FASHION RESTAURANTS & VILL AS - BALI & SOUTHEAST ASIA ST YLE
Rp. 60.000
N O 14.3 DEC 2017 - FEB 2018
A MOODY MO U N T AGUNG
ROOMS
TRAVEL
FASHION
D INING
Murni's Houses
Penang
Bohemian Jungle
Som Chai
Villas Under $400
Melbourne
Minimal at Best
Salazon
Leading Lady
Mentawai
Made in Bali
Buzz in Bukit
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EDITION 14.3 DECEMBER ‘17 - FEBRUARY ‘18
Contents. 18
SOM C H A I New to Seminyak with a familiar, tasty pedigree
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SA L A ZON Hearty dining for true meat lovers
24 YO U N G G U N A R I W IDYA N TO
NE W BUZ Z IN T H E BU K IT Some of Bali’s best white beaches, resorts, dining & beachclubs
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This young chef is heading places
S P E C IA LTY FO O DS
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This edition we check the local notorious fruit, durian
V IL L AS U N D E R 4 0 0 B U C KS
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Looking for stylish accommodation without breaking the bank?
A TRIP TO CAMPUHAN And open the doors to Murni’s Houses
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UBUD’S LEADING LADY FRV discovers more about Ibu Murni
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T H E MA NY FA C ES OF BA L I A RT Ketut ‘Nik’ Budiantara
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BOH E MIA N IN T H E J U NG L E Photography by Piers Vernon-Kell
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M A D E IN BA LI
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Design and production on the island
M IN IM A L AT B EST
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White on brown. Piers Vernon-Kell
L ITTL E S L IC E O F PA RAD ISE Luxury on the Mentawai Islands
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68 T H E C ULT U RA L CA PITA L OF MA L AYSIA Georgetown has much to offer the culture vulture
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ST RA IG H T , NO C H ASE R
Melbourne’s vibrant jazz scene is alive and well
A P IO N E E R V ES S E L
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Join Muz and the lads back in the day
M AG I CA L N O RTHE R N THA IL A N D
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The lush green mountainous north is awaiting your visit
DA RTM O O R R E V ISIT E D Join Rachel Love on a journey home
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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Pe tite nge t 12A, Ke rob oka n, B a li, I nd one sia Te l. +62 361 847 5457 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 ema il: e d itor@frvb a li.c om www.frvb a li.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphi cs C o o rdi nato r Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvb a li.c om) P ho to g raphy Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Ii n I nd ra p utra , Ma d e , Dwi, Agung i nfo@frvb a li.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Oc hy (oc hy@frvb a li.c om | sa le s@frvb a li.c om) A dmi ni strati o n T he re sia , Poojie , Swa n Co ntri buto rs Da vid Tra uts, Ve ronika K, He rma n von B e r na d i, R a c he l Love . S ubscri pti o n Ye a rly sub sc rip tion a va ila b le in I nd one sia - R up ia h 199,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvb a li.c om Se nd e - ma il to the a b ove for d e ta ils. Co nsul ti ng Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvb a li.c om)
Fashi o n Restaurants and Vi l l as Bal i mag azi ne i s an i ndependent, q uarterl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne F ebruary 15, 2018
FRVBali FR V Ba li m a ga zin e is pr in te d u n de r lic e n se d tr a de m a r k . N o pa r t of th is m a ga zin e sh o u l d b e re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A ll r igh ts re se r ve d. A r tic le s re f le c t th e opin ion s of th e a u th or s, a n d n ot n e c e ssa r ily t h o s e of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Ba li m a ga zin e is distr ibu te d by; P T K u bu Du a M e dia , P e r iplu s Ja va Book s a n d P T I n doprom . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
FR V B ali Magaz ine
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E dit ion 14. 3
D ecember ‘ 17 - February ‘ 1 8
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E D I TOR’S NOT E FRV Bali – IT TAKES YOU PLACES
It has been a while since Bali was the centre of world media attention. Bombs, riots, economic crises, disasters, even wars have brought the island’s tourism to its knees on numerous occasions over the past couple of decades but there hasn’t been an event the size of Mount Agung for quite some time. If you were following the news from afar you would probably think that the people here on Bali were facing much danger but the truth is actually far from that. The government with help from many agencies has done well to prepare for this event and most people are either unaffected by the volcano or are now outside the exclusion zone and thus safe. The main problem for tourism is the airport and if volcanic ash enters its airspace and affects air traffic. No one knows how long the volcanic activity will persist and any estimation would be a guess. This is a grave concern for people in a hurry but for those with a little more time on their hands this could possibly be the best time you could ever visit the island.
Less people, less traffic and the chance to see one of the world’s great volvanoes in action. (As long as you stay outside the exclusion zone of course). Nature is an unpredictable beast at times, but also serves up some of the most breathtaking moments you will ever have the chance to experience. This is also a time of renewel, we shouldn’t forget that. We hope this situation passes quickly and that the lives of the people living on this island will get back to normal as soon as possible. Inside this edition, which is a little late coming out because of Mount Agung eruption, our writers are off around the island, country, region and world again to bring you the latest of what is happening out there in food, fashion, accommodation and many other topics. Two new restaurants in Seminyak are covered and dissected by our chief food critic David Trauts, Vero is on The Bukit discovering what’s new there, while we
have a young, talented photographer by the name of Piers Vernon-Kell supplying two very classy fashion shoots. There are also plenty of travel stories inside which we know you always love. Check online for all the details of what is happening in the finer venues around Bali for the Christmas and New Year’s period. Everyone loves being online so you will find that info over there. Meanwhile, enjoy the stories and glossy photos of this edition of FRV Bali, because after all that’s what it is all about. Glossy and able to touch. If you have any comments or would like any more editions of FRV please let us know and direct your messages to editor@frvbali.com Cover photo: A Blue Mount Agung www.jonathaninbali.com Jonathan Copeland is a travel writer and photographer.
F RV C O N T R I B U TO R S
DAVID TRAUTS This English correspondent founded The Beat magazine and then the group’s flagship, FRV. He always enjoys new experiences and the freedom of the getaway – sometimes far, sometimes close, but always fun. Good food, good wine, good people and times are the essence of an enjoyable life—you don’t need many or much, it’s the quality that counts.
VERONIKA K Veronika is not only a journalist, but also a professional mermaid and a travel junkie. Praguebased, she has been living life in flip-flops since 2008. If not on her laptop forging words, she can be found playing in the ocean or practicing her headstands. Vero’s hobbies are breakfast, lunch & dinner and writing about herself in the third person.
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RACHEL LOVE Told by a fortune teller that her life would take a dramatic change in a move to the East, she arrived in Bali with a few hundred pounds and a vision to fulfill a lifelong dream of being a writer on a tropical island. FRV’s resident arts writer, Rachel writes extensively on all things lifestyle and travel related.
NICK WALTON Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.
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Bits & Pieces WHAT’S NEW AT EL KABRON The new look El Kabron is taking shape and they are ready to open the first stage of their new renovations this December—perfect for the coming festive season. The new alfresco restaurant and champagne cliff top bar will have seating outside for 55 to 70 people and right next to the cliff. This sounds like the perfect place to see those glorious Uluwatu sunsets. A long 10 meter double bar area with an extended roof over it from the existing restaurant will be overlooking the whole venue and the new second
pool, which will be completed before May 2018. The new cliff club bar terraces will be multi-leveled with sofas, tables and lounges, and will fit an extra 150/200 people. Last but not least, all these new extensions will have free access for everyone to enjoy the best sunsets on the island. El Kabron just keeps on going from strength to strength and continues to be the only place in the Uluwatu area where guests can get unobstructed and luxurious views of one of Bali’s best sunsets.
RADISSON BLU OPENS SOON IN ULUWATU Indonesia’s first Radisson Blu resort, Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu, on the southwestern tip of the Island, is set to open in January 2018, and the brand’s 100% Satisfaction Guarantee is evident in every part of the resort’s character. The resort is just a 40-minute drive from Bali Ngurah Rai International Airport and has Bali’s best surfing beaches right on the resort’s doorstep, and Bali Collection in Nusa Dua, Uluwatu Temple and a stateof-the-art 18-hole golf course nearby, making Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu an ideal base for the surfer, golfer, cultural explorer or serenity seeker. Guest accommodation comprises 111 deluxe rooms in three categories, featuring
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private balconies on upper floors and private sundecks on lower floors, and 14 suites with stunning rooftop terraces giving guests views of the ocean, the pool or both. Artichoke restaurant will provide guests with incredible food bursting with local and global flavors. And Radisson Blu’s signature restaurant concept, Filini will make its Asia Pacific debut at the resort. This authentic Italian eatery offers Mediterranean flavours in an informal setting. Three more distinctly different bars complete the F&B offerings. A spa, a large swimming pool and a world-class fitness center ensures that wellness and fitness will go hand-in-hand with relaxation.
General Manager BjörnHenning Buth explains, “The incredible architecture is a true celebration of native craftsmanship. Tenganan Village is the reference for building methods and materials. The layout of guest rooms and social spaces also
follows that of traditional Balinese homes, and the interior designers have taken their inspiration from the ornate patterning of Bali’s Lontar manuscripts”.
Bits & Pieces OMNIA BALI IS READY TO ROLL
OMNIA Dayclub will be opening in December on a stunning clifftop location in Uluwatu at the southwestern tip of the Bukit Peninsula, Bali. This luxurious venue, which is brought to the island by the world-famous Hakkasan Group, and comprises OMNIA Dayclub and Japanese restaurant, Sake no Hana. The design is a collaboration between WOHA, a Singapore-based architectural practice renowned for their integration of environmental and social principles, and Rockwell Group, an interdisciplinary design firm based in New York who have created extraordinary spaces and experiences the world over. The dayclub and restaurant have been meticulously planned to maximise the panoramic views of the Indian Ocean that can be enjoyed from this 80-meter plateau. While opening during December, New Year’s Day is really going to be the main event. Day One so to speak! So what is Omnia all about? Omnia has achieved phenomenal success as the most premium, star-studded clubbing experience in Las Vegas. Calvin Harris on the decks every Friday night certainly doesn’t hurt, and when
you see their famed chandelier drop in the middle of a dancefloor filled with thousands of partygoers at midnight, well, it’s nothing less than incredible! That said, this is the world’s first Omnia dayclub - which brings a fun, anything-ispossible ethos of the Vegas brand with it, but whilst offering something totally new - a premium, high-end and decadent beach club experience in one of the most spectacular clifftop locations in the world, right here on the magical island of Bali. One of London’s darlings of upscale Japanese cuisine, Sake no Hana is noted for its meticulous attention to detail and their focus on the perfection of ingredients; everything plucked, picked, harvested and served just at the right time. Omnia will feature an infinity edge pool looking over some of the best surfing waves in the world, exclusive cabanas with private plunge pools and bottle service for groups, a swim-up bar for the ultimate hands-in-the-air pool party moments, anchored by a private bar lit up with a towering cube of light at sunset. Be prepared for the best at Omnia Bali.
Bits & Pieces THE AYANA IS SPREADING ITS WINGS TO A PRISTINE, WHITE-SAND WAECICU BEACH Already famed in Bali and Jakarta for world-class hospitality, exceptional hotel design, superior cuisine and unparalleled service standards, AYANA is set to launch the first and only five-star resort on the exquisite Labuan Bajo, Waecicu Beach in summer 2018. The 12 suites and 189 premium guest rooms are inspired by light, comfort and open living, with each contemporary room featuring a flawless ocean view with large windows to capture the golden glows of tropical sunsets setting behind the distinctive Kukusan Island. The unconventional design will allow guests to check-in from the 11th floor lobby, and access their room by descending towards the sandy shores. The resort will also feature a rooftop wedding and function suite accommodating around 200 guests, with a splendid ocean view terrace. Restaurants and bars will include an all-day dining venue serving relaxed Asian cuisine and International food, a rooftop bar serving sunset light bites, Kisik seafood barbeque restaurant and HonZEN Japanese restaurant. Alongside a private white sand beach, there will be two main swimming pools and one children’s pool. The Resort Spa will offer a selection of signature treatments across four single treatment rooms and one double. There will also be a gym and kid’s club. In keeping with AYANA tradition, the service will be superlative. Local and Balinese hospitality will be intertwined to offer standards like no other on the Island. “Our team is the secret to our success,” explains Clive Edwards, General Manager of AYANA Resort and Spa, BALI, The Villas at AYANA Resort, BALI and RIMBA Jimbaran BALI by AYANA. “It is with enthusiasm
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and pride that I can confidently say we are one of the most successful and sought after hotels on the island of Bali. Of course, our range of products and services is inspired by the purpose of fulfilling guest needs, but I also believe that it is the care and service from our team members that takes AYANA hospitality the extra mile. Our passion for people, and our philosophy for understanding our guests, will be injected into this latest property, AYANA Komodo Resort, Waecicu Beach. We are excited about introducing the newest member of our resort family to the community, and look forward to launching the first premium 5-star resort in Flores.” In addition to the new resort, and in making full use of the extensive private pier, AYANA Komodo Resort, Waecicu Beach will also be launching a 54 meter long and 11 meter wide, 9-bedroom phinisi ship. The luxurious ship will take guests, either by full charter or bookable by bedroom, around the island for short explorations of approximately 2 or 3-nights per trip. The ship will also make a distinguished wedding venue. Named AYANA Lako di’a, meaning “Safe Journey” in the local vernacular, it will be of the finest design with lounge and dive decks to suit the mood. Guests can island hop or participate in world-famous aqua activities including diving, snorkeling and trawling via AYANA Lako di’a, or join a daytrip on the Hotel’s catamaran or power boat. For more information, please visit ayanakomodo.com
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arturroeggo @arturrofashion W BALI SEMINYAK WWW.ARTURROFASHION.COM 16
Section.
Restaurants
at your dream destination.
All good food
FO OD, DINING, CHEFS, CUISINE
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NEW BALI DINING
Som Chai. Location:
Written by:
SEMINYAK - BALI
DAVID TRAUTS
Som Chai opened last month on Jalan Kerobokan, Seminyak and you would have to say the Sarong Group, who brought Bali the award winning and downright fabulous Asian cuisine inspired Sarong, Mamasan, Hujan Locale and Tiger Palm restaurants, have done it again.
Som Chai is another stylish and authentic Southeast Asian restaurant and notch in the belt for the Sarong group, this time concentrating on delicious Thai cuisine and an abundance of Thai style. You would think that Will Meyrick, after so much experience already in Thai food, travelling the country extensively and cooking some of the finest Thai in his many restaurants, would have enough fire power in his little black book of recipes to open another restaurant without too much effort, but no, as we all know, the man is possessed and once more was out on the mostly unridden trails of Thailand
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searching for new dishes for this new project. He did a trip for almost two months with his perennial offsider and sous chef Palm Amatawet and new Som Chai head chef, Wayan Suprapta. They travelled throughout Thailand before sitting down to develop the menu and according Meyrick the menu is influenced by the era of the first Kings of Siam. We arrive early, around 7pm and walk through the heavy wooden front doors and are greeted by the young lady at reception who takes us straight through to the main dining area. We pass a corridor-like
Crispy soft shell crab som tam with green apple.
The main dining area and lanterns of Som Chai.
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lounge area draped in silk and chiffon curtains, with swings, as in the kids swings hanging limply waiting for someone to take the required position. The main dining area is enormous, with what could be called Bali’s largest vaulted roof. Large, Thai-style metal lanterns hang from the ceiling, while rattan patterned panels divide the dining sections. Comfy chairs and sofas surround multiple solid tables and a full-wall, vertical garden on one side definitely brings an organic touch to the elegance, and the large container look bar tops off a very inviting and interesting look and atmosphere. The dÊcor is reminiscent in many ways of the Kempinski Bangkok’s fine dining restaurant, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. Dining at Som Chai starts with great service. The attentive staff
Crispy barramundi with pineapple holy basil lime leaf.
Spacious dining area with rattan patterned dividers.
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are obviously trained to a T and show great poise and style, knowledgeable of each dish and helpful with selection. The dishes could be complex for the novice Thai diner so this does help. A nice touch was one of the waiters first coming around with the house wines on a trolley for us to taste while checking the extensive menu. This makes the selecting of wine a breeze.
Sample plate of Chef ’s selection dessert.
Since we were on a night out, we first ordered signature cocktails Barrel Aged Manhatten (Rp 135k) and Drunken Monk (Rp 120k) for the lady. While sipping on those delightful, infused kickstarters we order a number of entrees. The extensive menu consists of entrees, salads, mains, curries, stir-fries and noodle and rice dishes – just what you would imagine on any fine Thai menu. The four entrees start with the signature Will Meyrick starter, betel leaf topped with coffee wood smoked mackerel and Jeow Bong relish (Rp 45k), crispy shell crab som tam with green apple (Rp 120k) substituting the typical green papaya with green apple for a new sensation, and two specially prepared entrees by the chef, Stir Fried Pumpkin (Rp 70k) and a Pork Rib Soup (Rp 120k). The flavours of the fresh local produce and Thai spices burst from the plate and onto the palate. The waiters also asked, as we ordered, if we liked our food spicy or not, which is something to keep in mind as some of the dishes are rather spicy. For the mains we moved straight to the crispy barramundi with pineapple holy basil lime leaf and three flavors sauce (Rp 195k). The whole grilled fish had a sweet and tangy sauce and was
The swings are ready in Som Chai Lounge.
perfectly tender and juicy. The other main was a grilled “Aeb pla” of barramundi marinated in chili turmeric kaffir lime leaf wrapped in banana leaf served with nam pla prik (a hot Thai sauce) and sticky rice (Rp 170k). “Aeb pla” means wrapped in banana leaf in Thai. We finished off with a delicious selection of the Som Chai dessert favourites, which is aptly called the Chef ’s Dessert Selection (Rp150k). After all that food we were lucky to be able to move at all, but after finishing dinner we did manage
to move to the front bar area for a couple of drinks and to see what exactly happened with those swings. By this time, and I believe it’s Thursday to Saturday nights only, the Som Chai Lounge area turns into what appears to be a dark, smoky den of iniquity that they say harks back to the old hedonistic days of Bangkok’s Chinatown. It also leans to the risque of modern clubs in the bustling and cosmopolitan new Bangkok like Maggie Choo and Sing Sing. We enjoyed another drink while the boudoir attired
girls swung languidly on their swings nearby. It’s an all-round fun and a sensorial experience at Som Chai and a perfect addition to Seminyak’s dining scene. The food is as delicious as you would always expect from Will Meyrick and the Sarong Group and for the service, style and excellence in cuisine, it is definitely excellent value for money. It ticks all the boxes. FRV
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