KICKSTARTER CAFÉS | SLAYER’S JASON PREFONTAINE | CIDER | GRINDER MAINTENANCE | GOLDEN BEAN
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COFFEE + CHOCOLATE What grows together, goes together Page 38
T H E M AGA Z I N E FO R S P E C I A LT Y C O F F E E & T E A P R O F E SS I O N A L S S I N C E 1 9 9 2
FEATURES OCTOBER 2017 Fresh Cup Magazine » Vol. 26 » No. 10
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DO YOU KNOW?
THE OTHER SIDE OF CIDER
Slayer’s Jason Prefontaine.
Combined with bubbles or chai, fresh-pressed apple juice has all-season appeal.
BY ZACH MAZRIM
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8
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BY RACHEL SANDSTROM MORRISON
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BACK TO THE GRIND
THINKING INSIDE THE BOX
Regular cleaning and maintenance are necessary to keep your grinder in tip-top shape.
The newest mail order kits offer subscribers a jolt of caffeine.
BY MICHAEL BUTTERWORTH
BY JODI HELMER
October 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine
DEPARTMENTS OCTOBER 2017 Fresh Cup Magazine » Vol. 26 » No. 10
24 22
28
32
34
38
18
28
Golden Bean North America; Nestlé Buys Blue Bottle Coffee
Innovation and Tradition Lead to Green Tea Enlightenment by Kei Nishida
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32
38
FORK & KNIFE
12
George Coffee + Provisions by Ellie Bradley
Culinary Inspiration by Grahm Doughty
Coffee + Chocolate by Robin Roenker
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THE FILTER
BEHIND THE BAR
THE WHOLE LEAF
NINE BAR
FROM THE EDITOR CONTRIBUTORS 66
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE 24
34
74
Kickstarting Ideas into Reality by Taylor May
Part Two: The Agronomist Turned Entrepreneur by Garrett Oden
Five Minutes with the Golden Bean’s Sean Edwards; Halloween Playlist
IN HOUSE
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ORIGIN
THE BACK PAGE
People and products
70
CALENDAR Trade shows and events
72
ADVERTISER INDEX
FC
FROM THE EDITOR THE BUZZ EMANATED FROM BEHIND MY EYES, SOMEWHERE
CONNECT WITH US
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ON THE COVER: Coffee + Chocolate The flight at Cup & Bar features Trailhead Coffee Roasters three ways—pourover, espresso, and cortado. Each drink is paired with a square of single-origin chocolate by Ranger Chocolate Company.
PETER SZYMCZAK, EDITOR editor@freshcup.com
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Photo by Charles Gullung Photography
EDITOR P HOTO BY CHA RLES G ULLUNG P HOTO GRAP HY; TO P RIGHT PHOTO C O URTESY O F C OFFEE C ULTURE
around my upper forehead and cerebral cortex region. It extended, vibrating downward in waves throughout my whole body, which felt tingly and slightly euphoric. My eyelids had widened to maximum alertness, and my normal loping gait had become a springy waltz. I could tell I was walking on the tiptoes of my feet, my heels barely grazing the ground. That basically sums up how I felt after downing three coffee drinks and eating three squares of single-origin chocolate in quick succession during the photoshoot for this month’s cover. The image was taken at Cup & Bar in Portland, Oregon, the co-headquarters of two roasting operations—Trailhead, whose ware is coffee, and Ranger, which specializes in chocolate. When I returned to the office and told my new coworkers here at Fresh Cup about my theobromine-and-caffeine-induced high, they all laughed. “Welcome to the coffee world,” they chortled. This upbeat feeling was a welcome change, compared to the sensory effect I had become accustomed to while covering the wine world, my beat prior to joining Fresh Cup. At the end of a long day tasting dozens of wines, I’d feel sluggish, oftentimes suffering from a splitting headache due to all the alcohol and tannins I’d been exposed to, despite spitting after each sip, and in desperate need of a nap. So, how does a wine reporter port into the specialty coffee and tea industry? Well, according to Joth Ricci, the former president of Stumptown Coffee Roasters who now oversees operations at Adelsheim Vineyard, there are strong parallels between these two beverage markets. “When I first got to Stumptown, my first thought was, ‘This is the wine business, just a different category.’ The parallels between the two industries, because of the way they are farmed and because they’re agricultural products, and the way they are positioned with flavors and style and type are very, very similar,” Ricci comments in a recent BevNET.com podcast. The similarities have become abundantly clear to me since taking over the copydesk from outgoing editor Ellie Bradley. (By the way, you’ll continue to read stories from Ellie as she pursues freelance opportunities from her new home base in Colorado. Check out her report on an up-and-coming Texas café in this month’s “Behind the Bar” on page 22.) While talking with Charlie Wicker of Trailhead Coffee and other roasters at the Golden Bean competition (see our event coverage starting on page 18), the subject of being connected to the source of their product came up time after time. Winemakers, too, will wax on about terroir and the delicate balance—responsibility, really—that exists between the “hand” and the “land.” Wicker describes his latest roast of beans from Vietnam as having overtones of “walnut and bamboo,” flavor notes that wouldn’t be out of place in a wine review. Pairing food with beverages—wine and coffee alike—is yet another overlap. There’s no doubt others will reveal themselves as I dig into the topics that are important to today’s specialty coffee and tea industry. Similarities aside, there’s one important difference where coffee wins big over wine as far as I’m concerned, and that’s the buzz.
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FRESH CUP MAGAZINE ~~~FRESH CUP FOUNDER~~~ WARD BARBEE 1938-2006 ~~~FRESH CUP PUBLISHING~~~ Publisher and President JAN WEIGEL jan@freshcup.com ~~~EDITORIAL~~~ Editor PETER SZYMCZAK editor@freshcup.com Digital Editor RACHEL SANDSTROM MORRISON rachel@freshcup.com ~~~ART~~~ Art Director CYNTHIA MEADORS cynthia@freshcup.com ~~~ADVERTISING~~~ Sales Manager MICHAEL HARRIS michael@freshcup.com Ad Coordinator DIANE HOWARD adtraffic@freshcup.com Marketing Coordinator ANNA SHELTON anna@freshcup.com ~~~CIRCULATION~~~ Circulation Director ANNA SHELTON anna@freshcup.com ~~~ACCOUNTING~~~ Accounting Manager DIANE HOWARD diane@freshcup.com ~~~EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD~~~ DAVID GRISWOLD
ANUPA MUELLER
Sustainable Harvest Coffee Importers
Eco-Prima
CHUCK JONES
BRAD PRICE
Jones Coffee Roasters
Monin Gourmet Flavorings
JULIA LEACH
BRUCE RICHARDSON
Toddy
Elmwood Inn Fine Teas
COSIMO LIBARDO
MANISH SHAH
Toby’s Estate Coffee
Maya Tea Co.
BRUCE MILLETTO
LARRY WINKLER
Bellissimo Coffee Advisors
Torani
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CONTRIBUTORS MICHAEL BUTTERWORTH Preventative maintenance is key to keeping grinders and the operations of your café running smoothly. In “Back to the Grind” (page 56), Michael Butterworth talks to industry experts and grinder manufacturers, offering tips for what to clean, when to clean it, and how to be safe while doing it. Michael Butterworth is a coffee educator and consultant focusing on Eastern Europe and the Middle East.
ELLIE BRADLEY Outgoing editor of Fresh Cup Magazine, Ellie Bradley recently moved from Oregon to Colorado, where she will pursue freelance writing opportunities while continuing to cover the specialty coffee and tea industry. Read her profile of mom-and-pop café, George Coffee + Provisions in Coppell, Texas, on page 22.
GRAHM DOUGHTY As the creative director at Dapper & Wise in Portland, Oregon, Doughty creates tasty beverages, oftentimes getting his inspiration from food. In this month’s Nine Bar column (page 32), Doughty shares his process: from initial taste to trial-and-error attempts for translating that sensory experience into a menu-ready beverage.
JODI HELMER Subscription boxes are making singleorigin coffees and specialty teas more accessible to customers. “Thinking Inside the Box” (page 60) provides a few standout subscription models as examples to show how the right partners and the right model can grow into a following. Jodi Helmer is a North Carolina-based freelance writer covering the intersections between food, farming, and business.
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TAYLOR MAY People are turning to crowdfunding for help realizing their dream projects, from launching a brand-new company to building a brick-and-mortar space for their café. Arcade Coffee, a Riverside, California-based pop-up café, is a case in point. This month’s In House (page 24) tells how Arcade’s owners used Kickstarter to build out a permanent home. Taylor May is a freelance writer based in Nepal.
ZACH MAZRIM In this month’s Do You Know? (page 42), Zach Mazrim, former editor at Café Culture China, interviews Jason Prefontaine, one of Slayer Espresso’s founders. Find out how Slayer, which started in 2007 during the less-than-fortuitous economic environment of the Great Recession, succeeded against all odds to become one of the industry’s best-known makers of highly regarded espresso machines.
KEI NISHIDA Kei Nishida is the author of I Will Teach You How to Be Healthy by Using Japanese Green Tea. In this month’s Whole Leaf (page 28), Nishida discusses new and old ways to highlight green tea— from matcha-infused beers to traditional Japanese tea ceremonies.
GARRETT ODEN In the second part of his two-part profile (page 34), Garret Oden continues to tell the story of Michigan-based coffee roaster Darwin Pavon and how he has developed a direct-trade network with coffee farmers in his native country of Honduras. Oden is a barista at Yellow House Coffee in Lubbock, Texas.
ROBIN ROENKER Pairing coffee and chocolate requires exploration and experimentation, and that’s all part of the fun. In this month’s Pairings column (page 38), we get an insight into the specialty cafés taking advantage of coffee and chocolate’s complementary flavor profiles. Roenker is a freelance writer based in Lexington, Kentucky.
The FILTER A Fine Blend of News and Notes
GOLDEN BEAN: Steve Cuevas of Black Oak Coffee Roasters (left); Sean & Kristine Edwards, founders of Golden Bean, Jan & Rod Weigel of Fresh Cup (above, from left to right); Mike Perry of Klatch Coffee.
Black Oak Coffee Roasters wins top honors at North American stop of world’s largest coffee roasting competition
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he Pentair® Everpure® Golden Bean North America coffee roasting competition was held September 13–16 in Portland, Oregon. The competition showcased the best roasted coffees, judged as espresso, milk-based, and filter beverages, with medals awarded in ten categories. Attendees from roasteries, importers, and distributors came together around the cupping table to judge the submitted coffees in a blind tasting format. Palates were calibrated by Q-graders, who roamed around the room, dipping their cupping spoons into tasters’ cups to ensure the integrity of scores. Submissions were up over 25 percent from last year, according to Golden Bean founder Sean Edwards. In all, more than 837 pounds of coffee were entered among all
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categories. The category with the largest number of submissions was filter, and more than 2,000 coffee drinks were prepared by a skilled squad of volunteer baristas. This year’s event was the third Golden Bean to take place in Portland, Oregon. “Portland has such an amazing energy and enthusiasm for coffee. We started the Golden Bean over ten years ago in Australia, and the support from North America has just been tremendous,” Edwards says, noting that he is in the process of planning a Golden Bean competition for the United Kingdom. “There’s a different kind of expectation for this event, compared to other trade shows,” says Connie Kolosvary, Café Femenino Program Director. “You’re sitting, talking, getting to know each other, and having real
THE WINNERS: • Overall—Black Oak Coffee Roasters, Ethiopia Chelelektu Natural • Franchise store (filter)— Groundwork Coffee Co., Heritage Blend • Franchise store (milk-based)— Crimson Cup Coffee, Wayfarer Blend • Franchise store (espresso)— Klatch Coffee, Klatch Golden Bean B • Overall small franchise winner— Klatch Coffee, Golden Bean B • Overall large franchise winner— Peerless Coffee & Tea, Ethiopia Mystic Lion • North-American Grown (milkbased)—Union Coffee Roaster, Finca Idealista Natural Rainforest Micro-Lot • Decaffeinated (milk-based)— Dr. Bean’s Coffee Roasters, Ethiopia Yirgacheffe • Organic (espresso)—Bonlife Coffee Roasters, Tswana • Pour-Over Filter—Bird Rock Coffee Roasters, Ethiopia Gedeo AND Press Coffee Roasters, Ethiopia Gebeb Organic Gotiti Washed
P HOTOS BY HALEY A UST IN P HOTO GRA PHY
ROASTERS COMPETE FOR COVETED GOLDEN BEANS
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BLUE BOTTLE’S CEO Bryan Meehan (left) and CPO James Freeman.
NESTLÉ BUYS BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE
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estlé made a big splash in the specialty coffee world this September when it purchased a majority stake—68 percent—of Blue Bottle Coffee, the high-end roaster and retailer based in Oakland, California. According to a Nestlé press release, current Blue Bottle management will stay the same, with Bryan Meehan continuing as chief executive officer and founder James Freeman as chief product officer. The change of ownership will enable the company to continue the company’s growth in major US cities and Japan. Twenty-five new cafés are slated to open by the end of 2017, bringing the total to fifty-five, and Blue Bottle has launched a product line including cold-brew cans, pre-ground coffee, and NOLA cartons. Blue Bottle will remain a standalone entity—the first of the 2,000 or so brands in Nestlé’s portfolio. “We have a separate board,” Freeman says. “We’re not under [Nestlé’s] umbrella. We don’t get checks from Nestlé, we don’t have their HR, there’s nobody from Switzerland coming over to run our finance department, and we have complete autonomy over ingredient
sourcing, quality, café design…There’s no pressure to use any products that we don’t want to use.” Translation: don’t expect to see a Nestlé Crunch Bar Latte among Blue Bottle’s menu offerings. The biggest change is that Freeman and Meehan can get back what they love: coffee. “What this Nestlé deal does is give [our investors] an exit, which they’re happy with, and now instead of 252 investors, we have one. Bryan and I are still shareholders. Our employees still have a stock option plan,” Freeman says. “It’s better when I can focus on the coffee part of the business.” The acquisition will solidify Nestlé’s status as the world’s largest coffee producer, with brands including Nescafé and Nespresso. Nestlé CEO Mark Schneider says, “This move underlines Nestlé’s focus on investing in high-growth categories and acting on consumer trends. Blue Bottle Coffee’s passion for quality coffee and mission-based outlook make for a highly successful brand. Their path to scale is clearly defined and benefits from increasing consumer appreciation for delicious and sustainable coffee.” FC —Rachel Sandstrom Morrison
P HOTO BY CH RIS TO PHER M IC HEL
frank discussions about coffee. It’s nice to be able to get past barriers.” The event also featured educational seminars and networking opportunities, with more than one hundred businesses representing all aspects of the specialty coffee and tea industry in attendance. Speakers addressed all stages of coffee and tea production from origin to table. Seminar topics ranged from how to establish directtrade relationships and ways to incorporate a successful tea program, to explaining the specialty coffee waves, financing a roasting business, and elevating your brand with packaging. Steve Lanphier, a pillar of the coffee industry, was presented the Golden Bean Hall of Fame award by Jan Weigel, publisher of Fresh Cup Magazine, at the closing night awards presentation. Lanphier has worked in various capacities of the specialty coffee industry for the past two decades, as a barista, barista trainer, roaster, importer, café consultant, supplier, and entrepreneur. Black Oak Coffee Roasters of Ukiah, California, won overall top honors. “We are incredibly proud and grateful to have had our Ethiopia Chelelektu selected as the Overall Champion at this year’s Golden Bean North America,” says Steve Cuevas, Black Oak’s head roaster. In all, Black Oak took home five bronze and four silver medals, with their Kenya Othaya Chinga also placing in different categories. Roasters submitted coffees to the ten categories: franchise store (filter), franchise store (milk-based), franchise store (espresso), North American-grown (milk-based), decaffeinated (milkbased), single origin (espresso), organic (espresso), pour-over filter, milk-based, and espresso. There were winners in each category, as well as an overall winner for small and large franchise, and for the whole Golden Bean competition. Golden Bean North America will return to Portland, Oregon, next year. Stay tuned to Fresh Cup Magazine, the event’s official media sponsor, for dates and more event information. —Rachel Sandstrom Morrison
THE GEORGE COFFEE + PROVISIONS CREATION TEAM: Bill Peck (architect), Chris Raines (builder), Roots Coffeehouse (coffee consultants), Edison Coffee Co. (roasting partner), Dustin Lucas (interior design), Lawns of Dallas (landscape), Janna Tidwell Studio (landscape architecture), and Dana Pugh Designs (interior style).
A Fellow Companion: The Curtis hot water tower is kept at 211 degrees Fahrenheit for the Fellow kettles used on the pour-over bar. By the time kettles are filled and transported to the manual brew bar, water is ready at 202 degrees.
Not Too Tall: The twin one-gallon Curtis G3 batch brewer allows two different drip coffees to be featured, while occupying less vertical real estate than the popular 1.5-gallon edition of the brewer. George serves coffee from Edison Coffee Co., a local roaster.
Stay Grinding: George co-owner Christian Hemberger says they chose Mahlkönig’s Guatemala grinder over the sexier EK43 for its compatibility with space and budget. The “workhorse” is used for batch brew, cold-brew, and the pour-over bar.
Purposeful Pivot: An ice machine kept within close reach of the POS makes it easy for the register barista to quickly prepare iced drinks.
See Food: A grab-and-go refrigeration unit displays locally made cold-pressed juices, ready-to-drink beverages, and prepared food, so customers can easily see what’s available.
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Mix It Up: The centrally placed Blendtec blender is bar-flow friendly, while a sound shield minimizes noise disruptions. The neighboring dump sink is deep enough to rinse the pitcher without requiring an extra kitchen run.
BEHIND the BAR George Coffee + Provisions Coppell, Texas
Form + Function: The Square point-of-sale system was chosen for its simple aesthetic and familiarity to customers.
Perfect Pitcher: An in-counter pitcher rinser and a set of Rhinoware pitchers with Accutemp stickon thermometers help to streamline espresso prep. The thermometers ensure consistent drink temperatures, essential for customers making the switch from corporate coffee giants known for speed and consistency.
Low Means Go: The register and pick-up counters were lowered to 36 inches, designed to meet ADA guidelines. Hemberger says the varied levels have been helpful in directing customer flow.
P HOTO C O UR TESY OF GEO RGE C O FFEE + P ROVISIONS
Espresso Flow: The three-group Synesso MVP Hydra espresso machine is flanked by a Mahlkönig K30 and a Mazzer electronic grinder, used for decaf. The grinder station provides extra space between the register and espresso baristas.
B
» by Ellie Bradley «
efore George Coffee + Provisions opened in Coppell, Texas, options for coffee in the Dallas suburb were mostly found along major throughways and freeway access roads. Morning lattes were hurriedly passed across counters and handed off through windows, accompanied by limited conversation and few options for seating. “People said if you want to do coffee, it had to be on a main road,” says George co-owner Christian Hemberger. But looking at available commercial space in strip malls and other traditional venues proved limiting—and expensive. “What we wanted to do just didn’t fit within those confines.” Hemberger and his wife and co-owner, Laura, envisioned a specialty coffee experience that provided a space for community to gather. So, they decided to take a gamble: they asked the bank to approve them to serve as their own landlords, and requested the City of Coppell to rezone their residential property as commercial mixed use—the first of its kind in Coppell. The bank and city approved, and the Hembergers began the multi-year process of transforming their home into a café and community space, opening the doors of George Coffee + Provisions in August. The stately, white-paneled farmhouse occupies a corner of Main Street in Old Town Coppell, the city’s original downtown area. The revitalized neighborhood is also home to a park, farmer’s market, and collection of restaurants and retail shops, making it an ideal location for a homey café with abundant seating. Inside, the decor is a combination of rustic and modern touches. A sleek loveseat and chairs surround a brick fireplace, behind a set of french doors reveals a long community table, and cozy leather armchairs are tucked into corners lit with industrial lamps. A back courtyard is lined with picnic tables, where planter boxes teem with blossoms, and strings of lights glow overhead. While the aesthetic of the space is impressive, the Hembergers put equal consideration into the menu details, which includes house-made syrups, local honey, and a range of beverages to suit a variety of preferences. “We want to establish excellence and trust in whatever it is we offer,” Hemberger says. George has welcomed a steady stream of customers since opening, from groups gathering for morning bible study, to students seeking a study nook, to couples enjoying a date night. Hemberger says that the crowds have been encouraging, but what’s more satisfying is being able to provide a space to a community that has given his family so much. “We love people, and we’re loving people through good coffee.” FC GEORGE COFFEE + PROVISIONS 462 Houston St., Coppell, Texas (469) 464-3107 www.georgecoffeeandprovisions.com Hours: 6 a.m.–8 p.m., Monday–Thursday; 6 a.m.–9 p.m., Friday; 7 a.m.–9 p.m., Saturday; Closed Sunday
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In HOUSE Kickstarting Ideas into Reality » By Taylor May
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mall ideas often come with much larger price tags. Your great idea of bringing coffee to the community, for instance, sounds so simple. But bringing that idea to life will likely require more money than you have planned on or saved. The hard reality is that starting a café from scratch can cost anywhere between $25,000 and $75,000—and much more. Kickstarter is a crowdfunding program that helps turn ideas into reality. The web-based platform appeals to creatives by giving them an opportunity to connect with a community of supporters. Believers can make
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monetary donations, creating the seed investment that will help bring your idea to life. With crowdfunding, the idea of opening a café is a little more attainable.
LOVE OR MONEY As a wholesale roaster and occasional pop-up cafe, Arcade Coffee Roasters dreamed of connecting with people and enriching the lives of their community through opening their own storefront in Riverside, California. Stevie Hasemeyer and Shane Levario, cofounders of Arcade, roasted in a warehouse for three years before deciding to break ground on their idea. When the time came to start building
out the storefront, they wanted their community as involved as possible. So, they launched a Kickstarter campaign. Hasemeyer knew people who had held successful campaigns that resulted in significant investment. But, his reasons for launching were more strategic. “I knew financially it wasn’t going to be huge for us,” Hasemeyer says. “I saw it as more of a way to get the community excited.” The community loves having an opportunity to take part in the startup process, as Mark Mann and Koan Goedman, cofounders of Huckleberry Roasters in Denver, Colorado, can also attest. In 2013, they used Kickstarter to launch their roasting-only
P HOTO C OURTESY OF ARCADE C OFFEE R OASTER S
ARCADE COFFEE ROASTERS’ cofounders Shane Levario (left) and Stevie Hasemeyer during the early stages of Arcade’s tasting room construction project.
business as a brick-and-mortar café. They raised more than $13,000 in just twenty-eight days, with community forming the center of gravity for their success. “We had a compelling ask because it allowed people to feel like they were supporting us to help open up the café,” Mann says.
STANDING OUT TO SUCCEED In just twenty-six days, Arcade’s tasting room project surpassed its initial goal of $15,000, eventually reaching nearly $19,000. The Kickstarter campaign invited donations starting at just five dollars, entitling donors to a free cup of coffee. Other kickbacks ranged from T-shirts and coffee club memberships, to origin trips and free coffee for a year. However, merchandise was not the only reason Arcade’s campaign succeeded. According to Hasemeyer, one of the greatest challenges to getting funded is the number of projects related to coffee on Kickstarter—2,669 and counting. As it turns out, a couple of guys who want to start a café is not a novel idea.
A transparent coffee shop experience created a sense of ownership for the customer, and followership for Arcade. So, how does a campaign stand out from the pack? Fortunately, Arcade was unique in their community. “Our purpose is to enrich lives by inspiring others to create shared moments, relationships, and a sense of belonging for all,” Hasemeyer says. Throughout their roasting-only days, Arcade rolled up their warehouse door and invited the public to come have coffee with them a couple days every week. Levario and Hasemeyer took a break from roasting to pour lattes and gather with their community, and coffee drinkers paid what they wanted and sipped right in the middle of their warehouse. Such a transparent coffee shop experience created a sense of ownership for the customer, and followership for Arcade.
POST-CAMPAIGN LESSONS After reaching their fundraising goal and closing their Kickstarter campaign, Arcade used the funds to transform an old run-down video rental store into their first tasting room. A line of patrons, eager to
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glimpse what Arcade had created, wrapped around the building five hours before opening day. While Arcade succeeded in bringing its idea to life and connecting with its community, Hasemeyer feels that the campaign could have achieved even more. “The timing of our Kickstarter wasn’t the best. I was right in the middle of our buildout,” Hasemeyer says. Busy with applying for building permits and attending to architectural issues, he devoted only a small percentage of his attention to the campaign. If he had been more closely attuned to it, Hasemeyer senses the campaign could have had a further reach and generated greater profit. Another downside became apparent after the goal was reached. “It was super easy to get it all set up, but to finish it was cumbersome,” Hasemeyer says.
PH OTO BY K ATHLEEN MO LO NEY
HUCKLEBERRY ROASTERS’ cofounders Koan Goedman (left) and Mark Mann.
Cases of orders were not being fulfilled and contacts got lost in the mix. But in the end, Hasemeyer and Arcade’s supporters came together to bring their dream to life. “We bootstrapped this thing together,” Hasemeyer says. He and Levario invested their sweat equity while the community contributed monetarily. It’s a recipe for success and key to a great Kickstarter campaign. FC Taylor May is a freelance writer based in Nepal.
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The WHOLE LEAF
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he saying goes, “Out with the old and in with the ne w.” C an’t we h ave i t both ways? With green tea, we can. Deeply rooted in Japanese culture for centuries, green tea is becoming more and more popular today in the West and other parts of the world. Matcha sales in the United States alone have increased five-fold over the past twenty five years, to more than $10 billion. As more people drink green tea for its delicious flavor and the associated
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health benefits, new innovative ways to enjoy it have followed. It’s also important to honor the traditions that made green tea the popular drink it is today.
NEW INNOVATIONS The combination of green tea and beer has started to show up in more places, such as the Green Tea Restaurant 1899 Ochanomizu in Tokyo, where they serve three different varieties of matcha beer. Various breweries—Stone Brewing, Two Brothers, and dozens of others—
have produced their own versions of green tea beer, usually with their own unique twist. You can also create a green tea beer yourself by dissolving one-half teaspoon of matcha powder in a cup of warm water and then adding it to your favorite brew. Experiment with different types of beer and the amount of matcha powder until you get your desired taste. This is an easy and simple way to get healthconscious consumers to order a beer or two, and turn beer lovers into tea drinkers.
M ATC HA PH OTO S BY CYNTHIA M EADO RS, GREEN TEA BEER P HOTO BY @ DAIRYAND C REA M
Innovation and Tradition Lead to Green Tea Enlightenment » By Kei Nishida
Green tea lattes are one of the most popular drinks today, thanks in large part to Starbucks including them on its menu over the past few years. The good news is they’re super easy to make yourself. Combine milk, matcha powder, and a sweetener such as sugar or honey. Add hot water to dissolve the matcha powder before mixing with the milk. To give it a kick, add your favorite spirit to the mix. Vodka is a common addition, but the options are limitless.
to dilute the mixture and keep it cool. Alcohol can also be added. Clear spirits like vodka or white rum work well, but the possibilities are endless.
HONORING TRADITIONS Things change, but that doesn’t mean we should leave no trace behind. People enjoy knowing the history and culture of their favorite things, and green tea is no exception.
The history and tradition of green tea are very important to Japanese people. Some spend years studying just to be permitted to perform professional tea ceremonies. Japanese tea ceremonies are highly choreographed rituals involving the preparation and service of matcha. They require years to master. Still, certain features of them can be incorporated more casually into a
Green tea lattes are one of the most popular drinks today, thanks in large part to Starbucks including them on its menu over the past few years.
Green tea lemonade offers a subtle caffeine boost and provides an alternative for those customers who are looking to avoid the jolt of an iced coffee or cold brew. The ingredients needed to make this drink are hot water, fresh lemons, sugar, matcha powder, and ice
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place of business while still providing a feeling of authenticity. Incorporating a hanaire, for instance, as a café centerpiece can create an atmosphere for enjoying green tea. A hanaire is a simple flower pot made of metal, ceramic, or bamboo that holds flowers. Placed in a very simple manner, a hanaire is not meant to be extravagant and never uses props to draw attention. They are as basic as it gets and meant to symbolize nature.
Use of traditional utensils during green tea service further enhances the feeling of authenticity. Basics include a tea bowl for mixing and drinking the tea, a tea container for holding the matcha green tea powder, and a tea scoop made of bamboo for transferring the powder from the container to the bowl for mixing. In these ways and others, green tea can create more immersive and
expansive experiences that will encourage patrons to come back time and time again. FC Kei Nishida is the author of I Will Teach You How to Be Healthy by Using Japanese Green Tea! (available in print and Kindle Book on Amazon). Check out his blog, Japanese Green Tea and Health (japanesegreenteain.com/health), for the latest drink tips and research findings.
PH OTO BY WAK UIJUZ AN02 0 2/ CC - BY- SA- 3 .0
A HENAIRE flower pot symbolizes nature and adds a touch of traditionalism to your café.
To give your guests a sense they’re taking part in tradition, devote a portion of your café space to a tatami floor with a tatami table (also called a chabudai). Tatami floors are made with a special kind of mat for kneeling on in front of the table without the use of chairs or any other type of furniture.
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NINE BAR Culinary Inspiration » By Grahm Doughty
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ate summer is the time of year when I am on high alert for Oregon blackberries. If you’ve ever eaten them—or any outstanding fruit specimen—you understand why they pique my senses. Their flavor is visceral, spiritual, ephemeral. One particular blackberry I ate (of the Triple Crown variety) tasted like strawberry and watermelon and cotton
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candy, and yes, blackberry. I can still taste it. I am happier now just thinking about it. I’ve had similar experiences with papayas in El Salvador, and with washed coffees from Ethiopia. As creative director at Dapper & Wise Roasters in Portland, Oregon, part of my job is taking these aha! food moments and translating them into drinks that echo those transcendent tastes.
One day, I bit into an amazing pear. It was ripe, super sweet, thirstquenching—the kind of flavor that made me wonder what is lacking with every other pear I’d ever consumed. A few days later, I juiced pounds of ripe pears hoping to do justice to that taste experience. I added the fresh pear juice to black tea steeped with cardamom, star anise, cinnamon, cloves, and freshly juiced ginger.
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SPICY PEAR CHAI: one of the food-inspired beverages at Dapper & Wise.
The result was a spicy pear chai. It was delicious, hitting all the high notes of the pear, while elevating the experience with spices. Other attempts haven’t been as successful. I have tried to turn almost every pastry at Portland, Oregon’s Nuvrei Bakery into a beverage. What if there was a latte that tasted like a Nuvrei berry brioche, or one that tasted like a Korvapuusti, the incomparable Finnish cinnamon roll? Unfortunately, neither of those pastry-to-latte transformations were worth putting on our menu. However, I did stumble upon a winner with our Vanilla Rose Latte, a spring seasonal drink inspired by Nuvrei’s rose croissant. Why did this drink succeed where others missed the mark?
Everything is from something else, a taste, a feeling—from the tireless work of nature or the hard work of another human being. In my experience, some attributes translate beautifully into beverages, while others should remain source material. One of the best things about eating a Korvapuusti is using your hands to pull apart the pastry’s layers, revealing ribbons of sugar laced with cinnamon and cardamom and citrus. Sipping a cinnamon-cardamom latte simply doesn’t capture the tactile experience, and sticking your hands in the cup doesn’t improve it either. Sometimes I think it’s better to go straight to the source and just eat the thing, enjoying it for what it is. Maybe that’s why, even though I’ve developed drinks with Triple Crown blackberries, I’d rather just eat them straight-up. To me, they’re best on their own. Ultimately, I doubt I’ve ever created anything truly original. Everything is from something else, a taste, a feeling—from the tireless work of nature or the hard work of another human being. I’m just riffing on what’s already been done, and trying my best to translate my amazing food experiences to anyone who shares my curiosity. Sometimes ideas work and other times they fail. Maybe someday someone out there will taste something I’ve made, and go on to create their own amazing thing. FC Grahm Doughty is creative director at Dapper & Wise Roasters in Portland, Oregon. His chai will soon be available as a concentrate under the brand Super Bottle.
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ORIGIN Part 2: The Agronomist Turned Entrepreneur » By Garrett Oden
DARWIN PAVON with kids in Honduras.
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from connections he had made while working for Agritech. A chance meeting lead Pavon to where he is today. He met Brian Brusich, a fellow coffee fanatic with formal
entrepreneurial venture. They saw opportunity in Pavon moving away from white-label roasting and into a new brand. If successful, the two could use their business’s growth to continue
Pavon’s approach to sourcing is based on developing strong relationships with farms and other coffee companies in Central America. training in chemistry, in a cupping class. The two scientists formed an instant bond over their fascination for coffee agriculture and business. Over the next few months, Brusich and Pavon decided to partner on an
Pavon’s work of attracting rural growers into the direct-trade network he had worked so hard to establish. Pavon and Brusich launched Darwin’s Coffee in early 2017 with a twofold mission: 1) to establish new
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he career of Darwin Pavon, a native Honduran, didn’t start in a café or a commercial roaster, but on coffee farms. Before emigrating to the United States, Pavon worked as an agronomist for Agritech, a Honduran farm consulting company. His work with coffee farmers across Central America included introducing them to qualityboosting farming strategies, improved employee training, and sustainable crop management. While his work brought hope and sustainability to more than 600 farms and thousands of workers, Pavon yearned to take his own coffee career to the next stage. So he packed up his belongings, moved to a small community outside Flint, Michigan, and began white-label roasting for regional businesses using direct-trade coffee
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trade routes with existing growers, and 2) to help optimize farming and business practices with partners. Pavon’s special connection with Israel and Lurvin Ventura at Finca El Playón in Honduras—see “Part 1: The Unlikely Climb of a Honduran Agronomist,” in the September 2017 issue of Fresh Cup—was the clear avenue for reaching more rural farmers and scaling the direct-trade network. The farm’s rare export license provided a way for hundreds of farms to reach a wider audience of high-paying buyers. The two entrepreneurs reached out to the Venturas and other farm connections to let them know they were on the hunt for delicious, sustainably grown coffee. Requests to visit farms and connect in person flooded into their inboxes. “Darwin’s relationships seem like old friends talking and hanging out who don’t get to see each other often enough,” Brusich says. Pavon’s approach to sourcing is based on developing strong relationships with farms and other coffee
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companies in Central America. When visiting a farm, he evaluates not only crop quality but also crop management and business strategy to ascertain the farm’s long-term trajectory. He also looks for hard-to-reach farms that have never sold their coffee via direct trade. By bringing new farmers into his direct-trade network, Pavon is able to introduce new single-origin coffees to the United States for the first time. For the farmers, who have traditionally sold their crop at rock-bottom prices for low-grade blends, the benefits are even greater. Many farmers don’t realize they grow incredible coffee. For instance, before working with Pavon, Victor Ventura was selling his cherries for $0.35 per pound and was preparing to give up on coffee farming. With Pavon’s guidance, Ventura’s crop commanded $3.25 per pound. Pavon has helped other farmers build their own processing stations, send their kids to college, and even return to school themselves.
Not only is Pavon dedicated to increasing farmer wages and imparting the information farmers need to produce stellar coffee, he also serves as a connection to the finances farmers need to adapt and grow. In short, he’s not just a roasting buyer—he’s an advocate from seed to cup. Many coffee farmers grow up believing their crop is nothing more than a commodity, but Pavon is fighting that perspective. In his view, coffee is not only delicious, but valuable and capable of changing people’s lives. Brusich and Pavon are headed back to Honduras to meet with potential farmers and teach them about their direct-trade method—and they’re not stopping there. They hope to expand their direct-trade network model around the world so that farmers everywhere can have the opportunity to grow better coffee, sell to a variety of buyers, and live a better, more sustainable life. FC Garrett Oden is a barista at Yellow House Coffee in Lubbock, Texas.
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ROASTING at Theodore’s in Michigan.
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FORK & KNIFE Coffee + Chocolate » By Robin Roenker
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he flavor profiles of coffee and chocolate run the gamut, overlapping in both complementary and contrasting ways. It’s no surprise, then, that pairing them together is, as Charlie Wicker, owner of Portland, Oregon’s Trailhead Coffee Roasters, puts it, “pretty much heaven.” Roughly three years ago, Wicker partnered with the owners of Ranger Chocolate Company to co-launch Cup & Bar, Portland’s first dedicated coffee and chocolate tasting room. Production for both companies takes place on site, so customers can see firsthand the similarities in the roasting processes of the coffee and cacao.
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Every cup of coffee sold at Cup & Bar is served with a small sample of Ranger Chocolate, and the café often suggests specific coffee and chocolate pairings on their daily menu. “We have a seasonal coffee from Vietnam, which pairs very well with a chocolate that Ranger has using cacao from Haiti,” Wicker says. “They each have a spicy flavor profile—it falls in the green peppery, black peppery universe—which they share in common.” Cup & Bar also offers a rotating menu of coffee and chocolate flights featuring coffees prepared in three distinct ways: as a pour-over, an espresso, and a cortado, which are then paired with chocolates that best accentuate
their flavors. “Sometimes having the same flavor is not good. Sometimes you want to balance it with a mirror of sorts,” Wicker says. Finding the perfect coffee and chocolate pairing requires a bit of exploration and experimentation. The flavors can echo one another or contrast one another, but figuring that out is all part of the fun. Ryan O’Rourke, owner of Ironclad Coffee Roasters in Richmond, Virginia, knew he needed an innovative way to announce his company’s grand opening. So, in March 2016, just a month or so after opening shop, he partnered with Chocolates by Kelly, a Richmond artisan chocolatier owned by
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CUP & BAR’S coffee and chocolate flight.
Kelly Wombold, to host a coffee and chocolate pairing event. The response was overwhelming, so much so that the pair hosted a second event that same spring. In all, roughly 200 attendees were treated to the delectable pairings O’Rourke and Wombold settled on, after swapping samples of one another’s offerings and sharing tasting notes. Their menu included sophisticated couplings like Burundi Bumoco Society coffee alongside milk chocolate butter toffee, playing upon their shared caramel notes, and Ironclad’s Steam Engine Blend, which, because of its hints of mulled wine, was partnered with Wombold’s Malbec wine cordial. Guests were encouraged to note their reactions to each coffee, chocolate, and the pairing of the two on note cards at the event.
“It was very interactive,” O’Rourke says. “What was interesting is we had some comments say that while a certain coffee or chocolate wasn’t their favorite, that particular pairing was the best, and in their opinion those two complemented each other the most perfectly.” Two years later, customers still stop O’Rourke to tell him they were introduced to Ironclad thanks to those initial chocolate tasting events. “We’ve done other events since then that I think were just as worthy, but we haven’t matched the social media interest for any other event that we’ve done. Our Facebook numbers for those events were colossal,” O’Rourke says. “This interesting angle with coffee and chocolate is really intriguing to people.” Sometimes, the perfect coffee and chocolate pairing can be found serendipitously. Stacy Staton, owner of Rick’s Fine Chocolates and Coffees in Guthrie, Oklahoma, had never thought of dipping her best-selling confection—a milk-chocolate-and-caramelcovered pecan candy—into black coffee until she saw someone in her shop doing it. When she tried it herself, she was hooked.
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P HOTO C OURTESY OF IRONC LAD C O FFEE R OAST ER S
A latte is the go-to dunking partner for a chocolate chip cookie at FRENCH BROAD CHOCOLATES.
“It was phenomenal. The hot coffee melted the chocolate a little bit and softened the caramel,” Staton says. “It was so much better than dunking a donut, that’s for sure.” As Staton discovered, the pairings don’t always have to be fancy to be delicious. In Asheville, North Carolina, Jael Rattigan and her husband Dan are owners of French Broad Chocolates, where they create hand-crafted, artisanal chocolate candy bars, truffles, caramels, and more. The go-to coffee and chocolate pairing Rattigan sees customers enjoying most often is the tried-and-true combo of lattes and chocolate chip cookies. “You do a little dip, dip, and the latte milk just sits right on top of your cookie,” she says. “It’s perfect.” Beyond the fact that the two simply taste great together, Rattigan believes there’s another key reason chocolate and coffee have such a kindred connection: their production is uncannily similar. “Coffee and cacao are the ultimate compadres. They hail from a common latitude. They’re both seeds of a tropical fruit that are fermented and dried at origin. And they both are carefully roasted to bring out their flavor profiles,” Rattigan says. “Like with the coffee industry, the chocolate industry is increasingly moving away from the dark roasting of beans and is interested instead in protecting and bringing out the delicate flavor profiles present in the beans.” That’s essentially the same mantra driving specialty coffee roasters such as Ironclad’s O’Rourke. “We don’t want people to be able to taste the roast,” he said. “We like to use the term ‘micro-morphosis,’ which means that, when we roast, we want to have as little impact on the beauty of the coffee as we can—just enough to bring out the potential of what’s in the coffee. That’s what we’re looking for.” FC Robin Roenker is a freelance writer based in Lexington, Kentucky.
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Do You KNOW?
By Zach Mazrim
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hree Seattle entrepreneurs—Eric Perkunder, Dan Urweiler, and Jason Prefontaine—formed Slayer Espresso in 2007. Their goal: to design the ultimate espresso machine. Two years later, at the height of the Great Recession, the trio launched their machine with the hefty price of $18,000. Crazy, right? Yet by July 2010, Slayer had topped $1 million in sales. Jason Prefontaine talks about the company’s origins and the passion that drives Slayer today. HOW DID YOU GET STARTED IN THE COFFEE INDUSTRY?
In 1991, I started as an espresso machine importer. Being a technician, I was always thinking to myself why
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a particular design was chosen, or why the machine engineers chose this specific way to construct it. This inevitably led to the follow-up thoughts of mine that “if I designed a machine, then I would…” From 2003 to 2005, the third wave and direct-trade craze really picked up and became prevalent in more mainstream cafés across the United States and Canada. Cupping scores were improving, the brewed coffee tasted fantastic, but when we were pulling shots they weren’t turning out nearly as good as we were expecting based on the cupping and brewing. We were determined to find out why and how, if at all possible, we could achieve the results we wanted. What we soon discovered was the espresso machines were not built for single-origin boutique coffees, equipped to
P HOTO C OURTESY OF SLAYER ESPR ESSO
Jason Prefontaine, President, Slayer Espresso
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elicit the complex yet delicate flavors of these coffees. They were built for the traditional espresso blends, most with robusta, to provide the body and mouthfeel associated with espresso for decades. WHAT WAS THE NEXT STEP AFTER THIS REALIZATION THAT THE LIMITING FACTOR WAS THE MACHINERY?
We decided the way to achieve the desired outcome was to reinvent the machine itself to suit these new coffees. If the equipment wasn’t good enough, if we were being limited and restricted by our machinery, then it was time to update and upgrade it.
HOW DID THE TECHNOLOGY AND DESIGN OF SLAYER COME ABOUT?
At the time, I was preparing for a competition and I had been using the same coffee, tasting it daily and knowing exactly what its characteristics were. But
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PH OTO C OURTESY O F S LAYER ESP RESSO
I knew what that coffee tasted like. I cupped it; I roasted it. And this cup of espresso was far superior to the other shots I had on other machines.
when I dialed it in on the “Frankenstein” test machine, something amazing happened. This was the same coffee I had been pulling shots on for weeks, but when I dialed it in on the machine with altered flow rate, it was completely different. It was incredible. I knew what that coffee tasted like. I cupped it; I roasted it. And this cup of espresso was far superior to the other shots I had on other machines. As we were creating the machine, I wanted to design something that, even if no one had ever seen a Slayer machine before, they would see by the look and craftsmanship that this café knew what they were doing. The name Slayer also came from this idea. So many aspects of the market were stagnant and, honestly, boring— designs, names, everything. Slayer was a way to revive that dull market and the name jolts you when you hear it and say it.
factors back then, the economic climate, the stagnant market, and our passion for elevating coffee provided the ideal environment for Slayer to make the biggest impact. To push through all of the barriers we had to be at least persistent, if not obstinate, in our efforts. HOW DID YOUR PASSION CONNECT WITH OTHERS IN THE INDUSTRY?
When we first began, we didn’t have a worldwide distribution network set up. If you wanted a machine, you would pay half the price upfront, and then I would start building it.
WHAT WAS THE VISION FOR SLAYER?
Our vision has been relatively constant since the inception: We wanted to make coffee better. We realized that to make coffee better, we had to implement this ideology into every step of the process, including how we sell, how we market, and how we work with distributors. I was a distributor before and I am a manufacturer now, so I have a much clearer understanding of how these relationships can be successful. WHAT WERE SOME SETBACKS ALONG THE WAY?
We launched in 2009, right in the heart of the economic downturn. People inside and outside of the industry all thought we were insane. Here we were selling the world’s most expensive espresso machine at the time, in the middle of a depression. But more than the financial side, we experienced a lot of pushback from the industry. Our goal was to shake it up and in succeeding to do so, we met opposition. Despite the financial circumstances, I do believe that the timing of the birth of Slayer was perfect. If we had waited, I think it would have been much more difficult. All the
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PH OTO S C OURTESY O F SLAYER ESP RESSO
Upon completion you would pay the other half. Then you would have to fly to Seattle to pick it up. We also didn’t have technicians anywhere else, so if you wanted your machine to be serviced, I would teach you how when you picked it up. Then you would ship it back, and be responsible for installation yourself.
It really was the worst kind of deal for a café owner to buy a machine. But surprisingly enough, I had café owners from all over the world contact me wanting machines. They flew here to buy one machine to put in their one café halfway around the world. That was inspiring, because those were precisely the kind of crazy, passionate people I wanted to meet and do business with—and those are the people who have been and will continue to drive coffee forward. FC
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C
ider is a fall menu staple for many reasons. It’s delicious when steamed and simply topped with a dash of cinnamon or dollop of whipped cream. It’s super versatile. Cider can be a featured ingredient in baked goods, such as apple cider donuts, and a variety of other sippable and edible treats. It encapsulates the flavors of autumn, and it appeals to all ages. Adding cider to your menu not only builds excitement for the holidays, it’s also a caffeine-free, kid- and afternoon-friendly beverage. And it gives you something new to promote. With all its potential, there’s every reason to serve cider now, and even year-round.
CREATIVE COMBOS Anytime an ingredient can do double or triple duty, a café’s bottom line benefits. That was one of the motivations behind the fall seasonal drink at San Diego, California’s Hawthorn Coffee—hot ginger cascara cider. The drink is a combination of hot ginger cascara tea and fresh, house-made apple cider.
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HAWTHORN COFFEE’S hot ginger cascara cider with house-made apple cider.
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Chai’s components—cinnamon, clove, and black tea—add depth to fresh apple cider, and when steamed, they become a mug full of fall flavors, with a touch of caffeine.
A CHAI-DER from Coffee Culture in Corvallis, Oregon, combines chai from the Chai Company with cider from a local orchard.
Co-owner Dylan Redmond has long been interested in cascara and cider, but he was never able to combine the two. A combo finally came together organically at a team meeting. “We sat down to talk about cider again, and one of the staff came up with the idea to combine cider with our hot ginger cascara tea. We played with it and decided it was going to be one of our yummy fall drinks,” Redmond says. The drink is a complex, yet cozy beverage for customers wanting a fall drink with a creative edge. “The cascara has a really nice cherry/ tamarind flavor, a good cherry pulse through the apples, and with the spices that we’re using in the apple cider, it all comes together,” Redmond says. “Then we sweeten it with agave because we love that flavor, and it keeps it vegan for the vegans.” “Chai-der” is another typically offmenu coffeehouse hack, consisting
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of one-half chai concentrate and onehalf apple cider. The flavor profiles of apple cider and chai complement each other. Chai’s components—cinnamon, clove, and black tea—add depth to fresh apple cider, and when steamed, they become a mug full of fall flavors, with a touch of caffeine. “Customers love it because they feel like they’re ordering an insider drink, but also because our cider is from a local orchard,” says Caitlin Blevins, brand manager of Coffee Culture and Holderness Coffee Roasters in Corvallis, Oregon. “And our chai—from the Chai Company— adds those traditional fall spices like cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg to the cider. It’s a cozy and nostalgic fall drink.” Chai-der is simple to make. Fill a steaming pitcher halfway with equal parts chai concentrate and apple cider—a little higher than you would with milk, since chai-der doesn’t really foam up. Steam to temp.
FROM CONCENTRATE TO SPARKLING, AND BEYOND North Chittenden, Vermont’s Mountain Cider started making apple cider concentrate out of necessity. In addition to running a Christmas tree farm, they made fresh apple cider from their orchard and sold cups of hot cider to customers as they shopped. But almost every day they either did not have enough, or they had too much and it went bad. To solve the problem of fresh apple cider’s shelf life, they created an apple cider concentrate and Mountain Cider was born. Now, the bulk of Mountain Cider’s customers are coffee shops. Most sales orders come during the fall, but according to Will Gormley, president of Mountain Cider, “We’re seeing growth in cider over summer. People are getting more creative with drink recipes.”
Sparkling beverages are a menu staple for cafés, so combining two popular things is a natural. It’s one thing to have eager customers waiting in line for their favorite fall drinks, but what do you do when the concentrate you’ve bought is still sitting on your shelves? Classic Coffee in Glendora, California, solved that problem by creating a hot weather friendly cider beverage: sparkling cider. Sparkling beverages are a menu staple for cafés, so combining two popular things is a natural. Classic Coffee’s sparkling cider is essentially an apple Italian soda, and customers love it, after they’re encouraged to try it. “We’ve been serving it seasonally for four years. Customers have to be talked into it a little bit— they’re not used to seeing apple cider featured outside of fall. But once they order it, they’re pleased. It’s surprisingly good, complex, yet refreshing,” says general manager Jonathan Lambert.
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SPA RKLING CID ER P HOTO C OURTESY O F C LASSIC C O FFEE
To make one, combine cider concentrate with a touch of simple syrup, to emphasize cider’s natural sweetness. Add ice and sparkling water, stir, and serve! Cider also plays a part in alcoholic beverages. Bourbon, sparkling wine, spiced rum and vodka are all common additions to really get customers into the holiday spirit.
CLASSIC COFFEE created a sparkling cider as a hot weather friendly beverage.
Adding cider to your bar can increase your revenue. Creative cider drinks appeal to all ages, and they provide alternatives for afternoon and evening menus. Off-season options reduce waste, and keep your customers curious and engaged—trendy beverages are a hit on Instagram—throughout the year. FC
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rinders play an incredibly important role in coffee service, yet the work they do is largely ignored until one breaks down. A busy coffee shop can’t afford to have a grinder go down in the middle of the morning rush. Although there’s little that can be done to prevent the occasional rock going through your grinder (besides only buying coffee from a roaster with a good destoner), most grinder problems can be circumvented by following industry standards for cleaning and maintaining your equipment. “Some people will just use a grinder until it stops working,” says Travis Jones, sales manager for Mahlkönig USA. “If you had paid a little attention, it would have made a huge difference.” Most of us add routine grinder maintenance to the long list of good things we know we should do, yet don’t. Despite the simplicity of most routine maintenance, Jones says Mahlkönig USA regularly services grinders that have broken down due to poor upkeep. The most important step is also the easiest to implement: regular cleaning. Over time, oils from the coffee will accumulate inside the grinder, leading to staling, clogs, and more serious problems. Although amateurs should not attempt complicated electrical work, any barista should be comfortable cleaning out a coffee grinder with some basic instructions. “Cleaning out the grinder is something we can all do,” Jones says. He recommends vacuuming out grinders daily with a shop vac and deep cleaning on a weekly basis. These duties should be added to a barista’s closing chores, along with cleaning the café and backflushing the espresso machine. Alex Choppin of Baratza agrees. “Cleaning is probably the single most important thing any café can do to keep a grinder in good shape for
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years,” Choppin says. “Get those burrs apart and clean them with a good brush. Getting very fine coffee particles out of the corners and crevices will help avoid that staleness you get from a dirty grinder.” Most of Baratza’s grinders are geared for the home, but the protocol for cleaning a grinder is the same for a consumer or commercial machine. “We consider a brush to be the single best burr cleaner out there—it’s simple, cheap, and effective. There are cleaning tablets on the market that do a great job of scrubbing old coffee and oils off of burrs, but we don’t consider them necessary if you don’t want to add another product to your cleaning shelf,” Choppin says. Although it can be tempting to use water for cleaning parts, it’s important to remember that grinders use electricity and water contact can ruin them. Also, Choppin notes, steel burrs are not stainless, so they can rust when exposed to water. The Barista Guild of America’s Barista Level 1 certification teaches baristas to empty out espresso grinder hoppers each night and wipe them out with a clean, dry towel. This will remove oils and sediment. The barista should always make sure the grinder is unplugged before disassembling any parts.
Periodically changing the burrs is another routine task essential for proper grinder performance. Over time, the burrs will become dull, resulting in a more inconsistent particle size. If a barista finds herself using a finer and finer setting to achieve a desired grind, that might be a good indicator it’s time to change the burrs. Alternatively, extremely dull burrs will produce so many fine particles the barista might have to use an overly coarse grind to keep a brew from choking out. The lifespan of a set of burrs varies depending on the size and material, but most cafés should plan on replacing their burrs twice a year. Changing the burrs on a grinder requires a few basic tools, but many café owners are surprised to discover it’s a relatively simple repair. “With our filter grinders, they’re more bulletproof. It’s only a matter of two or three steps,” Jones says. “Espresso grinders are a little more complex. Some people need to bring in a service tech to do that job.” As always, be sure to consult the manufacturer and follow basic safety protocols before attempting any repair. Consider making a spreadsheet or journal where maintenance can be logged. When you maintain your grinders, your coffee will taste better than ever. FC
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PHOTO BY SIM PLY SYK ES PHOTO GRAP HY
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ATLAS COFFEE CLUB cofounders Michael Shewmake (left) and Jordan Rosenacker.
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Atlas Coffee Club is among a growing number of companies operating with a subscription model—a retail trend that continues to expand in popularity. Research conducted by Shorr Packaging shows there are more than 2,000 subscription box services in the United States, in categories ranging from cosmetics and pet supplies to clothing and meal kits. Coffee and tea subscriptions are also gaining traction. Subscription models are as diverse as the coffees and teas included in the boxes. Some focus on coffee beans from specific regions, while others highlight local roasters. Subscribers might receive a single seasonal loose leaf tea or several varieties of more classic flavors. Although the
mail-order offerings are ubiquitous, for startups, perfecting the model remains challenging.
SUBSCRIBING TO A SUCCESSFUL MODEL Plum Deluxe started as a simple e-commerce site selling four different flavors of loose leaf tea and shipping them to customers from its headquarters in Portland, Oregon. In 2011, as the subscription model started gaining momentum, founder Andy Hayes decided to offer customers monthly tea subscriptions—and sales exploded. For ten dollars per month, subscribers receive one two-ounce tea of the month in flavors like vanilla spice, forest berries with hazelnut, and smoked blood orange. A premium
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ome coffee drinkers will go a lifetime without ever experiencing singleorigin coffee from destinations such as Burundi, Rwanda, or the Congo—and Atlas Coffee Club wanted to change that. The Austin, Texas-based startup launched a coffee subscription box in 2015. For eighteen dollars per month, subscribers receive twelve ounces of single-origin coffee from a different coffee-producing nation each month. The response has been overwhelming, with subscriber numbers tripling in the first eighteen months. “There is a lot of excitement around receiving a new coffee each month,” explains executive creative director Jordan Rosenacker.
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PICKING THE RIGHT PARTNERS Hayes believes that the success of the subscription model relies on sourcing product not readily available in coffee shops or supermarkets. He notes, “It has to feel special and exclusive.”
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PLUM DELUXE sources teas from international importers while using domestic growers for ingredients like rose petals and peppermint.
Just as no two boxes are alike, subscription services take different approaches to sourcing ingredients. Plum Deluxe sources its teas from international importers and works with domestic growers to purchase ingredients such as rose petals, cherries, and peppermint; all teas are custom-blended onsite. Simple Loose Leaf works with tea importers to select its monthly offerings from a menu of more than 600 bulk teas, which are measured and packaged in Fayetteville. Atlas Coffee Club takes a hybrid approach, working with both farms and importers to source beans. Fostering exclusive relationships and featuring coffee and teas that are unique to each brand helps smaller startups compete with retail giants like Starbucks, Peet’s Coffee, and Blue Bottle, all of which offer their own subscription models. “Coffee subscriptions might seem new to some folks but the coffee space is already quite saturated and very competitive,” says Rosenacker. “The coffee world is small and for brands that just sell coffee subscriptions, it’s of the utmost importance that the coffee is of high quality—you only have one shot for the customer to enjoy the
coffee in order to commit to an ongoing subscription. I like to think that this drives the competition to source, roast, and share better coffee.”
BOLSTERING MEMBERSHIPS Even if the subscription is well structured and the products are unique, customer retention remains a major challenge of the subscription model. The average churn rate for subscription boxes, according to one report, tops 11 percent. At Atlas Coffee Club, subscribers maintain memberships for just over six months. The average subscriber relationship at Simple Loose Leaf is five months. Plum Deluxe reports its average subscription lasts thirty months. A single “bad” box can lead to membership cancellations, according to Flocks. “We are measured against our past boxes very harshly,” he says. “If we do a really great job on the teas we feature one month and the next month doesn’t line up with a customer’s expectations, there can be a large backlash for it.” While some flavors—like licorice and pineapple—are polarizing, Flocks tries to balance more adventurous offerings with tried-and-true teas such as chai.
PH OTO C OURTESY O F P LUM DELUXE
subscription includes two one-ounce teas plus a third “surprise” tea for sixteen dollars per month. “The subscription model helps us build relationships with customers because we reconnect with them month after month,” Hayes says. Simple Loose Leaf has pivoted three times since its 2013 launch, making significant shifts in the level of customization and quantities of loose leaf tea in its subscription boxes. In its first iteration, Simple Loose Leaf subscribers could customize their boxes, choosing from a menu of flavors and quantities. Despite the small number of original subscribers, the error rate was upwards of 15 percent. “We knew we couldn’t scale with the original model because filling individual orders was time consuming and we were messing up a lot of boxes,” explains co-founder Andrew Flocks. Simple Loose Leaf changed its model, offering subscribers oneounce samples of five pre-determined flavors. The pivot allowed the Fayetteville, Arkansas, startup to more than quadruple its subscriber base. But, according to Flocks, who cofounded the business with his brother Nicholas Flocks, customers continued cancelling their subscriptions after a few months. “We were overwhelming them with tea,” he says. The most recent pivot dropped the quantities of tea, sending subscribers one-third of an ounce of four flavors— including one black tea, one green tea, one herbal tea, and one seasonal tea— and dropped the price from twenty dollars to twelve. Subscriber numbers are up 700-plus percent, leading Flocks to believe Simple Loose Leaf has finally found the right model.
MARKETPLACE “Selecting teas isn’t done on a month-to-month basis,” he explains. “We look at what teas, including their ingredients and primary flavor profiles, we have featured over the past eighteen months. From there, we find the teas that we feel will be enjoyed the most by our customers or give them a truly unique experience.” If Plum Deluxe uses an ingredient more than once, it’s featured in a novel way. One summer, a box featured strawberry mint tea; the next summer, strawberry was added to Earl Grey tea. Just as the teas are seasonal, so too are revenues. The bulk of subscriptions are given as gifts, which means sales peak in November and December.
PH OTO BY SIM PLY SYK ES PH OTO GRAP HY
SIMPLE LOOSE LEAF generates the most sales during the holiday season.
At Simple Loose Leaf, 65 percent of annual revenue is generated around Christmas. Seasonal sales account for 40 percent of revenues at Plum Deluxe. To bolster revenues (and make ongoing membership more attractive to subscribers), companies often operate e-commerce platforms where they sell additional coffee, tea, and related supplies such as mugs at a discount to subscribers. In August, Atlas Coffee Club rolled out a rewards program that awards subscribers points for their coffee purchases. The rewards can be cashed in for free shipping or store credit. The startup also assigns each subscriber a “coffee tour guide” who serves as their personal connection to the brand and responds to questions about brewing, roast preferences, and other customer service issues. “Subscriptions have customer retention built in. We have a relationship during their subscription period that wouldn’t exist in a straight e-commerce business,” Rosenacker says. “But we need to continue earning their business to encourage renewals. So we’re always looking for new ways to build connections and loyalty, which is ultimately what will make us successful.” FC
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Counter INTELLIGENCE THE NEXT PSL? Monin Gourmet Flavorings has a new flavor to complement the ubiquitous pumpkin spice. Caramel Apple Butter syrup features a blend of natural apple, caramel, and cinnamon flavors for crafting seasonal beverages—hot ciders, lattes, and even spiced apple martinis—without artificial ingredients or preservatives. monin.com
CHAI IT, YOU’LL LIKE IT Portland,
Oregon-based
One
FALLING FOR MAPLE
Stripe Chai Co. is now selling
Chobani created a col-
its chai concentrate in 16-ounce
lection of seasonally-
amber boston rounds, available
inspired yogurts, only
through select restaurants and
available throughout October. Flavors range from
cafés (online sales are coming
Apple Cinnamon and Pumpkin Spice to the crown
soon). Brewed with organic spic-
jewel—Maple Blended. Each is made in a limited
es and Oregon honey, the con-
batch with natural non-GMO ingredients and no pre-
centrate makes a well-balanced cup of chai that’s
servatives. All are gluten- and rBST-free, kosher
both sweet and spicy. onestripechai.com
certified, and low lactose. chobani.com
THE SPICE MUST FLOW
WHAT’S SMOKIN’?
Portland, Oregon-based
K-Teas released two new
Clutch Coffee Roasters
tea blends that celebrate
introduced a new flavor
the smoky aromas of au-
of bottled cold-brew—
tumn. Sweet Smoke is a
Spiced Cold Brewed Cof-
nod to southern sweet tea
fee—infused
chai
and brings barrel-aged
spices and pure-maple syrup. It’s Clutch’s third cold-
depth to high-quality black tea. Campfire is s’mores
brew offering, following Original and Maple varieties.
in a mug—made with organic cacao nibs, marshmal-
clutchcoffeeroasters.com
low root, organic cinnamon, American oak chips, In-
with
Atlanta, Georgia-based
dian sarsaparilla, and marigold petals. k-teas.com
66
October 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine
» People & Products «
SUPERBIA COFFEE Superbia Coffee is grown and harvested on familyowned farms in the mountains of Colombia. Every bag comes with a code that allows you to trace the origin of the coffee, giving you and your customers an insider’s look at the farm that produced your batch. superbiacoffee.com
UNCOMMON CACAO
ALPHA DOMINCHE + DALLA CORTE
Uncommon
Cacao
Brooklyn, New York-based Alpha
works with small-
Dominche, makers of the Steam-
holder cacao farm-
punk and Sight brewing systems,
ers across six sup-
partnered with Italian equipment
plying countries to connect them with more than 100
manufacturer Dalla Corte to be-
chocolate makers globally. For its 2016 Transparen-
come the company’s United States
cy Report, the cacao importing company has added
distributor. alphadominche.com
price transparency to its regular social impact reports, with an eye on shifting the cacao industry towards fair- and direct-trade sourcing, similar to the coffee industry. uncommoncacao.com
PEUGOT
STRÄVA COFFEE + 1906
Peugeot now offers four va-
Denver, Colorado’s Sträva Cof-
rieties of hand-crank coffee
fee combined a single strain of
mills. Each mill combines a
Cannabis sativa with theanine,
professional-grade burr grinder
caffeine, and theobromine to
with a vintage look. The collec-
create Go Beans. A collabora-
tion includes the Antique Mill
tion with 1906, a luxury cannabis edibles maker, the
in antiqued patina, the Cottage Mill in matte gray or
recreational, cannabis-infused, chocolate-covered
ivory, and Bresil and Nostalgie in a walnut finish. The
coffee beans clock in at just 1 microgram of THC per
stainless-steel burrs grind coffee from french press
bean. 1906newhighs.com
coarse to espresso fine, and are backed by a lifetime warranty. peugeot-saveurs.com
Fresh Cup Magazine « freshcup.com
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Trade Show & Events CALENDAR OCTOBER OCTOBER 7-8 COFFEECON Chicago, Illinois coffee-con.com
OCTOBER 20–24 HOST Milan, Italy host.fieramilano.it
OCTOBER 9–12 MOSCOW COFFEE & TEA EXPO Moscow, Russia https://pirexpo.com/en
OCTOBER 22 EAST COAST COFFEE MADNESS Montreal, Canada eccoffeemadness.com
OCTOBER 11–13 FLORIDA RESTAURANT & LODGING SHOW Orlando, Florida flrestaurantandlodgingshow.com
OCTOBER 25–27 INTERNATIONAL COFFEE WEEK Belo Horizonte, Brazil http://semanainternacionaldocafe. com.br/en/
OCTOBER 12–13 ALLEGRA WORLD COFFEE PORTAL CEO FORUM New York, New York allegraceoforum.com
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OCTOBER
NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 3–12 KONA COFFEE CULTURAL FESTIVAL Kona, Hawaii konacoffeefest.com
OCTOBER 12–16 CHINA XIAMEN INTERNATIONAL TEA FAIR Xiamen, Fujian Province, China http://teafair.com.cn/en
NOVEMBER 6–8 NAMA COFFEE, TEA & WATER Grapevine, Texas coffeeteaandwater.org
OCTOBER 13–15 NEW YORK COFFEE FESTIVAL New York, New York newyorkcoffeefestival.com
NOVEMBER 9–12 CAFE SHOW SEOUL Seoul, Korea cafeshow.com
OCTOBER 13–15 COFFEE FEST Portland, Oregon coffeefest.com
NOVEMBER 9–12 WORLD BARISTA CHAMPIONSHIP Seoul, Korea worldbaristachampionship.org
October 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine
2017–18 Coffee & Tea Trade Shows, Classes & Competitions
NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 9–12 SINTERCAFE Herradura, Costa Rica www.sintercafe.com
NOVEMBER 12–13 HX: THE HOTEL EXPERIENCE ROOMS TO RESTAURANTS New York, New York thehotelexperience.com
NOVEMBER 16–18 WORLD TEA & COFFEE EXPO Mumbai, India worldteacoffeeexpo.com
DECEMBER DECEMBER 2–3 COFFEE & TEA FESTIVAL VALLEY FORGE Valley Forge, Pennsylvania coffeeandteafestival.com
DECEMBER 3–6 INTERNATIONAL COFFEE & CHOCOLATE EXHIBITION Riyadh, Saudi Arabia coffeechoco-expo.com
DECEMBER 14–16 INTERNATIONAL COFFEE & TEA FESTIVAL Dubai, United Arab Emirates coffeeteafest.com
JANUARY 2018 JANUARY 25–27 CAFE MALAYSIA Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.cafe-malaysia.com
FEBRUARY 2018 FEBRUARY 14–16 AFRICAN FINE COFFEE CONFERENCE & EXHIBITION Kampala, Uganda https://afca.coffee/conference/
MARCH 2018 MARCH 4–6 INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT & FOODSERVICE SHOW New York City, New York www.internationalrestaurantny.com
MARCH 9–11 AMSTERDAM COFFEE FESTIVAL Amsterdam, Netherlands www.amsterdamcoffeefestival.com
MARCH 15–17 NCA ANNUAL CONVENTION New Orleans, Louisiana ncausa.org
MARCH 15–17 COFFEE & TEA RUSSIAN EXPO Moscow, Russia https://coffeetearusexpo.ru/en
Fresh Cup Magazine « freshcup.com
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ADVERTISER Index Go to freshcup.com/resources/fresh-cup-advertisers to view the Advertiser Index and the websites listed below. ADVERTISER
CONTACT
ONLINE
Add a Scoop Supplement
415.382.6535
addascoop.com
63
AeroPress
650.493.3050
aeropressinc.com
52
American Barista & Coffee School
800.655.3955
coffeebusiness.com
Art of Tea
213.493.6518
wholesale.artoftea.com
Astoria
336.393.0224
astoria.com
Barista Pro Shop
866.776.5288
baristaproshop.com/ad/fresh
Brewista
888.538.8683
mybrewista.com
26
Café Femenino Foundation
360.901.8322
coffeecan.org
73
Caffe D’Vita
800.200.5005
caffedvita.com
5
Cappuccine
800.511.3127
cappuccine.net
Caravan Coffee
503.538.7365
caravancoffee.com
Coffee & Tea Festival
631.940.7290
coffeeandteafestival.com
Coffee Fest
425.295.3300
coffeefest.com
Coffee Planet
310.880.5337
coffeeplanet.com
35
Curtis
800.421.6150
wilburcurtis.com
19
Custom Cup Sleeves
888-672-4096
customcupsleeves.com
63
DaVinci Gourmet
800.640.6779
davincigourmet.com
53
Descamex
844.472.8429
descamex.com
44
Ditting
810.367.7125
ditting.com
13
FETCO
800.338.2699
fetco.com
46
Flair Flexible Packaging
888.202.3052
flairpackaging.com
55
Franke/BKON
info@bkonbrew.com
bkonbrew.com
31
Fresh Cup Magazine
503.236.2587
freshcup.com
59
Ghirardelli Chocolate
800.877.9338
ghirardelli.com/professional
Golden Bean
310.266.2827
goldenbean.com
Gosh That’s Good! Brand
888.848.GOSH (4674)
goshthatsgood.com
Grandstand Glassware + Apparel
800.767.8951
egrandstand.com/coffee
2
Healthy Kids Concepts
916.730.5275
healthykidsconcepts.org
54
Holy Kakow
503.484.8316
holykakow.com
25
Huhtamaki
800.244.6382
us.huhtamaki.com
51
Java Jacket
800.208.4128
javajacket.com
37
Malabar Gold Espresso
650.366.5453
malabargoldespresso.com
29
Micro Matic/JoeTap
866.327.4159
micromatic.com/JoeTap
Monin Gourmet Flavorings
855.FLAVOR1 (352.8671)
monin.com
Mountain Cider Co.
800.483.2416
mountaincider.com
55
Mr. Espresso
510.287.5200
mrespresso.com
27
Oregon Chai
888.874.CHAI (2424)
kerryfoodservice.com/brands/oregon-chai
11
Oregon Coffee Board
admin@oregoncoffeeboard.org
oregoncoffeeboard.org
54
Pacific Foods
503.692.9666
pacificfoods.com/foodservice
Promac
844.776.6221
promac-usa.com
40
RetailMugs.com
970.222.9559
retailmugs.com
63
SelbySoft
800.454.4434
selbysoft.com
13
SerendipiTea
888.TEA.LIFE (832.5433)
serendipitea.com
65
Service Ideas
800.328.4493
serviceideas.com
26
Smartfruit
800.801.7330
drinksmartfruit.com
39
Sonofresco
360.757.2800
sonofresco.com
37
StixToGo
800.666.6655
royalpaper.com
30
TEA House Times, The
973.551.9161
theteahousetimes.com
63
TeaSource
855.320.4832
teasource.com
43
Theta Ridge Coffee
800.745.8738
thetaridgecoffee.com
65
Toddy
888.863.3974
toddycafe.com
Torani
800.775.1925
torani.com/foodservice
Vessel Drinkware
855.883.7735
vesseldrinkware.com
Your Brand Café
866.566.0390
yourbrandcafe.com
Zojirushi America
800.264.6270
zojirushi.com
October 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine
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The BACK PAGE
Bonus content, interview quickies, and sweet tunes to sip to.
5
MINUTES
with Sean Edwards WE’RE ON SPOTIFY! This month, we’ve got Halloween on the braaaainnnss, so we created a themed playlist of classic spooky tunes and some surprises for your shops and parties. The Kids Don’t Stand a Chance » Vampire Weekend Psycho Killer » Talking Heads Somebody’s Watching Me » Rockwell Midnight City » M83 (Don’t Fear) The Reaper » Blue Öyster Cult Conversation 16 » The National Peek-A-Boo » Siouxsie and the Banshees Heads Will Roll » Yeah Yeah Yeahs Thriller » Michael Jackson Superstition » Stevie Wonder
WHAT DO YOU DO, AND WHY? I run the Golden Bean. We built a competition for coffee roasters because they weren’t getting any real recognition as the people behind the supply chain. Baristas were getting all the glam, so we thought we should reward the supply chain first.
Dead Man’s Party » Oingo Boingo
WHAT IS YOUR GO-TO COFFEE CAMPING TOOL? AeroPress and ceramic grinder.
Walking with a Ghost » Tegan and Sara
WHAT IS YOUR COFFEE ORDER WHEN YOU FIRST VISIT A CAFÉ? Piccolo latte. In the States you call it a cortado, but a cortado is a little bit bigger. The piccolo is a ristretto shot with about four ounces of warm milk.
Heathens » Twenty One Pilots
WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? I was an electrician for fifteen years in Australia’s coal mining industry, but then I got into coffee via backpacking the world.
Evil Woman » Electric Light Orchestra
74
October 2017 » Fresh Cup Magazine
Everyday is Halloween » Ministry Bela Lugosi’s Dead » Bauhaus
The Boogie Monster » Gnarls Barkley Season of the Witch » Donovan Hungry Like the Wolf » Duran Duran
Find us on Spotify: Type spotify:user:freshcupmag into the search bar and follow us for more café-friendly playlists.
PH OTO BY HA LEY AUSTIN PHOTO GRAPHY
DESCRIBE YOUR FIRST AHA COFFEE MOMENT IN FIVE WORDS OR LESS. Fresh-roasted Ethiopia Limu.
Zombie » The Cranberries