Classic Comfort

The charm of cafe STella

“Kid friendly”… and “a full bar” were the top two responses restaurateur Philippe rousseau received on his survey asking what customers wanted in the ambiance of his new restaurant. “Informal” was another. for rousseau, a native of france, it was easy to refine a concept – a french-american cafe.

“I like french cafe style,” he says, sitting inside cafe Stella on a foggy morning. The pale yellow paint on the walls is framed by crisp white trim, and offset by warm wooden floors and cozy claret-colored chairs and banquets.

“cafes are gathering places for the neighborhood, social spaces. You stop by for a coffee and to read the paper in the morning. later, you can have a full meal or just a small bite, a quick snack or leisurely drink.” rousseau is the rare restaurateur who doesn’t mind if customers linger. In fact, he encourages it. at a nearby booth, a website designer often works for hours, thanks to free Wi-fi; he’s begun to bring along other work-at-home friends. after school, a mom brings in the kids, who do homework while she has a glass of wine. There are board games and magazines near the comfy sofas. Dogs are welcome outside on the patio. café Stella’s food is also based in rousseau’s french roots. “It is comfort food,” he says with a smile. “It is simple and classic.” french onion soup is the only food item café Stella shares with Stelle mare, the upscale french bistro overlooking the Bird refuge, owned by rousseau, his wife Kim, and eva ein for the past 16 years.

The french dishes include boeuf bourguignon, crepes, and salad nicoise. american classics are burgers (chicken, lamb, beef, salmon or veggie), grilled ahi tuna salad, and prime rib. Breakfast is served all day.

The soup is one of many “Nibbles,” small plates reasonably priced, such as sweet potato fries, lamb sliders, macaroni and cheese, fried artichokes, sautéed shrimp, beer-steamed mussels, a cheese plate, among others.

The daily happy hour isn’t limited to the bar. “Sit anywhere you like!,” exclaims rousseau, reinforcing cafe Stella’s welcoming atmosphere.

—Julia McHugH

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