Food+Home Magazine - Winter 2024 by Food & Home Magazine

WINTER 2024

PLUS: SB FISH MARKET’S PAUL OSBORNE WABI SABI GARDENS ARCHITECT ROB MADAY GRAPE ESCAPE TO WALLA WALLA FASHION ARTIST CATHERINE GEE TOP WINES FOR WINTER AND MORE! Flamiche au poireaux (French leek tart)

WINTER COMFORT

SCRUMPTIOUS RECIPES FROM LOCAL CHEFS

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WINTER 2024 Features

23 Born to chef The journey of SB Fish Market chef Paul Osborne.

28 Chef’s choice Recipes for a winter’s comfort.

46 Outdoors reimagined Profile on Bosky Landscape Architecture.

56 Merging of apparel and art The work of designer Catherine Gee.

60 Nature’s bridge Witness to winter’s passage into spring.

32 12

FOOD + HOME

Winemaker Kamee Knutson The story of Sleepy Hollow Vineyard.

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In Every Issue

Top Wine Picks Cozy winter favorites.

Firsts Scarlett Begonia’s winning chowder.

Wine + Dine Pairings and local fare.

The perfect bite Gala’s twist on Spanish tomato bread.

First Chapter Teasers for those who love books.

Garden Notes Wabi Sabi garden design.

Last Word The making of a wine snob.

Grape Escape Wine travels to Walla Walla.

52 14

FOOD + HOME

On the cover: The noble leek shines this winter. Market Forays chef and food writer, Laurence Hauben, pays homage with her own version of Flamiche Au Poireaux (leek tart). Photo by Laura Adani. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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Publisher & President

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Wine Editor

Hana-Lee Sedgwick Travel Editor

Leslie A. Westbrook Design & Production

Buffalo Brothers Studios Contributors

Raymond Bloom Angela Borda Christine Cowles Lisa Cullen Danielle Fahrenkrug Nick Franklin Laurence Hauben Geneva Ives Lynette La Mere Nancy Ransohoff Megan Waldrep Photography

Jim Bartsch Michael Brown Joshua Curry Eliot Crowley Mehosh Dziadzio Braulio Godinez Ashley Hardin Aron Ives Katherine Knowlton Kim Reierson Eamonn McGeough Shelly Vinson Social Media Consultant

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Food and Home (ISSN# 1533-693X) is published quarterly by Metro Inc. and single copies are provided to selected homeowners free of charge. Unless otherwise noted, all photographs, artwork, and designs printed in Food & Home are the sole property of Metro Inc. and may not be duplicated or reprinted without Metro Inc.’s express written permission. Food & Home and Metro Inc. are not liable for typographical or production errors or the accuracy of information provided by advertisers. Readers should verify advertised information with the advertisers. Food & Home and Metro Inc. reserve the right to refuse any advertising. Food & Home® is a registered trademark of Metro, Inc. Copyright © 2019. All inquiries may be sent to: Metro Media Services, P.O. Box 20025, Santa Barbara, CA 93120, or call (805) 455-4756, or e-mail: info@food-home.com. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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EDITORS & C ONTRIBUTORS

Laurence Hauben Born and raised in France, Laurence began her culinary training at age three. A cooking teacher and chef, she is available for small group and private events, specializing in seasonal menus centered around Santa Barbara’s organic produce and local seafood. To learn more, visit www.marketforays.com Geneva Ives Geneva Ives is a local writer with a big appetite, cute little boy, and sweet ’66 El Camino. She also writes for USA Today and is the author of “Unique Eats and Eateries of Santa Barbara.” Feast along on Instagram: @hi_geneva Jeff Miller Jeff Miller is a longtime newspaper writer/editor who now writes books and plays. His novels can be found at amazon.com/author/ jdmillerauthor or at Lulu.com under J.D. Miller. Nancy Ransohoff Nancy Ransohoff is a writer and editor who’s worked at Bon Appetit, Architectural Digest, and Frommer’s guidebooks. She currently writes for 805 Living magazine and covers Santa Barbara area restaurants for Westways magazine. She was a writer and editor for the guidebook “Hometown Santa Barbara,” and loves to help show off this beautiful place we’re lucky enough to call home. Hana-Lee Sedgwick Hana-Lee Sedgwick is a writer, editor, and marketing consultant born and raised in Santa Barbara. A certified specialist of wine and sommelier, she loves sharing the world of wine with people, and happily spends her downtime eating, drinking, and wandering throughout California wine country and beyond. Follow her on Instagram @ wanderandwine. Megan Waldrep Megan Waldrep is a nationally published writer, columnist, and founder of the Partners of Commercial Fishermen, an online community for girlfriends, fiancés, and wives of commercial fishermen. Her husband, Chris Dabney, is a spiny lobsterman who fishes on the rocky coast of the Channel Islands, California. In the off-season, they live in Wilmington, NC, where Megan takes advantage of the bicoastal life by writing from both coasts. To learn more, visit meganwaldrep.com, follow on Instagram at @megan.waldrep, or listen to the Partners of Commercial Fishermen Podcast on Apple, Spotify, Amazon, and wherever podcasts are available. Leslie A. Westbrook Leslie A. Westbrook is an award-winning journalist who covers travel, food, design, and people. She also assists clients around the globe desiring to sell fine art, antiques, and collectibles via international auction houses. Leslie can be reached for a complimentary consultation at LeslieAWestbrook@gmail.com. brassbearbrewing.com 20

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Photos by Chuck Place

FIRSTS

Born to chef by Phil Kirkwood

tar chef Anthony Bourdain’s masterpiece book, “Kitchen Confidential,” (published in 2000) was more than an entertaining deep dive into the “culinary underbelly” of the restaurant world. It offered inspiration. To some, the wild but true tales from behind the kitchen doors of America were just too wild to ever explore in person. Yet to others it was a calling card to a lifetime career as a professional chef. Goleta native Paul Osborne, now executive chef at the new Santa Barbara Fish Market in Goleta, was one of those. Osborne says he read “Kitchen Confidential” at age 11 (a noble feat for a sixth-grader) while living with his parents in Paris, France. He W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

says he was instantly “hooked on the industry” and has been studying culinary arts ever since. In high school he worked as a dishwasher and prep cook for a summer cheerleading camp at UCSB. “We cooked three meals a day for 2,000 students … everything from Mongolian BBQ to European-styled pizzas and casseroles. Needless to say, my knife skills got really good in a hurry.” As you might guess, it was on to culinary school at Santa Barbara City College School of Culinary Arts where he studied under chef Charlie Fredrickson, formerly executive chef at bouchon Santa Barbara. “I received great training and hands-on experience from that program,” he FOOD + HOME

said. “It really was the launch to my career.” After graduating in 2009, Osborne spent the next five years in Portland, Oregon, where he was chef de cusine at Bamboo Sushi, a high-end corporate sushi chain. Then it was back to Santa Barbara where he continued his corporate career for the next five years as chef de cuisine at both Hotel California’s Blackbird restaurant and then at Rosewood Miramar Beach’s Caruso’s. “I traded executive chef jobs back and forth between the two kitchens,” he says. “The amount I learned from the experience was truly amazing.” As a seasoned buyer of seafood and an avid fisherman himself, Osborne has rubbed shoulders with the professional fishing crowd in Santa Barbara for yesars, including Santa Barbara Fish Market owner Brian Colgate. He says he’s known Colgate as a fisherman and a customer for years, but while working at the resorts he cultivated a relationship with SBFM partner Laszlo Nemeth. “I met Laz at some charity events and when he sourced some special items for my menus,” Osborne recalls. “Laszlo put Brian and me together last spring when the fish shop was still under construction. He shared his ideas for the restaurant with me and the three of us hit it off instantly. We have a very similar passion for bring people together with fresh, local seafood.” The Goleta location opened in October of 2023 with an assortment of Osborne’s favorite recipes for fish tacos, poke bowls, and specialty dishes including Sicilian swordfish meatballs. When asked what his favorite dish is to prepare, he says he likes experimenting and refining his smoked fish processes. There’s also an array of Osborne’s special sauces including a very tasty ponzu marinated ikura. The idea for the restaurant portion is to be gourmet casual with unbounded flavors for both sit down and take away. The market portion is designed like the original shop in the Santa Barbara Harbor but five times bigger. Says Osborne, “Our goal is to connect seafood enthusiasts, home cooks and food aficionados in general with the finest seafood found anywhere.” Osborne enjoys his new position, away from the hectic pressures of a corporate kitchen. His hours are reasonable, and his energy is boundless. “My quality of life has increased dramatically since leaving corporate,” he says. “I have a much deeper connection with the local community through this company and I’m excited to spend holidays with my family, which hasn’t happened since 2016.” www.sbfish.com @sbfishmarket 24

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Photo by Kim Reierson

FIRSTS

Winning flavors

he Santa Barbara Chowder Festival, now in its 11th year, is one of those events that give locals a chance to play tourist in their own town. It’s a casual, dress-down, beerdrinking, wine-sipping charity event that helps raise money and awareness for the Legal Aid Foundation of Santa Barbara County. It’s also a friendly competition among local chefs to see who has the best chowder going on. The 2023 event put 12 chefs to the test on a Chamber of Commerce Sunday in October at Stow House Park in Goleta. The winner was Scarlett Begonia, which offered a traditional clam chowder, zipped up a bit with thyme and carrot for sweetness. The dish was served with crumbled Beeler’s bacon, a carrot-arbol pepper puree, and clarified butter. Says Scarlett owner Crista Fleming on taking her second crown in event history: “We love this event and we love winning! It gives our kitchen a chance to try new twists on old recipes. We’re definitely putting this chowder on the menu.” As of December 2023, the wining chowder is on the Monday-through-Friday lunch menu. It comes with a crust of bread from their house bakery, Deux, and pairs well with the Mexican amber lager from Draughtsman. Add a small salad and you have a great quick lunch. –Raymond Bloom Scarlett Begonia 21 West Victoria downtown in the Historic Arts District. www.scarlettbegonia.net W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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he Catalonia region in northeastern Spain has a dish locals called pa amb tomàquet (tomato bread), which features toasted bread, fresh garlic, olive oil, and whole tomatoes. “It’s a Catalan must!” says Tara Penke, co-owner of Gala Restaurant in Santa Barbara, who with her husband, chef Jaime Riesco, features a special version of the dish on their menu. “And it’s our daughter’s favorite. We serve it DIY with a twist.” Penke says that in the rural regions of Catalonia you would put to the ready a basket of bread with whole cloves of garlic, whole tomatoes, some salt, and good olive oil. Assembly goes like this: First break off a piece of the bread (toasting optional), then rub the garlic clove over the bread. After that, rub the tomato over the bread until just the peel is left. “Then you drizzle on some olive, sprinkle some salt and voila! Best snack ever, especially when you add some jamon Iberico (premium ham) or boquerones (Spanish anchovies) to it.” For the Gala house version of the bread, they use charcoal sourdough from Oat Bakery in Santa Barbara. This dish makes for a tasty first course and pairs well with Gala’s house specialty, the Beet Margarita. “This drink is a sensory explosion,” says Penke. Invented by bar manager Dakota Lopez, the deep color and subtly sweet earthy flavor highlights the mineral characteristics of the tequila and is balanced by citrusy and floral hibiscus, fresh lime, and agave.—Raymond Bloom

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HOME C HEF

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Raising up the lowly leek By Laurence Hauben www.marketforays.com

ne of the staples of winter farmers’ market stands, leeks are a member of the allium family, related to onions, shallots, and

garlic. They combine pleasant herbaceous notes with

a milder version of onions’ pungency, soften to a deep

sweetness when cooked, and lend themselves to many preparations. Often referred to as the poor man’s

asparagus, leeks are very versatile. Beyond vichyssoise, the classic leek and potato soup, leeks can flavor

risotto and pasta dishes, be served cold in a mustardy vinaigrette, or used to make flamiche aux poireaux, a classic dish of Northern France where leeks are a regional favorite.

HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR LEEKS:

Look for long white legs in your leeks. The dark

green outer leaves are flavorful but too fibrous to

be eaten, so the more conscientious farmers keep

mounding soil against the stalks as the leeks grow to keep them white and tender. PREPARING LEEKS:

Soil gets buried between the leaves as the leeks grow.

To properly clean them, cut the leeks in half lengthwise and fan out the outer leaves to rinse out any grit. Cut off the dark green leaves. They are too fibrous to be

eaten, but are useful in making soup stocks and also to wrap bundles of herbs for a bouquet garni. FLAMICHE AU POIREAUX

As always with dishes that have been prepared by

countless cooks over the ages, there are many versions. Some add bacon; others use Maroilles, a ripe, stinky

local cheese; a few are double crusted, but the basics

remain the same: leeks softened in butter, eggs, cream, a hint of nutmeg, and a flaky puff pastry crust. My

preference is to bake the flamiche upside down like a tarte tatin. This keeps the dough light and crisp, it caramelizes the leeks for a beautiful finish, and

flipping the tart upside down just before serving is always a fun reveal.

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FOOD + HOME

HOME C HEF (LOWLY LEEK continued)

INGREDIENTS

FOR A 10-INCH FLAMICHE, SERVES 6

4 medium sized leeks,

white and light green parts only 3 tablespoons butter

6 ounces grated gruyere or Comte cheese 2 eggs

¼ cup cream

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

A few twists of black pepper

A 14-inch round of puff pastry A 10-inch oven-proof skillet

(cast iron works great) PREPARATION

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees.

Slice the leeks lengthwise, then cut them

into 4-inch-long sections, keeping the layers together so they look like split logs.

Melt the butter in an oven-proof skillet

over medium heat. Place your leeks cut

side down in the skillet in a single layer, covering the entire surface of the pan. The leeks will begin to color. Allow

Curried cauliflower soup PREP TIME: 15 COOK TIME: 20 TOTAL TIME: 35 MINUTES Serves 2-4 INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons olive oil or ghee 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 medium-large apple, (gala, honey crisp), peeled and cored, roughly chopped 4–5 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 1½ tablespoons fresh ginger, roughly chopped 1 medium head cauliflower, cut into small florets 2½ cups chicken or vegetable stock 2 teaspoons yellow curry powder 1 teaspoon coriander ¼ teaspoon turmeric ¾ teaspoon salt ¾ cup canned coconut milk Garnish: microgreens, toasted walnuts, Aleppo pepper, seeds of choice 30

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INSTRUCTIONS Heat oil in a large heavy bottom pot or dutch oven, over medium-high heat. Add onion, sauté 2-3 minutes. Add apple, garlic, and ginger, continue to sauté until golden and fragrant, about 4-5 minutes. Add cauliflower, chicken stock, curry powder, coriander, turmeric and salt. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat until cauliflower is very tender, about 15 minutes. Add to blender and pulse until smooth, blending in batches if necessary. Add the lime juice, and stir in the coconut milk. Garnish with microgreens, Aleppo pepper, toasted walnuts, black and white sesame seeds, and hemp seeds.

them to gently caramelize for about 7 minutes.

Cover the skillet with a lid and keep

cooking for another 5 minutes to soften

the leeks all the way through. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the leeks, and cover

with the lid for a minute or two to melt the cheese.

Beat the eggs with the cream, nutmeg

and pepper. Turn off the heat and pour the egg mix over the melted cheese.

Drape the puff pastry over your filling,

tucking in the dough all around the edges of the skillet. Cut a few slits in the dough to allow steam to escape, and place in the hot oven.

Bake for 30 minutes, then remove from

the oven and flip over onto a platter.

The flamiche can be enjoyed hot or at

Recipe and photo by Katherine Knowlton. www.katherineknowlton.com

room temperature, and is typically served with a simple salad tossed in vinaigrette.

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Photo by Katherine Knowlton

HOME C HEF

Will the real coq au vin please stand up Chicken in red wine sauce Prep time: 20 minutes, plus overnight to marinate Cook time: 1 hour 30 minutes Makes 4 servings INGREDIENTS 1 (3½ -pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces (2 breasts, 2 thighs, 2 legs, 2 wings) 3 carrots, diced 2 ribs celery, diced 32

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1 onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, mashed 3 sprigs fresh thyme 1 (750-ml) bottle red wine 4 ounces slab bacon, diced 1 pound small button mushrooms 2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 cups chicken stock 16 pearl onions, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

INSTRUCTIONS Place the chicken, carrots, celery, onion, garlic, and thyme in a large nonreactive bowl. Pour the wine over, cover, and marinate in the refrigerator overnight. When ready to cook, place the bacon into a cold skillet over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate. Add the mushrooms to the fat in the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. If you need more fat, add 1 tablespoon of the butter. Transfer the mushrooms to the plate with the bacon. In a small saucepan, bring the stock to a boil. Add the pearl onions, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the tip of a paring knife easily pierces the onions, about 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the onions to the plate with the bacon and mushrooms. Reserve the stock. Remove the chicken from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Place a finemesh strainer over a large bowl and strain the marinade into the bowl; discard the vegetables. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter and the olive oil in a large dutch oven over high heat until bubbly and very hot. Working in batches if necessary, add the chicken, skin side down, and cook until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Turn and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove the chicken to a plate and sprinkle the flour into the pot. Whisk in the reserved stock and marinade and bring to a rapid boil. Add the chicken legs, thighs, and wings to the pot, reduce the heat to low, and cook, turning once, for 20 minutes. Add the chicken breasts, bacon, mushrooms, and pearl onions and cook, uncovered, until the chicken is fully cooked, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Serve coq au vin at the table right from the pot. Tip: It’s important to let the chicken marinate overnight so the wine and aromatics can fully penetrate it. I always let mine sit for a day or two. VARIATIONS Chicken in riesling: Replace the red wine with a fruity white wine like riesling or gewürztraminer. Chicken in cider or beer: Replace the red wine with either hard cider or your favorite craft beer. Recipe and Photo by Katherine Knowlton. Katherine is a private chef, food consultant and entrepreneur living in Santa Barbara. www.katherineknowlton.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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SANTA BARBARA 1028 State Street Santa Barbara, CA 93101 (805) 966-3116

MONTECITO 1485 East Valley Road #9 Montecito, CA 93108 (805) 969-7746

HOME C HEF

Easing the winter chill

Spicy ginger vegetable zoodle soup

spicy soy sauce-based ginger soup broth with sweet red bell peppers, green onions, zoodles, and jalapeños. A household favorite grain-free vegetarian zucchini soup recipe in 20 minutes! Soup prep time: 10 minutes. Cook time: 10 minutes. Total time: 20 minutes. Servings: 4. INGREDIENTS 4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth ¼ cup gluten-free tamari soy sauce low sodium 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon dry ginger or 1 1-inch piece fresh ginger peeled and thinly sliced 1 red bell pepper thinly sliced 2 bunches of green onion chopped 1 small jalapeno chile thinly sliced 2 small zucchini, sliced into zoodles ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves Sesame seeds for garnish

Photo by Danielle Fahrenkrug

INSTRUCTIONS In a medium pot bring the broth, soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, and red bell pepper to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 10 minutes. Serve the ginger soy broth and peppers into bowls and add the zucchini noodles last to each bowl. Garnish with jalapenos, extra green onions and cilantro. Serve immediately. Recipe by Danielle Fahrenkrug www. delightfulmomfood.com

Turmeric golden milk tea T

he benefits of curcuma golden milk tea are endless. Rich and creamy, this vegan turmeric tea “golden milk latte” warms the body and the soul. Full-bodied chai spiced with cinnamon, ginger, and cardamom floats the scent of comfort in the air.

INGREDIENTS 2 cups unsweetened almond milk, coconut milk, or cashew milk 1 teaspoon turmeric 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ginger Dash of black pepper 1-2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 anise star (optional) 34

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INSTRUCTIONS In a pot on the stovetop add all the ingredients and heat on medium-low. Whisk continuously to blend all the spices until heated. Optional: use a strainer strain out the milk to remove any lumpy spices. Serve warm. Recipe and photo by Danielle Fahrenkrug. www.delightfulmomfood.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

Got Rings?

COMFY | W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

COZY |

WONDERFUL |

JANESB.COM FOOD + HOME

HOME C HEF

Shoyu ramen with smoked duck

INSTRUCTIONS: Mix ramen broth base and tare and bring to a boil. Add salt to taste. Place ramen in 4 bowls, pour the broth over and garnish with the remaining ingredients.

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS: 1¾ quarts ramen broth base (see recipe below) 5 to 6 tablespoons tare (see recipe and note) 4 portions of cooked ramen noodles Sliced smoked duck or crispy pork belly 2 soft-boiled eggs, cut into halves (see recipe) Scallions Baby bok choy, slightly charred Oyster mushrooms Sesame-togarashi oil (see recipe below)

RAMEN BROTH BASE INGREDIENTS FOR ABOUT 7 QUARTS: 5 pounds chicken back and neck bones 2 pounds pork neck bones 3 gallons water 3 carrots, cut into 1-inch chunks 2 yellow onions, peeled & cut in quarters 3 bunches scallions, rinsed 8 ounces ginger, cut into ½-inch chunks 2 ounces dried shiitake mushrooms 2 ounces kombu seaweed

otes: *Kombu, aka dried seaweed, brings major umami. Tare (pronounced ta-REH) is like ramen’s secret ingredient, giving the stock most of its flavor. Nikka Market in Goleta is a great place to get your kombu.

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Roast the chicken and pork bones separately in a 350° F oven until golden brown. Place the bones in a stock pot and scrape in all found on the bottom of the roasting pan. Add the carrots, onions, scallions, ginger, shiitake mushrooms and water. Place the pot on a stove over high heat and bring the water to a roaring boil. Lower the heat to medium, simmer for 10 to 15 minutes and then start skimming out the foam. Once the foam is skimmed, lower the heat to a very low simmer (slow bubbling surface) and let the stock reduce to about half (about 4-5 hours), skimming occasionally. When the stock is done, strain and discard the bones and vegetables. Add the kombu seaweed and cool overnight. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

TARE FOR RAMEN NOODLES INGREDIENTS FOR ABOUT 1½ CUPS: 1 cup Kikkoman soy sauce 1 cup sake ½ cup mirin 2 ounces smoked bacon bits INSTRUCTIONS: Mix everything together in a small pot and slowly reduce to half over very low heat, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. The heat should be barely a bubble on the surface. Tare will be salty and packed with umami, so a little goes a long way.

QUALITY CUSTOM WOODWORK QUALIT Y CUSTOM WOODWORK SINCE 1969

AJITSUKE TAMAGO (SOY MARINATED EGGS FOR RAMEN) INGREDIENTS: 16 large eggs (refrigerated) Ice water Marinade: 1 cup soy sauce 1 cup mirin 3 cups water INSTRUCTIONS: Bring a pot of water to a fast boil (enough to cover the eggs). Lower the heat to a medium simmer. Take the cold eggs and carefully lower cold eggs into the boiling water and cook for exactly 6½ minutes. Take them out and place them in the ice-water bath to stop the cooking. Once the eggs have cooled down, carefully peel them and place them in a deep pan. Cover the eggs with the marinade and refrigerate for a couple of hours or even overnight. To serve, let eggs sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Cut the eggs in half, place each half on top of the bowl of ramen and pour the hot broth over it.

Cabinetr y • Doors • Windows • Mouldings

SESAME TOGARASHI OIL INGREDIENTS: 2 small shallots, finely minced 3 cloves of garlic, finely minced 1 teaspoon sesame seeds Pinch of seas salt ¼ cup mild tasting olive oil 2½ tablespoons schichimi togarashi ( Japanese seven spice) INSTRUCTIONS: Combine the minced shallot, garlic, sesame seeds, salt, and oil in a small pot. Set over low heat. Slowly cook, stirring periodically, until the garlic has softened and lightly browned, 5-6 minutes. Turn off the heat and add the togarashi. Stir. Let sit for a few hours or overnight.

RCHITECTURAL I L L W O R K O F S A N TA B A R B A R A , I N C .

Showroom located at

8 North Nopal Street Santa Barbara, CA (805) 965-7011 www.archmill.com

S e rvi n g S a n ta B a r b a r a S i n ce 1969 L i c # 2617 72

Recipe and photo by private chef Katherine Knowlton. www.katherineknowlton.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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Photo by Lottie Griffiths

FISH TALES

Rockfish made easy By Megan Waldrep

of you’re stumped about what lunch to pack for work or school, or you just want to want to switch it up, a seafood quesadilla might do the trick. It takes minimal preparation time and usually less cleanup than a traditional sandwich. Plus, you can use leftover fish from the night before. Pacific rockfish is available year-round in the Santa Barbara Channel. It’s light and flaky (read: not “fishy tasting”), so it’s an easy crowd favorite. Not only is Pacific rockfish delicious, but it contains vitamins A, C, B6, and B12, as well as iron, zinc, and others. 38

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You can buy Pacific rockfish from local fishermen at Santa Barbara’s Saturday Fishermen’s Market or local seafood markets while telling your little one how it got to their lunch pail. “Just think, fishermen with families like ours go out to the great big ocean to catch fish for us to enjoy every day!” Make it a learning experience and ask the fishermen about boats and the varieties of seafood they catch throughout the year. Fishermen love sharing stories and will be happy to do it. To make, heat a medium skillet over medium heat and warm your tortilla for about 30 seconds.

Flip, then sprinkle half of the tortilla with cheese or cheese alternative. Cover the cheese evenly with Pacific rockfish and add diced tomatoes, bell peppers, and other veggies to enhance the ’dilla to their liking. Sprinkle more cheese over the filling, then fold the empty side of the tortilla over the goods. If desired, brush the tortilla with oil or butter, then carefully flip it with a spatula and cook for about one to two minutes until golden brown on each side. (To prevent burning, turn down the heat.)

There are 112 calories and 21 grams of protein in four ounces of Pacific rockfish.

Immediately transfer the quesadilla to a cutting board and let it cool for a minute to allow the cheese to set. Slice it into three pieces, or up the ante using cookie cutters to make fun shapes. Serve with a dollop of sour cream, Greek yogurt, and salsa alongside quartered avocados from a local farm or your backyard and grapes for a crispy, sweet finish. This is a meal that seafoodies of all ages can enjoy. While you’re at it, make one for yourself. Here’s to a happy and healthy 2024. To learn more about Saturday Fisherman’s Market in Santa Barbara, visit www.cfsb.info/sat W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

Reimagine your home

projects. a unique building company.

805.682.2226 | projectsgc.com | license #884424

...then call to remodel or build with us

Trending Finishes Matte Black brings warmth and elegance to your kitchen design and offers a dramatic departure from stainless steel and chrome. Browse our showroom for a wide array of matte black kitchen sink ensembles, accessories and premium faucets. Economy Plumbing Supply | 632 E. Haley | 805-965-4319 | www.economysb.com 40

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ST YLE + DESIGN

A touch of Taj… T

his modern and yet classic master bathroom features the king of all quartzites, Taj Mahal. A versatile, yet elegant natural stone from Brazil, Taj Mahal has a soft white background and subtle gold veins, making it ideal for modern and traditional spaces. Other highlights for the stone and why it is so popular among the modern design community, is that it beautifully replicates the look of marble while boasting the hardness and durability of granite. In stock at Forte Stone. www.fortestone.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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ST YLE + DESIGN

Sleek teak T

he Cooper Teak Dining Table is a beautiful outdoor dining table that combines high-quality craftsmanship, exceptional durability, and a mid-century inspired design to create a beautiful and functional piece of furniture. Made from premium A-grade teak wood, this table is built to withstand the harsh outdoor elements while maintaining its natural beauty. The design of this table is both sleek and sophisticated, making it the perfect addition to any modern outdoor living space. For more info visit www.teakwarehouse.com/furnitiure/cooper-teak-dining-table

Hand made L

ooking for that special gift or that special look in your own kitchen? The selection of hand-made, hand painted, one-of-a-kind ceramics from Italian Pottery Outlet is a good start. In store at 929 State Street or online at www.Italianpottery.com

Tumble it T

he Everyday Classic Tumbler Set is the perfect gift for family, friends and for yourself. This Baccarat box contains six styles of tumblers: the Beluga, Etna, Vega, Biba, Stella and the Rosa. $600 for the set. Available instore or online at Coast 2 Coast Collection. 805-845-7888

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MONTECITO LANDSCAPE

Creating beautiful gardens for over 50 years

“I love my new landscape, beyond my expectations. Spending more time outside has improved my mood and attitutde toward life. Just wish I had done it sooner!” S. C. Call today for your Free Home Garden Consultation

805-969-3984

montecitolandscape.com

ST YLE + DESIGN

Marble with brass Let your kitchen flourish by indulging in this elegant black marble with a hint of brass. Available at TileCo. For the nearest location, visit their website: www.tilecodist.com

Made local Gorgeous blue glaze pottery made by Carpinteria-based ceramicist Lorie Stout. Vintage bronze spoons are a good add. Available at Domecil. www.domecil.com

Extra room A closed-end patio awning is a great way to gain some extra space without doing a major remodel. For more info, visit www.vannuysawning.com

All style A fresh take on industrial style, the Descanso Pull Down Kitchen Faucet features hashmark knurling on the handles and solid brass construction. Available at Economy Supply. www.economysb.com

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The Beauty of Natural Stone

Whether completely renovating or subtly updating, natural stone transforms homes.

519 N. Quarantina St. Santa Barbara 805.617.3310 Follow us on Instagram @solidrocksb or drop by our showroom.

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OUTDOORS REIMAGINED New life for a California ranch-style home landscape WRITTEN BY NANCY RANSOHOFF PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAVIN CARTER

Lead architect: Rob Maday, Bosky Landscape Architecture General contractor: BEC Builders Landscape construction: Breathtaking Landscaping Furnishings: Elizabeth Vallino Interiors

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hen looking at the scope of projects done by Bosky Landscape Architecture, one word that comes to mind is variety. “We’ve enjoyed working with a wide range of architects over the years, in different styles and on different scales,” says principal and founder Rob Maday, ASLA. “Our emphasis is always on letting the landscape speak to the architecture and the site. At the end of the day, I don’t want anyone to look at a garden and say, ‘That was clearly done by Rob and his team at Bosky.’” After graduating with honors from Cal Poly SLO with a degree in landscape architecture, Maday established Rob Maday Landscape Architecture in 2009. A name change to Bosky Landscape Architecture

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in 2020 reflects the firm’s commitment to sustainability and taking a long view with each project. The meaning of the word bosky refers to an abundance of trees or shrubs, but Maday and his team view the concept on a deeper level. “We approach our profession as a means to counter the lack of abundance in the greater landscape,” says Maday. “As landscape architects, we strive to add an abundance of cooling, habitat, regenerative open spaces, clean water, healthy soils, and spaces to allow community to create, dream, and protect our environment.” A recent project in Montecito illustrates the firm’s emphasis on creating landscapes in keeping with California’s climate and culture. Completed in 2022, the project began as a simple pool rebuild and evolved into a full-site remodel with custom pool cabana, FOOD + HOME

architectural shade elements, sport court, and a full planting refresh. “We came up with the concept of creating a second open-air pergola or trellis element that would give the clients the cover and some of the function they were looking for,” says Maday. The free-standing pergola echoes the clean architectural lines of the home and its existing attached pergola, celebrating and enhancing the outdoor living features of the house. “We used the same language and material while giving them more livability for their indoor-outdoor lifestyle,” says Maday. “That’s really what our charge is: listening to the client, listening to the site, and letting 50

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the design solution flow.” The structure functions as well for pool parties as it does for quiet relaxation, with creature comforts such as overhead heating and lighting, a mounted television, and outdoor shower. A pool equipment enclosure is tucked on the back side. Design details and materials like Kebony sustainable wood flooring add warmth, along with furnishings by Elizabeth Vallino Interiors. “The guiding principle was that we wanted this to be a peaceful refuge,” says Maday. The entire site was refreshed with regionally appropriate plantings, including sago palm, dwarf yedda hawthorn, low-coast rosemary,

and morning light maiden grass. Existing mature coast live oak and olive trees were highlighted, with a new olive tree planted to supplement and provide fresh growth. Updated irrigation and lighting and new hardscape surfaces complete the vision, with BEC Builders as general contractor and Breathtaking Landscaping as landscape contractor. “These spaces are for families to enjoy and to make memories in,” says Maday. “We’re creating landscapes to last and succeed well into the future.” www.boskyland.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

“As landscape architects, we strive to add an abundance of cooling, habitat, regenerative open spaces, clean water, healthy soils, and spaces to allow community to create, dream, and protect our environment.” — Rob Maday, Bosky Landscape Architecture

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GARDEN N OTES

The art of garden design: wabi sabi By Lisa Cullen

ave you heard about wabi sabi? If the term is unfamiliar, read on! Wabi sabi is not what to order at a Japanese restaurant, it’s a design trend. Sometimes called the next feng shui, wabi sabi has its roots in Zen Buddhism. It’s an art form that celebrates the aesthetic character of things imperfect, incomplete, and impermanent. The crack in your old flowerpot, for example, sets it apart from thousands of others of the same design, the weathered stone of your patio makes it unique and something to be celebrated, not replaced. The wabi sabi aesthetic Wabi and sabi are two key Japanese aesthetic concepts. Wabi means things fresh and simple, like quietude and rustic beauty. 52

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It includes things in nature and those made by man and includes small flaws, whether intentional or accidental. Sabi is the element of time showing itself, especially referring to things whose beauty stems from age. It’s moss growing over the roots of a tree, stones worn from years of use, an old garden shed in the corner or a cracked and repaired pot. Over time, these two terms combined to form a new word, wabi sabi, which includes these two ideas. It also suggests things of high quality. There is a Japanese expression suggesting that someone who makes poor quality things is worse than a thief because these things don’t last or provide true satisfaction. Wabi sabi in garden design Wabi sabi garden design works with nature

and doesn’t fight the natural order of things. Elements in this kind of garden would be asymmetry, quality, unconventionality, and sustainability. Durable elements that last in nature as well in the heart of the gardener won’t need replacing for a very long time, if ever, and in fact get better with age. Here are some keys to apply wabi sabi in your garden: Choose plants that are compatible in nature, like a gnarled tree trunk, whose leaves are allowed to remain on the earth, and plants apparently un-pruned allowed to grow into each other. Allowing plants to look as if “they just grew that way” is the wabi sabi way of gardening. In wabi sabi, plants and trees are allowed to grow in their natural shapes as if no pruning were W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

done at all. No cubes and balls in this garden. Strive for asymmetry and imbalance. Allow leaves to accumulate on the ground and plants to spill over into the garden paths. Imagine paths in nature and try to emulate that. Recycle and reuse. Shop at estate sales for garden décor with patina that can only come from use and age. Experiment with mismatched pots and plantings; take your inspiration from nature’s color palette. An old garden shed, spruced up a bit with a faux finish, can become one of the featured elements of your garden. Let nature be your guide when it comes to selecting materials use natural materials that have unique qualities, like recycled wood, natural stone, and gravel. Don’t replace a fountain with cracks, rejoice in its uniqueness. Seek out one-of-a-kind garden elements that will get better with age. Local inspiration I highly recommend getting out and touring some local gardens that celebrate the wabi sabi garden way. The Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, Casa del Herrero and Lotusland as well as the gardens at The San Ysidro Ranch are unparalleled when it comes to the wabi sabi garden philosophy. All these local gardens celebrate getting better with age and allow nature to take the wheel. Pro tip: Be sure to splurge on your imperfections, asymmetry, and uniqueness. It’s the wabi sabi way. Lisa Cullen, landscape designer and organic gardener, owns Montecito Landscape with her husband, Chris. She can be reached at 805.969.3984 or www.montecitolandscape.com

TheCazitaMerchant.com | 805-963-6064 | 930 State Street, Santa Barbara

Designed and built in Santa Barbara by the Tent Merchant Inc. A Cazita can be a pool cabana, guest room, Home office, art studio or any extra space that serves you. Ships nationwide.

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GARDEN N OTES

Ocean friendly gardens By Lisa Cullen

ave you heard? The national weather service has announced that by the end of 2023 and beginning of 2024 we will experience El Niño. The time to prepare for a rainy winter is before it starts. Ensuring your garden is “ocean friendly” should be high on everyone’s list. Since, I could write an entire column on each of these subjects; consider this a brief introduction to get you on your way. Urban Runoff I hate starting out on a downer, but urban runoff or storm drain pollution is the single biggest source of pollution to California’s coastal waters. When it rains, storm water runs over dirty streets, rooftops, parking lots and gardens carrying a toxic cocktail of pollutants that goes straight to our creeks and ocean. Everything we put in our gardens has the potential of ending up on the beach and that includes pesticides, Round Up and chemical fertilizers! No one wants that! But there is an easy solution; transform your landscape to Ocean Friendly in 4 easy steps. 54

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1. Plants-Choose Wisely 50% of your landscape should be Natives and the rest climateappropriate or edible and no invasive species. Turf grass should be kept at a minimum and be maintained sustainably. Wow, that’s not so hard! I think most of us are on that page already! 2. Water & Irrigation Install an efficient irrigation system (drip or rotator sprinklers) with an Automatic Controller. Again! No big deal. I think most of us can check that off as a done. 3. Healthy, Living Soil In many gardens, this is where some might need some work. Healthy, living soil is a long-term

commitment and doesn’t happen overnight. But the key elements are these: • No pesticides, herbicides, or fungicides • No chemical fertilizers. Use compost, worm castings, etc. • No landscape fabric or artificial turf (oh, I’m going to get in trouble for this, but do your own research – The Surfrider Foundation has some very interesting information on this). • Mulch in the form of leaves and wood chips. 4. Prevent run-off by directing water to your property Holy Cow! Really? This is the most challenging of the Ocean Friendly Landscape requirement and should be done for the sake of the planet. • Contour the land to control where the water goes. This can be artfully done with

“dry stream beds” and areas of boulders that mimic nature. • Direct water from roofs and downspouts back into the soil via these faux creek beds or other permeable surfaces (mulched spaces?) • Use permeable paving materials for pathways, courtyards, and driveways. That may seem daunting, but it isn’t. The original permeable surface is gravel. And if you want to walk barefooted, place stones for walking and the rest can be gravel. Lisa Cullen, landscape designer and organic gardener, owns Montecito Landscape with her husband, Chris. She can be reached at 805.969.3984 or www.montecitolandscape.com Sources: Surfrider Foundation, Santa Barbara Channel keeper, Waterwise Santa Barbara County. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

Rain or shine, water conservation needs to be a way of life in Santa Barbara. With rebates like the Sustainable Lawn Replacement Rebate, residents and businesses can replace their water-thirsty lawn with water-wise plants and receive a rebate of up to $2/square foot. Rebate amount is based upon square footage of lawn removed. APPLY FOR A REBATE NOW. Scan here or visit SantaBarbaraCA.gov/Rebates to learn more about our rebate programs. Long-term Water Conservation

Save water and money in the long term with a waterwise garden.

SantaBarbaraCA.gov/WaterWise

ONLY RAIN

Down the Drain! When it rains, pollutants on the ground can quickly wash into our storm drains, creeks, and ocean.

For healthy creeks and beaches, keep pollutants out of our streets and storm drains. Learn more at SBCreeks.com! @SBCreeks W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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ART

Catherine Gee: Merging apparel and art By Nancy Ransohoff

ee comes by her art talent naturally. “Growing up in Nashville, my father was a career artist, a fine painter, so I grew up in an artist studio,” she says. “I was about five years old when he taught me how to draw. His studio was attached to our house, so I really grew up in it and saw him work every single day, setting an example of a strong work ethic.” Her grandmother also provided an influence. “When I was 11 or 12, I had this glimmer of an idea that I wanted to have a silk line someday,” says Gee. “I saw my Chinese grandmother’s silk kimonos in her 56

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closet and that left an impression — the feel of them, the beauty, and I liked the fluidity of it.” Gee attended college at Sewanee: The University of the South in Tennessee, studying fine art and art history. After graduating, she moved to Santa Barbara for a job at Morris B. Squire nonprofit art foundation and later became the director of The Arts Fund. While she was there she found a mentor in Jodi de Marcos, founder of De Marcos Fashion Academy in Santa Barbara. “I started studying with her,” says Gee. “It took me a little over a year of sewing, draping, and fashion illustration, with Jodi teaching me everything

and working toward my idea. Silk was the idea and the medium I wanted to go for.” Gee then launched her business, which now has wholesale showrooms in Atlanta, Dallas, and New York, and sells to about 200 stores around the country. The designer began putting her own prints on silk in 2020. “Our silk prints have become a huge part of our business,” she says. “I want to put out a beautiful quality product that doesn’t look like anything else, and I think because it’s my own artwork it stands out. It’s different. I’m fortunate in that I’ve been able to merge my creativity and artistry into my commercial W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

fashion business. Part of it is also finding that balance of what works on a body, so it’s kind of sculptural, too.” Creative Spark Like many creatives, Gee is inspired by her travels. “When I travel, I go to art museums whenever I can,” she says. “I love abstract expressionism so I like to look at works by artists like Helen Frankenthaler and Mark Rothko, and their color palettes. I keep albums of photos on my phone and, for instance, I might reference a street artist’s abstract rendering on a wall in Paris and apply that to something.” Gee’s design process starts with hand sketches, followed by choosing and sourcing fabrics. Catherine Gee pieces are produced in four factories, with silks at a specialty factory in China, cottons in Peru, cashmere in Mongolia, and velvets and jacquard jackets in Los Angeles. Giving Back Sharing her experience and knowledge is meaningful for Gee. “I understand the importance of mentoring and raising funds for kids who may not otherwise have access,” she says. She offers a three-month internship program at the boutique, for students from VADA (Visual Arts & Design Academy) at Santa Barbara High School and elsewhere, which can sometimes turn into a job. “If they’re interested, we’ll teach them the ropes.”

W v C

Winery - Tasting Rooms

The Barrel Room

The Warehouse

414 Salsipuedes St. 805.965.7985

3563 Numancia St. 805.688.5757

Downtown Santa Barbara

Old Town Santa Ynez

Come in and experience the art of winemaking. www.carrwinery.com

Catherinegee.com

come in

GEt hooked

Get hooked on the best in fresh, sustainable seafood. Enjoy our waterfront patio, free corkage and extensive local wines. Catch us for happy hour, lunch, dinner and brunch on the weekends.

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OR OR D ONLIN ER E 15 e cabrillo blvd tel 805 845 5121

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F+H GALLERY

SUSAN READ CRONIN

“Onward!” Dimensions 15.75” H x 6” W x 12” D Bronze limited edition of 8 www.susanreadcronin.com

MARLENE STRUSS

“Awakening Awareness” Acrylic on panel 16” x 16” www.marlenestruss.com

RUTH HOAG

“Tuileres” Acrylic 30” x 40” www.ruthellenhoag.com

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This Jacson Accent Chair showcases elegant curved lines with a chiseled iron frame in a natural aged black iron finish A casual ivory and warm gray boucle fabric accents this modern look Exclusive Designer Rug

SANTA BARBARA

design center

YOUR HOME FURNISHINGS SOURCE

27 W X 29 H X 27 D

Design and curate the best in interiors to inspire your home. Add a moderninspired rug to your vintage space to mix it up. Available in any size and color.

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ADVENTURE OUTSIDE

Photos by Chuck Graham

Yes Store comes home at last by Jeff Miller

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ADVENTURE OUTSIDE

Nature’s bridge

Eye witness to winter’s passage into spring By Chuck Graham

ature’s fury was beckoning. The winter of 2023 was about to unleash a tumult unseen in my 17 years of photographing the Carrizo Plain National Monument, the last of California’s grasslands. Nevertheless, I wasn’t deterred by heavy wintry weather. It was Feb. 25, 2023, and weather predictions had remained consistent for seven days. Substantial snowfall would be as low as 500 feet. Temperatures plummeted. I just had to get there. Nature’s call At 2:30 a.m., Carpinteria was in a deep slumber with a wet blanket of overcast hanging low over the coastal enclave. However, I was up and motivated to reach the Carrizo Plain. My favored route, Highway 33 through Ojai and the Los Padres National Forest, had been closed for two months due to winter storms in December 2022. As I drove north on Highway 101, I soon discovered Highway 166 east out of Santa Maria was shut down too. One more possibility remained. It was further north, out of Santa Margarita and Highway 58. About three miles east I ran into another road closure where the 58 and Interstate 229 converged. A fallen oak tree deterred my advance on the 229, so I drove back to Highway 58, and continued through the road closure. It wasn’t long before I saw why the road was compromised. Abandoned cars covered in fresh snow were scattered along the shoulders of the road, which was barely visible at that point. Yet, as I continued east, the sun’s early morning rays penetrated the tempest all the way to Soda Lake Road on the Carrizo Plain. Although that path was closed, I’d come too far not to witness the sweeping grasslands seemingly transformed into Arctic tundra. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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SUSTAINABLE & SUPER FRESH

LOCAL SEAFOOD DELIVERY Get weekly or biweekly delivery to your door or nearby pick-up site

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Fine Mexican Cuisine

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In the past I’d seen only dustings of snow on the Temblor and Caliente mountains that border the grasslands east and west. After sneaking past another road closure, I scanned my binoculars across frigid Soda Lake, where fresh snow covered every swath of the 250,000-acre grassland biome. As my breath wafted skyward in the chilly air, the historic Saucito Ranch appeared like a lonely farmstead on a barren midwestern plain. From Soda Lake Road, I watched tule elk traversing the snowy, rolling Caliente Mountains. As the day wore on, the snow gradually melted away on the plain at an elevation of 2,200 feet. The mountains remained thoroughly cloaked in snow into the next day, but as the snow continued receding across the grasslands, a vibrant carpet of greenery revealed itself. Instantly, I envisioned a brilliant spring bloom of wildflowers. At that moment, there was no way of telling. Too much rain or a freeze can derail a potential bloom, but seven weeks later I had a definitive answer. An explosion of colors There might not be a better, more colorful place to experience a wildflower bloom than the Carrizo Plain. In terms of its impressive topography and diversity of native flora, the splash of colors can extend for miles. Early on, during the spring of 2023, hillside daisies and fiddlenecks brightened the mountainsides in vibrant yellows. Toward mid-April, purples, oranges, pinks, and blues filled in the gaps creating a fleeting visual that would stop any nature lover in their tracks. My personal favorite wildflower canvas was of native species clustered tightly together. On hillsides, tall stalks of desert candles were surrounded by hillside daisies and blazing stars. At lower elevations prickly thistle sage was surrounded by owl’s clover and tidy tips. My quest was to locate the best, most concentrated display of wildflowers the Carrizo Plain could offer. During the third week of April, at the peak of the bloom, I found myself on the sweeping Elkhorn Plain, a less-frequented escarpment within the national monument’s southeastern fringe. After arriving, I pitched my tent that night, anticipating first light converging with valley phacelia, a brilliant purple wildflower that explodes in profusion. I’ve heard first-time visitors refer to huge swaths of phacelia in the grasslands as a body of water, some distant illusion that captivates the imagination, an honest mistake spanning far-reaching horizons. However, there was no mistaking the winter and spring 2023, two natural wonders, one enhancing the other. As first light pierced the mesh of my tent, phacelia was brilliantly backlit as the rest of Elkhorn Plain brightened in a throng of stunning hues, a natural moment I’m still savoring. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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WINE TRAVEL S

Grape escape!

Savor the best of Washington’s Walla Walla Valley By Hana-Lee Sedgwick

ucky for us, some of California’s finest wine regions are just a stone’s throw away. Exploring the wineries of the Central Coast is one of my favorite activities, both professionally and personally. However, my wine adventures often take me beyond our local vineyards to other regions, throughout California and to other states. One place I’ve enjoyed visiting over the years is the Walla Walla Valley in Washington. Walla Walla may be famous for its sweet onions, but it’s become a premium location for growing wine grapes, too. Situated along the Washington-Oregon border, the Walla Walla Valley AVA is home to the highest concentration of wineries in Washington State, featuring over 135 wineries and nearly 3,000 acres under vine. 64

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Sharing a similar latitude to that of Bordeaux, France, it’s no surprise that grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot thrive, but Walla Walla is also renowned for its syrah (the second most planted grape). And, though you will find some white varietals on tasting lists, such as chardonnay and viognier, most are sourced from other areas of Washington, since only five percent of Walla Walla’s total planted acres are dedicated to white grapes. In short, if you’re a red wine enthusiast, this is a great spot to visit. Here’s how to make your trip extra memorable. Where to stay One of my personal favorite places to stay is the Inn at Abeja. This century-old farmsteadturned-inn and winery, located just a few

miles outside of town, is inarguably one of the most serene retreats in the region. Each spacious guest room and cottage is a nod to the property’s rich history, adorned with vintage decor and historical photographs, while plush in-room amenities and thoughtful details ensure a stay feels extra relaxing. As a guest you’ll be treated to a delicious twocourse breakfast each morning, and a tasting of Abeja’s own acclaimed estate wines during your stay. On weekends the inn’s on-site restaurant welcomes guests and locals to savor a multi-course menu of seasonal delicacies, with optional wine pairings. If you’d prefer to be within walking distance to downtown Walla Walla’s shops and restaurants, The Finch is a great budgetW W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

friendly (and dog-friendly) option. This reimagined 80-room motel charms with an artsy, youthful vibe, featuring local art and communal games like giant Jenga and cornhole. Alternatively, consider downtown’s The Marcus Whitman. Steeped in history, this 1920s-era hotel once ranked among Washington’s finest, regularly hosting celebrities and dignitaries. While renovations have added such modern conveniences as Wi-Fi, in-room coffee makers, and Tesla charging stations, the hotel still retains its classic elegance. Where to taste The Walla Walla Valley is divided into six wine districts, each with its own unique vibe and offerings. Due to the region’s small size, however, they’re easily drivable between each other, making it possible to taste through the region in a few days. Start with a visit to the picturesque vineyards of the Southside District, such as Pepper Bridge, for elegant examples of merlot and cabernet; Valdemar, for Spanish wine and tapas; or Brook and Bull, for untraditional blends by celebrated winemaker Ashley Trout. Also, don’t miss newcomer Kinhaven, for small-lot wines and vineyard views, as well as fellow newbie, Alton Wines, where an array of wines can be enjoyed within the light-filled, modern tasting room. On the Westside you’ll find many of Walla Walla’s oldest wineries, such as Woodward Canyon, along with industrial spots, like the art-forward Foundry Vineyards. Across town is the Eastside, where Abeja is located, as well as the innovative Airport District. Be sure to visit up-and-comers Hoquetus Wine Co., SMAK, and Itä Wines. In downtown Walla Walla, tasting rooms abound, so you’ll have your choice of options. Check out the chic new Dossier; the master sommelier co-founded Echolands; actor Kyle MacLachlan’s Pursued by Bear; and Rasa, for terroir-driven wines. Finally, farthest south is the Oregon District, home of the famed Rocks District, a sub-AVA most noted for syrah. Where to eat Start the morning off right with breakfast at Bacon & Eggs, where hearty, locavore offerings are accompanied by coffee, cocktails, and a bustling atmosphere. For lunch, you can’t beat AK’s Mercado. Get an order of tacos, served on homemade tortillas and stuffed with braised meats and salsas, or opt for the extra spicy VooDoo Fries. For dinner, don’t miss Passatempo Taverna, a local favorite for its handmade pastas and inventive cocktails; Saffron, for inspired Mediterranean fare; Hattaways, for a taste of the South; or Brasserie Four, beloved for its classic French fare. How to get there Given its location in Southeast Washington, Walla Walla may seem a little isolated, but there are several ways to get there. Alaska Airlines offers flights from Santa Barbara (SBA) and San Luis Obispo (SBP) to Walla Walla (ALW ), with layovers in Seattle. While you can’t beat Alaska’s Wine Flies Free program, Delta flies directly from Los Angeles (LAX) to Spokane, WA (GEG), putting you within a 2.5-hour drive of Walla Walla. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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WINEMAKER PROFILE

Burgundian expressions

Winemaker Kamee Knutson is on a quest to let Talbott’s Sleepy Hollow Vineyard shine By Hana-Lee Sedgwick

he story of Talbott Vineyards goes back to 1950, when Robert Talbott Sr. and his family opened their eponymous tie company in Carmel Valley. It was during silk-buying trips to France when the Talbotts first encountered the world of Burgundian wines, igniting a dream to craft their own Burgundian-style wines in California. This vision came to life in 1982 when Talbott Sr., and his son, Robb, founded Talbott Vineyards and began planting chardonnay and pinot noir vines in what would become the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. By the early 1990s, Talbott Vineyards had grown to produce 100 percent estate wines, bolstered by the family’s significant acquisition of the area’s esteemed Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. Originally planted in 1972, this sprawling 565-acre vineyard is dedicated entirely to chardonnay and pinot noir. Given its close proximity to the coast, just 12 miles from Monterey Bay, the vines are graced with steady maritime influences, which, coupled with 66

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gravelly loam soils and ample sunlight, create ideal conditions for nurturing the distinct flavor profiles of Burgundian grapes. In fact, it was the unique terroir of Sleepy Hollow Vineyard that first drew Kamee Knutson, Talbott’s recently appointed senior winemaker, to the brand. “Sleepy Hollow is truly unlike any other place,” Knutson remarks. “With cool mornings and occasional fog followed by afternoon breezes, conditions stay cool throughout the day, allowing the grapes to ripen gradually over a long period of time.” The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA is widely known for its “mineral-driven, saline-like wines,” she explains, “but wines from Sleepy Hollow showcase incredible depth and complexity, balancing bright acid and minerality with delicate aromas and concentrated fruit flavors. It’s the ability to extract such intricate nuances from terroir that really fuels my passion for winemaking.” For California native Knutson, the journey into winemaking was serendipitous. Initially intent on becoming an architect, she

enrolled in California Polytechnic State University (Cal Poly), but during her second year, an elective class on wine and viticulture quickly changed her career trajectory. “I discovered that wine is the perfect blend of science and art, and felt driven to pursue winemaking as a career,” she says. Knutson soon took an internship with Tolosa Winery in the Edna Valley, and was hired on as their assistant winemaker immediately after graduating. Knutson honed her wine skills over a decade at Tolosa, followed by time at a custom crush in Monterey before joining Gallo in 2016 as their Burgundy winemaker. Her passion for coolclimate grapes, including from the Santa Lucia Highlands, led her to Talbott Vineyards in 2018, where she took over as head winemaker in 2022. Now, having completed her second vintage with Talbott Vineyards — her 23rd vintage overall — Knutson is a vital part of Talbott’s story, and is dedicated to honoring Sleepy Hollow Vineyard through each and every wine made. “We have

the unique opportunity of being the only producer sourcing from Sleepy Hollow, giving us total control over both vineyard and winemaking practices,” adds Knutson. “We aim to be good stewards of this land by implementing sustainable solutions so the vines can produce beautiful fruit for years to come. Our team is deeply invested in every aspect, from vine to bottle, and we’ve committed to making wines that express this vineyard to its full extent.” Under Knutson’s guidance, Talbott Vineyards continues to evolve, staying true to the traditional style of its past while pushing the limits of what’s possible from these vines. “Sleepy Hollow is such an extraordinary site, and my goal is to showcase its many varied expressions,” she says. “From bright, fresh wines to richer, more complex wines, my hope is to continue highlighting its distinct personalities and flavors, guiding the legacy of this vineyard and its wines forward.” For more info, visit: talbottvineyards.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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Cozy winter wines LIGHT A FIRE AND POUR YOURSELF SOMETHING COMFORTING FROM THE CENTRAL COAST By Hana-Lee Sedgwick

ith the whirlwind of the holiday season long behind us, it’s time to find solace in the quieter months of winter. This time of year finds me longing to curl up with a warm blanket, a crackling fire, and something delicious in my glass — and I’m sure I’m not the only one! So, if you’re on the lookout for some “cozy” wines to sip until the weather warms up, look no farther than these five local bottlings, sure to become your new fireside favorites.

Luna Hart Hinnrichs Vineyard Syrah ($45) Cabernet sauvignon is most often associated with winter, but syrah, known for its robust profile, is one of my go-to winter wines. However, its character can vary significantly depending on where it’s grown. Think the elegance of Côte Rotie syrah versus the bolder, richer styles of Australian shiraz. This Ballard Canyon syrah, crafted by winemaker Gretchen Voelker, exemplifies the more refined and spirited side of the varietal. Showcasing fresh red and black fruits, black olive, and white pepper, along with lively acidity and balanced tannins, it strikes the perfect chord between delicate and finessed and structured and complex. That harmonious balance between masculine and feminine (much like the symbolic moon and stag adorning its label) sets this wine apart, and I have no doubts you’ll savor every sip.

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Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay ($40) I may be biased, but I truly believe Santa Barbara County produces some of the world’s best chardonnays: racy, minerally, textural, and showcasing pure varietal character. If that sounds like your jam, you’ll likely enjoy this bottling from winemaker Greg Brewer of Brewer-Clifton. Highlighting fruit from three vineyards within the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, it’s a powerful yet ethereal expression of the region. Aromas of lemon, mango, and orange blossom lead to a bright palate loaded with citrus, white peach, and ginger, while a stream of salty minerality anchors the precise finish. It’s a great value bottling from the Sta. Rita Hills, and a perfect introduction to the region’s chardonnays. The Paring Red Blend ($25) I have long enjoyed what winemaker Matt Dees produces for JONATA and The Hilt, but their higher price points don’t scream “everyday drinkers.” Luckily, The Paring is a great

alternative, sourced from the same vineyards as its aforementioned sibling labels, but designed for easy, everyday enjoyment. The latest Red Blend vintage — comprising 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, 19 percent cabernet franc, 7 percent merlot, and 7 percent petit verdot — is a bold, yet approachable wine, and what Dees describes as “a constant play between sweet and savory.” Indeed, you’ll find prominent red and black fruit flavors mixed with espresso, game, and herbal notes, while easy-going tannins and a long finish add to its crowdpleasing character. Drink this full-bodied wine now, or in a few years; just know it over-delivers for the price. Dafoe Suntoucher Syrah ($52) This syrah from winemaker Rob Dafoe showcases the expressive character of syrah from the Alisos Canyon AVA: dark and decadent, yet seamless and elegant in the glass. Made from old-vine syrah grapes from Thompson Vineyard, it reveals enticing black currant, boysenberry, and plum aromas,

accented by notes of black pepper and clove. On the palate, noticeable black-fruit flavors converge with tobacco, leather, and spice, while ample acidity and graceful tannins add complexity to the long, smooth finish. Savor it slowly to enjoy all its nuances. optik French Camp Vineyard Petite Sirah ($50) Petite sirah is known for its rich flavors, bold tannins, and high alcohol levels. Clearly, it’s not the type of wine you’d gulp down without a thought, making it a perfect choice for wintry nights in. This one from optik, a collaboration between winemaker Joey Tensley and the Miller family, is dark and brooding, offering complex notes of dark cherry, blueberry, mocha, menthol, and cassis. Although bold and rich, its rounded tannins and supple texture ensure it is approachable enough to sip on its own. However, I’d suggest pairing this Paso Robles wine with something fatty or umami-rich (bring on the winter comfort foods!) for maximum enjoyment. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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2 1. Opal Blackberry Jalapeño Margarita with Espolon Reposado, blackberry-jalapeño purée, lime juice, and Cuarenta y Tres. www.opalrestaurantandbar.com 2. Bluewater Grill The famous Fanny Bay oysters from British Columbia served on a bed of ice with cocktail sauce, horseradish, mignonette sauce, chive oil, and lemon wedges. The best pairing for these delicious fresh oysters would be a glass of Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. www.bluewatergrill.com 70

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3. Café Playa Azul – Pescado en Salsa Verde. Fresh halibut sautéed with olive oil and tomato sauce, garlic, onions and olives. Served with flour tortillas. www.laplaya-azul.com 4. Cajun Kitchen – File Gumbo. Chicken and spicy sausage gumbo served over rice and topped with green onions. www.cajunkitchencafe.com 5. Jane – The Jane Burger featuring gouda cheese, caramelized onions and garlic aioli. www.janesb.com 6. Holdren’s – Spicy Tuna Tartar. Hand-cut ahi tuna, sliced cucumber, fresh avocado, wasabi aioli and crostini. www.holdrens.com 72

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WINE + DINE

A touch of the islands

f you’re looking for some tropical adventure at cocktail hour you might want to order the ever popular Pineapple Express from the cocktail menu at Intermezzo by the Wine Cask. Enjoy with a picture of the islands in your mind. The Kula notes make for a great after supper choice as well. Cocktail ingredients: Kula White Rum, Kula Toasted Coconut Rum, smoked pineapple juice, pineapple orgeat, fresh lime juice, floater of Kula Dark Rum, topped off with an Aperol coconut foam and a sprinkle of toasted coconut shavings. www.intermezzosb.com 813 Anacapa St.

7. Intermezzo by the Wine Cask – www.intermezzosb.com 813 Anacapa St. 8. Natural Café – The Gobbler Burger features a ground turkey patty that’s charbroiled and topped with grilled red onions, tomato, and sprouts on a whole-wheat bun with thousand island dressing. www.thenaturalcafe.com\ 9. Olio e Limone – Burrata con Pepperoncini. Imported Italian burrata cheese, heirloom tomato, roasted and marinated eggplant, bell peppers, and mixed greens. www.olioelimone.com 74

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10. bouchon Santa Barbara – Duck Confit of Thigh served on a succotash of sweet corn, fava beans, 2 leeks, applewood-smoked bacon, and Windrose Farms butternut squash, finished with a port-thyme demi-glaze. www.bouchonsantabarbara.com 11. Stella Mare’s – Moules Frites a la Crème. Mussels sautéed in white wine and Pernod, braised leeks, shallots, cream sauce. Served with house made French fries. Pairs well with beer. www.stellamares.com 76

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Intermezzo by Ashley Othic. Brass Bear by Aron Ives.

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Books FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO READ

anta Barbara is known for its historic mission, its beautiful architecture, its beaches and mountains. Less well known is another rich asset, its wealth of authors. Anyone who’s unaware of that wealth that should have been at the SB Library’s Main Branch on Dec. 2, where more than 60 writers of all stripes gathered for the annual Local Author Book Fair in the Faulkner Gallery. Actually, there were so many that the kiosks loaded with fiction, histories, memoires, young-adult novels, guidebooks, and more, spilled out of the gallery into the lobby. In recognition of this rich resource, Food + Home with this publication launches its Local Author Series. In each issue we will feature introductions to the writers who call Santa Barbara County home, plus excerpts from one of their books and links to their web pages. We hope it serves as a boost for both the writers and the reading public.

“American as Apple Pie” And Rodney Chow has the apple farm to prove it

t’s fitting that this issue, with its launch of the Local Author Series, should include the story of Rodney H. Chow. And a wonderful story it is. We’ll let Rodney tell it in his own words, in excerpts from his autobiography, “American as Apple Pie.” But we’ll start with the ending, in which, after his long road, he and his wife, Joy, have ended up selling apples from their Oxnard farm at local Farmers Markets. “Initially we gave our apples to friends and relatives,” writes Chow atop chapter 34, entitled, “The Good Life.” “As the trees matured, it became urgent to find a way to unload the beautiful harvest. So, I joined the Farmers Market in Summerland, just a few 78

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minutes from our farm.” Eventually the Chows joined the Santa Barbara Certified Farmers Markets. As he describes it, “Reality soon dawned on us. Farming is a serious business.” But also a heart-filled one. “We learned that it was more than just a place for locals to buy farm fresh products. It was also a place where friends meet … I would not have gotten to know so many throughout the County if I hadn’t been part of the Farmers Market. Like those from Ojai, those Santa Barbara and Carpinteria citizens are down to earth. I could not tell the common laborers from the professionals. No one cared. I felt comfortable among them. I knew they accepted me as a friend because they liked me. It has been

a long journey.” That journey and Chow’s life began in 1929. Chow’s ancestors had come to America around 1812. His father grew pears on an 80acre farm in Locke, CA, but lost everything in the early Depression. That landed them in Los Angeles’s old Chinatown in 1930. After the saga of Chow’s youth, he tells of graduating from USC in 1952 with a BE in engineering, and immediately being drafted. After his service in the Army, and after marrying Joy, Chow’s long road led back to Los Angeles and the beginning of a career in civil engineering. One of his projects led them north. “We came to the Carpinteria Valley to get away from city life,” Chow writes. “I knew very

little about farming, but thought starting an orchard would be exciting.” And that led to the creation of Bright Spring Ranch, whose name alone is a fascinating story within a story. “Many years have passed,” Chow writes toward the end of the book, “and now I feel I am as American as anyone. It has been a journey that has taken me a lifetime. I succeeded by concentrating on the good and not dwelling on the bad.” Says the book’s last sentence, “We are all a part of a family known as Americans.” “American as Apple Pie” by Rodney H. Chow is available in paperback and Kindle edition on Amazon.com. W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

BOOKS

Elizabeth Foscue

them up together, your rat-Broadway becomes the rat-Octagon as they fight and scream and consume one another. But this is way more detail than most clients want. I gave an apologetic shrug and pulled the metal clipboard from under my arm, turning to a fresh estimate form. “Oh my god, oh my god. Listen, okay? We can tent it if you’re done by four. The Guests are wine-tasting in Santa Ynez but they’ll be back for dinner.” Clients always want the job done by four, if not immediately. And, as my dad likes to say, if wishes had wings, bullfrogs wouldn’t bump their butts jumping over logs. I wrote a nice, big number at the bottom of the form, ripped the sheet off the pad, and handed it over. “The structure will have to be vacated for seventy-two hours. And we can’t get to it before Thursday.” I turned and padded over to the path I’d walked in on. If there was any traffic on the 101, I was going to be late. “Call that number if you want to get on the schedule.” “Wait!” Irma shook the estimate at me. “Where are you going?” I answered without looking back as I hurried in the direction of the service lot. “School.”

s an introduction, we couldn’t improve on the mini-bio on her web page, so here it is intact: Elizabeth Foscue grew up in a house on a Florida bay and on a boat in the Caribbean Sea. A hurricane got the house, but the boat has fared better. She earned a B.A. in Linguistics from the University of Florida, then a J.D. and L.L.M. from Georgetown University Law Center, and in the midst of all that got married in a church on a hill in the British Virgin Islands. Elizabeth lives in Santa Barbara, California, with her husband, kids, and two Tortola-born coconut retrievers.” Her first book, “Pest,” is a YA novel, “but it made Washington Post’s adult-focused Noteworthy Book list in April 2022, so I believe it has crossover appeal,” wrote the author. Plot summary: “High school senior and pest control technician Hallie Mayhew stumbles through the lavish estates of Montecito and the mean streets of Santa Barbara in pursuit of college scholarships, justice, and maybe even romance.” Her second novel, “Boat Girl,” has just been released.

Elizabeth Foscue’s website www.elizabethfoscue.com

Sue Perry

“Pest”

By Elizabeth Foscue “Rats,” I said. “What? No. Are you sure?” It was the last day of August and the Montecito morning was almost warm. The soothing tinkle of a water feature screened the ambient sounds of lawnmowers and leaf blowers. The sky was blue and clear and the air smelled of flowering jasmine. I stared down at the field of scattered rat poo. “Yes.” Irma, the house manager, said some very bad words in Spanish and stomped back and forth across a patch of wooly thyme. The chateaustyle Montecito estate had been recently landscaped, the guest cottage planted with a thoughtful mix of drought-tolerant succulents and a ground cover of flowering ice plant. Rats love ice plant. “How did they get in?” Irma wailed. “No, it doesn’t matter. You have to get them out. The Guests,” — she referred to them with verbal capitals — “say the noise kept them up all night long.” This I did not doubt. The rustic plaster application on the exterior walls camouflaged the telltale rat smudges, but to a trained eye W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

— which, I’m sad to say, mine is — they were everywhere. And the rat runways, those little trails rats bushwhack as they go about their ratty business, were spacious boulevards. This place had serious numbers of rats in the ceiling and anyone staying here would be getting an all-night, all-rat revue. “We’ll have to tent it,” I said. “What?” Irma looked like she might have a stroke. “No! Where will The Guests go?” There must have been ten bedrooms in the enormous house I’d passed in my search for the service lot, but maybe sharing a roof with visitors was considered gauche, maybe the main house had bad feng shui, maybe the guests were Suppressive Persons — I didn’t even ask. Rich Montecito weirdos make all other rich weirdos look like amateurs. “Can’t you just block up the hole? Trap them in there?” Irma pleaded. Trapped rats are cannibalistic. If you seal

riting is my vocation and the only job that has ever mattered,” writes Sue Perry. “As a writer, I can do what I want, pursue any interest, try something new each time.” And she’s tried many new things in her impressively varied work life, including babysitter, duck caretaker. switchboard operator, warehouse clerk, bank lackey, secretary, substitute teacher, bookkeeper, bureaucrat, motion picture story analyst, low-budget TV producer, scientific research internship director, earthquake consultant, professor, and disaster scientist. The much-traveled author of nine novels, she now lives in Carpinteria. The following is a plot summary from “The Summer Land, An Historical Drama from a Supernatural Time”: “1891. A runaway boy happens upon a mysterious young girl, all on her own with amazing powers. He brings her to Summerland, California, so that she can learn to live safely around people and he can hide from his past. Summerland is a brand new town, a spiritualist colony attracting many kinds of seekers, including psychic investigators, oil speculators, the recently deceased, and these two stray children in need of a family.” FOOD + HOME

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Excerpt:

“The Summer Land” Chapter 1 – 1891 – Jack The Southern California Coast

verything is to be found in nature, the known and the unknown, and there is no such thing as the supernatural. Eclipses, comets, and strange stars were formerly considered signs of divine wrath, before men were acquainted with their laws. Very often things are called supernatural which are only wonderful, inexplicable, or extraordinary. When we meet with such, we should say, quietly, “this belongs to the unknown.” – 1902, Camille Flammarion, spiritualist & astronomer Jack struck the rock against the pipe, fast and sharp to make sparks jump. Flame burst from the ground, swallowed the sparks, formed a white hot teardrop of fire in the dirt. Jack grinned. Here was a firelight with no flicker whatsoever and just one skinny ghost of stinky black smoke, floating up to heaven, making angels wrinkle their perfect noses. The stink put a coat on Jack’s tongue. He blinked his eyes clear. Yes, plenty of gas right 80

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here, this hole could light their ballgames for many nights if they burned it slow. He’d been right to take his time with this new firelight, pounding a hole at a careful angle, just like how the Tar Man had showed him. The other boys cheered and ran to their positions, marks scuffed into the dirt. But they were only two plays into a ballgame when somebody shouted “Hey, stagecoach coming!” then somebody yelled “Can’t be! Tide’s too high!” and everybody was running toward the beach. Once, a wave at high tide had knocked the stagecoach upside its head, and none of the boys had gotten to see that crash. Everybody ran to the beach except Jack. At 11, he was younger than the other boys, but times like this, he felt considerably older. The other boys were always trying to get experiences that Jack would sooner forget. Like seeing dead bodies. Fog rolled off the ocean, making Jack and firelights shiver. The new firelight flared, browning the fog, burning a whole lot of gas to light this empty field. At last, here the boys came, back to the field, shoving each other and laughing. The stagecoach must still be rolling. This ballgame was not to be. Now supper bells clanged in the foggy air, calling boys home. The fog had a bite tonight and nobody argued for one last play. The boys headed toward their bells. Jack plugged the holes of the firelights, hoisted his bag of tools and belongings, and left the field as though he were heading for a bell, too. In each place he stopped to work or play, he pretended he lived some other place. Leaving the ballgames, he always headed north and east, as though to the ranches along the trail to Ojai: near enough that, sure, he’d walk down to Carpinteria to play ball; far enough that these boys never expected to see him at school. He wasn’t at school, of course. Teachers mean well but they’re nosy. Last spring he had to avoid folks during school hours. This school year would be easier, now that Mam had her house. When the other boys were sure to be at their supper tables, Jack returned to the ocean. The fog rolled back out to sea, leaving oaks that gleamed silver. The moon was up already, and nearly full. Cookfires dotted the flat bluffs beside the tar pit. The men who mined the tar pit had sleeping quarters but usually slept outside. Some folks complained about that but nobody tried to stop it. Jack could see men tending pots and unrolling bedrolls – that’s how bright the moon was. This was as good a night as he’d get to walk Saizie to Mam’s house in Summerland. Five miles, one way. Hours of walking for Saizie’s sturdy little legs. She was strong enough to manage the walk, and she had agreed to go, but that didn’t mean he could get her to do it. Please lord, if there is a god for children who don’t go to church, help me to help Saizie. If Saizie appeared, they’d go tonight. He only

saw her one, two nights a week. He could never get her to say where she was on other nights. She’d just act confused that he asked, like no days had passed in between. She had a different idea about time, that was for sure, and not just because she was little. Jack dropped his bag on the far edge of the cookfires, then crawled into the thick brush beside the creek. Thanks to the moonlight, he didn’t have to grope for his hollow log. He dragged out his bedroll and did one last pat of the log’s cavity. Empty. Good. He’d moved all the rest of his belongings to Mam’s. As soon as he got Saizie settled there, he could move his bedroll, too. He didn’t have any food for a cookfire but he started a few sticks burning just the same. Whatever I prepare for never happens. So if he prepared for a good night’s sleep next to this comfortable fire, maybe that would guarantee he’d have to stay awake, walking Saizie to Mam’s. Off the bluffs were two bright ball moons, one hanging in the sky and one floating in the ocean. When waves crashed into the rocks below, they shot silver spray as high as the cypress on the bluffs. In the silences between crashes, owls hooted from the creek. Owls seemed to like to announce themselves. They gave their dinners a head start. The owls went quiet mid–hoot. The thick brush hid a strange commotion near the creek. Crashes and rustles and snaps and clomps. Branches shook like a wind rose from inside the brush. A giggle tickled his ears and filled his head with bubbles. Saizie. She burst out of the brush in a swirl of leaves and critters. Gophers and foxes circled her like playmates. Bats and sparrows chirped like old friends. Butterflies and hummingbirds darted and hovered like Saizie was a flower that wouldn’t hold still. “Saizie!” Jack hissed, trying to not draw attention. Probably the cookfires were too far away for anyone to notice the strange mix of little girl with critters, hunters with prey, day critters with night. At Jack’s hiss, the animals slipped back into the brush and the swirling stopped, so quick anyone would question what their eyes had just told them. Saizie was filthy and messy, Jack was happy to see. Her long black hair was so tangled it looked short. She had twigs and dirt all over and she looked sticky even from way over here. Jack’s stomach rolled over. Filthy and messy weren’t enough. Saizie shone brighter than the moonlight and you could feel the dark warm of her eyes even when hair blocked their view. She was too beautiful. She stopped giggling when she saw his face. www.sueperryauthoor.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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Evolution of a wine snob By Bob Wesley

ine was first produced about 8,000 years ago, though even certain present-day humans, whom I call vinum imbecilus, can eradicate the joys and exhilaration often captured in a bottle of fermented grape juice. Humanity has long sought to transfigure its senses (“get intoxicated”) via multitudinous methodologies, from licking toads (Eeeew!) to ingesting various forest-based fungi and greenery, though fermentation and distillation remain as the most popular inebriation modus operandi. Beer, spirits, and of course wine all lead the pack, but I swear I’ve 82

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rarely if ever noted the word “snob” applied to any beverage consumer other than a vino guzzler. The ascent of humankind has invariably included the inception of pretentious braggarts in all forms, from art snobs to music snobs to travel snobs. (“Really, darling, summering in Rio de Janeiro is so utterly démodé.”) Wine is unique in that every stratum of society can cherish its impacts, from the hobo in an alleyway savoring the superb aromatic profile emanating from his bottle of paper-bagwrapped Thunderbird, to the One Percenter in a lavish penthouse, trying to decide which year of Dom Perignon would offer the

grandest enticement to pair with $10,000 worth of Beluga caviar and a white truffle the size of a Spalding softball. Betwixt these societal extremes, all manner of conceited vinous condescension can appear, invariably spouted by an oenophilic imbecile, a single know-it-all doofus equipped with a teensy bit o’ knowledge attempting to one-up, for example, someone else’s perfectly delightful Bordeaux selection: “Why, I was in Napa last week where they make REAL Cabernet!” (As George Thorogood wisely said, “Whenever I drink alone, I prefer to be by myself.”) An attitudinal person such as

this will remain forever at the rear of the evolutionary pack, despite his superiority complex or fancy tuxedo. (Wine opinions implemented as psychological weaponry should be banned by the Geneva Convention.) To these pompous vulgarians, I defer to and quote Yortuk Festrunk from Saturday Night Live: “Hi, swinger! Why don’t you buy a drink for yourself, and enjoy it?” Bob Wesley is a Santa Ynez based wine buying consultant and writer specializing in California wines. You can reach him at maisonbob@aol.com W W W.FOOD–HOME.COM

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