winter 2016
Andrea Bocelli
Display Until March 1
2
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
3
WINTER 2016 The 1st and only Men’s Fashion & Lifestyle Magazine from Italy. Awarded 2014 Hottest Magazine Launch!
Cover Andrea Bocelli
Editor in Chief Francesco Di Maio
PR & Communications Federica Fatale
HAIR & GROOMING Francesco Cilidonio—Cily Hairstylist
Graphic Design Cecilia Giménez de Paz - cgimenezdepaz@gmail.com
Photo Credits Automobili Lamborghini (pp. 6-7) Diego Cervo, shutterstock.com (pp. 82-83) Mirko Ugo/Ente Parco (pp. 74-81) Inna Race, Private Paparazzi Productions (pp. 86-87, 88-89, 90-91, 92-93) Mikhail Veter (pp. 84-85, 94-95, 96-97, 98-99)
Contact Info info@uomo-moderno.com Website: uomo-moderno.com Uomo Moderno is a quarterly publication of Men’s Fashion by Francesco LLC. ISSN 2329-9258 © 2015, All Rights Reserved
4
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
New Lamborghini Huracรกn Lp 610-4 Spyder Front Open
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
5
what’s inside
Contents 10
Cover Story Andrea Bocelli
FASHION
22 Aeronautica Militare A Symbol of National Pride
Husband. Father. Philanthropist.
28 Tatras Japanese Design— Italian Craftsmanship— Polish Down
34 Grinko Made in Italy with a Twist
38 Pence By Dora Zecchin
44 Gate64 When All Hope Seems Lost
6
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
FASHION
Grooming
events
48
56
86
Rumjungle
Frozen Party
Two Years Later
By Cily Hairstylist
Uomo Moderno’s Fashion Show from Italy
52 Roberto Collina A Continental Divide
CUISINE
62
sports
18 Massimiliano Rosolino
Distillers in Veneto Since 1898
New York Fashion Week A Night of Cabaret
92
Distillers in Friuli Since 1897
Grappa Poli
88
For Nazionale Italiana
Grappa Nonino
66
The New Generation Fashion Tour
TRAVEL
74 Achipelago La Maddalena 62 Islands and Islets of Paradise
The Philadelphia Collection Under the Disco Lights
96 Music City of Pastele
70 Grappa Marolo The Grape Doesn’t Fall Far from the Vine
81 Zuppa di Pesce Fish Stew à La Maddalena
BOOKS
82
98 The Fashion Vignette Caleb Alexander
Red in Italy The Book about Italy No Traveler Will Ever Write Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
7
Benvenuti! Welcome to the 2016 Winter Edition of Uomo Moderno!
We often read and hear about country-of-origin labels So if cotton and wool fabrics do not originate from Italy, like Made in the USA or Made in China, but what do they shouldn’t we redefine the finished product as Sewn in really mean? I guess it all depends on who you talk to. Italy, since its components are not really Made in Italy? Many governments impose some sort of standard, such as Then, where do we draw the line? percentages of local components and/or production costs.
As globalization
advances, we will need a longer list of phrases like Grown in X, Fed with products from X, Weaved in X, Designed in X,
To me the whole subject is very muddled, subjective, Manufactured in X, Assembled in X, Finished in X, Packaged and all quite suspicious, due to the complexities in in X, and so on. manufacturing processes, the global supply chain, and a lack of international standardization. Then, there are If we were truly honest with ourselves, we would openly the lax rules and vague standards, not to mention the admit that we don’t care where our clothing is made, as long lists of exemptions! Tracking and quantifying have long as we buy better, cheaper, faster, and more of it as become nearly impossible!
often as our hearts desire. Of course we all want jobs to return to our own countries, but at whose expense?
Made in Italy is no different. Surely for some items like foodstuffs and beverages, it’s slightly easier to have In this issue, I raise numerous questions about Made in a final product that is 100% Made in Italy: cows born disclosures as I feature a Russian designer living in Italy, and raised on the peninsula, fed Italian grown fodder, Japanese coats whose down is Polish but designed in Italy, producing milk for Italian cheeses—all Made in Italy.
and an Italian Olympic swimmer whose mother is Australian. Now what if more than 50% of his DNA were Australian?
But what about the numerous clothing manufacturers that lay claim to 100% Made in Italy? How much more Undoubtedly Made in Italy is a symbol of tradition, ludicrous to lay claim to a more restrictive area of craftsmanship, and prestige. Therefore, it should be well exclusive origin like 100% Made in Naples?! Maybe I’ve defined and carefully protected. So will the real Made in missed something, but I haven’t seen many cotton farms Italy please stand up? on the peninsula, and I surely haven’t seen any alpacas running around the hinterland of most cities!
8
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
Francesco
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
9
Andrea Bocelli
Husband. Father. PhilaNthropist.
10
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
andrea bocelli
Feature Story
When did you first sense a passion for classical music? It has always accompanied me; it’s an innate passion, probably written in my chromosomes. They say that, already in the cradle as soon as I heard a piece of classical music, I stopped crying.
Do you remember your first live concert? The small church of Lajatico, with its organ, is the place where I had the thrill of listening to live music for the first time.
How about the first record you bought? As for records, up to the age of eighteen my purchases were always tied to the classical repertoire (and preferably lyrical). The first ones that I began to consume on the turntable at home were those dedicated to the voices of Beniamino Gigli, Mario Del Monaco, Enrico Caruso…. One day my nanny Oriana gave me a record that featured the famous One Day in Azure Space in Andrea Chénier by Umberto Giordano and interpreted by Franco Corelli. I was literally bewitched by that voice: I was a child, but that listening played no little influence on my future. As an adult, I had the great honor of becoming a student of Corelli: an artist that I have always revered and remains my ideal tenor.
When did you realize this would become your career? It wasn’t I who decided to make it a profession: one becomes a singer if people ask you to sing for them. As a teenager, by receiving timely invitations to sing (first among relatives, then among friends, then among the public in my first small concerts), I started to think that my greatest passion could also become my profession.
Which performance excited you the most? Hard to say…. When I sing, I’m always excited. Whether in front of a hundred thousand people or in the dining room of the house for a few friends, it makes little difference to me: each time, I hope to enter the heart of my listeners and communicate positive emotions. When this happens, I have achieved my goal and I’m happy.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
11
Which song is the most requested of you?
Who played a major role in creating the Andrea
Probably for pop music it is Time to Say Goodbye:
Bocelli of today?
it is undeniable that this song has become a classic
First of all, my parents. Then my teachers: I have
in its own way, at all latitudes. I for one do not get
already mentioned Franco Corelli, but I also remember
tired of singing it. As for the operatic repertoire, it
with great affection my first teacher, Luciano Bettarini.
is undoubtedly Nessun Dorma from Turandot—the
Thanks to Maestro Bettarini, already a teacher of
page that most fuels the public everywhere and
figures in the highest order of international opera, I
each time makes me immensely proud to be Italian,
first learned the rigor of the song. A discipline that, as
a compatriot of an absolute genius: precisely,
a boy, I had never imagined was so severe, similar to
Giacomo Puccini.
that which an athlete has to follow to get results. Finally, I have the pleasure of mentioning Amos Martellacci,
How do you deal with your emotions before performing?
a man who was not a musician; even if it is to him
I don’t have any lucky charms, nor do I pursue
that I owe much of the little that I do know. Amos was
any particular ploy to maintain self-control. I keep
an extraordinary man who mastered six languages
trepidation at bay, especially when I know that I have
and had become a bank director, even though he had
done my duty. Anxiety, the tension that invariably
only attended elementary school! Once retired, for
accompanies me when I go on stage, is tempered by
many years he “condemned himself” to follow me in
the awareness of having done everything possible
university studies, right up to the beginning of my
with seriousness and consciousness to confront the
artistic career. I named my first son Amos in his honor.
repertoire that I propose. But a little tension is always there because, as I said, I am emotional by nature.
Was there ever a time you thought about quitting? As it happens to everyone during any profession, there
What do you do to relax between performances?
were brighter moments and less bright ones. At the
I love to go back to the countryside where I was born
beginning of the millennium, because of a complex
or just stay in my house by the sea where I live with
family situation, I had partially lost my enthusiasm.
my wife Veronica. When I can, I like to horseback
The union with Veronica, now my wife, was crucial to
through the woods, countryside, and beaches of my
finding it again: had I not met her along my way, I
region. Moreover, I love boating and swimming but
might have even stopped singing.
also reading a good book.
What are the main requisites to succeed in music? Is it hard to find time for your family?
Intelligence, will, spirit of sacrifice, determination, and
I believe that, with a little organization, you can always
a pinch of narcissism. You must be humble but also
find the time to dedicate yourself to your loved ones:
determined and able to rely on your own potential.
what’s important is not the amount of time dedicated
You must be strict with yourself, yet always going
to them but the quality.
forward with optimism, never ceasing to believe in your passion.
12
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
andrea bocelli
Feature Story
What does music mean to you? I consider it my personal medicine; it’s a way to make life lighter; it’s a balm and nourishment to the spirit. It is a gift, so I cannot easily give it up. As a boy, it was a terrific pastime and it gave me moments of great happiness. As an adult it has become my job. I borrow a reflection from the German philosopher Leibniz, who described music as an “occult arithmetic exercise of the soul that does not know it is counting.”
Would you say that music is a universal language? I am convinced of it and, having trod the stages all over the world, I’ve proved it constantly throughout a career of two decades long. Music can change the moral character of the soul: the Greek philosopher Aristotle said it, arguing that young people should be educated and well versed in this art. Music is a herald of strong emotions; it moves on paths that penetrate the most intimate spheres of our psyche, without being affected by prejudices or biases. Good music can educate us in beauty and brotherhood; it can open our hearts and minds.
What types of music do you enjoy? When traveling by car, I often find myself listening to anything, even the newest pop music. While at home, I tend to listen to classical music and opera. I have remained fond of the interpretations of those who were my heroes already from when I was a child. I am referring to the voices of Franco Corelli, Beniamino Gigli, Mario Del Monaco, Enrico Caruso, Giuseppe Di Stefano, Aureliano Pertile, Ferruccio Tagliavini, Mario Lanza....
What do you remember most of Pavarotti? “You complain about too many interviews. But you will complain more the day when they will no longer interview you,” so he once said to me. This was the great Luciano Pavarotti. A solar man, a brilliant conversationalist, a good table guest, a person who willingly stayed in your company. An artist who loved his work and whom I never heard, not even once, complain or pity himself for the overload of commitments or any reason related to his activity.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
13
Tell us about your encounter with Pope John Paul II…. I met him several times and I had the ultimate pleasure of being able to sing in front of him. I treasure the memory of those moments. I can remember, among other things, a gesture of affection that filled my heart when he put his hand on my shoulder like a father. His canonization was a great joy: illuminated by a superior grace, Pope Wojtyla was able to speak to people with ease, bringing new generations to Catholicism. A pope who changed history, a catalyst and protagonist of epochal changes, as well as on the geopolitical level.
What does “Italy” mean to you? I think that I was lucky to be born and grow up in Italy, the country where opera was born; and I’m happy to help raise awareness of the wonderful repertoire that creative geniuses like Giuseppe Verdi, Giacomo Puccini, Umberto Giordano, and many others have produced in time. Italy is a land whose natural beauty and density of artistic masterpieces stored within its borders never cease to move me and instill me with pride. The creative force of our country, when positive and cheerful, makes the world dream: we have an extraordinary story behind us, excellence in every field, an impressive number of treasures that can be valued, splendid traditions, and a widespread and deeprooted culinary culture.
What do you miss when you leave Italy? What I love most—and what I miss the most when I’m abroad—is perhaps the moment in which our big extended family gets together to have lunch and dine. Together with relatives and often many dear friends, we live meals as an opportunity to confront one another, strengthen trust and complicity (especially with my children), open up and talk, and reflect on everything.
14
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
andrea bocelli
Feature Story
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
15
Do you have a favorite food? Spending most of the year around the world, every flavor attributable to Italy (from the cheeses to pizza, from coffee to the wines) becomes a taste of home. I like almost all good cooking, I adore genuine tastes, our Pecorino cheese, Tuscan bread, sausages when handmade, garden vegetables, and—as a true Italian— pasta: with pesto, sauce, but also just with oil (if it is oil from our land). As for desserts, my favorite is cheesecake.
Where did the idea of the Andrea Bocelli Foundation originate? I believe that life is like a great banquet in which everyone is fine if there is the bare minimum for all. If someone is not comfortable, for whatever reason, the party fails. It is for this reason that I consider solidarity not only a moral duty but an act of intelligence. The Andrea Bocelli Foundation, which I founded in 2011, is a tangible demonstration of a concept dear to me: namely, the most disruptive testimony is consistency by persons of good will; it is the behavior that lines up with its principles. How often I repeat: what matters is to translate our hopes into concrete actions, which outperform the mere declarations of one’s intents.
What are your future recording plans? In late July, the double CD dedicated to Puccini’s Turandot under the baton of Zubin Mehta, with whom I recently also recorded Aida by Giuseppe Verdi. Within a year, a new pop album will be released: a musical project in which I strongly believe and whose results are fully satisfying.
Do you still dream of more? I hope to continue to sing, as long as the good Lord gives me the opportunity. I hope that I can continue, to give to whoever will listen, a remnant of serenity and optimism.
Any words of wisdom to future “Bocelli’s”? Everyone has his or her own history and peculiarities. There is no sure recipe for becoming a successful artist: a great career cannot be built around a table. To excite people, you have to have something to say; therefore, you have to be curious to be able to sing well and have many passions. Be passionate about living and fall in love with life and love (which is its engine). Interview by Federica Fatale.
16
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
andrea bocelli
Feature Story
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
17
Massimiliano Rosolino For Nazionale Italiana
Hometown: Naples, Italy Age: 37 Height: 6’4� (1.92m) 60 International Medals Gold: 2000 Summer Olympic Games, 2000 European Championships & 2001 World Championships.
18
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
nazionale italiana
SPORTS
When did you first fall in love with swimming?
As a good Neapolitan, what is your favorite dish?
My passion for swimming was born when I
I love spaghetti with clams and cherry tomatoes.
was still very small. I was 10 years old. I knew immediately that this sport would be part of my
How much does swimming influence your girls?
life forever.
Very much. We try to convey to the children the values of discipline and fairness that sport has
What has the sport taught you?
taught us.
Surely discipline, individuality, and sharing.
Do they prefer swimming or dancing? Which was your greatest victory?
It’s a struggle…the dominating daddy always
The Olympic gold in Sydney.
wins! I’m joking of course. What’s important is to keep in shape.
How about the most difficult moment? When you are no longer on Olympus.
Is there an ideal age to begin sports? Towards 4 to 5 years old it is obligatory, even if
As the testimonial of Nazionale Italiana, what
nowadays you can start before tiptoeing.
are your favorite items? Nowadays the famous T-shirt is worn 12 months a
What role should the parents play?
year, but in my case I’m never without a polo shirt
Parents should consider that sports teach us
and fins.
to share, be competitive, but at the same time respect the opponent.
Tell us about your meeting with Natalia Titova on “Dancing with the Stars?”
So what’s next, swimming, TV, fashion?
It wasn’t love at first sight, but great affinity right
Can I put them together and do a triathlon?!
from the start.
What advice do you have for young people? You have been together now for 10 years.
Try your best no matter what, because the rest of
What’s the secret?
life is even harder!
Knowing how to support and sustain one another.
Interview by Federica Fatale.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
19
Nazionale Italiana Nazionale Italiana was launched in 2007 as an “easy price” brand; that is, one that can satisfy the consumer’s demands for quality, price, and style. Its continual source of inspiration is the world of sports, which in 2013 gave birth to the new mood “life in movement.”
20
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
nazionale italiana
SPORTS
Did You
Know?
Prato—a historical hub of the Italian textile industry situated 16 miles (25 km) from Florence—has nearly 50,000 Chinese residents and 5,000 workshops that produce $2 billion of clothing per year. Low pay, long hours, poor conditions, and smuggled fabrics from China all characterize Chinese Made in Italy, which has triumphed over Italian production in terms of speed and cost! Mostly illegal immigrants, these Chinese workers started arriving in the mid-1990s from Wenzhou to work in Italian factories, where they have learned and mastered the art of Italian production.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
21
Aeronautica Militare A National Symbol of Pride
22
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
aeronautica militare
“After World War II in Thiene,
FASHION
province
“For more than 30 years, the company has produced leather
of Vicenza, Cristiano Sperotto created one of the first tailor
jackets—including the original ones for pilots—and since 2004
workshops, which specialized in the production of leather
it has also added clothing inspired by the glorious world of
clothing for high class men and women in the Sixties and
pilots and flight, receiving permissions from the Air Force to
gained a reputation in the domestic and international markets.
use their logos and original arms.
“The proximity of the company with the small but glorious
“The professionalism demonstrated throughout those years by
airport Ferrarin of Thiene has meant that, over the years, it
the Thiene company was a guarantee of success, and so it was:
would create a certain feeling among the pilots of National
the brand Aeronautica Militare (literally, ‘Air Force’) has taken
Acrobatic Team at the airport with the owners—first Cristiano
off in the fashion world, becoming one of the most popular
Sperotto, then his sons Paolo and Armando Pio.
brands of sportswear and earning its own slice of the market both in Italy and abroad.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
23
“A jacket, sweatshirt, or accessory does not have anything special in itself; it’s mostly a sense of belonging: the spirit and values of the Air Force make them special. Aeronautica Militare is a young fashion brand capable of best reinterpreting the idea of ‘nation’ and its values: integrity, respect, discipline, honor, courage, passion for flying, etc. The garments of Aeronautica Militare are the passport to enter this world. “Thanks to its background, Cristiano di Thiene Inc. has the complete knowledge for the development of each item’s style and layout. The collections have a strong appeal to the world of military aviation, while the logos and insignias that are used have been chosen and selected only after careful verification of their historical content, meaning, and value. “Our collections do not just conquor true flight enthusiasts but also those who are looking for a distinctive style and strong identity, without sacrificing the quality of the products worn. Cristiano di Thiene Inc. wants to tell a true and authentic story through its label Aeronautica Militare—one that transmits energy and enthusiasm, a story of craftsmanship, which is a successful mix of ingenuity and stylistic quality of the product, ideal for those who love sporty and trendy clothing. “Each season, the creative staff reinvents the style of the collections for men, women, and children and researches products for a casual look but always with a strong identity. Each collection is built around two main themes: the world of sports and the world of pilots and aviation. “This winter collection has a very decisive style, rich in character and strong emotional impact. It’s a collection that tells the history of the Air Force.” Interview with Paolo Sperotto, CEO of Cristiano di Thiene, Inc.
24
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
aeronautica militare
FASHION
Did You
Know?
While Italian owned companies are decreasing in Italy, foreigner owned companies are increasing rapidly, totaling about 733,500—74,500 of which are run by Moroccans, 70,000 by Romanians, and 69,000 by Chinese, who are growing at phenomenal rates, mostly in the clothing industry. The majority of these foreigner owned companies are located in Northern Italy.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
25
26
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
aeronautica militare
FASHION
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
27
28
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
Japanese Design —Italian Craftsmanship —Polish Down
Tatras
tatras
FASHION
Named after a mountain chain on the border of Poland and Slovakia, Tatras was founded in 2000 by the Japanese designer Masanaka Sakao.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
29
What motivated you to choose the name? The name was chosen because Tatras is a brand of highend down jackets, a typical garment for the mountains.
Why down and feathers from Poland? The lining of every garment is made by selecting the best goose down and goose feathers on the market, Polish ones. The Polish goose makes the garment functional for the winter and cold climates.
Why Italy? To cross the boundaries of the nation-bearer. Tatras arrived in Milan with an eminent showroom executive to manage the world’s market, and an Italian company was founded to optimize style, research, production, and distribution.
What are the synergies between the three countries? Tatras is an international brand that combines the clean lines of Japanese design and style, the excellence of Italian workmanship and fabrics, and the technical production of the Polish goose. These countries appreciate high quality: this is what Tatras wants to offer its customers.
30
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
tatras
FASHION
What is Sakao’s current role? He’s the Creative Director of the brand.
How do your four lines relate? The absolute values are the high quality of the product, which are the result of constant research and the careful selection of materials. A Tatras collection has different inspirations within itself, one more basic and one more elegant. The use of particular fabrics and details falls in these inspirations.
Is there one line that is more elegant? The most sophisticated soul of the brand becomes Atelier, where classic inspirations and the informal elegance of contemporary thinking come together. Atelier is characterized by an original fabric, as a result of more than a year of tests and trials made by the designer Masanaka Sakao.
Can you elaborate on his research? Working in collaboration with the best fabric manufacturers, Sakao San studied the reactions of the fabric at different temperatures and different ironings in order to achieve the perfect balance between performance and aesthetic. A composition of wool mixed with polyester makes the fabric warm, light, and comfortable. Every square meter has half the weight of any other fabric of the same category.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
31
Did You
Know?
The Made in Germany disclosure is defined as “all essential manufacturing steps,” while the Made in the USA disclosure reads “all or virtually all.” Therefore, the Italian regulation of “totally” appears much more restrictive in determining what qualifies for the Made in Italy label.
32
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
tatras
FASHION
What is the Historic Rally Dolomiti and Tatras’ relationship? The Historic Rally Dolomiti is one of the most important historic car competitions. Tatras was the official sponsor of its third edition in 2014.
Why did you entitle the current collection “New York City My Base Camp?” People wearing Tatras have the spirit of an adventure traveler. So it goes that the setting chosen by Tatras is the roof of a skyscraper in New York City, where it is possible to set up camp and dominate the capital of the world: A base camp, a “camping chic” bivouac in the heart of midtown Manhattan on the rooftop of the highest building, on 35th Street and with a view of the Empire State Building.
Who are the men and women that wear Tatras? Tatras’ lovers are curious, dynamic, and cosmopolitan. The Tatras man loves to feel contemporary and trendy, wrapping himself up in ample overcoats with rich details like taped zippers, applied pockets, and invisible closures. The Tatras woman loves to show off maxi fur collars and unusual asymmetrical closures, which lend to femininity and elegance.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
33
Grinko Made in Italy with a Twist 34
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grinko
FASHION
Designed and produced entirely in Italy, Sergei Grinko established his epynomous label in Milan, in 2009.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
35
What first drew you to fashion?
definitively means Asia/Japan, grew up in London, worked as
I was born in Far East Russia, in front of Japan, and I always
couturist in Dubai for all the local Royal Families—including
have been attracted to that tailoring culture experience.
HHM Ranja, the Queen of Jordan—and then in 2009 I founded the high-end RTW brand GRINKO here in Italy with
Where were you at the end of the Soviet era?
my Italian partner Filippo Cocchetti. Of course, what I have
Well, I was almost 18 years old when the Soviet Union
done is what I am now.
collapsed and, exactly in those years, I moved to London to study Fashion and Glass Arts at Central Saint Martin’s and at
Why did you choose Italy after London and Dubai?
Adult Westminster College.
Well, as I said before, I moved to Italy first because of my relationship with my partner Filippo Cocchetti; then,
What type of fashion scene did you encounter in London?
secondarily, I love living and working here because it is not
London in the late ‘90s was of course still deeply influenced
just a common phrase “Italy is the best country of the world,”
by a punk trend, dominated by Vivienne Westwood; but it
but it is indeed the best for fashion, high level production and
was also the beginning of new cultural fashion icons, and the
tailoring, and definitively the best lifestyle you can enjoy.
minimalistic style was the new trend.
Is there any place that you consider “home?”
36
Your designs appear to be influenced by East Russia,
Now after almost 7 years, I feel Italy is my home. That’s why
Japan, London, Dubai, Milan….
in 2011, I decided to sell my apartment in East End London
Yes it is all true: I was born in the Far East of Russia, which
and buy one here in Milan.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grinko
FASHION
Did You
Know?
Since 1999, the Made in Italy label has begun to be protected by associations like the Institute for the Protection of the Italian Manufacturers and is regulated by the Italian law. Nevertheless, much controversy surrounds the label, from its definition to enforcement.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
37
Pence By Dora Zecchin
38
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
pence
FASHION
Where are you from originally? Brugine, a village in the province of Padua.
What type of education did you receive? I started studying languages when I was only 9 years old and I still do. I graduated from high school in the United States; then in Italy, I continued my education in Padua, where I majored in Communication.
Besides fashion, do you have other interests? I am fortunate to do work that was a hobby for years. Even as a little girl, I loved to embroider and draw on clothes. During my university years, I enjoyed customizing jeans that I bought at flea markets and secondhand stores. Other hobbies are traveling, cooking, and learning new languages— the next one that I would like to learn is Russian. I love to experiment with cuisines that are different from Italy’s and invent new combinations of flavors. Cooking also gives me the opportunity to play with the presentation of dishes and colors! Finally I love swimming! I adore the water and all the cities that are on the sea or near rivers and lakes.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
39
40
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
pence
FASHION
Do you have a specific design aesthetic? Mixing colors, shapes, and fabrics is the basis of my work. I do not design clothes but I allow the fabrics to carry out my signature and taste, the latter two of which guide me in the realization of the fit. In this winter collection, mixing and matching was even more important than usual; I wanted to experiment with the combination of different structures and textures in a single fabric.
What is the age range of the Pence man? He’s a man that goes from 28-30 on up.
How would you define his interests? Surely fashion but also the outdoors and probably travel. The open air because the collections always present comfortable clothes, owing to their shapes and purely casual fabrics. There are always references and details that point to different cultures in my collections.
How about his lifestyle? I guess he’s the professional who goes out in the morning to the office or an appointment with a client, but he doesn’t know when he will return home or what he will do beforehand. So he chooses a casual chic look that is suitable for work and also an aperitif or dinner.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
41
What is the age of the woman who chooses Pence? 25 on up.
How about her interests? Fashion and travel like the man; she’s also a lover of handmade and unique artisanal pieces.
What about her lifestyle? She’s a woman with a busy life, so she chooses comfortable clothes but with the need always to be fashionable. A woman tending to be intellectual, a lover of classic looks, which I propose from a reexamined viewpoint and in contemporary combinations. She’s the perfect companion of the Pence man.
Can you give us a sneak peek to next season? For the upcoming 2016 spring/summer season, the Tuareg are my inspiration and, hence, the presence of blue and all variations of beige sand that changes, depending on the sun and time of day. The embroidery on the sides of the denim recalls the desert dunes.
42
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
pence
FASHION
Did You
Know?
If Italy had already ceased to produce cotton in 1991, then 100% of all cotton must be imported. How is it, therefore, possible to label a cotton shirt as 100% Made in Italy, when 100% of the raw materials are foreign?
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
43
Gate64
When All Hope Seems Lost
44
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
gate64
FASHION
Where did the name Gate64 originate? Some would call it a trip, others—an experience. At that time, for me, it was simply an escape. My life was taking a bitter turn, the joy of believing in a project and the determination to carry it out were fading. But before boarding a plane that would take me back home, I felt an emotion: a lost feeling, Two years ago Uomo Moderno interviewed the three
an inner strength, like a desire for recovery, for revenge—to
siblings who had launched Rumjungle—a casual line
start over, start again with a new project, start living again.
of hip streetwear whose brand name was inspired by a
I looked up. Gate64 was my new life! How many times has it
nightclub in Las Vegas where they had been vacationing.
happened to you when you say to yourself: ‘Drop everything
Since then, the family has rolled out yet another brand.
and go?’ Our mission is to “dress” that time. Is the label strictly menswear? Currently Gate64 only dresses men, because it has always been our strong point; but this does not mean that, in the near future, our brand cannot embrace the world’s women, or even children. How does Gate64 differ from Rumjungle? Unlike Rumjungle—which offers a more fashionable, bold, and niche product—Gate64 is of a more casual and straightforward taste that can be worn by a wider audience. The collections are built in order to create a total look of colors, textured fabrics, and trendy washes. The bestsellers are t-shirts, polo shirts, and sweaters—all of a unique and aggressive character.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
45
What would you say is the brand’s mission? Our mission is constancy, the ongoing research of Italian and foreign fabrics and techniques in packaging, and above all the everyday love that the Gate64 team puts into every garment, every graphic, every detail. How would you define the guy that wears Gate64? The brand dresses young guys who are attentive to detail and seek an avant-garde fit, as well as adults who prefer casual sportswear, quality, and selected materials. What is the inspiration of this season’s collection? Definitely
high
quality
streetwear,
wherein
the
inspiration of dark approaches a more imaginative creative proposal. This collection is in fact a triumph of vitality and vivacity: each garment is able to give a unique innovative and fashionable touch to any outfit, ensuring comfort and dynamism. The colors are intense and powerful, ranging from dark red wine to inevitable black, from dirty white to brown. It’s a collection with a strong personality, able to testify immediately to the decisive character of those who wear it. Interview with Claudio Giansante, Creative Director Gate64.
46
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
gate64
FASHION
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
47
Rumjungle Two Years Later
48
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
rumjungle
FASHION
What has changed since our first interview two years ago?
Have you had any challenges?
Very much. These have been two absolutely positive years
Many. Among the most important, internally, the launch of
in which the company has achieved important goals: first we
a new corporate brand, all women’s and Made in Italy: NINA
have expanded our customer base in Italy and abroad, and we
VON T, about which you will hear soon.
have opened a store in [Rome’s] Valmontone Fashion District and Madrid. We are also constructing another building in
What role is Rumjungle currently playing in Italy?
Rome for the coming year. Furthermore, our family has just
Compared to many temporary phenomena like the brands that
expanded with the entry of a new commercial director, Enrico
are born, explode in a season, and then fall by the wayside,
Croce, who has 30 years of experience that is essential for a
Rumjungle continues to be recognized and appreciated as a
young group like ours, having launched brands like Antony
point of reference for style and also for its offer of products
Morato, Gaudi, and Liu Jo.
in terms of price for quality. Our collections wed fashion and quality to Italian style that is always affordable. This is why
What hasn’t changed?
we continue to register above average market performance
Our team spirit and passion. We are increasingly resourceful
over our competitors.
and motivated. We never stop!
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
49
50
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
rumjungle
FASHION
Why is the U.S. market important to you?
What is the inspiration of this season’s collection?
Did we ever tell you that the idea of founding our company was
We propose an original cosmopolitan look that is
born right there?! Rumjungle was not born as a phenomenon
inspired by everyday life. Yet we keep the vintage
to adhere to the Italian or European scene where we have
theme, which we find in the washed fabrics, cold dyes,
been present for a while. We’re aiming high, as always. We
and structures of some items. Part of the collection
want to become global, and the United States is one of the
gives a nod to the Dandy image, which we express
next targets that we have set. I have always loved and carefully
in the style of some jackets and blazers. Moreover,
studied the US business model, and the idea of connecting
inevitable enrichments include our signature items with
American’s passion for Made in Italy to Italian success stories
refined details like paisley on denim shirts, blazers,
inspires me to pursue the idea of the American dream, which
and outerwear; embellishing bowties; and particular
has been passed down from immigrant grandparents. They,
cuts of pants.
leading in business; we, leading in style. Their excellence mixed with our excellence. The objective is to put the whole
Have you rolled out any new items?
thing in comparison on the same market.
The real novelty this season is the RJ One capsule collection, which is made up of Made in Italy items
So why is Rumjungle an ideal brand for Americans?
that are often an asymmetrical cut and loose fit—all
We know that in comparison to the multinational fashion
intended for the more aggressive man who wants
giants who dominate the market and tend to standardize the
to follow street trends and be in step with fashion.
styles and way of dress, it will be very hard. Nevertheless,
Moreover, after the success of a recent experiment
we believe so much in our project and strongly distinguished
with a capsule collection of sneakers, we decided to
Italian identity that hopefully will represent the tantalizing
expand the offer with a wider model shoe collection,
novelties for which the American customer is searching.
as well as some bags and backpacks for both men and
The idea of exporting an Italian brand that offers the market
for women.
affordable prices is one reason that leads us to draw closer to the United States.
Interview with Mattia Giansante, Style and Production Manger.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
51
Roberto Collina A Continental Divide
52
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
roberto collina
FASHION
“The original nucleus of our company was founded in the early ‘50s by Adelmo Collina and his wife Livia Setti who were the parents of Roberto. Adelmo sold handknitting machines of the brand Wählt and his wife Livia established and ran a knitting school with the same machines to give viable support to her husband. “It’s important to point out that, until then, no female vocational school of this type had existed and, after the war, this initiative represented an important innovation for youth and the territory’s social fabric, which was exclusively rural. We proudly point out that the school produced people who later founded important knitwear companies. “The Roberto Collina brand and company were founded on January 1, 1983. Roberto had already joined the company in the late ‘70s. With the inclusion of Roberto, the company took on a more international approach and started collaborating with other brands in foreign markets, such as Germany, Holland, France; the Dutch market proved particularly successful in numbers. What did not change was the passion for the product and Madein-Italy craftsmanship.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
53
“The main characteristics that set our company apart are probably faithfulness to quality, continuous research, staff training, the transfer of skills, seriousness in dealing with customers and suppliers, and innovation. “The 1981 film Continental Divide, which was directed by Michael Apted, encompasses all the flavor of Roberto Collina’s new 2016 winter collection: a cynical and unscrupulous American journalist among the bald eagles of the Rocky Montains.
54
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
roberto collina
FASHION
“The goal today is to reinforce the Roberto Collina brand, especially in foreign markets who appreciate and know how to value our DNA.” Roberto Collina
Did You
Know?
Outsourcing, overseas production, loss of local jobs, low worker wages, and poor working conditions are not only driven by big corporations but also the consumer’s demand for low-cost, fast fashion! Are we willing to spend $200 on a pair of good quality shoes, or do we prefer to purchase multiple pairs at $20?
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
55
By Cily Hairstylist
A Frozen Party
Welcome to our
winter frozen party with special
guests: the Ciuffi Rossi (literally ‘the red heads’)! If you don’t know which look to show off for this New Year’s festivities, then this article is for you. Why not try the look of the Ciuffi Rossi twins?!
56
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
cily hairstylist
GROOMING
Laury: Power and Seduction Sophisticated and elegant, our femme fatale sports a sophisticated curl that is formed by the “twister” technique, allowing the flow of the curl to go from wide to tight: the perfect fusion of curl and movement. The color is a sophisticated ombré, going from dark brown at the base to dark blonde at the tips, with a hint of warmth and gold. Stephan: Charm and Kindness A sober look with a pinch of boldness, our little angel is crowned with a beautiful eclipse haircut, which is characterized by diagonal shading that grows into a long wave, giving a very elegant shadow effect. The highlights are platinum, very trendy for this winter, and created with innovative color techniques for contrasts that are contained and not flashy. The styling is slightly disheveled through the application of opaque, matte modeling paste.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
57
58
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
cily hairstylist
GROOMING
Jhon: Fascination and Risk Our tempter presents a wild look in complete harmony with the future trends of 2016, which are inspired by ethnic influences. The hair has been set through irregular braiding, while light is reflected by the light blond ombré coloring. The “bad boy” styling is perfected with the “wild curling” technique of a curling iron. A glossy wax on the tips heightens the movement of each strand, which is finished off with extra strong hairspray— only for those who love to be alternative and fashionable. Lena: Sweetness and Grace Our second little angel dons a sober, delicate look. Her blond hair fades into a clear ombré, tips dyed with the nuance of an “ocean storm” and hints of blue. Romantic undulating folds frame her face and enhance her figure. This look is for those who want to be chic and always on top, absolutely elegant and never vulgar.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
59
It’s all about lengths and cuts of long voluminous strands, with a light touch of vintage! Natural styling is enhanced by powdered wax, while polishing oil causes the brilliance of their red tints to pop. The effect of their chunky hair is slightly disheveled and is intended for those of you who love volume and alternative retro styles.
60
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
cily hairstylist
GROOMING
Duality. The Roman numeral two is represented in the zodiac symbol of these twins. Very often things divide into opposites: darkness and light, fire and water, air and ground, black and white. There are two singers in Italy, twins, who have become known together for singing on YouTube. Identical in appearance, different for their voices, they bring a duality into their singing. They are Marco and Alessio Bianchi. “Surely it’s not that common to find twins with red hair that sing, but it’s a combination of factors that leads an audience to follow a singer or person on the web. It’s not so important to beautiful, nice, or good, as it is above all to be able to engage the audience.” Ciuffi Rossi, (‘the Red Heads’)
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
61
Grappa Nonino
Distillers in Friuli Since 1897
62
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grappa nonino
Cuisine
“My family has been dedicated to the art of
“In Italy there is no obligation to declare the real distiller or the type
distillation since 1897: the year in which Orazio Nonino, our family
of distillation on the label, whether it is artisanal or industrial. Our
patriarch, settled in Ronchi Percoto—the location of his distillery,
grappa is distilled 100% by traditional methods and we only bottle
which, until then, existed only in the form of a traveling still on
grappa distilled in our steam stills in Ronchi Percoto. Therefore, I
wheels. We are now the 6th generation.
invite you to read labels carefully and, if information is vague, that is not a good indication.
“Grappa is the oldest and most traditional distillate of Northern Italy. It is obtained by distilling the solid part of the grape, the
“Traditional methods of distillation cost 10 times higher
marc. Friuli is a famous region for excellent white wines and also
than industrial ones in terms of investments in equipment
produces some red grapes from native varieties that are in high
and energy demands. As for aging, I suggest you pay close
demand. Nonino grappa is distilled from fresh marc immediately
attention to make sure that the numbers on the bottle refer to
after fermentation and during the harvest.
the years of aging, because they are often imaginary numbers or a celebration of an event.
“The marc is gathered the same day in which the grapes are pressed and placed in stainless steel vats for fermentation. This type of work
“The choice of grappa depends on personal tastes. Some prefer
is essential to ensure fermentation—the transformation of sugar into
aromatic grappa, so I suggest Monovitigno Moscato or Fragolino,
alcohol—of the marc and the preservation of its pure characteristics.
or even a dry Monovitigno Merlot grappa.
“My family—especially my sister, Cristina, who accompanies our
“Cru Monovitigno Picolit is a legendary grappa that meets
father in the distillery—deals personally with the purchase of raw
everyone’s expectations. Perfect in purity but also complimentary
materials and follows the various stages of distillation to ensure
to Prosciutto di Parma or San Daniele, it can be paired with an
the highest quality of Nonino grappa.
‘unforgettable’ fig mustard.
“Ageing occurs while the grappa is resting in wood, which alters
“Then we move on to our aged Monovitigno Chardonnay grappa,
its sensory profile both by the action of oxygen that reaches the
which ages 10 months in barriques, so that the wood does not
acquavite through the porous nature of the wood itself and by
dominate the elegant features of the Chardonnay grape.
the impact of substances that the wood releases slowly into the product, thereby enriching it. We only use small barrels, barriques,
“For those who love reserve editions, Nonino Riserva Antica
because the greater the contact of the distillate with natural wood,
Cuvée is wonderful! Aged from 4 to 20 years in barriques of
the greater the enrichment.
Limousin Nevers and Ex- Sherry casks, it has great aromatic richness, with hints of spice, brioche, pastries, orange,
“Since 1952 our aging cellars are home to small barrels made of
and candied fruit. It is perfectly paired with foie gras, bitter
different kinds of wood: today they boast 1,885 in Limousin oak,
chocolate, or warm chocolaty desserts.”
Nevers, Grésigne and Ex- Sherry casks, acacia, wild cherry, and pear. Our grappa has 0% dyes; even the amber color of varying
Antonella Nonino, 5th generation of distillers in the Nonino family.
intensities comes from the time spent in wood.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
63
How to Taste Grappa Top quality distillates should be served at a temperature between 10째 (50째F) and 14째C (57째F) and they should never be frozen, while aged grappa and grape distillates should be served at room temperature in special balloon shaped glasses. It is crucial to let them rest for a few minutes in the glass: on exposure to oxygen the perfumes are enhanced and the nose/ palate harmony is perfected. It is important to start with the distillate that has the lowest alcohol content and work up in sequence towards the higher quality distillates.
64
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grappa nonino
Cuisine
Cocktails with Grappa
Nonino Frozen® 2 oz. Amaro Nonino Quentessentia® Soda water 1 lime Cane sugar 2 mint leaves
Muddle and pound ¼ lime with 2 spoonfuls of cane sugar. Fill a glass with crushed ice and Amaro Nonino Quentessentia®. Then top it off with
Nonino Tonic®
Place 5-6 ice cubes in a low tumbler. Add the
soda water. Stir energetically with a
1 oz. grappa
grappa and tonic with a squeeze of a lemon.
spoon and decorate with mint leaves.
3 oz. tonic water
Garnish with a lemon slice.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
65
Grappa Poli
Distillers in Veneto Since 1898
“The history of Poli Distilleries is the story of my
“Over the years, the boilers of the distillery increased to 12 with us
family, four generations of grappaioli (‘grappa producers’) since
siblings: Jacopo, Andrea, and Barbara—the fourth generation of
1898. It was my grandfather, GioBatta Poli, who in 1885 decided
grappa craftsmen.
to leave the green fields of Asiago and move to Schiavon to open a tavern where he sold wine and straw hats—the family business.
“To talk about grappa also means talking about our territory, the foothills of Veneto, the area at the foot of the Dolomites and a
“After some time in that area, the first train station was built
fertile terrain. The hilly foothills are situated in the heart of the
along the railway that united Vicenza and Bassano del Grappa
Veneto Region, which is characterized by beautiful landscapes,
and so, between a shot of grappa there and another served in
stretching from the territories of Verona’s hills, passing
the pub, GioBatta Poli bought the first three boilers, which are
through Bassano del Grappa and Marostica, and continuing to
still working since 1898.
Trevigiano—all the way to Vittorio Veneto.
66
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grappa poli
Cuisine
Did You
Know? “Grappa is the only truly Italian distillate, because Italian law defines it exclusively as such only when it is produced from marc that is obtained from grapes grown and vinified in Italy.” Poli Distillery
“Here the most famous genuine wines in the world are cultivated,
technologies: three steam stills with four boilers, a classic water
from Amarone to Prosecco and, therefore, also the fresh marc
bath still that consists of two boilers, and a vacuum water bath still
that arrives at the Poli Distillery with its special flavor and aroma
with 2 boilers.
worthy of note. “A good product is the result of a very simple equation: the sum “What we do today is work faithfully according to five basic
of the five principles, which guide our work, together with the
principles: 1) choose fresh and healthy raw materials; 2)
use of a good artisan still, accompanied by one hundred years of
immediately distill the raw material; 3) masterfully use our historic
experience in the field.
still; 4) operate with perseverance and passion; 5) respect the distillate and the consumer.
“There is no ideal time for an aged grappa; instead, you need to have a lot of discipline to get an aged grappa of good quality,
“At Poli Distillery we use four different stills, all discontinuous
because the aging process demands time and investment of space
cycles but different periods of construction and heating
and money from the company.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
67
“Right now we have two types of aged grappa at two and four
“The best way to taste the grappa is to follow your feelings,
years and a single aged grappa of 13 years. It is called Poli
determining whether the grappa is for meditation or use after
Barrique, a product that was born out of the resolve of my father
a meal with friends, according to your own personal traditions.
and distilled for the first time in 1989. Since then, we produce
When in doubt, keep it in the fridge and leave it a few minutes in
only nine barrels a year.
the glass before tasting.
“True, there are many types of grappa on the market; the grappa of
“Guided tours are an integral part of life in our company; the artisan
one time that, burning the throat, had no defects but also no soul,
distilleries in Italy have almost all disappeared and should be
no longer exists. What I always say is that grappa does not exist,
valued. For this reason, we offer a guided tour in several languages
whereas grappas do exist, all different for their vines, stills, grape
of 90 minutes to learn about the origins, history, and distillation of
marc, vintage, style, and so on.
grappa. The tour concludes in the aging cellars with a tasting of our distillates.”
“The choice of grappa is driven by a very personal motivation, whereby often many variables come into play: the preference for
Jacopo Poli, Owner and Museum Curator, 4th generation of distillers
a particular brand, as well as pleasant family rituals, a scent that
in the Poli family.
reminds us of something….
68
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grappa poli
Cuisine
Did You
Know?
“Acquavite is a generic term and synonym of ‘distillate’. It is necessary to specify from which raw material it has been obtained: Grappa, for example, is an acquavite from grape marc; brandy is an acquavite from wine; vodka, from potatoes; whisky, from grain; rum, from sugar cane; and so on.” Poli Distillery
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
69
Grappa Marolo
The Grape Doesn’t Fall Far from the Vine
“The company was born out of my father’s passion:
“The same passion has been handed down to me. From an
Paolo, who was first a student of the prestigious Wine Institute
early age I have been interested in the work of my father,
“Umberto I” of Alba, then a science teacher in the same school. He
making it mine, trying to learn all the secrets and peculiarities
cultivated a natural predisposition in the art of distillation, which
of distillation. For this reason I decided to enroll in and
he decided to implement in 1977, after having taught an optional
graduate from the same school of my father, then to graduate
course of ‘Herbs and Liquors’ for several years.
with a degree in Economics from Bocconi University in Milan.
“Thus, he began exclusively with the production of Monovitigno
“My relationship with my father was one of complicity and
grappa: initially focusing on the main varieties like Moscato and Barolo
constructive dialogue, in which new ideas and tradition are always
of Piedmont, then moving outside the region to gather small quantities
a meeting point!
of Brunello grape in Tuscany and even Traminer in Trentino Alto Adige.
70
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grappa marolo
Cuisine
“Surely the Veneto region was one of the first to be an ambassador
“As for the hands, they refer to the way the process of distillation
of grappa, but this does not mean that the product is better: grappa
is managed: the temperature in the boiler and the separation of
is the only liquor that can be produced throughout the whole of
foreshots and aftershots from the ‘good’ grappa (the central
Italy. It’s a spirit that can be produced according to the variety of
part) are all the steps that confer a different character in the
grape marc and express scents and flavors of entire regions, as
final product of one distillation to another.
well as of individual vineyards. “There is no ideal ‘aging time’: it depends on individual tastes! “Like making a good coffee, a good grappa is born from three
For example, we have the grappa from Barolo that is aged for
elements: raw materials, machines, and hands. As for the raw
9, 12, 15, 20, and 27 years. Up to 12 years, we use oak barrels
materials, I must first qualify that the marc (i.e., the skins of the
that had been used previously for the production of Marsala and
grapes) must be fresh: this is the reason we distill only three months
Chardonnay from producers in Piedmont, extracting flavors and
a year, from September to early December, 24 hours a day, 7 days a
aromas of vanilla with hints of cocoa and dried fruit.
week. Only four years ago did we start producing small quantities of grappa from Amarone in January and February; it is impossible to
“From the twelfth year onwards, we move on to new acacia
obtain the necessary raw materials before that time of year.
barrels, which allow us to extract more austere tastes of tobacco and leather notes, balanced with fresh menthols. For
“The machine is essential in order to obtain a product that is always
these reasons, the 9- to 12-year grappa from Barolo meets most
soft and never pungent; in our opinion it is the discontinuous water
palates accustomed to the great Bas Armagnac and Cognac,
bath pot still: just like when cooking at home, you want to avoid
while whiskey drinkers prefer the older grappa.”
burning what’s in the pot. This type of system allows for the same advantages also in the production of grappa.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
71
Advice in Serving “It is one thing to taste a grappa and another thing to drink one: for
desserts or blue cheese (especially aged aromatic ones like our
tasting, I advise serving the grappa straight up at room temperature
‘Dopo’—a Muscat grappa that has been aged for five years in
(18-20°C/64-68°F) in tulip-shaped glasses for white grappa and a
casks of Moscato Passito from Pantelleria). Aged Barolo grappa is
sniffer for aged grappa. Only this way is it possible to appreciate
excellent if accompanied by a good cigar.
the scents, flavors, and lasting aftertaste of the various products. “Grappa is extremely versatile: for the aged ones I advise straight “However, when you drink grappa, the options are different: for
up, while the white ones can be mixed without problems! Among
example, it is interesting to serve white aromatic Moscato and
our most popular products we have Milla, a liqueur of grappa and
Traminer cold (especially in summer) or even add a few drops of
chamomile that is perfect: a product with unique fragrances that is
water to aged Barolo grappa, as with whiskey.
increasingly used to prepare new cocktails!”
“Grappa was born as a digestive; but it can be drunk from early
Lorenzo Marolo, son of founder Paolo Marolo.
morning mixed with coffee (caffè corretto), paired with chocolate
72
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
grappa marolo
Cuisine
Advice in Choosing “The best way to choose a grappa is first of all to taste it! There are many varieties available on the market: it is said that everyone enjoys a grappa of Chardonnay, just as it happens with wine! “If you do not have the opportunity to taste it, remember that aromatic varieties of grappa, such as Muscat or Traminer, satisfy palates accustomed to tastes that are more delicate and sweeter; while grappa from Barolo or Amarone is preferred by drinkers of big brown spirits.�
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
73
Archipelago La Maddalena 62 Islands and Islets of Paradise
74
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
archipelago la maddalena
Travel
When it comes to holidays in Italy, we immediately think of cities like Rome, Venice, and Florence or places like Capri and the Amalfi Coast. But Italy is full of real gems, perhaps less known but equally fascinating for their history, scenery, and culture. The archipelago of La Maddalena, north of Sardinia, is a beautiful and surprising paradise on earth.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
75
76
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
archipelago la maddalena
Travel
Why is La Maddalena considered an archipelago? La Maddalena is a marine park that covers an area—both land and sea—of about 20,000 hectares and 180 kilometers of coastline. The archipelago is a closely interdependent complex of sea and land, and it is considered one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world for its sea and marine flora, as well as for its geographical location in the Strait of Bonifacio, between Sardinia and Corsica. What activities does the archipelago offer tourists? On the island there are numerous diving and sailing centers; moreover, it is possible to rent boats for marine excursions. You can go out in a rubber dinghy or sailboat, or even make excursions on foot or by boat with licensed guides. On the Island of Caprera, there is also a sailing school (the CVC Caprera) and the horseback riding tourist center, Cavalla Marsala. How about cultural events? Of significant importance is the exhibition “The Suitcase Actor,” now in its 12th edition and dedicated to Gian Maria Volonté, a true legend of Italian cinema. The festival takes place every summer, usually from July 27 to August 2, with an intensive program of meetings and screenings. Is there a notable religious event? The most important religious event is Santa Maria Maddalena, patroness of the island, which takes place on July 22. The traditional procession that accompanies the saint and patroness of the island and archipelago goes through the streets of the center and then out to sea. What about sports events? Among the relatively important sporting events is La Maddalena Caprera Half Marathon, organized by Bettiol Sports Events, which takes place every year in September. Throughout the summer, there are also many sports activities organized in the Archipelago, such as the Night Run and CorrIsola, organized by Lions Runner Caprera, and the Trial Running Sardinia race along the paths of Caprera.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
77
Tell us more about these trails? The itineraries suggested by the National Park of La Maddalena wind entirely throughout the island of Caprera on beaten paths with sign posts, all connected to each other along small stretches of paved road. They are mostly made up of short routes with minimal inclines that can be tackled without any special training and more challenging excursions that offer significant differences in height for suitable walkers. What are the ideal times of year for visiting? The paths of Caprera can be explored all year; but the best times are fall and definitely spring, when most plants are in bloom; the warm weather and few crowds allow you to “taste nature’s awakening� from a privileged position. The first hours of summer days and the beautiful winter days, however, offer the opportunity to spend a few pleasant hours immersed in precious natural environments. What should tourists bring along? No special equipment is required to tread the paths of Caprera, just a pair of comfortable shoes (for hiking or sports), a water bottle, binoculars, a camera, and a nature guide. Remember, depending on the season, to bring a swimsuit! Is it true that the archipelago is also a museum? Yes. The museum of the sea and seafaring traditions is a perfect example of equilibrium between nature and culture. The Museum intends to represent a pillar of local traditions for present and future generations. There are photographs, documents, and objects in the museum, as well as everything related to the recovery of the ancient local culture tied to the sea.
78
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
archipelago la maddalena
Travel
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
79
What is the typical dish of La Maddalena? U ziminu isulanu. It’s a fish soup typical of La Maddalena’s culinary tradition. The dish was created as an expression of the fishermen’s cuisine. It is prepared by cooking onion and ripe tomatoes in oil over low heat until pasty to provide the base in cooking the catch from the archipelago. In the poorest traditional recipe, it was a small undesirable fish or just the heads; in times of extreme poverty—even a macciotta (a stone taken from the seabed), which at least kept the flavor of the sea. How did this dish come about? When fishing was favorable before the days of refrigerators, they could not keep fresh food very long. The heads of the fish were cut off, fried, and then preserved with garlic sauce so that they could be consumed one or two days later. The heads were the strongest of ziminu, cooked a long time and then crushed. U ziminu was eaten with fresh or stale bread, according to financial possibilities and tastes, guaranteeing the right amount of nutrients and satisfying hunger. Today we use crostini, which are toasted before bringing the broth to the table and lightly rubbed with garlic. Someone puts the croutons on the bottom of the pot and covers them with the broth. Immersing them one by one for a few seconds, we eat them as they are flavored with the broth but still crunchy. Interview by Federica Fatale with Carla Caredda, Public Relations.
80
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
archipelago la maddalena
Travel
Ingredients 4 ½ lbs. of mixed fish: capons, redfish, eel, mullet, octopus, cuttlefish, squid, shrimp, prawns, mussels, clams, fish chunks. l
Oil
l
Salt
l
Parsley
l
Garlic
l
Onion
l
Red pepper
l
Dried tomato
l
Tomato puree
Preparation In a large saucepan, sautĂŠ the octopus and squid, then add the chopped onion. Add the chopped dried tomato and some tomato puree, a clove of garlic, parsley, and red pepper. When everything is well browned, add water and simmer until the cuttlefish, octopus, and squid are tender. Then salt and add the fish to cook: first the capons, redfish, eel, and mullet. Finally, add the clams, mussels, and fish bits. Simmer for about ten minutes.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
81
Red in Italy The Book about Italy No Traveler Will Ever Write
82
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
made in italy
Books
Made in Italy is one of the most famous brands in the world. This means that people everywhere are buying “Italian,” those who have included Italy in the list of countries to be visited before they die and perhaps cherish the idea of moving to live in the Bel Paese [‘Beautiful Country’]. Red in Italy is an uncharacteristic travel book that addresses the foreign consumer, clarifying aspects of which we Italians know little. Cuisine, tourism, and art are some of the areas brought under scrutiny: in each chapter stereotypes and myths are dissected in an attempt to understand what truth lies within them. This is the presentation of Red in Italy. In exploring the main theme in this edition of Uomo Moderno—namely, Made in Italy and its true essence—we allow the interviews in the book to speak. Chefs, artisans, teachers, ice cream makers, tour guides, and farmers have had their say on the topic of authenticity and the Made in disclosure. Dafne Perticarini, Author. To Export or Not? Just Don’t Do Away with Parmesan What do you think Italians should export, beyond the well-known icons? “I think, before exporting, we should find our identity. Nowadays exporting risks becoming monkey see monkey do. Our products and culture are present a bit all over the world, but we do not know how to protect them. Think of all the counterfeits, I mean, from Parmesan to mozzarella. If it were possible to protect our products…but this is a political issue, not something managed by small businesses. “Politics are what concede things, making people on the other side of the world call a cheese ‘Parmigiano’ by adding another ‘g’ to the name. In Italy, it has only one and it is sold by calling it ‘Parmigiano.’ The other is a product with a hint of Italian; it has a competitive cost, but in reality it is not Parmesan since it has nothing to do with the original.” Andrea Vigna, Chef
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
83
Market Ignorance and the Case of the Truffle
unnatural ingredients, allowed by law in higher percentages than
“The price of truffles in Alba, also wholesale, is 4 times that
used previously by organic producers. So these companies no
of Acqualagna (in Le Marche). There is too much demand for
longer consider themselves in that category.
the truffle of Alba, and much of the product has to be found in other areas, such as Le Marche, Molise, or in the area of Istria
“We small producers had united and tried to assert our position
(Croatia). It would not be a problem if all the supply companies
before the law was approved. But do you think they listened to
were certified as ours. The real problem is that oftentimes the
us? The big companies arrived: they know that organic sells well
product’s origin is unknown.”
today, so they want to be able to produce it in large quantities. They can exert so much more pressure than all of us together A Truffle Entrepreneur
When a Big Company Wants to Look Authentic: the Comical
that, in fact, we were not heard.” Organic Wine Producers
Law of Organic Wine “I spoke with the producers of organic wine who told me clearly
True Craftsmanship Cannot Be Exported Easily
that the new European legislation was a joke, so much so that
“From what I have seen in meetings for artistic craftsmanship,
several companies that were already using organic methods had
those who are big enough to export resort to labor that is cheap
given up writing ‘organic’ on the product. I do not believe it was
or at least not paid adequately for what is performed.”
for mere protest, but because today’s wine found on shelves under that label is the result of a process with a long list of
84
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
Artistic Craftsman
made in italy
Books
Agribusiness: 100% Italian?
Hope for Greater Protection to Prevent Extinction
“PDO and PGI products are linked to territories that are recognized
Returning to Made in Italy, which, like organic, is not rarely
by the European Union on the basis of a specification. A PDO,
understood and is often confused with fakes and scandals….
protected designation of origin, must be obtained from raw materials that are grown or bred in Italian territory and produced
“It is not protected. It is a much exploited brand in the world that
according to the specification, with possible transformation,
appeals a lot. But there is no proper protection. We have in our
aging, etc. that also occur within a part of the Italian territory
hands a fortune, which we do not realize.”
indicated in the specification. Bruno Sebastianelli, Entrepreneur and Organic Farmer “Therefore, we can define PDO Italian products as truly and completely 100% Made in Italy. Problems arise with PGI,
The Author
protected geographical indication, because PGI ones are
Dafne Perticarini has defined Red in Italy “an uncharacteristic
heterogeneous in both the type of product (raw materials) and the
travel book” because she believes the work is the right
possible transformation. There are 100% Italian IGP products, as
introduction for those who wish to travel to Italy with a greater
well as IGP ones that are merely transformed in Italy.”
awareness and buy Made in Italy without being fooled. Soon the sequel to Red in Italy will be available, focusing on places and
Coldiretti, the Italian Farmers Association
people like a conventional travel book.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
85
The New Generation Fashion Tour Uomo Moderno’s Fashion Show from Italy
Uomo Moderno magazine inaugurated the 2nd Edition of the New Generation Fashion Tour, which kicked off at the Cutting Room on the second day of New York Fashion Week (Friday, September 11) and concluded a month later at Voyeur Nightclub on the second day of the Philadelphia Collection— the city’s official fashion week. The New Generation Fashion Tour showcased the men’s and women’s collections of five young emerging brands from Italy, including the casual streetwear of Rumjungle, the active wear of Gate 64, the remade new street of WYWoL (photo left), the 100% milk collection of DueDiLatte (photo right), and Francesca Marotta’s haut couture.
86
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
fashion tour
Events
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
87
At New York Fashion Week A Night of Cabaret
While the quartet was tuning their instruments on stage and models from all around the world were being fitted by the Italian designers in the corridor below, hundreds of guests crammed into the Cutting Room on the evening of 9/11. It was a night of solemn remembrance—a tragedy, a nightmare— something that we must never forget. But as the flood lights beamed onto the stage and the sounds of 4Strung filled the air, there was a feeling of excitement—an expectation of dreams coming true! The dreams of young men and women who had long desired to walk the catwalk, the dreams of emerging designers from Italy who had longed to show at New York Fashion Week. As always, special thanks to our sponsor for helping Uomo Moderno make dreams come true: the Skygroup Team at Warburg Realty. Specific thanks to Tearsheet for providing the hair and makeup team for the event.
88
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
new york
events
DueDiLatte
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
89
Actress JamieLee Ackerman, here wearing Francesca Marotta, was star guest model at the show!
90
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
new york
events
Israeli designer Avshalom Rave accessorized the show with his line of Perepaix jewelry.
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
91
At the Philadelphia Collection Under the Disco Lights
Normally, the City of Philadelphia rolls out its fashion week right after New York Fashion Week in early September. This year, however, papa Francesco gave little Francesco some major competition and the Philadelphia Collection was postponed to this first week of October. So on Friday, October 9th, Voyeur Nightclub swung its doors wide open to the Uomo Moderno Fashion Show from Italy, which, for the second consecutive year, was declared a Marquee Event by the City of Philadelphia! Thanks Philadelphia for the brotherly love and sisterly affection! Special thanks to the Rittenhouse Spa & Club - Hair by Paul Labrecque - for an outstanding job in hair and makeup!
92
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
philadelphia
events
WYWoL
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
93
Gate64
94
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
philadelphia
events
Francesca Marotta
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
95
City of Pastele Wearing DueDiLatte at New York Fashion Week and WYWoL at the Philadelphia Collection, Pastele Pasqualina performed a few hits from her latest album. Originally from Livingstone, New Jersey, Pastele combines reggae pop and indie art into an edgy hybrid of “hip pop.�
96
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
music
events
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
97
The Fashion Vignette At both shows, students from the New York Conservatory for Dramatic Arts performed a Fashion Vignette, which interpreted the designers’ inspiration behind the 2016 spring/summer collection of DueDiLatte; namely, Marilyn Monroe, Charlie Chaplin, tutti frutti, African beats, and the joie de vivre! Fashion Vignettes are a new innovative medium, created by Uomo Moderno magazine, to present fashion and designers’ inspiration through an interpretive type of mini off-Broadway skit. At the 2nd Edition of the New Generation Fashion Tour from Italy, the Fashion Vignette was conceived and directed by Caleb Alexander (photo left). Originally from Las Vegas, Caleb had penned and directed the play Chasing Starlight: A Love Letter to the Universe in February 2015. He is currently writing a new web series/TV pilot for Uomo Moderno magazine called Whatta Guys Really Want?, which addresses relevant topics of today’s youth.
98
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
caleb alexander
Events
Uomo Moderno Winter 2016
99