FRV Bali 13.1 Jun-Aug 2016 by FRV Bali

FASHION RESTAURANTS & VILL AS - BALI & SOUTHEAST ASIA ST YLE

Rp. 60.000

N O 13.1 JUNE - AUG 2016

S Y LV E R E TA N G U Y BAMBOO

ROOMS

TRAV E L

FA S H IO N

Raffles

Cape Town

Batu Belig

Bali CafÃ©s

Four Seasons

East Bali

Bali Brunch

Seri Resort Gili Meno

Ayung River

Sofitel Nusa Dua Frangipani

DINING

Bangkok Dining

34 2

4 Bali 6 l FRV

EDITION 13.1 JUN - AUG

Contents. 22

S U NDAY BRU NC H A selection of Bali's best venues

PAOLO D OL D I The new Senor at the helm at El Kabron

THE COOL CAF ES A fine selection for breakfast, lunch and dinner

BANGKOK P RESTI GE High-end happenings in the city's food scene

LYON

Two Jakarta chefs making a difference

D I ANA ROSA

The local singing sensation spreads the word

S OF I TE L NU SA D UA

Two days of extreme comfort by the beach

THE I S L AND OF LOVE A visit to Seri Resort on Gili Meno

STI G & HAY D E N Two men changing lives for the less fortunate

RAF F L ES JAKARTA A look inside what luxury is made from

72 6

FOU R S E AS ONS JAKARTA A chat with the new GM of the new hotel

NU SA D UA FAS HI ON Looking good at the Sofitel in Bali

F RANGI PANI

Fashionable shirts for men

FAS HI ON BI TS

Young designers on the move

BATU BE L I G BARU

What's new on the fashionable strip

118

PUL I H The brooding art of a genius

BAMBOO GOD D ES S Fashion, flair and a bounty of fine attire

G R E AT BI G S HARKS

108

Cage diving in South Africa

A GU NG AL I L A

110

Getting out of town and up the east coast

BA CK ROADS U BU D

114

Trekking the Ayung River's secrets

A W E E K I N T H E CA PE Uncovering Cape Town

102

B ITS & P IE C ES

METIS SOCIAL

ST REGIS S OC IAL

G ADO G A D O

W INE

SALT

B OROB U DUR S PA

G E C KO I N T E R N E T

122

L AST WO R D

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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Pe tite nge t 12A, Ke rob oka n, B a li, I nd one sia Te l. +62 361 847 5457 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 ema il: info@frvb a li.c om www.frvb a li.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphi cs C o o rdi nato r Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvb a li.c om) P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e , Dwi i nfo@frvb a li.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, Ba gus Oka Mark eti ng Oc hy (oc hy@frvb a li.c om | sa le s@frvb a li.c om) A dmi ni strati o n T he re sia , Poojie , Swa n Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Ve ronika K, He rma n Von Be r nha rd i Agua yo, Morin I wa shita , Nic k Wa lton, Ve Ha nd ojo. S ubscri pti o n Ye a rly sub sc rip tion a va ila b le in I nd one sia - R up ia h 270,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvb a li.c om Se nd e - ma il to the a b ove for d e ta ils. Co nsul ti ng Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvb a li.c om)

Fashi o n Restaurants and Vi l l as Bal i mag azi ne i s an i ndependent, q uarterl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne Aug 15, 2016

FRVBali

FR V Ba li m a ga zin e is pr in te d u n de r lic e n se d tr a de m a r k . N o pa r t of th is m a ga zin e sh o u l d b e re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A ll r igh ts re se r ve d. A r tic le s re f le c t th e opin ion s of th e a u th or s, a n d n ot n e c e ssa r ily t h o s e of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Ba li m a ga zin e is distr ibu te d by; P T K u bu Du a M e dia , P e r iplu s Ja va Book s a n d P T I n doprom . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .

FR V B ali Magaz ine

E dit ion 13. 1

J un - A ug â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; 1 6

E D I TOR’S NOT E FRV Bali – IT TAKES YOU PLACES

The world around us is changing at a very rapid pace. But somehow we manage to continue bringing you the best of what Bali and the rest of Southeast Asia and beyond has to offer on the pages of this magazine. We would like to thank all the readers and businesses that give us support in order for us to achieve this. The world is definitely changing. It’s getting easier to do everything; from writing a letter, driving a car, taking a photo, having an opinion, making music, falling in love, and just about every creative endeavour is just a click away. However at the same time, our lives seem to be becoming more and more complicated. For example, only a few short years ago, only a handful of people

with degrees in graphic design or photography, or incredibly talented souls, could snap a photo that could be seen by millions of people around the world. The process took years of study, work and experience just to have a chance to fulfill that dream or passion. Now though, it’s as simple as grabbing your phone and posting an image on social media to be seen and applauded around the planet, or your own small pond, as an artistic genius or pompous celebrity. On one side the potential that is born from the digital age is exciting and full of hope, on the other it’s more than a little scary. As the entire media and communications sector becomes more complex we have to dream up

new ways and new models to survive in this challenging world, and thankfully through a lot of effort from the team here we can still produce this publication. And we hope you still enjoy picking it up and reading it. This edition has more outstanding prose and photographs from around the region as our intrepid writers get out there and do their thing once more. We trust you will enjoy this edition of FRV Bali. If you would like to send in some comments or encouraging words (Lol) please do it via editor@ frvbali.com – we’d love to hear from you, and so much more than just an Instagram post.

F RV C O N T R I B U TO R S DAVID TRAUTS This English correspondent founded The Beat magazine and then the group’s flagship, FRV. He always enjoys new experiences and the freedom of the getaway – sometimes far, sometimes close, but always fun. Good food, good wine, good people and times are the essence of an enjoyable life—you don’t need many or much, it’s the quality that counts.

ERZA S.T. Erza ST writes for many Indonesian publications and is a regular bon-vivant in his home town of Jakarta. He has been the head honcho of the Indonesian Opera Society for many years and can be caught at many of the classical concerts around the country. He loves winter in European countries as much as he loves good food and conversation in the best restaurants in Jakarta.

THOMAS JONES Travel writing is an admirable and important profession that takes a lot of dedication, hard work and a smidgen of luck to make it pay. Yet despite the hardships, Thomas sees it as a calling to take the opportunities that arise and share the lessons learned with the FRV community. This issue it’s off to South Africa for a look around Cape Town and a deep sea encounter with some formidable great white sharks.

SALVADOR B New Yorker, U.S.A., moved to Bali in nineteen eighty three, painter, writer, musician and song writer. Through the years he has been noted as a true renaissance man in that perspective. As a writer he has contributed many an articles on the life styles of Bali as well as interviews, openings, fashion and food reviews.

NICK WALTON Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.

VERONIKA K Veronika is not only a journalist, but also a professional mermaid and a travel junkie. Praguebased, she has been living life in flip-flops since 2008. If not on her laptop forging words, she can be found playing in the ocean or practicing her headstands. Vero’s hobbies are breakfast, lunch & dinner and writing about herself in the third person.

Bits & Pieces AL DIWAN OPENS IN PETITENGET Lebanese food is one of the world’s most ancient cuisines and there is an age-old tradition of warm hospitality that exists in Lebanese culture. As the owner of new restaurant Al Diwan says, “In the Arabic world eating is not just to satiate your hunger – it is rather an essential social moment of delicious appetizers, rich appealing tastes and enticing colours! It is healthy, enjoyable and a connecting element which brings people together.” Al Diwan on Jalan Petitenget does offers all of that and more. The restaurant, which

opened just last month, is upstairs, above Arturro’s fashion boutique on the busy Seminyak road, and accessed by elevator or stairs. The food is excellent with Lebanese Chef Hassan in charge of the kitchen. The décor is opulent, stylish and welcoming. It’s a modern and chic design with plenty of comfortable seating and chilling AC. The dishes are authentic Lebanese that titillate the palate and are ideal to be shared with family and friends. From the moment you enter Al Diwan you take a journey which will ignite your taste, sight and senses.

JARI MENARI – THE ULTIMATE MASSAGE EXPERIENCE IN BALI

With the slightest hyperbole – it appears Bali has more spas than it has people. The plethora of salons varies both in price and quality, making it really difficult to navigate the island’s “spa jungle”!

Over the years of testing the spas relentlessly first-hand, we have accumulated many ups and downs in the spa world. As a life time massage enthusiast we then feel super safe to say that discovering Jari

Menari turned us into lifetime fans. Once you experience a therapy at this unique place for massage connoisseurs, you will always come back. Jari Menari translates into “dancing fingers” and it couldn’t be a more spot-on description. Their specialty is the internationally recognized method, that combines slow, long strokes, rocking, stretching and palm pressure. This “rock star” massage not only tends to every area of your body that needs to be rubbed and rolled, but it is all performed in such a special way, we wouldn’t find it too far fetched to call it the “art of massage”. A unique dance of rhythm, flow and connection

creates an unforgettable relaxing massage experience. Their professionally-trained, all-male therapists have skills that you won’t find in any other spa establishments in Bali. Jari Menari’s newly renovated parlour has its home on Jl. Basangkasa, Seminyak. The individual suites all face perfectly manicured gardens and you’ll enjoy the sound of rushing water through an ingeniously designed system of interconnected canals. The sound is not only soothing, but it complements the massage perfectly. JM pride themselves on delivering consistent quality to their loyal customers. It’s a complete bliss out, 100% guaranteed.

Bits & Pieces BATIK RESTAURANT AND EXHIBITION OPENS ON EATS STREET

W RETREAT BALI PRESENTS THEIR NEW W SOUND SUITE

W Retreat Bali recently opened its new sound recording studio called the W Sound Suite in the resort. This private music studio and writer’s room is the place

for professional recording artists, studio musicians and producers, in addition to hotel guests, to record in style while on the road. Additional studios in music

Batik Restaurant Bar has just opened on Oberoi Road, better known as Eats Street, and is a casual but fine eatery specializing in Vietnamese, Thai and Indonesian cuisines. Its beautiful and welcoming façade and outdoor lounge area that faces straight to the street is just the beginning of the magic of this two-storey building. It is one of the most stunning and casual meeting points along this popular strip Enjoy the delicious cocktails at the different bars inside and savour the tastes of all the delicate and refined Southeast

Asian dishes prepared by their excellent team in the kitchen. And finally, get involved and learn all about the restaurant’s namesake, batik. Discover the amazing history, craft and art involved in the famed Indonesian fabric and its heritage with their special display, before or after enjoying your meal. The delightful, chic and relaxing atmosphere of Batik restaurant has definitely set a new level of sophistication on Eats Street and is welcomed addition to what is on offer in Seminyak and the Bali dining scene.

meccas around the world will be unveiled later this year at W Hollywood, W Barcelona and W Seattle, with more to come. W Sound Suites are in part the brainchild of the W brand’s North American Music Director, DJ White Shadow, the Chicago-based producer best known for his work with Lady Gaga. He has been working with W to identify the best sound equipment and studio layout to ensure the suites are optimal for professional use.

Moog, as well as a private vocal booth overlooking a tropical garden. W Bali will be working with visiting artists called ‘Sounding Off With…’ and plans to bring together unique musical talent from around the world to produce exclusive mixes, premiere new tracks and deliver intimate instudio performances. W hotel guests can get in on the action by booking the W Sound Suite, which includes a private master class lead by W Bali’s Music Curator Damian Saint. For the latest sounds to come out of W Sound Suites or to book your session, visit WRetreatBali.com/ WSoundSuite.

The first W Sound Suite at W Bali offers a stylishly sound-proof space featuring a lounge big enough for a proper entourage. The main mixing room includes professional equipment from industry favourites Native Instruments, Pioneer and

FRV SOCIAL

FRV Bali Social. FRV Bali celebrated the beginning of the spring tourist season with a gathering at METIS in Petitenget, Bali, lateApril. With kind assistance from the restaurant, some sumptuous canapes and cocktails, made

with help from Belvedere and Chandon, started proceedings for invited guests, including owners and management from many fine establishments around town.

FRV SOCIAL

St. Regis Exceptional Champagne Journey. The St. Regis Bali Resort and LVMH hosted a delighful six-course, champagne-paired dinner at Kayuputi restaurant in May with The St. Regis Bali sommelier, Harald Wiesmann, and Bali brand ambassador of

LVMH, Alistair Toyne, who together introduced guests to an impressive array of champagnes, including La Grande Dame, Ruinart, Krug, Dom Pérignon and Dom Pérignon Rosé. The dinner was begun with the

traditional popping of the first corks by Weismann with his ceremonial cavalry sword which then lead onto the exquisite dining created by executive chef Agung Gede.

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FO OD, DINING, CHEFS, CUISINE

FOOD BALI

Bali Brunch.

Sofitel weekend chic.

After so much success with their Sunday brunch in the past year or so, Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort, has added a day, revamped some of the dishes and stations on offer and called the weekly gastronomic affair, The Weekend Chic Brunch. The poolside Cut Catch Cucina (CCC) restaurant has again outdone itself bringing brunch to an even higher level than before. Available every Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 3pm, and from IDR 499,000++ per person, and free for kids under 12 years of age, the brunch treats you to an array of delicious morsels, together with free pool access over the course of the brunch. The food selections include cold cuts from the charcuteries,

perfectly cooked and delicious roasts and grills of steak, lamb, chicken, sausage, and fresh fish. On other cooking stations there’s also an array of pasta choices, pizzas and seafood. It is a veritable smorgasbord of choice. A highlight would have to be the succulent oysters and grilled lobster, and remember to leave room for the dessert selection – it really is to die for. Also watch out for the iconic gueridons (or trollies), now featuring additions of shawarma kebabs, where they also make right next to your table tuna tartare, crepes and the sweetest of desserts. The new ‘chic’ aspect of the Saturday and Sunday brunch buffets can be found in the fashionable food displays, and

stylish waiting staff dressed in their brand new uniforms, who will take your optional a la carte orders, another highlight of the new brunch, and serve you like royalty. Fashion shows are also a regular feature at The Chic Weekend Brunch and an MC and a live acoustic band playing your favourite top 40 tunes help set the pace for an enjoyable day out with the whole family or a fine bunch of friends. And don’t forget, you can laze by the enormous Sofitel Nusa Dua swimming pool for the rest of the afternoon to make a whole day of it. Does a Sunday sfternoon get any better than that? Contact: +62 (0)361 849 2888, or email: H9078@sofitel.com

FOOD BALI

Grazing at Alila Seminyak.

They refer to the Sunday Brunch as Sunday Grazing at Alila Seminyak, and with good reason. While the usual brunch is a smorgasbord of a variety of dishes displayed in a buffet style spread, the Sunday Graze is an a la carte menu and selection of tapa-sized, small plate dishes that are cooked a la minute, well, as much as possible, to create a fresher and more sustainable (or less waste) brunch. To kick things off, I discovered straight away that they have the most scrumptious, made to order eggs Benedict you could ever imagine. A choice of three tastes; smoked salmon, suckling pork and chicken are hand made by a team of experts that appear to be specially trained in the halls of Benedict – wherever that may be. To tell you the truth, I think

they should just sell those eggs as the main event every day of the week, but let’s not stop there, there is more. We took our seats at a table next to the window with one of the ultimate views imaginable over Seminyak beach. It’s a stunning view all the way down the coast to Uluwatu. Taking it all in, and with the sanguine tones of the live music specialist, and so well known in these parts, guitarist and singer Athron, we began to examine the grazing menu. There’s a little bit of everything and for everyone. Soups, Asian and Western dishes, seafood, cold meats, pork and beef ribs, dimsum are all there and plenty to choose from. There is also a touch of the buffet as bakery items and a full dessert selection is lined up on tables on one side.

Juices and tea come included in the starting price of Rp465k ++ with other packages including alcohol also available. At the end of the feasting I asked the waitress if it was acceptable behaviour to lie down on a daybed near the pool to relax the afternoon away. That was no problem she answered and we wound up near the outside sunset bar dipping our toes in the crystal clean swimming pool. The sunset entertainment began, with more live music, this time a fun duo, and as we soaked up the last rays of the Sunday sun a rather splendid afternoon at Alila Seminyak came to an end. www.alilahotels.com/seminyak

Putting on the Ritz.

The Ritz-Carlton, Bali is a latecomer in Bali’s growing swell of brunches, but as Katie Truman discovers, their Sunday Brunch is a welcome, if not more refined addition. If you’re heading to The RitzCarlton, Bali for their new Sunday Feast - Brunch by The Beach, set alongside Nusa Dua’s secluded Sawangan sands and on yet another tropical sunny day, it’s pretty much guaranteed you’ll have a very good Sunday. Especially, as those nice “Ladies and Gentlemen of The RitzCarlton” allow brunch-goers complimentary access to the resort’s beachfront pool, Spa’s Hydro-Vital Pool and Ritz Kids facilities for any children– making a real (and very good value) day of it. Brunches have been gaining momentum in Bali, especially in the 5-Stars, with several decent varieties to choose from; Sunday Feast - Brunch by The Beach, debuting at The Beach Grill in March, may be a latecomer, but nevertheless a welcome addition – its name succinctly says it all.

Compared to other Bali brunches, this is a far more genteel, simplified affair; don’t expect a devour-as-much-asyou-can, heaving buffet and live cooking stations. Rather, Sunday Feast - Brunch by The Beach (11.30am to 3.30pm; IDR 528,000++) is a refined sit-down affair at beachfront The Beach Grill, with a semi a la carte concept whereby everything is brought to your table (without you having to move a muscle), at either al fresco shaded tables, or in the semi-open, breezy restaurant. The Beach Grills’ gorgeous oceanic setting is subtly enhanced with live acoustic music throughout the proceedings. The menu comes split into three sections: free-flow Starter (for me, the most mouth-watering section) brings on small plates tapas-style of numerous globally-inspired dishes for sharing and grazing, anything from Pomelo Salad with king crab and prawns to Chilled Cucumber and Mint soup. For the more sedate Main, choose just one surprisingly simple but delicious Surf or Turf option, succulent Seafood Platter, or finely grilled Salmon, Strip loin,

Mixed Satay and more, with choice of sides, while similar to Starter, Sweet Temptation presents a divine spread of small-plate, house-made desserts – Lemon Grass Crème Brûlée and Raspberry White Chocolate Bavaroise are sublime notables. Additional Beverage Packages (from IDR 188,000++) depend on your mindset: there’s no alcohol with Fit & Fresh, just healthy alternatives, Mix & Build is inclusive of freeflow cocktails, beers and more, while aptly-named, Lux, blows-out with finest Champagnes, house wines and sangrias. Unlike some other brunch buffet offerings, where pure greed takes over and you end-up disgracefully bloated, this gourmet Sunday Brunch leaves you nicely satisfied without stuffing yourself silly – and if swimming in the pool afterwards, you won’t sink like a stone. Yes, a very good Sunday. The Ritz-Carlton, Bali, Jalan Raya Nusa Dua, Selaton Lot III, Sawangan, Nusa Dua, Bali 80363, tel: (+62) 361 849 8988; www.ritzcarlton.com/bali FRV