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The gap between being favored and actually achieving victory cannot be understated, but with explosive displays of aerial surfing in every heat he surfed Italo Ferreira proved the odds were right to become surfing’s first Olympic Gold Medalist. Photo ISA / Sean Evans
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John John Florence Photo: ISA / Pablo Jiminez
E D I T O R ' S
N O T E
Surfing, in the Eye of the Beholder By Andrew Oliver
Bianca Buitendag Photo: ISA / Sean Evans
There is no question that the inclusion of surfing to the Olympics was the biggest thing to ever happen to the sport. As a platform the Games dwarf the reach of the comparatively niche audiences of the WSL and other independent surf events. With the WSL making clear the lengths they will go to appeal to the non-endemic audience, the question remained where in the balance the Olympics would fall in presenting the sport to the biggest audience it has ever reached. Would it leave surfing purists cringing in their seats as it dove head-first towards the lowest common denominator, or would it celebrate an authentic representation?
Any seasoned observer of surf competitions, or sport in general, can understandably become numb or even annoyed by the incessant noise and hype that surrounds an event. It's understood that these things have to pay for themselves one way or another but, as are most things in life, it’s a balancing act. The eternal question being, under the guise of appealing to a broader audience, how far will an event stray from the essence of the very thing being celebrated? Up until this summer’s Olympics, the WSL was the biggest game in town, and they have shown they’re willing to venture pretty far from what most of us could agree is the “core” of surf culture - look no further than The Ultimate Surfer as an example of their strategy to garner more eyeballs. Of all the characters, stories, and modes of communicating our awesome pastime, the WSL in their broadcast TV debut, chose the tired reality TV contest format, and all of the spectacle of manufactured interpersonal drama the genre is known for.
Partly due to the Covid restrictions of the Olympic Games, the scaled back production was able to strip away some of the expected distraction and focus primarily on the athletes and their performances. And herein laid the event's true success, from laymen to lifelong surfers, viewers were able to appreciate the athletic mastery on display, and relate to the tangible elation of Carissa Moore and Italo Feirrera as they conquered their Olympic dreams. At its best this is what the Olympics does, and surfing rose to the occasion. Among the many skeptics, there was an anticipation of failure, or even embarrassment, in the sports debut. But as the first ever Olympic Surfing Medalists took the podium, even the cynics among us could join in on the collective pride we as surfers all rightfully shared, as we celebrated not only the world's best surfers, but the sport itself.
Obviously, the soul of a thing is by its very definition intangible. The composition of what surfing is, who it’s for, or how it should be done is as varied and complex as the individuals who participate in it. There's no hard and fast rule, nor should there be, that someone whose entire surfing experience is summed up by a few lessons on vacation is barred from enjoying or participating in “surf culture.” But there is a clear delineation between the depth of experience and knowledge of said novice and someone who has dedicated their life to the art of wave riding. In running a surf event, or presenting it to a broader audience, which ends of these extremes should be catered to? 18
ELI OLSON O’N E I L L I N C. 2021 | U S .O N E I L L .CO M
S H O P T H E H Y P E R F R E A K H Y D R O B O A R D S H O RT AT T H E S E PA RT I C I PAT I N G R E TA I L E R S : H I C – T & C S U R F S H O P – D E J AV U S U R F – H I -T E C H S P O RT S – S U R F N S E A – O S H I M A S U R F – L O C A L M O T I O N
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USA’s Carissa Moore and Brazil’s Italo Ferreira Crowned Historic First Olympic Surfing Champions Photos ISA / Sean Evans, Pablo Jiminez and Ben Reed
After three days of youthful, high performance action at Tsurigasaki Beach, Surfing’s debut appearance in the Olympic Games has culminated with historic Gold Medal performances. Brazil’s Italo Ferreira and USA’s Carissa Moore rose to the pinnacle of Surfing and forever etched their names into the history books as the first Olympic Surfing Champions at Tokyo 2020. Their top performances came in the presence of IOC President Thomas Bach, who joined ISA President Fernando Aguerre at the Surfing venue on Tuesday to meet the world’s best surfers and experience one of the Games new, youth-oriented sports. Ferreira’s Gold has earned him the trifecta of top surfing accomplishments – a World Surf League Championship Tour Title in 2019, a World Surfing Games Gold Medal also in 2019, and now an Olympic Gold Medal. “All of my accomplishments have been important to me, but I think this Olympic Gold means the most because I was the first one,” said Ferreira. “But all surfers made history here. Every surfer has a piece of this Gold Medal. “This has been quite a story for me. I started surfing on a cooler top when I was a kid before I got my first real board and won my first event. Because of [my upbringing] I have a lot of passion for the sport.
“I truly believe that the Olympics will change our lives. Not just the medalists, but for all the surfers that competed in this historic event.”
Italo Ferreira
Moore, a 4-time WSL World Champion and ISA World Surfing Games Copper Medalist, has now added a prestigious Olympic Medal to her trove of accomplishments. “The scale of this event felt so much bigger,” said Moore. “Getting to share the sport with so many people that maybe have never even watched surfing was super special. As a Hawaiian, just seeing Duke Kahanamoku’s dream come true to have surfing in the Olympics is super special. It’s a big time for surfing to be recognized on this level.” Rounding out the podiums were Japan’s Kanoa Igarashi with Men’s Silver, South Africa’s Bianca Buitendag with Women’s Silver, Australia’s Owen Wright with Men’s Bronze, and Japan’s Amuro Tsuzuki with Women’s Bronze. Two Surfing medals for host nation Japan highlight growth since Olympic inclusion The host nation Japan showcased their surfing talent throughout the week, highlighted by becoming the only nation to earn two medals in the Olympic Surfing competition (Igarashi Silver, Tsuzuki Bronze). ISA / Sean Evans
Kanoa Igarashi
Owen Wright
Carissa Moore
Bianca Buitendag
Amura Tsuzuki
ISA / Sean Evans
ISA / Sean Evans
ISA /Ben Reed
T O K Y O Since Surfing’s inclusion on the sports program in 2016, Japanese surfing has shown marked improvement on the global stage.
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Brazil’s Italo Ferreira made history by winning the first Men’s Olympic Surfing heat. Photo: ISA / Ben Reed
Team Japan earned their first World Surfing Games Gold Medal in history in 2018, followed by a Bronze Medal performance in 2019, and a Silver Medal in 2021. Surfers such as Kanoa Igarashi, Mahina Maeda, Amuro Tsuzuki, and Hiroto Ohhara, to name a few, have been leading the charge and demonstrating the emergence of the sport in the land of the rising sun. “The announcement of the Games here in Tokyo sparked something in Japanese surfing,” said Igarashi, “You can see the evolution of each surfer in Japan. We are accustomed to seeing the Japanese Olympians that are here competing, but there is a long list of local surfers that are benefitting from the Olympics as well. “I feel like Japan was already on its way up and the Olympics definitely gave it a boost. My dream one day is to use this boost to push more Japanese surfers, more Asian surfers, to be on Tour. Hopefully one day we have just as many top surfers as America, Australia, and Brazil.”
Photo: ISA / Sean Evans
Owen Wright’s podium finish epitomizes Olympism, determination In 2015 Australia’s Owen Wright suffered a head injury while surfing at Pipeline that kept him away from competitive surfing for more than a year. Wright’s perseverance and determination embodies the values that are shared by all athletes in the Olympic Games, and his podium finish represents the pinnacle of his road to recovery.
Carissa Moore made history by winning the first Women’s Olympic Surfing heat. Photo: ISA / Sean Evans 22
A DREAM A CENTURY IN THE MAKING Congratulations from the Duke’s Restaurants ‘ohana
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Fulfilling Duke’s dream to have surfing in the Olympics!
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“Without my friends and family, I couldn’t have done it,” said Wright. “I couldn’t have done it without the Olympic coaches and the staff here, they really helped me get to one hundred percent and get through that recovery from my Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI). That’s the reason I’m standing here. That fueled me on to get to this position. As a surfer, a lot of people probably didn’t count me as a medal hopeful, but I had the strength from what I’ve been through. I thank my team. I thank my wife, my children, all of them. “I have goals. I’ve been picturing myself here with a medal around my neck, and another one is to finish up in 2024, after Chopes (Teahupo’o, the location for Paris 2024 Olympic Surfing). That’s my goal, that’s the way I want to end it. I would love to represent Australia there, being at Tahiti I count myself in every day and I can’t wait for that opportunity for gold.”
USA’s John John Florence Photo: ISA / Pablo Jimenez
Duke’s dream comes full circle with Hawaiian Gold Medalist Duke Kahanamoku, an Olympic Gold Medalist in Swimming revered as the father of modern surfing, planted the seed of Olympic Surfing in 1912 when he first expressed his wish to see the sport included in the Olympics while atop the podium at the Stockholm Games. More than a century later, Duke’s dream has come full circle. Not only did the sport gain inclusion in the Games, but Moore, a Hawaiian, became the first Women Olympic Champion. Moore spoke about the legacy of Duke and her connection to his Olympic dream. “Duke Kahanamoku is our ambassador of Aloha,” said Moore. “I recently watched a documentary about him and really
Japan’s Kanoa Igarashi shows his disappointment with his performance in the Gold Medal Match, but at only 23 years of age, a long future of Olympic Games awaits him. Photo: ISA / Sean Evans
Bronze Medalist Amuro Tsuzuki represents one of the many young, bright talents that will represent Japan for years to come. Photo: ISA / Sean Evans
Keanu Asing
( N E W S T O R E LO C AT I O N ! )
T O K Y O got to learn about his life, how he treated people unconditionally, with love and kindness. He brought surfing to many parts of the world, and it was his dream to have surfing in the Olympics. “To be a Hawaiian and know what he did, and hopefully share that same Aloha spirit when I travel the world, is something that I would also like to do. I just want to say a big thank you to the ISA and Fernando for all the hard work they have put in to bringing us here today and accomplishing Duke’s dream.”
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Silver Medalist Bianca Buitendag and Gold Medalist Carissa Moore embrace after their Gold Medal Match, showing the love and camaraderie that binds all the Olympians. Photo: ISA / Ben Reed
Typhoon swell delivers opportunity for Olympic Surfing finals day While some Olympic sports look to postpone their events due to the approaching tropical storm, the Olympic surfers welcomed the increased wave heights that the storm directed towards the Chiba coast. The third and final day of competition kicked off with the best conditions of the event yet, with 5-8 foot waves and a favorable side/offshore wind. The world’s best surfers did not let the opportunity to go waste, displaying an array of maneuvers highlighted by a near-perfect 9.73 from Ferreira in the Quarterfinals.
Fernando Aguerre, aka "The Dream Maker"
Photos ISA / Pablo Jimenez
USA’s Caroline Marks Photo: ISA / Pablo Jimenez
The Men’s Gold Medal Match determined the first Olympic Champion in history, with Ferreira facing off against Igarashi in a highly anticipated matchup. Ferreira got the heat off to a rough start, breaking his board on his first wave. However, after returning to shore to fetch a new board, Ferreira was able to paddle out and regain his composure. Contrary to his previous heats where he resorted to aerial maneuvers, Italo used his rail surfing to put the pressure on his opponent. Igarashi was never able to get a feel for the conditions, 26
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and only managed to muster a heat total of 6.6 that was no match to Ferreira’s 15.14. The women’s final capped off the day, pairing up USA’s Moore against the underdog 17th seeded, Buitendag of South Africa. While Buitendag struggled to find waves with opportunity that allowed her to showcase her patented backhand surfing that got her to this point in the event, Moore was able to display her world-class talent. Two waves in the 7-point range gave Moore a total of 14.93, leading her to a comfortable victory over Buitendag’s 8.46 total. Buitendag bids farewell to competitive Surfing South Africa’s Silver Medalist Buitendag shared an update on her professional career after winning a medal, explaining that this experience was the perfect way to bid farewell to the sport that has given her so much.
The Men’s Olympic podium flaunts their medals. From left to right: Kanoa Igarashi (JPN), Italo Ferreira (BRA), and Owen Wright (AUS). Photo: ISA / Pablo Jimenez
“I felt like I had made the most of all the opportunities that I had in my sporting career,” said Buitendag. “I just had to finalize and respect the commitments that I have made to myself and my country. I felt like this would be the perfect opportunity for closure. It’s true [that I am retiring]. For personal reasons and many others, I am looking forward to the next season of my life.”
The Women’s podium from left to right: Bianca Buitendag (RSA), Carissa Moore (USA), and Amuro Tsuzuki (JPN). Photo: ISA / Pablo Jimenez
Medalists Men Gold – Italo Ferreira (BRA) Silver – Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) Bronze – Owen Wright (AUS) Women Gold – Carissa Moore (USA) Silver – Bianca Buitendag (RSA) Bronze – Amuro Tsuzuki (JPN)
The Women’s podium from left to right: Bianca Buitendag (RSA), Carissa Moore (USA), and Amuro Tsuzuki (JPN). Photo: ISA / Pablo Jimenez
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When you surf five times a day, and do maneuvers like this in every session, then yes, a Gold Medal may be in your future. While that may be an exaggeration, in Italo Ferreira’s case just slightly. And yes, he pulled this ridiculous air. Photo: Latronic
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It can be argued that no surfer has had more influence on Hawaiian Surfing in the last 15 years than Carissa Moore, and that was before her Olympic Gold Medal. The Ambassador of Aloha, the Queen of Stoke, and the embodiment of Duke’s dream making Hawai’i and the sport of surfing proud. Photo: Brent Bielmann
ISA / Ben Reed
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Will a Gold Medal ever be within John John Florence’s grasp, with 2024 slated to be held at Teahupo’o the odds are in his favor. That’s the amazing thing about surfing, while John didn’t Medal at this Olympics, if the event were ever to be held in conditions like those pictured here, you’d be a fool to bet against John walking away with gold. Photo: Brian Bielmann
ISA / Ben Reed
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One of the great aspects of the Olympics is the level of pride athletes from around the globe bring to their home countries. No surfer embodied this more than Kanoa Igarahsi as the face of Japanese Surfing, and arguably Olympic surfing altogether. Kanoa lived up to the spotlight and represented the Olympic Surfing Dream well with his historic Silver Medal finish. Photo: Latronic
ISA / Sean Evans
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If there were ever a surfer who fit the bill of an Olympian it would be Michel Bourez, heck his nickname is, “The Spartan.” The Tahitian powerhouse was always gonna have an uphill battle in the tricky conditions of the Japanese beachbreaks, but you know this World Tour veteran will be doing everything possible to represent France at his homebreak in 2024. Photo: Brian Bielmann
ISA / Sean Evans
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Two time WSL World Champion Gabriel Medina is one of the most feared and dominant competitors of his generation, and was favorite to win gold, among compatriot and eventual winner Italo Ferreira. While Ferreira has had some significant performances, this season's World Tour has far and away been dominated by Medina. Ferreira’s Gold Medal may be extra fuel for Medina to clinch his third world title. Photo: Brent Bielmann
ISA / Ben Reed
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Brisa Hennessy is a modern surfing nomad, dividing her time between Costa Rica, Fiji, Hawai’i, and the WSL World Tour. While Brisa proudly represented Costa Rica in the Tokyo Olympics, her surfing talents were primarily groomed in the waves and competitive junior circuit of Hawai’i, meaning she had plenty of fans cheering for her from the islands. Photo: Frieden
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Kolohe Andino’s powerful and explosive surfing was well suited for the conditions of Shidashita Beach. But, unfortunately, his competitive highlight at the 2020 Olympics was upsetting his teammate John John Florence in the third round. The friendly fire did not dampen the mood as all were there to celebrate Carissa Moore bringing home gold for Team USA. ISA /Ben Reed
Photo: Latronic 44
- Hawaiian Gold Congratulations, Carissa!
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The grom of Team USA, 19 years old Caroline Marks is one of the most exciting young talents of the last few years. And, while she didnt leave Tokyo with the results she hoped, it’s likely will be seeing a lot more of her in future Olympic competition. Photo: Frieden
ISA / Pablo Jiminez
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W e s t o n - W e b b Like Brisa Hennessy, and Mahina Maeda who represented Japan, Tatiana Weston-Webb is an extraordinary talent who was raised on the waves of Hawai’i, who in Tatiana’s case, represented Brazil. There may not be an official tally on this, but it’s clear that when it comes to surfing, no place generates more Olympians than Hawai’i.
ISA / Pablo Jiminez
Photo: Frieden 48
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ISA / Sean Evans
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While Carissa and Italo walked away with the golden hardwear, it was Australia’s Owen Wright who won the unofficial “Spirit Award.” The WSL veteran, has overcome unimaginable hardships due to a traumatic brain injury suffered during a freesurf at Pipeline, and to see him fight his way back to the competitive elite and punctuate a steroid career with a Bronze finish at surfing’s Olympic debut, is a testament to Owen’s talent and tenacity. Photo: Brent Bielmann
ISA / Pablo Jiminez
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Hailing far from any traditional competitive surfing breeding ground, Italy’s Leo Fioravanti has forged a remarkable career through his passion and love for the sport. It’s fitting that a surfer like Leo, who exemplifies just how global the sport of surfing has become, represented his country in its Olympic debut. Photo: Brian Bielmann
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Hawaiian Qualifiers Met with Idyllic Kewalos Conditions for Stop Two of The Rip Curl GromSearch Presented by Banzai Bowls
Shion Crawford An unexpected east-swell groomed by moderate trade winds graced the basin, providing the perfect setting for the second stop of the Rip Curl GromSearch season. With the gorgeous weather and idyllic surf conditions on offer, it was a welcome change of pace to the Covid-induced competitive sabbatical endured in the islands of late. The groms and parents alike were thrilled for competition for the first time since the 2019
Pipeline Masters. The 2021 season marks the first time that GromSearch has implemented priority, and with the tight Kewalos take off, it certainly was a treat for the competitors to sit and be a little more selective, as opposed to battling with their peers for pole position on the peak.
In the Boy’s 12/U division, Merrick Mochkatel started out strong in the early rounds, riding his momentum all the way to the final, only to get pipped in the end in a nail biter by Kai Nelson, of Maui. Kai battled through a very close final, with whistles of encouragement and coaching from the jetty’s edge by a solid squad of supporters.
Vahiti Inso
From the minute the first horn sounded, Rylan Beavers made his intentions very clear in the boys 14/U division. He topped a scrappy one to start, then rampaged his way to the finals with back-to-back totals north of 14 points and nearly snatching the …Lost Surfboards High Heat Total in the process. His low and powerful backhand fit the bowling lefts at Kewalos perfectly, and he started the final swinging and quickly tightened the screws on his competitors. Luke Tema was able to mount a late charge, and surfed amazingly in his own right, but in the end it wasn’t enough to match Beavers, and he emerged victorious. Paralleling her performance at the first GromSearch stop in Huntington Beach just two short weeks prior, Luana Silva looked to be the clear-cut favorite based on her early round showings. “Lulu” made her way to the final surfing smart heats and utilizing excellent
wave selection in the process. Goofy footers Pua Desoto and Vahiti Inzo’s searing rail-work on the bowling lefts was notable throughout the event, and they too found themselves into the final, which was rounded out by Malia Moana Lima, the Kauaian being the soul finalist not calling Oahu home. Silva started with a bang, but it was all Vahiti after that, and she surfed out of her skin to take the win, racking up
absolute tear of late, coming off a win at the GromSearch National Final in Waco, TX and backing it up with victory at the USA Surfing Championships at Lowers in late June. Swanson was poised and locked in looking for the win, dropping an early score for a backside blow-tail to the tune of a 7.17. But Crawford was hot on his heels, stomping a massive fullrote on a right and putting himself right back in it.
a 17.56 total and securing the … Lost High Heat Total award in the process.
The speed and explosiveness Shion has added to his game has been apparent, and his no-holds-barred approach saw him dropping massive numbers throughout the event and earning the Banzai Bowls Maneuver of the Event in the process. At the heat’s end, Shion’s full court press
The boys 16/U final saw the friendly rivalry of Rip Curl’s Luke Swanson and Shion Crawford going toe-to-toe for Kewalos supremacy. Shion has been on an 54
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16 Under Girls Finalists was too much for Luke to contend with, and Swanson had to settle for second place. Rounding out the final were Kai Martin who was a weekend free-surf standout and Oliver Ziets who quietly stormed through the event and was within striking distance until the final horn blew. After a long year of changes and adaptations due to the Covid-19 pandemic, there was a resounding joy and appreciation to be donning the jerseys and surfing heats again in Hawaii. The locals and outerisland residents rejoiced and reveled in the camaraderie and excitement of the weekend’s action.
12 Under Boys Finalists
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The Best Way to Surf More Hawai'i
GOLDEN RIDES By Bert Valdez
Duke Kahanamoku’s dream of surfing in the Olympics came to life with the inclusion of surfing in the Tokyo summer Olympics and with that 40 of the best surfers from around the world started to gear up themselves and their equipment. Freesurf gets straight to the heart of this subject and talks story with two of the best board makers on the planet, Timmy Patterson owner shaper @TPattersonsurfboards and Matt Biolos owner shaper @lostsurboards by Mayhem. Both of these men had equipment under the feet of Gold Medal athletes Italo Ferreira and Carissa Moore respectively.
so I'm familiar with the break. I also watched the surf cam consistently for about month. We knew it might be small, so I started building boards for small conditions. FSM: What preparations and words for Carissa? MB: I just kept pushing her to train in small conditions and practice on her equipment.
MATT BIOLOS
surfer, shaper, owner @lostsurfboards by Mayhem Surfing: 39 years Shaping: 34 years Home break: San Clemente, CA
FSM: Did you see this coming? MB. In a way yes. All the calls were made and we got to work. It was on!!! Carissa was focused and knew exactly what she wanted. Respectively the two, #1's came out on top Carissa Moore (USA) and Italo Ferreira (BRA).
FSM: Aloha Matt, congratulations. How does it feel to be hold medalist shaper? MB: It feels great! I can't really explain it but Carissa did all the work!
FSM: Now that the sport has hit the mainstream, what does this mean for surfing? MB: It's bitchin! It’s super positive for surfers and competitors. More surfboards, more surfers, more wave pools. Wave pools are a great training facility!
FSM: How long have you been surfing and shaping? I've been surfing since 82' and I've been shaping seriously since 87'
FSM: What's does this mean for lost and Mayhem. MB. Just another feather in our cap! Moving forward, building and shaping boards for surfers and competitors.
FSM: What do you think about surfing in the Olympics? MB. It's positive, I like it. I can't wait for the next Olympic games which (the surfing) will be in Tahiti 2024. That should really showcase surfing. FSM: How long have you been working with Carissa? MB: I started working with Carissa during her amateur career, I've been with her through all four of her world titles and now her gold medal in the Tokyo Olympics. FSM: How did you prepare going into the Olympics? MB: I've surfed there before at Chiba beach,
her training in the wave park and her first rounds of the games. It was built for small waves, a little wider and thicker in all the right places and a little more volume to help in small conditions. She looked great on it! The conditions changed dramatically for the final. A typhoon (swell) came in. Carissa took out her 5'10 EPS Step Driver. It's your everyday board. It had her new aloha print. She told me in the final there was so much water she felt like she was gonna drown.
Carissa is so focused she's a fierce competitive surfer. FSM: Let's talk about her boards. MB: She been training on our new Light Speed technology 2.0 She was riding a 5'8 epoxy sub driver for
Carissa Moore maximizing the Step Driver. Photo ISA/Ben Reed
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GOLDEN RIDES
clicked. Italo is like a kid in a candy factory when it comes to boards We are constantly communicating on equipment and feedback. I've been working with Italo for about 13years. FSM: How many boards did he take w him to the Olympics. TP: I think 10. The funny thing is I could make him 100 boards and he will still go the rack and pull one down and win! He surfs every heat like a final!
TIMMY PATTERSON
After 5 decades with a planer in hand, Timmy Patterson is still captivated with the art of making surfboards. No matter the skill level of the athlete or customer, Timmy just wants to make the best board out there. FSM: How long have you been surfing and shaping TP: I've been surfing for about 53yrs and I've been making boards for about 30yrs. I grew up surfing Pochi Reef since I was 5 years old. All there was to do growing up was surf, skate and bike. I grew up w some the some of the best innovators of the time.
FSM: How long have you been working with Italo? TP: Someone told me ‘You have to check out this happy go lucky kid,’ and that humble kid was Italo. When Italo came aboard it just
FSM: How do you feel about surfing in the Olympics? TP. I had my doubts and what not, but after seeing the event take place in natural conditions it was cool to watch. The playing field was pretty even with the conditions of the surf. The elements of surfing and mother nature where in full form. I enjoyed it. FSM: How did you prepare going into the Olympics. TP. Well we made a lot of boards and what Italo rides is amazing. He can ride anything and make it look good. He's been riding a board called the synthetic 84' model. The thing is, he's riding over 50 yrs of innovation. It's cool because Italo surfs the way I shapeno boundaries. It's been a lot of trial and error, not just w Italo but w other test pilots as well, Pat O'Connell, Christian Fletcher, Mike Parsons, Matt Archibald, the progression of surfing is here. People just want to ride what the pros ride.
Surfer, shaper, board inovator, world champion, gold medalist @tpattersonsurfboards.com Surfing: 53yrs Shaping: 30yrs Home break: Pochi Reef, San Clemente, CA. "Simpler the better "
FSM: Who where you biggest influences? TP: Buttons was a huge influence, he had it all, but I was surrounded by the Hobie brothers. Henry Ford, the Fletchers, Terry Martin and the Smith twins. The 80's were a huge change. Christian Fletcher brought about a different style and approach to surfing, a nonconventional way. All we wanted to do was skate on water and we became mad scientists, chopping and building new board concepts. I could make a board in 24 hours from start to finish and have feedback the same day. I made Christian a board called the 94' flying saucer. The thing was awesome!
the Olympics, as the games got closer, we did our research, read all the rules, submitted our paperwork for review and it passed.
FSM: Did you see this coming? TP: Yeah, I could see it with Italo. He's such an amazing person in and out of the water. The humble surfer and happy go lucky. He trains hard. He puts the time in. He's fearless and he surfs heats like it's his last. He's just enjoying life and where he's at in his career. He can manifest his win from start to finish. Italo rode the first wave in the Olympics and went on to win gold. World No.1 is on top for a reason.
FSM: Let's talk about the boards he used in the final and the Billabong logo? TP: The boards he used where his signature model the Stoke-ed. He broke his board on the very first wave of the finals, came down with the close out and snapped his board in half. So he went to the black back up board, which was co-produced, @ tpattersonsurfboards_brazil, operated by the two brothers, Tiko and Teco. Big up to those guys! The TPatterson logo and the Billabong logo was a co - branding thing we had been working on for Italo’s signature model, the Stoke- Ed. It started back in 2019, before
FSM: What does this mean for the Timmy Patterson team? TP: I just keep doing my thing, keep shaping, re-innovating. Keep building boards for surfers and competitors. I just want say thank you to the entire Timmy Patterson team, big ups to Scott Metzger (GM) always taking care of things! Thank you Italo on the way to gold Photo ISA / Pablo Jiminez
I N DUSTRY NOTES PhotoCON Hawai’i is back for its fifth year
The O'Neill Kids Are Alright! What happens when Dad (Cory Lopez) surprises you with a FaceTime call every grom dreams about - an unexpected surf trip to Mexico? The stoke factor hits climax! Alana Lopez and little brother, Luke 'The Dude' Lopez, packed up and flew south to be greeted by warm water and world-class right points. Watch the latest episode of 'The O'Neill Kids Are Alright!' youtube.com/TeamONeill
PhotoCON Hawai’i is offering virtual and on-location workshops led by world-class leaders in the industry. The on-location venue will take place at Kualoa Ranch . Hands-on access to new technology from sponsors like Aquatech, BHPHOTO, Canon, FujiFilm, Lexar, Light&Motion, PhaseOne, Paradise Helicopters, Sight & Sound Productions, Skydio, and Sony will be provided. “We want to find and help educate photographers of all ages and skill levels to improve their photographic skills and achieve their visual aspirations by giving them access to the best in the industry!”, said Ric Noyle, founder and producer of PhotoCON Hawai’i. In addition, PhotoCON Hawai’i is holding an annual photo contest that is open to professionals, amateurs, students, visitors and all residents. This year’s contest theme is “The Essence of Jurassic Hawai’i. The contest will be open for entries at photoconhawaii. com on September 15th, and all entries must be received by September 22nd, 2021. Winners will receive equipment, gift cards and other great prizes from PhotoCON Hawai’i 2021 sponsors.
Celebrating 50 Years of Aloha In 1971, Stephen and Jimmy Tsukayama opened a small surf shop in Kailua on Oahu’s Windward coast - and Hawaiian Island Creations was born. Fifty years and thousands of surfboards, later HIC has built a reputation as an icon of Hawaiian surfing recognized by surfers across the globe. HIC is kicking off its 50th Anniversary with this commemorative T-shirt, available in short sleeves, long sleeves and tank tops, in stores and online at www.HICsurf.com. Stay tuned as more 50th Anniversary products, collaborations and specials will be announced throughout the rest of the year.
Jeremy Flores Photo Mike Latronic
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Jeremy Flores has retired from full time competition. Jeremy, for certain, had a bright and brilliant career as a full time competitor, a master of style and inspired player who was not afraid to show all of his true colors. Flores plans to spend more time with his family and while he won’t be putting the competition jersey on as much anymore we can be certain he will remain a hard charging, charismatic leader of our sport for years to come! Mahalo for your many years of dedication and beautiful competitive performances. You embody the amazing individualism of our sport and from Hawaii and the rest of the surfing world we salute you! Aloha
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Stuff We Like SALTY CREW THRILL SEEKERS AND RISK TAKERS / THE MOVIE The unknown is starting to diminish, but it still exists. Some might say that there aren't any surfing spots left in the world that are untouched. These unknown frontiers intrigue the Salty Crew team. Salty Crew is all about rebuilding the connection of oneself to our first true mother - the ocean. A place of refuge, the sea has always offered an escape from the mundane and stressful land-based responsibilities. The Salty Crew team redefines what it means to be a risk taker and thrill seeker. Passing through Alaska, British Columbia, Mainland Mexico, Western Australia, New Zealand, and back home to Southern California, the team searches for their own frontier. Follow the crew through the unknown as they fish, surf, and un-tap adventure in the all new Thrill Seekers and Risk Takers the movie. Discover the unknown, find refuge in the sea.
805 BEER 805 BEER X CONNER COFFIN Pair a light, refreshing ale originally developed for the laid back California style with Coffin, the timeless, smooth, style machine and you get a killer collaboration. Our friends at 805 Beer created an epic collaboration with the athlete, who has an average heat score of 10.94. Hailing from Santa Barbara, Conner grew up watching Dane Reynolds and Tom Curren destroy Rincon and it shows in his refined approach. 805 Beer; pioneers of properly chilled drinks since 2012.
Cholos Full Cycle Takeout The Full Cycle Takeout (@ fullcycletakeout) program is now live at their pilot location in Hale’iwa!! This is a reusable container program — basically, food-to-go without all the rubbish! Full Cycle Takeout is a collaborative program, housed under @zerowaste_oahu and made possible in partnership with @noaadebris ! Full Cycle Takeout offers a simple, affordable, and Dept. of Health approved and sanitary solution to minimize takeout waste.
VANS VANS X METALLICA COLLECTION Refuse to pause your rock and roll summer playlist and cruise into fall with the all new Vans X Metallica collection. This collection displays the newly created Metallica logo for a heavy metal presentation of vans classic silhouettes. In collaboration with Metallica artist ‘Pushhead’ Van’s re-creates two classic pairs of sneakers in the rocker's iconic branding. This is the third collaboration within Van’s and Metallica’s partnership. Metallica celebrates the 30th anniversary of the ‘Black Album’ through this collaboration.
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L O O K L O O K
July 23, 2001, just one day before surfing's debut in the Olympic games, family and friends of the late Derek Ho gathered in the hundreds to pay their respects, and lay his ashes to rest, in the lineup of his beloved Pipeline. It was a fitting send-off for one of the most widely respected and admired surfers of his generation. As the first Hawaiian World Champion in modern surfing, Derek Ho’s breakthrough accomplishment paved the way for subsequent world champions - including Sunny Garcia, Andy Irons, John John Florence, and Carissa Moore. His unwavering passion for surfing extended far beyond the competitive arena and his dedication to seeking out, and sharing the stoke, is an inspiration for us all. Photo: Brian Bielmann