UNCOVER ME.
Fashion Forecasting & Narrative - AD5605 ‘UNCOVER ME’ Freya Davidson
3
OUTSET... 6-11
FURTHERING THE TREND... 12-15
CONTENTS
VISIONARY BOARDS... 16-19
4
THE REFLECTION... 20-23 COLOUR/MATERIALS... 24-29 CONSUMER PROFILE... 30-37 IDENTITY SEEKERS
SUSTAINABILITY... 38-43 INFLUENCES... 44-47 MAISON MARGIELA
MARKET LEVEL... 48-51 EPILOGUE... 52-55 REFERENCES... 58-60
5
OUTSET
As we return back to ‘normality’ or should we say, an unfamiliar normality. We are beginning to catch sight of a new reality; this new reality feels very much mismatched in comparison to the life we lived prior to the pandemic. COVID-19 restrictions coupled with perpetual announcements from the government to ‘stay home’ and ‘protect lives’ has not only changed the way life operates, but it has also changed the way people opt to live. A much slower pace of life.
Trend package for
‘LIFE ON MARS’ ‘UNCOVER ME’ defines the idea of revealing our hidden
identity to the world, on account of this idea existing as a clean slate for humanity.
‘UNCOVER ME’ will act as a clean slate in terms of starting anew on Mars, we will slowly unravel ourselves from the discomfort of which the face mask has generated and begin to discover our identity again. As the creators of this next chapter of which we are about to embark on, it is in our hands to rethink how we could ‘EXPOSE BUT PROTECT’ at the same time, we don’t want to ever have to experience the challenges that the face mask has triggered in terms of our identity. ‘IDENTIFY ME’ will be the new ‘UNCOVER ME’, the future of the face mask will enable one to recognize people they know. 6
IDENTIFY ME From the outset of the mandatory enforcement of the face mask. As a collective, we have all encountered contrasting experiences from wearing the face mask. For some, this involved general discomfort, for others, the removing of the face mask for the first time induced feelings of anxiety for the reason that they may not be recognized without the mask or the common feeling of being uncomfortable without it. We became attached to the mask, and so removing it for the first time gave off an uneasy and incomplete feeling. Our identity has been concealed to the point where even technology can’t recognize us. We have become strangers to our own objects, particularly our mobile phones of which refuse our desire to carry out transactions through Apple Pay.
9
“Faces are one of the most informative visual phenomena in humans and play a vital role in communication and daily interaction in society,” researchers noted that “The unprecedented effort to minimize Covid-19 transmission has created a new challenge in facial recognition due to mask-wearing”. To study the effects of face masks, the two researchers conducted a test on a large group of around 500 masked and unmasked faces using a modified version of the Cambridge face memory test. Used to assess recognition and facial perception, the test was conducted online. Results showed that the success rate of identifying someone wearing a mask was reduced by 15%. (Face masks disrupt
facial perception - Know what researchers have to say, 2021).
the idea to amend the current face mask was something that we all could’ve predicted due to the lack of wearability. Since the beginning of the pandemic, we have been advised to wear face masks in indoor public spaces as they are supposed to protect and minimise the spread of the virus. However, ultimately, a piece of fabric on a string is not going to protect us from future epidemics or, even on mars.
10
LEARNING TO LOVE
OURSELVES AGAIN 13
EXPOSE BUT PROTECT . What is meant by the term ‘EXPOSE BUT PROTECT’? whilst looking into the future of the face mask and the potential for it to embody the most important aspect, of which is wearability (the main selling point). The idea for the mask to be multi purposeful will most likely attract a wider audience, with this in mind, the mask will continue to expose our identity whilst protecting ourselves from the unknown. As previously mentioned, the main selling point of which is wearability will adopt the phrase ‘EXPOSE BUT PROTECT’. This phrase presents as the communicator and will enable the consumer to have a deeper understanding of the purpose of this product.
14
VISIONARY SECONDARY IMAGES
16
BOARD
The secondary visionary boards pictured above display a strong vision and combine everything related to this trend including, materials, colour, inspiration, sustainability etc. In addition, the visual boards also undertake the role of the trend package for the future forecast of ‘LIFE ON MARS’. As part of the trend ‘UNCOVER ME’, our identity will play a huge part in who we are on Mars. For example, ‘you are what you wear’ refers to the mask in particular and how we will be recognized due to the nature and design of this product. To expand on my written narrative for my trend package, It is of utmost importance to heavily emphasize the word ‘PROTECTION’ and the role it will undertake within. The intention is to focus on the idea of protection of all body parts, this idea is deemed appropriate because we will essentially be heading in the direction of the unknown, therefore, it is important that we are prepared for unknown events. Furthering this narrative, the visual on the next page of a person pictured in a bubble suit also portrays the ‘EXPOSE BUT PROTECT IDEA’, we will be protected head to toe, but wrapped up in layers of exposable material.
18
Furthering the development of my trend, I began looking into colour. I wanted my colour palette and materials to represent my trend and possess a strong compatibility. This led me into further developments of my trend as I appointed “THE REFLECTION” as the focal point, “THE REFLECTION” serves as the new identity, revealing that our identities will no longer be concealed by the piece of material that covers half of our face. The visual to the left communicates this idea of the damage to the coat being irreversible, but the reflection mirroring a brighter future in another universe, this also acts as a reference to the damage of planet earth.
THE REFLECTION 21
Combining the development of my trend concept with the focal point – ‘THE REFLECTION’, I began to engage with the idea of collecting primary photos with the support of a photoshoot to finalize the representation of what we would look like on Mars. The materials used in this shoot consist of reflective materials ONLY due to ‘THE REFLECTION’ being the primary focus, this included materials and objects such as tinfoil, reflective jacket etc. Experimenting with different lighting enabled me to capture the reflectiveness and the metallic shine of which will exist as the mirror of a better tomorrow. As reflective materials exist for the purpose of increasing visibility in the darkness, I concocted the idea of the reflectiveness of our clothing also being our safety protector from the unprecedented events on Mars.
WHAT WOULD WE LOOK LIKE ON MARS 22
24
Once I appointed “THE REFLECTION” as the focal point of this idea, I began looking into the materials that could be the most suitable and durable to sustain the unknown conditions on Mars. THE REFLECTION is one of the main aspects, however, transparent materials would also fit into this as it refers back to our identity and how, through the help of the modified face mask, we can see each other. Therefore, the transparent surfaces and materials aid this idea because again it will increase visibility, the vision for the face mask will almost be a replica of sunglasses in terms of the transparent lens of which allows light to pass through. In summary, reflectiveness and transparency are the two key words within this idea, they both carry meaning of the bigger picture of this trend, which is all about healing and creating a better tomorrow, through this idea of revealing ourselves and learning to self-love again with our new found identity.
25
The symbolization of the colour white as shown above has led me to adopt it to my current colour palette. Why? Because, it represents everything related to my chosen trend. Purity = freedom from the suffocation. Innocence = it wasn’t a choice. Clean = the added layers of protection compensate for the unsanitary environments. Simple = accessibility to resources will be more prominent. Clarity = easy to recognize. New beginnings = embarking on a new journey, both trend and future habitat. Safety = protection from the unknown – reflectiveness and layers. Empowerment = the responsibility to rewrite mistakes made at present. As a result of COVID-19, we as humans have become conditioned to sanitize and disinfect ourselves and surfaces to prevent the spread of the virus, hygiene will be a big part of ‘UNCOVER ME’. We will have layers of protection over our body, gloves to prevent exposed skin touching contaminated surfaces. Mars may well be known as the red planet, but the interior of life will be white, everything will be to an excessive state in terms of cleanliness. The colour white will be known as the safety zone, this is the interior. The colour red will be known as the danger zone, this is the exterior. Before one steps out of the safety zone, you are required to purify and clothe yourself in protective bubble-like suits. White provides us with hope and comfort based on what the future may hold. Life has become too complex as a result of the pandemic, the colour white will help put the consumers mind at ease knowing that life will follow a much more effortless and simple path, the consumer will live a balanced life, split between work and spare time, but it will proceed at a much slower pace allowing one to appreciate the present moments.
WHITE IS OUR COMFORT ZONE 26
PUR ITY INNOC ENCECLEANS I M P L E CLARITY NEW BEGINNINGS
SAFETY CONTENT EMPOWERMENT
29
30
THE IDENTITY SEEKERS THE IDENTITY SEEKERS THE IDENTITY SEEKERS
31
CONSUMER PROFILE
IDENTITYSEEKERS After affirming my idea for my trend prediction, based around the idea of future life on Mars, I set upon researching trend forecasting agencies of the likes of WGSN and Fashion Snoops NYC to gain a deeper understanding of how pinpointing the ideal consumer is an important part of the process. In order to do this, we have to research our target consumers interests, behaviours and buying habits and how they might influence one to buy into a product or service. With regards to trend forecasting, every decision made should take into consideration how the consumer may respond, this could be as simple as choosing a colour palette based on how the consumer might connect to its symbolization. The future consumer for ‘UNCOVER ME’ will exclusively focus on an individual group of consumers within Gen Z of which share the same values, behaviours and interests. THE IDENTITY SEEKERS - identity-seekers strongly believe in the reality and importance of their essential self, and that it is of utmost importance to discern its true nature. They see self-knowledge as the critical prerequisite for everything else in their lives. Without it, they’re unable to know whether they are living authentically or optimally. So, when self-certainty continues to prove slippery and elusive, they start to worry that life will pass them by before they find and actualize themselves. On closer reflection, one can detect an underlying element of perfectionism in the identity-seeker’s outlook, namely, the expectation that their self-knowledge, as well as the external expression of that knowledge, must be perfect in order for them to be happy. (INTP & INFP Identity-Seekers & Creatives).
32
With regards to my trend forecast, identity plays a huge part in future life as it concerns change, moving on from the present where our identity is hidden. As this consumer is part of Gen Z, they will no longer accept the current face mask as it disrupts their ability to self-love and appreciate themselves. For Gen Z, identity is important as it is their individual form of self-expression, in a time where the world is constantly rotating, identity is how one can express their true self to the world. This is a generation that rejects traditional markers like gender and age, which force them to conform to societal expectations, in favour of a fluid identity. For Gen Z, the individual self offers an opportunity to challenge, experiment, and change. They are armed with an array of inspiration from diverse online and offline communities, which feed their curiosity on environmental, social and human rights issues. Rejecting all sorts of labels, Gen Z, especially its teenage members, are designing their own identities based on how they see themselves, and their relationships with their communities and the world. (China’s Gen Z: Identity Explorers, Seekers of the Truth, 2021). .
35
The entirety of Generation Z have been hit the hardest by the pandemic, they have suffered long lasting trauma with regards to their mental health, and for this reason, an optimistic vision of the future that may have been there prior to the pandemic, has now become a blurry vision. As we emerge into this new chapter of LIFE ON MARS, Gen Z have the opportunity to start afresh – an opportunity for them to put the past behind them. UNCOVER ME is just the beginning of how we can innovate and initiate change for the future. As someone who is a part of Gen Z myself, the one thing I can say for sure is that Gen Z are looking to see progression, they speak up more than anyone else, and change is exactly what they need. They have been tested, examined, judged and graded since childhood; told they must excel, compete and succeed. But thanks to Covid-19, across Europe a generation of school and college leavers face a bleak present and an uncertain future. The young were ordered to put their lives on hold to protect a generation that had already lived theirs. At this time in their lives, THE IDENTITY SEEKERS rely on their identity as it is who they are, as a society we have already taken so much from this generation, so to deprive them of the one thing they can carry and be proud of would be unjustified, pandemic or not. Ultimately, I have targeted my ideal consumer towards Gen Z as they are one of the main reasons as to why we are looking into the future of the face mask. Why? Because they have endured the unpleasant experience of the face mask and it is one of the many contributors to each individuals trauma.
36
38
SUSTAINABILITY Sustainability… the topical word within the fashion industry right now. Why? Because it concerns the future of the planet and in turn, humanity. The devastating effects fashion has on the planet has always remained present, but for some reason, we as a society have only begun to embed it into our daily lives. Our everyday life choices have an impact, from our chosen form of transport, where we buy our clothes from and how we dispose of rubbish. Touching on sustainability within my trend, it is unknown what resources we will have available, at hand on Mars, therefore I expect that future design will follow one of two directions, either fashion will be entirely digital or we will reinstate the ‘MAKE DO AND MEND’ method. Referring to my trend, I envision that we will apply the idea of reusing materials. As citizens of planet earth, we have already made mistake after mistake in terms of our lack of compassion for our environment. It is important that we think of moving to Mars as a fresh start, seeing first hand our contribution to the damage we have created through our buying habits will act as a motivator for the consumer to adopt a healthier lifestyle, as the consumer is part of Gen Z, they will be extremely conscious for what they spend their money on, they will continue to be strong advocates for sustainability and they will expect life on Mars to be clean, neat and tidy – no damage or room for mistakes.
39
WE’RE TOO LATE... RESTORING THE PAST MAKE DO AND MEND
40
REINVENTING THE FUTURE.
43
MAISON MARGIELA 44
INFLUENCES 45
After finalizing the concept for my trend, I began to look into what I envision the future of the face mask to resemble. In order to arrive at this point, I set upon looking at fashion shows as I had seen many fashion brands intertwining the face mask as a fashionable everyday accessory to accomplice their collections. To begin with, Maison Margiela AW18 collection. “Volumes – that’s what pushes fashion forward isn’t it? If we don’t play with volumes, however subtle or otherwise you are, it’s the volumes that make the difference,” explained Galliano in The Memory Of… This translated into huge layered looks featuring heavy overcoats lined with what appeared to be insulation fabrics, wide skirts made from quilted bin liners. “It’s a redefinition of how one wears layers,” the designer said. “It’s protective but at the same time it’s fragile, it’s inviting. You want to touch it and squash it – it’s very soft.” (Davidson, 2018). Although, the concept behind Maison Margiela AW18 collection doesn’t particularly have a large association with UNCOVER ME, I chose to pick out different aspects of the collection itself and the concept behind it. The main features of which I have taken inspiration from within the collection depict the excessive layering which act as protection and the use of transparent materials that allow the revealing of the body and face in particular, this is one of the many forms of inspiration I have taken to influence my thinking of how fashion could be used as a form of protection against the unknown.
“It’s a redefinition of how one wears layers,” “It’s protective but at the same time it’s fragile, it’s inviting. You want to touch it and squash it – it’s very soft.”
46
47
As this module is based around the idea of life on Mars, UNCOVER ME forecasts from the point of view of 10, 20 years on from now. Therefore, making it a macro trend. As a result of this, I decided to place my trend in a future context, with a distinct focus on accessible fashion, my reasoning for this is a result of what I believe the consumer will expect in terms of change and innovation. Current market levels within the fashion industry consist of common labels such as Fast Fashion, Luxury, Ready to wear etc. However, with the idea in mind of reforming ways of the fashion industry to meet Gen Z’s needs and expectations, it is important to create an industry of which is centred around the generations that will be residing on mars, Gen Z and Gen Alpha need to be the focus as they are the consumers of the future. To clarify, this idea does not discuss accessible luxury, ready to wear etc, the focus is on accessible fashion as a whole as we move on from the idea of placing labels on everything. For a long time, fashion had a type. Thin, tall, and primarily light-complected. But times are changing. Audiences want to see fashion that’s more inclusive. Open most any fashion magazine today, and while you’ll still see plenty of Kate Moss-era thin models, you’ll also see different races, curvy, short, tall and non-binary representation. But still, who you probably won’t see too much of are models with adaptive or other special needs. As inclusive as fashion has become, with plus-sized and genderqueer models, these other groups haven’t gotten a corresponding amount of ink or opportunities on the runway. But as some brands and retailers are showing us, that’s also becoming a thing of the past—and we may have Gen Z to thank for that. As digital-natives and global citizens, Gen Z values inclusivity. As consumers, Zers look to the companies they do business with to reflect the world they see. One that is fluid, authentic and diverse. We see this play out time and again from where Gen Z eats, to the makeup they buy and the influencers they listen to.
48
MARKET LEVEL
49
50
Gen Z consumers are speaking out about the lack of inclusivity and accessibility within the fashion industry. For example, European fashion retailer, Brandy Melville cater to a very small market of which is for teens and young adults. However, this market serves an even smaller minority as it only provides a one size category, meaning that a young adult For instance whom may have a slight curvature but presents as slim, may believe that they are not slim because their body doesn’t fit into the criteria of what is considered skinny or should we say what is considered a size small. To conclude, my vision for the future to be entirely accessible will involve the following, no labels, no size labels, prices that cater to wider audiences and more inclusivity for those with disabilities. My reason being for this is for the purpose of simply delivering the consumer with a future filled with endless possibilities, a future in which they can be whoever they want to be without shame, by disposing of labels, the consumer will feel like they fit in. The idea centres around the trend in how the future will bring about a sense of self love and acceptance for the consumer and the importance of their self-expression, with the reintroduction of the face mask, the consumer will begin to rediscover who they are.
51
EPILOGUE To summaries, the 2040 trend package for Life On Mars forecasts the uncertain reality of what life may look like. UNCOVER ME derives from the current global health crisis. From assessing and researching the failures and successes of which COVID-19 has generated, and learning from the failures in particular, we can make changes and adapt to a new way of life, leading us onto ‘new beginnings.’ COVID-19 has changed the way we all think, we understand that global pandemics are inevitable in one’s lifetime, but most importantly, we can acknowledge that this pandemic is just the beginning of future epidemics. “Preventing a pandemic may not be possible, so being prepared is the key,” “Everything starts with smarter surveillance. If you don’t look, you don’t see. If you don’t see, you will always respond too late.” (Maxmen, 2021). The idea of moving to Mars will mark a monumental event in the history books, just like COVID-19. While the idea of inhabiting another planet seems far-fetched, Elon musk has been busy devising a plan to send 1 million of the world’s population to Mars by 2050. With reference to the statements made above, it is important that we are prepared for every possibility. Looking into the future of epidemics lead me to look into my own personal experience of COVID-19, and how it has impacted me and what I believe to be something that should necessitate adaptation, leading on from this, I unearthed the trend concept UNCOVER ME which discusses the idea of adapting and innovating the face mask, to fit into a reality where pandemics have become a normality. To extend this concept, I furthered the narrative by exploring how we could modify the future of the face mask to, again fit into Gen Z’s expectations, this modification targets the Gen Z consumer as it is based around the idea of identity, and how identity is a form of self-expression for the consumer – UNCOVER ME will expose the consumers identity from the discomfort of the face mask, and will continue to expose with the help of a modified face mask that enables one to recognize with the help of transparency within the design.
52
As a Gen Z consumer myself, I can presume that the face mask was a reflection of the substandard, delayed reaction to the reality of COVID-19. The government was unprepared and, at all costs tried to avoid sending the country into lockdown. Not to mention, the introduction to the face mask of which didn’t come into force until we had emerged from lockdown. To name a few, face mask supply was of a shortage and the experience of the discomfort of the mask induced an identity issue for Gen Zers. UNCOVER ME concerns Gen Z as a priority, 2040 will be about bringing forwards change to a generation that desires it. Accessibility and inclusivity will be a major change within the fashion industry and the most important aspect, the face mask, will act as a form of healing from the trauma of which Gen Z have endured, we want them to feel loved and appreciated, we want to protect them from further damage, the mask is our way of protecting them whilst also enabling them to learn to love themselves again with their rediscovered identity.
54
MESSAGE TO GEN Z!! YOU ARE EMERGING INTO THE UNKNOWN, IT FEELS ABNORMAL BUT IT’S EXCITING, A NEW CHAPTER TO EMBARK ON, NEW WAYS IN WHICH YOU CAN FIND YOURSELF AND WHERE YOU BELONG. A JOURNEY OF SELF LOVE AND COMPASSION. YOU WILL BE OK.
55
56
REFERENCES DNA Web Team. (2021, March 8). Face masks disrupt facial perception - Know what researchers have to say. DNA. Retrieved from https://www.dnaindia.com/science/photo-gallery-face-masks-disrupt-facial-perception-know-what-researchers-have-to-say-wearing-facemask-covid-19-2879860/ you-can-t-always-recognize-a-friend-wearing-a-mask-2879861 Dr. A.J. Drenth. (n.d.). INTP & INFP Identity-Seekers & Creatives. Personality Junkie. Retrieved from https://personalityjunkie.com/12/intp-infp-self-seekers-creatives/ 86INSIDER. (2021, May 25). China’s Gen Z: Identity Explorers, Seekers of the Truth. 86 insider. Retrieved from https://86insider.com/chinas-gen-z-identity-explorers-seekers-of-the-truth/ Paul Mason. (2021, June 2). How the Covid shock has radicalised generation Z. The Guardian. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jun/02/how-the-covid-shock-has-radicalised-generation-z Emma Elizabeth Davidson. (2018, July 4). Models at Margiela had iPhones clamped to their limbs. DAZED. Retrieved from https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/40591/1/maison-margielaartisan-haute-couture-aw18-paris-john-galliano-iphone-tech Stephanie H. (2020, June 25). Gen Z loves inclusive fashion. Meet some of the brands doing it right. GEN Z INSIGHTS. Retrieved from https://www.genzinsights.com/gen-z-loves-inclusive-fashion-meet-some-of-the-brands-doing-it-right Amy Maxmen. (2021, August 13). Has COVID taught us anything about pandemic preparedness? nature. Retrieved from https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-021-02217-y
58
IMAGE REFERENCES FIGURE 1: http://www.textures4photoshop.com/tex/isolated-objects/polaroid-frame-png-for-photoshop. aspx FIGURE 2: Retrieved from https://schonmagazine.com/away-to-mars/ FIGURE 3: https://www.pinclipart.com/pindetail/ihxowxh_duct-tape-png-paper-clipart/ FIGURE 4: https://fuckingyoung.es/dont-throw-away/ FIGURE 5: http://officemagazine.net/fashion/life-enciphered FIGURE 6: https://www.smudgetikka.com/fashion/plastic-world-kids-fashion-by-vika-pobeda/ FIGURE 7: https://www.creativeboom.com/inspiration/outlandish-outfits-made-from-rubbish-are-inspired-by-dreams-and-fairytales/ FIGURE 8: https://www.dezeen.com/2019/06/26/san-kim-graduate-inflatable-fashion/ FIGURE 9: https://twitter.com/jjkmiyake/status/1409201751807365131?s=12 FIGURE 10: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/17323/0/soulland-aw14-lookbook FIGURE 11: https://natalieturnbull.tumblr.com/post/71629734661/artwork-by-me-photo-by-elise-wilken FIGURE 12: https://weheartit.com/entry/303757908 FIGURE 13: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/officialanimaanimus/theres-no-planet-b/ FIGURE 14: https://texturefabrik.com/2021/01/19/14-duct-tape-textures-vol-2/ FIGURE 15: https://www.ignant.com/2017/09/07/lacans-mirror-stage-interpreted-by-leonie-barth/
59
FIGURE 16: https://weheartit.com/entry/251766715 FIGURE 17: https://blackrush.tumblr.com/post/188044823499 FIGURE 18: https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/siri-in-plastic-fantastic/ FIGURE 19: https://trendesignbook.com/blog/lifestyle/maison-margiela-fall-2018-couture-the-biggest-takeaways/ FIGURE 20: Harry Styles. Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/BhCHe4Aj2Jy/?utm_ source=ig_web_copy_link FIGURE 21: Harry Styles. Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/p/CUQottqPtEG/?utm_ source=ig_web_copy_link
60
61
