Footprints Travel mag1

Summer Special Issue. 1, Vol. 1, May-July 2010

Oman’s first premier travel magazine

Silence of the Jebels Globe-Trail

Oman-Trail

Magic of the Maasai Merhaba! Welcome to Turkey Climbing Mt Kinabalu Driving Green – Ireland

Salalah calling Desert saga Fashion, Travel trivia, Souq shopping, Oman visitors & more May-July 2010

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C o n t e n t s Editor-in-chief Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali Managing editor Priya Arunkumar Work editor Adarsh Madhavan Design and production Beneek Siraj Photographer Najib Al Balushi Advt. & marketing Rajeev Kalle, Ali Al Raisi, Swithun Fernandes Printers Oman Printers

A

46 presentation

Published by: Muscat Press & Publishing House SAOC Postal address: P O Box 86, PC 115, Madinat Sultan Qaboos Office location: Hatat House, Office no: 212, II Floor Ph: 24565697 Fax: 24565496 e-mail: footprints@blackandwhiteoman.com

On the cover

A joint venture with Zahara Travel and Service Bureau

Design: Beneek Siraj, Photo: Jaap Croese 4

May-July 2010

O ma n-Tr a il

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Magic of the Maasai The Maasai Mara is the most famous of the Kenyan Game Parks, covering an area of some 1,500 sq kms

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Love for Turkey M. Hayri Erol, Turkish ambassador to Oman speaks to Footprints.

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Looking for adventure?

Head straight to Mt Kinabalu in Malaysian Borneo

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66

Glo b e -T ra i l

Fa shio n

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Driving green – Ireland Ireland is ideal for those who like hopping in a car and straying off the beaten path

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Salalah calling Salalah is unique from the rest of Arabia since it enjoys the monsoons. It remains cool, wet, green, and misty between June and September

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The desert challenge A live account by a group of intrepid desert lovers who crossed the tricky Sharqiyah sands in 4WDs

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Smitten by Oman A German couple visited Oman 14 times in 16 years.

May-July 2010

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Ahlan Wa Sahlan

Another first...

Dr Rajiha Abdulamir Ali Minister of Tourism

Oman is poised to enter a brand new tourism era.

There are several infrastructural projects in various stages of developments and our well strategised marketing plans are bringing the desired tourist inflows and will continue to do so. With the new airport projects, Oman Air’s expanding wings, easing of visa policies, development and promotion of domestic tourism, we can expect more growth.

We are steadily marching on in this direction and (as per the strategies of ‘Vision 2020’) Oman hopes to attract around three million tourists annually by 2020. Once the new Muscat International Airport is operational, it will be able to handle more than 12 million annual visitors. Domestic airports are also to be built in Adam, Ras Al Hadd, Sohar and Duqm, which will help us promote these regions. Our eased visa policies will now enable nationals of up to 70 countries to receive entry visas on arrival at the airport. Nationals of other countries can also obtain entry visa within a short period of time.

The time is ripe for Oman to throw open its arms to the whole wide world. The groundwork is being done and everything is moving ahead in that direction of opening the country to its amazing tourism potential.

However, there has been a vacuum for an exclusive tourism publication. Zahara Travel Group, with its years of tourism involvement and experience, have always felt the need for one. In association with Black & White magazine they are introducing an independent publication – a travel and tourism magazine on international standards having its roots in Oman looking both inwards and outwards.

Let us welcome ‘Footprints’ – the first travel magazine of its kind in Oman -- which is all set to promote our country as an exclusive and niche destination. Footprints, which advocates the policy of ‘taking only memories and leaving only footprints’, is a brand new travel venture.

Turn these pages and be part of a new experience!

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May-July 2010

From 8-16 December 2010 the beaches of Oman will come alive as 2,000 athletes from 45 Asian countries and regions compete in 14 beach sports.

The 2nd Asian Beach Games Muscat 2010 will be the biggest ever international sporting event hosted by the Sultanate. Held on beaches around Muscat and at the one-million sq m purpose built Al-Musannah Sports City, the Games will be a festival of sport and culture.

Check out our website

www.muscat2010.org.om and join us on Facebook.

Friend, philosopher & guide

Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali Editor-in-chief

The secret is out Oman had very little or no tourists many years back. As a little boy, I remember seeing only relatives of expatriates who were employed here, or some business travellers. There were no leisure travellers.

But, today Oman is no longer a best-kept secret or a hidden corner as it was known earlier. Our nation has become more accessible and we are welcoming tourists with open arms. And unlike any other country, we can boast of Oman being naturally rich in landscape and traditions, whilst being one of the safest and most peaceful countries in the world.

Oman is my secret corner. I have seen the world, but, I think I am still discovering Oman, day by day. And there is so much to see and learn and understand.

Oman, despite opening up, still remains a mystery for many. The mountains, beaches, deserts and during the June-July-August stretch we have the cloudy misty magical Salalah Khareef season. Just imagine, while we are sweating here in sweltering Muscat, some 1000kms away, there is a region (Dhofar) where everything is cool and green, and having only 20plus degrees. It is sometimes too good to be true. And I keep wondering should we not start off an international marathon event in July in Salalah and make the most of the cool climate that nature has showered on us?

Now, why do you travel? For business, leisure or love for nature? Whatever the reason you choose, travel broadens/opens your mind through live experiences, taught by varied culture, heritage and history of the country you visit, the people you meet. You shed your old and heavy baggage and return with a fresh mind and new baggage filled with renewed creativity. And the world becomes a university that teaches you lessons untaught in any classroom.

Travelling is the best way to bond with your family, so go together and enjoy some grand moments with them. But, when you travel, do so with an open mind. There is so much out there to see and experience.

Experiencing different cultures brings understanding, tolerance, peace and hopefully the knowledge. So go ahead, travel around while you can‌ be it inbound or outbound. Bon voyage!

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May-July 2010

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Globe-Trail

Magic of the Maasai A Maasai without culture is like a zebra without stripes – anonymous.

Ethnic groups are characterised and identified by dress and ornamentation – everywhere! The Maasai are, perhaps, one of the most widely recognised people in terms of fashion and decoration, sporting bright colours, intricate patterns, and jewellery that dangles, jingles, and catches the eye. The Maasai conjure up popular images of young brides weighted with beaded ornamentation. Intricate beadwork has been an art form of Maasai women for centuries. To this day beadwork is an important means through which women demonstrate their social understanding and creative capability.

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May-July 2010

May-July May-July 2010 2010

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Globe-Trail The Maasai stick together. No one can break the team; they go through life’s challenges together. They go through certain rituals to prove they can withstand pain. They have been prepared from childhood to deal with their own fears. Maasai men are schooled in how to deal with fear at every stage of their lives.

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May-July 2010

You either love or hate Kenya.

There is no in between.

Th

The good-natured practical wisdom of

ere is this story about a

Africans (Kenyans) or the fact that Africa

young man who went to Kenya for the

is a destination from where you can

first time with some friends of his.

turn towards many new destinations

experience the country’s world famous

(philosphcally)? Africa is not just a

wildlife. The most common way is to

destination, it is way beyond that. The

He was always intrigued by this dark and

go on a safari. Whether in a four-wheel

country shows that you can live life in a

wild continent. So, like most first timers to

drive, on a walking safari, tracking game

totally different way. Let us not be blind to

Kenya, which is situated on the equator

on horseback, searching for rare birds in

the downsides of the continent. Let us not

on Africa’s east coast, and described as

a thick rainforest or watching from the

gloss over the problems, the dangers, but

‘the cradle of humanity’, this young man

comfortable veranda of a safari lodge.

despite all that, there is no country that

was quite awed by the sights and sounds

Aeroplane or hot air balloon trips are

can evoke so much passion and love and

and the people of Africa (Kenya).

available at the Maasai Mara National

turn us on a new path in a mere visit.

Reserve.

African fever

The night of his visit, he sat around little

Maasai Mara Most

visitors

to

Kenya

want

to

The Maasai Mara is the most famous of

open fires and listening to the nocturnal

Every tourist’s dream

calls of the wild under a magical starlit

With its scenic beauty and abundant

sky, texted his girlfriend: “I love…Africa!”

area of some 1,500 square kilometres.

wildlife, Kenya is one of Africa’s major

One would have expected him to profess

Situated in the south-west of the country,

safari destinations. Kenya has some of

his love to his girlfriend, or at least say

it joins with the Serengeti to its south,

Africa’s finest beaches, most abundant

that he was missing her…no! He had

across the border in Tanzania, to form

wildlife

tourism

more important things to tell her: he had

a huge reserve for the animals within.

infrastructure. It has over 50 national

fallen in love with Africa! He was caught

It gets its name from the tribe who

parks and reserves cover all habitats from

by the Africa fever.

own the land (the Maasai) and the river

desert to mountain forest, and there are six

that runs through the park (the Mara).

marine parks in the Indian Ocean. Kenya

Herds of elephant wander through its

also has a diverse population with around

grasslands, feeding off the shrubs and

40 different tribes, all with their own (often

Most lovers of Africa are unable to

trees that litter the park. Amongst them,

related) languages and cultures, including

explain it. What was it that touched

zebra, eland, Thomson’s gazelles and

the Maasai, who still lead a traditional

them and endeared to this dark, wild

many, many more types of grazing animal

semi-nomadic lifestyle of cattle-herding

and magical land? The rawness of life?

spend their days and nights grazing

along the southern border.

the rich grasslands. To the west of the

Fall in love with a dark, wild beauty

and

a

sophisticated

the Kenyan Game Parks, covering an

park is the Esoit Oloololo Escarpment, a particularly good area in which to see the wildlife. But overall, the wildebeest rules, with huge numbers around the park.

There are several lodges and camps to choose from in the Masai Mara, ranging from large properties with over 100 rooms, to small, remote camps with no more than four to five tents. The majority of the lodges are situated in the southeast of the reserve, either inside or on its border. There are also camps and lodges on the western side of the Mara River, that bisects the park, which is more difficult to reach (fly-in safaris sometimes the only option) but which offer exceptional game-viewing.

May-July 2010

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Globe-Trail

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May-July 2010

Greatest wildlife show on earth It was a stampede. Hundreds of wildebeest, some males weighing around 250kilograms, were pounding earth at around 80 kilometres per hour. In a thunderous display, these migrating wildebeest raised plumes of dust as they fled from their natural predator, a lion. But, after a quarter of an hour, the stampede died in the same manner it began. One, the lion found an easy-to-catch young victim and the wildebeest got tired of running, slowed to a trot and then stopped.

May-July 2010

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Globe-Trail

We

lcome to the greatest

wildlife show on earth (which takes place within Kenya and Tanzania)! The wildebeest migration is not just for show, it is a dramatic story, which can be witnessed live!

wildebeest migration closely, waiting for an opportunity to strike weak prey as they

Wildebeest stampedes are famous in

make their way into different territories.

Africa, and the animals can travel up to

The migration is a natural phenomenon

50 miles per hour (80 kilometers per hour)

determined by the availability of grazing.

for at least 30 minutes when they are

These animals make a migratory circle of

fleeing predators. Animals caught in their

500 to 1,000 miles each year, beginning right after the calving season in January and

February

on

the

southeastern

Serengeti plains, moving west toward Lake Victoria, then turning north into the Maasai Mara. They are relentless in their advance and many are injured, lost (especially calves) or killed. By the end of the dry season, the wildebeest have almost exhausted the grazing lands and return south to the Serengeti plains as the rains begin. And, this is the time when there is plenty of rain-ripened grass available for nearly 500,000 zebra that precede 1.8million wildebeest and the following 100,000 plains game.

By the end of the dry season, the wildebeest have almost exhausted the grazing lands and return south to the Serengeti plains as the rains begin.

Even

experts

can’t

rightly

predict

the precise timing of the wildebeest way will be run down. (But, you need not

migration. It changes annually and it is

worry about getting stuck in their path.

a very unpredictable and spontaneous

Going on safari to view and witness the

natural event. The calving season takes

wildebeest migration is one of the ultimate

place in the Serengeti between January

safari experiences that Africa has to offer.)

and mid-March before the wildebeest

REACHING THERE:

migration begins heading towards the

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GETTING TO KENYA Kenya Airways – non stop to Nairobi GSA – National Travel & Tourism: +968 24660317/318 Fax: +968 24566125 Email: mct.sales@kenya-airways.com Emirates – via Dubai - +968 24404400 Qatar Airways – via Doha to KL - +968 24771900

May-July 2010

Between the open plains of the Serengeti

western Serengeti in June. The best

and the Maasai (*) Mara, thousands of

time (*1) to see the migration is usually

wildebeest and zebras migrate to greener

between June and August when the

pastures as the seasons change and the

wildebeest congregate and prepare to

circle of life and death continues. Life…

cross the famous Grumeti River.

because nothing can compare to the sight of thousands of wildebeest moving.

There are some excellent camps in this

Tragic…because predators follow the

area where you can stay to witness this natural phenomenon. If you are in the Maasai Mara you can expect the

wildebeest to make their arrival as early

often remain in the same groups as their

as July, but they generally arrive between

mothers.

August and September and remain in the Mara between October and November.

Most of the wildebeest calves are born

Between December and January the

in just a three-week period, usually the

wildebeest gradually begin their migration

beginning of February. Calves attract

back towards the Serengeti.

predators and this is an amazing time of the year to watch impressive lion hunts

Wildebeest females give birth to a

(kills). It’s also quite stunning to see almost

single calf in the middle of the herd, not

half a million little wildebeest being born

seeking a secluded place, as do many

and running together with their mothers.

antelopes. Amazingly, about 80 percent of the females calve within the same two

(*) The name originates from two

to three week period, creating a glut for

Dutch

predators and thus enabling more calves

‘wild beast’. A wildebeest can also be

to survive the crucial first few weeks. A

known by the alternate name of gnu, a

calf can stand and run within minutes of

word which comes from the Khoikhoi

birth. It immediately begins to follow its

language of Africa. ‘Gnu’ is probably an

mother and stays close to her to avoid

onomatopoeia, because male wildebeest

getting lost or preyed upon. Within days,

make a grunting noise, which sounds

it can run fast enough to keep up with the

suspiciously similar.

Afrikaans

words,

meaning

adult herd. (*1) Please note this is a general A calf eats its first grass at about 10 days,

description of the migration cycle. Due

although it is still suckled for at least

to the spontaneous and unpredictable

six months. mo onths. Even after weaning, many

timing of the migration, it is wise to

re em ma ain n with wit ith h the t e mother th mo m oth t er er until unt ntil the the h next ne ex xt remain

cons co nsul ultt wi ul w th your th you ur travel trrav avel el agent age ge gent ent or or advisor ad dvi v so sorr consult with

year ye ar’s ar ’s c allf iss born. a bor o n. n At At that thatt time tim tim ime e the th he young y un yo ung g year’s calf

to og e u et p tto od dat a e re at epo port rts ts wh when he en np lla annin ng get up date reports planning

m le ma es ar re driven driv dr driv iven a iven way, b wa way, ut the ut the he ffe emale maless males are away, but females

yyo our ur ssafari. afa af far arii.. your

May-July 2010

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Globe-Trail

In Turkey

you are not a stranger

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May-July 2010

Knock knock…

“Who’s there?!”

Merhaba!

It’s God’s guest!

So, Merhaba(hello)! Welcome to Turkey,

“Oh, c’mon in, you’re most welcome!”

a country that plays host to two of the seven wonders – Temple of Artemis

In

at Ephesus and the Mausoleum at Halicarnasus (Bodrum) – of the world!

And, the first question most of the Turks Turkey, you are not

might ask you is: Nasilsiniz? Meaning,

considered a stranger if you happen to

how are you? And before you respond to

knock at someone’s door.

that, we will come to the most important

Tradition in Turkey says that a stranger

question: How about some tea?

at one’s doorstep is considered “God’s

It is often said that what beer is to a

guest” for at least three days.

Bavarian, tea is to a Turk. Tea is served

So, if you are in Turkey – which is home

anytime, anywhere in tiny gold rimmed,

to the oldest known human settlement in

tulip shaped glasses along with couple of

Catalhoyuk (7th Millenium BC) -- and do

lumps of sugar (beetroot). So, if you were

not have a hotel booking or don’t have a

wondering what could be more Turkish

place to stay, you might as well knock on

than coffee, the answer is simple: tea!

some door and enjoy a three night’s stay

An average Turk consumes around two-

as God’s own guest!

litres of tea per day, and this along with

But, let us not risk it. Don’t strike of

cigarettes is the energy-kick that drives

‘hotel stay’ from your travel budget list to

them throughout the day and night.

Turkey, who gave the Dutch their famous

This is why the Turks are great fans of

Tulips, just because we told you this.

nightlife, which is quite active in Turkey.

Imagine a horde of visitors from all over the world dropping in to Turkey because

Veni, Vidi, Vici (I came, I saw, I

someone somewhere said that strangers

conquered)

are welcome for three days to any home

We may have heard of this phrase so

in this bridge between the Middle East

many times, ad nauseum! But, it is most

and Western Europe.

relevant in this context because, this

Although a Muslim country, it is a secular

celebrated proclamation was issued by

one where all visitors are welcome

Juilius Caeser in Turkey (after defeating

and many viewpoints are tolerated. St

the Pontus, a formidable sea region of

Nicholas (Santa Claus) was born and

Turkey).

lived as bishop of Myra (Kale) in Turkey.

Until the end of the 19th century, Turkey was the heart of the Ottoman Empire.

During WWI it was aligned with Germany

Tea is served anytime, anywhere in tiny gold rimmed, tulip shaped glasses along with couple of lumps of sugar (beetroot). So, if you were wondering what could be more Turkish than coffee, the answer is simple: tea!

and following the defeat of the Axis Powers, the Allies tried to carve it up while Greece invaded to claim the western part of the country. Kemal Mustafa, later to be known as Ataturk, who had led the defeat of Britain, Australia, and New Zealand at Gallipoli rallied the country, overthrew the Sultans, and defeated the invaders.

Ataturk then went on to introduce the western alphabet and numbers, a secular government, outlaw the veil in public buildings and set the country on a path of modernisation. walk to page 23...

May-July 2010

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Globe-Trail

20

May-July 2010

The chirpy Grand Bazaar, Istanbul Just next to the deluxe shopping malls where you can find world-wide famous brands all together, there is an alternative shopping center, unique to Istanbul and which actually describes it: The Grand Bazaar. This bazaar is a place which keeps lots of vanishing professions alive with their unique culture. It is the world’s oldest, biggest bazaar where most variable products are exhibited. The bazaar includes more than 3000 shops and it is visited by approximately 400,000 people.

May-July May-July 2010 2010

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Globe-Trail

The most common preparations are roasting and grilling, which produce the famous Turkish kebabs, including döner kebap, the national dish, and köfte, the workingman’s favourite

22

May-July 2010

taste, which is still served throughout in Turkey) on Noah’s Ark (which landed on Mount Ararat – Agri Dagi – in Eastern Turkey).

Bread is baked fresh early morning for breakfast and lunch, and late afternoon for dinner.

Turkey also produces excellent, delicately scented honey of many varieties and it is also the largest producer of hazelnuts in the world. As for drinks, pure spring

TURKEY – BIO

Famous Turkish cuisine

water is always available, but the general

Time to stuff ourselves: Turkish cuisine

advice is to drink only bottled water.

is indeed famous and scrumptious. In

Turkey is also famous for its succulent

fact, this country is noted for having one

fruit, and thus for its fruit juices. There’s

of the three most famous and distinctive

also ayran (yogurt mixed with spring

traditional cuisines in the world. It is even

water—tastes like buttermilk), which

vegan friendly, meaning the cuisine is rich

goes well with kebap (roast lamb). You

and savoury, and not exactly spicy-hot,

also get freshly squeezed orange juice

with abundant use of vegetables. But,

and apricot juice.

it is not veggies all the way. There are

Turkish tea is the national stimulant, even

meat portions, except that they are likely

at breakfast, and famous Turkish coffee

to be comparatively smaller portions. It

only a distant second.

Full name: Republic of Turkey

is a veggies delight because vegetables

Population: 74.8 million (UN,

predominate in most meals.

Nightlife

2009)

Turkish cuisine is mostly based on lamb

And Turkey is modern, right? The joke is

Capital: Ankara

and mutton, but also includes beef and

that the combined consumption of tea

Largest city: Istanbul

chicken, as well as an assortment of

and cigarettes has the residents staying

Area: 779,452 sq km (300,948 sq

seafood. The most common preparations

up pretty late into the night... So what

miles)

are roasting and grilling, which produce

do they do when they are not sleeping?

Major language: Turkish

the famous Turkish kebabs, including

Have fun, of course!

Major religion: Islam

döner kebap, the national dish, and köfte,

This takes us to the lively Turkish

Life expectancy: 69 years (men),

the workingman’s favourite. But there’s

nightclubs, which are considered to

74 years (women) (UN)

much more to Turkish cuisine than grills,

be “jolly” affairs, especially when the

Monetary unit: Turkish lira

says visitors, which played host to the

audience is also asked to sing along.

Main exports: Clothing and

last meal (a pudding of sweet and sour

If you are the type that would like to sing and dance till the wee hours of the

iron and steel, motor

morning, then, enjoy. But, after eating,

vehicles and machinery, fuels

drinking and making merry, make your

and oils GNI per capita: US $9,340 (World Bank, 2008) Internet domain: .tr International dialling code: +90

REACHING THERE:

textiles, fruit and vegetables,

GETTING TO TURKEY Turkish Airlines: +968 24765071/72 GSA – Majan International Agencies Travel & Tourism LLC – +968 24700100/24781281

way to a hamam, the Turkish bath, for a proper soak and massage before heading home. Tomorrow is another day.

But, remember to start the next day too with a refreshing round of…tea!

May-July 2010

23

Globe-Trail

Sunset at the Bosphorus Istanbul is the only city in the world built on two continents.

Straddling the Bosporus, it guards the eastern end of the waterway between the Black and Mediterranean Seas. Much of it is just a big, sprawling city, but the heart of the city has cozy cafes, the wonderful Grand Bazaar, the Top Kapi and Aya Sofia palaces, and of course the Blue Mosque, the prime mosque in Turkey.

24

May-July 2010

Bring back only love “Go to Turkey and bring back only love!” says M. Hayri Erol, Turkish ambassador to Oman in a brief tete-a-tete with Footprints. Just visit Turkey and you will be hooked for life, the ambassador enthused, adding that the country had it all. Turkey is a Mecca of tradition and culture, which makes it a perfect vacation spot for any lover of history and culture. “You visit once and I guarantee that you will totally fall in love with Turkey and you will want to visit it again and again!”

early 70s, when I had a small stint as a tour guide, we were wishing the country clocked 500,000 visitors.”

Today, the situation is a far cry from that earlier scene, where there are around 30 million visitors (in a year).

“Turkey had around 26 million tourists in 2009, drawing an income of $21billion.

Turkey is all set to woo in more tourists and promote tourism at the highest level today. We have around 2500 hotels (tourism ministry registered ones) and around 560,000 beds to be sold,” Erol said, adding that Turkey is the only

Er

ol’s favourite spot in Turkey

While he loves Bodrum, he also has plenty

3.5percent in tourism income last year,

remains Bodrum, a lively, popular holiday

of good words for Ankara, the capital of

while the global depression caused a

resort on the Aegean Sea, renowned

Turkey and the country’s second largest

dent worldwide.

in antiquity under its ancient name,

city after Istanbul. “I can’t ignore Ankara

From Oman, there were about 5904

Halicarnassus. “Bodrum is a place where

because I was born there. It is more of a

visitors to Turkey in 2008 and slightly

you can relax, rest and stay. Of course,

formal city because of the parliament and

above 6000 in 2009. “With the flight

there are richer places in Turkey, but I am

heads of state residing there. You will

services adding on one more flight every

particularly fond of Bodrum,” Erol said.

find many interesting museums and sites

week, we hope to see more visitors this

Bodrum has all the aspects that appeal

in Ankara. There is also a skiing centre

year,” the ambassador said, adding that

to a broad range of interests: the sun-

and it has a fine nightlife!” Erol said.

they were most willing to share their

worshipper, the devotee of the deep,

While tourists flock by the millions to

experiences with Oman. “The Sultanate

the avid sailor, the disco fan and the

Turkey today, there was a time when

is a beautiful and rich country for tourists

shopping junkie, all can engage in their

it was hard to draw more than several

and it will be a much sought after

favoured activities here.

hundred thousands of visitors. “In the

destination too!”

country which has realised a growth of

May-July 2010

25

Globe-Trail

Upyo

u go

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May-July 2010

!

Around 1000 people make it to the top every year.

It can be a three days two nights affair, although some can do it in two days one night too.

Well, how adventurous are you?

Mount Everest, Mount Kilimanjaro or are you looking for a new climbing destination?

If you are, head right to Mount Kinabalu in Malaysian Borneo, at the satisfying altitude of 4096 metres, and a well-maintained path running all the way to the summit!

May-July May-July 2010 2010

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Globe-Trail

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May-July 2010

Th

e comforting factor is Mt

Kinabalu is one of very few peaks at this altitude, which can be reached without any specialised climbing gear or actual

Interesting Facts about Mount Kinabalu

climbing as such. There are no extremely hazardous areas on the marked route

Mount Kinabalu is considered to be the

and thus, the only challenge you face is

highest mountain in South East Asia

the limit of your endurance with failure

There are two theories about the origin

the only real fear.

of the name Kinabalu. The first is that Kinabalu stands for ‘Chinese widow’

Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain

Mt Kinabalu summit is usually reached in

on the island of Borneo. The summit

with Kina being a corruption of China

time to view the sunrise, before returning

Low’s Peak has a height of 4.095 metres

and Balu being a commonly-used term

to Laban Rata for breakfast.

for widow in the local languages.

(13.435 feet) and is the third tallest in South

The first person to climb the mountain

East Asia. Low’s Peak can be relatively

Mount Kinabalu area is well-known

easily climbed by a person with basic

was Sir Hugh Low, a British colonial

worldwide for its tremendous botanical

fitness and requires no mountaineering

officer, in 1851. The indigenous peoples

and

biodiversity;

equipment, but other peaks along the

of Sabah didn’t climb the mountain to

species which are found only within

massif require rock climbing skills. It is

the top because they believed that it was

Kinabalu Park and are do not grow

really worth a visit, when you stand there

sacred and home to mountain spirits.

anywhere else in the world. The area has

at the highest summit, you can see the

Every year Mount Kinabalu is the scene

one of the world’s richest orchid floras

splendour of Sabah in all directions.

of a ‘climbathon’ where very fit men and

with over 800 species, over 600 species

women run up and down the mountain.

of ferns (more than the whole of Africa’s Most people prefer to make this a three

The record for the men is held by Ricardo

500 species) of which 50 are found

days two nights affair, although some

Mejia from Mexico in a time of two hours

nowhere else.

and 37 minutes. The fastest woman so

biological

species

can do it in two days a night. The eight-

far is Anna Pichrtova from the Czech

kilometre climb generally starts from the

So, pack up your baggage, pick up

Timpohon Gate near park headquarters

the mountain trail and up you go!

(1800m), with an overnight stay at one of

Don’t forget your cameras… maybe

the guest houses at Laban Rata (3273m),

you

before pushing on to the summit early

pitcher plant you will see enroute!

could

capture

that

Republic.

gigantic

next morning.

THINGS TO TAKE: Rain coat Your favourite energy food Suitable walking shoes Warm clothing (something you can layer as you go up and cold and down and hot) Camera plus plenty of battery power and memory Torch light, preferably a head light when you’re scampering up the mountain in the dark Spare batteries, you’ll need your torch for about three or so hours on the walk alone Medications if any

May-July 2010

29

Globe-Trail

Ko

ta Kinabalu: a medley of

Here are some places you can visit in Kota Kinabalu:

natural and cultural attractions (It is located at latitude 5.98333° and

Take a walking trail through the botanical

longitude 116.06667°)

park of Lok Kawi Wildlife Park, which Kota Kinabalu, formerly Jesselton, and

is the largest natural reserve in Kota

affectionately called KK, is the capital of

Kinabalu, located on the Penampang–

Sabah, east Malaysia, on the island of

Papar Road. The park consists of a

Borneo; it is also the capital of the West

zoological and botanical garden, and

Coast Division of Sabah. It is located

features several wildlife creatures like

at

Pygmy elephants, Orangutans, Malayan

latitude

5.98333°

and

longitude

116.06667°. Facing the South China Sea

tigers and Proboscis monkeys.

and Tunku Abdul Rahman Park on one side, and with the mighty Mount Kinabalu

The KK is Malaysia’s only town with a

in the background, Kota Kinabalu sprawls

nature reserve within its boundaries, the

for kilometers along the coast and inland.

Likas Bird Sanctuary. Though birds are

Located on the west coast of “the Land

not overly active during the day, this is

below the Wind”, under the watchful eye

a quiet retreat and a stroll over board-

of majestic Mount Kinabalu, and on the

walks and along paths is very pleasant.

fringes of the South China Sea, Kota Kinabalu is the bustling and colourful

You can also opt for a relaxing traditional

gateway to Sabah.

Ka’andaman or aroma massage, or indulge in a foot reflexology session at

If you want to switch between a peaceful,

the Ka’andaman Healing Garden located

laid back nature getaway and a bustling

in the Kadazandusun Cultural Village.

commercial city, then Kota Kinabalu is the place to be! It is a relatively quiet

Located approximately 35 kilometers

and less-crowded Malaysian city that

from the town center is the Kipandi

features some nice shopping attractions

Butterfly Park. The scenic attraction is

and is surrounded by several lush natural

encircled by the Crocker Range hills and

reserves.

features hundreds of species of rare and

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colourful butterflies.

30

May-July 2010

Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine National Park is located just 3 to 8kms off Kota Kinabalu shore and consists of five islands, namely Gaya, Mamutik, Manukan, Sapi and Sulug. It is a favourite place to go to for picnickers, divers and nature lovers. The park offers ample space to try water sports and you can also enjoy and adventurous jungle trek to see the flora and fauna at namely, Gaya, Manukan and Sapi islands.

For more information about these places of interest, please contact Sabah Tourism at tel: 088 212121 or 232121

and dining hub of Kota Kinabalu - The Waterfront, located at Jalan Tun Fuad.

Signal Hill is one of the best places to get a good view of KK. The hill is in a natural

Sabah State Museum is the largest

area where one can peacefully enjoy the

museum

beautiful skyline of the city with a view

thousands of artifacts, cultural objects,

that extends to the islands.

memoirs and quirky relics.

The city has lots of monuments. You can

There are five major shopping complexes

visit the Atkinson Clock at Jalan Tunku,

in KK: Centrepoint, Wisma Merdeka,

a monument built in 1902 to honor

Wawasan Plaza, Karamunsing Complex

Francis George Atkinson, the first district

and KK Plaza. The handicrafts market

officer of Kota Kinabalu, the Sabah State

is the bargain shopping haunt of Kota

Mosque, a sacred edifice that celebrates

Kinabalu visitors. You can pick up

Islamic architectural craftsmanship with

inexpensive souvenirs and several other

its striking minarets.

interesting objects.

in

Kota

Kinabalu

housing

REACHING THERE:

At night, you can visit the entertainment

Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA) (ICAO Code : WBKK) provides flights linking the city with other domestic and international destinations. It is a secondary hub for Malaysia Airlines and Air Asia and it consists of two terminals. It is the second busiest airport in Malaysia after Kuala Lumpur International Airport and it on of the main gateways into Sabah and East Malaysia.

From Oman: Malaysia Airlines – Flies via Dubai to Kuala Lumpur (KL). GSA – National Travel & Tourism: +968 24660310; Fax: +968 24566125, Email: mhmuscat@ gmail.com, Oman Air – direct non-stop flights to KL, (Office in Muscat – +968 24707222), Qatar Airways – via Doha to KL - +968 24771900, Emirates – via Dubai - +968 24404400, Etihad Airways – via Abu Dhabi – +968 24823500

Pusat Kraftangan or better known as the Filipino Market is found along the seafront of KK - a curious building with a series of steep gabled roofs and door underneath each. Here you find trinkets and souvenirs, mostly produced in neighbouring countires, at bargain prices. For those who are into pearls and know how to categorise them, this is the place to go!

May-July 2010

31

Globe-Trail

Driving Green

By John Lee

32

May-July 2010

At less than 500km from top to toe, Ireland is ideal for those who like hopping in a car and straying off the beaten path. In fact, straying is something many drivers end up doing here: leaving the network of motorways and main thoroughfares, you’ll find a tangle of backcountry roads where even the street signs (or lack thereof) can be confusing.

May-July 2010

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Globe-Trail

34

May-July 2010

and continued southwestwards to Cork, a two-hour, 125km jaunt mostly along the N25 main road. No need to stop for a snack, I was soon pulling into the onetime European Capital of Culture for an afternoon stroll on both sides of the River

No

Lee (no relation, apparently).

Wandering the labyrinthine lanes of

t to worry: the rewards

Cork’s Shandon area, I stopped in

of driving here make occasional wrong

at tiny Linehan’s Sweets for some

turns a highly worthwhile price. Arm

handmade sour apple candies and

yourself with plenty of time, a good

a chat with the twinkle-eyed owner.

road map and a sense of adventure and

Talking is like breathing in Ireland and it

you’re in for a trip you’ll be talking about

doesn’t take much to trigger an epically

for years. Just don’t forget to pull over:

long conversation: if you’re asking for

stopping at sheep-strewn farms, cheery

directions, expect a circuitous ramble

stone villages and historic old towns is

with plenty of colourful anecdotes.

half the fun of any pan-Ireland odyssey.

Eventually

weaving

downhill

and

Starting my three-night trawl southwards

across the river, I hit the city center’s

from Dublin, I trundled into the wild,

bright-painted pubs and busker-lined

mist-covered Wicklow Mountains and

thoroughfares, all teeming with busy

their camera-hogging countryside vistas,

locals. Then, with my appetite suddenly

before rolling through the expansive

flickering to life, I hungrily circled the

greenery of sun-dappled Carlow and

covered English Market and was soon

Kilkenny counties. After a relaxing three-

feasting on flaky sausage rolls and sticky

hour, 160km drive, I pulled into a hotel in

fruit buns.

the southeast port of Waterford.

After

catching

an

excellent

early

Ireland’s oldest town was founded by

evening show at the town’s Everyman

8th-century Vikings and is a handy en

Palace Theatre and enjoying a deep,

route pit spot. Stretching my legs on the

Guinness-aided sleepover at my hotel, I

cobbled, shop-lined streets alongside the

was back on the road the next day for

River Suir, I perused the hulking medieval

a quick hop north to one of Ireland’s

Reginald’s Tower, then dropped into

biggest attractions. Blarney Castle is a

Waterford Treasures. An intriguing, high-

handsome medieval pile set in verdant,

tech museum, it brings to life the area’s

broccoli-green countryside. But the tour

rich past – including a gaggle of chatty

parties roll in for just one thing: to climb

holographic Viking heads.

the battlements, kiss the Blarney Stone and get the “gift of the gab.”

Up early the next morning for a giant Irish breakfast (with artery-clogging blood

Laying on my back and craning to peck

pudding), I squeezed gingerly into the car

the greasy-looking rock, I was soon back on the north-bound route. A threehour weave, mostly on the N20, N18 and N6 main roads, stretched through countryside

crisscrossed

with

stone

walls and striped with gorse and heather.

After lunch in Limerick (another good stopover if you want to extend your stay), I continued to one of the country’s favourite destinations.

May-July 2010

35

Globe-Trail

Cork City at night.

Photographer:Andrew Bradley Courtesy of Tourism Ireland

Talking is like breathing in Ireland and it doesn’t take much to trigger an epically long conversation: if you’re asking for directions, expect a circuitous ramble with plenty of colourful anecdotes

36

May-July 2010

Arguably

Ireland’s

pub

capital

and dripping with ancient fishing village charm, Galway faces down the windwhipping Atlantic with a lively and welcoming spirit. And since driving was over for the day on my visit, it was time to taste test that famous pub provenance on the gently curving High Street, lined

Sleeping:

with bars like a row of draft beer taps.

•Belfry

The clamorous, maze-like Front Door,

belfryhotel.ie;

a multi-level tavern of dark nooks and

doubles from US$140).

glowing hearths, provided a fortifying

•Victoria House Hotel, Cork (www.

pint of Murphy’s that slid down like a

thevictoriahotel.com;

velvet thick-shake. Merrily weaving up to

8788; doubles from $140).

the more intimate Tig Cóilí bar, I found a

•Spanish Arch Hotel, Galway (www.

clutch of smiling musicians stamping out

spanisharchhotel.ie;

a jig on accordions and penny whistles.

doubles from $125).

Locating a wobbly corner table among

Eating and drinking:

the throng, I sipped a smooth Bushmills

•Bodega Restaurant, Waterford (www.

whiskey and unfurled my dog-eared

bodegawaterford.com; mains from $12)

map. I could easily be in Dublin by

•English

noon tomorrow, but the wildly beautiful

corkenglishmarket.ie; sandwiches and

countryside of Sligo and Mayo was also

baked goods from $2.50)

just a short hop away…

•Front Door, Galway (www.frontdoorpub.

Hotel,

Waterford

(www.

011-353-51-844-800;

011-353-21-427-

011-91-569-600;

Market,

Cork

(www.

com; mains from $9) THE FACTS

Best attractions:

For a detailed route planner, click on

•Watford Treasures, Waterford (www.

www.aaroadwatch.ie. For general visitor

waterfordtreasures.com)

information, check www.discoverireland.

•Blarney

com.

blarneycastle.ie)

Castle,

near

Cork

(www.

John Lee’s work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times, London’s Observer, The Daily Telegraph and Guardian Weekly, among other publications.

May-July 2010

37

WHAT WAS THAT…

By Bikram Vohra

When in Rome…

Yes, the old adage has been so oft

Half these scenarios will happen to you

One of the kids will fall ill the morning

repeated that you may even choke

when you go on vacation.

you have to go on the safari/jamboree/ adventure/tour and the fever will rise to

on it. But, truth is that you need to get into the local swing to get the

The airline computer will be ‘down’

102 degrees and doctors will be called

local feel when you are out at a

when you call for confirming the

and by the time the tour returns the

new town.

reservation 72 hours before take off like

kid will be back to normal and full of

It would do you well if you go the

the air hostess told you and then when

beans(which you will not) and there will

local way, but most of the time

you reach the airport you’ll find the

be no refund on the price of the special

you may not be able to hit it off

same computer that keeps going down

tour.

with the locals (or the lissome

suddenly went up and knocked your

local lass), or you simply may not

name off the flipping list so now you are

The one day you have to visit a famous

be able to break the language

stuck at the airport with two kids and a

museum, site, shop, place of tourist

barrier. But, some cities offer tours

wife who knows whose fault it is.

interest it will be closed. Murphy’s law having a blast.

conducted by local volunteers who can give you an entirely different

One aunt at the flipping family gathering

side of the city and life there.

will take objection to the gift you bought

The credit card machine will reject your

her because she will recognise it for the

card(or if it is in particularly malevolent

Produce and eat…

giveaway it is and be so offended that

mood swallow it)

Well, not exactly, but sometimes,

you will have to snivel and grovel and

where you don’t know the language,

self catering can help you save

try and make up for it and she will play

anyone and are short of cash and will

some money and it will also

hard to get.

have to put things you bought back on

give you the chance to do some

in a foreign country

the shelf.

off-the-beat sightseeing. Is it

38 38

imperative that you have to eat

If you are shopping for the wife and

at a fancy restaurant even when

children (you silly brave nit) you will

you are on a tour? Why not taste

spend money on wrong sizes, wrong

the local samples or put together

colours, wrong designs and the wrong

a picnic breakfast or lunch at a

brand name and you will be told what

fraction of the cost of eating at a

addlepated twerp you are and how could

restaurant?

you?

Say ‘yes’ to local offers…

The ocean view room will allow you a slice of water if you lean 98 degrees out of the

Get into the local groove and open

balcony and stretch while someone holds

the window on how the locals live.

onto your ankles. You will buy something

You might even stay as a paying

that looks like a bargain that will later

guest at one of the locals not-so-

prove beyond any doubt that you are Mr

humble abode…What say you?

Gullible 2010 because it won’t work.

MayMay-July 2010 2010

A VACATION?

You will receive a disturbing phone call from your secretary or colleague to tell you that office politics is on a roll and the grapevine is indicating that you might be in a uh oh position. Incredibly, this always happens when you are on vacation and guarantees to take the fun out of the relaxation because now you have to worry about who is stabbing you in the back. You will spend the rest of your holiday worry, making mobile calls, sending emails checking up who is taking part in the conspiracy against you.

Your family will run up a small fortune in ‘room service’ and you will lose your temper and your wife will lose her temper because you lost yours and she’ll say it is a holiday and you’ll say yes, but eleven hamburgers and chips and kids will howl and you will be made to feel like a skinflint.

The neighbours or friends back home will call you to tell you that some funny goings on have been noticed at your residence and the houseboy/housemaid could be up to something and there seems to be a leak in the waterpipe or the front gate looks like it has been broken into...gee, thanks guys, just what we need when we are 5000 miles away.

May-July 2010

39

Oman -Trail

Salalah calling

40

May-July 2010

Salalah is unique from the rest of Arabia since it enjoys the monsoons, and remains cool, wet, green, and misty between June and September when the rest of Arabia is at its hottest.

During the khareef season, incidentally the peak tourist season, the population of Salalah nearly doubles. Many popular fairs like the fair in Ittin takes place during this time

May-July 2010

41

Oman -Trail

We

had hit an atypical tourist

trail in Salalah when our Dhofari friend suddenly stops in the middle of the track and asks us to politely step down.

We all clamber out of the 4WD and our friend tells us that we are all about to witness a phenomenon. Our eyes scoured the plain desert area and back at our friend. Nothing was happening anywhere. Not even a grain of sand was out of place.

Our friend puts the car in neutral on that little incline, hands us the four-wheeler’s key and asks us to wait and watch. What was happening, we wondered, curiosity pinching us awake from that usual holiday numbness. Then we saw the vehicle suddenly beginning to roll …not downhill though. The nearly 2200kgs four-wheeler began to slowly move uphill. Our Dhofari friend takes his hands off the wheel in a typical, ‘look ma, no hands’ kind of approach and we watch amazed as the vehicle gained momentum and began to move at around 50kms per hour.

Some of us bent down to see if there was something pulling the vehicle from beneath…others stood amazed, while the kids applauded. It was a spectacle worthy of a second round of applause and all of us obliged.

We are not making this up! You have to see it to believe it! Wish Newton was alive;

he would have given us a hint on how the natural laws of physics were being defied at such a non-descriptive spot.

This popular, but not too advertised, antigravity spot in Salalah (near Tawi Attar) is one of the few spots of its kind in the world.

This little ‘magnetic mountain’ exemplifies Salalah – unique and now very popular, but intriguing. You can’t seem to get enough of the wonders that abound in this land that turns verdant during the special Khareef season, from mid-June to September.

The route to the ‘magic’ spot may not be that well defined, but any resident can help you find it. Ideally, this spot, which defies gravity, is on the way towards Mirbat. Many swear by this anti-gravity spot and say that a first-time experience can sometimes make it feel a bit eerie.

If it was some place else, they would have connected it to some alien feature.

Unfortunately for those wanting to splash in some myths and fables, the truth runs dry: there are apparent scientific reasons behind this automatic movement. But, ideally, we leave it to you to visit and experience this unusual feature.

And Salalah is like that. The more you get to know the place, the more reasons you will have to marvel at its wonders. Hop on a bus from Muscat for an 11 hour drive to Salalah. If you fall asleep and wake up after 10 or 11 hours, you are going to get a shock of your life. You would remember sunny

and

sweltering

Muscat

and

suddenly you will find yourself engulfed in mist (mid-June to August end). Are you still in Oman, you’d wonder if you are a first-time visitor to Salalah?

42

May-July 2010

May-July 2010

43

Oman -Trail

Salalah is unique from the rest of Arabia since it enjoys the monsoons, and remains cool, wet, green, and misty between June and September when the rest of Arabia is at its hottest. During the khareef season, incidentally the peak tourist season, the population of Salalah nearly doubles. Many popular fairs like the fair in Ittin takes place during this time.

Among the many must-to-see spots is the Mughsail blowhole(s). Mughsail lies on a spectacular bay on the western side of Salalah. The magnificent white sand beach, which stretches for several kilometers, is outlined by sculptured cliffs and blowholes formed in the limestone rocks, where plumes of waters shoot up several metres.

At high tide, the sea bursts dramatically through the rock slabs jutting out from the cliffs revealing many blow holes, the largest of which are covered with metal grids. The view along the coast where the mountains meet the sea is spectacular.

The blowhole is a sight to see and also experience. When the tides are strong, the blowhole will erupt, sometimes spraying water up to a height of 30 to 100 feet. The Mughsail beach also offers an opportunity to pitch a tent or just play in the unspoilt beaches.

While walking beside the rock shelf you can enjoy listening to the sound of waves. Spending time in the beaches of Salalah can be a wonderful experience.

You can appreciate the beauty of nature in the beaches at Salalah.

The nearby Khawr Mughsail is also a perfect hub of the migratory birds like flamingos, pelicans and storks.

Watching these birds can be an enriching experience.

44

May-July 2010

REACHING THERE:

Getting to Salalah: By air: Getting to Salalah by air is an experience. This is probably the most convenient and the least time consuming way of reaching Salalah. The Salalah Airport caters to flights mainly to the city of Muscat. However international visitors can definitely reach Salalah by flight from Dubai. It also has flights to the neighbouring cities of Kuwait, Dubai and Doha. Getting to Salalah by flight from these cities is therefore not a hassle at all.

(Salalah Airport - Visit the official website http://www.omanairports.com) By bus: Getting to Salalah by bus is probably the most convenient way of reaching Salalah. Oman National Transport Corporation (ONTC) and other private lines offer regular bus services to and from Salalah

May-July 2010

45

Oman -Trail

Silence of the

By Najib Al Balushi

Her tiny lips parted, a look of mild surprise filled her innocent face, her eyes dilated with curiosity rather than fear…she was a picture of innocence, like a li’l lamb caught unawares (but not startled)…

And she was perched on top of the green, almost semi-still mountain, Jebel Al Akhdar. A sparkling ‘jewel’ above the green ‘jewel’! She was picture perfect!

46

May-July 2010

Jebels May-July 2010

47

Oman -Trail She

must

have

been

around

five, maybe six, maybe more, maybe

our rose fairy was missing) selling fruits

less…it did not matter. That flawless

and roses.

image of sheer innocence and purity on that silent craggy mountain top was

Tiny

an

Saiq, Al Ain, and abandoned Wadi bani

incongruence,

but

eye-catching

nevertheless.

villages

including

picturesque

Habib, dot the landscape and overlook Although we were in the splendour of

a spectacular vista of peaks, gorges and

She sat there for less than a moment, just

this rose garden, we still couldn’t forget

wadis.

enough time for the lensman to capture

the little fairy who had our hearts beating

her, before she got up and lightly padded

in tandem. But, soon all of us were

Jebel Akhdar has, over the years,

away into some of the mountain caverns.

marvelling at the sight and enjoying the

managed to pack culture, history and

A silent wind stirred from somewhere,

fragrance of the roses. There were several

nature within just a few square miles

flapped our hair, and followed this little

100s of them in this little fragrant arena.

of land. The temperature of this land is

girl’s trail, as silently as she had fled from

This area is renowned for its traditional

rather noticeably cooler than what is

the scene.

rose water extraction, which is distilled in

normal for sea level. During the winter,

the homes of the villagers.

the temperature hovers below zero

Was she real? Was she a figment of our

most nights. While in the summer, the

imagination? Must be real, because this

The varied topography of the mountains

temperature is 20 to 30 degrees below

photo (cover picture) looks real, doesn’t

provides different habitats to animals

what is normal for this type of region.

it?

and plants. The flora and fauna in the area have close links with those of the

Despite this, Jebel Akhdar remains a

We went trailing after her into the quiet

mountains of Iran and Baluchistan, and

popular tourist destination for day trips

cavernous area in the mountain where

woodlands of juniper are found in both,

and camping expeditions. The green

she had disappeared…she was nowhere

it is said.

mountain is a location that almost every

to be seen!

Omani citizen is familiar with.

This mountain range has long been

My friends and I followed a small trail

inhabited

to the right of the mountain path from

there on cliff faces or in caves are

where we had parked our 4WD. There

examples of rock art, some of which

was no sign of her. We slowly followed

is clearly many hundreds of years old.

by

people.

Here

and

this trail. And then before we realised that a pleasant aroma was wafting through

In the northern wadis, a string of villages

the air, we were suddenly swept into a

such as Bilad Sayt follow the course of

green minefield…exploding with bright

a spring line at the base of the north-

pink roses! Pink on green on a windswept

facing cliffs. Water from the springs is

mountain top!

used for the cultivation of many crops.

Such temperate crops as grapes, roses,

We were in one of the terraced rose

pomegranates, walnuts and apricots are

gardens of Jebel Akhdar, which was

all successfully grown. We were actually

nearly 3000 metres above sea level.

overwhelmed by the abundance of fruits.

Swept by the pink wave, it took us a

Outside the Jebel Al Akhdhar hotel

moment or two to catch our breath.

(which is known to offer a warm bed to tired travellers), we saw little children (but

That little, mysterious girl, who seemed to have disappeared into thin air, had somehow led us to this pool of gorgeous bright pink roses.

48

May-July 2010

May-July 2010

49

Oman -Trail

We

explored

the

whole

area,

bumping into some of the mountain folks as well as their children. But, we could not find our little angel on the rock.

As night fell, we pitched our tent on a flat land at the top. There are a lot of camp sites and we could see other nature lovers like us enjoying the silence of the mountain.

But, neither the nights, nor the silence is eerie. The stillness had a resounding calming effect in us; the poets among us began to quietly compose couplets, the philosophers among us pondered about life in general… Silence has that hush hush quality that sets about a feeling of reverence and love for all things nature.

As the stars sparkled and spangled above us, we warmed ourselves around a fire, our hearts springing with hope eternal for a new dawn, a new beginning…

In the misty morning when we woke up, an image still played in front of us, in our eyes, in our hearts…A little angel perched on a mountain top. We desperately wanted to see her again, just once and slowly we packed and began the trail down, keeping our 4WD windows down, our eyes scouring the green and brown jebel landscape. But, the little one that stole our hearts was nowhere to be

REACHING THERE:

seen…

50

May-July 2010

Getting to Jebel Akhdar Jebel Akhdar Access to Jebel Akhdar is via the town of Birkat AlMawz; from the Birkat Al Mawz roundabout, take a right turn and then a left. A 36-kms stretch of winding road will lead you to the Jebel Akhdar hotel, which is a starting point to reach the Jebel Akhdar village, Diana’s point, Al Ayn etc.

May-July 2010

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Oman -Trail

52

May-July 2010

A desert Saga

A 1986 expedition by the Royal Geographical Society documented the diversity of the Sharqiyah Sands (Wahiba Sands) terrain, the flora and fauna there, noting the existence of 16,000 invertebrates as well as 200 species of other wildlife, including avifauna.

They also documented 150 species of native flora.

A 2010, mid-March expedition documented another fact with the help of around 150 homo sapiens: there is no challenge like a desert challenge! And if you have been there, done that, make sure that this trip would have wiped off the know-it-all smirk from many a know-it-all type.

For, you are going to sure know-it-all by the time you finish this off-the-beaten track (you call this a track?

Ideally, we would need a massive plough to get across it, or, can’t we just fly across?).

May-July 2010

53

Oman -Trail

We are not making mountains of the desert molehills. Some of them were real, but sandy, mountains. And others were unreal sandy monstrosities, at 90 degrees vertical angles, where our beat 4WDs literally had to clamber up sandy ladders sans rungs. No exaggeration! Our 4WDs seemed like gigantic four-legged spiders trying to race up these walls. And like in the famous legend of King Robert the Bruce of Scotland who was inspired by a spider, which tried and tried and tried and finally managed to climb up its silken thread to its web, these desert spiders, manned by these adventurers, emulated that hallowed spider, which was a symbol of hope and perseverance for King Bruce, and finally came out winners.

Each and every one of them!

The desert, as they say, is the great leveller. The king and the commoner, man and woman, the novice and the expert all become one when confronted by towering sands and near ‘quick’ and ‘sticky’ sands.

54

May-July 2010

May-July 2010

55

Oman -Trail Yes, the men were separated by the boys at times when sheer experience and pure expertise had the manly ones from the desert-crossing organisers tear up some of the sand mountains as though they were cardboard sheets.

For some, who knew the Sharqiyah sands like the back of their palms, rescuing mammoth 4WDs in tire and chassis deep sands and towing these same behemoths for kilometers at a stretch under the skinburning sweltering sky, it was child’s play, except that it is not and never will be! As for those who took the challenge by its horns, they had a mouthful to say before we all parted ways:

Authentic Omani Shuwa, the Guide way Guests gets a taste of traditional Shuwa, a typical Omani delicacy, marinated in a mix of unique spices and herbs.

Ghalib Al Hosni (above), the master chef, ensures the taste remains authentic.

56

May-July 2010

Johan Joubert (six years in Oman, but first desert crossing experience): Stars,

incredible,

unbelievable

and

countless number of stars stare down at us! We don’t get to see that in the city.

The

Sharqiyah

crossing

the

sands desert,

challenges…are

way

experiences… the

incredible

beyond

my

imagination. Next time, I will take my mother!

Fred Hahn (with twin kids Charlotte and James) Crossing Sharqiya Sands…it is an experience not to be missed at all. With correct supervision and guidance, it is a very safe adventure. The trip has been all sorts of entertainment for my family from basic to the height of adventure. Everyone should do it, the young old -- at least once in their lives!

Najeeb Al Zedjali (support crew) Last nine years I have been part of the desert crossing and I love it every time. The desert is where you can get away from it all, no mobile phones, no troubles…far from the madding crowd! Our team gave the visitors a slice of the quintessential Omani cuisine! You can eat a burger anywhere, but Omani shuwa? Your wish is my command!

Paul Battelu (support crew) This is an experience of a lifetime! It is like conquering the nature. You get to experience the sand dunes at its best. And yes, it is a great learning experience. You cannot generalise one trip with another. Every single crossing is unique and different, just like the desert, alive and moving!

Paul and Najeeb May-July 2010

57

Oman -Trail

Ian Duncan and wife (inset) This is one of the best experiences I have ever had! Awesome and breathtaking!

Jon Rose and Nancy Kennils I am very possessive and protective of Oman’s tranquil and unadulterated beauty. In my heart I would say let Oman remain a hidden corner and let no one ever discover it. Let commercialism never touch these dunes. Let it remain pure and pristine and a wellkept secret as it is now. Let us not leave any carbon footprints here.

Vincent This is my first Sharqiya Sands crossing trip and I wanted to capture the essence of it and here I am with my video camera. I am carrying it in my heart too. It is a great experience, exhilarating, tiring, challenging and fulfilling!

Call me if you need a video!

58

May-July 2010

REACHING THERE:

Sharqiyah sands To get to the edge of the Sharqiyah Sands by public transport, take a Muscat–Sur bus and get dropped at AlQabil Rest House.

The sands run parallel to the Muscat–Sur highway and the easiest access into the sands (with your own vehicle) is at Al-Mintrib.

(The Guide tourism company took the SAGO (South African Group of Oman) team on a challenging but exhilarating desert trip, recently).

May-July 2010

59

Celebrity Imprint

Diana’s

own lookout 60

May-July 2010

Oman’s own green mountain has a special place dedicated to the memory of a dear departed princess.

In the Jebel Akhdar, or Green Mountain, which is part of the Hajjar range, there is a spot called ‘Diana’s Point’. It seems that the late Princess Diana once camped here, some 6000 feet up. The views opening up on all sides of this point are truly spectacular.

Princess Diana had visited the place in the mid-eighties. She was flown in by helicopter to be shown the terraces from this location, it is said.

Al Ayn – meaning spring or garden – is a village, which is a short distance away. If you are on the jebel, you will find yourselves surrounded by a flourish of colour and every shade of green, plus terraced falajs, or irrigation system, all of which will make the small villages positively blossom. You will find everything from pomegranates and peaches to sweet-smelling pink rose bushes.

May-July 2010

61

Postcard

visit Oman

14 times in 16 years Love makes people do many things. It makes the world go around. For Prof (Dr) Helmut Helwig and his wife, Sylvia, love made them fly all the way from Germany to Oman, not just once, twice or thrice, but 14 times in a span of 16 years.

In

62

May-July 2010

the enormous changes the country has had in the last decade. “We were bowled over by the country in our first visit in 1994 itself. We were looking for an attractive holiday destination and we looked up lots of travel literature and then finally homed in

short, they visited Oman

on this secret corner. We were not wrong

14 times since their first visit in 1994.

in our choice!� Dr Helmut and Sylia tell

Smitten by Oman and its people from the

Footprints in the splendour of the grand

moment they set foot here, theirs became

lobby of Al Bustan Palace hotel, their

a love affair that remains intact, despite

favourite hotel in Oman.

“We stayed for a week at Al Bustan.

We realised that Oman was a cultural destination; it had proud but at the same

and tradition of the Omani people. In

time down-to-earth and gentle mannered

this respect we enjoyed the visit to the

people who were not too busy for guests

Heritage

like us. “We went around, toured Nizwa

Festival in 2003,” Dr Helmut said,

and went up Jebel Shams in a small bus.

reminiscing the moments of the years

Most of the general roads were small

past.

Village

during

the

Muscat

and there was very little traffic (a stark contrast to the scene today)! That was

“We were fascinated by the extraordinary

the beginning and we returned year after

hospitality and the unique mixture of a

Dr Helmut also made three formal visits to

year till 2006.”

contrasting

long-standing

Oman, the first in 1995, where he visited

traditions, and a high-speed economic

the Royal Hospital to give a lecture on

Because of health problems, the couple

progress. We were and still are highly

bacterial meningitis as invited speaker

did not come to Oman in the years

impressed by the achievements and

and guest of the late Professor (Dr)

between 2007 and 2009.

changes from medieval structures to

Elbualy and visited the pediatric ICU of

modern lifestyle, made possible by His

the SQU hospital. In 1994 and 2001, he

“In our first visit we were prepared to

Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said and

attended the Child Health Conferences.

come to a wealthy oil producing state with

his government as well as the growing

high living standards. We were surprised

prosperity due to development of natural

Today, Oman has become a second

to learn that traditional structures are

resources.”

home for them. “We feel at home here at

geography,

Al Bustan. We will come back as long as

cultivated with great efforts as well as health care and social security for

This year also they approached the Seeb

we can. We pray and hope Oman remains

everyone,” Dr Helmut said.

International Airport (Muscat International

as it is now. Let modernity not take away

Airport) like they have done so many years

its traditionality. Stay Omani always!”

During the 14 (including the current one)

in the past. “We went through the entry

visits, they learnt a lot about the country.

formalities, as usual, in a breeze. The

However, their current visit gave them

“It has a huge extension to very different

flower-decked roads, brightly illuminated

some new and changing experiences:

regions from the Batinah coast in the

at night all seemed like the whole country

“Road

north to the Dhofar in the south, from the

and it’s people were welcoming us. Even

attractions growing. But, traffic has

lovely and smooth coast to the Sharqiyah

with the enormous risen traffic we had no

become more intense and dangerous.

desert, the wadis, and the capital area,

problems in finding our way to Al Bustan

“We also feel that some aspects of the

to mention only a few. To understand

(40 kms).”

hospitality has been reduced due to

the influence of the enormous changes

Dr Helmut and his wife usually stay

growing Omanisation. The quality of

to the population since 1970, one needs

at familiar places and plan individual

goods have lowered. Prices are rising

to understand the history, heritage,

day-tours returning to their hotel in the

and value for money reduced...”

evening, as they do not like to change

But, that was not stopping them from

places too often.

coming again, next time. Love is blind!

system

growing,

tourism

“And, when we arrive at familiar hotels, restaurants, or shops we are mostly

What caught their attention:

welcomed and recognised by the staff as

•Safe country, easy to mingle

old friends.”

•Friendly and beautiful people •Silent, clean and peaceful •People speak English (we made friends with an Omani tour guide who spoke very good English) •Antique silver jewellery (disappearing slowly) What they did not like: •Too many constructions (at the beach sides) •Lack

of

bookshops/international

publications •Increasing traffic May-July 2010

63

2nd Asian

Beach Games Muscat 2010 From 8-16 December 2010 the shores of Oman will come alive with beach sporting action! 45 National Olympic Committees from across Asia will send their athletes to compete in this celebration of sporting excellence. Hosted on the beaches of Muscat and Al-Musannah, the Games will represent the largest multi-sport event to ever come to Oman.

Sa

nctioned

the

Olympic

THE VENUES Al-Musannah Sports City

Council of Asia, the Games are to be

At the heart of the 2nd Asian Beach

held every two years, with the first edition

Games Muscat 2010 lies the one-million

Information Technology Control Centre,

hosted by Bali, Indonesia, October 18 to

sq m Al-Musannah Sports City. The

and

26, 2008.

purpose built facility is located 125km

enabling media to share the beach action

north of Muscat and features a four-star

with the world.

International

Broadcast

Centre

Muscat was chosen as the second host

hotel, serviced apartments, an events

for the Games because of its spectacular

plaza, the Athletes’ Village, a range of

Muscat

beaches, warm hospitable people, and

retail and restaurant facilities, and a

Various local beaches in the Muscat

the commitment by the Sultanate to

50-berth marina. In addition, MABGOC

City area will host competition venues.

promote sports, active lifestyle and youth

will provide a hub for the Games to be

Additionally,

seen internationally with the construction

venues showcasing cultural events and

of

activities will be located in Muscat.

development.

The 14 sports •Beach Handball •Beach Kabaddi •Beach Sepaktakraw •Beach Soccer •Beach Volleyball •Beach Waterpolo •Beach Woodball •Bodybuilding •Jetski Sport •Marathon Swimming •Sailing •Tent Pegging •Triathlon •Waterski 64

by

May-July 2010

the

Games

Command

Centre,

various

non-competition

COME AND ENJOY The 2nd Asian Beach Games Muscat 2010 is not just for the athletes!

TOGETHER WE SHINE

The Games also welcome local and

With the vision to proudly host a world-

international spectators to celebrate

class Games that will position Oman

in the nine-days of sporting action. A

as

range of entertaining cultural events,

and uniquely hospitable part of Asia,

activities and sight-seeing opportunities

and define Oman as a host for future

for visitors are endless giving you lots of

international events, the Muscat Asian

reasons to stay in Oman even after the

Beach Games Organising Committee

closing ceremony.

has been tireless in its preparations.

a

progressive,

outward

looking

Since being awarded the Games in 2007,

MEET THE MASCOTS

the

Three unique animals from Oman have

included various milestones including

been chosen to represent the Games.

test-events,

The Green Turtle, Houbara and Tahr

and day-to-day coordination with the

represent the sea, the sky and the lands

Olympic Council of Asia to ensure the

of Oman, respectively. The mascots will

highest Games-standards are met. We

be used to generate excitement in the

invite you to attend the 2nd Asian Beach

Committee’s

preparations

international

have

promotions,

Muscat was chosen as the 2nd host for the Games because of its spectacular beaches, warm hospitable people, and the commitment by the Sultanate to promote sports, active lifestyle and youth development

Games Muscat 2010 where Together We Shine!

THE LEGACY OF THE GAMES Legacy is widely considered as one of the most valuable success indicators of hosting major events for any host country. Tourism, economic positioning, transfer of knowledge, and the raising Games both locally and internationally

of national spirit are just a few of the

and

benefits that resonate in a host city and

over

the

coming

months

the

community will have the opportunity to meet the mascots at special events.

country for many years after the event. www.muscat2010.org.om May-July 2010

65

Foot forward

I read a book

66

May-July 2010

I read a book’ themed fashion show saw 12 local amateur

found in books, demonstrating the many benefits of reading

designers showcase their talent at Qurum City Centre

through unique designs and styles. In addition to getting up-

recently. Fashion show was hosted by Layali Al Asalah in

to-date with the latest fashion trends, spectators also learnt

partnership with City Centre . It was a fashion show, which

about the many local libraries around the city making the

added glamour and glitz to the imagination and wisdom

power of books available to one and all, old and young.

May-July 2010

67

Foot forward

Galeries Lafayette

The legendary French style, Galeries Lafayette, introduced an extravagant fashion show that showcased the world’s latest in the fashion industry last month in Dubai.

The fashion show combined the latest in modern architecture and fashion with a wide range of shopping and exclusive international and French brands such as Maje, Amal Azhari,

68

Burberry, Diesel, Yrusha, See by Chloé, Tara Jarmon, Antik

Rene Derhy, Marithe+Francois Girbaud and Comptoir des

Batik, Sprinkles, Grand Optics, Celyn B – Elizabetha Franchi,

Cotonniers, and it will be a testament to Galeries Lafayette’s

Balmain, , Sandro, Zadig et Voltaire, Athe by Vanessa Bruno,

constant evolution and innovation in lifestyle shopping.

May-July 2010

May-July 2010

69

Foot forward

Dubai Fashion Week

A

week-long

fashion

extravaganza

came to end with Indian fashion icon, Sabyasachi, presenting a spectacular grand finale show at Dubai Fashion Week. Held at the iconic Jumeirah Emirates Towers, the Autumn/Winter 2010 season marked Dubai Fashion Week’s most successful show with 45 local, regional and international designers wowing the audience as models took to the catwalk to showcase the season’s trends. The five-day event attracted over 25,000 guests from across the globe to attend the event with Indian Bollywood celebrities like Kabir and Pooja Bedi, Mugda Gose, Kalpana Iyer, Ali Zafar and international football star Abel Faisal Xavier and Italian jazz singer Cecilia were seen at the front rows or on the catwalk during the different shows.

70

May-July May 20102010

May-July 2010

71

Foot forward

72

May-July 2010

Souq-Trail

Traditional flavour at

Muttrah souq The flavour of the most famous bazaar in Oman is one of simple tradition.

Muttrah souq, which is located behind the Muttrah Corniche, offers a mix of old and new, sights and sounds and fragrances in abundance.

No tour of any country is complete without visiting its well-known marketplaces or souqs. So, a tourist to Oman might as well enjoy many hours of shopping or merely browsing or walking through the labyrinth of alleyways and scores of shops selling the best-known souvenir items Oman has to offer.

The Muttrah souq can offer the latest in Omani gold and silver jewellery, traditional handicrafts, souvenirs, Bedouin jewellery, antiques and perfumes, frankincense, myrrh, spices and large cooking pots.

Visitors can also buy carved handmade silver khanjars, rose water sprinklers, dallas (Omani coffee pots), incense burners, carpets, wooden carvings etc.

Not only are the items original, there is a traditional flavour that quite befits a tourism spot.

May-July 2010

73

Information

Traveller’s guide Airlines Flight Information (24 hours): 24 519456 Aeroflot: 24 704455 Air Arabia 24 700828 Air France 24 562153 Air India 24 799801 Air New Zealand 24 700732 Biman Bangladesh Airlines 24 701128 British Airways 24 568777 Cathay Pacific 24 789818 Egypt Air 24 794113 Emirates Air 24 792222 Ethiopian Airlines 24 660313 Gulf Air (toll-free number) 800 72424 Indian Airlines 24 791914 Iran Air 24 787423 Japan Airlines 24 704455 Jazeera Airways 23 294848 Jet Airways 24 796680 Kenya Airways 24 660317 KLM 24 566737 Kuwait Airways 24 701262 LOT Polish Airlines 24 796387 Lufthansa 24 796692 Malaysian Airlines 24 560796 Middle East Airlines 24 796680 Oman Air 24 707222, 24519953 PIA 24 792471 Qatar Airways 24 771900 Qantas 24 559941 Royal Jordanian 24 796693 Saudi Arabian Airlines 24 789485 Singapore Airlines 24 791233 Sri Lankan Airlines 24 784545 Sudan Airways 24816565 Swiss Air 24 787416 Syrian Airways 24797567 Thai Airways 24 705934 Turkish Airlines 24 475030 Art galleries Al Madina Art Gallery Bait Muzna Gallery Omani Heritage Gallery Omani Society for Fine Arts Raj Relics 99329842 Yitti Art Gallery Bookshops Borders Family Bookshop, Qurm Madinat as Sultan Qaboos Turtles House of Prose (Used books) Cinemas Al Nasr Cinema Al Shatti Plaza

24691380 24739204 24696974 24694969 24564297

24558089 24564391 24600084 24696217 24564356

24831358 24693557

Markaz al Bahja Cinema Stars Cinema

24540855 24791641

Embassies and consulates Algeria 24 605593 Austria 24 793135 Bahrain 24 605074 Bangladesh 24 567379 Belgium 24 562033 Canada 24 788890 Chile 24 561977 China 24 696698 Colombia 24 816264 Cyprus 24 490200 Denmark 24 526000 Egypt 24 600411 Finland 24 701454 France 24 681800 Germany 24 832164 Greece 24 706648 Holland 24 603706 India 24 814120 Iran 24 696944 Iraq 24 604178 Ireland 24 797083 Italy 24 693727 Japan 24 601028 Jordan 24 692760 Korea 24 691490 Kuwait 24 699627 Lebanon 24 695844 Malaysia 24 698329 Mexico 24 561977 Morocco 24 696152 Mozambique 24 594207 Netherlands 24 603719 Norway 24 603706 Pakistan 24 603439 Palestine 24 601312 Philippines 24 605140 Portugal 24 561400 Qatar 24 691153 Russian Federation 24 602894 Rwanda 24 487978 Saudi Arabia 24 601744 Somalia 24 697977 South Africa 24 694793 Spain 24 691101 Sri Lanka 24 697841 Sudan 24 697875 Sweden 24 708693 Switzerland 24 568202 Syria 24 697904 Taiwan 24 605695 Tanzania 24 601174 Thailand 24 602684 Tunisia 24 603486 Turkey 24 697050 United Arab Emirates 24 600988 United Kingdom 24 609000

Uruguay USA Yemen Libraries Bibliothèque Française: British Council Knowledge and Learning Centre: Oman Chamber of Commerce and Industry: Public Technical Library Science: United States Information Service: Raspberry’s Books: Museums Bait Adam 99356676 Bait Al Baranda Bait Al Zubair Children’s Museum 24605368/9 Currency Museum Muscat gate Museum Nakhal Fort museum National Museum Natural History Museum Omani-French Museum Oman Heritage Museum Planetarium: Sayyid Faisal bin Ali Museum Salalah Museum Sohar fort Museum Sultan’s Armed Forces Museum Sur Maritime Museum

24 568202 24 643400 24 600815

24681874 24681000 24707684 24673111 24643400 95086074

24605033, 24714262 24736688

24641510 24739005 26781384 24701289 24641366 24736613 24600346 24675542 24641650 23294549 26844758 24588700 24541466

Special interest groups American Women’s Group 24594751 Environment Society of Oman 24482121 Historical Association of Oman 24563074 Horticultural Association 24605493 Indian Social Club 99322713 Muscat Amateur Theatre 24562511 Oman Bird Watching Camp 24695498 Omani Women Association 24602800 Royal Omani Amateur Radio Society 24600407 Woman’s Guild of Oman www.womensguildoman.org Taxis Al Dar Taxi Hello taxi Muscat Cab

24700555 24697997 96429096

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May-July 2010

77

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