By car and cowcatcher pt2

ilstrwJlilEnqfrI

296

By Car

tutr{ l1t Cozucalc/tcr.

297

permissiotl. The Chiefl seatecl on a lorv chair on t1're rear platform of the car, rvith a rug over his knees ancl a rragazine in his

"[BU

0mr mnb hU eoweoqfcf:er.

Plnr II. Fnolr _calgary to Lagga, I had travcllecl i, the car of

thc

engine,'acco'rpa,ied by a victirnized official. perchecl on a litile feather bench, r,vell ir.r fi'o,t, and crose to the srnall rvirdorvs, J lrad cnjoycd an cxc.cllc.rrt ol,rirorturrity of secirrg cverythirii. llesicles this, tr had gained a gr-eat cieai of usefui informatio]r about engines, boilers, sigr.rals, &c., lvhich n-lay come in ,,ha1dy,, some day- Duri,g our stoppages the engineer a,cr firemen hacr not failed to explain these tliings, a,cl i nua eve, ve,turecl to ,, crossi,!.;, rvhistlc " ca,tion ,' at The sig,al ,r,.nt u"ry u,.11 _a for a, arnateur, but the crrief's q-ri.l. hd cletectecl a rarter a.rc1 at the ,ext halt he.s:nt pere,rptory "", lressagc,

l "not to play tricks," rvrrich, acldr-essecl to i cliscrc.t rn:rtro.lrvas rcally quite insulting. r rracl cven q,cstirr.crl thc cra.i,ccr .rs to tlic probable eflect of a bacl collision rvrrirc I occulriccr this post.

I{c prornptll, sr-iggested-, ,, rrost likely J<illccl ,, ancl aclclecl, ; r'cflectivcly, as he carefully oilecl an alreaciy ciripltiug valve, ,,

crcsir.i,g rnJ

" rvhich n,onlcl bc a bad job

Wiert f

!

to travel o1 the corvcatcher, think that a vcry bacl ;ob i,rdc".i.--i;"; ser.rsible, level-headed marl as he is, such an i,,ovation on all general rules of, travelri'g crecorum was 1ro doubt very startli,g.

He used mar-ry i,effectual ;,ersuasior-rs to i,duce rne to abando' the idca, ancl almost said I should not run so great a risk I but at 1ast, being a man of ferv rvords, ancl secing "ti,r. ,uu, ne"rly r-rp, hc so far reientccr as to ask rvhat I proposecr using as a seat.

Glancing r:ound the station platfonn i Uln"ta .,rltt empty lying near", and aC once declared that^ r,vas,,just the ".^lrd1:.bg:" thiug." Before Mr. tr-..-- coulcl expost,late further, I hacl :rsl<ecl a bral<esrn.n to placc tlie car-rcr1e'-box on the buffcr-beam, and n,as 6n my \\ray to the ,,Jamaica,, to ask the Chief,s i\,Ir.

E--

ernr.rouncecl m1z

seemed to

61651'1.9

hand, looked very cornfortable and colrtent. I-Iealing nr1, request, after a molnent's thought, he pror.rounced the iclca " rather riclicuious," then remernbere d it rvas clangerous. as nrell, and finally asked if I u,as sure I cor-rld hoid on. Before the ryords were 'rvell out of his lips, and taking permission for grantecl by the question, I rvas again stancliug by the cou,catcirer, adrniring the position of the candlc-box, ar-rd anxiously asl<ir-rg to be helped on.

Before I take my seat, 1et nle try, briefly, to describe the Cotvcatcher."

Of course ever)/ olle l<norvs thztt the buffer" beam is that narron,, heav1, iron platflonn, rvith the siclcs scoopecl out, as it rvcre, ou the very fore-front of the engirre ovcr ll.hich the headlight glares, ancl in the comer of rvhich a 1itt1e flag is generally placed. In English engines, I belicve, the buflers proper project from tire front of this beam. In Canaclian cugiues auother sort of attachmcnt is arrangecl, in-rmcdiatel1, belotv the bcam, by rvirich the cr-rgine can clran, trains bacl<n,arcls as r'vell as fonvarcls. The bearn is about eight feet across, at the tvidest part, ancl about three feet dcep. The description of a cor,r,catcirer is less easy. Io begin rvith, it is misiramed, for it catches no cows at all. Sornetimes, I tinderstancl, it throu,s r-rp on the buf{er-beam rvhatever mairnccl or n.ranglecl anirr- al it has strucl<, but in most cases it clears tlie line by shoving fonvarcl, or tossir-rg asicle, any removable obstrnction. It is best clescribccl as a sort of barrecl iron bealr, abor-rt six feet 1ong, projecting close over tire tracl< in a I shapc, and attachecl to the bufferbeam try rrery strong bolts. It is sornetimes sheathed ivitir thin iron plates in rvintcr, and acts thcn as a srnall snorv-p1ough.

Behoid rrle lrow) entirronecl on the carrdle-box, u,ith a soft felt hat rvell over lny eycs, and a linen carriagc-covcr tncl<ecl round nre frotl uraist to foot. n[r. ]ahacl seatcd himself or.r the other side of the headiiglit. I-Ie liad snccumbed to the inevitable, ceased fnrther cxpostulatiou, clisciaimecl a1l resironsibiiity, and, lilie the jeu,el of a Superintencicnt trre n,as, ltad decicled on sharing my pcriM turn to irin"r, peeping round the lreadlight, r,vith rny bcst smile. " This is loae /1,," I triurnphantly anltotlnce, seeing that a r,vord of comfort is necessaiy, " quita louellt ; I shall travei on this corvcatcher fiom summit to sea ! " Mr. Superintenclent, in his tllrn, pecps ronncl the heacllight ancl sutveys me rvith solemn ar-rd resigned surprise. tt f-

By Car ant{ ly

298

sLlppose-y611-1yill,"

hs I

I sce that he is it a rnighty snort, a terribly big throb, and a shrieking .JVi-ttr rvhistle, No. 324 moves slorvly foniarcl. The very small population of Laggan harre all come out to see. Tirey stancl i, the hot s,rrshi.re, ancl shacre trreir eyes as the stately e,gine moves on. " It is an arvful thing to c1o ! ,, f hear o u-oi." ,ry, as thc little group lean fonvard ancl for a rnoment I feel ; a thrill that is very like fear ; but it is gone at once, and I _ can thirk of ,othiug but the ,ovelty, the exciterne.t, a,d the fun of this mad ricre ir-l grorious ..r,rrrri,." a,c] intoxicati,g air, rvith rlagnifice.t mou'rtairs before a,cr arounrl ,re, their iofty peai<s srrilir.rg cloln on us, ancl ,ever a fro',n o, trreir grancJ hoping, at any rate, that

faccs

says slotviy, ancl

shall live to

c1o

!

!

The pace

By Car and 14t Co',ucatc/tcr.

Cozucalcficr.

cluici<ens gradr-rally, surely, srviftly, and then we are rushing up to the summit. We soon stancl on the ,, Great Divide"-_53oo leet above sea-level-bctrveen the tu,o great oceaus. As ure pass, Mr" tr---_ by a gcsture, points out a smali rir,-er (ca1lcc1 Bath Creck, I thinl<) rvhicl, issuing from ;r lal<e on tirc narrolv summit-level, rvincls near the tracl<.

I look, ar-rcl 1o ! the *,ater; floivirg eastzuard torvarcls the Atla,tic siclc, turns ir.r a. rnoment as the Divide is passccl, and pours -Luâ&#x201A;Źstzlard dorvn the pacific slope !

Another moment ancl a strange silence has fallen round us.

With steam shut off and brakes c1orvr.r, thc 6o_ton enginc, ly iI orvn rveight and impetus alone, gliclcs into tire pai of the I(icl<ing I-Iorse ll-iver, and begins ri clcsccnt of zgoo feet i, t*,clve miles. \,Ve rush orl,,,nid through thc vast valley strctchilrg before rrs, bristling rvith lofty forcsts, darl< and tha.t, clinging to the mor-rntain -siclc, arc- reared up :leep, . into the sky. 'Ihe rivcr, rviclening, grows rvhitc rvith clashing fo;,n, a,d rushes clorv.rvzrrds ,uiltlr" tr.rr"rrclous force. Sun_ light flashes olt glaciers, into gorges, ancl athr.vart huge, . *rviiir tor'veri,g_masses of Locl< cro*,recl mag,ificc,t tr." .r.it, that risc all rou.cl us of every size ard srrape. r3reatrrless a*'e-stricker-but rvitir a rvircr triu,rph i, my heart, -aLnost I look frorn farthest mountain peal<, liftecl ti;gt U"for. *., to the .sliining pebbles at niy feei ! Wann rvinll rushes past j a thousand sunshine colour.s dance in the air. With a firm right. hand-_grasping tire iron stanchion, and my feet plantecl otr the buffcr beam, there u,as uot a yarcl of that descent in u,hicli I faltered for a moment. If i had, then assurecily

299

in the rvild valley of the l(icl<ing Ilorse l{iver, on the rvestert't slope of the Rocky Mountairts, a life irad goue out that day !

I dicl not tliink of clauger, or reuretnber rvhat a gidcly post I hacl. I coulcl only gaze at the glaciers that the moutltairts held so closely, gooo feet above tts, at the trace of snoiv avalauches whicir hacl ieft a space a hundred leet u'ide tnassed rvith tour ancl prostrate trees; on the shadolvs that playecl over the distant peal<s ; and ou a hunclred rainborvs macle by the foaming, ciashing river, r'vhich srvirls rvith trerteudous rapiclity dotvn the gorge on its rvay to the Coh-rmbia in thc valley beloiv.

Tliere is glory of brightness and beauty everytt'ltere, and I laugh aloud on the cowcatcher, just becanse it is all so delightful i lVe have left the North-lVest Territories, aud are uo$' in the ?rovince of Britistr Columbia. Field-Ottertail-Leauchoilc flit past us. Steam has been up for ten miles now ; \\re have lelt the I(icking Horse Pass behind us arld are glicling into the rvicle Colurnbia Valley, full of rich, uerv beauty, of green tall u'avirlg grass aucl blue rvater. A lou,er lange o[ the Rockies, streal<ecl and capped rvith snorv, stretches away oll either sicle. The roadrvay is very level, and the rails glcarn before us, narrolitlg in a distant point to a silver threacl. I hear tl-rc er-rgirrcer piiing in fuel, and $,histle with shrillest note' Then, rvith trebly quicl<encd pace, we dart along in the sttushine. For a seconcl only I feel a quicl<ening of the heart-pulse, and a hot colour rtounts to m1'" face, but it is gone iu a momeut, al-rcl I atll 11o11e the u'orse for that " spurt " at the rate of fifty miles au hour.

Halted at Palliser. The Chief and his friends rvall<ecl up to the cou,catcher to malie a morniltg ca1l. I fclt a little " supcrior " and 'n,as rather cor.rdescending. Somervhat flushecl rvith excitcrnent, but still anxious to be politc, I asked " rvoulci the Chief step up atld tal<e a drivc ? " To the horror of the bystattdcrs he carelcssly consentcd, aud iu another moment had taken thc place of Mr. E--, the lattcr seating hin-rself at our fcet on the buffer-bearn. There was a general consternatiou arlloug our little group of li'ier-rds and the ferv inhabitants of Palliscr-thc Chief ru:;hing through the flats of the Columbia olt a co\\'catcher I anr1, tt,orse still, possibly even amorrg tl-re u'ilcl Sclkirk Niountains-those tnountair-rs of rvhich scal'ccly threc years before, in his charming bool<, 'From old Westminster to New,' rny friencl Mr. Sar-rdford Fleming hacl said, " no o1']e

By Car atct{ 14,, Cozucalcfier..

By Cat' atzd 01, Cozucatc/tq..

300

has bcen through the rve.stenr slope ol the Selkirl<s,,I Every ot'tc is horrifiecl. It is a comfort to trre other occupa.t of the buffe r to fincl somc olte else rvilful, a,d as u,e stearnecl arvay toivarcls Dorald, at the easte,r base of trrc selr<irrcs, tr fert ,ot so bad after ali !

The Colunrbia Valley is rrery channing, heavy clumps of trees breal<ing its cool, gre"n surfa.e. A quiJ littlc paradisc it lookr, l,virrg claspccl betl'een trvo ruou,tai. ra,ges. .Ihe Col,mbia Il-iver, saici to be rzoo miles 1ong, rises in the ffr.i.i*, p^.r* through tiie leve1s betrvecu the" trvo rnountain rangcs, aqd fi,alIy florvs -seq1l1*,ard i,to America, territory. It is crossed b), thc C. I,. R. nine or ten timcs. clays norv begin to seem ,,alt,ays in the aftemoou.,, We , Ourgatued rlave threc hours si.rce arrivi.g at lrort Artrrnr, o. the eastern e,ci of l-al<e Superior a,cl r,y travellir.rg clock, rvhich ; is still Ottarva tinre, is ,or" tirrce iro,rs s1orv. It ,rn, set by castertt stardarcl time, rvhicrr c-xte,ds to port Arthr-rr. centrar statrdard timc is thcn i. usc, ivith its acldecl hour, for 694 rniles to llroaclvien,. There, b), ,nountain stanclarcl time, tve gain :Luothcr hour, and cnjoy it for 759 miles to Donalcl. At Doiald n'c leel our lives are perccptibly lengthening by the arrival oi Pacific sta,darcl tirne, ivhicli gi,r., .,, a ,, last hour ,, u'til rcach the

',e

sczr.

lJut still further iibcrtics havc bcen talicrr u,ith olcl Father Tirne, hitherto co,sicrerecr so i.exor:rblc. 1)iscarcling the oidf:tshio,red r\.x,r. a,cl r,.;rt. thc o1,6cials ancl tirnc_tablcs of tlie Canadian I'acific count their hours as nunrbcrs go, so that r I']'lI' is Tirirtec, o'clocl<, 2 p.r{. Fourtcc. o'crocl<-reacrrir..r 'l-*,e.rty-four

o'clock at ,ricl,ight. It is ,r"ry ounr",ri"rr, lrJi"i. lrorc cr<jlressivc than,thc orcl figures, t,hicrr obligc r-ruc to stop a,cl thi'k-is it .ro,rirrg or cverring? But I *ust corfcss the 'J^amaica's " cool<, littlelohn, roo|l<ci crecideclry asto,isrrccl *,rre, I fir-.st orderccl cliuner at shar! zo o,clocl<. ,o..".ut_" for our party an unintcrruptccl vierv of tire country ,, through rvhich the canadian pacific porr.. from \,vinnipcs- ; Varcouvcr, arrargelrelrts hacl bee u rnacle by rvhich otr: SpJ.i"l rcmai^cd statio,ary at r-right. rt rvas also lii'clly rnaragecl a Superi,te,clert ah'ays travellecl rvitrr us, ancl thougrr-we trrat hacr :;orron,fully partcd rvith l\{r" E*- at J)onalcl, he iraJbeen rvell arrd lris s'cccssol' agrcc<l to olrl-pla, of travciling fr-our 'tirla6q,l, p.xr.

8 r\.x,I. to 8 Alr carly cup of tea lefi us goocl appctiies for a very substa'rtial brcai<fast at rr.3o, cl,rirg lio.,.,s halt,

",,

rvhen the raihvay " ha'c1s

_

301

" cli,ccl at some statio, to rvhich trrcir supplies had been telegraphccl for, or 1i.o'r their o\\rli conr_ missariat arrarlgeme^ts i, the baggage car. r3etrvccn 5 arci 6.o'clock lve allays ma*agecl t" tJrt for afternoo" t.r, rrra rvhen comfortably settlecl o, a .sidi,.q ior tire ,;gt t, air,r". ,uo,

about 8.3o- Our small porter, r*,ho, lhorgh irardiy fuil of energy ani skill, kept the i.frf" rvell provided. He foragecl for supplies o,, o..orior, ""r, ,u". "u"ry alrvays greatly distressecl lvlren anything laclieci, ."qu;r"a consolatio. insteacl of reproof rvrien rnatiers \,vent \r.rong "na i, tirc anno_unced

five feet high, rvas

cooking departrnent.

To resume the journey. Our clestination to_night is Revei_ stolre, at the ryeste'r ba.se of the Selkirlis, TS rr-,;t.. frorr-,

Donald at thc eastern base. Torvarcls Revelstol<e \ve arc now_travelling, and as tire train nears the valley or pass by ivhich the mour:tairs are e,terecr, rve fi,d their tor.vering i.,,ii,r.., ir.r -sorne degree obscured by the smol<e of forest nri, ,ut,i.t , orvi,g to the u,nsrialry dry seaso.r, rrave burne.t ,n.t ior-

to1n" iveel<s past. The spad; from a passing engine, ".t."J a " Smuclge " or small .smoky fir.e, lit by raihvay laboirrers ?; I*"; oFf mosquitoes, or a neglectecl .rmp_fi.e, spr:eacls so raoiclIv among the brushrvood, tu.igs, ancl fallc, Icaucs i,, tt,"."'uo.]t forests, that large tracts of rnag'ifice,t rvooclland i. a short tirne, a'cl the atinosprrere becomes smoky "r. .r..t.oy".t ar-rcl clu1l

for rnilcs ancl miles arouncl.

Leaving the north brarrch of tire Columbia u.e strilie sharply rvcstu,ard, and e'ter the ,, Beaver,, pass, rvhich leacls torrrr.t. iii" summit of the Selkirk Range. A prospect rvilclly _rgn;n.",ri lies belore us as \\,e asce,d. Imp.essions formed on a" b,fferbcam arc difficult to convcy I ilrnost clespair.

; tni,e. I'ragi,c th,,cleri,g -oiorg

upon tfr" ?ror,

of convcyirrr. ".,l',."ii,,.ri

engine,i, the heart of a stupencloris mou.tainra.ge!

Flurclreli' gL feet above us, forest-coverecl ireights torver granclly; forcst_ fillcd valleys lie hn,dreds of feet b.iorv. Lookiirg ,,1rr-a. -.,.r beyond these masses of darkly rvooclecr mountains, I see near ,re glaciers glittering in sunlight, incl ranges of cliffs, streal<ecl, ,,i;p;.i or outli,ed rvitir snorv around them. Looking far arvay #1;,; ancl stiil onrvard, I see tracr<ress vailcys stretch-ing to the su.sct betrvce, gi gantic mou, taiu s-the soft iftern oon liltt cri mso, i n-q the mist that floats about them. In the sky, on every side risc tall serrated peaks, frorn rvhich glaciers slope ancl pin,acles gleam rvith strarrge, ur.rearthly beauty. A, itr" trairi rvincls .ilr;i;;

302

Ry Ctrr arut{ blt Cozucalc/rct

.

rc-,unc1 tire rnountair-r .siclcs, aln,a)rs aiong a stcep precipicc, evety possiblc scnsc of fear is lost in u'onder and dciight" \Ve arc now 5ooo lcct above thc sca-ievel, in ll-ogers' Passso cailcd lrorn thc cliscovcrcr, Major ltogers. His explorations,

carriccl otr ottl1, about fiye or

six years ago arnici ilcredible

harclships, and l,ith r-utclaunteci persevcraltce, proveci that a practicaLrlc pass 1ccl from the valleys of thc l_lcaver and a small strcarn called the Bcar orrer the sumrnit of tlic Scll<irlts, and clon,n thc u.estcni slope through the vallcy of tlie Iile-cillc-l,aet llivcr. I'crhaps r-ro part of thc line is more extraordinary, as cvincirrg claring cr.rginccring skil1, than this Pass, rl,here the roacl-bed cllrvcs ir loops ovcr trcstlc-bridges of immcnse height, at the sarnc time rapidly clesccnding. In six rnilcs of actual

travcllir.rg thc trair-r only advances trvo ancl half miles, so the rvinclings nccessary to gct through this

lrLrrrcrous zrre call)/o11.

As I sit iooliing fonvarcl clou,n the Pass I can scc long trestle_ br-idgcs l--,clo*. arrd _r'ct o, a /ittc * itlr tlrc ouc \\.e :t'c crossiug at the rlroment ! Tlicy shorv abovc thc forest, sharply distinct, so

lar bclo*', that for a rnoment my lic.rt bc:rts cluiclily a.s I fccl the bral'es tigl-rten, ancl the cngiuc bcar orr rvitlr iL rluict, stcady, siorvcr rr-rsh ronnrl arrcl clou,n ;rncl ovcr, t,hilc I lool< througir tlic l-rcstlc-beams ir-rto the hurryirg fo;r,r of *,atcrs r5o fcct bcrolr Ovcr Surltrisc Creel< thc trcstlc is r8o fcct high, but I pccpecl clo*.., into it cluite lruco,ccrrcclly, n.t rvithout a certain satisfaction to fir.rrl I had such a ,, gootl hcacl.,, At Stoney Creel; thc trestle is 286 feet above a rriost glor.ior,rs r.avine" The ciTcci rvas ircre nruch hcightcnccl lry lrugr:, virl)oury srnol<c-clouds lrangi,g ir.r fa,tastic .shapcs about tlrc i,rrrrcrsc vallcy, ancr a ccrtair.r vagllelress of clistant rnisty outlinc u,lriclr, in the larm tendcr cvcning light, t'as inexprcssibly beautifr.rl. At no spot clid rve find anythirs rnorc rrag'ificent tha, thc vicrv before us ;rt Stoney Crcel<. Truth compcls rr-ic to salr I crossccl this trcstle on foot-from lro ne1'volls rclnctancc, horvevcr" A hunclrccl feet or so nr;rlie no diflerencc aftcr a little exireriencc in lool<ing through arcl over trestle-briclges fro,r :r corvcatchcr ? "I'he chief rr.anLecl to inspect tiris bit of rvorl<, ancl thc train iralting for the pur:pose, sorne of the party t,allred ovcr, of urhorn I rvas one. o'r jou,rey through these passcs \v:Ls full of plcasa,t rittlc i,ciclc'ts, too .ume rous to rnc.tion here" ,, Construction ,, being hardty yet finally cornpleted through tire Selkirks, gangs of Iabourers rverc still at rvorl<. Some of their temporary homes,

By Cor arttl 0y Cozucalc/tcr

303

in statiot-rary raihvay cars o11 sidir-rgs built for thc purposc, \\ic1.e not so picturesquc as the hamlcts inhabitecl by others n'herc iog cabins ncstlccl under tali ceclars, al.rd tet'rts rvcrc pitcircd ty rippling streams.

It rvas pleasant to see the rvartn rvelcotle given to tl-re Chicl' by these " du,ellers in thc rvilderness." As the Spcciai passccl, and thc Chief rvas obscrvecl sitting or-r the encl platfortn, thc cchoes rang ivith their lusty cheers. Jixpccting his arrival (thc Special \\ras of course telegraphecl from statiou to station), tircl; were generally found stanclir-rg by tlvcnties and thirties or-r their car roofs, in angles of rocli, aucl evetl iu overliatlgit'rg trecs, saluting him rvith loud huzzas. f n sotne places the labour-gar-rgs, busy on the road-bed, gave kindiy u'elcome by standing in liue, rvaving picli aud shovel ir-r clefault o[ flags, alld ill quicter spots two or threc solitary rvorl<men lvor1ld run togcther on sotlc higir bank above us, aud cheer vocifcrously.

A nerv feature in the laudscape hereabor"rts rverc the catnps of Chinese labourers-a celtaifl air of tteatness about them ; their poor tents carclully pitcircd and closecl ; their tirr cookingvesscls, sand-rubbed ancl shining, generally arrangecl ou rr-rstic tablcs just outside. Wc sarv large nr-rrnbers of these singularlooliing pcople \\,orliing in gangs ttLrder a l,hite superir-rtcndct'rt, ruot only on thc roacl-bed, but in builcling snorv-shecls, u,hich are found necessar)r for rvitttcr travel. We tvere toIc1 th:rt an

ingenious railri'ay suoe rinteudcut had suggcstecl tal<ing tlle summer linc outsidc the snon'-sircds, so that tlie scellcr)/ nrigfut not be hidden frorn vior., t,hich bright iclca is, I believc, to be carricd out forthivitlt.

These Cl.rir-resc navvies, ali ridiculously alil<c iu lonl ancl fcature, rr'carir.rg quecr little bh-re-and-rvhite gowns, l-raug1. trouscrs, rvooden shocs, ancl thicli flat strarv hats, give a foreign air to the scene. Standing mttte, rvide-eyed ancl expressionless, their shovels all held at thc same angle, reacly to begin on tlie gravcl the instant rvc had passed, thcy had a curious effcct, as of some mechanical appa,:atus rvith ar-r arvfr-rl sernblancc of l'rurnarrity. Ancl 1,s1 u'c linorv theirs is the olclest civilization in thc linon,n rvorld ! I{ori' fortuuate it is that all uations dcr not cxprcss civilization in the same rvay I As rve go onrvard, smoke iucreases around us ; the srleil of burning lvood grows clisagreeable, aucl as eveniug fal1s l,c can sce tall trees in the distance gloi,ving t,ith flame, and tracts of lcvel grouncl hotly srnoking. It rvas sad to behold lvhat had

I

By Car and by Cozucalc/tcr.

30+

bcen lofty cedars prostrate in charred masses, ar.rcl fire steadily aclvancing amo1lg the bright blueberry patches, the ta1l braci<en covers, and the tangled grorvth of r.vild florvers and fem.

Near one of these places rve had a little adventure. As rve srvept into a ltarrol\r vailen almost overhung rvith trees, the srno]<e scernecl to gloiv dense before us, and in the centre of the tracl< apDeared a little red flag. I knerv elrough of ,,flagging,, signals to urclerstancl this mealtt " Danger," ancl in an instant after I felt the brakes tighten. Clutching the frier-rdly ir.on bar ciosely lest I should be " spun off" by the irnpetus of a halt, I

fonvard as \\re o'slowed," and behelcl clistant flarne reddening tire gloom beyor-rd. A signalman appeared as 1ve came to a staudstill. He rvas one of a smaIl gang tolcl off to rvatch the fires and prevent them spreading to the sleepers, or in arry \\,ay injuring tlie tracl<. Telling the engineer that, a little farther on, fire had advancecl quite near the iine, he ran back to his post. IJere n,as a delightful opportunity for a nerv sensation ! One of our party r,vas by my side on the corvcatcher, ancl agreed to face the rush. The er-rgineer r,vent on to ir.rspect, and returnecl very dubior-rs about the safety of otn, position at all evet-rts ; but I succeeclecl so .i,vell in impressing hirn u,ith an iclea of our safety, that he rnade preparations to go for*,arcl. And a very nelv ancl very hot se,sation it certainly rvas to fly through a br-rsh-fire on a cowcatcher, as rve clicJ, ivitir berrt heads ar,d closely gathered skirts, to avoicl brcathing the peerecl

heated air or catching fire.

Since the tirne of our jonurey, horvever, the road has been cr-rtirely completed, and so large a space cleared on either side the lir.re, that falien trees or flames at close quarters are irnpossible. f'he rvilcl ancl riagnificent canyon of the lile-cil1e-rvaet is norv leadir.rg us to Revelstol<e, at the seconcl crossing of the Columbia. This river, risir.rg in llogers' Pass, pours through a grancl clefile in r,vild rapids, enclosed by majestic monntains, surging past rocky ar-rd gravelly shores, as it leaps ancl foams ourvarcl through

a tangled mass of vegetation. We cross ancl tirnes. Everyr,vhere, as usual, Ior.ely

l-ecross the stream several

snowy peaks, crests, rvalls ancl slopes, tolver above forest, river, ancl rvild gorge, and rest against the sky. The evening sI-radorvs that shroud the canyon, daricen the rvater, and creep up tlie mountain side, leave these delicious outlines untouchecl : they 611]y scenr to grorv dim, as the stars come out and encircle each facling

tip with gems.

By Car and by Cozucatc/ter"

3o",

' The gloom is profouncl after niglttfall ; but \tr/e are very happy at Revelstoke " on the siding"" Little John, the porter, has provided a splendicl dinner, spite of his dejection caused, I believe, from seeing no prospect of getting fresh eggs for breakfast

I

!

giad when rve moved out uext moruittg, and left to her smoky solitude. The r,veather was clear and cool. Above the mist I could see the sky pearly blue, and the air lvas fragrant with the odour of pine and spruce.

Following the valley of the E,agle River, lve wind gaily through the cedar forests of the Gold Range, gemmed rvith lakes blue and shining, its tall, darkly clothed summits often lit by small cascades gleaming through the trees. Crossing aird recrossing the Eagle River seven or eight times, r,ve reach the Sicamous Narror,vs, into r,vhich its dark hurrying r,r'aters are emptied. We presently srveep into an immense valley, througir rvhich, for many miles, the line sliirts beautiful stretching lakes sheets of blue r,vater, glacier fed, lying in the folcls -grand of the Gold Range. These lakes close, as it were, into thesouth branch of the Thompson River. Many tunnels lie in our rvay as we rush by them, and during a halt I arn told one of the tunnels is " wet." This being interpreted, lneans .that the arching rock is full of springs, r,vhich pour on the train as it passes. An umbrella a.nd r,vaterproof are therefore necessar)/ for me,-no$' sole occupant of the cor,rcatcher; and rvith praiseworthy economy I take off my hat, tuck it safely uuder nly \'vraps, and prepare to encounter the "!vet" tunnel thtts equipped ! We plunge into a ferv moments' darkness,-u,ater splashing and dripping on every side; and as rve eorcrge into sunlight again, and stop just beyond the tuunel, I sec a party of young English sportsmen standing uear the roaclside.

They have evidently just climbed the bauk, guns in har.rd. leaving a large canoe nith trvo Indiau paddlers on the la1<e belolr,. Fine, tall young Saxons they are, in sporting attire somervhat the rvorse for long travel, but very conventional in styie notrvithstanding. Just imagine the feelings r,vith rvhich r.vas

Revelstoke

these rveil-regulated young men beheld a lacly, bareheacled, aud l,ith an umbrella, seated in front of au engine, at the rnouth of a tunnel in the Gold Range of British Columbia ! I arn sore11, afraid I laughed outright at the blank amazemeut of thcir rosy

faces, and longed to tell them rvhat fun it '"vas ; but not being " introduced, )/ou know," I contented myself r'vith ac- " VOL, I.-NO. III.

'r*-i

t t

B), Cnn

306

l

arud Ay Cozr.,catclter.

knorvledging their prese'rce try a solem' rittle bow-rvhicrr r,vas quite irresistible under. the circurnstances I A so,rervhat si*rilar incide^t occurred ,ext day cluring our journel, in the va1ley of the 1iraser River. The Special stfrrped at a statio, r,r,here a mule trai, r,vas just starting foi- some a;stant gold rni,es, laden r,vitlr ,riners'supplies. It was very interestirrg to see the sturdy animals a1l packed ancJ ready, stancling in r-egrilar order, rvaiti'rg for the r,vord of commancl from their.Liver, rvhich they i,sta,tly obeyed, arl firing along at equar clistances r,vith the air of quadrupeds of superior intellifencc, rvho hacl made up their minds to avoid hurry or confusion. It chancccl to be one of our halts at tea-time, and, as usual, my cup of tca ancl slice of bread-and-butter r,vere brought to the buirer-bcom. I hacl just been presented rvith.trvo large bouquets r,vhich lay in ,ryi"p.

While I lcisurely sippecl rny tea, thcre suclclenly ,pp"r..,t

before me

i, li, lil

r h

I

a very thin, tali,

melancholy_iool<ir-rg

A,*ri"un,

ha-ving something to clo rvitrr the pack trai, ,orv slJwly *inairrg off through the mou,tains. Never shall I forget tt .*p..rrion " in that man's face as he steadily regarded-,re, seatJd composedly on the cowcatcher, surroundeJ i,vith flowers, a plate of bread-ancl-butter or.r a candle-box near by, tal<i,g "fi"rnoonl*.

To rernain silent rvas impossible. " Good evening," I said.

The man nodded, and clrerv a long brcath. " Havc you came far ? ,, he asl<ec'I, nft". ,. lotr pnusc.

Frorr the othcr sidc of the l{ocl<ics,,, I a,-swere.t carelessly, as if speaki,g of a strorl rou,cl a villagc-,,thrcc r*r..h.ccl rnires or so." _"Did you co,re that r.vay dor,v, the Thornpsotl?,,he,ext askecl, a little anxiously. " O yes-and I am eoing to the sea.,, " You ai,'t afraicr lilrcry ? " rrc cortinued, ioor<i,g ,rore meran-

choly than ever. " Not at a11."

'l Norv, 1oo1< here,,, he_ said, pausir.rg betr,veen each rvorcl, ,,it,s

real dangerous. I rvoulcl not cio this t-ling for a lot ol ,rror"y.i; Thelr, thrusting his hands into his po.k"?. with a civil, ,,Goocl errening, Missis," he disappearecl ,ound the engine I Byt 1ro\v go bacl< to the Speciai, rulrilh iras by this time l Ty., reached l(a*rloops, rvhere the norih branch of the tfr"rp.",l joi,s the bra,ch r've have bee, travelring near, and trrey flor,v together-one beautiful Thompson !_to jo"in the Fraser ot Lrrtton.

F. I t

t'

I

t,.

h F |,..

t,

r

t,ll

*I}

rl ,t B It

tI I

t'

.

By Car

nru.d

by

qoj

Cozucalcltet".

Ninety-four rniles of the C. 1'. R. lie betr,veen l(arnloops and .{-ytton. At I(arnloops the scenery changes abruptly and entirely.

From thence through the cauyon ol the Thornpson to Lytton, rvhere r,ve strike the canyon of the Fraser, 1ve seefiI irl a. diffelent ivorld. Huge sancl-hills, almost devoid of grass, roll in uuifortn succession on either side the lvidg rapidly flowing river' Soure of these hills are thiniy covered r,vith short coarse bunches of greyish grass; a peculiar kind of red pine-tree clothes others fronr base to crorvn. These trees stand apart in curiotts rows, as if they had been set in liue, and, monnting the stecp Xrillsides, all leaning one lvay, have the effect of a large army toiling upward and arouud the mighty canyott's fold as far as eye can

see,

l{emarkable coutrasts of colour make these parts very strikins.

The country sloping ar,vay before me in billowy sandhiils, r,vhich rvear every tint of bro'uvn from pale to chocolate, is

brightened only by the Thompson's brilliant green r,vaters, ancl arched over by a sort of duil China-blue sky. At some distauce above l(amloops ri,e had passed over green park-lil<e flats extending to the rvater on the right. Through these lve had made goocl time, aud pleasaut it r,vas to be flying across that nelv couutry in lvarnt sunlight I In this section of the canyon raiu scarcely ever falls, rvhicil accounts for the remarl<able brown tint visible e.zeryr'vhere' There are indeed vL-ry green fields-irrge emeralcl patches-rvhich are irrigated at great cost from tire heights above. The diligent Chinamen orvn tnost of these bright spots, to ivhic{r a nerv charm is added by their brolvn surrouuclings. \Me were told at a station near l(amloops that ouly tr'vo heavy showers of rain irad falleu in uine years, i,vhich l felt to be another injustice to poor Ireiand, rvho has so lnany more sholvers than are good for her !

Never to be forgotten is that ric1e, all alotte, on the colvcatchet'

of the Thompson ! Though stroug of nerve and rvill, the sisht of tirose slender rails-alrvays on a heavy clown the valley

clou,n grade-gleaming on the precipice brinlc as fat'as I could see ahead, rvas solne\,vhat startling-not a bush ol blade to

break the edge of the stern declivities, or to softeu the du1lcoloured steeps that rosc from the ledge we travelleci ou" Horvever, no faiiing of heart-no reeling of brain must be allou'ed.

No human sticcoLu could corne near-no cry could be heard, no sign seen-but then ! horv glorious was the feelinS.;l claring .\a

*-.'r' l

[; |l

i.

Rlt Car and Ay Corucatc/ter. risk, the tlirill of sl'rooting clou,nrvards r'vith thc

lr

ti

308

4 rL flashing of

sunlight and the glancing oirvater before me, and that intmense shaclor.viess cxpanse at my feet I At Lytton rve entel. the. Iiraser canyolt, ancl pa.ss from green

to clark-bro\\,n l\,aters, rolling fiercely'r.vith treme',.lor, ;rd;;r, through mountains ancl goiges trr"i in clim evenir-rg right look itositively arvful ! lVe stay an hour at Lytton, a small place rvhere u,e arc gazed at by trany cl.rinese, and proceeci to North J3encl, at r,vhich, b.in5 divisional point, rve stop for the night.

1 I{aving lingerecl too long at Lytton, lve soon . find clarkness closing around us ir.r trrat tiemendtus .",',yo,, lvhicir for tr.ventyseven r,iles holds the Fraser i, its clePths, ,lr"-.]i.-or ",,.1 "ro,rg rvhich ,,r,e norv travel, mere s1:ecl<. ln ttrut vast solitude of urountain-precipice, bracr< rvith rvilcr rugeecl roclis, ancr arvful r,r,ith imrnense shadotvs. fhe train procecrls slolvly. A lookout man sits rvith nre on the buffer-bearn, a,c1 *re co'rptroller; un,rindful of his i,teresting young family at horne in bttr*u, rvith ar.r acl,rirable sense of drity, stlr.es r,vitrr us trre risks of that night-ride along the Fraser !

Superintendent, rvho joineci us at l(amloops, cxirausted a dictiouary of ertreaty trrat ^_?j]:".t:.*nr.

I ,vourcl aba,clo, tire bujfer-beam, ancl has r.rorv retirecr, ir.r usclcss i,clignatio,, to the co,rforts of his private c.1r. I :r.r :r'varc it is ,crfcctly e:<ceedingly cla,gerou.s, a,t-r trrat trrc srrrLlrt:st jar fro,r a stone oti t'e tracl<, a too sudcle, cllrve, or t'c slililric.st giciclirress or loss of stre,gth, will ccrtairrly c,cl lrry rnort:rl career ; but the rvild spell of^ai,ost the moment is strong upon ntc, aud I sit the stars gleam out over trrc ,rrnutuiu crcsts a,d,'"vatching the foarn flash rvhite r 5o feet belorv, r,vitrr a ,rovccl a,cl srvelling heart I Ilorv ,.rysterious it all is-ho,v a,vfui in its sile,ce as rve stop *riclway, a,cl I stancl erect o, the cor,ycatcher to look at the grarcl srracro,nv,covered outlines trrat soar into thc night sky !

"Just here," says a voice at my elbolv, ,,Bili Jones rvent clean over."

This is very sepuichral, but I knor,y thc speaker is the look_out uan, and ask anxiously, ,,Wlrat hapltenecl ?,, Bill r,vas running a gravel trainj, the voice goes on,_,, left ." the car at North Bencr, a,cl rvas bouird for Lyttori-rulr irlt with the er.rgi're right alor-rg here." I see a ha,cl point to trre r.vooded precipice roo feet clown.-(,Sire took a jump, and rvent dorvn

ll

By Car

ancl 6Y Cozrtcatclt'er'

309

'fhe brakesmalr' he head first into the river-Bill and all' jumped off: but Bill was arvful shook'" Not killed ? " " -Oh, no ; he's living clorvn in Ya1e, serving out drugs-a1l " right, only his broken leg ain't so long as the otlter'" 'fona.iing on this renlrarkable story, aucl rvouderiug at Bill's or tr'vo further' gooa tu.k i"rr ercaping so r'vell, I travel a mile the E"i"yirg the soft'r-,igit "vind -as -it rushes against my face' beatity the oatu. oT der,vy leaves, the souncl of rushir-rg lvater' and of that starr:y strip of sky above, in contrast lvith the dark pistol-Iike ntountain's edge:-r,vhen sucldenly, a series of sharp' Anothe.r shots burst around us, and I feel the brakes clasping. which tne' to seems instant and r've are envelopecl in a fog, as it has that rr-rshing, of rises all round us aftcr a Lysterious souncl out forlvard corles harclly ceased when we stop' A slsnal..man us before is conductor The oi tiJ gt"o*, holcling his larnp aloft' lanclslip' little a Only asks' " he iirtnnt. " Wh;t is rvrong ? in ",', gravel ancl stoncs onlht track' rvhich have to be cleared ;ilgi;g only too plainly of before lve can go on our way, but telling possibledangertopasserrgersontlrecor,vcatclrer,slrouldotleof it f"tg.t .io,l"r, alttoag"a from th'e mountain side' throw our " engine liom the track. as I euterecl ileararrt rvas tire rvarm brightness of the " Jamaica"' triumphant' but tired' somelvhat it at Nortli Bencl, vei:y hun[ry, The Chief was ruu.h inter-lsiecl in flry i'ccount of the "front of n-iy ,i"ru,'iu, tve sat talking ; but I gre"v clrolvsy in the middle engiue' J3i1l about o, Jones' rva.deiing mysIli found oiorj, "ra of rvay that and'ilre stars above the mountai,], i,-t o cot-rfused sort bed' suggested it rvas tiure for tireci travellers--to go to -Moody' is Port to lJencl jotlrney, Nor:th from i)'u, l"rt day's t f7 beautifui ; most interesting as rvell as rviid, varied, and very rolling woodsoft and meaclow level valley, miles of canyon, sky' land,-all charming in Lright sunlight, under a brilliar-rt Thc constant successiori of fine days ancl ciear nights during retnarl<our trip, rvhich occupiecl exactly a foitnight, is nothing sLllnmers " able in these latitucles, The heartbreaking " lvet here ; ancl rvhich are so common in Great Britain seem unkltolvn * J.rring my 6oo nriles on the cowcatcher, except occasionaily experier-rced any rvhen the sun shone hoily at r.rriclclay, I never inconvenience fr,rm heat or cold' As I From Lyttou to Port Hammond u'e follolv th': Fraser" before unfold rvrite here in my quiet room, those grand gorges

3ro

-DSt

C,rr nnd

ly

me again as they dicl on the clay

I

By Car

Co,tucctltficr. sar,v

therl, ful1 of soft cloud-

sliadows rnovi,g over rnountai, sides, of r,assive clifls rising a hunclred feet frorn the road-bed, crorvned u.ith forest, of dashi"ng rvilci rvaters irissing among huge boulclcrs ir crepths belo*,. A softcr landscape ,ow lies beforc me, as I crreau of graceful irillsidcs, sloping to gree, meado*,s, a,cl u.oocllancl glortus rvith the

,ragnificent foliagc of British col,rnbia-of a great lake

r,vith

park-like clumps of trees decking its green islands,_ot clcep bays se t i, sylvan beauty, rvhere tra,qr-ril rvater reflects'r,hite cloucliets floating i, the blue abovg a,c1 toys ivitrr the dericate foliage that rests on its fair bosom !-Just at such a spot i,r,e killed a pig.

This rvas horv it happene cl. IJaving bee, told that one or nry .iri3r da'rgcrs on the buffer'-beam lvas the possibly snclcic. arrivai of an a,imal's bocly l<illed by the corvcatcher arrd tlrror,v, into my rap, f rvas al,"va1us on the Iool<-out {br such a catastroph", nrr.l iru.l, consolccl to fircl that u,her, as in thc vallcy of the Thompsor) cows persisted in crossing orlr rvay, the er.rgi,cer slacker.red ,p."i, ,rd rvhistled u'til tirey clisappeared. Bui this pig, evicrertly of a.oy

a,c1 shrinkirg nature, dicl revear hirnseri until creath rv*, .1o* 'ot at hand. lVith the ,, Secretary,, on my ,, guest,s ,, candle_box, I rvas enjoying the beauty of the scene juit clescribecl, ,,vhen t'he ,?u,llu1y immediately before us sr.varmed r,vith littie black pigs, rvhich had darted from bushcs grorving ,ear the trzr.cl<.

1-l,;;; \vas a squeak, a flash of somcthirrg ucirr, :urr[ :uvtry lve lvcltt, Ieaving one poor little sacri{icccl bcirrty ])rirrg clcacl on th" roaj behind us. The Secretary averrccl thaf tlic bocly had strucl< hirn in passing; but as I shut rny cycs tiilhtly alrnost .rs sootl as the pigs appearecl, I cannot bear teitirnoiry to thc fact.

Yalc is bea,tifully situatecr o* trre Iirascr. so rrcar ancl precipitous arc the ,rountair.rs here, that i, tlvc,ty-o,c ,rires aftei leavi,g Yale rve pass throrgh eightee'tnn.ers. Every turn rvas a picture, atrd cvcr"y picturc rvas r1e\.\r. The moming air. "on\, rvas sweet ancl pnre; dcrv sparl<lccl evcryrvirere, ancl my grief rvas the prospect of encling ot r journly" lYe passcd many hamlets, chicfly .on,1ros"d of miners, houses, a'd rnany clii,ese calnps, o, the gravclly shores of the riraser far beloi,v, r,vhere the Celestials were .,"nrlri,.,g sand for gold, o' drying salrno, or1 qlleer racl<s .racle of branches a,cl logJ, thrust i.to thc rocl< crevices. sorne of trrese 'o curi'rg " places lvere or.r a large sc;rle, a.cl h,ndrecls of sarmor, cut op& a,c1 pr"essed l1at, clangied over the rvater.

At Ifarrison Lal<e and Ruby frsqk the scenery is especially

I' ,.

$ F

t fr

r

r

t L

t"

r

I r

t?

't

i i $

a I l I

i

,h

I

t.

Jr.

antd 6Y Cozucalclter'

1TI

beautiful. I think it rvas near the former that, as rve roundeci a curve, Motttlt Baker suclder"rly appeared on tlre lrorizorr-r4,ooo feet of sno\,vy shoulders, pink in sunlight, r'vith peaks lilie frozen breath rising straight into the sky' Now neaily 3ooo miles from ottr starting-point, Ottarva' rve ! I mtlst are nearing Port Moody on lJurrard In1et, r,vhere, alas inyself coutettt atrd cor,vcatcher, a,c1 canclle-box Uia gooa-6ye to for victoria. bound stearner a of cleck the on lvitlian easy_chair The Canadian Pacific line rvas not completecl beyoncl Port

Mooclyatthetimelwriteof.Nolvitlrasbeencarricdfor:rvard spot fourteen miles further to its real terminus-and no fairer infant the of site the than I thini<, anyr'vhere, can be founcl

city of Vancouver. ,! ,, br. ,u" go, speecling fonvard to the coast' tneeting the sr'veet tl+eir breath of"ocean mingtect with rich scent of pine boughs' steadily' delicate tips waving: rvelcome as we pass-oll' otl' past swil'tly dorv, to the iea I More speecl, atid r've fly fo^varcl' ancl speecl'' rocL and river, slope, grass-land, ancl lakelet ; more sumlner the i. the ble,di,g of foiest colours grorvs bervildering air; still ml.e, and it is all one liue of rningied blues ancl greells u, ,u. srveep down to the sparkling beauty of that clistant red saucls o{* ocean, nn,l s.e the flash of its bright waters on the a baY

belorvt

MACDoNALD'

^GNES