A passion for travel
fulfilled with Frontiers Fishing, Shooting & Bespoke Travel at its finest
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+44 (0)845 299 6212 | info@frontierstrvl.co.uk | www.frontierstrvl.co.uk
A passion for travel
fulfilled with Frontiers Fishing, Shooting & Bespoke Travel at its finest
Welcome ‌to our 2016/17 Newsletter where we pack in all the news from seasons past as well as what lies ahead. I usually write this introduction after the rest of the newsletter has been written. It focuses the mind and allows time for reflection on the past year. Two big themes come to mind. The first, and perhaps most important in this digital, social media age, is the need to speak to each other. The days of getting letters of enquiry are almost over, phone call enquiries are almost as rare, nowadays it tends to be email or website enquiries. I almost always try and respond as quickly as I can with helpful information but it is always with a request for a chat. There is so much value to a ten-minute conversation. It saves lots of typing from both parties (I am not trying to get out of working!) but more important is the flow of information (which would take ages to type) that takes place in those short few minutes. I often discover where clients have been and crucially if they liked it. This can give us a good indication as to whether they will like what we are discussing. Many misconceptions are also uncovered and these can lead to a major change of plan. Issues over physical abilities can come to light, which again can change the direction of the conversation radically. Bottom line, there is certainly a place for putting itineraries and final plans with
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inclusions and exclusions in writing but before that stage we really value speaking to you (and of course getting to know you) and would like to appeal to you to chat with us before making any final plans. My second reflection as we pieced together this newsletter and prioritised what to include, is how many amazing places there are to go to and enjoy fishing and shooting or both. We would love to have expanded on the wonderful lodges of New Zealand and Tierra del Fuego, the same applies to the stunning trout fishing destinations throughout South America. I think of all the rivers we have not even mentioned in Iceland, both trout and salmon as well as char. We have given some great advice and explanations about Alaska but it has been impossible to mention by name all the options each of which have their strengths. We have hardly scratched the surface of all the saltwater options available, more and more of which are suitable for a non-fishing companion or keen diver. The same applies to all the shooting available abroad. All these amazing opportunities just emphasise the need for a good chat which we look forward to in the coming months. Tarquin Millington-Drake, Managing Director
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Frontiers’ News
Edwina Ord-Hume joins the team
Visit the Frontiers websites
It almost feels strange to be introducing Edwina because she has actually worked for Frontiers for over a year. She joined Frontiers from some pretty interesting previous jobs, the most intriguing of which was working for a private investigator! Edwina comes from a sporting family, some members of whom are much-valued friends and clients, and therefore she understands shooting and fishing having grown up with them. Edwina has been supporting Henrietta for the last year, learning the ropes. She is now taking over the administration of certain destinations for clients travelling in 2017 including South America, New Zealand and Iceland. She lives close to Henrietta so although we all work from home, Edwina and Henrietta (who have been friends throughout their lives) work in the same office most days of the week making our administration that much stronger and more cohesive.
During 2015 Frontiers undertook a major modernisation of its website which has been well received. The ever-popular news service has enjoyed a major upgrade but still remains user-friendly allowing the reader to pick and choose what they want to read at a glance. Please go to frontierstrvl.co.uk.
Ask for our Saltwater Guide We are very proud of our history in the world of saltwater fishing; we practically invented saltwater fishing travel back in the 1970s! We founded Christmas Island and have brought countless other destinations to the attention of the travelling fisherman. Our Saltwater Guide has been an institution since the 1980s and is perhaps the most comprehensive collection of saltwater destinations in print today. A very experienced and knowledgeable team from both this UK Office as well as our team in the US put it together each year. It covers numerous lodges in the Bahamas, Mexico, Belize and Costa Rica plus many of the favourites such as Christmas Island and Alphonse, Farquhar, Astove and Cosmoledo in the Seychelles as well as further afield.
In late 2015 the Ponoi website was also redesigned and upgraded. It shows all the required information and news clearly and concisely, including an explanation of the seasons with supporting video footage. Please go to ponoiriver.com. Do not forget Frontiers Iceland website which grows each year with new salmon and trout options and is perhaps the most comprehensive website on fishing in Iceland. Please go to frontiersiceland.com.
There is no doubt the best advice comes out of a ten-minute conversation with you about what your aspirations are and experiences have been. The 2017 Edition will be available this autumn.
So, if you would rather not go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/ saltwater for all this great information, ask for our Saltwater Guide. Most important, if you plan to fish the salt this coming year, please be sure to talk to us.
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Saltwater Fishing 2017 Featuring Flats and Bluewater Destinations Worldwide
We Share Your Passion
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The Ponoi
what you wa
remote wilderness fishing, wadin
The Ponoi River Spring Season Summary The only factor that stopped the Ponoi from having another bumper spring season was the weather. The first week broke the record for the most fish caught in that week and admittedly enjoyed superb conditions. The horrendous weather for the second week began almost the moment the first week was complete but once that passed things settled down and many enjoyed great fishing. The summer run was strong and came early which gave great optimism for the later spring weeks. The disappointment was that for the first time in a very long time (since 2004 ) the last two weeks of the spring season endured very hot weather. On the one hand it made fishing tough but it was not nearly as tough as everywhere else. The Ponoi does have an extraordinary ability to continue to produce fish no matter what the conditions. The improvements made in camp seem never-ending. Everyone loves the new, single en-suite cabins but lots of other improvements have been happening.
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There is a brand new dock with the boats on both sides and a much better surface to walk on. Two new WCs have been installed near the Big Tent so no need to go back to your cabin! The gym has been upgraded and there is new storage for boats and equipment. All this has been done over the summer break, as well as the usual general maintenance of the camp at large. 2017 Prices The good news is that the 2017 prices have remained the same as for 2016. No price increase! Ten things you need to know about Ryabaga Camp on the Ponoi This is an abridged piece about Ryabaga Camp from Tarquin Millington-Drake’s blog, the full piece can be seen at frontierstrvl.co.uk/rcp The Journey – Most important to note is that you need to be in Helsinki on the Friday night before going to
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i can be
ant it to be
ng under the midnight sun
Russia the next day. The charter service from Helsinki usually leaves around 9 am so check-in is early. Our ground staff will be on hand to help and label your luggage for Ryabaga Camp. The flight is about 90 minutes. Once inside the terminal, you will go through passport control, which can be a little lengthy because there are only two people checking passports. Once through passport control, your bags will be there and you simply pick them up and go through the green channel assuming you are simply bringing your usual fishing gear. The Ryabaga team will meet you on the other side and take you to the VIP room where there are snacks and a pay-bar. The wait is not long, while the bags are scanned and loaded in the helicopter. Once done, back on the bus to the helicopter and you have a two-hour, non-stop flight to camp. The return journey is usually possible in one day. Leave camp at about 9 am, depart Murmansk on the charter flight at about midday, and arrive Helsinki at about 2 pm. We strongly recommend not booking an on-going flight before 4 pm. Although there were issues this
2016 season, it should be possible to check your bags all the way home if using Finnair/British Airways. The Accommodation and Food - Accommodation is now in single en-suite duplex cabins with queensized beds and electric heating. By duplex we mean two en-suite rooms to one building, usually with your fishing partner across the way. You do not share bathrooms and you do not hear snoring because the bathrooms are between the bedrooms. Breakfast is an array of goodies from eggs to order to in-camp pastries, fresh fruit, cereal, porridge etc. Lunch is on the river and comes with signature selections of the world-famous Ryabaga soups and the equally popular freshly baked cookies. In between there are cold meats, salads, cheese, tea, coffee, cold drinks etc. Dinner starts with a plethora of canapĂŠs from sushi to mini-pizzas, the chefs are very creative in that department. Dinner is usually a three-course affair with another legendary soup, a main course of lamb, beef, white fish, King crab etc. There is always a good salad as well as vegetables.
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The Ponoi
what you wa
educational guid
The Camp Social Structure – It may sound tacky but when you arrive the guides will take a picture of you which is put up on the board for all to see with your name underneath. This aids the social flow amongst the guests as well as staff and guests. Ryabaga is a famously sociable camp with a great bar. What really makes it special is that staff and guests gather around the same bar before and after dinner. Each eats at their own table but not further than a few feet apart. This means that guests and staff get to know each other during the week and often end up playing cards, music or whatever together. This is what makes Ryabaga particularly special. Equipment – It is possible to borrow everything from rods and reels to waders, wading boots, wading jackets too but most guests like to bring their own gear. Thus, chest waders, wading boots, a wading jacket and modern layered clothing are essential, as is a waterproof bag of some sort to take on the river into which you can decant layers or from which you can add layers as well as carry extra tackle, camera etc.
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We think that 14ft rods are the ideal rod for Ponoi. It is best to have two rods, one set up with a certain line, perhaps a sink-tip and the other with a different depth line or a floater for skated-fly fishing. Reels need to have at least 100+ yards of backing. Leaders at 15lbs are about right, maybe lighter in summer and a bit heavier in the autumn. Regarding flies, it is our view that it is better and cheaper to buy a few of what is working at the time you are on the river from the camp tackle shop. Bring a wading stick if you like to use one, they do have a few in camp, also bring a life jacket if you like, they also have gas bottles in camp. A Typical Day – It really begins the night before when you meet your guide for the next day (guides are assigned to a beat for the week so guests will fish with six different guides during the week). During your chat he or she will take your order for drinks, discuss tackle, and this is a good time to talk about wading versus fishing from the boats, fitness levels, ailments etc. Hot breakfast from 8 am with guides coming to your cabins to help with your gear at 8.45 am. You head down to
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ant it to be
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the boats on foot or by vehicle and head off for the day around 9 am. The journey to your beat is anything from one to 40 minutes. You can have lunch whenever you wish, wherever you wish, in the boat, in the river tents on the beats or at a pretty spot along the river. Lines are up at 6 pm unless you have a fish on. You will get back to the dock between just after 6 pm and about 6.45 pm. There is time to shower and get to the bar for canapés before dinner at 8 pm. What time you retire is up to you! For the less able – Ponoi is almost unique in its ability to look after the less able. There are vehicles to take you down the hill from the helicopter and from the camp to the boats. There are copious amounts of attentive staff to help you into the boat. You can sit on a chair while you cast if you need to but the boats are very, very stable. For the able – The other end of the scale is really wading all day which is perfectly possible. I do it every time I visit Ponoi and I catch plenty of fish. If you want almost endless wading, Ponoi is the place. Some wading is easy, some tough, the key to being productive is choosing the water to fish and/or walk past. There is a wonderful sense of freedom and remoteness to being left on the river to work things out for yourself. It is simply a myth to say that Ponoi is boat fishing only. The Spring – We classify spring as the first week’s fishing to the last full June week which is usually four weeks. This is the time of plenty and one of these four weeks will be the best of the season every time. Which one depends on the weather and how the river settles down to a good height and temperature. These weeks will usually be the top four weeks of the season (30
to 50 fish per rod on average). Once the river is warm enough, the fish will start taking skated flies and this is when it is at its best and most spectacular in terms of aggressive takes. Home Pool also comes into its prime. If you want numbers of fish, this is the time for you. The Summer – This is classified as the first of the cusp June/July weeks until the camp closes for the summer recess. We include these weeks when we speak of the spring season which is classified as the weeks the camp is first open before the summer break. It is also the time when the summer run comes into the river. This is a grilse run mixed with bigger females predominantly but there are some larger male fish among them. The fishing is often more technical, the river is lower (Ponoi is never too low to be good fishing) and therefore at its most interesting. If you want good value fishing (20 to 30 fish per rod), these are the weeks. The Autumn – This is the entire autumn season which starts from early August when the camp returns from its break, all the way through to the beginning of October. The autumn is all about the fresh autumn or Fall run. They start on 6th August almost to the day and keep coming long after we have all gone home. The early autumn weeks are exciting because everyone is hoping to catch the first ‘minters’ which explode at the fly and take off down the river. With each week that passes so the run grows and the ratio between old and new fish changes. By early September the new are usually in the higher percentage and that continues to increase as temperatures decrease. If you are OK with less fish (20 to 35 fish per rod) but want the bigger (1025lbs) explosive, legendary autumn-run Ponoi fish, this is the time for you! For more information go to ponoiriver.com
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Relax and enjoy
the best deals in Cordoba great shooting, superb food at comfortable lodges
Cordoba Lodge - special offer It is no secret that Cordoba in Argentina is the top high-volume shooting location in the world. It is famed for its ridiculous numbers of eared doves that verge on biblical plague proportions. If you have read our newsletters and brochures over the years you will know all of this so why, you might be wondering, are we bringing this up again. Dove shooting in Argentina has become a highly competitive marketplace. This is great news for you but not so good for the lodges. This has put Frontiers in the unique position of being able to offer you the best value shooting in Cordoba we have ever offered and are ever likely to offer again. So if you have been mulling over a visit or are just itching to go again then now is the time. Why book Cordoba through Frontiers? Frontiers is totally unmatched in its knowledge and experience in handling Cordoba, we have been involved since the first lodge was set up many years ago. Since then, we have kept our fingers on the pulse and we are constantly travelling to Argentina to reaffirm our relationships and to check we are still offering the best of the best in terms of the product. Tarquin stopped in briefly at Pica Zuro with a couple of clients and enjoyed a few days shooting on his South American tour this year. He reported back that everything is as expected. On top of our knowledge and experience we are also a Four Seasons Preferred Partner as well as a member
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of Virtuoso. This enables us to pass on various member benefits to you when you book your hotels in Buenos Aires through us. These benefits include, but are not limited to, priority check in and a free upgrade depending on availability. We are the only agents in the UK that can offer this. Summary of the lodges – Pica Zuro and La Dormida are the top lodges in Argentina, and have access to the best shooting fields with the lowest drive times. You are, after all, going to shoot not sit in a transfer vehicle. Pica Zuro is the lodge that set the tone and all others aspire to match this lodge. Highly traditional this is a firm favourite with the guests. La Dormida is newer and appeals to those who prefer a more modern approach. Finally there is Cordoba Lodge, the entry level lodge, which we covered in depth last year. Cordoba Lodge is ideal for small groups of friends who want a bit of privacy while enjoying the excellent sport Cordoba has to offer. The Deal – Book to travel before the end of 2016 and the prices will be as follows (subject to T&Cs): Cordoba Lodge $500 per person per night Pica Zuro and La Dormida $600 per person per night Please contact Richard Scrope via +44 (0)845 299 6212 ext 4 or on fishshoot@frontierstrvl.co.uk
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Partridge Shooting in Spain
La Nava
Ventosilla
Let us set the scene. You are sitting on a veranda overlooking the surrounding hills which are covered in olive trees, there is the smell of wild rosemary in the air. The sun is setting and a white-gloved waiter is topping up your favourite tipple. You are surrounded by a team of good friends discussing the most incredible day’s partridge shooting you have all just enjoyed. Behind you is what is widely regarded as the most luxurious shooting lodge in Spain, La Nava. There are shooting lodges and then there is La Nava. The lodge was purpose built to the highest standard as a shooting lodge. What we love is the attention to detail.
Ventosilla has always been one of Frontiers’ favourite estates in Spain. It has the spectacular palace along with traditional partridge shooting with high drives for those preferring high birds. This is why we recommend it, it is the classic Spanish experience. This year we were lucky enough to visit in February to see the bathrooms which have been upgraded, while retaining the traditional feel of the palace. This trip re-affirmed why we favour Ventosilla so much. Everything from the palace to the food and service was superb yet at a relaxed pace.
The shooting at La Nava complements the lodge perfectly. Spread across tens of thousands of acres, the estate can offer shooting to challenge guns of all experience levels. If you prefer the traditional Spanish style or the back-bending English-style high birds, La Nava has both in droves. Javier, the owner, runs a tight ship and it shows across the shooting field and back at the lodge. All members of his staff are trained to the highest standard and they will ensure that everything from your guns to your after-shoot massage is looked after.
Ventosilla is hands down the most historic shooting estate in Spain, where the first-ever driven shoot was held in 1884 by the current owners’ great great grandfather. If it is a traditional old school ambience that you seek then look no further than Ventosilla and its host Antonio. Antonio is one of the most charismatic hosts you will encounter, he is a passionate shot and this reflects on how he runs Ventosilla. Top five reasons to visit Spain: excellent shooting, fantastic food, pleasant weather, something different and stunning scenery. To read more on our recent trip please visit: frontierstrvl.co.uk/pss.
General Info
Season: Beginning of September to end of February | Guns: Single guns or full teams
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A passion for fishing
fulfilled in Iceland Atlantic salmon, brown trout and arctic char in gin-clear water
2016 Season Summary The 2016 Icelandic season started at fever pitch. If you think we get excited when there are some fish about, try the Icelanders! What actually took place was complex and unusual. First, due to the numbers of fish and the mild spring the fish ran early, very early. Rivers were full of fish before their season had even begun. We often talk in terms of well-known spots or lies being five, four or three-star hotels, well, for some rivers they were all full before a fly was cast which is unprecedented. The result was that the rivers started extremely well. Not only were there lots of fish but they were all multi-sea-winter fish from the great mild spring when the smolts went to sea so well in 2014. It really was looking like a bumper year for Iceland but what misled many was that there were grilse amongst the bigger fish which is usually a sign that there are plenty of grilse too, thus a potentially very good year. Two less positive elements evolved as the season progressed. First, the grilse run did not materialise as some hoped, which tells us that the cold spring of 2015 did take its toll. Then, to make matters worse the normal rains never came and have still not come at the time of writing. These two factors changed the tone of the season and made fishing tough for many. Rivers that are mostly grilse rivers like Langa, Leiresveit and Grimsa had a very tough time, though with the mild spring this year, they should be in great
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shape for 2017. Others with more mixed stocks had enough bigger fish coming in to keep the fishing of a standard. Some rivers like Thvera/Kjarra, Vididalsa and Midfjardara did have a reasonable grilse run and fish managed to keep running despite the lack of water. We try to host the majority of our guests during the season and with the lower water this year we encouraged them to bring light rods – 5 or 6 weights. We then gathered the teams and gave them a selection of small flies and an advisory pep talk! Our advice included, avoid wading if possible, avoid bright colours, no spey casting, long, light leaders, small flies and hitch only, avoid sky-line silhouettes. Everyone was superb in applying these guidelines and consequently we had many successes. The experienced rods really did pretty well but we also had some families fishing with us and they did really well too, the most notable were Team Fell where the boys caught quite a few fish, their first on the hitch etc. too, and the Wood family who all caught their first Atlantic salmon. There were some big ones too, a 22lbs fish from Thvera on a size 16 green butt by Chris and a 27lbs fish from the Vididalsa on a hitch caught by another Chris! In summary, we feel that under the circumstances our guests did very well. If you plan to go to Iceland in 2017, please remember to contact us and plan early.
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Salmon and Trout Fishing in Iceland
Improvements for 2017
Trout matters...
This year the lodge at the Thvera had an enlarged and refurbished sitting and dining room which was appreciated by all the guests. For next season, there will be seven, large, brand new rooms added to the lodge. This means that each rod has a bigger room but it also means that rod-sharers no longer need to share a room at Thvera. We are slowly trying to convince all the lodges in Iceland that sharing a room is really a thing of the past, especially the small old-fashioned ones! The Vididalsa has already made this adjustment and it really makes a difference to guests’ experience.
Our season on the ION Beats of Lake Thingvallavatn has been a great success with most wishing to return. Thankfully our friends at the lake enjoy our clients and would welcome us having more dates so we hope we may have some more space available for 2017. The key to this fishery, besides the extraordinary fish, is how challenging and interesting the fishing is. This is not hacking a long line out against the wind. Far from it, short casts and stealth are best and nymphs and dry flies have been very successful. The ease of the trip is also popular; arrive on day one, fish PM, fish two days, fish AM last day and home. To read more go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/ion. If you would like to join us next season, please let us know soon. A big thanks to Joey, Steffan and Bjarni for great guiding and superb organisation.
There will also be brand new (long-overdue) guest accommodation at the Nordura for 2017. The current guest rooms will make more space for guides and will also provide some accommodation for rod-sharers to have a private room. This is really big and positive news for the Nordura which is one of the great rivers of Iceland especially in the early season of late June and early July. If Nordura is on fire during this period, there is no better fishing in Iceland. Frontiers have some excellent dates available for 2017, subject to 2016 clients not returning. Finally, we are very pleased to be adding the wonderful Hafralonsa river to our portfolio. This is a remote, wild, young man’s river in the north-east of Iceland. It is a beautiful river with deep canyons and strong fast water with big fish. Please have a look at frontiersiceland.com/hafralonsa
We have continued our research for interesting trout and char fishing. Some places are just a day, others a longer period but we can organise a great few days mixed trout and char fishing. We witnessed some very special wild trout fishing in the north of Iceland on a river which shall remain unnamed. It is suitable for two rods for two days and then it should be rested for at least a week. We skated hoppers and had wonderful takes from 2 to 4lbs fish (they go up to about 6 or 7lbs) which were incredibly strong, it was like hooking a grilse but the trout use the river and whizz all over. These fish take up to ten years to get to this size and beauty. This is a special experience for those inclined.
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Welcom
Frontiers B
a personal, non-sporting worldw
SOUTH AFRICA: Leobo Private Reserve While many African lodges focus on safari, the owner of this private house, British entrepreneur Rory Sweet, decided that the backbone of his property should instead be, quite simply, good honest fun. He believes early mornings and tick-list itineraries are not a holiday, and people have forgotten to really enjoy themselves. What he has created in South Africa is the perfect solution to après-safari. For families or groups of friends who love Africa and the great outdoors, but have been on the world’s best safaris already, Leobo is inspired. A few hours north of Johannesburg, deep in the wilderness of the Waterberg biosphere, is the Leobo Private Reserve. 23,000 acres of private land marked by open plains, African wildlife, mountains, rivers, gorges, forests, clear water lakes, and even a sandy river-beach deep in the ravine only accessed spectacularly by helicopter. Leobo doesn’t prescribe daily activities or time constraints. You and your friends are welcomed into this family’s home and enthusiastically shown the time of your life. Guests might find themselves jumping off quad bikes to then catch bass in the lake, on to horses to ride alongside giraffe and zebra, or suddenly being whisked away by a helicopter to have sundowners on the mountain top. You can do whatever you like and as much of it as you can manage. And it’s unique. Where else do you dine under a hippo skeleton chandelier, don fancy dress space suits to explore the night sky from a research grade observatory, or paintball from a helicopter? Leobo puts the fun back in to travel while maintaining the highest standard of service and hospitality. There really is nowhere else like it. Leobo is available on an exclusive basis only so why not book for your next family holiday or to celebrate a milestone birthday with friends. Please contact Lara MacDonald for further details.
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lara.macdonald@frontierstrvl.co.uk
me to
Bespoke
wide travel advisory service
SRI LANKA With its tropical climate and golden beaches, ancient Buddhist temples, wildlife safaris and lush green hills dotted with tea plantations, Sri Lanka should definitely be on your travel bucket list. Lara MacDonald will be visiting Sri Lanka in September to check out the abundance of new hotel openings including: Tri Lanka, the country’s first truly “contemporary, sustainable design hotel” with only 11 unique suites flanking the serene Lake Koggala. Conceived by British photographer Robert Drummond and his yogainstructor wife Lara Baumann (founder of ‘Quantum Yoga’) whose clients include Sienna Miller and Gerard Butler. Classes for all levels, beginners and die-hards. Nineskies and Goatfell (opening early 2017), renovations of rarely found vintage managers’ bungalows located along the tea country route near Ella and Nuwara Eliya and within working tea plantations. Fort Bazaar, an 18-room boutique hotel set within a sensitively restored 17th century town house right in the heart of historic Galle Fort and within walking distance of boutiques, bars, restaurants, colonial churches, heritage buildings and Galle’s international test cricket ground. And the recently opened Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort which sits within 42 acres of coconut plantation, hidden on a rocky outcrop with stunning Indian Ocean views.
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An obsession
fulfilled in Th
bonefish, milkfish
Ten reasons to visit Alphonse in 2017 1. The Island The island is a quintessential tropical paradise set like a jewel in the sapphire waters of the Indian Ocean. Formerly a commercial coconut plantation, the island is ringed by soft white sandy beaches with turquoise water extending as far as the eye can see. The accommodation is not the most luxurious in the Seychelles but it will delight you with its Robinson Crusoe charm and is certainly very comfortable. It is the ideal place to come and switch off for a week or two with friends and family. 2. Bonefish When you hop off your skiff into the warm kneedeep water on the flats of St Franรงois you start to understand why this is regarded by many as one of, if not the, best bonefish fisheries in the world. There are moments when these awesomely sporty fish flow past you in rivers and it leaves one speechless. You want to catch 100 plus bonefish in a week? No problem, tuck in; sit back, let your reel scream and enjoy. 3. Species As you walk across the coral fingers you will see species after species of fish. In fact, there are 60 separate species that you can catch on the fly around the atolls. What other destination around the world can offer that sort of inventory? From the menacing giant trevally,
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or GT as they are known, to the fickle triggerfish and powerful milkfish, Alphonse has it all, and then some. 4. The Diving and Snorkelling The professional dive team run daily dives to the 13 dive sites on the Alphonse Atolls, which have something to offer all standards of divers. The sites have sheer drop offs, rich currents and abundant sea life. You can expect daily encounters with stingrays, Manta rays, turtles, Moray eels, barracuda, wahoo, sharks, tuna, grouper and many others. If diving is not your thing then have a go at the snorkelling, which offers a great opportunity to explore this underwater paradise. There are also kayaks available. 5. Other-half Friendly Historically fly fishing was not very non-fisher friendly, but thankfully change is well established. More and more lodges are set up for the non-fishing partner. This is particularly true in the saltwater world where there are generally plenty of other activities for non-fishing guests. This is very much the case with Alphonse which could well be a luxury destination in its own right. If your partner does not want to join in on the fishing there is a pool, a mini-spa and miles of white sandy beaches to explore plus the diving, snorkelling and kayaking mentioned above.
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n with the salt
he Seychelles
h, GTs and permit
6. The Guides There is quite simply no better place to learn to fish. From the location, to the guides, to the numbers of fish, Alphonse has it all. As someone who grew up thrashing the west coast Scottish rivers, I would happily have swapped those cold, midge-filled days of no fish for just one day in the clear, warm waters of St François. The guides are all young, keen and very enthusiastic, as well as being great company. They will have you whipping out fish after fish in no time. 7. The Permit The Indo-Pacific permit is the holy grail of saltwater fish. When you see that yellow dorsal fin approaching your fly you can’t help but feel the excitement build. Will he…won’t he…who knows? Let’s be honest, 9 times out of 10 the fish is going to ignore your fly, then on the 10th everything comes together perfectly and the permit inhales your fly – it is the stuff dreams are made of. 8. The Milkfish There is something slightly sadistic about fishing for milkfish. If you manage to hook one of these beasts then you are in for 1-2 hours of heaven and hell. The milkfish is going to beat you up so badly but you are going to love every minute of it. After the fish runs into your backing for the umpteenth time you are going
to be ready to cry as it launches itself like a torpedo before taking off again like a bat out of hell. They may be the toughest vegetarians on the planet! 9. Bills and Bones Slam There are very few locations around the world where you can spend the morning on blue water chasing down an awesome sailfish on a fly, then pull up on the flats, swap rods and land a bonefish for a ‘Bills and Bones’ slam. The waters around the atolls are very well protected and there is no commercial fishing, as a result the waters are teeming with sailfish, wahoo, dogtooth tuna, yellowfin tuna and dorado. These will all get the adrenaline up while putting a serious bend in any rod. 10. Freedom There is no such thing as enforced fun on Alphonse, you can do as much or as little as you want. If you don’t want to go for a week’s fishing why not go as a leisure guest and self guide around the flats of Alphonse Island (as opposed to St François where the more full-on action takes place), which is one hell of a destination in its own right. This can be combined with a couple of days of relaxation, or alternatively you can head out on the blue water boat or go for a dive at one of the world-class diving sites.
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Christmas Island We have been sending clients to Christmas Island for over 30 years, in fact Frontiers pioneered the fishing there. Accessing Christmas Island is done through Honolulu, where guests overnight. If you have time you can always catch a fish or two on the stopover. Continuing on to Christmas Island you will find a wild and remote fishery that should be up there on the top of your destinations to visit. In the middle of the South Pacific this vast fishery is home to some of the best species fishing on the planet, think Alphonse but more basic. Situated on the lagoon, Ikari House is comfortable but not luxurious, all the bedrooms have private bathrooms and a/c. Guests can fish for numerous bonefish, three species of trevally including giants, three species of triggerfish and, of course, the milkfish. The key to Christmas Island is the endless wading on beautiful white flats with superb visibility not to mention being great value for money. On top of the superb flats fishing there is also great blue water fishing. Go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/ikari-house
Zancudo - Costa Rica Costa Rica is one of Central America’s great destinations for both offshore and inshore fishing. Leading the pack is Zancudo Lodge located on the south-west coast of Costa Rica, bordered by the Rio Coto to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. This five-star, beachfront property is an intimate lodge and a great destination to take nonfishing partners and family to enjoy a couple of days fishing without causing dissent in the ranks. For the fisherman, the inshore and offshore fishing is fantastic with plenty of species to catch, notably: billfish, dorado, tuna and rooster fish all of which can be caught on the fly. For the non-fishing members of the party there are eco-tours to see the local wildlife, and mangroves as well as activities such as paddleboarding, kayaking and zip lining. Costa Rica is a year-round destination and Zancudo is an ideal place to enjoy some winter sun with the family. Go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/zancudo
Kamalame Cay - Bahamas It is rare that a fishing lodge and luxury come together in the same sentence but that is starting to change. Leading the way is Kamalame Cay located on Andros Island in the Bahamas. This lodge defines luxury, making it the ideal location to take your other half or non-fishing companions. Nestled among the palm trees is a selection of different styles of properties that enable you to tailor your visit to your requirements, from private one-bedroom cottages to 7,500 square foot villas, there is a property to suit your needs. Step off the island and you are straight onto the flats that make the Bahamas one of the best bonefish destinations around. One of the unique features of Kamalame Cay is the home flats which guests are welcome to fish at any time. This makes Kamalame Cay the perfect destination for couples, looking to enjoy each other’s company as well as some great fly fishing. Go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/kamalame-cay
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Grand Slam Lodge - Mexico Ascension Bay, Mexico: world famous flats fishing and home to Grand Slam Lodge, one of the best fishing lodges on the Yucatan peninsula. This year-round destination is one of the finest saltwater fisheries in the world. If you just want to chase bonefish or test your luck against permit then Ascension Bay has something for all anglers. The permit fishing here can be exceptional with fish up to 30lbs possible year round. As well as permit and bones, you can also fish for tarpon, jack, barracuda and snook. Like most saltwater destinations, Grand Slam Lodge is non-fisher friendly with plenty of activities such as snorkelling, visiting Mayan ruins or just ambling along the beach combing for interesting finds. Back at the lodge you will be welcomed into one of the most comfortable fishing lodges in the Caribbean. The private beach is a perfect place to enjoy a sundowner after an excellent day on the flats. Go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/grand-slam-fishing-lodge
St Brandon’s Atoll - Mauritius St Brandon’s Atoll is no longer a live aboard destination. Previously all guests visiting St Brandon’s used to have to stay on board MY Gryphon, but this is no longer the case. A new guest house has been constructed on Raphael Island, located in the northern part of this chain of fifty islands. The guest house is basic but clean and comfortable. To get to St Brandon’s it still requires a 26+/- hour boat transfer from Mauritius. Mauritius often plays second fiddle to the Seychelles but the fishing here is fantastic. If you want to chase down double figure bonefish or fish one of the best Indo-Pacific permit fisheries, then St Brandon’s is the place. Guests will also often encounter GTs while on the flats. It’s worth noting that they are not as numerous as other destinations in the Indian Ocean but they are BIG… It is normal to catch fish over a metre not under. Trips are sold as a 7-day fishing package with 10 nights starting at $7,500. Go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/st-brandons-atoll
Isla Holbox - Mexico Isla Holbox is a tarpon fisher’s dream, and there are fish on station in the waters around this island all year round. The smaller baby tarpon are here all year with the larger migratory fish showing up towards the end of May through to August. Located off the north-west coast of the Yucatan peninsula, this island is part of the world that time forgot. There are no roads, no cars, the only method of transport is a golf buggy or two. Holbox is yet another saltwater destination that is non-fisher friendly, providing your partner is happy lazing around on pristine, white, uncrowded beaches while you are off fishing. The island is totally unspoiled with only a limited number of tourists travelling there each year. It is very welcoming and has a good selection of seafood restaurants, with a typically Italian flair, and also non-fishing activities. Holbox offers excellent value with a 6-day/7-night package starting from $2,695. As well as tarpon there are Jack Crevalle in abundance. Go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/holbox-fly-fishing-lodge
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January and Febr
fulfilled in L
bones, permit, tarp
Los Roques, Venezuela - why it is so good year-round We are so often asked about fishing the saltwater in January or February, and we always try and explain to clients why Los Roques is so reliable at this time of year. Tides are affected by winds and sea currents, which even though stable, impact the tides and the accuracy of predicting them. Depending on these factors, the levels of water change on the flats but not dramatically. For example, if winds are strong, there is more water entering the flats. The moon phases have little effect at Los Roques and are hardly a consideration. Los Roques benefits from a huge number of flats and beaches to fish and these are chosen each day depending on the wind and tide. There is a solid explanation for why Los Roques consistently delivers good water temperatures and levels of water on the flats and therefore reliable numbers of bonefish in January and February. It is all related to its location, which is 12 degrees north of the equator, 80 miles off the northern coast of Venezuela. Being so close to the equator the sun arcs overhead in perfect 12-hour intervals therefore ensuring more
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stable sea currents and winds than other locations which do not perform equally all year around. These destinations have to be targeted in a short and accurate season, otherwise the fishing can be unpredictable. Cold fronts passing through the United States can impact the weather and the fishing thus causing disappointment. Los Roques enjoys constant trade winds creating currents that circulate the water and replace overly warmed surface water while oxygenating it. Since warmer water holds less oxygen, this turn over and oxygenation keeps the surface water quality high in areas directly exposed to the wind. This means that the flats on Los Roques are always kept fresh but rarely suffer from overly cold water caused by cold fronts. It makes for the perfect flats environment and this creates the reliability in the early months of the year. Another aspect separating Los Roques from most other locations is the variety of flats and beaches where bonefish can be found. It means that there is always somewhere good to fish no matter the tide.
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ruary in the sun
Los Roques
pon, snook etc
January - The level of the water in January is generally high so guests see fewer tailing fish than in other months. Make no mistake, you will see tailing fish and there will be plenty of cruising fish on both the flats and beaches. Most important, you would be very unlucky to experience weather disturbance during your days of fishing as is so often the case elsewhere. Another advantage of fishing this month is that the fish are totally unpressured having been hardly fished since November. January and February are great months for fishing baitfish patterns, something Los Roques is famous for and is rare elsewhere. The takes are fast attacks rather than the crab/shrimp ‘pick up’ takes you get on the flats so a good strong leader is necessary. We enjoy the variety of doing both and it is great fun to spot big bones hunting the beach and see them attack a baitfish pattern with gusto! February - The level of the water starts to reduce with good levels on the flats for longer hours. Los Roques is fished based on the guides understanding of tides and wind and February is very productive. Guests and guides take advantage of the rising tide to cast to tailing fish at least 3-4
hours a day. It is a great month with little pressure on the flats and good levels of water with the option of the beaches. March, April and May - March has good water levels on the flats with longer rising tides than February; it is a month in which one can actually see lots of bonefish tailing close to each other. There are long periods of the day with virtually no water on the flats therefore guests fish deeper water flats and beaches until the right rising tide when the bonefish feed madly, almost recklessly, on un-weighted flies. This is another factor that makes Los Roques a unique destination and perfect for the angler who wants to wade for the big tailing bones. April and May are similar to March and the wind starts to slow down. Los Roques is a truly year-round destination with varying tides, currents and winds impacting the fishing but very rarely adversely. The larger tarpon and permit are best in November but present year-round. To read more about Los Roques go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/lrb
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A thirst for adventure
quenched in Argentina stunning, wild, rainbow trout
Wild Rainbow Heaven Nine years ago names like Monster Bay, Sea Bay or El Puesto meant nothing to us fly fishers but in a few short years they have become iconic, hallowed pieces of water that we talk of with lust in our eyes and dream of fishing when conditions are right. They have very quickly established themselves amongst the great, revered fly-fishing destinations and deservedly so. They are named bays and features on the Estancia Laguna Verde water of Lago Strobel (aka Jurassic Lake) in southern Argentina, five hours from the town of El Calafate. So what is the story behind these celebrated pieces of water?
first person they contacted about their new project and we have worked together ever since. This is no grand lodge. It has a pioneer or outpost feel to it with traditional hand carved stone walls forming the first and main part of the building, but inside it is cosy, warm and very friendly and everything one would hope for from a lodge in such a remote place and harsh environment. The staff are friendly and welcoming and the seven rooms are a good size, each en-suite with all necessary facilities. It is not long before you are sitting down to lunch with Luciano offering you something from his extensive wine collection!
It begins in 1989 when Julio Citadini, a Peace Judge and the then owner of the 40,000 acre Estancia Laguna Verde decided to put 50,000 fingerlings from the Santa Cruz river (originally McCloud river strain rainbow trout) into the Barrancoso river to try and create some fishing for himself. He assumed they had all died until some years later, while walking along this remote river, he spooked some trout and chuckled to himself that in fact, it seemed to have worked. Move on to 2008 and Julio decided to sell the estancia and Roberto and Luciano Alba, a father and son team of lawyers from Santa Rosa, La Pampa, who had enjoyed a lifetime of fishing together since Luciano was a boy, decided to buy the estancia and develop it for the enjoyment of the fly-fishing fraternity. I was flattered that I was the
That first afternoon we were faced with a rare situation of having no wind and sitting in the car watching rising fish. As the numbers of fish rising grew to the point of ridicule (one would cast to a sighted fish and spook a half dozen one had not seen, like spooking bonefish), we switched tactics to a bigger dry, a small mouse-type pattern. Trout began to come and look at the fly and it was not long before we had our first 4 or 5lbs fish, humble by Strobel standards, but the most beautiful strong rainbow trout. More rises followed which did not hook up, but then a great solid take of the dry by a good fish which took off tail-walking and jumping chaotically. It was a beautiful 10lbs+ fish in perfect condition, still not a monster for Lago Strobel! For the full story go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/elv
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Tierra del Fuego TDF is far from an extension option, it is undoubtedly a very good, and usually the main, reason for heading to South America. There is lots of chat about it not being like the good old days but where else in the world can one find such fish? Once again this past year produced sea trout of over 20 and 30lbs. Another commonly discussed topic is ‘the wind’ and yes it does blow and can blow very hard. However, it is once in a blue moon that it blows against you so it basically helps you get your line where it needs to be rather than hinders. As for the place, ‘the land of fire’ has to be experienced, the landscape, the pastel skies, the wildlife and the wildness. It is truly a magical place. There are four lodge options all of which we know well (following over 30 years’ experience with TDF) and can advise on, but our best advice is everyone needs to go at least once!
Argentine and Chilean Patagonia Not really an add-on either, but another great reason to head south in the winter. There is every conceivable option for trout fishing between Chile and Argentina. There are lodges that specialise in dry fly fishing, others that fish the bigger rivers and float them (one of the most scenic and social ways to fish for trout and it does not mean you cannot stop, wade and fish to rising fish). Then of course there are lodges that do it all. Argentina offers arid scenery while Chile can be more lush and green with white-capped mountains. Some of the famous lodges include Tipilluke, San Huberto and the new, and rapidly becoming famous for its bigger fish, Limay River Lodge. On the Chilean side, Coyhaique River Lodge is very popular with our clients and they do a great job with those non-fishing partners too. Martin Pescador enjoys a very strong following for the quality of the fishing and Estancia de los Rios enjoys huge variety of fishing on its 360,000 acres!
Dorado Options The wonderful gold and green predator, the dorado, is rapidly becoming a species worth travelling for as anglers get to know and gain respect and affection for this great game fish. Their take has to be experienced to be believed and then there is the acrobatic display. There are three main options. The first is Pira Lodge, located in Argentina’s northern province of Corrientes. Pira enjoys a tropical climate and is repeatedly labelled one of the world’s top guest accommodations by returning guests. Surrounded by the vast 3-million acre Ibera Marsh, Pira enjoys crystalclear waters ideal for sight-fishing to cruising dorado with top-water floating lines; a technique that produces explosive, heart-stopping takes. The second option, ideal for an add-on because of its easy travel, is Alto Parana, go to frontierstrvl.co.uk/ap to see more. A third option, which requires booking well in advance, is La Zona famous for its huge dorado up to and over 50lbs.
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Time in the wilderness
enjoyed in Alaska five species of salmon, rainbow trout and char
Think of Alaska in Threes Alaska’s lodges and seasons explained We all understand that Alaska has amazing fly fishing for numerous species in what is still the most stunning, wildlife-stuffed wilderness. But when it gets to which lodge and the best time to go, and for what species, things get a bit more complex. Basically there are three seasons and three types of lodge. Spring – This is when the rivers are high, the weather is still improving and the leaves are coming out. Perhaps the most powerful of all freshwater fish, the King salmon, runs, and 40 and 50lbs fish are not uncommon. For the biggest, freshest fish on the fly perhaps last week in June and first of July when the rivers are fining down. Summer – By the third week in July we are in to summer, which brings the prime time for sockeyes, chum and pink salmon as well as rainbow trout, char and dolly varden. This is the best mixed-species part of the season, but there are mosquitoes. Autumn – We call this the National Geographic time. The colours start to change, the sockeye are spawning, the rainbows grow fat gorging on eggs and the most plentiful and free-taking salmon of all, the silvers, start to run in big numbers and the mosquitoes have gone!
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Fixed and Mobile Camps – Some operators build a camp on one river and fish from it all season using boats to travel the river, others will float a river with all the equipment and set up camp in a different spot each night. This is the cheapest Alaskan option with the greatest adventure and is closest to the wilderness. Fixed Lodges – These lodges are permanent structures, often very comfortable, built on a river, accessing the river by boat, fishing wading or from the boat. They also often offer the option to fly out for day trips to other river systems. This tends to be the middle way in terms of cost and is a good choice for a guest with a single species focus. Fly-Out Lodges – These lodges are often stunningly located on lakes or rivers but they fly out to different river systems each day where they have guides, with boats, camping while watching the river to know where the fish are. These lodges often offer private water or even a private overnight wilderness camp experience before returning to the luxury of the lodge itself. These are the most expensive options but comfortable whether at the lodge or camp and with the best species and fishing location mix. When planning a trip to Alaska, please be sure to allow us the time to have a chat about your objectives.
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British Columbia
Not forgotten...
British Columbia has been the source of numerous enquiries over recent autumns with interest in steelhead and also the Kings early in the season as well and mixed species in late August when it is possible to catch steelhead and silver salmon. We have decided that a refresher on British Columbia is required and therefore Tarquin Millington-Drake is heading out in October to visit a mixture of camps and lodges, which will suit the hard core angler as well as those seeking a little more comfort.
We could produce a 50 page newsletter because we advise on many destinations but one of the most prominent is New Zealand, perhaps the centre of the world when it comes to sighted fishing for large trout. We have advised on New Zealand for over 30 years and have a department dedicated to both fishing and general travel, indeed we have advised on itineraries up to a month long upcoming for 2017. But then destinations like the taimen of Mongolia and the dorado of Bolivia (see frontierstrvl.co.uk/tsb) enjoy great interest too but we cannot feature everywhere all the time. Tsimane, now have a tented camp, which is better priced at $5,380 per rod.
Steelheading is not for everyone because conditions are not always perfect and rivers can blow out reducing one’s chances. At best, catch expectancy should be a fish a day, more is certainly possible but equally less is certainly possible. The objective is to identify locations, which have depth of access to watersheds to maximize reliability. On the positive side, steelhead are the most wild, beautiful fish and a must for any serious salmonid fisher. They travel huge distances into the interior of British Columbia and yet test our tackle to the max when we hook them. They really are the epitome of a wild fish and it is a tribute to them that so many make the pilgrimage to catch them. All fishing is with single barbless hooks. The fish generally require a slower and deeper fly than Atlantic salmon though they will rise and take skated flies aggressively. British Columbia’s King salmon are another species well worth the travel, they are probably the strongest of all the salmonids. Look out for a full report this autumn.
Let’s also not forget the American West, Montana, Wyoming etc. We have a department dedicated to the American West too and look after many fishers and families that want a mixed ‘dude ranch’ holiday. What about Brazil for peacock bass and the giant arapaima? These are destinations that carry great intrigue but need some advice and co-ordination. The mahseer of India on the fly come high on the list for many and we helped with a special trip to Bhutan as well. Closer to home there are also the stunning trout streams of Slovenia and northern Spain, the list goes on. We are an advisory service and if we do not know ourselves, we usually know someone who does. As suggested in the opening of this newsletter, feel welcome to ask and let’s talk!
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and so much more
www.frontierstrvl.co.uk more destinations | more detail | more news | more photographs
A Passion for Travel FOR US IT IS A PASSION - A passion for travel and a passion to share Many of the flights and flight-inclusive holidays in this newsletter are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. But ATOL protection does not apply to all holiday and travel services listed in this newsletter. Please ask us to confirm what protection may apply to your booking. If you do not receive an ATOL Certificate then the booking will not be ATOL protected. If you do receive an ATOL Certificate but all the parts of your trip are not listed on it, those parts will not be ATOL protected. Please see our booking conditions for information, or for more information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to: www.atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate. Our ATOL number is ATOL 3315. Copyright © 2016 Frontiers International Travel. All rights reserved. ABTOT may also provide financial protection for some of the holidays we list and full details can be found on our website. Our ABTOT number is 5309. Photo Credits: Tarquin Millington-Drake, Tosh Brown, Richard Scrope, Barry and Cathy Beck, FlyCastaway St Brandon’s (front cover).
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Kennet Cottage Kempsford Gloucestershire GL7 4EQ Tel +44 (0)845 299 6212 Fax +44 (0)1285 700 322 E-Mail info@frontierstrvl.co.uk www.frontierstrvl.co.uk