ L D f EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ L D h EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Early fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, have found much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As authentic a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in landlocked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p

EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf EL RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Formerly El Rey’s, the new owner has spiffed the space up a bit, and aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicierthan-usual queso. $$ L D p EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run

by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272.

A family oriented Mexican restaurant joins the choices at this Hurstbourne shopping strip location. All the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf

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EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf ERNESTO’S 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291.

One of the first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ L D pfe FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823.

Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. The hyphenated name emphasizes the menu’s exploration of different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938.$LD f LA PASADITA 245 Market St., Charlestown IN, 2567918. $ B L D

LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 336 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-3620. Starting as a little walk-in space, the popularity of La Rosita’s traditional Mexican food, offering some of the most vivid Latin flavors we had encountered, led to a move to a huge, former department store space near the action in the New Albany downtown renaissance. $ B L D LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These authentic little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 7423485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront has opened a second location, both offering memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ L D p LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in

Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf LOS MEZCALES 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-3466. A “family Mexican restaurant” on a strip with plenty of such to choose from. Serving huevos ranchero, burritos, chicken a la plancha and camarones a la diabla. $ L D MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance in the E. Market St. Nulu district.

Opening his stylish bistro, serving distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, before NuLu was fashionable. For the second year his Market Mondays promote locally-raised pastured meats. $$ L D MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 9339523. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service. $ L D pe MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880.$LDp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (13 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and

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Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 8953333. Ramiro Gandara bought out his partners and gave his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, control of the kitchen. His Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has a new name and some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE 318 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 2562595. $ L D SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565. These four Mexican-American eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St,. 583-5505. Saul Garcia, owner of this expanding chain, seems to have a knack for finding hot locations to serve his satisfying fare. He was down on Main St.’s museum row before the museums were, took over the former Raw space on the southern edge of the hot Fourth St. Live corridor, and now has his classiest location on Whiskey Row, a handsome renovation with a more sophisticated Mexican decor, and a broader Mexican menu. $ L D hpf TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront.

This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana Tex-Mex restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf

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MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D

JAVA BREWING COMPANY 4828 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 339-4744, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe

SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424.

Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ LDf

LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L

TACO PUNK 736 E. Market St., 584-8226. (See review under Casual Dining)

PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 218-0611.$

TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (15 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations.

Sip one while savoring the river-view at its flagship River Road location. $ L D hp

BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076.

(See review under Bistro/Contemporary.)

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ hf EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ fe GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Bardstown Rd., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 119 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 454-5212, 3060 Bardstown Rd., 458-7770, 1301 Herr Ln., 4259199, 822 Eastern Pkwy., 637-1060, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 618-3420. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ hfe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ hf THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe

KING’S COFFEE 406 Popp Ave., Sellersburg IN, 7489448. Sellersburg gets a taste of espresso, chai and exotic teas, along with fresh pastries. $

MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867.$f PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. Another addition to the burgeoning choices in NuLu district, this little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $ f QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN 590-3426. This local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces has opened two new locations, in the new U of L.student housing, and in the midst of the NuLu action. $ f RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911.

The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this new coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives more choice to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah till 2 a.m. $ hf SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza Hotel) 491-4830. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ VINT COFFEE 462 S. Fourth St., 561-2041, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 8948060, 4901 Brownsboro Rd., 425-3688, 3600 Dutchmans Ln., 459-0660. Five Java Brewing Co. locations have assumed a new identity as VINT (although three other locations will remain under the Java name). The rebranding of the these spots reflects their assertion that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” Re-furbished interiors invite you in for morning coffee, afternoon tea or an evening of libations. $ f

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ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies, cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookie sells out. $ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940, 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House) 588-4097.

Erika Chavez-Graziano has added a downtown outlet, along with her confectionary operation to the artsy Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ hf THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter), and is in the throes of expansion, into the historic building on Frankfort next to the old Genny’s Diner and in the U of L project at the old Masterson’s site in Old Louisville. $ hf COPPER CUPCAKE 10616 Meeting St., 708-2418.

The goodies in this gourmet bakery in Norton Commons are baked by a California Culinary Academy graduate who touts using premium ingredients in her confections. On offer are seasonal breakfast breads, regular and filled cupcakes, cookies, whoopie pies and even peanut butter woofers, bone-shaped crunchy chews for “man’s best friend.” $

THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $

JASMIN BAKERY 3825 Bardstown Rd., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery offers fresh breads and rolls, as well as Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B

DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151.

Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$

NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B

DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865.

The first of two new franchises in the area (the other will be in the East End). You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h

PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B

THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$

POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880.

The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ B

GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events.

Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573, 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4422. $ B L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf

STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty: painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays.

Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008.

Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery.

Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN. 284-2867. $ B

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B

h = Late Night p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

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MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 92 1 downtown louisville 93 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 94 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 95 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 96 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 97 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 98 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 98 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 99 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 99 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 100 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 101 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 102 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 103 INDIANA 15 clarksville 103 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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