Footprints Travel Magazine Aug-Oct 2010 by Black & White

Vol. 1, Issue 2 , August-October 2010, Winter Special

Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first premier travel magazine

Oman-Trail Meeting place of the Jinns Conference on Responsible Tourism in Destinations Asian Beach Games Oman visitors & more

Globe-Trail Pisa, Pizza & Pasta White lions of Al Ain Zanzibar: the ancient theatre of Africa Eid getaways & more

Once upon a time...

in Wukan August-October 2010

Readers Forum

Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s National Geographic I was pleasantly surprised to receive a copy of Footprints from a colleague of mine recently. I started flipping through the magazine from the first to the last page, and, for a moment thought I was looking at the National Geographic! It was only when I looked at the front page that I realised that it was our local â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;National Geographicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;! The magazine, with its well laid out pages and breathtaking photographs, is simply marvellous. If the first impression is anything to go by, the magazine will surely leave its â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;footprintsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for others to follow. Shreeraman, Muscat

A breath of fresh air Like Dr Rajiha Abdulamir Ali, tourism minister, had said in her introduction letter, your magazine is truly another first for Oman. While this publication maybe a feather in the cap for its publishers, for us it is a first breath of fresh air in the magazine segment in Oman. My only worry is whether you can continue to set the same standards, you have set in your first magazine, in forthcoming issues. Many start with a bang and end with a whimper! But, I am confident that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t happen with your magazine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; your tone, your style, your outlook is refreshingly different. All the best! Tarik. K, Al Khuwair

God bless Kenya

.S V I L ; Y HP S

I have been to Kenya nearly eight times in the last 14 years and the truth is, 4HNPJ VM [OL 4HHZHP

I will continue to do so. I hope I am blessed with longevity so much so that

4Ç¸Ç¸É&#x2022;Ç¸Č¨ ÉŹČ¨É&#x153;ČŁÉ&#x201E;É¤É&#x153; Č&#x192;É¤ČľÉ&#x153;É¤É&#x2018;Č? Č¨É&#x2022; ČľČ¨Č°Č? Ç¸ ÉşČ?ÇžÉ&#x2018;Ç¸ ÉŹČ¨É&#x153;ČŁÉ&#x201E;É¤É&#x153; É&#x2022;É&#x153;É&#x2018;Č¨É&#x2030;Č?É&#x2022; Ň&#x2C6; Ç¸Č˝É&#x201E;Č˝É´ČšÉ&#x201E;É¤É&#x2022;Ńą

I can visit this dark and magical country again and again and again. On two

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occasions I have seen the migrating wildebeest and like you have said in your magazine, it is indeed the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;greatest wildlife show on earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;! I will never tire of Kenya, its colourful people and its magnificent animals and undulating plains. It is a land blessed by the Gods and the more I travel there, the more I fall in love with it. God bless Kenya, God bless Africa!

0D\ -XO\

0D\ -XO\ 0D\ -XO\

Benedict T. Simon, Muscat

Will visit Mt Kinabalu

.SVIL ;YHPS

<W`V

\ NV

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A travel and tourism magazine needs to have the correct balance of both local and international articles. Your first ever attempt is quite successful. We love your magazine, keep up the good work! I liked all the articles and the images and thanks to your magazine, I will even visit some of the foreign destinations that you have mentioned, like Ireland and Mt Kinabalu!

0D\ -XO\

0D\ -XO\ 0D\ -XO\

Khalfan Al Touqi, Al Khoud

E-mail your letters to footprints@blackandwhiteoman.com 4

August-October 2010

C o n t e n t s Editor-in-chief Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali Managing editor Priya Arunkumar Work editor Adarsh Madhavan Design and production Beneek Siraj Photographer Najib Al Balushi Advt. & marketing Azeez Sha, Ali Al Raisi, Swithun Fernandes Printers Oman Printers

46 presentation

O ma n-Tr a il

Published by: Muscat Press & Publishing House SAOC Postal address: P O Box 86, PC 115, Madinat Sultan Qaboos Office location: Hatat House, Office no: 212, II Floor Ph: 24565697 Fax: 24565496 e-mail: footprints@blackandwhiteoman.com

On the cover

A joint venture with Zahara Travel and Service Bureau

The White Lions of Al Ain Meet Sanbona and Shamwari, the snow white lions of Al Ain Wildlife Park and Resort

Design: Beneek Siraj, Photo: Najib Al Balushi 6

August-October 2010

Pisa, Pizza and Pasta If you are going to do a lot of walking, travelling in Pisa, you are going to get hungry. So, let us tuck into some Pizza and Pasta

Glo b e -T ra i l

E id geta wa ys

Zanzibar: the ancient theatre of Africa Throughout the nineteenth century Zanzibar became an important hub for Islamic scholarship, attracting scholars from Oman. On the island, the Ibadhi sect was exposed to modern Islamic trends in a way that had not been possible in Oman

Eid getaways The world is a touristâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delight and there are thousands of attractive places you could go to for a holiday, especially during Eid

Tales of Wukan Wukan village is an emerald dreamland, especially for visitors who are often exposed to miles of dryness and desert

Meeting place of the Jinn One of the hottest destinations for cavers in this part of the world is right here in Oman â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Majlis Al Jinn, located in the Selma Plateau

Footprints special report Oman to host international conference on responsible tourism in destinations. Tourism ministry officials reveal details

August-October 2010

Ahlan Wa Sahlan

Accent on responsibility Think tourism today, and along comes the word responsibility. Yes, currently, the

Dr Rajiha Abdulamir Ali Minister of Tourism

accent is on responsibility and responsible tourism. As Oman takes its steps to host the fourth international conference on responsible tourism destination, scheduled to be held from October 10 to 12, let us try to look at the various aspects of responsibility that each one of us have to bear. Without going into the national framework on responsible tourism for Oman, let us ask ourselves how responsible all of us have been â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as far as tourism is concerned -- in the last few years. Or maybe in the last few monthsâ&#x20AC;ŚHave we made a conscientious effort to protect our own environment; did we at least pick up trash and deposit it in the dust bin; did we do anything in our own humble way to safeguard and preserve our beloved nation? Have we made efforts at telling our children about the imperative need to safeguard and protect our environment and have we done our bit so that our youngsters will have something positive to emulate and something tangible to inherit? Have we begun our efforts at the grassroots level to ensure that our country will be a great place for not only our children to live in but for other children and their parents to visit? Responsibility means taking control of our thoughts and actions and being responsible for it. We all know and understand that tourism is the way ahead for us and a way of diversifying the economy. So, let us all be committed to developing it in a sustainable manner. Omanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s climate, varied scenery, archeological and historical remains and most importantly, its friendly people, gives it a great advantage for developing tourism. Media has a great role to play in propagating responsible tourism and in this way, Footprints, the first quarterly travel magazine of its kind in Oman, which is being jointly brought out by Zahara Travel Group and the Black & White magazine, has taken a step forward by not only promoting responsible tourism, but also pledging full support to this cause. Let us all jointly work towards protecting and preserving our tourism wealth.

August-October August October 2010

Friend, philosopher & guide

Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali Editor-in-chief

Curiosity will not kill the cat Human beings are a curious lot. But, this rule does not apply when we visit a new place. Most of us never check on the traditions and customs of a place that we are visiting for the first time. Many of us go into the interiors here and pass through villages or even stop by, take pictures etc. But, have we ever really stopped by, asked anything about the village and the villagers? Have we spoken to them about where we are from, what we do, and have we learnt anything about a place we visit? Most of us don’t care or even bother to do that. But, what we tend to forget is that there is a wealth of information out there waiting to be asked, to be picked up, assimilated or made into stories and tales. Why can’t we all have an open mind and strive to learn more about the nation that we live in – it is for our own good, if not for anything else. Oman’s villages are a minefield of tales, of folklore, legends and the like…but few have learnt to tap this goldmine of stories. And, the other stumbling block, perhaps for visitors is that almost all of the villagers are shy; they also don’t speak anything more than necessary. I wish they could…they would have served as the brand ambassadors themselves! The Footprints team recently went high up a mountain to a village perched some 1600 metres above sea level and mingled with the people there. They bring back here not just same tale of greenery, of amazing agricultural produce and/or the simple hardworking villagers alone, but also managed to forge a friendship with them. Let them share with you a simple tale of the keepers of the green village of Wukan. And, the team adds that even if they are not sent to Kenya or South Africa, they can just hop, skip and jump to our neighboring Al Ain and bring up a delightful tale of white lions, meerkats and penguins …

August-October 2010

(PART OF ABU RAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;AD AL-JABRI TRAD)

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Globe-Trail

Abode of the

Snow white lions Words and Photographs: Adarsh Madhavan, Priya Arunkumar and Najib Al Balushi

We waited with bated breath. Suddenly from their den, we saw two streaks of white leaping out and our hearts leapt along with them. They bounded out with an amazing grace and then wildly attacked the bird meat hanging from a point in the glass-caged enclosure. At that moment, we thanked the glass enclosure that protected us from these two hungry predators of the wild. More elusive than the African leopard, rarer than the legendary Snow Leopard of the Himalayas, and as white as the polar bear of Alaska, and regarded by African tribal elders as the most sacred animal on the African continent â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the snow white lions of Al Ain Wildlife Park and Resort â&#x20AC;&#x201C; AWPR -- dazzled us with their sheer wild beauty.

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

Sanbona and Shamwari are ambassadors for their wild cousins. At the AWPR, they are celebrities in their own way

Why white lions? “Sanbona

and

Shamwari

are

ambassadors for their wild cousins. We are trying to showcase the essence of the lion as a predator and a carnivore,

Rarest of rarities

and talk about the issues related to the

The two-and-a-half year old brother-

conservation of lions throughout Africa

sister duo Sanbona and Shamwari are the

and how all of us can help protect the

rarest of rarities among the endangered

animal and their environment. These

species of animals in the world. There

two are a gift from the Sanbona Wildlife

are only an estimated 200 white lions

Reserve in South Africa to recognise AWPR’s leadership in the conservation

worldwide – in captivity. These nearextinct lions are hunted to extinction in

“Yes,

Sanbona

and

Shamwari

are

the wild by trophy hunters and poachers

conservation ambassadors who will help

who pay astronomical sums to shoot a

throw light on the plight of the African

white lion for pleasure. They have also

lion.

and Africa,” Farshid added.

Not albino The white lions at AWPR are not albino;

been hunted in captivity in a notorious malpractice known as ‘canned lion

Fifty years ago, the lion population

their unique hair and skin pigmentation

hunting’. No law protects them from

exceeded 450,000 individuals. Today,

is caused by the presence of a recessive

being wiped off the face of the earth.

only 20,000 lions survive in the wild.

gene known as chinchilla or colour

These white lions will help us highlight the

inhibitor, Farshid noted. The eyes, paw

And that is where the AWPR has stepped

plight of the lion in Africa, the loss of the

pads and skin of the white lion retain

in,

lion in the rest of the world, and the need

a bluish hue. White lions were first

to conserve species and ecosystems,”

documented in 1972 in the Krueger

calling

Farshid Mehrdadfar, manager, animal

National Park of South Africa, though

attention to the urgent need to protect

collection

legend and folklore suggest the white

the African lion from extinction.

AWPR told Footprints.

bringing

creatures,

these

who

conservation

of arid land carnivores throughout Arabia

will

two

magnificent

now

serve

ambassadors

August-October 2010

management

department,

lions have existed for many ages.

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

Normally, a lion’s brown shade helps him/her merge with the natural environment enabling him/her to hunt and survive. But, these white lions would stand out in the wild and will remain an unprotected target for all. The irony is that their own unusual beauty could prove to their undoing when they are in the wild

Save the lions “When there is a rare phenomena, people stop and take notice. Look at these two

“But, with these two majestic, proud and

Celebrities at AWPR

beauties… they are accidents of Mother

beautiful lions, that is the message we

“They

Nature that has left them vulnerable and

would like to convey -- Save the lions!”

way,” adds Bridget Tighe, a highly

unprotected,” Farshid said.

Lover of big cats

are

their

own

specialised animal trainer, who has worked

extensively

with

the

white

Normally, a lion’s brown shade helps him/

Farshid is a lover of animals, big and

lions to acclimatise them to their new

her merge with the natural environment

small. “But, I love the big cats – they are

surroundings. The white lions were

enabling him/her to hunt and survive.

a challenge! The white lions are the odd

transported to the United Arab Emirates

“But, these white lions would stand out in

ones out. But, white or brown, they are

(UAE) by passenger aircraft from Cape

the wild and will remain an unprotected

lions!” guffaws Farshid, who is in love

Town, South Africa, late last year. The

target for all. The irony is that their own

with the big cats. “Lions are hard to

AWPR, which includes more than 900

unusual beauty could prove to their

maintain and they grow up fast, and in

hectares of land, is currently home to

undoing when they are in the wild.

a captive situation, they could develop a

4300 animals, 30 percent of which are

fear for the humans and even run away,”

considered to be endangered. The white

he noted.

lions are a rarity among this endangered breed too.

celebrities

August-October 2010

See the squirrel-sized meerkats in their famed upright posture. They often stand on their rear legs and gaze alertly over as if trying to safeguard their tribe, typically serving as lookouts, watching the skies for birds of prey, such as hawks and eagles that can snatch them from the ground. A sharp, shrill call is the signal for all to take cover. It is said that mother meerkats can even nurse their young while standing.

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

The AWPR, which includes more than 900 hectares of land, is currently home to 4300 animals, 30 percent of which are considered to be endangered

August-October 2010

Chile is home to many of these penguins. There are four types of penguins using its coastline as breeding grounds. Humboldt, Macaroni, Magellanic and Rockhopper penguins all make their home along the coast of Chile. While the number of penguins living in this region is significant, the populations have become threatened by overfishing and oil spills

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

Protected contact This is not the first assignment for animal lover Bridget, who has taken a course on exotic animals training. She and her colleague, Narinda Pentz, engage in, what is called the ‘protected’ contact’

Once you earn their trust, it is easy to

with the white lions.

train and teach them too, Bridget noted.

“Lions remain as lions with their natural

And this is the case with Sanbona, who is

Getting people to be in touch with nature

instincts intact, where ever they are.

quite relaxed with me. Shamwari, like all

First established as Al Ain Zoo in 1968

As an animal trainer, I am in charge of

female species, is a little distrustful and

by the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al

Sanbona and Shamwari and they are an

does not get friendly that too easily. She

Nahyan, the Al Ain Wildlife Park & Resort

absolute delight to work with. But, I am

watches me, but she is physically active

is a multi-faceted development designed

mostly in protected contact with them

and can be quite zesty!”

around wildlife to create an outstanding

“Male lions are relaxed and easygoing.

sustainable

and we respect each other’s distance.

leisure

and

learning

Both of them recognise her voice, the

destination aimed at bringing people in

I am taking care of them since last

colour of her dress and their eyesight

touch with nature.

September and I can say I have

are excellent, Bridget noted. “Along with

developed a relationship with them.

Narinda, we feed the lions; take care of

Following the principles established in

Other than the white lions I also take care

them and if they need medical attentions,

the Abu Dhabi 2030 Urban Framework

of the leopards and the cheetahs too. It is

their health and hygiene etc., we feed

Plan, the AWPR will become a model

all about positive reinforcement. I spend

them twice a day a carnivorous meal of

for cultural and ecological sustainability,

quite a lot of time with them and when I

minced meat, beef and camel meat on

conservation and education.

am with them I feed them food. Now they

bone, approximately 5 to 6kgs of meat a

know I am the food lady. They notice and

day!”

The natural wildlife of the park and educational centres, in addition to the

learn body language. I can sense them, smell them and so do they!”

For many, the existence of white lions

themed desert safaris, and a world

might be hard to believe, but this near-

leading arid land botanic gardens and

extinct

creatures

plant collection, will provide both a centre

residing in AWPR is just a hop, skip and

of learning excellence and a leisure

jump away from Oman.

destination.

and

breathtaking

The natural wildlife of the park and educational centres, in addition to the themed desert safaris, and a world leading arid land botanic gardens and plant collection, will provide both a centre of learning excellence and a leisure destination 22

August-October May-July 2010 2010

REACHING THERE: If you are coming from Dubai, you will pass by Hili Fun City on your right then straight to the next R.A. you will find Sh. Zayed’s Palace on the left. Take left from the R. A. and keep straight till you reach Al Ain Rotana Hotel on the right then straight till the next traffic lights you take right (then as it is mentioned in the drawing).

Location Map

Dubai

120th

As part of the transformation into a

Hazz

Al Ain International Airport

St Al

j le e ha

dan

Bin

Khalifa St

Al Mandoos R/A

Maqam R/A

Al Ain Sports Club

Ibn

Sult

zza

Higher College Technology

lta

n Al

yya Nha

an Tw

al S Aww

Ibn

Sula

Latitude 24°10'45.37"N Longitude 55°44'19.99"E

Al Maqam

Zayed Military College

ed Zay

and the Sheikh Zayed Desert Learning

n Zayed Al Awwa l

Ibn

th S

135

Intercontinental Hotel

Hilton Hotel

b fa I ali Kh

led

Kha

wal St Al Aw Zayed

t dS aye n Z UAE University

fa Ib

the project, including the African Safari

two will be complete in 2012, and the

i-Al Ai

n Truck R d

Ab uD hab

completion date for phase three is 2013.

Oman

th S

135

li Kha

City Centre Area

UAE University

Tawam R/A

Tawam College

AWPR Corporate Ofﬁces

Al Diwan R/A

st S

131

Ham

completed in three phases. Phase one of

Centre, will be finished by 2011. Phase

n St

Ar ab i

ed S

ha Mu

11th St

Sulta

Abu Dhabi

K Al

127th St

a Ibn

the standards globally for conservation

Al Jimi Mall Zayed Central Library

Mohammad Ibn

Civil Defence Administration

is currently being undertaken to set

Construction of the AWPR will be

SULTANATE OF OMAN

Al Ain Sportplex

wildlife resort, significant development

efforts.

Al Hili

Tru c

kR d

Jebel Hafeet

August-October May-July 2010 2010

Globe-Trail

August-October 2010

Pisa, Pizza and Pasta Words and Photographs: Ben Snyder

Make a beeline for the tower and then leave -that is what Glen and his family from Muscat did in Pisa, Italy, recently. Sadly, that is what most tourists to Pisa, which is host to the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous leaning tower, one of the most recognised symbols of Italy, do.

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

lthough it is high on most visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

to-do and to-see lists, for many of them, Pisa is little more than a two-hour lunch break en route from one city to another. Ask Glen, he will tell you. He and his family got off the train in Pisa, dumped

with scientific experiments of Galileo.

their bags at the station and then headed

Although intended to stand vertically,

straight for the tower, clambered to the

the tower began leaning to the southeast

top, took their photos and left. All in little

soon after the onset of construction in

more than an hour.

1173 due to a poorly laid foundation and loose substrate that has allowed the

But, what Glen might have forgotten

foundation to shift direction. The tower

to tell you is the fact that the leaning

currently leans to the southwest.

tower, which is housed in the Piazza dei Miracoli (miraclesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; square) in Pisa is one

Some of the tourists that visit this famous

of the greatest structures in the world.

edifice of Pisa fail to recognise its true

Besides her architectural importance,

potential, or the fact that Pisa itself has

it is also famous for being associated

a lot of treasures to offer to her visitors. Situated by the river of Arno of Ligurian Sea, Pisa is a city of Tuscany in central Italy. The city is endowed with the entire natural treasures of Italy and of course with the world-famous cultural enrichment of Europe.

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

Pisa, which is cradled between two spectacular cities Milan and Florence, has much more to offer than her architectural wonders. But, you can always find great pizza, Visitors – unlike Glen – who had extended

pasta and gelato everywhere. Great

their visit to Pisa for more than two

pizza would mean lots of mushrooms,

hours will also find some shops as well

tomatoes and cheese. Once you get that,

as houses, which are a throwback from

just can sink your teeth into that cheesy

the 16th century along the Piazza Dei

world of pizza and float away.

Cavalieri and the Via Santa Maria. Other than that, you could also order In the south, in campo Santo, you can

The local Pisa guides note that those

pasta with hare or duck sauce and little

visit the museums -- Museo delle Sinopie,

planning an extended (from two to three

meatballs inside. We could go on and

which houses a rich collection of plaster

days to a week) visit to Pisa should hire

on, but, one major factor to note is that

sketches and the Museo dell’Opera,

a car (which you can obtain at the Pisa

if you really want to eat well and not

which possesses varieties of paintings

airport itself) as opposed to getting into a

spend like crazy, move as far away as

and sculptures.

bus and travelling around.

is possible from the leaning tower. The area right around the tower can not only

The miracles square also offer the

Now, if you are going to do a lot of

be crowded, but the shops and cafes

amazing Duomo- the bapistry and the

walking, travelling etc., you are going

that line the beautiful piazza are usually

Caposanto- a monumental cemetery.

to get hungry. So, from Pisa, let us tuck

overpriced.

The Knights square is blessed with many

into some Pizza and Pasta, which are

beautiful facades designed by Giorgio

omnipresent on the menu of almost every

So, you need to move away and get into

Vasari, which is also cited as a ‘must-

Pisan café.

the eateries away from the tower. Some find this hard work, but as you are aware,

see’. Some of the popular Pisa cafes and

neither Pisa or Pizza nor Pasta was

There are also many churches, which

restaurants include the Caffe dell’Ussuro,

created in a day. But, tell that to Glen.

apart from their religious values also

a historic Pisan café, which opened in

hold immense architectural and historical

1794. The cafe is in a 15th century palazzo

pride. Today these churches house

at Lungamo Pacinotti, 27. Another well

many of the famous paintings of the

known Pisa restaurant is Ristorante Lo

renaissance era as well as pre and post

Schiaccianoci, at Via Vespucci 104 near

renaissance period.

the train station. For those interested in variety can also explore the various exciting examples of regional cuisine.

More than one leaning tower of Pisa The tower of Pisa does not stand alone. There is a steeple of the Cathedral of Pisa, which is just metres away from it. But, the cathedral gets step-motherly treatment as the tower takes away the spotlight. The tower, which is situated behind the Cathedral, is the third oldest structure in Pisa’s Cathedral Square (Piazza del Duomo) after the Cathedral and the Baptistry. But, an interesting factor is that there is more than one leaning tower of Pisa. Pisa’s famous leaning tower is simply the bell tower for the adjacent cathedral – cathedrals all over Italy have bell towers, and many of them are also leaning for one reason or another!

August-October 2010

REACHING THERE: Pisa is within easy reach in Italy and from abroad in various ways: By car: from Genoa or Milan you should take the A12 Genova-Pisa highway to arrive. For those arriving from Rome, take the A12 Roma-Civitavecchia highway and the E80 expressway. Anyone arriving from Florence can take the A11 Firenze-Mare highway or the Firenze-Pisa-Livorno expressway. By train: Pisa is linked to Florence with a very frequent train service linking the two cities in about an hour. Pisa is also on the Rome-Genoa line with frequent trains in both directions. The station is located in the direct proximity of the historic center, on the south side of the Arno. By plane: Galileo Galilei International Airport is situated in Pisa. It is the principal airport in Tuscany, linking the city with main Italian and European destinations. The airport is just one kilometer from the city. Connections are both by train or bus.

Some of the main tourism attractions in Italy include:

used to enable visitors to view the roof. A large number of people visit this place

Roman Colosseum (Rome) This is one of Rome’s most famous tourist

The holes still seen in many columns are

attractions. The Flavius amphitheatre

just the holes made to extract the lead

is the biggest and most imposing in

and iron used by the Romans for the nails

Grand Venice Canals (Venice)

the Roman world, but is also the most

inside the marble blocks.

This Sinking City is indeed a sight for

famous monument in Rome and is known

The amphitheatre could earlier hold up to

sore eyes. Tell me about a single travel

as the ‘Colosseum’ or ‘Coliseum’.

seventy thousand spectators.

enthusiast on earth who does not want

throughout the season.

to go to a city covered with water. The

The Coliseum is an imposing ancient structure. Imagine it all white, completely

Vatican (Rome - Vatican)

architectural beauty of Venice, its canals

covered in splendid travertine stone

This Holy See is the official residence

and bridges, is unmatched, unique, and

slabs. It is elliptic in shape in order to

of the Pope, but beyond its religious

beautiful. Venice is a must visit tourist

hold more spectators. It had four floors;

importance, the Vatican has a fascinating

place in Italy. A part of Venice has canals

the first three had eighty arches each;

and amazing architecture that attracts a

and visitors can travel by gondolas to

the arches on the second and third floors

large number of tourists every year. The

have a look on the beauty of this place.

were decorated with huge statues.

Sistine Chapel painted by Michelangelo

While traveling in gondolas, you will find

What we see nowadays is just the

is the cherry on the cake to The Vatican.

that the Venice Canals is long chain

skeleton of what was the greatest arena

In the Sistine Chapel, the mirrors and the

of narrow streets. Furthermore, the

in the ancient world. Three-fifths of the

dome of the chapel are quite impressive.

romance of travel by gondola is ultimate.

outer surrounding brick wall are missing.

Since it is extremely difficult to spend

Travel through the canals of Venice is a

hours walking with the neck extended

magical experience, which no one should

and head fully reclining back, mirrors are

miss. August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

Capri Capri Island is called a paradise by tourists, which is located in the Mediterranean and has become a preferred tourist destination. The beauty of its beaches and the island itself makes it a popular destination among famous celebrities. The island of Capri is a different destination in Italy. It is for people who are looking out for leisure, sun, and the beach and not the history and architectural wonders of Italy. Capri is ideal for days out in the middle of tourist travel in Italy to return to the mainland for further admiration of the splendour of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture and history.

August-October 2010

Zanzibar A JOURNEY THROUGH THE ANCIENT THEATRE

Words and Photographs by AISHA ABDULLAH AL-KHARUSI

Locals roam the streets in traditional Omani dishdasha, children walk out of their homes playfully and enter the narrow alleyways of the World Heritage Site - Stone Town, young charming women tittle-tattle behind somewhat closed rustic elegant doors, stray cats rest on broken steps waiting for leftovers from the fishermen, shopkeepers dust off their merchandise at the entrance of intricately handcrafted Omani carved doors, and the elderly sit on a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;barazaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; meeting place watching every scene unfold in: The Ancient Theatre of Africa.

August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

Men sitting on a baraza watching the day unfold after Friday prayers

Above: House of Wonders now Zanzibar’s state museum Below: A view from the museum

THE ONGOING LOVE AFFAIR with the island of Zanzibar began in the summer of 2002. My maternal uncle, khali Ali Al Mahrooqi invited me to join his family on an unforgettable summer vacation to the island of Unguja (Zanzibar). At that time, Zanzibar was unfamiliar territory. I grew up unaware of the paradise island although both my parents’ respective families of Arab Omani descent immigrated and made their living in the East African coast for several decades. History lessons at home consisted of our beautiful and legendry country of Oman. However being the curious individual that I am questions always had to be answered. When answered, naturally more questions were raised to satisfy my inquisitive mind. Unfolding my family’s rich history was surely hidden behind every door of Zanzibar and undoubtedly within every door of the Sultanate of Oman. 32

August-October 2010

In the Empire game, the Portuguese and British took turns at leaving their mark on the archipelago. However, it was traders from Oman, who had the most lasting influence on the island – by introducing Islam, now practiced by a large segment of the population. Today, the people of Zanzibar are an interesting “fusion” of Zanzibari Africans (Shirazis), the Arabs (primarily from Oman and Yemen), Parsis, Isma’ilis’s, Khojas and Bohras (Asians) among others. Throughout the nineteenth century Zanzibar became an important hub for Islamic scholarship, attracting scholars from Oman. On the island, the Ibadhi sect was exposed to modern Islamic trends in a way that had not been possible in Oman. Sayyid Barghash bin Sa‘id, who ruled Zanzibar from 1870 to 1888, was well-read and deeply interested in world affairs.

Barghash is credited with building much of the infrastructure of Stone Town, including piped water, public baths, a functional police force, roads, parks, hospitals and large stateof-the-art building at the time such as the ‘House of Wonders.’ The House of Wonders or ‘Beit al Ajaib’ was built for ceremonial purpose. Now it is used as the Zanzibar state museum. Historically, Sayyid Sa‘id ibn Sultan was the first amongst the Omani Sultans in Zanzibar and Pemba. He successfully managed to link central Omani rule over the Swahili coast, and in 1832 he moved the capital to Zanzibar. A visionary leader with strong business acumen, Sultan Sa’id witnessed the growth of exporting cloves. During his reign, the Zanzibar clove industry monopolised the world market fostering a commercial empire.

THE PEOPLE OF ZANZIBAR ARE AN INTERESTING FUSION OF ZANZIBARI AFRICANS, THE ARABS, PARSIS, ISMA’ILIS’S, KHOJAS, AND BOHRAS AMONG OTHERS In Oman, the tribal surname AlKharusi is associated with a long line of religious Imams, the last being Imam ‘Salim bin Rashid Al Kharusi’ who died in 1920. It was only after the recently published book ‘Zinjibar’ by Nasser Al Riyami that I learnt about my great grandfather, Said bin Abdullah bin Said Al Kharusi’s time as mayor of Zanzibar. His long lasting friendship with William Harold Ingrams (a British politician and an author of several books including ‘Arabia and the Isles’) left a lasting impression on the Englishman – and in his writings in Europe.

Above: Zanzibar’s agricultural plants such as pepper, cinnamon; ginger, vanilla, clove and nutmeg grow naturally in the tropic. This particular “Tea House” served aromatic flavours which was a get-up-and-go booster especially in the early hours of the morning or for an afternoon tea.

Ingram’s countless stories in relation to his visits to my great grandfather’s plantation on a lengthy donkey ride from the capital Stone Town to the northeast village of Kiwengwa always bore memory of my great grandfathers’ warm hospitality. Undoubtedly food was always the central attraction of any invitation while the long list of dishes was always orchestrated by my legendary great grandmother ‘Bibi Kinyasini’ (Salma bint Said Al Barwani). August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

Location: Kizimkazi, the southern tip of the island once a walled city is a fishing village and the site of a 12th century Masjid, the earliest evidence of Islam in East Africa and is thus worth a visit for both natural and cultural reasons. The deeper waters that encircle Zanzibar contain more than 200,000 sq. km of coral reefs and ample sea grass beds, making its undersea marine environment one of the best in East Africa. Divers come from all over the world to see its soft and hard coral beds.

August-October May-July 2010 2010

Globe-Trail

A breeze off the Indian Ocean blew in, fluttering the flowing fabric draped from the outdoor terrace bed; the Imam is calling out to all loyal Muslims for prayers. The setting cast a sheer light behind the dhow and the view over the terrace was epic. I can picture the Sultan of Arabia preaching to his subjects from the throne. My inadequate attempt using words to describe this setting perhaps might hopelessly never capture the moment.

May-July 2010

Globe-Trail

August-October 2010

Zanzibar’s rich heritage and culture as well as the culinary and fashion still lingers on in our family lives today. On special occasion, food at home consists of Swahili cuisines such as ‘mandazis (sweet bread), ‘mhogo’ (cassava), ‘ndizi mbichi’ (green bananas), ‘pilawu’ (rice with chicken or meat), ‘boko boko’ similar to the Omani ‘harisa’ (wheat with mashed meat) ‘chapattis’ (flat pancake-like bread cooked on a griddle). Fashion influence from Zanzibar includes women wearing ‘kangas’ at home in Oman or to cover the lower and upper half of the body during prayers. According to some scholars ‘kangas’ the brilliant coloured sorongos - were inspired by Portuguese traders’ ‘leso’ (handkerchief). Interestingly, ‘leso’ today is an Arabic word for a long head scarf.

There is something uniquely authentic about Zanzibar. The island’s rich history, heritage and culture, 19th century buildings, music and arts thankfully have not been harmed and airbrushed by modernism nor has it succumbed to the bland demands of mass tourism.

Above: My new best friends strolling on the soft, talcom powder white beaches of Michamvi. Opposite: ELEGANT RUINED DOORS; one would imagine of an island so rich in history and architectural tradition, Zanzibar is dotted with the half-forgotten ruins of mysterious old building and doors. Some are almost lost to vegetation or the damages of tropical storms, while some, thankfully, have been preserved for posterity and can still be visited by inquisitive travellers.

“Africa is mystic; it is wild; it is a sweltering inferno; it is a photographer’s paradise...an escapist’s Utopia. It is what you will, Source: http://www.deltawillis.com/buzzingberyl.htm and it withstands all interpretations...To a lot of people, as to myself, it is just ‘home’. It is all these things but one thing- it is never dull.” -Beryl Markham, Kenya’s first female aviator, 1942 August-October 2010

Globe-Trail

It is a living proof that somewhere in this ever conforming world, a place like Unguja Island is still very comfortable with its rich heritage. Unquestionably, this paradise on earth is the ideal retreat for every daydreamer keeping in mind that it is all about going back to basics. Every evening when dusk approached there was an undercurrent of peace within the mysterious dark sea and twinkling of a starry sky. The air on its own could tell a thousand tales from the steady hush and hum of the waves gently moving back and forth. This is the picture of the East coast stretch of Bwejuu, my final destination for the rest of the summer, a poster perfect setting which oozes romance and sheer mystique!

August-October 2010

REACHING THERE:

Bwejuu beach

ZANZIBAR THE LOW DOWN

GETTING TO ZANZIBAR Oman Air ( www.omanair. com) provides four weekly flights from Saturday, Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Its the only carrier that flies direct from Muscat International Airport to Julius Nyerere International Airport - Dar Es Salaam; then take an onward flight to Zanzibar on Precision Air or Zan Air. Additional carriers from Dubai and Doha includes Emirates, Kenya Air, Ethiopian Airline and Qatar Airways. WHERE TO STAY STONE TOWN: Zanzibar Serena Inn (www. serenahotels.com) $$$ Al Johari $$$ 236 Hurumzi $$$ Dhow Palace Hotel $$ NUNGWI: Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel (www.rasnungwi.com) $$$ La Gemma Dell’Est $$$$ Amaan Bungalows $$

BWEJUU: Breezes Beach Club $$$ The Palms $$$$ MNEMBA ISLAND: Mnemba Island (00255 24 2233110) $$$$ KIWENGWA: Zamani Zanzibar Kempinski (reservations.zanzibar@ kempinski.com) Blue Bay Beach Resort $$$ WHEN TO GO The long dry season, when rainfall is fairly unusual, lasts throughout June through October. Temperatures vary

hugely with altitude and location, but it’s usually a fine, clear sky and sunny weather – it’s a great time to visit Zanzibar! BOOK OF CHOICE Memoirs of an Arabian Princess from Zanzibar by Emily Ruete (born Sayyida Princess of Zanzibar and Oman) “Zinjibar” (in Arabic) by Nasser bin Abdullah Al Riyami

Eid getaways “How would you like to spend this Eid atop a tree house in Wayanad? Or explore one of the world’s oldest rainforests in Malaysia? Or, how about cruising down the Nile in a Felucca, an ancient Egyptian sail boat as the blazing desert sun slips slowly beneath the horizon? The world is a tourist’s delight and there are thousands of attractive places you could go to for a holiday, especially during Eid. Here we take you through three magical once-in-a-lifetime excursions that will stay in your memory forever.”

August-October 2010

Eid-Special

Explore your country first before you explore the world Local flavour. Tell that to the Indian ambassador, Anil Wadhwa. He vouches for it. Why travel tens to thousands of kilometers to some foreign country for some hours of leisure when you can do that in your own country, he asks. And Wadhwa does that. Whenever he is in India and is able to take some time off from the vacation schedule, he speeds off to his favourite destination in God’s Own Country (Kerala): Wayanad – to the exotic tree houses located in rainforests, surrounded by coffee, tea, pepper and cardamom plantations. Wayanad is popular as a hill station and the tree houses offer a unique style of accommodation and Wadhwa is mesmerised by its verdant beauty. Atop the tree top

Tourist’s delight

“What is my favourite destination? My ready answer

And, India is a tourist’s delight – an all time favourite tourist

would be: Kerala. Primarily Wayanad, on top of the

destination, he says. “You want a vacation of your lifetime,

tree houses there. I think the tree houses offer one of

then travel to India – it has got everything and more there.

the best lodging options to enjoy the natural sceneries

Being a vast country with an abundance of appealing

of Wayanad. The tree houses are situated atop a tree

attractions, various cultures and traditions, there are so

in the heart of the lush tropical rainforest in Wayanad,”

many different things to see and do. From nature, wildlife,

Wadhwa said, adding that his last visit there still lingers

mountains, seas, beaches, adventure sports to medical to

fresh in his memory.

theme parks…India is a potpourri of myriad attractions; a great and lavish buffet of destinations for the global

God’s own country

tourist!”

“I mean, it is indeed an unforgettable place. And Kerala, as they say, is God’s own country and Wayanad is one of

Italian Gucci from Delhi, Prada from Chennai

its most sought-after travel destination.” The rainforests

Today India has grown in multitudes and has become a

are located at an altitude between 3750 feet and 4500

major shopping destination too, Wadhwa reveals. “I was

feet from sea level, under the shadow of verdant forests

in Italy recently and went shopping for a pair of Italian

amidst the fragrance of a thousand scents, where time

shoes. While I was looking around in an exclusive leather

moves according to the ancient rhythms.

showroom, the salesman asked me where I came from.

“Travel takes on a whole new definition today. If you are

When I told him, he said, “well, you should buy these

travelling to relax in a top five-star hotel, why not do that

Italian shoes in India, they are made there! Only the shoe

in your own country? You don’t have to travel much. My

soles are fit in here,” he said, grinning at me.

one simple travel tip is: enjoy the local flavour!” Wadhwa

said, indicating that many travellers forget to explore

“Yes, it is true. From top garment brands to Italian Gucci

their country while they travel out elsewhere in their bid

and Prada shoes, India makes them all. It is outsourced

to get more travel experiences. “Many would see they

in India. India is considered to be one of the top three

have seen the world, but ask them if they have seen

countries in the world in the making of a variety of items

their own country and they would say no…it is a pity. Let

like readymade garments, textiles items, home furnishing,

travel begin from the home front!”

handicrafts and souvenirs…”

August-October May-July 2010 2010

August-October 2010

Eid-Special

Know Malaysia – Love

Malaysia T

o know Malaysia is to love Malaysia.

A bubbling, melting pot of races and religions where Malays, Indians, Chinese and other ethnic groups live together in peace and harmony, Malaysia is one of those places where there’s never enough time to explore. With plenty to see and do, it can be quite a feat deciding which ones to tackle first within a limited space of time. It is an exciting destination, a

Endless varieties of packages

beautiful nation blessed with a fascinating

You can also explore Taman Negara,

diversity of cultures and natural wonders.

one of the world’s oldest rainforest; feel the exhilaration of Formula One Racing;

One of Malaysia’s key attractions is its

dive into the heart of the Celebes Sea

extreme contrasts. Towering skyscrapers

and swim among turtles; tee-off at

look down upon wooden houses built

breathtaking fairways; or sail into the

on stilts, and five-star hotels sit several

island paradise of Langkawi. Choose

metres away from ancient reefs.

from an endless variety of travel packages - eco-adventures, golfing, homestays,

For the perfect holiday full of surprises,

angling, weddings, honeymoons, health

eclectic cultures and natural wonders,

and wellness, or, better still, create your

the time is now, the place is Malaysia.

dream holiday. Multiculturalism has not

Spellbind and amaze you

only made Malaysia a gastronomical paradise, it has also made Malaysia

So, fix up a trip to experience Malaysia

home to hundreds of colourful festivals

in all its cultural richness and natural

too.

splendour. From the cosmopolitan sights

of Kuala Lumpur to the vast richness of

Eco-adventures

the Borneo rainforest and cultural sights

You can also take part in the breathtaking

of Penang to the myths and legends of

spectrum of nature-based activities and

mysterious Langkawi, these trips are

experience the thrill of jungle trekking,

guaranteed to spellbind and amaze you!

mountain and rock climbing, caving,

Tour operators can give you a range of

four-wheel drive expeditions, white water

options. For instance, you can take a trip

rafting and bird watching in lush tropical

to the beautiful island of Langkawi for

rainforests. For watersports enthusiasts,

mythical exploration, conquer the highest

opportunities

mountain in Southeast Asia with the help

snorkel, dive and even parasail abound at

of a guide or take a view of Kuala Lumpur

the islands and beaches in the peninsula

City from the sky!

as well as the Malaysian Borneo.

August-October 2010

water-ski,

windsurf,

Egypt

Enigmatic and diverse culture of

Architectural feat The unbelievable architectural feat of the Pyramids, the mystery of the haunting Valley of the Kings, or the awesome, monumental ruins at Karnak; these attractions are the core of Egypt’s intriguing story. However holidays to Egypt also offer unique experiences that are not so well-known, with a whole new set of adventures to discover after dark.

Sunset cruise A sunset Felucca Cruise cruising down

the Nile in a Felucca, an ancient Egyptian sail boat, as the blazing desert sun

gypt is regarded as one of the

slips slowly beneath the horizon, is one

most historically important countries in

the world. The enigmatic and diverse

excursions that will stay in your memory

culture that visitors experience on their

forever. As holidays to Egypt are usually

holidays to Egypt continues to fascinate

fairly active with so much to see and

the thousands of people who visit every

do in a short time, treating yourself to a

month. Whether you go to Egypt for the

sunset cruise can be a welcome respite.

those

magical

once-in-a-lifetime’

culture, the food, the history or simply the exotic ambience of cities like Cairo and

Evening rides around the Pyramids

Alexandria, there are certain ‘must see’ sights that you cannot miss.

Evenings are the best times to take a ride around the Pyramids. There are

Egypt could be said to have six different

less people, it is much cooler and the

tourist

atmosphere

super-sites:

Alexandria

and

night

completely

the immediate area around the city;

different. It seems somehow fitting and

Cairo and the immediate area around

more reverent to visit these incredible

the city; Luxor, and the surrounding

monuments in repose without all the fuss

area; Aswan and the surrounding area;

that surrounds them during the day. You

Hurghada and the surrounding area,

have time to contemplate the magnificent

particularly El Gouna; Sharm El Sheikh,

accomplishment of their construction

and the surrounding area including

and the mysterious myths and legends

Sharks Bay.

that surround them.

Special Eid offers from Zahara Holidays (www.zaharaholidays.com)

Egypt – 4 nights/5 days accommodation on bed and breakfast basis; exciting guided sightseeing tours in Cairo and Alexandria; return airport transfers (starting from OMR34 per person per month for BankMuscat credit card holders and OMR204 for others)

Malaysia – 4 nights/5 days accommodation on bed and breakfast basis; City and Genting Highland Tour – return airport transfers (Starting from OMR27 per person per month for BankMuscat credit card holders and OMR162 for others)

Sri Lanka – 4 nights/5 days accommodation on bed and breakfast basis; sightseeing tours in Kandy and Nuwara Eliya – return airport transfers (starting from OMR32 per person per month for BM credit card holders; OMR192 for others)

Lebanon – 4 nights/5 days accommodation on bed and breakfast basis; two full day sightseeing tours with lunch – return airport transfers (Starting from OMR32 per person per month for BankMuscat credit card holders and OMR192 for others)

August-October 2010

Oman-Trail

August-October 2010

Once upon a time… There was an old, old man atop a tall green mountain where grapes, pomegranates and limes abound… He was as old as the hills, but his memory was still sharp and he had quite a lot to say about the quaint old village he lived in…

August-October Au Aug A uugguus ust ssttt-Oc -May-July -O -Oc Occt O cttob tooob ober beerr 2010 22010 201 20 00110

47 47

Oman-Trail

Tales of

Wukan

Words and Photographs: Adarsh Madhavan, Priya Arunkumar and Najib Al Balushi

A wind tugged at our hair, murmuring sweet musical nothings. This blended with the soothing melody of a babbling brook (water flowing from the aflaj). The only out-of-pitch notes in that airy musical concert was our irregular panting and mild cursing as we laboured up the steps leading to the top of an above 1500 feet peak, which was roughly 140 (143kms to be precise) kilometers away from Muscat.

August-October May-July 2010 2010

he Muezinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prayer call to the

faithful gave the music at around 1500 ft

Wukan village is an emerald dreamland,

a new spiritual dimension as we stared

especially for visitors who are often

down at some small villages scattered

exposed to miles of dryness and desert.

down the mountainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foothills. We drew up to catch our breath as sweat trickled

Although visitors frequented Wukan,

down our face and ran mercilessly down

especially

our bodies. But, we had somehow

children of the village seemed quite shy

managed to clamber up to the top of the

and scooted the moment we stopped

steps towards a clearing where a group

our 4WD there. Just in front of the village

of Omanis were enjoying the sun and the

is a large trekkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sign, which detailed

breeze.

paths from Wukan to the plateau and to

those

into

trekking,

the

Hadash and other trails. We were above the Wukan village, a spectacular blaze of greenery in an area

Since there were only young kids and

nestled atop a mountain. This village,

very old men, who despite being friendly

which is home to around 300 people, is

So, we went up the steps, stopping at

were not open to talk about their village,

around 1500 feet above sea level. It is

regular intervals to catch our breath

we took the step trail up because our tour

different from the other villages in Oman,

and quickly munch fresh juicy grapes

guide, Yaqoub Al Balushi, from Zahara

primarily because it is perched high up

or splash cool water from the aflaj on

Tours, had checked around and found

on a mountain, but more importantly, it is

to ourselves. The trail up was dotted

that there were a group of people on

a mini green paradise, where fruits of all

with mainly grapes, dates, lime and

top, including key members of Wukan,

kind, greenery and a special cool climate

pomegranates. There are small seating

who were willing to talk to us about their

abound.

points too all set in a tourist friendly way,

village.

save for the steepness.

May-July 2010

Oman-Trail

Wukan is home sweet home for us! It is tradition that binds us to this green piece of land, says Said Al Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;rafati

August-October May-July 2010 2010

Wise old man of the mountain The Omani group on top were a lively lot. Majority of them were from another village and had come to attend a marriage. Amidst them was a grand old man, who looked as old as the hills, but

We love tourists and we are proud that

who was quite young at heart. He did not

they enjoy the green wonders of our

need much coaxing to speak to us, and

It has been only two years since

village. And the truth is that it is because

soon, he even quickly spruced himself for

electricity and a year since water made

we have preserved our own tradition and

a photo shoot. Since he could not speak

its way to this green mountain-top village.

culture at the village that outsiders still

English, one of the visitors, Abid Abdullah

They have now radios and televisions,

want to visit. Otherwise, they wouldn’t,

Al Tobi, from the Petroleum Development

but the elements of modernity have

would they?”

Oman (PDO), assisted in the translation.

not managed to change deep-rooted tradition or values. “Lifestyle remains the

He also noted that most of the younger

On top of the world

same. Frequent visitors will note that we

generation were educated and employed

Sitting on a small stone ledge, he was

all are the same. Tourists who have been

too, but all of them made it a point to

not only a picture of contentment, but the

here before two years will realise that

come back here to Wukan, to their roots,

deep lines on his face, his kind eyes and

despite the introduction of modernity, we

their home.

his wise outlook displayed a hard-earned

all remain the same!”

Safe abode

wisdom that is not quite often found in city circles. “We are on top of the world,”

“Here, men and women work happily

Many years ago, Khusaif Al Riyami’s great

Khusaif Abdullah Al Riyami said, his hand

in the farms and to be honest, the only

great grandfather had come and settled

sweeping across the expanse.

challenges that we face are the steep

down on this mountain top. “During that

roads. But, tourists find it (the roads)

time, there was a lot of tribal rivalry and

“We are on top – we are safe, we are

exciting and they love to drive up. So

each tribe was in search of a safe abode.

happy,” he said, adding that the villagers

we are also happy to play a part in the

So, here, atop this mountain, they found

were not looking for a change in their

tourism needs of our beloved country.

a safe home,” he said. Soon, they started

status quo. “It is hard to change our way

Tourists are most welcome here and they

farming and slowly a green land took

of life, especially when we are happy.

can either come and enjoy the delights of

shape. “I clearly remember those days.

And why should we change when we are

Wukan or use it as a transit point for their

We had good produce and good money,”

happy?” he queries.

trekking.

he said, smiling.

August-October May-July 2010 2010

Oman-Trail

There are five types of grapes in Wukan. Nasr Al Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;rafati, 10, poses with one of the main varieties

August-October May-July 2010 2010

May-July 2010

Oman-Trail

Then, there were grapes, pomegranates, dates, lemons, onions, garlic, beans,

After hobnobbing with the visitors, we

other vegetables. “We used to make

moved down to the village where we

Not the tradition

cheese

and

sausage

vinegar out of the grapes, which were the

found Said bin Salman Al A’rafati sitting

Other than the greenery, the mountain

main produce. Five varieties of grapes

under the shade of a tree and sipping

village is set in such a way that it makes

are cultivated here – green, red, black,

traditional kahwa. A group of youngsters

the villagers, young and old, live in the

white and dark ones. We take the dates

were also around him. “It’s heaven here…

abundance of nature, making them

to Nakhal, Rustaq and even Muscat to

we cannot think of living elsewhere,” Said

healthy and strong. “We live under natural

sell them. Grapes are mainly harvested in

Al A’rafati said, after generously pouring

conditions; probably that is why we are

August. “

us strong kahwa and passing on some

all strong and free from diseases.

ultra sweet and fresh dates. “Wukan is

Our staple diet of fresh meat, honey and

Marriage – the traditional way

home sweet home for us! It is tradition

dates make us strong,” Said A’rafati said,

Since there was a marriage happening

that binds us to this green piece of land.”

adding that even youngsters consumed

at the village, Khusaifi also delved

Said A’rafati is into fulltime farming. “I have

the same diet. “The people of Wukan do

on this subject. “We love to marry in

70 apricot trees, 30-plus pomegranate

not fancy processed food and we are

traditional style! As in other cultures,

trees and four grape vineyards.”

strong, unlike the cheese and sausage

weddings always play an important role

generation,” he grinned. Asked how

in traditional Omani society. A wedding

many children he had, he said: “I have

is an opportunity for tribes to unite and

six boys…” Then after a pause, he added

celebrate. I remember in those days when

with another grin: “…and 13 girls!”

I got married, we would fire our guns into the air! We were few in number, but we celebrated marriages the traditional way…” 54

August-October 2010

…and they all lived happily ever after…

REACHING THERE:

Total stretch: 143kms from Al Khuwair, Muscat Take the Muscat to Seeb road. At 40 kms from Seeb, you will reach Barka. Turn left at Barka roundabout towards Nakhal direction. At 111kms turn left again towards Wadi Mistul. Seven (7) kilometres from that left turn, the black tarmac ends and the off road begins (118kms). The off road has no diversions and moves straight towards village Wukan. You can see Al Mistal Village Hospital (134kms) and school (135kms) enroute. At 138kms, Al Qoorah village board appears. Take left up. You will reach Wukan village at 143kms.

August-October 2010

Oman-Trail

The meeting place of the Words and Photographs: Ali Al Raisi and Najib Al Balushi

August-October 2010

Jinns

Photo courtesy: Serge Kolkov

August-October May-July 2010 2010

Oman-Trail

One of the hottest destinations for cavers in this part of the world is right here in Oman – the Majlis Al Jinn, located in the Selma Plateau. If ever this sinkhole, which is considered to be the largest known subterranean chamber in Arabia and the second-largest cave chamber on earth (*), is thrown open to the world, it would greatly offer large numbers of non-caving enthusiasts, to have their first-ever glimpse of life underground. Oman’s caves are unspoilt underground environments that await discovery.

hile officials are still mulling

whether this geological marvel, which

If it is developed as a show cave, it would

measures 320 metres in length and 228

Economic diversification is the name of

offer caving enthusiasts a giddying

in width and 120 metres in height, should

the game in Oman and the country is

150-metre drop into it and an equally

be thrown open to the world, those who

keenly veering off from its dependency

electrifying climb up. But, this is all

have been lucky to rappel down its deep

on its oil reserves, so, the caves, if

subject to the cave being thrown open

depths swear by it. Discovered in 1983

developed into a tourist attraction, could

to tourists. It is not an easy decision to

by American geologist, Don Davidson,

generate good revenue.

make as it is difficult to think how tourists

this sinkhole of exquisite natural beauty,

would gain entry to the cave. Studies

is said to be so huge that it could almost

If ever it is made open to the public, the

had earlier examined the feasibility of

hold the Great Pyramid of Giza.

Majlis Al Jinn, so named by Don’s wife

developing this as well as other caves for

(Cheryl S. Jones), will be the second such

tourism purposes.

cave being opened to tourists.

August-October 2010

Al Hoota, which gains prominence as

The two larger entrances, Asterisk and

the first ever cave in Oman to be opened

First Drop, are in small, shallow dolines

to the public, drew quite a number of

or sink holes formed at the intersection

visitors (as many as 75,000) in 2007,

Earlier access to the cave mouth was

of three or more sets of fractures. The

its first year of operation. But, owing to

difficult and cavers had to hike in carrying

third, smallest entrance, Cheryl’s Drop,

the recent rains and the like, Al Hoota,

their equipment or rent donkeys. Some

is a sinkhole formed where two fractures

probably the first ever cave in Arabia to

explorers have even flown into the area

intersect.

be developed for tourists, did not garner

by helicopter. However, now the cave

that many visitors (especially this year).

can be reached on a rough track by four-

(*) However, larger caves have been

wheel drive.

surveyed since then.

stalactites and stalagmites dating several

Experts note that cavers entering this sink

(**) A speleothem (from the Greek word

thousands of years and its blind fish

hole require about 200m of specialised

for ‘cave deposit’), commonly known as

lurking in its darkest depths have drawn

rope and equipment to descend and

a cave formation, is a secondary mineral

great number of visitors who are allowed

ascend safely. But, more importantly,

deposit formed in a cave. Speleothems

to explore only a fraction of the five

the stress is on proper training and

are typically formed in limestone or

kilometers cave stretch. The other larger

experience in their use. Helmets and

dolostone solutional caves.

area is available only to adventure cavers.

headlamps are also a requisite.

Unlike Al Hoota, there are only a few

The cave is just one large room. Very

stalactites and draperies on the ceilings

little water has been able to penetrate its

and walls of the Majlis Al Jinn, but

interiors, but visitors note that the cave

cavers report that moderate and fragile

maintains a pleasantly cool temperature

speleothems (**) are common on the

inside in stark contrast to the sweltering

floor. The entrance openings in the ceiling

heat outside.

provide ambient light in the chamber most of the day.

Visitors can access the cave through one of three entrances. Two are small sinkholes, and the third one is the smallest, and most difficult, point of entry

REACHING THERE:

Al Hoota’s wealth of orange and white

Majlis al Jinn (also Majlis al-Jin, local name - Khoshilat Maqandeli) is in a remote area of the Selma Plateau at 1,380 meters above sea level, 100 kms south-east from Muscat. Take the winding, steep, gravel road from the Quriyat-Sur coast highway and drive up the side of the mountain to reach the plateau. The turnoff from the highway to the dirt track takes you to the Selma Plateau. Continuing on from the plateau, turn right at the fork in the track and you will reach a small village where you can park to see the caves.

into the cave.

August-October May-July 2010 2010

Celebrity Imprint

Forsythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

dream dives 60

August-October 2010

Famous English author and occasional political commentator, Frederick Forsyth, CBE, 72, is a great fan of Oman. In fact, even the heroes of his novels, like Jason Monk (Icon), have found their way to the Sultanate. When not recruiting Soviet agents as counter-spies, Monk spends his time pursuing the â&#x20AC;&#x153;great shoals of yellowfin tuna that stream past the coast of Oman just outside the capital, Muscat, in November and Decemberâ&#x20AC;?, not unlike the celebrated author himself. Forsyth, who is best known for thrillers like The Day of the Jackal, The Odessa File, The Dogs of War and the Fist of God, had also dived off the coast of Oman and fished for yellowfin tuna. He has also spent time in the sharqiyah sands. While his recent trips to the Sultanate are not known, it is confirmed that he and his wife had stayed at Al Bustan Palace hotel some years ago.

August-October 2010

Oman-Trail

Oman is unique in its attitude and traditional hospitality. Educating and training of all those involved in the tourism industry is required to take forward the initiative of sustainable tourism, but again, in a nation that has hospitality embedded in every family, it is going to be much easier than any other part of the world

August-October 2010

Salim Al Mamari

Dr Ali Nasser

“Let us retain Oman’s pristine environment and unique flavour” An Omani taxi driver had a not too usual request from some tourists of a cruise vessel that docked at the Mina Sultan Qaboos recently. They wanted a taste of the authentic Omani cuisine. Hop on board, he enthusiastically told the tourists. Now, elsewhere in the world, a taxi driver would take them to a top restaurant selling authentic local fare. But, the Omani taxi driver was made of different mettle – he just took them to his home. He and his family, not only gave them a taste of authentic Omani cuisine, they were treated to a slice of genuine Omani hospitality, and an experience of real Omani life… “Where can you get a taxi driver to indulge in such genuine hospitality?” Salim bin Adey Al Mamari, director general of tourism promotion, ministry of tourism, asks out aloud. He was unveiling details of Oman’s International Conference on Responsible Tourism in Destinations in an exclusive interview with Footprints, which is scheduled to be held in Oman in October this year, when he gave the above interesting anecdote.

August-October 2010

Oman-Trail

6644

August-October A Aug Au uuggus ust st-O Octo Oc toobber tob er 2010 2001 2201 0 0

alim Al Mamari was stressing on

how the challenge today was to retain Oman’s pristine environment and unique tourism flavour. “These tourists (who were given the authentic Omani cuisine by the taxi driver) left back to their home country with some memorable memories of Oman and its friendly people. But, how do we ensure that this happens always? Omanis are known for their hospitality and taxi drivers and salesmen who become the first tourism faces of Oman need to always maintain this same

Tourism is a multi disciplinary process. No organisation, entity in the tourism industry can work alone, together we can achieve sustainable tourism outcomes

friendly welcoming spirit in an ambience of warm cordiality,” Salim Mamari noted. “When you take something from nature, it “Yes, Oman is unique in its attitude and

makes sense to give it back. Responsible

traditional hospitality. We know educating

tourism is about accountability towards

and training all of those involved in the

the Planet Earth, towards our nation.

tourism industry is a must to take forward

Tourism is a multi- disciplinary process.

the initiative of sustainable tourism, but

No organisation, entity or in the tourism

again, in a nation that has hospitality

industry can work alone. Together,

embedded in every family, it is going to

we can achieve sustainable tourism

be much easier than any other part of the

outcomes,” Salim Mamari and Dr Ali said.

world,” he said confidently. Travellers want less invasive journeys Responsible tourism will become a

Global tourism itself is experiencing

success

a massive transformation, they said.

Salim Mamari added that with tourists

“While tourism should be eco friendly,

coming in, and with modernity adding on

and sustainable, it is very important that

attitude and lifestyle changes, the only

it is responsible. Sustainable tourism is

challenge is to retain Oman in its pristine

also defined as a process, which meets

flavour!

the needs of the present tourists and host communities whilst protecting and

“We are sure with what the ministry has

enhancing needs in the future. A growing

initiated, and with the strong support

number of travellers want their journeys

of all our partners in this industry and

to be less invasive and more beneficial to

related industries, responsible tourism

the local community. They want to better

will not remain just an initiative – it will,

understand the culture of the people they

Insha Allah, become a success story!”

meet in the places they visit.”

Salim Mamari and Dr Ali Nasser Hassan,

In simple terms, it is treating others the

technical advisor, directorate general

way they wish to be treated and receiving

of planning follow-up and information,

the same in return. Interpretation begins

tourism ministry, while unveiling salient

long before the trip and ends long

points of the International Conference

afterward. It is also common sense, good

on Responsible Tourism in Destinations,

manners coupled with genuine hospitality

which will be held in Oman between

that commit both hosts and visitors to a

October 10 and 12, also delved on the

certain code of conduct, Salim Mamari

issue of responsibility in tourism.

and Dr Ali noted. August-October 2010

Oman-Trail

Oman to host international conference on responsible tourism in destinations Oman will host the fourth ‘International Conference on Responsible Tourism in Destinations’ from October 10 to 12 this year, Salim bin Adey Al Mamari, director general of tourism promotion, ministry of tourism and Dr Ali Nasser Hassan, technical advisor, directorate general of planning follow-up and information, tourism ministry, told Footprints.

he officials noted that the main objective of the conference is to contribute

towards preparing a general framework and policies for responsible tourism in cooperation with international expertise in the field. “It is also being held to present and discuss Oman’s effort in sustainable tourism and the principles and basics for its effective planning and management, leading to the achievement of economic prosperity and conservation of environment and cultural heritage of the Sultanate.

August-October 2010

The conference will stress on the value of enhancing the environment and cultural

Oman – pioneer member of UN global

heritage of the Sultanate. It will also serve

tourism initiative

in enhancing the international status of

According

the Sultanate in general and the position

Organisation,

of the tourism sector in particular.” It will

one that leads to the management

also benefit local communities.

of all resources in such a way that

the

World

sustainable

Tourism

tourism

economic, social and aesthetic needs

Responsible Oman

It is based on four themes:

can

maintaining

Both Salim Mamari and Dr Ali said that

•Tourism, livelihoods, local economic

cultural integrity, essential ecological

responsible tourism is the buzz word

development and human resources

processes, biological diversity and life

today, the world over. “But, this will not

•Responsible tourism in a world of finite

support systems. “We are proud to say

be achieved until and unless the common

resources

that Oman is one of first six pioneer

citizen is educated to this initiative.

countries to commit to the Global

Finally, it is him that the tourist meets

management

Sustainable Tourism Partnership by the

face to face.

•Responsible destination management

United Nations Environment Programme

•Tangible

and

intangible

heritage

fulfilled

while

(UNEP) this year. The participation only

“Unless people are ready, the tourist will

Platform to explore themes

reiterates Oman’s objective to be one of

not experience it. Oman is very keen in its

This conference will be a platform

the key players in promoting sustainable

endeavour to uphold its culture, history,

tourism,” Salim Mamary and Dr Ali said.

tradition and the nature bestowed upon

explore

themes

internationally

it. This process of adding accountability

and regionally and consider Oman’s sustainable tourism policy which is

Scores of participants

and responsibility will ensure that the

currently being drafted, Salim Mamary

The conference is expected to be

tourists coming to Oman will take back

and Dr Ali said. “This event is in the

attended by hundreds of participants

live life experiences to cherish forever.”

true spirit of making a low impact on

from many countries, international and

the environment and local culture, while

regional organisations concerned with

Oman is ready

helping to generate income, employment,

tourism and a number of international

The tourism officials referred to the

and the conservation of local ecosystems.

experts. The conference will also be

speech made by His Majesty Sultan

It is all about responsible tourism that is

attended by government officials, head

Qaboos bin Said on November 11,

both ecologically and culturally sensitive.”

of tourism companies and senior tourism

2008. There, His Majesty the Sultan had

experts, in addition to universities,

connected the concepts of sustainability

colleges and research centers.

and

The officials said that the conference will

responsibility,

pointing

the

responsibility of government employees

provide a forum for government, private countries

to realise sustainable development: ‘…

organisations to share experience in the

participating, with over 200 delegates

it is worth noting that the government’s

principles, implementation and future

attending from all parts of the world.

performance

trends in responsible and sustainable

Local representation will be from all

groundwork for sustainable development

tourism

including

relies on those carrying out their duties,

representatives from youth and women

as well as their supervisors. This places

forums and associations” the officials

a huge responsibility on the shoulders of

said.

employees who are entrusted with the

sector,

will

academia

and

development.

provide

opportunities.

international

This

excellent

platform

networking

“We

will

see

industry

over

partners,

laying

down

the

work in the different government sectors.

Unless people are ready, the tourist will not experience it. Oman is very keen in its endeavour to uphold its culture, history, tradition, and the nature bestowed upon it and this process of adding accountability and responsibility will ensure that the tourists coming to Oman will take back live life experiences to cherish forever

If their work is carried out in an honest manner and with a spirit of responsibility, away from personal interests, then they would be happy and so would their country.’ “These are the principles that we would like to follow and engage in the process of development locally, regionally and globally too. We are now telling the world that Oman is ready to open its doors globally and responsibly,” the officials said. August-October 2010

Foot forward

August-October 2010

Asian Beach Games will leave a tourism legacy T

he 2nd Asian Beach Games Muscat

2010 will leave a tourism legacy for the country and for the people, according to Engineer Habib bin Abdul Nabi

“The meetings and discussions went in to

Macki, director general of Muscat Asian

such nitty gritty details that will leave all

Beach Games Organising Committee

wondering at the enormity of what could

(MABGOC).

go wrong even in petty matters. We will leave nothing to chance. Every small

The event will help put Oman firmly on the

detail is looked into and arrangements

global sporting map, Eng. Habib Macki

will be made to see that the event will be

told Footprints in an exclusive interview.

memorable to the participating athletes

“The

and guests alike,” Macki said.

event

will

enhance

Oman’s

image on a global scale, strengthen its

The Asian Beach Games are composed of a variety of modern sports as well as variations on traditional sports. Fourteen sports are on the Muscat 2010 programme: beach soccer, beach handball, beach kabaddi, beach sepaktakraw, beach volleyball, beach waterpolo, beach woodball, bodybuilding, jetski sport, marathon swimming, sailing, tent pegging, triathlon and waterski.

reputation as a sport and eco-tourism

No disappointments, only delights

destination and create new economic

“Oman is a unique destination. Normally,

opportunities,” Eng. Habib Macki said.

when we invite a guest, they are not sure of what to expect. They do not come

Oman is all geared up to host the first-

prepared for the delight Oman offers as

ever global sports event, he said, adding

a country. But they all return astonished

that 45 countries with around 3000

at Oman’s natural beauty, its landscape,

athletes were participating in the second

mountains, deserts, beaches, caves,

beach games, which will be held from

culture and tradition… even its roads and

December 8 to 16 (this year) at the one-

buildings are unique!”

million sq m Al-Musannah Sports City. The purpose-built facility is planned for

“Visitors and guests will take back loads

completion in October and is located

of delightful memories and visions of

125km north of Muscat.

our beloved country. The MABGOC will add on to the uniqueness of Oman. We

“The fast approaching deadlines are

are looking at all types of tourists at the

keeping us on our toes. The recent

event, especially because of the tourism

Games Organising Committee (GOC)

season in December. We hope to do a

meetings and the venue tour of the

memorable and well organised event this

Olympic Council of Asia (OCA) delegation

year…” Macki said.

at Al-Mussanah Sports City as well as Sawadi Beach Resort, and Qantab

The Asian Beach Games are composed

Beach where water skiing, marathon

of a variety of modern sports as well

swimming and the opening and closing

ceremonies will be held has set us new

Fourteen sports are on the Muscat

targets and checklists too,” Macki said.

2010

programme:

He added that the delegation was in

beach

handball,

Oman for a series of meetings and to

beach sepaktakraw, beach volleyball,

check the progress of the preparations

beach

of the games.

bodybuilding,

variations

waterpolo, jetski

traditional beach beach beach sport,

sports. soccer, kabaddi,

woodball, marathon

swimming, sailing, tent pegging, triathlon and waterski. August-October 2010

Information

Traveller’s guide Airlines Flight Information (24 hours): 24 519456 Aeroflot: 24 704455 Air Arabia 24 700828 Air France 24 562153 Air India 24 799801 Air New Zealand 24 700732 Biman Bangladesh Airlines 24 701128 British Airways 24 568777 Cathay Pacific 24 789818 Egypt Air 24 794113 Emirates Air 24 792222 Ethiopian Airlines 24 660313 Gulf Air (toll-free number) 800 72424 Indian Airlines 24 791914 Iran Air 24 787423 Japan Airlines 24 704455 Jazeera Airways 23 294848 Jet Airways 24 796680 Kenya Airways 24 660317 KLM 24 566737 Kuwait Airways 24 701262 LOT Polish Airlines 24 796387 Lufthansa 24 796692 Malaysian Airlines 24 560796 Middle East Airlines 24 796680 Oman Air 24 707222, 24519953 PIA 24 792471 Qatar Airways 24 771900 Qantas 24 559941 Royal Jordanian 24 796693 Saudi Arabian Airlines 24 789485 Singapore Airlines 24 791233 Sri Lankan Airlines 24 784545 Sudan Airways 24816565 Swiss Air 24 787416 Syrian Airways 24797567 Thai Airways 24 705934 Turkish Airlines 24 475030 Art galleries Al Madina Art Gallery Bait Muzna Gallery Omani Heritage Gallery Omani Society for Fine Arts Raj Relics 99329842 Yitti Art Gallery Bookshops Borders Family Bookshop, Qurm Madinat as Sultan Qaboos Turtles House of Prose (Used books) Cinemas Al Nasr Cinema Al Shatti Plaza 70

August-October 2010

24691380 24739204 24696974 24694969 24564297

24558089 24564391 24600084 24696217 24564356

24831358 24693557

Markaz al Bahja Cinema Stars Cinema

24540855 24791641

Embassies and consulates Algeria 24 605593 Austria 24 793135 Bahrain 24 605074 Bangladesh 24 567379 Belgium 24 562033 Canada 24 788890 Chile 24 561977 China 24 696698 Colombia 24 816264 Cyprus 24 490200 Denmark 24 526000 Egypt 24 600411 Finland 24 701454 France 24 681800 Germany 24 832164 Greece 24 706648 Holland 24 603706 India 24 814120 Iran 24 696944 Iraq 24 604178 Ireland 24 797083 Italy 24 693727 Japan 24 601028 Jordan 24 692760 Korea 24 691490 Kuwait 24 699627 Lebanon 24 695844 Malaysia 24 698329 Mexico 24 561977 Morocco 24 696152 Mozambique 24 594207 Netherlands 24 603719 Norway 24 603706 Pakistan 24 603439 Palestine 24 601312 Philippines 24 605140 Portugal 24 561400 Qatar 24 691153 Russian Federation 24 602894 Rwanda 24 487978 Saudi Arabia 24 601744 Somalia 24 697977 South Africa 24 694793 Spain 24 691101 Sri Lanka 24 697841 Sudan 24 697875 Sweden 24 708693 Switzerland 24 568202 Syria 24 697904 Taiwan 24 605695 Tanzania 24 601174 Thailand 24 602684 Tunisia 24 603486 Turkey 24 697050 United Arab Emirates 24 600988 United Kingdom 24 609000

Uruguay USA Yemen Libraries Bibliothèque Française: British Council Knowledge and Learning Centre: Oman Chamber of Commerce and Industry: Public Technical Library Science: United States Information Service: Raspberry’s Books: Museums Bait Adam 99356676 Bait Al Baranda Bait Al Zubair Children’s Museum 24605368/9 Currency Museum Muscat gate Museum Nakhal Fort museum National Museum Natural History Museum Omani-French Museum Oman Heritage Museum Planetarium: Sayyid Faisal bin Ali Museum Salalah Museum Sohar fort Museum Sultan’s Armed Forces Museum Sur Maritime Museum

24 568202 24 643400 24 600815

24681874 24681000 24707684 24673111 24643400 95086074

24605033, 24714262 24736688

24641510 24739005 26781384 24701289 24641366 24736613 24600346 24675542 24641650 23294549 26844758 24588700 24541466

Special interest groups American Women’s Group 24594751 Environment Society of Oman 24482121 Historical Association of Oman 24563074 Horticultural Association 24605493 Indian Social Club 99322713 Muscat Amateur Theatre 24562511 Oman Bird Watching Camp 24695498 Omani Women Association 24602800 Royal Omani Amateur Radio Society 24600407 Woman’s Guild of Oman www.womensguildoman.org Taxis Al Dar Taxi Hello taxi Muscat Cab

24700555 24697997 96429096

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