Winter 2014 (Vol. 46) by Food & Dining Magazine

WINTER 2014 | NOV - DEC - JAN

sushi

sapporo japanese grill & sushi 24 arata sushi 28|kobe japanese steakhouse 26

chef Q&A

patrick roney of the oakroom 12

profile

peng looi of asiatique

restaurant guide over 1,200 restaurant listings and maps to them all 44

plus

(pictured) Oysters from Sapporo

cooking with apples 20|about moonshine seasonal wine picks 18|chocolate party 38 louisville beer history 30|$10 challenge 10

NOW

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WINTER 2014 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF RON MIKULAK BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR STEVE COOMES SCOTT HARPER RON MIKULAK ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS TODD ANTZ JOHN JOHNSON GREG GAPSIS GORDON “GORDO” JACKSON MICHAEL L. JONES MAGAZINE DESIGN AND LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN ROBERT HATFIELD KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR CARLA CARLTON SALES MANAGER GINA R. WOLFE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES RICK DYE ANNETTE B. WHITE IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 (502) 509-EATS (3287)

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@FoodAndDining For Advertising information call 502.509.3287 (EATS) Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. *Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

ON THE COVER: Oysters from Sapporo (see story page 22)

Photo by Dan Dry 4

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contents

WINTER 2014 - VOLUME 46

RESTAURANT GUIDE

DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of over 1,200 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps — a unique resource you can’t find elsewhere.

FEATURES

CHEF Q & A The Oakroom’s Chef Patrick Roney sits down for a little Q&A with Michael L. Jones.

PROFILES

PICK THREE: Sushi

Greg Gapsis looks at the history of sushi, and visits three unique sushi restaurants — Kobe Steakhouse, Arata Sushi, and Sapporo Japanese Grill & Sushi.

PENG LOOI Michael L. Jones checks in with restaurateur Peng S. Looi to learn what it takes to maintain culinary success in Louisville.

COLUMNS STARTERS

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

$10 CHALLENGE Our connoisseur of cheap eats, Ashlee Clark Thompson, tries the new bento boxes at Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion.

FOOD COOKING WITH RON: Cooking with apples

The French version of an apple pie is a topless beauty. One-crust tarts are easy to manage, attractive to serve and tasty.

EASY ENTERTAINING: Celebrate with Chocolate

Numerous National Chocolate Days inspire our party mavens Tim and Lori Laird to devise an all-chocolate party menu for any occasion.

LIQUIDS

SPIRITS: Moonshine Spirits guru Steve Coomes explains how moonshine is shedding its hillbilly provenance to vie for a place in the liquor cabinet.

CORK 101: Holiday Picks

Our panel of wine guys scours the shelves to find the best bottles for holiday partying, both casual and sophisticated.

HIP HOPS: Louisville Beer, Then and Now

Our authority on beer matters, Roger A. Baylor, reviews a new book about the rise and fall, and rise again, of Louisville’s brewing industry. www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014

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comings&goings BY RON MIKULAK

Everyone says the restaurant business is a chancy one, fraught with big uncertainties (Can the market support another one of us? Is our style of food or ambience on the money or past its prime? Will this location draw customers? Will the economic outlook — nationally and locally — encourage people to go out to eat?) and everyday challenges (Can we find a staff that will show up on time and create and serve a product that will draw people back? Will costs remain stable enough to plan ahead? Can I actually print a menu without typos?). Yet Louisville chefs and restaurateurs continue to find the courage to start out or to expand. In the past three months or so, 18 new restaurants have opened or are about to, and seven others have added, or are planning, an additional location. In that same time, 17 restaurants have closed and three others with multiple outlets have closed one but remain in business at other locations. By the numbers, that is 25 openings and 20 closings total. But eight of the spaces that lost a business have quickly found new occupants, ready to try to beat the odds again.

NEW TABLES A number of the new restaurants open or on the cusp of opening are ventures by local veterans who are branching out and trying something new. Most notable among these are Ward 426, Anoosh Bistro, Coconuts Beach Tacos and Cerveza, Roux and Rumplings. When Dean Corbett, Shawn Ward and their partners took over the former Brewery space at 426 Baxter Avenue, their initial intention was to spiff up the interior a bit and serve upscale bar food. But it soon became apparent that Chef Ward’s heart was still with the haute cuisine style he had developed in his almost two decades at Jack Fry’s. So the “slight makeover” morphed into a complete remodel, with the opening of Ward 426 slated for early November. It will be the first high-end, fine-dining restaurant to open from scratch in several years. Returning to Louisville after several years of peripatetic food industry wanderings is Anoosh Shariat, whose Anoosh Bistro replaces Henr y’s Place at 4863 Brownsboro Cour t. Fondly remembered for his eponymous Brownsboro Road restaurant and for the high-style Park Place at Slugger Field, Shariat was eager to return to Louisville and jumped at the chance to take over the handsome space near Holiday Manor. He is still refining his menu concepts, but in the meantime is serving his characteristic elegant and finely prepared dishes.

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It seems the juggernaut that is Fernando Martinez cannot be stopped. After opening The Place Downstairs (now Cena) and El Taco Luchador last year, he has converted the former Tailgaters space across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium, 2787 S. Floyd St., into Coconuts Beach Tacos and Cerveza. A taco and beer place adjacent to U of L that is open all year for lunch and dinner, puts together tailgating packages for home games, and has a large event space for music and dancing. Can anyone see a downside to this idea? And there is talk of Martinez looking at another vacant restaurant property in the Highlands for yet another cool concept. Following a similar entrepreneurial muse is Dustin Staggers, who remade The Monkey Wrench’s kitchen, serving one of the hottest bar food menus in town. He recently left that to do a super-fast renovation of the old La Gallo Rosso space on the alley at 1325 Bardstown Rd., into Roux, a Cajun/Creole restaurant that has immediately drawn happy crowds to its NOLA-style food and ambience. No sooner had he opened the doors to Roux than Staggers announced he will remake the Baby D’s Bagel and Deli space at 2009 Highland Ave. into Rumplings, a ramen noodle and stuffed dumpling shop that he intends to keep open until 5:00 a.m. for food service workers coming off a long night on the line and any other nighthawks who need some Asian comfort food. Staggers is

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beginning to dream of opening a string of unique restaurants à la Martinez. The newest player entering the game from scratch is Eight Up Elevated Drinkery and Kitchen, the restaurant, bar and lounge atop the just-being-completed Hilton Garden Inn at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut. More than just the hotel’s restaurant, Eight Up has an expansive and expandable dining room, a bar area with its own kitchen and menu, and a large glass-walled outdoor patio with fire pits. “Hell’s Kitchen” 2010 runner-up Russell Kook will be Executive Chef, and local boy Len Stevens will manage it all for Concentrics Restaurant Group out of Atlanta. It is setting out to be a player in the downtown dining and social scene with a place to dine sumptuously or to relax over drinks and small plates while looking out over the increasingly interesting street life happening north of Broadway. Only one restaurant chain has made recent effor ts to elbow its way in. Noodles & Company has opened at 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., plans a second store later in November at 4300 Summit Plaza Dr., and thinks seven more locations in the area are possible in the next few years. Two new Asian restaurants have also opened in the eastern suburbs, L & J Asian Cuisine at 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., in Prospect, and Shoyu Asian Fusion & Sushi at 2610 Chamberlain Ln. Two home-style restaurants have opened in the inner suburbs: Marric’s Restaurant at 8402 Hudson Ln., and Sweetie Pie Soul Foods at 4900 Poplar Level Rd. Lone Wolf Family Sports Bar has opened at 5501 Valley Station Rd.; Ville Taqueria is providing Mexican food at 3922 Westport Rd.; and Catrachos Restaurant makes Caribbean fare at 4231 Taylor Blvd. Completing the new Louisville restaurants list is Silo Ethiopian at 328 Woodlawn Ave. Across the river, Don Vito’s Italian Bistro at 207 E. Main St., New Albany, reimagines the space that until recently was Irish Exit; Annette Saco, who developed a fan base at La Gallo Rosso, is in the kitchen. Big Ben’s BBQ is smoking away at 600 Quartermaster Ctr., in Jeffer sonville, and Sweets by Morgan is baking

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and decorating cakes, cupcakes and other confections at 533 Spring St., in Jeffersonville. Six businesses have expanded. The newest Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse is at 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., the newest Five Guys Burgers & Fries is at 4226 Shelbyville Rd., and a new Dickey’s Barbecue Pit is at 9930 Linn Station Rd. Earth Friends Café is opening a second location in the former Wolfgang Puck Express store in the corner of the Convention Center at 221 S. Fourth St.; Hiko A Mon has moved into the space on the north side of the Seelbach, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., for its second outlet; and Brownies The Shed is moving closer in for its second location, taking over a Restaurant Row space at 1578 Bardstown Rd., that briefly was Philly Steak & Burger.

CLOSINGS Three notable closings highlight the range of vicissitudes that plague restaurants. Limestone, which had been a solid, classy presence at 10001 Forest Green Blvd., off Hurstbourne Pkwy., for a decade, just couldn’t come to a reasonable new lease agreement with the landlord and had to close. Owner/chef Jim Gerhardt, a longtime leader among area chefs and an early promoter of locally sourcing his ingredients, is taking a well-earned breather while he looks for his next opportunity. Another longtime restaurant presence, Tumbleweed Tex-Mex Grill, 1201 River Rd., has also had troubles with its landlord, troubles that ended up, after some legal maneuvering over disputed payments or lack thereof, with Tumbleweed’s recent announcement that the waterfront restaurant would close in midNovember after an “Hasta la Vista!” party. Taco Punk, a relatively shorter-lived phenomenon, started as a food truck, made a splash as it settled down at 736 E. Market St., when Toast moved down the street, roused controversy with a very public Kickstarter campaign, and finally succumbed to quality control and cost control problems. Another closing much lamented by fans is Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine, the tiny storefront with a dozen or so seats at 2339 Frankfor t Ave. Chef Lourdes Fronteras

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satisfied lunch customers with her exotically-flavored buffet choices and dinner patrons with value-priced authentic ethnic dishes found nowhere else. An unusual number of quick business turnovers have happened this quarter. Henry’s Place, at 864 Brownsboro Ctr., quickly was reborn as Anoosh Bistro. Caviar, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., closed, but the space has been taken over as the second location for Hiko A Mon. Baby D’s Bagel and Deli at 2009 Highland Ave. closed, but the space will soon become Rumplings; and B.D.’s Mongolian Grill’s location at 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. was snatched up by Tony Palombino for the expansion of his Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse brand. Irish Exit at 209 E. Main St. in New Albany closed, and that space has undergone an ethnic identity transfor mation into Don Vito’s Italian Bistro. The short-lived Philly Steak & Burger store at 1578 Bardstown Rd. will become the second Brownie’s The Shed Grille & Bar. And although two ethnic eateries, Pupuseria y Taqueria Santa Rosa and Sora Sushi & Japanese Cuisine have closed, the locations at 4231 Taylor Blvd. and 2610 Chamberlain Ln. will retain their ethnic identities as Catrachos Restaurant and Shoyu Asian Fusion, respectively, move in. Also closed recently are Café 27, 145 E. Main St. in New Albany; Chocolate Martini Bar, 1106 Lyndon Ln. in Westport Village; Incredible Dave’s, 9236 Westport Rd.; Lancaster’s Cafeteria, 408 E. Lewis and Clark Pkwy., Clarksville; and Vito’s Pizza, 1919 Preston St. In addition, Heine Brothers closed its store at 1307 Herr Ln. in Westport Village; and Papalino’s closed the original pizza outlet at 947 Baxter Ave., but still serves slices, whole pies and more out on Summit Plaza Rd.

CHANGES And, finally, Habana Blues Tapas has moved to 320 Pearl St., New Albany. Pita Hut at 1613 Bardstown Rd. is now Eat a Pita, and Ichiban Samurai at 1510 Lake Short Ct. has changed its name to Mr. Lee’s Ichiban Japanese Steakhouse. Little seems to have changed at either place other than the names. F&D

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$10

challenge

Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion

BY ASHLEE CLARK THOMPSON | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

This challenge is a failure that is indeed a success. As the title suggests, my goal is to spend just $10 on a meal at a local Louisville restaurant. But the expanded bento box lunch menu at Wild Ginger was an intriguing enough deal to spotlight for this column, even though the price surpasses my self-imposed limit. Wild Ginger, located on Bardstown Road, is a sushi restaurant with a healthy heap of Asian fusion. Wild Ginger’s lunch menu had previously featured bento boxes, which owner Jenny Wang says were popular with the midday crowd. A bento box is a singlepor tion meal common in Japanese cuisine that is served in a partitioned container. Bento boxes usually contain some combination of rice, fish, meat and vegetables. In response to the positive feedback, Wild Ginger expanded the bento box menu from just a handful to 11 different types of boxes. The bento boxes are all $10.99, nearly a dollar over my budget for this column. But the amount of food that one receives makes these 99 pennies well worth spending. The additional items

quell any hesitation diners might have when confronted with a meal that comes in neat portions that seem minuscule compared to American-sized entrées. The bento boxes (with a few exceptions) come with two fried dumplings, miso soup, fried or steamed rice and a house salad. The result is a meal that left me pleasantly full and ready to finish my workday. Wild Ginger is a good spot to spend a midweek lunch hour. The expansive seating provides enough personal space to commiserate with co-workers about work without worrying about meddling ears. When the weather is nice, a patio is available in the back for outdoor eating. For inside dining, grab a seat at the sushi bar that’s right next to the door. You get a culinary show that ends in the delivery of your meal, and you have a prime position for Bardstown Road people-watching. Though I had my eyes on the bento boxes, the sushi menu is impressive in its prices and roll combinations. Standard maki rolls such as the Philadelphia, the California and the spicy tuna are

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Good food shouldn’t be a luxur y. In this column, I set out to prove that it is possible to eat a high-quality, low-cost meal within Louisville’s diverse and expanding food scene. My goal is to find a meal at a local restaurant that costs $10 or less (excluding the tip), an ideal limit for those of us who are cashstrapped but have a hard time sacrificing a nice meal outside of the house. all under $10 for four to eight pieces. I promised myself that I would return for dinner soon to try a signature roll (starts at $12 each). These concoctions would make a sushi purist grimace with their use of sauces, mayo and crunch to jazz up each roll. Me? I’m down for some creativity thrown in with my raw fish. I’d love to sample the Wild Ginger roll ($14) with spicy crab meat, tempura shrimp, crunch, eel and avocado, or even the Tuna Tower ($14), which is less roll, more vertical column of spicy tuna, crab meat, cucumber and avocado stacked on a rice cake. Fortunately, the bento box lunch menu is as impressive as its sushi roll counterparts. The bento box selections unite Japanese, Korean and Chinese influences into perfectly portioned boxes that satisfy a variety of cravings. There are enough choices to please the most finicky sushi restaurant customers who might shy away from raw fish or prefer something fried or can’t pick just one dish for lunch. Each box features a main dish, such as chicken, fish, or shrimp teriyaki, nigiri, sashimi or Korean-style bulgogi beef that is paired with a lighter, secondary item like a California roll or tempura vegetables. Vegetarians even have a vegetable bento box with grilled tofu teriyaki, vegetable tempura and vegetable dumplings. My friend Branda and I shared two of the boxes — the #2 with bulgogi beef and vegetable tempura and the #7 with four pieces of chef ’s choice nigiri and four pieces of a California roll. Before we received the bento boxes, our friendly waitress brought out the miso soup as a first course. The smooth, savory soup was dotted with a little seaweed and green onion and was perfect for warming up on the overcast day. We each received our two dumplings before I even made it halfway through my bowl of miso soup. The half-moons were filled with well-seasoned ground pork and fried to a golden crisp. The dumplings were delicious, and I could’ve easily thrown down a couple more.

The actual boxes arrived as I took my last bite of dumpling. Our salads, a pile of crisp lettuce with a few shreds of carrots, were served with the ginger dressing on the side, a perfect solution to sogginess upon arrival. The sushi serving satisfied that special sushi craving that had stirred up in my belly. Branda and I agreed that the star of our lunch was the bulgogi beef bento box. This Korean dish is made up of thinly cut shreds of marinated meat with broccoli. Such slim slices made for tender beef. The tasty sauce in which the beef was cooked had a slightly sweet kick, but I could’ve done without the pool of sauce that remained after all the beef and broccoli were gone. The vegetable fried rice was lighter than the more greasy variety I’m used to when it comes to late-night carryout. It was a delicious accompaniment to both boxes. I’m usually weary when I come across fried vegetables, but the tempura veggies had a light coating that left each slice of carrot or stalk of asparagus closer to its original crispness. The bento box menu at Wild Ginger might be one of the Highlands’ best-kept lunch secrets. This is a good situation for a group lunch setting. There’s ample variety and a lot of food to fight midday hunger. It’s a meal that might fail the challenge, but it definitely succeeds at providing an interesting, filling lunch.

The Bottom Line: Two Bento Boxes: Sushi Bento — nigiri sushi and a California roll, and the Bulgogi Bento — bulgogi beef and vegetable tempura (both served with fried rice, house salad, fried dumplings and miso soup). Total (without tax or tip): $10.99 per person. Mission: Failed

Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion | 1700 Bardstown Rd. | (502) 384-9252 www.foodanddine.com Winter 2014

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CHEF PATRICK RONEY Age: 43 Current Restaurant: The Oakroom (Seelbach Hilton Louisville) Previous Restaurants: Avalon; also worked as a private chef Neighborhood (current): Highlands; a native of Maryland Hometown: Los Angeles, California Significant Other: Heather, a wedding coordinator Kids: Hazel, 5 months Favorite Hobbies: Dining out; water sports Favorite Cookbook: Cooking with the Seasons by Jean-Louis Palladin Favorite Kitchen Gadget: Microplane

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Patrick Roney spent 10 years working as a private chef on yachts. He moved to Louisville twoand-a-half years ago with one goal in mind — to work at The Oakroom, Louisville’s only AAA FiveDiamond restaurant. But even Roney thought it would take more than a few months to land at the restaurant in the Seelbach Hilton Louisville “My wife’s family is from this area and we’ve eaten our way through most of the restaurants in Louisville,” Roney explains. “I always admired The Oakroom. I worked at Avalon for about four months before I heard that The Oakroom needed a Chef de Cuisine. Even I am amazed at how quickly it all happened.” Roney talked to Food & Dining only days after The Oakroom was recertified. Each year AAA reviews nearly 30,000 restaurants, but just 0.2 percent make the Five-Diamond list. Roney was understandably happy that The Oakroom made the cut once again. BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Does the AAA Five-Diamond rating add pressure to your job? Yes. There are only 50 Five-Diamond restaurants in the world. I look at that list all the time to see who my peer group is. It contains the leaders of the culinary world. Did this latest round of judging have you worried? I was working a catering job out of the hotel when I got word that the critic was here. Can you image being out of your kitchen on such an important occasion? You spent most of your career as a private chef on yachts. Why did you want to go back to working in a restaurant? My wife and I wanted to star t a family. Being a private chef, you’re always traveling on someone else’s schedule.

What is your first food memory? Sitting in my mother’s garden with a salt shaker and a ripe tomato, when I was probably about four or five years old.

Why did you become a chef? I used to watch a show on PBS called “Great Chefs.” I found myself glued to the TV every time that show was on.

Did you grow up in a cooking family? Yes. My mom was a very good cook. She was very experimental, which a lot of the time worked out well. A couple of times it was “back to the drawing board.”

What culinary school did you attend? I went to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York.

Who has influenced your cooking the most? The first chef I worked for out of culinary school, George Morrone at One Market Restaurant in San Francisco, who beat me down and built me back up again. He taught me to own my product, own my craft and everything I did in the kitchen.

Do you feel like it was a necessary part of your development as a chef, or did you get more from simply working in the kitchen? It was necessary for me because I hungered for the knowledge. I don’t think culinary school is necessary for everyone. What did you want to be when you grew up? A football player. But the reality of life quickly caught up with me.

(below, from left) Venison chops with wild mushrooms and huckleberry jus served with cauliflower puréed three ways; Za’atar crusted king salmon served with baby heirloom carrots, lentils and Greek yogurt; Three Little Berkshire Pigs — bacon wrapped and collard green stuffed loin, Bourbon and maple belly confit, smoked shoulder tortellini.

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Fill in the blank: If I weren’t a chef, I’d be… I would probably be a teacher, history or science. Who are your favorite chefs? Thomas Keller, Chris Kostow, Joseph Humphrey, and George Morrone.

Besides your own restaurant, what’s your favorite restaurant in Louisville? 610 Magnolia. (Chef de Cuisine) Nick Sullivan is doing a great job over there. I have great respect for (owner) Edward Lee. He puts good talent in his restaurants.

Other than The Oakroom, where’s the first place you’d take an out-of-towner? I’d say Nulu in general. I’d take them on a restaurant walk with a course at each place. Which seasonings don’t you respect? Italian seasoning. Nothing against Italians. It’s the marketing behind it. Which are underrated? Smoked paprika. It adds a nice dimension.

Are there any culinary trends you are wild about right now? Farm to Table. It is trendy right now, but it’s an aspect of being a chef you should be in tune with throughout your career. Any trends you consider overrated? Tacos. What do you think is the next worthwhile food/dining trend? The small plate movement. I think when diners come in they want to try eight things rather than one big entrée. What music was playing in the kitchen last night? One of our favorites is Heartless Bastards. We like Devil Makes Three and Trampled by Turtles. What was the last book you read? Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook, by Daniel Humm. His cookbook tells a story through food and the seasons. What’s your favorite go-to ingredient? Foie gras. Is there a guilty-secret ingredient in your kitchen — something you’d rather not be spotted using? Ranch dressing. Duet of Hudson Valley foie gras served seared and terrine with gooseberry compote, brioche and Marcona almonds.

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What’s in your fridge at home? We like to eat healthy. There is always fresh cut vegetables and dips, hummus. Maybe some steaks, and a lot of eggs.

Is there anything in that home fridge you’d rather not admit to having? It’s not in my fridge, but on my fridge. A giant jar of Jelly Bellys.

What food is your guilty pleasure? Jelly Bellys and ice cream bars. My wife buys these really indulgent ice cream bars.

Is there a food you can’t bring yourself to eat? No. I’ll try anything once.

Favorite quick meal to prepare at home? Sloppy Joes. Your worst kitchen nightmare? The first restaurant that I ran, the walk-in freezer shut down the night before Valentine’s Day and ruined ever ything. We had been voted the most romantic restaurant in the Bay Area, so we were booked to the gills. Best cooking tip for a novice? Don’t be afraid to make a mistake. What is the dumbest thing you’ve ever done with food? I have to watch myself, because I do a lot of dumb things. When I first messed with xanthan gum, a food stabilizer, I used too much. When you do that, it turns to glop. I turned a batch of sauce into a pot of snot. What’s your last meal on earth, if you had the chance to choose? A tasting menu at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas. Most memorable meal? When I worked on the boats, we were at this hotel called Delito. It had this little dump of a dining room. The chef was this 85-year-old woman. She blew my mind with the most amazing seafood. Last food-related “wow moment” was...? A lot of things wow me with food. The last one would have to be the meal that we cooked recently at the annual Field-to-Fork dinner. Every ingredient that we used came from within a 20-mile radius. Give us one reason Louisville should be considered a culinary destination for traveling foodies? Ultimately, it comes down to the dining public. This community really suppor ts creative chefs, which is liberating. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014 15

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BY STEVE COOMES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Shop any decent liquor store and you’ll find a growing number Just when I thought this was going to be a simple piece to write, of clear spirits that aren’t gin, vodka or rum. I’m talking moonshine, Food & Dining editor Ron Mikulak asked me, “Isn’t white dog the a debatably named clear liquor and tasty tribute to the turbulent same as moonshine?” Lacking a good answer, I called local whiskey times of Prohibition. journalist Fred Minnick. Baby Boomers hearing the word “moonshine” recall “The “Frankly, I don’t like the term moonshine because it really means Beverly Hillbillies’” Granny Clampett sipping “white lightnin’” from nothing more than ‘illegal liquor,’ ” said Minnick, author of the book an ear then jug labeled “XXX.” She made her “rheumatiz” Whiskey Women. “When people in the whiskey business talk about medicine from an unknown recipe in an illegal still. Much the white dog, they’re talking about unaged distillate — legal whiskey same occurs today distilled from a stanon the Discovery dardized mashbill,” C h a n n e l ’ s which is the cereal “Moonshiners” grain recipe for the show, where its whiskey’s mash. scofflaw characters When I pointed make ’shine by out that legal moon“recipes” that vary shine makers also with nearly ever y use their own stane p i s o d e . W h a t ’s dard recipes, Minnick available, affordable said, “But none of and fermentable is their recipes meet what gets used. any (third-par ty) Sometimes that’s standard for moonsugar and water, shine because there other times it’s some is none. It’s just a ground corn, sugar marketing term.” and water. Once That’s a notion rotting strawberries not lost on the served as the sugar makers of Midnight source for a batch o’ Moon Moonshine, hooch that emerged Legal “moonshines” available at your local liquor store include, from left, soon-to-be- w h o c l e v e r l y blue from the still. released Louisville-based Derby City Shine; Midnight Moon Moonshine that includes l e v e r a g e d (Thank fully, those a line of six real-fruit flavored spirits; and Kentucky Moonshine from Boundary Oak NASCAR’s historic hard luck hill jacks Distillery in Elizabethtown. In front is the “Moon in November” cocktail (recipe on ties to bootlegging ditched it.) by partnering with next page), made with Cranberry Midnight Moon Moonshine. Similarly, the legal famed driver and distillers are making moonshine without a legally standardized crew chief Junior Johnson. Johnson’s “trade” in the 1940s was recipe. (By comparison, Bourbon makers must follow set that of high-speed hooch hauler. His crimes were reviled by guidelines.) The major difference between made-for-TV hooch Nor th Carolina authorities but later revered by stock car racing and that made legally is their proof. Backwoods batches can be fans impressed by his dirt track driving skills. 120 proof or higher, while some legal ’shines register a tame 40 Part of moonshine’s surging popularity is also tied to new disproof. The bulk of the legal moonshine market options come tillers needing revenue. Moonshine is easy to make and can go in closer to 70 proof, though several are 100 proof. from start to store shelves in weeks. Making it requires none of the Low-proof sippers are exceptionally popular for their easy barreling, aging or evaporative loss common to Bourbon making. drinkability. Great marketing helps as well since it captures the Some distillers use only sugar and water that’s heated, cooled pseudo-naughty essence of drinking something that seems illegal. and fermented with yeast. Others, such as Devil John and Ole Heck, some legal moonshine is even packaged in classic Mason jars Smoky 100, include varying amounts of ground corn for a distinct, resembling vessels of “Papa’s recipe” made by the Baldwin sisters grainy-nutty flavor. Once “cooked,” those ingredients are then on “The Waltons.” distilled at least twice to boost proof and refine flavor. 16 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

liquids | According to Kevin Hall, operations manager at Louisville’s Distilled Spirits Epicenter, an instructional facility for distilling professionals, many clients come with the goal of making Bourbon, but know they must first make clear liquor to generate cash flow. “Very few people are capitalized well enough to get into distilling and make only Bourbon,” said Hall. “So people use that equipment to make flavored vodkas or gins or un-aged brandies or moonshine to generate some revenue and build a brand first.” One of the ’shine segment’s top players, Ole Smoky, bottles its booze anywhere from 40 proof to 100 proof. Its lowerproof items include actual fruit and added flavoring to make straight sipping more appealing. Its 80 proof offerings drink more like a premade cocktail. Mixed in a cocktail is how Brent Goodin, founder and master distiller at Boundary Oak Distillery in Elizabethtown, prefers his 101 proof Kentucky Moonshine. “America was a rum nation at first, but when the country became flush with cheap Caribbean sugar, it was easy to turn it into liquor,” Goodin said. “And when they drank that, they mixed it with fruits as they came into season. I like it mixed with lemonade.” Harrison Hyden said watching women cringe while tasting straight Bourbon on distillery tours helped lead him to create Derby City Shine. The master distiller at the soon-to-be-open business in Phoenix Hill caps his fruit flavored products at 70 proof to make them femme friendly. “(Women) are the main focus, but there are a lot of guys who don’t like Bourbon either,” said Hyden. “It’s made to be poured over ice, but it mixes well, too.” According to Hanna Kandle, bartender at the Old Seelbach Bar, moonshine cocktails are great sippers for winter evenings. She made a few for us while we shot photos, and she described some of her ingredients. “My mindset right now is geared toward cool-weather flavors,” said Kandle. “So I made cranberry syrup with Earl Grey tea and am adding orange peel to use with it. I also made a ginger, peppercorn and Earl Grey syrup that turned out really well.” Kandle, who also co-owns Meta Cocktail Lounge with fiancé Jeremy Johnson, said she’s not seen much moonshine on local bars, but she hopes that changes. “It would be really cool to use it more,

especially in drinks for people from out of town,” Kandle said. “The way people think of moonshine is that it’s very regional here. I think it’s a cool product.”

Moon in November 2 ounces Cranberry Midnight Moon Moonshine 1 ⁄2 ounce ginger-Earl Grey-peppercorn simple syrup (recipe below) 1 dropper Elemakule Tiki bitters 2 dashes Angostura bitters Orange peel, flamed Add all liquids to an ice-filled mixing glass and stir. Strain into rocks-filled short glass. Flame orange zest over drink. Garnish with a fresh cranberry or two. Ginger-Earl Grey-Peppercorn Simple Syrup: In a saucepan combine one cup sugar and one cup water and bring just to a boil while stirring to dissolve. Add one tablespoon grated fresh ginger, remove from heat and let stand for 20 minutes. Add 1⁄4 cup of peppercorns and three Earl Grey tea bags and let steep overnight. The next day, strain into a clean bottle and refrigerate. Will last three weeks in fridge.

Moonshine Dirty Martini 2 ounces moonshine 1 ounce dry vermouth 1 ⁄2 ounce olive brine Combine ingredients and stir on ice until well chilled. Strain into chilled martini glass. Garnish with olives. F&D

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| liquids

Save or Splurge? Our panel of experts helps you decide For many, the seemingly mundane task of picking out an inexpensive but good wine for a party is fraught with worry. Choosing an extravagant bottle for a special occasion can bring on heart palpitations! How little can we spend and still bring to that big party something that will make us look cool or knowledgeable? If we splurge a bit to impress in-laws or business clients, how do we know what we choose will be worth the investment? F&D asked four local knowledgeable wine purveyors to suggest two bottles each that are readily available locally, either for a special gift or as a reliable value purchase (under $20) suitable for holiday imbibing. We suggested a limit of about $50 for the splurge bottle, but some of our experts went a little above that, and gave good reasons. BY RON MIKULAK

F&D’s wine columnist, Scott Harper, who also happens to be a Master Sommelier and manager of Bristol Bar & Grille, Jeffersonville, was the first expert we consulted. Harper chose a crisp Italian white wine for his value choice. Available locally for between $13.50 and $15, Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a type of wine made for centuries in one of the great Medieval hill towns of Tuscany. Harper claims that Michaelangelo knew this wine well, and said that it “kisses, licks, bites and stings you” — which Harper emphasized is high praise. Harper also noted that Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first wine to be classified when the Italian system of appellation control was instituted, a way of ensuring quality of foodstuffs. Harper described the flavor range of the Fontaleoni as “dry, light, crisp and refreshing, citrusy, with a pleasant minerality. It’s a great wine to star t the evening with, goes with appetizers or hors d’oeuvres, and pairs well with shellfish or chicken.” Harper chose for his splurge bottle the Vieux Télégramme 2010, 18 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

from the Chateuaneuf-des-Papes region. “Wines from the Southern Rhone can be made from up to 16 different grape varieties,” Harper explained. “But this one is 100 percent Grenache,” a grape not known for big tannins, which cause puckery bitterness. “I love this wine for its cherry and raspberry fruit notes, and hints of herbes de Provence. It’s full-bodied and rich, a wine to drink with rib roasts.” Though ready to drink now, he said it will continue improving for another 10 years. Harper found both of his bottles at Westport Whiskey and Wine, 1115 Herr Lane, where he thought the Vieux Télégramme was a good value at $47.99.

John Johnson’s value bottle choice at his shop, The Wine Rack, 2632 Frankfort Ave., is a new selection, La Coterie, which he sells for $9.99. “It’s a simple Côtes de Rhône, from a co-op” (the kind of place where savvy locals in France buy their table wines) “and I think they over-deliver.” Blended from Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, three classic Rhone valley grapes, this red wine, according

liquids | to Johnson, is done in typical Côtes de Rhône rouge style, with no oak, pure fruit, and not too tart. “It is a light to medium red, with a lot of red fruit (tart cherries and raspberry), with subtle herbes de Provence notes, just a little bit peppery. It is not tannic, with a little acidity, easy to sip on its own. It outshines other bottles in its price range.” For his “show-off bottle,” Johnson chose something that would be an excellent gift idea for someone special, Etude Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 from Napa. “I went with Etude because so many California wines are released young,” Johnson said — there are a lot of 2011 Cabs on shelves now that will need another couple of years to mellow. “But Etude Vineyard does not release wines too young. When it is available to me, it is ready to drink. I like to recom mend something that is drinking great now, but will age well too.” It is a more expensive pick in this series, selling for $82.99. Johnson described the Etude as having some good oak, but not too much, with an earthy note that he likes. He detects an herbal quality and an under tone of minerality but also good fruit flavors. It is drinkable now, but there is no hurry — it can age another 10 years. “Also, the vineyard farms sustainably, but the main reason that I am more passionate about this one is its consistency. I have given it as a gift personally to important people. It is always a great wine, and when I sell it, I never have any question that it’s not ready or might be too tannic.”

3 Todd Antz

’s inexpensive party wine is a French rosé, Bieler Père et Fils that sells at Antz’s Keg Liquors, 617 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy, Clarksville, Ind., for $12.49. Antz called winemaker Charles Bieler a “rock star” of Provencal winemakers who has a hand in many wines. Antz described it as “a versatile wine that works all times of the year. It’s light and fruity, but not sweet. It can stand up on its own in the heat of the summer, but it is full-flavored enough to stand up to winter time and food. It’s right in the middle — a perfect French rosé.” It would be a good sipping wine at a party, Antz said, neither tannic nor too dry. For a celebratory dinner or a gift, Antz chose a Columbia Valley, Wash., red blend, Col Solare, selling for $55.99. Antz called it a “Big Red,” meaning a wine with a big body and rich mouth feel, giving a range of

satisfactions in the nose and on the tongue. It lingers on the palate, too — all qualities excellent reds provide. “The winemaker is from Tuscany,” Antz explained, “so you have a bit of Italian wine making skill with the great grapes that are grown in Washington,” in this case, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a touch of Malbec . In Antz’s opinion, European winemakers have a longer tradition of blending grape varieties just right. “Too much Cabernet Franc would really dry the wine out, too much Merlot would make it a little too fruity. This wine shows that Old World ability to take the grapes that are there and blend them into just the perfect wine.”

4 Gordo

Jackson at Old Town Liquors, 1529 Bardstown Rd., touted Domaine Sainte-Eugénie La Réserve, a red blend from Corbiere, one of the top wine regions of Languedoc in southern France, which he sells for $15. “Under $20, finding something unique and interesting and truly specific to that part of the world is sometimes difficult,” Jackson said. “But this wine totally gets that job done. It is very versatile. It would work with food or without food, which is important if you bring a wine to a gathering where you don’t know what the food is. It is mediumbodied, pinot noir-like in weight, but fairly rich. The aroma has notes of chocolate and tobacco, while on the palate it is lighter and brighter with lots of ripe fruit. It will go well with lighter foods, like chicken or grilled and roasted meats, but also with cheese. It would be a good turkey wine.” If you are going to shell out for a really special bottle for holiday celebrating, Jackson would go with a true Champagne, Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé, which is $90. “True happiness in a bottle,” was Gordo’s unabashed appraisal. “It has fruit notes in the aroma — pear and peach, that kind of thing, maybe a little ginger. What is not there is a lot of toast and bread dough, which a lot of Champagnes give off. On the palate is lot of flavor of currant and ginger and fruit, but the finish is bone dry, a lingering dry finish with a pleasant minerality and that gingery aspect.” Jackson suggests this is a wine for special occasions. “I think of Champagne as a gathering wine,” he said, “something to share with friends at a special occasion. This is great for a toast at special parties.” F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014 19

| food

BY RON MIKULAK | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

An earwor m from the past has haunted me lately, a 50-year-old ad jingle that irritatingly popped into my head, but one, upon reflection, that offers an insight on how things have changed in America. The chorus of the jingle ran, “Baseball, motherhood, apple pie and Chevrolet,” evoking a lost era when all those images were icons of American wholesomeness. Now, as the 21st centur y zooms onward, football is arguably the defining American sport, Honda and Toyota vie for making the best-selling passenger cars, and motherhood is no longer the soul aspiration of American women. And apples are not even an indigenous American fruit. Plant Botanists have traced the genetic trail of apples to origins in Central Asia, from where Silk Road caravans spread the fruit east and west. Hundreds, perhaps 20 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

thousands, of varieties of apples have been bred from the complicated genetic stock of those ur-apples. European colonists brought apples to America, where they have been interwoven with American history, as Michael Pollan documents in his book, The Botany of Desire. John Chapman — Johnny Appleseed — was a real person, not a merry sower of seeds, but a hard-working nurseryman and salesman who sold orchard stock throughout the Midwestern frontier. The two-crust apple pie became iconic of the American heartland by the time Mad Men copywriters were tasked with making Chevys iconic too. But the two-crust, high-filled pie has its roots in European single-crust fruit tarts, which remain an easier approach to pie baking. The French have two characteristic ways of turning apples into lovely baked

desserts. For the classic tarte aux pommes you have to be patient enough to arrange the apple slices attractively, but the end result is visually rewarding, and quite delicious. I like to make this to show off my home-canned applesauce, but commercial applesauce will work just fine as a base. Pie crusts can be tricky to roll out and to handle. Although I think I can usually master pie dough (and am not too proud to use ready-made grocery store refrigerated crusts when I am too lazy to make from scratch), I was happy to find a norolling press-in crust that is easy to manipulate and pleasant to eat. It worked fine for this tart. The story behind the origin of tarte tatin is, like most origin stories, mostly apocryphal, but if you want to check it out, I have posted my summary of it on the F&D newsfeed. I like this pie because it can

food | be sort of sloppy, but it requires both a castiron frying pan and a strong wrist to flip it properly. So if you suffer from carpal tunnel syndrome, get help in decanting this.

Tarte de pommes The single bottom crust allows for decorative arrangement of the apples. Crust: 1 stick unsalted butter, melted 3 tablespoons sugar 1 ⁄4 teaspoon salt 11⁄4 cups flour, plus more as needed Filling: Applesauce (see directions below for amount to use) 3 to 4 apples, peeled, cored, halved and then sliced into 1⁄8 -inch crescents Juice of half a lemon 1 tablespoon granulated sugar mixed with 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons red currant or apricot jelly To make crust, place melted butter, sugar, salt and flour in a bowl and mix well with a large fork to make a dough that’s moist but not sticky. Press together with fingers, and if sticky, add more flour a tablespoon at a time until dough is soft and workable, but not sticky. Put a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom on a baking sheet or pizza pan (this will make a removable-bottom pan easier to handle). Press the dough into the pan, first pushing it evenly along the sides, and then covering the bottom. Prick bottom of crust several times with tines of a fork. Lightly press a sheet of aluminum foil onto crust, and up against the dough on the sides, fill with pie weights and refrigerate crust in pan for 30 to 60 minutes. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place pan with lined and weighted crust in oven and bake 10 minutes. Remove foil and weights, return crust to oven and bake another 5 minutes or so until crust is lightly browned on sides and bottom. Remove and let cool. Toss sliced apples with lemon juice to prevent browning, then toss with cinnamon sugar. When crust is cooled enough to handle, spread a thin layer (less than a half-inch) of applesauce across bottom. Arrange sliced apples in a decorative pattern on top of applesauce, star ting along the edge and working around, over lapping apple slices, and starting new rows

as needed, moving into the center. Place tart in oven and bake 30 minutes, or until apples are tender and crust is nicely browned. Remove and let cool. In a small saucepan melt the jelly over medium-low heat while stirring. When jelly is melted, brush on top of apples, glazing them lightly. Serve at room temperature. Serves 6 to 8.

Tart Tatin In concept, this is not unlike a pineapple upside-down cake, and therefore a cast-iron skillet is the ideal baking tool. 3 or 4 nice pie apples, peeled, cored and sliced in half Juice of half a lemon 3 ⁄4 cup sugar 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 sheet puff pastry dough, defrosted Heat oven to 375 degrees. Cover peeled, cored and halved apples with water in a bowl, and squeeze in juice of a half lemon, and toss in the lemon. Place 10-inch skillet over a mediumlow heat and add sugar. When sugar begins to melt, start stirring until all the sugar is melted and turns a rich golden color. Remove from heat. Drain apples and discard lemon. Arrange the halved apples cut side up in the pan in a pattern that appeals to you and fit as many in the pan as possible. Cut apples as needed to fill in gaps. Cut the butter into small pieces and scatter over the apples. Return pan to medium heat and continue to cook until sugar turns a rich brown color, shaking pan slightly now and then, but don’t disturb placement of apples. Roll out the puff pastry dough to an 11-inch circle. Place dough over top of apples, and tuck edges of dough as far down over the apples, between sides of pan and apples, as you can manage. Place pan in oven and bake about 30 minutes, until crust is puffed, browned and crisped. Remove from oven and let cool for 10 minutes or so. Run a small knife around the pan to loosen the crust. Working over a sink, place a serving plate over the skillet, and carefully, using pot holders, flip the pan over so that the plate is on the bottom. Carefully remove the pan and reposition any apples that stick to the pan. Scrape any caramel still in the pan over the apples. Serve warm, with vanilla ice cream if desired. Serves 6 to 8. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014 21

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BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

f you could point to any food as singular proof of Louisville’s rapidly evolving dining scene, you might choose sushi. Though it’s been made here since the 1980s, it’s taken nearly 20 years for it to gain a significant presence in the River City. Sachicoma was the city’s first dedicated sushi bar, serving the Asian delicacy out of a downtown location. Once a week, under the banner of “Sushi Thursdays,” Sachicoma served sushi — if you can believe it — at the lunch counter at the 4th Street Woolworths. Others attempted to follow suit, but the Reagan years appeared too soon for an ancient and seemingly exotic dish to gain broad appeal here. By the end of the decade, Sachicoma, which had moved to Baxter Ave., remained Louisville’s only sushi restaurant. But near the arrival of the new millennia, sushi was gaining traction. Sushi bars at area Shogun restaurants began to build a following, and more significant effort took life as Sapporo and Kobe opened in 2001. Since then, the number of sushi restaurants has ballooned to 41, a total not including non-sushi-centered spots like Jeff Ruby’s and Drake’s, which serve it made-to-order, but only as a menu item. Add to that mix the profusion of grocers selling pre-packaged, take-home sushi plates and it’s suddenly never hard to find sushi here. Sushi developed more than 1,000 years ago from a process by which fish was preserved when pressed into containers of rice. That contact developed a lactic acid that yielded a preservative “pickling” agent. Initially only the preserved fish was eaten and the rice discarded, but over the centuries sushi became a combination of both. As it evolved, rice was seasoned with vinegar, and the introduction of sliced raw fish became common. 22 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

Sushi as we know it today focuses on only the finest quality seafood served alone (sashimi), placed over a serving of handmolded rice (nigiri), or combined with vegetables in rolls of rice and often seaweed (maki). And contrary to popular belief, American-style sushi isn’t always raw, especially in maki. What sushi eater doesn’t love cooked eel or fried soft-shell crab peeking out of his maki? It is the last category, maki, where the sushi and the American market have created a revolution, and an area of creativity not to be found in the food’s Japanese homeland. Creations are diverse and colorful and sushi chefs constantly explore new combinations of seafood, condiments, flavorings and sauces. Maki-sushi rolls can range from easily recognizable combinations of traditional ingredients to creations that are rolled, topped, garnished and sauced to the point of resembling an exotic feather boa on a plate. The opportunities for exploration are endless. With so many possibilities, a good tip is to sit at the sushi bar and tell the chef about your favorite seafoods, whether you prefer cooked or raw, chewy or crunchy, mild or spicy, and then request they suggest offerings that fit your palate. Another wise move is to let the chef surprise you, a gesture referred to in Japanese as omakase. On the following pages, we look at three sushi restaurants — Sapporo, Kobe and Arata — known for serving a wide range of all sushi types and educating novices about the treasures of this cuisine through creating traditional and modern versions. (above) Chef Paul Pel from Arata Sushi. (opposite, from left) Oysters from Sapporo; tuna, salmon and hamachi nigiri from Arata; sashimi and nigiri combo from Kobe.

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One of Louisville’s most popular sushi venues is the creation of Mi and U Kim, who met over a sushi bar where U was the chef and Mi an enthusiastic customer. “In a short time we married and then decided to travel 1706 Bardstown Rd. | 5 0 2 . 4 7 9 . 5 5 5 0 — Atlanta, Virginia, Alabama — trying different things 649 S. Fourth St. | 5 0 2 . 5 8 9 . 3 3 3 3 along the way,” family spokesperson Mi Kim said. “We returned to Louisville, where my mother lives, and decided in 1998 to combine our skills to open Sapporo in Middletown. It was only the fourth Japanese-style restaurant in Louisville, compared to 200 in Atlanta. Here people were still afraid of eating raw fish, so we thought it might take a while but that someday it was going to happen here. I guess we were lucky. We didn’t advertise but were really busy from the start.”

SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI

Success at the Middletown location lasted until 2004, during which time the Kims, in another example of luck, opened the present Sapporo location on Bardstown Road in the Highlands. “In 2001, we came to Bardstown Road to buy a vacuum cleaner but saw the ‘For Lease’ sign and called,” Kim said. “Kevin Colgan, the landlord, insisted we wait and he came right over to show us the space. At the time there weren’t so many restaurants in the neighborhood, just the Bristol, Uptown Café and Café Metro, and Kevin was enthusiastic that Sapporo would be a good fit.” The Kims’ skills and Colgan’s enthusiasm led to Sapporo’s current 13-year success on Bardstown Road and the subsequent opening in 2010 of a second location on South Fourth Street in Louisville’s downtown theater district. “I think most business is a big gamble. It was kind of scary (at Bardstown Road), especially that we opened just two weeks after the terrorist attacks on September 11,” Kim said. “We started slowly with no advertising. We didn’t want a big crowd without being ready for it, but after just three days people were lining up to get in.” “Downtown was another gamble, and maybe we acted two or three years too soon,” Kim continued. “But we see downtown coming and it will be a beautiful place.” The Kims’ focus on the three talismans of good sushi — superior quality, technique, and aesthetics — has clearly developed a loyal following of enthusiastic customers as evidenced by an entry wall covered with more than a dozen “Readers’ Choice” and “Best of …” awards. “Freshness is everything, from the sushigrade seafood and condiments (delivered from Chicago) to all the vegetables, beef and chicken we source locally,” Kim said. “And U has always been creative with dishes others don’t have, wanting to offer a better selection to appeal to a broader public.” Sapporo is renowned for its strong sushi offerings (sashimi, nigiri, and maki), but also has teppanyaki grills (Bardstown Road only), full bar service, attractive Happy Hour deals seven days a week, and an extensive selection of hot and cold appetizers, Japanese-style entrées, and both noodle and fried rice dishes. As a consequence, it caters to a broad range of tastes and lets diners explore at their own pace. “If you’re new, talk with your server and start with something already cooked like seared, thinsliced beef or tuna tataki, served with daikon,” Kim said. “Many times we have customers who 24 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

start out at the hibachi (grill) table and then move into the dining area, and ultimately are at the sushi bar, talking with the chefs and trying various combinations of raw and cooked seafood.” In keeping with the American renaissance in makizushi, Sapporo offers a broad list of both traditional rolls and house specials. They are too varied to categorize here, but each is a delicious step into the world of contemporary sushi now thriving in Louisville. Two examples would be Mi Kim’s favorite, the JP Roll with fried shrimp inside, topped with scallops, shrimp and crab meat which is then baked in a spicy sauce with scallions, tempura flakes (for crunch) and masago (smelt roe). The variety of textures, flavors, and spice remind you that sushi is a meal best savored slowly, one bite at a time. The Flaming Lips roll, the creation of Mr. Ann, a chef transplanted from Georgia, has a similar creative pedigree. Spicy crab meat is combined in the interior with cream cheese, scallion and jalapeño before the whole roll is deep fried and then topped with eel and wasabi mayo. The Bardstown Road location is only open for Happy Hour and dinner, and typically attracts an energetic and noisy vibe. Decorated in a hip, modern style, it has a muted décor that doesn’t interfere with a focus on one’s company or food. Light green walls meet a blue ceiling cleverly accented by yellow, curving ductwork. Gray banquettes, or blue table tops surrounded by gray metal chairs, keep the setting simple while showcasing the long, busy sushi counter and a dark-topped bar offset by stainless steel and glass. Further back, the large teppanyaki grills capable of seating up

to 22 are separated by beautiful stainless steel screens cut into wave forms and grinder-burnished into abstract shapes of shimmering silver and gray suggestive of submarine environments. The downtown Sapporo location is more lowkey and elegant and serves both lunch and dinner. In a contemporary setting befitting New York or Tokyo, one enters a sophisticated setting with a sinuous bar leading into a dining room of cozy booths and, again, a dominant sushi bar. There are no noisy hibachi grills to distract and an added advantage is seating for up to 50 on a roofed patio fronting on Theater Square that can be enclosed against inclement weather. “We have long-time customers from here (the Highlands) who have shifted to downtown as their favorite setting,” Kim said. “Both locations are really modern, very contemporary. Bardstown Road is always packed with an energetic, younger crowd and the drama of the hibachi grills, while downtown is more relaxed, calm, and quiet.” Whichever fits one’s mood, Sapporo has a setting and track record guaranteed to provide a quality experience. “We were voted ‘best sushi’ in a readers’ poll 10 times out of the last 11 years,” Kim said. When asked what they had done to regain the honor, she simply said, “We worked harder.” (clockwise from second row above) Hamachi (yellow tail) sashimi; Owners: Mi Kim (left), and U Kim; Sapporo’s gang of sushi chefs pose for a selfie; Flaming Lip — deep fried crawfish, jalapeño, cream cheese and masago; Mango Madness — cucumber, mango, tempura flake and spicy mayo topped with salmon and avocado salsa; sushi and sashimi deluxe; Tuna takaki.

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Tucked away at the foot of Clark Memorial Bridge on the north bank of the Ohio River, Kobe Japanese Steakhouse was a pioneer in introducing Japanese dining to Southern Indiana 14 years ago. It has proven itself tenacious and effective in drawing, educating, and 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville, IN pleasing a diverse clientele from both sides of the river. 812.280.8500 Billed as a Japanese steakhouse, seafood and teppanyaki restaurant, Kobe offers a broad selection of Japanese dishes and a strong sushi program. In a muted, modern Japanese-style interior, combining taupe and bold red walls accented with bamboo, globe paper lanterns, and a playfully huge ceremonial paper dragon dancing toward the entrance, Kobe offers intimate seated dining, group-friendly teppanyaki tables (where chefs cook meat and fish at tabletop grills while flashily handling knives), and a long, traditional sushi bar. “I love food; it has always been my passion,” Vietnamese-born proprietor Dathao “Dee” Balmorez said of her drive that led to opening Kobe, with her ex-husband, in 2001. “We sold everything we had, our car, our home, and borrowed money from our family. We took our chances and realized we’re only a couple minutes from downtown Louisville. Many people were still going to that city to eat, so we thought we had a chance.”

KOBE JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE

While tides of bridge construction and closures have come and gone — and even now have risen to a crescendo — Kobe’s proximity to downtown and an evermore aware dining public has sustained the dream. “Sushi was a tougher sell at the beginning with locals. People gave awkward looks, leaned back and made faces,” Balmorez said. “But with patience and explanation that sushi included cooked seafood, and at the urging of friends who knew better, they started trying and liking it.” “Fish is healthy, nutritious, light and trendy, and in modern terms sushi is constantly evolving,” Balmorez continued. “Because we have easy parking, a relaxed atmosphere, and downtown is only two minutes across the bridge, we have a lot of lunch customers, including business people. Weekends and holidays attract more teppanyaki customers because they will come with family or friends to sit together and enjoy that experience.” As a sushi pioneer in the Louisville metro area, Balmorez described how Kobe recruited top-line talent who in turn trained a follow-on generation of chefs. One eight-year stint was served by a chef who had already traveled to open Benihanas in capital cities around the globe. Another was recruited from Atlanta, where the Japanese/sushi offerings eclipsed what was available in Louisville. 26 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

Today, lead chefs Tuan Nguyen and Alan Le, have tenures of seven and four years respectively, something of a distinction in the constantly evolving and highly competitive sushi scene. “Serving sushi and raw fish is an art. There are the traditional techniques, but one is always learning, learning,” said Nguyen. “And Americans are very curious, which is leading to constant new ideas.” The “Maki” category, the typical roll with rice and/or seaweed, is the frontier in the American sushi market catalyzed both by a chef ’s creative impulses and relationship with his customers. “Competition has spread knowledge among consumers, so every day we work with the foundation of sushi and the requests we hear from our customers,” Le said. “Food and art go into the chef ’s mind and we can work out a new presentation. If it finds a following, then we’ll get together as a group and try to come up with a name.” Examples of this at Kobe would include the Dragon’s Kiss roll and the Waterfall roll. The former is a colorful and artful assemblage building off a traditional Dragon Roll, which typically features avocado and eel. “We’ve made it more spicy. It has a kick,” Balmorez said. “It includes jalapeños, fried shrimp, scallions, tempura flakes for crunch and Sriracha sauce.” The Waterfall roll, in comparison, is more dense, chewy and, while hardly as showy, it is pleasing on the palate. Constructed of rice, spicy crab, shrimp and asparagus, and topped with shredded crab, tempura crunch, and tobito (flying fish roe), with three different sauces blended in, it offers a distinctive and satisfying experience. As tradition and contemporar y expectation demands Kobe has a selection of warm and two cold sakes to serve as authentic accompaniments while exploring the varieties of sushi. The cold versions are unique in that they come fruit-flavored or unfiltered with a rice residue at the bottom of the bottle, a style that may be an acquired taste, but the slight chewiness added by some of the grains can be pleasant and complement the tastings. Kobe also serves a selection of imported beers, including three Japanese brands — Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo — along with typical domestics. Full cocktail and bar service is available as well as a serviceable selection of white and red wines, which Balmorez said will soon be expanded. “Whether at home with family or here, it is wonderful to see people enjoy good food,” Balmorez said. “One can’t be aloof. You have to do it with heart and if you feel good about what you serve, people will feel that, experience it.” By most measures, Kobe’s heart is pumping and, despite a little bridge work, it is there for all to enjoy. (middle from left) Lover roll — spicy tuna topped with tuna and tobiko; owner Dathao “Dee” Balmorez. (both right and opposite) Sashimi and nigiri combos.

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One of the more recent dedicated sushi bars making a name for itself is Arata Sushi on Louisville’s east side in Prospect. Opened in 2011 by Paras and Deepak Tiwari, experienced investors with a string of 9207 U.S. 42, Prospect, KY restaurants around town, Arata distinguishes itself with an unwavering 502.409.4880 focus on quality food prepared by experienced chefs in an upscale, modern setting. It’s nestled in a strip development along a busy highway so one has to be careful turning in, but once there you enter a setting — put together by local restaurant design maven Dennis Tapp — more typical of cosmopolitan centers like Los Angeles, New York, or South Beach.

ARATA SUSHI

It exudes a quiet elegance, from the etched glass entryway to the muted, orange fern-patterned banquettes that face black tables accented by white ceramic centerpieces and tableware. Indirect, muted lighting predominates, from the stone and glass sushi bar to large, orange-glowing candle-shaped ceiling fixtures. Simple track lights highlight gold and ceramic wall decorations between broad screens where flames rise from a bed of embers. In the intimate dining area seating 52, a few large screen TVs (thankfully without sound) can comfort sports-fixated clientele, but the overall ambience is relaxed, intimate, and focused on the dining experience.

“Personally, sushi is my favorite food, and I’ve experienced it on five continents,” said Paras “Puru” Tiwari. “We don’t serve fried rice here. My concept was to keep focused and put what we saved in labor and ingredients (from a broader menu) right back into the quality of our food. We serve a special product and a quality of service not often available in Louisville.” Tiwari, 30, was raised in a family of entrepreneurs who found success building a portfolio of franchise outlets. But 10 years ago, he convinced his father, Deepak, to let him branch out into independent eateries, which led to partnerships with Billy Fox for J. Gumbos and Saul Garcia with a Sol Aztecas. Seeing another opportunity, he began developing his concept for Arata in 2010, fueled by personal tastes and the creative wave sushi was experiencing around the world but especially in the United States. To execute his vision, Tiwari sought out talented chefs, like current lead chef Paul Pel, who has 25 years of experience, including 20 in Atlanta before coming to Louisville five years ago. When asked about the creative profusion of sushi dishes in America as if it were something new, Pel replied, “It already happened 20 years ago. It’s just new to the Louisville area. “Sushi has very much evolved from simple to sophisticated,” Pel continued. “Sushi now incorporates everything to meet Americans’ broad taste — fried shrimp, soft shell crab, these are not simple, traditional rolls. So part of the experience is how clever the chef is. One learns from experience and goes with what they believe is good.” That special quality of the seafood used in sushi also becomes obvious.

“Bluefin tuna is the top. It is better, softer and doesn’t have the muscle and sinew of yellowtail,” Pel said. “We check all our fish for color, texture, freshness. We look at the backing of the blood line — the darker it is the poorer — and at the eyes and gills. Additionally, different handling is required for what is farm raised or wild caught to ensure there is no contamination from parasites.” In the maki category, Arata serves 36 rolls unique to the restaurant, but all the choices remain consistent with the owner’s philosophy, “What makes sushi is fish,” Tiwari said. “The trick is adding flavor without overpowering it.” The Volcano roll, a combination of fresh tuna with tempura asparagus inside topped with avocado and baked spicy crab that is then torched for 10 to 20 seconds, offers a dense, chewy fish-forward flavor. The Tokyo roll is a little more complex, combining spicy tuna and cucumber inside with a topping of smoked salmon and unagi (eel) drizzled with spicy mayo and chile flakes. It satisfies as a balanced taste with smoky overtones. The Sea Breeze, originally made for a group but now a popular menu item, is “a Hawaiian seafood tartare with two fish ingredients mixed with a variety of fruit,” Pel said. Lighter rolls with fruit in them are not uncommon at Arata, and might even serve as a dessert offering for those so inclined. “We serve six rolls with fruit in them — mango, strawberry, kiwi, etc.,” said Tiwari. “We even have one, the Ozeki, with a tempura-battered banana. And for those who shy away from raw fish, we have many cooked fish offerings, like the completely cooked Las Vegas roll, and vegetarian offerings that contain kampyo, a dried, sweetened gourd, tempurafried vegetables, or pickled radish.” Arata also offers a broad range of appetizers, soups and salads, traditional house rolls and nigiri and sashimi. There is similarly a broad selection of sake, 10 imported and domestic beers, and a remarkable 100 wine offerings from which to select. “The best part of this business is seeing people take that first bite, push their personal envelope, and then lean back with a look of wonder and satisfaction,” Tiwari said. “We are tucked away and our challenge is to let people know we are here. But I know that once we get them in the door, we’ll be their sushi restaurant of choice.” F&D (opposite, top) Tuna, salmon and hamachi nigiri (opposite, L-R) Sea Breeze — tuna, salmon, kiwi, mango, strawberry, avocado and masago; fried jalapeño stuffed with spicy tuna, cream cheese and masago; owners Paras and Thairine Tiwari. (bottom, L-R) Hamachi (yellow tail) sashimi; Light roll — salmon, tuna, crab, avocado, cucumber and Japanese radish. (center) Tokyo Roll — spicy tuna and cucumber topped with unagi, smoked salmon, avocado, spicy mayo and eel sauce.

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

“Anyone who has groped among the dark beer dungeons In post-Colonial years through the early 1800s, beer generally which lie for a number of deep streets under Phoenix Hill would scarcely imagine while in those dark, chilly caves, that far above was of secondary consideration to cider and whiskey — until him the place would grow into such an efflorescence of beauty, substantial numbers of Germans began coming to this area fashion and brightness.” following the revolutions of 1848 in Europe. They brought the From 1865 until 1919, Phoenix Hill Park was Louisville’s formative technological underpinnings of lager brewing, which foremost beer garden, except that beer and sausages weren’t the was poised to explode into a worldwide phenomenon. only attractions. The park was a multi-tasking entertainment Mecca According to Gibson, this 19th-century German diaspora (or Munich), boasting a bandstand, bowling alley, dance hall, skating tended to be more selective and organized than we might assume. rink and velodrome, and even the fabled Hofbrauhaus itself never Upon reaching their ultimate destinations in America, immigrants managed so many thirst-inducing brand extensions atop its were absorbed into full-scale communities. Cultural proclivities lagering cellars. For a half-centur y prior to the advent of included beer as an integral part of daily nutrition and social life, Prohibition, Louisville and consequently, some was a town of brewing Louisville neighborhoods renown, and beer kept were as German as the pace with Bourbon in Fatherland itself. the popular imagination. There were dozens of It’s true that Prohibition small breweries, and smashed the tablets, but beer was consumed even without the villainy voluminously — at of legislated abstention, breakfast (soup with beer’s place in local stale beer as stock); in culture would have the workplace, where changed with passing “small” beer was preyears, as norms brought ferred to mere water; to the area by German and at night, when men immigr ants became gathered over platters exposed to the diffusion of pork and dumplings of the American melting to soothe the rigors of pot. the day. It’s a fascinating story, However, there was and local writer Kevin another viewpoint. Employees at the Paul Reising Brewing Company circa 1890s. The New AlbanyGibson tells it ver y Precisely because these based Reising grew to become the largest brewery in the region, reaching an new arrivals enjoyed well in his new book, annual production of 12,000 barrels of beer in 1891 and 25,000 barrels by Louisville Beer : Derby their tankards, it was a 1913. After several ownership changes, the brewery finally closed in 1935. City Histor y on Draft, natural next step for an account of beer’s rise, fall and resurgence in Louisville. “Know Nothing” nativists to orchestrate a backlash, conflating beer Gibson writes chronologically, beginning with Louisville’s earliest with the evils of immigration, and incorporating pre-existing Anglo-Scottish ale traditions and concluding with today’s local craft xenophobia into a program of opposition. beer boom. He detours briefly to consider the brewing process When anti-immigrant sentiments merged with fundamentalist and beer styles, including our indigenous Kentucky Common and Protestantism, they found a ready ally in do-gooder “progressive” the Bock beers that once proliferated in springtime. groups espousing the imperative of societal improvement, and a Wisely, Gibson does not detour from the beer tale at hand to full-fledged temperance movement was born. attempt a detailed examination of the alpha acid content of It was Carrie Nation-building: God says drinking is bad, and just bittering hops used in pre-Prohibition Pilsner. Rather, he describes look at all those non-English speaking, beer-drinking immigrants the experience of Louisville beer in everyday life, and documents taking our jobs; what’s more, if we’d all work sober and harder, how it has changed over time. we’d be more efficient cogs of capitalism — and that’s the real 30 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

liquids | American religion. Cue hatchets flying, mostly against barroom furniture, but sadly, sometimes aimed at people, too. The period of 1933-1977, between Repeal to Falls City Brewing Company’s closure, is critical, and Gibson does not neglect it. During the 1930s and 1940s, with Prohibition over and America emerging from World War II as the planet’s economic powerhouse, it seemed that a local brewing renaissance was happening. Fehr’s, Oertel’s and Falls City rose from “near” beer to regional prominence almost overnight. The smaller neighborhood breweries were gone, and Louisville’s Big Three profited. But it was an illusion. By the mid-1960s, the verdict already was becoming clear : A regional-sized production brewery in a city like Louisville enjoyed preferential economies of scale when compared to the extinct smaller operators, but larger entities higher up the beer chain could commoditize beer even more efficiently than the regionals. The market was about price point, and the higher end didn’t yet exist apart from a handful of imports. Budweiser and Miller emerged victorious, and Louisville brewing ceased to exist. It didn’t return until 1990, when David Pierce brewed a legal batch of pale ale for the long defunct Charley’s Restaurant on Main Street. Pierce helped open the Silo Brewery in 1992, and manned the brewhouse for Bluegrass Brewing Company from 1993 through 2009. The contemporary brewing era had begun, and it remains vibrant. Louisville Beer is especially useful in providing descriptive attention to the two decades elapsing since brewing’s return. What’s more, this section of Gibson’s narrative offers context, and the inescapable conclusion is that the present-day craft constitutes a revolution all its own, rather than a restoration of past glories. The late Tony Judt had this to say about the historian’s purpose: “You cannot invent or exploit the past for present purposes.” In this sense, although previous epochs of Louisville beer share

similarities, they were very different from what craft beer has become. Impressive annual growth aside, craft brewing in the year 2014 remains a minority-driven, premium-priced niche phenomenon, not the universal cultural norm of the pre-1900 period, when Louisville brewing was genuinely localized at a time when being a locavore almost was a default condition. Granted, beer and food came to Louisville from elsewhere in America, as originally conveyed on river boats, and later in railway cars. At times, beer came from very far away; witness a Louisville hotel restaurant menu in 1857 boasting French wines and Guinness Stout from Dublin. Nonetheless, most beer produced by 19th century Louisville neighborhood breweries was consumed within the same neighborhood. Furthermore, no Louisville craft brewer today can lay claim to the market hegemony of Fehr’s, Oertel’s and Falls City following Prohibition’s end. Judt again: “A history book — assuming its facts are correct — stands or falls by the conviction with which it tells its story. If it rings true to an intelligent, informed reader, then it is a good history book.” Louisville Beer passes this test. The strength of Kevin Gibson’s narrative lies in his ability to convey the way it felt to drink beer in Louisville at various times in the past. Details valued today mattered less back then. Being a beer drinker in Louisville in the year 1890 was not about checking-in, or chasing, trading and hoarding. Rather, it likely involved a healthy dollop of ethnic German-ness; came accompanied with a good bit of childlike mystery as to the process; and resulted in prodigious intake in the relative absence of plasticized tap water, smoothies and teeth-corroding “soft” drinks. This Christmas, maybe consider a good book to go along with the good beer. F&D Louisville Beer, by Kevin Gibson, can be found at most area bookstores, as well as online at www.amazon.com www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014 31

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The Roots of Success Chef Peng S. Looi credits his Malaysian upbringing with keeping him at the top of Louisville’s culinary scene for more than two decades.

It is impossible to appreciate the food of Chef Peng S. Looi without knowing a little bit about Malaysia, the Southeast Asian nation that shares land and maritime borders with Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Malaysia has developed a sophisticated cuisine that incorporates components from all its neighbors with a native twist. This multi-cultural approach to cooking had a huge impact on Looi, who is part-owner and executive chef of two of Louisville’s premier restaurants — Asiatique Restaurant and August Moon Chinese Bistro. Looi, 54, hails from Ipoh, Malaysia, one of the largest cities in the country, and the capital of the Perak state. Ipoh is also well-known for its food culture, which combines elements of Chinese, Malay, and Indian cuisine. This eclectic culinary background provided the foundation for the food at his award-winning restaurants. “I started cooking when I was very young, helping my mother, my sister, and a lady my parents hired to help around the house,” Looi remembers. “Slowly I started learning the techniques. In Asianstyle cooking, as in most cooking, if you can cut you can cook. I was butchering fish, chicken, and all that good stuff at an early age. Malaysia is a big dining destination because most of us, growing up, are exposed to a lot of different cuisines.” Looi left Ipoh at 17 to further his education in the West. His first stop was Manchester, England, where he finished high school. In 1981, Looi moved to the United States to study at the University of Louisville’s J.B. Speed School of Engineering. When he was not in class, the future chef worked as a server in local restaurants and cooked Malaysian food for his friends. Looi was completing an internship at an engineering firm when he realized he enjoyed cooking more than engineering. In 1987, he and a partner, Mimi Ha-Dabbagh, opened August Moon Chinese Bistro on Lexington Road. August Moon offers Chinese cuisine with Southeast Asian influences. Diners can find interesting combinations like goat cheese and crabmeat won tons with Asian salsa, or roasted hoisin duck with pickled root vegetables and Grand Marnier sauce. It didn’t take long for August Moon to become a major player on the Louisville restaurant scene. Looi took August Moon’s popularity as a sign that he had 32 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Chef Peng Looi made the right career choice, although he didn’t feel he needed much validation. He already knew he could cook. “You look around you, a lot of people change careers all the time,” he says. “I’m no different. A lot of chefs I work with at different events, many of them have had different careers at one time. You have to follow your passion.”

CHEF PENG LOOI Asiatique 1767 Bardstown Rd. (502) 451.2749 August Moon 2269 Lexington Rd. (502) 456.6569

Seafood noodle soup with shrimp, scallops, mussels, eggs, enoki and nori.

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(above) Skirt steak skewer with arugula and lemongrass chimichurri. (right, L-R) A view of Asiatique’s dining deck; pork shank with baby carrots, baby corn and fried kale. (opposite, from top) Shrimp dumplings with chives and Chinese black vinegar; Asiatique’s second floor dining room.

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In 1994, Looi par tnered with Pabs Sembillo to open Asiatique, an upscale casual restaurant that specializes in Asian fusion. Over the years, both of Looi’s restaurants have garnered some impressive accolades, especially in the media. Louisville Magazine and the alternative weekly LEO have given multiple awards to each of them. Asiatique was named “Best Upscale Casual” by the now-defunct Prep Magazine. Both restaurants have also been mentioned in the American Automobile Tour Guide, Asian Restaurant News, Bon Appetit and Chef ’s Magazine. Looi also has the distinction of having his food featured on the very first cover of Food & Dining Magazine way back in spring 2003. He says it was humbling to be picked over some of his friends on the local restaurant scene. It is just one of the personal honors he’s received throughout his career. In March 2008, Looi was the first Asian chef to receive the nationally prestigious Jefferson Evans Award for “Chef of the Year.” He has been invited to cook at the prestigious James Beard House multiple times. Looi was a master chef at World Gourmet Summits in Las Vegas and Dubai, UAE. He also appeared at the Epcot Food + Wine Festival in Disney, Houston’s Grand Food and Wine Affair, the Charleston Food and Wine Festival, the Boca Bacchanal in Boca Raton, and the San Diego Food and Wine Affair.

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Looi does not take his status in the culinary world for granted. He says it takes certain skills to climb to the top, but it takes a different set of talents to stay there for several decades. A restaurant owner has to be a businessman, a chef, and a public relations pitchman. Looi is able to meet the demands of a celebrity chef and still cook regularly at both of his restaurants because of the support of his staff. Sous chefs manage the day-to-day activity at August Moon and Asiatique, and most of the staff at each of his establishments are made-up of longtime employees. Looi says the low employee turnover rate is one key to stability and longterm success in the restaurant business. “I thank my staff for what the restaurants are today,” he confesses. “They are a big part of my success. I run a tight crew. They are motivated and well-trained. It is not easy to maintain a consistent high quality, but we just try our best. At the end of the day, if you know you tried your best, you can sleep well.” Another key to success is evolution. Looi holds to the lessons he learned growing up in Malaysia, always leaving himself open to new culinary experiences. He feels there is always more for him to learn, and experimentation keeps the customers coming back. “Being a chef, like anything else, if you stop learning you become stagnant,” he says. “We have a different generation of diners now than when I first started. Because of traveling, people are exposed to more styles of food, cuisines, and flavors. They are willing to try 36 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

new flavors. I always loved Brussels sprouts, but if I served them 15 years ago, no one would touch them. I remember one time I tried to do Foie Gras Fried Rice. It was the biggest flop. Now, it is something I would consider doing again.” The latest sign of change in Looi’s restaurant world is the implementation of a small plates menu at Asiatique. The chef refers to them as Asian tapas.The idea came to him after he realized how much diners enjoyed sampling each other’s food. Looi figured that people would love to be able to sample eight small dishes rather be limited to one big entrée. He made the change on the Fourth of July and has received a positive response from the community. Asiatique’s menu offers an extensive assortment of hot and chilled small plates. Highlights include chicken wing with lemongrass, ginger and gochujang aioli; ceviche with shrimp, scallop, citrus, ponzu oil and naan; and spring roll with crabmeat, goat cheese and spicy miso aioli. Prices range from $8 to $10 for each dish. “The simple fact is that people want more flavors,” Looi says. “Small plates let them take a chance on a dish that they might not order as an entrée. It offers a sense of discovery. Of course, customers can still get a large entrée if they want, but now our menu gives them more options.” Looi returns to Malaysia regularly to judge Culinaire Malaysia, the largest culinary competition in the South East Asian region. The biannual contest is sponsored by the Chefs Association of

Malaysia, Malaysian Hotel Association, and the Ministry of Tourism Malaysia. Categories include everything from Most Outstanding Bartender to the Red Majesty Chef ’s Cup Challenge Trophy. Participating in the Culinaire Malaysia gives Looi a chance to get back to his cooking roots and also learn about the latest innovations in Asian cooking. “Chefs from all over Europe and Asia come to compete,” he says. “So, I can see what they do and talk to other judges. Most of them are like me, chefs by training and profession. We exchange notes and it’s all good. I learn something new every time I visit.” Looi travels throughout the world looking for new ideas and tastes to implement at August Moon or Asiatique, but he also looks for inspiration closer to home. Looi does not see himself in competition with other Louisville restaurant owners. Although they are trying to attract the same dollars, Looi says each local chef has their own skill set and they do well with what they do. He could come up with an idea for the same dish as Kathy Cary at Lilly’s or Dean Corbett at Corbett’s, but because they all have different influences that affect the food, the final dishes would be different. “Most chefs in town are friends,” Looi says. “When I go to their restaurants it is because I appreciate what they do, not to check out the competition. Louisville is a city where people like to eat and drink for entertainment, so there are plenty of customers for everyone. The city is lucky to have such a diverse collection of talent.” Looi’s love of Louisville extends beyond the culinary scene to the community as a whole. He is involved in many philanthropic activities. Looi is the coordinating chef for the Lunar Dinner fundraiser at the Crane House, an Asian cultural institute in Old Louisville. In the past, he has also taken part in events sponsored by Dare to Care, The Healing Place, Juvenile Diabetes Foundation, Kentucky Harvest, and Home of the Innocents. Despite the strong connection to Louisville, Looi says Malaysia is still home. He says Malaysians living overseas often talk about missing the three F’s — friends, family, and food. Although he cooks all day at work, Looi says that when he misses Ipoh, he goes home and makes a Malaysian dish for his wife, Ling Chiu, and their two children Jasmine, 9, and Adam, 7. “I like to expose my family to Malaysian food, which is non-existent in this town,” he says. “I try to expose my children to a lot of cuisines, the way I was as a child. But when I cook Malaysia food it is sometimes because I’m homesick. Food is part of the culture and food can help the homesickness.” F&D

(top) A view from one of Asiatique’s several dining spaces to the dining deck. (center L-R) Asiatique’s metropolitan-style bar; Asiatique’s Sous Chef Sarah Strite. (right) Wok-fired duck nachos, Asian salsa, scallion, spicy miso aioli and corn chips. (opposite) Tea egg with Brussels sprouts, radish kim chee and sambul tumis.

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Celebrate with Chocolate! BY TIM & LORI LAIRD | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY WITH DAVID POWER

ho doesn’t like chocolate? Or holidays? Well, we have a reason to celebrate then, because there are no less than 42 official Chocolate Holidays during the year. And the winter season has a few good ones that have inspired us with party ideas. December 16 is National Chocolate-Covered Anything Day, and December 28 is simply National Chocolate Day. In January, the 17th is National Ditch Your Resolutions Day, an occasion that just cries out for a chocolate binge, and January 27 is National Chocolate Cake Day, so you can binge again. We love chocolate no matter what day it is. The versatility of chocolate is endless, as we show in our recipes below, which are lovely by themselves, but can be put together as a (slightly outrageous) menu for a chocolate-themed party — a winter gala that surely would be well attended. Cocoa adds a wonderful taste profile and depth of flavor to our spice rub, which is delicious on everything from beef to pork to chicken — even on roasted vegetables. For an easy meal, check out our Chicken Mole that is easily prepared in a slow cooker and served with tortillas or over rice. Our Chocolate Decadence dessert with raspberry sauce is a perfect sweet ending to any meal. We have even included chocolate-covered bacon for those who love that sweet and salty combination and want a really fun way to mark December 16’s specialness. On cold evenings or early mornings nothing is more soothing than a warm mug of hot chocolate. Our recipe for this classic favorite will certainly take away the chill and warm you inside. Finally, enjoy our Jack Frost Manhattan with white chocolate liqueur and peppermint schnapps — a perfect cocktail for a chocolate-themed get-together.

38 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

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Café Chocolate (SERVES 2)

1 cup whole milk 1 cup strong hot coffee 11⁄2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chips or finely chopped 1 tablespoon sugar, more if desired In a small saucepan, heat the milk to almost boiling — the top will steam and bubbles will appear along the sides of the pan. In a glass pitcher, add the coffee, chocolate and sugar, stirring until combined. Whisk in the hot milk and add more sugar to taste. Serve in mugs with cookies, biscotti or chocolates.

Chocolate Covered Bacon (SERVES 6-8)

8 ounces chocolate (semi-sweet, bittersweet or white) 1 pound bacon Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the bacon, in a single layer, on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake for 15-20 minutes, depending on the thickness, until almost crisp. Transfer the bacon to a paper-lined platter to drain and finish crisping. Be sure to dry the bacon of all grease before coating. Melt your favorite chocolate (semisweet, bittersweet or white) in the microwave or over a double-boiler on the stovetop. Dip or drizzle over cooked bacon. Once coated, place the bacon in the freezer for a couple of minutes to set.

Chicken Mole (SERVES 4-6)

1 ⁄2 4 2

1 1 3 4 2 1

large onion, chopped cup raisins cloves garlic, chopped tablespoons white sesame seeds, toasted, plus more for garnish chipotle pepper (canned in adobo sauce), finely chopped 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder teaspoons chili powder teaspoons ground cumin teaspoon ground cinnamon (recipe continued)

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1 ⁄2 1 ⁄8 3 1

teaspoon sugar teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground nutmeg pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts Soft tortillas Cilantro, chopped, for garnish Hot sauce, for garnish

In a slow cooker add onion, raisins, garlic, sesame seeds, chipotle pepper and the crushed tomatoes. Stir to combine. Then add the cocoa powder, chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, sugar, coriander and nutmeg. Stir to combine. Put the chicken breasts in the sauce, cover and cook on low until chicken is tender, about five hours. Serve with soft tortillas or with rice. Garnish with additional toasted sesame seeds, cilantro and hot sauce.

Cocoa Spice Ru b 3 3 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 3

tablespoons garlic powder tablespoons ground cumin tablespoons Kosher salt tablespoons dark brown sugar tablespoons chili powder tablespoons ground black pepper tablespoon dry mustard tablespoon white sugar tablespoon onion powder teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder

In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Store in an airtight container. To use, rub the spice mixture on beef, chicken or pork and let stand for 15 minutes before cooking.

Chocol ate Dec aden c e (SERVES 6-8)

6 3 1 1 16 10

whole eggs egg yolks tablespoon sugar tablespoon flour ounces bittersweet chocolate tablespoons (11⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter 1 pint fresh raspberries for garnish Raspberry Sauce for garnish (see recipe at right) Powdered sugar for garnish

Heat oven to 350 degrees. (directions continued)

40 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

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In a mixing bowl, blend the whole eggs, egg yolks, sugar and flour until smooth and thick. Set aside. In the top of a double boiler, melt the chocolate with the butter. Off the heat, slowly add the egg mixture into the chocolate mixture, stirring until incorporated. Pour batter into a greased 8-inch round springform pan. Smooth the top and bake for 15 to 17 minutes. It will seem undercooked, but will set as it cools. To serve, drizzle cake slices with desired amount of raspberry sauce and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Garnish with fresh raspberries.

Raspberry Sauce: 1 12-ounce package frozen raspberries, thawed 1 ⁄3 cup sugar 2 tablespoons Chambord liqueur In a food processor or blender, puree the raspberries with the sugar and Chambord. Pour through a fine mesh sieve to remove the seeds, pressing to get all the liquid. Pour into a small pitcher for serving. Can be made one day in advance.

Jack Frost Man hattan (SERVES 1)

In a shaker with ice, add: 1 ounce Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey 1 ⁄2 ounce white chocolate liqueur 1 ⁄4 ounce peppermint schnapps 2 ounces cream or half & half Shake and strain into a mar tini glass drizzled with chocolate. __________________ A few final words about chocolate: Premium brands are generally worth the extra cost. Chocolate richness is gauged by percent of cocoa solids in the mixture relative to the added sugar; for baking, look for products that are upwards of 60% cocoa solids (our preference is for at least 70%). The baking chocolate found in supermarkets is 100% cocoa, and therefore very bitter. White chocolate is a confection based on sugar, milk, and cocoa butter without the cocoa solids. F&D __________________

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Explore Jeffersonville Jeffersonville — It’s a short drive north across the river, or just a pleasant stroll over the Big Four bridge now. And once you’re there, an historic, reinvigorated downtown awaits exploration. Several antique stores, unusual boutiques, long-standing jewelers, a working oldfashioned candy store and soda fountain, a steamboat museum and an enticing range of eating and drinking places — breweries, bistros, Asian and Mexican restaurants — are ready to serve you. Put on your walking shoes, and visit the Sunny Side. — ADVERTISEMENT—

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dining guide Cuisine Style African..............................70 Asian/Chinese...................70 Asian/Japanese ................72 Asian/Korean ....................74 Asian/Mongolian ...............74 Asian/Thai ........................74 Asian/Vietnamese .............74 Bar & Grill .........................67 Barbecue ..........................66 Bistro/Contemporary.........53 Cafés................................54 Cafeterias .........................62

Cajun/Creole.....................77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin .....77 Casual Dining ...................57 Coffee/Tea House..............79 Desserts/Bakery ...............80 Entertainment Dining ........62 European/French ..............74 European/German.............75 European/Irish ..................75 European/Italian................75 European/Spanish.............76

Fine Dining .......................48 Home Style/Southern ........61 Indian ...............................76 Mexican............................77 Microbreweries.................67 Middle Eastern..................76 Pizza.................................62 Sandwich/Deli ..................65 Seafood ............................56 Southwest/Tex Mex...........77 Steakhouse.......................57 Upscale Casual .................49

Area Maps begin on page 82 Alphabetical Index RESTAURANT

2 Dips & A Shake 211 Clover Lane 321 Deli 60 West Bistro 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China A.J.’s Gyro Café Abyssinia Addis Grill Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café Adrienne’s Italian Against The Grain Brewery Al Watan Aladdin’s Café Alley Cat Café Amici Amillio’s Burritos & More Anchorage Café Andalous Mediterranean Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Cafe Annie May’s Sweets Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Anoosh Bistro Another Place Anselmo’s Italian Bistro Apocalypse Brew Works Applebee’s Arata Sushi Argo Sons Coffee Arni’s Pizza Arno’s Pizza Aroma Café Asahi Japanese Asahi Bento Express Asian Buffet Asian Moon Asiatique Aspen Creek Restaurant Atlantic No. 5 Atrium Café Atypical Man BBQ August Moon Austin’s B3Q BBQ Backyard Burger The Bakery Banh Mi Hero Bank Street Brewhouse Bar Code 1758 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen The Bard’s Town Barry’s Cheese Steaks Basa Modern Vietnamese Baxter’s 942 Bazos Mexican Grill

RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

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80 48 65 49 48 57 70 76 70 70 80 75 68 76 76 54 75 77 54 76 62 62 74 80 62 62 53 65 75 68 57 72 79 62 62 54 72 72 70 70 49 57 54 53 66 70 49 66 65 80 74 68 72 61 62 57 49 68 77

Desserts/Bakery Fine Dining Sandwich/Deli Upscale Casual Fine Dining Casual Dining Asian/Chinese Middle Eastern African African Desserts/Bakery European/Italian Microbreweries Middle Eastern Middle Eastern Cafés European/Italian Mexican Cafés Middle Eastern Pizza Pizza Asian/Vietnamese Desserts/Bakery Pizza Cafeterias Bistro/Contemporary Sandwich/Deli European/Italian Microbreweries Casual Dining Asian/Japanese Coffee/Tea House Pizza Pizza Cafés Asian/Japanese Asian/Japanese Asian/Chinese Asian/Chinese Upscale Casual Casual Dining Cafés Bistro/Contemporary Barbecue Asian/Chinese Upscale Casual Barbecue Sandwich/Deli Desserts/Bakery Asian/Vietnamese Microbreweries Asian/Japanese Home Style/Southern Entertainment Dining Casual Dining Upscale Casual Bar & Grill Mexican

44 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

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1 3 1 3 13 14, 16 1 14 1 1 16 16 1 4 14 5 13 13 5 2 13 4 13 3 1, 12 16 7 1 2 2 [6] 10 6 14 4 14 3 3 14 4 2 11 1 5 3 2 7 14 6 4 2 14 2 2 2 13 2 2 3, 6

RESTAURANT

Bean Street Coffee Co. Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Bella Roma Bendoya Sushi Bar Big Al’s Beeritaville Big Ben’s BBQ Big Four Burgers + Beer Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen Bistro 1860 Wine Bar Bistro 301 Bistro 42 Bistro Le Relais The Bistro BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse Blackstone Grille Blaze Fast Fire’d Pizza BLU Italian Grille Blue Dog Bakery Blue Horse Café Bluegrass Brewing Co. Bluegrass Burgers Bluegrass Café Bombay Grill Bonefish Grill Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza Boombozz Famous Pizza Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse Boomer’s Café Bootleg Barbecue Co. Borromeo’s Pizza Borsalino Coffee Bourbons Bistro Brandon’s BBQ & Pizza Brasserie Provence Bravo! Brazeiros Churrascaria Bread And Breakfast Breadworks Brian’s Deli Brickhouse Tavern & Tap Bristol Bar & Grille Brix Wine Bar Brownie’s “The Shed” Bruegger’s Bagels Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck’s Bud’s Tavern & Barbecue Buffalo Wild Wings Bungalow Joe’s Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burning Bush Grille Butcher’s Best Café 360 Café Aroma Café At Main Street Café Fraiche Café Lou Lou

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

79 62 68 75 72 68 66 58 61 53 53 75 74 62 58 50 62 50 55 58 68 58 55 76 56 61 62 63 55 66 63 79 53 66 74 50 57 80 80 65 58 50 53 68 65 76 58 48 68 68 68 58 65 76 65 76 78 55 55 53

MAP #

Coffee/Tea House 14 Pizza [12] Bar & Grill 5, 3, 14 European/Italian 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 2 Barbecue 16 Casual Dining 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bistro/Contemporary 1 European/Italian 10 European/French 4 Cafeterias 3 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 3 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 13 Microbreweries 1, 3 Casual Dining 3 Cafés 2 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Pizza 12 Pizza 3 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 15 Cafés 1 Barbecue 11, 13 Pizza 13 Coffee/Tea House 4 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 5 European/French 5 Upscale Casual 3 Steakhouse 1 Desserts/Bakery 14 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 6 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Bar & Grill 2, 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 European/Italian 6 Casual Dining 4, 16 Fine Dining 13 Bar & Grill 12 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 Bar & Grill 11 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 13 Middle Eastern 10 Sandwich/Deli 10 Middle Eastern 2 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 6 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3

RESTAURANT

Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café On Meigs Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carrabba’s Italian Grille Casa Fiesta Caspian Grill Persian Café Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Catrachos Restaurant Cattleman’s Roadhouse Cellar Door Chocolates Cena Champions Grill Champions Sports Bar Charim Korean Restaurant Charlestown Pizza Co. Charlie Noble’s Eatery Charr’d Bourbon Kitchen Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Cheer King Star The Cheesecake Factory Cheezy’s Pizza Chef Maria’s Greek Deli Chez Seneba African The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Coast China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chipotle Mexican Grill Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chuck’s Café Chung King Chuy’s City Café Clarksville Seafood Clay Oven Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza Coconut Beach Tacos Coffee Crossing Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Cook N’ Company Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cuban Flavor Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe D’Nalley’s Restaurant Daisy Mae’s Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Dancing Sushi Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Darkstar On The Creek Dasha Barbour’s Bistro Dave & Peg’s Copper Kettle Day’s Espresso Decca Deckers Grilled Sandwiches Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen Devino’s Diamond Pub & Billiards Dickey’s Barbecue Pit Difabio’s Casapela Dino’s Bakery DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub Dish On Market Ditto’s Grill Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Doc Crow’s Don Benito’s Don Vito’s Italian Bistro Double Dragon Double Dragon II Double Dragon 9 Down One Bourbon Bar

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58 74 55 55 74 53 80 63 58 58 76 78 76 57 65 77 57 80 50 58 69 74 63 58 50 61 55 58 70 50 63 65 70 61 61 58 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 71 71 78 72 71 58 71 71 58 71 77 55 56 76 63 69 58 63 78 79 76 80 61 48 50 61 61 55 62 55 55 71 77 58 68 58 80 61 61 76 80 72 65 63 58 61 61 79 50 58 57 55 62 80 65 69 66 76 80 63 53 54 65 50 77 76 71 71 71 69

MAP #

1 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese Cafés 13 Cafés 16 13 Asian/Vietnamese Bistro/Contemporary 2 Desserts/Bakery 7 5 Pizza Casual Dining 10 13 Casual Dining European/Italian 5 Mexican 8 2 Middle Eastern Steakhouse 10, 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 13 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin Steakhouse 6, 13 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 6 Upscale Casual 16 Casual Dining Bar & Grill 1 3 Asian/Korean 16 Pizza Casual Dining 15 6 Upscale Casual Home Style/Southern 1 3 Cafés 8, 13, 15 Casual Dining Asian/Chinese 1 3 Upscale Casual 16 Pizza Cafés 3 African 13 14 Home Style/Southern Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 Asian/Chinese 3, 5 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese Asian/Chinese 16 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Mexican 1, 2, 8 Asian/Japanese 5 12 Asian/Chinese 1, 3 Casual Dining Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,15 Cafés 1 Seafood 15 Indian 5 Pizza 2 Bar & Grill 13, 14, 16 Casual Dining 1 Pizza 3 Mexican 13 Coffee/Tea House 14 European/Italian 1, 16 Desserts/Bakery 2,5,13,14 Home Style/Southern 13 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 5 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Cafés 15 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 11 Casual Dining 6, 15 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Desserts/Bakery 3 Home Style/Southern 1 Home Style/Southern 14 Indian 11 Desserts/Bakery 13 Asian/Japanese 8 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 13 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 2 Home Style/Southern 5 Coffee/Tea House 2 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 6 Steakhouse 3 Cafés 13 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 2, 3 Barbecue 3, 6 European/Italian 2 Desserts/Bakery 4 Pizza 2, 3 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 European/Italian 14 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 8,11,12,13 Asian/Chinese 6 Bar & Grill 1

RESTAURANT

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12 Downhome Cafeteria 62 Cafeterias 2, 14 72 Asian/Japanese Dragon King’s Daughter Drake’s 69 Bar & Grill 3, 8 61 Home Style/Southern 13 Dre’Lynn’s Soul Food 2 Dunkin’ Donuts 80 Desserts/Bakery 56 Seafood 12 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 55 Cafés 1 Earth Friends Café 5 East of Chicago Pizza 63 Pizza 71 Asian/Chinese 12 Eastern House 2 76 Middle Eastern Eat A Pita Eddie Merlot’s 57 Steakhouse 1 71 Asian/Chinese 2 Eggroll Machine 2 54 Bistro/Contemporary Eggs Over Frankfort Eiderdown 75 European/German 13 51 Upscale Casual 1 Eight Up Drinkery 1 Einstein Brothers Bagels 65 Sandwich/Deli 78 Mexican 2 El Camino 78 Mexican 4, 6 El Caporal 5 El Mariachi 78 Mexican 6 78 Mexican El Marlin Seafood El Molcajete 78 Mexican 13 13 78 Mexican El Molcajete 2 78 Mexican El Mundo El Nopal 78 Mexican [19] 4 78 Mexican El Ranchero 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 13 El Rincon Cuban Restaurant 16 El Sombrero 78 Mexican 2 78 Mexican El Taco Luchador 78 Mexican 3, 5, 13 El Tarasco 12 El Tenampa Bar & Grill 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 6 78 Mexican El Torazo El Torito de Jalisco 78 Mexican 13 78 Mexican 5 El Toro Cantina & Grill 7 71 Asian/Chinese Emperor of China 71 Asian/Chinese 4 Empress of China The English Grill 48 Fine Dining 1 Equus 51 Upscale Casual 3 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 55 Cafés 1 Exchange Pub + Kitchen 54 Bistro/Contemporary 14 76 Middle Eastern 2 The Falafel House Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 67 Barbecue 6, 15 13 Famous Mike’s Steak & Lemonade 58 Casual Dining 13 63 Pizza Fat Daddy’s Pizza 5 63 Pizza Fat Jimmy’s 67 Barbecue 6 FDKY BBQ FeastBBQ 67 Barbecue 14 65 Sandwich/Deli 3 The Feed Bag Fiesta Time Amigos 78 Mexican 11 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 78 Mexican 8 1, 12 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 67 Barbecue 5 Firehouse Subs 65 Sandwich/Deli 71 Asian/Chinese 12 First Wok The Fish House 56 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 56 Seafood 3, 5 The Fishery Station 56 Seafood 11 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 58 Casual Dining 3, 8, 14 69 Bar & Grill 2 Flanagans Ale House 62 Home Style/Southern 1 Food 4 Ur Soul 62 Home Style/Southern 13 Forty Acres & A Mule 69 Bar & Grill 4 Four King’s Café 54 Bistro/Contemporary 13 Four Pegs Beer Lounge Four Sisters 74 Asian/Vietnamese 2 62 Home Style/Southern 12 Franco’s Restaurant Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 67 Barbecue 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 65 Sandwich/Deli 8 Frontier Diner 62 Home Style/Southern 12 The Fudgery 80 Desserts/Bakery 1 72 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Asian Bistro Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 72 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Funmi’s African Restaurant 70 African 4 Game 59 Casual Dining 2 Garage Bar 59 Casual Dining 1 51 Upscale Casual 2 Gary’s On Spring 75 European/German 7 Gasthaus 59 Casual Dining 1 Gatsby’s On Fourth 59 Casual Dining 1 Gavi’s Restaurant 80 Desserts/Bakery 8 Gelato Gilberto Genghis Grill 74 Asian/Mongolian 8 69 Bar & Grill 3 Gerstle’s Place Ghyslain 75 European/French 1, 8 80 Desserts/Bakery 6 Gigi’s Cupcakes 72 Asian/Japanese 5 Ginza Asian Bistro Golden Buddha 71 Asian/Chinese 13 62 Home Style/Southern [4] Golden Corral Golden Palace 71 Asian/Chinese 13 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall Good Ole’ Jessie’s 62 Home Style/Southern 12 Goose Creek Diner 59 Casual Dining 8 68 Microbreweries 1 Gordon Biersch Brewery Grady’s Burgers & Wings 59 Casual Dining 13 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Gralehaus Granville Inn 69 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 76 Middle Eastern 2 69 Bar & Grill 13 Great American Grill Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 71 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wall 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Great Wok Green Leaf Vegetarian 59 Casual Dining 13 59 Casual Dining 13 Grind Burger Kitchen Guaca Mole 78 Mexican 5 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 14 Habana Blues Tapas 62 Cafeterias 2 Hall’s Cafeteria Hammerheads 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 72 Asian/Japanese 10 Hanabi Japanese Happy China 71 Asian/Chinese 6 Happy Dragon 71 Asian/Chinese 6 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hard Rock Café Harley’s Hardwoodz BBQ 67 Barbecue 16 51 Upscale Casual 1 Harvest Havana Rumba 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 3,5 Havana Rumba & Tapas Bar 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 51 Upscale Casual 13 Hawksview Gallery Hay Chi Wa Waa 78 Mexican 5 72 Asian/Japanese 2 Heart & Soy www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014 45

RESTAURANT

Heine Brothers Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Hibachi Sushi Buffet Highland Coffee Co. Highland Morning Highlands Taproom Grill Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar Hill Street Fish Fry Hilltop Tavern Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holy Grale Home Run Burgers & Fries Homemade Pie Kitchen Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Honey Creme Donut Shop Honeybaked Café Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Howl at the Moon Hubba Hubba Subs Hunan Wok IHOP Indi’s Restaurant The International Mall The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Gumbo’s J. Harrods JJ Fish & Chicken Jack Binion’s Steakhouse Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jackknife Café Jade Palace Jasmin Bakery Jasmine Jason’s Deli Java Brewing Co. Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Jersey’s Café Jersey Mike’s Subs Jet’s Pizza Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy John’s Sub Shop Joe & Kathy’s Place Joe Huber Restaurant Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John O’Bryan’s Tavern Johnny Brusco’s Pizza Johnny V’s The Joy Luck JR’s Pub Jucy’s Smokehouse Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Coffeehouse Kailana Sushi Kansai Japanese Rest. Karem’s Kashmir Indian Kayrouz Café Kenna’s Korner Kern’s Korner Khalil’s King Wok Kingfish King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II Krispy Krunchy Chicken KT’s L & J Asian Cuisine La Bamba La Carreta La Coop: Bistro à Vins La Hacienda Guadalajara La Peche La Popular La Que La Riviera Maya La Rosita Taqueria La Sierra Las Gorditas Le Bossier Café Lee’s Korean Legend’s Lemongrass Café Lenny’s Sub Shop Lilly’s Ling Ling Little Caesars Pizza Little India Café Little Jerusalem Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Lone Wolf Sports Bar Longhorn Steakhouse Lonnie’s Taste Of Chicago Loop 22 Los Aztecas Lotsa Pasta Loui Loui’s Detroit Pizza Louis Le Francais Louis’s “The Ton” Louisville Pizza Co. Louisville Tea Co. LouVino

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79 81 71 79 55 69 72 56 69 69 80 54 59 81 62 63 81 65 71 69 59 62 65 71 59 62 76 75 63 51 55 77 51 56 48 49 55 54 71 81 71 65 80 57 69 65 63 67 65 59 62 56 77 59 69 63 63 71 69 67 71 80 72 72 59 76 55 63 59 69 71 56 62 72 74 62 51 71 78 78 75 78 55 78 74 78 78 78 78 62 74 59 74 66 49 71 63 76 77 71 57 78 69 57 66 54 78 66 63 75 69 64 80 54

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[12] Coffee/Tea House 5 Desserts/Bakery Asian/Chinese 11, 13 Coffee/Tea House 2 2 Cafés Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Japanese 1, 5 13 Seafood Bar & Grill 2 11 Bar & Grill Coffee/Tea House 14 Bistro/Contemporary 2 3, 5, 6, 13 Casual Dining Desserts [9] Home Style/Southern 6,3 7 Pizza Desserts/Bakery 14 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Bar & Grill Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 1 Entertainment Dining 3 Casual Dining Asian/Chinese 11 6, 15 Casual Dining Home Style/Southern [8] 1 European/Italian 2 European/Irish Pizza 13 3 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés Cajun/Creole 1,2,6,16 Upscale Casual 10 16 Seafood Fine Dining 14 Fine Dining 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Cafés 2 Asian/Chinese 5 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 5 3, 5 Sandwich/Deli 2 Coffee/Tea House 1 Steakhouse Bar & Grill 15 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Pizza 2, 3 Barbecue 13 Sandwich/Deli [11] 12 Casual Dining 14 Entertainment Dining Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6 Casual Dining 5 Bar & Grill 12 Pizza 8 Pizza 6 Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 14 Barbecue 5 Asian/Chinese 6 Coffee/Tea House 2 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 6, 15 Casual Dining 8 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Pizza 8 Casual Dining 2 Bar & Grill 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Home Style/Southern 13 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Upscale Casual 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Mexican 2 Mexican 13 European/French 1 Mexican 13 Cafés 2 Mexican 13 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Mexican 13 Mexican 5, 13, 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 11 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Korean 13 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Sandwich/Deli 4 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza [12] Indian 4 Middle Eastern 13 Asian/Chinese 5 Steakhouse 3, 6, 12, 15 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill 12 Steakhouse 6, 8, 13, 15 Sandwich/Deli 2, 13 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 1, 5, 10 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 6 European/French 14 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 6 Coffee/Tea House 5 Bistro/Contemporary 2

46 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

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1 Luigi’s 64 Pizza 15 64 Pizza Ma Zerellas Maa Sha Allah 70 African 4 59 Casual Dining 14 Magdalena’s 1 Main Eatery 66 Sandwich/Deli 74 Asian/Thai 16 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 54 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Majid’s St. Matthews 1 Maker’s Mark Lounge 51 Upscale Casual 78 Mexican 6, 13 Mango’s Bar & Grill 1 59 Casual Dining Manhattan Grill Manny & Merle 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 64 Pizza 14 Marco’s Pizza 1 54 Bistro/Contemporary Marketplace Restaurant Mark’s Feed Store 67 Barbecue 2, 5, 11, 12, 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 15 Marlyce’s Place 11 Marric’s Restaurant 62 Home Style/Southern 76 European/Italian 8 Martini Italian Bistro 72 Asian/Japanese 5 Masa Japanese 1 Masala Grill 77 Middle Eastern 16 54 Bistro/Contemporary Match Cigar Bar Mayan Café 78 Mexican 1 [9] 66 Sandwich/Deli McAlister’s Deli 3, 5 64 Pizza Mellow Mushroom The Melting Pot 51 Upscale Casual 6 3 55 Cafés Meridian Café 78 Mexican 4 Mexican Fiesta 3 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 73 Asian/Japanese 12 56 Seafood Mike Linnig’s 69 Bar & Grill 14 Mike’s Tavern 1 MilkWood 49 Fine Dining 5 59 Casual Dining Mimi’s Café Mimo’s Pizzeria 64 Pizza 14 77 Middle Eastern 13 Mirage Mediterranean Grill 8 56 Seafood Mitchell’s Fish Market 77 Southwest/TexMex 3,6,8,11,15 Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant 76 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 75 European/Irish 2, 3 Momma’s Mustard, Pickles & BBQ 67 Barbecue 3, 5 Momma’s Pizza 64 Pizza 15 59 Casual Dining 2 The Monkey Wrench More Shenanigan’s 75 European/Irish 4 1, 2 66 Sandwich/Deli Morris Deli & Catering 1 57 Steakhouse Morton’s of Chicago 5, 12, 13, 15 64 Pizza Mr. Gattis 73 Asian/Japanese 3 Mr. Lee’s Ichiban Japanese Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 73 Asian/Japanese 13 Mt. Fuji Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 60 Casual Dining 2 Muscle Monkey Café 66 Sandwich/Deli 6,8,14,15 6 Mussel & Burger Bar 54 Bistro/Contemporary 5 My Favorite Muffin 81 Desserts/Bakery 62 Entertainment Dining 13 My Old KY Dinner Train NamNam Café 74 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Nancy’s Bagel Box 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 66 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 52 Upscale Casual 5 60 Casual Dining 14 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 64 Pizza 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 60 Casual Dining 14 New Albany Roadhouse 71 Asian/Chinese 5 New China 69 Bar & Grill 5 New Direction Bar & Grill Noodles & Company 60 Casual Dining 6, 8 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 Nord’s Bakery North End Café 54 Bistro/Contemporary 2 O’Charley’s 60 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 62 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 75 European/Irish 2 49 Fine Dining 1 The Oakroom Oishii Sushi 73 Asian/Japanese 4 Old 502 Winery 54 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 64 Pizza 6, 8 Old Hickory Inn 69 Bar & Grill 13 64 Pizza 5 Old School NY Pizza 76 European/Italian 1 Old Spaghetti Factory 52 Upscale Casual 5 Old Stone Inn 67 Barbecue 11 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 69 Bar & Grill 8 O-Line Sports Grill The Olive Garden 76 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 54 Bistro/Contemporary 16 Olive Leaf Bistro Ollie’s Trolley 66 Sandwich/Deli 1 14 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 71 Asian/Chinese 55 Cafés 16 Orange Clover Kitchen Oriental House 71 Asian/Chinese 3 71 Asian/Chinese 13 Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s 64 Pizza 1, 2, 10 73 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Osaka Sushi Bar 57 Steakhouse 3,8,11,13,15 Outback Steakhouse Overtime Sports Bar 69 Bar & Grill 13 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 52 Upscale Casual 5 77 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 2 Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese 71 Asian/Chinese 10 71 Asian/Chinese 6, 15 Panda Express Panera Bread Co. 66 Sandwich/Deli [9] Papa John’s 64 Pizza [30] 64 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papa Murphy’s Pizza Papalino’s NY Pizzeria 64 Pizza 8 56 Seafood 6 Passtime Fish House 75 European/Irish 1 Patrick O’Shea’s Pat’s Steak House 57 Steakhouse 2 66 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Paul’s Fruit Market Pearl 74 Asian/Vietnamese 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 16 Pearl Street Treats 72 Asian/Chinese 5 Peking City Bistro Penn Station 66 Sandwich/Deli [17] 60 Casual Dining 1 Peppers Bar and Grill Perfetto Pizza 64 Pizza 6 Perkfection 80 Coffee/Tea House 16 76 European/Italian 1 Pesto’s Italian Petra Mediterranean 77 Middle Eastern 4 74 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Pho Binh Minh Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 78 Mexican 12 Pink Baron BBQ 67 Barbecue 16 77 Middle Eastern 5, 6 Pita Pit Pizza Donisi 64 Pizza 13 64 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza King

RESTAURANT

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Pizza Place Please & Thank You Pleasure Ridge Place Plehn’s Bakery Plump Peacock Bakery Ponderosa Steakhouse Porcini Potbelly Sandwich Shop Primo’s Delicatessen Prince Hookah Lounge Proof On Main Prospect Café Puerto Vallarta Pujols Mexican Restaurant Qdoba Mexican Grill Quad Café Queen of Sheba Queue Café Quick Wok Quill’s Coffee Quizno’s Subs Rafferty’s of Louisville Raising Cane’s Ramiro’s Cantina Ramsi’s Café Red Hot Roasters Red Robin Gourmet Burgers Red Sun Chinese Red’s Comfort Food Red Yeti Brewing Co. River City Drafthouse River City Winery River Road BBQ Riverside Café Riviera Maya Mexican Rivue Rob-A-Que Rocky’s Pizza & Panini Rocky’s Sub Pub Romano’s Macaroni Grill Roof Top Grill Roosters Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille Roots Rosie’s Pizza Rosticeria Luna Roux Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar Rubbin’ Butts BBQ Ruby Tuesday The Rudyard Kipling Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Rumplings Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse Ryan’s Steakhouse Rye SaE Café Saffron’s Safier Mediterranean Deli Saigon Café Saigon One Saint’s Sake Blue Japanese Bistro Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sal’s Pizza & Wings Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina Sam’s At The Montrose Sam’s Food & Spirits Sam’s Gyro Sam’s Hot Dog Stand Santa Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Schlotzsky’s Deli Scotty’s Ribs & More Scotty’s Village Market Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern Señor Iguana’s Sergio’s World Beers Seviche A Latin Restaurant Shack In The Back BBQ Shady Lane Café Shah’s Mongolian Grill Shalimar Indian Shane’s Rib Shack Shanghai Restaurant Shark’s Fish & Chicken Shawn’s Southern BBQ Shenanigan’s Irish Grille Shiraz Mediterranean Grill Shirley Mae’s Café Shogun Shoney’s Shoyu Asian Fusion Sichuan Garden Sicilian Pizza & Pasta Sidebar Silo Ethiopian Restaurant The Silver Dollar Simply Thai Sin Fronteras Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor Sister Bean’s Skyline Chili Smashburger Smokehouse BBQ Smoketown USA Smokey Bones BBQ Smokey’s Bean Snappy Tomato Sol Aztecas Spaghetti Shop Spinelli’s Pizzeria Sporting News Grill

64 80 64 81 55 57 76 66 66 77 52 55 78 78 78 60 70 56 72 80 66 60 60 78 54 80 60 72 66 68 70 54 67 56 79 49 67 64 64 76 77 60 70 73 64 79 77 67 67 60 60 57 73 57 57 52 66 77 77 74 74 70 73 73 74 64 77 60 60 77 60 79 73 66 67 66 77 79 70 49 67 66 74 76 68 72 57 68 75 77 62 73 60 74 72 64 54 70 54 74 79 64 80 60 60 68 68 68 80 64 79 76 64 70

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4 Pizza 2 Coffee/Tea House 12 Pizza Desserts/Bakery 3 5 Cafés 13 Steakhouse European/Italian 2 Sandwich/Deli 1, 8 14 Sandwich/Deli Middle Eastern 13 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 10 11, 14, 16 Mexican Mexican 6 Mexican [16] 16 Casual Dining 4 African Cafés 1 1 Asian/Chinese Coffee/Tea House 2, 13, 14 Sandwich/Deli 1,5,13,14,15 3, 8 Casual Dining 8 Casual Dining Mexican 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 1, 2 Coffee/Tea House Casual Dining 3, 8 Asian/Chinese 4 Sandwich/Deli 1 16 Microbreweries Bar & Grill 2 Bistro/Contemporary 4 7 Barbecue 16 Cafés Mexican 2 1 Fine Dining Barbecue 13 Pizza 4 Pizza 16 European/Italian 5 Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 1 5,12,13,15 Casual Dining Bar & Grill 8 2 Asian/Japanese Pizza 5 13 Mexican Cajun/Creole 2 13 Barbecue 15 Barbecue 6, 15 Casual Dining Casual Dining 1 5 Seafood Asian/Japanese 2 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11 Upscale Casual 1 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 11 Pizza 5 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,5 Casual Dining 15 Casual Dining 14 Middle Eastern 6 Casual Dining 2 Mexican 13 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sandwich/Deli 8 Barbecue 5 Sandwich/Deli 8 Cajun/Creole 5 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 2 Fine Dining 2 Barbecue 13 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Mongolian 6, 13 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 Seafood 13 Barbecue 14 European/Irish 2 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 5, 13 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 African 13 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Thai 3, 5 Mexican 15 Pizza 15 Coffee/Tea House 13 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Casual Dining 1, 5 Barbecue 11 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 6 Coffee/Tea House 13 Pizza 8 Mexican 1, 2, 11 European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 1, 2, 3, 8, 12 Bar & Grill 13

RESTAURANT

The Sports & Social Club Spread Buffet, The Spring St. Bar & Grill St. Charles Exchange Star Sushi Starbucks Coffee Starving Artist Café State Donuts Steak N Shake Stevens & Stevens Deli Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen Stoney River Strati Wild Stricker’s Café Sub Station II Sugar & Spice Donut Shop Sully’s Saloon Sunergos Coffee SuperChef’s Breakfast Sway Sweets Frog Sweet Peaches Sweet Stuff Bakery Sweet Surrender Sweetie Pie Soul Foods Sweets By Morgan Sweets & Such Bakery Taco Tico Tacqueria La Mexicana Taj Palace TanThai Restaurant Tavern On Fourth Taylor G’s Jamaican Jerk Tazza Mia TC’s Sandwich Shoppe Tea Station Chinese Bistro Teena’s Pizza Texas Roadhouse Texicans BBQ Pit TGI Friday’s Thai Café Thai Noodles Thai Siam Thai Taste That Place On Goss The Back Door The Café The Cheddar Box The Cheddar Box Too The Craft House The Cure Lounge The Kitchen The Lighthouse Tienda La Chapinlandia Tin Roof Toast On Market ToGo Sushi Tokyo Japanese Tom + Chee Tomo Tony Impellizzeri’s Troll Pub Under The Bridge Tucker’s Tumbleweed Tuscany Italian Restaurant Tut’s Mediterranean Twig & Leaf Restaurant Uncle Maddio’s Pizza Joint Uptown Café Varanese Verbana Café Vic’s Café Vietnam Kitchen Village Anchor Pub & Roost Ville Taqueria Vincenzo’s Vint Coffee Volare W.g. Grinders W.W. Cousin’s Wagner’s Pharmacy Wall Street Deli Ward 426 Warehouse Hookah Café Wasabiya Japanese Rest. Way Cool Café Webb’s Market Wick’s Pizza Wild Eggs Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion Wild Rita’s William’s Bakery Wiltshire On Market Wiltshire Pantry Bakery The Wing Zone Wingstop Winston’s Wok Express Wonton Express Yaching’s East West Cuisine Yafa Café Yang Kee Noodle Yellow Cactus Yen Ching You-Carryout-A Zäd Modern Mediterranean Zanzabar Za’s Pizza Zaxby’s Zen Garden Zoe’s Kitchen Zoup! Z’s Oyster Bar

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1 Bar & Grill Casual Dining 14 2 Bar & Grill 1 Upscale Casual Asian/Japanese 16 Coffee/Tea House [35] 5 Sandwich/Deli Desserts/Bakery 8 Casual Dining [6] 2 Sandwich/Deli 7 European/Italian Steakhouse 8 2 European/Italian 16 Cafés Sandwich/Deli 13 Desserts/Bakery 11 1 Bar & Grill Coffee/Tea House 1, 13 Cafés 3 1 Casual Dining Desserts/Bakery [4] Home Style/Southern 1 Desserts/Bakery 14 2 Desserts/Bakery Home Style/Southern 13 Desserts/Bakery 16 12 Desserts/Bakery Mexican 12 Mexican 13 Indian 8 14 Asian/Thai 1 Bar & Grill Caribbean/Cuban/Latin 1 Coffee/Tea House 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Asian/Chinese 8 13 Pizza 2, 12, 13, 15 Steakhouse 7 Barbecue 1 Casual Dining Asian/Thai 7 13 Asian/Thai 4 Asian/Thai 2 Asian/Thai 13 Casual Dining Bar & Grill 2 1 Cafés Cafés 3 Cafés 3 Bar & Grill 2 Bar & Grill 13 12 Home Style/Southern Bar & Grill 16 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill 3 Casual Dining 1, 14 Asian/Japanese 5 Asian/Japanese 7 Sandwich/Deli 2, 3, 13 Asian/Japanese 14 Pizza 14 Bar & Grill 1 Casual Dining 14 Southwest/Tex Mex [10] European/Italian 13 Middle Eastern 4 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Cafés 8 Bar & Grill 14 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Mexican 3 Fine Dining 1 Coffee/Tea House 2 European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 7 Sandwich/Deli 3, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Fine Dining 2 Middle Eastern 14 Asian/Japanese 2 Cafés 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza 2, 5, 8, 14 Cafés 1, 3, 5 Asian/Japanese 2 Mexican 1 Desserts/Bakery 15 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 13 Bar & Grill 6, 12 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 4 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 1 Asian/Chinese 5 Mexican 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 15 Middle Eastern 3 Bar & Grill 13 Pizza 2 Casual Dining [5] Asian/Vietnamese 2 Middle Eastern 1, 3, 8 Sandwich/Deli 1 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

p = Full Bar

Outdoor f = Dining e = Live Music

7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. To locate 211 Clover Lane you have to negotiate St. Matthews side streets and cross railroad tracks and look into the corner of a little cluster of upscale shops. When you do, you can enjoy drinks in a newly expanded lounge, and dine off seasonal menus from chef Allen Heintzman, who, along with owner Andrew Smith, keeps 211 Clover Lane among the town’s top tables. $$$$ Br L D pf 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. For nearly a decade Edward Lee has maintained his Old Louisville restaurant’s reputation as a dining destination. Now Nick Sullivan has taken over as executive chef as Lee, with his recent Food TV national exposure, has assumed the role of impresario. The monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate 610’s style at a lower price point. $$$$ D pf BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant and understated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments is overseen by chef Andrew Welenken, who has kept long-standing favorites like the crispy fish, but has extended his menu into new areas, such as the fried oysters Rockefeller, maple-bourbon glazed pork chop and country-fried quail. Rick Bartlett continues his long tenure at the piano. $$$ L D hpfe CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ L D hpf ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is now under control of executive chef Josh Bettis, who is introducing new menu ideas such as pressed watermelon tuna nicoise, monkfish over polenta and peanut butter mousse and lemon panna cotta for desserts. The chef’s table in the kitchen is still a great place for a special party. $$$ D p JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is 48 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

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h = Late Night

no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ D hp JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Inside its unprepossessing exterior is one of Louisville’s longestrunning top tables. Seating is tight; it is noisy; but the food is consistently excellent. Shawn Ward, its executive chef for 18 years, has left to direct the kitchen at what will become Ward 426 (for now, The Brewery). In his absence, veteran sous chef McClain Brown has taken the helm. Brown promised he’ll keep classic menu items that regulars love while looking to modernize the restaurant’s infrastructure a bit, and gradually introduce some new cooking techniques. $$$$ L D hpe LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution for more than a quarter-century, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ Br L D p MILKWOOD 316 W. Main St., 584-6455. Owner Edward Lee has made the downstairs space at Actors Theatre a dining destination even after curtain call and when the theater is dark. Executive chef Kevin Ashworth’s menu blends Asian and Southern influences and has received national attention. The sleek, clean updating of the space is both chic and welcoming. $$$ D p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Chef de cuisine Patrick Roney captains the kitchen at Seelbach’s AAA five-diamond awarded formal restaurant. His clever menu features a sophisticated and contemporary blend seafood, beef and pork served with local and seasonal ingredients. Insider tip: You won’t regret putting your wine choices in the hands of sommelier Julie DeFriend. $$$$ Br D pe

RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. The sleek black and white modern decor, slowly spinning to give a panorama of the city, brings to mind an old Fred Astaire movie. New chef Dustin Willard’s upscale menu adds another top hotel dining experience to the city. $$$ Br D hp SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers an eclectic range of Latin American dishes in addition to the namesake the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices. Continuing to get notice throughout the Southeast for his imaginative cooking, he is setting a standard of cool for the Bardstown Road eating scene. $$$$ D hpf VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ L D hpe WARD 426 426 Baxter Ave., 365-2505. Out with the sports bar and in with the upscale restaurant: The Brewery, a longtime watering hole has been gutted, re-styled by Bittners and overhauled to feature chef Shawn Ward’s lunch and dinner menus containing regional American fare with a Southern twist. Expect a “cool take” on shrimp and grits, veal chop, a country ham tasting platter — even a vegetarian menu. The restaurant’s transformation began in October and is scheduled for an early November completion. $$$$ L D hpf WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd. (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$ Br L D p Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000, 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. The successful upscale steak and oyster concept that has worked so well in the Hurstbourne suburbs is now also the theme at Z’s sleek downtown venue. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience will give visitors another center-city choice. $$$$ L D hp

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$$ D hpfe ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Twenty years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to pan-Asian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. Now in his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Rd. restaurant he has refocused the menu on small plates, still displaying the multi-ethnic Pacific cuisines of his Malaysian homeland. $$$ Br D

hpf

AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ Br L D p 7 BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ D hp

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BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. The monthly LobsterFest night is worth checking out. $$$ Br D pf BLU ITALIAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian cuisine in a handsomely configured dining room. From Tuscan grilled prawns to house-made ravioli to espresso-dusted pork chop and seafood risotto, diners are sure to find agreeable fare of BLU’s menu. $$$ B Br L D pe BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Romanruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and firstrate grilled meats. $$ Br L D hpf BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 456-1702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-4158, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the greenchile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ Br L D hpf 7 CENA 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 333-0376. Owner Fernando Martinez and executive chef Allan Rosenberg have re-conceived their elegant space below Mussel & Burger Bar as an upscale casual Italian restaurant. Antipasti, primi secondi, contornia and dolce are served in shareable portion sizes. Menu ideas include grilled baby octopus, bone marrow al forno, a salumi selection, gnocchi with fennel sausage and porchetta. $$$ D hp CHARR’D BOURBON KITCHEN & LOUNGE 1903 Embassy Square Blvd. (Marriott Louisville East), 4911184. The J’town Marriott Hotel’s restaurant is on the Urban Bourbon Trail, which explains menu divisions such as “10 Minute White Dog” lunch choices, and “Bootlegger Burger Bar.” The bar boasts over 75 offerings of Bourbon. $$$ Br L D hp THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd. (Mall St. Matthews), 897-3933. One of 175 outlets of the California-based chain, this popular restaurant maintains a large and diverse menu that entices and satisfies a wide range of diners. Food quality is above average for this kind restaurant chain, though its namesake cheesecakes are baked in California and North Carolina. $$$ Br L D hpf CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. This family-owned and operated, classier-than-theaverage-strip mall place has quietly turned out delicious menus for better than 25 years. The Frederick family serves an eclectic menu (blackened tenderloin, lump crab meat-encrusted sea bass, Andouille-stuffed chicken, garlic-basil chicken pizza), and dishes like Irish pork have won prizes at local charity contests. $$$ L D hp DECCA 812 E. Market St., 749-8128. Decca’s handsomely re-done 19th-century building, its serene garden, its classy basement bar and breezy secondfloor eating balcony are all fun. But chef Anne Pettry’s inventive, locally sourced menu combined with the restaurant’s wine program make it a classy place to dine. Live music in the garden in nice weather; in the bar when not. $$$$ D hpfe DOC CROW’S 127 W. Main St., 587-1626. Doc Crow’s solidly anchors the dining choices on Whiskey Row. 50 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

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h = Late Night

Oysters from both coasts, raw and fried, fried green tomatoes, pork rinds, shrimp and grits, all served in a handsome renovation of one of Main Street’s classic cast-iron front buildings. $$ L D hp

EIGHT UP ELEVATED DRINKERY AND KITCHEN 350 W. Chestnut St. (Hilton Garden Inn). The new hotel at the corner of Fourth and Chestnut boasts a glassed-in rooftop restaurant and bar, eight floors up, overlooking Theater Square and other urban vistas. Local restaurant veteran Len Stevens will manage the three areas of the elegant space — upscale casual dining room, bar with a separate kitchen and menu, and the expansive outdoor patio. Chef Russell Kook has two wood-fired ovens, and will offer amusing small plates to nibble while sipping, as well as full breakfasts and dinners. $$$ B D hpf EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. The appeal of chefowner Dean Corbett’s first restaurant continues nearly three decades after its opening. The casual atmosphere and menu focus on clever re-imaginings of comfort foods make the St. Matthews spot an enduring and delightful dining choice. $$$ D p GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Chef Harold Baker has been at the helm of this Irish Hill upscale casual spot since the start. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant Napoleon. $$$ D phpfe HARVEST 624 E. Market St., 384-9090. Agricultural entrepreneur Ivor Chodkowski’s venture into the restaurant world has succeeded beyond his initial imaginings. Chef Coby Ming’s seasonal menus, intensely focused on sourcing ingredients within a 100-mile radius, increases diners’ awareness of how much local food producers can do. Dishes such as smoked goat cheese ravioli and buttermilk fried chicken with arugula hoecake show what they have in mind. $$$ Br L D hpf HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shepherdsville KY, (502) 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$ Br L D e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ D hp J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. For 20 years people have driven to Prospect for the wellprepared, old-school menu offerings at J. Harrod’s. Served with aplomb in a quiet, comfortable dining room, the substantial menu includes grilled steaks and chops, pasta, seafood, fried green tomatoes and chicken livers with gravy. $$$ D p KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. This allAmerican bistro and bar continues to pack in appreciative customers. Young professionals find the bar scene congenial, the food comforting, the ambience friendly. A popular place for Sunday brunch. $$ Br L D hpf 7 MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$$ L D hpf MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ D hp NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 423-5822. One of the original tenants in the steadily growing Westport Road restaurant and retail complex, Napa River Grill continues its West Coast wine country and Pacific Rim fusion-focused menu. Look for dishes such as tempura chicken salad, ahi tuna nachos, pad Thai, togarashi-blackened sea bass and pan-roasted chicken over dried tomato polenta. $$$ L D hpf 7 OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ Br L D pfe P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$$ L D hpf PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St. (21c Hotel), 2176360. Executive chef Levon Wallace has kept the bison burger and the charred octopus, favorites from Proof’s start, even as he has put his own stamp on the menu, with dishes such as country ham falafel, hog chop from the restaurant’s own Woodland Farm, and black bass. The bar remains one of the hippest in town.$$$ Br L D hpf RYE 900 E. Market St., 749-6200. New York hip meets Kentucky farm produce and meats, and the result is a daily menu focused on what is freshest. Every dish is created with unpretentious flair and served in a sleek — if noisy — East Market Street ambience. Chef Tyler Morris’s house-made charcuterie program is exceptional. $$ L D hpf ST. CHARLES EXCHANGE 113 S. Seventh St., 618-1917. The elegantly handsome renovation of a one-time hotel is a fine place to sip crafted cocktails at the long wood bar while munching on the fancy deviled eggs. Stop in at lunch for Elvis on horseback (dates stuffed with peanut butter and wrapped in bacon), fried oysters, or interesting sandwiches and hearty lunch plates. Dinner selections include soup au pistou, scallops and arancini and red quinoa gnocchi. $$$$ D hp SWAY 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. The handsome dining room on the entry level of the hotel has a bar that opens to Fourth street in good weather, and a menu based on the “Southern Way,” from whence comes the name Sway. The fried chicken quickly became a signature dish, and their version of shrimp and grits has won praise. $$$ B L D hpf UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. The Uptown has been an excellent spot for lunch and bistro-style dinners for so long that people seem to take it for granted. Those in the know find it an excellent value, for its Highlands location and sophisticated ambience, as well as the eclectic modern menu that includes seasonal small plate selections by long-time chef Matt Weber. $$$ L D hpf VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ D hpfe VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. The finely crafted small plates menu changes weekly to show-

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case the best seasonal ingredients. Start with the weekly charcuterie board or cheese plate, followed by a seasonal flatbread or salad, and perhaps a pasta dish such as goat cheese and lemon ravioli in pink peppercorn butter sauce. Open Thur.-Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$ D pf YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ L D hp

ANOOSH BISTRO 4863 Brownsboro Ctr., 690-6585. Anoosh Shariat is back in town, taking over the Henry’s Place space at Brownsboro Ctr. Early word is the venerable chef continues to provide excellent food from an eclectic menu including pan-seared ruby trout, veal de peto, grilled romaine salad, duck bruschetta, Danish scampi and his own version of a Henry’s Place’s favorite, cioppino. $$ L D p ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ B L D hp BISTRO 1860 WINE BAR 1765 Mellwood Ave., 6181745. Chef Michael Crouch’s concept of offering most dishes at three sizes and/or price ranges — petite for tasting, appetizer and small entrée — allows diners to explore the menu at a reasonable cost. The homey old Butchertown building is comfy and chic. During fair weather, dine in the shady garden, or ask to be seated in the Camel Lounge upstairs. $$$ D hpf BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Its central location across the street from the Convention Center and a short stroll from the Yum! Center makes this stylish casual bistro a good choice for food and drink before or after an event. You can enjoy chef James Lucas’s classic modern menu in the noisy, hospitable bar, or in the quieter dining room off to the side. $$$ L D pf BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, and a great bar, with a very comprehensive Bourbon list. Chef Jeff ”The Dude” Bridges has been reinvigorating this Crescent Hill favorite’s menu to match the excellence of its libations. $$$ D pf BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ D hpe CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. Critical raves and packed-in crowds at both locations testify to the popularity of Owner-Chef Clay Wallace’s international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ Br L D

CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ B L D fe DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Owner Anderson Grissom has made old-timers almost forget the old Delta Restaurant, whose location he took several years ago. Offering breakfast, lunch and dinner in the comfortable, brick-walled

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space, you can get your day going with eggs or omelets or bread pudding French toast. Lunch on salads, sandwiches or burgers or choose a dinner entrée (meatloaf, say, or chicken and waffles) any time of the day or night. $ B Br L D pf

Eric Morris in the kitchen, serving an eclectic menu, including rotisserie chicken and duck, braised short rib spring rolls, rosemary pesto pasta with grilled prawns and wild mushroom polenta. Along with a full bar. Much fun. $$ L D p

DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ Br L D hpf

LOUVINO 1606 Bardstown Rd., 365-1921. Travis Rockwell, longtime executive chef at Equus/Jack’s Lounge, has crafted the small plates menu offered at this immediately popular Highlands wine bar. Look for duck fat frites, loaded baked potato tots, shrimp and grit cakes with spicy tomato jam, hot brown mac and fried chicken tacos. $$ Br D pfe

EGGS OVER FRANKFORT 2712 Frankfort Ave., 7094452. Husband and wife team Jackson and Cortney Nave used a lot of recycled materials in changing what was the Fat Jimmy’s Pizza in Crescent Hill into a “very traditional” breakfast spot. Its menu includes omelets, eggs Benedict, waffles and oatmeal, as well as salads and sandwiches for lunch. $ B EXCHANGE PUB + KITCHEN 118 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 948-6501. Owner Ian Hall has made his gastropub in a sumptuously renovated historic building a fun place to sit and sample the eclectic bistro-style menu. Try the Korean BBQ or jalapeño fritters, steak frites or cider-glazed chicken. Wash things down with something from its substantial beer, wine and cocktails list that even includes house-made ginger ale. $$ L D hpfe FOUR PEGS BEER LOUNGE 1053 Goss Ave., 634-1447. Four Pegs has settled in nicely to the Germantown scene. Twelve craft beers on tap and a 30 bottle beer list brings in the fans, who also appreciate the award-winning veggie burger and other well-priced pub grub such as a chicken and waffle sandwich and an estimable burger with bacon-fried green tomatoes and beer sauce. $ D h f GRALEHAUS 1001 Baxter Ave., 454-7075. In the house behind the Holy Grale’s beer garden is Gralehouse, a café and deli. Its breakfast and lunch menu includes biscuit and duck gravy, an openface short rib sandwich, crepes, and a coffee bar, with house-made sodas, shrubs and kombucha. Also beers on tap and in the cooler. $$ B Br L f HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. One of the more unusual restaurant spaces in town, Hammerheads is also one of the hippest. Adam Burress and Chase Murcerino, who share owner and chef duties, fire up their BBQ smoker streetside, and fans far and wide flock to the semibasement space on the edge of Germantown to partake of pulled pork and beef brisket, pork and lamb ribs, roasted duck sandwiches, pork belly BLTs and soft shell crab tacos. $ D h HARD ROCK CAFÉ 424 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no com plaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ L D hpfe HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd., 459-9939. There are a lot of places to quaff craft beers in town, but Holy Grale’s frequently changing draft selection is among the most esoteric. Couple that with the seasonally adapted menu of chef Joshua Lehman and the oddity of being housed in a renovated church (the upstairs bar is aptly named “The Choir Loft”) and you have a unique dining and drinking experience. $ L D he JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ D pf LOOP 22 2222 Dundee Rd., 882-3279. This is the third venture from the guys at Hammerheads and Game. 54 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. In the four years at his classy Chenoweth Square location long-time restaurant entrepreneur Majid Ghavami has moved his emphasis to continental cuisine, offering classic dishes from different parts of Europe, with the backbone of the menu focused on Mediterranean cuisine. Look for well-prepared standards like duck with orange sauce, and, of course, Majid’s signature rack of lamb. In the sophisticated lounge, choose from a lively small plates menu while listening to jazz standards most every night. $$$ Br D pfe 7 MANNY & MERLE 122 W. Main St., 290-8888. Tony Palombino’s latest addition to his eclectic local empire serves up contemporary Mexican street food (Mod Mex) and a funky bar menu that highlights an impressive collection of tequilas and Bourbons. A major C&W music venue, with live acts most nights of the week, featuring Nashville bands as well as local talent tending to the rawer, honkytonk end of the country spectrum. $ L D hpe 7 MARKETPLACE RESTAURANT AT THEATER SQUARE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Going to the opera, a concert at the Palace or a show at the Mercury Ballroom? Chow down first at Marketplace, right in the middle of the now-hopping Theater Square. The elegant decor, whether at the circular bar, in the serene dining room, or any of the three outdoor spaces will get you in the mood, and Chef Dallas McGarity’s seasonal Italian influenced southern cuisine (panzanella salad, ricotta gnocchi, shrimp and grits, hot sauce fried chicken) will get you to the curtain well fed indeed. $$ L D hpf MATCH CIGAR BAR 207 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 725-7475. This classy cigar and Bourbon lounge specializes in elegant cocktails, premium cigars and offers a small menu including Bourbonmarinated steak, grilled chicken, burgers and cheeses. $$ D p MUSSEL & BURGER BAR 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 384-4834. Guaca Mole’s Fernando Martinez and his family stretch their ambitions and imaginations with an affordable “American bistro concept” featuring mussels with six different sauces, and 12 clever twists on burgers. Located in a strip mall just beyond the Hurstbourne Lane -Taylorsville Road intersection, it is worth seeking out, both for the food and for the comfy bistro atmosphere created in the cavernous space tricked out by former owners. L D hpe NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770, 2116 Bardstown Rd., 690-4161. Both locations of this long-time favorite offer hearty and unusual breakfasts, satisfying lunches and dinners. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine. $$ B Br L D hpfe OLD 502 WINERY 120 S. Tenth St., 540-5650. The wine here is made on site from grapes grown primarily in central Kentucky. The tasting room serves locally made Kentucky Proud snack food to enhance the wine, so stop in at lunch or weekends and sample their wares. A recent partnership formed with Falls City ensures its brews are on tap here, and a large event space for parties and receptions is available for rental. $$ L D hpe

OLIVE LEAF BISTRO 130 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 913-1252. Walk over the Big Four bridge for a meal that draws on the rich food traditions of countries ringing the Mediterranean. Olive Leaf Bistro serves everything from tagines to chicken Forestiere, oysters Rockefeller to eggplant Napoleon, and Greek salad to paella. $$$ L D

hpf RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu, with Cuban, Jamaican, Greek and Middle Eastern dishes. Moderate prices, a weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ L D hpf 7 RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 945-9463. Ten of owners Gary and Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2011 Indy International Wine Competition. Their honest, straightforward wines and Italian-inspired menu, featuring brink-oven pizzas, draw appreciative crowds. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ Br L D e SIDEBAR AT WHISKEY ROW 129 N. Second St., 384-1600. On the west side of Whiskey Row, above Troll Pub under the Bridge, Sidebar focuses on burgers, Bourbon and beer, a potentially boffo combo for those going to or coming from the Yum! Center across the street. The emphasis is on craft cocktails served alongside a short but bold selection of sandwiches, appetizers and desserts. $$ L D hpe THE SILVER DOLLAR 1761 Frankfort Ave., 259-9540. The old firehouse in Clifton is now a honky tonk bar and restaurant, the music (all on vinyl) focused on the “Bakersfield sound” — a fusion of Mexicali and American roots music. The southern country-style menu with sophisticated nuances has been an immediate hit. Choose from more than 80 Kentucky Bourbons, ryes, tequila and mescal, but no “foreign whiskey” like Scotch. $$ Br L D hpf VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old train station is this two-level Euro-village inspired concept. On the upper level, a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs at The Sea Hag the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food-style menu is served lunch and dinner with weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with more than 50 craft and import choices accompany 55 Bourbons to boot. $$$ Br L D hpf

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ L THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. Upscale Anchorage has an eminently suitable place for breakfast, lunch and brunch — as well as a takeout bakery offering quiches, scones, pies, and cookies. For breakfast try oatmeal or toast and jam; for lunch, a soup, salad or sandwich, all made with local seasonal ingredients. $ B Br L D f AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ B L D hp ATLANTIC NO. 5 605 W. Main St., 883-3398. Michael Trager-Kusman, owner of Rye, was inspired by the name of long-ago iron workers’ lunch boxes when he named his new West Main Street place, a mashup of a deli and a bistro. The menu plays off what was offered by their favorite New York places: sandwiches, salads, rotisserie chicken, smoked fish, pork, lamb, house-made charcuterie and bagels at breakfast. $ B Br L pfe

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Tables are always at a premium at this popular Crescent Hill breakfast and lunch spot. And its artisanal bakery continues to produce hearty European-style breads that have set a gold standard on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. $$ B L f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3819 Bardstown Rd., 459-2320. This little lunch spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel has a daily hot table buffet line plus a menu of soups, salads and sandwiches. On Sundays it offers a brunch buffet with a choice of breakfast and luncheon dishes. $ Br L BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this lunch spot offers standard American café fare. $ L CAFÉ AT MAIN STREET 10317 Watterson Trl., 2675111. This bright, lively lunch place moved into the city from Bullitt County trailing loyalists and drawing new fans. A typical day of specials might include tomato cheddar or butterbean soup, asparagus and chicken quiche, warm brie spinach salad and a selection of house-made pies and cakes. $ B Br L CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ B L CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishop Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ B L CAFÉ ON MEIGS 425 Meigs Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8515. The menu at this downtown J’ville lunch spot emphasizes fresh local ingredients and the avoidance of preservatives and processed ingredients. Although the usual suspects are there — chicken salad, roast beef sandwiches with Swiss cheese and red onion, Benedictine, grilled cheese, Cobb salad — all are done with integrity. $ L

the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ L pf

Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ L D f

EARTH FRIENDS CAFÉ AND COFFEE BAR 829 E. Market St., 749-8911, 221 S. 4th St., 290-2146. A second location downtown in the corner of the Convention Center recently opened. The emphasis at both locations is on vegetarian and vegan sandwiches, soups and salads, with a small “omnivore” selection. $ B Br L

LA PECHE GOURMET TO GO AND CAFÉ 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Kathy Cary’s return to her roots with this popular gourmet take-out counter, reinstalled in the corner of her restaurant, Lilly’s, features “tried and true” dishes like grilled chicken pasta, burgers, vegetarian sandwiches, chicken salad, “lots of great produce, affordable cuts of meat” and a dessert case that always includes strawberry pie. $$ B L D

ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960. This popular bakery attracts crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ B L HIGHLAND MORNING 1416 Bardstown Rd., 3653900. You can order breakfast anytime at this Highlands space, with an eclectic menu that also encompasses brunch, burgers, soul food, Southern dishes and vegetarian fare as well. $ B L D h J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $$ B L pf JACKKNIFE CAFÉ 1201 Story Ave., 883-3228. Cellar Door Chocolates maven Erika Chavez-Graciano’s venture into the restaurant world is this stylish brunch (late breakfast — they open at 10 a.m.) and lunch café inside the trendy Butchertown Market building. On the menu: breakfast biscuits with cheese and ham, yogurt and granola, salads, soups and sandwiches like grilled mortadella with cheddar and mustard, benedictine and smoked salmon and Brie with pears and spinach. $$ B L p KAYROUZ CAFÉ 3801 Willis Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad,

MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. Kristin Fults, former partner in Bluegrass Burgers, took over the operation of this cozy breakfast and lunch spot in March. The menu’s current balance of hearty vegetarian and meat-friendly options will remain, but the facilities are getting some modern touches. There’s a new spacious outdoor patio and the main bathroom was recently overhauled. Breakfast is served all day and Sunday breakfast is coming by June. $ B L f ORANGE CLOVER KITCHEN & MORE 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-1005. Find quick breakfast and lunch items here, such as the Orange Clover muffin: poppy seed and blood orange flavors with a blood orange drizzle, as well as a cupcake version with cranberries. Two soup specials offered every day out of a recipe rotation of 75 possibilities won’t result in many repeats. $ B L PLUMP PEACOCK BAKERY AND CAFÉ 11601 Main St., Middletown 681-3814. After selling her bakery items at farmers markets around town, owner Liz Wingfield has settled into Middletown. After shopping Middletown’s cute shops, stop in for sandwiches, high tea and a full range of bakery items. $ B L PROSPECT CAFÉ 9550 US Hwy. 42, 708-2151. Conveniently located at the intersection of River Rd. and Hwy. 42, stop in for hot sandwiches (Cuban,

CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $ L D f CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ L CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $$ L D CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old-fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ B L f CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ B Br L f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 637-1111. Lunch served year-round in

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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Reuben, grilled Italian, bourbon BBQ) or cold deli stuff — club sandwich, egg, tuna or chicken salad, or soups like chicken and dumplings. Chess bars and banana pudding too. $ L QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ B L f

THE CHEDDAR BOX TOO 109 Chenoweth Ln., 896-1133. Cheddar Box owner Nancy Tarrant has extended her presence with a café just across the parking lot. Look for the same tasty salads, soups and desserts that have made her take-away business so popular. $ B L

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ 700 W. Riverside Dr. (Sheraton Hotel), Jeffersonville IN, 284-6711. The breakfast room and bar of the Sheraton Riverside. Breakfast served until 10:30 a.m. Unwind at the bar at night. $$ B pf

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 425-0020. This Norton Commons eatery is open early for breakfast and serves hearty lunches till midafternoon, but you can order breakfast or lunch at any of those hours. $$ B L f

STRICKER’S CAFÉ 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 218-9882. Family style restaurant serving hearty soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, melts and breakfast too, in suburban Jeffersonville. $ B L 7

WAYCOOL CAFÉ 120 W. Broadway, 582-2241. Wayside Christian Mission trains people here in its community re-entry program in restaurant service and management. Breakfasts for under $5, a lunch buffet: is $8 for unlimited trips. A dinner menu too. It’s a do-gooder place that serves good food. $ L D

SUPERCHEF’S BREAKFAST AND LUNCH 307 Wallace Ave., 896-8008. Darnell “Superchef” Ferguson, of the pop-up breakfast concept, has taken over and expanded the space at the rear of The Ruby Slipper, and now serves lunch too. Chocolate mousse pancakes? Roasted red pepper grits cakes? Blueberry pancakes with marscapone? He’s got it covered. $ B L THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. You can see the traffic on East Broadway from The Café’s serene walled patio. Choose from an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. Or eat inside and be amused at the yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere, reminiscent of its former location in an antique mall. $ B Br L f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 8932324. For more than 25 years this St. Matthews tradition has delighted ladies who lunch, hungry students who munch, and just about everyone else with their sandwiches, pasta salads and tasty desserts. It caters parties with almost 50 choices of appetizers, party sandwiches, dips, cheese rings and crostini. $ L f

WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 6183449, 121 S. Floyd St., 690-5925. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing mini-chain’s fourth outlet. $ B Br L p WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 Caterer/restaurateur Susan Hershberg adds a bakery and café operation to her local empire. Baker Diana Rushing makes artisanal breads, scones and croissants, sandwiches and paninis, side salads and lots more. $ B L YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ L D

seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ D hp CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. And now open until 8 p.m. most nights. $ L D EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ L D f THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. And on weekends the space morphs into Café Beignet, serving hearty breakfasts and New Orleans-style beignets. $ Br L D f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ L D f FISHERY STATION 5610 Outer Loop, 968-8363. $$ LD

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive

HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to find. Its oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ L D f J J FISH & CHICKEN 1701 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2523. This Jeffersonville restaurant offers up fried perch and catfish, shrimp and oysters, chicken dinners, Philly cheese steaks and gyros. Italian beef sandwiches too, and the usual sides, nicely done. $ L D h7 JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ L D hpf KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ L D hpfe 7 MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ L D f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ L D hpf PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ L D fe

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RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucketof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ L D hpf SHARK’S FISH & CHICKEN 2001 S. Seventh St., 6372999. Several types of crunchy-breaded fried fish — white fish, shrimp, catfish, salmon — to choose from, as well as wings and side dishes like fried mushrooms and fried okra. Finish with appealing desserts such as chocolate cake, pineapple upside down cake or banana pudding. $ L D h

BRAZEIROS CHURRASCARIA 450 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 2908220. This Knoxvillebased company has opened its first satellite location downtown. A churrascaria works like this: You choose drinks, visit the salad bar and await visits from “gaucho chefs” who bring yard-long skewers of grilled meats (beef, lamb, sausage) to your table for slicing — as much as you wish — along with side dishes. $$$$ L D pf CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 590-2298, 6325 River Rd., 3847466. Buck’s owner Curtis Rader also operates these two places, where the kitchens cook steaks and sides in cast iron pans at moderate prices.The ambience of all his places is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ D hpf CATTLEMAN’S ROADHOUSE 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-7623, 139 Historical Trail, 543-3574. These local outlets of the small regional chain offer mid-priced beef choices and starters such as fried pickle chips and jalapeño poppers, grilled chicken, salmon, and plenty of sandwiches. $$$ L D hp DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ D hp 7 EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 584-3266. The sumptuous renovation of the space at the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali has resulted in one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. The menu focuses on high end steaks, well-prepared seafood and seasonal specials. $$$$ L D hpe JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ D hpe LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9789, 1540 Alliant Ave., 266-6009. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ L D hp LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5800, 4813 Outer Loop, 969-9790. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ L D hp MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and

masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ D hp OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ D hp PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets. Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. $$$$ D pf PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ L D RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ D hpe RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features more than 150 items. $$ L D STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ D hp TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy., 448-0705, 6460 Dutchmans Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ L D hp

A NICE RESTAURANT 3129 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ B L APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ L D hp ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ L D hp BARRY’S CHEESESTEAKS & MORE 7502 Preston Hwy., 883-2874. Once you’ve had ‘em in Philly, you want them everywhere you go, apparently. Barry’s

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version has been getting raves from self-anointed cheesesteak mavens, who approve of his meat, bread and the cheese sauce choices. The “more” includes burgers, wings and fries. $ L D BIG FOUR BURGERS + BEER 134 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4967. The name reflects its location in the shadows of the Big Four pedestrian bridge linking Louisville and Jeff. Diners can choose from a selection of gourmet burgers and 21 beer taps. Pop in downstairs for a fast, casual lunch or trundle upstairs for full-service seating and a view of the river. $$ L D hpfe B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd.(Oxmoor Mall), 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Mall. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ L D hp 7 BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln. (Crown Plaza Hotel), 367-2251. $$$ L D hp BLUEGRASS BURGERS 3334 Frankfort Ave., 6146567. Four women restaurateurs have partnered to offer a gourmet burger concept. Choose your burger — grass-fed Kentucky beef or bison, tuna or veggie (or grilled chicken, cheese steak or franks) — and then head for the topping bar. $ L D f BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. Brickhouse, a Houston-based chain, has upgraded its image with an increased focus on food. Serving brunch, lunch and dinner, with a half-dozen local beers on tap, and an unusual menu of beer cocktails. $$ L D hpf BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of allAmerican fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. $$ L D hpf BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ L D h f 7 CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ L D hp CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ Br L D pfe CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $ L D hp CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville IN, 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ B Br L D pe CHARLIE NOBEL’S EATERY + DRAUGHT HOUSE 7815 Old Ind. 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-5212. Owner Matt McMahan, who also runs Big Four Burgers + More described his new restaurant as a “Margaritaville meets Cheeseburger in Paradise concept.” Traditional American bar fare, seafood 58 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

dishes and 30 beers on tap served in an atmosphere that lays on the fun. $$ L D hp CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ L D hpf CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 3018181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ L D hp 7 CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ L D CHUCK’S CAFÉ 2784 Meijer Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 280-9160. A bright and cheerful strip mall eatery that focuses primarily on breakfast and lunch, but serves weekend brunch until 2:30 p.m. $ B L COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165. The restored 137-year-old building has gone through some recent renovations, including a makeover on reality TV. The result is a remodeled secluded patio, revamped dining room and an eclectic menu that plays off standards in a fun way: chicken thigh sliders, a Hot Brown with a Brie mornay and pepper jam, panzanella salad and a whole crispy catfish with Thai chili sauce. $$$ L D pf CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001, 1555 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-0810. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain popular. $ L Df CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Whether you drop in at the downtown location across from the Palace, or scoot out to the Harrod’s Creek outlet, you will find fine fish sandwiches and pub grub, and absorb some of the nostalgia associated with this longtime favorite. $ Br L D hpf DARKSTAR ON THE CREEK 6313 River Rd., 2281991. The familiar Crescent Hill neighborhood dive bar had to move to River Rd. when BBC bought its building. At its new site, city regulars can mingle with Prospect residents, river rats and parched kayakers docking out back on Harrod’s Creek. Look for an expanded bar food menu, brown bag lunches to go and late-night food service. $ L D hpfe DECKERS GRILLED SANDWICHES 2350 Greene Way, 491-3114. A burgeoning chain launched by White Castle sells hot soups, pressed sandwiches (the four cheese and bacon Decker sounds great) and desserts, as well as salads at affordable prices. No “sliders” here, but comparable prices. $ L D h FAMOUS MIKE’S STEAK & LEMONADE 3052 Wilson Ave., 618-0102. At first a curious culinary combination — steak and lemonade — but this little nearWest End place is a gem offering an eclectic range of quick comfort foods: chicken gizzard baskets, pizza rolls, cheese steaks, burgers and subs. $ L D h FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany IN, 944-9958, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702, 4226 Shelbyville Rd. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshly-grilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’roll sensibility. $ L D

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GAME 2295 Lexington Rd., 618-1772. Are you dying for a nice burger made from ground antelope? Or maybe wild boar? How about a juicy lamb burger? The guys behind Hammerhead’s have those covered, and more. Build your own with bun choices ranging from brioche to pretzel to Kaiser roll. Toppings include smoked truffle mayo, cranberry-jalapeño jam, and pesto — you get the idea. $$ D f GARAGE BAR 700 E. Market St., 749-7100. Housed in a former service station in NuLu, Garage Bar serves up draft and bottled craft beers, Bourbons, seasonal cocktails and wine, pizzas from a woodfired brick oven and Southern specialties, with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. The ham flight is not to be missed. $$$ D hpf GATSBY’S ON FOURTH 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3200. The casual dining space on the first floor of the Seelbach has been renovated and renamed to reflect its connection of the hotel to F. Scott Fitzgerald, and re-conceived to be a full restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Dinner and lunch menus serve soups, salads, sandwiches and a few entrées, such as sautéed trout with pickled fennel, pesto-crusted chicken, and skirt steak with celery root puree. $$ B L D hp

Valley Station locals. The menu supplies expected standards like fried chicken, biscuits and gravy, but contemporary offerings like vegetable panini and pork tenderloin sandwich with pesto mayo are available, too. $ B L D JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ L D hpfe KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $$ L D h KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern, a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978, offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and soups. The hamburgers, though, might be the best unpretentious burgers in town: freshly ground daily, always cooked perfectly, and served on a toasted bun. $ L D pf

LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well-stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ L D hpe MAGDALENA’S 1108 Copperfield Dr., Georgetown IN, 501-5100. Longtime Corydon favorite Magdalena’s has moved to Georgetown, but it still offers the same savory pasta, seafood and well-crafted comfort foods regulars have enjoyed for years. $$ L D p MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ B L MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where Farmer Bob is folksy and country. This East End outlet has developed a following beyond those familiar with it from other locations. $$ B Br L D hpf THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. The music program here is eclectic and nonjudgmental, and you could say the same for the menu. The vibe is “contemporary hillbilly” — butter beans and fried chicken and burgoo containing rabbit

GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ B L GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ B Br L D 7 GRADY’S BURGERS AND WINGS 3825 Taylor Blvd., 361-1106. The name says most of what you need to know. Ten flavors of wings, breaded, fried and sauced. The hot wings and the honey BBQ are the biggest sellers. Deli sandwiches and gyros too. $ L D f GREEN LEAF NATURAL VEGETARIAN BISTRO 309 W. Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. Green Leaf serves up vegetarian fare in the new town center of University of Louisville. The menu has a pan-Asian focus, with noodles and fried rice and stir fries, as well as smoothies and bubble tea. $ L D GRIND BURGER KITCHEN 3311 Preston Hwy., 8517333. Grind Burger Truck owners Liz and Jesse Huot have settled into brick-and-mortar restaurant, though the truck is still rolling to local events. In addition to their signature burgers, the Huots have sausages, salads and some great sides such as kim chi-braised fingerlings. $$ L f HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403, 303 W. Cardinal Blvd., 708-1818. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ L D f 7 HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ L D hpfe INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. IHOP fans can choose to go out to the East End or across the river to satisfy their jones for the national chain’s inimitable food. $ B L D h JOE & KATHY’S PLACE 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9355323. This family-run, home-cooking-from-scratch place has developed a loyal following among the

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and mutton. The Sunday bluegrass music brunch is rightly popular. $ L D hpfe

hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$ D

MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ L D hpf

QUAD CAFÉ 103 Quartermaster Ctr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823. Bistro dining in the always-changing Quadrangle Station in Jeffersonville. Expect a broad lineup of gourmet burgers, flat bread pizzas, an oyster bar on Friday and Saturday nights, daily lunch specials and a full bar. And now, in the adjoining space, Southern Indiana’s first J. Gumbo’s outlet as well. $ L Dpf7

NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere, has expanded their craft beer selection. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily. Coffee and desserts are always made fresh. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. $$ Br L D p NEW ALBANY ROADHOUSE 1702 Graybrook Rd., New Albany IN, 981-7777. $$ L D hp NOODLES & COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 632-0102, 4300 Summit Plaza Dr. The first of the Broomfield, Colo.-based fast-casual chain’s proposed nine Louisville-area locations is open on Hurstbourne, with the second at The Paddock due in late November. Choose your noodles — Asian style (pad Thai, Bangkok curry, etc.), pastas (Tuscan Fresca, Penne Rossa and more) — or select from a lineup of savory sandwiches and salads including the BBQ Pork and Chinese Chicken Chop Salad. $ L D f O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ Br L D hp PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. This casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for

RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ L D hpf RAISING CANE’S 10490 Westport Rd., 425-4040. A national chain with a single core product — chicken fingers. This replacement for the old Twister’s Custard brings simple and straightforward fried chicken finger combos and sandwiches with slaw and fries on the side. $ L D f RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. This Seattle-based chain serves up its well regarded “gourmet burgers” and trimmings in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ L D hpf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990. With a wide footprint in Ohio, this Columbus-based wingsand-brews chain is now spreading its franchise wings across Indiana, West Virginia and Kentucky. Its four local properties have gained popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings.$ L D hpf RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-5010. If

success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ L D hp THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. The owners are scaling back, though, and opening only on Fridays and Saturdays. $ D hp SAM’S AT THE MONTROSE 318 W. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 945-3496. Sam Anderson has run the Montrose Planation building as an events space for a while, and now has turned it also into a restaurant, serving his well-known and much loved menu of American cuisine staples such as steaks, sandwiches, burgers, seafood and chicken, pizzas and Italian dishes.$$ L D pf SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-2323. Fans of Sam Anderson’s steaks, chicken, pizza and pasta know it is well worth the trip up into the Knobs above New Albany to enjoy the conviviality of his restaurant, and his always satisfying take on classic American steak, sandwiches and seafood. $$ L D p SAM’S HOT DOG STAND 1991 Brownsboro Rd., 259-7587. Devoted fans speak highly of this little shop in lower Clifton. Substantial hotdogs and rave-worthy pulled pork BBQ at reasonable prices are drawing in happy customers. $ L D SHONEY’S 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904, 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 423-6388. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ B L D SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchmans Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ L D h SMASHBURGER 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 326-4141, 312 S. Fourth St., 583-1500. A growing chain located mostly in the West and the South now has two Kentucky locations serving made-to-order Angus beef burgers, and is looking to open up to four more locations. $ L D f THE SPREAD BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-766-2648. Paula Deen’s name has been excised from the entrance, but the concept remains the same: a sumptuous spread of all the things you like and more offered in an all-you-caneat format. $$$ L D STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ B L D h TGI FRIDAY’S 416 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ L D hpf THAT PLACE ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5409. Located inside the Antique Mall in the old textile mill, That Place serves hearty and cleverly tweaked

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lunch fare and Sunday brunch. They are especially fond of their Meaty Jack, a meatloaf sandwich, grilled and topped with Jack cheese and their special sauce. Art on the walls is from friends at Mellwood Art Center, where owners Amy and William Enix initially started. $ Br L

Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ L D h

TOAST ON MARKET 620 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 941-8582. On both sides of the river this breakfast and lunch favorite has gained a loyal following and tremendous word-of-mouth. Be prepared to wait for tables for weekend brunches. $ B Br L pf

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ B L D h

TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ L D hp TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ B L D h W.G. GRINDERS 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 290-6073. This Ohio-based sandwich and soup chain offers Grinders (what I always called “subs,” way back east), strombolis, salads, pasta and personal-sized pizzas are among the choices. $ $ B L D 7 THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ L D hf ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 920-0080, 807 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 742-8600, 5025 Mud Ln., 632-1400, 2870 Technology Ave., New Albany IN, 725-7484, 10715 Dixie Hwy., 271-6990. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville and Southern Indiana have their own

BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all homecooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ L D CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The open-faced roast beef sandwich, with mashed potatoes and brussels sprouts, is a F&D favorite. $ L D pf THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg IN, 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ L D CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ L D h COOK N’ COMPANY 947 Central Ave., 635-1000. A home-cooking restaurant right across from Churchill Downs. You will find cheeseburgers, fried catfish sandwiches and rotating daily specials of

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

ribs, salmon cakes and fried pork chops. Housemade desserts round out lunch or dinner. $ L D f COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ L COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Longtime neighborhood fixture Cottage Inn has a bright new look, and continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has served for more than 70 years. $ L D D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $ B L D DAISY MAE’S 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany IN, 9446237. Daisy Mae’s offers southern food and hospitality. The menu includes fried chicken and cod, meatloaf, mashed potatoes, collards and pinto bean soup every day. Look for daily specials that include a regularly rotating fruit cobbler and red velvet cake. $ L D f DASHA BARBOURS SOUTHERN BISTRO 3825 Bardstown Rd., 882-2081. This Buechel place certainly gives the “bistro” concept a down-home Southern twist. Fried chicken and fish, a vegetable plate with three sides choices, burgers, pork chop sandwich, and chicken wings. Sides include sweet potato casserole studded with pecans, fried corn on the cob and collard greens. $$ L D DAVE & PEG’S COPPER KETTLE 276 Main Cross St., Charlestown IN, 256-4257. $ B L D DRE’LYNNS SOUL FOOD KITCHEN 5019 Poplar Level Rd., 384-7685. $$ L D

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FOOD 4 UR SOUL 612 S. Fifth St., 614-6363. This corner space at Fifth and Chestnut offers up soulful favorites: fried catfish, rib tips, pork chops (grilled, fried, or smothered), sweet potato casserole, fried mac and cheese, and fried bologna sandwiches. $$ L D

Tie in to big portions of cleverly named menu items such as the Pig Pen (biscuits and gravy), the Gone Fishin’ fish basket, the Red Neck filet mignon (meatloaf wrapped in bacon), and its signature dessert, the Cow Pie. $ B L D

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ L D

SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack — salt and pepper. $ L D

FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Long-time fans of Jay’s Cafeteria (including politicians and national entertainers) are no longer bereft. Jay’s former owners serve up Southern Soul food in Shively at family-friendly prices. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $LD FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 883-1462. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ L D GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 5362 Dixie Hwy., 4476660, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ B L D GOOD OLE’ JESSIE’S DIXIE DINER 9609 Dixie Hwy., 937-6332. The core of this resurrected Dixie Highway institution is a ’20s-era Sears, Roebuck & Co. pre-fab building. The new owners want to revive the down-homey neighborhood feel that people remember from when Miss Jessie presided in the 1970s, but want to bring the food and accouterments up to date by creating a blend of “country” and “cool.” $$ L D HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an allAmerican supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ B L D

SWEET PEACHES 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 356-0232. Breakfast, sandwiches and soups are what you will find at this West End spot. And don’t overlook fresh baked goodies like brownies and cookies or the chance to wash them down with peach-flavored sweet tea. This also is the location of the monthly Sweet Peaches Poetry Slam. $ B L D SWEETIE PIE SOUL FOODS 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 409-4120. It’s like sitting in your home kitchen (watching the big screen TV) while someone else cooks. The name should clue you in to the menu: fried chicken, fried catfish, cornbread, mac and cheese, long-cooked green beans and mashed potatoes served at very reasonable prices. $ L D THE KITCHEN 5300 Cane Run Rd., 384-6525. When you want home-style cooking, you will want it like it is served here. Breakfast all day, lunch and dinner too. The regulars like the meatloaf and the chicken fried steak. $ B L D WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ B L

INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-3980, 4590 Dixie Hwy., 447-4856, 4419 Cane Run Rd., 448-1109, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 969-5352. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ L D h

WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $ B L

KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $LDh

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2667. This is cafeteria-style dining done very well. They serve up the standard steam table meatand-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ L D

KRISPY KRUNCHY CHICKEN 4544 Poplar Level Rd., 964-6336. Crispy fried chicken and fried catfish, as well as daily Asian specialties. $ L LE BOSSIER CAFÉ 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 208-9291. The Southern home-style menu shows influence of Creole cuisine, but the restaurant has made news initially for its commitment to representation by United Food and Commercial Workers Union. $ L D

THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ B Br L D f

MARRIC’S RESTAURANT 8402 Hudson Ln., 3847417. Tough critics of places that bill themselves as “home cooking” establishments give Marric’s high praise for really fitting the bill. Real mashed potatoes, chicken-fried steak that’s peppery and non-gristly, and combos ranging from chicken fingers to fish to meatloaf, pork chops and fried-toorder chicken. (Fair warning, this dish takes 20 minutes to cook, but it’s worth the wait.) $ B L D

CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ L

O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites, available from breakfast to dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $ B L D hp

DOWNHOME CAFETERIA 2605 Rockford Ln., 882-2510. Just what the name implies — homey comfort food dished up from a hot table. Salad, coleslaw, deviled eggs, beans (green, baked and pinto), corn and creamy mashed potatoes. Baby back ribs and daily specials like smothered pork chops, liver and onions and salmon croquettes on Friday. $$ L D

ROOSTER CREEK 5637 Outer Loop, 365-3443, 4773 Fox Run Rd., Buckner, 602-0101. Both locations of this new restaurant company feature folksy, down-home hospitality and Southern comfort food.

HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, they attract customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ B L D

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THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30-seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry and musical acts from around the country. Food and beverage service, but it’s not a dinner theater. $$ D hpfe DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes. The expansive seasonal buffet offerings have fans returning show after show. $$$$ L D pe HOWL AT THE MOON 434 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub featuring a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ D hpfe JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$$ L D pf MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ L D p

ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $$ L D ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 4515454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $$ L D ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4771 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-to-order pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $$ L D h ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-9805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $$ L D h ARNO’S PIZZA 3912 Bardstown Rd., 384-8131.$$ L D BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 12 locations. $$ L D h BLAZE FAST-FIRE’D PIZZA 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-7800. The Millennial Restaurant Group, headed up by restaurant legends Junior Bridgeman and Jim Patterson, has brought this California-based pizza franchise to town. Here customers direct pizza makers to customize their own pies from a lineup of meat and vegetable toppings, various cheeses and several different sauces. The pie bakes in just 2 minutes in a flaming hearth oven. There are readyto-order signature pies also for those who can’t make up their minds, as well as salads. $$ L D hf BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ L D h

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090. This handsome space at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane is another idiosyncratic link in the Boombozz chain. The taphousestyle menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies carves its own niche with bottled beer exclusively. $$ B Br L D hf

CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $$ L D hpe

HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ L D h

BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville IN, 913-4171, 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-4111. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded in concept, and the menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The Highlands location boasts one of the only “frost bars” in the area — a refrigerated rail designed to keep your brew cool. $$ L D hpf

COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3730 Frankfort Ave., 7428200. The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for three days, making for a lighter, more developed crust. Topping are fresh, regionallysourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ L D hpf

JET’S PIZZA 101 S. Hubbards Ln., 895-4655, 3624 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1700, 235 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-4440, 6523 Bardstown Rd., 239-0000. Now with a fourth Louisville outlet, this Detroitbased chain offers sit-down service and carry-out. The menu features eight crust flavors and some gourmet pizza options such as a BLT and chicken parmesan. $$ L D f

DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $$ L D h

JOHNNY BRUSCO’S PIZZA 10600 Meeting St., 7498400. This Kansas City chain’s fist foray into the area chose wisely in settling in Norton Commons. There you can find New York style pies, subs, calzones, pasta and salads. $$ L D

BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 9687743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $$ L D h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ L D pf 7 CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ L D CHEEZY’S PIZZA 801 E. Market St., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8500. Fans of the former Tubby’s Pizza and owner Tubby Muncy can smile again. He’s back in the kitchen in a little local pizza joint just east of downtown J’ville, serving up well crafted traditional pies whole or by the slice. $$ L D h

DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424, 917 Baxter Ave., 614-8424. With a second location now, Highlands’ as well as St. Matthews’ residents can savor pizza by the slice, as well as by the mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers. $$ L D hpf 7

IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LDh

JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ L D hp KENNA’S KORNER 4111 Murphy Ln., 426-8340. $$ L D he

EAST OF CHICAGO PIZZA 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 254-0065. The Ohio-based take-out franchise offers deep-dish pies ranging from authentic Chicago-style to Buffalo chicken to Hawaiian to seven-layer vegetarian. Its PB&J dessert pizza is legendary in Ohio. $$ L D

LITTLE CAESARS PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroitbased pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ L D h

FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10619 Manslick Rd., 363-7551. $$ L D h

LOUI LOUI’S AUTHENTIC DETROIT STYLE PIZZA 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7599. Detroit style? It’s a fluffy-deep-crusted rectangular pie baked a good while to give the crust crispiness. Detroit native Michael Spurlock used to make road trips to satisfy a sick friend’s cravings, then made a study of it, and now brings it to the old Ferd Grisanti location in J’town. $$ L D hp e

FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 12216 Shelbyville Rd., 244-2500. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $$ L D h

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $$$ L D hpf

pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for more than 30 years. $$ L D

LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. New York Citystyle pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, has been making inroads in River City, but Luigi’s was one of the first to offer in its authentic form here. $$ L

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. $$ L D h

MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $$ L D h MARCO’S PIZZA 2011 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-1144. A rapidly growing (300+) pizza chain from Toledo, Ohio, adds to the choices of takeout pies in New Albany. Ironically, its CEO lives in Louisville and commutes to Toledo. $$ L D h MELLOW MUSHROOM 3920 Shelbyville Rd., 4096874, 805 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 244-6112. This small pizza/calzone/hoagie/salad chain touts its stoner origins, as the chain’s name, and some of its offerings such as magic mushroom soup and Maui Wowie pizza, imply. Though a chain, each outlet tries to be funky in an individualistic, local way. $$ L D p 7 MIMO’S NEW YORK STYLE PIZZERIA 2708 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-7711. People move to the Knobs for its bucolic setting, but locals still crave their pizza fix. Mimo’s provides that with daily specials, such as Buffalo pizza, calzones, heroes, wraps or salads. Mangia, mangia! $$ L D p 7 MOMMA’S PIZZA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, Jeffersonville IN, 697-3224. Create your own pizza style here or choose one of the specialty pies, such as the Jesse James, with jalapeños, spicy sausage and pepperoni and marinara fire sauce, the ranch chicken or Momma’s vegetable pizza. $$ D MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-5005, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national

OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700, 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 657-5700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, along with amusing appetizers (jalapeño cheese pretzels, Italian nachos), filling salads, sandwiches and burgers. Check out the imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ L D hp OLD SCHOOL NY PIZZA 12907 Factory Ln., 8821776. You want Sicilian-style pizza, just like they make in Brooklyn? You can get it in the Eastern suburbs near I-265. Top it with vegetables supplied by local farmers, or tie into a calzone and finish with gelato. $$ L D ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizzas, massive pies loved for a generation, can now be scarfed down near the arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$$ L D hpf PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $ L D h

PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (11 Locations) $$ L D PAPALINOS 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 736-2700. The original Lower Highlands place has closed, but you can still can get crispy-crust New York-style pizzas with premium, made in-house toppings out in the East End. You can buy a whole pie or just a slice, and also choose from a small plates menu, a charcuterie room and full bar as well. $ L D h PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 426-4644. Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Ave. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ L D 7 PIZZA DONISI 1396 S. Second St., 213-0488. Old Louisville hipsters have long needed a nearby pizza joint. Now they have it and it’s owned by Danny Fitzgerald, impresario behind Mag Bar. Get it by the slice or in whole artisan pies, along with appetizers, fried ravioli and more. $$ L D hf PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 2828286. The pizza is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. We heartily recommend the barbecue pizza. $$ L D PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $$ L D hpf PLEASURE RIDGE PIZZA AND SPORTS BAR 5603 Greenwood Rd., 933-7373. $$ L D hpf ROCKY’S PIZZA & PANINI 3022 Bardstown Rd., 690-8500. Need a quick lunch, and have a hankering for the classic Italian subs and pizzas that you have enjoyed for decades at Rocky’s? Now you can get them quick and to go at this counter-service only branch in the outer edge of the Highlands. $ L D

hpf ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appellation, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana and some hoppy draft. $ L D hpf ROSIE’S PIZZA 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-2484. This Middletown pizzeria has been wowing customers for a while with its store-made crusts, and wide choice of toppings. Fans seem to go for the Whole Lot of Rosie, and the Hot Knots. $$ L D SAL’S PIZZA & WINGS 812 Lyndon Ln., 365-4700. Pizza, calzones, chicken and salads join the food choices in the Lyndon strip mall that also houses other ethnic restaurants. $$ L D hpf SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 629 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $$ L D h f SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 496 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $$ L D h f SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ L D SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd., 895-0755, 239 S. Fifth St., 749-0919, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 614-5300. This locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has expanded to four locations. All are open until 5 a.m. nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ L Dh STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ L D

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RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

TEENA’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 785-4344. Teena’s has taken over the long-standing Frolio’s Pizza building on the corner of Trevilian Way and Poplar Level Rd. The lunch buffet, with vegetable choices and three heat levels of chicken wings, in addition to pizza, gives this neighborhood pizza joint a bit of distinction. $$ L D hpf

theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ L CHEF MARIA’S GREEK DELI 102 Fairfax Ave., 8957075. $ L D 7

TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 949-3000. The long-time Louisville pizzamaker moves across the river to fill the cravings of Hoosiers. $$$ D

DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ B L

UNCLE MADDIO’S PIZZA JOINT 2011 Grinstead Dr., 690-8871. This small chain, from the guys behind Moe’s Southwest Grill, has settled in comfortably at the corner of Bardstown and Grinstead. Order at the counter from a range of custom choices and your pizza gets delivered to your table. $$ L D

DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ L D f

WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany IN, 945-9425. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $$ L D hpfe

DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ L D hf

ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ L D hpf

321 DELI 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. The dining and drinks complex on the corner of Third and Main offers something for everyone. This is the deli component (the others are an ice cream shop and a bourbon bar), which strives to blend the look and feel of a New York deli with the charm of the South. Lunch on nicely done sandwiches constructed from meats roasted in house, gourmet salads and sides to go. $ L D f

EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ B L f THE FEED BAG 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ L FIREHOUSE SUBS 215 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3653473. This national chain touts that they steam their meat and cheese sandwiches. Specialty subs carry out the Firehouse theme and the kids meals include a little fire helmet. $ L D

FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 4113 Murphy Ln., 243-9005. This shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ L D hf HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-6001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany IN, 941-9426. Before holidays, you go in and carry out huge spiral-sliced hams or turkey breasts or beef roasts for your own parties. In the off season, you sit down in the café and order generous, filling sandwiches made from those same meats, served on rolls or croissants, cold or with a hot cheese melt. Soup and salads too. And cookies. $ L D HUBBA HUBBA GOURMET SUBS 104 Fairfax Ave., 384-5272. Twenty years of searching for the great lost subs of his youth led the owner here to open a shop and apply what he learned in his gustatory wanderings to construct his ideal subs. Choose white, wheat or Italian breads, fill them with quality meats and cheeses, farm fresh vegetables and Hubba Hubba’s secret sauces and relishes. $ L D JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ L D f JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ L D JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP (11 Locations) This national sandwich-shop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ LDf

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ L BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ L D 7 BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ L f BRUEGGER’S BAGELS 119 Breckenridge Ln., 6181158. The bagel/deli/sandwich chain has set up shop in the middle of St. Matthews, offering another quick breakfast and lunch option. Choose from bagels and breakfast sandwiches, muffins, panini, salads and soups. $ B L f BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ B L D h BUTCHER’S BEST 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers customcut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ L D f CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 454-7831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semi-fast food. $ L D f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 8129 Preston Hwy., 3847900. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. A second location brings the Windy City fare to Okolona. $ L D f LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. This family-owned pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta has been in operation for 32 years now. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfy café, to eat that deli sandwich, or get coffee and dessert. $ L D f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ L MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 2399997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 895-1698. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ L D MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 5872353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare both in the Highlands and at the YMCA downtown. $ L MUSCLE MONKEY GRILL 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 269-1773, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded by Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ B L D 7 NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ B L NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ B L f OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ L PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 500 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 635-9164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-9400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297, 1534 Bardstown Rd., 459-8160. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ B L D f 66 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5070, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ L D PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ L D POTBELLY SANDWICH SHOP 302 S. Fourth St., 5401100, 4023 Summit Plaza Dr., 420-9616. This local outpost of the Chicago chain offers substantial sandwiches, salads and even breakfast sandwiches and oatmeal both to the downtown lunch crowd along Fourth St., and out at the Summit in the eastern suburbs. $ L D PRIMO’S DELICATESSEN 153 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-4715. It’s just what New Albany needed, a little New York style to give East Coast pizzazz to the downtown dining choices. Serving breakfast and lunch, so look for bagels and a schmear, and meaty sandwiches piled high. Dine-in or carry out six days a week. $ Br L 7 QUIZNO’S SUBS 3173 S. Second St., 375-1400, 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520, 11803 Shelbyville Rd., 253-5833, 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-7849, 220 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-1419. Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ L 7 RED’S COMFORT FOOD 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” offers gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Red closes for the winter, though, so his fans have to wait til spring. $ L f SAE CAFÉ 200 S. Seventh St., 585-3400. This spunky downtown breakfast and lunch place serves more healthful — and tasty — choices. Muffins and other breakfast pastries are by Najla’s, a Louisville baker that uses no trans-fats, corn syrup or preservatives. The sandwiches have clever names — Angry Bob, Hail to the Chief, Mexi Mama wrap and the Knuckle sandwich — and there are also salads and daily soup specials. $ B L SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ B L D f SCOTTY’S VILLAGE MARKET 10640 Meeting St., 384-6338. A grocery store and deli joins the retail mix at Norton Commons. In keeping with the Village theme, the store evokes the feel and ambience of the old local grocery, in addition to doing on-site baking, smoking meats, and offering full to-go dinners. $ L D f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ Br L f THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ L STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ L

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ L D TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 5819200. $ L TOM + CHEE 1704 Bardstown Rd., 409-9494, 319 W. Cardinal Blvd., 749-2299, 111 St. Matthews Ave., 893-3575. This regional soup and sandwich chain now has three locations in town and more in Lexington and Newport. Its hook is serving many variations on grilled cheese sandwiches (including a grilled cheese donut that has gained TV notoriety) and tomato (and other) soups. $ L D f W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 8979684, 4112 Outer Loop, 290-5478. For 30 years this locally owned and operated build-your-own burger joint has packed in fans at its original location near Dupont Circle, and now it has expanded with a new outlet in Okolona. Both serve substantial burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and offer more than 40 toppings on the lengthy condiments bar. $ L D h WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital), 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ L D ZOUP! 318 S. Fourth St., 963-0777. Another chain outlet downtown gives all the lawyers and government workers another choice for soups, sandwiches and salads, plenty of low-fat, dairy-free and vegetarian choices that will rotate daily. $ L D

ATYPICAL MAN BBQ 119 St. Matthews Ave., 8933925. Can there be too many BBQ joints in town? Nah. And this one is in a well-traveled part of St. Matthews. Stop in for all the usuals — pulled pork and brisket and smoked chicken, done juicily, with choice of sauces on the side, and solid side dishes like slaw and beans. $ L D 7 B3Q BBQ 1044 Copperfield Drive, Georgetown IN, 951-3900. Ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket, served up as sandwiches, wraps or platters. Also, smoked baloney and chicken, smoked turkey and sirloin tips, and plenty of side choices. Dine-in, carry-out and catering available. $ L D f BIG BEN’S BBQ 600 Quartermaster Center, Jeffersonville IN, 284-4453. This family run BBQ joint is now at the Quartermaster Center, smoking up a storm and impressing locals who recommend Johnnie’s Smokin Ribs, Joecille’s Backbone (brisket tips), Big Ben’s shredded pork sandwich and Alvin’s Wild-Side shredded chicken sandwich. $$ L D f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ L D f BRANDON’S BBQ & PIZZA 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ L D DICKEY’S BARBECUE PIT 285 North Hubbards Ln., 650-9065, 9930 Linn Station Rd. This Dallas-based chain brings slow-smoked Texas barbecue to the Louisville market. Look for beef brisket, as well as pulled pork, barbecue honey ham, spicy cheddar sausage and Polish sausage, ribs, turkey breast and chicken. The usual sides of slaw, beans and mac and cheese are joined by baked potato casserole and fried okra. $$ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

h = Late Night

FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ L D hpf FDKY BBQ 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 785-4273. The logo shows that “FD” stands for Fire Department — after all, those guys know all about smokin’. Eat dinner in or order a couple of pounds of pulled pork, marinated pulled chicken, brisket or smoked sausage, firehouse chili or Res Q stew and all the required side dishes to go. Ribs on Wednesdays and Friday calls for fried fish. $$ L D f

HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ L D JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. Bouncing back from a fire a couple of years ago, Jimbo’s has begun smoking again in the South End, across from Iroquois Park. All the usual, but for a quick lunch, try the BBQ-stuffed baked potato. $ L D f JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ L D f

FEAST BBQ 116 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 9200454. Owner Ryan Rogers brings a modernist sensibility to the art of barbecue. He has formulas for brining times, and uses a high-tech smoker to keep the temps low and the smoke from overwhelming the meats. He also boasts one of the largest selections of Bourbon in southern Indiana. $ L D hpf

MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 285-1998, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 442-0808. Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ L D h f

FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fire Fresh BBQ pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ L D 7

MOMMA’S MUSTARD PICKLES & BBQ 102 Bauer Ave., 938-6262, 119 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 2907998. The Okie owner of this St. Matthews spot made his Kansas City barbecue so popular, so quickly, he has opened a second store in the East End. Knot on your bib for smoked ribs (pork and beef), brisket, chicken, pulled pork and all the standard sides. Their wings are a contender for best in all the city. $$ D f

FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. And where else can you play miniature golf while waiting for the smoker to finish? $ L D pf

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ L D f

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

PINK BARON BBQ 400 W. Court Ave., 835-7361. $LD RIVER ROAD BBQ 3017 River Rd., 592-7065. Right next to the Water Tower, this little take-out only place smokes brisket and pork: some days one sells out, on other days the other. Winter hours are 116 or until the meat runs out. Potato salad, slaw and drinks. Buy it by sandwich or by the pound. $ L D ROB-A-QUE 4214 Bishop Ln., 365-1871. Owner Rob Bailey has turned his hobby into a business, converting a former Subway store into a fast-casual barbecue joint. From his high-style smoker comes pulled pork and chicken, brisket, St. Louis-style ribs, even smoked turkeys, spiral hams, smoked salmon and meatloaf. Side dishes as you’d expect them with “something extra” always thrown in. $ L RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find a bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ L D hpfe RUBBIN’ BUTTS BBQ 8007 Highway 311, Sellersburg IN, 748-7266. Up the road a ways you will find this “traditional” BBQ joint with some house specialties not so traditional: smoked deviled eggs, BBQ pork queso and their signature, the BBQ hoga-chonga, a flour shell stuffed with baked beans, cheese, and pulled pork, then deep fried and smothered in queso and BBQ sauce. $ L D SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ L D hp SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. Specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ L D fe

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SHANE’S RIB SHACK 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 429-3907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain. $$ L D f 7 SHAWN’S SOUTHERN BBQ 822 State St., New Albany IN, 741-7836. You’ll find Memphis-style ’cue here smoked by owner Shawn Pitts using an old family recipe whose methods and mixtures kept him competitive in BBQ cook-offs and encouraged him to open his own store. Early fans report what he is doing is tasty and satisfying. $ L D SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. This smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ L D p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” points to the restaurant’s location in this legendary midtown neighborhood, while signaling there’s consistently fine and cleverly fused Memphis- and Texas-style barbecue to be found here. Irrepressible owner Eric Gould maintains his neighborhood spot also is about vegetarian food and yard sales, and everything in the store is for sale (artwork on the walls, furniture, even the salt shakers, just make an offer). You’ll also find live entertainment three nights weekly. $$ L D f SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ L D hp TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 2419227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $ L D

AGAINST THE GRAIN BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Slugger Field once again has a beer-pub. The owners, veterans of the local brewing revival, have worked out an ambitious rotating beer selection and a smokehouse theme for the kitchen, with an emphasis on seasonal dishes. $$ L D pf APOCALYPSE BREW WORKS 1612 Mellwood Ave., 589-4843. Veteran home brewers Leah Dienes, Paul Grignon and Bill Krauth run the newest brewery in Butchertown. Their taproom, dubbed The Fallout Shelter, serves up to 10 of their concoctions. $ h BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany IN, 725-9585. F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has pulled back from food service here, while still brewing and serving fine craft beer. Weekends food trucks park at the curb and serve, and now and then look for a cool pop-up restaurant to put the kitchen to use. $$ L D pf BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 562-0007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Its third restaurant site on Main Street boasts an upstairs Bourbon lounge. $$ L D hpfe CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very 68 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ L D hf GORDON BIERSCH BREWERY RESTAURANT 400 S. Fourth St., 589-8935. The growing national brewery and restaurant chain has become an anchor at the corner location at 4th and Liberty, brewing their characteristic German-style bottomfermented lagers, Hefeweizen, bocks, pilsners and Schwarzbiers. The large menu offers the usual pubgrub, but touted as fresh, seasonal and made on the premises. $$$ Br L D hpf NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.) RED YETI BREWING CO. 256 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN. 288-5788. The newest craft brewery in Southern Indiana has begun brewing its own, so the popularity of this brewpub will likely increase. They tout food so fresh in concept, there is no freezer in the kitchen. The brisket sandwich comes with house-made chips, the pork ribs are braised in wheat ale, and desserts include funnel cake with chocolate dipping fondue and a beer float: vanilla ice cream in your choice of porter or stout. $$ L D hp7

BAXTER’S 942 BAR & GRILL 942 Baxter Ave., 4099422. Lively music offerings and excellent barbecue have made this Lower Highlands bar and grill a very satisfying place to dine and to hang out. In addition to expected bar fare like wings and nachos, the menu offers catfish nuggets, bourbonbraised brisket and vegetarian pasta and burgers, including an unusual grilled sweet potato burger. $ L D hpfe BEEF O’BRADY’S 241 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 11324 Preston Hwy., 966-8515, 105 LaFollette Ct., Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1316. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ L D h f BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ L D hpf BROWNIE’S THE SHED GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy., 326-9830; 1578 Bardstown Rd., 454-9402. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Brown used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his two pubs and eateries, both are Louisville’s official homes for Cincinnati Bengals fans. $ L D hpfe BUD’S TAVERN GOOD FOOD & BARBECUE 4014 Dixie Hwy., 384-9131. This spiffed up Shively outpost offers honest bar food that’s receiving high praise. Check out the “gently fried” grouper, burgers (including a Reuben burger), burritos and barbecue. $ L D hpfe BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ L D hpf BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area boasts 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing, a game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ L D hpfe

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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CHAMPIONS SPORTS BAR AND GRILL 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ L D hp CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100, 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 590-3662, 313 W. Cardinal Blvd., 365-1665. At this growing chain, you can get your wings doused in an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno — a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ L D hpf DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513, 630 Barret Ave., 690-7040. $ L D

hpfe DOWN ONE BOURBON BAR 321 W. Main St., 5663258. Situated down one flight below street level, this cool, shaded watering hold stocks 100-plus Bourbons, local craft beer and serves wines by the glass. A small but clever bar menu offers burgers, sandwiches and more. $$ L D pfe DRAKE’S 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 614-7327, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr., 384-3921. Lexington-based Bluegrass Hospitality Group has two lively outlets, in the old Burdorf’s building in St. Matthews and the second at The Summit. Twenty-four craft beers on tap to wash down the traditional pub grub of tacos, ribs and — these days — sushi. Familyfriendly by day and a hoppin’ spot at night, with music videos and a DJ. $$ L D hpf FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 585-3700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ L D hpf

the original location of Café Lou Lou. Their tavern fare is focused on barbecue, with pulled pork and beer-butt chicken specialties, along with hefty sandwiches (their meatloaf is a standout). $ D hp HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ L D hpf HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ L D hpf JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ L D hpf JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ B L D JR’S PUB 826 W. Main St., New Albany IN, 920-0030. Live entertainment on weekends and a daily $1 draft beer pick please the fans. The kitchen has pared down the offerings to burgers and sandwiches. $$ L D hpfe

Lunch, dinner and an all-day Saturday Happy Hour. $$ L D pfe LOUIS’S “THE TON” 1601 Story Ave. Old-timers know the Butchertown space as Johnson’s Beer & Bait, but new owners have renovated it to capture the atmosphere of a European “public house” focusing on moderately priced drinks, cold plate appetizers and tapas such as cheeses, meats and sausages and olives. $$ D he MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2-pound burger menu — jalapeño burger, bacon burger, mushroom burger — plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ L p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ L D hpfe OLD HICKORY INN 1038 Lydia St., 384-3171. The Schnitzelburg building has been around forever, has suffered indignities, like a fire that gutted it a few years ago, but has always bounced back. Now it is expanding its presence with a new kitchen, outdoor deck and a food menu aimed to be competitive with other Germantown hipster hangouts. $ L D hp

KHALIL’S 10966 Dixie Hwy., 632-2227. A family sports bar in Valley Station boasts plenty of TVs, including some tabletop TVs in booths. Menu presents the usual bar food suspects — salads, wings, burgers — but the burgers are on pretzel buns. $ L D hp

O-LINE SPORTS GRILL 2813 N Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-6171. You can watch every game, every sport all year long, they claim. While you do, you can chow down a variety of bar food, such as the juicy Lucy cheese burger or nacho burger. The kids might like the mini-footballs, franks encased in pastry dough, fried and served with dipping sauces. $ L D hp 7

LONE WOLF FAMILY SPORTS BAR 5501 Valley Station Rd., 653-7671. This family-run sports bar, named after its patriarch, called “Lone Wolf,” offers standard sports pub fare: appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, wings, hot dogs and dessert.

OVERTIME SPORTS BAR & GRILL 307 Central Ave., 805-1167. It has everything a sports bar should have: 16 high-definition televisions, two fully stocked bars, three outdoor patios and a game room with arcade games, pool tables and dart

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ L D p GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ L D hpfe GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $ L D hp GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton Garden Inn), 637-2424. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ Br D pf HIGHLANDS TAPROOM GRILL 1058 Bardstown Rd., 584-5222. Another nice choice for beer and bar food along the B’town Rd. corridor, but with former Lilly’s chef Tommy Clemons at the helm the menu includes, but extends beyond, the usual beer cheese, chili and burgers. Look for the crabby patty, smoked shrimp scampi, or French toast sausage, house made with egg and maple syrup. The pulled pork spring rolls are on their way to becoming legendary. $$ L D hpfe HILLTOP TAVERN 1800 Frankfort Ave., 742-2908. The Skelton brothers (John is an alum of Seviche) have taken over this prime Clifton location, once

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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boards. Food too: appetizers, oven-baked sandwiches, pizza, steaks, salads, wraps and pastas. $$ L D

hpf RIVER CITY DRAFTHOUSE 1574-1/2 Bardstown Rd., 690-5111. Another beer joint along the Bardstown Road corridor boasts more than 20 taps focused on independent, American, craft beer (in sample, halfpint and pint sizes) and several bottled options. Its limited (for now) bar menu has garnered early praise for its wings. $$ L D hf ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ L D hpf ROOSTERS 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330, 1601 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 590-3391, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 883-1990. (See review under Casual Dining) SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ L D hpfe SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 6182337. Despite minimal signage, Sergio’s Butchertown digs pull in his fans, who dig the quirky website, and the whole aura of haughty mystery. What you really need when you locate the place is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ D h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramount Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ L D hpf THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 568-1400. This Cordishowned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ L D hpf SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ L D hp SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live!) 585-4100. One of the stalwarts at 4th Street Live, Sully’s works hard to offer a good time. Their happy hour (M-F 5-9 p.m.) draws crowds with great drink prices and creative, favorably priced appetizers. The new menu is an amalgam of allAmerican, American-Irish and Italian-American comfort foods — chorizo chili potato skins, Irish tacos (topped with shredded corned beef), spicy Alfredo penne — that sort of thing. $$ L D hpfe TAVERN ON FOURTH 427 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live), 588-8888. This spacious sports bar is the latest addition to the festivities at Fourth Street Live. You will find plenty of games, filling upscale bar food and lots of drink choices at the bar. This newest addition, targeting the 30 and older crowd, sprawls over two stories of the Kaufmann-Strauss building, including the space that was the Improv Comedy Club. $$ D hpfe THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd. (Mid City Mall), 451-0659. You need a bit of perseverance to track down this saloon on the back side of Mid-City Mall. When you do, you will find one of the city’s friendliest pubs, with a reputation for the best pour of drinks around. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ D hpf

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THE CRAFT HOUSE 2636 Frankfort Ave., 895-9400. Bluegrass Brewing Co. has taken over the old Darkstar Tavern site in Crescent Hill, renovating the space into The Craft House, and expanding its presence with a neighborhood bar and grill, offering fine craft beers, locally sourced foods, live music and an outdoor patio. $$ Br L D hf

Nigerian Cuisine,” Funmi’s offers a range of dishes from North and Central African cultures. Sample goat in a soup or a thick stew. Try soya, a West African shish kebab with a spicy peanut rub or moin-moin, a savory bean cake or lablabi, a Tunisian chickpea soup. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are available as well. $$ L D

THE CURE LOUNGE 1481 S. Shelby St., 619-2178. The big old building at the corner of Burnett and Shelby Streets. has a long history, and The Cure Lounge is adding its chapter. Renovated and restyled by long-time Monkey Wrench bartender Alison Freels as a “super sexy lounge” with a small plates menu, this outpost brings a club vibe to Germantown.$ D hpfe

MAA SHA ALLAH 4113 Bardstown Rd., 491-3152. The name is an Arabic blessing or expression of joy, meaning “Whatever Allah wants to give.” This little Buechel storefront is another example of the entrepreneurial spirit of recent immigrants, in this case from Senegal and Sierra Leone. The menu is African, the ambiance modest, the food spicy and tasty. $$ L D

THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ L D pe

QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ L D

TIN ROOF 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1940. This Nashville-based chain, which took over the old Brendan’s location in the heart of St. Matthews has a split personality: a family-friendly vibe during the lunch hours; and a rockin’ juke joint at night with live music until 3 a.m. Its menu encompasses everything you expect from bar grub: deep-fried hot dogs, hot wings, quesadillas and salads for the ladies. $ L D hpfe TROLL PUB UNDER THE BRIDGE 150 W. Washington St., 618-4829. On the downslope alongside the Clark Memorial Bridge, a large troll beckons the adventurous into a space excavated out of the lost space in the old whiskey warehouse. The renovation boasts lots of dark, brick-walled spaces, as well as a funky outdoor dining area in the lightwell. The menu offers stacked sandwiches, bison burgers and sweet potato tots, and ribeye steaks. $$ L D hpf VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 9444338. $ L D WINGSTOP 4812 Dixie Hwy., 409-6000, 2007 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7171. This Texas-based chain with 500 restaurants nationally, now reaches into Louisville. Their specialty? Wings of course, and you can get them 9 different ways. $$ L D hp ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original Germantown location. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, the arcade is stocked with vintage pinball and electronic games, and the Beer Can Collection is as long as your arm. The chow is high-quality bar grub — things like wings, fried egg rolls, pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and the Death Star cookie, baked in a skillet and topped with ice cream. And top-flight live music late into the night. $ L D hpfe

SILO ETHIOPIAN RESTAURANT 328 Woodlawn Ave. The somewhat now familiar but still exoticto-Louisville fare of Ethiopia brings a new ethnic choice to the Woodlawn area just south of U of L. Some dishes a bit more Somali in origin can be found as well.

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582, 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the many of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ L D ASIAN MOON 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ L D AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ L D hpf CHEER KING STAR 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. Just what downtown needed — a Chinese buffet for quick lunches. Mostly the familiar, a mix of Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunan choices for those who need a little spice to fire them up to get back to work. $ L D CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ L D CHINA 1 8105 Lagrange Rd., 327-6863. $ L D

ABYSSINIA 554 S. Fifth St., 384-8347. This downtown Ethiopian restaurant has gained many fans with its variety of hearty stews, known as “wots,” and interesting vegetarian choices, with large portions and reasonable prices. $ L D ADDIS GRILL 109 S. Fourth St., 581-1011. The signage of this downtown ethnic eatery promises “Mediterranean & Ethiopian Cuisine,” but the menu offers mostly Mediterranean standbys — kabobs, hummus, baba ghannouj, dolmades, tabbouleh. $ L D h CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ L D h FUNMI’S AFRICAN RESTAURANT 3028 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. Billing itself as serving “Modern

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ L D CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 969-9222. $ L D CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ L D CHINA COAST 4952 Manslick Rd., 363-4259. $ L D CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ L D CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ L D CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ L D

RED = Advertiser B = Breakfast Br = Brunch L = Lunch D = Dinner

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CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 284-5580. $ L D

Check out the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ L D h

CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ L D

HUNAN WOK 6445 Bardstown Rd., 231-0393. $ L D h

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ L D

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ Br L D hp 7

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ L D h CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ L D CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ L D CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ L D CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ L D DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353.$LD7 EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ L D EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ L D hp EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ L D hp EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ L D hp 7

JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar ChineseAmerican plates or indulge your more adventurous side with more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ L D f THE JOY LUCK 1285 Bardstown Rd., 238-3070. This fine Asian restaurant in a shot-gun house across from Mid-City Mall serves familiar Chinese dishes very well done, as well as some authentic Taiwanese offerings. Duck dishes cooked in three different styles — Cantonese, Taiwanese and Beijing — found early popularity. The stunningly redone interior and the quality of the food make Joy Luck a competitor with the town’s better Asian restaurants. $$ L D hpf 7 JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-0028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ L D h KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ L D h L & J ASIAN CUISINE 6017 Timber Ridge Dr., 2288399. Expect the usual at this new Pan-Asian spot in the Kroger-anchored strip center at Hwy. 42 near River Road. A large familiar Chinese selection that includes Vietnamese, Thai and Japanese dishes. A good vegetarian selection as well. $$ L D f

LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ L D LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ L D NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ L D ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and wooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $ L D f ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ L D p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ L D PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ L D PANDA EXPRESS 1075 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN 288-0774, 1232 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3268430. The Pentagon even has one of the 1500+ outlets of the nation’s largest Chinese fast food chains, and now we have two. Moderately priced chow such as orange chicken, Beijing beef, SweetFire chicken breast and honey walnut shrimp fill the menu. $ L D

FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh Street Rd., 448-0588. $ L D h GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $LDh GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $$ L D GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3458 Taylor Blvd., 368-1833. $ L D h GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ L D GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ L D h GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fast-food Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargain-basement price. $ L D HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ L D HAPPY DRAGON 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8788. You guessed it: a good, go-to standard pan-China family-style restaurant in Jeffersontown that’s always there when you’re tired of cooking dinner for the clan. $ L D HIBACHI SUSHI BUFFET 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228, 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. Capitalizing on two seemingly persistent trends in American dining, this hot table place offers standard Chinese buffet dishes, and standard sushi choices. Cashew chicken, shrimp with garlic sauce, Dancing Dragon roll, spring and summer maki — it is all here. $$ L D 7 HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively.

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PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ L D QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ L D RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 3437 Breckinridge Ln., 499-7788. $ L D SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St., 568-8833. $LD SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 426-6767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ L D TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant now owned by Ben Jackson, a partner in Z’s Steakhouse and Oyster Bar, is now offering delivery to Norton Commons and adjacent suburbia. $$ L D hp WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ L D h WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ L D YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ L D f 7 YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ L D YOU-CARRYOUT-A 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 282-8881, 621 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-1788. $ L D 7

CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy while shopping. $ L D ARATA SUSHI 9207 U.S. 42, 409-4880. Unlike many Japanese restaurants, Arata is a dedicated sushi place, with only a few items that fall outside of the maki, nigri and sashimi offerings. Chef Paul Pel, a 25-year veteran of the sushi art, has over 30 different maki rolls to choose from, including some uniquely incorporating fruit. The elegant modern interior, and the commitment to the freshest ingredients have been drawing in fans from beyond the East End. $$ L D p ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in St. Matthews houses this neighborhood sushi spot where award-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ L D ASIAN BENTO EXPRESS 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 8910388. Located next to the Señor Iguanas in Dupont Circle, Asian Bento Express offers Chinese, Japanese and Thai dishes, without MSG, and with an emphasis on salads, green vegetables and healthy recipes. The current configuration of the restaurant makes for mostly takeout eating. $$ L D BAR CODE 1758 1758 Frankfort Ave., 209-9061. The long-shuttered site of Maido’s Essential Japanese in Clifton has opened again as Bar Code 1758. Song Kim, formerly the chef at Osaka, emphasizes sushi, along with a menu of Japanese and Korean appetizer-style dishes such as yakitori, Japanese-style skewered chicken. Better yet, they are open until 2 a.m. every night but Sunday. $$ D hpf BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $$ L

DANCING SUSHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 2809 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 384-3387. $$ L D DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444, 202 East Elm St., New Albany IN, 7258600. Owner Toki Masubuchi’s audacious take on fusion cuisine looks to enchant New Albanians as they have Bardstown Road hipsters. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists: pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $ L D hpf FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$LDp FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ L D hp GINZA ASIAN BISTRO 9420 Shelbyville Rd., 7498878. A one-stop Asian restaurant. Choose to eat from the Chinese, Japanese or Thai kitchen, or sidle up to the sushi bar for all manner of vegetarian or fish-focused rolls, or sushi combos that include miso soup and salad. A la carte sushi entrées too. $$ L D hp HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ L D hp HEART & SOY 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6678. To the left is Roots, a sit-down restaurant. To the right is Heart & Soy, serving vegetarian “street food,” and entertaining passers-by with a glass-walled tofumaking room. State-of-the-art equipment from Taiwan transforms organic soy beans from Ohio into soy milk and then coagulates and presses it into tofu as you watch. $ L D HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651, 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Japanesetrained chef Norihiko Nakanashi brings his skills to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. A second location takes over the downtown space from the former Caviar. $$$ L D hp 7 KAILANA SUSHI 6435 Bardstown Rd., 614-7244. Fern Creek gets its own sushi bar, with generous rolls priced competitively — nothing over $12. Four levels of 13-piece, mix and match lunch specials, as well as rice, noodles and salads. $$ L D h KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-9538, 1850 S. Hurst bourne Pkwy., 618-1870. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ L D hp KOBE STEAKHOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant has been drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ L D p MASA JAPANESE 12336 Shelbyville Rd., 409-5040. Middletown, too, joins in the sushi expansion. Open for lunch and dinner, the standard menu is bolstered by daily chef’s specials. Lunch specials include the Japadawg, a hot dog with Japanese toppings, a range of teriyaki choices and ramen noodles, Japanese style. $$ L D h

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MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ L D hpf MR. LEE’S ICHIBAN JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE & SUSHI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional sliceand-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ L D p MT. FUJI 309 Cardinal Blvd., 637-5887. The quickeating strip on the north side of U of L’s campus needed a Japanese place to satisfy students’ sushi cravings. The menu also has tempura and Japanese noodles. $ L D p OISHII SUSHI 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 365-3474. This small, attractive and popular sushi spot serves all the popular maki and nigri near Bowman Field. $$ LDh OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite also has a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ L D ROOTS 1216 Bardstown Rd., 452-6688. Coco Tran, who has nurtured a loyal Clifton-area fan base with her Zen Garden, looks to seduce the vegan/ vegetarian world of the Highlands with this crisp, elegant room. Eat at tables in the front, enjoy smoothies and tea at the bar, or snuggle down in a Japanese pit table in the back. Choose from an international selection of small plates. $ L D RUMPLINGS 2009 Highland Ave., 432-7727. Believing Louisvillians needed a ramen noodle shop, chefs Dustin Staggers and Griffin Paulin (chef-owner and opening chef, respectively, at Roux Louisville, which opened in September), are opening their noodle and dumpling stop in November. Hot steaming bowls of the savory stuff will be served until 5 a.m. to what they expect to be hordes of restaurant industry friends hungry after a long night serving guests. $ D h f SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ L D hp SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ L D h SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Its second location is in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway downtown. $$$ L D hp SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ L D hp STAR SUSHI 2781 Jefferson Centre Way, Jeffersonville IN, 725-8444. Jeffersonville joins the sushi craze with its own source of yellowtail rolls, sashimi and nigiri, which is drawing fans for the freshness and

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using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ L D 7

CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the banh mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ L D

TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ L D 7

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ L D

FOUR SISTERS 2246 Frankfort Ave., 384-4262. Four Vietnamese sisters have developed a devoted following for their Clifton coffeehouse and tea room that also serves sweet and savory crepes and bahn mi. $ L D

TOMO 4315 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 9410200. This Japanese hibachi steak house offers a good show of knife skills and tableside grilling, as well as sushi. Patrons seem to admire the oversize sushi rolls, the salads with ginger dressing, and the grilled chicken and scallops. $$ L D p

SALA THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992, 10403 Glenmary Farm Dr., 493-3944. This entry on the growing list of Thai restaurants is gaining fans, partly because it is vegetarian- and vegan-friendly. $$ L D

flavor of its offerings, and its very fair price point. $$ L D TOGO SUSHI 700 Lyndon Ln., 883-0666. Lyndon sushi fans love this drive-thru sushi joint, finding servings fresh, large, tasty and way better than takeaway sushi from supermarkets. $$ L D

WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions. Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ L D h 7 WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. This Highlands sushi and Asian fusion spot has a sushi bar up front, and a pan-Asian menu in the back dining room. Standard Japanese entrées are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuan-style crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad thai and curries). $$ L D hp

CHARIM KOREAN RESTAURANT 4123 Oechsli Ave., 290-8900. “Charim” can be rendered as “the table is set.” In this case with home-style Korean food, including nokdo jeon, a pancake with mung beans and kim chee — house-made kim chee at that. This modest St. Matthews place quickly became a hit, expecially for the banchan, the assortment of sides that come with each entrée. $ L D 7 KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ L D LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ L D h SHOYU ASIAN FUSION & SUSHI 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 290-9493. This interesting little East End place serves Japanese, Korean and Mexican food, with many small plate offerings that break down ethnic barriers — bulgogi burger, mac n’ kimcheese, fajitas with kimchee, that sort of thing. Sushi too. $$$ L D p

GENGHIS GRILL 4002 Towne Center Dr., 426-4945. The chain of Asian stir-fry restaurants has been steadily moving northward from its Dallas home base. At this suburban location just beyond the Gene Snyder Freeway you can choose one of their dozen “signature bowls” including Szechuan bamboo beef, ginger herb shrimp, Mexican jalapeño and chipotle steak. Or design your own from a choice of protein, vegetables, sauces and starches. $$ L D p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 9148 Taylorsville Rd., 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, 74 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670, 12003 Shelbyville Rd, 690-8344. Owner Mahn Saing and his wife, a classically trained Thai chef, are pleasing diners in St. Matthews and Middletown. Their menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items use many ingredients from their small home garden. $$ LDf TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ L D THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ L D f THAI NOODLES 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The menu covers Thai standards like pad Thai and curries, with some interesting variations, including several duck items, such as Bangkok duck and pineapple curry duck. Noodle dishes range from flat and thin egg noodle to bean thread and rice noodle. $ L D THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this venerable spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ L D THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ L D

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn Ave., 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ L D BANH MI HERO 2245 Bardstown Rd., 456-2022. Seven versions of the French-Vietnamese fusion sandwich on offer here, plus Asian tacos and rice bowls, washed down with Vietnamese coffee, jasmine tea or exotic Asian canned soft drinks. Look for their food truck around town too.$ L D CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. Owner Phat Le, serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and pan-Asian dishes to happy regulars, might finally wean Louisvillians from referring to his building as the former Lentini’s. $ L D hp

LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $$ L D hf LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ L D h NAMNAM CAFÉ 318 Wallace Ave., 891-8859. This small St. Matthews Vietnamese restaurant has gained many enthusiastic fans who flock there for the pho, the banh mi and other authentic Vietnamese dishes. $ L D f PEARL Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth IN, 888-7662648. Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine, elegantly served, Pearl is among the dining choice at Horseshoe Casino. Signature dishes include Vietnamese spring rolls, ginger and scallion fried lobster and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. $$ L D hp PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ L D SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. St. Matthews diners can find tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare here — Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are all choices on the menu. $$ L D h 7 SAIGON ONE 333 W. Cardinal Blvd., 638-8989. When U of L students get the sniffles, they just have to have quick access to a bowl of steaming pho. This Vietnamese place at the new university dorm and restaurant row at Cardinal Towne provides needed sustenance. $ L D h VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ L D h ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes. $ L D h

BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. Chef Alexander Dulaney and owner Anthony Dike’s refocus of the restaurant around a bistro menu continues its popularity. $$$$ D pfe BRASSERIE PROVENCE 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 883-3153. This Provencal-style French brasserie serves classical and Southern France specialties. Owner Guy Genoud, a native of Cannes, and chef de cuisine Edoardo Bacci offer a large selection of mid-priced lunch and dinner fare including an array of seafoods, lamb, duck and beef, daily “plat

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du jour,” delightful aperitifs, wines and cocktails just like you’d find in Provence. $$$ L D hpf GHYSLAIN 721 E. Market St., 690-8645, 1215 Herr Ln., 690-6001. The two locations of this French bistro, in NuLu and in Westport Village are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, serving grilled baguettes, croque monsieurs, panini, quiches, soups, salads, and fine chocolates. $$ B L D LA COOP: BISTRO À VINS 732 E. Market St., 4102888. One of the hottest spots in NuLu. Uber talented chef Bobby Benjamin is turning out classic French bistro fare with some modern twists, an idea that keeps his little place packed with happy diners. $$$ B L D hpf LOUIS LE FRANCAIS 133 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 944-1222. This charming French bistro extends the range of international dining options in New Albany. Louis “Louis the Frenchman” Retailleau serves a menu typical of the cuisine of his native southwest France. $$$$ D p7

EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 290-2390. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$ L D h GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$ D

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ Br L D pf MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ L D hpfe MORE SHENANIGAN’S 4521 Bardstown Rd., 4933585. $ L D hpfe O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ L D hpfe PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This downtown Irish bar was one of the first to open in the Whiskey Row complex. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ L D hpfe SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ L D hpfe

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ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ L D 7 AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes are served in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ L D pf ANSELMO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 1511 Bardstown Rd., 749-0444. Highland residents hankering for simple, traditional, filling Italian dishes can find just that in this Italian bistro. The menu offers what one would expect: pizza, pastas, lasagna — at reasonable prices. $$ L D hp 7 BELLA ROMA AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT 134 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 725-9495. The building that recently housed Bocca Italian is now Bella Roma, also serving Italian food in a pleasant environment in the midst of New Albany’s growing restaurant row. $$$ L D f7 BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ L D hpfe BLU ITALIAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott). See listing under Upscale Casual.

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BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ L D hp 7 CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$$ L D hpf CENA 9200 Taylorsville Rd., 333-0376. (See review under Upscale Casual.) COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $$ L D p DIFABIO’S CASAPELA ITALIAN RESTAURANT 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. DiFabio’s Casapela has made its mark in this Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the red-checked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccata, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ D f DON VITO’S ITALIAN BISTRO 207 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 913-4792. Two Hoosier restaurateurs from Austin, IN, have taken over the old Irish Exit space and brought in Annette Saco, chefowner at Louisville’s La Gallo Rosso until it closed last spring. The owners are shooting for the ambiance of “an Italian speakeasy” with a full bar and a menu including sea bass, risotto, scallops and stuffed chicken breast. $$ L D pf THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ L D MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr. 394-9797. Now locally owned, Martini’s continues to serve hearty, well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas, a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ L D hpf OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ L D hp THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ L D hp PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $$ L D PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ L D hpfe ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ L D hp 76 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ L D 7 STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ L D STRATI WILD ITALIAN 1702 Bardstown Rd., 3654864. Customers can build pasta dishes, salads or Italian wraps with the ingredients of their choice, including vegan and even ingredients for gluten intolerance. If creation on the fly is too challenging, there are house recipes for lasagna, pasta, salad, soup and wraps. All this from the Eggheadz LLC guys behind Wild Eggs and Wild Rita’s. $ L D f TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ L D hp VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore has secured Volare a top spot for suave Italian dining. Its U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has received rave reviews. $$$ D

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MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojito quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $$ L D hpf

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-8892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ L D CLAY OVEN INDIAN RESTAURANT 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 254-4363. Northern Indian cuisine comes to Middletown, with a focus on the clay oven specialties of the region, including some Nepalese dishes, like goat curry and chicken mo-mo (a kind of chicken and dumplings dish). Also look for a selection of lamb dishes and, of course, a large vegetarian menu. $$ L D DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ B L D p KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1277 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ L D hf LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 2956 Richland Ave., 479-3353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentil-battered stuffed peppers — followed by

Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabi-style (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ L D f SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ L D 7 TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ L D f

A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 9511715. $ L D f AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ L D ALADDIN’S CAFÉ 111 W. Market St., New Albany IN, 489-7969. The name should be a clue that Aladdin’s Café brings Middle Eastern cuisine to the still-growing dining scene in New Albany. You’ll find beef, lamb or chicken gyros, chicken shawarma, tabbouleh and hummus. Finish your meal with thick Turkish coffee. $ L D h 7 ANDALOUS MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 709-4001. Though we’re not complaining, most Mediterranean cafés around town skew toward standard Middle Eastern hummus and falafel fare. Andalous does, too, but it serves more ethnically eclectic fare too, including foul, an Egyptian fava bean dish, and tagines and harira, typically Moroccan dishes. $$ B L D BURNING BUSH GRILLE 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. This Prospect-area Mediterranean café serves kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ L D f CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. Highlands diners enjoy an eclectic and international menu at the friendly corner place, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. $ B L D hpf CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN CAFÉ 2716 Frankfort Ave., 290-6050. Middle Eastern food of an aboveaverage quality. Kabobs and hummus, of course, but also shirazi salad with tomatoes, cucumbers and onions in a lemony dressing, and chicken stew with pomegranate and walnuts. $ L D EAT A PITA 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ L D 7 THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ L D hf GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ L D

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LITTLE JERUSALEM 5312 S. Third St., 614-6465. Middle Eastern fare in the ethnic food complex around Iroquois Manor. The usual things, like hummus and falafel, but also chicken sumac and fatoush and mujadara, made from green lentils, basmati rice, onions and exotic spices. $ L D MASALA GRILL 528 S. Fifth St., 562-0202. $ L MIRAGE MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 4100 Preston Hwy., 363-7788. Preston Highway’s international restaurant row is enriched by this Middle Eastern eatery, run by the owners of the nowdefunct Little Jerusalem. Gyros, hummus, falafel — what one would expect, but done with attention to details and a flair for flavor. $$ L D f PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and flafel. $$ L D h PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220, 12537 Shelbyville Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ L D PRINCE HOOKAH LOUNGE 1489 S. Fourth St., 618-4201. With the Highlands just about packed as full as possible with hookah bars, now Old Louisville residents, too, can drop in for a puff at the corner building that has seen many owners and incarnations over the years, and have a burger, or a turkey sandwich, some falafel or hummus or wings.$ L D h SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. An unassuming location in an odd spot downtown, but a most pleasant space inside, with food and service that continues to please regulars and delight visitors. The popular menu items continue to be rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ L D pf SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich? $ L D f SAM’S GYRO 9104 Taylorsville Rd., 491-1182. This Hikes Point hummus and kebab joint has won fans with its, tasty food and friendly service. The menu features everything you would expect from a typical Eastern Mediterranean menu: falafel, tabouli, gyros, baklava and spanakopita. $ L D h SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 4269954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. From a tiny neighborhood storefront, Shiraz quickly grew out of its original location and expanded into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, such as char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ L D f 7 TUT’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3425 Bardstown Rd., 452-1899. The Buechel area’s hunger for hummus, dolmas, lamb and falafel is well served by this Middle Eastern eatery. $ L D f THE WAREHOUSE HOOKAH BAR & CAFÉ 504 State St., New Albany IN, 276-5894. Choose from up to 10 flavors of tobacco to relish at the table with friends at this first hookah bar in southern Indiana. Also on offer is a full bar and American pub grub such as pizzas, pita and hummus, corn dogs, jumbo pretzels, chips and salsa or queso to munch on between puffs. $ L D hpe

ZÄD MODERN MEDITERRANEAN 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. Nabil Al-Saba, the owner of Clifton’s The Grape Leaf, has taken over the former location of Pita Delites, updated and refreshed the interior and rebadged it Zäd Modern Mediterranean. The menu will update the usual Middle Eastern version of Mediterranean cuisine, with the addition of some new salads and Mediterranean and Moroccan stews. $$ L D ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963, 3723 Lexington Rd., 409-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now has three Louisville locations. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ L D 7

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 434 W. Jefferson St., 583-6700, 8603 Citadel Way, 4934720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080,103 Quartermaster Crt., Jeffersonville IN, 282-7823. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular minichain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ B L D f 7 JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ L D p 7 ROUX 1325 Bardstown Rd., 530-0531. Chef Dustin Staggers, who revamped The Monkey Wrench’s kitchen, has moved on to his own restaurant, serving classic New Orleans dishes like barbecue shrimp, beignets, chicory coffee and Abita beer in a cozyfunky Highlands space. $$ L D hpfe SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. This Cajun/Creole place in a renovated Anchorage roadhouse continues to find fans. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ Br L D hpf

CATRACHOS RESTAURANT 4231 Taylor Blvd., 654-7401. The food here is Central AmericanLatino, things like baleadas (folded, filled flour tortillas) and chuleta ahumada (a smoked pork chop dinner with beans, rice, plantains and a Honduran cream sauce). Tacos and tamales, too, plus authentic pupusas, explained on the menu as” thick, handmade stuffed corn tortilla.” $ L D CUBAN FLAVOR 5700 Outer Loop, 618-2181. The flowering of Cuban/Caribbean cuisine is reaching out beyond the city. This little place, in a strip mall, of course, brings black beans and rice and pork asado to Okolona. $ L D EL RINCON CUBAN RESTAURANT 8118 Preston Hwy., 742-2768. Bringing Cuban cuisine to Okolona. Along with familiar dishes such as arroz con pollo, the menu also includes specialties such as tasajo (braised beef in tomato sauce), ajiaco (a root vegetable stew made with malanga, yucca and corn) and cremas — a variety of pureed vegetable soups. $ L D EL TENAMPA BAR & GRILL 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-4053. $ L D p

servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $$ L D p f HAVANA RUMBA & TAPAS BAR 2210 Bardstown Rd., 749-4600. The Havana Rumba family brings Cuban food to the Douglass Loop, and adds a large selection of Spanish tapas as well. Fans have also spoken reverently of the mojitos and other cocktails in the stylish bar. $ L D hpfe 7 PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ D pf ROOF TOP GRILL 708 Louis Coleman Jr. Dr., 785-4069. This little spot just off Broadway is authentically Jamaican, its brightly colored chalk menu offering items such as jerk chicken, jerk rib tips, curry chicken and oxtails, and sides of rice, meatless collard greens and cabbage. The Jamaican owner even makes his own seasonings. $ L D TAYLOR G’S JAMAICAN JERK 332 W. Broadway, 587-6127. $$ L D

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Crt., 327-3033, 1440 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-2489. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” has two area locations, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and TexMex food at reasonable prices. $$ L D hpf 7 DON BENITO’S 104 Fairfax Ave., 384-5272. A “licensed chain restaurant” serving Tex-Mex fast food, including five flavors of tortillas (like jalapeño, tomato-basil and chipotle) that wrap quesadillas, burritos, tacos, and serve as the bed for nachos. Fill them with what you would expect: black beans, seasoned beef, chicken, shrimp or pork. $ L D MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fastfood Mexican-American than authentic South-ofthe-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ L D SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 365-1424. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Now with two locations, in St. Matthews and Middletown. $ L D f TUMBLEWEED TEX MEX GRILL & MARGARITA BAR (14 locations). Starting as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany, Tumbleweed grew to become an area favorite serving bold, southwest-inspired food such as burritos, spicy chile con queso, mesquitegrilled steaks, fish and chicken. Each Tumbleweed Margarita Bar offers two dozen tequila varieties and dozens of sweet and tangy margarita combinations. $ L D hp

HABANA BLUES TAPAS RESTAURANT 320 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 944-9760. Habana Blues’ extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ L D

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HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana can be found at both locations of this consistently busy Cuban restau rant. Bountiful

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907 S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ L D f 7

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p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

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CAFÉ AROMA 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 618-3434. The menu is billed as “world cuisine with a Mexican flair” but it’s really mostly Mexican and really mostly good, according to our friends in the neighborhood. Affordable, casual and filling. What’s not to like? $ L D CASA FIESTA 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 423-4604. This Mexican restaurant in the Summit area has impressed diners with its clean, modern ambience and its generous portions for reasonable prices. $ L D pf CHIPOTLE MEXICAN GRILL 315 S. Fourth St., 5848606, 10333 Westport Rd., 526-5170, 1075 Bardstown Rd., 452-8990. Now with three Louisville locations, this increasingly popular TexMex chain, with an emphasis on cooking with humanely-raised meat products, seems to have struck a chord with consumers. $ L D COCONUT BEACH TACOS & CERVEZA 2787 S. Floyd St., 634-2843. The huge space that once was Tailgaters is now the third restaurant opened this year by Fernando, Christina and Yaniel Martinez. The menu here is anchored by delicious, though bargain-priced tacos created to lure in U of L students from nearby (the place is across from Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium), but the Martinez trio’s reputation for serving exceptionally flavorful food in cool, distressed locations (Mussel & Burger Bar, Cena, El Taco Luchador) draws fans from all over. Burritos, empanadas and tortas are on the menu too. Come the weekend, the space is converted into a bar and dance club. $ L D hpf EL CAMINO 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5417. A highconcept melding of tiki bar, southern California surfer hangout and well-crafted Mexican street-food emporium. The sound track features Beach Boy-era surfer music, and the TVs show surfer movies and Mexican wrestling only. In the warmer months, the patio is THE spot to be. $$ Br L D hpf EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1909 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 266-9605. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American com munity has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ L D p EL MARIACHI 9901 La Grange Rd., 413-5770. Fans of this Mexican restaurant, situated between a bakery and an ethnic grocery, find much to rave about: tacos and burritos made with the bakery’s fresh tortillas, funky authentic fillings, and quick, friendly service. $ B L D p 7 EL MARLIN SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. As genuine a take on Mexican seafood cookery as is possible in land-locked Kentucky. Choose mild or spicy preparations of marlin, tilapia, grouper and snapfish. $$ L D p 7 EL MOLCAJETE 8106 Preston Hwy., 742-3485, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. $$ L D hp EL MOLCAJETE 2932 S. Fourth St., 638-0300. You can get gringo-style tacos (with shredded lettuce, cheese & sour cream) at this south-end Mexican joint. But if you come here, why not eat like a native? Lash your pork, beef and chicken tacos with fresh-squeezed lime juice and a heap of sliced radishes. Want to get truly authentic? Step up to beef tongue (lengua), intestine (tripas) or brain (sesos). $$ L D hp EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ L D pf EL NOPAL (19 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain that now numbers 19, winning popularity on the basis of delicious and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ L D pf 78 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

RANCHERO 2918 Hikes Ln,. 410-5668. Aficionados of Mexican food speak well of the nacho grande, tostadas de ceviche and spicier-thanusual queso. $$ L D p

local Latinos, which is always a good sign. Look for gorditas and carne asada, as well as familiar fare like enchiladas. Word is that the horchata is rich and spiced just right. $ L D p

EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ D p

LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 8730 Westport Rd., 618-4588, 5059 Preston Hwy., 618-2833, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 284-1362. For those who crave genuine Mexican tacos, you want them convenient when the urge to scarf one down strikes. These little places will certainly satisfy those cravings. $ L D

EL TACO LUCHADOR 938 Baxter Ave., 365-4823. Chef Fernando Martinez keeps churning out creative, taste and affordable restaurants. This time, a taqueria, in the heart of Baxter Ave.’s restaurant row. You may recognize some taco names, such as carnitas or carne asada, but as the Martinezes have done at their two other restaurants, Guaca Mole and Mussel & Burger Bar, everything gets a clever riff in the kitchen. Call it elevated Mexican street food. And do try the amazing tortas. $ L D h EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. El Tarasco’s take on Mexican food appeals both to the area’s growing Latino population and Anglos who want to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ L D p EL TORAZO 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-7272. A family-oriented Mexican restaurant offers the expected menu items, as well as some more sophisticated dishes, such as 7 mares sopa, a soup with shrimp, scallops and octopus; banderillas, a colorful beef brochette; and chuleta sabrosa, a Durango-style grilled steak. $$ L D pf EL TORITO DE JALISCO 4325 Preston Hwy., 4098138. $$ L D pf EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 489-3839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ L D pf 7 FIESTA TIME AMIGOS 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $LDp FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ L D p GUACA MOLE 9921 Ormsby Station Rd., 365-4823. Fernando Martinez, veteran of Havana Rumba and Mojitos, has graced the East End with his “creative Mexican” restaurant. As the name emphasizes, the menu explores different moles, and the creativity comes with modern twists on classic Mexican dishes. Early buzz is hot, for both the food and the up-to-the-minute cocktail program designed by Martinez’s wife Cristina. $$ Br L D pe HAY CHI WA WAA 808 Lyndon Ln., 883-1924. This Tex-Mex place lives up to its tagline, “Ditch the chains for authentic Mexican.” The menu claims everything is prepared from scratch in generous portions. In addition to fajitas and burritos, there is a “100% Mexicano” section (carne guisada, tacos al carbon), and a fun bar menu. $ L D p LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ L D h LA CARRETA 7319 Preston Hwy., 742-1320. A Mexican joint with a bit more interesting menu than some. Look for Texas quail poppers, shrimp diablo, fajita nachos, and botana platter, as well as quesadillas, taquitos and queso. $$ L D h LA HACIENDA GUADALAJARA 4132 Outer Loop, 384-6427. $$ B L D LA POPULAR 2521 Seventh St Rd., 636-3688.$LD p LA RIVIERA MAYA 8104 National Turnpike, 361-3566. This South End Mexican restaurant is popular with

LA SIERRA RESTAURANT AND TAQUERIA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ D hf LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as genuine Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ L D f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Genuine Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant com mu nity. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ L D pf MANGO’S BAR & GRILL 4632 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291, 1921 Bishop Ln., 749-5300. $$ L D 7 MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán arguably kicked off the restaurant renaissance along East Market Street, in the area now known as Nulu. His stylish bistro serves distinctive cuisine from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula. $$ L D MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ L D hp PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ L D p PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Church Rd., 239-4646. $$ L D p PUJOLS MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 290-5831. You can find a good variety of Mexican dishes here: tacos, empanadas, enchiladas, tortas and special dishes such as tampiquena (grilled flank steak in a creamy hot pepper sauce), milanesa de pollo (breaded chicken breast with cheese and pico de gallo) and even a version of paella. $$ L D h p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (14 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ L D f RAMIRO’S CANTINA 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333. Ramiro Gandara’s Mexican restaurant in the heart of Crescent Hill’s restaurant row has his mom, Tina Ruton Escajeda, in control in the kitchen. Together they deliver some unique menu items, such as enchiladas verdes, lobster quesadilla, guacamole burger, and shrimp fajitas. And don’t forget Tina’s specialty: scratch-made tamales. Vegetarian choices too, and a full bar. $ L D hpf

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RIVIERA MAYA MEXICAN CUISINE 2206 Frankfort Ave., 290-3119. This addition in upper Clifton is primarily Mexican, with some menu influences from elsewhere in Latin America.You will find fajitas and tacos, of course, with a wide choice of toppings and fillings, including seafood. But the big attraction is the conchinita pibil — longcooked pork shoulder braised in citrus juices and Mayan spices. $$ L D p ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213 Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ L D hp SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ L D SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581, 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 409-9565, 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 742-1900. This expanding local chain is going upscale, with redesigned crisp modern decor, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casual, comfortable modern atmosphere. $ L D hpfe SIN FRONTERAS 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 292-0901. $$ L D p SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Rd.,459-7776, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 5612 Bardstown Rd., 6183430. This expanding chain, founded by Saul Garcia, started down on Main St.’s museum row but now has four stores. The extensive menu satisfies those who want standard fare like tacos, fajitas and burritos, and also offers more sophisticated fare

like salmon and shrimp, steak and several Mexican chicken preparations. $ L D hpf7 TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year Taco Bell was born in Southern California, the Taco Tico chain had been gone locally for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ L D TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ L D TIENDA LA CHAPINLANDIA 1209 McCawley Rd., 384-7075. If those tiny hole-in-the-wall places are the best for real Mexican food, this little South End place will satisfy Okolona’s need for tacos and burritos. $ L D p VILLE TAQUERIA 3922 Westport Rd., 721-2886. Owner Fabian Garcia builds tacos upon scratchmade tortillas, tortas, and burritos — the way he tasted them when he visited Mexico as a kid. The bar serves margaritas, “bourbonritas” and micheladas (the beer, tomato juice and hot sauce concoction commonly found in better Mexican restaurants). $ L D hp WILD RITA’S 445 E. Market St., 584-7482. Downtown needed this new concept from the owners of Wild Eggs: Modern Mexican food and a hundred choices of tequila at the bar. Owners J.D. Rothberg and Shane Hall, along with Chef Tony Efstratiadis have put together an entertaining and tasty menu, with things like tangy-spicy ceviches, mussels con chorizo, tamarind-glazed cod, a bunch of different tacos and an upscale tamale. $$ L D hpe YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana restaurant that offers standard Mexican

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music 7 = Delivery: TakeoutTaxi.com

cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ L D hp

ARGO SONS COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. This roastery is mostly a wholesale business, but there is a classic espresso bar, so you can run in, buy a few pounds of beans and have a nice cuppa. No crullers or Danish, though. $ BEAN STREET COFFEE CO. 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ BORSALINO COFFEE AND EUROPEAN PASTRYDELI 3825 Bardstown Rd., 807-5325. This Buechel store is somewhere between a coffee shop, a fancy bakery and a deli. You can stop in for your morning coffee and sweet bun to go, buy a cake for dessert or take away a stuffed pita for lunch. $ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 981-2633. $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an oldfashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ h f HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE (12 locations) Heine Bros. continues their dominance in the local brewing scene. The stores are always friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches. $ h fe HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of

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Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ h f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ fe JAVA BREWING COMPANY 1707 Bardstown Rd., 384-3555. This casual spot boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ fe KAELIN’S COFFEEHOUSE 1801 Newburg Rd., 6322818. This bright addition to the breakfast and caffeine needs of the west side of the Highlands is physically attached to Mulligan’s Bar, which, of course, squats in the space forever to be known as “the old Kaelin’s.” Strong coffee, pleasant service and breakfast choices, from bagels to egg sandwiches, have made it a hit. $ B L

BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ B 2 DIPS AND A SHAKE 321 W. Main St., 566-3258. Got an ice cream craving? Specifically a Comfy Cow craving but you don’t have the time to rush from downtown to the ’burbs to sate it? Then visit this spot across the street from Actors Theater to get your fix. $ f ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ANNIE MAY’S SWEETS CAFÉ 3110 Frankfort Ave., 384-2667. The only gluten and nut-free bakery in the state caters to customers with dietary issues such as celiac disease and allergies. Cookies, brownies,

MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN 2180611.$ 7 PLEASE AND THANK YOU 800 E. Market St. This little coffee house with a difference serves breakfast and lunch, and offers an eclectic selection of vinyl records, which can be sampled in a listening room. Try the ganache latte, Thai iced coffee, granola parfait, Capriole cheese with honey and grapes on a baguette, or a field greens salad with dried cherries and blue cheese. $f

THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $

QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129, 327 W. Cardinal Blvd., 690-5553, 137 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 590-3426. Fans of this local purveyor of excellent coffee and provider of amenable working spaces can find their caffeine fix and wi-fi hotspot at any of the three locations. $ f

DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. $

RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. Drive-through the original take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) or walk into the little space at Spalding, for your morning latte, coldbrewed iced coffee drinks., or excellent whole beans roasted on the premises. $

DESSERTS BY HELEN 3500 Frankfort Ave., 451-7151. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $$ DINO’S BAKERY 4162 Bardstown Rd., 493-2396. Dino Ghazawi, whose family owned a bakery in his native Jordan, has renovated space in the Buechel Plaza Shopping Center, installed three ovens for baking pita, French and Italian bread and pies. Many of those are sold wholesale, but retail shoppers can get locally made fresh pita and other Middle Eastern groceries. $ B

SISTER BEAN’S 5225 New Cut Rd., 364-0082. $ f SMOKEY’S BEAN 1451 S. First St., 749-6900. Located on the corner of 1st and Burnett, this coffeehouse and sandwich shop gives good choices to Old Louisville residents. Locally roasted coffee plus frappes. On Friday and Saturday nights sit down and puff on a hookah until 2 a.m. $ h f STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f

TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. (Ramada Plaza Hotel), 499-9719. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ VINT COFFEE 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, Now owned by Heine Bros. this Crescent Hill location is the only one that keeps the name that reflects the concept that all their beverages — coffee, tea, ale and wine — will “have a vintage, an annual release cycle.” $ f

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CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 5612940, 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall Kiosk). Erika Chavez-Graziano continues her chocolate explorations at her artsy shop in the Butchertown Market building on Story Ave., as well as at a kiosk in Oxmoor Mall. Look for esoteric, but luscious, inventive chocolate confections such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979, 2223 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, 339 W. Cardinal Blvd., 409-5090, 109 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 924-7197, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 365-2853. This “new-fashioned” ice-cream parlor made an immediate splash in its original Westport Village location with its intriguing range of flavors (salted caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter). Now fans can also find their favorite flavors popping up all over town as new outlets open in the Highlands and New Albany. $ hf

LOUISVILLE TEA COMPANY 9305 New LaGrange Rd., 365-2516. Teas of all sorts, pastries and cookies make for a perfect morning snack the English call “elevenses.” $ B L

SUNERGOS COFFEE 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820, 231 S. Fifth St., 589-3222. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee. $ e

CAKE FLOUR 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 425-0130. This little bakery, with its all-natural ethos and locavore connections, has moved to the East End, and expanded its menu options beyond savory scones into bacon and egg biscuit sandwiches, catered box breakfasts for offices and large quiches by preorder. Lunch offerings include stuffed croissant sandwiches and soups, and a new espresso bar is there to deliver a fresh jolt. $ f

cakes, pies, wedding cakes all made without wheat, dairy, eggs, soy or tree nuts. Arrive early, before the vegan and allergen-free oatmeal cream pie cookies sell out. $ 7 THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREAD AND BREAKFAST 157 E. Main St., New Albany IN, 725-5983. Baker Laura Buckingham made a solid reputation selling her artisan baked goods at farmers markets. Now she’s moved to downtown New Albany building where she makes breads, scones, muffins and savory items such as cheese panini with bacon, pepperoni or spinach, strata and bacon cinnamon rolls. $ B L 7

DUNKIN DONUTS 1250 Bardstown Rd., 290-3865. You will find hot sandwiches as well as doughnuts and coffee, just what you need to get you going in the morning or to get you steady enough to get home at night. $ B L h THE FUDGERY 416 S Fourth St.(Fourth Street Live), 409-7484.$ GELATO GILBERTO 9434 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-7751. Justin and Kristin Gilbert so loved the gelato they ate as students in Italy that they returned there after graduating to study gelato making. Their popular store draws fans out to Norton Commons, though owners can often be found scooping cones and cups at special events. Their store menu includes pies and crepes as well. $ h GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $

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GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573 $ B L HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 3113 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 590-3580, 2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6100. $ L D hf HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ B JASMIN BAKERY 2201 Steier Ln., 458-0013. This “European-style” bakery has moved to more upscale digs but continues to offer fresh breads and rolls, as well as an eclectic menu Eastern Mediterranean fare, such as gyros and baklava, at reasonable prices. $ B L D f MARLYCE’S PLACE 1404 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville IN, 551-5577. A Triangle Center stop for anyone needing a sweets fix. Come in to see the line up of elaborately decorated cakes, custom cookies, cupcakes, pies, fudge and sweet breads. Need a cake in the shape of an enchanted castle for your little princess’s birthday? Call Marlyce. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ B

NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ B PEARL STREET TREATS 301 Pearl St., Jeffersonville, IN. 288-8850. An invigorating walk across the Big Four Bridge will bring you down very close to this family-run frozen yogurt shop that also serves soup, chili, cookies, popcorn, and frozen dog treats. Novelty soda flavors in the cooler, but they will refill your water bottle for free. $ L D PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ B STATE DONUTS 12907 Factory Ln., 409-8825. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite donut by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ B

painted sugar cookies, with designs in white chocolate that change with the seasons and holidays. Also custom cookie and cake designs. $ B SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 899-2008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts. $$ hf SWEETS & SUCH BAKERY 3947 Dixie Hwy., 4491008. A Shively area neighborhood bakery. Cupcakes and cookies, brownies and cake, but its renown stems from the Presidential donut, a cream-filled concoction that won Bill Clinton’s admiration. $ SWEETS BY MORGAN 533 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN. 644-4276. This new bakery began within Ann’s by the River, but it’s since moved to its own space. Owner Morgan Coomer is dedicated to scratch baking and using real butter in her icings. Expect the usual sweet bakery items like cookies and cupcakes, along with clever specialties such as custom-decorated party cake with fondant icing designs. $ B L D WILLIAM’S BAKERY 1051 N. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 284-2867. $ B WILTSHIRE PANTRY BAKERY AND CAFÉ 901 Barret Ave., 581-8561 (See listing under Cafés.)

SWEET FROG 10494 Westport Rd., 423-3993, 1401 Veterans Parkway Ct., Clarksville IN, 725-7765, 5909 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-3535, 1987 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-9964. The hook here is a wall of live-culture self-serve yogurt dispensers. A toppings bar includes sprinkles, chocolate and butterscotch sauces, graham crackers — and on and on. $ B SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. This long-time southern Indiana home-style bakery is noted for baked goods just like your grandmother made. Its specialty:

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MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 86 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 hikes point – buechel EAST 88 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 89 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 90 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NEW MAP NA 9 under construction NORTH EAST 91 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 92 12 shively – pleasure ridge SOUTH 93 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 94 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 95 15 clarksville INDIANA 95 16 jeffersonville

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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MAP • 3 (NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS 86 Winter 2014 www.foodanddine.com

MAP • 4 (SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014 87

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER (NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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MAP • 13 (SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT www.facebook.com/foodanddine Winter 2014 93

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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