DUBAI’S FINEST FOOD & TRAVEL E-MAGAZINE EDITION 12, Summer 2016
#ramadan
#summer2016
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Edition 12, Summer 2016
www.foodemag.com Ishita B Saha Editor & Co-Founder ishita@foodemag.com T/FB/Instagram: @ishitaunblogged www.ishitaunblogged.com Debbie Rogers Deputy Editor & Business Head debbie@foodemag.com FB/Instagram: @coffeecakesandrunning T: @bettyboodubai www.coffeecakesandrunning.com Mita Ray Srinivasan Consultant & Marketing Strategist mita@foodemag.com www.mita56.com Webdesign Romy Kalluvely romyjohn@outlook.com
Reflect on what you have and who you have around you and stay blessed, always!
Ramadan Kareem and Hello Summer! Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and is a month of great significance in a Muslim's life. It calls for abstinence, discipline and a bit of introspection. With soaring temperatures outside, this is definitely not the easiest period to fast, so do take care if you are fasting and break your fast sensibly and staying hydrated as much as you can. With so many different kinds of Iftar offerings around the town, whether you have been fasting or not, what is it that you seek for? A visit to the Google Arabia office recently gave us an insight into what people in this region search the most during Ramadan. Yes, recipes - and that is assuring because Ramadan is all about gathering together as family over traditional meals. Another study by the food-ordering platform Zomato indicates that there is a considerable rise in interest on speciality dishes like Haleem, Mansaf, Kunafa etc. We therefore, bring you many special recipes gathered from different kitchen sources - from Raghad Al Safi's cookbook 'The Iraqi Table' to our culinary trip to Jordan, and from traditional family recipes garnished with memories and nostalgia from our special contributors to the winning recipe from our Bilberry recipe competition. In Dubai Dining, apart from talking about our selected culinary gems around the city, we also reveal a 'high fine dining' venue where 10 lucky winners with their plus ones will soon join us for our first ever FoodeMag #EatUp! Most of us living in this region willingly embrace the spirit of Ramadan irrespective of our religions and are united by that spirit. Debbie, our Deputy Editor, although a non-Muslim, observes fast during the holy month of Ramadan - and we ask her to share her thoughts. May our Ramadan & Summer edition of FoodeMag dxb inspire you. And Summer, we officially welcome you in our Dubai lives!
Prior permission for all editorial content and images have been obtained from contributors and featured sources. Images are sourced from authors for their respective articles unless mentioned otherwise. We have also taken measures to ensure that the info and data mentioned here are accurate. However, we take no responsibility for any factual error or for any misinterpretation, if there have been any.
[Cover picture credit: Drina Cabral,
www.eaternalzest.com]
Ishita B Saha, Editor
Ishita is obsessed with street food and learning about culinary cultures across the world. She aspires to travel the world with her family - husband and two daughters – the Z-Sisters, and dreams about writing a book on Bengali cuisine, the kind that can be passed on as a wedding trousseau to her daughters.
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Our Panel Debbie Rogers, Travel & Features Editor Debbie shares her experiences through the joys of eating and travelling, as well as the pains and gains of exercise. She is passionate about Food, Baking, Cooking, Travel and Exercise. www.coffeecakesandrunning.com
Sally Prosser, Food Sourcing Expert In her own words... ‘I am a food blogger, a keen eater… of GOOD food…. and for me that’s about using the best, freshest, tastiest ingredients cooked from scratch.’ Who else can we trust with our food sourcing and market round ups, but Sally? We are proud to have this award-winning conscientious blogger in our panel. www.mycustardpie.com
Prachi Grover, Kids Columnist Prachi declares that her blog has ‘recipes that we have tried and appreciated, cooking victories and failures, kitchen and food related DIY projects that we are working on and more'. We refers to Prachi and Sara, her 7 year old little chefling, whom we have lovingly adopted as our own contributing little expert! Prachi is a Super Ambassador of Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution Programme. www.orangekitchens.net
Our special contributors in this issue:
Dima Sharif www.dimasharif.com
Drina Cabral www.eaternalzest.com
Shafeena Yusuff Ali www.onanordinaryday.com
Lucy Forbes Taylor www.lucytaylortravels.com
Joe Mortimer www.somewhereinthebetween.org
Sidiqa Sohail www.spontaneous-euphoria. blogspot.ae
Special Travel
Columnists
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CONTENT
Markets
Edible Gifts for Ramadan
8 14
Cooking with Kids
Recipes - Popsicles
Recipes
Memories and soulful Iftars
10
Cookbook
The Iraqi Table by Raghad Al Safi
24 32
Ramadan Special
Winning recipe from Bilberry Competition
16 22
Iraqi Recipes from The Iraqi Table
Bilberry Recipe
36
Recipes
Ramadan Special
Dubai Dining Siraj, Enigma, Weslodge
40 48
Travel
A tale of two Travellers: Guatemala
Jordan
At.mosphere, Thiptara
52 60
Culinary Travel
Dubai Brunch
Cultural Travel Turkish Coffee
64
Note: Some of the articles and/or recipes in this edition may contain reference to alcohol and other ingredients without intentions to hurt any religious sentiment.
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#Markets
Edible Gifts...
love, appreciation & a little bit more! By Sally Prosser
With the Holy Month of Ramadan arriving, most of us, whether we participate in fasting or not, will accept at least one invitation to an Iftar or communal gathering. I’m always keen to show my appreciation when someone has extended his/her generous hospitality. There’s often the dilemma too about what to give to your friends, family or coworkers to mark the occasion. For a really special gift, a bit of advance planning is in order but it's totally worth it. Here’s a round-up of some of my favourite edible gifts available in the UAE, all fully road-tested of course.
Dates
Date is the obvious choice with so much ritual and tradition dedicated to this precious fruit and is also mentioned twenty times in the Holy Qur'an. Dates are highly nutritional with negligible fat and no cholesterol, packed full of potassium for growth and muscle building, magnesium to help regulate blood pressure, and provide a slow release energy boost. Bateel are specialists in dates and have a whole range of presentation sets but my favourite is this silver box inscribed with a Ramadan greeting containing dates stuffed with dried fruits and nuts. [Bateel has branches throughout the Emirates and an online store at www.bateel.com] Team FoodeMag’s market loot: Fresh dates from the supermarket aisles if you haven’t been lucky enough to pick from the many date trees lining the Dubai streets (Note: there’s a permitted time period and season when one can actually pick from these trees, otherwise its not wise to do so)! There are too many varieties of dates available here and is sourced from different countries across the region. We love the idea of a bouquet basket filled with date products – Sparkling Date Drinks, date orange jams, date syrups etc. And coming from the same parent company as Bateel’s is
Jomara, a supermarket brand which was introduced in 2007 and
hollow camel figures that can be spotted in many of the
is sold over the counters and offers over twenty varieties of dates
kiosks at Dubai Duty Free. The ones that come encased in
including the famed Kholas, Sokari, Madjool and the khidri and
exquisitely carved wooden boxes make for very special gifts
a wide range of date products that can go into our fancy ‘Date’
not only for those who are searching for unique finds in
bouquet basket.
Chocolates
Supermarket aisles are packed full of brightly coloured confections but not all of them are speciality chocolates. I’ve savoured the speciality chocolates of artisan chocolatiers Cocosia many times and can vouch for how divine they are. Their range for Ramadan includes chocolates with motifs including crescent moons, exquisite tiny renderings of a mosque, dates, camels and Ramadan greetings in English or Arabic calligraphy. You can order personalised chocolates too. A nice touch is to have the host’s name engraved on one (this is also perfect for teachers’ ‘Thank You’ gifts). The service is very quick and Cocosia will usually create your bespoke chocolates within 24 hours.
Dubai but also for those who are lactose intolerant – camel milk has shown to have many health benefits. Al Nassma chocolates are sold at The Majlis Dubai, the first camel milk cafe, you can order Al Nassma online at www.al-nassma. com.
Raw Honey
The Sidr tree is mentioned four times in the Holy Quran and hence is considered sacred. The healing qualities of honey are also documented and honey made by bees foraging for nectar from the Sidr tree is particularly prized. The nutritional and health-giving properties are lessened or destroyed by heat-treatments which most
[Cocosia is located in Al Barsha, Dubai and has an online shop at
commercial honeys are subjected to. The jars that line
www.cocosia.ae]
the supermarket shelves resemble honey-flavoured syrup as they have been treated in this way. It’s worth
Team FoodeMag’s market loot: What about savouring
seeking out a specialist provider of raw honey for taste
some chocolates made with camel milk? Al Nassma is the
and nutritional benefits.
region’s first and finest camel milk chocolates and offers a whole range – bars in several flavours: whole milk, nuts
My favourite is Balqees who, work with a dedicated
and cocoa 70% (dark), Arabia (with a mix of Arabian spices
cooperative of beekeepers in Yemen to produce very
such as cardamom and cinnamon), macadamia orange and
high-quality raw honey, many from mono-floral (single
dates; Camel Caravan, with macadamia nut and honey
source) nectar from remote areas of countryside.
cream filling; the finest pralines as well as their signature Images: Sally Prosser; Balqees image provided by Balqees
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#Markets
A single jar makes a luxurious gift, and I particularly like their fusion range especially the raw honey studded with Madagascan vanilla beans. Balqees Honey sell red velvet gift boxes all year round containing smaller jars of a few varieties, which make perfect presents at this time of year. [Balqees has honey kiosks in many locations in the UAE and you can order online at www.balqees.com]
in Arjan/Barsha sells jars of raw honeycomb produced by their own bees. Their honeycomb is completely untouched and pure and their website claims – ‘A thin layer of our honey can also be applied as a face mask, beats everything available in the shops!’ However, during the summer months they can only sell the pure Honey with out the Comb. You can order online at www. greenheartuae.com
When guests are in town, a visit to Wafi Gourmet is always in order to marvel at the delectable display of food especially the delicate Arabic sweets. From small boxes of handmade biscuits and baklava to lavish baskets of assorted pastries, these little morsels always get a rave reception as gifts. Not to forget the coloured marzipan in the shape of fruits usually bring big smiles to children’s faces too! [Wafi Gourmet has shops in Dubai Mall and Wafi Mall. More details on www.wafigourmet.com] Team FoodeMag’s market loot: Al Samadi Sweets, originally established in Lebanon in 1872, have their outlets in Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah and Al Ain, and not only offers a wide range of traditional Lebanese and Arabic sweets, stiffed dried fruits but also cakes and pastries. The sweet shop is a treasure trove for the senses – huge trays filled with different types of Arabic sweets – Baklavas, thin noodles of Vermicelli studded Kunafas, or the Turkish desserts Bülbül Yuvasi prepared with baked phyllo dough having a hollow centre and stuffed with pistachios that resemble the ‘nightingale’s nest’. Other sweet bakes include different kinds of Katayefs, Mamouls and Shoaybiat with Cream. But our
,,
favourite pick here is the creamy Hilawat al Jeban dipped in sugar syrup! You can order online at www.alsamadisweets.ae
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Images on this page: Provided
its depiction in cave paintings in Spain. Historians make reference to it being used in Georgia where it was packed to help people’s journeys into the afterlife. In ancient Egypt, it was used to sweeten up cooking and was also used to embalm the dead, and as an offering to the Egyptian in ancient India as well. Honey is also believed to have medicinal uses. In Hinduism, it is one of the five elixirs of immortality, while in the Jewish tradition, it is a symbol for New Year. Honey is referenced for it’s ability to provide sustenance in Buddhism and the Christian New Testament. In Islam, there is an entire chapter of the Qur’an called an-Nahl (the Bee) where Prophet Mohammad strongly recommends honey for healing purposes and as a nutritious and healthy food.
Arabic Sweets
14
The first records of honey go back to 8,000 years ago with
fertility god. There has been spiritual and therapeutic usage
Team FoodeMag’s market loot: Greenheart Organic Farms shop
Wishing You Ramadan Kareem!
Talking of Honey...
What is Honey? Honey is the nectar from the herbs and flowers that grow wild in the fields and woods. The benefits of hundreds of herbs are carried in the form of nectar in the stomach of the bee where it is subtly altered by the bee’s digestive enzymes in ways that even modern science has been unable to explain. This process creates new compounds before the honey is regurgitated in the hive, concentrated by evaporation, and stored in honeycomb. The aroma, taste and colour of honey are determined by the plants from which the bees have gathered nectar. Sunflowers, for example, give a golden yellow honey, clover gives a sweet white honey. Dark honey has a strong flavour and often has a high mineral content, while pale honey has a more delicate flavour.
Raw Honey Raw honey is one of nature’s richest super food sugar substitutes, containing over 80 different health-giving proponents. This unprocessed honey is pure, unfiltered and unheated, embodying the natural bouquet of flower pollination with a potent source of nutritional elements. All around the world, humans have for centuries, been using honey straight from the beehive. Raw honey is loaded with many essential vitamins and minerals. Vitamins A, C, D, E, K and all B-Complex Vitamins are all found in honey. It also contains many minerals.
Raw Yemeni Honey There are almost 12 of Yemeni honey produced, the most famous and expensive is from the Elb or Sidr tree - one of the trees mentioned in the Holy Qur’an. Semi nomadic beekeepers gather twice a year to collect Sidr honey in the remote desert region of Hadramout in the South Arabian Peninsula. Traditional beekeeping methods can still be seen in Yemen - use of small wood, cane or pottery hives with both stationary beekeeping, hives are placed in gardens or on house roofs. Nomadic beekeeping is also practised. The techniques of beekeeping and honey extraction have remained substantially the traditional ones, although modern methods have introduced machines and equipments. Good Yemeni honey is so highly prized that it's possession is considered as a status symbol. Being offered Yemeni honey when entering a Yemini home means that you are truly an honoured guest!
#WinningRecipe
Bilberries...
flavoured by Finnish Northern lights
Last month, FoodeMag dxb held a recipe competition and our winner Roya Tarzaban gets to enjoy a Scandinavian Dinner for 10 people worth AED 2,200 prepared by Chef Marta Yanci & FOODIAC at her own home! This amazing competition was courtesy of Bilberry.ae, and the participants had to share their creative Bilberry and Blueberry recipes with us!
Brought to you by Berryfect www.bilberry.ae
Recipe and image: Roya Tarzaban
Pistachio Crusted Lamb Chops with Blueberry Thyme Compote & Butternut Squash PurĂŠe
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Image: Roya Tarzaban
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Growing under the Northern Lights and the midnight sun in wild forests in Finland, bilberries and other berries are organic part of Scandinavian life. With Berryfect, these power packed bilberries come in easy to use individual sachets which can be added to shakes, smoothies, porridge, dressings, dips and in baking, making it ideal for a busy lifestyle. The deep purple powder adds colour, nutrients and an extra tangy taste to food. A 3 gms serving is equivalent of 30 gms of fresh berries and one complete box contains one litre of fresh picked arctic berries – and all of the bilberries' nutritionally dense parts: juice, pulp, skin and seeds are used. Moreover, Berryfect contains no additives, preservatives or sugar.
I used Bilberry powder and Blueberries in this recipe to create a delicious sweet and savoury fusion of Middle-Eastern zalatat raggi wa jeben ~ and European flavours. The Bilberry Watermelon and Cheese Salad powder was mixed with Arabic spices and used as a marinade for the lamb, while the blueberries were cooked to create a thick sauce to glaze and pour over the grilled lamb.
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Recipe & Image:Image: Ritu Chaturvedi Debbie Rogers
Serves 4
Ingredients Lamb Chops 1 bone-in rack of lamb (French-trimmed, and cut into 8 individual chops) ¼ cup pistachios 2 tsp 7-spice mix (a blend of allspice, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and rose buds) 1 tsp dried thyme (or 2 sprigs of fresh thyme leaves minced) 1 Bilberry packet* 1 garlic clove, finely minced 2 tbs red wine vinegar 2 tbs olive oil 1 tbs sea salt 1 tsp fresh ground pepper Blueberry Compote 250 gms frozen blueberries (you may use fresh, with liquid and sweetness adjustments) 1 tbs butter 1 shallot, minced 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tbs brown sugar 1 cup red wine (you may use non-alcoholic cooking wine. I used a combination of Port and Sherry for their sweetness)* ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 4 sprigs of fresh thyme ½ tsp sea salt 1 tsp cornstarch and water slurry
•
While still hot, pass the squash through a food mill or fine sieve over a glass bowl. • Whip in the butter and salt, discarding the sprig of thyme. • Keep warm. Cooking the Lamb chops • Remove the lamb chops and pat dry, discarding any leftover marinade. • Brush on some oil, and sprinkle with extra salt and pepper on each side. • Heat a grill pan over high heat until almost smoking, add the chops and sear for about 3-4 minutes. Flip them over and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Cook to the desired doneness (for medium to medium-well, a thermometer inserted reads between 57ºC - 62ºC). • Remove the lamb chops from the grill, brush with the warm blueberry glaze, and dip them into the crushed pistachios. • Serve the lamp chops over the butternut squash puree, and top each chop with a generous helping of blueberry compote.
Butternut Squash Purée 500 gms butternut squash, peeled and cubed 2 tbs butter 1 sprig of thyme 1 tsp salt
For the Lamb Chops • In a large bowl, whisk all the ingredients of the marinade together. Add the lamb chops, and mix to coat evenly. The chops will turn into a vibrant purple from the bilberries. Cover and let them marinate in the fridge for at least 1-2 hours. • Heat up a small pan, and dry-toast the pistachios for a few minutes until fragrant. Set aside to cool and get crisp. Place in a pestle and mortar (or plastic bag) and crush some to get a combination of fine grains and medium pieces. Pour into a bowl and set aside. • Meanwhile, prepare the compote and the puree. For the Blueberry Compote • In a small, non-reactive pot over medium-low heat, add the butter, shallots, and sugar, and sweat until soft and they start to caramelize, about 5-8 minutes. Add in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about a minute. • Add in the wine and bring to a simmer for a few minutes • Add in the frozen blueberries, balsamic vinegar, salt, and thyme sprigs. The blueberries will release their water content. Bring the mixture to a low simmer, and cook for 15-20 minutes, crushing some of the blueberries along the way. • When the sauce has reduced by half, add in the cornstarch slurry and cook for another minute until the sauce is thick and coats the back of a spoon. • Turn off the heat, cover, and keep warm. For the Butternut Squash Purée • Melt the butter with a sprig of thyme, and set aside to infuse. • Steam the cubed squash for 8-10 minutes until fork tender.
*Recipe may contain reference to alcohol and other ingredients without any intentions to hurt any sentiment.
Method
#CookingWithKids
Popsicle Playdates... for sizzling hot summers By Prachi Grover
When the temperature outside hits 45ºC and summer vacations are about to begin, what can our little readers do? Moreover, we are thinking of a very special way not only to treat these little ones, but also to show appreciation for those who will be first timers to fast during this Ramadan. Yes, we are talking popsicles! Stock up the freezer with loads of popsicles, our summertime staple and by sprinkling them with nuts and dry fruits, we can turn them as healthy as we want. And that is exactly my little chefling’s idea of a perfect summer vacation - licking and slurping, wiping off ice cream moustaches and making a perfect mess on the floor. Come, join my little chefling Sara who loves to have her friends over for ‘Popsicle Playdates’ through out the summer!
Breakfast Popsicles
Beach Time Popsicles
Summer Time Popsicles
Eid-Al-Fitr Popsicles
Let’s go – P O P S I C L E S – popsicles!
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Breakfast Popsicles...
(yoghurt stone fruit and granola) Makes 6
You will need
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There is a right popsicle for every meal and moment – one that you can eat for breakfast (yes, you read it right!), one for when you get back home after playing in the blazing hot sun, another one for when it is too hot to go to the beach but your heart really wants to and finally, the one to celebrate Eid-Al-Fitr with all your loved ones.
24 tbsp of full fat yoghurt or greek yoghurt 3 stone fruits (we used a mix of peaches, nectarines and plums or you can try a combination of berries) a handful of granola honey to add and to drizzle 6 popsicle sticks and moulds
Method • • •
Eid-Al-Fitr is an important day for the Muslims that marks the end of the month-long Ramadan. So here’s to my favorite quote in her room, for it has everything s
• • •
4 ways to make popsicles if you don’t have popsicle moulds:
•
Disposable paper or plastic cups Silicone muffin cases Ice cube trays Small yoghurt containers
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1. 2. 3. 4.
•
Whisk yoghurt in a large bowl. Chop the fruits. Remember to use a child friendly knife and ask for help! Combine the fruits and the yoghurt. Taste. Add a little honey to sweeten it. Fill popsicle moulds with the above mix leaving enough space for granola. Take the granola (about a teaspoon for each of your popsicles) and drizzle some honey. This will help the granola to stick together. Add tiny amounts of granola into each mould and put it into the freezer. After about 10 minutes, place popsicle sticks into each one. Freeze for at least 6 hours or overnight.
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Enjoy your Breakfast Popsicles any time of the day. Why not try a breakfast popsicle for dinner?
19
#CookingWithKids
Popsicle Playdates
...continued
Enjoy your Beach Time Popsicles at home when the temperature outside soars to 45ºC or more and you can’t get to the beach!
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Beach Time Popsicles... (Mango, coconut milk and toasted coconut) Makes 6
You will need 1 ½ cups of coconut milk 3 ripe mangoes handful of dry coconut slivers or desiccated coconut 6 popsicle sticks and moulds
• • •
Method • • •
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Peel and chop mangoes into tiny pieces (always use a child friendly knife). Ask mum/dad to help you blend the mango pieces into a purée. Add coconut milk into a blender, and ask mom/dad to whizz it again.
• •
Pour the puréed mango and coconut mix into popsicle moulds. After about 10 minutes, place popsicle sticks into each one. While the popsicles get ready, chop dry coconut slivers and toast them in a pan on low heat until they are golden brown. Let them cool and keep them ready for coating the popsicles once they are frozen. If using desiccated coconut, simply toast. Freeze for at least 6 hours or overnight. Once the popsicles are ready, sprinkle and coat the ends of the popsicles with toasted coconut. Make sure you get the popsicles coated all around.
Summer Cooler Popsicles... (watermelon, mint and rock salt) You will need half of a juicy watermelon loads of fresh mint leaves 1 tsp of rock salt (or more) 6 popsicle sticks and moulds
Method • • • • • •
Chop the watermelon into pieces and ask mum or dad to run them in a blender. Tear the leaves of mint into small bits and add to the watermelon purée. Add rock salt and give it a good mix. Taste and adjust the salt. Pour the watermelon cooler into popsicle moulds and put them into the refrigerator. After about 10 minutes, place popsicle sticks into each one. Freeze for at least 6 hours or overnight.
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Makes 6
Enjoy your Summer Cooler Popsicles whenever the sun leaves you hot and parched!
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• Always remember to use a child-friendly knife! • After about 10 minutes of putting the popsicle mixture in the moulds and into the freezer, place popsicle sticks into each of the mould. It will be easier for the stick to “stand”, now that the popsicle is semi frozen.
Images: Prachi Grover
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Ramadan
Special Although Dates are available the year around, they take on a greater role during Ramadan when Muslims across the world break their Ramadan fast (Iftar) with dates. Research has also proven that having dates after fasting has great nutritional and health benefits as they are easy to digest and gives an immediate boost to the energy.
Images: Prachi Grover
#CookingWithKids
Popsicle Playdates
...continued
Eid-Al-Fitr Popsicles... (date, walnut, banana and cocoa) Makes 6
You will need 1 ripe banana 8 dates 8 walnuts* 4 tbsp of good quality unsweetened cocoa 1 cup full fat milk 6 popsicle sticks and moulds * Recipe contains nuts and if you are trying out this recipe, make sure you don't have a nut allergy!
Method • • • • • • • • • •
Dates are a staple fruit of the Middle East and have been cultivated for many thousands of years. There are different varieties of dates available in the region and they are primarily sold fresh, when in season, semi - dried all year round, and as date syrup often referred to as 'dibs'. Dried dates can be eaten as is, can be pitted (destoned) or one can find them pitted and stuffed with fillings such as almonds, walnuts, pecans, cream cheese, tahini, candied orange and lemon peel.
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Dates
Peel and chop the banana. De-seed the dates and chop them too. Smash 4 walnuts with a back of spoon or with a rolling pin. In a blender, combine the bananas, dates, smashed walnuts, cocoa powder and half a cup of milk. Ask mom or dad to help you blend till it looks like a thick purée. Add the rest of the milk and whizz again. Now, it will appear more like a smoothie. Pour the mix into popsicles moulds. After about 10 minutes, place popsicle sticks into each one. While the popsicles get ready, smash the other four walnuts and keep it ready for coating the popsicles once they are frozen. Freeze for at least 6 hours or overnight. Once the popsicles are ready, sprinkle and coat the ends of the popsicles with the walnut powder. Make sure you get the popsicles coated all around.
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Indulge in some sweet nutrients during this IFTAR!
Dates are used in cooking in both sweet and savoury dishes and hopefully these Date Popsicles will add a bit of sweet deliciousness to sign off your Iftar spread at home and cool you down in this sweltering summer heat. The most decadent dates tend to be those dipped in chocolate or converted into a sparkling date juice for the occasional treat!
23
#CookBook
Raghad Al Safi: The Iraqi Table By Ishita B Saha
'The Iraqi Table', a cookbook by Raghad Al Safi opens our eyes (and our taste buds) to the richness of delicious Iraqi cuisine, by celebrating its traditions, culture and heritage. Like many other cuisines from the Middle East, Iraqi cuisine too has been influenced by cultural mixes and its political history. From the ancient Akkadians, Assyrians and Babylonians through to the Ottoman Empire, Iraqi cuisine has a vast heritage, and that is what Raghad attempts to showcase in this book through delicious recipes and storytelling and achieves that successfully and brilliantly. The book is divided into different sections - soups, appetisers and salads, street food, afternoon snacks, meat and fish, rice, kubba, stews and tashreeb, desserts and pastries and finally the more traditional variety of dense and gooey Arabic sweets - halawa. While doing so, she not only brings out the essence of Iraqi culture (for example, afternoon snacks underlines the get-togethers with friends and the binding union of people) but also subtly reinforces the need to preserve the heritage of a culinary culture in the face of world homogenisation and multiculturalism. The recipes have been penned down in a simple way, photographed brilliantly by Murrindie Frew and styled by the renowned Fiona Archibold. Each recipe has a narration that will give the reader a glimpse into the dish, for example, on the Samak Masgouf which is considered Iraq's National dish:
Samak Masgouf ~ Iraq's National Dish. From 'The Iraqi Table'
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The Iraqi Table is published by Motivate and is available in leading bookstores and at www.booksarabia.com.
Those fortunate enough to enjoy a twilight stroll among the outdoor restaurants lining the banks of the Tigris River will be tempted by the many eateries serving this fish dish. Noses are lured by the aroma of burning logs; eyes light up at the sight of dancing flames; ears listen intently at the crackling blaze; mouths salivate and hands gleefully rub together in anticipation of the delicious fish... In this edition, we take inspiration from the recipes that the author associates with Ramadan and immerse ourselves in its essence through Raghad's words:
Whenever we celebrate in Iraq – whether birthdays or weddings, Christmas or Eid – you can be sure of one thing: there will be plenty of food. From the beginnings of civilization in what was Mesopotamia (today’s Iraq, the north-east of Syria and parts of Turkey and Iran), people have been cooking and eating delicious recipes... Mouth-watering menus and feasts fit for a king accompany celebrations in Iraq. During Ramadan, the nightly fast is broken (traditionally) with the yogurt drink, leban and a few dates. The Iftar (after sunset) meal, however, is more substantial and typically includes lentil soup or lamb and herb soup to start, followed by zalata, then a warming bowl of tashreeb, stew and carrot rice. Other Iraqi staples enjoyed during the holy month include kubba. Sweet treats for dessert include burma and datli or zarda, baqlawat foggor and pomegranate jelly. During Eid, Muslims greet one another by saying ‘Ayamkom Saeeda’ or ‘Eid Mubarak’ (meaning ‘Blessed Eid’). Eid-al-Fitr is a time when many Iraqis return to their breakfast routine of eating gaymer and kahi. The lunchtime spread is likely to resemble the one offered at my grandmother’s and features qouzi and a variety of margas... The ritual of breaking bread was not just symbolic in my childhood, it was literal. It was at my family’s Iftar meals – where the myriad menu items also included offerings from Turkmen, Christian Iraqis and Jewish Iraqis – that I experienced a microcosm of my country’s diversity. While I can still taste the spicy uroog lamb patties and smell the cardamom and aniseed-infused kleitcha cookies being shared amongst all gathered at the table for Eid, what I remember best is the way that food truly united people – irrespective of ethnicity, religion, region or even social status...
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On a different wok... Our chit chat with Chef Vikas Khanna recentlly gave us emotional goosebumps - what an epic novel his new book 'Utsav' is and it revealed a different perspective of the man who has been glorified by the media for his looks as much as his culinary talent. Never have we come across a culinary book on India with such vivid detailing on the festivals and the people celebrating them. It has taken 12 years of work and probably the only book which doesn't leave any region of India in its representation. Only 20 books have been printed right now, with customised copies for dignitaries like the Pope, Barack Obama, the Indian Prime Minister and a few others. Do hop into www.foodemag.com for the video.
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#Recipe
...from The Iraqi Table zalatat raggi wa jeben ~ Watermelon and Cheese Salad Serves 2-4
Ingredients ½ small watermelon ¾ cup cubed halloumi or feta cheese 2–3 tbsp rose water fresh mint or basil, to taste
Method • • •
Peel the watermelon and cut into even bite-sized rectangular pieces. Layer between two similarly sized cubes of cheese. Sprinkle with rose water and garnish with fresh mint or basil.
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The beautiful layering of the sweet pink fruit and creamy white cheese make this salad almost too pretty to eat...almost. But don’t let appearances stop you. It would be such a shame to miss out on the equally delectable combination of sweet and salty, light and filling ingredients that make this capresestyle salad a favourite for many Iraqi on sweltering nights (including my mother, who counts it among her favourites).
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zalatat al jezar bil zebeeb wel joz ~ Carrots with Walnuts & Sultanas Serves 4-6
Ingredients 3 tbsp olive oil ¼ cup canned chickpeas 1 clove garlic 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp tahini salt and pepper 3 tbsp coconut oil. to taste 4 tbsp coarsely chopped walnuts 4 large carrots ¼-½ cup boiling water ¼ tsp cumin 3 tbsp sultana raisins 1 tbsp chopped coriander
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Method • •
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In a blender, combine the olive oil, chickpeas, garlic cloves, lemon juice, tahini and salt and pepper to a smooth consistency, to make the dressing. In a skillet heat the coconut oil, fry the walnuts and set aside. Peel the carrots and slice thickly. In the same oil, sauté the carrots for 3–4 minutes and add the boiling water (¼ to ½ cup) and cumin. Cook uncovered until the carrots absorb the water, stirring occasionally. The carrots should still be firm and a bit crunchy. To serve, cover the plate with the dressing and arrange the carrots and walnuts with orange zest, sultana raisins and coriander on top in layers. For a tasty variation, add roast pumpkin instead of carrots. Brush the pumpkin pieces with coconut oil and roast for 15 minutes in the oven before adding the raisins, coriander, orange zest and walnuts.
zalatat al jezar bil zebeeb wel joz ~ Carrots with Walnuts & Sultanas
Growing up, this salad was one of my grandma’s specialties. She would often recount her childhood in the city of Mosul and how this warming winter staple – one of her favourites – worked just as well accompanying rice or meat dishes, as it did simply served with a slice of sammoun bread. While rich in colour and flavour, it is deceptively easy to make. I’ve simplified it further by using canned chickpeas, but soaking your own would also work.
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As an alternative, you could also substitute the carrots with cooked pumpkin (cube and coat in coconut oil before roasting in a hot oven for 20–25 minutes). My grandmother might not recognize that version of 'carrot salad’ but I like to imagine she’d appreciate that a variation of that muchloved recipe of her youth still survives.
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#Recipe
...from The Iraqi Table
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There are two popular methods for preparing manti. Some prefer boiling the dumplings, but I like to bake them. As well as leaving the dough with an unforgettable contrast between crunchy crust and velvety filling, its fresh-outof-the-oven aroma takes me back to the intimate moments shared with Om Anoosh, our Armenian cook, who made them for my family when I was growing up. I know she would be proud.
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Method • •
• •
manti Serves 4
Ingredients Dough 2 cups flour 1 tsp salt 5 tbsp olive oil 1 egg ½ - ¾ cup flour for rolling Filling 500 gms ground beef or lamb 1 chopped onion 2 tbsp oil 1⁄2 tsp paprika pinch of chilli (optional) 3 tbsp parsley (optional) salt and pepper to taste butter as required
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• Cooking Broth 3 cups chicken stock 2–3 tbsp tomato paste salt and pepper to taste
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Yogurt Sauce 1 ½ cup Greek yogurt 2 cloves crushed garlic salt and pepper to taste
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Garnish 2 tbsp olive oil sumac and chilli to taste
• •
Preheat the oven to 175°C / 350°F / Gas Mark 4. To make the dough, place the our in a bowl and form a well in the centre. Whisk the eggs, salt, olive oil and water, and add to the well in the flour. Combine ingredients to form a dough and knead until smooth. Cover the dough with a tea towel and set aside for 30 minutes. To make the filling, combine the meat, onion, oil, paprika, chilli, parsley (if desired), salt and pepper. Roll the dough at and cut into 4-centimetre squares. Place one teaspoon of filling into the centre of each and use your fingers to pinch the ends to seal into a small dumpling. Place the dumplings on a greased baking tray and lightly butter the top of each shell. Cook in a preheated oven for about 45 minutes or until golden brown. To make the cooking broth, bring the chicken stock, tomato paste, salt and pepper to a boil and simmer in a saucepan. When dumplings are cooked, ladle broth over the top. Return the pans to the oven and bake for an additional 5–10 minutes or until most of the broth is absorbed. To make the yogurt sauce, combine the yogurt, garlic and salt. To serve, remove the manti from the oven, top with yogurt sauce and garnish with sumac, chilli and olive oil.
qouzi ~ Stuffed Lamb on Rice Ingredients Stuffing ¼ cup vegetable oil 3 chopped onions 1 kg cubed lamb 10 cups water 5 cups rice 1 cup raisins 1 cup shelled peas ¼ cup baharat spices* 1 cup pistachios salt and pepper, to taste Lamb 1 whole lamb (approximately 10 kg) ¼ cup olive oil salt and pepper, to taste 10 whole cloves 10 whole cardamom pods ¼ cup baharat spices You will also need a trussing needle and twine
*Baharat Spices
½ tbsp turmeric 1 tbsp cardamom ½ tbsp cinnamon ½ tsp fresh ground pepper ½ tsp ground angelica ½ tsp nutmeg ½ tsp cumin ½ tsp coriander seeds Mix all spices together.
Method •
•
•
For the stuffing, in 2 tablespoons of oil, lightly sauté the onions until soft and set them aside. In a new frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of oil and fry cubed lamb until cooked, then set it aside. Boil 3 cups of water, add the rice and salt. Bring to a boil for 2–3 minutes (until rice is tender), drain and set aside. Mix raisins, peas, baharat spices and pistachios, with the onion, lamb and rice. To prepare the lamb, rub the lamb with salt (inside and out) and wash well. Once the lamb is cleaned, rub with salt, pepper and oil. Make small incisions throughout the flesh and stud with the whole cardamoms and cloves. Stuff the lamb with the prepared stuffing and stitch it shut with the trussing needle and twine. Rub the spices over the outside of the lamb and cook on high heat for 1 hour. Then reduce heat to low and continue cooking for 6 hours, turning halfway through.
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Serves 10-12
When it comes to cooking qouzi, the preparation itself is an extravagant one – a process requiring planning, precision and patience. It is the feast prepared for the first day of Eid, the meal cooked at engagements to mark approaching marriages, and the symbol to signify that someone is a very special – and welcome – guest in your home. Whether it’s wrapped in banana leaves and pulled from a traditional tanoor oven; or a more modest rack of lamb filling your kitchen with the unmistakable scent of cooking meat fused with pistachios, raisins, turmeric and saffron, nothing sings celebration more than freshly prepared qouzi. Abundant and spectacular, if there ever was a meal that encapsulated the Iraqi approach of using food to nourish both your body and your soul – this lamb dish is it. Abundant and spectacular, if there ever was a meal that encapsulated the Iraqi approach of using food to nourish both your body and your soul – this lamb dish is it.
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#Recipe
...from The Iraqi Table
kleitcha ~ Iraqi Cookies
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Iraqis of all faiths mark their feasts with these delicious buttery biscuits. For Muslims the sweet scent wafting through the house, just begging to be consumed with an Istikan of sweet tea, signifies the arrival of Eid, while many Iraqi Christians celebrate Easter with the same treat. Although the ingredients for kleitcha are generally the same, there is something magical about these biscuits, which allows the cook to impart a bit of their identity into each one. In Iraq a housewife’s status is judged by the strength of her kleitcha – and my version will be sure to impress your guests! Although these domed cookies were originally shaped using small bowls as moulds, today, wooden casts are often used. While the unique patterns of each mould are meant to hint at the contents inside and make it easy to identify the filling of each cookie, I suggest you taste them all – just to be sure there are no mistakes.
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Alternately, for a quicker – and easier (but equally appetizing) – option, date kleitchas can be made by rolling the dough out onto a at surface, placing the date mixture (about half a centimetre thick) on top, rolling the dough into a tube and cutting it into two-centimetre diagonal pieces, brushing it with egg, sprinkling it with sesame seeds, and baking.
kleitcha ~ Iraqi Cookies Ingredients Dough 5 cups plain flour 1 cup vegetable oil ¾ cup butter 1 cup water 3 tbsp powdered milk 2 eggs 2 tbsp active dry yeast 1 tbsp sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp ground cardamom pinch of nutmeg ½ tsp ground aniseed 1 tbsp whole nigella seeds Date Filling 1 cup pitted dates 1 tsp ground cardamom 1 tbsp melted butter
Method •
• •
•
•
For the dough, combine all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and knead with your hands to a smooth, firm consistency. Cover the dough and leave until slightly risen (approximately 30 minutes). For the date filling, finely chop the dates. Add cardamom and butter and mix by hand to form a coarse paste. For the walnut filling, use a mortar and pestle to crush walnuts, icing sugar and cardamom together until mixed well. Add water to form a coarse paste. (Rose water can replace the cardamom. In this instance, mix the rose water into the crushed walnut and icing sugar, and omit the water.) For the coconut filling, soak the coconut in condensed milk for one hour, then drain. Mix the coconut, icing sugar, butter and cardamom. Add water to form a coarse paste. For the sesame filling, use a mortar and pestle to crush sesame, icing sugar and cardamom until well combined. Add water to form a coarse paste.
jelly rumman ~ Pomegranate Jelly Serves 2-4
Ingredients 4 cups fresh pomegranate juice 1 tbsp sugar 3 tsp cornstarch or 3 sheets of gelatine 2 tsp fresh pomegranate seeds
Method • •
• •
In a medium-sized pot, heat three cups of pomegranate juice and stir in the sugar. Dissolve the cornstarch or the gelatine in the remaining one-cup of pomegranate juice. Mix well, then add it to the mixture on the heat slowly, stirring constantly for 10 minutes or until it becomes thick and creamy. Pour the jelly-like mixture into individual containers and chill for at least six hours. Decorate with pomegranate seeds and serve.
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Makes 50
In Iraq, people are passionate about pomegranate and try to include it in as many recipes as possible – like this fresh, flavoursome, jelly. Though demanding, the proper process of peeling a pomegranate to obtain the seeds required in this dish will afford it the respect it deserves... . A delicious dessert which elevates the ordinary by adding an elegant edge. A truly original Iraqi dish that’s almost too pretty to eat...almost.
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#Recipe
...from The Iraqi Table
shakarlama ~ Iraqi Shortbread with Cardamoms Serves 2-4
Ingredients 1 cup butter or ghee 2 egg whites 1 cup confectioner’s sugar 1 tsp cardamom powder 2 cups flour 1 tsp baking powder ¾ cup toasted almonds pinch of salt 2 tbsp rose water
Method • •
•
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• • •
Preheat an oven to 120°C / 250°F / Gas Mark 1 to 2. Mix the sugar, egg whites and cardamom powder together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, mix the butter/ghee, our, rose water, baking powder and salt, and stir well. Combine the two mixtures until it becomes dough. Knead well for 5–10 minutes until the dough doesn’t stick to your hands. Roll the dough into small balls an inch across. Flatten them slightly and press an almond into the centre of each. Place the rounds onto a greased baking tray. Bake in the oven for approximately 15 minutes, making sure that the cookies do not change colour. Remove the cookies from the oven. When they have cooled, carefully lift them o the baking tray. Handle delicately as they crumble easily. Serve with coffee or hot Iraqi tea. Use 1½ cups of flour and ½ cup of coarsely chopped pistachios for a flavourful alternative.
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The classic English childhood rhyme asking ‘what are little girls made of?’ also contains the precise description of these cookies. After all, just like the lyrical jingle that describes pigtailed primary school princesses, these buttery shortbread biscuits, served at births, weddings and other celebratory occasions, are also made of ‘sugar (shakar in Arabic) and spice (exotic cardamom) and all things nice’.
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The Iraqi Table is published by Motivate and is available in leading bookstores and at booksarabia.com.
Ramadan
Special
Image: Drina Cabral
#RamadanSpecial
Ramadan Moments...
from my past & present.
We caught up with a few special women this Ramadan on their memories and thoughts that mark this auspicious month. The common thread binding all of them... they are all successful women entrepreneurs in the food business. Shafeena Yusuff Ali from India, is the CEO of Tablez Food Company, which has 30 restaurants under its group including the renowned home grown concept - Bloomsbury's; Sidiqa Sohail is half-Emirati and half-Pakistani, and is the MD and owner of boutique cafe cum bakeshop Spontiphoria in Al Wasl Square in Jumeirah; Dima Sharif is an artisan chef, avid food blogger and the author of the recently launched Palestinian cookbook Plated Heirlooms and has her own line of Organic Mooneh (Pantry) Essentials retailing from selected speciality stores; Arva Ahmed originally hails from Hyderabad and is the founder of Frying Pan Adventures, the first food tour in this region that explores the culinary back streets of Dubai and makes them look fashionable enough to be featured in the CNN, amongst other international media channels.
By Shafeena Yusuff Ali
Jeeraka Kanji ~ Cumin Flavoured Rice Soup Serves 4
Ingredients
1 cup Basmati rice ½ tbs fenugreek seeds 4 tsp ghee 3 tsp cumin ½ a coconut, grated 1 and ½ tsp turmeric powder salt to taste 1 garlic pod (optional)
Method • •
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Make a paste of coconut, cumin and garlic. Keep aside. Boil rice with fenugreek and turmeric powder in enough water to immerse the rice completely. Add some more water If the soup looks dry. Add the coconut, cumin and garlic paste, and mix.
Ramadan has always been a time for patience, spiritual reflection, worship and spending time with family in devotion. Those feelings have only intensified over the years and today I try to germinate them in my screen-addicted children. Every year, I also learn while I teach them to be kinder than the previous year, not just to the society, but also to those in one’s family and home, and more importantly to one's self. This recipe combines my Ramadan of the past to this present time, and I remember when this flavorful soup would fill me up in the nights, especially when I would not want to eat much. Each house makes the classic Kerala dishes differently and this one in particular, is my mother in law’s recipe - spicier and has more flavor than the usual Jeeraka Kanji. I am blessed indeed to have a big family - to love and be loved by.
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For me, Ramadan is a time when things slow down and we really get to enjoy spending quality time with family and friends in an atmosphere that is special. The rest of the year we are constantly running errands and are on a tight schedule but in Ramadan, all this takes a back seat. So quite often, the nicest memories are made during Ramadan. It is also a time where people really get creative in the kitchen. For me, I learnt how to cook in Ramadan when I was 16 years old - somehow I had enough time to try out a new recipe every afternoon after school. I've put all those recipes together in a hand-written scrapbook and I still refer back to them from time to time, for example, when I feel like making potato croquettes or a salami risotto!
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By Sidiqa Sohail
CupCakaron ~ a Hybrid Cupcake & Macaron Serves 4
Ingredients
60 gms unsalted butter, softened 60 gms caster sugar 1 egg 60 gms self raising flour 1 tbsp milk 1 tbsp rosewater For the frosting 60 gms unsalted butter, softened 120 gms icing sugar 1 tbsp milk pink gel food coloring To decorate: 6 pistachios or raspberry macarons 1 tbsp pistachios, chopped
Method • • • • • •
Preheat the oven to 180ºC and line a cupcake tin with 6 liners. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and mix thoroughly. Next, sift in the flour and stir. Add the rosewater and milk and stir thoroughly. Pour the batter into the cupcake liners and bake for 12 minutes.
For the frosting • Beat the butter and sugar until well combined and add the milk. • Beat on high speed for 5-7 minutes until mixture has doubled in volume • Add coloring to desired shade and then spoon into a piping bag with a star tip nozzle. • Frost the cupcakes with the frosting and place one macaron in the center of each one. • Next, sprinkle over the chopped pistachios.
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#RamadanSpecial Perhaps, a less popular soup than its counterpart - the red lentil soup, this is a much more interesting and a deep earthy-flavoured soup that is brought to life with the freshness of lime and coriander. This soup comes from the cuisine of the villagers who were known to cook whatever was produced in their lands and they could barter with their neighbouring villagers. As is typical of any villagers’ food, simple ingredients make extraordinary flavours in this hearty soup.
By Dima Sharif
Shorabet Adas Binni ~ Brown Lentil Soup with Fresh Herbs and Lime Serves 4
Ingredients
1 cup brown lentils, washed and drained 1 medium onion, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, crushed 8 cups chicken broth or broth made from the bones 1 tsp cumin seeds 4 cardamom pods 3 cloves 4 black pepper corns 1 bay leaf 2 small cinnamon sticks salt & pepper to taste 1 bunch, finely chopped coriander a dash of extra virgin olive oil toasted pine nuts for garnish
Method •
Image & Recipe provided
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While normally the lunch would be the main family meal, during the Holy month, the main meal shifts to early evening at sunset. My most vivid memories of Ramadan include that moment before the Maghrib prayer was called out and our evening breakfast started. Usually, that is a very tranquil time of the day, with my mum putting the final touches on the plated foods, garnishing with toasted pine nuts, herbs and we would be carrying the plates over to the dining table - one of us would be pouring the soup into the individual soup plates. The best thing about Ramadan table is the variety of food, not necessarily in huge quantities, but always the plethora of options to cater to each one’s preferences and tastes. We’d all sit at the table, mostly quiet at that time. Once the Athan was heard, we’d start eating and chatting - we would be talking about our day, what had been good and significant that day. My parents loved listening to us and would give advise - since we wouldn't be going anywhere and were seated for the meal, we would most likely listen to what they had to say! I must say that the Ramadan table was a great opportunity for making family connection and that did not only transpire to just us, and in fact, extended to the visitors as well. At a Ramadan table, people are more eager to share, to connect and to converse and somehow it felt like people listened more.
Images: Provided by authors; Image of Jeeraka Kanji - Sayana Rahiman, www.mymouthisfull.com
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In the pressure cooker, heat the oil and add the crushed garlic and chopped onions. Cook until translucent but not browned. Add the washed lentils and stir to mix. Season with salt & black pepper. Pour the broth over and stir scraping the bottom of pot. Add the spice pouch and stir again. Bring to a gentle boil, seal with the lid and cook for 15 minutes. If you are not using the pressure cooker, then cook until the lentils are soft adjusting liquid levels as necessary. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat 2 tsp of olive oil in a small frying pan and stir fry the coriander with 1 clove of finely chopped garlic, only until the coriander is wilted. Add the mixture to the soup and stir well. Serve hot garnished with toasted pine nuts and alongside a wedge of lime and a piece of toasted spicy coriander and garlic bread. For the toasted spicy coriander and garlic bread: Toast some pita bread wedges or disks until crisp. In a small skillet, heat 2 tsp of olive oil in a small frying pan along with 1 crushed clove of garlic and 1-2 finely chopped green chillies and sauté until translucent. Add 2 tbsp finely coriander and stir-fry until the coriander is wilted. Spread the mixture over the toasted bread and serve with the soup.
My fondest and my favourite memory and of Ramadan however, is that everyday about one and a half hour before Iftar, my dad would take us in the car and we would go to the market to buy fresh bread, fresh atayef disks and a fresh bowl of hummus and falafel. If you have been fasting, the last few hours are the hardest - you are tired, hungry and could use any distraction from those feelings that you get. And I just loved that daily trip to the market - we talked, and somehow because you are fasting, your sense of smell becomes so sharp, you actually smell the freshness of the bread. The aromas of food every where, from the orange blossom in the atayef batter, to the toasted flour on the bread to the smell of the frying oil in which the fresh falafels are being dipped, one by one, to be fried... It is such a sensory experience that is sharpened by fasting. By the time we got home, mum would have finished all the cooking and it was only a matter of minutes finishing up with the setting of the table and then savouring the muchawaited meal.
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Ramadan is about connection. Be it one’s connection with the creator, or that with the self or family and friends and that to me is the most unforgettable memory of this Holy Month. And this is why I still appreciate this very special month to date, and aspire to pass this experience to my kids.
#RamadanSpecial
Soulful Iftars...
break your bread this Ramadan on the streets, with strangers!
Dubai has a variety of Iftar offerings throughout the month of Ramadan across the city's many restaurants - from elaborate Iftar spreads to beautiful Ramadan tents. This year, we take a look at a few selected Iftars which are styled differently and that we feel, embody the true spirit of Ramadan. We urge you to go beyond the traditional Iftars offerings and go and break your bread on the streets, with strangers.
Old Dubai Ramadan Walk & Iftar ~ with Frying Pan Adventures Join the Ahmed Sisters of Frying Pan Adventures, for a soulful Iftar adventure through an old neighbourhood steeped in the tradition of communal sharing during the holy month of Ramadan. The photo trail is conducted in partnership with Gulf Photo Plus and is led by a host who has grown up in Dubai. The cultural journey encompasses a discussion of Ramadan, encounters with the fasting residents of the area and a closing dinner at a downto-earth local Afghani eatery. Priced at AED 595/person From 5:30 pm to 11:15 pm on selected dates www.fryingpanadventures.com
#UnseenTrails
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Arva Ahmed Founder, Frying Pan Adventures
My childhood memories of Ramadan are a mixed bag of associations - proud restraint, enticing kitchen aromas, intense hunger, heightened appreciation for the bare essentials, anticipation for Eid. I remember going to school and having to constantly remind myself to not drink or eat by mistake - something I'd done at least once every season! I remember walking through the door after school and being overcome by the aromas of food cooking in my mother's kitchen. I remember falling into the bed for the last few hours, hoping to soothe my crying stomach over with a wave of sleep. I remember standing around the TV with my family, waiting in anticipation for the televised scene of canons going off and the call to prayer. I remember the feeling of relief when the first date disappeared into the void of my cavernous stomach, followed by the cool trickle of water gradually awakening my dehydrated limbs back to life. I remember Iftar with such joy because every day mum served us a different reward: samosas stuffed with her legendary lentil mix, batter-fried chillies with bellies of tamarind and sesame paste, spiced corn drenched in butter and lime, tender shami kabab with tangy chutney, lentil fritters floating about a creamy yoghurt gravy tempered with chillies and cumin (dahi wada). I remember Suhour with far less joy - it was always challenging to be woken up by my parents at that time of the morning and not be cranky at the world! And the last few days were always the best, because you know Eid and endless sweets and celebrations are right around the corner. My Ramadan memories are so tied into my family that when I left for college, the Holy Month never felt the same.
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Feed The Men in Blue ~ with Moti Roti & others A great initiative from Moti Roti, this is supported by other local businesses, bloggers and resident volunteers during Ramadan and aims to fill the bellies of the labourers toiling in the summer heat. Each evening, volunteers are requested to turn up at the designated construction site (this Ramadan it is at Al Barsha opposite Al Khoury Hotel) 30 minutes before Iftar to help the setting up. The handing out of food starts at Iftar time. Time: 6:30 pm everyday during Ramadan excepting Fridays www.motiroti.me/fillingtheblues
A Contemporary Arabic Iftar ~ at Al Serkel Avenue Contrary to the lavish Iftar buffet spreads that are prevalent in the city, this Iftar offering shouts out for a different hashtag - #ThisIsNotABuffet! Hosted by Alserkel Avenue, this is a community-focused, popup Iftar that celebrates togetherness and community spirit during the Holy Month amidst traditional Arabic instruments and board games. The event, which will take place every night from the beginning of Ramadan until Eid, will be held in a custom-designed warehouse in The Yard and Alserkal Avenue will donate 5% of the revenue generated to charity. The menu focuses on Arabic cuisine and has been created by Elements Catering and one can choose from two- and five-course menus ranging from AED 90 to AED 210 per person. A tapas menu will also be available starting from AED 12. www.alserkalavenue.ae
#TogetherAgain
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Brighton Rock Pop Up Iftar ~ at the Hatchback Inspired by the retro rock period of mid-century Brighton, Ghaf Kitchen's second Iftar pop up promises to transport one to a world of vintage motorcycles, revving engines and candyfloss as Ghaf pays homage to the retro petrol heads of the 60’s and 70’s and their famous rides to Brighton, all in the heart of Al Quoz at Café Rider. Café Rider will be transformed with a kitchen concept built into a classic seaside hut and the famous Ghaf Kitchen vintage Citroen H van as the central service area. Pallet tables, urban seating, rope lights, bunting, deckchairs and quirky tableware will be used throughout with the classic retro motorcycles of Cafe Rider adding to the bygone era theme. A sharing Mezza menu is followed by the Mains which offers the Ghaf signature dishes like Fish &chips, there is more - the Brighton Wrap with spiced lamb balls and the Quinoa hotdog and the Chicken roast. The Dessert menu doesn't have their popular Eton Mess - but we can live with that! Priced at AED 180/person (Iftar) or a la carte From 7:00 pm -9:00 pm Iftar and 9:00 pm -11:00 pm Suhoor Everyday until the end of Ramadan www.ghafkitchen.com
#PopUpIftar
An Iftar Menu From the Cookbooks ~ at BookMunch BookMunch is a cafe cum bookstore and it is not surprising then that the Iftar Menu is a mixture of contemporary food from the Middle East, inspired by some of the cookbooks from the region like Persiana: Recipes from the Middle East & Beyond by Sabrina Ghayour and also includes cookbooks of Dubai resident Chefs like the New Feast: Modern Middle Eastern Vegetarian by Greg Malouf; Pomegranates and Roses by Ariana Bundy; Plated Heirlooms by Dima Al Sharif; Food, Love and Life by Dalia Dogmoch; When Suzanne Cooks by Suzanne Husseini and others. The menu is part buffet spread and part a la carte with Kunafa croissant and "East Meets West" ice cream stations! Priced at AED 129/person (Ramadan drinks and water included) Everyday during Ramadan in BookMunch's Business Bay outlet www.bookmunchcafe.com
#ReinventingIftar
Images: Provided
#RamadanSpecial
I fast...
and I am not a Muslim!
When you are living in a cosmopolitan city like Dubai where more than 200 nationalities rub shoulders against each other at any given point in time, it is only organic that one will end up imbibing others' cultures. Ramadan is one such example where we have seen many non-Muslims observing fasting to show solidarity in the culture that they are living in. Debbie, is one such example. She is also an active volunteer in the #FillingTheBlues initiative and you will find her breaking her fast with the men in blues every single day of Ramadan!
By Debbie Rogers
This is my seventh Ramadan in Dubai and the second one where I will be fasting. I don’t fast for religious reasons as I’m not a Muslim, but did find that a month of fasting really put me back in touch with food in a way that I hadn’t imagined it would. After a month of fasting and a bit of trial and error, I regained an appreciation of how good it feels to use food to fuel my body rather than as something I take a bit for granted. I also realised just how often I taste a dish when it’s cooking resulting in a lot of ‘innocent’ sneaky extra calories, and the importance of keeping hydrated, partly because of the Dubai heat. Here are my tips to having a healthy Ramadan based on my experiences: Keep Hydrated – This is probably one of the hardest things to do but I found that with a bit of little practice, it’s possible. Drink plenty of water, coconut water and laban when you break your fast. Fruit juices and soup are also helpful as they hydrating, provide energy and are not too filing. It’s also great to sneak water in through the consumption of fruit, watermelon, cucumbers etc. Eat Sensibly – Eat nutritious food, which nourishes your body and provides slow releasing energy. Avoid sugar if you can as it just makes you tired and run out of energy. Don’t overeat as you will feel uncomfortable and equally don’t under eat, as you won’t have energy the next day. Play around with your meals until you find a winning combination that’s right for you. For me, it was a light meal at Suhoor (dates, laban and maybe a small salad) plus my beloved coffee, followed by a few hours of exercise at the gym. This was followed by a heavier meal (protein and veggies) and lots of water to sustain me until Suhoor the next day. Warning - Skip this part and you will find Ramadan much more difficult to cope with. Sleep Well – Try to figure out a sleeping pattern that works for you and that you can maintain during Ramadan. A regular pattern of sleep worked best for me so whilst I slept late at night, I tried not to sleep in too late in the morning and preferred to take a nap at a set time in the late afternoon. I found that on the days that I slept well, fasting was less of a challenge and my energy levels increased. Exercise and Keep Moving – It’s tempting not to train during Ramadan, certainly my energy levels were different than usual. I found that having a routine helped, and I trained late in the evening. There were a few nights when I just didn’t have the energy to train, mostly during the earlier part of the month when I was experimenting with food and had over eaten, and also once after I had been to an Iftar dinner and could barely move after eating - a huge mistake on my part. If you are planning to train, don’t use fasting as an excuse. You might need to modify your training to match your nutrition, but unless you have your nutrition completely out of sync, there’s no reason not to train.
#TurkishCoffee The one thing that I do miss during fasting is my morning cup of coffee as I am a coffee-addict! Read my coffee story on Pg 62.
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Finally, Enjoy the Experience – I chose to do a full fast without food or water during Ramadan last year and again this year. In previous years, I’ve done a food fast and drank during the day. If you choose to fast, for whatever reason, always make sure you are medically fit to do so. If you can manage the whole 30 days - fantastic, and if you can’t, it’s no problem. It’s great to do a fasting experience for the whole month and to appreciate the temptations around us and also to show solidarity with those who are fasting around us. And, the added bonus? I lost ten pounds too!
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#DubaiDining
Siraj... a delectable blend of Emirati and Levantine flavours, and a gorgeous venue! By Debbie Rogers
When team FoodeMag heard about Siraj, a newly opened restaurant offering Levantine and Emirati food, we had to pop in for lunch to check it out. We are always on the hunt for good Emirati food, specially as the city doesn’t yet have too many options for Emirati fare, and therefore Siraj not only intrigued our interests but also our taste buds!
The architecture embodies Arabic heritage with seven arches representing the seven Emirates and golden horses reflecting Emirati culture. The walls are adorned with Arabic calligraphy and poems by HH Sheikh Mohammed. The yellow stone represents Levantine culture, while the sand stone represents Emirati culture.
THE MENU CONCEPT The menu is created by Executive Chef Ahmad Al Fakir (who we have previously met while he was at Qbara), is packed with organic ingredients and authentic tastes with a modern twist. He told us that he has worked on the development of the menu for over six months, taking inspiration from recipes passed on by older generations and adding his own personal experiences for the contemporary twist to the traditional dishes. We loved our dining experience in Siraj - the aroma of freshly baked Arabic Bread at the entrance of the restaurant, along with the displays of organic jams and pickles are all very enticing and comforting. The food is traditional yet served with a modern twist, the awe-inspiring interiors and a landmark location make this a great venue for taking visitors who want to taste traditional food and at the same time tick the things-to-see-in-Dubai list - the Dubai fountains and of course, the Burj Khalifa!
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Images: Debbie Rogers & Ishita B Saha
THE FOOD What we loved: We started off with a dish of traditional hummus paired with a gorgeous fluffy bread along with a beautifully presented (and delicious) Grilled Eggplant Mutabal and a Labneh with Smoked Salmon (you may add caviar here at an extra cost!), followed by a rather interesting dish of Warm Dates & Kale Salad where, the dates had been slow cooked in Arabic ghee and topped with Syrian string cheese. The Signature Halawa Salad followed soon along with the Lobster Kebbeh, the latter clearly being one dish that we had been looking forward to. Our Mains included a Chicken Biryani (cooked in a 'dum' wrapped inside a dough resembling much like the pao), Grilled Veal Chops and Grilled Seabass. The veal chops served with dried curry potatoes and zaatar pesto was definitely our clear favourite pick of the day as was the simple comforting dish of potatoes - Siraj Potatoes cooked in the family style of the restaurant's founder, Heba Rumhein.
Labneh with preserved lemon and za'atar pesto topped with smoked salmon and baby beetroot
Although we were rather full and asked for a dessert to share, but Chef Fakir and the restaurant’s notion of Arabic hospitality ensured that we tasted more than just one! The Dates Crème Brulée was light and crispy, both the Logaymat (also popularly known as leqaimat) and Sticky Dates Pudding affectionately sticky, all the desserts hit the right sweetness quotient although the Sticky Dates pudding with the caramel sauce was our firm favourite! Drinks in the menu do call for some attention. The Mango Chat Masala with fresh chilli which was a big hit, with fresh red chilli stirred in for an added kick for those feeling extra brave! There are plenty of other interesting options to try - Pomegranate Champagne, the Arabian Delight with dates, almonds and rose syrup or the Toffee Dates Delight with espresso, chocolate, dates and whipped cream – the latter acting as a worthy end-of-meal dessert substitute. And speaking of my final thirst quencher coffee, Siraj offers two different types of Turkish coffee as well as an Emirati and Saudi blend of Arabic coffee. All check boxes ticked! THE VIBE Siraj is located in Souq Al Bahar in Downtown Dubai, a quick walk from our office at Impact Hub. Once inside, we loved the modern contemporary feel that combined effortlessly with the rich Arabic touch. Starting with the beautiful long bar area, or the large display of a coffee pot in the middle of the restaurant and the different family style banquet seating areas, there is a lot of light streaming in imparting a bright feel to the restaurant and there are plenty of aesthetic touches to please the eye. Outdoors, there is a terrace with views of the Dubai Fountains - perfect once the weather cools down for the discerning Dubai residents and tourists. Iftar (AED 190/person) and Suhour menus (a la carte) available throughout Ramadan from sunset to 1:30am Siraj Level 2, Souk Al Bahar, Downtown Dubai Reservations: +971 4 457 4063 / reservations@sirajrestaurant.com
Dates Crème Brulée
#DubaiDining
Enigma...
the second act, the second story - a Nordic journey! By Debbie Rogers
JOURNEY OF A NORDIC CHEF Walking into the Enigma dining room just three months after our first visit, when we had gone to experience 'Vanguard by Quique Dacosta', you could forgive us for thinking we were in a completely different space. The dining room, once stark and plain, was now decorated with dark panels covered with images of the beautiful Northern Lights. The dining tables were adorned in a mixture of Nordic flowers and dried moss whilst outside on the terrace, the Nordic theme continued with a DJ at his console playing the Beatles and other tracks at the backdrop of a vibrant and somewhat mesmerising Northern Lights beaming on the large screen. Enigma is now in its second act and a new chef and his team are in town. Just a few days prior to dinner, I had the honour of interviewing Björn Frantzén from the Frantzén Group. Frantzén is listed at No 31 at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and the
A brand new dining experience had hit Dubai with the launch of Enigma, The Untold Story, at Palazzo Versace. Enigma opened it’s doors in January this year with a new exciting concept which will see the restaurant run by four different chefs throughout the year each taking over the restaurant for three months. Each Chef comes with Michelin starred credentials and associated with a restaurant listed in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants!
Enigma and Frantzén team have been working closely together for the last three months planning a Nordic takeover of Enigma. It was the first time that most of us at our table had experienced Nordic cuisine in the real sense. Probably with this in mind, the team presented us with a menu that is in the form of an informative booklet with illustrations of each dish by Björn Frantzén himself that also told us the story about each dish, while explaining about some of the key Nordic ingredients used. Apparently, Björn Frantzén explains his concept of any dish to his team through illustrations. I love to read a menu prior to dining and to know the story behind each dish, so this was a perfect accompaniment to our meal. It would be interesting to mention here, that in the first chapter of Enigma, a lot of drama element came via the confidentiality of the menu – and in fact, there hadn’t been any menu in the traditional sense of the word!
Oyster with granita of sea buckthorn, juniper cream & sprouted walnut
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Images: FoodEMag dxb Björn Frantzén personally overseeing his guests at their tables
Northern lights beaming on the screen behind the DJ console at the outdoor terrace
Björn Frantzén's illustrations go into the pages of the menu booklet that the diner can take away as a souvenir from his/her Nordic dining experience. Shown here is the white Moss “sushi” with deer, frozen bird’s liver, burnt hay and chantarelles.
Scallop served in its own shell with a liqueur, dried roe, fir tree, finger lime and “dashi“
#DubaiDining
...Enigma continued THE MENU CONCEPT The menu had been carefully curated to showcase some of the favourite dishes on the menu in Frantzén, with a few minor adjustments in terms of availability of ingredients or seasonality. We were served the 'Full Story' or the complete tasting menu comprising of twelve courses. Service was swift and attentive, the staff was incredibly informative - each dish was explained in terms of the ingredients and some of the techniques that had been used to create them. As the courses rolled, we continued to be served dishes that were both visually impressive as well as innovative and tasted good. The focus of each course was often one ingredient, which would then be lifted up with the addition of a few carefully chosen other ingredients. Each dish had been carefully thought through and the presentation was impeccable, with clever techniques capturing and intensifying the ingredients for flavours. THE FOOD The highlight for me was the Apple and Lingonberry Macaron with foie gras and chervil - the lingonberries had been dried and served as a fine powder dusting on top of the apple macaron. Lingonberry is probably one of the only Nordic ingredients familiar to me, and it surprised me that they could be served can be served in such a delicate way. Interestingly, another macaron twist signed off our meal – thus reflecting the complete circle of life! Other personal favourites included White Moss “sushi” with deer, frozen bird’s liver, burnt hay and chantarelles. The moss, like most of the ingredients used, had been imported from Sweden and added an unusual element to the dish. This was probably the first time that I’ve eaten moss and a quick scan of the menu booklet explained that moss was a nutritious ingredient although not so commonly in use now. I adore scallops, and the Scallop served in its own shell with a liqueur, dried roe, fir tree, finger lime and “dashi“ felt sublime and I longed for more! The scallops had been hand dived from the cold Nordic seas and simply begged to be slurped directly from the shell with a bit of an extra pouring of dashi’ or the stock at the end. The menu booklet told us the story about the fir tree and the many uses of fir tree products, its resins, barks, twigs, flours etc. For this dish in particular, the leaves had been ground down to a fine power. The most visually appealing dish, was the “Hot-pot” and consisted of lamb served with cabbage, roasted cauliflower bouillon and truffles. Although it wasn’t my favourite dish, as I don’t like mixing textures, it looked stunning and caused quite a stir at the table. It was hard to believe that such an intensity and a complexity could be arrived by using the humble cabbage as the ingredient! Coming to the Desserts, I loved the Cloudberry and Thyme Macaron with wild berries as I also saw it being made in the kitchen earlier. The macarons were delicate and crispy with a slight chew, and the intensely flavoured cloudberry filling was delightful. The second dessert - Smoked Ice Cream, roasted nuts, tar syrup and salted fudge with cloves left us with mixed views. The tar syrup had a strong and pungent flavour quite similar to licorice and required an acquired liking for the taste but the presentation was gorgeous. There’s a lot to learn and love about Nordic cuisine. The use of ingredients are interesting and unique, many of them being completely new to me. The flavours vary from being delicate to intense and focuses on freshness of the produce. Frantzén Group is famous for using seasonal local produce, and this showed through the menu and we were introduced not only to the highlights of Nordic ingredients but also the four seasons!
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Images: Debbie Rogers & Ishita B Saha
Behind Closed Doors FoodeMag got exclusive #BehindClosedDoors access to the team from Palazzo Versace as they worked on the preparation for their Second Act at the Enigma – Journey of a Nordic Chef with Björn Frantzén, which launched on 20th April 2016 and will continue until 30th June, 2016. Our exclusive story covers a pre-launch trip with Jean Benoit (Assistant Manager, Enigma) and Chef Yunus (Executive Chef of Enigma) on a 5 day trip to Stockholm to meet the team at Frantzén, to start planning for the launch through to behind the scenes coverage on launch day and beyond. Debbie Rogers also got a peep into the kitchen as Björn Frantzén and the Enigma team prepared for our media preview dinner. Read more in our website www.foodemag.com
Journey of the Nordic Chef until 30th June, 2016 A 8-courses 'Half Story' priced at AED 550/person and 12-courses 'Full Story' at AED 750/person (excludes alcohol in both) Location: Enigma, Palazzo Versace Dubai Reservations: +971 4 556 8888 Images: Debbie Rogers
So, which is the next chef at Enigma?
#DubaiDining
Weslodge...
'high fine dining' & classic American fare redefined! By Ishita B Saha
We are literally transported to the clouds - 68 floors above SZR overlooking a stunning Dubai panorama, and the food and service that follows for the next few hours in no way brings us down to the ground. Weslodge Saloon, a Canadian restaurant import promises ‘Rock and Roll’ chic and explores American cuisine like no other and amidst a lot of sophistication. It makes us proud to be holding our first ever #EatUp here with 10 lucky readers and their plus ones!
#BeyondYellow
THE MENU CONCEPT Executive Chef Ben Heaton is also from Toronto and brings most of the signature dishes from the Toronto restaurant to Dubai, adding a few new dishes - the 'raw dishes', that seems to appeal a lot to Dubai diners. He is joined by Paddy McDermott from the Canada team and Ryan Mark Allen joins in with a Qbara and a Zuma pedigree to back him up. While the classic American fare has been uplifted and redefined, the menu doesn't go and on - it is concise and comes in 'small' or 'large' portions, and meant for sharing which is the current dining trend at this hour. The kitchen boasts of a four-metre grill – built by Grillworks in the United States which costs US$ 60,000 (AED 220,000) and is the largest in the Middle East and will use both hardwood and charcoal to achieve flavour and maximum heat. The beverages menu assumes equal focus and importance as the food menu - not only are there more than 100 cocktails with expert mixologists creating unique interpretations of classic drinks like Orange Spiced Old Fashioned and Barrel Aged Negroni but also a running tap for two of their signature cocktails!
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Images: Ishita B Saha
THE FOOD What we loved: The staff is chirpy and friendly and well versed with the menu and we end up ordering dishes that are their favourites, including the chefs' favourite picks! While the Canadian classic street food Poutine made with french fries and cheese curds topped with gravy assumes a fine dining stature here with inclusion of lobster meat and hollandaise, the side orders of Cream Corn with red onion and black garlic and the Roast Cauliflower with buttermilk ranch is comforting to the core. The Mac and Cheese was one of Chef's top picks but we decided to save it for our next visit, and instead opted for Roasted Beets with burrata, orange, grapes, hazelnut and Niagara vinegar and the Smoky Beef Tartare with cured egg yolk, black truffle and horseradish cream - both crying out for second servings. The Grilled Welsh Rhug Estates Lamb Chops with red onion chimichurri followed soon along with the crowning dish of the day - the Southern Fried Chicken with tabasco honey and brussels sprouts slaw at the side. The chicken had been marinated overnight in labneh and then put in hot oil for a minute assuring us that we were tugging into the healthiest (and the tastiest) fried chicken that we must have eaten in our entire lives!
Lobster Poutine with hollandaise, tarragon and house fries
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For dessert, we were recommended to try Gianuja Tart and we instantly fell in love with the yuzu flavoured lemon custard and meringues which brought a very refreshing change in our palate - much like a zingy sorbet. We also had S'mores a traditional camp treat popular in the US and Canada, consisting of roasted marshmallows and a layer of chocolate sandwiched between two pieces of graham cracker smothered with rich chocolate sauce. This is a new addition to the dessert menu and everything in this dish was made in house including the marshmallows and the Graham crackers - a real delight. THE VIBE The space inside is literally huge and sprawls across a 4,500 sq ft L-shaped room that can seat more than 140 diners. While cosy leather and velvet couches, settees and low lying coffee tables occupy one part of the room, traditional seating arrangements around dining tables mark the other side - the long seating by the bar holding centre stage through and through. A resident DJ serenades with ageless classics, hip hop and rock and roll while a stunning Dubai panorama engulfs the entire space, including the formidable Burj Khalifa peeping at one end. We loved our relaxed dining experience as we watched the sunset with sundowners and ushered in the evening and when it was time for us to leave, we were surprised with the crowd that had started pouring in - the entire space was throbbing. With honest food that tastes good and with the price pointers for the location that it has, we will not be surprised if Weslodge Saloon soon becomes one of Dubai's 'must visit' lounges and dining venues!
Weslodge is open daily for dinner from 6:00 pm until 2:00 am. Location: JW Marriott Marquis, Tower B, 68th Floor. Reservations: +971 4 560 1700/ 800035703994 or reservations@weslodgedubai.ae
#DubaiDining
At.mosphere... clichéd? Oh yes, but this is the highest Brunch in the world! By Debbie Rogers
THE BRUNCH AFFAIR The entry is via the Armani Hotel and after a swift lift transfer, we enter the lounge for the first time during the daytime and find it difficult not to be distracted with the stunning views of Dubai. Taking our seats by the window, we were pleased to find that the brunch is a mixture of family style and live cooking stations, thus letting us sit back, relax and savour the view whilst the food is brought to us. Fifteen dishes were served to our table, family style, some pre-plated with plenty to share for two persons, whilst others were served table side by the friendly staff. My favourites would definitely be the Obsiblue Shu Mai
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Images: Debbie Rogers
Here’s a brunch not only with a fantastic location at (level 122 of the iconic Burj Khalifa) but also with a twist, as it only operates four times a year. So if you want to savour this one, you will need to plan ahead and book well in advance. Described as a ‘gastronomic Friday brunch’, the quarterly brunch at At.mosphere Lounge has to be one of our favourite brunches of the year (no, we don’t take up invites for all the brunches in this brunch obsessed city!).
along with the Wagyu Beef Tartar and Slow Cooked Lamb Shank, while the Veal and Foie Gras Pie alone calls for a second trip! All the dishes are presented beautifully and it is clear that there has been no compromise on any of the ingredients in terms of quality. The live station boasts of a stunning Raw Bar with Maison Kaviari, Alaskan King Crab and sweet oysters Parc St Kerber from Cancale. There’s much to rejoice for the meat lovers too, including a whole roasted leg of Wagyu beef that had been slow cooked for thirty-six hours and a Rhug Estate Welsh Lamb, both hand carved to order. As if this wasn’t enough, we were treated to a huge selection of pastries for dessert, all served at the table
and also available at a separate dessert station. An extensive cheese selection with cheese from Maison Mons, handmade butter and a delightful selection of breads, pickles and preserves stand as a standby for perfect accompaniments. At.mosphere Brunch: Brunch runs from 12 noon until 4:00 pm, four times a year. The next brunch will be on 8th July. Booking is essential and reservations must be paid for in advance. AED 880/per person including premium beverages or AED 680/person including soft drinks. Reservations: +971 4 8883828
#DubaiDining
Thiptara... hypno beats and the dancing fountains! By Debbie Rogers
Back to earth with a bump from our earlier brunch escapade and this time we are about to enjoy views of the Burj Khalifa from the ground! We thoroughly enjoyed the Hypno Thai Brunch at Thiptara, The Palace Downtown Dubai - sitting outside on the terrace with stunning views of the fountains and the Burj Khalifa, we were in for a real treat on a brunch that was a mixture of a la carte and buffet. With this delicious all-you-can-eat brunch, one can really explore Thai food without encountering any expensive menu mistakes!
Kung Mung Korn Phad Prik Thai or the wok fried Canadian lobster
THE THAI BRUNCH AFFAIR Starters and desserts are served from hot and cold serving stations, and there is staff on hand to make some of the starters fresh to order and to provide a helping hand with recommendations. The Tom Sam or the green papaya salad was particularly good – hot and spicy and not toned down which is usually the case for a perceived western palate. The dishes from the main courses, are served a la carte and we ordered Kung Mung Korn Phad Prik Thai or the wok fried Canadian lobster and Nua Phad Prik Ohn or stir fried Wagyu Beef, both of which were exceptionally good, although my pick would be the tender and succulent
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Images: Debbie Rogers
lobster in a vibrant presentation which retained its flavour amidst all the other spices and flavours in the Wok. The drinks included signature Handmade Iced Teas along with botanical sodas served in cute bottles with a sommelier on hand to help. Desserts were very traditionally Thai, which were too heavy for my palate although my companion loved them. However, this was offset by a particularly good lemon meringue cocktail which the bartender promptly made me when I reminisced about a similar cocktail I had when I dined in Thiptara first at the official opening of the Burj Khalifa.
With a stunning location, lovely menu choices, a laid back and a casual vibe, we reckon that this is soon going to be a very popular brunch option. We loved the fact that the brunch was contained in one area of the restaurant; everything was portioned into tasting size portions, which meant that not only could one try plenty of different dishes but also there was minimal food wasted. Hypno Thai Brunch at Thiptara, The Palace Downtown Every Friday 1:00- 4:00 pm after the end of Ramadan Priced (per person) at AED 260 (with soft beverages), AED 320 (with house beverages) AED 390 (with house beverages and bubbly). Ground Level, The Palace Downtown Dubai Reservation: +971 4 888 3444 or dine@thepalace-dubai.com
Coming Soon
DestinationDiaries
#Travel
A Tale of 2 Travellers... Taking a year out from the rat-race to explore the world, former Dubai journalists Lucy Taylor and Joe Mortimer chart the highs and lows of life on the road, and travelling as a couple. Buenos Aires, Peru, Costa Rica, Panama, Nicaragua
and, this time from Guatemala!
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Morning at the serene Lago de Atitlán
By Lucy Forbes Taylor
Guatemala...
according to her
Sitting on the roof-terrace of our hostel, breakfasting on fresh fruit and local coffee with the sun rising over a glittering sweep of water, it was hard to imagine a more perfect spot.
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We’d arrived in Guatemala, a nation that brings together different creeds, cultures and cuisines – traditional and modern – in a surprisingly harmonious whole. This diversity is displayed neatly at the serene Lago de Atitlán: a lake in the Guatemalan Highlands, surrounded by village-dotted mountains.
We were staying in San Pedro La Laguna, a small community perched on the water’s edge and packed with precariously stacked buildings and streets so narrow they limit traffic to pedestrians and tuk tuks. The roads widen as you approach the harbour, which is overlooked by the mighty San Pedro Volcano. Here lies the main strip, buzzing with shops, tour agencies and restaurants. Many expats have made their home here, as have former Guatemala City dwellers looking to escape the crowded capital. Consequently the food is impressively varied, ranging from typical Guatemalan fish and rice dishes, to American breakfasts, Mexican tortillas and Indian curries. But the joy of staying around Lago de Atitlán is not its international cuisine, but the diverse destinations around
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Images: Lucy Taylor
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the lake; each different community offers something new. We took a taxi-boat across the water to Santiago Atitlán: the largest of the lake side dwellings and probably the most traditional, with a visible indigenous influence. Colourful embroidered clothing, locally grown produce and religious iconography are all on display. At the dock we engaged a guide, Carlos – an ancient, leathery-skinned local – and went to meet the town’s revered local god, Maximón. A Mayan folk deity who assimilated elements of the Spanish saints during the conquest, Maximón is a mischievous troublemaker that worshippers constantly try to appease. He’s depicted as a stuffed mannequin, who spends each
year in a different household, waiting for the annual April procession to a new home. But while he’s relaxing at his current address, people are welcome to visit, providing they bring offerings. (He likes whisky and cigarettes.) Our next excursion, an early morning hike around the lake, took us to the village of San Marcos La Laguna, where the atmosphere could not have been more different. Favoured by backpackers, it’s said to have a strong ‘mystic pull’. Hipsters and hippies have made it their hangout, and the place is packed with yoga studios, meditation forums and vegetarian restaurants. After a delicious lunch of homemade pasta with locally grown vegetables in one of San Marcos’ stellar sustainable restaurants, we made our way back to peaceful San Pedro. After strolling along the winding paths to our hostel, we relaxed at the bar with a cool beverage as the sun sank into a lake turned pink and orange by its beams, and reflected that, in this spot, we had the best of both worlds.
Joe sampling locally made chocolate in San Marcos Santiago market
Lucy with her guide, Carlos
Walking around the lake
Antigua Walking Tour
Guatemala...
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By Joe Mortimer
according to him
The first thing you notice when you arrive in Guatemala is the colour. From the emerald green of its rainforests to the canary-yellow walls of its colonial cities, the country comes alive in vivid hues from the moment you arrive. While the señorita studied Spanish at a language school in the postcard-perfect UNESCO World Heritage city of Antigua, I spent my days wandering the streets and soaking in some of that colour!
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The volcanic landscape around Antigua is covered in rich, fertile soil, which gives birth to some of the most exquisite fresh fruit and vegetables you will taste anywhere. Carts around the main plaza sell fruit juices in myriad colours to eager tourists, while street vendors ply bags of sliced fruit, seasoned with a squeeze of fresh lemon and a dusting of chilli powder and salt. We quickly became accustomed to having sticky fingers dripping with mulched mango. At the north end of town, next to the regional bus terminus – a cacophony of colour and noise – the covered market shows
Lucy walking the streets of the colonial city
off a glut of fresh produce. Enormous watermelons are carved into head-sized slices with a swish of a sharp blade, while fresh coconuts are opened up with three quick blows from a machete and served with a straw. Bananas and plantains are arranged according to ripeness, ranging from lime green to dark earthy brown, peaking at bright yellow somewhere in the middle. Mangos in red, green and orange are piled up next to heaps of grapes, plums, dragon fruit and pomegranate, perfumed by sticks of dried cinnamon whose spicy scent fills the air. In the centre of town, brightly dressed indigenous women from local villages in the foothills of the volcanoes sell textiles and handicrafts, while smoke-belching chicken buses rumble down the cobbled streets and children scamper around with hand-made toys. Many of the most prominent buildings, including the baroque style Iglesia de la Merced, the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales and the iconic Santa Carolina Arch are all resplendent in shades of yellow, a colour that seems to have dominated the architectural palette of the former capital. Only in the ruins of ancient monasteries and fallen cathedrals – victims of a series of earthquakes that flattened the city in the 18th century – does the colourful barrage cease, leaving in its wake a cool, monochrome dullness. Stifled by the absence of colour, I would stumble back out into the bright sunlight and cheery streets, and lose myself once again in the kaleidoscope that is Antigua.
Images: Joe Mortimer
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Volcan Concepcion on Isla Ometepe
#Travel
...Guatemala continued
Her archives...
lucyt_travels
Maxiomon with shamens
Sunshine and a volcano
The cross-lake boat trip
His archives..
joemorts
Chicken Buses
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Antigua Walking Tour
So, which is their next destination? Images: Lucy Taylor & Joe Mortimer
#CulturalTravel
Turkish Coffee:
a caffeine hit in the Turkish way!
One of my favourite ways to end a dinner is to sip into a good Turkish coffee. Dark, intense and piping hot and often served table side from a Turkish Coffee pot known as the Cezve (pronounced jezz-va), it’s more than just a coffee. As if tradition and history are pouring themselves into each cup. I really discovered Turkish Coffee first in Istanbul, about fifteen years ago. Sometimes it was served elaborately at the table and other times it was prepared quickly and plonked on the table carelessly. Regardless of how it was served the intense rich flavour pulled me in, the slightly powdery feel as I drank the coffee, the rich smell and the intensity of aromas are something that I adore.
By Debbie Rogers
A widow smeared in colour sits on the ground and rests after the holi celebration as organized by Sulabh International
Dubai Coffee Museum has unique and interesting finds on coffees from all over the world, including Turkish Coffee
A coffee dala in Dubai Coffee Museum
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Sugar cubes are necessary embellishments of a coffee table in Turkey
I love my coffee without sugar, but a Turkish Coffee is often served with sugar which is added during the brewing process and served in small coffee cups complete with the fine coffee grounds. My tip here - never drink to the bottom of the cup or you will get an unpleasant mouthful of coffee power!
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Turkish Coffee is a way of preparation and serving unfiltered coffee which has been simmered in a pot over heat as it brews and is also referred to as Arabic Coffee. The pot or the Cezve has been designed specifically to make Turkish Coffee. Traditionally made in brass or copper, the more modern ones are made of steel, aluminum or ceramic. The Cezve is also commonly known as the Ibrik and there are Ibrik championships across the World. Throwing tradition aside, it’s also possible to make Turkish Coffee in a modern Turkish Coffee Maker, which is an electric version of the Cezve. In the Middle East, other types of simmered coffee, including Syrian Coffee, Lebanese Coffee and Egyptian Coffee are all slightly different variations of Turkish Coffee in terms of flavour, preparation and presentation.
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#CulturalTravel
Inside the serene Hagia Sophia
A street winding down to the Blue Mosque in Istanbul
People gathering on the streets as dusk sets in
...continued Preparation of Turkish Coffee: It is made by firstly grinding the beans to a fine powder, traditionally in a mortar, but more likely now in an electric grinder. The best grind is done in a traditional Turkish hand grinder, which allows the grind to be incredibly fine which, most electric and/ or hand grinders can’t achieve. Once ground, the power is added to hot water (simmering, not boiling) and cooked over the heat until the powder has virtually dissolved and the flavours have intensified in the water. Usually, the coffee is brought close to boil point about three times, making sure it doesn’t boil. Also, it’s not stirred, as this would dissolve the foam, which is a complete no. It’s really a fine art that I am still trying to learn - if it’s kept too long then the coffee tastes burnt. Again, if it is not enough then the coffee is regarded as weak. Again, leaving the coffee pot on it’s own even for a slight moment calls for a disaster as it can overheat and boil over in a matter of seconds, thus leaving behind a nasty mess!
A typical ceramic demitasse used for Turkish coffee
As sugar is added to the coffee whilst it’s brewing, when ordering Turkish coffee you should be aware of this and order appropriately. I like to opt for ‘no sugar’, but it also comes as ‘little sugar’, ‘medium sugar’ and a ‘lot of sugar’, which refers to half a teaspoon, one teaspoon and one and a half to two teaspoons respectively. Do bear in mind that the serving size is in small Turkish Coffee cups (demitasse size – 90 ml) so that’s a lot of sugar to dissolve in a small quantity of water! Brewing might sound easy, but there’s an art there too, not only in terms of extracting the flavour of the coffee, but also in the foam. A thick layer of foam shows the skill of the coffee maker and this is also the reason why coffee is poured from a height from the pots into the cup, as this can add to the foam.
Crowd in the Egyptian Bazaar in Istanbul
Turkish coffee is generally served plain with varying levels of sugar, and also with the addition of cardamom, which is added to the water as it, simmers. Enjoyed your coffee? It is said that the pattern of the grounds tipped onto a saucer, can be used for fortune telling using a method called Tasseography. I’ve not seen this in action as yet, but my own personal reading of the coffee grounds (assuming I’ve not gulped them down by accident) always tells me to order just one more cup of Turkish Coffee!
A crowded street in Istanbul with the strong aroma of Turkish coffee drifting through. Images: Debbie Rogers & Ishita B Saha
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#CulinaryTravel
Jordan...
a whiff of history and heritage in real time! By Ishita B Saha
Al Khazneh or the Greek-style facade of the treasury in Petra is still one of the most visited 'heritage' landmarks in the world. There is only one word that describes the feeling of a first timer here - incredible!
Jordan is a country wrapped up in history and heritage. And almost every stone and rubble that we walked on, bore a testimony to that. Never have we been to a place so vibrant in its culture and warm in its hospitality. And never have we been so conflicted with our own emotions to the political instability around the world – how easily have we etched geographical boundaries and created partitions? If a bend at a highway pointed to Israel, the next bend reflected the pain of Gaza and the lost land that has once been Palestine. Our Jordan trip as part of FoodeMag’s #DestinationDiaries was nothing less than extraordinary and incredible – in its culinary exploration as well as peeping deep into humanity. We thank Samantha Wood, the food blogger extraordinaire and founder of the restaurant review website www.foodiva.net and Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea & Mövenpick Resort Petra for inviting the FoodeMag team for this curated trip to Jordan.
#DineTravelMovenpick
Yes, that olive tree in the courtyard of Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea! Nestled in a lush garden with its own orange orchards and olive trees, the resort resembles a traditional stone village and is located in the northern shores of the Dead Sea at the lowest point on Earth.
Dubai Coffee Museum has unique and interesting finds on coffees from all over the world, including Turkish Coffee
Driving into the sunset at Wadi Rum and settling into a campfire
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A traditional lunch at the very popular Haret Jdoudna in Madaba with the entire Mövenpick team. This 20th century house has been converted into a restaurant, coffee shop and a traditional Jordanian Souk and Crafts Market and is considered as a landmark and one of the best restaurants in Jordan.
A group of 6 passionate foodies and media influencers may not be the dream guests for any organizer, specially when every bend on the road throws up a surprising panorama or every morsel that one eats is so fresh and so endearing that it feels like being fed by one’s mother at home. Everything needed to be captured on camera and smartphone and documented diligently for our future write-ups!
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Our Jordan experience started with a vibrant sunset as we drove to our first night halt - the 'rose city of Petra' and ended with bidding goodbye to another chromatic sunset against the Dead Sea as we left for the Amman airport. In between, we explored Jordan, its culture and cuisine extensively with a visit to the Wadi Rum - also known as the Valley of the Moon; the city of Madaba and the ancient agricultural town of Al-Salt. In Petra, we woke up to the grandeur of pink sand cliffs of the historic site with the Mövenpick Resort Petra being located just opposite its entrance. And in the Dead Sea, we were surrounded by lush green gardens as we checked into rooms with private terraces designed much like cosy mud alcoves. Located in Sweimeh on the shores of the Dead Sea, the serenity of the resort pervaded through a sprawling 100,000 square metres of space! And throughout this journey, whetting our appetites was Chef Jihad Omar and his team's culinary expertise! Yes... veni, vidi, vici - I came; I saw; I conquered - 'we' in this case, and we conquered our fears of travelling the Middle East - as is perceived by many in other parts of the world at this hour!
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#CulinaryTravel
The national dish of Jordan is Mansaf: lamb seasoned with aromatic herbs, sometimes lightly spiced, cooked in yoghurt, and served with huge quantities of rice. Feasting on Mansaf is taken seriously, and hours are spent in its preparation. Mansaf is cooked in Jameed (the Arabic word for dried yoghurt), which is then mixed with water in a tray to produce a creamy sauce. This is poured into a large stewing pot with chunks of lamb meat. The pot is put over an open fire. As the stew begins to warm, it is stirred to prevent the yogurt from separating. Large trays are covered with the doughy flat Arabic bread and dampened with yogurt. On top of this, a layer of rice is heaped. The meat is then piled on top. Almonds, pine-kernels and other nuts may be sprinkled over the dish, which is then ready for serving.
Mansaf Serves 4-5
Ingredients
Method
For the Lamb For the Meat 1 ½ kg plain yogurt • Boil the meat pieces with a quarter of an onion, salt and all the spices in the water until 500 gms dry Jameed they become soft. In another pot, mix the yogurt with the previously soaked Jameed under 2 ½ kg lamb (meat pieces or lamb constant stirring (otherwise the yogurt will split), and bring the mixture to a boil. When the shanks) yogurt is boiling, turn off the heat. 1 onion • Once the meat turns soft, remove the pieces from the stock and strain it to get out all the bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, cumin, little pieces out. Add some of the stock to the cooked yogurt and keep the rest to cook the turmeric and salt (as per taste) rice. Add the meat into the yogurt mixture making sure there are no onions or bay leaves water for boiling in it. Add a little salt and pepper (usually it does not need a lot of salt). For the Rice: For the Rice • Sautée the rice in the butter until it gets a glazy look, add saffron and deglaze with the 1 kg Jasmine or Basmati Rice strained lamb stock. Cook it in the oven until the rice soaks up the stock. 100 gms butter Garnish: 3 gms saffron • In a big plate, first lay the Shrak bread at the bottom and soak it with Jameed sauce, add 1.5 lt stock from cooking of the lamb the cooked yellow rice and the meat pieces. Sprinkle roasted almonds, browned pine nuts, parsley on top. Serve the sauce separately. For Garnish 150 gms slivered almonds 50 gms pine seeds parsley, fresh chopped 1 piece Shrak or large Arabic flat bread
...Jordan continued Maqlouba is a traditional one-pot Palestinian dish, also popular in Jordan where meat, rice and fried vegetables are cooked in a stock in a pot and then flipped upside down while serving. It is served with plain yogurt or a simple Arabic salad. The word 'Maqlouba' translates into 'upside down'!
Chicken Maqlouba Serves 4
Ingredients
1 onion, chopped into quarters ½ kg eggplants ½ kg cauliflower, cut into small florets 2 whole chicken cut into 4 pieces 1 ½ kg short rice 4 cloves garlic 10 gms turmeric powder 10 gms coriander 1 tsp of mixed spices 2 bay leaves salt & pepper to taste For Garnish 150 gms sliced almonds 50 gms pine seeds
Method • • • • • • • • • • •
Peel and cut up the eggplant into slices. Soak 2 cups of rice in warm water with two pinches of salt and two teaspoons turmeric powder. Leave for 30 minutes. Fry the cauliflower florets and eggplant slices until brown. In the same pan, heat the almond pieces and pine nuts until they are fried. Set aside for later. Place chicken into a large pot and cover with water. Add the onion quarters, mixed spices and cook until the meat is done. This should take approximately 30 minutes. Remove the meat and season with salt, saving the broth for later. In a large pot, layer the chicken first, then the cauliflower florets and eggplant, and finally arrange the rice. Add some salt and additional turmeric powder to the chicken stock, and then pour it on top of the stack that has just been built (1 centimetre above the level of rice). Cook the saucepan on high heat until it boils, and then lower the heat. When the water has evaporated and the rice is cooked fully, take the pot off the heat and leave to cool. Flip the pot onto a serving plate slowly and carefully remove the pot. Garnish with the fried nuts and coriander. Serve yoghurt on the side.
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#CulinaryTravel Chef Jihad Omar feeding us an array of 'Sawani' dishes. Every dish was meant for sharing thus adding to the bonhomie to the communal dining arrangement that had been set up specially for us on the roof terrace of Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea.
The word 'Sawani' refers to the plural form for the baking dish that is known as 'Suniya' or 'Suniyat'. Sawanis are therefore traditional Jordanian baked dishes and can be made with anything - from simple potato dishes to vegetables fish to different kind of meats and fish.
Beef Sawani Serves 4
Ingredients
½ kg beef tenders ½ kg onions, julienned ½ kg potato rings ½ kg tomato rings 50 gms salt 30 gms pepper 10 gms chopped garlic green chili peppers (optional)
Method • • • • •
Marinate the beef tenders with salt and pepper. Pan fry for a few minutes. Fry the potato rings. Stir the beef in the pan with onions and garlic. Arrange the tomatoes and potatoes on top of it Put the pan in an oven for 45 minutes at 80º F. Serve the beef in the same pan or 'sawani'.
We learnt that there are many Jordanian meat dishes and the preparation of these dishes range from simple cooking to requiring very elaborate methods. But one thing that certainly stands out are the simple flavours. Spices and fresh herbs add to the intensity of every dish and brings back a sense of warmth and home cooking.
...Jordan continued
Freekeh is a traditional Jordanian cereal food made from green durum wheat cooked with in stock with roasted or fried meat - chicken or lamb served on top. Fresh salads accompany most of the Jordanian main dishes and the aroma of olive oil combined with fresh local produce makes each dining experience memorable.
Chicken Freekeh Serves 4
Ingredients
2 chicken cut into 4 pieces 10 gms of chopped onions 2 bay leaves 30 gms of olive oil 50 gms of mixed spices 50 gms of salt & pepper 20 gms of coriander 15 gms of turmeric powder 2 kg of Freekeh or crushed green wheat
Method
Boil chicken for 45 minutes adding salt and pepper (remove chicken pieces aside for later). Soak Freekeh in water. Drain it and stir with olive oil on medium heat. Add onion, and keep stirring until Freekeh dries a bit. Add spices and the chicken stock (1.5 cm above the level of Freekeh). Fry the chicken pieces and add them to Freekeh on the side and garnish with fried almonds and pine seeds. Serve with yoghurt. Recipes: Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea & Mövenpick Resort Petra (tried at FoodeMag kitchen and then adapted) www.movenpick.com/Dead-Sea; www.movenpick.com/Petra
So, where are we travelling to next? Images: Ishita B Saha & Debbie Rogers (Mansaf, Freekeh)
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