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ON THE ROAD Editor of collection Laura Andreini
editorial project Forma Edizioni srl, Firenze, Italia redazione@formaedizioni.it www.formaedizioni.it editorial production Archea Associati scientific direction Laura Andreini author Matteo Moscatelli editorial staff Valentina Muscedra Maria Giulia Caliri graphic design Silvia Agozzino Elisa Balducci Alberto Bolzonetti Vitoria Muzi Mauro Sampaolesi translations Katy Hannan photolithography Art and Pixel srl, Florence printing Gutenberg Press Limited, Gudja Road, Tarxien, Malta PLA 19
Š 2015 Forma Edizioni srl, Firenze All rights reserved, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior permission in writing of the publisher. First Edition: April 2015 ISBN 978-88-96780-80-0
texts by Laura Andreini Maria Grazia Folli Matteo Moscatelli Lorenzo Spagnoli Giacomo Albo [41-65] Daniele Bonzagni [52-67] Giulia Canavotto [46] Narghes Doust [42-72] Michela Fumagalli [59-73] Francesco Menegatti [24-80] Stefano Moscatelli [12-17] Lucia Paci [37] Mario Redaelli [43-53] Michele Roda [32-35] Eleonora Salsa [23-44] Eugenia Silvestri [50-82] we would like to thank Giacomo Albo Marco Introini Paola Ricas Maddalena Tibertelli de Pisis for their collaboration
Table of contents
Guide as a tool 4 Milan 5 Political and geographic overview General information Useful tips
6 7 8
The most significant stages of urban structure in Milan
10
Twentieth century architecture in Milan
12
Milan 2000-2015, a changing skyline, urban renewal and evolving forms of habitation
14
Milan skyline
16
Strategies for visiting Milan 20 Routees 22 Milan City Centre 24 Garibaldi-Repubblica-Porta Venezia 74 Consolidated urban areas 104 Greater Milan – North East 144 Greater Milan 174 Museums 212 Theatres 213 Restaurants 214 Hotels 215 Architectural offices 216 Index by architects Index by projects
218 220
Transport 223
Political / geographical facts
country Italy
area 181,67 sq. km
language italian
population 1,336,364
area code +39 02
density 7,356 inhabitants / sq.km
coordinates 45 28' 38'' N 9° 10' 53'' E
time zone UTC+1 city website www.comune.milano.it
Administrative districts 9
2
8
3
7
1
4
6 5
6
1. Milan City Centre 2. Central Station, Gorla, Turro, Greco, Crescenzago 3. Città Studi, Lambrate, Venezia 4. Vittoria, Forlanini 5. Vigentino, Chiaravalle, Gratosoglio 6. Barona, Lorenteggio 7. Baggio, De Angeli, San Siro 8. Fiera, Gallaratese, San Leonardo, Quarto Oggiaro 9. Garibaldi Station, Niguarda
General information useful addresses and numbers
INFORMATION OFFICES InfoMilano Tourist Office Galleria Vittorio Emanuele corner of Piazza della Scala +39 02 88455555 Mon – Fri / 9 am – 7 pm Sat / 9 am – 6 pm Sun. and holidays / 10 am – 6pm 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 1 May / closed Central Station Info counter Departure hall – side track 21 +39 02 77404318 / 4319 Mon-Fri / 9 am – 5 pm Sat, Sun, holidays / 9 am – 12 pm 25 Dec, 1 Jan, 1 May / closed Fondazione Riccardo Catella (Porta Nuova area Infopoint) Via Gaetano De Castillia, 28 +39 02 45475195 / 96 Mon- Fri / 12.30 pm -2.30 pm Sat / 10 am – 1 pm and 2 pm -5 pm EMERGENCY SERVICES Carabinieri 112 Police 113 Emergency medical service 118 Fire Department 115 24-hour Pharmacy 800 801185 URBAN TRANSPORT* Bus e Tram Tickets : can be bought from ATM Points, ATM Milano Official App, bars, news-stands and Tabacchi (cigarette) stores www.atm.it Metropolitana (4 city lines) Tickets: can be bought from ATM Points, ATM Milano Official App, bars, news-stands and Tabacchi (cigarette) stores www.atm.it Passante ferroviario (11 suburban lines) Tickets: For urban sections: from bus, tram and subway sales points. For suburban sections, tickets from railway stations
Taxi +39 02 6969; +39 02 4040; +39 02 6767 Bicycle rentals BikeMi Automatic bike rental with subscription (annual, weekly, or daily) from their website, via mobile website, at ATM Points or Infoline www.bikemi.com General Consulate of CHINA Via Benaco, 4 - 20139 Milan +39 02 5694106 GENERAL CONSULATE OF FRANCE Via della Moscova, 12 - 20121 Milan +39 02 6559141 GENERAL CONSULATE OF GERMANY Via Solferino, 40 - 20121 Milan +39 02 6559141 GENERAL CONSULATE OF GREAT BRITAIN Via San Paolo, 7 - 20121 Milan +39 02 723001 GENERAL CONSULATE OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION Via Sant’Aquilino, 3 - 20148 Milan +39 02 723001 GENERAL CONSULATE OF THE UNITED STATES Via Principe Amedeo 2/10 - 20121 Milan + 39 02 290351 HOW TO PHONE From a local landline: dial the area code (02) and then the number From a foreign landline: dial the international code (+39), area code (02) and the number
* Ticket categories: Urban tickets, Day pass, Two-day pass. RicaricaMi Pass: Four different types of ticket can be recharged on this pass. Rho Fiera Milano: A special ticket is required. Air Bus: Shuttle bus service between Linate Airport and the Central Station.
7
Milan 2000-2015, a changing skyline, urban renewal and evolving forms of habitation Matteo Moscatelli* Unlike the 1990s, which was marked by a period of stagnation caused by several factors (beginning with the judicial events of 1992) the last fifteen years have represented a turning point in Milan thanks to widespread transformations that have involved areas with a range of different problems (city centre, consolidated city, suburbs) and multiple aspects (empty spaces, urban blocks, districts). Although it is not easy to provide a conclusive picture of the changes because of the diversity of type and application and because many projects are still underway, it is possible to recognise certain recurring themes that have formed the basis for the proposed projects. The first and most immediately noticeable aspect that is even more evident when viewing Milan from high-lying points in the surrounding region is the change in the urban skyline; the iconic buildings that have dominated the urban profile for over sixty years (the Torre Velasca and Pirelli Tower above all) are now flanked and surpassed by new vertical buildings destined both for business (Torre Unicredit) and habitation (Torre Tirana), located in the city centre (Palazzo Lombardia) and in the suburbs (Torre RCS). Some are representative of the history and constructive traditions of the area (Edifici al Portello), as well as more general fields of research, not simply local (the Bosco Verticale), or limited to the “signatures” of their designers (City life). The second aspect to be emphasised, not only because of the ground conservation policy that is aimed at giving precedence to brownfield redevelopment rather than new occupation of greenfield areas, but also the desire to recover certain strategic spaces, concerns the regenerating nature of certain projects whose interest mainly consists of the coexistence of multi-scalar environments. In fact, on one hand the city is undergoing a series of master plans on a huge scale, like those involving Bicocca, Portello, the ex-Fiera zone and the Garibaldi-Varesine-Isola area. On the other hand, especially in the city’s historical centre, there has been an increase of works on a smaller scale on existing buildings, focussed on technological and functional redevelopment (La Serenissima), change of function (Excelsior concept store), change of function and extension (Bi-La Fabbrica del Gioco e delle Arti), or faithful reconstruction of original buildings that had been destroyed (Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea). A third aspect concerns the type of intervention under consideration, because, unlike the past, it seems that certain opportunities for experimentation are making a come-back, even in areas destined for culture and habitation. The launching of cultural projects has been sustained by the creation of new educational buildings (CDD Centro per disabili), buildings for social projects and associations (Incubatore dell’Arte), but above all for expanding exhibition space (Museo del Novecento, Gallerie d’Italia, 14
Museo delle Culture, and the newly-established Feltrinelli and Prada foundations) as well as the interventions for the redevelopment and integration of the theatres in Milan (including the Teatro alla Scala, Teatro degli Arcimboldi, Teatro Franco Parenti ,and the Teatro Nazionale). Research on habitation has become a question of increasing importance in light of the housing emergency caused by the loss of income by the weaker sectors of society, the increase in medium and long-term redundancy, the increase in the number of single parent families, and old and inadequate existing housing. Although this problem has been dealt with only in part, with a large amount of potential still to be developed, in recent years several housing scheme contests have been held and realised (such as Abitare a Milano 1 and 2, Housing in Via Cenni, Housing Contest) which have generated positive opportunities for debate and which have involved private and public participants (Municipal and Regional Authorities, real estate funding, associations, cooperatives, and business companies). Although these examples demonstrate how the current urban situation is composed of widespread and diversified projects, it seems appropriate to add two further in-depth reflections on what has been achieved and what is underway. The first reflection concerns the “possible� Milan and what the city could have become, composed of a well-documented file of alternative proposals for areas that concern areas from the ex-Fiera to the Expo 2015 zones, the Bicocca and Milanofiori areas, and a range of operations that have not been realised or have been suspended, such as the BEIC project in Porta Vittoria and the Santa Giulia district. These projects lead to reflection on old vicissitudes on one hand, and also because careful analysis of the reasons that led to the identification and hierarchisation of certain themes demonstrate how great the expectations and needs of the community and financial promoters were in relation to the transformation of the city. The second reflection involves the Milan of the future and what the city will become. The size and location of areas like the railway stations, decommissioned military barracks, and the spaces used by Expo after its conclusion predict how future development will depend not only on the imminent operational start-up of projects that are currently work sites underway or near termination, but also the results of reflection on a range of urban voids whose strategic importance demands a far greater multi-scale view in future debates, and a constantly evolving and more farsighted vision. * Architect and PhD. Teaches university courses at Politecnico University and IED Design in Milan.
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01. Palazzo dell'Arte Viale Emilio Alemagna 6 20121 Milan open to public
www.triennale.it
M1 Cadorna
61 Viale Alemagna
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The Palazzo dell’Arte, location of the Triennale since 1933 (transferred here from the original location, Villa Reale in Monza), is located inside Parco Sempione, on the boundary of the Ferrovie Nord property. In chronological order, it represents the last of the series of public monumental buildings composed of the Castello Sforzesco, the Arco della Pace and the Arena. The building has a rectangular structure, and on one of the shorter sides is semi-circular theatre and gallery. There are two symmetrical porticos on the longer sides, accessing Viale Alemagna on one side and overlooking the Park on the other. The building has three storeys with very high ceilings, dimensioned to accommodate the staging for art exhibitions, and is composed of a reinforced concrete structure clad in traditional materials (Baveno pink granite) as well as more innovative elements (clinker). The construction has undergone several interventions; the most recent being the Galleria della Triennale (by Gae Aulenti) to house spaces equipped for temporary exhibitions, and the common areas (by Michele De Lucchi) with the new bookshop, cafÊ-restaurant, and Museo del Design.
Š Marco Introini
Milan City Centre
architects Giovanni Muzio
type museum
construction 1932-1933 31
22. La Serenissima Office Building Via Filippo Turati 25-27 20121 Milan external viewing only
1 Largo Donegani Turati M3 M3 Turati
© Park Associati
43 Turati M3
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This project refers to the renovation of an existing building, known as “Palazzo Campari”, designed by the Soncini brothers, Ermenegildo and Eugenio, in the 1960s. It has a five storey curtain wall facade facing Via Turati, and three floors on Via Cavalieri overlooking Ca’ Brütta. The intervention involved bringing the construction up to current energy and construction standards: the perimeter facades were moved back from street level, creating cavities to eliminate heat bridges, and a series of perforated press-folded, burnished, aluminium boxes were added to the facade, acting as “nocturnal lanterns” giving the building strong visual impact when lit at night. The ground floor footprint was increased, while leaving the internal greenplanted courtyard intact according to the original design. Inside the building, the project aimed at creating new distribution and increased flexibility in the internal office spaces by optimising the horizontal and vertical space.
Š Andrea Martiradonna
Milan City Centre
architects Park Associati
type offices
construction 2010-2012 73
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28. Palazzo Lombardia Piazza CittĂ di Lombardia 1 20124 Milan external viewing only
M2 Gioia
Š Pei Cobb Freed & Partners
60/728 Via Gioia - Via Galvani
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The project for Palazzo Lombardia was created to incorporate the offices of the Regione Lombarda (Lombardy Regional Authority) which had been previously located in various buildings around the city; it is composed of three elements: the 43-storey tower 161 metres tall, the seven and eight storey base buildings, and the linear garden areas. While the plan of the open spaces is based on a Cartesian layout, recalling the irrigation systems in the plains to the south of the city, the organic forms of the buildings evoke the mountain ranges to the north: the complex recalls towering mountains divided by deep valleys and riverbeds crossing the covered open space considered the heart of the complex and opened up to the city for events and performances. Research into environmental sustainability resulted in the use of double skin climatic walls, living green roofs, heating pumps run on groundwater, and solar panels. Compared to the enclosed, convex single structure of the Pirelli Tower, until now considered the symbolic icon of Milan’s skyline, the Palazzo Lombardia aims at a complementary concept, with a dual form, both open and concave.
Š Fernando Guerra | FG+SG
Garibaldi-Repubblica-Porta Venezia
architect Pei Cobb Freed & Partners
type offices
construction 2004-2013 87
42. Libeskind Apartment Complex Via Ambrogio Spinola, Viale Berengario 20149 Milan external viewing only
www.city-life.it
M1 Amendola Fiera
68 Amendola Fiera M1
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The residential zone designed by Libeskind is composed of eight buildings (five have been completed and three will be finished by 2017) with heights that vary between four and thirteen storeys and with a total of 380 apartment units. The group is part of the elegant CityLife complex, between Piazza Giulio Cesare and Piazza Amendola. Facing the north, the buildings overlook the new public park with panoramic views of the Alps, while the views towards the south face the historical city centre. Libeskind has interpreted the traditional configuration of the old courtyard housing of Milan proposing buildings that curve gently around a common space, conceived as a relaxing area guaranteeing residents tranquillity and peace of mind. The facades are cladded with a fine weave of pale grey tiles and the fluid line of the highly ecosustainable irregular wooden brise-soleil structures create a dynamic effect on the external walls. Double-height attic apartments designed like individual houses are set on the top of each building. These are authentic sky villas featuring a range of different geometrical configurations, large terraces, luxury finishes and extraordinary views over the city.
Š Michele Nastasi
Consolidated urban areas
architects Daniel Libeskind, Marco Piva
type residential
construction 2010-2013
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66. Bi - La Fabbrica del Gioco e delle Arti Via Gianni Rodari 3 20032 Cormano open to public
www.bilafabbrica delgiocoedellearti.it
S4 Cusano Milanino
172
This prize-winning project of the architectural contest in 2004 deals with the renovation of the cotton mill in the small industrial town of Cormano, transformed in 1999 in a new residential neighbourhood. The intervention consisted of a redevelopment scheme aimed at repurposing the building; the demolition work was limited to only the strictly necessary, conserving walls and flooring, with the insertion of new exhibition spaces and areas for learning activities. Since the existing spaces were not very flexible because of the limited changes made to the original building, additional volume was added to the main structure to house a flexible theatrical space that could be used for multiple purposes. From this viewpoint, the building was conceived like a huge chest of drawers from which further elements can be pulled out like containers for games and toys. The building features several playful elements such as the zebra-striped facade and the arrangement of irregular columns not connected for any structural reasons.
Š Ernesta Caviola
Greater Milan - North East
architects 5+1AA
type library, studios, exhibition, theatre
construction 2005-2010
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80. Milanofiori Nord Apartment Building Via Roggia Bartolomea 20090 Assago external viewing only
M2 Assago Milanofiori
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352 Assago Milanofiori M2
204
This building is part of a much larger urban project that includes office buildings, a hotel, restaurants, and a movie theatre in an area close to Assago, on the south side of Milan. The building has a C-shaped footprint and encircles a public park area overlooked by 110 apartments, all designed with double aspect windows and views. The side facing the street is more enclosed, and features sliding openwork wooden panels that screen sunlight into the apartments, while the internal facade is composed of large glazed surfaces and deep terraces that overlook the common garden area to create a continuation between inside and outside space. The internal-external transition is increased by a “winter garden�, zone between the apartment and the terrace that changes the living space according to the seasons. Bioclimatic control of the whole complex is guaranteed by the tiered design that provides maximum exposition to sun while maintaining the privacy of the inhabitants. The project is designed to internalise the surrounding area, a densely populated urban landscape, by working to support the aims proposed by the project: the interconnection between the use of technology and the successful outcome of the intervention.
Š Mariela Apollonio
Greater Milan
architects OBR Open Building Research
type residential
construction 2005-2010
205
81. Nestlé Headquarters Via del Mulino 6 20090 Assago external viewing only
M2 Assago Milanofiori
© Park Associati
352 Assago Milanofiori M2
206
This project was based on an analysis of the articulated access system to the Milanofiori area, the inclusion of pedestrian and cycling paths, and the integration with the master plan design. The complex is based on an enclosed courtyard layout conceived like a “secret garden” for the exclusive use of the employees, but providing extensive views for those using the pedestrian and cycling paths. While the footprint of the building is compact and rational, from the facade perspective, it is divided into several blocks forming a more fragmented composition. The structure is divided into different portions designed like “suspended boxes” of various sizes and set at different heights and at slightly different angles. The building entrance faces a semi-urban piazza, and forms the continuation of the pedestrian access from south-west connected to the Metropolitan underground station, while vehicular traffic is directed to the opposite side of the complex in an area screened by an embankment; the raised level is encased in the terrain to create a private internal space that contains the blocks with the main services, set at different levels.
Š Andrea Martiradonna
Greater Milan
architects Park Associati
type offices
construction 2012-2014 207
Index by architects 5+1AA 5+1AA, Pietri Architects Alessandro Scandurra – Scandurra Studio Architettura Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel and Partners Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel and Partners, Anna Giorgi and Partners Arassociati Archea Associati Asnago, Vender Ateliers Jean Nouvel BBPR, Arturo Danusso Boeri Studio Boeri Studio, Barreca & La Varra Carlo Aymonino, Aldo Rossi Cino Zucchi Architetti Consalez Rossi Architetti Associati Daniel Libeskind, Marco Piva Daniel Libeskind, Zaha Hadid, Arata Isozaki + Andrea Maffei David Chipperfield Architects Dominique Perrault architecture Donato Bramante Filarete, Guiniforte Solari, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, Francesco Maria Richini Franco Albini, Franca Helg Gabetti & Isola, Guido Drocco Gio Ponti, Antonio Fornaroli, Eugenio Soncini Gio Ponti, Antonio Fornaroli, Alberto Rosselli, Giuseppe Valtolina, Egidio Dell'Orto, Arturo Danusso, Pier Luigi Nervi Giovanni Muzio Giovanni Muzio, Vittorino Colonnese, Pier Fausto Barelli Giuseppe De Finetti Giuseppe Pagano, Giovanni Muzio, Ignazio and Jacopo Gardella 218
Bi - La Fabbrica del Gioco e delle Arti / 66 Renovation of the former Palazzo dei Frigoriferi Milanesi / 53 Horizontal Office Block Tower / 71 MAC 9 - Zurich Headquarters / 64
172 142
Salaino 10 Apartment Buildings / 45
126
Lomazzo 52 Apartment Buildings / 37
110
Bertieri 4 / 78 Apartment Building in Via Maestri Campionesi / 52 Perfetti Van Melle Factory / 67 Apartment Building in Viale Tunisia / 24 Excelsior Milano / 16 The Velasca Tower / 09 Incubatore dell’Arte / 29 Bosco Verticale (Vertical Forest) / 30 RCS Headquarters / 57 “Monte Amiata” Apartment Complex / 74 Corso Como, Corte Verde Apartment Complex / 34 Church of the Resurrection of Jesus / 58 Social Housing at Portello / 75 “Living in Milan” project – Via Civitavecchia / 56 Libeskind Apartment Complex / 42 The Citylife Towers / 40
200 140 178 78 60 46 88 90 154 192 98 156 194 152 120 116
Museo delle Culture / 46 NH Hotel Fiera / 72 Santa Maria presso San Satiro / 11 Ospedale Maggiore - Ca' Granda / 08
128 188 50 44
Renovation of the Milan Metropolitan stations for lines 1 and 2 / 03 Fifth Building for ENI Office Complex / 83 The Montecatini Office Building / 20
186 168
34 210 68
The Pirelli Skyscraper / 25
80
Palazzo dell'Arte / 01 Ca' Brütta / 21
30 70
Casa della Meridiana / 07 Bocconi University / 48
42 132
Grafton Architects Gregotti Associati Guiniforte Solari, Donato Bramante Herzog & de Meuron Ignazio Gardella Kenzo Tange Kohn Pedersen Fox LAND Milano srl, Edaw Lissoni Associati Luigi Caccia Dominioni Luigi Figini Luigi Moretti MAB arquitectura Mario Botta, Elisabetta Fabbri Mario Botta, Giancarlo Marzorati Mario Cucinella Architects Massimiliano and Doriana Fuksas Michele De Lucchi Nemesi&Partners OBR Open Building Research Oscar Niemeyer Park Associati Pei Cobb Freed and Partners Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects Piero Bottoni Piero Portaluppi Pietro Lingeri, Giuseppe Terragni Piuarch Quattroassociati Remo Dorigati_OdA Associati Renzo Piano Building Workshop, architects ROSSIPRODI ASSOCIATI Sauerbruch Hutton Stefano Boeri, Richard Burdett, Jacques Herzog, William McDonough and Joan Busquets, Società Expo 2015 Studio Albori Studio Italo Rota & Partners Studio Valle Architetti Associati
New Aula Magna Auditorium and Department Building at Bocconi University / 49 Redevelopment of the Bicocca Area and the Teatro degli Arcimboldi / 60 Santa Maria delle Grazie / 04 Feltrinelli Porta Volta / 36 Padiglione di Arte Contemporanea / 19 New BMW Headquarters / 82 Diamond Tower / 35 Public Spaces Porta Nuova Garibaldi, Porta Nuova Varesine, Porta Nuova Isola / 33 Teatro Nazionale / 44 Residential Apartments in Piazza Carbonari / 27 Residential Home in the Villaggio dei Giornalisti / 62 Residential and Office Block Complex in Corso Italia / 10 “Living in Milan” project – Via Gallarate / 73 Renovation of the Teatro alla Scala / 14 New Campari Central Headquarters / 59 3M Headquarters / 54 New Milan Trade Fair / 70 Gallerie d'Italia - Piazza Scala / 15 Renovation of the Franco Parenti Theatre / 51 Italian Pavilion Milan Expo 2015 / 69 Milanofiori Nord Apartment Building / 80 Mondadori Headquarters / 55 La Serenissima Office Building / 22 Nestlé Headquarters / 81 Palazzo Lombardia / 28 Unicredit Headquarters / 31 INA Apartment Buildings / 39 Villa Necchi Campiglio / 17 Milan Planetarium / 18 Casa Rustici / 38 D&G Headquarters / 23 Porta Nuova Building / 32 Piazza Tirana Apartment Tower / 79 “Living in Milan” project – Via Senigallia / 65 Il Sole 24 Ore Headquarters / 43
134 160 36 102 66 208 100 96 124 84 164 48 190 56 158 148 184 58 138 182 204 150 72 206 86 92 114 62 64 112 76 94 202 170 122
Social Housing in Via Cenni / 76 MAC 5-6-7 / 63 Expo Master plan 2015 / 68
196 166 180
Apartment Building in Porta Romana / 50 Museo del Novecento / 12 Deutsche Bank / 61
136 52 162 219
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