Christmastime in Quebec City

By Lisa Morales

Even those who prefer wintering in hibernation or sunning themselves in warm climates enjoy a holiday stop in Québec City. The old-world charm and elegant decorations both indoors and out is a treat. From tiny tots wobbling on ice skates to older couples with piles of fur covers on their laps in sleighs, everyone can find a way to enjoy the crisp air and inevitable snow. My very favorite things about the holiday season in Québec are the festive food and drink. Whether roasted chestnuts hot from rolled paper cones or hot mulled wine, vin chaud, the warmth is in your hand and in your heart.

My Québécois ancestors brought to New England the traditional French meat pie eaten on both Christmas and New Year’s Day in my family. Made by my grandJoyeux Noël Bonne Année mére with a combination of ground veal, pork and beef there are uncountable family recipes. The spice mixture contains mace, nutmeg, black pepper and cinnamon. It is a dish that exclaims abundance and wishes all good fortune in the coming year. Enjoy with a hearty red wine that stands up to the heady, aromatic spices. Joyeux Noël and Bonne Année!

Photos, this page from left: Beautiful shop windows in the old city ©Lisa Morales; Magical experience all over centre ville downtown ©Lisa Morales; Marché de Noel in Old Québec ©Lisa Morales; Outdoor dining in all weather ©Lisa Morales; Opposite, top-to-bottom: The Mission church of the Sacred Heart ©Lisa Morales; The caleches take visitors around in style © Lisa Morales

Heat oven to 400 F

Flaky pastry for a double crust 9 inch pie

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 tablespoons neutral oil, like canola 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 medium-size yellow onions, peeled and diced ½ cup dry white wine or stock 1 pound ground pork 1 pound ground veal 1 pound ground beef ½ teaspoon ground white pepper ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon ground clove Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg ½ cup instant potato flakes, more as needed to absorb liquid

Sweat onions in butter and oil until soft but do not brown. Add broth, water, and/or wine.

Add meats and spices and cook until meat is not pink, do not brown, about 7 minutes.

Remove from heat and add potato flakes. If mixture is too soupy, add one teaspoon at a time.

Cool the mixture. Line pie pan with bottom crust, fill with meat mixture, place top crust and crimp. Cut a ½ inch round vent in the center of the top crust. Brush top crust with egg wash.

Place pie in oven on hot baking sheet, and cook for 20 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350, and cook until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbling, about 30 to 40 minutes more. Let cool 20 minutes before serving.