Summer Special Issue. 1, Vol. 1, May-July 2010
Oman’s first premier travel magazine
Silence of the Jebels Globe-Trail
Oman-Trail
Magic of the Maasai Merhaba! Welcome to Turkey Climbing Mt Kinabalu Driving Green – Ireland
Salalah calling Desert saga Fashion, Travel trivia, Souq shopping, Oman visitors & more May-July 2010
1
C o n t e n t s Editor-in-chief Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali Managing editor Priya Arunkumar Work editor Adarsh Madhavan Design and production Beneek Siraj Photographer Najib Al Balushi Advt. & marketing Rajeev Kalle, Ali Al Raisi, Swithun Fernandes Printers Oman Printers
A
46 presentation
Published by: Muscat Press & Publishing House SAOC Postal address: P O Box 86, PC 115, Madinat Sultan Qaboos Office location: Hatat House, Office no: 212, II Floor Ph: 24565697 Fax: 24565496 e-mail: footprints@blackandwhiteoman.com
On the cover
A joint venture with Zahara Travel and Service Bureau
Design: Beneek Siraj, Photo: Jaap Croese 4
May-July 2010
O ma n-Tr a il
10
Magic of the Maasai The Maasai Mara is the most famous of the Kenyan Game Parks, covering an area of some 1,500 sq kms
18
Love for Turkey M. Hayri Erol, Turkish ambassador to Oman speaks to Footprints.
26
Looking for adventure? Head straight to Mt Kinabalu in Malaysian Borneo
10
66
Glo b e -T ra i l
Fa shio n
32
Driving green – Ireland Ireland is ideal for those who like hopping in a car and straying off the beaten path
40
Salalah calling Salalah is unique from the rest of Arabia since it enjoys the monsoons. It remains cool, wet, green, and misty between June and September
52
The desert challenge A live account by a group of intrepid desert lovers who crossed the tricky Sharqiyah sands in 4WDs
62
Smitten by Oman A German couple visited Oman 14 times in 16 years.
May-July 2010
5
Ahlan Wa Sahlan
Another first... Dr Rajiha Abdulamir Ali Minister of Tourism
Oman is poised to enter a brand new tourism era. There are several infrastructural projects in various stages of developments and our well strategised marketing plans are bringing the desired tourist inflows and will continue to do so. With the new airport projects, Oman Air’s expanding wings, easing of visa policies, development and promotion of domestic tourism, we can expect more growth. We are steadily marching on in this direction and (as per the strategies of ‘Vision 2020’) Oman hopes to attract around three million tourists annually by 2020. Once the new Muscat International Airport is operational, it will be able to handle more than 12 million annual visitors. Domestic airports are also to be built in Adam, Ras Al Hadd, Sohar and Duqm, which will help us promote these regions. Our eased visa policies will now enable nationals of up to 70 countries to receive entry visas on arrival at the airport. Nationals of other countries can also obtain entry visa within a short period of time. The time is ripe for Oman to throw open its arms to the whole wide world. The groundwork is being done and everything is moving ahead in that direction of opening the country to its amazing tourism potential. However, there has been a vacuum for an exclusive tourism publication. Zahara Travel Group, with its years of tourism involvement and experience, have always felt the need for one. In association with Black & White magazine they are introducing an independent publication – a travel and tourism magazine on international standards having its roots in Oman looking both inwards and outwards. Let us welcome ‘Footprints’ – the first travel magazine of its kind in Oman -- which is all set to promote our country as an exclusive and niche destination. Footprints, which advocates the policy of ‘taking only memories and leaving only footprints’, is a brand new travel venture. Turn these pages and be part of a new experience!
6
May-July 2010
From 8-16 December 2010 the beaches of Oman will come alive as 2,000 athletes from 45 Asian countries and regions compete in 14 beach sports. The 2nd Asian Beach Games Muscat 2010 will be the biggest ever international sporting event hosted by the Sultanate. Held on beaches around Muscat and at the one-million sq m purpose built Al-Musannah Sports City, the Games will be a festival of sport and culture. Check out our website
www.muscat2010.org.om and join us on Facebook.
Friend, philosopher & guide
Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali Editor-in-chief
The secret is out Oman had very little or no tourists many years back. As a little boy, I remember seeing only relatives of expatriates who were employed here, or some business travellers. There were no leisure travellers. But, today Oman is no longer a best-kept secret or a hidden corner as it was known earlier. Our nation has become more accessible and we are welcoming tourists with open arms. And unlike any other country, we can boast of Oman being naturally rich in landscape and traditions, whilst being one of the safest and most peaceful countries in the world. Oman is my secret corner. I have seen the world, but, I think I am still discovering Oman, day by day. And there is so much to see and learn and understand. Oman, despite opening up, still remains a mystery for many. The mountains, beaches, deserts and during the June-July-August stretch we have the cloudy misty magical Salalah Khareef season. Just imagine, while we are sweating here in sweltering Muscat, some 1000kms away, there is a region (Dhofar) where everything is cool and green, and having only 20plus degrees. It is sometimes too good to be true. And I keep wondering should we not start off an international marathon event in July in Salalah and make the most of the cool climate that nature has showered on us? Now, why do you travel? For business, leisure or love for nature? Whatever the reason you choose, travel broadens/opens your mind through live experiences, taught by varied culture, heritage and history of the country you visit, the people you meet. You shed your old and heavy baggage and return with a fresh mind and new baggage filled with renewed creativity. And the world becomes a university that teaches you lessons untaught in any classroom. Travelling is the best way to bond with your family, so go together and enjoy some grand moments with them. But, when you travel, do so with an open mind. There is so much out there to see and experience. Experiencing different cultures brings understanding, tolerance, peace and hopefully the knowledge. So go ahead, travel around while you can‌ be it inbound or outbound. Bon voyage!
8
May-July 2010
The PURSUIT continues. PURSUIT to tap opportunities, to set benchmarks in retailing, to offer world class shopping experience.
www.luluhypermarket.com
12,000,000 sq. ft. of retail space 412,000 shoppers per day 77 stores 16 countries The PURSUIT continues.
HYPERMARKETS | SUPERMARKETS | DEPARTMENT STORES
UAE
I
OMAN
I
QATAR
I
KUWAIT
I
YEMEN
I
BAHRAIN
I
SAUDI ARABIA
Globe-Trail
Magic of the Maasai A Maasai without culture is like a zebra without stripes – anonymous.
Ethnic groups are characterised and identified by dress and ornamentation – everywhere! The Maasai are, perhaps, one of the most widely recognised people in terms of fashion and decoration, sporting bright colours, intricate patterns, and jewellery that dangles, jingles, and catches the eye. The Maasai conjure up popular images of young brides weighted with beaded ornamentation. Intricate beadwork has been an art form of Maasai women for centuries. To this day beadwork is an important means through which women demonstrate their social understanding and creative capability.
10
May-July 2010
May-July May-July 2010 2010
11
Globe-Trail The Maasai stick together. No one can break the team; they go through life’s challenges together. They go through certain rituals to prove they can withstand pain. They have been prepared from childhood to deal with their own fears. Maasai men are schooled in how to deal with fear at every stage of their lives.
12
May-July 2010
You either love or hate Kenya. There is no in between.
Th
The good-natured practical wisdom of
ere is this story about a
Africans (Kenyans) or the fact that Africa
young man who went to Kenya for the
is a destination from where you can
first time with some friends of his.
turn towards many new destinations
experience the country’s world famous
(philosphcally)? Africa is not just a
wildlife. The most common way is to
destination, it is way beyond that. The
He was always intrigued by this dark and
go on a safari. Whether in a four-wheel
country shows that you can live life in a
wild continent. So, like most first timers to
drive, on a walking safari, tracking game
totally different way. Let us not be blind to
Kenya, which is situated on the equator
on horseback, searching for rare birds in
the downsides of the continent. Let us not
on Africa’s east coast, and described as
a thick rainforest or watching from the
gloss over the problems, the dangers, but
‘the cradle of humanity’, this young man
comfortable veranda of a safari lodge.
despite all that, there is no country that
was quite awed by the sights and sounds
Aeroplane or hot air balloon trips are
can evoke so much passion and love and
and the people of Africa (Kenya).
available at the Maasai Mara National
turn us on a new path in a mere visit.
Reserve.
African fever
The night of his visit, he sat around little
Maasai Mara Most
visitors
to
Kenya
want
to
The Maasai Mara is the most famous of
open fires and listening to the nocturnal
Every tourist’s dream
calls of the wild under a magical starlit
With its scenic beauty and abundant
sky, texted his girlfriend: “I love…Africa!”
area of some 1,500 square kilometres.
wildlife, Kenya is one of Africa’s major
One would have expected him to profess
Situated in the south-west of the country,
safari destinations. Kenya has some of
his love to his girlfriend, or at least say
it joins with the Serengeti to its south,
Africa’s finest beaches, most abundant
that he was missing her…no! He had
across the border in Tanzania, to form
wildlife
tourism
more important things to tell her: he had
a huge reserve for the animals within.
infrastructure. It has over 50 national
fallen in love with Africa! He was caught
It gets its name from the tribe who
parks and reserves cover all habitats from
by the Africa fever.
own the land (the Maasai) and the river
desert to mountain forest, and there are six
that runs through the park (the Mara).
marine parks in the Indian Ocean. Kenya
Herds of elephant wander through its
also has a diverse population with around
grasslands, feeding off the shrubs and
40 different tribes, all with their own (often
Most lovers of Africa are unable to
trees that litter the park. Amongst them,
related) languages and cultures, including
explain it. What was it that touched
zebra, eland, Thomson’s gazelles and
the Maasai, who still lead a traditional
them and endeared to this dark, wild
many, many more types of grazing animal
semi-nomadic lifestyle of cattle-herding
and magical land? The rawness of life?
spend their days and nights grazing
along the southern border.
the rich grasslands. To the west of the
Fall in love with a dark, wild beauty
and
a
sophisticated
the Kenyan Game Parks, covering an
park is the Esoit Oloololo Escarpment, a particularly good area in which to see the wildlife. But overall, the wildebeest rules, with huge numbers around the park. There are several lodges and camps to choose from in the Masai Mara, ranging from large properties with over 100 rooms, to small, remote camps with no more than four to five tents. The majority of the lodges are situated in the southeast of the reserve, either inside or on its border. There are also camps and lodges on the western side of the Mara River, that bisects the park, which is more difficult to reach (fly-in safaris sometimes the only option) but which offer exceptional game-viewing. May-July 2010
13
Globe-Trail
14
May-July 2010
Greatest wildlife show on earth It was a stampede. Hundreds of wildebeest, some males weighing around 250kilograms, were pounding earth at around 80 kilometres per hour. In a thunderous display, these migrating wildebeest raised plumes of dust as they fled from their natural predator, a lion. But, after a quarter of an hour, the stampede died in the same manner it began. One, the lion found an easy-to-catch young victim and the wildebeest got tired of running, slowed to a trot and then stopped.
May-July 2010
15
Globe-Trail
We
lcome to the greatest
wildlife show on earth (which takes place within Kenya and Tanzania)! The wildebeest migration is not just for show, it is a dramatic story, which can be witnessed live!
wildebeest migration closely, waiting for an opportunity to strike weak prey as they
Wildebeest stampedes are famous in
make their way into different territories.
Africa, and the animals can travel up to
The migration is a natural phenomenon
50 miles per hour (80 kilometers per hour)
determined by the availability of grazing.
for at least 30 minutes when they are
These animals make a migratory circle of
fleeing predators. Animals caught in their
500 to 1,000 miles each year, beginning right after the calving season in January and
February
on
the
southeastern
Serengeti plains, moving west toward Lake Victoria, then turning north into the Maasai Mara. They are relentless in their advance and many are injured, lost (especially calves) or killed. By the end of the dry season, the wildebeest have almost exhausted the grazing lands and return south to the Serengeti plains as the rains begin. And, this is the time when there is plenty of rain-ripened grass available for nearly 500,000 zebra that precede 1.8million wildebeest and the following 100,000 plains game. By the end of the dry season, the wildebeest have almost exhausted the grazing lands and return south to the Serengeti plains as the rains begin. Even
experts
can’t
rightly
predict
the precise timing of the wildebeest way will be run down. (But, you need not
migration. It changes annually and it is
worry about getting stuck in their path.
a very unpredictable and spontaneous
Going on safari to view and witness the
natural event. The calving season takes
wildebeest migration is one of the ultimate
place in the Serengeti between January
safari experiences that Africa has to offer.)
and mid-March before the wildebeest
REACHING THERE:
migration begins heading towards the
16
GETTING TO KENYA Kenya Airways – non stop to Nairobi GSA – National Travel & Tourism: +968 24660317/318 Fax: +968 24566125 Email: mct.sales@kenya-airways.com Emirates – via Dubai - +968 24404400 Qatar Airways – via Doha to KL - +968 24771900
May-July 2010
Between the open plains of the Serengeti
western Serengeti in June. The best
and the Maasai (*) Mara, thousands of
time (*1) to see the migration is usually
wildebeest and zebras migrate to greener
between June and August when the
pastures as the seasons change and the
wildebeest congregate and prepare to
circle of life and death continues. Life…
cross the famous Grumeti River.
because nothing can compare to the sight of thousands of wildebeest moving.
There are some excellent camps in this
Tragic…because predators follow the
area where you can stay to witness this natural phenomenon. If you are in the Maasai Mara you can expect the
wildebeest to make their arrival as early
often remain in the same groups as their
as July, but they generally arrive between
mothers.
August and September and remain in the Mara between October and November.
Most of the wildebeest calves are born
Between December and January the
in just a three-week period, usually the
wildebeest gradually begin their migration
beginning of February. Calves attract
back towards the Serengeti.
predators and this is an amazing time of the year to watch impressive lion hunts
Wildebeest females give birth to a
(kills). It’s also quite stunning to see almost
single calf in the middle of the herd, not
half a million little wildebeest being born
seeking a secluded place, as do many
and running together with their mothers.
antelopes. Amazingly, about 80 percent of the females calve within the same two
(*) The name originates from two
to three week period, creating a glut for
Dutch
predators and thus enabling more calves
‘wild beast’. A wildebeest can also be
to survive the crucial first few weeks. A
known by the alternate name of gnu, a
calf can stand and run within minutes of
word which comes from the Khoikhoi
birth. It immediately begins to follow its
language of Africa. ‘Gnu’ is probably an
mother and stays close to her to avoid
onomatopoeia, because male wildebeest
getting lost or preyed upon. Within days,
make a grunting noise, which sounds
it can run fast enough to keep up with the
suspiciously similar.
Afrikaans
words,
meaning
adult herd. (*1) Please note this is a general A calf eats its first grass at about 10 days,
description of the migration cycle. Due
although it is still suckled for at least
to the spontaneous and unpredictable
six months. mo onths. Even after weaning, many
timing of the migration, it is wise to
re em ma ain n with wit ith h the t e mother th mo m oth t er er until unt ntil the the h next ne ex xt remain
cons co nsul ultt wi ul w th your th you ur travel trrav avel el agent age ge gent ent or or advisor ad dvi v so sorr consult with
year ye ar’s ar ’s c allf iss born. a bor o n. n At At that thatt time tim tim ime e the th he young y un yo ung g year’s calf
to og e u et p tto od dat a e re at epo port rts ts wh when he en np lla annin ng get up date reports planning
m le ma es ar re driven driv dr driv iven a iven way, b wa way, ut the ut the he ffe emale maless males are away, but females
yyo our ur ssafari. afa af far arii.. your
May-July 2010
17
Globe-Trail
In Turkey
you are not a stranger
18
May-July 2010
Knock knock… “Who’s there?!”
Merhaba!
It’s God’s guest!
So, Merhaba(hello)! Welcome to Turkey,
“Oh, c’mon in, you’re most welcome!”
a country that plays host to two of the seven wonders – Temple of Artemis
In
at Ephesus and the Mausoleum at Halicarnasus (Bodrum) – of the world! And, the first question most of the Turks Turkey, you are not
might ask you is: Nasilsiniz? Meaning,
considered a stranger if you happen to
how are you? And before you respond to
knock at someone’s door.
that, we will come to the most important
Tradition in Turkey says that a stranger
question: How about some tea?
at one’s doorstep is considered “God’s
It is often said that what beer is to a
guest” for at least three days.
Bavarian, tea is to a Turk. Tea is served
So, if you are in Turkey – which is home
anytime, anywhere in tiny gold rimmed,
to the oldest known human settlement in
tulip shaped glasses along with couple of
Catalhoyuk (7th Millenium BC) -- and do
lumps of sugar (beetroot). So, if you were
not have a hotel booking or don’t have a
wondering what could be more Turkish
place to stay, you might as well knock on
than coffee, the answer is simple: tea!
some door and enjoy a three night’s stay
An average Turk consumes around two-
as God’s own guest!
litres of tea per day, and this along with
But, let us not risk it. Don’t strike of
cigarettes is the energy-kick that drives
‘hotel stay’ from your travel budget list to
them throughout the day and night.
Turkey, who gave the Dutch their famous
This is why the Turks are great fans of
Tulips, just because we told you this.
nightlife, which is quite active in Turkey.
Imagine a horde of visitors from all over the world dropping in to Turkey because
Veni, Vidi, Vici (I came, I saw, I
someone somewhere said that strangers
conquered)
are welcome for three days to any home
We may have heard of this phrase so
in this bridge between the Middle East
many times, ad nauseum! But, it is most
and Western Europe.
relevant in this context because, this
Although a Muslim country, it is a secular
celebrated proclamation was issued by
one where all visitors are welcome
Juilius Caeser in Turkey (after defeating
and many viewpoints are tolerated. St
the Pontus, a formidable sea region of
Nicholas (Santa Claus) was born and
Turkey).
lived as bishop of Myra (Kale) in Turkey.
Until the end of the 19th century, Turkey was the heart of the Ottoman Empire. During WWI it was aligned with Germany
Tea is served anytime, anywhere in tiny gold rimmed, tulip shaped glasses along with couple of lumps of sugar (beetroot). So, if you were wondering what could be more Turkish than coffee, the answer is simple: tea!
and following the defeat of the Axis Powers, the Allies tried to carve it up while Greece invaded to claim the western part of the country. Kemal Mustafa, later to be known as Ataturk, who had led the defeat of Britain, Australia, and New Zealand at Gallipoli rallied the country, overthrew the Sultans, and defeated the invaders. Ataturk then went on to introduce the western alphabet and numbers, a secular government, outlaw the veil in public buildings and set the country on a path of modernisation. walk to page 23... May-July 2010
19
Globe-Trail
20
May-July 2010
The chirpy Grand Bazaar, Istanbul Just next to the deluxe shopping malls where you can find world-wide famous brands all together, there is an alternative shopping center, unique to Istanbul and which actually describes it: The Grand Bazaar. This bazaar is a place which keeps lots of vanishing professions alive with their unique culture. It is the world’s oldest, biggest bazaar where most variable products are exhibited. The bazaar includes more than 3000 shops and it is visited by approximately 400,000 people.
May-July May-July 2010 2010
21
Globe-Trail
The most common preparations are roasting and grilling, which produce the famous Turkish kebabs, including döner kebap, the national dish, and köfte, the workingman’s favourite
22
May-July 2010
taste, which is still served throughout in Turkey) on Noah’s Ark (which landed on Mount Ararat – Agri Dagi – in Eastern Turkey). Bread is baked fresh early morning for breakfast and lunch, and late afternoon for dinner. Turkey also produces excellent, delicately scented honey of many varieties and it is also the largest producer of hazelnuts in the world. As for drinks, pure spring
TURKEY – BIO
Famous Turkish cuisine
water is always available, but the general
Time to stuff ourselves: Turkish cuisine
advice is to drink only bottled water.
is indeed famous and scrumptious. In
Turkey is also famous for its succulent
fact, this country is noted for having one
fruit, and thus for its fruit juices. There’s
of the three most famous and distinctive
also ayran (yogurt mixed with spring
traditional cuisines in the world. It is even
water—tastes like buttermilk), which
vegan friendly, meaning the cuisine is rich
goes well with kebap (roast lamb). You
and savoury, and not exactly spicy-hot,
also get freshly squeezed orange juice
with abundant use of vegetables. But,
and apricot juice.
it is not veggies all the way. There are
Turkish tea is the national stimulant, even
meat portions, except that they are likely
at breakfast, and famous Turkish coffee
to be comparatively smaller portions. It
only a distant second.
Full name: Republic of Turkey
is a veggies delight because vegetables
Population: 74.8 million (UN,
predominate in most meals.
Nightlife
2009)
Turkish cuisine is mostly based on lamb
And Turkey is modern, right? The joke is
Capital: Ankara
and mutton, but also includes beef and
that the combined consumption of tea
Largest city: Istanbul
chicken, as well as an assortment of
and cigarettes has the residents staying
Area: 779,452 sq km (300,948 sq
seafood. The most common preparations
up pretty late into the night... So what
miles)
are roasting and grilling, which produce
do they do when they are not sleeping?
Major language: Turkish
the famous Turkish kebabs, including
Have fun, of course!
Major religion: Islam
döner kebap, the national dish, and köfte,
This takes us to the lively Turkish
Life expectancy: 69 years (men),
the workingman’s favourite. But there’s
nightclubs, which are considered to
74 years (women) (UN)
much more to Turkish cuisine than grills,
be “jolly” affairs, especially when the
Monetary unit: Turkish lira
says visitors, which played host to the
audience is also asked to sing along.
Main exports: Clothing and
last meal (a pudding of sweet and sour
If you are the type that would like to sing and dance till the wee hours of the
iron and steel, motor
morning, then, enjoy. But, after eating,
vehicles and machinery, fuels
drinking and making merry, make your
and oils GNI per capita: US $9,340 (World Bank, 2008) Internet domain: .tr International dialling code: +90
REACHING THERE:
textiles, fruit and vegetables,
GETTING TO TURKEY Turkish Airlines: +968 24765071/72 GSA – Majan International Agencies Travel & Tourism LLC – +968 24700100/24781281
way to a hamam, the Turkish bath, for a proper soak and massage before heading home. Tomorrow is another day. But, remember to start the next day too with a refreshing round of…tea! May-July 2010
23
Globe-Trail
Sunset at the Bosphorus Istanbul is the only city in the world built on two continents. Straddling the Bosporus, it guards the eastern end of the waterway between the Black and Mediterranean Seas. Much of it is just a big, sprawling city, but the heart of the city has cozy cafes, the wonderful Grand Bazaar, the Top Kapi and Aya Sofia palaces, and of course the Blue Mosque, the prime mosque in Turkey.
24
May-July 2010
Bring back only love “Go to Turkey and bring back only love!” says M. Hayri Erol, Turkish ambassador to Oman in a brief tete-a-tete with Footprints. Just visit Turkey and you will be hooked for life, the ambassador enthused, adding that the country had it all. Turkey is a Mecca of tradition and culture, which makes it a perfect vacation spot for any lover of history and culture. “You visit once and I guarantee that you will totally fall in love with Turkey and you will want to visit it again and again!”
early 70s, when I had a small stint as a tour guide, we were wishing the country clocked 500,000 visitors.” Today, the situation is a far cry from that earlier scene, where there are around 30 million visitors (in a year). “Turkey had around 26 million tourists in 2009, drawing an income of $21billion. Turkey is all set to woo in more tourists and promote tourism at the highest level today. We have around 2500 hotels (tourism ministry registered ones) and around 560,000 beds to be sold,” Erol said, adding that Turkey is the only
Er
ol’s favourite spot in Turkey
While he loves Bodrum, he also has plenty
3.5percent in tourism income last year,
remains Bodrum, a lively, popular holiday
of good words for Ankara, the capital of
while the global depression caused a
resort on the Aegean Sea, renowned
Turkey and the country’s second largest
dent worldwide.
in antiquity under its ancient name,
city after Istanbul. “I can’t ignore Ankara
From Oman, there were about 5904
Halicarnassus. “Bodrum is a place where
because I was born there. It is more of a
visitors to Turkey in 2008 and slightly
you can relax, rest and stay. Of course,
formal city because of the parliament and
above 6000 in 2009. “With the flight
there are richer places in Turkey, but I am
heads of state residing there. You will
services adding on one more flight every
particularly fond of Bodrum,” Erol said.
find many interesting museums and sites
week, we hope to see more visitors this
Bodrum has all the aspects that appeal
in Ankara. There is also a skiing centre
year,” the ambassador said, adding that
to a broad range of interests: the sun-
and it has a fine nightlife!” Erol said.
they were most willing to share their
worshipper, the devotee of the deep,
While tourists flock by the millions to
experiences with Oman. “The Sultanate
the avid sailor, the disco fan and the
Turkey today, there was a time when
is a beautiful and rich country for tourists
shopping junkie, all can engage in their
it was hard to draw more than several
and it will be a much sought after
favoured activities here.
hundred thousands of visitors. “In the
destination too!”
country which has realised a growth of
May-July 2010
25
Globe-Trail
Upyo
u go
26
May-July 2010
!
Around 1000 people make it to the top every year. It can be a three days two nights affair, although some can do it in two days one night too. Well, how adventurous are you? Mount Everest, Mount Kilimanjaro or are you looking for a new climbing destination? If you are, head right to Mount Kinabalu in Malaysian Borneo, at the satisfying altitude of 4096 metres, and a well-maintained path running all the way to the summit!
May-July May-July 2010 2010
27
Globe-Trail
28
May-July 2010
Th
e comforting factor is Mt
Kinabalu is one of very few peaks at this altitude, which can be reached without any specialised climbing gear or actual
Interesting Facts about Mount Kinabalu
climbing as such. There are no extremely hazardous areas on the marked route
Mount Kinabalu is considered to be the
and thus, the only challenge you face is
highest mountain in South East Asia
the limit of your endurance with failure
There are two theories about the origin
the only real fear.
of the name Kinabalu. The first is that Kinabalu stands for ‘Chinese widow’
Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain
Mt Kinabalu summit is usually reached in
on the island of Borneo. The summit
with Kina being a corruption of China
time to view the sunrise, before returning
Low’s Peak has a height of 4.095 metres
and Balu being a commonly-used term
to Laban Rata for breakfast.
for widow in the local languages.
(13.435 feet) and is the third tallest in South
The first person to climb the mountain
East Asia. Low’s Peak can be relatively
Mount Kinabalu area is well-known
easily climbed by a person with basic
was Sir Hugh Low, a British colonial
worldwide for its tremendous botanical
fitness and requires no mountaineering
officer, in 1851. The indigenous peoples
and
biodiversity;
equipment, but other peaks along the
of Sabah didn’t climb the mountain to
species which are found only within
massif require rock climbing skills. It is
the top because they believed that it was
Kinabalu Park and are do not grow
really worth a visit, when you stand there
sacred and home to mountain spirits.
anywhere else in the world. The area has
at the highest summit, you can see the
Every year Mount Kinabalu is the scene
one of the world’s richest orchid floras
splendour of Sabah in all directions.
of a ‘climbathon’ where very fit men and
with over 800 species, over 600 species
women run up and down the mountain.
of ferns (more than the whole of Africa’s Most people prefer to make this a three
The record for the men is held by Ricardo
500 species) of which 50 are found
days two nights affair, although some
Mejia from Mexico in a time of two hours
nowhere else.
and 37 minutes. The fastest woman so
biological
species
can do it in two days a night. The eight-
far is Anna Pichrtova from the Czech
kilometre climb generally starts from the
So, pack up your baggage, pick up
Timpohon Gate near park headquarters
the mountain trail and up you go!
(1800m), with an overnight stay at one of
Don’t forget your cameras… maybe
the guest houses at Laban Rata (3273m),
you
before pushing on to the summit early
pitcher plant you will see enroute!
could
capture
that
Republic.
gigantic
next morning.
THINGS TO TAKE: Rain coat Your favourite energy food Suitable walking shoes Warm clothing (something you can layer as you go up and cold and down and hot) Camera plus plenty of battery power and memory Torch light, preferably a head light when you’re scampering up the mountain in the dark Spare batteries, you’ll need your torch for about three or so hours on the walk alone Medications if any
May-July 2010
29
Globe-Trail
Ko
ta Kinabalu: a medley of
Here are some places you can visit in Kota Kinabalu:
natural and cultural attractions (It is located at latitude 5.98333° and
Take a walking trail through the botanical
longitude 116.06667°)
park of Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, which Kota Kinabalu, formerly Jesselton, and
is the largest natural reserve in Kota
affectionately called KK, is the capital of
Kinabalu, located on the Penampang–
Sabah, east Malaysia, on the island of
Papar Road. The park consists of a
Borneo; it is also the capital of the West
zoological and botanical garden, and
Coast Division of Sabah. It is located
features several wildlife creatures like
at
Pygmy elephants, Orangutans, Malayan
latitude
5.98333°
and
longitude
116.06667°. Facing the South China Sea
tigers and Proboscis monkeys.
and Tunku Abdul Rahman Park on one side, and with the mighty Mount Kinabalu
The KK is Malaysia’s only town with a
in the background, Kota Kinabalu sprawls
nature reserve within its boundaries, the
for kilometers along the coast and inland.
Likas Bird Sanctuary. Though birds are
Located on the west coast of “the Land
not overly active during the day, this is
below the Wind”, under the watchful eye
a quiet retreat and a stroll over board-
of majestic Mount Kinabalu, and on the
walks and along paths is very pleasant.
fringes of the South China Sea, Kota Kinabalu is the bustling and colourful
You can also opt for a relaxing traditional
gateway to Sabah.
Ka’andaman or aroma massage, or indulge in a foot reflexology session at
If you want to switch between a peaceful,
the Ka’andaman Healing Garden located
laid back nature getaway and a bustling
in the Kadazandusun Cultural Village.
commercial city, then Kota Kinabalu is the place to be! It is a relatively quiet
Located approximately 35 kilometers
and less-crowded Malaysian city that
from the town center is the Kipandi
features some nice shopping attractions
Butterfly Park. The scenic attraction is
and is surrounded by several lush natural
encircled by the Crocker Range hills and
reserves.
features hundreds of species of rare and
Powered by Google
colourful butterflies.
30
May-July 2010
Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine National Park is located just 3 to 8kms off Kota Kinabalu shore and consists of five islands, namely Gaya, Mamutik, Manukan, Sapi and Sulug. It is a favourite place to go to for picnickers, divers and nature lovers. The park offers ample space to try water sports and you can also enjoy and adventurous jungle trek to see the flora and fauna at namely, Gaya, Manukan and Sapi islands. For more information about these places of interest, please contact Sabah Tourism at tel: 088 212121 or 232121
and dining hub of Kota Kinabalu - The Waterfront, located at Jalan Tun Fuad. Signal Hill is one of the best places to get a good view of KK. The hill is in a natural
Sabah State Museum is the largest
area where one can peacefully enjoy the
museum
beautiful skyline of the city with a view
thousands of artifacts, cultural objects,
that extends to the islands.
memoirs and quirky relics.
The city has lots of monuments. You can
There are five major shopping complexes
visit the Atkinson Clock at Jalan Tunku,
in KK: Centrepoint, Wisma Merdeka,
a monument built in 1902 to honor
Wawasan Plaza, Karamunsing Complex
Francis George Atkinson, the first district
and KK Plaza. The handicrafts market
officer of Kota Kinabalu, the Sabah State
is the bargain shopping haunt of Kota
Mosque, a sacred edifice that celebrates
Kinabalu visitors. You can pick up
Islamic architectural craftsmanship with
inexpensive souvenirs and several other
its striking minarets.
interesting objects.
in
Kota
Kinabalu
housing
REACHING THERE:
At night, you can visit the entertainment
Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA) (ICAO Code : WBKK) provides flights linking the city with other domestic and international destinations. It is a secondary hub for Malaysia Airlines and Air Asia and it consists of two terminals. It is the second busiest airport in Malaysia after Kuala Lumpur International Airport and it on of the main gateways into Sabah and East Malaysia. From Oman: Malaysia Airlines – Flies via Dubai to Kuala Lumpur (KL). GSA – National Travel & Tourism: +968 24660310; Fax: +968 24566125, Email: mhmuscat@ gmail.com, Oman Air – direct non-stop flights to KL, (Office in Muscat – +968 24707222), Qatar Airways – via Doha to KL - +968 24771900, Emirates – via Dubai - +968 24404400, Etihad Airways – via Abu Dhabi – +968 24823500
Pusat Kraftangan or better known as the Filipino Market is found along the seafront of KK - a curious building with a series of steep gabled roofs and door underneath each. Here you find trinkets and souvenirs, mostly produced in neighbouring countires, at bargain prices. For those who are into pearls and know how to categorise them, this is the place to go!
May-July 2010
31
Globe-Trail
Driving Green By John Lee
32
May-July 2010
At less than 500km from top to toe, Ireland is ideal for those who like hopping in a car and straying off the beaten path. In fact, straying is something many drivers end up doing here: leaving the network of motorways and main thoroughfares, you’ll find a tangle of backcountry roads where even the street signs (or lack thereof) can be confusing.
May-July 2010
33
Globe-Trail
34
May-July 2010
and continued southwestwards to Cork, a two-hour, 125km jaunt mostly along the N25 main road. No need to stop for a snack, I was soon pulling into the onetime European Capital of Culture for an afternoon stroll on both sides of the River
No
Lee (no relation, apparently). Wandering the labyrinthine lanes of
t to worry: the rewards
Cork’s Shandon area, I stopped in
of driving here make occasional wrong
at tiny Linehan’s Sweets for some
turns a highly worthwhile price. Arm
handmade sour apple candies and
yourself with plenty of time, a good
a chat with the twinkle-eyed owner.
road map and a sense of adventure and
Talking is like breathing in Ireland and it
you’re in for a trip you’ll be talking about
doesn’t take much to trigger an epically
for years. Just don’t forget to pull over:
long conversation: if you’re asking for
stopping at sheep-strewn farms, cheery
directions, expect a circuitous ramble
stone villages and historic old towns is
with plenty of colourful anecdotes.
half the fun of any pan-Ireland odyssey. Eventually
weaving
downhill
and
Starting my three-night trawl southwards
across the river, I hit the city center’s
from Dublin, I trundled into the wild,
bright-painted pubs and busker-lined
mist-covered Wicklow Mountains and
thoroughfares, all teeming with busy
their camera-hogging countryside vistas,
locals. Then, with my appetite suddenly
before rolling through the expansive
flickering to life, I hungrily circled the
greenery of sun-dappled Carlow and
covered English Market and was soon
Kilkenny counties. After a relaxing three-
feasting on flaky sausage rolls and sticky
hour, 160km drive, I pulled into a hotel in
fruit buns.
the southeast port of Waterford. After
catching
an
excellent
early
Ireland’s oldest town was founded by
evening show at the town’s Everyman
8th-century Vikings and is a handy en
Palace Theatre and enjoying a deep,
route pit spot. Stretching my legs on the
Guinness-aided sleepover at my hotel, I
cobbled, shop-lined streets alongside the
was back on the road the next day for
River Suir, I perused the hulking medieval
a quick hop north to one of Ireland’s
Reginald’s Tower, then dropped into
biggest attractions. Blarney Castle is a
Waterford Treasures. An intriguing, high-
handsome medieval pile set in verdant,
tech museum, it brings to life the area’s
broccoli-green countryside. But the tour
rich past – including a gaggle of chatty
parties roll in for just one thing: to climb
holographic Viking heads.
the battlements, kiss the Blarney Stone and get the “gift of the gab.”
Up early the next morning for a giant Irish breakfast (with artery-clogging blood
Laying on my back and craning to peck
pudding), I squeezed gingerly into the car
the greasy-looking rock, I was soon back on the north-bound route. A threehour weave, mostly on the N20, N18 and N6 main roads, stretched through countryside
crisscrossed
with
stone
walls and striped with gorse and heather. After lunch in Limerick (another good stopover if you want to extend your stay), I continued to one of the country’s favourite destinations. May-July 2010
35
Globe-Trail
Cork City at night. Photographer:Andrew Bradley Courtesy of Tourism Ireland
Talking is like breathing in Ireland and it doesn’t take much to trigger an epically long conversation: if you’re asking for directions, expect a circuitous ramble with plenty of colourful anecdotes
36
May-July 2010
Arguably
Ireland’s
pub
capital
and dripping with ancient fishing village charm, Galway faces down the windwhipping Atlantic with a lively and welcoming spirit. And since driving was over for the day on my visit, it was time to taste test that famous pub provenance on the gently curving High Street, lined
Sleeping:
with bars like a row of draft beer taps.
•Belfry
The clamorous, maze-like Front Door,
belfryhotel.ie;
a multi-level tavern of dark nooks and
doubles from US$140).
glowing hearths, provided a fortifying
•Victoria House Hotel, Cork (www.
pint of Murphy’s that slid down like a
thevictoriahotel.com;
velvet thick-shake. Merrily weaving up to
8788; doubles from $140).
the more intimate Tig Cóilí bar, I found a
•Spanish Arch Hotel, Galway (www.
clutch of smiling musicians stamping out
spanisharchhotel.ie;
a jig on accordions and penny whistles.
doubles from $125).
Locating a wobbly corner table among
Eating and drinking:
the throng, I sipped a smooth Bushmills
•Bodega Restaurant, Waterford (www.
whiskey and unfurled my dog-eared
bodegawaterford.com; mains from $12)
map. I could easily be in Dublin by
•English
noon tomorrow, but the wildly beautiful
corkenglishmarket.ie; sandwiches and
countryside of Sligo and Mayo was also
baked goods from $2.50)
just a short hop away…
•Front Door, Galway (www.frontdoorpub.
Hotel,
Waterford
(www.
011-353-51-844-800;
011-353-21-427-
011-91-569-600;
Market,
Cork
(www.
com; mains from $9) THE FACTS
Best attractions:
For a detailed route planner, click on
•Watford Treasures, Waterford (www.
www.aaroadwatch.ie. For general visitor
waterfordtreasures.com)
information, check www.discoverireland.
•Blarney
com.
blarneycastle.ie)
Castle,
near
Cork
(www.
John Lee’s work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times, London’s Observer, The Daily Telegraph and Guardian Weekly, among other publications.
May-July 2010
37
WHAT WAS THAT… By Bikram Vohra
When in Rome… Yes, the old adage has been so oft
Half these scenarios will happen to you
One of the kids will fall ill the morning
repeated that you may even choke
when you go on vacation.
you have to go on the safari/jamboree/ adventure/tour and the fever will rise to
on it. But, truth is that you need to get into the local swing to get the
The airline computer will be ‘down’
102 degrees and doctors will be called
local feel when you are out at a
when you call for confirming the
and by the time the tour returns the
new town.
reservation 72 hours before take off like
kid will be back to normal and full of
It would do you well if you go the
the air hostess told you and then when
beans(which you will not) and there will
local way, but most of the time
you reach the airport you’ll find the
be no refund on the price of the special
you may not be able to hit it off
same computer that keeps going down
tour.
with the locals (or the lissome
suddenly went up and knocked your
local lass), or you simply may not
name off the flipping list so now you are
The one day you have to visit a famous
be able to break the language
stuck at the airport with two kids and a
museum, site, shop, place of tourist
barrier. But, some cities offer tours
wife who knows whose fault it is.
interest it will be closed. Murphy’s law having a blast.
conducted by local volunteers who can give you an entirely different
One aunt at the flipping family gathering
side of the city and life there.
will take objection to the gift you bought
The credit card machine will reject your
her because she will recognise it for the
card(or if it is in particularly malevolent
Produce and eat…
giveaway it is and be so offended that
mood swallow it)
Well, not exactly, but sometimes,
you will have to snivel and grovel and
where you don’t know the language,
self catering can help you save
try and make up for it and she will play
anyone and are short of cash and will
some money and it will also
hard to get.
have to put things you bought back on
give you the chance to do some
in a foreign country
the shelf.
off-the-beat sightseeing. Is it
38 38
imperative that you have to eat
If you are shopping for the wife and
at a fancy restaurant even when
children (you silly brave nit) you will
you are on a tour? Why not taste
spend money on wrong sizes, wrong
the local samples or put together
colours, wrong designs and the wrong
a picnic breakfast or lunch at a
brand name and you will be told what
fraction of the cost of eating at a
addlepated twerp you are and how could
restaurant?
you?
Say ‘yes’ to local offers…
The ocean view room will allow you a slice of water if you lean 98 degrees out of the
Get into the local groove and open
balcony and stretch while someone holds
the window on how the locals live.
onto your ankles. You will buy something
You might even stay as a paying
that looks like a bargain that will later
guest at one of the locals not-so-
prove beyond any doubt that you are Mr
humble abode…What say you?
Gullible 2010 because it won’t work.
MayMay-July 2010 2010
A VACATION?
You will receive a disturbing phone call from your secretary or colleague to tell you that office politics is on a roll and the grapevine is indicating that you might be in a uh oh position. Incredibly, this always happens when you are on vacation and guarantees to take the fun out of the relaxation because now you have to worry about who is stabbing you in the back. You will spend the rest of your holiday worry, making mobile calls, sending emails checking up who is taking part in the conspiracy against you. Your family will run up a small fortune in ‘room service’ and you will lose your temper and your wife will lose her temper because you lost yours and she’ll say it is a holiday and you’ll say yes, but eleven hamburgers and chips and kids will howl and you will be made to feel like a skinflint. The neighbours or friends back home will call you to tell you that some funny goings on have been noticed at your residence and the houseboy/housemaid could be up to something and there seems to be a leak in the waterpipe or the front gate looks like it has been broken into...gee, thanks guys, just what we need when we are 5000 miles away. May-July 2010
39
Oman -Trail
Salalah calling
40
May-July 2010
Salalah is unique from the rest of Arabia since it enjoys the monsoons, and remains cool, wet, green, and misty between June and September when the rest of Arabia is at its hottest. During the khareef season, incidentally the peak tourist season, the population of Salalah nearly doubles. Many popular fairs like the fair in Ittin takes place during this time
May-July 2010
41
Oman -Trail
We
had hit an atypical tourist
trail in Salalah when our Dhofari friend suddenly stops in the middle of the track and asks us to politely step down. We all clamber out of the 4WD and our friend tells us that we are all about to witness a phenomenon. Our eyes scoured the plain desert area and back at our friend. Nothing was happening anywhere. Not even a grain of sand was out of place. Our friend puts the car in neutral on that little incline, hands us the four-wheeler’s key and asks us to wait and watch. What was happening, we wondered, curiosity pinching us awake from that usual holiday numbness. Then we saw the vehicle suddenly beginning to roll …not downhill though. The nearly 2200kgs four-wheeler began to slowly move uphill. Our Dhofari friend takes his hands off the wheel in a typical, ‘look ma, no hands’ kind of approach and we watch amazed as the vehicle gained momentum and began to move at around 50kms per hour. Some of us bent down to see if there was something pulling the vehicle from beneath…others stood amazed, while the kids applauded. It was a spectacle worthy of a second round of applause and all of us obliged. We are not making this up! You have to see it to believe it! Wish Newton was alive;
he would have given us a hint on how the natural laws of physics were being defied at such a non-descriptive spot. This popular, but not too advertised, antigravity spot in Salalah (near Tawi Attar) is one of the few spots of its kind in the world. This little ‘magnetic mountain’ exemplifies Salalah – unique and now very popular, but intriguing. You can’t seem to get enough of the wonders that abound in this land that turns verdant during the special Khareef season, from mid-June to September. The route to the ‘magic’ spot may not be that well defined, but any resident can help you find it. Ideally, this spot, which defies gravity, is on the way towards Mirbat. Many swear by this anti-gravity spot and say that a first-time experience can sometimes make it feel a bit eerie. If it was some place else, they would have connected it to some alien feature. Unfortunately for those wanting to splash in some myths and fables, the truth runs dry: there are apparent scientific reasons behind this automatic movement. But, ideally, we leave it to you to visit and experience this unusual feature. And Salalah is like that. The more you get to know the place, the more reasons you will have to marvel at its wonders. Hop on a bus from Muscat for an 11 hour drive to Salalah. If you fall asleep and wake up after 10 or 11 hours, you are going to get a shock of your life. You would remember sunny
and
sweltering
Muscat
and
suddenly you will find yourself engulfed in mist (mid-June to August end). Are you still in Oman, you’d wonder if you are a first-time visitor to Salalah?
42
May-July 2010
May-July 2010
43
Oman -Trail
Salalah is unique from the rest of Arabia since it enjoys the monsoons, and remains cool, wet, green, and misty between June and September when the rest of Arabia is at its hottest. During the khareef season, incidentally the peak tourist season, the population of Salalah nearly doubles. Many popular fairs like the fair in Ittin takes place during this time. Among the many must-to-see spots is the Mughsail blowhole(s). Mughsail lies on a spectacular bay on the western side of Salalah. The magnificent white sand beach, which stretches for several kilometers, is outlined by sculptured cliffs and blowholes formed in the limestone rocks, where plumes of waters shoot up several metres. At high tide, the sea bursts dramatically through the rock slabs jutting out from the cliffs revealing many blow holes, the largest of which are covered with metal grids. The view along the coast where the mountains meet the sea is spectacular. The blowhole is a sight to see and also experience. When the tides are strong, the blowhole will erupt, sometimes spraying water up to a height of 30 to 100 feet. The Mughsail beach also offers an opportunity to pitch a tent or just play in the unspoilt beaches. While walking beside the rock shelf you can enjoy listening to the sound of waves. Spending time in the beaches of Salalah can be a wonderful experience. You can appreciate the beauty of nature in the beaches at Salalah. The nearby Khawr Mughsail is also a perfect hub of the migratory birds like flamingos, pelicans and storks. Watching these birds can be an enriching experience.
44
May-July 2010
REACHING THERE:
Getting to Salalah: By air: Getting to Salalah by air is an experience. This is probably the most convenient and the least time consuming way of reaching Salalah. The Salalah Airport caters to flights mainly to the city of Muscat. However international visitors can definitely reach Salalah by flight from Dubai. It also has flights to the neighbouring cities of Kuwait, Dubai and Doha. Getting to Salalah by flight from these cities is therefore not a hassle at all. (Salalah Airport - Visit the official website http://www.omanairports.com) By bus: Getting to Salalah by bus is probably the most convenient way of reaching Salalah. Oman National Transport Corporation (ONTC) and other private lines offer regular bus services to and from Salalah
May-July 2010
45
Oman -Trail
Silence of the By Najib Al Balushi
Her tiny lips parted, a look of mild surprise filled her innocent face, her eyes dilated with curiosity rather than fear…she was a picture of innocence, like a li’l lamb caught unawares (but not startled)… And she was perched on top of the green, almost semi-still mountain, Jebel Al Akhdar. A sparkling ‘jewel’ above the green ‘jewel’! She was picture perfect!
46
May-July 2010
Jebels May-July 2010
47
Oman -Trail She
must
have
been
around
five, maybe six, maybe more, maybe
our rose fairy was missing) selling fruits
less…it did not matter. That flawless
and roses.
image of sheer innocence and purity on that silent craggy mountain top was
Tiny
an
Saiq, Al Ain, and abandoned Wadi bani
incongruence,
but
eye-catching
nevertheless.
villages
including
picturesque
Habib, dot the landscape and overlook Although we were in the splendour of
a spectacular vista of peaks, gorges and
She sat there for less than a moment, just
this rose garden, we still couldn’t forget
wadis.
enough time for the lensman to capture
the little fairy who had our hearts beating
her, before she got up and lightly padded
in tandem. But, soon all of us were
Jebel Akhdar has, over the years,
away into some of the mountain caverns.
marvelling at the sight and enjoying the
managed to pack culture, history and
A silent wind stirred from somewhere,
fragrance of the roses. There were several
nature within just a few square miles
flapped our hair, and followed this little
100s of them in this little fragrant arena.
of land. The temperature of this land is
girl’s trail, as silently as she had fled from
This area is renowned for its traditional
rather noticeably cooler than what is
the scene.
rose water extraction, which is distilled in
normal for sea level. During the winter,
the homes of the villagers.
the temperature hovers below zero
Was she real? Was she a figment of our
most nights. While in the summer, the
imagination? Must be real, because this
The varied topography of the mountains
temperature is 20 to 30 degrees below
photo (cover picture) looks real, doesn’t
provides different habitats to animals
what is normal for this type of region.
it?
and plants. The flora and fauna in the area have close links with those of the
Despite this, Jebel Akhdar remains a
We went trailing after her into the quiet
mountains of Iran and Baluchistan, and
popular tourist destination for day trips
cavernous area in the mountain where
woodlands of juniper are found in both,
and camping expeditions. The green
she had disappeared…she was nowhere
it is said.
mountain is a location that almost every
to be seen!
Omani citizen is familiar with. This mountain range has long been
My friends and I followed a small trail
inhabited
to the right of the mountain path from
there on cliff faces or in caves are
where we had parked our 4WD. There
examples of rock art, some of which
was no sign of her. We slowly followed
is clearly many hundreds of years old.
by
people.
Here
and
this trail. And then before we realised that a pleasant aroma was wafting through
In the northern wadis, a string of villages
the air, we were suddenly swept into a
such as Bilad Sayt follow the course of
green minefield…exploding with bright
a spring line at the base of the north-
pink roses! Pink on green on a windswept
facing cliffs. Water from the springs is
mountain top!
used for the cultivation of many crops. Such temperate crops as grapes, roses,
We were in one of the terraced rose
pomegranates, walnuts and apricots are
gardens of Jebel Akhdar, which was
all successfully grown. We were actually
nearly 3000 metres above sea level.
overwhelmed by the abundance of fruits.
Swept by the pink wave, it took us a
Outside the Jebel Al Akhdhar hotel
moment or two to catch our breath.
(which is known to offer a warm bed to tired travellers), we saw little children (but
That little, mysterious girl, who seemed to have disappeared into thin air, had somehow led us to this pool of gorgeous bright pink roses.
48
May-July 2010
May-July 2010
49
Oman -Trail
We
explored
the
whole
area,
bumping into some of the mountain folks as well as their children. But, we could not find our little angel on the rock. As night fell, we pitched our tent on a flat land at the top. There are a lot of camp sites and we could see other nature lovers like us enjoying the silence of the mountain. But, neither the nights, nor the silence is eerie. The stillness had a resounding calming effect in us; the poets among us began to quietly compose couplets, the philosophers among us pondered about life in general… Silence has that hush hush quality that sets about a feeling of reverence and love for all things nature. As the stars sparkled and spangled above us, we warmed ourselves around a fire, our hearts springing with hope eternal for a new dawn, a new beginning… In the misty morning when we woke up, an image still played in front of us, in our eyes, in our hearts…A little angel perched on a mountain top. We desperately wanted to see her again, just once and slowly we packed and began the trail down, keeping our 4WD windows down, our eyes scouring the green and brown jebel landscape. But, the little one that stole our hearts was nowhere to be
REACHING THERE:
seen…
50
May-July 2010
Getting to Jebel Akhdar Jebel Akhdar Access to Jebel Akhdar is via the town of Birkat AlMawz; from the Birkat Al Mawz roundabout, take a right turn and then a left. A 36-kms stretch of winding road will lead you to the Jebel Akhdar hotel, which is a starting point to reach the Jebel Akhdar village, Diana’s point, Al Ayn etc.
May-July 2010
51
Oman -Trail
52
May-July 2010
A desert Saga
A 1986 expedition by the Royal Geographical Society documented the diversity of the Sharqiyah Sands (Wahiba Sands) terrain, the flora and fauna there, noting the existence of 16,000 invertebrates as well as 200 species of other wildlife, including avifauna. They also documented 150 species of native flora. A 2010, mid-March expedition documented another fact with the help of around 150 homo sapiens: there is no challenge like a desert challenge! And if you have been there, done that, make sure that this trip would have wiped off the know-it-all smirk from many a know-it-all type. For, you are going to sure know-it-all by the time you finish this off-the-beaten track (you call this a track? Ideally, we would need a massive plough to get across it, or, can’t we just fly across?).
May-July 2010
53
Oman -Trail
We are not making mountains of the desert molehills. Some of them were real, but sandy, mountains. And others were unreal sandy monstrosities, at 90 degrees vertical angles, where our beat 4WDs literally had to clamber up sandy ladders sans rungs. No exaggeration! Our 4WDs seemed like gigantic four-legged spiders trying to race up these walls. And like in the famous legend of King Robert the Bruce of Scotland who was inspired by a spider, which tried and tried and tried and finally managed to climb up its silken thread to its web, these desert spiders, manned by these adventurers, emulated that hallowed spider, which was a symbol of hope and perseverance for King Bruce, and finally came out winners. Each and every one of them! The desert, as they say, is the great leveller. The king and the commoner, man and woman, the novice and the expert all become one when confronted by towering sands and near ‘quick’ and ‘sticky’ sands.
54
May-July 2010
May-July 2010
55
Oman -Trail Yes, the men were separated by the boys at times when sheer experience and pure expertise had the manly ones from the desert-crossing organisers tear up some of the sand mountains as though they were cardboard sheets. For some, who knew the Sharqiyah sands like the back of their palms, rescuing mammoth 4WDs in tire and chassis deep sands and towing these same behemoths for kilometers at a stretch under the skinburning sweltering sky, it was child’s play, except that it is not and never will be! As for those who took the challenge by its horns, they had a mouthful to say before we all parted ways:
Authentic Omani Shuwa, the Guide way Guests gets a taste of traditional Shuwa, a typical Omani delicacy, marinated in a mix of unique spices and herbs. Ghalib Al Hosni (above), the master chef, ensures the taste remains authentic. 56
May-July 2010
Johan Joubert (six years in Oman, but first desert crossing experience): Stars,
incredible,
unbelievable
and
countless number of stars stare down at us! We don’t get to see that in the city. The
Sharqiyah
crossing
the
sands desert,
challenges…are
way
experiences… the
incredible
beyond
my
imagination. Next time, I will take my mother!
Fred Hahn (with twin kids Charlotte and James) Crossing Sharqiya Sands…it is an experience not to be missed at all. With correct supervision and guidance, it is a very safe adventure. The trip has been all sorts of entertainment for my family from basic to the height of adventure. Everyone should do it, the young old -- at least once in their lives!
Najeeb Al Zedjali (support crew) Last nine years I have been part of the desert crossing and I love it every time. The desert is where you can get away from it all, no mobile phones, no troubles…far from the madding crowd! Our team gave the visitors a slice of the quintessential Omani cuisine! You can eat a burger anywhere, but Omani shuwa? Your wish is my command!
Paul Battelu (support crew) This is an experience of a lifetime! It is like conquering the nature. You get to experience the sand dunes at its best. And yes, it is a great learning experience. You cannot generalise one trip with another. Every single crossing is unique and different, just like the desert, alive and moving!
Paul and Najeeb May-July 2010
57
Oman -Trail
Ian Duncan and wife (inset) This is one of the best experiences I have ever had! Awesome and breathtaking!
Jon Rose and Nancy Kennils I am very possessive and protective of Oman’s tranquil and unadulterated beauty. In my heart I would say let Oman remain a hidden corner and let no one ever discover it. Let commercialism never touch these dunes. Let it remain pure and pristine and a wellkept secret as it is now. Let us not leave any carbon footprints here.
Vincent This is my first Sharqiya Sands crossing trip and I wanted to capture the essence of it and here I am with my video camera. I am carrying it in my heart too. It is a great experience, exhilarating, tiring, challenging and fulfilling! Call me if you need a video!
58
May-July 2010
REACHING THERE:
Sharqiyah sands To get to the edge of the Sharqiyah Sands by public transport, take a Muscat–Sur bus and get dropped at AlQabil Rest House. The sands run parallel to the Muscat–Sur highway and the easiest access into the sands (with your own vehicle) is at Al-Mintrib.
(The Guide tourism company took the SAGO (South African Group of Oman) team on a challenging but exhilarating desert trip, recently).
May-July 2010
59
Celebrity Imprint
Diana’s
own lookout 60
May-July 2010
Oman’s own green mountain has a special place dedicated to the memory of a dear departed princess. In the Jebel Akhdar, or Green Mountain, which is part of the Hajjar range, there is a spot called ‘Diana’s Point’. It seems that the late Princess Diana once camped here, some 6000 feet up. The views opening up on all sides of this point are truly spectacular. Princess Diana had visited the place in the mid-eighties. She was flown in by helicopter to be shown the terraces from this location, it is said. Al Ayn – meaning spring or garden – is a village, which is a short distance away. If you are on the jebel, you will find yourselves surrounded by a flourish of colour and every shade of green, plus terraced falajs, or irrigation system, all of which will make the small villages positively blossom. You will find everything from pomegranates and peaches to sweet-smelling pink rose bushes.
May-July 2010
61
Postcard
visit Oman
14 times in 16 years Love makes people do many things. It makes the world go around. For Prof (Dr) Helmut Helwig and his wife, Sylvia, love made them fly all the way from Germany to Oman, not just once, twice or thrice, but 14 times in a span of 16 years.
In
62
May-July 2010
the enormous changes the country has had in the last decade. “We were bowled over by the country in our first visit in 1994 itself. We were looking for an attractive holiday destination and we looked up lots of travel literature and then finally homed in
short, they visited Oman
on this secret corner. We were not wrong
14 times since their first visit in 1994.
in our choice!� Dr Helmut and Sylia tell
Smitten by Oman and its people from the
Footprints in the splendour of the grand
moment they set foot here, theirs became
lobby of Al Bustan Palace hotel, their
a love affair that remains intact, despite
favourite hotel in Oman.
“We stayed for a week at Al Bustan. We realised that Oman was a cultural destination; it had proud but at the same
and tradition of the Omani people. In
time down-to-earth and gentle mannered
this respect we enjoyed the visit to the
people who were not too busy for guests
Heritage
like us. “We went around, toured Nizwa
Festival in 2003,” Dr Helmut said,
and went up Jebel Shams in a small bus.
reminiscing the moments of the years
Most of the general roads were small
past.
Village
during
the
Muscat
and there was very little traffic (a stark contrast to the scene today)! That was
“We were fascinated by the extraordinary
the beginning and we returned year after
hospitality and the unique mixture of a
Dr Helmut also made three formal visits to
year till 2006.”
contrasting
long-standing
Oman, the first in 1995, where he visited
traditions, and a high-speed economic
the Royal Hospital to give a lecture on
Because of health problems, the couple
progress. We were and still are highly
bacterial meningitis as invited speaker
did not come to Oman in the years
impressed by the achievements and
and guest of the late Professor (Dr)
between 2007 and 2009.
changes from medieval structures to
Elbualy and visited the pediatric ICU of
modern lifestyle, made possible by His
the SQU hospital. In 1994 and 2001, he
“In our first visit we were prepared to
Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said and
attended the Child Health Conferences.
come to a wealthy oil producing state with
his government as well as the growing
high living standards. We were surprised
prosperity due to development of natural
Today, Oman has become a second
to learn that traditional structures are
resources.”
home for them. “We feel at home here at
geography,
Al Bustan. We will come back as long as
cultivated with great efforts as well as health care and social security for
This year also they approached the Seeb
we can. We pray and hope Oman remains
everyone,” Dr Helmut said.
International Airport (Muscat International
as it is now. Let modernity not take away
Airport) like they have done so many years
its traditionality. Stay Omani always!”
During the 14 (including the current one)
in the past. “We went through the entry
visits, they learnt a lot about the country.
formalities, as usual, in a breeze. The
However, their current visit gave them
“It has a huge extension to very different
flower-decked roads, brightly illuminated
some new and changing experiences:
regions from the Batinah coast in the
at night all seemed like the whole country
“Road
north to the Dhofar in the south, from the
and it’s people were welcoming us. Even
attractions growing. But, traffic has
lovely and smooth coast to the Sharqiyah
with the enormous risen traffic we had no
become more intense and dangerous.
desert, the wadis, and the capital area,
problems in finding our way to Al Bustan
“We also feel that some aspects of the
to mention only a few. To understand
(40 kms).”
hospitality has been reduced due to
the influence of the enormous changes
Dr Helmut and his wife usually stay
growing Omanisation. The quality of
to the population since 1970, one needs
at familiar places and plan individual
goods have lowered. Prices are rising
to understand the history, heritage,
day-tours returning to their hotel in the
and value for money reduced...”
evening, as they do not like to change
But, that was not stopping them from
places too often.
coming again, next time. Love is blind!
system
growing,
tourism
“And, when we arrive at familiar hotels, restaurants, or shops we are mostly
What caught their attention:
welcomed and recognised by the staff as
•Safe country, easy to mingle
old friends.”
•Friendly and beautiful people •Silent, clean and peaceful •People speak English (we made friends with an Omani tour guide who spoke very good English) •Antique silver jewellery (disappearing slowly) What they did not like: •Too many constructions (at the beach sides) •Lack
of
bookshops/international
publications •Increasing traffic May-July 2010
63
2nd Asian
Beach Games Muscat 2010 From 8-16 December 2010 the shores of Oman will come alive with beach sporting action! 45 National Olympic Committees from across Asia will send their athletes to compete in this celebration of sporting excellence. Hosted on the beaches of Muscat and Al-Musannah, the Games will represent the largest multi-sport event to ever come to Oman.
Sa
nctioned
the
Olympic
THE VENUES Al-Musannah Sports City
Council of Asia, the Games are to be
At the heart of the 2nd Asian Beach
held every two years, with the first edition
Games Muscat 2010 lies the one-million
Information Technology Control Centre,
hosted by Bali, Indonesia, October 18 to
sq m Al-Musannah Sports City. The
and
26, 2008.
purpose built facility is located 125km
enabling media to share the beach action
north of Muscat and features a four-star
with the world.
International
Broadcast
Centre
Muscat was chosen as the second host
hotel, serviced apartments, an events
for the Games because of its spectacular
plaza, the Athletes’ Village, a range of
Muscat
beaches, warm hospitable people, and
retail and restaurant facilities, and a
Various local beaches in the Muscat
the commitment by the Sultanate to
50-berth marina. In addition, MABGOC
City area will host competition venues.
promote sports, active lifestyle and youth
will provide a hub for the Games to be
Additionally,
seen internationally with the construction
venues showcasing cultural events and
of
activities will be located in Muscat.
development. The 14 sports •Beach Handball •Beach Kabaddi •Beach Sepaktakraw •Beach Soccer •Beach Volleyball •Beach Waterpolo •Beach Woodball •Bodybuilding •Jetski Sport •Marathon Swimming •Sailing •Tent Pegging •Triathlon •Waterski 64
by
May-July 2010
the
Games
Command
Centre,
various
non-competition
COME AND ENJOY The 2nd Asian Beach Games Muscat 2010 is not just for the athletes!
TOGETHER WE SHINE
The Games also welcome local and
With the vision to proudly host a world-
international spectators to celebrate
class Games that will position Oman
in the nine-days of sporting action. A
as
range of entertaining cultural events,
and uniquely hospitable part of Asia,
activities and sight-seeing opportunities
and define Oman as a host for future
for visitors are endless giving you lots of
international events, the Muscat Asian
reasons to stay in Oman even after the
Beach Games Organising Committee
closing ceremony.
has been tireless in its preparations.
a
progressive,
outward
looking
Since being awarded the Games in 2007,
MEET THE MASCOTS
the
Three unique animals from Oman have
included various milestones including
been chosen to represent the Games.
test-events,
The Green Turtle, Houbara and Tahr
and day-to-day coordination with the
represent the sea, the sky and the lands
Olympic Council of Asia to ensure the
of Oman, respectively. The mascots will
highest Games-standards are met. We
be used to generate excitement in the
invite you to attend the 2nd Asian Beach
Committee’s
preparations
international
have
promotions,
Muscat was chosen as the 2nd host for the Games because of its spectacular beaches, warm hospitable people, and the commitment by the Sultanate to promote sports, active lifestyle and youth development
Games Muscat 2010 where Together We Shine!
THE LEGACY OF THE GAMES Legacy is widely considered as one of the most valuable success indicators of hosting major events for any host country. Tourism, economic positioning, transfer of knowledge, and the raising Games both locally and internationally
of national spirit are just a few of the
and
benefits that resonate in a host city and
over
the
coming
months
the
community will have the opportunity to meet the mascots at special events.
country for many years after the event. www.muscat2010.org.om May-July 2010
65
Foot forward
I read a book
66
May-July 2010
I read a book’ themed fashion show saw 12 local amateur
found in books, demonstrating the many benefits of reading
designers showcase their talent at Qurum City Centre
through unique designs and styles. In addition to getting up-
recently. Fashion show was hosted by Layali Al Asalah in
to-date with the latest fashion trends, spectators also learnt
partnership with City Centre . It was a fashion show, which
about the many local libraries around the city making the
added glamour and glitz to the imagination and wisdom
power of books available to one and all, old and young. May-July 2010
67
Foot forward
Galeries Lafayette
The legendary French style, Galeries Lafayette, introduced an extravagant fashion show that showcased the world’s latest in the fashion industry last month in Dubai. The fashion show combined the latest in modern architecture and fashion with a wide range of shopping and exclusive international and French brands such as Maje, Amal Azhari,
68
Burberry, Diesel, Yrusha, See by Chloé, Tara Jarmon, Antik
Rene Derhy, Marithe+Francois Girbaud and Comptoir des
Batik, Sprinkles, Grand Optics, Celyn B – Elizabetha Franchi,
Cotonniers, and it will be a testament to Galeries Lafayette’s
Balmain, , Sandro, Zadig et Voltaire, Athe by Vanessa Bruno,
constant evolution and innovation in lifestyle shopping.
May-July 2010
May-July 2010
69
Foot forward
Dubai Fashion Week
A
week-long
fashion
extravaganza
came to end with Indian fashion icon, Sabyasachi, presenting a spectacular grand finale show at Dubai Fashion Week. Held at the iconic Jumeirah Emirates Towers, the Autumn/Winter 2010 season marked Dubai Fashion Week’s most successful show with 45 local, regional and international designers wowing the audience as models took to the catwalk to showcase the season’s trends. The five-day event attracted over 25,000 guests from across the globe to attend the event with Indian Bollywood celebrities like Kabir and Pooja Bedi, Mugda Gose, Kalpana Iyer, Ali Zafar and international football star Abel Faisal Xavier and Italian jazz singer Cecilia were seen at the front rows or on the catwalk during the different shows.
70
May-July May 20102010
May-July 2010
71
Foot forward
72
May-July 2010
Souq-Trail
Traditional flavour at
Muttrah souq The flavour of the most famous bazaar in Oman is one of simple tradition. Muttrah souq, which is located behind the Muttrah Corniche, offers a mix of old and new, sights and sounds and fragrances in abundance. No tour of any country is complete without visiting its well-known marketplaces or souqs. So, a tourist to Oman might as well enjoy many hours of shopping or merely browsing or walking through the labyrinth of alleyways and scores of shops selling the best-known souvenir items Oman has to offer. The Muttrah souq can offer the latest in Omani gold and silver jewellery, traditional handicrafts, souvenirs, Bedouin jewellery, antiques and perfumes, frankincense, myrrh, spices and large cooking pots. Visitors can also buy carved handmade silver khanjars, rose water sprinklers, dallas (Omani coffee pots), incense burners, carpets, wooden carvings etc. Not only are the items original, there is a traditional flavour that quite befits a tourism spot. May-July 2010
73
Information
Traveller’s guide Airlines Flight Information (24 hours): 24 519456 Aeroflot: 24 704455 Air Arabia 24 700828 Air France 24 562153 Air India 24 799801 Air New Zealand 24 700732 Biman Bangladesh Airlines 24 701128 British Airways 24 568777 Cathay Pacific 24 789818 Egypt Air 24 794113 Emirates Air 24 792222 Ethiopian Airlines 24 660313 Gulf Air (toll-free number) 800 72424 Indian Airlines 24 791914 Iran Air 24 787423 Japan Airlines 24 704455 Jazeera Airways 23 294848 Jet Airways 24 796680 Kenya Airways 24 660317 KLM 24 566737 Kuwait Airways 24 701262 LOT Polish Airlines 24 796387 Lufthansa 24 796692 Malaysian Airlines 24 560796 Middle East Airlines 24 796680 Oman Air 24 707222, 24519953 PIA 24 792471 Qatar Airways 24 771900 Qantas 24 559941 Royal Jordanian 24 796693 Saudi Arabian Airlines 24 789485 Singapore Airlines 24 791233 Sri Lankan Airlines 24 784545 Sudan Airways 24816565 Swiss Air 24 787416 Syrian Airways 24797567 Thai Airways 24 705934 Turkish Airlines 24 475030 Art galleries Al Madina Art Gallery Bait Muzna Gallery Omani Heritage Gallery Omani Society for Fine Arts Raj Relics 99329842 Yitti Art Gallery Bookshops Borders Family Bookshop, Qurm Madinat as Sultan Qaboos Turtles House of Prose (Used books) Cinemas Al Nasr Cinema Al Shatti Plaza
24691380 24739204 24696974 24694969 24564297
24558089 24564391 24600084 24696217 24564356
24831358 24693557
Markaz al Bahja Cinema Stars Cinema
24540855 24791641
Embassies and consulates Algeria 24 605593 Austria 24 793135 Bahrain 24 605074 Bangladesh 24 567379 Belgium 24 562033 Canada 24 788890 Chile 24 561977 China 24 696698 Colombia 24 816264 Cyprus 24 490200 Denmark 24 526000 Egypt 24 600411 Finland 24 701454 France 24 681800 Germany 24 832164 Greece 24 706648 Holland 24 603706 India 24 814120 Iran 24 696944 Iraq 24 604178 Ireland 24 797083 Italy 24 693727 Japan 24 601028 Jordan 24 692760 Korea 24 691490 Kuwait 24 699627 Lebanon 24 695844 Malaysia 24 698329 Mexico 24 561977 Morocco 24 696152 Mozambique 24 594207 Netherlands 24 603719 Norway 24 603706 Pakistan 24 603439 Palestine 24 601312 Philippines 24 605140 Portugal 24 561400 Qatar 24 691153 Russian Federation 24 602894 Rwanda 24 487978 Saudi Arabia 24 601744 Somalia 24 697977 South Africa 24 694793 Spain 24 691101 Sri Lanka 24 697841 Sudan 24 697875 Sweden 24 708693 Switzerland 24 568202 Syria 24 697904 Taiwan 24 605695 Tanzania 24 601174 Thailand 24 602684 Tunisia 24 603486 Turkey 24 697050 United Arab Emirates 24 600988 United Kingdom 24 609000
Uruguay USA Yemen Libraries Bibliothèque Française: British Council Knowledge and Learning Centre: Oman Chamber of Commerce and Industry: Public Technical Library Science: United States Information Service: Raspberry’s Books: Museums Bait Adam 99356676 Bait Al Baranda Bait Al Zubair Children’s Museum 24605368/9 Currency Museum Muscat gate Museum Nakhal Fort museum National Museum Natural History Museum Omani-French Museum Oman Heritage Museum Planetarium: Sayyid Faisal bin Ali Museum Salalah Museum Sohar fort Museum Sultan’s Armed Forces Museum Sur Maritime Museum
24 568202 24 643400 24 600815
24681874 24681000 24707684 24673111 24643400 95086074
24605033, 24714262 24736688
24641510 24739005 26781384 24701289 24641366 24736613 24600346 24675542 24641650 23294549 26844758 24588700 24541466
Special interest groups American Women’s Group 24594751 Environment Society of Oman 24482121 Historical Association of Oman 24563074 Horticultural Association 24605493 Indian Social Club 99322713 Muscat Amateur Theatre 24562511 Oman Bird Watching Camp 24695498 Omani Women Association 24602800 Royal Omani Amateur Radio Society 24600407 Woman’s Guild of Oman www.womensguildoman.org Taxis Al Dar Taxi Hello taxi Muscat Cab
24700555 24697997 96429096
Read our magazine ONLINE
Log on to
www.blackandwhiteoman.com
Oman’s first premier travel magazine
Annual subscription
To subscribe please call 98675976 or e-mail footprints@blackandwhiteoman.com
I wish to subscribe the Footprints Quarterly Travel Magazine
SUBSCRIPTION FORM Name: City, Region: Country, Zip/postal code: E-mail: Phone Number:
May-July 2010
77
ˆ,SRK /SRK -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ+YERK^LSY &EP]YR -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ&IMNMRK 'ETMXEP P]YRR -RX P -RX % & %MVVTSVX -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ7LERKLEM 4YHSRK -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ/YEPE 0YQTYV -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ7IREM -RX P %MVTSVX .SLSVI ˆ7MRKETSVI 'LERKM %MVTSVX ˆ:ERGSYZIV -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ8SVSRXS 4IEVWSR -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ1YWGEX -RX P %MVTSVX ˆ6ENMZ +ERHLM -RX P %MVTSVX ,]HIVEFEH ˆ-RHMVE +ERHLM -RX P %MVTSVX 2I[ (IPLM
>ELEVE %MVTSVX 7IVZMGIW 00' *SV MRJSVQEXMSR ERH FSSOMRK +71 8IP *E\ I QEMP IRUYMV] TTPQGX$TPE^E RIX[SVO GSQ
(ITEVXYVI 0SYRKI
ȐɉǸɑɜ ȨȽ ȐɰȃȐȵȵȐȽɜ ɕȣǸɉȐѳ
(ITEVXYVI XIVQMREP 1YWGEX -RXIVREXMSREP %MVTSVX
1IIX ERH KVIIX WIVZMGIW SR EVVMZEP
%VVMZEP 0SYRKI 3TIRMRK 7SSR