Food+Home Magazine - Fall 2023

FOOD + HOME

FALL 2023

PLUS:

MR. NATURAL, KELLY BROWN

DAFOE WINES

YES STORE FINDS A HOME

TEA AT THE BELMOND WINE PAIRINGS

FALL RECIPES AND MORE!

CASUAL ELEGANCE

SPANISH STYLE MEETS MODERN LIVING

Architecture by Harrison Design, Santa Barbara.

Are you considering orthopedic surgery?

Harvard trained orthopedic surgeon, Richard Scheinberg, has extensive experience in the néw and developing field of Orthobiologics which utilizes your own bodies healing abilities in the form of Stem Cells and PRP(concentrated platelets) to treat joint and musculoskeletal problems which previously required arthroscopic or joint replacement surgeries.

“Having performed thousands of surgical procedures I know how challenging recovery from those procedures can be. Prior to considering surgery you should consider the less invasive option of injection of your own stem cells in combination with concentrated platelets. The procedure is safe with excellent outcomes in the majority of patients who regain significant pain relief and function in a short period of time. To determine whether you are a candidate please call my office for a consultation.

French Country Cuisine

Come to our house...

Stella Mare’s focuses on French Country Bistro cuisine, emphasizing on classic and seasonal dishes paired with French and American wines. We also offer a wide selection of beers as well as handcrafted cocktails from our Full Bar. Stella Mare’s has been known and recognized for hosting Private Dining Events and offers an excellent selection of private dining rooms. From intimate events of 10 to fully customized events of 70 to 130, Stella mare’s is the ultimate destination for social events such as Wedding receptions, Showers, Rehearsal Dinners, after wedding brunch, baby showers and more as well as Corporate Events.

Hours:

Lunch: Tuesday-Friday from 12-2pm

Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday from 5 to 9pm

Brunch: Sat-Sun from 10am to 2pm

FALL 2023

Features

25

Mr. Natural Natural Café founder Kelly Brown celebrates 30 years of great food.

30

Tea done right at The Belmond El Encanto.

46

Designer Madeline Stuart shares her love for the SB life.

52

The Yes Store arrives at La Arcada with a permanent home.

70

Winemaker Rob Dafoe traces his journey from the slopes to the vineyards.

PASEO I & II

Cover

PublIsher & PresIdent

Philip Kirkwood

phil@food-home.com

dInIng & CoPy edItor

Jeff Miller

WIne edItor

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

travel edItor

Leslie A. Westbrook

ContrIbutors

Raymond Bloom

Angela Borda

Christine Cowles

Lisa Cullen

Danielle Fahrenkrug

Nick Franklin

Laurence Hauben

Geneva Ives

Lynette La Mere

Nancy Ransohoff

Megan Waldrep

PhotograPhy

Jim Bartsch

Michael Brown

Joshua Curry

Eliot Crowley

Mehosh Dziadzio

Braulio Godinez

Ashley Hardin

Aron Ives

Katherine Knowlton

Kim Reierson

Eamonn McGeough

Shelly Vinson

soCIal medIa Consultant

Kara Pearson

ContaCt InformatIon

P.O. Box 20025, Santa Barbara, CA 93120 (805) 455-4756

www.food–home.com

Food and Home (ISSN# 1533-693X) is published quarterly by Metro Inc. and single copies are provided to selected homeowners free of charge. Unless otherwise noted, all photographs, artwork, and designs printed in Food & Home are the sole property of Metro Inc. and may not be duplicated or reprinted without Metro Inc.’s express written permission. Food & Home and Metro Inc. are not liable for typographical or production errors or the accuracy of information provided by advertisers. Readers should verify advertised information with the advertisers. Food & Home and Metro Inc. reserve the right to refuse any advertising. Food & Home® is a registered trademark of Metro, Inc. Copyright © 2019. All inquiries may be sent to: Metro Media Services, P.O. Box 20025, Santa Barbara, CA 93120, or call (805) 455-4756, or e-mail: info@food-home.com. Unless otherwise noted, all photographs, artwork, and designs printed in Food & Home are the sole property of Metro Inc. and may not be duplicated or reprinted without Metro Inc.’s express written permission. Food & Home and Metro Inc. are not liable for typographical or production errors or the accuracy of information provided by advertisers. Readers should verify advertised information with the advertisers.

Luxury Dinnerware ~ Wedding Registy ~ Jewelry & Gifts

Quality & Craftsmanship

Quality & Craftsmanship

Quality & Craftsmanship

Montecito Kitchens customizes a plan for your exact space, style, and budget.

Montecito Kitchens customizes a plan for your exact space, style, and budget.

Montecito Kitchens customizes a plan for your exact space, style, and budget.

Montecito Kitchens is an accomplished design and construction firm delivering skilled and proven craftsmanship from start to finish. Our workmanship is guaranteed. References are gladly furnished.

Montecito Kitchens is an accomplished design and construction firm delivering skilled and proven craftsmanship from start to finish. Our workmanship is guaranteed. References are gladly furnished.

Montecito Kitchens is an accomplished design and construction firm delivering skilled and proven craftsmanship from start to finish. Our workmanship is guaranteed. References are gladly furnished.

DON GRAGG 805.453.0518

DON GRAGG 805.453.0518

www.MONTECITOKITCHENS.com

DON GRAGG 805.453.0518

www.MONTECITOKITCHENS.com

LICENSE 951784

www.MONTECITOKITCHENS.com

LICENSE 951784

LICENSE 951784

brassbearbrewing.com

Laurence Hauben

Born and raised in France, Laurence began her culinary training at age three. A cooking teacher and chef, she is available for small group and private events, specializing in seasonal menus centered around Santa Barbara’s organic produce and local seafood. To learn more, visit www.marketforays.com

Geneva Ives

Geneva Ives is a local writer with a big appetite, cute little boy, and sweet ’66 El Camino. She also writes for USA Today and is the author of “Unique Eats and Eateries of Santa Barbara.” Feast along on Instagram: @hi_geneva

Jeff Miller

Jeff Miller is a longtime newspaper writer/editor who now writes books and plays. His novels can be found at amazon.com/author/ jdmillerauthor or at Lulu.com under J.D. Miller.

Nancy Ransohoff

Nancy Ransohoff is a writer and editor who’s worked at Bon Appetit, Architectural Digest, and Frommer’s guidebooks. She currently writes for 805 Living magazine and covers Santa Barbara area restaurants for Westways magazine. She was a writer and editor for the guidebook “Hometown Santa Barbara,” and loves to help show off this beautiful place we’re lucky enough to call home.

Hana-Lee Sedgwick

Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a writer, editor, and marketing consultant born and raised in Santa Barbara. A certified specialist of wine and sommelier, she loves sharing the world of wine with people, and happily spends her downtime eating, drinking, and wandering throughout California wine country and beyond. Follow her on Instagram @wanderandwine.

Megan Waldrep

Megan Waldrep is a nationally published writer, columnist, and founder of the Partners of Commercial Fishermen, an online community for girlfriends, fiancés, and wives of commercial fishermen. Her husband, Chris Dabney, is a spiny lobsterman who fishes on the rocky coast of the Channel Islands, California. In the off-season, they live in Wilmington, NC, where Megan takes advantage of the bicoastal life by writing from both coasts. To learn more, visit meganwaldrep.com, follow on Instagram at @megan.waldrep, or listen to the Partners of Commercial Fishermen Podcast on Apple, Spotify, Amazon, and wherever podcasts are available.

Leslie A. Westbrook

Leslie A. Westbrook is an award-winning journalist who covers travel, food, design, and people. She also assists clients around the globe desiring to sell fine art, antiques, and collectibles via international auction houses. Leslie can be reached for a complimentary consultation at LeslieAWestbrook@gmail.com

For the first time, Celebrity will visit one of the Caribbean’s most exclusive destinations, Perfect Day at CocoCay, Royal Caribbean’s award-winning private island. Starting next summer, two of our award-winning ships, Celebrity BeyondSM and Celebrity Reflection® will call the tropics home. Choose from 3- & 4-night weekend sailings for a quick getaway or sail year-round from South Florida on 6- & 8 -night journeys. Perfect Day lets you escape the everyday.

Cool off in the largest freshwater pool in the Bahamas. Swim up to the bar for a refreshing tropical cocktail. Discover the ultimate in relaxation from the privacy of an Overwater Cabana. Get your adrenaline flowing on North America’s tallest waterslide. Share a selfie from a helium balloon soaring 450 feet above the island. Whether you want to chill out or live it up, Perfect Day at CocoCay is the perfect place to do it all!

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TO BOOK WITH CELEBRITY CRUISES CURRENT OFFER!

FIRSTS

all day for prepping. We got our delivery and when we opened on Monday we had a line out the door.”

That was 30 years ago. Over those decades Brown opened restaurants from San Luis Obispo to Simi Valley. At one point he was running 15 establishments simultaneously. Not bad for a “failure.”

The Kelly Brown story took a while to come into focus.

“I grew up in Newport Beach, came to school here [City College] in ’76, then played for 10 years,” Brown said. That playing took him from Maui to Steamboat Springs, with stops at Kauai, Park City, and Sun Valley in between, mostly working in food. “When you’re transient, you’re pretty much limited to the restaurant business,” he said.

A natural winner

by Jeff mIller

The first step to success is often failure. Failures like Walt Disney, Thomas Edison, and J.K. Rowling all agree on that. And you can add Kelly Brown to that list.

For Brown, the watershed night was May 7, 1993. “I screwed up,” he recalled.

Brown and a finance partner were opening The Natural Café at 508 State Street. The idea was good, clean food at a reasonable price. The problem was, to get that food on the plates you had to order it.

“I tried to open on Friday,” Brown recalled. “But if you wanted your order delivered on Thursday, you had to call it in on Monday.” What with

all the pressure of hiring staff, developing the menu, dealing with code enforcement, etc. and etc., “I forgot,” he said.

So that Friday night at 6 o’clock, the doors opened but only half the menu was available. What to do? “We served free food.”

“I think we served 100 meals that night,” he said. “Those people told their friends and the next night we did 200 dinners.” Again, free. “Sunday we closed

“The problem was, I was hitting 26 and working with guys who were 40 years old,” Brown noted. “They’d been doing it for 20 years. I could see how you could just fall into doing that.” Meanwhile, the owner of his current restaurant was off heli-skiing in Canada. “Oh,” he realized, “that’s the job I want.”

So he made a move, signing up for a restaurant training program. “Two things happened,” Brown said. “My workload doubled and my pay went down by half

because I came off the floor.”

But it was worth it. “I started in restaurants when I was 15,” Brown said. He’d run the usual gamut, dishwasher, prep cook, busboy, etc. But in the program he learned how to run a restaurant, rather than just work in one.

After that he returned to Santa Barbara, bought a boat, and lived on it in the harbor. He worked hard waiting tables, saved his money, sold his boat, and eventually went in halves with an investor on the first Natural Café. “It was $110,000,” he said. “Today it would be $750 grand.”

For that first Café, at 508 State, they signed a five-year lease with a five-year option. “The rent was $4,000 a month for 2,000 square feet,” Brown said. “Everyone thought we were crazy.”

Over the years he had come to appreciate simplicity in food. “Clean protein, clean starch, and some veggies,” he said. “That’s the kind of thing I wanted to do. You go to a restaurant, 95 percent of the time you overeat, and it’s not necessarily good for you. So much saturated fat, refined sugars, and sodium.”

He wanted food you could eat every day and still be healthy. Some people did exactly that: dine there every day. “I’ve had people come up and thank me,”

Photos by Aron Ives

“Every restaurant should have great food, whether it’s steak or a freaking chimichanga!”

Natural Café founder, Kelly Brown

he said. “They lost 30 pounds eating at my restaurant. Very gratifying.”

His big sellers? “Not much has changed over the years,” he said. “Cabo fish tacos, veggie lasagna, veggie burritos, the Zen burger, the Old Town Salad — still huge for us today. It’s got to taste good but be good for you as well. Charbroiled turkey burger, chicken enchiladas, no lard in the beans. I think people are moving toward good, clean protein.”

Brown shoots for 75 percent organic, depending on price and availability. “We work the produce market every day,” he said.

If you’ll recall from a few paragraphs ago, Kelly Brown started working in restaurants at age 15. He’s now 65. That’s half a century in the food biz. What has he learned?

“Three things,” he said. “A. Every restaurant should have great food, whether it’s steak or a freaking chimichanga. B: Great service. We want to be the second-happiest place on the planet, because you can’t beat Disneyland. C. Value. We’re not talking cheap. We’re talking tasty and affordable.”

Then Brown added a couple subsections. “A good, clean environment, and a staff that feels valued. If they’re happy to be at work, guess what? The guests will be happy to be there too.”

Brown closed the original Natural Café location in January, after 30 years. His issues with the city’s management of State Street are well known in Santa Barbara. But still he has five locations up and running, and, as he puts it, “Life is good, man.” And with his daughter Madeleine running day-to-day operations, it appears the natural life of the café will go on and on.

But at this point, after 50 years in restaurants, 30 of them at The Natural, it’s natural to step back and reflect. One of his favorite memories has to do with a guy who came up to him a while back and said, “I was there that first night. It was good.”

“Yeah,” Brown responded. “I definitely made a mistake. But it was free.”

www.thenaturalcafe.com

@thenaturalcafe_official

The perfect bite…

If you’re looking for a light dinner before the show or a tasty appetizer you can share at the table, the Maryland- styled crab cakes from Bluewater Grill will definitely do the trick. Served with a tangy house made remoulade, scallion oil and micro greens, the fresh blue crab flavors make for a great pair to the Sauvignon Blanc from Storm Winery, Santa Barbara County. A side of fries works great, too.—Raymond Bloom

Bluewater Grill Santa Barbara. Located steps from the beach at 15 East Cabrillo Blvd. 805-8455121. @bluewatergrill

Photo by Chuck Place

Kelly Brown

Sake sophistication

Honoring the Japanese tradition of rice wine

by hana-lee sedgWICk

Since opening its doors in early 2019, Rosewood Miramar Beach has been lauded for its immaculate beachfront setting, luxury accommodations, plush amenities, and — last, but certainly not least — its array of culinary delights. Standing tall among its signature restaurants is the one Michelin-starred Caruso’s, but just last year, the resort added another feather to its culinary cap with the opening of AMA Sushi, an omakase and edomae-style sushi bar.

Connoisseurs of traditional Japanese flavors will be drawn to AMA’s two distinct dining experiences: the omakase tasting and the four-course prix fixe experience. Regardless of which you choose, though, expect to be treated to a symphony of flavors honoring Japan’s rich culinary heritage, from meticulously crafted sushi and sashimi to exquisitely constructed desserts. Equally compelling is AMA’s beverage menu, which features signature cocktails inspired by traditional Japanese ingredients, as well as an extensive selection of wine, beer, and, most notably, sake.

Seeking the story behind AMA’s impressive sake selection, I chatted with Rosewood’s

renowned director of wine, Daniel Fish. With 25 years in the restaurant world under his belt, including at one- and two-Michelin-star restaurants, Fish is no stranger to the art of curating exceptional beverage lists. In fact, he built Rosewood Miramar Beach’s wine program, now featuring 2,500 selections and 19,000 bottles, from the ground up. Here, he shares his inspiration behind the sake menu at AMA.

Before we dive into AMA’s sake list, what qualities do you look for in a wine in order to add it to your beverage program? I have a saying: “Good people and good wines, that is who I want to work with.” It’s really important for me to know the story behind the wine, about

the estate, and the winemaker. When formulating the sake menu for AMA, what helped guide your selections? Creating the sake program was about finding a balance between small, more traditional breweries and some of the new and exciting breweries in Japan, [with] a strong effort to represent many of the regions of Japan. I sought out some historical breweries and also found a sake from one of very few female tojis in Japan.

How would you describe the interplay between the food and beverage offerings at AMA? The sake program was created with the idea of balance, history, and tradition. Although I love sake to pair with sushi, the wine by the glass program at AMA features some incredible, high-

acid, mineral-driven white wines from around the world and, of course, Champagnes, which also beautifully compliment the cuisine.

With sake growing in popularity, how do you curate a selection that both honors its roots and appeals to a contemporary palate? I focused on sourcing a lot of clean, flavorful Junmai Daiginjo sakes that would be easier to enjoy for the contemporary palate, while also bringing in some sakes with more traditional style, and a few with incredible depth and complexity. I really tried to bring in sakes that would appeal to a variety of palates and stylistic preferences.

AMA’s extensive sake offerings can be enjoyed by the glass or bottle, or expertly paired alongside the omakase experience. Learn more at www. rosewoodhotels.com/en/miramarbeach-montecito/dining/amasushi.

Left: Hinode cocktail made sparkling sake, mezcal, pineapple liqueur and dry vermouth. Right: Traditional Edomae Carpaccio. Lower: Kinmedai Nigri sushi.

Photos by Jakob N. Layman

The American Safari®

Follow the steps of Meriwether Lewis into a vast wilderness—37,000 acres encompassing pine-forested foothills, vast grasslands and a winding 10-mile stretch of clear-blue river. You’ll discover all kinds of adventure, from fly-fishing and whitewater rafting to horseback riding and hot air ballooning. At the end of each day, you’ll be nibbling on five-star cuisine, then resting your head inside a luxury tent surrounded by nature. This is The American Safari. And you’ll only find it at Montana’s premier luxury ranch resort, The Resort at Paws Up®

Enchanting afternoon

by leslIe a. Westbrook

There’s nothing quite as civilized, relaxing, and satisfying than afternoon tea. Initially invented to stave off hunger between lunch and dinner, the English tradition was practiced around the world when the “sun never set on the English empire.” According to the British Museum, we can “thank the seventh Duchess of Bedford, Anna Maria Russell, for the invention of afternoon tea,” circa 1840. Due to increasing urbanization and the rise in industrialization (including the spread of gas lighting in England), the evening meal was becoming later and later — like 9 p.m. The duchess was hungry and asked for some tea, sandwiches, and sweets. The British Museum also informs that the Victorians had several versions of “tea” and even had “at-home” teas, which were often riotous, standing-room only affairs!

The lovely El Encanto, a Belmond hotel, offers its sweet version on weekday afternoons in the tranquil dining room with a distant ocean view. This is not your Queen Elizabeth’s afternoon tea or a standing-room only rumpus, but one just as lovely and filling and congenial — with a California twist.

Tea begins with “Astro botanical infusions,” a choice of teas delineated by zodiac signs that include caffeine level notations in the menu. A complimentary glass of Moet & Chandon champagne, which pairs nicely with the sweet and savory treats, is also offered.

I picked my birth sun sign, Gemini “Queen

of Quenching Curiosities,” a blend of white and green tea with notes of juicy watermelon, floral jasmine, sweet pomegranate, and fresh rose. The benefits noted in the very pretty menu: hydrating, anti-oxidant rich, nourishes skin, and cooling.

My friend Cynthia, a Leo, had the “Queen of Courage, Tea of the Sun,” a slightly smoky, rich black tea with notes of bright orange and creamy vanilla rich in vitamin C and promising to be beneficial in boosting cognitive function, to support heart health, and to uplift mood.

The teas were brought in small individual teapots along with a “three-minute” hourglass in the event we wished to time the strength of our infusions. Then it was time to go savory and sweet.

Tea sandwiches — their crusts property trimmed leaving the lovely soft and spongy centers — were artfully placed on two levels of the three-tier stand. The presentations were as tasty as they were colorful. Mélange of chicken with herbs from the resort’s garden and mustard seed was pretty on a reddish beetroot levain (sourdough) bread, as was the turmeric yellow bread filled with traditional cucumber with lemon and dill. Tasty farm egg was flavorful on pain de campagne. Smoked salmon mousse with a lemon-zested cream fraiche and garden dill was rich and filling on a gray charcoal loaf.

The top tier displayed sweets almost too pretty to eat – but before digging into those,

the sandwich plates were swept away and replaced with warm scones fresh from the oven. Who can resist slathering clotted cream and strawberry basil jam on a freshly baked scone? We couldn’t. Allotted two scones each — buttermilk, fresh rosemary and lemon zest — we each ate one and took one home that would, hopefully, last until breakfast the following morning.

The “divine desserts” were miniature works of art that included blackberry cheesecake with lavender essence, tiny profiteroles flavored with thyme and vanilla bean from Madagascar, a darling coconut mango napoleon (apparently assembled by Lilliputians), and a chocolate banana gateau made of cocoa cake, chocolate mousse, carnalized bananas, and ganache.

Sipping tea, munching on tea sandwiches, and sharing quiet conversation far from traffic jams, road construction and more, is a wonderful way to while away an afternoon, celebrate a special occasion with a friend or family, or to just slow down and smell the tea leaves. Sated from sandwiches and scones with clotted cream, we took the sweet treats home as well, to be savored as a remembrance of things past. Besides, a surprise ending was delivered with our bill: a pink globe-shaped raspberry mousse topped with fluttering 24-karat gold leaf. A perfect, alchemic ending.

AFFORDABLE ELEGANCE & LUXURY FOR YOUR OUTDOOR SPACE

Our beautiful furniture adds luxury and sophistication to any outdoor space. We o er the largest selection of wicker, concrete, resin, and Grade-A teak furnishings in California at the best prices, guaranteed. Tired of drop shipping and overpriced furniture? Shop Teak Warehouse for fully assembled white glove delivery and free shipping on orders over $2,500.

A day at the Ritz

by leslIe a. Westbrook

The next time you shop Costco, skip the hot dogs and food samples and head a little west for a sunset cocktail or meal with ocean views at The Ritz-Carlton Bacara, Santa Barbara.

The regional destination, set on 78 voluptuous acres, is not just for tourists. Lucky for those who live in the Goodland or nearby, there’s a new executive chef in town who came all the way from Dohar, Qatar. Chef Susanto is making not only culinary waves and garnering kudos at the snazzy beachfront resort, he’s also putting the hotel on the culinary map while overseeing several restaurants on property (each with its own excellent chefs), room service, and more.

From a decadently delicious homemade tagliatelle topped with lobster and truffles at the sexy and elegant Angel Oak (the resort’s high-end restaurant manned by chef de cuisine Josh Kellim) to late night nibbles and a cigar, there’s something for everyone.

Standout dishes at resort dining venues include house-made burrata with a strawberry vinaigrette at The Bistro — even tastier outdoors around the firepit tables and a distant Pacific view. The Japanese-inspired San Setto

(which means sunset) is a sublime spot for sushi and a signature sunset cocktail, tucked into a peaceful dining room and ocean view patio that’s Angel Oak-adjacent.

Sunday brunch at Angel Oak is a new offering that includes live music, artisan craft cocktails (don’t miss the Bloody Marys), and dishes like duck confit hash, eggs Benedict, blueberry banana pancakes, freshly baked pastries, and tranquil ocean views from the outdoor glassed-in patio.

Wine your thang? Enjoy fine wine tasting at the fab Ritz Carlton Bacara Wine Tasting Room (open 2-8 p.m.) with its uniquely curated Santa Barbara and SLO county wines

and small bites menu. Certainly, you’ll find the usual suspects (Curran, Stolpman, Grassini) but explore some lesser-known sips from the Central Coast like Shokrian Vineyards (Los Alamos) and Scar of the Sea (San Luis Obispo).

If you prefer leisure to gluttony, book a heavenly spa treatment or CBD pedicure at the 48,000-square-foot three-level spa and spend the day luxuriating at the adults-only saltwater pool with jaunts to the relaxation room, indoor spa, steam, and sauna.

To top it all off? Check out the recently launched “Cohiba Experience at The Bacara.” Pretend you’re on a romantic tropical island on the outdoor deck overlooking the pool and palm trees with a mojito and Cohiba cigar. There’s live Latin music on weekends, a groovy vibe, nibbles, and yes, the strong fragrance of smoke in the air for those inclined to puff the night away.

Did I mention that locals get 10 percent off all food and beverage?

CELEBRATING OVER 75 YEARS OF TRAVEL

Locally owned and operated, we are Santa Barbara’s travel experts.

Our knowledgeable and experienced advisors can help you navigate the world. We specialize in cruise and custom tour planning and as a member of the exclusive Virtuoso Travel Network have relationships with the best luxury travel companies and hotels worldwide.

For peace of mind when you travel.

SANTA BARBARA

1028 State Street

Santa Barbara, CA 93101

(805) 966-3116

MONTECITO

1485 East Valley Road #9 Montecito, CA 93108 (805) 969-7746

Lisovskaya

Britney Oysters

by laurenCe hauben Marketforays.com

When I was a child in Northern France, oysters were a New Year’s Eve tradition. Baskets filled with dozens of oysters packed in fresh seaweed arrived at my grandmother’s house. The ceremonial opening was performed by my uncles, the mollusks presented on the half shell with fresh lemon, bread, and butter. Small children are not generally fond of such fare, but all anyone had to tell me was that a food was for grownups and I would pretend to like it. So I learned to eat oysters early.

Years later I found myself in Cancale, the oyster capital of Brittany. We admired the oyster beds, breathing in the bracing scent of the Atlantic. It was early spring, before tourist season. Most restaurants were closed but there were oysters for sale, so fresh, irresistible. Over my companion’s objections I bought six dozen, both the briny deep-shelled ones and the more highly prized “plates,” delicate and sweet.

“What are you going to do with them?” he said. “We have no utensils, we don’t even know where we are staying tonight?”

“I’ll figure something out. They are too fabulous to pass up.”

So we continued our journey with the oysters in the trunk that afternoon, me the improviser, he the dubious one.

Driving in the French countryside, one sees homemade signs offering “chambres d’hôtes.” Predating Airbnb, they typically offer one or two spare bedrooms in a house, nothing fancy but clean and a good way to meet the locals.

Just after sunset I noticed one such sign by a cute little farm. We knocked, and an old man opened. The room was available. We settled in, then I went down to the kitchen where the man and his wife had just sat down to a modest supper of bread and vegetable soup.

“I bought oysters in Cancale this afternoon,” I explained. “Would you like to share them with us?” Their eyes lit up with a huge smile.

As if by magic a chilled bottle of Muscadet appeared, chairs were pulled up for us, and the oysters shucked. We ate, answered questions about life and food in California, “not bad but not as good as seafood from Brittany,” laughed a lot, and went to bed happy. “You see,” I said, “I could have bought more.” He did not argue.

How to open oysters like a champion

World-champion oyster shucker Marcel Lesoille

turkey sausage Cloud eggs

Soft and fluffy cloud eggs tossed with turkey sausage, chives and Parmesan cheese. The perfect delicate and simple breakfast or brunch to revamp a typical egg dish.

(Serves: 4)

INGREDIENTS

4 eggs, separated

1/4 cup Parmesan cheese

1-2 tbsp fresh chives, chopped

3/4 cup cooked ground turkey sausage salt and pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking pan with parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, use an electric mixer to whip the egg whites until a fluffy stiff peak forms. Add the Parmesan cheese, 1-2 tablespoons of chives and cooked ground turkey sausage. Fold over to blend.

Divide the egg white batter into four circles on the baking pan and using a spoon press down gently the center to form a “nest.” Bake for 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and right away add the yolk to the center. Bake another 3 minutes. Serve immediately and garnish with extra chives and salt and pepper to taste.

NOTE: For higher altitude cook 4 minutes, 4 minutes. For a runnier yolk cook yolk 2-3 minutes.

Recipe by Danielle Fahrenkrug www.delightfulmomfood.com

(OYSTERS continued)

can open 38 oysters per minute, with admirable finesse. You can do it too, maybe not as fast, but using the same technique. A large cylindrical muscle keeps the oyster shut. It’s always located in the same spot. Hold the oyster in your left hand, the deep part of the shell in your palm, hinge pointing toward your wrist. About halfway up the right side along the edge is the muscle that keeps the shell shut. All you need to do is insert the point of a small knife to sever that muscle and the oyster will open, no force required. You then run your knife along the lid of the shell to release the veil, and voila.

PoaChed oysters WIth Wakame & herb butter

This recipe cooks the oysters just long enough to firm them up while respecting the delicacy of the mollusks. The bed of wakame seaweed is optional but adds a sophisticated touch.

Ingredients

1 dozen oysters

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

1/3 cup minced shallot

1/2 cup fresh or rehydrated wakame seaweed, chopped

1 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons vermouth

2 tablespoons minced parsley

2 tablespoons minced chives

1 tablespoon minced dill

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 ounces unsalted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

Rinse the oysters under cold running water. Do not immerse them. Shuck the oysters, taking care to reserve their water. Keep them chilled until ready to poach. Clean and reserve the shells.

Strain the water of the oysters through a fine sieve to remove any bits of shell, and pour into a saucepan. Add the wine, vermouth, shallot, thyme, and wakame.

Cook at a simmer until the wakame is tender. Strain the wakame, and place a spoonful of wakame in each clean oyster shell.

Return the liquid to the stove. Poach the oysters in the liquid for a few seconds each, just long enough to firm them up. Place an oyster on top of the wakame in each shell.

Meanwhile, return the liquid to the stove over high heat, and reduce to 1/3 cup. Add the herbs, lemon juice, and swirl in the butter. Taste and adjust, adding pepper and salt as needed. Spoon over the oysters, garnish with a pinch of fresh herbs, and serve.

Danielle Fahrenkrug

Give them a roast

Nothing brings out the pure goodness of fresh vegetables more than roasting. And carrots are particularly good at achieving the caramelization factor that renders the end product crisp on the outside while tender on the inside, with a sweetness that tantalizes the taste buds. Add some herb sauce and some good olive oil and you have a holiday side dish that tastes even better than it looks. Pair it with roasted short ribs, whipped potatoes, and a medium-body red wine. A glass of 2020 Ocean’s Ghost Pinot Noir from Babcock Winery in Santa Barbara County will do nicely.

roasted Carrots WIth tahInI herb sauCe

Ingredients:

For the carrots:

1 bunch rainbow carrots

Olive oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

Flaky sea salt and crushed black pepper

For the tahini herb sauce:

1⁄4 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons tahini

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons fresh herbs (dill, cilantro, chives, etc) salt and pepper to taste

2-3 tablespoons water to thin

For serving:

Flaky sea salt Fresh herbs

Method:

For the carrots:

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place carrots onto a rimmed baking sheet. Toss with olive oil, spices, salt, and pepper. Roast for 18-20 minutes, tossing halfway through, until lightly browned and tender.

For the tahini herb sauce: Add all dressing ingredients to a mixing bowl. Whisk until smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings as desired. Set aside.

To serve/assemble: Transfer carrots to a serving platter. Drizzle with tahini-herb sauce. Garnish with fresh herbs and flaky sea salt.

Recipe, photo and styling by Katherine Knowlton, private chef, caterer, and founder of Happy Chance Edibles. www.eathappychance.com

Ingredients for one 9-inch tart:

For the tart dough

1 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour*

1⁄4 cup powdered sugar

9 tablespoons cold butter

1 egg

Pinch of salt

For the Frangipane:

7 tablespoons (100 g) very soft butter

1⁄2 cup (100 g) caster sugar*

1 tablespoon orange zest

1 tablespoon lemon zest

1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste*

1 tablespoon dark rum, optional

2 large eggs

1 cup (100 g) super fine almond flour

1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt

6 to 8 fresh figs, halved or quartered Thyme honey drizzle, for garnish (optional)*

1 Happy Chance cannabis-infused blueberry cinnamon fruit bite, optional*

Make the tart dough: Pulse the flour, sugar, and salt together in the bowl of a food processor. Scatter the pieces of butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter is coarsely cut in. Add the egg and pulse until the

dough forms clumps. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and lightly knead the dough. Chill the dough, wrapped in plastic, for about 30 minutes before rolling.

Roll the dough: On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough out until about 1/8 inch thick. Turn dough into tart pan with removable bottom. Pierce crust all over with a fork. Place in the refrigerator while you prepare the frangipane.

Make the frangipane: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place the butter, sugar, lemon and orange zest and vanilla bean paste in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat for 6–8 minutes, or until light and fluffy.

Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the almond flour and salt mix to combine. Spoon into the chilled tart tin and spread until smooth.

Place the figs into the almond filling, pressing down slightly. Place the tart tin on a baking tray and cook for 45 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the oven and, while still hot, brush with the thyme honey. Enjoy with 1 Happy Chance blueberry cinnamon fruit bite.

Notes:

* To make the tart dough gluten free, substi-

Fig frangipane tart

tute a 1:1 amount of your favorite gluten free all-purpose flour.

* For the caster sugar, substitute equal parts cane sugar or other sweetener of choice. Substitute 1 teaspoon vanilla extract if not using vanilla bean or vanilla bean paste.

* To make thyme honey drizzle: Add thyme leaves to a clean jar. Fill the jar with your favorite honey.

Happy Chance is a female-founded cannabis company based in Santa Barbara. They offer a healthy alternative to the modern-day cannabis gummy with a low-dose fruit bite made with whole foods, natural sugars, and solventless rosin. One blueberry cinnamon fruit bite has 2.5 mg THC, .625 mg CBD, .625 mg CBN per serving. Ingredients: organic medjool dates, organic pumpkin seeds, organic blueberries, organic beets, nano-encapsulated cannabis extract, organic cinnamon, gum acacia. You can purchase at all local The Farmacy locations and Sespe Creek Collective in Ojai. Visit www. eathappychance.com for more info.

Recipe, photo and styling by Katherine Knowlton, private chef, caterer and founder of Happy Chance Edibles. www.eathappychance.com

Easy dinner hack

If you’re looking for a 10-minute dinner that basically requires boiling water, look no further.

PoaChed egg WIth smoked salmon and asParagus

Ingredients:

One fresh egg

3 ounces smoked salmon. (Cambridge House Royal)

3 ounces fresh asparagus (stems peeled)

2 tablespoons Hollandaise from a jar. (You can make your own, but using store-bought is just fine in a pinch. We like Primal Kitchen brands.)

1 teaspoon vinegar.

Method:

Bring water in a sauce pan to a boil. Add vinegar and then the egg. Turn down heat to medium and let the egg poach for two minutes.

Place asparagus in a pan with one inch of salted water. Cover and let steam on high for one minute.

In a small pan, gently heat the 2 tablespoons of hollandaise sauce just before use.

Place asparagus on a plate. Top with smoked salmon and sauce. Place egg on top and enjoy your amazing quick-fix dinner with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, Storm Winery, 2022.

You can find the hollandaise sauce and the Cambridge House Royal smoked salmon at Gelson’s.

CUSTOM

STYLE + DESIGN

Casual comfort

Fall weekends are for lounging in our outdoor spaces in cushion comfort while the weather is still warm. And cushions made of Sunbrella fabrics are the way to go. They’re easy to wash, extremely low maintenance, and mold/mildew resistant. Cushions use a slip-off cover that can be tossed in the laundry cycle to remove any dirt spots. They also come in a wide array of colors and shapes.

Available at Van Nuys Awnings. www.vannuysawning.com

Tub tech

California Faucets has introduced its groundbreaking ZeroDrain® technology for the bathtub. Just like the multi-award-winning sink version, the tub version offers a cleaner look, quicker installation, easier maintenance, and virtually clog-free operation.

Available at Economy Supply Company in Santa Barbara. www.economysb.com

Reclaimed luxury

The Adley Outdoor Reclaimed Teak Sofa is shown with the Crossword Organic Teak Side Table, a stylish and functional piece of furniture that adds a touch of natural elegance while also showing off the unique grain patterns and natural beauty of the teak wood, giving each piece a one-of-a-kind look.

Both products are available through TeakWarehouse.com as well as their two California showrooms in Los Angeles and San Diego.

NOT JUST FOR ARTISANS, this cotton canvas apron is modeled after traditional potter’s aprons with a center split that allows for ease and coverage whether walking or sitting. It comes with long, sturdy straps and two roomy side pockets. Designed in Santa Barbara by and sold exclusively at domecíl. www.domecil.com

The conceptual ovals tiles of Surf’s Up pay homage to both the surf life and the spirit of mid-century patterning. Available at TileCo. For the nearest location, visit tilecodist.com

Al fresco with Madeline Stuart

by leslIe a. Westbrook

Anyone who has the good fortune to live or spend time in Santa Barbara clearly understands why it’s often referred to as paradise. "Beauty — both natural and manmade — is abundant,” notes interior designer Madeline Stuart who admits she’s lucky to own a charming home in Santa Barbara’s historic El Caserio in the Presidio District. Stuart’s bustling design office is in Los Angeles, and she often finds herself jetting around the country adding her unique touch and expertise to projects from La Jolla to Montana to Fifth Avenue and beyond. But as a part-time resident and “full-time lover of this magical place,” she spends as much time at her downtown Santa Barbara retreat as she can.

“I come for rest and restoration, yet I inevitably find myself entertaining al fresco almost all year long,” says Stuart. “Although my garden is minuscule by Montecito standards, I have two distinct entertaining patios that provide completely different experiences for guests. A simple stucco fireplace, terra cotta-capped walls, and sand-set brick hardscape beckon my guests both before and after dinner. It’s where cocktails are served, and s’mores are devoured.”

Across the center of the garden — designed as a classic parterre — is the dining patio. Covered by a classic wood trellis, the table is encircled by Stuart’s collection of potted topiaries, vintage Japanese lanterns, and an ancient Greek olive jar, a gift from her mother.

“I love plunking flowers in antique terra cotta pitchers and setting the table with beautiful linens,” Stuart says. “One night, I might use my vintage sterling and English ironstone, on another evening the table may be set with rustic flatware and vintage Mexican pottery. Regardless of the accoutrements, my greatest joy

comes from lighting the fire and all the candles, engaging in marvelous conversation with friends over good food and terrific tequila, and knowing that there’s nowhere else I’d rather be than in my garden in my little corner of paradise.”

An outdoor Thanksgiving dinner is comfortable due to overhead heaters and the coastline and adjacent mountain range reflect light in a manner that’s completely unique and endlessly captivating. Fall, spring, winter, or summer, the livin’ is easy — and perfectly Madeline.

See Madeline Stuart Associates work at www.madelinestuart.com

MONTECITO LANDSCAPE

Creating beautiful gardens for over 50 years

“I love my new landscape, beyond my expectations. Spending more time outside has improved my mood and attitutde toward life. Just wish I had done it sooner!” S. C.

Call today for your Free Home Garden Consultation

Where luxury meets design

T his stunning master suite features Florence, a Brazilian white dolomite with soft gray veins, hinted with beautiful golden minerals. Dolomite is a durable stone that stands up to heavy traffic areas of the home and is a great alternative to marble in terms of price.

For more info on available slabs contact Forte Stone. 805-685-6202. 6464 Hollister Ave., Goleta. www.fortestone.com

CASUAL ELEGANCE

Redesigned Santa Barbara home combines a traditional Spanish-style exterior with modern living.

WRITTEN BY NANCY RANSOHOFF PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BARTSCH

Lead architect: Anthony Grumbine, Harrison Design Santa Barbara

Interior design: Barbara Lowenthal, Harrison Design Santa Barbara

Landscape design Margie Grace, Grace Design Associates

Custom cabinetry: Architectural Millwork of Santa Barbara

General contractor: Giffin & Crane, Santa Barbara

Large, custom-made Santa Barbara-style doors (built-in screen within a framed glass door) lead from the living room to an expansive outdoor living space that includes areas for entertaining, alfresco dining, and sitting in the shade of mature oak trees. While a feeling of spaciousness was created by opening up the interior, the house was extended by only 65 square feet, respecting the structure’s original footprint and features.

arrison Design has been quietly helping to make the Santa Barbara area an even more beautiful place for about 25 years. The award-winning architecture, interior design, and landscape architecture firm, founded in Atlanta in 1991, has seven offices across the country, with its Santa Barbara location established in 2004.

A recent project in Santa Barbara underscores the firm’s emphasis on working as a team to bring a client’s goals to life. The Spanish-style residence, built in 1925, was originally the chauffeur’s home and carriage house on a larger estate. “Many remodels and renovations throughout the years had been piled on top of themselves,” said Anthony Grumbine, AIA, the lead architect on the project and a principal at Harrison Design’s Santa Barbara office. “By gutting it all and getting back to a blank slate, we were able to make simple, strong moves of defining the living room, dining room, kitchen, entryway, etc., so each piece felt personal yet connected.”

Grumbine, working with the husband-and-wife homeowners; interior designer Barbara Lowenthal, also a principal at Harrison Design’s Santa Barbara office; and Santa Barbara-based general contractor Giffin & Crane, completely reconfigured the space to achieve the overarching goal of creating a livable and unfussy home that exudes a casual elegance. “It was a real collaboration,” said Lowenthal. While a feeling of spaciousness was created by opening up the interior, the house was extended by only 65 square feet, respecting the structure’s original footprint and features. The changes begin with a completely redesigned front entry stair and extend to moving the locations of the living room, dining room, and kitchen. Removing a third

Hbedroom allowed for a slightly larger primary bedroom and laundry room.

Living spaces now work seamlessly, with an easy, natural flow both inside and out that fits the homeowners’ active lifestyle and their love of cooking and gathering family and friends.

“We love standing in the corner of the kitchen, looking out the windows and through to the living room,” say the owners. “We see the ocean, the treetops. It’s like living in a beautiful, well-appointed treehouse.”

Design details such as Belgian stone kitchen floors reflect the homeowners’ extensive European travels. Throughout the house, doors, hardware, cabinetry, lighting, and furniture combine European and local design and craftsmanship. All cabinetry, including a second-bedroom European-style closet, was custom made by Architectural Millwork of Santa Barbara. A minimal color palette and natural materials contribute to a feeling of warmth and a serene sensibility.

Large, custom-made Santa Barbara-style doors (built-in screen within a framed glass door) lead from the living room to an expansive outdoor living space that includes areas for entertaining, alfresco dining, and sitting in the shade of mature oak trees. Landscape design by Margie Grace adds natural definition to the area with low-slung sandstone walls and drought-tolerant plantings along gravel pathways.

“The indoor-outdoor living space really speaks to the nature of how we like to live in Santa Barbara,” said Lowenthal. Most of the outdoor furnishings were crafted by Kirk Ponto of Santa Barbara-based Ponto Woodworking & Design, who also designed and built the home’s indoor dining table. For the surface of an outdoor table, Ponto used white marble reclaimed from the original kitchen. “We kept reclaimed materials and wanted to use them,” say the owners, “and we really appreciate local craftsmanship.”

www.harrisondesign.com

“We love standing in the corner of the kitchen, looking out the windows and through to the living room,” say the owners. “We see the ocean, the treetops. It’s like living in a beautiful wellappointed treehouse.”

All cabinetry, including a second-bedroom European-style closet, was custom made by Architectural Millwork of Santa Barbara. A minimal color palette and natural materials contribute to a feeling of warmth and a serene sensibility.

Most of the outdoor furnishings were crafted by Kirk Ponto of Santa Barbarabased Ponto Woodworking & Design, who also designed and built the home’s indoor dining table.

The Beauty of Natural Stone

Back to nature

The basics of nature-based landscaping

by lIsa Cullen

I’m likely bucking the latest trends with this column. Almost all “award-winning” homes and gardens in the big magazines are what I’d call contemporary. Not that I don’t appreciate contemporary homes, I do. I appreciate the clean lines and structural details. But I’m talking about the landscapes. You know the style, not a leaf out of place, every plant clipped within an inch of its life. Which is the opposite of nature-based landscaping.

Nature-based landscaping is working with nature not against her, being attentive to the soil, the specific micro-climate of your prop -

erty, and prudent use of our natural resources. It’s a simple concept really, the purpose being to promote gentle, toxic-free landscaping for the health of the planet, people, and animals.

the basICs of nature-based landsCaPIng: Use native plants as much as possible. In our environment, this is a given. Lucky for us we have many beautiful California native plants to choose from. I’d suggest visiting the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden and while you’re there, become a member and help them in their mission to conserve and protect

native plants and habitat.

Use no chemicals. You know the story: chemicals kill more than pests.

Save the soil by mulching and keeping leaves on the ground. If you’ve ever read anything from me, you know that I advocate for deep layers of leaves and mulch. It’s nature’s way of restoring the earth.

Reduce lawn size. Check, done!

Attract pollinators. There are so many ways to do this! And so many different pollinators. Butterflies, bees, hummingbirds, bats! And more. Pollinator gardens also attract attention

Lisa Cullen

because they’re so beautiful.

Stop excessive pruning. Oh, this is a hard one. For some reason, much of the population of Earth wants to trim plants into unnatural shapes. Now, if you’re creating a topiary garden, YES. Make elephants, dinosaurs, and roosters out of shrubs. But you know that isn’t what’s happening. If you want an education (and a laugh) on this, Billy Goodnick has a series of YouTube videos called “Crimes Against Horticulture; When Bad Taste Meets Power Tools.” Very funny and gets the point across beautifully.

Eliminate run-off as much as possible: Wow, this is a big subject that can’t be expressed in a few sentences. My follow-up column, “Ocean-friendly landscapes,” covers it fully. For now, consider this: We may not be “in a drought” now, but you know it will be back. California’s water crisis is solved by replenishing groundwater, and every drop of water that runs off your property and down the street ends up in the ocean. Oh dear! So everything you put on your plants and in your garden ends up in the ocean: fungicides, pesticides, Roundup (heaven forbid), and chemical fertilizers. Learn more about nature-based landscaping at www.perfectearthproject.org where you can download a free brochure. And start your adventure today.

Lisa Cullen, landscape designer and organic gardener, owns Montecito Landscape with her husband, Chris. She can be reached at 805.969.3984 or www.montecitolandscape.com

Energy: Conservation is key

by marshall hoWen

Well, the time has come, and for me it is way too soon. As the days get shorter and the daylight hours are noticeably missing from both ends of the day, it is a great time to remind ourselves of the importance of conserving energy.

As we enter the months leading up to our winter solstice, we will become much more dependent on the energy we use for lighting and heating our homes and businesses. When asked about where I believe the most value can be found in the case for a model that is rooted in renewable energy, the first idea I build on is conservation – you do not pay for what you do not use.

Many folks I speak with are still reeling from the exponential jump in natural gas prices they experienced last winter. In almost every conversation about that season of really high gas bills I hear, “if I had known, I would have…” It makes total sense, but those lessons are most often learned too late, once the damage is done. And so, here is the general reminder of the best strategy to lower your utility bills – simply use less.

Now while that is certainly oversimplified, the next two layers are not much more complicated. The first is to take a survey of the major things that use energy in your home, and then examine each with the goal of conserving energy in mind. An example would be your furnace (or FAU). How old is the unit? Have you inspected the ducts to make sure that they are connected properly and free of any holes or leaks? Does your thermostat have dynamic programming, allowing you to control the hours in which you will or need to heat your living spaces? Having a major appliance or component last as long as possible is certainly a worthy goal, but a great reason to justify replacing that unit is the immediate savings you will capture from upgrading to a more efficient model.

The second layer is to look at the small things. For my wife and me, we just went

through and finished swapping out all of our lamps (with a couple of exceptions) to LED’s. The amount of electricity that we will use, doing just the simple math comparison, will be 28% less. Fixing leaky faucets, using a blanket instead of a small space heater, timers and lighting controls for indoor and outdoor lights to have them operate in a more concise manner.

As with many things, conservation may seem at first like it is a lot of fuss over so many

small items. But I promise you, shifting your mindset and following through with action will lead to change that is both worthwhile and meaningful. Congratulations in advance for doing the hard work of saving!

Marshall Howen has been involved in the solar and energy storage industry for over 20 years and is the president and founder of Sunrise 805. www.sunrise805.com

With rebates like the Sustainable Lawn Replacement Rebate, residents and businesses can replace their water-thirsty lawn with water-wise plants and receive a rebate of up to $2/square foot. Rebate amount is based upon square footage of lawn removed.

A greener way to move

by raymond bloom

CEO and founder Erik Haney started his moving company, Movegreen, with what he describes “a truck and a dream” and a goal of revolutionizing the age-old business of moving and storage. He saw the moving business as one that carried a huge environmental footprint. “Every part of the traditional moving and storage business was wasteful. Throw-away cardboard boxes, plastic and bubble wrap, packing tape, fuel … everything. The idea for Movegreen was to make a traditional service modern and with a twist to be more eco-conscious and do our part for the community.”

The idea is working. Since its start in 2007, Movegreen has grown by 25 percent year after year, and is an industry leader with over 70,000 square feet of storage facilities and service locations from Santa Barbara to Los Angeles. Over that time, the company has continued it quest to become ever greener with post-consumer recycled boxes and materials, paperless quotes and contracts, and the first hybrid trucks in the area. Haney says when the infrastructure for electronic vehicles is in place,

he’ll be an early adopter with a fleet of electric trucks and service cars to move both business and residential clients. In 2024 Movegreen will roll out a new paperless inventory system allowing clients to view their items in storage electronically. “These services will take us 100 percent paperless for the consumer,” he says.

The company continues to grow by acquiring other moving companies and changing their operations to the Movegreen way. The company also formed a storage division called Honor Storage that honors first responders and has five locations of which Oxnard is the largest with over 33,000 square feet of storage. Other locations include Santa Barbara, Santa Clarita, and Western Los Angeles. The company recently launched a portable container solution similar to PODS with over 2,000 units and growing.

Haney says one of his better accomplishments with the company is his partnership with the nonprofit Trees for the Future, where Movegreen facilitates the planting of 10 trees

for every move. “I grew up in Bend Oregon and have always looked at ways to give back to the environment,” Haney says. “The trees program has been a great way to do that and our clients feel like they’re part of the plan to promote the long-term health of the planet.” The company has planted over 100,000 trees since the inception of the program.

In short, Haney says the company is invested in leaving the world a better place for future generations just as much as it’s invested in its ever-growing list of residential and commercial customers. To date, Movegreen has earned over 30 national and local awards recognizing the company’s environmental efforts and customer service.

License # 785983

Yes Store comes home at last

by Jeff mIller

It’s known as “the nation’s longest running seasonal arts & crafts cooperative.” But The Yes Store can’t make that claim anymore, since it’s no longer seasonal. It’s year-round.

And it’s not nomadic anymore, because after 55 years it’s found a home, at 1100 State Street, in La Arcada Plaza.

“We got tired of looking for space every year,” said Yes Store president Deborah Healy. And when you consider the path the store has taken over half a century, you can appreciate that sentiment.

“I’ve dealt with so many realtors and owners and locations over the years,” Healy said. “My husband says, how can you remember them all? Well, I worked really hard to get them.”

And remember them she does. Which is all the more impressive because there’s hardly a block on State that hasn’t hosted the nomadic shop at least once in 55 years. Some were big, some small, depending on what was available when November (through Christmas Eve) rolled around. But no matter where it landed, the artists, craftspeople, and customers kept coming back.

How many creators have graced their displays over these 55 years? Thousands? “Oh, yes,” said Healy.

Yes has been around (and around) for so long that its beginnings are a bit hazy.

“The people who started it were passionate about it,” Healy said. Those founders were Gary Chafe, Armin “Arnie” Mueller, and the famed Dr. Harris “Bubs” Meisel, who also founded what’s now Cottage Rehabilitation Hospital, among many other achievements. The Yes Store “was a beautiful thought,” Healy said. “It was the ’60s. People wanted to be cooperative.”

As the story goes, when one of the cofounders, Gary Chafe, now deceased, went

in to register the business long ago, he was of course asked the shop’s name. “He started giving a long name and the clerk said, no! You can’t do that!” said Healy. “And Gary said, yes, you’re right. So he went home and thought about that word, yes. The most positive word.” And so The Yes Store was born.

The shop made its meandering, seasonal way to 1979, when Deborah Healy and her husband, Kevin, came aboard. “We would usually start looking for a space in July or August,” Healy said. “It would get serious in September. We had to get it settled by October to send out applications.” And the number of contributors who could get a yes varied greatly because “we never knew what size store we’d get. Most were quite small.” Some were quite large, like the old Sears building. Some were quite interesting, like the old State Theatre, now the home of the Unity Gift & Thrift Shoppe.

Santa Barbara is so arty and crafty that “we could easily host 120 artists if we had the room,” Healy said.

Yes wended its way through the ’80s. In 1990 Healy became one of the managers, and

“We would usually start looking for a space in July or August,” Healy said. “It would get serious in September. We had to get it settled by October to send out applications.”

Photos by Aron Ives

then in the early ’90s “it came to us that we needed to incorporate. So we hired a lawyer who did the paperwork and we were incorporated as a general cooperative corporation.”

Now, in its new life, the store has been reformulated as a C corporation with owner/officers Deborah and Kevin Healy, Laura Giordana, and Eric Duffy. The four devoted “a lot of time, energy, investment, and dedication to make this new dream of a year-round Yes Store a reality,” Healy asserted. And this year 26 creators will be displaying in the new Yes.

(Historical note: For 55 years, Yes was open from November to 5 p.m. on Dec. 24. “Till this year,” Healy noted. “This year we stayed open till Jan. 15 to try it out and it worked!” Which propelled the yearround momentum.)

“We love being in La Arcada,” Healy said. “We love being part of the arts district.” On their (now permanent) displays will be the usual eclectic offerings of paintings, sculpture, jewelry, pottery, graphics, woodworking, leather, and more.

There are countless stories about the cooperative spirit that has propelled The Yes Store into its 56th year. An example:

“I remember one year we just couldn’t find space,” Healy recalled. “So I just walked up and down State Street, looking.” Then she came upon Cymbaline Records at 1035 State, whose proprietor was just hanging up a going-out-of-business sign. Healy called the building owner who asked how she’d heard it about it. She explained that, and then told about the store’s annual search for space. “‘Oh’, she said. ‘I love the Yes Store.’ She even came down and helped us paint and became a contributor.” And yes, Yes had another temporary landing place.

But now the annual search is over. After all those moves, and what Healy called the store’s “deep, amazing history,” Yes has finally found a place to call home.

Opposite: The new and permanent location at 1100 State St. in La Arcada Plaza. Below: One of the older locations on lower State Street.

F+H GALLERY

JULIKA LACKNER

SUSAN CRONIN

“Nyah Nyah Nut,” Bronze

Dimensions: 3.5”H x 3.5”L x 2.25” D www.susanreadcronin.com

KATIE UPTON

“Black

Horse #10 “48 x 30”

“Santa Barbara Bay” 2021. Oil on acrylic canvas. 30 x 24 x 1.5 inches.

Gourmet delivered L

ooking to impress guests this upcoming holiday season? From Ventura to Lompoc, Market Forager, owned and operated by chef Justin West, delivers restaurant-grade meat and seafood right to your door.

Drawing from his past experience as head chef at the much-lauded, now-closed Julienne restaurant, West sources top-quality cuts through his longstanding vendor relationships. Beyond the meats and seafood, customers gain access to chef West’s recipe collection, a culinary treasure in itself.

“My whole idea with this was that I want to bring private chef-level services to everyone in town, not just the people who can afford private chefs,” shares West. “I’ve been able to bring my level of cooking to the home user.”

Market Forager is a great resource for anyone who loves to cook, whether you’re entertaining or feeding your family. In fact, organic chicken tenders are consistently one of the top sellers. “Kids love them, of course, but I also get a lot of requests from dads,” jokes West.

West’s favorite item, however, depends on the occasion. He regularly reaches for the wagyu burger patties for their rich flavor, but when it’s time to impress during the holidays, the tomahawk steaks take center stage. (It’s worth noting that West is also available for private chef services.)

Market Forager is more than a meat delivery service; it’s an invitation to elevate your home cooking with the guidance of a local expert.

— Geneva Ives

Follow @Marketforgaer on Instagram or visit MarketForager.com to get exceptional meats and seafood delivered for free, at a time that works for you.

TASTING VENUES

DOWNTOWN

Carr Winery: Cool setting of a circa-1940s Quonset hut for sipping and savoring some of the best from winemaker Ryan Carr. Featuring limited-production whites and reds from Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Ynez. 414 N. Salsipuedes St. 805-965-7985.

Frequency Wine Company: Features small productions of Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay by winemaker and owner Zack Wasserman. 831 Santa Barbara St. 805-770-3069.

Gassini Family Vineyards: Located in the El Paseo Mall, they feature estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon in an elegant setting. 24 El Paseo. 805-897-3366.

Happy Canyon Vineyard: Featuring Bordeaux wines from their Santa Ynez Valley ranch. In the El Paseo Mall, 30 El Paseo. 805-230-0749.

Jamie Slone Wines: Enjoy the ultimate American Riviera Experience with award-winning

wines, a gorgeous venue, and awesome vibes. 23 East De La Guerra. 805-560-6555. Reservations recommended.

Silver Wines: Open Friday-Sunday, featuring specialty blends by owner Benjamin Silver including Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, and Syrah. 813 Anacapa St. Ste. 31. 805-770-8121.

FUNK ZONE

Kunin Wines: Located steps from the beach, they feature premium Grenache and Viognier wines. 28 Anacapa St. 805-9639633.

Margerum Wine Company: Savor elegant cheese boards, pizzas, and salads as you enjoy the best from winemaker and founder Doug Margerum. Located across from Hotel California. 19 East Mason St. 805-845-8435.

Santa Barbara Winery: Founded in 1962 by Pierre Lafond, the winery is the oldest in Santa Barbara County, producing award-winning Chardonnay, Pi-

not Noir, and Syrah. 202 Anacapa St. 805-963-3633.

LOS OLIVOS

The Brander Vineyard: Taste one of the best Sauvignon Blancs in California, by winemaker Fred Brander. Beautiful surroundings featuring both indoor and outdoor tasting. There’s a Mexican art museum on property, too, featuring collections form Brander himself. 2401 N. Refugio Rd. 805-688-2455.

Beckmen Vineyards: Specializing in Rhone-style fruit from two vineyards, producing one of the more diverse collection of wines on the Central Coast. 2670 Ontiveros Rd. beckmenvineyards.com. 805-688-8664.

Carhartt Family Wines: Absolutely one of the best tasting experiences in Santa Barbara County. Fun, musical, and very relaxed. The large collection of premium wines is a sure bet. Carharttfamilywines.com. Reservations highly recommended.

2939 Grand Ave. 805-693-5100.

Epiphany Cellars: Part of the Fess Parker family of wines. Winemaker Eli Parker features premium Rhone varietals in a cushy-modern tasting property on Grand Ave. 805-686-2424.

Fess Parker Winery and Vineyard: One of the most elegant destination tasting venues in the Valley featuring expansive picnic and special event settings with world-class wines from winemaker Blair Fox. 6200 Foxen Canyon Rd. 805-688-1545.

Future Perfect: Using only fruit from local, sustainably farmed vineyards, winemaker Sunny Doench Stricker offers Syrah, Grenache, and Sauvignon wines. 2933 San Marcos Ave. 805-697-7162.

Storm Winery: Rooted in the hills of Santa Barbara County, Storm Wines emphasizes oldworld influences and new-world techniques. 2948 San Marcos Ave. www.stormwines.com 805350-9456.

THE BIG NOTE

Large format

As the holiday season is always full of group dinners, parties, and get-togethers, it’s the perfect time to dive into the wonderful world of wine magnums. At 1.5 L, magnums are the lazy person’s way of serving two bottles of wine with only having to open one.

Fess Parker Winery’s Fesstivity sparkling wines are all made using Méthode Champenoise with grapes from the Sta. Rita Hills. This Anniversary Cuvée is a great selection for the holidays because it spends an extended time in tirage (36 months) and is bottled in magnum making it a perfectly festive addition for a host to make a toast at any holiday gathering.

Fesstivity, “Anniversary Cuvee,” 2016

94 points from Jeb Dunnuck

Sip + Sushi

Doug Margerum is at it again, this time with a gem of a new tasting room in Santa Barbara Wine Country’s charming Los Olivos. The spot offers a new twist on wine-pairing: a bento box with your vino tasting.

Margerum has been raising his glass to customers and friends for over 40 years in Santa Barbara’s hospitality trade, as a restaurateur and winemaker. Known for impeccable wines that he fashions for his own label, as well as consulting gigs to budding and wannabe winemakers, his talents have consistently set a high bar and earned respect for his Santa Ynez Valley estate wines.

This past summer, Margerum decided to open his tiny Santa Barbara wine country tasting room collaborating on the food-pairing side with Jina Bae of BB Sushi.

“Knowing that Jina was just about a mile away made it an easy decision to work with her,” said Margerum. “She’s very talented.”

Margerum’s second tasting location (the other is located in downtown Santa Barbara in the Hotel Californian plaza) provides an opportunity to share some unique food and wine experiences highlighting Asian-style seafood and pork. Nestled on Alamo Pintado Road (between other wine tasting rooms) the petit spot can hold 12 to 15 inside and the

same number at the outside high-top tables. Seating arrangements are very flexible. An added bonus? Lovely small oil paintings of valley vineyards by Santa Barbara’s beloved artist Joseph Arreno (1950-2006) from Margerum’s personal collection hang on the walls.

One usually pairs sushi with saki, but Margerum definitely wanted a “food angle” for the Los Olivos Tasting Room.

“I had always thought about pairing Japanese cuisine, sushi and raw fish, with the wines from the very beginning,” he said. “I sell a lot of wine in Japan and I love how the wines work with the delicate cuisine.”

The highly curated five-course bento box of sushi rolls, eel, sashimi, and Korean pork expertly paired with five Margerum and Barden wines goes something like this: It begins with the 2020 Barden Blanc de Blancs 100% Chardonnay made in the traditional method paired with fresh Dungeness crab baked with vanilla bean sauce and wrapped in soy paper.

Next up, 2022 Margerum Sybarite Sauvignon Blanc, Happy Canyon is paired with buri sashimi yellowtail brushed with yuzu soy sauce. Third, the 2022 Margerum M5 Estate White Rhone Blend, Los Olivos District, a blend of five white Rhone varieties (grenache blanc, marsanne, roussanne, viognier, and picpoul blanc paired with sweet unagi (eel).

2022 Margerum M5 Red Rhone Blend, Santa Barbara County, a blend of five red Rhone varieties (grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault, and counoise), complements the bluefin tuna, avocado, shiso leaf, umeboshi (pickled dried plum) with creamy sesame dressing. Last, but not least, 2020 Barden Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills tops off the tasting with bulgogi (grilled Korean spiced pork) with sesame seeds and green onions.

If Kumamoto oysters from the Pacific Northwest and bubbly are your thing, the oysters and sparkling wine pairing ($90 for two) in another option that includes a dozen of these tiny fresh bivalves with two glasses of the 2020 Barden Blanc de Blancs.

Both the Bento Box Food & Wine pairing for two experience ($150) and the Oyster/ Sparkling Wine pairing ($90) require advance planning and must be booked a day in advance. Walk-ins are welcome for tastings by the glass and small bites (as available), but due to the size of the new space it’s highly recommended that you book your visit on Tock or call or email prior to opening so the Margerum team can accommodate.

Reservations@margerumwines.com for larger party requests. Wine club members receive discounts. 805-504-1209.

by leslIe a. Westbrook

Photos by Kim Reierson

Crafting his own path

Rob Dafoe’s unconventional journey into wine highlights his passion for embracing the unexpected by hana-lee sedgWICk

For nearly two decades, Rob Dafoe has crafted site-expressive wines from Santa Barbara County’s diverse terroirs. Specializing in single-vineyard wines and unexpected blends, his wines not only reflect his passion for viticulture, but also encapsulate his multifaceted journey into winemaking—a journey many would say is as unique and compelling as his wines.

Born and raised in Goleta, Dafoe first developed an interest in wine while traveling the globe as a professional snowboarder and photographer. After retiring from snowboarding due to injuries, his growing curiosity in wine inspired his next endeavor: producing a documentary film about the winemaking process. From Ground to Glass, which

premiered at the 2006 Santa Barbara International Film Festival, captured Dafoe’s maiden voyage into winemaking as he learned from trailblazers in the industry, and thus ushered in his new career path.

Today, Dafoe continues his winemaking journey, making limited-production wines for his small label, Dafoe Wines. “My goal is to craft wines that just grab you, wines of substance and texture, filled with character and elegance,” he explains. “I think we all look for that in a great wine—it’s never just one thing, it’s everything. I want to make wines that I, myself, want to find when I buy a bottle.”

Emphasizing minimal intervention and an artisanal touch, Dafoe describes his style as “pretty hands-off,” meaning he

tries “to stay away from additions, filtrations, and interventions.” He adds, “I don’t follow trends, but I’m not afraid to push things. I love classic wine, but then also experimenting with lesser-known or cared about varieties and uncommon blends. Analog wines in a digital world.”

This exploratory approach is also reflected in the vineyards he chooses to work with. “I actively seek out small, family-owned vineyards, usually one- to twoacre parcels that I often end up farming with the help of friends,” he shares. “These sites tend to be super unique, and it’s intriguing to me to explore the subtleties of each site through the wine.”

Dafoe’s wines are available in the Los Olivos tasting room he runs with his wife, Emily, which they opened on Grand Avenue

two years ago. Intimate yet airy, the space features tasteful rustic accents along with some of Dafoe’s own photographs, and serves as a reflection of the couple’s joint commitment to this labor of love.

“Working on this endeavor alongside my family is a beautiful thing,” says Dafoe, who also mentions that the couple’s young son often accompanies them in the tasting room and cellar. “Winemaking is a way of life; I feel grateful to be on this journey here, close to where I grew up. I hope to continue to live with passion and reverence for the craft, faith in the land, and a commitment to keeping it simple in the cellar.”

For more info, visit: dafoewines. com

Blue Gabor

Blue Gabor

Becca

Nuss / Olive and Grain

Photo

Imagine your life having a complete support system. It's like an extended family working together, supporting you, raising your spirits, and making life easier. Every day. Your meals, your prescriptions, your chores, even a hobby or two, all looked after and taken care of. Smiles at every turn, an inside joke with a neighbor, a chef who knows just how you like your favorite meal. A life thriving through connection. That’s senior living at Maravilla.

Fantastic fall finds

SAVOR THE SEASON WITH ANY OF THESE FIVE LOCAL WINES.

by hana-lee sedgWICk

Ihave to admit, a part of me mourns a little when summertime comes to a close (just me?). Luckily, it’s followed by fall, which is undeniably one of the Central Coast’s most mesmerizing seasons. Fall brings idyllic weather, grape harvest festivities, an array of autumnal hues, cozy evenings in, and that feeling of warmth and nostalgia as the holiday season draws near. To complement the season, here are five wines sure to delight your palate, whether you’re yearning for a bold red wine to sip fireside or seeking a perfect pour for holiday feasts.

SAMsARA Bentrock

Chardonnay ($64)

SAMsARA produces beautiful examples of red wines, particularly pinot noir, syrah, and grenache, but definitely don’t overlook the chardonnays. Winemaker Matt Brady uses a gentle approach in the cellar to produce Sta. Rita Hills chardonnays that achieve harmony in acid, flavor, and texture, and the Bentrock Vineyard Chardonnay is a lovely example of this. Layered with appealing notes of apple, stone fruit, and brioche, the wine charms with its bright acidity and mineral-driven finish. I have no doubts it’ll be a standout at your holiday table this year.

Lo-Fi Cabernet Franc ($25)

This fun bottling from winemaker Mike Roth, who makes natural wines for the label he started with close friend Craig Winchester in 2013, is sourced from the certified organic Coquelicot Vineyard. This 100% whole

cluster, carbonic cabernet franc, which spent time aging in both concrete and neutral oak, never disappoints, thanks to its tart red fruit and pepper notes, low alcohol content, and dry finish (and how about that great price?). Best served chilled, it’s light and easy drinking, and will be a nice contrast to the rich, full-bodied red wines that tend to take center stage this time of year.

Dragonette MJM Syrah ($85)

Dragonette was founded in 2005 by brothers John and Steve Dragonette and their friend Brandon Sparks-Gillis, and since then, the trio have built a strong reputation for their stunning Santa Barbara County wines. I’ve long been a fan of their nuanced pinot noirs and sauvignon blancs, but the syrahs are equally impressive. MJM is their flagship syrah-based blend, combining fruit from meticulously selected vineyard blocks in both Ballard Canyon

and the Sta. Rita Hills. While I’d suggest laying this wine down for a few years, if you happen to have more than one bottle on hand, definitely pop one open to enjoy this season. Intense yet refined, this full-bodied wine reveals dark fruit and spice flavors complemented by savory herb and smoked game notes, with a long, powerful finish.

Municipal Winemakers 10-Year FIZZ Sparkling Wine ($100)

While the classic allure of a Blanc de Blancs or Blanc de Noir is undeniable, sometimes it’s fun to switch things up, such as with a sparkling syrah. And guess what? This unique bubbly just so happens to be an ideal pairing for Thanksgiving fare. Winemaker Dave Potter aged this syrah-based sparkling wine for ten years en tirage (on the lees in bottle) before its release, allowing it to develop complexity in both flavor and texture. He describes it as “a riff on the great sparkling Shiraz

wines of Seppelts, Australia,” but even if that reference means nothing to you, this wine promises to captivate your taste buds. Fresh notes of blackberry and raspberry meld with hints of spice and pepper, while gentle tannins envelope the effervescent finish of this spirited bottling.

Peake Ranch Pinot Noir ($75)

Sourced from Peake Ranch’s own estate vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation, and aged in 32% new French oak, this expressive Pinot Noir is a noteworthy red to sip this season. Medium in body, the nose on this wine from winemaker Wynne Solomon showcases brambly red and black fruits, spice, and pine, while the palate shines brightly with pure red berry characters. It’s fresh and complex with a great mouthfeel, making this wine one you’ll want to reach for all season long, either with or without food.

Book your next daytime brunch event with us!

We are event specialists and can host your full-service, daytime event (up to 40 people) any day of the week. For all the info, including larger groups and special accommodations, scan this code:

Prefer a night time party?

Our venue can also accommodate larger groups up to 150 people in the evenings. We’ve got you covered!

Open Mon-Fri from 9am–2pm

Weekend Brunch from 9am-2pm

Gifts from the Wine Country

by hana-lee sedgWICk

If you get stuck on what to bring to the holiday gift exchange this year, here are some true crowd-pleasers. And they’re not bad to give to yourself, either!

ALMA ROSA CARACOL

PINOT NOIR

This powerful Pinot Noir from Alma Rosa Winery comes from a unique hilltop vineyard block in the historic El Jabali Vineyard, which founder Richard Sanford planted to a variety of rootstocks and clones in the pattern of a snail’s shell, providing each row with a different orientation to the sun. The result is a bold, opulent

wine showcasing enticing notes of black cherry, pomegranate, and baking spices, with a long, savory, and seamless finish. Available at almarosawinery. com.

THE RANCH TABLE

In her debut cookbook, The Ranch Table: Recipes from a Year of Harvests, Celebrations, and Family Dinners on a Historic California Ranch, seventhgeneration cattle rancher Elizabeth Poett melds seasonal ingredients with her down-toearth approach to cooking and entertaining. Spanning a year of seasonal events and happenings

on the historic ranch that’s been in Poett’s family since 1837, The Ranch Table is as much a love letter to Central Coast ranch life as it is an ode to cultivating and honoring family traditions. Available at theranchtable.com.

TWENTY-FOUR BLACKBIRDS TRUFFLES

Inspired by traditional chocolate making techniques, Twenty-Four Blackbirds specializes in single origin, handcrafted artisanal chocolates. The 20-piece Truffle Box is a chocolate lover’s delight, featuring decadent and unique flavors such as Black Pepper & Cardamom Caramel; Fennel

Pollen

and

Available at twentyfourblackbirds.com or 428 East Haley St., SB.

Cream

MARGERUM AMARO

Winemaker Doug Margerum may be known for his Rhône, Loire, and Burgundian varietal wines, but he’s also garnered attention for his Amaro digestif. Rooted in Italian tradition, this high alcohol, bittersweet herbal liqueur mixes fortified wine with different herbs, roots, barks, and spices, resulting in a robust and complex after-dinner sipper. Available at margerumwines.com or 19 East Mason St., SB.

Caramel;

Coconut

Ganache.

Wine+Dine

1. Family-style offerings from chef Josh Brown of Intermezzo by Wine Cask. www.intermezzosb.com

2. Crafted cocktail from Brass Bear Brewing & Bistro. www.brassbearbrewing.com

1 2

Intermezzo by Ashley Othic. Brass Bear by Aron Ives.

3. Bouchon’s signature maple-glazed duck breast & confit of thigh paired with Fiddlehead Cellars pinot noir. www.bouchonsantabarbara.com

4. Fried chicken sandwich with honey mustard slaw and fries from Scarlett Begonia. www.scarlettbegonia.net

5. Grilled lamb chops with swiss chard from Jane Restaurant in Santa Barbara www.janesb.com

6. Fish tacos, fresh guacamole, and house margarita from La Playa Azul Café. www.laplaya-azul.com

Photos by Kim Reierson. Jane

photo by Jane Chapman.

Pigskin gourmand

by bob Wesley

An official NFL football is defined as “a pebble-grained, leather-cased prolate spheroid,” and since I was described and condemned as such by my recent Tinder date Maggie, I can personally relate to this detailed assessment.

As a nonetheless fairly rabid fan of the sport, as well as riveting foodstuffs and vino, I was originally tasked in this issue to outline a delectable menu of transcendent wines to accompany stadium concession refreshments. Unfortunately, after some online Googling, the assignment jettisoned my initial suggestions straight to the darkest portion of a Bourdainless subsection of Hades.

For example, I learned that at a Rams or Chargers game in LA, you’ll pay $8 for a hot dog. THE OBSCENE CAPITALISTIC TEMERITY! Unless they serve it with golden caviar and creme fraiche, of course…

Also (and unfortunately), the NFL’s official winery sponsor

is XXXXXXXX, touted by its owners as America’s most beloved wine brand. (The redaction above was implemented to prevent this publication from being hauled into court for the libelous but truly sincere verbiage below.)

“Most beloved wine?” That’s one swaggeringly brazen statement on the part of a lamentable sad sack vin ordinaire that can be purchased at any supermarket, gas station. or foreboding skid row alleyway in the continental United States. Extortionately priced hot dogs and lamentable, rinky-dink white Zinfandel? I’m repulsed and unforgiving.

Instead, ignore entering any enslaving stadia and just go tailgating pregame: Save some bucks and try these combos:

Charcoal grilled Hebrew National quarter-pound beef

frankfurters topped with Dijon mustard, pickle relish, diced heirloom tomatoes, and chopped onions, accompanied by a tingly, slightly herbal, citrusy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This union is palate-enlivening as well as complimentary, and the delectations you’ll encounter may well prompt you to remain in the parking lot munching and imbibing away while viewing the nearby contest on your iPhone.

In an alternate tableau, you and your gridiron-obsessed, raucous companions will almost certainly gather at the home of a friend with the grandest, most elephantine big-screen monitor, and thus you can expand your bill of fare along with a broader selection of appropriate vinous elixirs.

I’m thinking chorizo/Italian sausage sliders oozing with

melted Havarti and caramelized onions, accompanied by a stout, vociferous, and peppery Grenache-Syrah blend from our bountiful backyard. Few other conglomerations can best this duo for intensity, vigor, and gregariousness.

The neighbors next door may complain about your shouting and rambunctiousness, but it won’t be the game’s fault. You’ll be hollerin’ about this immaculate fusion of savory, toothsome, scrumptious, indescribably momentous foodie imaginings, even if your hometown team loses to some pathetic NFC underdog. Go Bills! I hope.

Bob Wesley is a Santa Ynez based wine buying consultant and writer specializing in California wines.