Fall 2010 Rodes Fashion Forum Magazine by Rodes

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2010

R od e s MEN ON THE GO! MAXIMIZE

YOUR WARDROBE OPTIONS WHY SHOP LOCAL? DESIGNER DIRECTIONS

A N E N D U R I N G PAS S I O N F O R FAB R I C A N D I N N OVAT I O N S I N C E 1910

e are blessed to visit with many of you throughout the year and swap great stories about life, family, business and the world. We, like many of you, live the headlines day-to-day. Well without any disrespect to world issues, the Rodes Family of employees continues to have fun. As with any extended family, we have times of togetherness and harmony as well as moments of triumph, disappointment, health and illness. We are a large family with diverse backgrounds... there are times we are even a bit dysfunctional! We have voted, and the group decided to put “fun” back into dysfunctional! As a symbolic gesture of having fun, we permanently set the display clock on the selling floor to 5:00 PM—Happy Hour! Come by anytime and visit, and let us make you happy. Your presence certainly boosts our spirits, and we should all spend more time enjoying the roller coaster ride called life. So take a break, treat yourself and stop by to say hello. You will have fun and you may be surprised how good you’ll feel. Remember, it’s always 5 o’clock at Rodes!

welcome

“IT’S ALWAYS 5 O’CLOCK AT RODES.”

Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) 1-800-866-3112 www.rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

FEATURES 1 5 26 28 34 44

Welcome Letter Rodes Happenings The Commissions Myth Italian Week at Rodes Events Dress: Nirvana Through Clothing

FASHION 13 36 38 40 48 56

Rodes Fashion Profile: Eton Clothing: Tailored to Perfection Furnishings: Haute Under the Collar Men on the Go! Get More Bang for Your Buck

DEPARTMENTS 32 62 66 68 72 74 76

Ask Forum CEO Style: Maximilian Riedel Spirits: Drinkology World Scene Cooking: A Recipe for Romance Sports Style: Art Rooney End Page: In the Jeans

Hugh K. Stanton BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2010. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 13, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.

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Rodes Happenings

Rodes For Him and For Her hosts and participates in events both inside and outside our store. Here is a look at some of our trunk shows, benefits and fashion outings from last season.

Rodes Happenings

On April 15th, nearly 250 “girlfriends” enjoyed the annual Derby Divas fundraiser hosted by Rodes. WAVETV’s Jackie Hays emceed the event and $85,000 was raised to benefit the Norton Cancer Institute. Thank you to everyone involved.

Rodes Happenings

The Rodes family of employees gathered to celebrate another year of retail and enjoyed dinner at 211 Clover Lane. The setting and food were excellent and, as you can see, fun was had by all! Cheers!

Rodes Happenings

Rodes’ Customer Appreciation Day is held annually on the first Saturday in December. This day is set aside to say “thank you” to you, our loyal friends. Mark your calendars for Saturday, December 4th, 2010 and join the real Santa Claus for kids of all ages!

Rodes Happenings Rodes For Him recently held its semi-annual All-American Casual Saturday. We all enjoyed BBQ & brew as we celebrated quality sportswear made in the U.S.A. Representatives from around the nation were on hand to assist. Specialty drinks were provided by Brown-Forman.

“2 0 0 8 B e s t N ew Re stau ran t by Esq u i re M a ga zine” 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd. (502) 327-5058

Louisville, KY

c orb ettsre stau ran t. c o m

FALL FASHION PREVIEW

canali suit eton shirt ferragamo tie

armani collezioni

collection iris dress

samuelsohn suit robert talbott estate shirt robert talbott 7-fold tie

st. john collection

weill collection

etro collection

schneiders outerwear zanella trousers

faรงonnable collection

isaia collection

kinross cashmere christine moore hats

kinross cashmere wrap cookie johnson jeans craig taylor blouse

robert talbott shirt, tie, sweater and vest agave jeans

robert graham collection

nanette lepore

canali sportcoat and trousers eton shirt

our specialists

“BY ELIMINATING COMMISSIONS AND CREATING A TEAM APPROACH YOU GET TO WORK WITH A VARIETY OF PROFESSIONALS EACH OF WHOM ARE SPECIALISTS IN DIFFERENT AREAS.”

THE COMMISSIONS MYTH One of the most common misconceptions about our store

The metaphor that comes to mind is the discomfort peo-

is that our sales associates work on commission. In reality,

ple feel when changing hairdressers within a salon. We

we eliminated commissions at Rodes For Her two years ago

don’t want you to ever feel that way in our store. Our profes-

when She of Louisville became part of the Rodes Family,

sionals have different strengths and different styles. Please

and at Rodes For Him in 2010. We did this in an effort to

work with them and get to know them all!

make shopping at Rodes an even more relaxed and friendly experience. You are free to work with your tried and true associate or

We are always striving to make improvements in our store. Our professionals have happily embraced this new team approach, which makes the experience more pleasant

with anyone you choose, without ever feeling like you have

for them as well. Realizing we never formally announced

to wait for help or offend someone if you “float around.”

this change in any way, we thought you, our friends and cus-

Also, you get the benefit of working with a team of professionals, all of whom have different areas of expertise—be it a shoe expert, St. John expert or a ready-to-wear expert— and so on.

tomers, would like to know! We look forward to seeing you soon.

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special events

ITALIAN WEEK AT RODES SEPTEMBER 20—25, 2010

here’s something about Italian style that turns

has to offer, including irresistible Italian apparel, exquisite Italian

heads and wins hearts… especially fine tailored clothing

wine, light cuisine and the music of Italy. Go to rodes.com for all

and luxurious sportswear made in Italy.

the details.

Rodes For Him & For Her and the Italian Trade

Comission invite you to a week of Italian luxury September 20-25. We are celebrating the finest Italy

Presented by…

AT HART SCHAFFNER MARX

WE BELIEVE IN MEN WITH VALUES, INTEGRITY AND HONOR. A N A M E R I C A N T R A D I T I O N O F F I N E TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G S I N C E 1 8 8 7

ASKFORUM Q:

ZEGNA

I haven’t shopped in a few seasons and my old clothes are looking dated. How do I start rebuilding my wardrobe?

We’ve broken it down into eleven essentials, in order of importance. Essential #1: The perfect blazer or unconstructed sportcoat. This is a must for travel (when pockets are critical) and can be dressed up for work (add a cool tie or pocket square) or down to wear with jeans (add an open-collar shirt, knit top or T-shirt). If you’re buying just one, go with a solid color or a very subtle pattern. Essential #2: The dark dressy suit. Come into the store and we’ll help you find one that works for both your build and your budget. You’ll notice that the newer suit styles are more fitted—but also more comfortable—than the suits in your closet. The secret is both the fabric and the construction; try one on and we promise you’ll be happy. Essential #3: Perfect-fitting flat-front pants in lightweight wool, corduroy or cotton. Don’t be afraid of color, especially in casual five-pocket models. Essential #4: Great jeans! These should be slim but not tight in a dark washed denim. If you’re buying just one pair, skip the rips and abrasions in favor of a more classic style that will take you anywhere. Essential #5: A great pair of casual shoes or boots. (Remember that women always notice shoes first!) Essential #6: Dress shoes: either brown leather or chocolate suede. Brown shoes go with everything except a tuxedo and actually complement gray and navy suits better than black shoes. Essential #7: A sumptuous cashmere sweater in your favorite color. Try matching your eyes or ask a woman what looks best on you. Essential #8: Some new shirts and ties. Both are slimmer than they used to be: tie widths have narrowed from three and three quarter inches to three and a half (or less); shirts are no longer loose or tent-like. Add color and pattern to brighten your outlook! Essential #9: Two belts: one for suits, one to wear with jeans. Essential #10: An oblong scarf that can be doubled with the ends pulled through the loop for a very European look, indoors or out. Essential #11: Statement accessories like a great leather bag, distinctive eyewear and cool (non-serious) socks. Remember: it’s the little things that make the big impressions. And also remember our favorite quote from Hardy Amies: “A man should look like he’s chosen his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.”

Samuelsohn Day Italian Week - a celebration of Italy Canali Trunk Show featuring Fall 2010 ISAIA, Luciano Barbera & Gravati Showing Ermengildo Zegna Fall Showing Starfire Jewelry & Lourdes Chavez Show Schneiders Austrian Outerwear Show Zenobia Spring Showing Orlanda Olsen Fine Jewelry Show Erno Laslo Mask Event (by Appointment) St. John Spring 2011 Trunk Show Gilda’s Night at Bittners Algo Spring 2011 Trunk Show Holiday Shopping Day (with the real Santa) Cindy Borders Jewelry Show David Goodman Couture Outerwear Show Lafayette 148 New York Spring Show

These are but a few of the events on our schedule. Check our Events page at www.rodes.com for updates.

rodes gives back through fundraisers and events

This year, we celebrate the sixth anniversary of the Gilda’s Night event, which will be held at Bittners on November 12th. This event is more important to us than ever since we lost two of our inspirational leaders, Pat Schilling and Lawrence Smith, to cancer this year. Pat began this fundraiser many years ago, joined the Gilda’s Club board of directors in 2008, and was honored at the fifth annual Gilda’s Night (hosted by Rodes) last November.

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events 9/9 9/20 - 9/25 9/22 9/23 9/24 & 9/25 9/30 - 10/2 10/15 & 10/16 10/19 & 10/20 10/20 - 10/23 10/27 10/28 11/12 11/18 & 11/19 12/4 12/4 12/3 & 12/4 1/11 - 1/13/11

mark your calendar for these upcoming events at rodes

profile

KILLER SHIRTS WARNING: ETON SHIRTS CAN BE HIGHLY ADDICTIVE. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

here’s no question that a fabulous shirt can make or break the outfit. And while there’s no shortage of fabulous shirts in the men’s market these days, few are as remarkable as Eton, an 82-year-old Swedish company that uses 45 components and 49 steps to construct each of its very special garments. “Innovation means throwing caution to the wind,” asserts Eton’s creative director Sebastian Dollinger, whose inspiration comes from music, movies and books. “We don’t follow fashion trends, we create our own using the world’s longest staple cotton, the best mills in France and Italy, and the most advanced finishing techniques in Switzerland (which adds 35 steps to the process but is essential for durability, sustainability and luster.)” All shirts are produced in Eton’s own factories in Sweden. Adds U.S. sales director Erik Wilkinson, “We spin and weave everything on two-ply: The weaving is a high torsion method and the finishing takes more than three weeks using an organic (not ammonia-based) wash. The process makes the cloth more resilient with a softer hand and better performance. Plus we top-fuse the collars and cuffs so the shirts stay very clean and crisp.” While the technical details are impressive, more impressive is the fit. Whether classic, contemporary or slim, these shirts are individually graded top to bottom so the collar size is in proportion to all other dimensions (sleeve width, body width, shoulders). Other details include double button cuffs to accommodate oversized watches (also convertible to French cuffs); high resin, ergonomic mother-of-pearl buttons; and signature red ribbon trim. Most important: Eton’s colors and patterns are exclusive, expressive and always exceptional. Wilkinson points out that fresh product is shipped ten times a year rather than just two, so there’s always new excitement in the store. So check out our latest shirts from Eton: You will be amazed at how great you’ll look.

clothing

TAILORED TO PERFECTION

KNOWING HOW WELL YOUR SUIT IS MADE IS AS SIMPLE AS KNOWING WHAT TO LOOK FOR. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

o celebrate its centennial year, Ermenegildo Zegna suits this fall are cut with a soft, slightly-roped shoulder to complement the jacket’s nipped-in waist and trimmer lapel, a look that characterized the suits of the brand’s namesake and founder back in 1910. Brioni is also offering a new shape, called the Senato, which is cut longer and leaner than the classic silhouette for which the suit maker is known. Meanwhile, the gentleman who likes Kiton’s sculpted Neapolitan clothing will appreciate the seemingly unconstructed shoul-

ders and natural chest line found in its newest two-button models. Every suit maker from Armani to Zegna has its own sartorial point of view this season. However, the subtle tailoring nuances that make one suit better than another are not quite as easy to discern. Nothing says you’re ready to do business like a suit. And if you’ve bought one in the last decade, you know that shoulder pads come and go, lapels vary from narrow to wide, and vents change from center to side and back again, seemingly on the whim of some designer’s mood. While such

stylistic details can alert you to the latest trends, they have little to do with how well a suit is made. Like the plumbing and electrical components camouflaged behind the drywall in your home, much of a suit’s construction is concealed behind beautiful interior Bemberg silk linings. Opening the seams to see what’s inside is simply not an option and, thankfully, not really necessary. That’s because many of the hallmarks of fine suit making are visible right there on the surface. That is, if you know where to look. The easiest way to recognize the

• Hand-stitched horsehair canvas linings (not fused or glued canvas) inside the chest and waist help retain the jacket’s shape. Pinch the jacket at the bottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining and the floating canvas inner lining—it’s the real deal. • A little extra fabric on the trouser inseams and interior seat, as well as a split waistband, make the garment easier to alter. • Interior sleeves that are hand stitched to the shoulders allow for complete ease of movement. • A boutonniere stay under the lapel is a useful detail found only in the finest suits. • Buttons inside trouser cuffs make it easier to “get the lint out.” • Hand pick-stitched lapels. Look for slightly uneven stitching as the hallmark of human hands. • Interior pockets sewn into the actual jacket fabric, not the lining, retain the jacket’s clean aesthetic. • A knot threaded between the button and the jacket makes fastening easier. Sometimes all it takes to recognize quality is a quick peek at the label. Prestige brands often operate their own factories and closely oversee production. By comparison, many designers or no-name suit makers rely on their well-known names or a too-good-to-believe price tag. There are plenty of exceptions, so ask your salesperson to be sure. 39

KITON

CORNELIANI

TELLTALE SIGNS OF QUALITY INCLUDE:

CORNELIANI

quality of a suit is by touching the fabric used to make it. To paraphrase Anna Zegna, a scion of the prestigious Italian clothing brand launched a century ago by her grandfather, only the finest fabrics with the softest hand are used to produce high quality suits. The finer the cloth, the better the material drapes and retains the shape of the garment. Typically the rarest fabrics, including fine micron wool, silk, cashmere and vicuña, can cost hundreds, even thousands, of dollars a yard and are therefore reserved for only the world’s premier suit makers who understand how to tailor them into wearable works of art. As you might expect, the cost of a suit is comparable to the fabric used to make it, so in one sense it’s possible to judge quality based on price. But it’s much more than that. “I always suggest putting on the jacket to immediately see the difference,” says Kiton chief executive Antonio de Matteis, who often refers to the brand’s signature suits as conforme al corpo, or second skins, because they are constructed as close to the body as technically possible. Closely following the lines of the body is considered a mark of quality because such precision fit can only be achieved by a highly skilled tailor. If done properly, the formfitting silhouette should feel surprisingly more comfortable, and look more elegant, than suit jackets extolling a roomier fit. “A very chic suit is the one that nobody notices from a far distance but it’s easy to tell that it’s beautiful and well-made when you see it close up,” adds de Matteis. Perfection begins “the moment the human hand takes the place of the machine,” he concludes.

HAUTE UNDER THE COLLAR The proper collar and knot can greatly improve your look. By William Kissel

Shirt makers often brag about the thread count of their fine cotton fabrics, the single-needle stitching at the seams, the split-shouldered yokes, even the distinctive crow’s foot stitching used to fasten the mother-of-pearl buttons. But before you get bogged down by myriad styling, color and pattern options, make sure that your shirt collar and tie knot are the proper match for your face. “Think of your face as a portrait and your shirt collar as its frame,” offers menswear designer and author Alan Flusser, who approached the subject of proper shirt selection in his book Style and the Man. “The collar’s height on your neck as well as the length and spread of its points should complement the shape and size of your face,” he explains, noting that most men look their best when they understand which collars enhance their features. It doesn’t require a degree in shirt science to comprehend the principles of picking the proper collar. Think of your collar and necktie as a counterbalance to the dimensions of

JEFFREY APOIAN

furnishings

MOST MEN LOOK THEIR BEST WHEN THEY UNDERSTAND WHICH COLLARS ENHANCE THEIR FEATURES.

your face and thickness of your neck. A long and narrow face, for instance, will look fuller peeking out of a high-collared shirt with a mod-

erate spread collar and fuller tie knot, such as a Windsor, Shelby or half-Windsor. In contrast, a broad face and thick neck can be made to

look leaner and longer simply by sporting a medium collar shirt and thinner knot, especially when both rest just below the collarbone.

These simple rules will help guide you to sartorial success: Spread or Cutaway Spread collar shirts (and the slightly shorter, wider cutaway collar for more formal occasions) are designed to be worn with neckwear featuring a full or half-Windsor knot, a relatively wide knot once favored by (and named for) Edward VIII, the late Duke of Windsor. Designed to complement a long, narrow face, these collars are being featured as a fashion trend this season, often shown with skinny ties.

Straight or Long-Point Among the oldest and most universally accepted, the exaggerated straight-point collar, sometimes called a long-point, is generally three inches or longer and most effective at making a round, broad, or oval-shaped face appear more angular. Ideal for heavyset or athletic men in need of a slight slimming effect (or soft-chinned men craving a strong line under the jaw), this versatile collar can have a similar elongating effect on men with a shorter stance. Because of the narrow opening between the collar points, a classic four-inhand neckwear knot with its flattering conical form achieves the perfect balance.

Tab or Pinned More casual than a classic straight-point collar, the tab or pin-collared shirt is primarily intended for use with a blazer or sport coat. Its distinctive feature is a buttoning bridge between the two wingsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;or eyelets on the wings used with a tie barâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;to form a snug fit around a small, neat, four-in-hand knot. Because the bridge forces the collar higher up and the knot outward on the neck, this is an ideal combination for those looking to camouflage a long neck.

Button-down Originally worn by 19th century English polo players to keep their shirt collars from flapping during play, button-down collared shirts became an Ivy League tradition after they were adopted in the early 1900s by the late John Brooks of Brooks Brothers. A sporty alternative to the straight-point, the button-down (worn buttoned or unbuttoned depending on the degree of casualness) is best suited to a patterned four-in-hand knotted necktie. New button-down collars are larger with a slight roll.

LAFAYETTE148.COM

dress

ACCORDING TO MY GRANDFATHER, OUR CHOICE OF CLOTHING IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISIONS WE MAKE EACH DAY.

NIRVANA THROUGH CLOTHING

Get ready to transform your life. By Vivek Nagrani

uring his time, my grandfather built a successful retail business. Every summer, I’d spend days at his stores, working the floor, watching customers and learning the meaning of luxury. According to my grandfather, our choice of clothing is one of the most important decisions we make each day. In a world of turmoil, this might sound superficial, but think about it: Whenever you step out of your house, what you wear and how you wear it sends a message to those you encounter. What’s more, the way you look is directly correlated to the way you feel. If your wardrobe makes you feel great, you walk the walk. Much like an athlete’s uniform, your choice of clothing sets the mood, creates the attitude. When you’re in the zone, everyone you interact with feels that energy and reacts to it. Clothing is far more than fabric to cover the body. It’s a way you express a sense of style to the world, creating a unique state of mind.

Every piece of clothing you own should enhance your lifestyle. Each article should work to create multiple looks and bring variation when combined with the rest of your wardrobe. his fall, I encourage you to seek Nirvana by applying a few small changes to your wardrobe—and your attitude. If you peer through your closet and find yourself bored or uninspired, choose change. When you start to enjoy what you wear, you start to feel better. If clothing serves merely a utilitarian purpose, you have missed out on a very enjoyable part of life. Would a gentleman drink an inferior wine just because it is on the table? As in all areas of life, one should savor each experience, including something as simple as putting on underwear or socks. That said, here are a few thoughts on how you can enhance your life by adjusting your wardrobe. Starting from the top: the jacket. Soft coats are essential to the man on the move. When I say soft coat, I am referring to a less constructed coat that has a natural, soft shoulder. The fit is tailored, and the look is flattering for all body types. Unless your health club requires you to work out in your jacket, you don’t need to size up. (My recommendation this season: a soft cashmere sportcoat that goes with anything.) Next, the shirt. Gone are the days of the man-blouse, that billowy flow of fabric hanging out of your trousers. For men on the husky side, fitted shirts make you appear leaner and more put together. For the trim guy, the slimmer shirt highlights your sexy shape. Let’s talk trousers. For me, any-

thing more than a single pleat is unnecessary unless you are a member of the Russian dead lifting team. Your chinos are great, and I’m sure you’ve had great times in them, but it’s time to refine that look. The fivepocket trouser is an ideal choice for both casual and dress. Choose soft fabrics like corduroy, cotton twill or brushed cotton. Combined with a soft coat, you have many more options than with denim or chino. And the look is modern and elegant. The belt can make or break your whole look. When selected correctly, a belt can slim the waist as well as finish or enhance an outfit. Different trousers require different belts. A

belt you wear with a suit will look ridiculous when worn with denim. An easy rule to remember: the belt should fill the belt loop. For denim, try something playful, interesting and different. For dress, try skins with unique textures. In general, your belt should match your shoe, but rules can be broken, especially with denim. A woman can size up any man just by looking at his shoes. Move away from black this season in favor of brown or cordovan to take your entire wardrobe to the next level. For fall, try a half boot to change the drape of your trouser. Loafers are great with more casual looks, but if

BELIEVE IT OR NOT, EVEN GREAT SOCKS CAN CHANGE YOUR MOOD, PUT A SMILE ON YOUR FACE AND GET THE WOMAN ACROSS THE ROOM TO COME BY AND SAY HELLO. you’re wearing a suit, go with a laceup or monk strap. As with anything in life, the difference is in the details. Believe it or not, even great socks can change your mood, put a smile on your face and get the woman across the room to come by and say hello. Above all, shop with enthusiasm. Enjoy each item you purchase, savor the experience and have fun with your clothes. It’s all a part of celebrating life. Vivek Nagrani is a well-dressed menswear designer who knows how to celebrate life. You can find his smile-inducing socks in our store.

fashion

MEN ON Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

MERCEDES-BENZ 2011 E350 CABRIOLET IN PALLADIUM SILVER

THE GO!

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. TRAVEL IN STYLE!

4 FORUM

VESPA(R) IMAGE COURTESY OF PIAGGIO GROUP AMERICAS, INC. (C) THE PIAGGIO GROUP OF COMPANIES 2010

5 FORUM

6 FORUM

THE ROADSTER BY TESLA MOTORS

7 FORUM

8 FORUM SEVEN CYCLES CAFÉ RACER S DESIGNED, HAND MADE AND PAINTED IN WATERTOWN, MA; AVAILABLE THROUGH SIGNATURE CYCLES NYC

HAIR AND MAKE UP: SYDNEY JAMILLA; MODELS: SHAUN MICHAELSON / Q MODELS, TR PESCOD / CLICK MODELS, AKSANA SAMUYLOVA / FORD MODELS; ASSISTANTS: TARA FERRI, AVERILL ROBERTO, JULIO FRIAS; TAILOR: JULIO FRIAS

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fashion

12 ways to maximize your wardrobe

GETMORE BANG! FOR YOUR BUCK Photographed by JEFFREY APOIAN Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

THE SUIT

CAN’T GO WRONG WITH CLASSIC COLOR, CURRENT CUT

RELAX: WEAR THE SUIT JACKET WITH ANALL OPENDRESSED COLAR UP

IMPRESS: WEAR AN ASCOT AND

JEANS BUSINESS CASUAL

FLAT-FRONT PANTS ARE MODERN AND SLIMMING

YOUNG & HIP: MIX IT UP WITH A VEST AND BOWTIE. NIGHT OUT

A SUIT JACKET DOES DOUBLE DUTY WORN WITH DARK JEANS

ALL BUSINESS: A GREAT TIE & POCKET SQUARERELAXED IS ALWAYS RIGHT. ELEGANCE

ADD A GREAT VEST AND DRESS SHIRT

fashion

ON THE GO

THIS FUNCTIONAL BLAZER HELPS YOU TRAVEL IN STYLE

SPORTY CHIC

COOL AND COMFORTABLE OVER CASHMERE

PREPPY STYLE

ADD A CABLE KNIT AND A VIBRANT POCKET SQUARE

BUTTONED UP

THE SPORTCOAT GOES DRESSY IN A TAILORED LOOK

4 ways to wear

THE TRAVELER SPORTCOAT

THE SYSTEMS JACKET

G R O O M E R : M A R K L E Y L A N D ; M O D E L S : S I M O N W H E E L D O N / D N A M O D E L S , WA D E P O N I C / M A J O R M O D E L S ; A S S I S TA N T S : TA R A F E R R I , AV E R I L L R O B E RTO , J U L I O F R I A S ; TA I L O R : J U L I O F R I A S

4 ways to wear

fashion

WEEKEND COMFORT

PAIR THE OUTER SHELL WITH A SOFT BUT CHIC HOODIE

INNER BEAUTY

THE LIGHTWEIGHT INNER SHELL WORKS WITH ANY OUTFIT

KEEPING WARM

LAYER WITH A FITTED SPORT SHIRT AND CARDIGAN

DRESS IT UP

THE JACKET STEPS UP ITS STYLE OVER A SPORTCOAT

CEO style

“PEOPLE WHO HAVE AN EYE FOR [STYLE] ARE LIKELY PEOPLE WHO RUN DETAIL-ORIENTED BUSINESSES.”

GLASS HOUSE

Riedel scion and CEO Maximilian Riedel loves hard work and high fashion. By Robert Haynes Peterson At 33, Maximilian Riedel, CEO of Riedel Crystal of North America, a division of Riedel Glas Austria, is in an enviable position: young enough to drive the motorcycles and Ferraris he collects, old enough to know that his good fortune comes down through 11 generations of hard-working craftsmen. Riedel coowns the iconic glassware company with his father Georg, which in the past decade has come to dominate the wine and spirits glassware market, particularly in the realm of glasses designed for specific wines, now a $330 million-per-year business. While recent essays in

Gourmet and Wine Spectator have challenged the Riedel-supported notion that unique glass shapes (or prices) actually enhance specific wines and their impact on the tongue, there is no doubt that the glassware is beautiful, and a restaurant table set with three or four distinctively contoured wine glasses is

IMAGE COURTESY RIEDEL CRYSTAL OF NORTH AMERICA

“Since I produce handmade products myself, I enjoy quality, handmade clothing.”

A heritage of Swedish design and innovation since 1928

certain to impress increasingly discerning customers. Maximilian Riedel—who delivers his homilies with both an Austrian austerity and an American sense of humor—is also a passionate watch collector, loves his tailored clothing and handmade shoes, and appreciates it all from the perspective of a self-proclaimed micromanager who helps craft his own fine product. We caught up with Riedel as he was announcing the winner of this year’s Nachtmann Design prize at the Pratt Institute in New York.

How did you get to your current role in the family business? My sister and I grew up in Austria, with our parents both working. When I was 11, we were sent to Canada for summer camp. It taught me independence and a second language. At 12, my father told me, “If you’re not interested in school, you should think about getting a job.” I took an internship in the glass factory and learned my lesson: I wanted to stay in school. I began working officially for the company in 1997, while attending business school. I had the option to move to the U.S. (which was a small operation for us 10 years ago), or Japan. I chose the U.S., where anything is possible, and I saw potential. At the time our company was based in Long Island, which I felt was not the right location. We decided to move to Manhattan. We also saw how the restaurant environment was growing, so we launched a restaurant product range. The business has grown substantially and the U.S. is now our number-one market. I was appointed CEO in 2004.

You and your father co-own the business, and seem to be very hands-on. My father is one of those co-workers you can trust and rely on. We have about 2,000 employees worldwide, but we’re involved in every big decision-making process in every market. My father is spending a lot of time in India right now, because we are launching independent daughter companies in China and India in the next couple of years.

A micromanaging family might be challenging for some employees, no? I think it is a challenge for the upper management. They do need to understand this is a family business, which not everyone is made for. On the plus side, you get a decision from us within 24 hours. We jump on opportunities right away—there’s no committee or board that needs to deliberate. Of course, decisions can be made in the wrong way, but in the long run, it’s worked for us.

Yet you’re more than just the “Money Guys.” Exactly. We’re not just businessmen in suits and ties, we’re also designers. Everything you see in the Riedel collection has been first created in our heads. That’s something to be proud of. We see these glasses as instruments, not so much objects. In that respect we’re more akin to the Bauhaus school of architecture, where form and function are equally important. This makes us unique compared to competitors who hire designers to make something simply to be pretty.

Speaking of “suits and ties,” you’re always dressed to the nines, it seems. Since I produce handmade products myself, I enjoy quality, hand-

made clothing. My grandfather and father had everything tailored: Our tailor is in Munich, we get shirts from a tailor in Venice, and there’s a nice shoe maker in Vienna. Today I’m wearing a blue lizard shoe which I helped design. The way people dress is an indication of how they do business; people who have an eye for these things are likely people who run detailoriented businesses like ours. But [style] doesn’t always translate: I wear the most beautiful Hermès pocket square, which I love. I was at a nightclub for a work event, and this man said, “My God, how can you wear this, isn’t it out of fashion?” I was the only one in a suit and pocket square at 11 p.m., and this man thought badly of me because I wasn’t in an untucked shirt and loafers. But I was working; when I’m casual, it’s a different story.

So clothes do make the person? It’s interesting how the younger generation approaches this. Sure, they have great business ideas, but if you look at the industrial icons, how they presented themselves to the public was as important as their ideas. I believe strongly the suit will come back as a business statement. With a suit, you never overdress, you never underdress. What’s more, it makes good business sense. Jeans nowadays can go for $400 or more. They go in and out of fashion in a year. A suit can last a lifetime. Casual fashion can be as expensive as a tailored suit, and people don’t realize it. This is my point of view, anyway. Whether it sounds old fashioned or not, it has served me well.

spirits

BEWARE THE BARTENDER WHO DOES NOT REFRIGERATE HIS VERMOUTH.

DRINKOLOGY

The best cocktails come with a great backstory. By Robert Haynes-Peterson

Sazerac: A New Orleans original, right? Maybe. Cocktail historian Wondrich notes that the first known published reference to the Sazerac cocktail is in an 1840 New Orleans paper quoting a New York City paper. Oh the horror! Another drink that initially employed Cognac (before rye), America’s First Cocktail is credited to Dr. Antoine Amedee Peychaud (of Peychaud’s

FABIO CHIZZOLA/MAREK & ASSOCIATES/TRUNKARCHIVE.COM

“A good drink is a good drink. A great drink is a good drink with a great story.” This bon mot was iterated by Tanqueray Gin brand ambassador Angus Winchester at this spring’s first-ever Manhattan Cocktail Classic. Thanks to a renewed interest in classic cocktails and intrepid researchers like David Wondrich (Imbibe!), Robert Hess of the Museum of the American Cocktail, and Anastatia Miller and Jared Brown (Spirituous Journey, A History of Drink), the often anecdotal and competing histories of our favorite cocktails are nowadays arriving at something closer to the truth. Though as “Wine Geek” and bartending instructor Steve Olson says, it’s all still “murky bar history.”

MARTINEZ

(from Jerry Thomas 1887) dash Boker’s Bitters dash Maraschino Liqueur 1 oz Old Tom Gin 2 oz Antica Formula Sweet Vermouth Pour ingredients into a mixing glass, shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon slice. Can be sweetened with 2 dashes gum syrup.

Martini: For years, the “Martinez”—a gin, vermouth, cherry liqueur and bitters concoction that appears in bartending icon Jerry Thomas’s 1887 edition of How to Mix Drinks—was considered the “grandfather” of the Martini. Problem is, the ingredients don’t line up all that well. Perhaps it’s more of an “uncle.” Winchester’s “Martini Family Tree” includes three significant ancestors: the Martinez, the Turf Club (Dutch gin and sweet vermouth) and bartender Harry Johnson’s 1895 Marguerite (not to be confused with the Margarita) which includes Plymouth Gin, dry vermouth and bitters. Oddly, Johnson’s “Martini” (first known use of the word) has almost nothing to do with a modern Martini. Wondrich, meanwhile, explores four stories in his book Imbibe!, including that Judge Rudolph Martine invented the drink at the Manhattan Club by ordering gin

rather than rye, and French over Italian vermouth in his Manhattan cocktail. Insider’s Tip: Beware the bartender who does not refrigerate his vermouth. Definitely stirred, NOT shaken, says Angus Winchester.

Dr. Funk: Tiki drinks are hot right now, and the Dr. Funk is a unique introduction to the tropical cocktail world, beyond Piña Coladas. Though a standard recipe appears in Trader Vic’s 1947 Bar Guide, what’s particularly cool is that Dr. Bernard Funk was a real guy and a close friend of author Robert Louis Stevenson (who retreated to Samoa for his final years). The good doctor was known for adding lemonade and absinthe to “a stiff drink,” and the cocktail evolved from there. In the new book Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails, With a Twist (October 2010), the authors/bartenders have updated the Dr. Funk with Mekhong Thai rum, ginger beer and mint. Insider’s Tip: The drink is traditionally served in a Fu Manchu mug, not a Tiki mug.

Sidecar: The Sidecar is “a beautiful gift from the French,” says Wondrich, “and one of the only good cocktails to come out of Prohibition.” But the cognac-based “Daisy” (any long drink with a base spirit, citrus and a sweetner) has its roots in Jerry Thomas’s 1876 Improved Brandy Cocktail. Joseph Santina, a New Orleans bar owner, is credited with rimming a glass with lemon juice and sugar in 1852, and creating the “Crusta” category, crucial to the evolution of Sidecars, Margaritas and other cocktails. The first mention of the Sidecar by name is in Harry McElhone’s 1919

Harry’s ABC of Cocktails, where he credits London bartender Patrick MacGarry with inventing it. Robert Vermiere’s 1922 Cocktails, How To Mix Them instead says the drink was popular in France during World War I, and was named for an American Army Captain who rode to and from Paris mainstay Henry’s Bar in a motorcycle sidecar, and helped design the drink. The finishing touch—the sugared rim—doesn’t show up until after Prohibition in the mid-1930s.

Margarita: Another in the “Daisy” category of drinks, the Margarita has more creation stories than any other popular cocktail except, perhaps, the Cosmopolitan. “The Margarita really got its start as tequila-spiked lemonade on the roadsides of Mexico,” says Junior

CABO WABO

(From Trader Vic 1947) 1/2 oz dark Jamaican rum 1/4 oz Clandestine Absinthe 1/2 oz lemon juice 1/4 oz grenadine 1/4 tsp sugar fresh lime Cut lime in quarters, muddle in a mixing glass. Add liquid ingredients and sugar. Shake with ice and strain into a chimney glass. Top with club soda or sparkling water, and garnish with fresh fruit and a fresh, edible flower.

Bitters fame) who was drinking with friends in his office and threw together a little absinthe, bitters and a Cognac called Sazerac-deForge et Fils. Et voila! The name stuck when proprietor John Schiller opened New Orleans Sazerac Coffee House in 1859.

PLYMOUTH GIN

DR. FUNK COCKTAIL

Merino, the Liquid Chef and a Mexican-born bar consultant in New York. The combination of tequila, triple sec and lime—essentially a Tequila Sidecar—boasts at least eight 1940s-era “inventors,” but didn’t grab national attention in the U.S. until well into the 1970s. Our favorite origin story: The drink is named after actress Rita Hayworth (birth name Margarita Cansino) by one or more bartenders while she was a dancer in Tijuana. The truth may be far more mundane: The Spanish word for daisy is margarita. AyAyAy!

ISABELLE ET VINCENT

world scene

LET THEM EAT CAKE

After drawing customers from all over France to his boulangerie in Strasbourg for over 20 years, Master Patissier, Confiseur and Glacier Vincent Koenig and his wife Isabelle have come to America and opened Isabelle et Vincent in Fairfield, Connecticut. Here they create sublime French pastries, truffles made with Valrhona chocolate, breads, quiches and tarts, and even homemade ice creams. For the autumn and winter months, Vincent prepares marrons glacĂs (candied chestnuts), layered hot chocolate (an intoxicating concoction of both dark and milk Valrhona chocolate) and brioche noelle (a traditional French log cake filled with chocolate, coffee, vanilla and praline).

The World at Your Door: European experiences in America. By Donald Charles Richardson

TODD NAKASHIMA

ITALIAN DINING HITS THE PEAKS

Nestled at the foot of the Carnic and Julian Alps in northeast Italy, the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region is celebrated for its food and wine. Now the cuisine, culture and wine of Friuli can be found in another mountain district. James Beard Foundation Award winners, Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey and Chef Lachlan MackinnonPatterson, have opened Frasca in Boulder, Colorado. The menu combines local organic produce and foods with Friuli-style flair in dishes like Colorado lamb with Marzano tomato ragu. The wine list is extensive and includes the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Friuli-made wine, Scarpetta. To keep Frasca authentic, the entire staff travels annually to Italy and brings back new ideas. This fall, guests can look forward to a variety of veal dishes with white truffles, served with a vibrant 2004 Vajra Barolo.

KNOWLEDGE WISDOM TRUTH

The Mission Inn in Riverside, California started as a 12-room adobe boarding house in the 1870s. Frank Miller turned it into a luxury hotel in 1903, decorating it with objects gathered on his numerous trips to Europe. There are flying buttresses, an interior Spanish courtyard with an Italianinspired bronze Bacchus fountain, marble mosaics, frescos and a unique collection of 400 bells strewn throughout the grounds, a favorite of Miller’s. Included is the oldest dated bell in Christendom (A.D. 124), brought from England. Today, even the service has a European flair. There’s an impressive wine list, an authentic Italian restaurant, and the 7,000 square foot spa utilizes European techniques and oils.

For nearly 30 years, Seattle wine merchant McCarthy & Schiering has been collecting and offering their clients wonderful wines from around the world. Divided between two shops are nearly 1,500 European wines focusing primarily on small individual estates of France and Italy, and recently the vintages being produced in Austria, Spain, Portugal and Germany. This fall, for a simple dinner, McCarthy & Schiering recommends Pico Maccario Lavignone Barbera d’Asti (about $13). On more lavish occasions, you might serve one of the finest handcrafted wines from France, Chateau d’Yquem. (The chateau dates back to the 1600s and grapes are picked as many as ten times per vintage in partial clusters.) 100 bottles will be offered in an immense 15 liter size for $20,000.

MAXWELL BALMAIN

ON A MISSION

THE MISSION INN HOTEL & SPA

world scene

VINTAGES ON THE EDGE

CARLTON HOBBES

THE MANSION ON THE HILL The quiet, graceful Carnegie Hill neighborhood of New York City’s Upper East Side is home to important museums and magnificent townhouses. Among the most impressive is a three-story mansion in the Neoclassical French style, built in 1930 by architect John Russell Pope for Virginia Graham Fair Vanderbilt. International antiques dealers Carlton Hobbs and Stefanie Rinza painstakingly restored the house to its former glory as a showplace for their European antique gallery. The collection includes a superb porcelain and gilt bronze-mounted demi-lune side table by Bellange, originally acquired for Carlton House by George IV, and a Travertine dining table designed by Henry Moore. The Carlton Hobbs Gallery is open to the public, offering a remarkable opportunity to discover rare treasures.

19 5 0-2010

CELEBRATING 60 YEARS OF AU T H E N T IC A M E R IC A N S T Y L E www.roberttalbott.com

est.

twenty

years

Our 20th Anniversary In October 1990, the first pair of Bills Khakis rolled off the line. That pair of khakis represented something pretty special. 20 years later, the world has changed, but not Bills Khakis. Our commitment to timeless, American-made value remains as important as ever. You have dutifully worn through pair after pair, faithfully coming back to replace that which youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve grown so familiar. Thank you for your continued support and for finding value in what we do and how we do it. Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.

cooking

A RECIPE FOR

hile dining out has its benefits, sometimes there’s nothing more romantic than an intimate date night at home. With the help of Eric S. Lee’s Sweeping Her Off Her Feet With Food, even novice chefs can master sure-towow dishes like Duck Breast with Raspberry Ginger Sauce and Lamb Osso Bucco. Lee provides full menus for simple but delicious meals, laid out in order of increasing difficulty. He also offers easy tips for enhancing the mood, dressing to impress (we can help with that!) and setting a beautiful table. Like any good cookbook, there’s a glossary of terms and photos of the basic tools you’ll need. But Lee’s deeper message is that our relationships deserve the same amount of effort we devote to the other areas of our increasingly hectic lives. When you take the

HEAT UP COLD NIGHTS WITH A HOME COOKED MEAL FOR TWO. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE 72

extra time to make your partner feel special, good things are sure to follow. Wink. This recipe for Baked Tilapia with Ratatouille was created by Lee exclusively for Forum readers. It’s a great fall dish that’s simple yet hearty, and a snap to make. End with a box of favorite chocolate truffles for a no hassle dessert. (Continued)

IMAGES BY JULIE CARDINAL

Romance

Baked Tilapia with Ratatouille

translucent, about 2 minutes. Turn heat to high and immediately pour in white wine. Cook mixture until liquid begins to evaporate, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes, thyme and oregano and cook for 1 minute, then reduce heat to simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper to taste. Prepare brown rice according to instructions on package. Salt and pepper both sides of each fish filet and place in an 11 x 9 inch

FAS H I O N S FOR EVE RY LI FESTYLE AN D SEASON 73

baking dish oiled with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place in oven and bake for 7 to 9 minutes, until fish is cooked through and flakes when pierced with a fork. Remove from oven and place fish filets on top of 1/4 cup of cooked brown rice placed in the center of dinner plate. Spoon Ratatouille on top of fish and serve with warmed artisan bread and olive oil for dipping. Enjoy with a light bodied Merlot, Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Rioja.

I N F O @ G E I G E R O F A U S T R I A . C O M • W W W. G E I G E R - F A S H I O N . C O M

2 4-6 ounce tilapia filets (or other mild fish like sole or halibut) 1 medium zucchini cut lengthwise and sliced into half-moons 1 small eggplant diced into 1 inch cubes 4 fresh Roma tomatoes, diced 3 cloves of garlic, chopped 1/3 cup red onion, chopped 1/4 teaspoon thyme 1/4 teaspoon oregano 1/4 cup white wine 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup brown rice salt and pepper to taste Preheat oven to 3750. Place a 2-quart saucepan on stove over medium high heat. Add 1/4 cup olive oil. Once oil is warm, add zucchini and eggplant and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until vegetables begin to soften. Add garlic and onion, then stir and sauté until

sports style

THE TERM TEAM PLAYER APPLIES ALL THE WAY AROUND, NOT JUST TO THE PLAYERS IN THE LOCKER ROOM, BUT TO EVERYONE IN THE ORGANIZATION.

TOUCHDOWN MOMENT

Pittsburgh Steelers’ Arthur J. Rooney II carries the ball for the family that changed football history. By Cally Jamis Vennare

It all began in 1933 with $2,500 and a vision. Both the money and the magic were provided by Arthur J. Rooney, Sr., one of the great pioneers of the sports world. When “The Chief,” as he was fondly called, founded the Pittsburgh Steelers franchise on July 8, 1933, there were only four other NFL teams in existence: Chicago (now Arizona) Cardinals, Green Bay Packers, Chicago Bears and New York Giants. It was a

touchdown moment in history that, 76 years later, would result in the NFL franchise to first capture six Super Bowl titles. From his South Side office in Pittsburgh, The Chief’s grandson and namesake, Arthur J. Rooney II, retells the now legendary story with absolute pride and just a hint of an Irish smile. “It all started from fairly humble beginnings,” says Rooney, President of the Pittsburgh Steelers since

THE ROONEY LEGACY While his grandfather was a largerthan-life, cigar-smoking Irishman, much beloved and revered by Pittsburghers even after his death in 1988, his grandson exudes a more quiet, subdued presence. He is a man committed not only to his role as president of the Pittsburgh

GETTY 1 / DONALD MIRALLE

Arthur J. Rooney II, left, with his father Dan Rooney and Pittsburgh Steelers head coach Mike Tomlin after their 2009 Super Bowl win

2003. “According to my grandfather, he never made any money his first decade in the business. When he started the team, it was one of several sports ventures he was involved in. At the time, one of the most profitable ones was professional boxing and he was a fight promoter. It was a much bigger business than pro football in the ’30s. It’s fair to say that [boxing] probably funded the team… that was the pocket he had the money in.” Fast forward almost eight decades and the $2,500 investment is now a multi-million dollar football enterprise. The Steelers’ third generation owner is now responsible for building the impenetrable team of coaches and players that can return him to Super Bowl glory in 2010.

Steelers, but also to ensuring that the legacy and standards set by his grandfather and continued by his father Dan (now the U.S. Ambassador to Ireland and Chairman Emeritus of the Pittsburgh Steelers) are proudly carried forth. Yet Rooney’s original game plan varied significantly from that of his predecessors. While they both spent their careers in business, he practiced law for over 20 years. But in the late ’90s the future of Three Rivers Stadium (at that time the shared home of the Pittsburgh Pirates and the Pittsburgh Steelers) was in question. “At that point, my father had enough on his plate that he delegated the stadium issue to me. From there my involvement in the team continued to grow.” In the end, each sports team built its own distinct stadium. Rooney was intimately involved in the creation of the Steelers’ current home, Heinz Field, which opened in 2001. Seven years later, Heinz Field was the site of one of his most memorable career moments: the Steelers’ 2008 AFC Championship win. “For me it was a special moment because it was the first time we’d won a championship game at Heinz Field. We couldn’t get over that hump. So when we finally did, the feeling in the stadium that night was awfully special. It was a night I will never forget because of the amount of time and energy I had put into making that building happen.” Being exposed to mentors like Chuck Noll, Jim Bost and Joe Gordon—long-time Steelers coaches and pros—also made a significant impact. Teamwork and good character remain essential to the Steelers president at every level of his enterprise. “My grandfather and my

THE NFL, THE PITTSBURGH STEELERS AND UNITED WAY

Giving back to the community has always been a Rooney family priority and a hallmark of both the NFL and Pittsburgh Steelers enterprises. One of the most visible national examples of community collaboration is the NFL and United Way Partnership. For over 35 years, the partnership has exemplified the tangible good that can come when the NFL joins forces with the world’s largest nonprofit to create real change in communities across the country. “There is a history of connection to the United Way going back to my grandfather, and a strong corporate commitment over the years,” notes Rooney II. As Chair of United Way of Allegheny County, he has helped reshape and refocus its efforts to ensure that all dollars raised are directed to the community’s most critical needs. “We receive so much support from the community [so] we try to be involved and be leaders in the community. We’ve been fortunate that many of our players understand the value of giving back. Charlie Batch is our best example. It’s remarkable to see and a great example not only for our players, but for our city.” To learn more about United Way, visit www.liveunited.org. father always believed in surrounding yourself with good people in business. [The term] team player applies all the way around, not just to the players in the locker room, but to everyone in the organization.”

THE FUTURE OF FOOTBALL There is no denying that, even after all these years, the Steelers president is still energized and excited by the game. His gestures broaden and his soft eyes get fiery when he talks about our country’s number one spectator sport. Each successive Rooney genera-

tion has upheld its stance on the importance of the National Football League in the overall organizational strategy of the team. They staunchly believe that the Steelers, as part of the NFL, must be respectful of that partnership. “While each team handles its own business, we operate in a way where what’s good for the League has to be the priority. ” Yet he is both complimentary and cautionary. “Our main job is to ensure that the business of football does not screw up the game of football, because it has become a big business. But at its core, what makes it so very appealing is that we have a great game…and people love it and are passionate about it. And the players are passionate about it.” What’s good for the NFL and for business must not come at the expense of that passion, emphasizes Rooney, “because that’s what is truly driving the train.”

THE LAST WORD ON STYLE Both on and off the field, Rooney exudes a subtle sophistication. His style is, by his own admission, “conservative.” Favored designers include Zegna, Hickey Freeman and Burberry. Does his wife Greta influence his fashion style? After 25 years of marriage, she’s still attempting to add color to his traditional palette. “She’s not thrilled with all the blue and gray suits I have in my closet. So once in a while she’ll go out and buy me a bright yellow blazer.” Her playful attempt to blend a conservative blazer with the more vibrant of his team’s black and gold colors does not escape him. “Well, there’s only one or two times a year I’ll wear that,” he laughs in response. “Maybe on Easter, but who knows when else...” Keep trying Greta.

end page

EVER SINCE I TRIED ON MY FIRST PAIR OF LEVI’S, I’VE REMAINED FAITHFUL IN A WAY I RARELY DID WITH WOMEN.

IN THE JEANS

I’m visiting my ex-girlfriend in NYC, and she’s trying to separate me from my 501s. Not in the way that a guy would want: slowly and seductively. Instead, it’s broad daylight and I’m being dragged into a trendy shop. “Yes, Levi’s are classic, but there are brands out there that will suit you better now,” she insists. “Your style needs to grow up a bit.” After five years together, Bettina and I have become friends. Could this be her way of getting back at me? She had wanted me to commit to her in the way I had committed to my 501s. I’m from Milan and ever since I tried on my first pair of bootleg, buttonfly Levi’s, I’ve remained faithful in a way I rarely did with women. Maybe she’s right. I’m almost old enough for the Italian version of AARP and I’m still wearing worn-out jeans and T-shirts, particularly sad for an Italian. In the store, she pulls me toward a stack of ‘tarnished’ jeans (a faded black wash). I keep my mouth shut and do what I’m told. She says I need jeans that flatter my butt. I’m a bit insulted: what’s wrong with my butt? I remember buying my first pair of 501s, a decision I made mostly because the sales associate was young

and female and gorgeous. Throughout high school and university, I remained loyal to Levi’s, their comfort and continuity. I’ll admit it: I liked my women new and my denim worn in. Now, as I step out of the dressing room in these unfamiliar jeans, I feel like a wannabe rock star. Nearby, a handsome young French guy has tried on three pairs to my one, all perfect on him. I’m confronted with an image of confidence I’m unlikely to acquire again, certainly not in these jeans, which are clearly all wrong. Ready for a quick exit, Bettina promises she’ll continue searching for my perfect jeans and will send them to me in Italy. A week later, I receive a package at work. I lock myself in my office and try them on. I scrutinize my secretary’s face while I ask for her opinion. She’s young and hip, and I have no shame. She likes them! And, so do I. They skim my body and magically give the illusion of my old fencer’s physique: higher, rounder glutes and longer legs. I feel manly and renewed. How could I not have noticed that my 501s were no longer doing it for me? Soon after, Bettina flies to Milan on business and I wear them for her. She looks at me like she did when we were first together. The moment is at once exhilarating and comfortable. Hoping she feels it too, I discover the extreme pleasure of jeans being unzipped. (She jokes about no more broken nails from undoing buttons.) We’re in sync for the first time in ages and I realize that we fit… like the jeans I’m wearing. I resolve to go with the changes and grow into the next phase of my life. This time, she won’t have to drag me.

IMAGE COURTESY OF AGAVE

We all have to grow up eventually. By Michael Giulietti

BEAUTY. BALANCE. LUXURY.

Orlanda Olsen crafts her pieces with quality and wearability in mind, using only the finest materials. Her equine collection is internationally recognized and she has many new designs each season. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection. . . exclusively at Rodes For Her. “I think my jewelry is a blend of Edge and Elegance. The difference between something nice and something sensational is in the details and using the finest materials. I like to give everyone something to buy and create jewelry that evokes an emotional response.”