Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2015
AT EASE ESSENTIAL SPRING STYLE TAKE OUR MODERN FIT TEST FASHION Q&A
CONTENTS Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
FEATURES 48 Noteworthy: Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna, Peter Millar, Samuelsohn 39 Would You Pass the Modern Fit Test? 52 Culture: Through the Met’s Looking Glass
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX
FASHION
Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA
15 Spring Fever 54 Spring Essentials
Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT
DEPARTMENTS 4 8 40 42 44 62 64 66 68
Welcome Letter Happenings Ask Jim Ask Susan The Fashion Forum Food: Quinoa Craze Spirits: Bottle Art At Your Service End Page: The Rules of Style
Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY
Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-8528175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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welcome
FOCUSED ON THE FUTURE We are so excited about 2015! As you know, we recently remodeled Rodes For Him with an awesome Zegna Shop and an Eton Shirt Shop. Now, it’s the ladies’ turn for a makeover. Come in and see what we’ve done! We have completely updated Rodes For Her to reflect your needs, make your experience warm and friendly, and make you feel at home. Another reason we remodeled was to create a great space for Blink Boutique. As one of the elite contemporary boutiques in the country, Blink has spent the past 11 years developing an incredible eye for current fashion. Blink’s lines, which include Vince, Shoshanna and Joie, reflect the perfect blend of modern trends to complement the sophisticated style that has been Rodes’ trademark for so many years. Joining the Rodes family are two familiar faces from Blink: Cara King and Jillian Clark. We are so excited to welcome them to their new home! As we embark on our second century of serving you, know that we work every day to deliver the best shopping experience in the region. Come on in and meet our newest “family members” in our new home. We owe it all to you! See you around town, Susan & Howard Vogt
P E R F O R M A N C E
C O L L E C T I O N
S O F T
happenings
PARTY ON!
Our friends and fashionistas celebrate the seasons in style. Rodes loves to be part of the team that dresses you up for that special event! Go to rodes.com to see what’s in store for you now!
L A FAY E T T E 14 8 N Y.C O M
LADIES’ FASHION RETREAT!
Fun and Fashionable ladies from the Indiana Chapter of YPO & WPO visited Rodes on April 15th. The ladies wined and dined while shopping for their perfect spring/Derby outfits. Christine Moore also made their day special with her one-of-a-kind hats. We would love to host your next fashion event as well!
HOLIDAY CHEER! Rodes hosted our annual Personal Shopping Day on December 6th, a celebration of our friends and loyal customers. The “real� Santa Claus made it special for kids of all ages! Go to rodes.com to view the hundreds of photos of the event!
CANTARELLI CANT CA TAR REL LLI L
ESCADA E ES SC CA ADA DA
Featuring FFea eaatu ttur uuring ing ng models Chad Pinther and Beth Williams and photography by Andrew A And An ndrew nd rew wK Kung. Makeup and hair by Nick Carter of Joseph’s Salon & Spa. Thank Than Tha Th nk you yyoou ou to Nanz & Kraft Florist and Francis Lee Jasper Oriental Rugs. SSpecial Spe Sp ppeecci cia ial thanks thhaa to The Frazier Historic Museum for our shoot location.
ETRO
ALL HATS BY CHRISTINE A. MOORE
LAFAYETTE 148 NEW YORK
ISAIA
ST. JOHN
ASHLEY PITTMAN
VINCE.
BLACK HALO
DIDIER PARAKIAN
HAMMITT
SHOSHANNA
NOIR
ANGEL SANCHEZ
BUCHANAN & KANG
SCOTT BARBER
ALEXIS BITTAR
YIGAL AZROUﾃ記
BLESSINGS IN DISGUISE JEWELRY
ROBERT TALBOTT
ETIENNE AIGNER
SAMUELSOHN
ETON
PETER MILLAR
VOLT
JOIE
SACHIN & BABI
CANALI
BROCHU WALKER
WOULD YOU PASS THE
MODERN FIT TEST? ANSWER THE QUESTIONS BELOW TO FIND OUT IF YOUR SUIT IS MAKING YOU LOOK OLDER, HEFTIER, OUT OF SHAPE, OR SIMPLY OUT OF DATE.
2.
The width of the shoulders (point to point) should complement your body. If padding is extending the suit shoulders beyond your natural shoulders, then your suit is too old.
1.
3.
Lapels are slimmer, though your personal style will dictate how slim. If you can make the leap, try combining slim lapels and narrower ties for a sharp, stylish look. You’ll be surprised at how this takes years off your perceived age.
Sleeves are trimmer and armholes higher than before. This is how Europeans have been wearing their suits for years, allowing for arm movement so you don’t lift up your entire jacket each time you raise your arms.
4.
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA
5.
Take the button test. If, when you button your two-button suit, the bottom button hits at or below your waistline, it’s definitely time to shop for new clothing. Also, with your arms down, the bottom of your jacket should reach your knuckles, not your fingertips.
Modern dress pants should sit a bit lower on the waist and end higher off the ground than before, so forget the old rules about where pants should break. We like to say that the bottom of the pant should “caress” the top of the shoe. The good news: people can see more of that fabulous footwear you’re now wearing.
P. S.
If you failed this test or have any questions, come in and try on some modern clothing. We guarantee that you’ll see, and appreciate, the difference.
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askJIM
SPRING 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM appearance while protecting both your shoes and your feet. If you’re going for this trendy look, we suggest buying some noshow socks. That said, we prefer the look of a classic or whimsical sock with both dress and casual shoes (and sport socks with athletic shoes). Especially in 2015 when there are so many fashion-forward options in color and pattern, why not make a sock statement? Let your hosiery reflect your personality!
Q:
Q:
I’m so confused about tie widths: how wide should they be for 2015?
It is a bit confusing since there are various widths that are now acceptable, depending on the width of your jacket lapel and the type of shirt collar. One thing is certain, however: acceptable widths have been narrowing for the past several years. We like 8.5 cm (3.35 inches) as a good go-to width for most of today’s suits and sportcoats (the hipster look is decidedly narrower); just a few seasons back it was 9.5 cm (3.75
inches). Visit us for some new neckwear that will keep you up to date!
My staple for spring is a navy blazer: what more do I need?
You’ve got the right idea! A navy blazer can take you virtually anywhere: throw it over a polo shirt for lunch at the golf club or over a dress shirt for a nice dinner out. What more do you need? How about a brighter shade of blue for an upbeat summer alternative, and/or a lightweight cashmere blazer (once again, go blue) for that extra touch of softness and style? While three blue blazers might seem excessive, trust us: you’ll get so many compliments, you just might come back for more.
Q:
I have a formal wedding coming up this summer: I noticed lots of young guys do I need a new tux or can I wear walking around without socks last summer. Aside from the what’s in my closet? If you haven’t purchased a tux in a few hygiene aspect, is this no-sock years, you definitely need a new one. look sartorially acceptable? (Won’t Today’s models are slimmer, lighter weight guys ruin their shoes, not to and more comfortable than the ones you mention their feet?) own and the fabrics are more beautiful.
Q:
It’s definitely a fashion look among trendsetters, so much so, in fact, that we now sell no-show socks that hit below the ankle and give a sockless
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Lapel options are numerous (peak, shawl, traditional) so try on a few to see which is most flattering. Another way to modernize: try navy instead of black.
askSUSAN
Q:
I can never have too many accessories, but I’ve got all the basics covered. What are some of this season’s unique standout pieces?
YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED
It’s always wise to know what goodies you have in your closet, but just as important is adding new accessories to transform your outfits from ordinary to spectacular. This spring offers several bold statements: There’s the western trend, as seen in beaded necklaces and fringed handbags. The swing and sway of the fringe in soft hues adds a light touch with an ethnic vibe. In jewelry, an open design is emerging—think clean and geometric. For the more daring, there are larger statement dangles and spiked earrings to pump up your look. The newest, edgiest trend is the earring floater, which starts at the earlobe and either crawls up or curves below the ear. As far as footwear, fashion has definitely merged with comfort in the leisure sneaker; our favorite is the Stuart Weitzman slip-on in python with raffia roping.
Q:
I love shopping for my Derby outfit, but I want something different this year. What can I do to put a new spin on my look?
Derby is my favorite time of year; creating a full look from head to toe is a blast! The dress, the shoes, the handbag and, of course, the hat! Fashion for 2015 is decidedly feminine. The prints are lively and range from flowers to abstract watercolors. One of the emerging trends is fabrics that incorporate optical stripes or contrasting prints (like florals with paisley). Interest is also added through texture, such as satin with linen or lace and netting. There is a bit of a departure in terms of silhouette this season: as always there’s the refined sheath, embellished for subtle grace. Then we have the new midriff styles. While not all should bear skin, there is a more modest option: the unusual proportion of a cropped top and higher-waisted skirt excites the eye while still keeping you completely covered up. If you’re shaking your head and thinking “That would never work for me,” come in to the store and let us make
you a believer. One of the more rewarding parts of this career is helping you step outside your box and take a risk. With Derby season as the platform, it’s the time when a new freedom of dressing begins a new journey.
Q:
The term “athleisure” seems to be everywhere these days. What does it mean and how can I make the trend work for me?
This trend is all about accessorizing your activewear so you can go out to brunch or run errands without looking like you just stepped out of the gym. You’ll appear more put together but you’ll still be just as comfortable in the stretchy, breathable fabrics you can’t get enough of. One idea I love is to throw on a lace zip-up jacket over your tee to bring out your feminine side. Almost all of our vendors are now offering active-inspired pieces, and we’ve brought in brands like Anatomie who have the athleisure look at their core. Come in to see what’s new!
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THE EQUESTRIAN COLLECTION
DESIGNED BY
WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM
SPORT STYLE
Athleisure has been dubbed the trend in menswear fashion for spring 2015.
ALL ABOUT BOWIE
David Bowie Is, a traveling exhibition created by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, is also a documentary filmed on the last night of the V&A exhibition covering Bowie’s career as “one of the most pioneering and influential performers of our time.” In addition to displaying over 400 objects (including photography, album art, original fashions and handwritten lyrics), the exhibition includes video installations “to create an immersive journey through Bowie’s artistic life.” David Bowie Is highlights the musician’s influence on all aspects of the arts and popular culture. Since Chicago was the only U.S. city to host the exhibition (at its Museum of Contemporary Art), the documentary was created to give an insiders’ view to people who couldn’t attend. Say the exhibition’s curators, Victoria Broackes and Geoffery Marsh, “We are delighted that as this extraordinary exhibition travels the world, people will get the chance to immerse themselves in a cinematic experience from the original London show. The film offers fascinating detail about key objects from the David Bowie archive, commentary from special guest contributors and a fantastic soundtrack!” —EMD
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This active-inspired style is street chic: think tailored sweatpants and joggers, technical outerwear, modern fleece tops, performance fabrics and designer sneakers. And while you might appear to be headed to the gym, the luxe fabrics and stylistic designs make it so you don’t have to. Michael Fisher from Fashion Snoops, a New York-based trend forecasting agency, explains athleisure as “a subtle technical approach that comes alive in interesting fabric combinations, pieced construction and lightweight layers that mimic the sportif lifestyle.” Come into the store and we’ll help you achieve this active look without breaking a sweat. —EMD
DAVID BOWIE IS IMAGES BY NATHAN KEAY COURTESY OF MCA CHICAGO; RUNWAY IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
the FASHION forum
The Fashion Forum
Labor of Love IMAGE COURTESY OF KENTON MICHAEL
Men of the Cloth, a poignant documentary about Italian master tailors directed by Vicki Vasilopoulos, is must-see viewing for anyone who appreciates fine men’s clothing. This story of artistry, passion and pride is sure to inform and inspire. The painstaking process of creating a hand-crafted suit that conforms to the body and enhances the male form is broken down step-by-step by dedicated old-world craftsmen who fear that this expertise will vanish when they do. Fortunately, today’s resurgence of popular interest in artisanal craftsmanship as an alternative to mass production provides hope for the future of this venerable art form. Check out MenofTheClothFilm.com for screenings; the film will also be available on DVD and streaming from iTunes and Amazon.
HOT TREND: BRACELETS Spring is the season to show off your wrists as bracelets become the latest trend in men’s accessories. You can be creative with styling this look, as there’s no one way to wear them and there’s no one bracelet to wear. Mix and match different styles and materials—from metals to leathers, beads to stones. Stack them with your watch or call attention to the opposite wrist. The options are endless, so roll up your sleeves and have fun with it. —EMD
—KAG
COOL SCHOOL Brunello Cucinelli is making it cool to learn the art of tailoring. He’s investing in young talent with his launch of the Solomeo School, a tailoring academy for the next generation of apprentices. In order to open the school, Cucinelli acquired the business branch of Sartoria d’Avenza, an Italian specialty maker of men’s ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits. There are four programs offered at the Solomeo School: two for Cucinelli’s direct business (Mending and Linking, Cutting and Assembly) and two to aid in the future of Solomeo (Horticulture and Gardening, Masonry). Cucinelli says, “The school is meant to be a vivid and concrete experience in which learning a craft occurs in an environment imbued with humanistic values… Like workshops back in the Renaissance, these are a noble expression of craftsmanship, halfway between art and technique; they complete the human, cultural and spiritual training that, I hope, might stir in our youth the desire to grow up and question itself, the honesty to admit one’s mistakes, the ability to use manual skills to serve intelligence and to be ‘concretely creative.’” The first program runs from October 2014 to June 2015. By training craftsmen for the future, Cucinelli intends to keep the quality in the craft, and in his apparel collections, for years to come. —EMD
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Quality is Always Fashionable
noteworthy
CANALI: SOPHISTICATED OFFHAND STYLE Canali has a new creative consultant, Andrea Pompilio, whose talent is widely recognized in the fashion world. As a careful observer of life, Pompilio draws his inspiration from the small everyday gestures and individual expressions of people he encounters on the streets of big cities throughout the world. His talent lies in his ability to give a twist to the classic male wardrobe, reinterpreting shapes, fabrics, patterns and classic colors in an unconventional and unexpected way. Pompilio’s spring ’15 collection is an intersection of existing heritage and newfound inspiration. It fuses the values and excellence of classic tailoring with the unstructured elegance of leisure. He enjoys finding the perfect balance between these two worlds, brought together by complementary attraction. Starting with the Canali man’s refined attention to detail, Pompilio designs clothing to bring out the unexpected aspects of his style. The lines on suits and sportcoats are soft, lean and comfortable, often featuring checks or horizontal stripes. Trousers rest just at the ankle and are finished with a particularly high (8 cm) cuff. Rounding out the collection are colorful oversized sweaters, casually exquisite shoes in nubuck crocodile or soft two-tone calfskin, parkas, light jackets and long car coats worn over ultra-fine cashmere T-shirts, all glowing with the radiant palette of a Mediterranean summer. For guys who appreciate sophisticated classics but long to express their own personality, the new Canali collection is sure to please.
Above: designer Andrea Pompilio
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA: LUXURY MEETS TECHNOLOGY Already the world’s preeminent maker of luxury menswear, Zegna knows a thing or two about innovation and evolution. For spring/summer 2015, check out their luxurious high-tech fabrics, exclusive patterns, rich new color palette (teal, mauve, shades of blue mixed with light gray, forest green, indigo and camel) and blending of modern design with old-world craftsmanship. Among the many must-haves in store for the season: lots of versatile lightweight outerwear. Styles include sophisticated safari jackets, city coats and blazers; fabrics feature Zegna’s exclusive Trofeo cloth bonded with a breathable membrane (40 percent lighter than previous versions), making these jackets trans-seasonal, water-resistant and very contemporary. If you haven’t bought a warm weather suit lately, now’s the time! Zegna’s summer suits and trousers are made from virtually weightless fabrics including soft, naturally elastic, high-performance wool (15.5 microns) and Trofeo mohair (both surprisingly cool). Seersucker and micro-patterns add a dimension that’s elegant, refined and individually expressive. Most important: Zegna’s soft unlined sportcoats in somewhat shorter lengths will update your image, whether you’re dressing up or dressing down. The finishing summer touches: a silk/cotton tie, polished leather shoes with inverted seams (or sneakers with contrast details if you’re feeling sporty) and the quintessential soft leather bag.
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INJE
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T RT C INJE
#1 In the State of Kentucky for Injectables! Spring is upon us ... Now’s the time to begin your beauty treatments to look and feel your best for the Derby season.
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Louisville 502.814.3000 2341 Lime Kiln Lane Louisville, KY 40222
Lexington 859.269.2256 824 Euclid Ave Lexington, KY 40502
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noteworthy
PETER MILLAR: STYLISH PERFORMANCE “We started out with cashmere sweaters in a lot of colors and it just took off,” says Peter Millar's co-founder and creative director, Chris Knott. The 14-year-old American luxury brand, which takes its name from an inscription on a vintage lawn bowling ball given to Knott by his mother, now covers everything from underwear to outerwear. Two of the newest additions to the Peter Millar lifestyle collection are e4, a performance-driven line, and Pick Stitch, a premium European-made line. “We hired experts in technical apparel to make the e4 line truly authentic,” says Knott. “It’s our styling with performance fabrics.” E4 includes waterproof jackets, stretch jersey golf shirts, lightweight fleece vests and performance pants. They’re pieces you can wear for travel, working out or the game—whether you're watching it or playing it. “Pick Stitch is taking Peter Millar’s classic line and elevating it,” says Knott. “It’s a little more refined, more city. It’s all made in Europe out of European fabrics; we use Loro Piana, Zegna and Carlo Barbera, and cashmere from Todd & Duncan, and put our own spin on it.” “We want to keep our customers right on the edge without making them jump off,” says Knott. “We’re not chasing the next hipster dandy. We’re classic, not traditional; on trend, but not trendy.”
SAMUELSOHN: DESIGN FOR LIFE Three years ago, Samuelsohn was a hidden gem. Based in Montreal, the company founded by master tailor Lesser Samuelsohn in 1923 was still making remarkable full-canvas garments the old-fashioned way, but it wasn't well known outside its league of loyal customers. That's changing. President and designer Arnold Brant Silverstone has managed to double the 90-year-old company without compromising its quality. More than eight hours of work goes into a Samuelsohn suit—they are all full canvas with one-piece collars and hand-sewn armholes. Today there are three collections: Performance, which features innovative waterproof and wrinkle-free wools; Collection, the classic full-canvas line that made Samulesohn's name; and Soft, a lighter collection of full-canvas jackets and suiting for evenings and weekends. “Our Performance line uses a Loro Piana fabric called Extreme that’s exclusive to us,” says Silverstone. “It’s the first Loro Piana fabric with natural stretch and also waterproofing. It’s a beautiful super 120s and 130s wool from Italy that looks rich, but also performs.” Samuelsohn's made-to-measure program is exceptional, both for its quick delivery and the tailors' abilities to make just about anything. “I've never seen a factory that can do what they do,” Silverstone marvels. “We’re a North American company,” he adds proudly. “We understand our customer and we live his lifestyle—we understand the fit and the fabrics and we're designing just for him.”
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photographed events of the year, attracting such superstars as David Bowie, Madonna and Sarah Jessica Parker, who wowed the crowd last year in an extravagantly trained black-and-white dress by Oscar de la Renta. (The benefits are overseen by Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, for whom the Met’s Anna Wintour Costume Center is named.) This year, expect Oscar winner Jennifer Lawrence to stand out (literally and figuratively) on the Met’s steps as one of the co-chairs of the May 4 benefit, which precedes the opening of China: Through the Looking Glass. The show will run from May 5 to August 16. Under the guidance of curators Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, and the artistic direction of filmmaker Wong Kar-wai, this groundbreaking exhibition will feature more than 100 pieces of ready-towear, avant-garde clothing and haute couture (including pieces by Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Paul Smith, Yves St. Laurent and Vivienne Westwood) set alongside Chinese costumes, paintings, porcelains and film stills. “From the earliest period of European contact with China in the 16th century, the West has been enchanted with imagery from the East, providing inspiration for many designers, whose fashions are infused at every turn with romance, nostalgia and make-believe,” says Bolton, who is eager to take all of us through this particular looking glass to provide new reflections on the world of Easterninspired fashion. Start making room in your closet.
THROUGH THE MET’S LOOKING GLASS FASHION AS ART OR ART AS FASHION? BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
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JOHN GALLIANO FOR HOUSE OF DIOR, FALL/WINTER 1997-98; IMAGE BY NICK KNIGHT, NICK KNIGHT / TRUNK ARCHIVE COURTESY OF THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
culture
This summer, there’s a good chance we may be wearing qipaos, cheongsams and Zhongshan suits—even if we’ve never heard of them before. The reason has nothing to do with visiting diplomats from China or the newest blockbuster; instead, look to the remarkable influence of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute (and its annual benefit gala) on fashion trends. The museum has become the “ideal place to explore the rich complexity of the innovative work of a designer like Charles James,” says the museum’s CEO, Thomas Campbell, referring to last year’s popular show Charles James: Beyond Fashion. The exhibit not only resurrected the name and reputation of the great American couturier but reminded viewers of how James’ sculptural creations could flatter the body. True, the Costume Institute has been putting on fashion-related exhibitions for over 50 years, including such landmark shows as The World of Balenciaga, Rock Style and Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed. But its beautifully curated displays have risen to prominence in the last decade, and the result has been a renewed two-way conversation between consumers and the fashion industry. For example, by August 2011, a record-shattering 661,000 visitors had taken in the aptly-named Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, leading to a newfound understanding of—or for some, an introduction to—the intricate creations of the late British designer. Meanwhile, the Met’s annual benefit has become one of the most
ETON SHIRT
‘This Swedish shirt brand is all the rage. Count on Eton for quality craftsmanship and impeccable design.
SPRING ESSENTIALS Top Picks for 2015
VINCE WATERCOLOR PRINT
Wavy and washed-out, this print recalls blue skies and ocean breezes.
ZEGNA PERFORMANCE BLAZER
These sportcoats work overtime to wick moisture, resist wrinkles and conform to your every move.
LISA TODD LIGHTWEIGHT SWEATER
Layer up! Sheer styles keep you covered up but still suggest spring.
PT01 TRAVELER PANT
ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL
Equally at ease with a crewneck or shirt and tie, the color, comfort and fit of these perfect pants will take you far.
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FUZZI MAXI DRESS
Seventies fashion is huge this spring: think flowing skirts, feathers and flower power.
CANALI TRUE BLUE SPORTCOAT
Lighten up! Trade your navy blazer for a brighter, summerready shade.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE STUDIOS. MEN’S STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY. COPY AND WOMEN’S STYLING BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE. GROOMING BY JULIANNA GROGAN. MODELS WALTER SAVAGE AND ANDREA DENVER @ SOUL MODEL MANAGEMENT; KATY BEAL @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. WOMEN’S JEWELRY COURTESY OF DANIELLE STEVENS, LULU DHARMA, SACRED JEWELS, DEEPA GURNANI.
Its streamlined silhouette and solid color means you won’t have to switch bags with every outfit. Its oversized shape holds all your everyday essentials.
MZ WALLACE GO-ANYWHERE TOTE
food
QUINOA CRAZE
THIS ANCIENT GRAIN IS EXPERIENCING A GLOBAL SURGE IN POPULARITY. BY JACQUELINE FRATINI bitter taste. To cook quinoa, use two cups of water for every one cup of rinsed seeds and boil, stirring occasionally, until the quinoa absorbs the water and becomes soft.
QUINOA POWER SALAD 1½ cups quinoa, rinsed 2 avocados 1 pint cherry tomatoes 8 oz. baby spinach ½ red onion 1 or 2 lemons 1 can of corn 1 can of black beans Salt and pepper to taste Cook quinoa in 3 cups of water. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer and stir continuously. Cube both avocados and halve cherry tomatoes, then add to a large bowl. Mix in baby spinach; add more if desired. Finely chop red onion and add to bowl. Drain and rinse beans and corn; add to bowl. Cut lemon in half; squeeze juice over the mixture and stir. Add cooked and cooled quinoa. Season with salt and pepper, and mix all ingredients together. Add more lemon to taste. Serve immediately. Makes 3 to 4 servings.
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ABOVE IMAGE I-STOCK; INSET IMAGE SHUTTERSTOCK
For those who want a nutritious yet filling food to kickstart a healthy diet before swimsuit season heats up: look no further. Although quinoa (pronounced keen-wah) dates back over 3,000 years, 2013 was named “The International Year of Quinoa” by The Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations. And it’s only gotten bigger since. This super food, referred to as the “mother of grains,” is an organic, gluten- and GMO-free seed packed full of nutrients. Not only does it contain numerous antioxidants and all nine amino acids (making it a complete protein), it’s also high in fiber and has a low glycemic index, all good qualities for weight loss and improved health. This versatile grain works in both sweet and savory dishes and comes in different varieties, white being the most common. Red quinoa tends to hold its shape better when cooked, which is beneficial for making certain dishes like cold salads. Black quinoa is sweeter than any other type of the seed. Nutritional value varies slightly by type, but one recommended serving size of cooked quinoa (about ¼ cup) has an average of 170 calories with high amounts of protein and potassium. Quinoa is a perfect option to replace starches with less nutritional value like rice, pasta and oatmeal. Pre-seasoned quinoa is available at most health food stores, as is puffed quinoa, which is great for making healthy snacks like quinoa crispy treats (rather than rice crispy treats). Plain quinoa has little flavor, so it can be added to almost any dish to increase nutritional value without affecting the taste. Be sure to check whether your quinoa comes pre-rinsed. If not, rinse before using to discard the natural coating quinoa carries, called saponin, which may cause a
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spirits
BOTTLE ART ALCOHOL BRANDS SUPPORT THE ARTS AND FASHION. While you’re probably familiar with the wine and cheese served at art gallery openings, or jazz concerts held on winery lawns, you may not know how significant a role fine alcohol plays in supporting and promoting fine arts and fashion. There are the sponsorships: Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, Coachella, Art Basel and so on. Some brands go beyond hosting after parties, as Stoli did in 2012: it partnered with designers at Sachika to create gowns inspired by the vodka's newest flavors. And of course, Absolut introduced the concept of bottle as art in 1986. Andy Warhol suggested creating a piece that incorporated the nowiconic bottle, thus launching the first of the Swedish vodka’s innovative print ads. The brand reportedly has a massive storeroom of Absolut-inspired or sponsored artwork to rival the government warehouse where the Ark of the Covenant was stashed in Indiana Jones. Other producers take their involvement to the next level. This past November, The Macallan single-malt Scotch whisky released the fifth in its series of Masters of Photography collaborations, this time highlighting the work of fashion photographer Mario Testino. With each collaboration, Macallan commissions original works from the likes of Annie Leibovitz, Elliot Erwin and others centered around a relevant theme (Erwin shot around Scotland, Leibovitz incorporated Scottish actor Kevin McKidd’s chiseled looks into a variety of drink-worthy settings). Macallan’s whisky maker Bob Dalgarno crafts unique expressions of Macallan inspired by the theme and the
images. This year, Testino interprets Macallan’s ‘‘Six Pillars’’ of craftsmanship (small stills, oak casks, natural color, spiritual home, finest cut and the whisky itself) through four iconic images. One thousand Mario Testino editions were made, costing $3,500 each. That price bags you one of the Testino images, a unique expression of Macallan specially blended from six special casks, minis of the six individual casks, and a lacquer box also designed by Testino. Bottle closures have become a popular venue for partnering with woodworkers, jewelers and sculptors. DeLeon Tequila (relaunched this year by hip hop mogul Sean ‘‘Diddy’’ Combs) boasts an ornate (and heavy) silver bottle cap crafted by ‘‘biker jewelry’’ designer Bill Wall. Last year, Patrón teamed up with Evan Yurman, design director for David Yurman timepieces, to create a limited-edition bottle stopper for Patrón Añejo tequila. The $55 metal die-cast stopper is designed to look like the handle of a samurai sword, electroplated in gunmetal and 24K gold. Not every affiliation requires direct involvement with the bottle. Two years ago, Chivas partnered with luxury automobile designer Pininfarina to craft the Chivas 18 Mascherone, an edition of five streamlined sculptures/display cabinets selling for $100,000 each. And last year, Italian leather company Poltrana Frau was inspired to create a special edition of the company’s 1919 wingback chair, inspired by winemaker Lamberto Frescobaldi’s Luce della Vite wine. Dyed an intense Sangiovese red, it features an oak-lined cupholder attachment (for your wine glass) and monogrammed brass plate.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF THE MACALLAN SCOTCH
BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
at your service
Going above and beyond for you is the heart and soul of Rodes’ culture. Here are a few services we offer to make your experience special.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to meet your schedule for any of your shopping needs. Just call us and we’ll make it happen.
HOME/OFFICE VISITS MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.
GIFT CARDS We’ll make it easy. . . Order online at rodes.com, stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.
Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But, no worries: we’re more than happy to come to your home or office, anytime.
CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Rodes for a personal wardrobe/closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.
ALTERATIONS
PERSONAL DELIVERY
With expert tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. We are the largest tailor shop in the area. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.
Whether in Louisville, Southern Indiana, or anywhere in the United States, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift wrap and then there’s Rodes gift wrap! The unforgettable "Red Box with the White Ribbon." It’s always complimentary and is the perfect finishing touch.
OF STYLE
If you’ll pardon me for tweaking the immortal words of the Declaration of Independence: I hold these truths to be self-evident, that all wardrobes are not created equal. Some men have an unwavering sense of personal style that appears to be hotwired into their DNA, while the sartorially challenged (clearly the majority) can barely coordinate their shirts with their trousers. The Italians call it sprezzatura, this innate ability to make something difficult—like putting together a wardrobe that looks both casual and chic—seem incredibly easy. The ability to dress with style is not so much a matter of genetics as it is an acquired skill. To master the art, one must think of it as a game. To play well, you first need to know the rules.
Rule #3: Feel free to mix patterns on your shirts, jackets and ties. Start out mixing solids, stripes and checks in one color family before moving into the kaleidoscopic fast lane. (Ask your sales associate if you need help!)
Rule #4: Sporty is the new black in menswear, so dress like an athlete even if the closest you ever get to the playing field is through a remote control. Invest in casual pieces like modern sweatshirts and sweaters, and unlined blazers with elbow patches, preferably in opulent materials like cashmere. “It’s all about the illusion of sport. Everybody feels younger dressing in sporty, casual clothes,” explains Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli.
Rule #1: Suits and sportcoats are the foundation of the well-dressed man’s wardrobe. Few understand the art of tailoring better than the Italians, who cut their suits closer to the body, trimmer in the chest and high in the armhole so they fit like a second skin. Pick the style that flatters your shape and always buy the highest quality your bank balance will allow. The hallmarks of fine suit making are easy to spot. Start with the fabric: the finer the cloth, the better the material “drapes.” It’s also the biggest factor in the final cost. Look for canvas inner linings in place of fused or glued components inside the chest, to help retain the jacket’s shape. One way to tell is by pinching the front of the jacket from the bottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining and the floating canvas inner lining—you’re buying the real deal.
Rule #5: Want to know if a guy is well-dressed? Look down. The first thing a woman notices about a man after his eyes (and sometimes his wallet) is his shoes. Invest in several well-made pairs, both dressy and sporty, preferably in shades of brown, which is the most versatile color. It goes with everything. Monk straps and lace-ups are best with suits; loafers are for sportcoats and jeans. Rotate your footwear as often as your wardrobe allows to keep the leather fresh and supple.
Rule #6: Fit is everything when it comes to denim. Slim cuts in dark washes are dressier, currently on trend and wear well with knitwear and blazers.
Rule #7: Learn to tie a proper tie. It’s all about the knot and the dimple. The knot should be proportionate to the shape of your face and shirt collar. The dimple under the knot shows you took the time to do it right.
Rule #2: When buying a shirt, focus on the collar first. The collar frames the face—your best asset—and should compliment its shape and size. Straight, pointed collars help narrow a round face while spread collars look best with lean faces.
Naturally, it takes practice to become a true paragon of men’s style. Our advice, for both expert and novice, is to start at your favorite men’s shop, pick out the best-dressed sales associate in the room, and let him show you the ropes.
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BY BILL KISSEL; IMAGE COURTESY OF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
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THE RULES
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
RODES FORUM SPRING 2015