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What do fava beans, peregrine falcons and Rudolf steiner have to do with winemaking? each represents an aspect of earth-friendly viticulture that is being embraced by an expanding number of wineries in the santa Ynez valley.

the sustainable practices of local vineyards— ranging from organic methods to biodynamic farming to low-impact packaging—may be healthier for the planet and for wine-lovers, but how do green vintages measure up on quality?

according to Bob Wesley, proprietor of The Winehound, not all sustainable wines are equal. “don’t assume that organic wines are better by definition,” he warns. “I’ve tasted some that were just plain bad and others that spoiled without sulfites to preserve them. three local wineries that I’d recommend are alma Rosa, ampelos and beckmen.” also in sta. Rita hills is ampelos cellars, founded in 2001 by Peter and Rebecca Work. this vineyard was the first in santa barbara County and among the first in the United states to be certified sustainable, organic and biodynamic. on its website (www.ampeloscellars.com), ampelos distinguishes the three designations:

Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards (http:// www.almarosawinery.com) began farming organically in 1983, and was the first wine grower in santa barbara County to become certified organic by the California Certified organic farmers, in 1999. In their 100+ acres in santa Ynez’s st. Rita hills, owners Richard and Thekla Sanford substitute chemical herbicides and pesticides with mechanical weed control, beneficial insects and rodent-controlling peregrine falcons.

Sustainability “develops economically viable ecosystems and enhances the quality of the environment, so that farmlands remain productive indefinitely.”

Organic Farming is the “‘zero impact’ process of producing food naturally by avoiding the use of synthetic fertilizers and harmful chemicals to influence the growth of crops.”

Biodynamics “takes the notion of ‘organic’ further by holistically treating the entire vineyard as a living ecological, self-sustaining system [while] harnessing the earth’s cycles in accordance with moon phases and gravitational forces to enhance fruit flavor, production and heartiness.” ampelos incorporates other environmental practices that enhance its sustainability, such as: using solar power; producing compost; eliminating bottled water; purchasing carbon neutral barrels; and planting fava beans and sweet peas as a cover crop to improve the soil between harvests.

“this winery is best known for its pinots,” explains Wesley, who singles out the 2007 Pinot noir – Rho as an excellent choice. “their cool growing climate results in a wonderful wine with a luscious, almost silky texture.” established by brothers Tom and Steve Beckmen in 1994, Beckmen Vineyards (www.beckmenvine yards.com) is a small estate winery specializing in Rhone and bordeaux varietals. In 2006, its 365-acre vineyard near Los olivos converted to 100% biodynamic farming after extensive research and evaluation, earning certification two years later. according to the biodynamic farming and Gardening association, scientist Rudolf steiner developed this holistic, sometimes controversial approach in the 1920s. “It called for new thinking in every aspect of the food system…in order to bring health to the land and local communities.” the result? “since we’ve gone biodynamic, we have produced some of our best wines ever,” steve states; beckmen vineyards was also selected as one of the “top 100 Wineries in the World” by Wine & Spirits magazine in 2007.

Chosen as a top pick in Wesley’s store is their 2009 estate Grenache. “I find it to be very well-balanced and not overwhelming, with a delightful aroma of raspberry, black cherry, black pepper and other spices.” he is not alone in his praise. an earlier vintage gained international fame when the winery’s 2007 estate Grenache was served by the White house itself at a 2009 state dinner honoring the Indian Prime Minister.

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You can find these and many other high-quality organic and biodynamic wines at The Winehound, 1221 Chapala St., 805845-5247, www.winehound.com.

Autumn colors in Santa Barbara show up first in the Farmer’s Market: purple grapes and eggplant, bright red, orange and yellow tomatoes, and the earth tones of the sweet winter squash abound. Children are back in school, the days get shorter, and the urge to provide comfort food for our families and friends draws us back into the kitchen.

During the fall I like to start using an assortment of winter squash in my cooking. (This group of vegetables is named after the Naraganset Indian word askutasquash.) Included in this category are green acorn, the ribbed Gold Nugget sugar pumpkin, the smooth calabazas, the striped turban, the Blue Hubbard, and a personal favorite, the butternut squash.

Butternut squash, with its sweet, earthy flavor, its smooth texture, and high vitamin content has been a favorite with my children since they started eating solid food. Simmering the peeled golden chunks in a little lightly salted spring water, just enough to cover, and pureeing them in the food processor is still a favorite dish alongside grilled meat and a green salad. Sprinkle it with fresh parsley or thyme and it’s gorgeous as well as delicious.

There are some other very simple ways to use butternut squash that almost don’t need a recipe. Following are a couple of suggestions for that, as well as a few more complex recipes for infusing your fall with flavor, color and style!

Roasted Fall Vegetables

(Serves 8 as a side dish, 4 as a main course)

These are terrific served with grilled chicken breasts (marinated first in olive oil, lemon juice, fresh herbs and a spoon or two of mustard), or as a main course over brown rice or couscous.

2 red peppers, seeded and cut in 1-1/2” squares

2 red onions, peeled and cut in 1” cubes

1 lb. butternut squash, peeled and cut in 1” cubes

6 small red or white boiling potatoes, cut in 1” cubes

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

3 T. olive oil 2 tsp. dried thyme

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Toss the vegetables, olive oil and thyme together. Spread out on an oiled metal half sheet pan and place in the oven. After 20 minutes, stir and loosen with spatula. Vegetables are done after 35 to 45 minutes of baking.

Winter Squash and Apple Soup with fresh Ginger

(Serves 6 for a starter)

This recipe is so versatile. You can vary the vegetables, the herbs, change the stock to vegetable stock, add a touch of cream, etc.! This is how I make all pureed vegetable soups. I usually use homemade chicken or vegetable stock and it does make a difference in the final product, but the new boxes of “homemade style” stocks are quite good.

1-2 T. safflower or light olive oil

1 yellow onion, peeled and diced

1 leek, white part only, cleaned and sliced

3 cloves garlic

2 tsp. minced fresh ginger (peeled first, of course)

1-1/2 lbs. winter squash

2 tart apples (such as Granny Smith) peeled and chopped

1/4 cup white rice

1 quart chicken stock or vegetable stock

Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat and sauté the leek and onion until they begin to soften. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté another 3 minutes. Put the squash, apple chunks and rice into the mixture and cover with stock. Simmer covered for 40 minutes or until the squash and apple chunks are tender. Puréee in batches in the blender. This freezes well for up to three months, or keep in the refrigerator for up to a week. Heat through to serve, adding a spoon of cream or a dollop of yogurt.

Pumpkin, Prosciuto and Red Pepper Lasagna (Serves 12)

This is a party dish. It’s delicious, unusual and can be assembled ahead and baked an hour before serving. To make this lighter and quicker, 4 cups of prepared marinara sauce, mixed with a cup of light cream could be a substituted for the creamy cheese sauce in this recipe. Serve with crusty Italian bread, heated for five minutes at 350 degrees and then sliced, and a crisp salad.

Filling:

4 T. unsalted butter

2 yellow onions, diced

6 cups peeled, diced cooking pumpkin or butternut squash

3 red peppers, seeded, cut into 1-inch squares

3 T. olive oil salt and pepper

Sauce:

8T. unsalted butter

1/2 cup unbleached flour

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

2 cups light cream

1 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

1/4 tsp. nutmeg salt and pepper to taste

Assembly:

1-1/4 lbs. lasagna noodles, cooked al dente and drained

1/2 lb diced prosciutto

(another smokey ham would be fine)

1/4 cup fresh sage leaves

1 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

2 cups grated mozzarella cheese

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Butter a 10 x 15 inch pan.

Prepare the filling:

1) Toss the squash and pepper with olive oil and roast on a sheet pan for about 30 minutes. Set aside.

2) Sauté onion in butter over medium heat until very tender, stirring as necessary to keep from burning, about 15 minutes. Toss with squash, season with salt and pepper. Reset oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare the sauce:

1) Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Slowly add stock, 1/2 cup at a time, whisking and cooking as you add it. Add the cream and cook until thick and smooth. Stir in Parmesan, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

Assemble:

1) Line the bottom of the pan with noodles. Sprinkle with half the diced Prosciutto and 1/3 of the sauce. Scatter with mozzarella cheese and sage leaves. Cover with more noodles, then all the vegetable filling, more cheese, and a cup of Parmesan. Make another layer of noodles and top with the remaining ham, another 1/3 sauce and the remaining sage. The final layer has noodles, sauce and all the remaining cheeses. Bake the lasagna 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes before cutting.

Lentil Soup with Vegetables and Pasta

(Serves 6—8)

This soup is even better made ahead. Serve it as a main course with salad and bread, making a hearty, nutritious dinner.

1 cup lentils, rinsed and picked over for pebbles

2 cups thinly sliced savoy cabbage

1 cup cauliflower florets

1 cup peeled, diced (half inch) butternut squash

1 large yellow onion, peeled and cut into half inch dice

1 large red pepper, seeded and cut in half inch dice

1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

1 rib celery, thinly sliced

3/4 cup freshly grated parmigiano cheese

10 cups water

1 cup small shell pasta

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper to taste

1/2 cup fresh Italian parsley

Place all vegetables, water and 1/4 cup cheese in a large soup pot. Bring to a boil, and reduce heat to simmer the soup, covered for 40 minutes. All vegetables should be soft and tender. Add the pasta, and cook until al dente (meaning tender yet still firm to the tooth), another 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the olive oil and parsley and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot, passing the remaining cheese.