VOLUME 01 FREE IS BETTER THAN CHEAP
ED’s note Thanks to a project at university, now I am here creating my own online publication titled FRESH. Living in Hong Kong you could say that I am blessed to be surrounded by fashion, in such an accessible manner. You could also say that what I’ve said is bull, because fashion is not just about trends, but should be more on style. This city seems to be all about big brands, and steep price tags. It would be my honour to challenge these norms, and kind of introduce people to great alternatives. FRESH will be a platform for people that aren’t overrated. This is a place to promote young talent of any kind, who actually needs to be featured. Young does not necessarily have to be in the context of age, but also comments on the freshness of their body of work. Issue 01 is more or less a soft launch, giving you peeps an overview of what sort of things FRESH will cover. Stay tuned for Issue 02 coming out in either in late Aug or early Sept. Thank you to all the contributors, and people who “likes” our Facebook page. Without their support, FRESH would not have existed, nor do I believe I would have the fire to continue it. It wouldn’t hurt if you spread the word out about this new born online mag! Peace, M.
TEAM Founder Michael Cheung contact@themichaelcheung.com Contributors Awon Golding, Jeff Hahn, Konstantin Resch, Yulia Barbashova, Ren Wan, Irene Lenoir, Ellen Ryan, Lavinia Smith, Monique Smith, Dana Slosar, Karina Tsui, Wai Lin Tse, Emerald Grippa, and Aaron De La Cruz. Special thanks to: Coby Ma, Raphael, and Virginia Wong at WARDROBE K
Reproduction in whole or part without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. ©2011 Fresh Magazine Limited. www.f-r-e-s-h-m-a-g.blogspot.com
HUH - NEWS/EVENTS < Cheap Monday SS 2011 Show At far, the models seems to be wearing dreadlocks at Cheap Mondays’s Autumn/Winter 2011 show. It was merely a comment on how idiosyncratic the hairstyle could be, but more so, the team wanted to create a story based on the future. Dreaming a world packed with garbage, where human in tracksuits live on spaceships, while robots are busy clearing up. Crinkled-sheer fabrics and organza suggested all day nudity when we no longer need to step outside. Rubberized denim and dirty tints further reiterated the dark, futuristic look. Even with their somber perspective on what might lie beneath us, the crew behind Cheap Monday created a collection that’s worth dying over! cheapmonday.com
Where Dreams Are Made > We love this version of the classic “I Heart New York” tee by Montana Knox. Obviously New Yorkers are agreeing with our taste, as it was out of stock for a while. For all tourists out there, please go for this alternative while stocks are back. montanaknox.com
< Thief & Bandit Jewellery DIY has been around the corner for a while. What is so refreshing about Thief & Bandit by Amie Cunningham is that she makes shredded tees look amazing. It all started out from a tee she did for a show. She ended up with a pile of effed up tees along the way, and seem convinced that she can do something with them. Long story short, she now sells these one of-a-kind pieces on her website. Everything is made by her small team of local talents, interns, and obviously Cunningham herself. She does not plan to manufacture nor send her designs to be made in China. It’s all about keeping it real. thiefandbandit.com
Surfer Boy > What’s the point of wearing shorts if they aren’t short? We definitely have an eye on these bold coloured combo swimmers by Peruvian brand, Olasul. If they are a bit vivid for your taste, the brand also sells other styles, plus a range sun-faded tees and sweatshirts. They are a bit more expensive than let’s say Quiksilver, or Volcom. But we believe that it might just be worth every penny, using Peruvian Puma cotton with everything cut-and-sewn in Peru. olasul.com
< Pulled If you are looking for a book that teaches you how to screen print from scratch, don’t bother reading further. Pulled – A catalog of screen printing is a new book by the PA Press, compiled and edited by the multi-talented Mike Perry. It’s more than just a coffee table book, as it features a range of young artists and designers. It does not teach the viewers how, but more on what contemporary screen printing could be. This will be one of the few books that you actually will “pull’ out from your shelf. mikeperrystudio.com
< Pimped Up Vans This is not exactly a collab between Hermes and Vans. These are actually customised kicks that Vans exclusively produced for the celebrity stylist, Robert Verdi. He simply asked the company to take his vintage Hermes scarves, and make them into pairs of shoes. Don’t say that Bieber didn’t tell you never say never. vans.co.uk
Focus Film: The Bully Project > All kids from around the world experience bullying in some stage of their childhood, but for some reason we hear more stories about it in America. The Bully Project by Lee Hirsch is the first ever feature documentary film that focuses on the struggles of real kids across the US, which premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival on April 23rd. The documentary would not have become a success story without the youngsters that took part. These kids should be applauded by their bravery, while the rest of the 5 million American children who are or have been bullied live in negligence. It would be naïve to think that the documentary will stop others from such acts. We simply hope that it would lead numerous youngsters to seek help, and speak out. thebullyproject.com
HAIRLADY Feature: Emerald Grippa
There are slight hints of fashion in Emerald Grippa’s illustrations, what FRESH loves is that she does not play upon it in such a literal sense. We got to talk to her about her recent works, what shampoo she uses, and everything in between. Your artworks are mainly fashion driven. What about fashion do you love most? Colour combinations, bold styling, quirky proportions, and texture. I am really drawn to a couple collections at the moment, like Rodarte’s Fall 2010 & Jil Sanders Spring 2011. They both used colour and pattern in such a playful way and I adore. In Rodarte’s collection, the fabrics looked as if was almost slithering around the body. The intricacies you find in fashion, those little details that make a garment special and unique, that quality really speaks to me and inspires that attention to detail in my work. Your recent exhibition “Extension” is focused on the beauty of hair. Whose hair do you envy, and what shampoo do you use? I would give anything to have Brooke Shields’ hair, but I would also love to have all of Charlie Le Mindu’s hair pieces. I am obsessed with his collections, they are over the top and just brilliant. I swear by Suave Professionals Almond & Shea Butter Shampoo and Conditioner. Do the mediums you use, play a significant role in your art? If you didn’t use graphite, and watercolour, would it affect the aesthetic and meaning behind the work? Yes to both. I have become very comfortable with using graphite and I feel like it has become the bases for my work, no matter what I can’t stay away from using it. With this past show I knew I wanted to use watercolor in some way, I had been sketching small hair pieces in watercolour , which were turning out so much like my previous graphite pieces. It was exciting to see them work together and show this ghost-like delicacy within the series. What’s your favourite colour? Pale pink. Your pet peeves are, or let’s say do you have any? Biting my nails When have you started drawing? As your website, only shows works from 2008 onwards. My father, Francisco Grippa, is a painter and I’ve always looked up to his successes as an artist. I drew and doodled my way through high school, until I was accepted into the Communication Arts program at Virginia Commonwealth University. I was surrounded by working professionals and finally thought I might have a chance making a living doing this! It wasn’t until 2008, the year I graduated, that I found my style of drawing and pursued a career as an Illustrator.
Where do you find inspiration? Are you one of those people like me, who spend hours in second-hand book stores? Everywhere, just walking around the block the other day I found amazing colour combinations I wouldn’t have found anywhere else. It is exciting when you explore your surroundings, especially with a camera. I just got “The Principles of Uncertainty” by Maira Kalma, and her work does a wonderful job of cataloging her life through the events of her daily life. What are you trying to evoke through your art? Femininity and beauty. If you weren’t an artist, what would you be pursuing instead? I had always wanted a little boutique selling vintage and antique finds for the home. The amazing thing is I do have an online store, named Tiques that sells just that (www.tiques.etsy.com). Thrift and junk stores are heaven to me, you really can find anything. My mother says that, your best friends are those from your childhood. Would you agree? I think that childhood connection will never be regained with anyone else, but I do feel you will have multiple best friends throughout your life. What makes a person youthful or young? Being open minded Do you like daydreaming? Of course, I do it every day. What’s your daily routine like? I go on a lot of tangents throughout the day, being my own boss is something I am still trying to get used to. I usually start the day sketching and playing around with watercolors, this encourages me to try new ideas and techniques. Depending on projects I am working on I go on drawing binges in my studio working until I have reached a good stopping point, and then coming back periodically to make changes. I am constantly looking for new projects and other ways for my work to grow, which keeps me rather busy and I love it! emeraldgrippa.com
Feature: Wai Lin Tse
LET’S GET DOWN IN
BARCELONA Barcelona rose, and now based photographer Wai Lin Tse, used to be quite a successful fashion designer herself. She worked for Urban Outfitters on some look books not so long ago, and done work for Apartamento, and Pig mag. Barcelona rose, and now based photographer used to be quite a successful fashion designer herself. She worked for Urban Outfitters on some look books not so long ago, and done work for Apartamento, and Pig mag.
So you’re based in Barcelona right? What made you move there? I’ve lived here when I was a child, with my mother and her family. What was your upbringing like? My childhood has been torn between two countries. With my Catalan mother in a small town near Barcelona, and spent my holidays in Oxford, UK, with my father, and his side of the family. I felt like I had not one childhood, but two. Although this has been said, they were still bonded by my will to create things. My mother always worked until pretty late; therefore I took a lot of extracurricular activities like painting, ceramics, ballet, and different kinds of stuff. I also did the same stuff to get the day through while I was in the UK, as a child. In one of your interviews, it said that you have just pursued photography as a profession only a couple years back. How did you book jobs? When I first started off, I was more concerned about my development. People somehow noticed my work, and gradually clients hired me for different projects. Do you do a lot of test shoots? Not really. I only do test shoots, only if I find a model that I feel could convey a real story, where I then attempt to make an editorial out of. Black and white or colour? Both.
What do you think about Hong Kong as a city? Bland, or there is something different about it? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fascinating city. I used to visit there as a child, where I was stunned by the clash of the rural, and its city. I stayed with my grandfather in a small village outside of Sai Kung, surrounded by the mountains, a very isolated area. I would take the minibus to the city, and find myself in one of the most developed and bustling cities! The extreme contrast is definitely intriguing.
Leading to my next question. What makes a great model, since that the market consistently stocks up new faces. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not just about the physicality, personal plays a huge role. Which one are you learning more as? A technical obsessive photographer, or more of a romanticist? A romanticist. Each photographer works differently with their subject matter. How do you make the models feel comfortable under your lens? This is a reoccurring issue, that I always find challenging. I always try to get to know the subject (model) better, make them feel at home. On the other hand, some models just naturally feels confident in front a camera, and does not need much direction whatsoever.
What makes you stay optimistic? Projects, and being around the people I love. Single-to-mingle, or occupied? Occupied What makes you stay optimistic? The Man From Beijing by Henning Mankell Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your definition of beauty? A good vibe, or feeling. wailintse.com
Feature: AARON DE LA CRUZ
MURAL
NINJA He is known for his abstract murals which are evident on the streets of California. But as FRESH talks to Aaron De La Cruz, we find out that there is more to him than just a mural master. His has a packed schedule, juggling the balance of family and his career, with the recent Mano Y Mano exhibition in Hong Kong alongside Samuel Rodriguez, and numerous commissions waiting for him at home. This seems to be just a start of something amazing – for him and for us viewers.
Do you think that labour is an important aspect in art? In the work that I do, I feel that labour is a very important aspect especially physical labor. I’m not sure if the labour I’m referring to is what you meant, but coming from a family of immigrants and always wondering how my parents felt as children worked 10+ hour days in the fields. I try my hardest to put myself in their shoes when working hard, I doubt that I will come close to it though. When creating a piece I usually am standing the entire time, where I try to use my entire body in terms of physical interaction with my work which keeps me in motion and I like that. I used to do a lot of work on the computer but have since moved away from it, as I felt disconnected from the work itself due to the lack of fun I was having. The computer is still an important tool, but I quite enjoy not using it as much anymore, in terms to creating work on firsthand. In an interview, you’ve said that you would like to push your murals as far as you can – in terms of space. How do you know when to stop, and to tell yourself ‘that’s enough’? When I agree to work on a specific space or wall I usually have the area that I want to cover planned out, so knowing when to stop is not the hard part. There have been times when I have gone around edges or on to ceilings because I felt the designs had to be continued. It would be interesting to see your designs/patterns/art as a print for a tee, or a tote bag. Do you see this as a possibility in the near future? Yes I do. Funny you say that I actually used to hand screen print my own tees back in the day, and I think that the tee itself is one of the strongest mediums out there in terms of getting your work into public. I wouldn’t mind working with a company, and creating on some apparel designs. Anyone interested?
If you ever had your own clothing label, what would you name it as? Well I started my first label when I was nineteen called “DLC”, and then was involved in another one called “dvlpmntl”. Both labels did well, but only sold a few hundred shirts. The clothing thing is fun but definitely not something I want to do full time. What did it feel like exhibiting in a foreign country? Were you inspired by Hong Kong at all? If so, in what aspect of the city? Exhibiting in Hong Kong was a very great experience. I was hesitant to create large scale pieces for the show as people in HK don’t have large wall space, or at least the audience that I was showing to. Hopefully, the one large piece finds a happy home. Hong Kong has inspired me a lot, in terms of its distinctive culture, and lifestyle patterns. Although this has been said, I am not quite sure if this will inspire the aesthetic of my future work. The city seems to be built on hills, very similar to San Francisco, but there are so many more layers, and hidden alleys that confuse you at times, maybe because I am new to this city. I’ve noticed that you like to listen to music, while working (on your art). Does it help you anyway, in regards of inspiring you to create? Man I love to listen to music and actually I love too dance if the song is a hit. Yes, it helps me, I love to listen to old school jams that remind me of my childhood most of the time.
How did you start receiving commission work? I have always been told that my paintings would make an interesting wallpaper, table, textile, and the list goes on … so a lot of times people have asked me to create something custom for them. In recent years projects have become larger in scale, and have been on walls which I muchly prefer. I’ve actually been getting money create art since I was 12 years old, mostly drawing classmates names. At a very young age, I figured that getting paid for my time was a part of the deal. I don’t see any harm in receiving commission to create work, as long as the client respects what I do and gives me creative control. What art mediums are you dying to explore next on? Precious metals, wood, ceramics, 3-D surface man I can go on and on! What are your feelings towards the word “procrastination”? I’m a huge fan of procrastination you just have to know how to master it.
What are you trying to get out of the whole experience of creating art? Do you see it more as a sense of accomplishment, or is it something more, something else? I’m trying to travel more and cover this globe up with the De La Cruz touch. I see being able to create art, and to have the public’s interest on my work a pretty big deal. I am definitely grateful that people seem to be supportive. What does “success” even mean? I don’t know what “success” is exactly, but when people say “you are a successful artist” my mind draws a blank and I want to ask them what does being a successful artist mean to them. I want to do a lot in life, and by just achieving one of those numerous goals of mines, that will deemed a successful moment. aarondelacruz.com
Editorial: CHEAP MONDAY Special
Photography & Styling by Michael Cheung Models Karina Tsui, Monique Smith, Lavinia Smith & Dana Slosar @ Model Genesis (www.modelgenesis.com), and Ellen Ryan @ Retro Models (www.retro.com.hk) Special thanks to Anne Batterham and Claire Lo Wardrobe from Cheap Monday S/S 11â&#x20AC;?
Rhoda denim dress.
Ivana sweater.
Blue denim jean jacket, and phat scraping lilac jeans.
UU Tallulah tank.
Stylist’s own.
Vanessa denim shirt.
Tanya tank.
Ivana sweater, and sea blue wash jean skirt.
It’s Cheap to ask
Yulia Barbashova Where are you from? Ukraine
Awon Golding
Your job title? Have been modelling for a while, and now venturing into photography as a part-time job.
Where are you from? Hong Kong
What is ‘youth’ to you? Living free
Your job title? Milliner
What has been the best part of your childhood? When I went to School ... it was so much fun!
What is ‘youth’ to you? A term used to describe a state of mind rather than a state of being...maybe I’m only saying this because I’m getting old ;-)
Your teenage dream was? To become a surgeon.
What has been the best part of your childhood? Growing up on Lamma Island and having the freedom to be a kid without growing up too fast. Your teenage dream was? To be a vet and move to Africa...and date Keanu Reeves. The worst date was with? A lot of first dates I’ve had. I usually end up getting so nervous that I try to say something funny which ends up sounding quite the opposite, perfect example of this is when I told a first date that I have a dick. What is your favourite denim style? I generally go for comfort and wearability over trend. I wear flat shoes almost every day so the length has to be perfect. The naughtiest thing you’ve done in a pair of jeans? Shoplifting. I vividly remember shoving several expensive bikinis into the waist band of my jeans and walking out of the shop. What have you been up to lately? Just got back from an incredible holiday to southern India. It’ll be a big influence on my upcoming hat collections. I say Cheap, you say …? ...and cheerful. It’s a tenet that’s seen me through many years of parties and wardrobes. There’s nothing wrong with a bit of 7-Eleven and Topshop! Check out her rad collection of hats, at www. awongolding.com
The worst date was with? The worst date was when the guy came an hour late and didn’t apologize at all. He made it clear that it didn’t phase him, since that he was a wealthy and powerful man. What is your favourite denim style? Skinny jeans! The naughtiest thing you’ve done in a pair of jeans? Hmmm... hahaha. One story comes to my mind........ I remember once I stripped on the street in the rain. What have you been up to lately? Photography I say Cheap, you say ...? Affordable :) Yuliia is currently represented by Pinkerton Model & Talent Co. in Los Angeles
IRENE LENOIR Where are you from? Marseille, France Your job title? Founder/Manager of Le Manoir Equivocal What is ‘youth’ to you? The period between childhood and adulthood. Youth to me is being aware of and understanding the latest things coming out in the world. What has been the best part of your childhood? When I was 12 to 16, where I was riding my bike day and night! Your teenage dream was? To become a Lady with bizzaz and that pretty feeling of freedom. The worst date was with? I was once so clumsy that I kissed my new boyfriend (at that time) on the cheek to say hi, because I forgot I was supposed to kiss him on the lips as we were officialy together. After that, he spent the evening looking away completely frightened by me. What is your favourite denim style? I would say Levis, but I don’t really wear jeans at all. I’m from “before old school”. The naughtiest thing you’ve done in a pair of jeans? I usually do naughty things without my jeans on. What have you been up to lately? Building up a dream on tolerance, curiousity, and open-mindness between China and Europe with art, wine and medieval stones. I say Cheap, you say …? Non-Sustainable
Jeff Hahn Where are you from? Here There & Everywhere Your job title? Photographer What is ‘youth’ to you? It’s something I need to remember that I belong to. What has been the best part of your childhood? The end of it. Your teenage dream was? To fly far away and never return. The worst date was with? Haven’t had a worst date yet. What is your favourite denim style? I love my (housemate’s) wool-lined denim jacket. The naughtiest thing you’ve done in a pair of jeans? Stuck my penis out a hole that formed. What have you been up to lately? Just shot a campaign in Paris and now retouching in London, thinking about the pub tonight. I say Cheap, you say …? Drinks! View his portfolio at www.jeff-hahn.com
Ren wan Where are you from? Hong Kong Your job title? Hong Kong Correspondent for Ming Magazine. What is ‘youth’ to you? Boldness and Fantasy Well-lived. What has been the best part of your childhood? The best part of childhood is those good times with old friends. When we could still have time and energy for all-week fun without having to think of work, life, money and etc. Not that it’s the time when we thought of nothing but fun, but at least we do not have to worry about the doomsday and climate change, and be honest and bold enough to go after what we wanted. It was the time for pure passion. Your teenage dream was? To be a designer - I thought it’s the best job in the world. Of course life has taught me a lot about the dark side of the industry. The worst date was with? Argh, can’t even be bothered to think of the guy. A guy who kept talking about his rich family and his “beauty secrets”. What is your favourite denim style? Definitely skinny jeans. They are for the confident. Lately I’m very much into worn-out and bleached effects. (I got a new pair from D-mop by Wash Reborn. pretty good!) The naughtiest thing you’ve done in a pair of jeans? Guess what, the best and flirtatious design I have ever seen is definitely Lucky Brand Jeans (the design not that cool though). The “lucky you” label on the zip fly is really naughty. My naughtiest act was telling my boyfriend to find that tag. What have you been up to lately? I am busy finishing articles, while digging good stories for the MAY issue. Going to Penang very soon, but I still haven’t prepared! I say Cheap, you say …? I say cost consciousness and being smart.
Konstantin Where are you from? Was born in Kamyshin (Russia/UDSSR haha) - grew up in Düsseldorf (Germany). Your job title? Uni student and Model. What is ‘youth’ to you? Being free from heavy thoughts or bonds to material world. What has been the best part of your childhood? Growing up in the rural area, where it is peaceful, natural, and authentic. The opposite of what people want you to be, when you’re growing up. Your teenage dream was? To become an Olympic swimmer. The worst date was with? Had a bunch of those, mostly with German chicks. They seemed very superficial and artificial. What is your favourite denim style? Nice pair of skinny Jeans or Straight-legs The naughtiest thing you’ve done in a pair of jeans? I guess it would put me to jail, telling you such things! Haha What have you been up to lately? Traveling around, studying life and world:) I say Cheap, you say …? Egoism and capitalism. Konstantin is currently represented by Place Models in Hamburg, and Elite London.
All Sunnies by Cheap Monday. For more information, visit www.cheapmonday.com
Illustrations by Claire Fawcett
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