Editorial
Editor / Publisher
Mike Latronic
Photo Director
Brian Bielmann
Art Director
John Weaver
Associate Editor
Rebecca Parsons
Editorial Assistant Kaea Latronic
Business Administration
Cora Sanchez (808) 638-7395
West Coast Distribution & Sales
Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128
Wholesale Inquiries & Hawai‘i Distribution (808) 638-7395
Staff Shooters
Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver
Contributing Writers
Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn
Contributing Photographers
Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke
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IS HONORED TO SUPPORT THE RETURN OF THE
Highly acclaimed American author John Steinbeck queried, “What good is the warmth of summer, without the cold of winter to give it sweetness?”
For many, winter storms are cold, challenging events to be endured. Whether they are bracing for snow shoveling, higher electric bills, windy weather, frosty windshields, wet or icy roads, the Winter season can represent biting cold, extra work and real natural danger. For surfers, Winter brings opportunity. Increased storm activity means more swells and with more swells comes more options to find solid, powerful and sometimes treacherous surf.
In particular Aleutian storms from the North polar region direct huge amounts of energy in the North Pacific Ocean and as these storms race across the map that energy travels thousands of miles to impact the coasts of the Hawaiian Island chain and California. For anybody with a good quiver of winter boards at the ready, it's party time.
We know for certain that USA’s Kirra Pinkerton has a party smile on after her Gold Medal victory this past September at Surf City USA in the ISA World Games at Huntington Beach. Freesurf is happy to deliver the 411 on this explosive wahine athlete on the rise. Freesurf also profiles junior performer Kai Martin. Martin possesses one of the winningest competition records ever seen and in fact has made it to the finals of all seven amateur events he has participated in thus far in 2022.
There was also a major celebration of life for another junior champion. At the mere age of 24, former World Junior Champion and surf and skate prodigy, Kalani David passed away after suffering a seizure while surfing in Costa Rica earlier this year. Hundreds if not nearly a thousand friends and family gathered at Pipeline to honor the talented kind hearted young man with a massive paddle out. Gone way too soon, Kalani David was a rare talent indeed.
As usual there’s a beautiful dose of surfing imagery and this month we highlight Les Tin, Noa Napoleon, Merril Kalopodes - three “Local Lensmen,” for their stellar work behind the lens. There’s also plenty of news including the HIC, WSL, showdown at Sunset Beach, industry notes, environmental issues and even a few good tips on holiday shopping. "Dis Buggah is tick". Enjoy.
Gabriela Bryan and Barron Mamiya Win Sunset Pro presented by HIC
Bryan opened up the Final affair featuring stacked opponents including Challenger Series competitors Brianna Cope (HAW) and Nora Liotta (HAW), and event standout Eweleiula Wong (HAW). The 2022 Championship Tour (CT) rookie's 6.00 (out of a possible 10) went without a backup until the 11-minute mark when she and Wong had a 7.25 exchange, noting Wong's first scoring ride of substance, after Liotta's 6.50 edged her to the lead. (Full interview in video newsfeed)
But, Bryan's two-score combination had Liotta and her competitors in need of a brilliant answer as time expired, earning the former Pro Junior event winner's first Sunset QS win.
"It's so good to have a QS win under my belt," said Bryan. "My first heat gave me so much confidence even though I
haven't surfed Vals (Reef) a lot, but you never know. The CT could be like that one day so the more heats, the more practice, the more better I'll be."
A nail-biting men's Final provided a closing spectacle to the event with brilliant exchanges from eventual winner Mamiya, Billy Kemper (HAW), Shion Crawford (HAW), and Kai Paula (HAW). Mamiya's opening, excellent 8.00 went without a backup of substance until
under the 10-minute to steal the lead from three-time Sunset victor Kemper with a 7.35. Paula, placed in a combination situation needing two new scores, and Crawford were left behind with mid-range scores as time was against them. (Full interview in newsfeed)
Mamiya held firm and claimed a second win in 2022 in his backyard of Sunset Beach to keep his momentum alive heading into the 2023 CT season.
"I'm super stoked to surf Sunset again in a contest and to get another win," said Mamiya. "It's been a super good event. The waves were small the first couple days, but the last day was super fun so I'm stoked to get some good waves."
Eventual winner, 22-year-old Mamiya, entered this event as the man to beat, winning the CT Hurley Pro Sunset earlier
Gabriela Bryan (HAW) and Barron Mamiya (HAW) emerged victorious at the World Surf League (WSL) Sunset Pro presented by HIC, a regional Qualifying Series (QS) 1000 event, over their respective, top-tier fields with three-to-four foot swell pulsing into Sunset Point. The 2022 Championship Tour (CT) standouts brought that confidence to the QS and showcased their dominant form throughout the event with phenomenal surfing. Valuable, runner-up points belonged to Nora Liotta (HAW) and Billy Kemper (HAW) as they look to secure their places into the 2023 Challenger Series (CS).3 WAIKIKI LOCATIONS!
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this year, and didn’t lose that title on the way to a secondconsecutive Sunset Beach Final. Surfing in his backyard, Mamiya was right at home and earned wins in both his Round of 32 and Quarterfinal heats before advancing behind Crawford into the Final and taking a massive win ahead of the 2023 CT season.
A valuable runner-up for Liotta pushes her up the rankings after battling her way to the Final. Liotta continues to show she’s one of Hawai'i’s rising threats and notched an impressive Semifinal victory after advancing into Finals Day. The 18-year-old chose to forego the Challenger Series event in Brazil and focus on regional success, and capitalized on the moment as she now prepares for the Challenger Series conclusion at Hale’iwa.
Eventual runner-up Kemper's track record at Sunset is one the venue’s best with three wins headed into this event and despite smaller conditions, thrived under pressure to secure back-to-back, event Finals appearances. Kemper's persistence on Finals Day was relentless, advancing in each of his Round of 32, Quarterfinal, and Semifinal battles to show his fighting spirit is still one of the fiercest among his competitors.
"If there was one person I'd accept losing to it'd be Barron (Mamiya), he's been my training partner the last couple years under Kahea Hart," said Kemper. "After Barron won this event at the CT, he took a big step up in his surfing and really matured in all aspects. Now, there's one event on my mind and that's Jaws. I've put my entire life, everything into it and I get emotional just thinking about it."
Valuable Finishes For Finalists, Challenger Series Qualification Race Narrows
Cope entered this event, putting the Challenger Series (CS) on hold, to garner valuable points toward her regional QS ranking and made it worth her while with a Finals appearance. Wong pulled one of the event’s most notable upsets in her Quarterfinal debut, alongside Lucy Jarrard (ASM), by eliminating Moana Jones Wong (HAW), former Hawai'i/Tahiti Nui No. 1, and continued that form through the Semifinals behind an inform Liotta.
Eventual third-place finisher Crawford debuted in phenomenal fashion and kept that momentum going all the way to the
KIRRA PINKERTON IS
GOING FOR GOLD
By Rebecca ParsonsKirra Pinkerton is the type of person who knows what she wants and goes after it. Pinkerton grew up in San Clemente, California and started surfing with her dad when she was just two years old. They travelled back and forth between California and Hawai'i, surfing and competing in local kid’s contests. By the time she was nine, Pinkerton knew she wanted to be a professional surfer.
When Pinkerton was sixteen, she competed in the WSL’s Junior Championships. She went into the event with low expectations, but ultimately ended up winning. The win was eye-opening for the young surfer and was the validation she needed to know she had what it took to compete at the professional level.
“I remember at the end of the event I cried to my dad, ‘I just want to keep doing this,’” says Pinkerton. “It was the best feeling that I had ever felt.”
In 2019, Pinkerton was in top form, but when COVID-19 hit, competitions were put on hold and she started losing her competitive drive. When contests started back up, Pinkerton wasn’t planning on competing, but already having the points, she decided to keep going.
“I used to be super competitive and would love to go and make a bunch of heats and win everything,” says Pinkerton. “Lately, I’ve just really loved travelling and doing competitions. I’ve made good friends with people on tour and it’s like a big family—we all just push each other to get better at surfing.”
Kirra Pinkerton. Photo @kanduiresortFor the past six months, Pinkerton has been putting in a lot of time and work. Instead of focusing on what others do to prepare for competitions, she’s been focused on what she needs to do in order to be her best self in heats as well as in her free surfing.
When she’s home in San Clemente, Pinkerton is a regular at Lowers. She surfs the iconic wave nearly every morning and drives north three times a week to work with her trainer and surf in Huntington Beach. She does yoga every day to keep her body loose and tries to cook regularly although admittedly, she isn’t the best.
At the 2022 ISAs in Huntington Beach, California, her rigorous training paid off. Pinkerton wasn’t supposed to be in the contest, but she got a last minute call and she answered it. The U.S. team included a lot of surfers from San Clemente and according to Pinkerton, the level of support and camaraderie was exceptional. In the final, Pinkerton faced off against Sally Fitzgibbons, ultimately coming away victorious. Not only didn’t Pinkerton win gold, but she helped team USA land the gold and earned an extra spot for the U.S. in the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris.
“It felt like a miracle,” says Pinkerton. “It somehow worked out to be exactly the amount of points we needed to get the win and that made it that much better.”
Kirra Pinkerton Photo Asu CampPinkerton has some serious goals she hopes to add to her already impressive resume. She plans on qualifying for the Championship Tour in the next year or two. Once she qualifies, she wants to win a world title and become the first person to win every event on tour. She knows it’s a lofty goal, but she’s willing to put in the work required to achieve it. Additionally, Pinkerton hopes to qualify for the U.S. Olympic team and use that extra spot she helped earn.
On top of contest goals, Pinkerton would like to get into big wave surfing. She’s already ridden some pretty sizable waves at Waimea and in Indonesia, but she’s got her sights set on Jaws, Teahupo’o, Cloudbreak, and Mavericks if she can handle the cold water.
“I’ve always had a passion for surfing big waves,” says Pinkerton. “When I was a little kid, I would throw myself into closeouts and had no fear paddling into waves.”
Always an overachiever, Pinkerton has been homeschooled since sixth grade and graduated high school by the time she was 16. She’s toyed with the idea of college but has been bouncing between ideas for what she wants to study. Initially, she considered architecture or culinary school, but has decided she’s more interested in holistic and natural healing. Perhaps she’ll attend a university or maybe she’ll study it on the road between contests. But right now, the nineteen-year-old is focused on surfing and for now, that is enough.
LOCAL LENSMEN
A look at three local shooters and and their images.
By Alexandra KahnMERRIL KALOPODES
Many of us might agree with Merril Kalopodes when he refers to the ocean as his church and source of serenity. “I first got into shooting because I wanted to photograph sunsets. I had a Pentax 35mm film camera and used to go all over the island chasing sunrises and sunsets. The water photography began in 2018 when I saw a pod of dolphins swimming off of Waikiki and borrowed my cousin's GoPro 5, paddled outside of Queens on a long board, and tried to photograph them. Then I went and tried my hand at Sandy's and the rest is history.”
Although a town resident, you’ll find Merril shooting video on his Go Pro Hero 11 on big days at Pipeline, Waimea, and spots in Maui. “I love that I get to take the moment home and be able to relive the stoke over and over again.”
NOA NAPOLEON
Noa Napoleon started photographing surfing on the North Shore in 2018. Now retired, surf photography is his main hobby, and while his favorite is spot Sunset, he will go wherever the swell is. “When I first started as a surf instructor in Waikiki there were just a few instructors using the waterproof Kodak Pocket Instamatic cameras. When digital cameras came out that's when all the concessions invested in their own state of the art photography equipment and I fell in love with surf photography.”
“For me, shooting surfing is the next best thing to actually being out there. I love capturing the variety of moods and colors of the ocean and being a part of the overall
are feeling when they have a good run!”
Predominantly a land based photographer, Noa uses both the Nikon D850 and D7200 DX cameras with the Nikon 200-500mm, the Tamron 150-600mm, and a 1.4 teleconverter. energy that surfersF e l i z N a v i d a d , F e l i z Y P r ó s p e r o A ñ o N u e v o
LES TIN
The ocean can provide so many things to so many people; for Les Tin, the ocean and photographing surfing provided a tool to combat his depression after losing his mother to cancer in 2017. “My wife and I knew I wasn't the same and she shared a video with me called Shorebreak by Clark Little. It was such a cool video/biography of himself and I realized that I missed the ocean. Armed with a GoPro 4, I just went to the beach with my then little sons and we just had a blast. The water grew on all of us and my interest in shooting started to grow. And as they say, 'the rest is history.' "
Working as the customer service executive at Local Motion, surf photography is not an intended career path or source of income for Les, it’s therapy: “I personally value the friendship/community I can create with sharing my photos. There’s enough aloha for all of us to pursue our goals.”
Les shoots mostly from the water on the South Shore with his Salted Line Water Housing using his Sony A6500 & Sony A7iii with Sony 50mm / 85mm / 18-105mm or GoPro 8 & 9 Black. “A lot of the inspiration and ideas I get are actually from talking to other photographers. While waiting for waves we’re just talking story and sharing the aloha, and from that I am able to get more inspiration or ideas. I just love and respect the surfing and surf photography community. It saved my life!”
THE LIFE AND LEGACY OF KALANI
DAVID: 1997-2022
By Rebecca ParsonsKalani David was undisputedly one of the best surfers and skaters of all time. Ask anyone who has seen him do either and they’ll surely agree. Born in Costa Rica, bred in Hawai'i, Kalani died after suffering a seizure while surfing in Costa Rica. He was 24.
Kalani first began turning heads when he was just six years old due to his raw talent and love for the ocean. O’ahu-based pro surfer Jason “Mags” Magallanes first met Kalani while surfing Chuns Reef nearly two decades ago. The grom was being pushed into waves by a friend and Jason recalls being impressed by his style.
Photo Brent Bielmann“He had this knowledge of waves and was so in touch with the ocean,” says Jason. “I’d never seen a six-year-old with that kind of style, so I paddled over and told him he was ripping. Ever since that day, we just connected.”
Kalani, along with his father, little brother, and step mom, were seen at nearly every amateur surfing event in Hawai'i. David proceeded to dominate the junior scene in both surfing and skateboarding. In 2012, he won gold at the ISA World Junior Surfing Championships in Panama, helping Team Hawai'i bring home the team gold medal. Kalani, it seemed, was destined for greatness.
“It’s crazy to think how talented he was,” says Josh Moniz, Kalani’s friend and regular competitor. “He was an insane surfer and was always super difficult to beat. He was filled with a lot of raw talent and had that ‘go-for-it’ attitude. You could see his skating influenced his surfing a lot, the way he approached the waves. He was for sure the best surfer/skater combo ever.”
“I first became aware of Kalani’s talent when he was about 10,” says lifetime professional surfing judge Jack Shipley. “He was clearly gifted with a bright future. He progressed rapidly, even quicker than predicted. Then, one day, I saw him skate. It was stunning.”
Photo Brent Peter King Photo Aukai Ng Photo Ryan "Chachi" CraigWhile some of the best surfers on the planet, top judges, and industry experts can tell you of Kalani’s amazing abilities, it was in 2016 that David suffered a major medical setback. On a trip to California, Kalani had a major seizure at a skatepark in Oceanside that stopped his heart. After undergoing testing, Kalani learned that he had a rare condition called WolffParkinson White Syndrome (WPW). Not long afterward, he had another mass seizure that landed him in the hospital for three weeks.
According to the Mayo Clinic, WPW is a rare condition in which “an extra signaling pathway between the heart's upper and lower chambers causes a fast heartbeat (tachycardia). WPW syndrome is a heart condition present at birth (congenital heart defect).”
Kalani lived part-time with his lifelong friends, the Parker family as well as a period of time at the Volcom house in Hawai'i. Kalani was childhood friends with top North Shore surfer Rory Parker. Rory’s family was amazingly supportive. After consulting with doctors it was decided Kalani needed to undergo heart surgery to remove the extra muscle that had grown on his heart. The hope was that the surgery would stop the seizures and allow him to return to the life of surfing and skating that he loved.
In January of 2017, at just 19 years old, Kalani underwent heart surgery. The surgery was successful and things were looking good for the young surfer. However, in May of that same year, Kalani suffered another massive seizure that resulted in a weeklong stay at Castle Hospital.
Once Kalani was released from the hospital, additional steps were taken to support Kalani’s condition. Different medications were employed and tested with different doses and prescriptions until he found something that seemed to work well for him. He would need to take medication daily for the rest of his life.
Photo Ryan "Chachi" CraigAlthough Kalani regularly struggled with seizures and his health, he never gave up on his dreams of surfing and skating. He maintained a positive attitude, training and competing when he could, hoping that he’d eventually get his health under control and have a shot at qualifying for the WSL World Championship Tour. At this time Kalani moved to Maui to spend time with his childhood friend and girlfriend Natalie Kealiinohomoku, her mom Robin and their family. David impacted the Maui surf scene with solid surfing at spots like Ho’okipa and Honolua Bay on the regular.
In 2022, on O’ahu, Kalani had a seizure while driving and lost his license. A month later he had a seizure in the water while fishing. Luckily he was with a friend who was an ex-marine that knew exactly what to do. For several months, Kalani was unable to surf or drive and he diligently listened to his doctor and took his medication. In June his MRI looked good and although his doctor could not give him the green light he hoped for he was personally prepared to take his chances and get back in the water to pursue the life he loved. Though Kalani would always surf with a companion in case something happened, he knew it was a huge risk.
Kalani began surfing again regularly with his sights set on qualifying professionally in the WSL and possibly earning a spot to compete on Costa Rica’s Olympic team since he was born in Costa Rica. Despite the medical issues, at this point, David was in good, strong physical form, surfing at a very high level.
Photo Brent Bielmann“In his free surfing sessions David possessed all the fire and skill that he exuded as an amateur world champ,” says longtime surf coach turned Freesurf Magazine publisher Mike Latronic. “The difference was that in his early 20s Kalani was now growing into his ‘man strength.’ There’s little doubt David was going to be a standout on any given day moving into the future and he would indeed be the cause of many upsets at the highest levels of surf competitions.”
Kalani was focused on taking on his competitive challenges with verve but more so living as the best version of himself. In September, he planned a trip to Costa Rica to get his Costa Rican passport squared away for the bid for the Olympics and visit his sister Rachel. On that trip, Kalani suffered another seizure while in the water. This one ultimately claimed his life after a long, hard battle with WPW.
“He was in a really good place right before he passed,” says Jason. “He was surfing and skating and living every day to the fullest. No one can explain losing someone like that.”
For someone who had so much talent, Kalani never truly had the opportunity to fully display it. His health kept him in and out of training and competition and while he once was one of the most decorated and well sponsored teens in surfing, his endorsements overall waned as a result of his medical profile
and other personal issues. One company in particular, Dark Seas, did look past his medical issues and supported Kalani regardless.
“It was incredible to get to know him over the past five or so years,” says Dark Seas owner Chris Borders. “The first time we really got to hang out he came to the house and he was super endearing to the entire family instantly. He lived life to the fullest. What an amazing heart he had.”
Even though he never even had the chance to compete on the Championship Tour and vie for a WSL a world title, he will go down as one of the best surfers of all time.
“Competition wise, Kalani didn’t even scratch the surface of what he could have done,” says Josh. “At a junior amateur level, he did everything he could possibly do and it seemed like he was going to be an international champion in surfing and skating.”
Although Kalani was an incredible surfer and skater, he will be remembered for so much more than his athletic prowess. He was a loving brother and friend. An excellent dog dad to his pups. And he had one of the biggest hearts ever.
“Kalani just had a huge heart,” says Josh. “He was very giving, was always trying to have fun, and was never afraid to tell his friends that he loved them. He was very outspoken and didn’t shy away from hard conversations. He was a really good friend and we’re going to miss him a lot.”
“He lived every day to the fullest, whether it was fishing, surfing, skating, or being around his friends that truly loved him and cared for him,” says Jason. “He had the biggest heart and was so caring and loving and would literally give you the t-shirt off his back even if he had nothing. That’s just the kind of person I’ll always remember him as—the surfing and skating is just icing on the cake.”
His sister Rachel also an avid surfer, notes, “The day before he passed I woke up at 8:00 am and asked him if he wanted to work out. He told me he already did and was up since 4:30 am! I was surprised and then he told me, ‘You know Rachel we have to work hard for what we want in life. We have to be the best version of ourselves.’”
It was with tears that his hanai mom, Robin Kealiinohomoku profoundly added, “In his last years Kalani found God and that was comforting to us all. He developed an important relationship with God and while Kalani’s next step was to be baptized, it's a big coincidence how God took him while he was in the ocean in Costa Rica, the place he was born, in the living water… And now he is home.”
APERTURE
Yago Dora in deep with a Teahupo'o' light show. Photo Brent BielmannWhen it comes to action photography, Barron Mamiya is one of the best subjects in the business. Studio: Rocky Point.
Photo Brian Bielmann"This is my favorite shot I've taken at Nazaré. It just looks and feels like a gift from God with the perfect offshores blowing on it. All the surfers came in and I was packing up when the clouds parted and the sun broke thru and the last 20 minutes it pumped non stop."
BielmannYou can always count on Billy Kemper to stand out at big Sunset. He has a deep connection with the place. It seems like the waves turn on when he paddles out.
Photo Tony Heff Mason Ho executes a perfect late drop at Pipeline. Photo Brent Bielmann Tatianna Weston-Webb Photo Brent Bielmann Zeke Lau, 20 minutes till sunset and one last golden light cut back. Photo Brian Bielmann Eli Hanneman Our cover boy from Maui pulling the perfectly executed air off in the first light of a beautiful North Shore morning. Sequence Brian BielmannNothing more majestic than Waimea shore break when the backdrop is all black and the wave is all light by the first rays of the morning sun.
Photo Brian BielmannKalani Chapman through the years, has always been a colorful action figure in the world's heaviest waves. Making his exit here, Chapman employs a manly double grab for extra showmanship.
Photos Brian BielmannThe next generation of surfers are charging harder than ever in waves large and small and for one, longtime standout, 17-year-old Kai Martin, or “Kaiboy,” by his family and friends, was raised in Honolulu and this year sits upon several US National medals and a Junior World Title. Kaiboy has reigned in the upper level of the Hawai'i amateur scene with a strong penchant for solid, rapidfire surfing, big sprays, and a growing air game: it’s this reputation that amplifies his profile and is earning him top performances. South Shore or North Shore, Hawai'i or California wherever he goes, Kai always performs. If you see Kaiboy out in the water for a contest or better yet a a freesurf, you can be certain of a good show from this young buck. We caught up with Kaiboy and asked him about his start to surfing, his challenges and victories in competitive surfing, and the tight relationships he has built over the years.
Q: What was your first memory of surfing?
My earliest memory of surfing was probably when I was like two at the Hale’iwa Menehune contest, and swimming with my dad or pushing me into waves with my uncle and them. I loved it. I loved being in the ocean. I grew up around it so I just always felt comfortable out there.
Q: Who were your biggest surf influences growing up?
Super early on, my dad was my biggest influence. He is a surfer so he was the one that got me into surfing. The Moniz brothers are in there too. I'm a local boy and they're local boys too, so seeing that they're able to do it and make it all the way professionally inspired me. Being around the Billabong house when I was younger, I was able to build relationships with them and I'm pretty good friends with them now. Seth will take me surfing and I train with Josh too. We work out at Tactical Strength (gym). So just being around them and watching them surf was good. So they're definitely a big influence on me.
Q: In the early stages of your surfing, what was the most groundbreaking spot that you've been able to find a rhythm?
I think in the very early stages, I started at Queens and Baby Queens in Waikiki. That's where I pretty much grew up. I gradually moved up to Kewalos. Kewalos is just such a good training ground and it’s where I got serious into surfing and competition. The wave just offers everything, You can work on turns. You can do two turns into an air, you can pretty much just do whatever you want. It gives so many options and I think that's why so many kids go there to like practice and work on their surfing because there's always waves and it gives you so many opportunities.
One of my favorite waves just in general is Ala Moana Bowls. I've always liked it, especially being a goofy footer. The wave is just so perfect. You can just draw your own lines, go fast and be creative. When Bowls is big, the good ones are obvious. I think everyone knows just taking off on the wave and just trying to get rid of all your speed and kind of going into the flats and then coming back into the barrel and standing right in there. It's probably the best way to describe a good wave out there.
My first experiences surfing pretty solid waves on the North Shore was when I was 10 years old. Billabong would hold these grom camps and basically everyone from around the world with Billabong would come to the house and we'd just surf everywhere on the North Shore. And I remember surfing Sunset and my first session out at Pipe was definitely a memorable experience, that feeling of surfing a real wave, I guess.
When I was 10, I remember being out on a super solid day at Pipe and it's definitely intimidating. I wasn't at the peak, I was kind of sitting on the shoulder and just watching all the guys go. But it's definitely a humbling experience. You can feel the energy when you're out there. I finally got myself over the edge and pulling
Q: Anywhere else in Town that you really love?
Q: Let’s move from Town to the North Shore. Can you remember your first experience surfing the North Shore?
into a solid one. I was probably like 13 or 14, I remember taking off, i was finally able to sneak one under everybody and in the barrel it was just so blue and I just remember seeing the best vision I ever seen in my whole life. Only a surfer knows what it feels like to be in a barrel. And it was just definitely a memorable moment. Once I actually went and was pushing myself, I just slowly started to become more and more comfortable.
whole contest, I was just in rhythm and just felt I was just making good decisions and good priority decisions. In the final, I needed like a nine with only a few minutes left. I had first priority and I kind of just trusted my gut and just went on this wave and surfed it to my full potential. Ended up getting the score and won the event. That was probably the biggest win of my life so far. Thankfully, I had (coach) Keanu Asing in my corner to help me through the whole event. He has such a good relationship with Lower Trestles and helped calm my nerves. He was able to help me so much and I definitely couldn't have done it without him.
Rocky Point is definitely one of the most high performance waves in the world. I think when the North Shore is on the smaller side, it's a go-to for pretty much everybody. So it's, a lot of times very packed, but as far as the wave goes, it's super high performance and I love it out there. If you can get a good one, then you can really open up your surfing. When I was growing up, I kind of only stuck to the left. For some reason when I saw the rights it just kind of scared me, I guess. But now I go both ways.
I think Sunset is definitely one of the hardest waves to learn. I feel like I'm lucky enough to have a good relationship with (Coach) Rainos Hayes. He has a special relationship out there with that wave and is one of the best out there as far as having knowledge. I think if it wasn't for him, I'd be more lost than I already am. My first time ever surfing Sunset, I think I was just focusing on surviving. I remember riding a big board for the first time and I wasn't used to that and I wasn't used to so much water moving. I think now I definitely feel more comfortable than I used to be for sure. I mean, it's the hardest wave, but I feel like when you put one together out at Sunset it is really rewarding.
I had a pretty good run this year. I was able to get fourth at the WSL QS event at Bowls, and then literally the day after that contest ended, I flew over to California to Lowers for the US Championships. It was almost like there wasn't as much pressure just because everything was happening so fast and I didn't really have much practice time. I feel that during the
Yeah, I think going back to the Bowls contest, I definitely had a lot of heats with some big names like Kai Lenny, Finn McGill, Zeke Lau. I try not to let that get in my head, I just kind of had to put my head down and knew I had to surf my best. I remember the semifinal heat with Finn, Eli, and Diesel and it was just a tough heat, it was really close. Needing a score, I caught one wave where I had priority and the wave was just a perfect middle bowls wave. The whole wave just lined up and allowed me like five, six turns and I just kind of linked it and that was definitely a good momentum for me. To be able to get through those heats and make the final and that was just a big goal for me. It felt really good.
Q: What are other breaks on the North Shore that you really put your time in?
Q: Any other waves other than Pipeline that were a big challenge for you?
Q: You compete a lot. What are some accomplishments in your competitive career that you’re proud of?
Q: And do you feel there are any hurdles or challenges you overcame while competing?
go with the flow go with the flow
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I've been to Waco and Kelly's Pool and I've had great times at both and both of them are very different. I think the air section at Waco is super fun and it's great practice to learn airs. Just getting the repetition and getting to do the same thing over and over is huge.
Then when I went to Kelly’s, it was super cold. I was wearing a hood and booties and I wasn't used to it, especially coming from Hawai'i. It is a hard wave, it took a good amount of tries to figure it out. It's just so fast, you can get left behind really fast, so you gotta be careful. Eventually I got the groove of it, but it definitely took a good amount of reading the wave and messing up and all that. But when you get it, it's fun, I mean you can sit in a barrel for 20 seconds.
Q: Do you have any magic boards?
Right now I'm riding for Slater Designs and FireWire surfboards. And I love their boards. They've been supporting me so much the past few years. I've been riding a lot of FRKs and Houdini's from Tokoro and Dan Mann. And when it comes to the wintertime, I'm pretty much on Slater design Tokoros. They've been working great. I love their boards. I think Uncle Wade has so much experience shaping boards, especially for the North Shore. I think a lot of people go to him just because he's been doing it for so long and he knows what works and what doesn't. From my experience, I've had nothing but good boards from him.
Q: So you’re riding with Billabong, what is your relationship like with them?
Growing up Billabong was always one of my favorite
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companies. I think I already had Billabong boardshorts and all of that. I've been on the Billabong surf team for seven, almost eight years already, so I definitely have a good relationship with them. Rainos Hayes was a big part of that as far as recruiting me. I remember talking with Isaiah Moniz one day and according to him, [Isaiah] was the one that put in a good word for me to Rainos.
Overall, I think the Billabong Bloodlines camps were definitely a big part of learning about the North Shore. Just staying up there at the house for ten days you learn so much about the breaks and having Rainos up there, him giving us all his knowledge is so helpful, especially when you're a grom learning.
Q: What are your future goals?
The end goal for me is to be on the WSL Championship Tour, but for right now it's to get on the Challenger series. And I'm in a good position to do that. I'm in fourth right now on the Qualifying Series to eventually get on the Challenger.
Q: Any people you would like to thank?
My
parents, my mom and my dad, my grandparents, Rainos and Keanu. All my sponsors, Billabong, Slater Designs, FCS, Vertra, Mokulele Airlines, and Sticky Bumps, they've all just supported me so much. Photo Sean ReillySoleil Errico and Harrison Roach Claim 2022 Longboard World Titles at Cuervo Classic Malibu Longboard Championship
Malibu’s Soleil Errico Claims Second World Title at Home
Today, Errico got to celebrate her second World Title alongside family and friends at the wave that helped shape her as a surfer. She got off to a quick start in her Finals matchup against an in-form Sophia Culhane (HAW), dropping a 6.83 (out of possible 10) in the opening minutes. A solid set offered a huge opportunity for both competitors with Culhane earning a 5.67 and Errico an excellent 8.67. A brilliant exchange between the two world-class competitors then saw Errico’s footwork and transitions lead to an 8.10 as Culhane’s 7.33 kept her out of a combination situation, but Errico's finishing 8.37 secured her win and the World Title.
“I’ve been visualizing this for the last three months,” said Errico. “Winning on my home turf couldn’t be any better and I’m just so happy that all the dedication and sacrifice I’ve put into this paid off. I’m so thankful for the friends and family I have, my dad, my mom, CJ Nelson. I’m just so thankful for everyone who has supported me through the last couple days, and I'm just so happy.”
Errico’s momentum was unstoppable, carrying it into a critical Semifinal heat against event dark-horse Mason Schremmer (USA), where she accrued yet another excellent heat total of 17.57 before the decisive Final against Culhane.
Australia's Harrison Roach came into the 2022 World Title race with the goal to surpass last season's runner-up finish. He showed every sign of accomplishing this over the two event days at Malibu, culminating in the Final against World No. 2 Kaniela Stewart (HAW).
The final minutes provided more drama as Roach fell on a great wave and left Stewart with one last chance to claim a win. However, Stewart’s style and flow all the way to the beach missed the required score by .04.
“I’m very happy, I got close last year and I realized at that point how much it takes to get here again,” said Roach. “I just put my head down, (and) made it count. I would’ve loved to have not fallen on that second good one, I left the door open for Kani (Stewart) there and he got close. When the beach commentator announced it I thought he had the score. It’s a relief for me. Longboarding didn’t have a platform like this and it was a different style of surfing, so I’m really fortunate to be here.”
Soleil Errico (USA) and Harrison Roach (AUS) won the 2022 Longboard World Titles at the Cuervo Classic Malibu Longboard Championship Presented by O'Neill, the third and final stop on the 2022 World Surf League (WSL) Longboard Tour, in world-class, three-to-four foot conditions at First Point in Malibu, CA. Errico claimed her second World Title at her home break, while Roach claimed his maiden World Title. Australia's Harrison Roach Claims Maiden World TitleTavana & Mike Love
The Australian made his big return to competing in 2019 as the WSL Longboard Tour made its transition and had one goal in his mind, claim a World Title. Seen as one of the sport's top-tier competitors from a young age, Roach's persistence and undeniable talent helped pave the way to where he is today and made his dream a realization.
Kaniela Stewart’s Maiden World Title Hopes Fall Short By Narrow Margin
The 2022 World No. 2 Stewart started his Finals Day campaign with an impeccable performance, taking out fellow Hawai'i surfer Keoki Saguibo. The 21-year-old kept his world-class form intact heading into a high-stakes Quarterfinal against Longboard Tour veteran, Tony Silvagni (USA). Silvagni pushed Stewart to the limits and left him needing an excellent score, which he achieved with under five-minutes to go. The ocean provided for Stewart once again in a Semifinal clash with event standout Declan Wyton (AUS), and with one-minute remaining he earned an 8.07 to make his appearance in the Finals.
“It was so much fun to be out there, Harrison (Roach) was killing it,” said Stewart. “There was waves, and it was so fun to be surfing with one other guy out at Malibu. It’s perfect out there and we had a good time. I’m ready for next year, just come back stronger, get back to training and watch some videos, and just try to get better.”
Sophia Culhane Leads Day of Upsets For a Dramatic Conclusion to 2022 WSL Longboard Tour Season
A history-making run for World Title longshot Culhane came to fruition after she had two incredible performances, beginning with a Quarterfinal dual against three-time WSL Champion Honolua Blomfield (HAW). Culhane left Blomfield in need of an excellent 8.10 as time expired, eliminating the former rankings leader. She then went on to overtake another World Title threat, Kelis Kaleopa’a (HAW), in the Semifinals with an aweinspiring display of style and flow.
The Top 8 men and Top 8 women on the rankings following the Cuervo Classic Malibu Longboard Championship will now prepare for the 2023 WSL Longboard Tour season, which was announced following the event's conclusion.
Cuervo Classic Malibu Longboard Championship Women’s Finals Results:
1 - Soleil Errico (USA) 17.04
2 - Sophia Culhane (HAW) 13.00
For more information, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.
Spencer and Medina Claim Victories at the Corona Saquarema Pro
presented by Banco do Brasil
The Corona Saquarema Pro pres. by Banco do Brasil, Stop No. 6 on the World Surf League (WSL) 2022 Challenger Series, finished off in spectacular fashion with Alyssa Spencer (USA) claiming the biggest win of her career so far over Tessa Thyssen (FRA) in the women’s Final, and three-time WSL World Champion Gabriel Medina (BRA) defeating Ramzi Boukhiam (MAR) in the men’s Final. The stage is now set for the remaining 2023 Championship Tour (CT) spots to be clinched at the final Challenger Series event of the season in Hale’iwa, Hawai'i.
Spencer Wins Her First Challenger Series Event, Keeps Qualification Dreams Alive
Spencer took home the biggest win of her career so far today, at the time when she needed it the most. She came to Brazil needing to make the finals in order to keep herself in reach of CT qualification, and she did just that under an immense amount of pressure. Spencer maintained her composure and form throughout the event, earning some of the highest scores and taking down several big names. Her road to the Finals today started with a matchup against an in-form Keely Andrew (AUS), in Quarterfinal, Heat 4. She then turned things up a notch in the Semifinals, Heat 2, against Amuro Tsuzuki (JPN), earning an excellent score of 8.67 (out of possible 10) on a solid lefthander.
“There are so many ups and down throughout the year, we have so many events and it’s so hard to be consistent and when you have losses it’s hard to keep yourself up, but I’ve put in a lot of work this year, so it feels really good to have it pay off,” said Spencer. “Brazil is amazing, I love the energy here and I’ve been feeding off of it. It’s been such a good week and I’ve been surrounded by the best people, so I’m really happy.”
Medina Delays Qualifications for Top Ranked Surfers
Medina once again made history, winning the first-ever Challenger Series event in Latin America. The Final between Medina and Boukhiam was a rematch of the 2013 World Pro Junior Championship which took place in Florianópolis, Brazil, where Medina clinched his first title prior to becoming the first Brazilian WSL World Champion in 2014. Medina and Boukhiam have remained friends since then and may potentially be on the 2023 Championship Tour (CT) together.
“Ramzi (Boukhiam) is a really good friend of mine, we’ve had a Final together before and he’s someone I admire a lot,” said Medina. “I know he trains hard, surfs incredibly well and I hope he makes it onto the CT because he deserves it. I’m stoked that I got the chance to finally win an event in Brazil, especially during such a challenging week here in Saquarema. I’m also happy that I’m 100% healthy and now we’re only one month away from when the real work begins when I arrive in Hawai'i.”
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Medina’s path to the Final was not an easy one having to go through Maxime Huscenot (FRA), in the Quarterfinals and local hero João Chianca (BRA), in the Semifinals. Both Huscenot and Chianca had a chance to guarantee their qualification onto the 2023 CT with an event win at the Corona Saquarema Pro, as did Boukhiam. Chianca has now moved up into 8th place on the Challenger Series rankings and Boukhiam now sits in 4th place.
Remaining 2023 Championship Tour Qualifiers to Be Decided in Hawai'i
Going into the event, four men had a chance of guaranteeing qualification for the 2023 CT prior to the last event in Hawai'i, those being Chianca, Boukhiam, Ian Gentil (HAW) and Huscenot if they made it to the Final. Although none were able to, the four took important steps towards guaranteeing their names on the 2023 CT. Boukhiam and Gentil now sit in fourth and fifth in the rankings respectively. Huscenot is currently tied in sixth place with Australian Liam O'Brien, and Chianca is in eighth place.
In the women's Challenger Series rankings, the battle for 2023 qualification has already confirmed three names, including Macy Callaghan (AUS), Molly Picklum (AUS), and Caitlin Simmers (USA). Bettylou Sakura Johnson (HAW) is currently sitting in fourth on the rankings, and is also practically guaranteed. With her Semifinal result, Teresa Bonvalot (PRT) has moved up to the final qualification spot prior to Hale’iwa. Spencer now sits just outside the cut line and could clinch her spot with another big win in Hale’iwa.
For more information, visit WorldSurfLeague.com.
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WETSUIT
The Back Zip is back! This 4/3mm premium wetsuit has been designed and tested in the harshest conditions. It features an internal rapid-dry thermal lining for ultimate warmth and comfort. The entire wetsuit is made from the highest grade limestone-based neoprene. All seams are glued, taped and blind stitched for maximum strength and seal. Eco elements included are solvent free water-based glue and Eco Carbon Black neoprene.
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O'Neill Hyperfreak Divergent Board Shorts
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Ocean Protection Non-Profits to Get Involved With
By Aleandra KahnWhile most of Hawai'i’s surf destinations are relatively clean, there’s no doubt you have either personally witnessed or seen images of surf spots and beaches across the globe littered in garbage, and it’s only getting worse.
Sure, we can turn a blind eye and ignore the problem, especially if it doesn’t seem to affect us personally, but we can also choose to get involved. There are numerous local, national, and international nonprofits who dedicate thousands of hours to clean our beaches and oceans, fight for mandated protection of our marine ecosystem, and continuously provide environmental education and lifestyle alternatives to anyone who will listen.
Remember, ultimately, all the oceans are connected and the health of one body of water will effect all others. In no particular order, here are what a few of the international nonprofits do and how you can help.
How can you help? Help by learning about and signing on to different petitions and legislative requests on their website or donating. By learning about some of the issues they are tackling, you might be inspired to change some of your daily behavior
Surfrider Foundation: Surfrider is comprised of local chapters in cities across the globe, as well as a National Chapter. Local chapters host monthly cleanups and meetings and run the Ocean Friendly Restaurant’s program which helped pass the single-use plastics ban on multiple Hawaiian Islands. Surfrider began as a group of surfers in Malibu wanting to protect their communicate from overdevelopment and pollution. They now focus on multiple sectors including; beach access, coast and climate, clean water, plastic reduction and ocean protection.
How can you help?
Surfrider’s local chapters are made up almost entirely of volunteers. Become a member, attend meetings and clean ups, volunteer to run events, help promote the Ocean Friendly Restaurants, and help with canvassing and testimonies for local priority legislation!
Oceana: Oceana is a global organization coordinating on local, national and global policy to protect marine biodiversity. Oceana also advocates for science-based fishery management (science-based catch limits, reducing bycatch, protecting habitats) and restoring the world’s oceans.
Ocean Defenders Alliance: This nonprofit focuses on cleaning and protecting marine ecosystems through documentation, education, and action with help from a large network of divers and volunteers. They sort and document all that they clean and educate the neighboring communities about the results in order to improve their impact.
How can you help? Join on one of their boat trips on the deck or in the water! If the boat life isn’t for you, help them with harbor or beach clean ups, education and outreach, or fundraising.
Other honorable mentions include Lonely Whale, Parley and 5 Gyres, and the local nonprofits, Sustainable Coastlines and 808 Clean Ups.
The WSL announces the 2023 longboard tour schedule. The tour will begin in August at the Bells Beach Longboard Classic, then the Surf City El Salvador Classic, and then will return to California in October for the Longboard Championship.
INDUSTRY NOTES
Gabriel Medina is back. After an eightmonth break from competition to take care of his mental health, Medina returned to competition only to injure his knee at the Rio Pro. Medina returned to compete at the Corona Saquarema Pro in early November.
On October 1, Maui officially started banning the sale and distribution of all non-mineral sunscreens. The new law follows the 2018 state-wide ban on the sale on sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate. The ban on chemical sunscreens was placed in an effort to protect coral reefs.
The San Onofre Surfing Club Contest took place on October 22 and 23 at San Onofre State Beach in California. The fun contest included multiple age divisions as well as a tandem heat and relay events. A particularly noteworthy moment was when photographer Jordan Anast caught an epic shot of a shark breaching while Tyler Warren surfed in front of it.
Alvin, a famous submersible reaches a record depth of four miles (6,453 meters) on a dive to the Mid-Cayman Rise in Puerto Rico. The record was a result of upgrades made to the submersible and the new record is opening doors for scientist to access and explore the deepest parts of the ocean.
The famous Billabong house at Pipeline was sold. The new purchaser has yet to be identified but according to reports, they have agreed to allow Billabong to continue to use the house for their team riders.
The Surfing For Hope Longboard Classic took place in Pismo Beach from September 30-October 1. The top male and female longboarders from North America and Hawai'i gathered to compete. In the finals, it was Haley Otto (HAW) and Sophia Culhane (HAW) for the women and Kai Sallas (HAW) and Richie Cravey (USA) for the men. Oahu’s Sallas and Culhane ultimately won the event.
John John Florence celebrated his 30th birthday on October 18, 1992.Rio Waida, Ryan Callinan, and Leo Fioravanti become the first three men to qualify for the CT via the CS. In qualifying for the tour, Waida made history by becoming the first Indonesian surfer to ever qualify for the CT.
Red Bull co-founder Dietrich Mateschitz died at 78 years old. Mateschitz and his co-founder and investor Chaleo Yoovidhya sold their first beverage in 1987, kickstarting the popularity of energy drinks.
WSL announced that Kirra Seale has now been appointed Senior Manger of the Longboard Tour,
" I saw this opportunity as a way I could find more fulfillment by giving back to the surfers and trying to work towards making the whole tour better for generations to come. "
Oahu’s Tiki Willis stars in Lahi, a short film about a young Filipina who returns to Oahu to sell her grandmother’s home after she passes aways. The film was accepted into six film festivals including the Hawai'i International Film Festival.
LAST LOOK
This angle of Waimea Bay from way back down Kam Hwy certainly shows a much steeper drop than from the front angle, one which this lone surfer decided not to go for. An unridden Monster breaks hard.
Photo Brian Bielmann