Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2010
R od e s 2010 TURNAROUND
NEW DECADE NEW ATTITUDE! CLEAN YOUR CLOSET, FREE YOUR SOUL THE POWER OF PURPLE SPRING ESSENTIALS
welcome
“WHEN WE CHANGE WHAT WE WEAR, IT CHANGES HOW WE FEEL.” Yes, this has a lot to do with the weather, whether we are at work, play or attending a great Derby event. We all have our favorite clothes and accessories, but when the seasons change, we change with them. Even the finest cashmere sweater doesn’t feel quite right when the temperatures begin to rise. Suddenly a linen shirt seems like the perfect idea. Of course, it’s not always about the clothes. At Rodes we are always looking for new things that inspire us, so we can share them with you. This season we will bring you Façonnable, a world renowned label, For Him and For Her. You will find more quality items at a wider array of price points than ever before. Yes, we have been listening to you. The themes we hear most inform us that you want quality, luxurious merchandise with value for your money, and you want to help the community. Rodes is locally owned and is synonymous with quality. Buying local is important to everyone, as it helps strengthen the local economy, community and charities. Buying quality is an investment that adds real value to our lives. Quality empowers. Quality looks and feels great. Which brings us back to the beginning: It’s all about how we feel. Whether it’s a beautiful sweater, a dinner party with friends, or something completely new and different, we at Rodes want to make every experience special. I’m sure you feel the same. See you soon, Susan and Howard Vogt
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Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) 1-800-866-3112 www.rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Fran Salamon PRODUCTION MANAGER
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
FEATURES 1 4 36 40
Welcome Letter Rodes Happenings Keep it or Trash it Change Your Look, Change Your Life
FASHION 17 32 34 38 44 50
Rodes Fashion Designer Outlook Fabulous Façonnable Zegna: Well Suited Spring Essentials Purple Reigns
DEPARTMENTS 10 58 60 64 66 70 72
Ask Forum Spirits: Marvelous Mezcals Sports Style: Walt Frazier World Scene Destinations: Cause Traveling Lifestyle: Smokin’! End Page: Italian Flair
Hugh K. Stanton BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2010. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 13, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
HAPPENINGS
Douglas Hannant Fashion Event Douglas Hannant made a rare personal appearance at Rodes For Her on August 26th. The famous designer featured his Fall and Resort 2009 collections. Douglas was also at the 21c Museum Hotel on August 25th to stage a fashion show for the Speed Museum Ball kickoff meeting.
HAPPENINGS
Gentlemen’s Night Rodes For Him hosted a private “Gentlemen’s Night” on October 22nd for Northwestern Mutual to benefit the American Red Cross. Approximately 45 gentlemen
stogies from Arturo Fuente. Arturo himself flew in for the event and brought his “private stash” of cigars. Over $5,400 was raised for the American Red Cross.
Photos by Eric Williams & Rodes Staff
attended and enjoyed premium bourbon, bison and rare
HAPPENINGS
All-American Casual Day On November 7th, Rodes For Him held its semi-annual All-American Casual Day. Sportswear brand representatives from all across the U.S. visited with many of you and enjoyed smokehouse barbecue and American ale. Fun was had by all!
HAPPENINGS
Rodes Seasonal Fashion Events Rodes For Him & For Her host and participate in many events both inside and outside our store. Here is a look at some of our trunk shows, benefits and fashion outings from last season.
HAPPENINGS
Gilda’s Night This year, we celebrate the fifth anniversary of the Gilda’s Night event, which was held at Rodes For Him & For Her on November 13th. In these five years, more than $600,000 has been raised in support of Gilda’s Club’s mission to create welcoming communities of free support for anyone touched by cancer. This year’s event netted a record $200,000 for Gilda’s Club Louisville.
Photos by Mona Simone, Stephanie Fellon & Rodes staff
ASKFORUM Q:
I’m trying not to spend too much money on clothing, but most of my wardrobe is old or dated. What few things can I buy for spring to update my look? If you buy only one piece this season, make it a soft sportcoat. For 2010, sportcoats are slightly slimmer and less structured (some are totally unlined) with softer shoulders. Some styles feature technical details and inside pockets; others have knit insets and can be worn casually or as an outerwear piece. Bottom line, a soft sportcoat takes you anywhere, and ties together the rest of your wardrobe. Beyond that, you might want to buy a soft plaid shirt in pale purple or blue, a few new neckties (they’re a bit narrower this season and look great for business or partying), slim 5-pocket trousers (a departure from jeans) and new boat shoes. Now you’re good to go for spring 2010!
Q:
To avoid looking sloppy, make sure your jeans are slim but not tight and not dragging on the floor
In many circles, dark denim worn with a sportcoat, tie and dress shoes is a perfectly acceptable business look for all but the most formal occasions. Just make sure the jeans are slim but not tight, and a perfect length (not dragging on the floor, not rolled up). Rips, tears, whiskering and very light washes aren’t usually acceptable for business (and often look just plain silly!). Don’t forget to invest in a really good leather jeans belt that’s less formal than the ones you wear with suits. One caveat, however: Unless you’re the president of a large country, don’t assume it’s okay to show up in jeans. If you don’t know the dress code, it’s best to stick with a slim-cut suit—always elegant, fashionable and respectful.
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IMAGE BY DAMIAN SANDONE
The Wall Street Journal recently showed a photo of Russian President Dmitry Medvedev wearing jeans while meeting with President Obama. Is this appropriate? What kind of jeans work best in business situations?
Our fashion experts argued this one for hours and still couldn’t come to a consensus. Obviously, shorts are appropriate on weekends and for recreational activities (and there are so many great styles available this season, from tailored fits to washed plaids, bold colors to reversibles) but traditionalists still recommend long pants at night. That said, a few fashion magazines (and fashion runways) were touting shorts for all occasions, even showing them with sportcoats for a dress-up look. But bottom line: If your girlfriend is mortified, lose the shorts for nighttime (or dump the girlfriend). As we all know, it’s not worth the aggravation…
Q:
My wardrobe consists of suits for work, khakis and golf shirts for weekends. Am I missing something? YES! Trade magazines used to call it “the third wardrobe” and it’s essentially that gray area between dressed up and “schlumpy.” It’s really less complicated than it seems: Buy a few nice pairs of pants that are neither jeans nor khakis (we love linen, colored canvas, seersucker, subtle patterns), a few woven shirts and/or lightweight knits and one great sportcoat. Throw in an accessory or two (a great scarf, a cool belt, fun socks) and you’ve made a minimal investment that will totally upgrade your image. Come into the store and we’ll make it painless.
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IMAGE BY DAMIAN SANDONE
ask forum
Q:
My girlfriend is mortified when I wear shorts out at night but I don’t see what’s wrong with it. When and where should shorts be worn? What kinds of shorts are in style?
ask forum
Q:
I’m spending so much money on premium denim! What’s the best way to care for these expensive jeans to make sure they last ? Denim should be cared for according to manufacturer directions, of course. But since washing can be harmful, try to limit laundering unless the denim is extremely dirty. In fact, several designers’ “raw” denim comes with instructions not to wash for at least six months since washing interferes with the process needed to “break them in.” After the requisite six months, wash the denim inside out in cold water (alone the first time since dark denim tends to bleed). After the first wash, it’s generally safe to wash them with like colors. Most women’s jeans can be washed more frequently, as long as they’re turned inside out in cold water. A final tip: lay your jeans flat to dry, the better to maintain their original color and wash. With designer denim care, as with many fine things in life, less is more.
Q:
The “it” jean for spring 2010 is the skinny fit, in washes from faded blue and white to super dark. The skinny jean is much easier to wear and more flattering (slimming) than you might think; what’s more, it transitions well from day to evening. When deciding which denim style to wear, consider both your body type and what you’re putting on top. If it’s one of this season’s flowy blouses, then you need to wear a narrow leg jean to complement it. With sexy sandals or tucked into a spring boot, your skinny jeans will make a bold fashion statement. On the other hand, bootcut or trouser jeans are best worn with a great heel of some sort. This look works best with a fitted top that comes in at the waist; when paired with a tailored blazer, it even works well for the office. Since jeans these days come in so many different rises, leg widths and washes, come into the store and we’ll help you sort out what works for you.
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IMAGE BY MICHAEL TAMMARO
I’m seeing women’s denim in various styles, from super-skinny dark washes to low-rise faded flares. What’s the “it” jean this season?
BEAUTY. BALANCE. LUXURY.
Orlanda Olsen crafts her pieces with quality and wearability in mind, using only the finest materials. Her equine collection is internationally recognized and she has many new designs each season. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection. . . exclusively at Rodes For Her. “I think my jewelry is a blend of Edge and Elegance. The difference between something nice and something sensational is in the details and using the finest materials. I like to give everyone something to buy and create jewelry that evokes an emotional response.”
WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM
GZf^ [kZg] \ehma^l ]^l^ko^ Z gZf^ [kZg] \e^Zg^k
Spring & Derby
LOOK BOOK .
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“We hope you have as much fun wearing these clothes as we did shooting them for the magazine!”
Ports 1961
Gerard Yosca Jewelry
Stuart Weitzman Shoes
Armani Collezioni
Andy ThĂŞ-Anh
Gerard Yosca Jewelry
Santi Clutch Purse
Stuart Weitzman Shoes
St. John Knits
Christine A. Moore Millinery
Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti
Linsay Moremen Wrap
Rebecca Hook Jewelry
Christine A. Moore Millinery
ETRO
FOR HER: Ciner Jewelry
FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes
Ermenegildo Zegna & Kate Spade
FOR HER: Christine A. Moore Millinery
FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt
Ermenegildo Zegna & Piazza Sempione
FOR HER: Christine A. Moore Millinery & Tory Burch Accessories FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt
Canali & Kate Spade
FOR HER: Christine A. Moore Millinery & Gerard Yosca Jewelry FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt
FAÇONNABLE & Nanette Lepore
Robert Talbott
Wolford
FAÇONNABLE
FOR HER: Sibilia Jewelry & Tory Burch Shoes
FOR HIM: Ferragamo Shoes & Torino Belt
Paper White
Robert Graham & 7 For All Mankind
Robert Graham
CJ by Cookie Johnson
Diane von Furstenberg
FOR HER: DVF Accessories & Tory Burch Shoes
FOR HIM: Martin Dingman Shoes & Torino Elite Belt
Scott Barber & Agave
Scott Barber
Agave
Nat Nast
Martin Dingman Shoes
Torino Belt
Luciano Barbera
Ferragamo Shoes
Torino Belt
ISAIA
Gravati Shoes
DESIGNEROUTLOOK Gianluca Isaia at
ISAIA
Elisabetta Canali at
CANALI
The spring 2010 collection articulates a sartorial retrospective of 1950s charm with the grace and elegance of today’s Hamptons lifestyle, and of course, the traditions and excellence of Neapolitan tailoring. At a mere 150 grams (5.29 ounces), ISAIA’s Aqualight blazer is the star of the collection, a wool/silk blend so seemingly weightless that it can easily be compared to the cotton of a shirt. ISAIA’s summer seersucker cottons have found new life in wool and silk productions. Must have colors are chromatic combinations: natural and turquoise, navy and apple green, gray and orange.
I am inspired by the lifestyle of the modern man, and his informal but stylish pairing of trousers and jackets. The double breasted blazer is the undisputed protagonist of spring 2010. Canali offers it in traditional blue with art deco inspired accents of green, sand and lilac, and mother of pearl or champagne brushed metal buttons. For the more romantic wearer, the Kei jacket celebrates elegance and selfassurance, combining skillfully tailored construction with the soft fit of a shirt; it embodies wearability and comfort.
Brunello Cucinelli at
CUCINELLI
I always draw my inspiration from the streets. I often travel abroad during the year, and I like to observe every detail when I walk along the streets of New York, Paris or Tokyo. I find it especially interesting to see the way young people dress; it is a true source of inspiration. The must have item that a man needs during the summer is the deconstructed blazer (pictured above). It is perfect for every occasion, whether a business dinner or a fresh night out with friends.
Anna Zegna at
ZEGNA Inspiration and essentials from the 2010 collections. By Jillian Sprague
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An easy yet stylishly relaxed approach is revealed with formal two or three piece tailoring. This includes comfortably slim double breasted jackets and soft trousers, and essential shorter jackets also coupled with slimmer trousers. Linen, silk and wool, the three purest of summer’s natural fibers, will be rediscovered as the core of a real gentleman’s wardrobe.
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FABULOUS FAÇONNABLE Clothes with joie de vivre. By Karen Alberg Grossman
It all began in the south of France, in a small tailor shop on Nice’s Rue de Paradis. In 1950, with the French Riviera as his backdrop, Jean Goldberg created a family business based on the principles of style, quality and craftsmanship. Jean’s son Albert worked beside him, learning the craft of a Master Tailor. The Façonnable brand was born, its name derived from the French verb “façonner” (a way of doing) and the English word “fashionable;” its reputation grew thanks to numerous actors in search of evening wear during the Cannes Film Festival. After visiting Brooks Brothers boutiques in New York during the 1960s, Albert Goldberg invented his own vision of menswear, which led to the birth of a “SportChic” lifestyle, featuring fine fabrics in a rich color palette inspired by the Mediterranean. The brand is renowned for superior craftsmanship and an unwavering attention to detail. In 2007, Façonnable was acquired by M1 Group; its CEO Maher Mikati, an MBA with a
“WHAT I’D LIKE OUR CUSTOMERS TO FEEL WHEN WEARING OUR PRODUCT IS THAT THEY’VE BEEN TRANSPORTED TO THE FRENCH RIVIERA...”—MAHER MIKATI strong communications background, is now the acting brand manager. “I’ve personally been a Façonnable customer since the early ’90s, along with my father and uncle, who have always worn Façonnable. So I’m very familiar with the brand, its heritage and its hallmarks of modern classicism, color and effortless style.” According to Mikati, the three items a guy must have for spring 2010: iconic shirts in exclusive patterns, colorful pants and very light outerwear pieces. “In a sense, we’re not just in the business of making garments, we’re in the business of exporting a lifestyle, a way of life, a joie de vivre that is unique to the French Riviera.”
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KEEP IT OR TRASH IT
Clean your closet, free your soul… By Nick Ockert My closet was a puzzle of mismatched pieces, outdated styles and strange colors. I longed for a solution to the chaos, knowing that to simplify my closet would be to simplify my life. After much research (and experimentation), here are five foolproof criteria to follow: Wear. If it’s worn, frayed, faded, ripped or rippled (as some suits tend to be after too many dry cleanings), throw it out! Replenish. Replace the classics you still love (the perfect charcoal suit and navy blazer, white and blue oxford shirts, great jeans and khakis) but remember that styles evolve and today’s classics are not exactly the same as yesterday’s. Dormancy. If you haven’t worn it in two years, you’re probably not ever going to, so donate your inactive pieces to those in need. If you’re holding onto clothes that are outdated because you think these styles will come back, trust me: they won’t. We offer a complimentary closet cleaning service, and we’d be happy to send one of our trained associates to your home to help you make the tough decisions. Fit. If you’ve gained or lost a little weight, a good tailor might be able to help. But if you’ve changed more than a size, even a great tailor may not be enough. What’s more, expensive alterations might not be worth it, especially when you can find so much terrific new fashion in stores these days. Boredom. If your wardrobe is not exciting you, it’s not likely to excite anyone else, so add a few new pieces for a boost. To quote the writer Isaac Bashevis Singer, “What a strange power there is in clothing!” And what a strange and liberating power in an organized closet!
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IMAGE BY DAMIAN SANDONE
closet how-to
In a quandry and frozen with confusion by your outdated closet? We’ve got some tips on whether to
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WELL SUITED
From textiles to technology, Ermenegildo Zegna’s got menswear covered. By William Kissel Italian clothier Ermenegildo Zegna had a breakthrough three years ago when it introduced the iJacket, a featherweight garment featuring a built-in touch control panel on the sleeve, allowing a man to interface with his iPod without ever removing it from his inside chest pocket. Called Smart Clothing technology, it paved the way for last year’s Solar jacket, which has a built-in solar cell to help keep your personal electronics perpetually charged. Now Zegna has gone even further with the introduction of Elements, the first jacket to automatically regulate your body temperature in all weather situations. If your only perception of Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) is as a suit maker, you might be surprised to know that this family-owned company, celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, has been on the cutting edge of fashion since its inception in 1910.
A FABRIC MAKER, A CLOTHING LABEL, A SHOE AND LEATHER GOODS BRAND, AND A PHILANTHROPIC ENTITY KNOWN FOR ITS TIRELESS EFFORTS ON BEHALF OF THE ENVIRONMENT, THE CONNECTION BETWEEN ALL THINGS ZEGNA IS THE COMPANY’S PREOCCUPATION WITH CREATIVITY AND TECHNOLOGY. 38 FORUM
CHECK OUT ZEGNA’S SPRING COLLECTION OF ELEGANTLY-STYLED SPORTSWEAR AND SUITS, MOST OF WHICH ARE REMARKABLY REMINISCENT OF THOSE WORN BY THE GATSBY GENERATION OF THE 1920S. This season Zegna’s textile team is particularly fond of “Crossover” fabrics made from divergent fiber sources, such as a proprietary blend of cashmere and cotton used to create what the company calls Cashco. “These two fibers are normally used for different seasons, climates and lifestyles. But we brought them together to create a soft and silky fabric that is both precious and sporty,” explains co-chief executive Gildo Zegna, a fourth generation clothier named for the company’s founder. Other Crossover fabrics are made from blends of silk, linen and wool to give a light and airy feeling to typically heavyweight Prince of Wales and other check patterns. Zegna says such cloths transcend seasons to greatly extend the life of one’s wardrobe, and are the result of 2,000 seasonal fabric experiments, only a handful of which ultimately end up in Zegna’s three signature clothing lines: Ermenegildo Zegna, Zegna Sport and Z Zegna. While fabric is Zegna’s history, suit making has become the family’s heritage. The generation currently running the business grew up, like their fathers and grandfathers, “eating bread and jackets,” as one Italian tailor described such an all-
consuming passion. Zegna first put its signature on tailored clothing in the 1960s and a decade later became a world leader in the field with the invention of made-to-measure, a half-machine/half-handmade hybrid style of custom suit making that is today offered by nearly every clothing brand in the world. At a time when designer brands like Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent were offering the same house style to every man wearing their suits, Zegna’s idea to let men select their own fabrics and details— in essence design their own suits— became a watershed moment for both Zegna and, subsequently, the entire menswear industry. eople think we are developing all these products to satisfy our own egos. But it’s really out of necessity,” says Anna Zegna, VP of worldwide communications, noting the importance of a global brand offering a full range of products and pricepoints in order to satisfy a variety of tastes and needs. That includes everything from $200 jeans and $395 sneakers to $5,000 limited edition alligator shoes and $20,000
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custom-made suits cut from the company’s own Vellus Aureum, a wool so rare there is only enough cloth to produce 20 suits. “We are using more luxurious materials and adding more hand make in our made-to-measure suits than we did in the past,” says Gildo. But that is not at the expense of the broader luxury consumer and the current economy that “demands we create more products that are more affordable,” he adds. Despite so much diversification, Zegna still makes some of the finest suits and sportcoats in the world. What’s more, because the company is vertically integrated (meaning it produces its own fabrics and the finished clothing made from them), prices are relatively reasonable. “It’s not just about good quality, but also innovation in style and, above all, a great fit,” explains Gildo, noting that Zegna’s goal has always been to offer a taste of Italian fashion without being too outspoken. “Any company capable of combining all three is at the top,” he says with a pause before adding: “We’re not yet at the top, but we’re certainly moving in that direction.”
style
If your appearance is ordinary, people will think your outlook is ordinary.
CHANGE YOUR LOOK CHANGE YOUR LIFE
Appearance matters, today more than ever. By Frank A. Schipani In the past year or so, how well have you been doing in your business dealings? In your personal life? If your answer is “great” and you’re independently wealthy and set for life, then read no further. But if you’re not in a blissful financial state and are still competing professionally or romantically, read on. A recent Harvard study found that when someone meets you for the first time, their immediate sense of who you are is based 55 percent on your appearance and demeanor, 38 percent on your tone of voice and only 7 percent on what you say. Clearly, it’s critical to look good and present ourselves in a way that invites interest, attention and confidence, not only to new acquaintances but also to those we already know and work with. New clothes provide affirmation that we care about ourselves and value how people consider us. If you accept this premise, let’s examine how we can invest in ourselves for maximum success. Some of us are blessed with great
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genes, e.g. a trim body and a strong heart. That said, most of us need to do some form of conditioning to stay healthy. (And without good health, does it matter how good we look in clothes?) Before all else, commit yourself to regular exercise and healthy eating. Now, let’s start at the top: Is your hair cut in a modern style and kept healthy-looking with the right maintenance? If you’re a guy and you don’t know, ask your favorite lady for a reality check. Are you treating your face with a good skin conditioner? The old days of throwing on some alcohol-based aftershave (a killer for skin, but who knew?) are long gone. Keep your face and hands well moisturized; they’re the ‘tools’ of communication for everything you do. Okay, enough with the healthy body—let’s get to covering it! Perception is everything: If your clothing looks dated, people will assume your outlook, your attitude, your services are dated! Think of
ADD BROWN SHOES TO YOUR FOOTWEAR WARDROBE; THEY CAN BE WORN WITH ALL KINDS OF SUITS (DESPITE ARCHAIC THEORIES THAT GRAY OR NAVY SUITS REQUIRE BLACK SHOES). Buy a few cardigan sweaters in chocolate, camel, grey and black and use them as blazers paired with dress pants or jeans. Add those brown suede slip-ons (you might want to invest in a black pair too). Invest in a modern topcoat that’s shorter than those currently in your closet. As long as it covers your suit
COURTESY OF EYEBOBS
“If you wear glasses, are they of a modern style? Eyewear is not just a visual aide, but also a ‘picture frame’ for your eyes, which are the mirror of your soul.”
new clothes as an investment in yourself and in your career. ou shop in this store, ranked by MR Magazine (the leading men’s fashion trade journal) as one of the best in the country (i.e. knowledgeable sellers and the highest quality clothing one can buy). So why not ask one of our highly-trained sales professionals for a complimentary assessment of your closet? We guarantee you’ll be glad you did. Wear current suits. Although men’s clothing trends evolve gradually and suits are unlikely to go out of style from one year to the next, after a few years they do tend to look dated. (And suits in 2010 are clearly trimmer and more fitted than they were a few years back!) Wear distinctive shirts and ties. The difference between looking good and looking great is often not much more than adding some interesting colors and patterns to a classic wardrobe. Try a pocket square for extra flair. Try wearing fitted jeans with a navy blazer, brown suede shoes and a cool shirt. (Just make sure the jeans and jacket are close-fitting but comfortable.) Or try the same look with a shirt and tie for a very modern take on tailored. Keep your jacket buttoned in order to look trimmer. This look is forever smart and will take you anywhere!
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jacket, it works with both dress and casual wear. Select a pair of ‘dress’ sneakers in a neutral shade of brown or tan to look casual but not schlumpy. I’m not talking running shoes, but rather ‘designer styles’ that many companies are now showing. These are a comfortable and stylish must for any modern man’s wardrobe. And lastly, have some fun with accessories, like a bold cashmere scarf, unique cuff links, a distinctive hat, colorful buttery-soft leather gloves and the like. Often, accessories are the best (and most affordable) way to add personality to your appearance and take your look from ordinary to exceptional.
DARK & DRESSY SUIT
KEY ITEMS YOU NEED TO LOOK YOUR BEST THIS SPRING
SPRING ESSENTIALS POWER JEANS
Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR Photography by DAMIAN SANDONE
FINE-GAUGE CASHMERE SWEATER
5-POCKET PANT
PRINTED SWIM TRUNK
CREASE RESISTANT TRAVEL BLAZER
WASHED PLAID SHORT THE BOAT SHOE
WASHED PLAID COTTON SPORTSHIRT TECHNICAL OUTERWEAR
WASHED COTTON KNITS
KNIT BLAZER COMFY WEEKEND WEAR
VINTAGE PREP
STANDOUT ACCESSORIES
MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES A S S I S TA N T: TA R A F E R R I H A I R A N D M A K E U P : A L B E RT O M A C H U C A ELLIS MCCREADIE: MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT J A M E S M AT H I E U : N E W Y O R K M O D E L M A N A G E M E N T B E N O I T: N E W Y O R K M O D E L M A N A G E M E N T
Update your wardrobe with touches of purple—rich, royal and ever remarkable. In suits, sweaters, shirts and accessories, Spring 2010 fashion is popping with purple.
PURPLE REIGNS
Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR Photography by MICHAEL TAMMARO
MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES ASSISTANT: TARA FERRI HAIR: LUKE BAKER FOR SEE MANAGEMENT MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS FOR SEE MANAGEMENT MODEL: RACHAEL SCOTT FOR MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT MODEL: ERIK ROCCA/FOR DNA MODEL MANAGEMENT JEWELRY BY ROBIN ROTENIER
spirits
“PARA TODO MAL, MEZCAL Y PARA TODO BIEN TAMBIEN.” FOR EVERYTHING BAD, MEZCAL, AND FOR EVERYTHING GOOD, TOO.
MARVELOUS MEZCALS
Tequila isn’t the only premium spirit South of the Border. By Robert Haynes-Peterson
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who like single malts, because it has a similar smoky nature,” Merino continues. Most mezcal is still handcrafted in small batches and cooked in underground ovens, adding a smoky, peaty complexity. Like tequilas, they can be aged (though for the most part they aren’t). “We have one of the few aged mezcals on the market,” says John Rexer, founder of Ilegal Mezcal. “The idea is to never bury the flavor of the agave.” Flavorful they are, cheap and harsh they don’t have to be. Premium and super-premium mezcals are entering the U.S. market at a surprising clip. Sombra ($50), part of the Classic and Vintage Artisanal Spirits portfolio, is an excellent place to start: Smoky and filling on the mouth, it’s rich like a single malt and crafted for sipping (as are most mezcals). When you’re ready to explore, hunt down Mijes Reposado ($65), a distinctive spicy, peaty spirit with iodine notes (that’s a good thing). If you insist on having a bug at the bottom of your bottle, Scorpion Mezcal is a high-quality product, boasting a remarkable Gran Reserva 7-Year-Old ($200) with, you guessed it, a scorpion resting at the bottom.
Sombra Mezcal, from Oaxaca, is a far cry from the wormsoaked hooch you thought was mezcal in college
I M A G E S C O U R T E S Y O F S O M B R A M E Z C A L / C L A S S I C A N D V I N TA G E A R T I S A N A L S P I R I T S
It took 10 long years, but you know your tequilas. You even know why Patron isn’t what it was a decade ago. But have you been paying attention to Mezcal, tequila’s hermano? Mezcal—that harsh stuff with the worm in it you got sick on in college—has cleaned up good and is ready for another look. “Mezcal is where tequila was several years ago, in terms of acceptance,” says Junior Merino, the Mexican-born “Liquid Chef” and the brains behind the delectable cocktail menus at Manhattan’s Macondo and Rayuela restaurants. In fact, tequila is a mezcal, albeit one restricted to a specific kind of agave (the Blue Weber) and three specific growing/distilling regions of Mexico. Mezcal, on the other hand, can use up to 25 or 30 varieties of the 300 types of agave growing in Mexico (impacting the nose and flavor profile), and originates in several regions (though much mezcal hails from the state of Oaxaca). “There’s even a mezcal, called raicilla, distilled in the tequila region,” says Merino. “Like the Super Tuscans, it’s a tequila style that doesn’t follow the rules set for what can be called ‘tequila.’” “I recommend mezcal to people
WALT FRAZIER
A study in class and banking off the glass. By James Benton It was the winter of ’73 in Memphis and I was a house bound pre-pubescent basketball junkie. I nailed an offbalance jumper while falling into my closet and just then, my mom’s egg-timer dinged to signify that I had led my imaginary team (the Memphis Elvises) to a stunning last second victory over the heavily favored New York Knicks in my personal Nerf Basketball Association Championship game. So you can imagine my excitement when, decades later, I was approached about interviewing Hall of Famer and New York Knick great Walt Frazier. Meeting him was like my favorite basketball card coming to life. He was noted for being one of the ‘big guards’ before big guards were en vogue. The 6’4” Frazier was the kind of player who could post you up all day, then knock down 20 footers ’til he got bored—and with all those steals, he was the best pickpocket in the Garden! Having made the All-Defense Team seven times, playing ball against him could be summed up in two words: not fun. Something of a fashion plate from the get-go, Frazier grew up in Atlanta in the ’50s and ’60s. At a young age, Walt’s mother instilled in him the importance of looking good. Coming of age in a challenging era—when African Americans were working to clear a lot of societal hurdles—she let him know that he was special, and that his image would be a symbol of himself, of his family and his ethnicity. A handsome, tall and substantially refined gentleman, Frazier was blessed with a loving family that encouraged not only strength of personal character but also an awareness of leadership—on and off the hardwood. Growing up in the South, contending with segregation, Frazier represented more than just him-
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sports style
AT A YOUNG AGE, WALT’S MOTHER INSTILLED IN HIM THE IMPORTANCE OF LOOKING GOOD.
four times, Frazier brought Championships to the Garden in 1970 and 1973. His on-court successes were somewhat mirrored by his expanded fashion palette. “I migrated to the fur coats, the Rolls Royce… I never liked custom made because it took two or three weeks—plus I didn’t know about the fabrics.” More of an actor than a reactor, Frazier went on the offensive by checking out local tailors, learning about fabrics and developing a vision that would embody his tastes. “I found Mohan’s Custom Tailors at 42nd and Vanderbilt. They ran ads for taller guys in The Times. I would also walk Delancey Street and find unique fabrics, and generally develop my own creations. I had my own style: I liked pizzazz, nothing mundane, I like jazzy. I always liked grays, blues, flannels and plaids. I still have the same mink coats—my black one and the white one. This year I’m into cowboy boots— Lucchese boots are so comfortable once you break them in, you don’t want to take them off!” Like most things, men’s fashion’s relationship with the NBA has had its ups and downs. In a recent article, Kenny Smith, an NBA analyst for TNT, chimed in with his NBA fashion leaders of previous eras: Wilt Chamberlain in the ’60s, Walt Frazier in the ’70s, Chuck Daley in the ’80s, Pat Riley and Alan Iverson in the ’90s, and for the new millennium, Lebron James. In 2005, the commissioner of the NBA laid down a stricter dress code that basically outlawed the culturally driven fashion trends of the moment. Frazier felt that “it was long overdue—tall guys look good in a suit! In my day, our idols were guys like the Four Tops. Until the 2005 dress code took effect, the
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self: Mrs. Frazier taught him to be an ambassador for his race. “My mom said it isn’t always about the quality [of what you wear], but about carrying yourself with dignity and making the most of what you have,” Frazier says. thletic to the max, he excelled at football, baseball and basketball at Howard High in Atlanta. Accepting a scholarship to Southern Illinois University, his college career was capped off with the NIT Championship at the basketball Mecca of the world: Madison Square Garden. Little did he know at 18years-old that he was saying hello to his new home, a place where he would embark on a journey that elevated him to icon status. Therein lies the impetus for Walt Frazier to embrace and exude a classy image. Fortunately, he had an innate appreciation for sharp, distinctive, fashionable clothing. “I hear a different drummer. I had such an eccentric dad; I remember as a kid trying on my daddy's nice clothes, and that was the start.” Nicknamed “Clyde” after the 1967 film Bonnie and Clyde starring Warren Beatty (Frazier loved the hat worn by Beatty’s character), Frazier was the resident clothes horse of the Knicks team. “I came to New York wearing shirts with button down collars and penny loafers, but back then my teammates used to wear suits and ties, like the Temptations. So early on there were some good dressers. Dick Barnett was a good dresser.” (One could even say that Frazier and Barnett were the NBA’s best dressed in addition to being its best backcourt.) A First Team All-NBA selection
idols were the rappers, lots of really casual looking guys.” I would be remiss not to acknowledge the substantial contributions Walt Frazier still makes to his beloved Knickerbockers. Serving as the voice of the Knicks for the MSG Network, Frazier remains an astute observer of the team, which in recent years has caused equal parts pleasure and pain (at the moment, the Knicks’ record is very unFrazier-like). Perhaps the most important gift from Walt Frazier to us men is this advice: Comport yourself with dignity, and have the courage and imagination to present yourself as an individual. Define your own fashion—don’t let fashion define you.
SMALL LUXURY HOTELS OF THE WORLD
world scene
ROYAL WELCOME
If a stark, modern high-rise hotel isn't your cup of tea, try The Goring. Quintessentially English, gently unconventional, and right around the corner from Buckingham Palace, the five-star Goring dates back to 1910 and is still owned and run by the same family. The charismatic staff wears bright blue or pink ties decorated with sheep and welcomes guests like old friends. The decor is magnificently traditional, the amenities state of the art. There's even a historical connection with the States: During World War I the hotel was headquarters for American officers stationed in London. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, The Goring isn't just a place to sleep, it's a lovely part of the London experience.
“The man who is tired of London is tired of life.”—Samuel Johnson By Donald Charles Richardson
MYSTERY TOUR
IMAGE COURTESY OF HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES
MODERN ENGLISH
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While Kensington Palace undergoes renovations this spring in preparation for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, the historic royal home will become "The Enchanted Palace," a unique experience combining fashion, live theatre and spectacle. Mysterious characters will lead visitors on a journey through the palace to learn its tales of love and hate, surprise and sadness, secrets and jealousy. In the magnificent state apartments, guests will encounter a series of installations featuring contemporary fashion by both leading and up-and-coming designers, inspired by the palace’s Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection.
Few countries can put on a show like England, where pageantry is a way of life. Naturally, uniforms are an integral part of the spectacle. And uniforms did much to inspire Savile Row tailoring, designed to make a man look classic and well-proportioned. Historically, well turned-out gentlemen around the world have looked to Savile Row for the style and structure of their suits. This year the legendary street is advocating natural shoulders, two-button jackets, double-breasted suits, flatfront trousers and patterns such as checks and plaids. Men who shop in America’s finest men’s stores can buy Savile Row-inspired suits right here in the U.S.
ANTIQUE FANCY
A pleasant stroll down historic Kensington Church Street offers the chance to visit over 60 antiques shops. Stop in at Rafferty & Walwyn Ltd. and discover a captivating collection of period English clocks from the 17th to 19th centuries crafted in mahogany, walnut, ebony, tortoiseshell, ormolu, brass, or marble. Ask the owners to let you chose one of six different songs to play on the fanciful musical bracket clock by Benjamin Barber when, on the hour, the windmill turns, lovers disappear behind a curtain and a drummer strikes the time. Right down the street, there's Michael German Antiques Ltd., where you'll find a striking collection of over 1,000 canes. A standout from 1880 has a tortoiseshell veneer shaft and an 18K gold handle inset with precious stones. Clocks and canes make wonderful gifts or souvenirs and (traveler's tip) if you buy one over 100 years old, you don't have to pay duty.
HAIR APPARENT
The tradition of British barbering goes back over two centuries. Today, the latest exponent of the craft bows politely to the institution while making a clear cut into the future. Murdock London Barbers and Gentleman's Grooming has three locations in the trendiest and most fashionable parts of the city. They offer the classic shave with badger brush, moustache and beard trims, and beard re-shaping as well as a conservative hair trim, manicure and shoe polishing. More than a staid British barbershop, these artists can also modernize your look with a contemporary haircut. Make it your first stop to improve for all those vacation photographs.
SCOTTISH LAIR
Future chief of the legendary Macdonald clan, Ranald Macdonald is also the captain of Boisdale of Belgravia, one of London's most memorable restaurants. You can savor a simple meal at the bar or dine lavishly on Scottish salmon, the game of the day, or grass-fed Aberdeen beef. There's an impressive wine list that ranges from Vina del Alba Albarino by the glass for ÂŁ5.75 to a 1999 Richebourg Gros Frere et Soeur for ÂŁ290 a bottle, along with superb clarets and ports, a separate whiskey list, and a dessert menu featuring roast Victorian plums. The Boisdale Cigar Terrace on the roof boasts cigars from all over the world (including 120 different sizes and vintages of Cuban cigars). To keep the aficionado comfortable, the lounge features cushions, sofas and armchairs in the traditional Macdonald tartan and cashmere blankets in Boisdale livery brought over especially from Scotland.
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destinations
BECOME MORE DEEPLY IMMERSED IN A PLACE YOU’VE ALWAYS DREAMED OF VISITING.
CAUSE TRAVELING
Voluntourism gets a much-needed dose of fun. By Jillian Sprague
ervice trips have been trendy for a few years, so by now most people know that a “voluntour” offers the opportunity to give back all over the world. But with working Americans logging more hours than ever in a tough economy, all but the most selfless among us are craving fun when we finally get time off. Luckily, it’s no longer necessary to forego a good time when voluntouring. A new wave of trips has met the demand for service paired with the perfect amount of letting loose. Planeterra, a non-profit eco-tourism firm, recently added new “independent tours” to its roster, allowing travelers to combine four or more days of volunteer work with adventure activities, sightseeing and downtime. Says director Richard G. Edwards, “Our programs are designed with great care, so that everyone genuinely benefits while having fun learning about each other’s cultures.” Think of voluntourism as the
chance to go somewhere you wouldn’t have gone otherwise, or to become more deeply immersed in a place you’ve always dreamed of visiting. A senior-level business manager by day, Leslie Oman of Toronto had bigger dreams. “I made it a personal goal to see all of the New Seven Wonders of the World,” she says, “and I thought it would be great to combine my travels with volunteering all over the world.” The first spot on Oman’s list was Macchu Picchu, and after some research, she found an itinerary that provided the best of both worlds. “I was hoping to really learn about the culture when I visited. On most trips to Peru, you fly in, get on a bus, and by day two you’re already hiking the Inca Trail. Then you leave the next day. But on my trip, we worked for several days in an atrisk children’s center, then we went to a village in the Sacred Valley and stayed with a “village Mama,” helping with the crops and meal preparation. By the time I was hiking the Inca Trail, I had a deep understand-
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The most rewarding experience in any destination is getting to know the local people, learning firsthand about their culture
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“BY THE TIME I WAS HIKING THE INCA TRAIL, I HAD A DEEP UNDERSTANDING OF THE CULTURE, HISTORY AND STRUGGLES OF THE PEOPLE OF PERU.” Head to beautiful Costa Rica for some fun in the sun as you care for nesting sea turtles and their eggs
ing of the culture, history and struggles of the people of Peru.” If you don’t have a specific destination in mind, choose a voluntour that lets you follow your passion. Animal lovers can travel with Biosphere Expeditions to monitor wolf and lynx populations in the Tatra Mountains of Slovakia. More of a humanitarian? Asia Transpacific Journeys will send you to Myanmar, where you’ll make ceramic water filters that provide drinking water to underdeveloped parts of rural Asia. When you’ve had fun, explored your interests and done something to help those who really need it, you
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can feel good about yourself and return to the daily grind with renewed energy—and unforgettable memories.
For information on these and other itineraries, check out planeterra.org, biosphere-expeditions.org and asiatranspacific.com.
lifestyle
SMOKIN’!
An old ritual, a new generation… By Karen Alberg Grossman
lthough cigar smoking is still a controversial and politically charged topic, cigar smokers are more enthusiastic than ever about their passion. For this reason, charity events disguised as “Gentlemen’s Nights” have become hugely successful across the country. Upscale establishments that offer rare stogies from prestigious makers along with premium bourbon, beer and bison share wonderful tales of camaraderie, storytelling and laughter. Here, we chat with an important couple in the cigar industry: Arturo and Vienna Fuente. Arturo’s father started the Tampa Sweethearts Cigar Company in Tampa; his brother now continues it in the Dominican Republic.
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Cigar smoking is not just a passion, it’s a celebration of life!” —Vienna Fuente
Arturo: Compared to what? Remember, Ybor City (Tampa) was once the cigar capital of the world, with 12,000 workers and 700 million cigars produced annually… The challenge recently has been local, state and federal regulation: both no-smoking laws and the increased tobacco tax, which is
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How’s business?
now a dollar per cigar versus five cents. That said, we’ve been busy. We were hit hard when the tax happened in April but since then, it’s coming back little by little…
Why do you think that is? Vienna: People anticipated the tax and began hoarding cigars but by now, the stash is running out. With the recession, they might buy more economically but they’re still buying. Cigar smoking is not just a passion, it’s a celebration of life! It’s also a status thing. And a social thing. It’s a whole ritual that’s extremely satisfying.
Sounds like you’re a cigar smoker… ienna: I didn’t start until three years ago. I was with a friend at a club on a Friday night and people were sitting around outside the restaurant, relaxing with after-dinner drinks, coffee and cigars. Cigar smoking is not so much about smoking (after all, you don’t inhale) and more about taking your time, being with friends and family, really connecting and talking to each other. It’s about sharing and bonding and relaxing.
about pride. I’m always amazed by how people react to Arturo: everyone seems in awe of this wonderful humble man and his connection to the cigar business. People want to learn from him so we always make new friends. In Louisville, we met so many great people; we can’t wait to go back for Derby!
What makes a great cigar? Arturo: There are many factors to consider, the first of which is one’s personal taste. Then there’s the length of the ash. There are two kinds of cigar fillers: long and short. My father always liked a short filler that was a blend of pieces from various other cigars. Then there’s the strength to consider, and whether the cigar is full bodied, whether it has a dark or light wrapper. (The
wrapper is what gives the flavor; I personally like a mixture of dark and light.) Then there’s the body. Feel the cigar from top to bottom; if there’s a bump or an empty space, it’s no good. Then there’s the draw: it can’t be too tight or too loose. Bottom line, a great cigar is about personal taste, flavor, strength and a consistent, smooth burn.
Any other passions, besides cigars? Arturo: My primary passion is my family: I feel very lucky to have them both in my business and in my life. Beyond that, I really love nice clothes. Some of my favorites are from Burberry, Nat Nast, Robert Graham and Zegna. I have to admit that after the Gentlemen’s Night event at Rodes, I stayed late at the store for some major shopping!
“MY FATHER WOULD SMOKE TEN CIGARS A DAY WITH HIS COFFEE: HE HAD TO TEST ALL HIS BRANDS.”—ARTURO FUENTE
I understand Arturo is retiring. Arturo: I’m semi-retired… Vienna: We’re realistic. There’s a 25year age difference between us, we’ve been married just a year and we want to travel and spend time together. My husband’s son Arturo Jr. has been very involved in the business so he’s the perfect person to take it to the next level. Other family members (nephews, grandchildren) are also contributing their talents.
How much do you smoke? Arturo: I’m a social cigar smoker: a few times a month Vienna and I share a cigar.
Do you enjoy Gentlemen’s Night events? Vienna: Tremendously. For me, it’s
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He was the wrong man in the right clothes.
ITALIAN FLAIR
Effortless dressing never looked so good. By Beth Bernstein Before Paolo, I’d never met a guy whose suits, shirts and accessories were custom made. Since high school, I had dated a certain type: creative and soulful with a somewhat disheveled wardrobe to match. I finally realized these were not the kind of guys likely to commit to much beyond poetry readings. Paolo seemed perfect in every way. During our first dinner together, I noticed the small initials sewn into his suit jacket, the intricate enamel cuff links, the vintage watch and the beautiful eggplant silk tie. I was also falling in love with the sexy accent, the dry wit and the confidence with which he ordered dinner. Our next outing was casual—he showed up wearing Levi’s 501s and a T-shirt. Like many Italian-born men, he was able to pull it off effortlessly. What is it about Italian culture that allows men to care about fashion and grooming without stigma? “When I turned 17, my father presented me with a beautiful JaegerLeCoultre timepiece,” Paolo once told me. “We lived in Milan and many of the boys receive watches as graduation gifts.” In contrast, my American-born brothers received
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down payments for their first cars. Today, they still think that dressing for dinner means putting on a Gap sport shirt rather than a favorite football jersey. As our relationship evolved, I learned of Paolo’s penchant for mixing colors, for knowing the difference between cordovan and chocolate brown. He never got bored while I tried on clothes, making sure that the shoulders on a lambskin jacket fit me perfectly and that the leather was hand-stitched. For Paolo, it wasn’t about labels or impressing people. It was about personal style and an inherent ability to dress with a certain nonchalance. Ultimately, it was this nonchalance that did us in. Although he could easily commit to French cuffs, Paolo was no closer to making a commitment to me than the artistic types of my past had been. He was the wrong man in the right clothes. Still, I have hope. While American men I meet these days rarely dress as well as Paolo, I’m noticing more cashmere and custom tailoring than ever before. And that cute guy who just smiled at me? He’s wearing cuff links with his 501s. I’m smiling back.
Louisville’s Finest
September/October 2008 $4.25
Homes, Dining, Travel, Wine, Antiques & More
Louisville’s Finest Magazine slmag.net
celebrating
Style and Performance MARIANO RIVERA wears the new Kei Jacket