experience
Autumn 2015
Road trip: The Eastern Cape Travel - WildlifeAfrica - Conservation Nature - Tourism Wild experience - Autumn- 2015
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from the Boma . . .
Africaexperience Wild
We’re Back!
Publisher & Editor
Mike Nunan editor@africawildexperience.co.za
Layout & Design
Frank Nunan frank@africawildexperience.co.za
Yes, it has been a while since our last publication, and I apologise for that, but it has been a busy time in my life as explained in the last issue.
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Much has happened in our Travel & Wildlife world, some good, some not so good. Certain events in South Africa, some of them political, have had adverse effects on the tourism figures, which is not good for the economy. I have read of closures and retrenchments and very hard times for certain establishments. Talking to owners it is clear that times are very tough, with low occupancy making life difficult. The Ebola scare has also played a part and of course the latest FIFA corruption debacle is now hanging over our heads. Problems with consistent electricity supply is not helping either!
Tel: +27 (0) 422941023 59 Tom Brown Boulevard St Francis Bay. 6312 P O Box 106, Jeffreys Bay 6330 www.africawildexperience.co.za
One good thing however, at least for the inbound travellers, is the poor value of the ZA Rand, which is making visiting South Africa that much cheaper and therefore that much more attractive for tourists. So not all is doom and gloom. There is still much to celebrate and there are still many folk enjoying the many glorious, beautiful sights, places and wildlife in the country.
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While every precaution has been taken to ensure the accuracy of advice and information given to readers, the proprietor, publisher, editor or writers cannot accept responsibility for any damages, inconvenience or injury that may arise whatsoever from incorrect information. The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher or its agents. Africa Wild experience assumes no responsibility to return or publish any graphics,unsolicited editorial and photographs, or any other material received. All rights in unsolicited editorial, letters, emails, graphics and other material will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes, and material will be subject to Africa Wild experience unrestricted right to edit and comment editorially. Every care will be taken with material submitted, but Africa Wild experience, publisher and proprietor cannot be held responsible for loss and/or damages. All material and/or material in Africa Wild experience belongs to Africa Wild experience cc and/or the contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.
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Greetings Readers!
I was fortunate enough recently to take some time out with family and do a short road trip, visiting areas and places I had not been to before. The trip is featured later in this issue. To say that it was a wonderful experience would be understatement and besides the stunning scenery and amazing beauty, I must also stress that at no time were we disappointed in any of the lodgings we stayed at. From the reservation enquiries, cleanliness, friendliness and warmth of all those we dealt with, to the service staff along the way at petrol stations, road stalls and restaurants, all were excellent ambassadors for our country. It is this positive attitude that brings gladness to my heart, after all the negatives surrounding the industry. It is our people on the ground who make it happen that are our trump card. Hospitality is not an easy job, in any country. Believe me, I know! It is easy to do just the basics, without enthusiasm or caring. So when I encounter staff who not only enjoy what they are doing, but also enjoy doing it for you, making the experience so much more than expected, then that makes me proud to be a part of it and I feel secure in the knowledge that the industry will survive. Nothing beats service excellence, no matter what problems we have to deal with. I thank all those who are making that happen, knowing that the visitors to our shores are getting to feel that true spirit of our country. Enjoy the winter breaks, get out there, and Keep it Wild. Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
Mike Nunan
Contents Conservation News
The US Crushes More Than a Ton of Ivory in Times Square ..................................................................4
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Travel Wild Eastern Cape Road Trip
Lighthouse to Lighthouse .....................................6 Sunshine Coast to Addo ......................................12 Wild Cats and the Valley of the Flags .................22
Book Wild
Field guide to Mammals of Southern Africa .......27 Wild Flowers of Namaqualand ...........................27
Travel Wild Eastern Cape Road Trip
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Baviaanskloof - Part 1! .......................................28 Baviaanskloof - Part 2! .......................................34
Photo Wild
Eastern Cape Moments ......................................37
Travel News & Views
22
Raptor Ringing ...................................................48
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Cover Picture 37
Sunrise at Spinning Reel Port Alfred Picture by Mike Nunan
Special Note: Africa Wild experience is a fully interactive publication - all urls shown, as well as logos, are linked to their respective websites.
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Conservation News
The US Crushes More Than a Ton of Ivory in Times Square
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ton of illegal ivory carved into decorative objects was destroyed in New York’s Times Square recently as US officials denounced poaching that kills thousands of elephants a year. Under the gaudy neon lights of the most famous square in the world, the objects -- most of them seized from the store of a jailed Philadelphia art dealer -- were placed one by one on a conveyor belt before being dropped into the crusher to the sound of applause. “Today’s ivory crush serves as a stark reminder to the rest of the world that the United States will not tolerate wildlife crimes, especially against iconic and endangered animals,” said US Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell. US officials say that between 2011 and 2014 the poaching of African elephants reached the highest level ever recorded. In just three years around 100,000 elephants were killed for their ivory, Jewell said.
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She said there was a growing demand for ivory, with international organized crime networks seeing it as a low risk, high-profit market. Dozens of demonstrators held up posters in Times Square saying that 96 elephants fall victim to the illegal trade each day. It was the second time that US authorities have staged a massive public destruction of ivory. In November 2013, the US Fish and Wildlife Service, which comes under the department of the interior, organized the destruction of more than five tonnes of ivory in Denver. The event was organized by the USFWS, the New York department of environmental conservation and animal-rights charities. “Today’s message is this: We plan to crush the ivory trade and crush the profits of the traffickers,” said Cristian Samper, president of the USbased Wildlife Conservation Society, one such charity. The WCS said other ivory destruction events had taken place across the world, including in Kenya, Zambia, China, Hong Kong and France. The international trade in ivory was outlawed in 1989. It is also banned or severely regulated in a number of other countries.
Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
The neighbouring states of New York and New Jersey recently banned the sale and trade of ivory. China is the largest market, accounting for more than 70 percent of worldwide demand in ivory, with the United States in second place. “We are part of the problem, we also must be part of the solution,” said Jewell. According to a recent study, the situation is particularly alarming in Tanzania, which has seen a “catastrophic deline” in the elephant population from 109,051 in 2009 to 43,330 in 2014, leading wildlife trade monitoring group TRAFFIC said this month. According to another recent study, demand means that a poacher can earn $3,000 per pair of elephant tusks, more than many annual salaries in Africa. Elephant tusks are highly prized, particularly in Asia, where they are carved into ivory statuettes and jewelry. An estimated 470,000 wild elephants remain in Africa, according to a count by the NGO Elephants Without Borders, down from several million a century ago.included ivory seized from a Philadelphia art dealer who pleaded
guilty in federal court to smuggling African elephant ivory into the country. African elephants are listed as threatened under the endangered species act. Even though some African elephant ivory, including lawfully hunted trophies, can be imported into the country, the United States prohibits commercial imports and strictly regulates domestic trade of ivory products, wildlife officials said. Poaching, shrinking habitats and a seemingly insatiable appetite for ivory in Asia -- particularly in China -- have contributed to the disappearing populations of elephants. About 35,000 elephants are poached annually as the demand for ivory grows. (AFP).
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Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4
Click on the Map for the Interactive version
Day 5
Eastern Cape Lighthouse Day 1 to Lighthouse
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n a recent work break I took some of the family on a short road trip around a small section of the Eastern Cape. Our departure and end point was at the lighthouse at Cape St Francis and we left early enough to pick up my nephew at Port Elizabeth airport. From there we drove north up the N2, heading for Port Alfred. At the junction of the N10 and N2, where the R72 turns off, we stopped for some refreshments at a lovely farm stall called Nanaga. This is a great stopover. The service and prices are excellent and the Roosterkoek with cheese and homemade jam is highly recommended. There is also no shortage of Peanut Butter, in case you are a fanatic! Taking the R72 along the sunshine coast, our next stop was at the Karel Landman Monument, which is about 4km off the road. A very pleasant surprise when we turned into the Kolrant site, as the
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Editor Mike Nunan and members of his family recently embarked on a brief road trip around parts of the western and south western regions of the Eastern Cape. This is an account of what they found in some of the “hidden� corners of this highly underrated area!
e Road Trip monument itself immediately strikes you as different from the normal stone or brick construction so common in the country. Trek-leader Karel Pieter Landman (17961875) was forced to leave his farm in the Olifantshoek Ward, the eastern part of the present Alexandria district, after he suffered heavy losses in the Sixth Frontier War. In October 1837, after a long period of waiting for circumstances to improve, he led a party of 39 families and individuals, totalling almost 200 people from the same district, in a trek to Natal where he eventually settled close to the mouth of the Umgeni River near Port Natal. He was second in command at the Battle of Blood River on 16 December 1838 and was Commandant at the Battle of the White Umfolozi. He later became the Chairman of the Volksraad and magistrate of Pietermaritzburg. After Natalia was annexed by the British, he settled on the farm Uithoek, near Colenso, where he died and was buried. The globe is placed in such a way that it gives prominence to the wagon and team of oxen spanning Southern Africa, symbolising the settlement of the Voortrekkers there. The concrete
plinth was dedicated in 1938, 100 years after Landman left, and the monument was erected in 1939. There is also a hall which can be used for church services, weddings and other functions as well as a small kitchen and barbeque facilities on the large, open grounds. While we were there an elderly man arrived in his truck with two staff and proceeded to start cutting the grass. He came over to greet us and introduced himself as a Landman! What a unique situation, having a descendant taking care of the site and us meeting him there! And what a gentleman he is. When I jokingly told him that my own Great, Great Grandfather (a British soldier) probably
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fought against his family in 1836/37, he said “that was long ago, we are all South Africans now.� An interesting stop. Back on the R72, we drove through Alexandria and onto a delightful little village called Boknesstrand! Who could come up with a name like that for a beach town?
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Pure South Africanism! This area boasts some beautiful specimens of the Euphorbia triangularis, endemic to the Eastern Cape and we enjoyed their great displays along the side of the road. Our intention was to see the Dias Cross, but were told in the village that there is no road access to the cross, and one has to walk the 3,5km along the beach to get there. We did not have the time or means to walk 7km, so we moved on. We returned to the R72 and moved up to Kenton-on-Sea, which has a superb Blue Flag beach, with stunning views, dunes and safe swimming conditions for all ages.
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One feature that struck me were the huge aloe trees growing in the town, which were really impressive. I think they are the Aloe barberae. The town is situated between two river mouths, the Bushmans and the Kariega, making it rather unique. We were also pleasantly surprised to spot a few Oribi antelope on a farm along the way into the town. This was a bonus as they are not very common in our parks and not widely distributed.
We had planned to spend the night in Port Alfred, but we decided to pass through this very pretty town and proceed up to the Great Fish River mouth.
The Dias Connection Portuguese navigator Bartholomew Dias is accepted as the first European to step foot on South African soil and he erected the first of his three Padraos (stone crosses), Padrao de Sao Gregoreo in 1488 at Kwaaihoek, near the Bushmans River Mouth. In 1487 he had sailed south down the African west coast, but strong winds forced him off course and he sailed around the southernmost tip of Africa without knowing, landing in Mossel Bay on the 3rd February 1488. They continued on their journey but at some point, close to the mouth of the Great Fish River, they decided to turn back and it was on this return journey that he erected the first cross. The second cross, Padrao de Sao Filipe, was erected at Cape Maclear near the southern most tip of the Cape Peninsula. He then sailed around the Peninsula, calling it Cabo Tormentoso, Cape of Storms, erecting his third cross, Padrao of Saint James, along the Namibian coast. On Dias’ return to Portuagal, the King renamed the peninsular Cabo de Boa Esperanza, or Cape of Good Hope. Not all historians agree with this, and some believe that it was Dias himself who called it this. It matters not, both names have stuck through our history to this time.
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Da
We also wanted to stop in at the Great Fish Point lighthouse, while we had light time to spare. The short dirt road to the point and lighthouse is a bit r vehicles, but the trip is well worth it, once you get to the lighthouse, which 1898. It was especially pleasing to find the lighthouse itself and the ground good repair. Full marks to those in charge.
The views of the beaches and Great Fish river mouth in the distance are ab spectacular and this stop is well worth the effort. We then took the road b Alfred, stopping at the Marina to enjoy the very tranquil scene of the yach stretching over towards the mouth of the Kowie River, around which the to
Our first night stopover was at the Spinning Reel Beach Cottages and Log C in amongst the shrubs and trees along the beach. This is a superb holiday s ing both Bed & Breakfast cottages as well the self-catering log cabins, built Steve himself. At one of my previous game lodges I had organised and host ter’s wedding back in 2012, and we have stayed friends since. For a full rev delightful spot, see the February 2013 issue.
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d some dayrough for small h was built in ds clean and in
bsolutely back into Port hts and boats, own is built.
Cabins, nestled stopover, offert by the owner ted his daughview of this
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Da
Sunshine Coast to Addo
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fter an absolutely stunning sunrise, we left the next morning and took the R67 to Bathurst, which is host to the oldest licenced pub in the country, the legendary Pig & Whistle Inn, licensed in 1832. Originally called the Bathurst Inn, it was re-named in the 1940’s by men of 43 Air School at Port Alfred , which trained air observers for the RAF/SAAF during World War II. My mother’s sister and brother-in-law were, as it happens, the Innkeepers from 1969 to 1972, so our visit had a special family significance. The present building, built by Thomas Hartley, an 1820 settler, incorporates the original forge used by Hartley, a blacksmith, in 1821. It also contains sections of his original dwelling and is listed as a Historical Monument. Roaming around the bar, lounge and dining room, all beautifully furnished with amazing antiques, one gets that warm feeling in your stomach and if you sit quietly in front of the fireplace on a cold winter’s night, I am sure you will hear the bashing of metal on metal, the smithy at work, mingled with the banter and laughter of the many souls who spent many enjoyable hours at the bar over the past 183 years! Well worth a visit. Back onto the R67 we headed for Grahamstown, passing through the lush pineapple farming country, and the Big Pineapple, along the way.
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Grahamstown is the city of my Great Great Grandfather. He was sent there in 1835 from Ireland as a member of one of the British regiments posted to the frontier to fight in the war against both the Xhosa and the Boer Settlers. After the peace treaties were signed he and his wife decided not to return to Ireland and so began our family’s sojourn in South Africa. The city has still maintained many of the old colonial buildings along High Street running through the city centre and is one of the few remaining high streets in the country. It is divided by Church Square into Upper and Lower High Street. Ironically, Church Square is not in fact a square, but a triangle. This is because the regimental officer’s tents were originally pitched parallel to and facing the officer’s mess, at an angle to Upper High Street. Church Square is the focal point of the surrounding Victorian and Edwardian shop fronts. We drove up High Street and passed the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. George, which has the tallest spire in South Africa, reaching 54 metres into the sky! It is also the only church in the country that rings 10 Bells! We then drove out to the 1820 Settlers National Monument, situated up on Gun Hill overlooking the city, which is also the site of Fort Selwyn. The Fort was planned and erected in 1835/36 as part of the Cape Colony military defences by a Major Selwyn. Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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Day 2
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The Big Pineapple
The largest artificial pineapple in the world can be found outside the town of Bathurst, on the pineapple farm Summerhill Estate.
It is joked that a gun was fired every morning at nine o’clock to remind the civil servants in the town below that they should be at work by then! As I leaned against one of the old cannons, looking out over the city, the thought struck me that possibly, just possibly, my Great Great Grandfather could have stood there, on duty, all those years ago. The fort is also listed as an Historical Monument. It was now time to push onto the Addo Elephant Park and we took the shortest route down the N2, turning off on the R342 via Paterson, entering through the Main Gate.
The local farmers built it in homage to the prickly fruit that grows so well in this area. It has become a popular tourist attraction, not just to look at, but also to go inside and climb up the stairs to the third floor observation deck, where you can see fantastic views of the surrounding landscape.
Consisting of a fibre-glass skin covering a steel and metal superstructure, the enormous pineapple stands 16,7m high, about 70cm higher than a similar one built in Australia. Passers-by simply have to stop off and inspect this wonderful oddity that sticks out on the landscape like a sore thumb.
Inside the pineapple one can visit a 60-seater auditorium and watch a mini documentary on the pineapple producing industry. On the second and third floors there are fun displays of local agriculture and the animal and birdlife found in the area.
The Park is sanctuary to a multitude of species and abundant birdlife, including elephant, lion, black rhino, Cape buffalo, leopard, spotted hyena, a variety of antelope species, as well the unique Addo Flightless Dung Beetle. We had an overnight reservation at Spekboom Tented Camp which was opened in 2010, and spent the afternoon on a drive through the upper half of the park, finally making our way into our camp in the late afternoon. Game viewing was relatively good, if not a little repetitive, with Elephants, understandably, and kudu making up the majority of the sightings. I can honestly say that I have never seen such a concentration of Kudus in one area! Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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Day 2
Unfortunately no predators or black rhino, but we did have a great sighting of a Denham’s Bustard, also known as Stanley’s. The Addo vegetation and landscape is so very different to the bushveld parks like Kruger, but is just as beautiful. Our camp was a very pleasant surprise, set as it is in a subtropical Spekboom thicket, with the pathways cut out of the shrubbery almost in complete tunnels. There are only five tents, with adequate communal ablutions and cooking facilities. The big disappointment was the lack of hot shower water in the morning due to a lack of gas! Seems that energy shedding reaches out into other parts of our lives as well! The tents were clean and all the self-catering items one needed were available, even a can opener, which is usually the first item to disappear. Just before sunset, we took a walk to the hide and not long after we had sat down, three or four herds of Buffalo came drifting in for their evening drink.
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History of the Addo
efore European settlers moved into the Eastern Cape area, vast herds of elephants and many other mammals co-existed in relative harmony with the first inhabitants, the Khoisan. After the arrival of the settlers, hunters began to target the wildlife in the area and many of the great herds were killed during the 1700’s and 1800’s. The ivory trade boomed.
Farmers who moved into the fertile Sunday’s River valley and established farms saw the wildlife, especially the elephants, as competition for relatively scarce water. Elephants would also raid crops. Pressure on the government mounted, leading to the appointment of Major PJ Pretorius in 1919 to exterminate the Addo elephants, and he killed approximately 120 elephants between 1919 and 1920, until public sympathy again forced the government to stop the killing. Only 16 elephants remained in the thick Addo bush, sheltered on a farm of a sympathetic Mr JT Harvey, ironically a previous opponent of the elephants. The park now supports one of the most dense elephant populations in Africa. This success story in elephant conservation saw the herd grow from a mere 11 elephants in 1931 to more 400 elephants today. Land was set aside as an elephant sanctuary in 1925 and the park was proclaimed in 1931. The park warden, SH Trollope, had the difficult and dangerous task of driving the herd from Harvey’s farm into the reserve. In the early years management of the park was made difficult by the fact that no elephant-proof fence surrounded it. Farmers and elephants continued to clash and passing trains also killed two elephants. Finally, in the 1950’s, Graham Armstrong invented an elephant-proof fence so effective that it is still used around parts of the park today. The fence was constructed using old tram rails and lift cables. Park rangers breathed a sigh of relief when it apparently stood up to the largest bull in the park named Hapoor. (“nick in the ear”). This bull was the dominant male in the park for 24 years, and when he was finally deposed, he sought further territories and became the only elephant to ever leave the park. He simply stepped through and over the fence, but due to his well-known aggressive nature, rangers had to end the bull’s life. Feeding the elephants citrus fruits after the successful enclosure of the park, in order to keep the elephants inside, was carried out in the early years, but this practice was eventually stopped. Although the park was originally created for the protection of one species, conservation efforts today embrace the protection of the region’s unique biological diversity. Parts of five of South Africa’s seven biomes, or major habitat types, are conserved within the park today. Due to bold expansion efforts, these parts now stretch from the coast to the Karoo, which has seen the park grow into a massive 240 000 hectare of terrestrial habitat and 120 000 hectare of Marine protected area in Algoa Bay. The expansion of the park has also allowed the addition of new habitat for the growing elephant herd, as well as the re-introduction of animals that historically occurred in the area, such as lions, hyena, cheetah and black rhino. From humble beginnings, the Addo Elephant National Park now boasts magnificent diversity and the valuable conservation of the natural and cultural heritage of the Eastern Cape. From Wild in Africa magazine, by Megan Bradfield. Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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Day This was a superb opportunity to take some natural photographs as the animals behaved as Buffaloes do, unaware of our presence at all, as we silently sat behind our wooden wall, about thirty metres from them. A major problem with game viewing from a vehicle is that it is always difficult to get pictures of the animals as they normally behave. If they do not run away from the vehicle, they usually simply stand and stare, so I always enjoy viewing them when they feel comfortable enough to continue with their natural behaviour. We spent a very pleasant evening around the camp fire, after yet another fantastic African sunset.
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Wild Cats and the Valley of the Flags
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p early the next morning and after braving the very cold water in the shower, we set off into the Park. The plan was to be driving through the Park as soon as we could in order to spend a bit more time searching for those elusive lions and rhinos, but unfortunately it was not our day. So we exited the Park at Addo Heights gate and headed onto the town of Addo itself, where we turned onto the R336, which would take us to the R75, heading for Wild Cats World and the Daniell Cheetah Project. We were determined to see some cats, even if they were in enclosures! The aim of this project is to play a part in the conservation of the Cheetah (Acinonyx jubatis), the
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re-establishment of pure gene lines, as well as educating the public about the importance of conserving these amazing cats. The project was started in 2001 with just three cats and now boasts other cats such as Lion, Leopard, Caracal and Serval, as well as a family of Meerkats (Suricates), which never fail to attract attention and amuse. One hour guided tours are available from 09h00 -16h45, seven days a week, at the very reasonable price of ZAR60 per person and the tours are conducted in a professional, yet friendly manner. There is also opportunity, by prior reservation, to join the Cheetahs for their daily walk. You can browse around a wellstocked curio shop and tearoom where you can enjoy coffee, tea and light meals, which was just what we needed. For more information about this very worthwhile project, go to the Daniell Cheetah Project and give your support to the conservation of this beautiful cat. It was time to move on to our third night stop over and we left the R75 and took the R329, passing through the small Karoo town of Steytlerville. Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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It was a Saturday afternoon and the town seemed deserted and ghostlike! On entering the town one is greeted by a row of standards down the centre of the main street on which are displayed the coats of arms of families of all population groups in the district. This is a unique feature in South Africa. Just before we reached Steytlerville, we drove through the amazing Noorspoort Pass and we simply had to stop in order to take in the vast beauty and stunning architecture displayed all around us. I am not sure if the photographs can do the actual visuals any justice at all. Just before the end we found painted onto the rocks along the side of the road all the old flags of the past provinces and republics of our country, ending with two huge South African flags, the old and the new. An interesting, unexpected display, out there in the wilds. The locals call this section the Valley of the Flags. Onwards towards Willowmore, we found our turnoff which would link us with the T3 Baviaans route, which runs along the Groot River. Our destination was the Timbila Game Reserve 24
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where we had reservations at Mhlangeni Camp, one of three camps on the reserve. We were checked in by the very friendly staff, handed the electronic gate key to the reserve, and then, and this is a first for me in all my travels, we were given a freshly baked loaf of homemade bread as our welcome gift! What a special, wonderful, original hospitality idea! We entered the reserve and were soon unpacked and enjoying a cold beer at this unique, rustic yet cosy tented camp, built right on the banks of the river. We still had some daylight left, so we decided to take a short drive through the reserve, in search of both the Black Springbuck and Black Wildebeest, both of which are not easily seen in most of our National Parks.
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Fortunately we soon found them in the open plains, plus some Giraffe and surprisingly, some European Fallow Deer, which are believed to have been imported to our shores by Cecil Rhodes, Prime Minister of the Cape Province, in 1890, to roam around the gardens at his residence in Constantia. Since then they have been introduced to numerous private farms, especially in the Eastern Cape. Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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Day 3
The roads in the reserve are pretty tough and rocky and the short trip up to the viewing point was our first introduction to some 4 x 4 driving. Little did we know what still lay ahead of us! Back in camp we settled down around the camp fire and enjoyed a great barbeque meal under a spectacular African sky, after yet another awesome sunset. This 3-tented camp is highly recommended for its location, uniqueness and privacy, sleeping only six people. For more information you can go to www.timbila.co.za
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Book Wild
Field guide to Mammals of Southern Africa G
reater southern Africa has a wealth of mammal species, almost
400 – all of which are covered in this fully updated, comprehensive field guide. Specifications Now expanded to include species found in Author: Chris & Mathilde Stuart Angola, Zambia and Malawi, it has also been Title: Stuarts’ Field Guide to Mamextensively revised to include: the most remals of Southern Africa cent research and taxonomy; revised distriISBN: 9781775841111 bution maps and new images; colour coded Format: Softcover grouping of families; spoor and size icons; Release Date: March 2015 skull photographs, grouped for easy comparImprint: Nature ison; detailed descriptions of each species, Pages: 456 offering insight into key identification charPrice: R330.00 acters, typical behaviour, preferred habitat, (Click on the Struik food choice, reproduction and longevity. logo for more information) OOK BESKIKBAAR IN AFRIKAANS.
Wild Flowers of Namaqualand
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amaqualand is justifiably famous for the floral wonderland it becomes in spring, when seas of bright flowers carpet the land. Astonishingly, the carpet comprises some 3,800 species, of which 28% are endemic. This book introduces nearly 600 species, highlighting those most commonly found, most conspicuous, spectacular or interesting, as well as endemics. An introduction touches on the species selection for the book, the climatic and topographical subregions within Namaqualand, plant names and uses, and conservation issues. The concise species descriptions also give seed and fruit details, uses, local growing conditions and flowering times, along with beautiful full-colour photographs. Specifications Author: Anneliese Le Roux This is a must-have guide for visitors to NamaTitle: Wild Flowers of qualand, or for anyone interNamaqualand ested in the wild flowers of ISBN: 9781775841319 southern Africa. Format: Softcover Annelise le Roux has an Release Date: June 2015 M.Sc. in botany. In the emImprint: Nature ploy of CapeNature for 38 Pages: 480 years, she has concentrated Price: R350.00 her research on the plants (Click on the Struik logo for and conservation of Namamore information) qualand. Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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Eastern Cape R Baviaanskloof - Part 1!
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fter a good night’s sleep, a hot shower and quick snack, we packed up, dropping off the gate key on our way out.
We were on our way to Baviaanskloof Wilderness and Nature Reserve, where we would overnight close to the western gate before completing the last section the next day. We left the T3 route at Fullarton and linked back onto the concrete section of the R329, to Willowmore. Along this stretch we saw many Bat-eared Foxes. In fact we saw as many live ones as we did dead ones. We had not seen any in the days before, so this sudden exposure was a real treat, notwithstanding the fact that many had been killed, which was obviously very sad. We debated about the possible reasons that there were so many in that particular area and also why so many seemed to be so prone to getting smashed up by vehicles. It was not that they were slow, sluggish creatures, as witnessed when they dashed off at a very quick sprint on our approach. Aside from the obvious fact of pure statistics, could it be that they were completely blinded by the lights when caught on the road and could not move off? It made for an interesting discussion, but needless to say, we got no pictures! The town of Willowmore (above) is the gateway to the Baviaanskloof when entering from the western side. Although it was Sunday, we found a few shops and restaurants open, plus a service station for fuel. We made our last shopping stop and got underway. The N9 national road goes through the town so it is well supported, unlike those unlucky towns and villages in our country which do not get any passing traffic. 28
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Road Trip
Day 4
There were many bikers in town who had made the journey up from Jeffreys Bay through the Wilderness area as part of their Sunday run. Chatting to them gave us some idea of the condition of the road we still had to travel and it did not sound too comforting!
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Day 4
A few km’s out of town we connected with the R332 and settled onto the T1 route, which was cut by legendary engineer Thomas Bain between 1880 and 1890. Well, whatever the bikers had told us was a complete understatement.! The road was incredibly corrugated and rough, with some really bad patches of rain damage. But, we had come to see the natural beauty of the Baviaans, so we pressed on through the majestic plains, and were soon rewarded when we reached the incredibly beautiful Nuwekloofpas (right). Again, the structure of the rock formations, the views of the valleys and the sheer beauty of this stretch was mind boggling. Absolutely stunning! The first interesting sight is the Sleutel or Key (right), a massive rock formation which has split right through from top to bottom. It is so called because if it ever topples over it will lock the Baviaanskloof from the west. The other sight is the Hangleer or Hanging Ladder, the remnants of which can be seen above you. It was built by honey gatherers to gain access to the bee’s nests beneath the overhang of the cliff. Only a couple of rungs still exist. We stopped for a break along the way, actually trespassing on private land I am sorry to say. Because of the chance of being completely covered in dust by a passing vehicle, I did not want to stop on the side of the road so when I found an old farm gate open, I turned onto the sparsely used track which led to one of those many ruined, abandoned, broken down buildings so unique to the Karoo, complete with its broken down windmill. Parking in a hollow area behind the building, we enjoyed a peaceful stop, giving us opportunity to soak in the splendid views and vista. Apologies to the land owner, but we left only our tracks! 30
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A little further on two other rock formations, The Crocodile and The Seven Dwarves, can be seen on the left and right of the road, separated by the Campbell memorial to the victims, of which 14 were lost from the Campbell family, of a flood in 1916. Hereafter the road goes mainly through farmland but the mountain vistas on either side remain just as attractive. We also stopped at Vero’s Restaurant & Craft Shop for a cup of coffee and a browse through the little shop, which was most interesting. Speaking to Vero herself, she told us that she had lived in her little home, which also doubles as the Restaurant, for the past 35 years. She served us on a picnic table outside with a welcome cup of hot, steaming coffee while we chatted about the trouble the baboons gave her as she tried to protect her small vegetable garden from them! Onward through Studtis point and it was time to find our accommodation for the night, which was to be at The Clay Cottages, S33o33,736’ E24o04,994’ one of the options offered by Doringkloof Bush Camp, about 14km before the Western Gate of the Wilderness Reserve itself. Taking the turnoff to the camp, we found ourselves at a beautiful small dam, with camping facilities and reception office, but without a single person to be seen! I went to the little office area only to find a note on the window which read-“Call Chris on the radio.” Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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Day 4 So I did that and Chris responded immediately. After greetings and identification, he directed us back to the T1 past the gate we had turned into, where we would find the turn off to the Cottages. No problem, we found the place without any trouble. I am not sure how many travellers have been checked into their overnight accommodation via the radio? The name of the cottages is exactly what they are-two cottages consisting of two bedrooms, modern shower and ablutions and a fully equipped kitchen in each cottage, with all the walls constructed of clay. The interior roofing is plastered with pages of articles and pictures from local South African magazines. Very unique and very interesting. Without television, one can always lie in bed and catch up on the doings of some old celebrities I suppose. The keys to both units were in the doors, the hot water donkey was stacked with wood and yes, there is electricity and the fridges were switched on. But here is the best surprise! There was a wi-fi link from Chris’ office, somewhere out there, and everybody was able to check emails and send pictures from around the fireplace! No electric or gas geyser, but definitely wi-fi connection! That must also be a first for me. Thank you, Chris, our stay was wonderful and you have a great spot there! We had survived the first day through the Baviaans and pondered what awaited us on the last leg, the next day. Our day was rounded off by a magnificent Baviaans sunset! Go to www.doringkloof4x4.co.za for reservations and information about this delightful spot. 32
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Baviaanskloof o you know which is the third-largest nature reserve in South Africa, after Kruger National
Park and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park? Would you ever guess its Baviaanskloof? The Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area, one of South Africa’s Natural Heritage Sites, comprises around 270 000 hectares of unspoiled, rugged mountainous terrain. Starting in the East at Komdomo, the scenic trip of immense contrasts, ranging from the lush fertility of the Gamtoos River valley, through the rugged ports (gaps), passes and mountains, to the stark beauty of the plains approaching Willomore, a total distance of about 203km. The Kouga and Baviaanskloof Mountain rise and protect the valley below along either side. The area is characterized by its extreme diverse landscape due to the region’s high ecological, topographic and climatic diversity. The colourful cliffs and rock formations are characteristic of the predominant hard sandstone, which is part of the Table Mountain group of sediments. As part of the Cape Floral Kingdom and due to the areas diverse habitat, the spectacular landscapes harbour more than 1000 different species. These include species of the well known Erica and Protea families. The flora of the area encompasses a great range of genetic diversity, which include genetically distinct and ancient cycads. Two surviving species of these ancient plants are found in the Baviaanskloof. The Reserve is also home to a Spekboom rehabilitation project. Some of the large mammal species found in the reserve are the Cape Leopard, Cape Buffalo, Kudu, Cape Mountain Zebra, Red Hartebeest, Bushbuck, Mountain Reedbuck, Eland and Baboon. Baviaan was the original name given to the Baboon, of which there are many. For a great story and increidible pictures of the Baviaanskloof, check out Scott Ramsay’s “Big, beautiful things happening in the Baviaans”
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Baviaanskloof - Part 2! Day 5
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t about 05h30 the next morning I got up to light the very fancy hot water donkey boiler and in no time we had all had a hot shower, a hearty breakfast and were off on our way. Back on the T1 we continued to the Western Gate of the Wilderness, at Rooikloof. After the necessary 4 x 4 permit payment and formalities, which were carried out by the very friendly ranger on duty, we proceeded down the road, past the ruins of the farm Coleskeplaas where there is good view of Scholtzberg, the highest peak at 1625 metres. In these highest parts is to be found Alpine fynbos, a shorter variety than usually seen. The road then passes down Grasnek Pass. There is a good look out point at the top of the pass which affords splendid vistas of the ruggedness of the terrain. In the valley succulent thicket predominates. We then climbed over Holgat Pass, our first real testing section. Some way up is a great view of the coneshaped hill Langkop. 34
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At the top of the pass are the remains of a unique cableway (left) used by a farmer in the 60’s to transport livestock, labourers and materials across the gorge, cutting a full day’s trip on foot down to a few minutes. Up and down we drove, going over many lowlevel bridges, each with crispy, clear, cold water flowing over them, but they were no trouble for the high Land Rover. These tranquil, peaceful and beautiful scenes add a touch of gentleness to the otherwise hard driving. Finally we came to the last section of the Wilderness Area, which was the scary Combrinck’s Pass (Click on the picture for a Virtual Trip down this scary pass!). This piece of road was really badly damaged by rains and rock falls and if you do not like steep drops, be sure to sit behind the driver! An amazing experience and we were fortunate to only have to wait once for a vehicle coming the other way, as the road is narrow and the turns are tight! Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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This stretch includes beautiful yellowwoods, white stinkwoods and Cape figs. We then reached the Eastern Gate, exited the Reserve and proceed through the rich farming area of Cambria and made our way for a quick look at the Kouga Dam wall, just 7km off the R332. The construction team were awarded an Outstanding Civil Engineering Award by the South African Institute of Civil Engineers in 1970, soon after completion of the wall, and it sure is a good looking structure. Water from this dam serves a very big area, being used both for human consumption and agriculture. Back on the R332 we pushed on through the cuttings to Patensie and along here is the last of the Baviaan’s rock formations, known as Queen Victoria’s Bust (right), so look out for it. We had to drop off my nephew at the Port Elizabeth airport so it was back onto the N2 and then back to the lighthouse at Cape St Francis, where we had started five days earlier. What can be said of the Baviaanskloof that has already not been said? Not much I guess. This section of our country is nothing short of amazing and “scenes such as those must have been gazed upon by angels”, to quote David Livingstone when he first saw the Victoria Falls. And so ended our short, yet extremely packed meander around but a small area of the Eastern Cape. The total distance was only 1350 km but there was not a day that was not filled with beautiful scenery, new sights and exciting places. This is why I so enjoy travel. 36
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Day 5
Photo Wild
Eastern Cape Moments Pictures by Mike Nunan (et al)
Bushman’s River
Pictures of animals, birds, scenery and plants from the epic Eastern Cape Road Trip Africa Wild experience - Autumn 2015
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Cheetah at Daniell Cheetah Centre
Elephants in Addo
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Aloe Tree in Kenton-on-Sea
Baviaans Craft Shop
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Water Crossing in the Baviaanskloof
Eland Grazing in Addo
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Load Shedding Karoo-style Aloes in the Baviaanskloof
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From Top Left, Clockwi Oribi
Black-backed Jackal Steenbok
Steenbok on the Concre Warthog Lechwe
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ise:
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ete
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From Top Left, Clockwise: Mountain Tortoise Bushbuck Red Hartebeest Plumbago auriculator Zebra Spot-the-Vervet-Monkeys
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From Top Left, Clockwise: Black Headed Heron Southern Boubou Jackal Buzzard Pale Chanting Goshawk Blue Cranes Pied Starling Black Oyster Catchers & Swift Terns African Shelduck Ostrich Red-Necked Spurfowl (centre)
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Raptor Ringing
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outh Africa’s raptors are important environmental indicators and monitoring of, and research into several species helps to improve our knowledge and inform conservation decision-making. Given the growing interest in raptor ringing, marking and tracking in South Africa, the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) and BirdLife South Africa are of the opinion that the current approach to these activities should be reviewed. Information obtained through the tracking of birds with satellite and other sophisticated tracking devices can provide answers to important research questions that can ultimately contribute to their conservation. This will provide conservationists and decision-makers with a better understanding of movements of birds which can help inform placement of wind turbines and other infrastructure which can pose a significant risk to some bird species. Handling birds and attaching devices to them can, however, pose inherent risks for the individual birds. These risks must be minimised, and must be justified in terms of the expected science and conservation outcomes for the species from the deployment. The ad hoc fitment of tracking devices where the research questions are unclear is considered to be unethical. A workshop to discuss the requirements to undertake these ringing, marking and tracking activities was therefore recently held at Ithala Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal, and co-hosted by the EWT’s Birds of Prey Programme and BirdLife South Africa’s Terrestrial Bird Conservation Programme. The outcomes of the discussions will provide guidelines in terms of ensuring a more rigorous approach with regard to the training of researchers and the permitting of projects which involves these activities. The South African Bird Ringing Unit (SAFRING) keeps a record of all bird ringing undertaken in the country. A “ringing” qualification is also granted through SAFRING following a rigorous training process. All ringing, marking and tracking projects have to comply with the relevant legislation which is ultimately controlled by the provincial nature conservation ordinances. The meeting was of the opinion that, for all projects involving marking and tracking, the granting of provincial permits should be subject to ethical approval by a relevant ethics committee. The workshop participants also agreed to the establishment of a committee to oversee projects which involve this work, following the example of the British Ornithological Trust, UK. The advisory committee will comprise representatives from relevant organisations, such as SAFRING, South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI), BirdLife South Africa and the EWT. It was further suggested that norms and standards should be developed to provide clear guidance on the sharing of marking and tracking data as well as the storage of such information in a central database. Researchers and specialists are also encouraged to share the lessons they have learnt from their work. This would improve tracking methods and techniques, thus minimising impacts on birds during future studies. For more information contact conservation@birdlife.org.za or andreb@ewt.org.za 48
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