R od e s Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2012
A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER
WHY CUSTOM? WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS
welcome
IT’S ALL ABOUT PEOPLE…
In 18 months Rodes will celebrate our 100th anniversary in Louisville. As a point of reference, that’s the same year the Panama Canal opened and the first traffic light was installed in the U.S.! Leading up to this milestone, we want to share personal stories and highlight the people who make your Rodes experience so special. You’ve always been there for us and we look forward to you learning more about the Rodes “brand.” That brand is our people, our culture and our unwavering commitment to you every day. Not many of you were around when we first opened on St. Patrick’s Day in 1914, but we are blessed that you’re a part of our Rodes family now! Please enjoy this issue of Rodes Forum magazine with our compliments. See you around town, Susan & Howard Vogt
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Passion for Nature Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape
Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) www.rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell
FEATURES 2 6 14 78 82
Welcome Letter Happenings Exceptional People Make an Exceptional Store Icons: The Marilyn Mystique Food: Roll With It
FASHION 23 42 48 50 52 59 64 66
Fabulous Fall Fashion Uncaged Style Designers: Sebastian-Style Designers: Very Vivek Fit: The Evolution of the Suit Why Choose Custom? The Merits of Made to Measure A Change of Seasons
DEPARTMENTS 18 44 46 54 74 80 84
At Your Service Ask Jim Ask Susan Travel: Five Adventures World Scene Speed: A Knight for All Reasons End Page: Enough Already
MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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HAPPENINGS
TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
SPRING/DERBY EVENTS & SHOWS
TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
Rodes hosted many Spring/Derby shows and fundraisers as well as participated in other events around town. We salute our vendors, patrons and friends who made this possible! Visit rodes.com to see what’s in store for you this week.
R
HAPPENINGS
TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
DERBY DIVAS @ RODES
TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
It was a full house at Rodes on April 19th, as we hosted the Derby Divas annual fundraiser. Thanks to the generosity of everyone involved, this event raised over $98,000 to support the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program. Adding to the success of the night, Thornton’s Inc. generously matched contributions with an additional $100,000!
Quality
is Always Fashionable
DESIGNED BY EDWARD WILKERSON
LAFAYETTE148NY.COM
EXCEPTIONAL PEOPLE MAKE AN EXCEPTIONAL STORE
KATHY BAKER
Born in St. Matthews, Kathy knew she would be a teacher one day. She taught elementary for several years. Kathy is as colorful as her gardens and uses that love of freshness when working with her clients. Kathy encourages her clients to take a risk with their wardrobe. She describes her style as fresh, combining the classics with a twist. That’s why her favorite piece of fashion is a classic black Armani suit. She enjoys this piece because its basic versatility can be dressed up or down. Kathy's style idol is Audrey Hepburn, not only for her elegance but for all of her humanitarian compassions. If you ask her why Rodes is special, she’ll quickly answer, “I love my customers! And those wonderful red boxes with the white ribbon.” Best Known For: Her endearing devotion to Elvis and his Blue Suede Shoes Hobbies: Grandbabies Olivia, Samantha and Georgia Mae Vacation Spots: Watching for the green flash in Captiva Memorable Rodes Story: “On Christmas I received a call from Reed Smith saying a customer had forgotten to pick up his wife’s Christmas package. So Reed and I met the customer at the store on Christmas Day to make sure his wife received her package. I’ve always said that I approached my job as a concierge, but at that moment I truly understood what this meant. It made my Christmas knowing we helped make theirs special.”
CHERI HINES
Cheri was raised in the south end of Louisville and started her selling career for Rodes in 1983, growing up on the marble floors downtown. When she was a little girl she wanted to be a jazz singer. Strongly influenced by music, her vision was wearing that long black dress crooning to a piano tune. Fashion became a part of her life through the eyes of her customers. She takes care of the best of the best! Her customers have wonderful taste and are always searching for the finest quality in the world. Jim Porter (Rodes men’s buyer) is Cheri's fashion idol. She likes how he blends his own personal taste with fashion. When asked why Rodes is special to her, Cheri says, “Rodes has allowed me great opportunities to grow. We have the greatest group in the world!"
Hobbies: Family, travel Vacation Spots: Germany, Italy and relaxing in Mexico Favorite Designer: Isaia: sexier fit and beautiful fabrications Memorable Rodes Story: “Once I visited a customer in Cincinnati in the Chiquita Center parking garage. In a short window of time we tried on seven suits and several sportcoats with NO dressing rooms! So out of the trunk of his car, each item was tried on, fitted and measured; all fit perfectly! We still joke about the security cameras in the garage.”
OUR SHELVES AND RACKS MAY BE FILLED WITH THE WORLD'S FINEST MEN'S AND WOMEN'S CLOTHING, BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT KEEPS CUSTOMERS COMING BACK.
REED SMITH Reed is a native Louisvillian, born and “thread.” Reed wanted to be a doctor like his grandfather, but instead was lured into the family business by his father, Embry, and grandfather, Hanford Smith. Folded into the business in 1971, Rodes is literally in Reed’s blood. You could describe Reed’s style as conservative: in two words, timeless and traditional. Reed regards himself as the “King of Suits.” “Wearing a suit implies power and confidence. When you walk into a meeting, your audience doesn’t see the car that you drive or how many TV’s you own, they see you,” he says. Reed’s style idol is Sir Sean Connery. “Mr. Connery looks relaxed and well-dressed whether in a tuxedo or in a great pair of jeans with a soft coat. When asked why Rodes is special to him his reply is, “Simple: It’s a great, fun place to work!” Favorite Closet Piece: A navy pinstripe Ermenegildo Zegna 15 mil mil suit Hobbies: Golf, golf and more golf, fishing and hunting doves Vacation Spots: The west coast of Florida and the Robert Trent Jones Golfing Trail Memorable Rodes Story: “A few years back a client and dear friend of 25-plus years called me at 9 a.m. needing new outfits for a trip. That trip began at 5 p.m. that afternoon! We met early, selected nine new garments, including shirts, ties, belts and shoes, and we had them fitted, altered and pressed before he left town.”
DENISE TOOHEY Denise was raised in Louisville. She has been on the fashion scene for five years now, stating that she is a salesperson at heart. Denise’s childhood dream was to be an independent business owner in a creative field. Her grandmother was a very fashionable lady and that fashion sense was not lost on Denise. She loves the fashion of Audrey Hepburn, Jackie O and Princess Diana. It’s hard for her to pinpoint a favorite piece of clothing in her closet, but she loves her leather Zenobia jacket and Orlanda Olsen ring. For Denise, Rodes is special because, “Rodes stands for excellence. The quality of the company, from the owners to the fitters...there is none better.” Denise’s Style: Ladylike, funky chic Hobbies: Shopping. Tennis. Reading a good book. Yoga. Cooking. Vacation Spots: Italy Memorable Rodes Story: “Derby season is such an exciting time at the store. I received a phone call from a young lady who was able to attend the Derby for the first time; she was looking for “the” hat. She arrived at Rodes and Christine Moore, the renowned hat designer, was here. Through some discussion and creativity we crafted a fascinator that was absolutely perfect for her. She was so thrilled that when she got to the track she relayed her story to a friend who introduced her to Susan Vogt (Rodes co-owner), who was attending the Derby as well. She sought her out just to let her know how wonderful her experience was and how 'Denise was awesome!' For me it was just a joy to see how satisfied she was and how absolutely beautiful she looked. That is the best part of my career at Rodes: providing an experience that makes someone feel better.”
ENJOY THE BEAUTY OF THE SEASON AT
CALOSPA’S 11TH ANNUAL OPEN HOUSE WEDNESDAY & THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 7TH & 8TH FROM 4 P.M. TO 8 P.M. 20% OFF SPECIALS
Receive 20% off Day Spa and Medical Spa treatments (excluding Botox® & DysportTM) and 20% off all skincare products.
RSVP BY NOVEMBER 2ND
Please feel free to bring guests. Call 502.899.9982 or RSVP online rsvp@calobrace.com
MediSpa Services • botox/dysport • skin clarifying • wrinkle reduction • designer liquid facelift • hand rejuvenation
DaySpa Services • facial tightening • injectable fillers • rejuvenating peels • fraxel lasers • facial rejuvenation
• relaxing massage • custom facials • manicures • body polish • contour wraps
• massage for two • pedicures • facial waxing • nourishing make-up • cleansing facials
502.814.3000 2341 Lime Kiln Lane, Louisville, KY www.calospa.com Find us on
acebook and
witter
JOIN CALOSPA AND DR. ZEIN OBAJI FOR BEVERLY HILLS IN THE ‘VILLE. Don’t miss this special ZO SKINCARE event which includes cocktails and talks by Dr. Calobrace, Dr. Mizuguchi and Dr. Zein Obaji. Enjoy the rest of the evening by learning more about our ZO Skin Health and ZO Medical products, mingling and partying.
THE PALACE THEATER
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THURSDAY, SEPT 6TH FROM 5:30 P.M. TO 9:00 P.M.
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RSVP OR CALL FOR MORE DETAILS AT 502.814.3000
at your service
Going above and beyond for you is the heart and soul of Rodes’ culture. Here are a few of the services we offer to make your experience special.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.
GIFT CARDS We’ll make it easy. . . stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.
ALTERATIONS With 10 master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. We are the largest tailor shop in the area. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to accommodate your schedule for any of your shopping needs. Just call us and we’ll make it happen.
HOME/OFFICE VISITS Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries; we’re more than happy to come to your home or office, anytime.
CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Rodes for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.
PERSONAL DELIVERY Whether in Louisville, Southern Indiana, or anywhere in the United States, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift wrap and then there’s Rodes gift wrap! The unforgettable red box with the white ribbon. It’s always complimentary and is the perfect finishing touch.
125 years of American-made fine tailored clothing
HOLIDAY TREASURES Whether you’re looking for a gift for that special someone or just treating yourself, Orlanda has the perfect accessories for the Holidays. Orlanda likes designing with colorful precious and semi-precious stones, each hand selected for their brilliance. She crafts her jewelry using the finest of materials. Her jewelry was chosen by the Platinum Guild for the “Red Carpet” at the Golden Globe Awards. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection exclusively at Rodes For Her.
DESIGNED BY
WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM
Photography by Eric Williams, Hair & Makeup by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa
abulous Fall Fashions
Canali | Gran Sasso | Gravati
Cinzia Rocca | Longchamp | Loeffler Randall
Luciano Barbera
St. John
Samuelsohn
Magnanni
Armani Collezioni
Hervé Léger
Stuart Weitzman
ESCADA | Kara Ross
Versace
Etro
Robert Talbott
ISAIA
10 Crosby by Derek Lam Jocelyn Furs
Bod & Christensen
Raoul
Eton
Scott Barber
Wolverine
Loeffler Randall
kate spade
Stevie Mac New York
Bills Khakis
Georg Roth | Agave | Gimo's
Wolverine
Bod & Christensen
Loeffler Randall
un caged 2
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3
5
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1. Alexis Bittar – Siyabona Gunmetal Necklace 2. Marc Cain – Exploded Leopard 3. Fuzzi – Leopard Pelt Coat 4. Claudia Lobao – Pearlized Druzy Earrings 5. Kara Ross – Desert Crisp Lizard Clutch & Triple Woven Chain Bracelet
style 1
3
4
2
5
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1. Escada – Mystic Tiger Jacket 2. Zariin – Floating Agates 3. Alexis Bittar – Modular Encrusted Bracelets 4. Marc Cain – Sassy Leopard 5. Hammitt – The Viper Bag 6. Tory Burch – Robinson Envelope Clutch
ASKJIM
FASHION TIPS FOR HIM styles represent a new genre of sportcoat that blurs the boundary between sportswear and tailored clothing. They can be dressed up with a shirt and tie or worn more casually with jeans: comfort, class and cool, all in one item!
Q:
My expensive topcoat is looking dated. Should I have it altered?
Q:
I haven’t lost weight but my pants seem baggy. What’s up with that?
This season’s pant styles are narrower than they used to be: not tight but definitely more fitted (and no longer down to the floor). For fall 2012, we love five-pocket pants in cottons, wools and wool blends. When it comes to jeans, fit is all-important. If your closet is full of droopy denim, let us show you how great you can look in jeans that actually fit.
Q:
If I buy only one item this season, what should it be?
We love refined soft sportcoats in wool blends and cashmeres (both solids and subtle patterns). These
Q:
With global warming, do I really need sweaters?
Although chunky sweaters are very much in style, light and medium weights are also trending, and these have little to do with the weather. A modern or retroinspired cardigan, either button or zip-front, can often replace a jacket or sportcoat. Today’s trimmeddown, fine gauge knits also work well underneath sportcoats since they breathe comfortably—good news for guys who tend to run hot. Cashmeres, merinos and new blends in great colors mean lots of strong sweater options this season.
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Probably not. There’s only so much you can change with alterations, and yesterday’s long billowy coats (topcoats and trenches) are totally OUT in 2012. So give them away to someone in need and buy a new shorter, trimmer-fit overcoat or raincoat. From knee-length on up is the modern way to wear outerwear this season.
Q:
What footwear do I need for fall?
The wrong pair of shoes can instantly ruin an outfit, so don’t forget to consider your footwear as carefully as your clothes. One must-have for fall 2012 is a pair of slightly chunky oxfords in suede or burnished leather, to add a bit of character. Think updated wingtips that are substantial enough to wear with jeans and can also lend an English sensibility to a suit. In addition, there are tons of great boot options, from rugged contemporary styles to beautiful polished dress versions, that add instant personality to your look.
ASKSUSAN
FASHION TIPS FOR HER
changes with the jet stream, the need for versatility is especially important. Long, chunky-knit sweaters are fine for a mild autumn day, but when the winter winds blow there’s nothing better than statement-making outerwear. Luckily, this season brings many warmer coat options that are lightweight, sleek and feminine. Look for classic silhouettes in attention-grabbing fabrics from Cinzia Rocca, or an attitude piece from Italy’s Violanti outerwear. If you buy only one coat this season, make sure it’s a shaped, threequarter length, mid-weight style that’s versatile enough in color and texture to layer with the rest of your clothing.
Q:
What’s new in contemporary fashion?
Some major high-end design talents are now crossing over to the contemporary arena with new divisions. Versace Collection, focused on leather this season, is on the edge with its distinctive “rock-chic” attitude. Derek Lam recently launched 10 Crosby by Derek Lam, inspired by the cool, downtown girl with a fast fashion sense. Cynthia Steffe has re-emerged with her new label Cluny, which combines her signature aesthetic with a streetedge chic. Halston, the father of minimalism, influences Halston Heritage
with the belief that a women should dress simply by day and simply extravagant by night. It’s fun to see them experimenting, combining freshness with years of experience, and making their designs available to a wider audience with more favorable price points. And of course, Rodes is always searching for who will be next. In your own wardrobe, try mingling contemporary and designer pieces for a look that’s eclectic and fun.
Q:
How can I get more mileage out of my outerwear?
In Louisville, where the weather
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Q:
What shoes will update my look this season?
Feminine pumps, cheerful flats and boots with color! We don’t need another basic black boot in our closets—we need attitude! The trend is combining rich, deep tones: shades of gray, navy, chocolate and burgundy that bring alive the neutrals in ready-to-wear fashions. To keep your legs festive above the knee, add colored tights. Pumps are bold in both color and height; adding a pair of textured hose will complete any look. And flats dominate for fall 2012, especially when paired with colored denim. Be sure to finish your look with a bright scarf and chunky jewels.
designers
Sebastian Dollinger
ETON’S DESIGNER BRINGS A FRESH YOUNG TAKE TO LUXURY SHIRTINGS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
tantly took a job in the Eton stockroom, then gradually worked his way up. “I took the long road at Eton, determined to prove myself without favoritism. (Editor’s note: Since his dad has a different last name, few people were aware of the relationship.) I went from the stockroom to a London-based position to a sales job, where I increased volume in my Swedish accounts by 800 percent. At that point, I felt vindicated and was excited to move to a design job.” Explaining the success of Eton, Dollinger sums it up simply: “We don’t take shortcuts; we spend on quality. We use the best French and Italian mills for our fabrics. We’ve developed a special finishing process that takes four-and-a-half weeks extra but adds luster and life to the shirts.” Other success secrets: a sophisticated use of color, pattern and detailing so the shirts are interesting but not over-the-top. “Balance is important,” says Dollinger, who also paints. “There’s a way to combine elements so it’s not screaming or in your face.”
SEBASTIAN-STYLE ith DeVotchKa blasting in the background, it was hard to hear Sebastian Dollinger, conducting this interview from the studio in Sweden where he designs the world-renowned Eton shirt collection. “Yes, I design to music; it’s a big part of my life,” he confides. “I’m a DJ and a drummer when I’m not designing shirts…” He came to designing Eton shirts in a roundabout way: since his father, Jan Borghardt, has worked for the company since 1981, it was the last thing he’d planned to do. “My dad is from Holland; he met my mom on a sailing trip to Sweden, fell in love and needed a job. He started in the Eton stockroom and is now number two at the company. I was born in ’83. I was a wild kid who got kicked out of school and took various jobs pumping gas and waiting tables. But when I ultimately took a stockroom job, I made sure it was the cleanest stockroom in the universe. My dad taught me to take pride in my work, whatever it is…” After serving in the army for a year, Dollinger reluc-
“Don’t wear one brand from head to toe. Be your own brand: it’s more fun that way!” says Dollinger. Finally, there’s the fit factor: Eton shirts come in three different fits so that they feel custom-made. “Eton isn’t just another global brand with extensive marketing; it’s quality in every way. Plus we’re one of very few companies to specialize in shirts.” When he’s not designing, Dollinger is out and about. “My body clock is reversed: I work late and come alive even later. I never watch TV; I’m out doing things. In addition to music (these days he’s listening to Joy Division, Demolition, The Black Keys, Muddy Waters) and design, I love writing (poetry, song lyrics), and also cosmology. I was always that strange little boy who studied the stars every night…”
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designers
VERY VIVEK!
“I try not to use big factories. Instead, I support the artisans: it’s product from their hearts and souls.”
AMONG THE QUIRKIEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS OUT THERE, VIVEK NAGRANI KNOWS THAT DETAILS COUNT! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN He’s been in the menswear business for 14 years, starting with socks because “no one
was doing it right! “Throughout history, fancy socks have been associated with the aristocracy because they’re expensive to make. Especially today, when men don’t have to conform, whimsical socks allow self-expression. The right socks indicate refinement, culture, confidence; they take your look from average to way above. Sinatra wore orange socks. Spanish matadors wear pink socks. (And what’s more manly than fighting a bull?) Socks are probably the most expressive items we wear, so why settle for boring?” His whimsical socks in the finest knits (produced in small, family-owned workshops in Italy and Peru) are not just top quality; they also give back to the community. Among the many events Nagrani has created over the years, most involve a charitable component. For example, last year’s Big Brothers Big Sisters event featured socks designed by kids in need. “We sold 3,200 pairs in a single store, but it was more about the impact of this project on these kids, most of whom are so underprivileged it’s hard to describe. Suddenly there they are showing off their own designs on the
evening news! You cannot imagine their happiness, and what that did to their self-esteem…” Nagrani also does special items, like custom socks for wedding parties and custom underwear (some with rather risqué sayings on the band). One year he did a pure vicuña sock packaged in a mahogany box for $895. “We sold only 27 units, so not a huge success, but for me risk-taking is the only way to move forward.” Nagrani’s newest division of socks and underwear is called Ugly Vix, a slightly lower-priced, retro-inspired collection aimed at younger guys. He describes it as “good taste gone bad.” “Young guys don’t want to dress like their dads, but they might want to dress like their grandpas,” he maintains, showing off the shorter-length socks he’s personally wearing: not quite mid-calf length but designed to stay up, enough for today’s shorter pants. When he’s not working or traveling to stores (he spends 150 days each year on the road), Nagrani loves to golf, cook, hang out with his beautiful wife and threeyear-old daughter (already a fashionista) and create, create, create! “I watch people shop and then figure out what I can do to enhance the product and/or the experience. If I can’t inspire, why am I in business?”
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Wide Maze Cuff, Sterling Silver with Mother of Pearl and White Sapphires
© 2012 Kara Ross NY, LLC // Urbana Bag, Navy Chocolate Ombre Python with Tiger’s Eye // Medium Lollipop Ring, Sterling Silver with Rock Crystal and White Sapphires //
Fine Jewelry and Handbags
www.kararossny.com
888-686-KARA
fit
SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.
Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).
Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.
A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!
Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three. Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the
wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!
Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five
years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).
THE EVOLUTION Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts
are dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.
You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best. Give it a try!
Break: Modern trousers should have either no break or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated! Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.
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H i g h l a n d C l e a n e r s. c o m
travel
5iVE TO CROSS OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST
Conquer your fears—and see the world—one exotic locale at a time.
ADVENTURES
Losing yourself in wanderlust
is plenty safe when you’re at home or in the office. But instead of remaining far away in thought, why not hit the rugged terrain, challenging your senses with exotic sights and sensations? Your ‘bucket list,’ things to see and do before you die, should include a few experiences that push the limits of your comfort zone. Via charter boat and petite plane, my own first to-do was an island-hopping jaunt through the Caribbean’s Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, where I pushed myself beyond caution and politeness to carpe diem. On the sleepy, rustic-chic island of Canoan, I cruised the Tobago Cays aboard Captain Yanni’s catamaran. At the unprotected, bio-diverse Salt Whistle Bay, I proposed an excursion beyond the requisite snorkel, which allowed me to channel my inner hunter and learn to catch, kill and eat my own prey. Underwater, I spotted sea urchins, white jellyfish, trumpet fish and stingrays. I did the dirty work, catching a few urchins and (squeamishly) plunging a butter knife into their porcupine-like shells to crack the critters open. I scooped out the sweet, yellow, yolk-like meat, added lemon, and swallowed the suckers raw. Once I discovered my inner swashbuckler, I was inspired to keep conquering my fears. Of course, my bucket list adventures may not be for everyone, but I’ve found that juxtaposing luxury accommodations and personal challenges can elevate any vacation experience. Start planning your own expeditions, and consider tackling these tasks: they range from curiously challenging to seriously scary. You might just end up with a collection of trips of a lifetime.
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LIVE AND LET GO
OVERCOME YOUR FEAR OF HEIGHTS while satisfying a curiosity for soaring through the sky (without having to jump from a plane). Nestled within a quiet expanse of verdant olive groves in the heart of Provence is Opio en Provence, a ClubMed resort. Here, I chose the flying trapeze as my pursuit du jour. Fifty feet above the grassy grounds, I clung tightly to the wooden trapeze bar. Though I was securely harnessed with a safety net positioned below, the height was hard to ignore. After the initial panic, I let go of my anxieties and allowed my body to drop down off the plank. I embraced the rush of adrenaline and the cool, French breeze as I attempted to swing my legs over the bar in a rather ungraceful effort at circus acrobatics. Fortunately, they let me take another swing at it. 54
2
“WHERE’S THE NORMAL FOOD?” is a frustration often overheard while
PUSH YOUR PALATE
traveling. But sampling the local fare is a culinary journey in itself. In Singapore, street eats are tasty and hygienic, thanks to the city-state’s obsessive insistence on cleanliness. I experienced the organized chaos in the acclaimed hawker markets—multiplexes packed to the brim with highly praised food stalls—where I devoured coconut-curried laksa, prawn noodles, and a red bean and herbal jelly iced kacang dessert. Then, pushing beyond my culinary comfort, I ordered the oft-illegal (because it’s offensively stinky) durian fruit in its slightly milder ice cream form. The taste: oddly sweet, and then…somehow…not. ’s water towers
4
enter the home.
3
STAND TALL WITH CONFIDENCE
TAKE IT TO THE TOP
Walking on water is a divine experience.
There’s a stretch of calm Caribbean coast outside the Cotton House Resort, on the private island of Mustique, that’s perfect for stand-up paddleboarding. I cast off from the shore on my surfboard, made my way beyond the initial crashing waves to calmer seas, and paused to get my bearings. Centered on my board, I braced myself and adjusted to the sensation of moving water beneath me as I rose to my feet. Still wobbly, I stood up tall and carefully dipped my oar into the glittery blue. I took one stroke, then another. Though it was physically challenging, I truly found my zen as I skimmed gently over the rippling waves.
5
DRAMATIC, remote pockets of the world are usually unreachable by foot, let alone four-wheel drive. But they are accessible by twin-engine Bell 212 helicopter. I spent three days in British Columbia’s Bugaboos (the birthplace of heli-skiing) guided by Canadian Mountain Holidays. Traversing snow-dusted ridges, facing awe-inspiring spires, and overlooking blue-hued glaciers and glassy lagoons left me feeling humbled—and exercised my core. At the Bugaboo Lodge, a nine-minute flight from Radium Hot Springs, we stumbled upon fresh bear tracks and magnificent photo ops. Mornings brought misty snow, while sunny afternoons were warm enough to de-layer and bask in lush, flowery pastures.
LOOK FEAR IN THE EYE
where between Geyser and Dyer islands on South Africa’s Western Cape, I sure didn’t feel like the top of the food chain. On Marine Dynamics’ 12meter cabin cruiser, I joined a dozen fearless/fearful others for a shark cage dive. Our cavalier captain and his crew of experts chummed the waters before we entered, five at a time, into a metal-barred cage dipped just below the surface in water roughly 30 feet deep. I submerged...and prayed. Suddenly, dorsal fins sliced through the water and four graceful Great Whites appeared. The inquisitive predators circled the boat before nudging the foreign object that had invaded their turf. It left me thankful to be the caged one, safely and willingly trapped inside.
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GETTY IMAGES
Coming face to face with a Great White shark, in a channel some-
CREATING GREAT TROUSERS AND JEANS. IT’S AN ART.
SERGIO KURHAJEC WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY STYLING BY
Why choose
CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.
Quite simply...
The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.
The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.
Individual style and comfort. Unsurpassed fit. Today, more and more men are choosing custom.
A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit. Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years. Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!
CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT... If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.
“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell
CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric
/ -$ 'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$) '0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.
Or, if you’re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model
Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize. Some of the design decisions you will get to make and enjoy are:
PANT
ĕſſ ' / ſ*-ſôſ /Č!-*)/Ěſ ĕſſ 0ïſſ*-ſ)*ſ 0ïſĚ ĕſſ )"/#đſ # - ſ/*ſ - &Ě ĕſſ "ſ*+ )$)"đſ *2ſ.'$(ſ*-ſ2$ Ě
lining
From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.
Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!
buttons JACKET
ĕſſ * 'Ä‘Ĺż - $/$*) 'Ĺż*-Ĺż Ĺż new slimmer silhouette? ĕſſ $)"' ÄŚ - ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż *0 ' ÄŚ breasted ĕſſ 0//*)Ĺż./ ) đſýſ*-ſÞĚſ *2Ĺż#$"#Äš ĕſſ + '.Ä‘Ĺż *2Ĺż2$ Ěſ */ # Äš ĕſſ * & /Ĺż./4' ĕſſ )/Ĺż./4' ĕſſ & /Ĺż' )"/# ĕſſ ' 1 Ä‘Ĺż )"/#Ěſ *-&$)"Ĺż 0//*).Äš
Down the front or at your wrists? Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.
CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric
Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well. Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ ' 4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ / $'.ďſ 1 ſ some fun!
Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar
Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.
common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.
While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.
Custom takes forever.
cuffs
Aside from the classic straight two-button cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,
pockets
' $)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż 0//*)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?
buttons
An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.
monogram
the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!
A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours. Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!
*/Ĺż /Ĺż ''Ä?Ĺż ) Ĺż )Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ſýſ/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?
Custom is costprohibitive. With the
rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!
By William Kissel
The Merits of
MADE TO MEA
_____________________________________ Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck. Not so fast. Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend? Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender? It’s yours simply for the asking. Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the
process and drastically lower the cost. Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’” A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do). Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later
_____________________________________ 64
SURE
_____________________________________ altered at the factory to meet your own physical ing, depending on the fabric) and your personal requirements. “The difference in quality between cus- sense of style. tom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or through the process.” In the case of made to measure, extremely large or small bodies—took advantage of you simply try on a jacket at these suit making services. Today the store that’s close to your it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is size and style preference, and certainly a big factor. But I’d say the suit maker adjusts the the larger factor is men wanting to pattern for a more precise fit. be different and own something Along the way you choose unique,” explains Arnold the fabric (from literally Silverstone, creative director at thousands of choices beyond Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly those offered ready-made at great service for guys who are the store) as well as the super fit and require more than details—from working or the standard 6-inch drop found on FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK... non-working button holes, off-the-rack clothing,” he says. “A Because made to measure cuts center or side vents, and the guy might be a 42 Regular on top out the practice of creating a number of pleats (or no but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a separate pattern for every pleats) on your trousers, to 10-inch drop. You won’t find that customer from scratch, suits are the number, size and shape of combination off the rack.” produced from a pre-existing the pockets and even the There’s one more reason for pattern that is later altered at the color of the interior lining. choosing made to measure: factory to meet your own Need an extra interior pocket “Clothes are very expensive and physical requirements. to house your cigarettes or most men who spend $1,000 or cell phone? You’ve got it. more on a suit want it to last from Want mother of pearl or titafive to seven years,” explains one nium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget it better have all the details he loves. And the best (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricway to ensure that is to create it himself.”
_____________________________________ 65
Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.
A CHANGE OF
SEASONS
PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING
SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Texture. Drawn from nature
itself, fall’s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Layers. There’s no more
stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!
A CHANGE OF
SEA SONS
Warmth! Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And don’t forget a cozy scarf or two...
world scene
DISCOVERING PERU
N
ear the Andes Mountains and Cuzco, the site of the Inca Empire’s capital, Peru is probably on your destination wish list. For travelers who, after spending their days exploring this intriguing region, want to relax in sumptuous surroundings, there’s Palacio Nazarenas. Orient-Express, in collaboration with Peru’s National Institute of Culture, has restored this former 16th-century convent, carefully preserving the property’s heritage while elevating the accommodations to luxury standards. Located in an exclusive enclave in downtown Cuzco, Palacio Nazarenas has personal butlers, and Chef Virgilio Martinez presents specialty dishes featuring indigenous herbs and decorated with edible flowers. For the adventurous guest who needs to unwind after a day of sightseeing or climbing the Andes, there’s the Hypnôze Spa, which uses Peruvian ingredients such as pink Andean salt, flowers and herbs in tailor-made body treatments.
Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson
AFTER HOURS
A
IMAGE BY MATTHEW BUCKLEY
s a child, Gary R. Sullivan began collecting antiques, particularly clocks. Today, Sullivan’s an expert on the subject: he’s seen regularly on Antiques Roadshow, lectures on early American clocks, and contributes often to books and scholarly research. Clock aficionados can drop into his shop in Sharon, Massachusetts and discover an impressive collection of American antique furniture from the Queen Anne through Classical periods, and many remarkable clocks. There’s one with a rocking ship movement, another boasting fruit and fern detail. Sullivan’s crowning clock is perhaps the mahogany Wood & Taylor star inlaid case clock, which stands at over eight feet tall. This flamboyantly decorated clock has a patriotic star motif and exotic contrasting mirror inlays. A nice way to watch time pass.
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SLMAG.net
FANCY FOOD FROM THE FOREST
BY T HNUMBERS... E N U M B E RS . . . BY THE
8,001 units units ofof merchandise on order Fall 2012 8,001 merchandise onfor order for fall 2012
I
n New York’s Hudson River Valley, Crown Maple Farms sits on 800 acres of rich soil where 25,000 century-old sugar and red maples flourish, producing a superior sap for maple sugaring. The farm’s “syrup sommelier” oversees separation of the syrups, and this autumn (in time for National Maple Syrup Day on December 17) the Grade A Dark Amber has such a rich flavor it’s risen to the dizzying heights of haute gourmet. Many of the top chefs in the country, including six of the seven 3-star Michelin restaurants in New York City, have chosen Dark Amber as a marinade or culinary ingredient, even using it to make ice cream. Of course, you don’t have to be a great cook—Crown Maple Farms’ syrups drizzle perfectly over pancakes, too.
1,909 ties ties sold thisthis yearyear 1,909 sold 1,356 photos photos taken at the 1,356 taken atFall the2012 fallphoto 2012shoot photo shoot 474 474 108 108 98 98 40 40
years of sales experience amongst our sellers years of sales experience amongst our sellers room nights our buyers are in market annually room nights our buyers are in market annually years Rodes has been in business years Rodes has been in business people currently employed at Rodes people currently employed at Rodes
CALLING ALL RODES “FAMILY”
CUSTOM CRUISING
F
rom November 15, 2012 through February 27, 2013, Amanresorts will launch a series of extraordinary fiveand seven-night voyages through the Indonesian Archipelago of Raja Ampat, one of the world’s most exceptional marine areas, on their custom-built, 105-foot Amanikan coastal cruiser. Scuba divers can view over 1,300 species of fish, 603 species of hard coral, 57 species of mantis shrimp and 15 mammal species. The islands are home to rare orchids, sea eagles, tree kangaroos and birds of paradise. The very chic Amanikan offers just three luxury cabins with king-sized beds and ensuite bathrooms (suitable for three couples or a single family) and the crew of 10 includes a dive instructor and private chef.
R
EST. 1914 EST. 1914
odes will celebrate its 100th anniversary odes will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2014, in 2014 and we want you to join in the and we want you to join in the festivities! If you festivities. If you, or someone you know, or someone you know has ever worked at Rodes has ever worked at Rodes during our 98-year during our 98-year history, we would like to hear from history, we would like to hear from you. you. Please contact us via email at info@rodes.com. Please contact us via email at For more information, visit rodes.com or “like” us on info@rodes.com. For more information, go to our Facebook page. We want you to help us celebrate our website at rodes.com or “like” us on our our centennial in style! Facebook page. We want you to help us celebrate our centennial in style!
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icons
ducers as they work to bring a Marilyn-themed musical to Broadway. Monroe’s image also graced this year’s poster for the 65th anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival and the cover of Vanity Fair, promoting the release of previously unpublished nudes by photographer Lawrence Schiller. The other blonde bombshells of the 1950s—Jayne Mansfield, Mamie Van Doren, Sheree North and so on—haven’t enjoyed the same posthumous career. “When you look at photographs of her, she has this ability to express herself in so many ways,” says Donna Holder, co-founder of Marilyn Wines. “I don’t think she’s this dumb blonde at all. She was just kind of a straightforward person. A beautiful person.” Why this hold on us in 2012? Contemporaries speak of an emotionally fragile, but highly canny, comic actress. In outtakes from the Laurence Olivier film The Prince and the Showgirl (the setting for My Week With Marilyn), we see an actress repeatedly missing her lines and cues, frustrating the prim Olivier. Yet we also see her vulnerability, beauty and overwhelming desire to be appreciated. When she finally gets a scene right, she nails it. While watching these clips I finally understood the Marilyn Magic, and developed a new classic screen crush. You ache to protect her as much as to kiss her. Norma Jeane Mortenson Baker, that spunky kid from L.A., continues to attract new generations of fans. On Facebook, a quote attributed to Ella Fitzgerald has been making the rounds, in which the African-American jazz singer credits Monroe with expanding Fitzgerald’s fan base into the mainstream. Monroe’s own Facebook fan page boasts 3.2 million fans, over half of which are younger than 25. I recently joined Pinterest, a bulletin board-style website used for organizing all the web stuff you want others to see. One of my “followers” on the site, a young woman of maybe 25, had two boards (categories) I noticed immediately: “Old Hollywood” and “Movies I Love.” Guess whose platinum-haired visage graced both?
THE MARILYN
MYSTIQUE My first on-screen crush was Natalie Wood in
Rebel Without a Cause. I was 16. Wood’s soulful eyes and short-sleeved angora sweaters were magical, though the film was already 30 years old. Marilyn Monroe, on the other hand, wasn’t on my radar. There was the Elton John song, and every cartoon I grew up with did a riff parodying the flying white skirt scene in The Seven Year Itch. I knew she’d been in Playboy, and that was kind of hot. But I was more interested in the current crop of celebrities undressing in my dad’s magazines: Victoria Principal, Barbi Benton, Kim Basinger. Monroe has outlasted and outshined them all, despite having died 50 years ago in August. Last year witnessed My Week With Marilyn (starring Michelle Williams as Monroe), artist Seward Johnson’s 26-foottall cartoony homage, Forever Marilyn, in Chicago (relocated to Palm Springs in May), and a special bottling of the very popular Marilyn Merlot wine, celebrating its own 25th Anniversary. The NBC show Smash chronicles the lives of theater actors, writers and pro-
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GETTY 1/MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES
50 YEARS AFTER HER DEATH, SHE'S STILL TURNING HEADS. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
www .s t e viemacne wy or k .com www.s .st viemacnewy wyor ork
“It was blatantly obvious that the lack of safety measures had to change.” —Sir Jackie Stewart
AMONG THE LEGENDARY DRIVERS IN MOTORSPORTS, FEW COMPARE TO THE FLYING SCOT. BY DAVID A. ROSE In heavy rain at the Belgian Grand Prix at SpaFrancorchamps in 1966, racecar driver Sir Jackie Stewart spun off the track at 165 MPH. He crashed into a telephone pole, went through a shed and was finally stopped by a small barn. Trapped in the car with his leg pinned by the steering column, the cockpit filled with fuel from his ruptured gas tanks and there were no safety personnel to come to his aid. Two racecar drivers—Graham Hill and Bob Bondurant—stopped their cars to help. With no medical facilities at the track, Stewart was placed in the back of a pickup truck. When an ambulance finally came, the driver got lost on the way to the hospital. It was this incident that inspired Stewart to become the advocate for safety in what was then known as The Cruel Sport.
Your contribution to the safety of racecars and racing circuits has changed the sport and saved lives. How do you feel when you visit new circuits or revisit classic ones that now comply with FIA standards? I didn’t do it to gain popularity (in fact it worked out quite the reverse). It was blatantly obvious that the lack of safety measures had to change, but nobody knew quite how and they weren’t about to stick their heads out above the trench. Had I not been a leading driver, I would have been suffocated by the establishment. We had so many deaths during that period that if you raced for five years, there was a two in three chance you were going to die.
The appeal of motorsports now transcends geo-
graphic and gender barriers: it is followed in countries like China, Korea and the Middle East by both men and women (who participate as well as observe). Your thoughts on this change? The whole world is now motorized! The fact that 38% of the Formula 1 audience is now women relates to the fact that 40% of automobile purchases in North America are made by women. Just as women are more discerning about what cars they buy, female drivers like Danica Patrick are excelling in motorsports.
Many people associate American motorsports with NASCAR or Indy Cars, yet we will soon have two Grand Prix in this country (Austin and New Jersey) and we already have great sportscar racing, most notably the Rolex 24 At Daytona. Is this important outside of America? Yes, this race is a global event, just as the World Series is to baseball, or the World Cup to soccer. Certain places have become social events, like the Monaco Grand Prix or Cannes Film Festival or Wimbledon. If you haven’t come to the Indy 500 or the Rolex 24 At Daytona, you haven’t seen the best of motorsports. But many of the great U.S. drivers have spent their entire careers here; too few pack up their bags and come over to Europe.
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ROLEX/TOM O’NEAL
speed
A KNIGHT FOR ALL REASONS
FALL 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.速
Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.
f you’re looking for something light to eat, few things satisfy like sushi. With properties that promote better memory and overall well-being, it’s long been one of the staples of the East. But over the last two decades, Americans have increasingly wanted to make it for themselves. The good news is, it’s not as hard as you may think—but it will require patience. Wing Lam, owner and head chef of Zen Sushi, says making sushi rolls at home comes down to two things: practice and creativity. “It’s like anything: keep at it and [the finished product] will continue to get better,” he says, “…as long as you buy good rice!” Beyond that essential ingredient is seaweed, which forms the outside of the wrap, and then whatever you choose to put inside. It’s best to use rice that’s short and thin, mixed with vinegar, salt and sugar. To save time, Lam suggests buying the pre-made rice mix at your local Asian market (or order online at asianfoodgrocer.com). Now for the seaweed. Ever wonder how chefs are able to wrap it so perfectly around the rice? Using a bamboo mat is their clever secret. Decide how thick you prefer your sushi rolls to be and choose your mat accordingly: the thicker the individual bamboo sticks that make up the mat, the thicker the roll will be. Cut one-half to twothirds of a sheet of your purchased seaweed, place it in the center of the bamboo mat, and cover all except the outer edges of the seaweed with rice. Now comes the creativity. You can put anything
STYLE IS AS MUCH A PART OF SUSHI AS SUBSTANCE.
inside a sushi roll. However, there are certain standbys to consider. The California roll is among the most popular, containing crabmeat, cucumber, avocado and carrot. The Philadelphia roll highlights salmon and cream cheese, sometimes along with avocado or cucumber. Or make up your own! Once you’ve decided, make sure to distribute the ingredients evenly over the width of the seaweed; otherwise, when you cut the roll, some pieces may not contain any filling. Then lift the edge of the bamboo mat and begin to push it forward, rolling the contents within. Slowly open the mat and slice your finished roll into individual sushi pieces. Even once you’ve created your roll, the product still isn’t finished. You’ll notice many sushi establishments don’t just throw them on the plate; style is almost as much a part of sushi as substance. Try artfully drizzling your chosen sauce over the plate in an eyecatching design, or lining up individual sushi pieces to form a pattern. In addition, consider the serving plates you use: smaller ones tend to accentuate the sushi’s own beauty. You can even perfect your at-home sushi experience right down to the music. Choose soft melodies to enhance the already relaxing atmosphere which goes along with eating a light and healthful meal. “Making sushi takes skill, but don’t be afraid to try different things,” Lam emphasizes. “Some of the best flavor combinations come from experimentation.”
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ULTRAPRO
food
YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT OUT TO EAT SUSHI. BY ERIC BUTTERMAN
# 5*+46 (14 '8'4; &#; 016 #0 '8'4; &#; 5*+46
WHY TOO MUCH IS TOO MUCH. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
“RESEARCH REVEALS THAT PEOPLE SCORE HIGHER ON THE HAPPINESS INDEX IF THEY LIMIT THEIR CHOICES.”
TOWN OR COUNTRY? A look from Thom Browne’s fall/winter 2012 collection
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GETTY
end page
ENOUGH ALREADY!
On a recent shopping excursion, I came to the conclusion that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good. Like most people, I don’t enjoy being overwhelmed by an avalanche of irrelevant and dizzying options. Who wants to spend hour upon hour searching for something presentable to wear? You know what I mean. In everyday life, despite the myriad cable channels, YouTube videos, Twitter feeds and social media posts, there’s little that actually holds my attention. This goes for the overabundance of fashion messages as well. Looking at hundreds, if not thousands, of posted images from fall 2012 menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York, I’m tempted to buy nothing at all. The reality is, I’m not inclined to look like a deranged escapee from a Thom Browne fashion show, nor am I ready to wear a skirt. All I really want are some nice-looking, appropriate, slightly slimmer-cut suits and sportcoats to make me look somewhat in the know. As it turns out, it’s not just me: Experts confirm that drowning in decisions is a symptom of society’s current excesses. This is well documented in psychologist Barry Schwartz’s insightful book, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less. “As the number of options increases, the effort required to make a good decision escalates as well, which is one of the reasons that choice can be transformed from a blessing into a burden,” Schwartz writes. “It’s also one of the reasons we don’t always manage the decision-making task effectively.” Once you realize that too many choices are unhealthy, it’s a welcome relief to find a store that offers a well-curated assortment of great clothes you actually want to wear. This removes unnecessary stress from the decision-making process and purportedly raises one’s happiness index. (And who doesn’t want to be happier?) So for those with a penchant for Armani, Zegna, Canali, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, check out your local independent menswear store for a well-edited mix of beautiful clothing. You’ll take comfort in a simplified shopping experience, great service and an easy-to-understand presentation of the best of the best. “Can one desire too much of a good thing?” ponders William Shakespeare in As You Like It. And the answer is, emphatically, yes!
CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
RO D E S F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 2