Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2015
COATS FOR ALL REASONS
WHY YOU NEED A NEW TUX! TRIPS OF A LIFETIME
CONTENTS Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser INTERIM MANAGING EDITOR
Brian Scott Lipton PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN
FEATURES
DEPARTMENTS
50 Robert Curran Brings Good Form to the Louisville Ballet 52 New and Noteworthy 56 Day into Night 58 Profile: Above the Fray 72 Designers: Giving Season 74 In Living Color 76 Destinations: A Buyer’s Guide to Florence
4 6 36 38 70 76 78 80 82 84
FASHION 13 60 64 66
Rodes Fall Fashion Formal and Fabulous Tuxedo Tune-Up Out of the Woods
Welcome Letter Happenings Ask Forum for Jim Ask Susan The Fashion Forum Wheels: What Drives Him Grooming: Barbershop Wisdom How to Get the Relationship You Want Spirits: Whiskey Stocks End Page: Dressing Up the Weekend Wardrobe
Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-8528175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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welcome
TURNING OVER A NEW LEAF
Fall is our favorite time of year because it’s all about change. The air turns crisp, leaves explode in vibrant color, students select new curriculums and fall sports finally kick off. Change is the only constant in the world; we’ve embraced it and have transformed! Among our in-store changes: we revamped the men’s side with Zegna and Eton shop-in-shops, keeping to our roots of offering the freshest luxe designs in men’s suiting, while expanding our sportswear to be casual with flair. We increased our selection by adding cool new lines for the next generation, including Vince, Peter Millar, Hudson Jeans and Maurizio Baldassari. The women’s side has had a complete facelift and we are excited about adding Blink Boutique. We are proud to offer the best in contemporary and designer brands in both ready-to-wear and accessories. Rodes has always boasted great brands like Escada, Armani, St John, Etro and Lafayette 148; now we have added revolutionary lines like Shoshanna, Black Halo, Joie, and Vince. Rodes has been re-energized! As the shopping destination for Louisville, our constant is our amazing Rodes family, always dedicated to providing our clients with great service and inspiring fashions. Come in and see what’s fresh and new for you. Thank you for your friendship and support! See you around town, Susan & Howard Vogt
happenings
DERBY DIVAS!
Over 400 women (and Man- Divas) celebrated at Rodes during the 9th annual Derby Divas fundraiser, which was a special night of shopping, fun and friendship. The event raised over $100,000 to benefit the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program and to support the cost of mammograms for underserved women in our community. See all our photo galleries at rodes.com.
SJ K .C OM
RUNWAY & RESCUE The Runway & Rescue event was held at the Frazier History Museum in March as a benefit for the American Saddlebred Museum and Saddlebred Rescue. The event was hosted by television personality, author and Saddlebred owner Carson Kressley and featured the trendiest and most eyecatching men’s and women’s fashions available.
WMB's St. Matthews officers identified left to right: Allen Ilano, Mortgage Loan Officer • Amy Ballard, Mortgage Loan Officer • Mark Hardin, Loan Officer/ Credit Analyst Vinet Herovic, Mortgage Loan Officer • Frank B. Wilson, President and CEO • Andy Parker, SVP Commercial Lending Sam Winkler, SVP Commercial Lending • Lawrence Fox, VP and Branch Manager • Mary Barker, Loan Officer/ Credit Administration Brian Bates, SVP Mortgage Lending
Personal Service: The Simple Approach to Banking Since 1865, Wilson & Muir Bank has proudly contributed to the growth of Kentucky's communities by helping individuals and businesses with all of their financial needs. Throughout Jefferson, Nelson, Grayson and Hardin Counties we offer all of the deposit, loan and convenience services, including mobile and online banking, that you'll find at larger banks. But there's one key difference: WMB still offers a very simple approach to banking based on delivering genuine personal service. Tell us what you need and we'll find you the best solution. It’s been our commitment for 150 years and counting. Scan this QR code to visit our new Facebook page.
130 St. Matthews Ave • 502.454.5400 • www.wilsonmuirbank.com
EAT, DRINK & BE CHIC Rodes hosted a benefit for the Lexington Cancer Foundation at The Livery in downtown Lexington last November. What a great place to have a Shopping Party! The event was co-sponsored by Sophisticated Living Magazine, Kimbrel Birkman Interiors, The Apiary and Jefferson’s Reserve bourbon.
ROCK STAR
DESIGNED BY
Rock Crystal Dome with Pave’ Diamond Star Inlaid
WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM
B E H I N D E V E RY G O O D PA RT Y I S A G R E AT H O S T. . .
S T O N E WA R E est. 1815 LouisvilleStoneware.com
ARMANI COLLEZIONI
ESCADA
CANALI
SCOTT BARBER
ST. JOHN
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI
BASLER
BASLER
PETER MILLAR
AGAVE
LAFAYETTE 148 NEW YORK
DORIANI
OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE II IN PL ATINUM
rolex
oyster perpetual and day-date are 速 trademarks.
Quality is Always Fashionable
Because we put you in the center of our attention!
SAMUELSOHN
THEIA
SHOSHANNA
LEO & SAGE
ALEXIS BITTAR
ETON
SAMUELSOHN
JOIE SAVE THE DUCK
HAMMITT
RALEIGH
BROCHU WALKER
LAMARQUE
VINCE.
askJIM Today versus yesterday
Q:
What’s the correct length for a modern man’s pants? My girlfriend is complaining that I’m wearing my pants too short (I recently had my tailor shorten them all) but I often see models in magazines with socks showing. Who’s right?
Like most things in life, it’s not black and white: European designers are showing pants shorter than American designers and fashion experts continue to debate length. Our opinion: because pant styles today are slimmer than they were a few seasons back, pant legs worn too long tend to “accordion” from ankle to calf, a truly unattractive look. The most flattering length has the bottom of the pant leg just caressing the top of the shoe, with no creases down the pant leg and no breaks at the bottom. If your socks or skin are visible, the pants are too short.
FALL 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Q:
I have a perfectly good winter coat from last year; will it work this season?
Q:
What’s up with the flowers I’m seeing guys wear on their suit lapels?
It probably will. Since menswear designers believe in investment dressing, they’re usually careful not to change styles dramatically from one season to the next. That said, one coat no longer fits all occasions or all lifestyles, so you might want to consider alternating among several different styles with different functions. Options include a wool or cashmere topcoat for dressing up, a three-quarter-length wool coat for business, a leather jacket for looking cool and a quilted down parka (or vest ) for activewear and maximum warmth. Many of today’s fabrics are also specially treated to be waterproof and heat-retentive: come in and we’ll show you a great assortment. (And check out our outerwear fashion shoot in this issue!)
Lapel flowers, lapel pins, tie bars, cuff links, wrist jewelry, pocket squares, scarves, bags, interesting belts—men’s accessories are increasingly important and allow you to make a personal statement about who you are. If this seems a bit out of your comfort zone, try wearing just one accessory and see what it does for you. A beaded or silver bracelet that barely shows from under your shirt cuff is a good starting point, as is a pocket square that adds a touch of class to your suit or sportcoat, or a cashmere scarf that adds a luxe touch to anything you wear. If nothing else, you need a great leather bag this fall to replace that beat-up briefcase (and to save your pockets from getting over-stuffed). Remember too that accessories make great gifts since you don’t need to deal with sizes. Pocket squares for all the guys in the office? Interesting umbrellas? The perfect business card case? Happy shopping!
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askSUSAN Q:
YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED
It seems like I have every style of pants, from skinny jeans to wide-leg trousers, in my wardrobe. How do I know what top and shoe to pair with each style?
Q:
My black winter coat feels old and heavy. What is the outerwear game for fall 2015/2016?
You need to create balance in the overall silhouette of your outfit, rather than too much of everything in the same outfit. We suggest pairing skinny jeans or leggings with a blouse or sweater that has volume and length to cover your bottom. Tops with a high-low hem are particularly flattering and on trend. Finish with either a high heel or a heeled bootie, then add long chains and stacks of bangles to complete the look. There’s a bit more flexibility when it comes to straight-leg pants and jeans. Throw on an embellished cropped sweatshirt (with or without a long layering piece underneath) and sleek sneakers for a daytime casual look. Or try a tucked-in buttondown and mid-heel mule to add definition at the waist and lengthen your legs. For traditional dress pants or menswear-inspired trousers, you definitely want a closer-fitting top. A layered look works well, so try a twinset or a blouse under a blazer. Flats here are too predictable, so try a medium or high heel. (During your fitting to have your pants hemmed, be sure that you’re wearing the heel height you plan to wear with the pants in the future.) Make sure the hem is almost touching the ground after your shoe is on: not long enough that you’d step on it, but long enough that just the tip of your shoe peeks out when you walk. Step out in style with our expanded shoe collection! To complement our selection from Stuart Weitzman and Tory Burch, we have added footwear from Loeffler Randall, Vince, Joie and Lucchese Boots.
Our designer collections are offering the best outerwear pieces we’ve seen in many seasons. One of my favorites is an easy-fit robe-style coat, with tie-waist and oversized shawl collar. Whether it’s worn over jeans with a great scarf or a date-night dress, it adds a simple sophistication to anything. There is also the resurgence of princess and shorter-length coats, fitted and elegant, in ivory or even patterned. On the puffer side, coats come in every incarnation, from vest to full-length, elegantly trimmed in mink or in a playful animal print. Plus, its light weight makes the puffer great for driving the kids around town or curling up on a plane. Check out Save the Duck’s moisture-repelling performance fabrics with a little bit of shine.
Q:
I’ve noticed some growth in your denim department. Why now?
Denim is a statement piece in your closet. It’s also vital to have several styles in your closet. Our goal is to offer everything you need to be casual chic. We’re now stocking the latest styles from Agave, Hudson, L’Agence, Paige and more, from skinny to straight and dark to light, colors and prints or distressed. We hope you’ll shop with us to find your perfect pair.
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ISAIA
IRIS SETLAKWE
LINDA RICHARDS
CINZIA ROCCA
CANALI LA PETITE ROBE
FUZZI
CANALI
ETON
QUINN
ETON
MAGASCHONI HUDSON JEANS
HUDSON JEANS
LOEFFLER RANDALL
ETRO
ROBERT TALBOTT
Thank you to photographers Andrew Kung and Allie Filley, makeup by Meagan Townsend and hair by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa. Also, we would like to thank Nanz & Kraft Florist, Francis Lee Jasper Oriental Rugs, The Louisville Ballet and Louisville Stoneware.
culture
Robert Curran brings
GOOD FORM TO THE LOUISVILLE BALLET BY SUSAN VOGT
W
e were invited to a fundraiser at my friend Viki’s home to raise awareness of the Louisville Ballet Education and Outreach program, which goes into the public schools to teach students the value of dance and movement. I listened to various board members and directors with curiosity, but it was the short dance program I saw that night that left the strongest impression. A small troupe of dancers from Louisville Ballet’s high school outreach program came to perform, and I was so moved by watching these 15 young ballerinas in action. In their faces, I saw so many emotions: joy from those who knew they have found a passion for dance; happiness from those who just loved being on their toes; and fear from those who were driving themselves just to make it through the performance. But in all of them I saw discipline,
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mere extrovert), as well as possess an inticommitment and pride for permate knowledge of their bodies, which can forming for us that evening. facilitate breathtaking strength and freeAfter the performance, I made dom on the stage. That said, Robert is my way over to meet the compathrilled how recreational dance has ny’s recently appointed artistic emerged as an option in the younger fitdirector, Robert Curran, in order ness-oriented generation. Beyond traditionto congratulate him on a job well ally offered classes such as Jazz, he likes done – and to ask him if I could seeing the discipline of exercise classes on use his ballerinas in my upcomthe ballet barre such as Barre Fitness. ing photo shoot for this magaWhen the day of the photo shoot arrived, zine! He not only graciously gave Bendy On the Barre in Koral activewear I couldn’t have me access to the Louisville Ballet been more studio for a day—along with four excited. ballerinas and their ballet master, Harald Robert’s profesUwe Kern – but he also offered me the sional dancers opportunity to have a conversation with were four very him. sweet girls who s one might imagine, you could Robert is quite passionseemingly find ate about being the compaat any grocery ny’s new artistic director, noting that store or walk Louisville is in a Renaissance period, with past while neighborhoods being revitalized, a resurshopping. gence of great dining and music venues, and a re-awakening Hudson Denim On Pointe While they were having their hair and of public interest in dance. After make-up done, they were giddy, telling training at the Australian School of tales from the event from the night Ballet, Robert spent 16 years as a before. When they were ready, Harald dancer, director and choreographer Uwe Kern entered the studio to chorewith The Australian Ballet, where he ograph these young women, and I achieved the rank of Principal, and watched as these girls transformed has danced all around the world. into true ballerinas. In his new role, Robert is commitHere, we feature these remarkable ted to the idea of education through dancers modeling a selection of our experience. “I can still remember the Fall 2015 clothing. My many thanks to first moment when I saw dancers all who inspired me! perform and decided that is what I want to do when I grow up! How Caped In Attitude exciting that was!” he exclaimed. by Sophia While he personally teaches dancers Cashmere and Swooning over Sweaters by Joie & Cullen at the elite level, his role as artistic Capped by Christine director is to inspire dancers at all Moore Hats levels. He stressed that dance particularly shows young women and men how to find strategies in creative problem solving in all areas of life, and that dance allows them to find confidence and appreciate who they are – and who they can become. Robert emphasized that one’s body type does not dictate the ability to perform. Moreover, one of the goals of the outreach program is that the young dancers’ ability to participate is also not dictated by a financial decision. Indeed, one goal of the program is to create opportunities for all of Louisville’s young people, regardless of any barriers. Of course, as Robert wisely pointed out, at some early point in a dancer’s life, a decision has to be made whether ballet will be a vocation or recreation. A professional dancer must exude a true confidence on stage (a quality which should not be confused with being a
A
The Art of Fashion
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new&noteworhty
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI: QUINTESSENTIAL ITALIAN ELEGANCE Once in a while, a men’s collection comes along that is immediately “must-have.” The 25 year old family-owned Maurizio Baldassari collection is deeply rooted in traditional Italian tailoring and very much inspired by Brera, the Milanese art district the luxury label calls home. It encapsulates a youthful vein in fashion, by offering classics with a twist for the current gentleman as well as the next generation. Capturing the unfussy yet refined style of the city’s charming locals, Baldassari’s timeless essentials can be effortlessly worn for both work and weekends. The brand’s key attributes—craftsmanship and quality—are apparent in their exquisitely constructed jackets, shirtings and accessories. Cut from sumptuously rich fabrics like cashmere, silk and suede, Maurizio Baldassari’s collection epitomizes Italian elegance. Try it and be transformed!
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI
MARC AUREL
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI
MARC AUREL
MARC AUREL: SUBTLE GLAMOUR
Founded in Germany in 1972, the Marc Aurel collection sells in 16 countries. Designed for confident women who understand and appreciate international style, the collection is all about clean lines, attention to detail, perfect fit and quality workmanship. “We’re inspired by the women for whom we design our collections,” says the designer. “These women are sophisticated: they dress to express their unique personalities. This is why every fabric, every stitch and every detail in our garments reflects a passion for individual creativity.” For fall 2015, the collection features modern layered Boho-inspired looks in cool neutrals splashed with soft pastels. Key items include vests worn over jackets, accents of animal prints and ethnic embellishments. Silhouettes remain slim, with flowy chiffon touches that take these looks from day into evening. With style!
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MIRIAM HASKELL
trending
DAY into NIGHT BY SUSAN VOGT
As the day melts into evening, your clothes should make the transition with you, simply and stylishly! And with all of our busy schedules, it’s nice to treat ourselves to a fun night out without a major wardrobe change. Carly leaves for the day in a beautiful Escada blush pink car coat, with a cowl neck knit underpinning, and a great pair of distressed leather leggings. Her accessories are straightforward and unfussy: kitten heeled leopard shoes from Emmy Mack, rose gold choker and dangle ears from Alexis Bittar. Nick Carter from Joseph’s Hair Salon styled her day look with long loose curls, soft blush and lips. Moving into evening, we created a sexy but uncomplicated silhouette. First we removed the jacket, shoes and jewelry, and Nick got right to work creating a sleek updo. “For this look, I
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simply swept her hair up in a loose bun using a few bobby pins. (You could also try an easy ‘French-twist,’ with a couple of decorative chop sticks or hair pins.) Create a little drama by dusting on some bronzer to the cheeks, adding a fresh layer of mascara, and darkening the lips just a tad. You’ll be in low-lit spaces at night; by enhancing these three areas, your features will pop,” says Nick. We complemented the pink knit and leather leggings with a soft grey bolero from Jocelyn Furs, upgraded the kitten heels for a pair of high-heeled kicks from Emmy Mack, and blinged out by changing to rose gold crystal earrings, adding long chains and bangles for the wrist. Splash on your favorite fragrance and in about 15 minutes, you’re good to go. And simply gorgeous!
profile
ABOVE THE FRAY
REVOLUTIONARY STRETCH TULLE FABRIC SETS FUZZI APART IN THE FASHION WORLD. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
In 1954, the Fuzzi family opened a modest knitwear factory in Cattolica, Italy. But it wasn’t until the founders’ daughter, Anna Maria Fuzzi, joined the business in 1971 that the company’s interest in fabric innovation truly began. She believed that women should be able to express themselves with the freedom and ease of a ballet dancer, and so she began to experiment. The result is the brand’s one-of-a-kind stretch tulle fabric, which is functional as well as beautiful. It can be hand-washed (and never needs dry cleaning), can be packed and unpacked without wrinkling, and miraculously stretches and conforms to flatter all body types. Moreover, Fuzzi’s tulle tops, dresses and skirts can even be hemmed at home with scissors without ever fraying. This innovative fabric drew the attention of several major design houses, and in 1983, the Fuzzi factory began producing ready-to-wear collections for Jean Paul Gaultier. The legendary designer’s avant-garde aesthetic and Fuzzi’s unmatched technical know-how made for a perfect partnership, which endured until his brand shuttered last year. However, the designer’s influence can still be found in the Fuzzi label’s embrace of color and pattern, along with its fearless use of embellishments and mixed prints. Anna Maria continues to operate as the company’s president from Fuzzi’s factory in Cattolica, while North American operations have come under the creative direction of Marianne Hicks. Recent collections have stepped up the fashion factor with the aim of attracting a more diverse female audience. (Fuzzi’s factory also produces some of the best jerseys and merino knits in Italy.) “We’re constantly thinking from a woman’s point of view. Our fabrics conform and camouflage in all the right places,” says Hicks. The fall 2015 collection is feminine yet highly wearable, dominated by dark, moody prints and tasteful embellishments including lace and fringe. Inspired by the idea of “illusion,” Hicks played with zippers that open and close to reveal underlying pattern, as well as fused garments that look like separates but are actually one piece, taking the guesswork out of fall layering. Jacquards and animal prints give merino outerwear pieces the illusion of winter-like texture, but are made in seasonless weights that work for southern climates. “We try to inject added value into each piece, so every collection includes five or six convertible items: long skirts with fold-down waists that double as maxi dresses, pants that convert to jumpsuits, or ponchos that can also be worn as scarves,” says Hicks. “We’re not a basics company. Fuzzi is designed for women who aren’t afraid to stand out.”
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY EVAN TAYLOR GUNVILLE
formal&
FABULOUS! UPGRADE YOUR STYLE WITH THESE FRESH TAKES ON THE TUXEDO. (OR GO CUSTOM TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN...)
Update your look with blue or navy, a slimmer fit, a shawl
or peak lapel collar, or your own special customized details.
fashion
Extends beyond natural shoulder, creating a stiff, boxy look. Shirt is baggy and billowy.
Jacket is too wide, adding visual bulk.
Cummerbund is outdated.
Pant rise is much too long. (Saggy crotch is never a good look!)
Sleeves are too long and wide.
Pants are too big, causing bunching and adding bulk.
TUXEDO TUNE-UP YOUR ONCE-STYLISH FORMAL SUIT IS DUE FOR AN UPDATE.
Jacket follows natural slope of shoulder.
Black is always acceptable, but why not try something new in blue?
Sleeves are slightly shorter to expose a bit of shirt cuff.
Peak lapels are still a great choice, but newer styles are slightly narrower and higher on the shoulder.
Shirt is sleek and fits close to the body.
No cummerbund is more modern.
Bottom of jacket hits at mid-hip.
Hem just grazes top of shoe.
IMAGES BY EVAN TAYLOR
Pants that fit closer to the leg take off pounds (and years)!
WOODS
out of the
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT
HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY
THE MAN MAKES THE COAT AND THE COAT MAKES THE MAN
the FASHION forum
SINATRA STYLE
He coined the phrase “Saloon Songs”—those poignant tunes of unrequited love, sadness, and heartbreak that, according to contemporary crooner Michael Feinstein, are meant to be experienced “with a cigarette in one hand and a drink in the other…” In celebration of the centennial of Frank Sinatra’s birth, it seems the entire country is focusing on not just the music of America’s favorite cultural icon, but also his influence on fashion. The fedora worn at an angle, the soft shoulder suit with a slightly shorter length jacket and trouser, the loosely knotted tie all still look as fresh and appealing as they did a few decades back. A recent exhibit at the New York Public Library for Performing Arts at Lincoln Center, “Sinatra: An American Icon,” confirms our theory: Sinatra’s style is as timeless as his eversoulful songs. —Karen Alberg Grossman
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While few dads in recent years have shown excessive enthusiasm for the prototypical Christmas gift—the dreaded necktie—today’s fashionable fathers appreciate the value and versatility of this timeless accessory. They know natty neckwear can be worn to the office, to a weekend party, or to a casual dinner out. Clearly narrower than in years past, ties now use fabrics ranging from smooth silks to textured wovens in everything from vividly-hued solids to subtle patterns. For extra oomph, try a tie bar, which can add the perfect finishing touch to any outfit. Just make sure it extends no further than the width of your tie and that it holds the front and back of your tie to your shirt placket. A new tie is the perfect gift for a new generation, and a great way to stand out from the crowd! —Jillian LaRochelle
SINATRA: KEN VEEDER/CAPTIOL PHOTO ARCHIVES; KNOT: COURTESY OF ETON
KNOT A PROBLEM
BROADWAY’S BEST DRESSED MEN Men looking for sartorial guidance need look no further than Broadway’s current leading men. Celebrities who know how to dress-to-impress showed their sartorial style on opening nights and the awards circuit last spring. Tony Award winner Alex Sharp lived up to his last name in natty tailored suits and sportcoats, often in whites and off-whites, which play well off his slim frame. Tall, dark and handsome dancer Robert Fairchild was not just quick on his feet, but always impeccably groomed from head-to-toe. Meanwhile, 2014 Tony winner James Monroe Iglehart (left) was a true friend to fashion, proving that larger men can look spectacular in checks, stripes, and patterns. And fan favorites such as Brian d’Arcy James (far left), Andrew Rannells, Tony Yazbeck, David Burtka, Max von Essen, Matthew Morrison and Andy Karl were among the latest crop of stars who redefined dashing while showing off their impeccable taste in both classic (and not-soclassic) formalwear. Bravo, gentlemen! —Brian Scott Lipton
CULT OF CELEBRITY BROADWAY: GETTY IMAGES; CLOONEY: COURTESY OF OMEGA WATCHES
In recent years, top-name designers of fashion, accessories, and fragrance have begun using more A-list celebrities to convince us to purchase their worthy wares. John Varvatos featured the faces of rock n’ roll gods Kiss and Ringo Starr in two recent ad campaigns; soccer superstar David Beckham, New York Rangers goalie Henrik Lundqvist, and teen idol Justin Bieber have bared almost all in underwear ads; and Chanel even convinced Hollywood hunk Brad Pitt to pitch their perfume to both men and women. Now, famed watch brand Omega has asked brand ambassador George Clooney for some modeling time, filming the silver-haired stud on a motorcycle to promote the company’s Speedmaster ‘57. Of course, it might be hard to focus on the watch while your eyes are fixed on the face of Tinseltown’s most handsome leading man. —Brian Scott Lipton
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designers
GIVING SEASON
OUT FAVORITE MEN OF STYLE SHARE THEIR HOLIDAY GIFT PICKS. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, Eton What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? My girlfriend gave me an antique silver ring from Nepal covered with red coral and turquoise. What’s on your holiday wish list this year? Good health for my family. I never really wish for any special gifts; I prefer to go away on holiday with the people that are close to me. I would like to visit the Falkland Islands this year. What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? I would really recommend one of our fantastic prints to add some flair to the modern gentleman's wardrobe.
GIANLUCA ISAIA, Isaia What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? The gift of passion for the Neapolitan tailoring tradition I received from my father before I could walk…since I still had a pacifier in my mouth! What’s on your holiday wish list this year? Finding the strength to switch my cellphone off for at least one week… What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? For the man who needs to stay warm it’s our down Babbà jacket in green Aquacashmere. I never take it off when I am visiting New York City in the winter. It gets freezing! (Which also means I cannot wear my Isaia leather flip flops with suits when walking on Madison Avenue during the cold season…)
ARNOLD SILVERSTONE, Samuelsohn What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? A sense of passion and integrity that I received from my parents; it defines who I am today and what I bring to everything that I do including designing and my work. What’s on your holiday wish list this year? Quality time spent with friends and family during the holidays. Given my busy schedule and constant travel, that would be the ultimate present. What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? Our new travel top coat in pure cashmere (Loro Piana Storm System) is water and wrinkle resistant. It will keep you warm, dry and stylish; it’s the perfect travel companion.
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style
IN LIVING COLOR
yellow or rose will be found as subtle accents on shirts, colorblocked pullovers, or casual slacks, all designed to be worn with neutral-hued jackets, knitwear and vests in a way most American men will easily embrace. Likewise, boldly-striped knitwear, boat-style (and even banded) collared shirts, quilted vests, and lightweight outerwear made of technical fabrics allow one to live the lifestyle of a seaman without ever having to leave the docks. And such everyday staples as the familiar hooded sweatshirt, drawstring trouser or pull-on short are often rendered in opulent fabrics like cashmere, silk and micro-wool blends. They’re so extremely luxurious that it’s hard to imagine wearing them for any sport, unless it involves a remote control.
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SAMANTHA BERNACKY
When there is any sort of disturbance in an Italian city, or merely an unexpected curve in the road, the locals are fond of calling such incidents "a manifestation.” So one might say there is a “manifestation” happening in menswear this fall–and especially next spring. Top Italian clothing brands such as Brunello Cucinelli, Isaia, Kiton, Belvest, and Brioni are taking such familiar warm weather ideas as bright color, nautical styling and even luxury leisurewear and adding their own unexpected twists. Judging by the "Living Color" theme at the latest round of Italian menswear shows, color will be at the forefront for the next several months, including on skinny, short-cropped trousers, richly-hued belts, and shirts with collars large enough to land a jetliner. Moreover, Pantone shades of apple green, chamomile
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ITALIAN DESIGNERS ARE USING COLORS AND FABRICS IN UNEXPECTED WAYS
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wheels
WHAT DRIVES HIM?
HOW RACE CAR DRIVING PREPARED ROBERT TALBOTT CEO BOB CORLISS FOR BUSINESS AND FOR LIFE. BY DAVID A. ROSE How did you first get into race car driving? My parents were enthusiastic racing fans and would drag me to various motorsports events. When we didn’t go to an event we’d watch it on television; it was part of growing up in Europe. Because so few roads in Europe had speed limits, I was never intimidated by speed. I always seemed to live close to a race circuit and I loved waking up to the distant sound of race engines. I’d drive out to the circuit to see what was going on and would always meet really cool people. One day I was looking to buy a trailer to transport my car, but when I found the ideal trailer, it happened to have a Formula Continental race car on it. The owner told me he’d sell me the trailer but I’d have to take the car with it.
So how did race car driving prepare you to run such a prestigious apparel company? There are numerous aspects of racing that can be directly applied to business. Anything that tunes your mind, your body or your spirit will help you focus and prepare, whether it’s for racing, designing, marketing or selling a clothing collection. Racing keeps you sharp by making you aware of your competition, thereby helping you adapt quickly to
unexpected situations. Flexibility, focus, drive: all are attributes of success. Another is persistence. It’s easy to get discouraged in motor racing; things go wrong mechanically, or you make a mistake and crash, or somebody else makes a mistake and runs you off the track. It‘s easy to say “I’ve had enough.” There are many parallels in life: if you break it all down and understand the emotions that motivate you, then you can persevere in other situations. It’s a constant learning experience that makes you a better business manager. Anybody who’s been around racing knows it’s the support team that’s most critical to success. The car must be mechanically sound so the driver feels safe in it; the communication from driver to crew must be perfectly clear in order to optimize the effort. If you trust the race car and have figured out all the variables, the car will do exactly what you ask it to do. But if you ask it to do 1/10th more, the consequences are pretty severe. Similarly, anybody in management knows that the leader is only as good as the least experienced person in the company. The employees have trust in you and you have trust in them; you try to lead from the front. If you inspire them and clearly communicate how their roles fit into the overall vision of the company, if you provide them with an avenue for both personal and professional growth, then you’re likely to achieve your goals. When people attend a race, they often want to go to the pits to see how things work; afterwards, they realize that it’s one thing to sit in the stands and feel the excitement, but the real drama happens with the preparation of the car. Every team member must do their job perfectly before the driver climbs into the cockpit. And it’s the same in business: every person must perform exceptionally in order for the company to win.
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grooming
BARBERSHOP WISDOM AMERICA’S MASTER STYLISTS ON THIS SEASON’S TRENDS. BY STEPHEN GARNER
Any man who has ever had a proper haircut or shave after visiting a barber invariably leaves the shop a little savvier than before. Barbers not only cut hair and maintain beards, they also impart wisdom to those men smart enough to listen. We spoke to a few style gurus from around the country about what’s happening in their shops and about how to best update your look.
GO NATURAL. One consistent tip we heard from all the barbers we interviewed was to loosen up on the styling. Rob McMillen of the original Blind Barber location in Manhattan’s East Village says, “In past seasons we have seen a shorter, more technical look; guys are now experimenting by keeping things a little loose and deconstructed.” Joe Caccavella Jr. of Joe’s Barbershop in Chicago agrees: “Looser and more natural cuts are the majority of what we see here in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood.” It seems men are now striving for a perfect balance between refined and relaxed.
BUY A BLOW-DRYER. “The benefits of
From top: Baxter Finley, Blind Barber, Barber of Hell’s Bottom, Fellow Barber
blow-drying are underappreciated by men today,” says West Hollywood master barber Christopher James of Baxter Finley. “Men with thinning hair can make their hair appear thicker, you can create volume that lasts throughout the day, and you can control problem areas like cowlicks and whorls.” Nothing sets a style like a blast of heat before adding product.
DON’T BE AFRAID OF PRODUCT. If your dad’s styling regimen began and
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ended with a comb, you might not know where to start in the world of waxes, pomades and creams. Ask your barber for a recommendation. He can guide you to the one that will help you achieve the right look for your cut. Monty Howard of Knoxville’s Frank’s Barbershop says, “You never know what your hair is capable of until you try. Styling your hair without adding the right finishing product would be like mowing the lawn without doing the trim or raking away the cut grass.”
CONTROL YOUR BEARD. It seems as if every other guy you see walking down the street these days is sporting some kind of facial hair, and the jury is still out on this sudden surge. “Guys are enjoying testing out how long they can grow their beards now, and as long as the look works for you, I say go for it,” says Richie Pearce of the Brooklyn outpost of Fellow Barber. Still, should you keep that beard for fall? Go ahead; just make sure to maintain it. As Mike Charland of D.C.’s Barber of Hell’s Bottom points out: “Just because one has a beard doesn't mean it needs to be as long as the guys’ from ZZ Top. Whatever the length, keep it clean and manicured.” THE TAKEAWAY. Loosen up your styling for a fresher feel. Rock that beard, but have it shaped up every few weeks and keep it clean and smelling fresh. Don't be ashamed to grab a blow-dryer and some products to help create a hairstyle that expresses your individuality. And lastly, trust your barber's professional opinion-—and tip him well!
Now fashionable in nine cities
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shopping
HOW TO GET THE RELATIONSHIP YOU WANT WE CAN’T HELP YOU WITH LOVE OR MARRIAGE, BUT WE CAN CERTAINLY IMPROVE AN EQUALLY ESSENTIAL RELATIONSHIP: THE ONE BETWEEN YOU AND YOUR CLOTHING SALESPERSON! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Consider this: There’s probably just one person in the universe who truly wants you to look fabulous all the time. Yes, he also wants to sell you stuff, but he knows that if you don’t look and feel terrific in your purchase, you’re less likely to come back to the store or give referrals. This person, if inspired, can make your life easier and more fulfilling. Hard to believe? Then you haven’t maximized your relationship with your primary sales associate. Here, a few tips to get you started. • First and foremost: If you don’t have a preferred sales associate, find one. It’s as simple as walking around the selling floor and approaching an associate whose style you admire, someone you can relate to and feel comfortable with. (The other option is to ask the store owner and let him make the match.) • Make an in-store appointment with this person. Your time is valuable and there’s no need to start from scratch each time you need something. Then let him know how you prefer to communicate—phone, email, text, etc.—and how often. • Over-communicate with your sales associate at the beginning, providing as much information as possible about your life, job, fashion preferences, favorite brands, comfort level for experimentation and favorite
• If you’re comfortable with it, indulge in a closet consultation where your sales associate comes to your home and goes through your wardrobe. The goal is to give away clothing that no longer works (your college sweatshirt and Landlubber jeans, those DB suits
• Be open to trying new things. We all get stuck in fashion ruts and have trouble envisioning ourselves in a new look. But trust us: a small change can make all the difference! Even a minor adjustment (a different collar spread, a new color tie or sweater, slimmer-fit trousers, cool shoes) can greatly modernize your appearance.
with huge padded shoulders) and to fill in with a few new items to
• Don’t forget to share your wedding anniversary and spouse’s birth-
ultimately update your image. You’ll be amazed at how liberating it
day: your sales associate can make you a hero at least twice a year!
feels to clear the clutter!
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IMAGE COURTESY OF RODES
items (around which to build a future wardrobe).
unbridled style Head to Toe Happiness 3938 Dutchmans Lane | p: (502) 897 5369 | josephssalon.com |
/josephssalon
COPPÉLIA Oct. 2-3, 2015
Choreography by Val Caniparoli
Dec. 12-20, 2015
spirits
WHISKEY STOCKS
BOURBON GAINS IN COLLECTIBILITY. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON tim of an organized crime syndicate stealing bourbon from the big distilleries for almost a decade before they were busted in a sting operation earlier this year. Deciding which bourbons have "legs" is something of a minefield. As with watches and baseball cards, just because something says it's "limited" or "rare" doesn't make it so. The older the bourbon is (most are released after around four years of barrel aging), such as Eagle Rare 17-Year ($350 to $600), the more it is likely to cost and the harder to find—but not always. Small "historic" collections from defunct distilleries also attract collector interest: William Larue Weller ($400 to $1,100) is part of Buffalo Trace's coveted Antique Collection, while Diageo has released the multi-expression Orphan Barrel series ($250 to $400). Even so-called "sourced" or NDP brands—aged bourbon purchased by a non-distiller and re-bottled—can generate interest if there's enough heritage and quality,. For example, there’s Angel's Envy Cask Strength Port Wine Barrel Finish ($400 to $500). However, re-selling bourbon isn't as easy as Scotch, thanks to postProhibition laws and fewer auction houses handling spirits in the U.S. than in the U.K. In the end, as with wine, a bourbon collection is probably the most "profitable" when shared among close friends.
During the most recent recession, the concept of “investment grade" single-malt whiskey became a viable financial alternative to plummeting art and stock valuations. Between 2008 and 2014, the top 100 single malts delivered an average return of 440 percent. While bourbon has not yet reached the meteoric levels of a Hanyu Ichiro Malt ($11,000 at auction) or a Macallan M ($650,000 at auction), the resurgence and massive expansion of America’s official whiskey over the past decade means one should at least consider the investment potential. "Some of these bottles are really going for a lot of money," says Jim Rutledge, master distiller for Four Roses bourbon. The company produces two annual limited-edition releases: a Single Barrel highlighting one of 10 secret "recipes" the company blends into its main bourbons, and a Small Batch incorporating varying combinations of its recipes (usually two to four of them) aged nine to 13 years. "I've heard that, sometimes the day after release of the Small Batch, people are seeing it selling on the internet for up to five times the original price." In the 21st century, Four Roses has emerged a bourbon lover's bourbon, although it is still reasonably priced (the Small Batch retails for around $150). In contrast, Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 23-year—the most popular collectors' bourbon right now—can sell at the liquor store for ten times that amount. "Pappy" is so popular that it was the vic-
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DRESSING UP THE WEEKEND WARDROBE
“He needs your help,” Daniel’s wife implored. “He’s got nothing to wear.” As a personal stylist I’d heard this before, but in Daniel’s case something didn’t add up. I’d met him before and he was always impeccably dressed. When I arrived at his apartment for the wardrobe edit, his closet was just as I’d expected: meticulously organized, full of custom suits, shirts and polished dress shoes. “Where’s the rest?” I inquired, and was directed to a drawer with a lonely pair of baggy jeans a few scraggly T-shirts. It turned out that this man, like many guys, was put together at all times for his colleagues and business associates, but was a “weekend slob” when it came time to be with his beautiful wife and child. “What do you wear on date night?” I asked. He shrugged. “I just throw on jeans with my dress shirt from the office.” “And on Saturday if you go out for brunch?” He pulled out a wrinkled, faded T-shirt and old college sweatshirt. “Shoes?” I asked. He pointed to the sneakers he wears to the gym. Ironically, it was his colleagues, friends and strangers on the subway who had the pleasure of experiencing Dapper Daniel. His wife—the person who vowed to look at him day in and day out for the rest of her life—was the one who got the sloppy leftovers, and she was clearly disappointed that he wasn’t making an effort. The problem was simple; when it came to buying casual clothes, Daniel didn’t know where to
start. He would walk into a large department store, feel overwhelmed by what can be a poorly organized selection and walk back out the door. To start, we shopped for slim-fitting, dark jeans that were dressy enough for dinner but comfortable enough to wear while sitting on the floor to play with his little boy. We also found some great five-pocket twill pants to wear as a denim alternative. We bought sport shirts so that he never had to be reminded of his days FASHION at the office while out with friends FAUX PAS His crime: on the weekend, a vest to layer on sacrificing style on the weekend. chilly Saturday mornings when he walked the dog and picked up coffee, and a so-soft sportcoat that was just as comfortable as that old college sweatshirt. Some streamlined leather sneakers we picked up (his wife’s favorite new addition) means Daniel can stop committing the biggest weekend wear faux pas of all: wearing gym sneakers with his jeans! One thing I’ve learned while working as a personal stylist is that most guys want to look good, but often feel insecure when it comes to selecting clothes and dressing well. Yet, as soon as they have a few new outfits in their closet that fit them well, are on trend for the season and are easy to put together, they often experience a huge surge of personal confidence. If you’re the kind of guy who shies away from shopping, reach out to someone who specializes in this field. You don’t need to hire a personal stylist: a good sales associate will know how to fit and flatter you by asking a few lifestyle questions and looking at your body type and skin tone. Before you go shopping, make a list of items that will complete your closet. Your sales associate can do this if you opt for a home visit. Let the pros help cure you of your weekend wardrobe woes. Your wife will be forever grateful.
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INSIGHT FROM A STYLIST. BY NICOLA HARRISON RUIZ
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