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June 2017 » freshcup.com
PHOENIX
THROUGH THE COFFEE LENS P. 52
T H E M AGA Z I N E FO R S P E C I A LT Y C O F F E E & T E A P R O F E S S I O N A L S S I N C E 1 9 9 2
FEATURES JUNE 2017 Fresh Cup Magazine » Vol. 26 » No. 6
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SPECIAL 25TH ANNIVERSARY SECTION: How did we get here? A time line of coffee’s history. P. 38 FIRST PUBLISHER’S LETTER: Ward Barbee’s first words to the coffee and tea industry. P. 40 REFLECTIONS FROM THE INDUSTRY: From first wave to tidal wave. P. 42 DO YOU KNOW JAY WELLER? The co-owner of Barista Pro Shop talks about industry growth and change P. 44 INTERVIEW WITH JAN WEIGEL: Fresh Cup’s publisher and president P. 46 A DIG THROUGH THE ARCHIVES: Past issues show us how things have—and haven’t—changed, and provide a few good laughs. P. 48
PHOENIX THROUGH THE COFFEE LENS
THE CAPE OF GOOD COFFEE
Four welcoming cafés in the desert town. P. 52
Cape Town has long been one of South Africa’s most gorgeous cities. It now has some of the country’s best coffee, too. P. 64
BY CHEYANNE PAREDES
BY NICK DALL 8
June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
SRI LANKA Celebrating 150 years of Ceylon tea. P. 76
BY GAIL GASTELU
DEPARTMENTS JUNE 2017 Fresh Cup Magazine » Vol. 26 » No. 6
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THE FILTER US Coffee Championships; USBC winner Kyle Ramage; Method Coffee Roasters at CU Boulder
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30 12
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FROM THE EDITOR
ORIGIN
Honoring Legacy
Highlights from the SCA symposium by Ellie Bradley
The Big Freeze
Narrowing the Technology Gap by Tim Heinze
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RE:CO RE:CAP
CAFÉ OUTFITTER
CONTRIBUTORS 86
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE People and products
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Little Owl Denver, Colorado by Ellie Bradley
Green Tea Inspiration by Kei Nishida
The Espresso Lab Dubai, United Arab Emirates by Ellie Bradley
BEHIND THE BAR
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THE WHOLE LEAF
June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
CAFÉ CROSSROADS
88
CALENDAR Trade shows and events
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ADVERTISER INDEX
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FROM THE EDITOR Honoring Legacy
THIS MONTH MARKS THE CELEBRATION OF FRESH
CONNECT WITH US
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ON THE COVER: PHOENIX Provision co-owner Lawrence Jarvey prepares a signature drink. ELLIE BRADLEY, EDITOR ellie@freshcup.com
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
Photo by Cheyanne Paredes
EDITO R PH OTO BY CYNTHIA M EADO RS; E SPRESSO LA B DRINK P REPAR ATIO N PHOTO BY ERIC N ATHAN
Cup’s twenty-fifth anniversary, giving us the opportunity to reflect on the dramatic growth and change that’s taken place in the industry, remember those we’ve lost, and ponder what’s to come. Admittedly, I was still grasping the basics of speech and mobility when the first issues of Fresh Cup came off the press. I thought I had an appreciation of the magazine’s legacy, but compiling this issue has deepened my understanding of just how hard Ward and Jan worked to get this publication off the ground, and its impact on the development of specialty coffee. Last month during a trip to Denver, I had the pleasure of meeting Jay DeRose, cofounder of Middle State Coffee (roasting partner to Little Owl, featured on page 26). In addition to being a generally wonderful person—who provided donuts to go along with Sunday morning coffee—Jay caught me by surprise with his own Fresh Cup anecdote. Before working in Denver’s third-wave coffee scene, Jay spent time behind the bar of coffee shops that took a much more casual approach to coffee and quality. In what I can only assume are the dusty archives of these shops, Jay discovered stacks of Fresh Cup back issues and began to read, opening the door to a world of coffee education he never knew existed. While it would be a far cry for Fresh Cup to claim Jay’s hardwon success, his description of the magazine’s role in his coffee journey floored me. I’m proud to work for a magazine that has inspired, educated, and connected members of our industry for so many years. I’m honored to work alongside talented individuals in an ever-growing community—some who offer wisdom built from years of experience, and others who are just starting out, igniting inspiration with their palpable energy and excitement. I speak for many when I say how grateful I am to Jan for continuing to work and sacrifice to make Fresh Cup the magazine it is, while keeping an open mind to explore what it can become. I am thankful to her for seeing the potential in Ward and this magazine all those years ago, for refusing to give up during times of great challenge, and for welcoming so many people to join in building the legacy of our industry.
FRESH CUP MAGAZINE ~~~FRESH CUP FOUNDER~~~ WARD BARBEE 1938-2006 ~~~FRESH CUP PUBLISHING~~~ Publisher and President JAN WEIGEL jan@freshcup.com ~~~EDITORIAL~~~ Editor ELLIE BRADLEY ellie@freshcup.com Associate Editor RACHEL SANDSTROM MORRISON rachel@freshcup.com ~~~ART~~~ Art Director CYNTHIA MEADORS cynthia@freshcup.com ~~~ADVERTISING~~~ Sales Manager MICHAEL HARRIS michael@freshcup.com Ad Coordinator DIANE HOWARD adtraffic@freshcup.com Marketing Coordinator ANNA SHELTON anna@freshcup.com ~~~CIRCULATION~~~ Circulation Director ANNA SHELTON anna@freshcup.com ~~~ACCOUNTING~~~ Accounting Manager DIANE HOWARD diane@freshcup.com ~~~EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD~~~ DAVID GRISWOLD
ANUPA MUELLER
Sustainable Harvest Coffee Importers
Eco-Prima
CHUCK JONES
BRAD PRICE
Jones Coffee Roasters
Monin Gourmet Flavorings
JULIA LEACH
BRUCE RICHARDSON
Toddy
Elmwood Inn Fine Teas
COSIMO LIBARDO
MANISH SHAH
Toby’s Estate Coffee
Maya Tea Co.
BRUCE MILLETTO
LARRY WINKLER
Bellissimo Coffee Advisors
Torani
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
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CONTRIBUTORS NICK DALL Nick Dall is a world-traveling journalist and copywriter who is rediscovering his hometown of Cape Town, South Africa. In “The Cape of Good Coffee” on page 64, Dall takes us through Cape Town’s burgeoning coffee culture, giving insight into how the city grew to be home to some of South Africa’s best-known cafés and roasteries.
GAIL GASTELU Gail Gastelu, owner and publisher of the Tea House Times, celebrates 150 years of Ceylon tea by sharing her experiences traveling to the birthplace of Ceylon, the beautiful island country of Sri Lanka (“Sri Lanka: 150 Years of Ceylon Tea,” page 76). Gastelu talks differing flavor profiles due to terroir, strict growing and labeling requirements, and the importance of knowing your growers.
TIM HEINZE Tim Heinze is the general manager and owner of Hani Coffee Co. and Yunnan Coffee Traders. In this month’s Origin column (page 32), Heinze discusses how innovation across the supply chain—namely color sorting technology—has increased the quality of coffee in the Yunnan province of China.
ERIC NATHAN Eric Nathan is a freelance photographer specializing in travel and landscape imagery, a passion he has been pursuing for over twenty years. His work has taken him to over ninety countries and has been widely published. Nathan’s photos appear in this month’s feature on coffee in Cape Town, South Africa (“The Cape of Good Coffee,” page 64), where he currently resides.
KEI NISHIDA Green tea is not just a source of ritual, ceremony, and antioxidants. In the Whole Leaf (page 30), Kei Nishida explores several innovative—and delicious—additions to green tea, from whiskey to lychee, and gin in between. Nishida is the author of I Will Teach You How to Be Healthy Using Japanese Green Tea.
CHEYANNE PAREDES Cheyanne Paredes spent two years as a Phoenician, getting to know the coffee culture and community in this desert town. In her photo essay, “Phoenix Through the Coffee Lens” (Page 53), Paredes gives us several reasons to think of Arizona’s capital city first when pondering specialty coffee.
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The FILTER A Fine Blend of News and Notes
US COFFEE CHAMPIONS CROWNED IN SEATTLE
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he US Coffee Championships were held during the Global Specialty Coffee Expo, tucked away in a space upstairs, sequestered from the buzzing crowds and sprawling vendor displays on the main show floor. As attendees climbed the long escalators to the competition area, the sense of anticipation became electric. Competitors paced anxiously, awaiting their turn to perform; nervous energy mounted as the announcement of finalists drew nearer. After three grueling rounds of competition, Kyle Ramage took the coveted title of US Barista Champion with a performance that showcased a frozen coffee from Panama. Andrea Allen (Onyx Coffee Lab) finished in second by just 4.5 points, and Talya Strader (Equator Coffee & Teas) took third. Rounding out the field of barista competitor finalists were Samuel Lewontin (Everyman Espresso), Bethany Hargrove (Wrecking Ball Coffee Roasters), and Josh Taves (Novo Coffee). Onyx had an impressive showing in Seattle: Dylan Siemens claimed victory in the Brewers Cup Championship and Mark Michaelson won the Roaster Championship. Slate Coffee Roaster’s Chelsey Walker-Watson took second in the Brewers Cup com-
petition, followed by Jacob White (Bird Rock Coffee Roasters), Jessica Rodriguez (Klatch Coffee Roasters), Tommy Kim (Andante Coffee Roasters), and Michael Schroeder (Oddly Correct Coffee Roasters). Finishing behind Michaelson in the Roaster Championship were Tony Querio (Spyhouse Coffee Roasting Co.), Taylor Gresham (Evocation Coffee), Tim Maestas (Augie’s Coffeehouse), Chris Vigilante (Vigilante Coffee Company), and Evan Inatome (Elixr Coffee). The Cup Tasters Championship advanced only three competitors to the finals, where the victor was determined by a combination of speed and accuracy. Steve Cuevas of Black Oak Roasters took first in the event, followed by Anderson Stockdale (Blacksmith), and Samuel Demisse (Keffa Coffee). Qualifying events took place earlier this year in Knoxville, Tennessee, and Austin, Texas, to distinguish the top competitors in each event. Siemens and Cuevas will compete in the World Brewers Cup and World Cup Tasters Championships in Budapest, Hungary, this June at the World of Coffee event. The World Barista Championship and the World Roaster Championship will take place at Cafe Show Seoul in Korea
ON THE TOP: (from top to bottom) Barista Champs top six; Brewers Cup top three; Cup Tasters top three; Roaster Champs top three.
this November, where Ramage and Michaelson will compete in their respective events.
Q&A: 2017 US BARISTA CHAMPION KYLE RAMAGE Kyle Ramage (Mahlkönig USA) has taken on a new title: US Barista Champion. In a performance featuring dry ice, long extractions, and Panamanian coffee from Finca Nuguo, he eked out a victory over a field of veteran competitors. WHAT WERE SOME INITIAL RESPONSES WHEN YOU TOLD PEOPLE YOU WERE GOING TO PRESENT FROZEN COFFEE?
The first time I did it, people thought I was kind of crazy. It’s the exact opposite of what we’ve been told by other manufacturers to think about. Even some of the most progressive coffee minds out there were like, “What are you doing? This is a huge risk.” Lem [Butler] was nervous, Trevor Corlett— who
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
P HOTOS BY ZAC H M AZRIM
KYLE RAMAGE is crowned the 2017 US Barista Champion
KYLE RAMAGE during his winning performance at USBC.
co-owns Madcap and sponsored my coffee for the qualifier—was really nervous, but then they tasted it with me in Knoxville and they were like, “OK, yes, that’s spectacular.” HOW DID YOU ENSURE THE JUDGES DIDN’T HAVE THE SAME INITIAL REACTION?
In a barista competition, just like any spoken communication, you have thirty seconds to bring judges into the routine. If you don’t get them in that first thirty seconds, you’re sunk, it’s over. Even if you present good information, it’s going to be hard for them to buy in, or be able to go back and forth with you mentally. HOW DID YOU COME TO USE THE NUGUO FOR YOUR USBC COMPETITION COFFEE?
[In working with frozen coffee], I noticed the lighter the roast the better when combined with my extraction style. I worked with Kyle Tush, the roaster for Counter Culture. [Tush also roasted Butler’s winning coffee in 2016, which also came from Finca Nuguo.—Ed.] I told him what I was doing and what styles of roast worked best, so he roasted it pretty darn light for me.
It’s been cool to chat with the barista competitors and champions from around the world who’ve sent me messages—it’s been really encouraging. It’s a pretty baller crew to step up on. You’ve got Lem, and Laila [Wilbur], and Charles [Babinski], then you’ve got this country boy from Mississippi up there so it’s a pretty different vibe. I’m trying to balance what it means to be a champion and a representative of American specialty coffee. I think that means being personable and being who I am— quirky and a little bit odd—but super friendly and trying to make time for people. Read the full interview with Ramage online at freshcup.com.
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
PH OTO C OURTESY O F M AH LKÖNIG
WHAT HAS THE RESPONSE BEEN LIKE FROM THE COFFEE COMMUNITY IN THE WAKE OF SEATTLE?
BACK TO SCHOOL
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offee on college campuses usually leaves much to be desired—and students desperate for caffeine to survive late-night study sessions have little room to protest. Fortunately, the trend of poor quality and lackluster hospitality shows promising signs of change. Last month, Method Coffee Roasters opened its first café at the University of Colorado Boulder, introducing an innovative model to support students while growing their business. The Denver–based roasting company was founded by Kade Gianinetti, Alex Rawal, and Zach Holcomb— all alumni of CU Boulder. After the café in the university’s Leeds School of Business closed due to missed insurance payments and tax issues, the school issued a request for proposal for a café business plan. A Leeds graduate, Rawal jumped at the opportunity. “Our goal was to maintain the soul of the previous café, but ensure all taxes and compliance needs were taken care of. In addition to this, we wanted to serve better coffee,” he says. Method started in 2013, and serves a collection of restaurants, cafés, and offices in Colorado. With values heavily focused on creating meaningful connections and influencing positive change by serving local community, expanding business to the university was a logical step. The café will be staffed by students, and 5 percent of gross sales will go to a scholarship fund for the business school. In addition to gaining a foundation in hospitality, students will have valuable opportunities to be mentored in areas of business that align with their majors, whether that be in accounting, marketing, environmental studies, or beyond. “Launching our café inside Leeds was an ideal option when it became available— we can grow our business, support students in school, and provide funding for a scholarship,” Rawal says. The café launched with a traditional espresso menu—ranging from espresso neat to cortados, lattes, and cappuccinos—in addition to offerings like a nitro cold-brew on draft. The entire menu is supplied by local purveyors, including Rocky Mountain Soda Company, Pressery, the Sophisticate’s Chai, Teakoe Tea, and Rosenberg’s Bagels. FC
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Re:co Re:cap The Re:co Symposium is an incredible gathering of talented individuals from a variety of industries, joining together to share— and challenge—ideas, encourage the adoption of new perspectives, and strengthen the network of resources for developing and advancing the coffee industry. Re:co is a starting point for continued conversation and an impetus for collaboration. (Trivia tidbit: World Coffee Research formed following a call to action at one of the first Re:co Symposiums.) The presentations at this year’s event covered a broad range of topics, from sobering discussions around the daunting challenges of climate change, crop diversity, and economics, to enlightening presentations of science, and heartwarming stories of community.
LUCIA SOLIS, Scott Laboratories COFFEE FERMENTATION: A WINEMAKER’S PERSPECTIVE Fermentation isn’t new to science, but the application of controlled fermentation in coffee production— and use of the scientifically accurate definition of the term by many industry members—is relatively new. Lucia Solis addressed current fermentation issues in Latin American coffee production, and challenged the industry to reexamine current practices, both in how the term “fermentation” is used at origin, and in how the scientific process can be leveraged at the mill to the advantage of producers. Solis considers herself a fermentation designer, and works with commercial applications of yeasts cultivated to improve consistency, quality, and repeatability in the fermentation of coffee. This practice is common in winemaking and other agricultural industries, and amplifies flavor complexity through compounds produced in the intermediate steps of fermentation (a metabolic process where sugar is converted into CO2 and ethanol, among other products). Because there are so many unknown factors in a fermentation tank—including fluctuating populations of yeasts, bacteria, fungus, and mold—many coffee pro-
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
ducers associate “fermentation” with poor-quality coffee and actively avoid it because of the variability and vulnerability of coffee during this period. To overcome the barrier of antiquated thinking, Solis works with roasters, importers, and producers to help stakeholders along the supply chain understand the value yeast-controlled fermentation offers. Yeast, bacteria, and molds are already present in every fermentation tank, and they compete to consume the fruit sugars found in the mucilage of the coffee cherries. Adding a known population specifically selected to provide desirable traits to induce demucilagination allows farmers to actively participate in the resulting quality, instead of passively letting chance and nature determine the outcome. Because the population and quantity of yeast is known, farmers can reproduce desirable results, as well as reduce water usage, cut back on labor costs, and improve the overall efficiency of fermentation. DR. CHRISTOPHER HENDON, Postdoctoral Scholar at Massachusetts Institute of Technology
CRYOGENICS: FACTS & APPLICATIONS The intersection of cold temperatures and coffee continues to generate excitement, outrage, and intrigue—
Christopher Hendon’s Re:co presentation was no exception. While freezing coffee can diminish quality if not done properly, the results can also be impressive and unprecedented—Kyle Ramage won the 2017 US Barista Championship with a routine showcasing a frozen Panama Nuguo from Counter Culture Coffee. Hendon focused on the prospects of freezing green and roasted coffee for flavor presentation. In green coffee applications, lowering temperatures slows the rate of decomposition. While preserving green coffee prevents any seed viability (a concern when discussing logistics of coffee gene banks, as Maria Haga addressed in her presentation), when green coffee is stored with the intention of being roasted, there’s no compromise to quality—only an extended preservation period. The key for implementing freezing effectively is to have a dry storage environment, preventing water from accelerating the seed’s decomposition. For applications in roasted coffee, the same principles apply. In practice, vacuum sealing a bag of roasted coffee and storing it in the freezer will allow the coffee to maintain its quality for a very long time. Assuming a dry storage environment, the benefits of freezing increase as temperatures get colder. Because colder environments slow reactions (e.g. rate of staling, and the evaporation/sublimation of volatiles, good smells, and
tastes), every 10 degrees Celsius slows the rate of these reactions by about half. For example, a conventional freezer at -20 degrees Celsius provides the advantage of reactions occurring sixteen times as slowly as they would at room temperature. Check out the side bar to see how George Howell blew minds with a presentation of “vintage” coffees, frozen as green coffee three to four years ago, then roasted for Re:co. (Spoiler alert: they were incredible.) HEATHER WARD, Market Research Manager for the Specialty Coffee Association
BENCHMARKING: A TOOL TO CONSTRUCT BETTER COFFEE BUSINESSES The SCA recently released a second iteration of its financial benchmarking survey, seeking to help roasting companies compare their financial performance relative to other companies, determine roaster challenges, and determine market size of roasters in the United States and Canada. The survey now includes a segment for roaster retailers. Data collected from the survey helps identify profit leaders in the industry and gives users hard data points to compare against their own business. Users can sort
ON TAP Re:co featured a sensory lab with lots of exciting flavors and textures to explore, including these impressive coffees. GEORGE HOWELL’S VINTAGE COFFEES These exceptionally good harvests were frozen as green coffee, then roasted prior to Re:co. La Esperanza March 2012 Harvest: Finca La Esperanza is a fourth-generation farm located in San Pedro Necta, Huehuetenango, Guatemala, with sixty-seven hectares dedicated to coffee. This coffee is bourbon and caturra varietals grown at 1,800 meters above sea level (MASL). Mamuto AA December 2014 Harvest: A combination of SL-28 and SL-34 cultivated in Kirinyaga, Kenya, at 1,500 MASL on a farm beneath the slopes of Mt. Kenya. Howell has a long-standing partnership with Walter Paul Mathagu, who manages the farm with his family. Borboya December 2012 Harvest: Borboya is a private washing station located in Borena, Oromia, Ethiopia (designated as a Yirgacheffe), that buys cherry from small farmers whose plots averaged a little less than two acres. This Borboya harvest is comprised of mixed heirloom varietals grown between 1,800–1,950 MASL.
WORLD COFFEE RESEARCH’S F1 HYBRIDS World Coffee Research has been working to develop varieties of coffee that can thrive in the changing climate and withstand detrimental pests and disease while also producing desirable cup quality and yields. By breeding genetically distinct arabica parents and using the firstgeneration (F1) offspring, these hybrids combine traits that matter most to farmers and consumers. These coffees were grown at EXPASA La Aurora Matagalpa, Nicaragua, at 1,200 MASL. Centroamericano: A cross between wild-type Ethiopian variety Rume Sudan and T5296 (sarchimor). Mundo Maya: A cross between wild-type Ethiopian CATIE ET01 and T5296 (sarchimor). Starmaya: A cross between a sterile, male wild-type Ethiopian variety and Marsallesa (sarchimor). This is the first seed-propagated F1 hybrid, which holds promise for the future of hybrids. Centroamericano and Mundo Maya were both bred in lab environments via tissue culture.
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results by net sales, company type, pounds of coffee roasted per year, number of locations, community size served, primary facility location, and SCA membership. The 2017 survey streamlines data collection and results review for survey respondents. Users can enter data and review results on an online platform, as well as download individualized reports. Data collection for the 2017 survey ended on May 31, and results are projected to become available this month. JAN ANDERSON AND DAN MCCLOSKEY, Premium Quality Consulting
DECONSTRUCTION THE THIRD WAVE: WHAT SUCCESS TELLS US Jan Anderson and Dan McCloskey study the evolution of the coffee industry through the lens of brands, examining the way they are born, change, and evolve. Through studying the rhetoric of coffee spoken by nearly 1,400 brands, Anderson and McCloskey examined the rise of the first, second, and third waves of coffee, with special attention to the current period, to which they referred as “the tidal wave.” Tidal wave brands began to show distinction from third-wave brands around 2007. These brands demonstrate a narrowing of third-wave values, affecting how coffee is roasted (lighter) and influencing the conversation around coffee, highlighting desires to keep the product in the cup as close to the original natural product as possible. “Millennial values in coffee, picking up the mantle of third wave and continuing to refine and reduce it, creating more rules and stridency, leads us to the next thing,” Anderson says. Small, independent businesses tend influence of change. These are the cafés in direct contact with consumers, with access to a direct feedback loop and the ability to quickly adapt to changing consumer demands. “Small businesses know the future before anybody,” Anderson says. “Just listen.” RACHEL TABER, MEG KARKI, AND DOUG HEWITT, 1951 Coffee Company
IT TAKES A COMMUNITY The trio from 1951 Coffee Company shared hard truths and powerful stories detailing the challenges faced by refugees—not only in their native countries, but when they arrive to make a new home in asylum countries.
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
When refugees arrive in the United States, they’re expected to be self-sufficient in six months; obtaining employment is paramount in making self-sufficiency possible. However, due to lack of experience, references, résumés, and training, securing jobs is difficult. Meg Karki was born in Bhutan in 1989, then fled to Nepal with his family at age three. After nineteen years in a refugee camp in Nepal, Karki traveled to the United States. One of his first jobs was packaging coffee, along with working in restaurants. Partnering with 1951 Coffee Company, Karki helped develop a food-service training program to give refugees skills before applying for jobs. He is now a senior barista at 1951 and part of the barista training program. 1951 Coffee Company was founded with the goal of connecting refugees to an industry that would welcome them to the US workforce, providing access to customer-facing jobs, in a setting central to American life: the café. Hewitt says the important thing for business owners to know is they can make a difference by starting with just one refugee, and building from there.
shop and purchase with their eyes. We buy things that look good,” he says. “We may decide we don’t like a product and never buy it again without really thinking about why we don’t like it. Much of why we may not like products is non-visual.” Wedler encourages the hospitality community to consider the impact of sensory perceptions beyond those we interpret visually. “Companies tend to spend the majority of their marketing budgets on graphic design. I can’t help but question this and ask what else, other than the look, contributes to strong sales of products.” FC
DR. HENRY “HOBY” WEDLER Senspoint LLC
EYESIGHT: HELP OR HINDRANCE? Hoby Wedler recently graduated with a PhD in computational organic chemistry and started Senspoint LLC, a sensory advising and education company. He was born completely blind. Wedler focuses part of his work in the sensory sphere on the food and drink sector, and in an area he coined as sensory design, which refers to all the non-visual ways we perceive everything we experience, from the design of Amazon’s packaging to the ergonomics and comfort of cars. He says sensory design is often overlooked, and is an element of design in the consumption experience that needs to be paid closer attention. “Many retail shoppers
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Vintage Variety: Each piece of glassware stored on the back shelf was selected to accommodate a specific milk-to-coffee ratio. “That’s a big portion of everything we do here,” owner Seanna Forey says, “functionality and aesthetic and trying to blend the two.”
Altitude Adjustment: Because of the high altitude in Denver, water boils at a much lower temperature, resulting in challenges with under-counter water systems. The Marco Über font pre-heats water to 196º Fahrenheit, then the water is transferred to a kettle on a single burner and held at boiling for the remainder of the pour-over process.
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Form + Function: The barista working the till also mans the two-group La Marzocco Strada MP, which Foley says they chose for aesthetics, functionality, and reliable service support.
Preparation Nation: On the manual brew bar, single-origin selections are predosed for either V60 or Aeropress. Glass jars hold singleorigin beans pre-dosed for the Fetco CBS-2041e batch brewer.
June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
Custom Design: Pastries are stored under the point-ofsale, in a wood and glass encasement designed by local artist Justin Pollom.
Pristine Pour-over: Customers camped out at the counter have a full view of the manual brew bar, which includes a sleek Marco Über font and under-counter boiler, white Acaia scales, Hario kettles, V60s, and Aeropresses.
Stone Kold: Side-by-side Mazzer Robur Kold grinders hold a rotating single-origin and Espresso Neat, the staple espresso blend from Middle State Coffee.
Quick Rinse: A small space required some compromises, including a pitcher rinser on the back bar instead of next to the espresso machine. With too little space for hinge doors, slidingdoor refrigeration was also a must, despite its hefty price tag.
BEHIND the BAR
D
By Ellie Bradley
Little Owl Coffee » Denver, Colorado
enver’s Union Station ushers large crowds into the city’s Lower Downtown (LoDo) area, scattering commuters, tourists, and suburbanites to nearby offices, restaurants, and attractions. Though Denver boasts an impressive list of specialty coffee shops, the vibrant district was devoid of any third-wave offerings until 2013, when Seanna Forey opened Little Owl on Blake Street. Forey lived in LoDo at the time, and was an active member of the city’s coffee community. Painfully aware of the coffee desert she was living in, Forey eventually pitched the idea of turning a conference room in the neighborhood’s SugarCube Building into a coffee shop. “One thing led to another and it worked out,” she says. But the shop was much smaller than Forey had anticipated. Making it work required creativity, a few compromises, and a lot of research within the city’s coffee community. “I talked to as many baristas as I could, talking through the challenges that they faced even on a normal-sized bar,” she says. Forey enlisted Joshua McNeilly of Denver’s Black Black Coffee to help her synthesize all the information she’d gathered into designing a bar that was ergonomically
friendly, cultivated happiness for employees, and was a positive environment. “That was our number one thing: we wanted positivity and a healthy environment,” Forey says. “We really, really tried hard to make it a beautiful space, but one that was approachable and warm.” Approachability was important for welcoming in many outof-towners new to specialty coffee, and for supporting other Denver coffee businesses. Foley says she drew from negative experiences feeling alienated in specialty shops and worked diligently to create a warm atmosphere at Little Owl. The café is the customer-facing counterpart to Middle State Coffee, a roastery started by Jay DeRose and Dustin Pace. DeRose was an integral part of the planning phase and early operating days at Little Owl. He left the café to work in other areas of coffee, then launched Middle State Coffee with Pace in 2014. As both businesses continued to find success, Forey and DeRose decided to form a partnership between the two companies. “We’ve always been really good friends, and we both realized we were better together,” Forey says. “We joined forces; two very different brands that complement each other well.” FC
PH OTO S BY ELLIE BRA DLEY
Condiment Corner: Customers pick up drinks next to the Strada MP, where the condiments are also stationed.
Earn Your Keep: The Mahlkönig EK 43 earns its prominent place, taking care of grinding for batch brewing, the manual brew bar, and some one-off espresso selections.
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Café OUTFITTER:
The Big Freeze
Café owners, it’s time to step up your cold beverage options for summer. Cold-brew and Japanesestyle iced coffee are delicious options—as is the occasional frappe—but sometimes, all you want is something cold and sweet. We’ve found five fun tools for you to use in your café to DIY some delicious frozen treats, caffeinated or not.
MINI ME Treat your customers to the cutest little ice cream sandwiches with Cuisipro’s Mini Ice Cream Sandwich Maker. These minis are easy to use, dishwasher safe, and come in three shapes: heart, star, and classic circle. Your customers will love the variety, and your employees will love how easy they are to make. cuisipro.com
SLUSH PUPPY Slushies are so hot right now—get your café on trend with a slushy machine. These countertop machines come in all shapes and sizes, but we’re a fan of the Bunn Ultra-2, featuring twin three-gallon hoppers. Bunn’s slushy machine is NSF certified and approved for use with alcohol and dairy, so your frozen drink possibilities are endless. bunnomatic.com
NOTTER POP Move away from the sugar-water ice pops of the nineties and make your own fruit-filled treats. Zipzicle zip-top ice pop pouches are resealable, easy to fill, and come in packs of eighteen or thirty-six—perfect for making a big batch! Blend fruit and juice or coffee and milk together, fill the Zipzicle bags with a funnel, and freeze through. zipzicles.com
WE ALL SCREAM For a classic summer treat, look to ice cream. Cuisinart’s electric ice cream maker, the Ice 70, produces up to two quarts of creamy deliciousness in about twenty minutes. The Ice 70 has a digital control panel with three settings: ice cream, gelato, or sorbet. Available at Williams Sonoma for $140. williams-sonoma.com
SAFARI SAM Take your customers on a tasty frozen safari with Zoku Safari Pop Molds. The four molds—Curious Professor, Parrot, Elephant, and Monkey—are not only adorable, but they make it super easy to craft your own Popsicles in any flavor combo you can think of. We’re partial to cold-brew, cream, and a touch of maple, but go crazy! zokuhome.com FC
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
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The WHOLE LEAF Green Tea Inspiration » By Kei Nishida
T
ea is a true cultural staple in many countries, and one of the most popular drinks all around. There have long been two main ways of consuming tea: hot or iced. But with fresh flavors and new influences coming from around the world, the tea game has changed dramatically. This is a great time for tea aficionados. We can enjoy amazing teas such as Japanese matcha, Chinese kombucha, and many other variations that were hard to find in the Western world just a few years ago. But what if you took tea one step further? Green tea is finding its way into innovative beverage combinations that deliver intriguing flavors and add excitement to café menus. Here are a few green tea–infused recipes to spark your creativity this summer.
GREEN TEA WHISKEY By blending tradition and innovation, some New York City bars are establishing a trend: green tea and whiskey cocktails. Green tea whiskey is a great drink to welcome summer. The recipe is simple: fill a rocks glass with ice cubes, add two fingers of whiskey, and top with green tea. Add a lemon wedge for zesty freshness.
ice. Stir with a long spoon until very cold. Strain into a chilled coupe or martini glass and garnish with a lime wedge.
GREEN TEA FLOATS One of the most popular drinks under the hot sun is a green tea float. This dessert-beverage combo is made by mixing cold green tea with vanilla ice cream. For more adventurous
green tea. This combination has a complex flavor profile, topped with beautifully frothy foam. This is not what you would classify as a health drink, but both green tea and beer are well known for their high concentration of antioxidants. Heineken with green tea is popular in Thailand, and is simple to make: fill a pint glass one-third of the way with green tea, then top with beer. For some sweetness, add honey.
It might sound bizarre, but a crisp lager tastes delicious when mixed with green tea. This combination has a complex flavor profile, topped with beautifully frothy foam.
GREEN TEA GIMLET The gimlet is a classic cocktail, good with vodka, but excellent with gin. Elevate the flavors of gin and lime juice with the addition of brewed green tea. To make your green tea gimlet, combine two ounces of gin, threequarters of an ounce fresh lime juice, three-quarters of an ounce simple syrup, and two ounces green tea in a cocktail shaker filled with
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flavors, swap the vanilla ice cream for fruity selections like blueberry, strawberry, or lemon. A green tea float is a great option for a decadent afternoon tea, and it’s particularly amazing when enjoyed with a rich, buttery cookie.
GREEN TEA HEINEKEN It might sound bizarre, but a crisp lager tastes delicious when mixed with
June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
Green tea loves the flavor of fruits. Green tea and lemon is a classic combo, but other fruits make great complements, such as pineapple, berries, and lychee. Lychee has a sweet flavor, similar to the mixture of grapes and watermelon. These beautiful nuances are a fabulous fit for green tea. The drink also offers some amazing health benefits: lychee is rich in antioxidants, and features a huge punch of vitamin C, potassium, and fiber. To make green tea with lychee, brew your green tea as usual and add a few ounces of lychee juice. Or, drop peeled lychees in a glass of brewed green tea and let them soak overnight. Not only will the tea absorb some of the natural lychee sweetness, but the fruits will soak up the distinctive flavors of green tea. Which one of these unusual green tea drinks will you sip this summer? FC Kei Nishida is the author of I Will Teach You How to Be Healthy by Using Japanese Green Tea.
P HOTO BY CYNTHIA MEA DO RS
LYCHEE GREEN TEA
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ORIGIN
O
utsiders who devote their work to supporting coffee-growing regions become both observers and participants in the lives of producers. The challenge is not just knowing how to help, but implementing assistance so the farmer’s life, work, and family can experience an actual change for the better. For the last eight years, this has been the passion of Yunnan Coffee Traders as we work with coffee farmers in southern Yunnan. I first came to China in 2009 as a part of an effort to invest in community development in the rural areas of Yunnan. As the areas we were working among began turning their attention and focus to coffee, we realized that this exciting industry could become a
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way to develop communities and provide financial stability for low-income regional farmers. We began by becoming students, learning the nuances of the coffee industry, the region, and the culture to know exactly how to help. Associations like the Coffee Quality Institute (CQI), Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), and other industry leaders were instrumental in providing a basic foundation for education and instruction. But it was the countless conversations with farmers in this region that provided the nuts and bolts to this framework. Our company, Yunnan Coffee Traders, began exporting coffee four years ago, introducing the world to the specialty coffees grown in the region. We identified several pressing
June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
needs early on: (i) a need to understand exactly how to produce and assess the quality of the local coffees; (ii) a way to identify the value for that coffee; and (iii) a need to open new markets to sell the coffee. There were times when some of this work seemed to offer a quick fix when we desired to deliver long-term solutions. Over time, the driving force in our local initiatives has become innovation across the entire production process. No small task, but we are up for the challenge! In 2015, I was talking with our main coffee grower, Mr. Hu (highlighted in Fresh Cup’s December 2016 issue) about the challenges our cooperative farming members were confronting—they did not have sufficient time to harvest coffee. They were trying to
P HOTO BY BRYON LIP P INC OTT
Narrowing the Technology Gap » By Tim Heinze
simultaneously harvest tea, coffee, and sugar cane. Scrupulous selective picking methods posed a challenge, as there simply weren’t enough hours in the day. We didn’t want to compromise on the high quality we’d been able to achieve, but the reality of demand on our time was an issue we had to address. We already employed various technologies at the wet mill to help separate ripe and unripe cherries, but the effectiveness of these machines wasn’t consistently meeting our standards, and we were seeing a decreasing amount of high-quality coffee coming off the wet mill. Knowing that many countries use mechanical harvesting methods and wondering how they deal with this problem, we found inspiration when we began to consider the color-sorting technology commonly employed at the dry mill. So we decided to explore what it would look like to introduce this concept at the wet mill.
After more than a year of research, development, and tweaking, we introduced the first ever commercially viable color sorting technology for wet mill use in China.
Color sorting has been implemented in wet mills around the globe, but it had never been used in Yunnan—and importing the technology was not going to be cheap. I reached out to a domestic color sorting company to share with them our challenge and see if they had a machine that could successfully, quickly, and accurately sort ripe and unripe coffee cherries. We met many hurdles—the color sorting company had limited coffee knowledge, and it was quite a challenge to explain what a real-life situation at the wet mill would be. We needed this color sorter to be waterproof and easy to use, and we needed to be able to easily handle the inevitable dirt and debris. After more than a year of research, development, and tweaking, we introduced the first ever commer-
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In implementing the color sorter, it has become very clear that this type of technology has the ability to overcome many obstacles farmers face when increasing quality by only using fully ripe cherries. However, we are still working with the company who manufactures these machines to increase the volume per hour, and to provide machines at different price points. Our desire is that smallholder farmers as well as large plantations can access this technology at an affordable price. Ultimately, we believe that increasing the quality of the coffee farmers are producing provides them the opportunity for higher revenues. As our company continues to expand Yunnan’s acceptability in the foreign market, we believe there will be more and more opportunities globally for high-quality coffees from this region. FC
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June 2017 Âť Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
P HOTO BY BR YO N LIPP INC OTT
cially viable color sorting technology for wet mill use in China. We believe there is room for improvement, but the initial runs are looking amazing—and the coffee is fantastic. In fact, our naturals this year have consistently been cupping among the best coffees in Yunnan. Farmers are already bringing their coffee cherries to our mill to be sorted, and wondering when they can install a color sorter at their mill.
Café CROSSROADS
The Espresso Lab » Dubai, United Arab Emirates By Ellie Bradley
A
s a child, Ibrahim Al Mallouhi would sit fireside, watching his g rand mo the r ro a s t green coffee over the open flames. Once the beans were a rich, dark brown, she would cool and
This type of coffee service is typical in the United Arab Emirates, where Al Mallouhi grew up, so when he tasted a cappuccino at Fika in New York City, he implored the barista to explain why the coffee was so much better than anything he’d had before. “He
I started my coffee journey out of curiosity, love, and waiting to understand the mechanics behind that cup of joe that changed my life. grind them, immediately adding hot water and spices, then offer the freshly brewed coffee to guests or family members who had gathered.
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explained they were serving specialty coffee,” Al Mallouhi recalls. “I immediately started searching specialty coffee on Google.”
June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
Al Mallouhi came across companies like George Howell Coffee, Intelligentsia, Stumptown, and Blue Bottle. What began as an internet query turned into a full-fledged coffee tour: he began visiting coffee shops all around the United States, including a road trip from San Diego to Seattle. “I started my coffee journey out of curiosity, love, and wanting to understand the mechanics behind that cup of joe that changed my life,” he says. That desire led Al Mallouhi to take classes at the American Barista & Coffee School, complete barista certification courses with the SCAE, and undergo more training with the SCAA. As Al Mallouhi built his coffee knowledge, he began to form plans for the Espresso Lab. He recruited and trained baristas, visited farms in Ethiopia and established trade partnerships, imported additional coffee from Cafe Imports,
PHOTO S CO URTESY O F T HE ESP RESSO LAB
IBRAHIM AL MALLOUHI
and rented space in a roastery. Al Mallouhi hired roaster Freddy Warrens and they began to prepare coffee on a five-kilogram Probat. The Espresso Lab opened in May 2015 in a residential area of Dubai. The neighborhood setting encourages one-on-one interaction with customers, as if guests were stepping into Al Mallouhi’s home. The warm tones of the long wooden bar are soft and welcoming, inviting customers to interact directly with baristas and explore the plethora of brewing methods offered in the shop. A single community table accounts for the shop’s seating, a dining room–like arrangement that prioritizes service and guest interaction. “When I opened the Espresso Lab, my main aim was to educate people about specialty coffee,” he says. “When customers come in asking for a latte or cappuccino, we explain that we serve coffee in a different way:
in sizes of four to eight ounces, and single origin. When people ask about the differences, we’re able to start giving them more information about the coffee: the growing altitude, the tasting notes, what part of the farm the coffee comes from.” Armed with abundant patience, a full stock of manual brewing gear, and a two-group Synesso, Al Mallouhi and his staff are equipped to deliver whatever coffee experience customers request. “It’s a space for you to unwind, learn about specialty coffee, and enjoy my version of a perfect cup of coffee,” he says. The etched wooden menus illustrate offerings and brew methods, serving as a visual guide for coffee newcomers. Guests looking for a curated experience can order Fika—served on a custom-designed tray—which allows customers to taste an off-menu flight of espresso neat, espresso with milk, and brewed coffee.
The meticulous training and planning that went into creating the Espresso Lab has been reflected in the success outside the shop: Espresso Lab baristas claimed victory in both the 2015 and 2016 UAE Barista Championship, as well as the 2016 Latte Art and Brewers Cup Championships. Though the Espresso Lab serves to inspire a new movement in Dubai, Al Mallouhi hopes to influence change across the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC), a union of Arab states which border the Persian Gulf: Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and the United Arab Emirates. Each month, Al Mallouhi meets with coffee business owners from member countries to share knowledge about specialty coffee and promote industry growth within the GCC. “We’re working together to come up with ways to assist and support each other and raise awareness about specialty coffee.” FC
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HOW DID WE GET HERE?
Folger’s Coffee starts in San Francisco during the Gold Rush.
George Howell launches Coffee Connection in Cambridge, Massachusetts.
1850
1974
Homer references coffee in The Odyssey.
First pumpdriven espresso machine produced by M. Faema.
~700 CE
1961
Howard Schultz leaves Starbucks to start Il Giornale, serving brewed coffee beverages with Starbucks beans. Il Giornale would later buy Starbucks.
The term “specialty coffee” is coined by Erna Knutsen; Kent Bakke imports La Marzocco espresso machines from Italy.
1985
1978
First Wave (1850–1960)
Second Wave (1960–1994)
800 BCE
1966
1982
Kaldi discovers his goats snacking on a berry-like fruit and dancing energetically on the nearby cliffs.
Peet’s Coffee opens.
SCAA forms.
LATE
1908 Melitta Bentz makes filter from blotting paper.
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
LATE
1970s Probat develops first specialty coffee roasters.
David Schomer popularizes latte art.
FAEMA M AC HINE BY STEFANO BERTOLOTTI
1990 s
SCAA announces formation of Coffee Quality Institute.
Fresh Cup Magazine’s first issue; Coffee Fest starts; Java Jacket sells first coffee sleeve.
SCAA and SCAE combine to form SCA; the Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel gets an update.
Fresh Cup founder, Ward Barbee passes away.
1996
2006
Stumptown Coffee Roasters opens in Portland, Oregon.
1992
2016
World Coffee Research is created.
1999
2010
Third Wave (1994–2007)
Tidal Wave (2007–now)
1995
2003
2015
SCAA introduces the Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel.
Trish Rothgeb is credited with coining the term “third wave coffee” in an article in The Flamekeeper, the newsletter of the Roasters Guild.
Peet’s/ JAB Holding Company purchases Stumptown.
1998 Transfair USA launches Fair Trade Certified coffee at SCAA Expo. Transfair USA would later change its name to Fair Trade USA.
2008 Tidal wave (Millennial reinvention of coffee) begins. Values shift from coffee blends and the café as the third place to community, transparency, and single-origin supremacy.
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an alternative. I believe that alternative is found in the specialty coffee house, the espresso cart, the coffee bar. A latte and biscotti are replacing the martini and nachos. It only follows that a change in lifestyle this pronounced needs a voice. Fresh Cup Magazine is that voice. Each month in Fresh Cup you will find information about that which is drawing us together; coffee. Every issue will feature articles of discovery for the first-time specialty coffee drinker as
June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
well as entertaining and informative articles for the caffeineophile. Our award-winning writers, photographers and artists will inform, entertain, and, we hope, make your time with coffee more pleasurable. Fresh Cup is printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks, recyclable and biodegradable. We welcome your comments as to how Fresh Cup can better serve you and the specialty coffee industry. So sit back, relax, have a Fresh Cup, and enjoy. FC —Ward Barbee, Publisher
PH OTO BY JA N WEIGEL
P
eople wonder what lunacy takes over one’s mind to get them into the publishing game. When the experts say most of America is getting all the news and entertainment it needs from television, when the experts say that periodicals are yesterday’s potatoes and are shutting down all across America for lack of readership and advertising, when the experts say it must be pure ego to see your name as publisher, why do it? I can only reply: Coffee made me do it! Hot coffee. Strong brewed Sumatran. Flavorful, nutty Mexican. Steaming in a ceramic mug on a cool morning. Cold over ice on a hot afternoon. My personal love for good coffee began when I started cheffing at the Pettygrove House Restaurant in northwest Portland in 1974. Sandy Shea (whose Chez’ Shea Restaurant in Seattle’s Pike Market is now world renown), Mike Mullins, Mary Gidney and I tested, tasted, brewed and finally settled on Dave Kobo’s french roast coffee, which we would pick up weekly at his small shop in the Water Tower on Macadam Avenue. We brewed it strong in small batches. We loved it. Better yet, our customers loved it. People flew in regularly from San Francisco and Seattle to eat our food and drink our coffee. Now, almost twenty years later, all of America is waking up and smelling the coffee. Good coffee. Cappuccinos, espressos, lattes, mochas. So you see, it’s simple. As Americans, for many reasons, are shying away from traditional alcohol-oriented gathering places, they are looking for
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REFECTIONS FROM THE COFFEE COMMUNITY It seems you can’t talk about the early days of coffee without talking about WARD BARBEE and his notorious antics. We collected thoughts and stories from some of Fresh Cup’s longtime friends.
BRUCE MILLETTO, Bellissimo Coffee Advisors/Water Avenue Coffee One day out of the blue I got a call from someone I had never met: Ward Barbee. He had just published his first issue of Fresh Cup and asked to meet the following week, propositioning me to write and photograph for his new publication exclusively. I agreed and the rest is history. I met him in the small basement of Jan’s home where he was producing his new magazine. This began a long and wonderful friendship. Stories of adventures with Ward took place over many years; most, if not all, are quite unpublishable!
DON JENSEN, Bridgetown Coffee It seems like yesterday when Ward came to me about his idea of a monthly coffee magazine. My wife and I thought it was a great and much-needed idea and told him we’d back him. After a couple bottles of wine and a lot of coffee, we came up with the name Fresh Cup and registered it nationally.
MARK CRAWFORD, Modbar What a ride! Ward Barbee started this crazy magazine the same month we started Caffeine Machines in northwest Portland, about four blocks apart. Ward would pop in and compare notes and always had fascinating news. Who would have thought that it was the beginning of a whole industry?
SHERRI JOHNS, Alliance for Coffee Excellence/Cup of Excellence Ward Barbee, legendary “Coffee Carny” (and I say that with the greatest respect), knew how to put on a show, hosting barista competitions at NASCORE, when no one called themselves a barista. Ward would peddle Fresh Cup using a small wheelie and place magazines on exhibitor’s stands, sometimes without their knowledge. All of this was pre-SCAA barista competitions; Ward shared the vision of coffee as performance coupled with brewing skills and taste.
LARRY WINKLER, Torani Over the last twenty-five years, our partnership with Fresh Cup has not only given us a means to stay connected to our growing customer base, but also to the global specialty coffee and tea community. In an ever-evolving industry, Fresh Cup has remained a constant source of valuable information to stay well-informed on new trends that greatly influence our business decisions and those of our customers. In a relationship-based industry, we are proud to have been a partner from the beginning.
JON WHITESIDE, Java Jacket, and PHIL HUGGARD, Neighbors Coffee Jon and Phil both shared the story of meeting Ward at the 1992 Fancy Food Show. Jon: I cannot believe it has been twenty-five years since a very opinionated, obnoxious visionary came into my life. It was the summer of 1992 at the Fancy Food Show in New York City. We were setting up, when up walked a skinny man with gray hair and a beard. He was sporting a Hawaiian shirt, cargo shorts, and topsiders. I thought to myself, “Who is this fashion disaster?” He introduced himself as Ward Barbee, publisher of Fresh Cup Magazine, a new publication for the coffee industry. Phil: After setting up for the show, Steve Neighbors, Fred Neighbors, Jon Whiteside, and I were having a drink in a New York City bar called Barrymore’s. Suddenly this guy appears with a large stogie and strikes up a conversation. He asked us what we were doing there from Oklahoma, and we told him we were there for a trade show, that we sold gourmet coffee. What a coincidence Ward said, I’ve just started a coffee magazine called Fresh Cup out of Portland. After several cocktails, we invited him to go to dinner with us and the rest is history.
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
In many ways, the coffee industry has transformed dramatically over the last twenty-five years. In many other ways, things haven’t really changed. We spoke with some INDUSTRY VETERANS to get their take.
JOSÉ A. GAVIÑA and LEONOR GAVIÑA-VALLS,
Gaviña Coffee: The Challenges of Growing with an Industry José: One challenge in retail is the competition from large multi-national coffee roasters and well-known consumer brands that have deeper pockets to secure distribution. We were one of the first roasters to introduce whole bean coffee into supermarkets in Los Angeles. Leonor: Evolving with the times and staying ahead of the trends is important. We started with espresso at a time when few in our market knew what it was. Then, we introduced brewed coffee. After the frost in Brazil in the 1970s, we developed a line of specialty coffees to be sold to gourmet shops who sold coffee by the pound. We were one of the first on the West Coast to use a one-way valve on our bags, vacuum pack, and flush with nitrogen. We continue to bring innovation to our brands, and we study all trends in the market. Some are a better fit with our values and traditions than others.
MOLLY LAVERTY,
Farmer Brothers, Sustainability Group: The Evolving Role of Sustainability in the Coffee Industry There’s more of a focus on what’s in our food, how are people treated, what the conditions are like for the lives of the coffee producers. It used to be we’d have to push information to a customer and try to get them interested. Now, every new business request we’re seeing is asking at least one thing about the sustainability aspect of a coffee, whether it be about where the coffee comes from, how far back it can be traced, or our support of local and community efforts as a company or within our supply chains. I see that coming not just from the specialty sector, but from across the coffee industry.
JAN ANDERSON, Premium Quality Consulting: Being a Pioneer In the mid-eighties, we started a small business selling Italian coffee to restaurants and hotels in New York City. In the early days, most of our sales calls consisted of explaining how Italians liked to drink their coffee, often spelling out the words “espresso” and “cappuccino,” and then giving a technical description of the espresso extraction process so they understood that we knew what we were talking about. Our first espresso machine technician was my husband and partner. When it was time to hire a second technician, I decided to put an ad in the “help wanted” section of the New York Times. That night when I boarded the train, I took a seat next to a young couple huddled over the paper. The man suddenly laughed, “Look at this!” She joined in, reading aloud the passage that had so delighted him, “‘Wanted. Espresso machine technician!’ What in the world is that?” The couple left the train at the next stop, and it changed how I saw our work and my internal dialogue. We were pioneers!
DAN MCCLOSKEY, Premium Quality Consulting: Ushering in a New Generation of Coffee I represent the last generation of coffee’s second wave. I didn’t know it at the time, but it’s clear to me now that I witnessed the incremental change of coffee from second to third wave from the inside. I entered the business at the peak of the second wave, in Chicago in 1994. I was lucky to connect with an entrepreneur named Elaine Apollo, who had a distribution company that sold Illy coffee. By the mid- to late-nineties, Elaine had established an impressive portfolio for Illy. She had been part of the group that introduced Italian espresso to the upscale restaurant business. It was an exciting, interesting time to be in coffee. I remember meeting Doug Zell at an event in 1996 or 1997; I was blind to the shift he represented. I think I served him an espresso and he said something like “I want Intelligentsia to be the Illy of the US.” At the time, I remember thinking in a condescending way, “Huh, that guy has some nerve. The Italians wrote the book on coffee, and have been doing it for generations. What’s this dude going to do?” What I failed to understand is that he was doing something more than copying a thing from Italy. As we can see now, he and other pioneers were inventing an American coffee form. They created something different from what had come from Europe. I suppose it might be an embarrassing story—the second-wave sales guy not seeing the cool thing coming towards him until it’s run him over—but I don’t think I’d have it any other way. I’m thankful for the experience I had, and for the perspective that change brings to my work now. FC
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June 2017 Âť Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
B
arista Pro Shop began in 1994, when chocolate syrups were still packaged in Tetra Pak bricks, customers needed info sheets explaining what scones were, and Friends’ Central Perk was starting to inspire an upsurge in caffeine-fueled gathering places around the world. From what began as a simple operation to sell baked goods in the Loveland/Fort Collins area of Colorado, Barista Pro Shop has grown to be a premier supplier for coffee shops and hospitality businesses across the country. Co-owner Jay Weller reflects on the company’s days of slinging scones, the shifts in consumer trends, and being part of coffee’s growing community. This interview has been edited for clarity and space.
PH OTO C OURTESY O F BA RIS TA P RO SHOP
HOW DID THE BAKERY BUSINESS EVOLVE INTO BARISTA PRO SHOP AS IT IS TODAY?
The bakery business operated in tandem with a bed and breakfast, and the owners were looking for some additional revenue streams. We came up with a number of different things we could do, and one of them was to sell scones to local coffee houses, of which there were three. Over time, the owners invited me to buy into the business. And then I met my wife, Jennifer, and we were invited to buy the bed and breakfast owners out of the bakery, so we did. That’s when the distribution started. We had struck up a relationship with Ghirardelli—we used their ingredients in the products we were producing, and it was also a product that we could sell to coffee houses. I used to go out on Tuesdays to visit customers, and I was proud of the fact we were using Ghirardelli and buying it
directly. They said, “Oh, can you get us this powder for our mochas?” So I asked Ghirardelli, and they said we could sell whatever to whomever, all we had to do was meet the minimum orders. AND THAT WAS THE DAY YOU BECAME THE MIDDLEMAN.
Exactly. It started with Ghirardelli, then we brought in Oregon Chai— which was still independent at the time, owned by Heather Howitt—and then we brought in DaVinci syrup. And at the time, that was basically it: you had a chocolate, a chai, and a syrup, and that was all coffee houses needed. Obviously that’s changed significantly since. WHAT WERE SOME MAJOR TURNING POINTS FOR THE COMPANY?
There was an SCAA show in Denver in 1998; we showed our bakery products, and we showed DaVinci, Oregon Chai, and Ghirardelli—that’s really what got us going. Another big milestone for us was in 2004, when we launched our website. This was before it was a foregone conclusion that companies would have websites. And if companies had them, often it was just a brochure. But ours was an interactive e-commerce website. It’s a huge part of what we are, too. The website obviously has all the ease of online ordering, but it also has a lot of information on it; it’s a good introduction to Barista Pro Shop, and also to the industry. HOW HAS THE LANDSCAPE OF THE COFFEE INDUSTRY TRANSFORMED SINCE THE EARLY NINETIES?
The interesting thing to me is the consumption of coffee and how that’s changed. I can remember going to the
grocery store as a kid and the grocery store had free coffee—the store with free coffee was the one we went to. Juxtapose that with where we are today and what people will spend for a cup of coffee, that’s probably the biggest transformation. It took a big national/international retailer to do something like that. And to tell people it was OK to spend three or four dollars on a coffee drink.
I can remember going to the grocery store as a kid and the grocery store had free coffee— the store with free coffee was the one we went to. Juxtapose that with where we are today and what people will spend for a cup of coffee, that’s probably the biggest transformation.
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BIGGEST CHANGES YOU’VE SEEN IN WHAT YOU’RE SUPPLYING, AND WHO YOU SUPPLY TO?
The biggest thing is the breadth of products available, and innovation of ingredients. You’re also seeing a huge branch out of those products and ingredients being used in other applications: bar industry, restaurant industry; now you see an espresso machine everywhere. Coffee used to just be a drink consumed in the home, and now it’s gone everywhere out in the public, too. FC
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Jan has been with Fresh Cup since the beginning, when the magazine was produced in the basement of her home. She took over leadership of the company after Ward’s death, and has been fearlessly leading the publication ever since.
HOW DID YOU AND WARD MEET? A friend invited me to go camping on the Deschutes River and said, “I’ve got a friend that will pick you up.” This was totally a blind date, but I didn’t get it. Ward called me, and he said, “Hey, I FRESH CUP’S publisher Jan Weigel think it’d be nice if (right) and editor Ellie Bradley. we met before we go on the Deschutes.” I agreed to lunch, and that’s how we met. Ward was so fun. He had a magnetic personality—everyone either loved him or hated him. HOW DID THE MAGAZINE GET STARTED? Ward was working with Oregon Hospitality News. He came home one day, and Matt Brandenburg, who was one of our advertisers [with Torani], said, “Hey, what about doing a coffee magazine?” I encouraged the idea—he was making so little money, it wasn’t like he was going to make any less. We started the magazine in my daylight basement with a little Mac Plus, the cube with a little floppy disk. Ward had a relationship with Boyd's Coffee because of Oregon Hospitality News, so we went to them for advertising. We asked them to buy the back cover of the magazine for all twelve months and give us the money up front, which they did. HOW WAS THE MAGAZINE PRODUCED AT THAT TIME? We would cut and paste. Articles and ads were typed and printed, then cut and rolled out. We used a small printing company in Portland, housed in a small garage for the first few copies. Ward’s son Brad would deliver magazines to coffeehouses or anyone that was selling coffee. There was a little coffee stand in the Benson Hotel, and we took magazines there. From that, Chad Wadhwani saw the magazine at the Benson, and put his daughter into business with twelve coffee houses in China. He was inspired to get into the coffee business because of Fresh Cup Magazine. WAS THERE A TURNING POINT FROM “SURVIVAL MODE” TO HAVING STABILITY AS A COMPANY? When we brought in NASCORE (North American Specialty Coffee Retailers Exposition). That gave us the 46
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opportunity to spend more time with advertisers, building those relationships. Ward was really creative in how to get businesses going, but he wasn’t really good at keeping businesses going. With me there, helping him with the finances and controlling that part of it, we were great. The financial part of it was always me, the creative part of it was always him. Ward would also do crazy things just to get attention. At a Coffee Fest show once, he went around wearing a box wrapped in white paper, like a refrigerator—this was his way of collecting leads. He went around and let people put their stickers and promotional things on him. It was brilliant! WHAT CHALLENGES DID YOU FACE BEING A WOMAN IN THE EARLY DAYS OF THE COFFEE INDUSTRY? When we started, the coffee industry was still a good ol’ boys club. I received inappropriate invitations far too often. It was frustrating. The food industry was almost exclusively men. So much has changed for women in coffee in the last twentyfive years. The Café Femenino Foundation was started to help women and children, to give them money for the things they need—it goes right to the women so they can control it. When men see that women are starting to bring money into the village, it cuts down on the abuse that happens. If you install a well, the girls can go to school instead of spending all day getting water. It’s a really great organization; I’m happy to be a part of it. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE THOUGHTS AND FEELINGS THAT COME TO MIND WHEN YOU REFLECT ON THE LAST TWENTY-FIVE YEARS? The last twenty-five years have been completely wonderful. It’s been amazing to see all the new products come on to the market. When we first started, people said to me: “How are you going to talk about coffee after the first month?” Nobody thought there was anything to talk about. It’s been hard sometimes, the economy got so bad, and sometimes you feel defeated. But I’ve loved the relationships. It’s been a fabulous ride. Being a magazine, we get to see it all, not just one part of the industry. It’s an industry of entrepreneurs. Not all industries are like that. Coffee is a product that everyone can relate to. WHAT’S NEXT FOR FRESH CUP? I see us expanding, trying new things, and forging new relationships. I’d like to have people in place that love the industry, that want to make this company succeed, because I’m not always going to be here. FC
DECEMBER 1999, TEA ALMANAC Feature, “Bubble Tea” by Rivers Janssen “If you’ve ever sipped a bubble tea drink with tapioca balls, you know it is odd. But people are lining up around the country, especially in Asian-dominated neighborhoods, to try bubble tea and tapioca balls for the first time. It’s a legitimate trend. It’s not tea. It’s tea as ‘beverage.’”
SEPTEMBER 2002 Feature, “A Tale of Two Cafés” by Sherri Johns How menus tell your café’s story—an appeal for a broader menu, offering smoothies, frappes, and more. WHAT’S CHANGED: Menus now are pared down, simple, and curated. Consumers tend to prefer fewer choices and a minimalist aesthetic over a huge menu with abundant choices.
Feature, “Can Fair-Trade Coffee Broaden Its Boundaries?” by Mark Pendergrast “By its existing definition, fair-trade certification does not cover the majority of the people who tend seedlings, prune trees, bend to dig irrigation ditches, balance on hillsides to harvest coffee, supervise beneficios, or hand-sort beans. These people are just as affected by the price crisis as workers on fair-trade certified farms, and they are facing the same painstaking challenges of eking out a living to feed themselves and their families. Why shouldn’t they be included in the fair-trade model?”
SEPTEMBER 2003 Feature, “Ecotourism: How Roasters and Retailers Can Complete the Seed-to-Cup Cycle” by Karen Foley Making the case for roasters and retailers to visit countries of origin.
AUGUST 2002 Feature, “Hooked on Gadgets: New Toys for the Coffee & Tea Gearhead” by the editors of Fresh Cup Magazine The Disposable Beverage Carafe: “This innovate beverage carafe offers specialty coffee shops a new way to safely transport hot liquid. The body and spout are made from post-consumer materials and can be recycled.”
Feature, “Master Your Domain: 10 Steps to Successful Coffeehouse Management” by Don Holly 1) Be an expert 2) Defend high quality standards 3) Be passionate about your concept 4) Define your culture 5) Attract good people 6) Train, train, train 7) Give your team the tools it needs 8) Observe and reward 9) Attend to the individuals on your team 10) Give yourself time to think WHAT’S CHANGED: This list stands up—though an updated list would be wise to encourage digital media engagement.
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JUNE 2005 “Trends in Coffee: Stabilizing the Chain” “Complex dynamics within the market create instabilities that aren’t easy to predict or prevent. The Oxfam report identifies what it sees as the six most pressing needs of coffee farmers: price stability, access to finance, market access, technical assistance in quality improvement and diversification, organizational strengthening, and participation in international debate. In light of these challenges, more specialty coffee companies are making commitments to sustainable sourcing.”
“Trends in Coffee: Competition from C-Stores?” “Out with instant cappuccino and bland, burned brewed coffee. In with high-end espresso equipment and the latest brewers. The C-store image makeover is a gamble worth taking.” WHAT’S CHANGED: Portland, Oregon’s Mini Mini is proof this article had it right; convenience stores are changing. Mini Mini is a convenience store serving Coava coffee, and stocking high-end craft beers, wines, and snacks.
“Cold Brew: Revival of an Ancient Innovation” “It is estimated that more than 1,000 cafés are using cold-brewed coffee concentrate.” WHAT’S CHANGED: Cold-brew coffee has become its own category: as an in-café beverage, and on retail shelves as a ready-to-drink product.
“Cyberian Coffee: A 2005 Overview of Online Coffee Resources” Sites mentioned: Specialty Coffee Association of America, International Coffee Association, National Coffee Association, TransFair USA, forums, blogs (The Coffee Odyssey; EspressoLab; Bread, Coffee, Chocolate, Yoga; Coffee and Caffeine Blog; Vancouver Coffee). WHAT’S CHANGED: To give an overview of the online resources available to coffee enthusiasts today would take years to compile and too many pages to count. TransFair USA has become Fair Trade USA, and most of those blogs have either disappeared, or haven’t been updated since 2009.
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SEPTEMBER 2002 Unfiltered, “In Coffee Police We Trust” by the editors of Fresh Cup Magazine Piece about the coffee police in the United Kingdom who go around to coffee shops and post negative reviews online. Clearly written during the age of the surly barista.
JANUARY 2003 Feature, “Certified Specialty” by Karen Foley Defining specialty before Q grading was established: “Today, the coffee industry finds itself in a fateful situation: specialty coffee is often not as special as it should be.”
SEPTEMBER 2003 Business Basics, “Internet Marketing for the Coffee or Tea Retailer” by Bruce Milletto “Any independent specialty coffee or tea retailer would be remiss in underestimating the power of the World Wide Web.”
OCTOBER 2003 Feature, “They Can Do It! How Women are Rebuilding Our Industry” by Lisa Hoashi “It was a different world,”[Erna] Knutsen says, “and it still is in some ways. It was not a fun time, but what the hell, I have a sense of humor and I had a good time.” For the most part, Knutsen didn’t really think about being one of the only women in the industry in the 1960s. Her success, she emphasizes, has not been because she acted like a man. “Making friends in the business—that’s what’s important.”
APRIL 2005 Feature, “The Passion of the Pull: A Candid Look at Espresso Machines and their Owners” by Robert Barnett ‘Nuff said.
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A NOTE FROM THE PHOTOGRAPHER: I spent a couple years in Phoenix, Arizona, becoming acquainted with specialty coffee and the community that comes along with it. Phoenix is a growing city where creatives have a place to contribute to the culture and receive support. IN THESE SHOPS I FOUND FRIENDSHIP AND HOSPITALITY AND BEGAN TO SHAPE MY PLACE IN THE INDUSTRY.
BEN CARPENTER at Crêpe Bar.
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CRÊPE BAR PAREDES: Crêpe Bar was one of my first experiences, not only in specialty coffee and food, but in finding camaraderie.
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hef and owner Jeff Kraus’s original concept for Crêpe Bar was a culinary-focused food cart, which went brick-and-mortar in 2012 to create a fastcasual restaurant with a higher standard for friendly service and attention to detail. As part of this transformation the coffee bar was added, designed by local barista legend Jason Calhoon. This made Crêpe Bar the city’s only café specializing in both coffee and food. Crêpe Bar exclusively serves Heart Coffee Roasters—the only shop to do so in Phoenix. They carry the same values as Heart for building relationships with their consumers and farmers, as well as delivering a product with attention to detail. And you won’t just find Heart at the coffee bar pulled through their Nuova Simonelli—it’s infused into the brunch menu as well, in dishes like the Grand Prix: coffee crêpe, pork belly, espresso maple syrup, crème fraîche, and an egg. Heart coffee is used in the batter of the crêpe, in the brine for the pork belly, and in the syrup. Kraus explains: “We take pride in making things from scratch. It’s how it should be, right?”
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CARTEL PAREDES: Cartel had long been one of my favorite places to drink a cappuccino and meet people, so I was excited to join the company as a barista at their location at the Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (Terminal 4). The shop became a piece of home to me. Working here, we often heard from customers that they planned their layover in Phoenix so they could stop by for specialty coffee during their travels.
LISETTE BARBERA is ready to help you at Cartel Coffee Lab’s airport location.
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JACOB MAERTZ would love to make you a latte.
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hat started as a trip to a specialty coffee farm in Huehuetenango, Guatemala, in 2007, became the concept of Cartel Coffee Lab: a place to bring quality beverages to Arizona. Co-owners Jason and Amy Silberschlag, and roaster Paul Haworth followed with a trip to Southern California to purchase a used roaster and deliver it to the flagship Tempe location, where it still abides.Â
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The Silberschlags were both experienced baristas and in 2009, Jason placed second in the Southwest Regional Barista Championship. The vision for Cartel grew: to establish the company’s place on the national specialty coffee map, and to become a trusted source for high-quality roasted coffee.
ALEXANDRA NICHOLLS brews a pour-over.
Cartel now operates six locations in Arizona. The Phoenix Airport shop opened in 2012, marking one of the first independently owned specialty shops in an airport. The shop only opened after agreeing it would be staffed by their own baristas, and not by a third party agency. Like all their locations, the store offers customers an espresso, tea, and filter coffee menu (fueled by a Fetco batch brewer and backed by a slow bar comprised of Aeropress, V60, and Chemex).
From the planning stages of Cartel through today, the partnerships with specialty coffee farms are highlighted in Cartel’s direct-from-source offerings: beans sourced from friendships built over meals shared with farmers in Central and South America.
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FUTURO PAREDES: Futuro opened in 2016, toward the end of my time as a Phoenician. It was where I’d run into friends, or a local barista grabbing coffee on their day off. My beverage of choice was their espresso tonic.
WILLIAM KENNEDY is a barista at Futuro. Cascara con Topo Chico, anyone?
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offee has always been on my mind,” says Futuro owner Jorge Ignacio Torres. “To me it was about being able to present everything that I loved under one roof. It started with hair, then art, and then music. I didn’t have any coffee experience beforehand other than loving the product.”
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WILLIAM KENNEDY prepares an espresso at Futuro.
JENSON METCALF is a barista at Cartel Coffee Lab and a customer at Futuro (shown here).
Futuro sits inside a creative space known as Palabra in the Phoenix Roosevelt Art District, which houses a salon and art gallery in addition to the coffee bar. The gallery showcases a rotation of art from local artists; the space itself is the collective genius of Chuckie Duff, local architect Artie Vigil, and lead contractor Rob Withem. Futuro is not for those “looking for artificial flavoring and comfy couches,” Torres explains. He designed the menu “with beverages that pay homage to the true flavors of the bean itself. You’re able to taste and appreciate those flavors of the earth the beans grow from—it’s like wine.” Torres collaborated with Harlin Glovacki and William Kennedy for equipment selection, including a La Marzocco
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Linea 2, Mahlkönig K30, and Mahlkönig EK 43. The bar features coffee from Vancouver, British Columbia’s 49th Parallel, in a drink menu presented in Spanish—a small detail where Torres can show respect to his culture and mother. The whole space is meant to be an experience: from the architecture, to the coffee and art, to the weekly curated music playlist. Torres carefully selected every detail, down to the milk and ceramics, the artisan toast by Heft Co.— topped with preserves from Sqirl—and the pastries from leDinersaur. Each detail is meant to complement another. “The overall goal with creating this whole space was to inspire,” Torres says, “to see that anything is possible with passion.”
PROVISION PAREDES: Set in the east valley of Phoenix, Provision offers specialty coffee where it’s hard to find, and was always the most inviting and welcoming space when I’d stop in craving a honey lavender latte.
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wners Lawrence Jarvey and Daniel Suh began Provision Coffee five years ago as a wholesale coffee roaster, focused on the goal of building community through quality coffee. The company prioritizes on long-term relationships with coffee brokers and farmers, built by traveling to
origin where Jarvey and Suh aim to understand the farmers and their communities. Provision makes these relationships personal, so they can better address specific needs, such as cows for the farmers in Burundi, and scholarships for the children of their farmers in Guatemala.
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PROVISION OWNERS Lawrence Jarvey (left) and Daniel Suh (right), mingle with patrons from behind the bar.
LAWRENCE JARVEY prepares a signature drink.
As roasters, the team at Provision develops their roasts just enough to highlight the notes of chocolate that balance the beans’ natural fruit acidity. The bar is staffed by baristas who complete an extensive training program based on SCA standards, using top-quality equipment, such as a La Marzocco GS3 (soon to be upgraded to a two-group Linea Classic AV), alongside a Mahlkönig Guatemala and K30 grinders, and a
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Baratza Vario-W grinder for a Curtis Gold Cup brewer. On the menu, accompanying traditional coffee beverages, you’ll find signature coffee drinks inspired by classic cocktail recipes, including aromatic bitters and garnishes, and both nitro cold-brew coffee and sparkling white tea on tap. Food offerings include pastries from local bakery Pistol Whipped, with a full menu of artisanal toasts using Noble bread. FC
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EARLY MORNING view of the waterfront in Cape Town with Table Mountain in the background.
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ape Town has it all. Watched over by the iconic Table Mountain, it has more beaches, hiking trails, surf breaks, and fishing spots than any of its four million residents could possibly need—all within city limits. It’s a thriving urban environment which boasts South Africa’s best restaurants, bars, and clothing boutiques. With around fifty roasteries in the city itself, it’s also the epicenter of a nascent coffee revolution.
IN THE BEGINNING Before 2006, “there was no decent coffee in Cape Town. Everyone believed that something good had to come from somewhere else. Posh people were proudly drinking brand name coffee that had spent months getting out here on a ship,” Joel Singer, cofounder of Origin Coffee Roasting says, reminiscing with a laugh. Singer grew up in Canada, but didn’t develop an appreciation for artisanal food and beverage until col-
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lege, during a year abroad in France. He fell in love with the country’s commitment to quality food and drink. “The French would get excited about this one plum that only grows in one
he prepared Singer an espresso— what Singer calls the first decent espresso he’d had in South Africa. As their friendship developed over their shared love of coffee, food, and
It’s a thriving urban environment which boasts South Africa’s best restaurants, bars, and clothing boutiques. With around fifty roasteries in the city itself, it’s also the epicenter of a nascent coffee revolution. little town and is only ripe for one week every year,” he says. Singer eventually found himself in Cape Town with a young family and no fixed agenda. He teamed up with David Donde to launch Origin Coffee Roasting. When they met, Donde was operating a hotel, where
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wine, plans for the roasting company began to coalesce. “I was passionate about roasting the best coffee in the world,” Singer says, “and David wanted to serve the best coffee in the world.” Singer and Donde launched Origin knowing very little about coffee,
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ORIGIN COFFEE ROASTING was started by Joel Singer (left) in 2006.
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and even less about how to roast it. Donde attributes his barista skills to “brute force methods”—and lots of milk sacrificed in the name of latte art practice. They began to experiment on a five-kilogram roaster, testing roast profiles and various origins to find what worked. But even as the coffee started tasting good, getting wholesale customers on board presented a new wave of challenges. “We had to convince everyone—consumers, restaurants, hotels—that they didn’t have a clue” Singer says. Recognizing the need for education led Singer and Donde to start big— with a roastery, a barista academy, and a café. Customers would pass by the roaster as they walked in the door, exposing them to more of the process than the Cape Town community was accustomed to. “I was the first person you’d speak to when you came in,” Singer says. At the time, their approach was groundbreaking and helped the brand gain traction and a loyal customer base.
Origin roasts about fifty different coffees every year and on any given day patrons can drink twelve of them at their alternative brewing methods bar. Now, eleven years later, Origin is still at the cutting edge of everything coffee in Cape Town. They roast about fifty different coffees every year and on any given day, patrons can drink twelve of them at their alternative brewing methods bar. They have locations in both Cape Town and Johannesburg and their coffee is served at many independent outlets nationwide. Origin also helped set up the Specialty Coffee Association of South Africa, and has had four national barista champions over the years. Many of the big players in the South African coffee scene have a stint at Origin on their résumés—at last count, they had trained 2,500 baristas.
KIWI DELUXE One of these Origin alumni is Judd Francis, the burly, bearded Kiwi who co-owns Deluxe Coffeeworks. He grew up in Wellington, the coffee center of New Zealand, and began working in cafés at age sixteen. “After school I got a job in a roastery and then, like all Kiwis, I went traveling. And everywhere I went, I ended up behind the coffee machine,” Francis says. When Francis washed up in Cape Town he could see there was a huge gap in the market. “Here was a gorgeous city with amazing restaurants and incredible weather that was practically screaming for good coffee.” Francis worked briefly with Singer at Origin, but he was up front about his intentions to start his own thing. “In 2009-ish I met Carl Wessel, over a few beers. Carl was keen to get out of the film industry and I was looking for something to do with the rest of my life. The business was founded on a handshake.” They started roasting in Wessel’s backyard, and within months they’d opened their first shop, a tiny spot in the center of town. “After about two years it got pretty intense,” Francis says. “We were doing two tons a month
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REBEL YELL: Co-owner Judd Francis (top left) and the inked baristas of Deluxe Coffeeworks.
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on a five-kilogram roaster, all in a 190-square-foot space that also served coffee.” At that point they moved to their roasting operation to its current location and bought a fifteen-kilogram Giesen. Deluxe’s core business has always been wholesaling coffee but they’ve opened a surprising number of cafés along the way. “We just keep getting offered these amazing spaces,” Francis explains. “It seems stupid to say no.” That said, they keep their retail outlets surprisingly simple: no food, no Wi-Fi—just coffee. And lots of it. In addition to servicing around 200 wholesale customers, Deluxe has a thriving online store, six coffee shops in Cape Town and the surrounding areas, and a recently opened satellite roastery and café in neighboring Namibia. They’ve also helped a luxury hotel group based in Mauritius set up its own roastery, a project which they’ve been heavily involved in for the last four years. “We flew up to Jo’burg to pitch the idea to all these suits sitting around a boardroom table. We had a PowerPoint presentation and everything,” Francis says, “but we’d also rented a GS3 for the day. After a few slides we just thought ‘stuff it,’ let’s make them some coffee. They lapped it up.” This cheeky attitude, coupled with a serious taste for hard work, has allowed Deluxe to thrive in a very competitive market. “Look at us: we’re all covered in tattoos, ride motorbikes, and play in bands,” Francis says. “We drink good coffee by day and too much beer at night. Coffee doesn’t have to be served on a doily, you know.”
opened a small coffee shop, but soon she had two, then three shops. “I was sick of working for someone else and I saw an opportunity. Coffee was my wife’s main commodity, so it made financial sense to roast it ourselves,” he says. “And it helped that I’ve always been a coffee addict.” Bloem and his partners started small, roasting their coffee at a small bakery they owned several hours from Cape Town. But one day, on his morning bicycle ride, Bloem spotted an empty retail space just around the corner from his house in the beachside suburb of Sea Point.
NEW KID ON THE BLOCK With ten branches in the city and counting, it’s hard to believe Bootlegger Coffee Company opened its first outlet less than four years ago. Even more amazing is the fact CEO Pieter Bloem hasn’t had to lean on any external investment to achieve this meteoric rise. Bloem first got into the service industry when he bought and ran a very popular pizza franchise. At about the same time, his wife
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BOOTLEGGER COFFEE COMPANY has ten locations and counting. CEO Pieter Bloem (center, left) started roasting four years ago.
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“After all those years in the restaurant business, I wanted to leave food behind,” remembers Bloem, “But the place was far too big for just a coffee roaster, so we were kind of forced into making it a restaurant as well.” These days, Bootlegger stores are open from 6 a.m. to midnight every day, and they serve up innovative pastries, breakfasts, lunches, and dinners—including the Ice-ssant, a croissant filled with soft-serve ice cream, and the recently featured Scram-bowl, egg scramble bowls filled with sausage, cheese, and onion. Bootlegger also boasts a full wine list and bar to accompany their signature coffees. Bootlegger’s café and roastery are run as separate businesses: half of the roasted coffee is sold to Bootlegger cafés at market-related prices and the other half to external clients. He puts it simply: “The roastery needs to wash its face and the cafés have to be profitable.” Bootlegger will have four more Cape Town stores by the end of the year as well as one in London, England. They are looking at expanding their footprint to Johannesburg and Durban, South Africa, and plan to franchise the brand into other African markets. “Whatever happens, we’ll always maintain 100 percent control of the Cape Town stores,” Bloem says.
THE PERFECTIONISTS The husband-and-wife team behind Espresso Lab Microroasters, Renato Correia and Helene Vaerlien, focus on quality in smaller quantities. “It’s not that we don’t want to grow, but quality has always been our main focus, and this is easier to achieve in small quantities,” Vaerlien explains. Vaerlien’s roots are in Sweden, and Espresso Lab is undeniably inspired by Nordic coffee culture, among other influences. Correia worked at an Italianowned café in Johannesburg in the eighties, and both he and Vaerlien spent years traveling the world, experiencing different coffee cultures. “At first we wanted to open a café,” says Renato, “But then we realized that to have full control, we had to roast our own.” From day one, they have been both a café and a roastery and they have never served any food. “We’d rather up-sell coffee, the one thing we’re passionate about,” Correia explains. All milk-based drinks served in the café are made using a blend of three single-estate coffees, while anyone who orders a black drink is in for a singleorigin treat. Staff are all dedicated black-coffee drinkers: no milk, no sugar. “We brew coffee together every morning and then we talk about it. It’s important to have a shared vocabulary that we use when talking to customers.” “When we opened, light roasts were not the norm in Cape Town,” remembers Correia, who still roasts every single batch of coffee that comes out of the shop. “Customers had to get used to the upfront fruity flavors. And to paying higher prices.” But Vaerlien and Correia had chosen their location carefully: being nextdoor to Cape Town’s busiest outdoor market meant that they could pay the rent based on Saturday trade alone. This allowed them to forego spending money on marketing, affording them more funds to buy top-quality coffee and equipment. Espresso Lab has a very loyal midweek customer base as well as busy weekends, and their coffee is served in seven cafés around the western Cape, as well as at the head office of one of South Africa’s leading investment funds. “We could supply loads more places,” says Vaerlien, “But we have certain standards when it comes to equipment and training that put a lot of people off.” Vaerlien says quality equipment allows them to share their techniques and brewing protocols and enables them to serve customers a better, more interesting product. Espresso drinks are made using La Marzocco GB5s and
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Mazzer Robur grinders, while filter coffees are made using a Marco SP9 hot water tower and a Mahlkönig EK 43. “Most of the baristas on our staff already have basic barista skills when they start here, such as basic espresso extraction and milk aeration technique, so our ongoing training is more about refining their sensory skills, learning about the coffees we serve, and customer service,” Vaerlien says. Espresso Lab’s customer-oriented service style means providing education to some guests, but allowing others to enjoy their coffee without any additional information. “We don’t force information onto our customers,” Vaerlien says. “However, when someone is interested, we share our knowledge. The more the customer knows about the coffee, the more they can enjoy it and take something home from the experience.”
THE WAY FORWARD Cape Town’s coffee scene has come a long way in the last ten years. As for the future? The current business leaders are convinced the scene will continue to grow as consumers become increasingly focused on quality. Says Origin’s Singer, “The first ten years were about getting people to figure out the difference between good coffee and bad coffee. Right now, anyone who turns green coffee into brown is considered an artisan roaster, but that’s going to change.” As consumers demand better quality coffee, restaurateurs and café owners will have to step up their game. Focus on provenance is likely to increase, inspiring new levels of quality and diversity in the café experience. Espresso Lab’s Correia says there still aren’t many cafés specializing in serving great coffee. “People here think that to have good coffee you have to roast your own. There aren’t many cafés around that buy top product and serve it really well.” But the market has taken flight and shows no signs of slowing down. “One thing’s for sure,” says Bloem of Bootlegger, “People love coffee. And that will never change.” FC ESPRESSO LAB co-owners Helene Vaerlien and Renato Correia (top, left) and the baristas moving the Cape Town coffee industry forward.
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ADAM’S PEAK: Overlooking tea gardens with Adam’s Peak in the distance. Located in the hill country of southwestern Sri Lanka, Adam’s Peak (7,360 feet) is one of Sri Lanka’s most striking and celebrated natural landmarks.
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ri Lanka celebrates the 150th anniversary of Ceylon tea this year. This beautiful island country, formerly known by its colonial name of Ceylon, is home to hundreds of tea estates. On this island located off the southern tip of India, the weather is beautiful year-round and attracts both tourists and tea industry pros. Now that I have been there, I can almost taste the terroir, the indigenous fruits, and picture the beautiful weather in every delicious sip of tea from each of the seven specialty tea growing regions of Sri Lanka.
While there is organically grown tea in Sri Lanka, conventionally grown teas must also pass the board’s stringent rules on chemical content—which has given the country a strong reputation for “clean” tea.
The climate is tea-friendly all year and provides two distinct plucking periods, which differs slightly from other tea growing countries. The quality standards for all teas exported from the country are regulated by the Sri Lanka Tea Board. While there is organically grown tea in Sri Lanka, conventionally grown teas must also pass the board’s stringent rules on chemical content—which has given the country a strong reputation for “clean” tea. The Ceylon tea industry emphasizes environmentally responsible, sustainable, ozone-friendly practices, and their efforts to produce high-quality, clean tea are evident through testing. Working in the tea industry, you immerse yourself into learning about the farmers, manufacturing processes, best handling of your products, and sales techniques. But making a trip to origin connects you to tea in a more profound way. After spending time in Sri Lanka, I’m smitten.
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June 2017 Âť Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
IN THE CUP: A wonderful cup of tea from Mlesna, a company with over twenty years of experience providing superior quality teas.
TEA TASTING Established in 1976, the Sri Lanka Tea Board regulates the quality and sets standards of all tea exported from Sri Lanka through testing and certification. The board also promotes Ceylon tea all over the world, including in the United States. THE DIVISIONS RESPONSIBLE FOR TESTING INCLUDE: 1) The Tea Tasting Unit, which examines samples provided by traders, exporters, and others to ensure their quality meets the standards necessary to qualify them for the famous lion logo that identifies pure Ceylon tea. The unit is made up of a panel of expert independent tasters. 2) The Analytical Laboratory, which tests and certifies tea samples in terms of chemical, pesticide, and microbial standards.
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LOOLECONDERA ESTATE is Sri Lanka’s first tea estate, planted by British colonist James Taylor in 1867. Taylor was the first to plant tea in Sri Lanka after coffee leaf rust wiped out the country’s formerly successful coffee industry.
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
ODE TO JAMES TAYLOR at Loolecondera (left). The remains of the equipment used by Taylor are on display at the Ceylon Tea Museum in Hantane, two miles from Kandy (above).
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P
TEA WITHERING
at Halppewatte Tea Factory, one of the largest producers of tea in Sri Lanka’s Uva Province. Most black tea in Sri Lanka is manufactured in the traditional method using machines to mimic age-old by-hand methods. Each batch is withered and then put into rollers that bruise and shape the tea prior to oxidation. The leaf is then heated to halt the process. Orthodox tea manufacturing preserves the integrity and full flavor of the leaf. This method is more expensive and time consuming compared to the cut-tear-curl process of manufacturing.
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
ersonal exploration and study through tasting is important for understanding the variety of flavor profiles of the seven regions of Ceylon tea. Based on many factors including terroir, low-grown, mid-grown, and high-grown teas each possess distinct flavor characteristics. Some teas are best with milk and sugar while other lighter teas are best on their own. The regions are often mentioned in packaging to define their distinct flavor, color, and aroma. To qualify for the special, legal distinction of Ceylon tea, and to use the representative lion logo that goes with it, the tea must not only be grown, manufactured, and packed entirely in Sri Lanka, it must also conform to strict quality standards and cannot be mixed or blended with tea from any other part of the world. Overseas importers and distributors cannot use the logo on their packaging, but if the contents are 100 percent Sri Lankan, the name Ceylon tea may be used. Sri Lanka is seeking more growth in the US market, specifically through smaller tea houses—those who specialize in tea, have a depth of knowledge about tea, and have a strong appreciation for high quality tea. For consumers, purchasing through small tea houses will offer more ways to enjoy the many varieties of Ceylon tea and opportunities to build an appreciation for it as one of the cleanest teas available on the market. Learn more about the 150th anniversary of Ceylon tea and special events planned throughout the year, and search for exporters and brokers through the Sri Lanka Tea Board website at pureceylontea.com FC
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Counter INTELLIGENCE CIAO, MILANO October 20–24 marks the fortieth annual HostMilano—the international hospitality exhibition. For twenty-four editions, Host has been showcasing the many facets of coffee. This year, the event offers visitors an overview of the many ways coffee is seen in the retail and foodservice markets. More than 480 companies from thirty-seven countries will be represented, with strong showings from Italy, Germany, Spain, and the United States. host.fieramilano.it
H-2-FLOW
TAP THAT
Hydrogen-infused water has pur-
The Maple Guild turns freshly
ported benefits as an antioxidant
tapped maple sap into syrup
and anti-inflammatory agent, mak-
in ninety seconds by using a
ing it a favorite of some health and
steam-crafting process. Their
wellness enthusiasts. HFactor’s hy-
syrup, available in three fla-
drogen-infused water gets a snazzy
vors—Salted Caramel, Vanilla
packaging upgrade to cater to the
Bean, and Bourbon Barrel—is
lifestyle of their active consumers.
less processed than other syrups on the market, and
The Hydro-Pack now features an
is a great way to naturally sweeten your morning joe.
easy-open twist off spout, replacing the previous “rip
mapleguild.com
and sip” top. hfactorwater.com
POURFECTION COFFEE
HAIL HYDRO
Created by a microbiologist and
Hydro Flask has launched their drink-
personal trainer team, Pour-
ware category, comprised of twenty-
fection is an unflavored coffee
two- and thirty-two-ounce tumblers
creamer designed to increase
and a ten-ounce rocks glass. The
focus and reduce the jitters as-
tumblers feature Hydro Flask’s pro-
sociated with caffeine intake.
prietary TempShield insulation and
Powered by medium chain triglycerides from coco-
are crafted to fit in most cup holders. All three
nut oil, theanine, 5-HTP, and vitamin B12, Pourfection
cups in the drinkware collection come with an in-
claims to increase focus and decrease stress, while
sulated press-in lid, adding additional temperature
adding body to your coffee. pourfectioncoffee.com
control for beverages, and comfort while sipping. hydroflask.com
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
» People & Products «
THE ARTFUL HOPPER Espresso Parts has partnered with Torr Toys, an international designer, manufacturer, and developer of coffee tools, to provide hand-blown glass hoppers to their customers. The hoppers are made with a combination of hand-blown glass with a hand-polished, high-gloss finish adapter and lid, and mounted with food-grade silicone. These beautiful hoppers can be used with Mahlkönig, Mazzer, Macap, Compak, and Elektra grinders. espressoparts.com
‘SRPO PROBLEM
GET SILI
Artpresso Design has released
GoSili has launched a silicone to-
a new coffee tamper that is
go coffee cup. GoSili is microwave
both an adjustable distribution
and dishwasher safe, even with the
tool and tamper. The goal of
embedded stainless steel ring that
the Solo Tamp is to make work-
prevents the cup from collapsing in
flow more efficient by replacing two separate tools
on itself. The planet-friendly cup is
with one that is ergonomically designed and easy to
endlessly reusable, nearly indestruc-
adjust and use. The Solo Tamp reduces downward
tible, and plastic, BPA, and phthalate free—an every-
pressure during distribution and guarantees consis-
day alternative to paper and plastic disposable cups.
tent tamping, reducing the possibility of channeling
silikids.com
and ensuring better espresso. artpressodesign.com
33 ROAST PROFILES
NAPA MEETS NAPOLI
33 Books Co., creators of the
Molinari Private Reserve’s (MPR) wine-
popular pocket-sized tasting
infused coffee began as an experimen-
journals, recently released a
tal collaboration in California’s Napa
roast log. Titled 33 Roasts, the
Valley, combining the region’s two most
new book includes spaces on each page to note key
beloved beverages. Each coffee blend
milestones throughout the roasting process, from
(available regular or decaffeinated) is
time and temperature of first crack to finish, and
made by rehydrating coffee beans to a specific liquid
minute-by-minute changes along the way. Once com-
percentage using a red wine created exclusively for
pleted, roasters can create a visual roast profile in the
MPR by local Napa wineries, then drying and roast-
charting area, a feature previously reserved for users
ing the beans. molinariprivatereserve.com
of expensive roasting software. 33books.com
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Trade Show & Events CALENDAR JUNE
SEPTEMBER JUNE 7-11 LET’S TALK COFFEE Kigali, Rwanda letstalkcoffee.org JUNE 9-11 COFFEE FEST Chicago, Illinois coffeefest.com JUNE 11 COFFEE & TEA FESTIVAL NYC: ICED New York, New York coffeeandteafestival.com JUNE 12-15 WORLD TEA EXPO Las Vegas, Nevada worldteaexpo.com JUNE 13-15 WORLD OF COFFEE Budapest, Hungary worldofcoffee-budapest.com JUNE 13-15 WORLD LATTE ART CHAMPIONSHIP Budapest, Hungary worldlatteart.org
J U LY JULY 6-9 CAFE SHOW CHINA Beijing, China cafeshow.com.cn/huagang/hgcoffceen/ index.htm
AUGUST AUGUST 27-29 WESTERN FOODSERVICE & HOSPITALITY EXPO Los Angeles, California westernfoodexpo.com AUGUST 29-SEPTEMBER 1 COFFEEXIRAN Tehran, Iran http://en.coffeexiran.com/
SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER 10-12 FLORIDA RESTAURANT & LODGING SHOW Orlando, Florida flrestaurantandlodgingshow.com
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June 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine turns 25 years old!
SEPTEMBER 13-16 GOLDEN BEAN NORTH AMERICA Portland, Oregon goldenbean.com SEPTEMBER 21-24 ISTANBUL COFFEE FESTIVAL Istanbul, Turkey istanbulcoffeefestival.com SEPTEMBER 23-24 COFFEE & CHOCOLATE EXPO San Juan, Puerto Rico coffeeandchocolateexpo.com SEPTEMBER 24-25 CANADIAN COFFEE & TEA SHOW Toronto, Canada coffeeteashow.ca SEPTEMBER 30-OCTOBER 1 NORTHWEST TEA FESTIVAL Seattle, Washington nwteafestival.com
OCTOBER OCTOBER 9-12 MOSCOW COFFEE & TEA EXPO Moscow, Russia https://pirexpo.com/en OCTOBER 12-13 ALLEGRA WORLD COFFEE PORTAL CEO FORUM New York, New York allegraceoforum.com OCTOBER 12-16 CHINA XIAMEN INTERNATIONAL TEA FAIR Xiamen, Fujian Province, China http://teafair.com.cn/en OCTOBER 13-15 NEW YORK COFFEE FESTIVAL New York, New York newyorkcoffeefestival.com OCTOBER 13-15 COFFEE FEST Portland, Oregon coffeefest.com OCTOBER 20-24 HOST Milan, Italy host.fieramilano.it
2017 Coffee & Tea Trade Shows, Classes & Competitions
OCTOBER OCTOBER 25-27 INTERNATIONAL COFFEE WEEK Belo Horizonte, Brazil http://semanainternacionaldocafe.com. br/en/
N OV E M B E R NOVEMBER 3-12 KONA COFFEE CULTURAL FESTIVAL Kona, Hawaii konacoffeefest.com NOVEMBER 4-5 COFFEE & TEA FESTIVAL PHILLY Philadelphia, Pennsylvania coffeeandteafestival.com/philly NOVEMBER 9-12 CAFE SHOW SEOUL Seoul, Korea cafeshow.com NOVEMBER 9-12 SINTERCAFE Herradura, Costa Rica www.sintercafe.com NOVEMBER 12-13 HX: THE HOTEL EXPERIENCE ROOMS TO RESTAURANTS New York, New York thehotelexperience.com NOVEMBER 16-18 WORLD TEA & COFFEE EXPO Mumbai, India worldteacoffeeexpo.com
DECEMBER DECEMBER 3-6 INTERNATIONAL COFFEE & CHOCOLATE EXHIBITION Riyadh, Saudi Arabia coffeechoco-expo.com DECEMBER 14-16 INTERNATIONAL COFFEE & TEA FESTIVAL Dubai, United Arab Emirates coffeeteafest.com
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ADVERTISER Index Go to freshcup.com/resources/fresh-cup-advertisers to view the Advertiser Index and the websites listed below. ADVERTISER Art of Tea
CONTACT 213.493.6518
ONLINE wholesale.artoftea.com
Barista Pro Shop
866.776.5288
baristaproshop.com/ad/fresh
Bodum
800.232.6386
bodum.com
Brewista
888.538.8683
mybrewista.com
Cappuccine
800.511.3127
cappuccine.net
Caravan Coffee
503.538.7365
caravancoffee.com
69
The Chai Co.
888.922.2424
chaico.com
47
Coffee Fest
425.295.3300
coffeefest.com
Coffee Holding Co.
800.458.2233
coffeeholding.com
83
Coffee Planet
310.880.5337
coffeeplanet.com
67
Curtis
800.421.6150
wilburcurtis.com
Custom Cup Sleeves
888-672-4096
customcupsleeves.com
85
Descamex
844.472.8429
descamex.com
58
Ditting
810.367.7125
ditting.com
49
Divinitea
518.347.0689
divinitea.com
89
Finum
49.407.34240
finum.com
57
Fresh Cup Magazine
503.236.2587
freshcup.com
Ghirardelli Chocolate
800.877.9338
ghirardelli.com/professional
Golden Bean
310.266.2827
goldenbean.com
75
Gosh That’s Good! Brand
888.848.GOSH (4674)
goshthatsgood.com
15
Grandstand Glassware + Apparel
800.767.8951
egrandstand.com/coffee
91
Haelssen & Lyon
212.488.1674
haelssen-lyon.com
24
Harney & Sons
888.427.6398
harney.com
34
Holy Kakow
503.484.8316
holykakow.com
29
Java Jacket
800.208.4128
javajacket.com
67
Klean Kanteen
800.767.3173
kleankanteen.com
58
Malabar Gold Espresso
650.366.5453
malabargoldespresso.com
25
Mambo Coffee Company
255.782.379.055
mambocoffeeafrica.com
Monin Gourmet Flavorings
855.FLAVOR1 (352.8671)
monin.com
Mr. Espresso
510.287.5200
mrespresso.com
Oregon Chai
888.874.CHAI (2424)
kerryfoodservice.com/brands/oregon-chai
Organic Products Trading Co
888.881.4433
optco.com
Pacific Foods
503.692.9666
pacificfoods.com/foodservice
Promac
844.776.6221
promac-usa.com
73
PumpSkins
877.994.4600
pumpskins.com
34
RetailMugs.com
970.222.9559
retailmugs.com
85
Routin 1883
800.467.7142
1883.com
11
SelbySoft
800.454.4434
selbysoft.com
17
SerendipiTea
888.TEA.LIFE (832.5433)
serendipitea.com
85
Service Ideas
800.328.4493
serviceideas.com
81
Smartfruit
800.801.7330
drinksmartfruit.com
21
Sonofresco
360.757.2800
sonofresco.com
55
StixToGo
800.666.6655
royalpaper.com
29
Straw Propeller Gourmet Foods
855.507.8729
strawpropeller.com
85
TeaSource
855.320.4832
teasource.com
17
Theta Ridge Coffee
800.745.8738
thetaridgecoffee.com
89
Toddy
888.863.3974
toddycafe.com
59
Vessel Drinkware
855.883.7735
vesseldrinkware.com
79
Wega
39.0438.1799700
wega.it
20
Your Brand Café
866.566.0390
yourbrandcafe.com
14
Zojirushi America
800.264.6270
zojirushi.com
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