MODE FW 2023 Side B

So entrancing, She may have power S: Stevie nickS’S per Sona aS the witchieSt woman in muSic

By Bella reilly

“This is a song about a witch,” leading lady of Fleetwood Mac, Stevie Nicks, would profess moments before performing one of the band’s biggest hits, “Rhiannon.” Bouncing a tambourine on her hip, adorning drapey dark clothing, her raspy entrancing tone sang of a woman ‘like a cat in the dark.’ As audiences clung to her spell-like song, it almost seemed like she was the witch she sang about. The press quickly drew that conclusion and plastered it on headlines, starting a widespread rumor that Stevie Nicks was, in fact, a witch.

The claim was a baseless assumption, yet so widely believed that some harassed and sent threats to the songwriter’s home. In 1998, an Alabama high school banned “Landslide” from their ceremonies because they didn’t support the ‘satan worshiper.’ Nicks said of the age-old question in a 2014 interview with the Los Angeles Times, “No, I’m not [a witch]! I just wear black because it makes me look thinner, you idiots.” She consequently avoided wearing her signature color for years after the press initially ran the story, but eventually reverted to her authentically dark persona. Despite this, Nicks has both played into and detested the label put on her by the general public. When she appeared on American Horror Story: Coven in 2014, a season about witchcraft, she took the narrative back into her own hands.

Nicks’s stable and powerful presence in the music scene has indisputably impacted other female artists. While today, her strong feminine energy is matched by other women creatives, her initial emergence was in stark contrast to the maledominated industry of the time. As the first woman inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame twice, Nicks’s work, both in and out of Fleetwood Mac, serves as groundbreaking material that resonates with audiences. To listeners, something about it is ‘just different.’ While that mystifying factor may not be the element of witchcraft, her bold, conversation-starting persona arguably makes up an ample part of her notoriety.

THE SPELLS OF STEVIE NICKS

BY ZOE ENNIS AND LILY PATURZO

LOVE SPELLS

Any fan of Fleetwood Mac knows that Stevie Nicks and lead guitarist Lindsey Buckingham had an intense and tumultuous romance throughout their time as bandmates, which inspired many of their hit songs. One, in particular, has been a racting a lot of buzz among TikTok users because there’s been a resurgence of a particularly dramatic live performance of it. I am referring to “Silver Springs” and, more specifically, the 1997 live performance of it at Warner Bros. Studios in which Stevie sings the song directly to Lindsey Buckingham. Buckingham appears to be “spellbound” as Nicks locks eyes with him and sings, “You’ll never get away from the sound of the woman that loves you.” Many viewers of the performance consider it to be Nicks casting a spell on Buckingham, as they refuse to break eye contact during the climax of the song. Buckingham, almost in a trance, sings these lyrics right back to Nicks, thus solidifying the spell of their eternal connection.

SPELLS OF SISTERHOOD

Known for twirling onstage in her black velvet platform boots, flowing gowns, and gli ering shawls, Stevie Nicks’s signature style would not be complete without her iconic gold moon necklace. A symbol of Nicks’s passion, ferocity, and fearlessness, Nicks provides the women she respects –Taylor Swift, the Haim sisters, and Vanessa Carlton to name a few – custom gold moon necklaces, just like hers, as a token of her heart. Since 1977, Nicks has been casting her own type of spell with her moon necklaces by giving them to those she feels connected to or those le bit of their magic. Over the years, Nicks has created a coven of her own powerful women with these mystical tokens, known as the “Sisters of the Moon.” She has also bestowed them to soldiers at Walter Reed Army Medical Center and Make-a-Wish patients as a sign of her love and respect. No ma er who has received these charms, Nicks has requested that they pass the necklaces on to someone in their luck and power. Nicks’s spirit will live on eternally with the legacy of her moon necklaces. With them, Nicks hopes to inspire her sisters to take control of their own lives, just like the original Gold Dust Woman did.

Layout By: Jackie Kobeski

Photographer: Lily Paturzo

Models: Zoe Gilson, Bella Reilly, Natalia Cruz, Kathryn Labagh

Stylist: Lily Paturzo

Clothing Pieces: Lesley East

Modern Gothic fashion has captured the mainstream fashion industry’s imagination. The dark aesthetics, mystical elements, and rebellion against typical fashion norms contribute to the increasingly popular subculture. The significant dichotomy of aesthetics within modern Gothic fashion is embodied through the contrasting elements of lace and leather. The intricacies of lace stitching create a sheerness that filters through light. The seductive gracefulness and mystery of the finely woven motifs hint at hidden depths, mirroring Gothic romance where the beauty lies in what is concealed as much as what is revealed. The allure of lace applied onto the body enhances the wearer’s sense of femininity through the delicate and luxurious texture. Lace silk slips are often the starting point when styling a modern Gothic look. The elegance of lace is often paired with a vintage leather bomber jacket, platform leather boots, or a leather belt. The meaning exuded by the wearer becomes more complex when mixing the two materials together. The leather carries toughness and durability, adding an empowering and controlling nature to the look.

Author: Ava Kokoros

Photographer: Leah Stuart

Models: Amelia Ferguson, Harmonie Chang, Morgan Jones

Stylist: Ciara Shore

Makeup Artist: Sydney Baker

Layout: Amelia Ferguson

LACE The Lore Of

The rugged leather contrasts with the soft lace to further the sophisticated yet edgy aesthetic. The coexistence of these two core materials in fashion demonstrates a greater message of how one can maintain vulnerability without sacrificing one’s strength.

The mix of these materials is expressed in the media as the Gothic aesthetic is revived in a contemporary way. New York Fashion Week in February 2023 took inspiration from the show Wednesday, starring Jenna Ortega, as dark glamor captured fashion designers’ visions. High fashion brands such as Alice + Olivia had models strutting the runway in crocodile-printed, leather-studded jackets. The catwalk also featured A-line gowns coated with lace and pearls, accessorized with dainty black lace gloves. Similarly, Rodarte’s “Goth Fairy” show had dramatic Morticia Addamsinspired dresses adorned with sparkly black floral lace. The dresses were lifted off the ground with powerful black patent leather stilettos. These empowering looks featuring lace and leather are a form of modern escapism where the wearer can channel their confidence and individuality into a classy, fierce look.

Wednesday Addams is cold, unbothered, and exceptionally dark and twisty. She is an absolute original. After I watched the new Wednesday show on Netflix with Jenna Ortega, I whipped out my black nail polish and started listening to “Goo Goo Muck” by The Cramps. I was obsessed with Wednesday Addams, her sarcastic charm, dark humor, and ability to speak her mind. Despite her dark traits, Wednesday’s character is undeniably lovable. She lives her life artistically and mysteriously without caring for people’s opinions. Wednesday goes against every social norm; she doesn’t have a phone, doesn’t use social media, and detests color. She does not let society try to mold her into a perfect replica of what teenagers are supposed to be like. Instead, outward societal pressure fuels her desire to live a unique lifestyle.

Wednesday is a true outsider, but she wouldn’t have it any other way. When you are in your late teens and early twenties, all you want to be is normal and fit in. You want to feel included, special, and loved. But what if we stopped caring about wanting to fit in? What if I said screw it, I want to do what I want? I want to speak my mind, wear whatever I want, and not care if someone wearing an all-Brandy Melville outfit calls me weird. Who cares. Be Wednesday Addams. Live unapologetically. Be your authentic self and embrace the weird parts of who you are. If you feel like a copy-and-paste version of everyone around you, start asking yourself, “What would Wednesday Addams do?” Before you know it, you will be wearing platform Doc Martens and black eyeliner while channeling your inner badass, just like Wednesday.

RUTH IES N HE ARDS36

RUTH IES N HE ARDS T L

The card game tarocchi, Originating in Italy during the 1430s, was the earliest version of Tarot card reading. It was later renamed as such, and since as early as the 18th century, all of us witches have come to love its fanciful symbolism.

Using the formula of cards that emerge during a reading, recipients are met with a spiritual message and are able to situate it in the context of the universe and their own individual fate.

I T C

viewers are highly impressionable and susceptible. Their messaging offers the perfect formula: vague enough to be applicable to all thousands of its viewers, yet specific enough to supply a personal interpretation. In other words, too good to be a coincidence.

Throughout history the cards have been venerated by many as a way to pull back the curtain and take a glimpse into the future.

Today, they still hold a significance within our society in many contemporary contexts.

It is also worth acknowledging some say there lies a

Many people have adopted the practice as a hobby, studying the technique and using it as somewhat of a party trick. But more virally, it has come to rise through social media platforms–namely TikTok. Video readings on users’ For You Page claim to appear “when they need it most”, and these messages typically contain something about an impending love interest or some other intriguing theme of fate. Being pushed by the algorithm toward a young teen audience, their

darkside in trying to skip future or meddling

own fate. However, senior Maura Mulvihill who reads cards herself says “..tarot is never negative. In my opinion, there is no such thing as a bad omen in tarot! You’re receiving advice from the universe, a message full of love from yourself for yourself”. The fact still remains that tarot has been around since the earliest days of society, and continues to be applied in different ways because of new generations and the internet. But this newfound application of tarot begs the question of whether or not TikTok tarot is a modern way to preserve the age-old tradition, or if it is minimizing the craft?

Written By: Gianna Benasillo Illustraion By: Aoife Harris Layout

By: Zhane Coleman

Twenty Year

OLD PALMS

Written By: Emma Keith

I’m having a midlife crisis .

Overdramatic? Maybe. Valid? Absolutely. I may not be at the point of midlife, but turning twenty is certainly a crisis. The universe gives us this blank open book called “ten more years time,” and my copy seems to be covered in dust (because I’m old now). I wonder if my page-turning twenties will be written in mature calligraphy or stained by the blood of paper cuts? I just have to know, so I do the only rational thing a freshly turned twenty-year-old could think to do and Google: Palm readers near me.

That’s how I met Madame Veronica. “Hold out your palms sweetie,” she does not touch them.

“AHHH…UMMM…HMMM…are you ok if I tell you the good and the bad?”

I nod hesitantly. “Right off the bat, I’m seeing a long life, about eighty years with no health complications, two kids, a happy marriage, no divorce, and lots of travel.” Generic? Maybe. “People in your life will cross you.” Welcome to corporate America, Veronica. “You wanted to be a lawyer when you were younger.” Who didn’t want to be a lawyer after watching Legally Blonde?

You have a way with words, but you’re not going to be a lawyer. No…no… you’re going to be a writer. You’ll write stories…books’’ CHILLS. Becoming an author has been my dream since I decided I no longer wanted to become a lawyer.

I’m not saying she’s right. I may never be a mother, wife, or writer, but my venture to a palm reader was never about that. It’s about knowing that when someone looked at me, they saw something. In the universe Madame Veronica believes in, my palms will wear a ring, feed a child, and hold my book. The things we will become are not the things we are now, and that is why we get our 20s. Our time to become.

An Ode To My Velcro Vans

By Molly Chamberlain: Layout and Illustration by: Amelia Ferguson

There’s nothing quite like the sound of Velcro reverberating throughout a room. It doesn’t help that that sound typically resounds in a room of screaming toddlers. There’s nothing discreet about Velcro. In fact, it’s almost as if you want to be heard while constantly ripping the fabric strips apart from each other. And maybe I do want to be heard.

As women, we are taught to be silent and to wait in the shadows until it is our turn to speak. This ideology has left its imprint on me, as my self-consciousness is always the first insecurity to come to mind in deep conversations with my friends. But I was never taught this trait; I learned it. I learned it from my fifth-grade bully. I learned it from the models on my Pinterest feed. I learned it from the patriarchy that controls our society. I never would have thought that a pair of Velcro Vans would serve as the starting point for unlearning my insecurities.

Strapping my Velcro Vans from the safety of my bedroom doesn’t affect me. However, if I’m adjusting my Vans in class, I’m multi-tasking. I’m looking around to see if anyone heard the scratchy, high-pitched ripping sound of the tiny hooks and loops of the material disengaging from each other. But, I’m reclaiming those head turns. I’m reclaiming the attention that often makes me cower.

“I’m proud to be a woman”

I’m writing this as a thank you to my Velcro Vans for taking me places—taking me to the subway station, taking me to my job where the four-year-old I babysit has a matching pair, and most importantly, taking me beyond the stares and pressures of society. I’m proud to be a woman, in spite of the hypercritical head turns, and I will keep dancing through life as if no one’s watching— I have the perfect shoes to do just that.

Layout and Illustrations by Jenna Vanston

Thirty years ago, Vienna held the World Conference on Human Rights, which the Global Campaign for Women’s Human Rights took as an opportunity to fight for women to receive their inherent human rights. These women gave testimonials on human rights abuse in the family, war crimes against women, violations of women’s bodily integrity, socio-economic violations

Living in the United States, it may be easy to remove oneself from these situations that occurred in other countries or in the past. The recent overturning of Roe v. Wade in 2022 allowed us to see how U.S. women continue to face oppression. This Supreme Court’s decision took away a woman’s constitutional right to an abortion, putting the health and lives of women at risk. In turn, this decision takes away a woman’s right to her bodily autonomy. Along with fighting for reproductive rights, women still do not get equal pay or treatment in the workplace, and many women across the world are being trafficked, sexually exploited, and murdered. Even in the home, which is a site of safety and nurturance, one in three women experience physical violence. Women continue to be oppressed systemically and socially all over the world. There are numerous United Nations campaigns that fight for women’s rights. If you are unable to donate your time or money, another way we can help is by raising awareness on social media. Following @unwomen will allow you to stay educated about what is happening to women around the world. Sharing posts about women’s rights will spread that knowledge to more people who are willing to help. These are simple things we can implement into our lives to fight against violations of women’s human rights.

Madonna: daring to dress Brave

What is a woman in fashion? Madonna, a changemaker for womankind, has answered this question by simply being her own type of woman. She has taught us that a woman in fashion is a woman who defies gender norms, sexualization, and stereotypes. A woman in fashion is a woman who is unafraid. A woman in fashion is a woman who dares to be brave. Madonna gave women the opportunity to reconceptualize femininity by exemplifying for us what it means to be an unapologetic human who does not think twice about indulging in power and innovation.

Women have had to work hard to redefine the preconceived notions that are associated with the words feminine and fashion. Instilled ideologies make people’s minds jump to shades of pink, dainty dresses, or simplistic lace. Madonna helped revolutionize these misconceptions by pioneering grunge and Gothic stylistic choices. While her music career was taking off, she used performing as an opportunity to showcase the use of dark colors, fishnets, black lace, leather, metals, and metallics on a woman’s body. We can see these forms of fashion expressed in the majority of Madonna’s music videos, including “Papa Don’t Preach,” “Lucky Star,” and “The Groove.”

To give her looks full effect, Madonna would extravagantly accessorize with tousled hair, intense eye makeup, drastic belts, and her signature red lip. In addition to making accessories necessary staples, Madonna also made corsets cool, jumpsuits bold, and the cone bra iconic. In her music video for “Open Your Heart,” we see the powerful effect of the cone bra on full display and how it gives meaning to women’s bodies in an all-consuming, authentic way.

Through the art of fashion, Madonna has developed the message that grunge, Gothic, and edgy styles allow women to be daring with their dress and dismiss what the concept of fashion should mean in terms of a girl’s “womanhood.” Madonna has proven that you can be feminine and dress in a way that defies every norm while still embodying what it means to be a woman by dressing in a fearless fashion. Because that is exactly what it means to be a woman in fashion: fearless.

AUTHOR: JULIA LEEDOM

PHOTOGRAPHER: JUSTINA BRANDT

MAKEUP: NICOLE CASTANEDA

DERAMO, CIARA SHORE, KAREEN

KUMAR

BOGDAHN, AVA GRACE LIGHT WHI

LAYOUT: RACHEL ERICKSON

ACCESSORIZING V.S. ACCESSORIZING V.S. ACCESSORY ACCESSORY

Challenging the “Rockstar Girlfriend” Label

Written by Erin Penders

Silver jewelry, smokey eyes, and all things leather, the Rockstar Girlfriend aesthetic emulates the stylistic choices of powerful female rock icons from the 1960s. The title “Rockstar Girlfriend” creates the narrative that women are passive accessories to their performative counterparts. However, at its core, the Rockstar Girlfriend aesthetic is about utilizing accessories—not being one. The Rockstar Girlfriend aesthetic has been around since the birth of rock. Beginning in the 1950s, the real girlfriends of rockstars, often perceived as an accessory to male rockstars, wore more feminine pieces of the then-popular folk fashion.

Models: Natalia Cruz, Ally Nash, and Sara Morales

Makeup Artist: Caroline Abella

Photography: Wesley Scott Stylist: Erin Penders

Pa ie Boyd, who was in relationships with guitarist Eric Clapton and lead guitarist of The Beatles, George Harrison, is considered one of the most influential fashion icons of the ‘60s. Her respective relationships with the male rock icons contrasted their personal and musical style, and she was all but an accessory to them. Boyd’s style consisted of pastel and floral A-line dresses accented by her chic, feminine beauty rather than smudged makeup and chunky jewelry. This contrast in style to her romantic counterparts was not unique to Boyd. Other icons such as Christie Brinkley, Pa i Hensen, and Barbara Bach stuck to the popularized styles of the late 1900s and rarely deviated from the bohemian feminine look. Looking back into the relationships of rockstars, it is apparent that the girlfriends of rockstars weren’t the masterminds behind the Rockstar Girlfriend look. The grungy, leather-

The Rockstar Girlfriend aesthetic is meant to express a woman’s confidence and power through messy hair and platform boots; however, the title defines a woman’s power through their relationship with men. The title “Rockstar Girlfriend” creates a universe where men perform, and women appear to enhance a man’s image rather than embrace her own bold femininity. An aesthetic intending to empower should not be reduced to women dressing as passive accessories to their partners. Women who make bold and unique fashion choices are not dressing like this to be the girlfriends of rockstars—they are the rockstars.

Layout: Harmonie Chang

Location: Rods Coffee House

A boss owns their field, but a legend changes the game. British designer and fashion pioneer, Alexander McQueen, changed the fashion world with his legendary looks. He, unlike many others, was never a follower. He not only influenced fashion, but he put a spotlight on our world in its beauty and ugliness. To him, fashion was not only the clothes you wear, but a medium to express feelings through art. Here are some of Alexander McQueen’s most influential, original collections of his time:

“I don’t want to do a show feeling like you just had Sunday lunch.

I want you to come out feeling either repulsed or exhilarated, as long as it is an emotion”

- Alexander McQueen

During New York Fashion Week 1996, Alexander McQueen made his mark on the fashion industry with one of his first collections, “Dante.” What made the outfits stand out to people was the eeriness and darkness behind the runway show. The models were made to look like monsters, with giant horns on top of their heads and unsettling makeup. The outfits were filled with black lace and asymmetrical stitching, giving an unearthly feel to his looks. This darker, unusual collection was one of the first that put McQueen on the map.

One of McQueen’s most provocative collections was called “Untitled.” This collection debuted during the Spring/Summer 1998 season. This collection was very scandalous for the time as it featured skin-tight latex, revealing fabrics, and nudity, coining McQueen as the “bad boy” of the fashion industry.

McQueen’s 2010 collection, “Plato Atlantis,” was his interpretive take on Darwin’s evolution of man. The collection includes green and brown tones, representing life on land, and transitions to snake prints to shift into life under the sea. He uses blue and purple tones to present these aquatic animals and uses those same tones to show life beyond Earth.

Inspiration for his legendary style comes from the world around us. McQueen’s inclusion of light and dark and his commitment to battling misogyny and climate change confirm his position as a designer willing to stretch the boundaries of the fashion industry.

Illustrations By Alex Gallina

Layout By Anna Brown

Lily-Rose Depp: Redefining the Gothic Look

Lily-Rose Depp, the 24-year-old French-American muse, gives off that ‘it-girl’ vibe thanks to her unmistakably authentic look. She claims this title after her modeling career took off, and it’s clear that she has brought a unique sense of style that’s often dubbed Parisian elegance by the fashion world. If I had to sum up Depp’s style in just a few words, I’d go with eclectic, independent, and effortlessly chic, which I believe accentuates her signature French-American feminine style.

Lily-Rose embodies femininity through her style and wardrobe, with long, natural hair that alludes to her edgy street look – just toss it up in a messy bun, and you’re good to go. Depp’s style is a fusion of vintage sophistication with a dash of modern flair, and it’s all about expressing her unique energy. Depp has pledged her allegiance to maximizing her feminine side, from bodysuits to denim, strappy tank tops to diamonds, and leather jackets to a touch of dark eyeliner. She knows how to give her vintage style a rebellious twist, completing her look with minimal makeup and red nails as the cherry on top.

At first glance, Ms. Depp’s style is full of dark elegance, but she claims the title of ‘icon’ by going from red-carpet-ready to charming with ease. Open her wardrobe, and you’ll find black long-sleeve turtlenecks, medium-wash denim in different lengths, a dark bejeweled body tight dress, and funky prints paired with black sheer tights. In fact, Depp has shown off her spunky personality in a tiger print shirt and black and white checkered bathing suit.

Lily-Rose Depp, this generation’s it-girl, has redefined what it means to be a Gothic femininity icon while celebrating individuality. Her unique style has left an undoubtable mark, influencing not only her fans but also the fashion gurus of the world.

Written by: Fiona Dunphy

Layout By: Julia Leedom

Photographed by: Paridhi Pagariya

Modeled By: Fiona Dunphy, Aoife Harris, Sebastian Correa

Creative Director: Sophia Atalla

Rei Kawakubo

Rei Kawakubo is often referred to as the mother of modern fashion. Her early life was marked by her mother’s determination to become an English teacher, a choice that challenged societal norms. She admired her mother as a strong female role model during a time when such examples were rare.

Rei pursued her education in Fine Arts and Aesthetics at Keio University in Tokyo Minato City, Tokyo, Japan. After completing her studies, she embarked on a journey of independence, taking a marketing position at the textile company Sahi Kasei. She took a leap of faith in 1967, becoming a freelance stylist. In 1969, she founded her iconic label, “Comme des Garçons,” a phrase that translates to “like some boys.”

Rei Kawakubo’s influence on the world of fashion places her alongside other trailblazing women in the industry, such as Vivienne Westwood and Jeanne Lanvin.

Her avant-garde designs often explored asymmetry, making it a prominent feature in many of her collections. She questioned conventional notions, pondering why a jacket couldn’t have uneven proportions with three sleeves or none at all. In 1981, she introduced new styles and looks during a runway show in Paris, where she showed the world

Written by Kurt Sippel

her collections. Rei Kawakubo changed fashion normalities.She created an unconventional, entirely black collection that did not go along the curves and contours of the traditional female form. She layered her models in multiple fabrics, covering most of their bodies.

Kawakubo was also a strong businesswoman. She redefined the retail experience with Dover Street Market—a store that blurred the lines between a clothing store and an art gallery with locations spanning seven cities worldwide. This pioneering retail concept showcased over sixty designers alongside Kawakubo’s own Comme des Garçons products and served as a model for other stores. She fills this retail space with brands and companies that align with her vision. She gives small designers a chance to grow in this space, using her platform to spread awareness.

Kawakubo’s work is essential for us to appreciate and learn about because it teaches us that everyone is beautiful. As she stated herself, “No one shape, size or person is prettier than the other.”

Kawakubo’s work exemplifies how much believing in your own ideas and being confident in yourself can really make an impact on a person and their work.

Comme de Comme de

Photographer: Anna Brown Stylist: Warda Hassan

Makeup Artist: Nicole Castaneda

Models: Lauren Larsen, Rachel Erickson, Jenna Layout:Vanston Jenna Vanston

According to the UN, fashion accounts for about 8-10% of global carbon emissions annually. This is equivalent to about 1.2 billion tons of carbon dioxide a year. As consumers, we must be aware of our purchases’ impact on the environment. The low prices and short life cycles of garments are both problems, but our purchasing of them only adds to the damage. It is essential to realize that the most sustainable option is to not buy or buy secondhand clothing. While these two options are great, they only work for some. Many shoppers like to buy new clothing and get more life out of every garment. At the least, we must extend the life cycle of our garments; this can be through limiting purchases to basics, reducing washing and drying, or passing them on to a friend or family member. I find new sustainable brands through various online platforms that offer advice and information regarding ethical shopping. Some of my favorite sources are Good on You, Panaprium, and The Good Trade.

My personal favorite of the three, Good On You, is available online or as an app. They offer hundreds of fashion brand ratings (on a scale of 1-5) based on a combination of labor, environment, and animal ratings. Additionally, it provides informative blog posts about the ethics of brands, guides on shopping, and overall fashion. I would recommend this resource to beginner sustainable buyers as it offers quick and simple insight into brands through its rating system.

Panaprium is also a great source for sustainable fashion brands. The site mainly focuses on blog posts about sustainable and ethical shopping. The blog posts are more diverse than Good On You; they have dressing/ styling tips, general fashion blogs, and more. I would recommend this to people who enjoy reading and getting to know brands more indepth.

The Good Trade is a great source of overall sustainable brand information, focusing on fashion, beauty, and home. Their site offers blogs and suggestions about sustainability within fashion, beauty, and home. This sets it apart, as it is more holistic to sustainable living in general.

Written By: Sadie Keating

From the Costume Deparmentto Your Closet

Written by: Brooke Swenson

From Summer Roberts in The O.C. to Blair Waldorf in Gossip Girl, the television network The CW is known for producing female fashion icons. Ever since the lead of the network’s hit series The Vampire Diaries, Elena Gilbert, first appeared on screen in her signature flare jeans and a classic lace cami, she cemented herself as one of these icons, becoming a star of late 2000s style. Now, as the style from the show’s early seasons returns to popularity, individuals are once again seeking fashion inspiration from it. Amassing a cult fanbase at the height of the vampire craze of the late 2000s and early 2010s, the show certainly had enough popularity to influence the wardrobes of its watchers. As female leads appeared strolling the streets of Mystic Falls in low-waisted flare jeans, henley tops, long camis, and a variety of other styles reminiscent of the decade during which it premiered, the series’ loyal viewers flocked to recreate these looks. Even with the popularity of the show’s

Photographer: Annabelle Hochberg

Models: Mackenzie Neviaser, Kathrynn Ko- ness, Roxanne Fernandes

Stylist: Brooke Swenson

Layout: Caroline Abella

original style, it soon changed its stylistic direction to follow new trends emerging in the early 2010s.

However, the popularity of The Vampire Diaries never waned with its early fashion trends. Even today, fans, new and old, scramble to get tickets to one of the show’s many conventions, hoping for a chance to meet the cast or hear them talk. The show’s continued popularity, combined with the recent resurgence of 2000s fashion trends, has created the perfect storm to revive the show’s style. Today, the series is still one of the clearest examples of the influence of female characters on feminine fashion trends.

#TheVampireDiaries has amassed over five million posts on Instagram, and a plethora of TikTok users are still posting outfit recreations. Some are even looking for replicas of pieces worn by the characters.

As 2000s fashion continues its return to popularity, both new and old fans of The Vampire Diaries will continue to look to the girls on the show for fashion inspiration.

FELINE AND THE FEMININE FELINE AND THE FEMININE

BY: GABRIELLA NISCO

From Ancient Egypt to Taylor Swift, a constant in our global history rests on the spiritual and symbolic connection between a woman and a cat. The female has been associated with its feline companion from the sphinx to the Salem Witch Trials to pop culture today. Where did this connection come from, and what does it mean?

As lovers of dualism and spirituality, Ancient Egyptians established the connection between the feminine and the feline. Rather than silencing the power of cats like in today’s modern world, cats were worshiped and symbolized luck and fertility. As gentle and rigid creatures, cats are harmonious and balance both spectrums of dualism.

Without giving into this dualistic patriarchy, cats and women genuinely go hand in hand. Cats are undeniably poised, moving fluidly with a presence of power and belonging. They can lash out and have rigid moments, but deep down are graceful, warm, and maternal.

Cats and women lost their cultural sacredness and respect somewhere between Ancient Egypt and the 16th century. As witches surrounded themselves with cats, society associated their pets with evil spirits. Similar to the independence of a cat, witches (and women) have demonstrated that they will not succumb to submission and reject being controlled. Possibly, any negative preconceptions of cats within the past few centuries were conceived from fearing the power of unleashed women.

Studies have shown that both women and cats are highly intuitive, possessing the power to assess environments with little communication. This biological attraction between cats and women may foster physical and spiritual connection because the two echoes divine feminine energy. From the soft touch, gentle voices, and motherly instincts, the essence of femininity lives inside the cat and vice versa. The feline and feminine is a life-long relationship with no ending that deserves to be celebrated.

In the words of the infamous Salt-N-Pepa, “Let’s Talk About Sex”—more specifically, sex in the rap industry. Themes of sex, pleasure, and the female body aren’t a novelty in the rap genre; in fact, it’s a topic that one could argue has kind of become synonymous with it. From Sir Mix-a-Lot’s “Baby Got Back” to Tyga’s “Rack City,” men have been singing about their innermost sexual thoughts and women’s bodies, vulgarity be damned.

Over the past couple of years, we’ve seen a resurgence of a genre coined ‘p*ssy rap’ where women rappers are rapping about their own bodies and sexual desires. The genre is all about women embracing their femininity and sexual prowess. ‘P*ssy rap’ was pioneered by and is still currently dominated by black women. Black women have consistently been, and continue to be, hypersexualized in the media. Artists like Salt-N-Pepa, Missy Elliot, and Lil Kim were some of the first women in rap to really talk about female pleasure and take back their bodily autonomy and sexual identities. Similarly, current tastemakers like Nicki Minaj, Megan Thee Stallion, and City Girls’ music situates them in a position of dominance. For instance, Megan Thee Stallion’s “Big Ol’ Freak” and City Girls’s “Rodeo” are sex-positive anthems that center female pleasure for a change. Women are in control: they know what they want, and they’re not afraid to ask for it.

Though their lyrics are no more raunchy than those of their male counterparts, their music is vilified while the men rapping about the same things are praised and make it onto everybody’s aux’s. It’s a story as old as time of society devaluing and reviling the female gaze, especially when that gaze belongs to black women. It’s 2023, so why is it that we are still so scared of a strong woman, a woman who is aware of her sexuality and owns it? Because, at the end of the day, it’s not just about sex. As a society, we have a habit of belittling, demeaning, and silencing black women. All this to say, It makes me wonder if there’s value in including ‘p*ssy rap’ in the larger conversation around intersectional feminism.

The Allure of

In the problematic underbelly of today’s aesthetic culture exists an opposition to the idea that health equals beauty. Instead of a youthful glow, some idealize the look of sickness and malnutrition. Think Timothee Chalamet, Anya-Taylor Joy, or anyone who has ever been fancast for a Tim Burton live-action film. Sunken eyes and gaunt cheeks are staples of the popularized “heroin chic” and “coque e” looks. Yet both of these fads glorify addiction and disease. Although the aestheticization of sickness and its alignment with fashion transcends gender, the idea of illness as beautiful is predominantly feminine. There is a pervasive fascination with the image of the “sick girl,” an ethereal and submissive form of femininity often glamorized by both men and women.

This trend began in the Victorian era, at the height of the tuberculosis epidemic. Women strived to achieve a sort of pallor, paleness, and feverish blush–symptoms equated with tuberculosis, all of which worked to uphold feminine ideals of fragility and demureness. Simultaneously, the 19th century produced a fascination with “fasting girls” -- children forced to abstain from food and water for long periods of time. Parents put these daughters on display for profit. The idea of a bedridden girl fed into the cultural belief that women were delicate and fragile.

This phenomenon is not solely contained in history but also permeates modern makeup trends and aesthetics. Notably, the age of “heroin chic” fed into feminine beauty ideals of fragility and illness through the harmful popularization of eating disorders, creating a visual of sunken eyes and caved cheeks. This romanticism of the dainty coque e seems to be another way to make female fragility an aesthetic. The bizarre history of sickness as a beauty trend has been fed repeatedly by patriarchal ideas of femininity as submissive, damaging women’s self-esteem and physical health. Modern media sustains these standards, creating further harm. Makeup, fashion, and aesthetics are remarkable tools for self-expression but should not equate feminine beauty to docility or fragility. If we abide by aesthetics that uphold these ideals, does this mean we have abandoned our self-expression and fallen into conformity instead?

Author and Stylist : Rachel Erickson

Photographer : Sophia Rivera- Korver

Makeup Artist : Audrey Hoffman

Models : Molly Chamberlain, Meghan Mahaffey, Caroline Abella

Layout : Lucia Marino

the Sick Chick

Layout by Liz Lemieux

Photography by Stephanie Lane

Styled by Natalia Alvarez

Makeup by Nicole Castaneda

RETURN of the SMOKEY EYE

Written by Caralena Cancel

It’s official: “no makeup makeup” is out, and the sultry, smokey-eye is back. Fall 2023 marks the end of the “clean girl” aesthetic as we see casual eyeshadow incorporated back into the beauty trends. Day or night, a smokey-eye adds an edgy – yet elegant addition to any look. Whether it be Alix Earle at the Espy’s or the Jenna Ortega effect, dark eye looks have been re-incorporated into everyday fashion in the city.

No matter who you associate it with, the smokey-eye is an undeniably iconic look dating back to ancient Egyptian history. 1920s Hollywood left actresses like Marlene Dietrich mixing soot from burnt candles on set with Vaseline to pioneer the modern smokey-eye look.

Fictional it-girls like Effy Stoneam showed there was something absolutely chic about a messy, carefree eye shadow look that appeared as if it could’ve been from the night before. And how could we forget the New York fashionista Jenny Humphry and her signature look? The 2020 renaissance of the Y2K era led to the uproar of black eyeliner and cat eye looks. This fall, New York is truly channeling Gossip Girl and embracing all of the looks, whether the smokeyeye or the simply edgy-preppy fashion that comes with it.

Although today’s smokey-eye looks have been more diffused than Jenny Humphry or Effy Stonem’s stark looks from the past, black has made its way into many relevant looks today. Whether it be eyeliner or shadow, the smokey eye is back and maybe to stay.