R od e s FORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/SS 2019
R o d e s S S 2 0 1 9 F O R U M / T H E S U B S T A N C E O F S T Y L E
THE ART OF DRESSING WELL
JAGUAR GOES HIGH VOLTAGE
R O D E S . C O M
GENTS, BEST WAYS TO BUZZ, TRIM, TWEEZE
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CONTENTS
spring/ summer 2019
FEATURES SPRING STYLE GUIDE
16
Look sharp with seven of the hottest looks for men.
JAGUAR ELECTRIFIED
24
The British carmaker’s first all-electric model is pure luxury.
ARTISTIC MUSINGS
26
A modern day Warhol reflects on why art still matters.
DERBY DAY STYLE
30
Hats off to the revered Kentucky tradition of mixing high stakes racing with high fashion.
30
SLIDE INTO SUMMER
36
These shoe styles will help you take an easy, breezy approach to looking great this season.
BODIES IN MOTION
40
Lightweight luxury performance fabrics will keep you comfortable and looking sophisticated.
DEPARTMENTS Memo
4
At Rodes, we keep up with the times while staying true to our roots. 6
First Person
Send the right message and dress for success. 8
The Rodes Guide
A fashionista’s dream come true, a new Lafayette 148 shop and much, much more. 10
Ask Jim
Fashion tips every man can appreciate. 12
Elements of Style
Add a pop of color in any hue of the rainbow. 14
Essentials
Check out the must-have men’s dress shoes and sneakers for the season. 28
Ask Susan
Your seasonal style questions get answered. 38
Artisan
Boglioli has mastered the soft, sporty jacket. 44
Grooming
Get the 411 on buzzing, trimming and tweezing to look your best. 46
At Your Service
Rodes goes above and beyond to make every shopping experience special.
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©2019 A Genesco Company
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WELCOME
the
Rodes
RODES 4938 Brownsboro Road Louisville, KY 40222
502.753.RODES (7633) rodes.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Rita Guarna CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stephen Vitarbo SENIOR EDITOR Daria Meoli SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Darius Amos ART DIRECTOR Victoria Beall CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Marty Hackey, Everett Potter, Donna Rolando, Nayda Rondon, Frank Schipani EDITOR-AT-LARGE, FOUNDING EDITOR Karen Alberg Grossman PUBLISHING STAFF PUBLISHER Shae Marcus NATIONAL BRAND MANAGER Monica Delli Santi PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Menghi DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION AND CIRCULATION Christine Hamel ADVERTISING SERVICES DIRECTOR Jacquelynn Fischer
What’s in store for spring The one constant in life is change. And life, like fashion, changes quickly. At Rodes, our core values remain rooted. How we service you, what brands, fabrications and styles we curate, and our family of specialists constantly evolve. It is that delicate balance of experience and speed of adaptation that has allowed us to serve you for 105 years! Come see our newly remodeled ladies’ shoe and handbag department offering the greatest fashion-forward collections, with names like Prada, Pedro García, Jimmy Choo, Chloé and Gucci. We have doubled our space and are truly ecstatic to be able to showcase these brands at Rodes. Drop in any time. The parking is plentiful, the mood is relaxing and our family makes shopping fun. See you around town.
Susan and Howard Vogt
GRAPHIC DESIGNER, AD SERVICES Violeta Mulaj ACCOUNTING Agnes Alves, Megan Frank PUBLISHED BY CHAIRMAN Carroll V. Dowden PRESIDENT & CEO Mark Dowden SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS Shae Marcus, Carl Olsen VICE PRESIDENTS Nigel Edelshain, Thomas Flannery, Rita Guarna, Christine Hamel
RODES magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656, in association with RODES. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, RODES, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, RODES Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.
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first person
serving
NOTICE
People judge by appearance. Be sure to send the right message and dress for success. By Frank Schipani
I
n a biography about Aristotle Onassis, I read a great anecdote on image. Onassis was in a cocktail lounge in Monaco having a drink with friends. At the end of the bar were two young men, glancing at him with admiration. One of the young men challenged his friend to approach Onassis and ask him how to look successful. Standing tall, the friend moved toward Onassis. “Excuse me, sir. I’ve admired you for a long time and would love to ask you just one question: How can I look as successful as you?” Onassis paused for a second, then responded with a smile. “I will give you three tips: One, always be exquisitely dressed. Two, always be tan; and three, buy drinks for nice people in nice places.” The young man thanked him, and as he strode back to his seat at the bar, Onassis asked the bartender to send the young men drinks on him. I believe this story speaks volumes about image and perception. Maybe you can’t be tan all the time but good grooming and modern quality clothing (and eyewear) are givens. At home, you can kick back all you want but in the outside world, you are what you look like. Fair or unfair, people make silent judgments on your appearance all the time. I’ve been in the men’s fashion business for almost half a century and have lived and shared this philosophy when conducting professional workshops, seminars and career preparation talks. Three months ago, my son took on a VP sales position with a major financial company. He and I agreed that he needed to upgrade his wardrobe from casual looks to suits and ties. More recently, he and his boss visited a Fortune 500 client and presented to the CEO and several associates. The office was total opulence: 50 stories above the southern tip of the Hudson River, modern furnishings, floor to ceiling windows overlooking the New York bridges and Statue of Liberty. During the meeting, the CEO, himself
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Known as the “Golden Greek,” the self-made Aristotle Onassis has said, “To be successful, you have to act big, think big and talk big.”
elegantly dressed, suggested a break. While the group was waiting for water to be delivered (no one requested coffee), the CEO looked at my son and said, “Joe, I love what you’re wearing! Great shirt and tie! And what kind of suit is that?” My son explained that the suit was completely unstructured with a “shirt sleeve” shoulder (no padding). His rounded spread-shirt collar exposed some
of the tie underneath, which was tied in a “four-in-hand” with two dimples, a distinctive look no doubt. The CEO thanked him and the meeting proceeded. That afternoon my son texted me to say he never felt as in command as he did when this CEO admired his sartorial style. And yes, he successfully sold his service to this company.
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GUIDE
the
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A Fashionista’s Dream Shop: Hundreds of Luxe Accessories
Accessories make a look. That’s why we’ve created a new “shop within the shop” dedicated to a carefully curated collection of the most sought after handbags and women’s shoes of the moment. To kick things off this spring, we will feature approximately 700 pairs of shoes and 300 handbags. If the quantity wows you, the quality will bowl you over. We’ll offer top brands, including AGL, Golden Goose, Jimmy Choo, Marion Parke, Pedro Garcia, Stuart Weitzman, Manolo Blahnik, Casadei and many more. In the fall we’ll curate even more brands including hard-to-find, high-end faves. “From our end, it comes down to buying what looks like the best fit for you, our customers,” says Kennedy Carter, style advisor at Rodes. “We work closely with customers, so we have a good feel for what you’re looking for and the image you want to create.” Kennedy’s hot tip for spring/summer ’19? “Sneakers have been very hot, and we think they’ll continue to be. They’re more versatile than ever, and there are some excellent choices.” Details matter, and at Rodes, we are dedicated to offering the hottest accessories to take any look from fine to fabulous.
For the confident, sophisticated woman— YOU Lafayette 148’s designs exude “confidence and sophistication,” so it’s fitting that women like Michelle Obama and Melinda Gates have chosen the brand to look their best at public appearances. And it’s fitting that you can shop their new collection at Rodes’ new Lafayette 148 shop. Susan Vogt, Rodes co-owner and women’s buyer, says, “Lafayette 148 is a high-energy brand for Rodes’ customers. It’s clothing with a purpose—and has a great sense of style.” The Lafayette 148 sensibility is modern and urban, which makes sense because the company is named after the Manhattan address where it was founded. “The brand focuses on details, fabulous fabrics and design, with head-to-toe dressing in mind,” says Vogt. “Customers usually gravitate to its wide selection of jackets—that’s the starting point. Then we build around it, adding blouses, knits and a bottom. Lafayette 148 is extremely versatile with colors and textures. We guide our customers to have several versions of an outfit.”
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JIMMY CHOO
Meet MEAGAN HOOK Looking to blend the latest trends with classic styles? Style advisor Meagan Hook is your go-to Rodes expert. Get to know her and she will get to know your personal tastes and preferences. She shares a few thoughts: My style icons are… Blake Lively, for sure, because her styles are so fun and funky. The gold Atelier Versace gown she wore to the Met Gala was amazing. Kate Middleton is another favorite. You have to love her for her classic style and elegance. She wore a gorgeous Jenny Packham gown to an event in 2012 and again in 2018. I love that she wears pieces more than once because it’s fashion that is relatable to the real world. I describe my personal style as… Very classic but with trendy pieces thrown in here and there for variety. I love accessories! Great statement earrings, purses and shoes, for example. The must-have piece for this spring or summer is… Amazing sunglasses! Mirrored sunglasses are all the rage and we carry a few great styles from Krewe. The Krewe Laveau nylon crystal 24K and Collins nylon crystal styles are my favorites. My best advice for customers… Splurge. You deserve it.
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FABRICS, take a bow
Mark Your CALENDAR @ RODES FOR HIM
March 2nd ISAIA SPRING TRUNK SHOW DIBIANCO SHOE SHOWING March 6th & 7th MEASURE UP SPRING SHIRT SHOW March 7th SAMUELSOHN SPRING TRUNK SHOW
March 14th – 16th LOURDES CHAVEZ SPRING TRUNK SHOW ORLANDA OLSEN JEWELRY SHOW CHRISTINE MOORE HAT CLINIC March 15th & 16th MARION PARKE SPRING SHOE SHOW PEDRO GARCÍA SPRING SHOE SHOW March 21st MODERN MOGHUL JEWELRY SHOW
March 8th & 9th ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA WEEKEND SHOWING IN THE ZEGNA SHOP @ RODES
March 21st – 23rd VINCE. SPRING SHOWING HUDSON JEANS DENIM SHOW
April 12th & 13th ETON SHIRT WEEKEND SHOW IN THE ETON SHIRT SHOP @ RODES
April 11th – 13th BLACK HALO SPRING SHOWING HEADCANDI HAT SHOW
@ RODES FOR HER
March 8th & 9th KINROSS CASHMERE SPRING SHOWING
April 18th CINDY BORDERS JEWELRY SHOW April 18th – 20th MILLY SPRING BUY NOW, WEAR NOW EVENT CHRISTINE MOORE MILLINERY HAT SHOW
Can performance fabrics really help you run farther, sweat less or stay cool while wearing a suit in the summer heat? They’ll make you feel that way anyhow. They’re a mix of materials— some synthetic, some natural—that are easy to care for, keep sweat off your body, repel bacteria and odors, resist staining, are waterproof—you get the idea. Have an athletic build? Performance fabrics are stretchy and hug your body, so if you’re proud of your pecs, these fabrics will help you show them off. And if you’re looking for a more tapered, athletic cut, performance fabrics are the way to go. Many luxury brands are marrying natural fibers with modern technology to yield incredibly wearable results. Impeccable 2.0 is Canali’s line of high-performance fabric that features soft, ultrafine wool twisted many times over for elasticity and to create a lightweight, “breathing” fabric that is also resistant to water, stains and creases. Ermenegildo Zegna’s Trofeo 600 material is a superfine wool that is blended with pure silk 600 yarn to create a material that is creaseresistant, naturally luminous and incredibly lightweight. Ask your Rodes salesperson about the wide range of performance fabrics available. To see high-style looks made from high-performance textiles, see page 40.
April 26th & 27th CLARA WILLIAMS CO. JEWELRY SHOW April 29th – May 3rd CHRISTINE MOORE MILLINERY HAT CLINIC May 23rd & 24th NATURA BISSÉ FACIAL CLINIC June 13th – 15th ALGO OF SWITZERLAND FALL TRUNK SHOW
@ RODES FOR HIM & FOR HER
March 9th 39TH RODES CITY RUN 10K BENEFITTING THE WHAS CRUSADE FOR CHILDREN March 17th RODES’ 105TH ANNIVERSARY April 18th DERBY DIVAS BENEFITTING THE NORTON CANCER INSTITUTE BREAST HEALTH PROGRAM
SAMUELSOHN
The A-Z List Rodes is proud to feature more than 100 designers. See if your favorite brands are among them! ABBEY GLASS ACQUA DI PARMA AG JEANS AIRFIELD ALAN PAINE ALDEN ALEX BEGG & CO. ALGO OF SWITZERLAND ANATOMIE ART OF SHAVING AGL (ATTILIO GIUSTI LEOMBRUNI) BADGLEY MISCHKA BELFORD BELLROY BIGI BLACK HALO BOGLIOLI BRACKISH BYRON CAMBIO CANALI CAROLINE CONSTAS CARTISE CASADEI CHANEL VINTAGE CHELSEA AND WALKER CHIARA BONI CHRISTINE MOORE MILLINERY CINDY BORDERS CINZIA ROCCA CLARA WILLIAMS CO.
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COLLECTION IRIS CONNIE ROBERSON CORNELIANI D. EXTERIOR DEREK ROSE DI BIANCO DONALD PLINER EDWARD ACHOUR ELEVENTY ELLIOTT LAUREN EMA SAVAHL EQUIPMENT ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ERNO LASZLO ESCADA ETON EYEBOBS FAHERTY BRAND FRYE FUZZI GERRY WEBER GIMO’S GOLDEN GOOSE GOOD MAN BRAND GRAN SASSO GRAVATI GRLFRND DENIM H.S. TRASK HAMMITT HEADCANDI HERNO HERVE LEGER HILTL
HILTS WILLARD HOOK & ALBERT HUDSON ISAIA J BRAND J. DOSI J’ENVIE JACK MASON JANE POST JIMMY CHOO JOE’S JEANS JOIE KINROSS CASHMERE KOBI HALPERIN LA PETITE ROBE LAFAYETTE 148 NY L’AGENCE LELA ROSE LOEFFLER RANDALL LONGCHAMP LOUIS VUITTON VINTAGE LOURDES CHAVEZ LUCIAN MATIS MAGNANNI MANOLO BLAHNIK MARCHESA MARCOLIANI MARION PARKE MAURIZIO BALDASSARI MAX MARA MEASURE UP MICHAEL BASTIAN MIGNONNE GAVIGAN
MILLY MODERN MOGHUL MOORE & GILES MOTHER DENIM MOUSSY NATURA BISSE’ NEW BALANCE OLIVER PEOPLES ORLANDA OLSEN PAIGE DENIM PANTHERELLA PAPER LONDON PASHMA PAULE KA PEDRO GARCÍA PETER MILLAR PT01 R. HANAUER RAILS RE/DONE REBECCA HOOK RINO AND PELLE ROBERT JENSEN ROBERT TALBOTT S.M.N. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SAMUELSOHN SANTONI SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG SECRID SHOSHANNA SPANX ST. CROIX
ST. JOHN STUART WEITZMAN SUMMER ELIASON TATEOSSIAN TILO SCARVES TOM FORD TORINO TRAFALGAR VELVET VINCE. VINCENT PEACH VK NAGRANI WHITE + WARREN WIGENS ZANELLA
ELEVENTY
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Ask JIM
Spring 2019 fashion tips for him lightweight carry-on bags and other assorted travel accessories. Stop in and we’ll help you find the perfect gift for your perfect guy. If not, there’s always our gift card option, perhaps the most perfect present of all!
Q
Q
A
A
Most of my pants and jeans are too heavy (and tight) to wear in hot weather. Are there any options that are lightweight, comfortable and office-appropriate?
Yes. We have numerous styles to carry you through spring into summer, including fivepocket chinos that fit like jeans but are much lighter in weight. With the addition of stretch to traditional fabrics, even slim styles no longer feel tight. In addition to jogger-inspired styles, we carry dressier models in performance fabrics to keep you cool in even the hottest weather. Bottom line: In this era of advanced fabric technology, pants have never been as cool, comfortable or flattering. It’s a good time to stock up!
Q
I hate buying clothes as gifts because I’m never certain of size or taste. What do you suggest?
A
You can’t go wrong with accessories. Consider handsome leather wallets or card cases, soft luxury socks, colorful pocket squares in cotton, silk or linen (printed or trimmed at the edge), artisanal wrist jewelry (a hot trend for all ages and styles), fashion belts and
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I’m tempted to discard all my old ties as it seems no one is wearing them anymore. What’s the story?
Granted, they’re no longer mandatory business attire, but ties are far from extinct. In fact, nothing makes as clear a proclamation about your confidence and competence as wearing a great tie. Whether with a suit, sportcoat or a shirt and jeans, the tie remains a symbol of respect for tradition and of individual style. But don’t confuse 2019 neckwear with what’s on your tie rack. While yesterday’s ties were mostly shiny silk, today’s are often crafted in non-silk or luxury blends, sometimes textured or with a subtle matte finish. For spring, try the new cotton/linen or silk/linen fabrics. Colorful silk prints are still important for creating an upbeat vibe, but solid knits keep the look fresh and modern. So yes, you can dump the old ties as long as you buy a few new ones. You won’t be sorry!
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elements of style
all the
COLORS
of the
Spring and summer are the perfect seasons to add splashes of color to your wardrobe. Take a cue from Roy G. Biv (the mnemonic that helped us remember the colors of the rainbow— red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet) and liven up your look with a new hue or two.
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PHOTO CREDIT: DANIEL SPRINGSTON
RAINBOW
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Top row from left: RED—5-pocket, hi-flex denim jeans by Brax ORANGE—cashmere zip-front cardigan by Eleventy YELLOW—plaid double-breasted sportcoat by Isaia GREEN—knit tie by Isaia Bottom row from left: BLUE— zip-front jacket by Eton INDIGO—silk tie by Eton VIOLET—sportcoat and seersucker shirt by Samuelsohn and pocket square by Eton
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essentials
easy
PIECES
Make sure you have the season’s must-have shoes in your closet.
SWEET SOLES
Lighten up with dress shoes in cognac—they look great with nearly any color suit or pants. Clockwise from top left: blucher by Scarpe Di Bianco, oxford and brogue by Magnanni.
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KICKING IT
Add maximum versatility to your wardrobe with leather sneakers and loafers. Clockwise from top: navy loafer by Trask, light brown loafer and gray sneaker by Magnanni and brown sneaker by Scarpe Di Bianco.
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the lucky 7:
SPRING STYLE GUIDE Want to look like a winner this season? Rodes style pros combed through the SS19 menswear collections to find the best new looks—both tailored and casual. Shop these curated looks at Rodes! Photography by Dan Springston
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PATTERN MIXING Wear a classic Glen plaid sportcoat in beautiful shades of blue with a dotted tie and printed pocket square, also in the new blues. The secret to pattern mixing: Choose complementary colors, and play with different scales in patterns. Sportcoat, shirt and trousers by Canali, pocket square and tie by Eton.
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RAIN OR SHINE A weatherproof topcoat crafted from a luxury performance fabric is the contemporary version of a raincoat and will take you anywhere. The modern cut fits over a sportcoat. It’s truly a year-round piece, perfect for travel, and a great investment! Topcoat, blazer and trousers by Isaia and shirt by Eleventy.
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FEET FIRST Part dress shoe, part sneaker, this is the footwear you’ll live in this spring, adding a bit of panache to your dress-down attire and a bit of edge to dress-up. Zip-front cardigan and trousers by Eleventy, shirt by Isaia and sneakers by Magnanni.
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THE CLASSIC SUIT While it sure looks like a traditional suit, the slim-but-not-tight fit is the hallmark of 2019. Thanks to the natural stretch in today’s luxury fabrics, this suit is as comfortable as it is fashionable, which means you can actually move in it. Suit by Canali, shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna and pocket square and tie by Eton.
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THE FLORAL SHIRT A man in floral prints projects confidence and charisma. The shirt’s perfect collar stance is thanks to the second button, which is high enough to look neat without a tie. Sportcoat and shirt by Samuelsohn, trousers by PT01 and pocket square by Eton.
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TONE ON TONE Even in denim jeans, a dark toneon-tone look is the epitome of city style, no matter the season. Wear a white shirt to set off the darker shades and keep the look light. Jacket and sweater by Ermenegildo Zegna, shirt and tie by Eton and jeans by PT01.
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COLOR CUES There’s no time like spring to break out the bold color! We love these washed red fivepocket trousers worn with a soft coral (Pantone’s 2019 Color of the Year) shirt. Layered with the pale blue quarter-zip sweater and brown suede bomber and shoes, you’ve got a polished, go-anywhere casual look. Bomber jacket, sweater and polo by Peter Millar, jeans by Brax and suede sneakers by Scarpe Di Bianco.
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auto
jaguar ELECTRIFIES The British carmaker’s first all-electric vehicle, the luxurious I-Pace SUV, bolts to the front of a crowded pack. By Darius Amos
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A
sk and you shall receive—right, Elon Musk? The Tesla chief took the auto world by storm when he rolled out his line of luxury electric cars, but little did he know that his call for the world’s other leading automakers to manufacture competitive “green” vehicles would be met head-on by Jaguar. The British company,
with an 80+-year history of producing fine executive cars and sports coupes, has more than stepped up to Musk’s challenge. It has launched a new five-seat SUV crossover, the I-Pace, that’s now standing toe-totoe with the Tesla’s front-running Model X. The I-Pace is Jag’s first all-electric vehicle. With a starting price of $70,495, it aims to become the leader in an SUV market that includes Mercedes-Benz, Audi and Porsche as well as Tesla. So what makes this big cat purr? For starters, it boasts two electric motors that generate 394 horsepower, which Jaguar says will muscle a 0-to-60 time of 4.5 seconds. (That’s faster than the Model X and just a fraction behind Tesla’s iconic Model S super sedan.) And track results show the new Jag has a range of up to 234 miles on a full battery charge—that’s New York City to Boston without stopping to plug in. The raw I-Pace power is tamed by all-wheel drive traction, which also comes in handy in stormy weather or when the pavement ends and off-roading begins. Faced with rough terrain, drivers can adjust the car’s suspension height: A flip of a switch will activate air springs to raise the SUV’s body 2 inches and improve ground clearance. At higher speeds (and back on asphalt), the suspension can be lowered about one-half inch to boost aerodynamics. Inside the cabin, you’ll find all the amenities typically associated with the Jaguar name. Thanks to acoustically laminated front side glass and windshield and fullframe doors, road and wind noise is remarkably hushed. A pair of center touch screens—a main 10-inch screen and a secondary 5.5-inch unit—house the infotainment system and climate controls. Soft, double-needle-stitched leather seats can be electronically heated or cooled. And speaking of temperature, I-Pace drivers will be wise to download the corresponding smartphone app, which can remotely set the temperature of the interior without using battery power. An old adage suggests that sometimes less is more. Without an engine, the I-Pace offers fewer mechanical components for a driver to interact (play) with. No worries. This isn’t a sports car; it’s a high-tech, sporty electric SUV.
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brush strokes
artistic
MUSINGS
A next-generation Warholian artist reflects on why art matters in the modern world. By Karen Alberg Grossman “Things like technical lighting and makeup artists distract from the natural progression of the shoot,” Gerben maintains. To the photograph, he adds color, pattern, texture, newspaper print, collage, graphics—whatever he feels best captures the raw energy and intrinsic character of the subject. Gerben is often called upon by A-listers to paint commissioned portraits. Although best known for his portraiture, Gerben spent the first 25 years of his career working as a graphic designer and photographer, which he leaned on to create “Circle of Love,” a collection of sculptures that was launched at Art Hamptons in 2015 and sold out at the VIP party on opening night. “I started thinking maybe I should do something with my many years of graphic design experience. I realized there hadn’t been an iconic LOVE sculpture since [the late] Robert Indiana’s internationally acclaimed work in the ’60s. So, combining the influence of Damien Hirst’s spots paintings with Indiana’s LOVE, I designed the ‘Circle of Love’ sculpture. I trademarked the logo, started
with limited edition sculptures and print art, and ultimately produced a jewelry line that I consider wearable art. I’m selling to collectors from New York to London to Tokyo; it seems that people around the world still crave love....” Pondering the quintessential question about art, Gerben contemplates its intrinsic value. “There’s no definitive answer, but I’d say we need art to add beauty to our lives, to
“I can’t sell a piece of art that I don’t personally love....” connect us with personal passions, to uplift our souls. Just as food stimulates our taste and music amplifies our hearing, art intensifies our visual acuity, helping us see the world in new ways. It’s more intuitive than rational: You don’t always know why a certain work speaks to you—whether it’s the subject matter, the composition, the colors—but if it touches you, it should become part of your life. As an art collector myself, I tend to choose art by what I see, not by what I hear or read.”
Paul Gerben’s portraits feature cultural icons, including (opposite page, clockwise from top) Robert Kennedy, Marilyn Monroe and Bruce Lee.
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PHOTO CREDIT: PAUL GERBEN
Like pop art pioneer Andy Warhol, artist Paul Gerben is widely acclaimed for his mixed media portraits of past and present cultural icons. His legendary subjects include Mick and Keith, Clint Eastwood, The Beatles, Bob Dylan, Bob Marley; the list goes on. Yet despite unquestionable commercial success and a vast body of work, Gerben remains humble and greatly excited about his future. On his recently released portraits of Bruce Lee (one of his childhood heroes; he practiced martial arts as a kid) and Jerry Garcia, Gerben confides, “I tried dozens of ideas for these two portraits over a period of several years but, unhappy with those attempts, I didn’t release them until I hit that emotional high when it finally felt right. I can’t sell a piece of art that I don’t personally love.” These days, Gerben is gearing up for the release of his book depicting one-of-a-kind portraits created from his own photos of A-list stars: Robert De Niro, Lionel Richie, Jewel, Gerard Butler, Michael B. Jordan and more. He starts the creative process with a simple photograph that he takes with a small pointand-shoot Leica using natural light. His goal: “To capture that perfect unplanned moment” with minimal interruption or artifice.
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Ask SUSAN
Spring 2019 fashion tips for her
Q
I want to mix up my spring wardrobe a bit. Looking at the racks, I can’t tell what cuts, styles, fabrics and colors will work for me. Where should I start?
A
Start by consulting a personal stylist. Sometimes a dress or blouse has no hanger appeal and your eye will go right past it. However, many times those pieces end up looking the best on the body. Clothes are made to be worn, not look great on hangers. I have the advantage of seeing the clothing we carry on models and know how these pieces will fit. My other piece of advice is to always bring a wide variety of choices into the dressing room. In the privacy of the dressing room you can take risks with something that may not look like your cup of tea on the hanger. You may be surprised by how these pieces make you look and feel when you try them on.
Q
Skinny, boyfriend, high-rise, ankle, raw-hem, distressed…what are the latest denim trends?
A
This is exactly why I love our new denim bar! Whether you’re looking for fitted or flared, skinny or baggy, we can serve up your new favorite pair. We expanded our selection of tried and true brands: Hudson, for a rock-and-roll vibe, and Paige, our soft and comfy denim. Then, we added more brands to our collection, including Mother, known for fun and funky washes that have a touch of rebellion. At the denim bar, we are excited to offer Re/Done, a brand that takes vintage denim apart at the seams and repurposes it as the fabric of new, modern-cut jeans. We also now have GRLFRND, another line of vintage denim with modern tailoring, and Moussy, sexy denim made from Japanese fabric. Spring is the perfect time for a new
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pair of fresh and flirty jeans, and there are three trends I absolutely love: ARTSY DETAILS Many of our favorite brands are showing jeans with artistic elements. Denim embellished with embroidery or allover floral patterns is fun for spring. Plus, I love denim with whimsical, hand-painted designs. HEM DETAILS It doesn’t matter whether you prefer your denim to be clean or deconstructed, it’s all about the sexy ankle! Fun details we are seeing this season include the raw hem, which shows a little bit of fray, and the shark bite hem, which features a large cut from the bottom with fray. Denim with a hem that is shorter in the front and longer in the back is called a step hem. SEAM DETAILS This season we are seeing a lot of side stripes. We especially love the satin ribbons, two-toned stripes and a fabulous black velvet tux stripe. From sophisticated and sleek to youthful and fun, our new denim bar is stocked with a plethora of options.
Q
Was that you on 7 Days Out: Kentucky Derby on Netflix?
A
Yes, it was! I was so honored that the show came to Rodes to talk about “Derby Style” for the docuseries. The episode features a fabulous behind-the-scenes look at the planning and logistics required to produce an event as great as the Kentucky Derby. If you watch the show, I’m sure you’ll see a lot of other familiar faces from around town.
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HATS OFF TO
DERBY-DAY
STYLE
With outfits like these from Rodes, you’ll get plenty of mileage—and attention—at the track and beyond! Photography by Dan Springston
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Dress by Frascara, hat by Christine A. Moore Millinery
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Dress by Badgley Mischka, hat by Christine A. Moore Millinery
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Suit by Escada, hat by Christine A. Moore Millinery
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Dress by Milly, hat by Christine A. Moore Millinery
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Dress by Chiara Boni, hat by Christine A. Moore Millinery
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SUMMER The season’s newest styles and fabrics fit just as well at the office as they do at Sunday brunch.
From top left: Manolo Blahnik, Marion Parke and Casadei
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soft and
SPORTY
In a lightweight sportcoat by Boglioli, less structure can mean more panache. By Karen Alberg Grossman
I
Boglioli managing director David Newlove
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t is said that change in men’s fashion is evolutionary, not revolutionary. But every so often a fashion concept emerges that totally shakes things up. Such was the case when American men were introduced to the Italian art of soft tailoring, or “empty” tailoring, as Boglioli calls it. These are suits and sportcoats with only the lightest-weight canvas between the outer fabric and the lining, so that the jacket conforms to the body. In some cases, there’s no canvas or lining at all, yet these virtually weightless garments add a hefty dose of sophistication and flair. Among the masters of unconstructed tailoring, Boglioli is an “insider’s” brand, much loved by those in the know. In fact, for several generations Boglioli crafted clothing for the most prestigious men’s designers in Italy, who sold it under their own labels. In the late 1990s, the third-generation Boglioli brothers decided to create a collection using their family name. They also began experimenting with a special dyeing and washing process that adds exceptional color and textural nuance to the garment. Boglioli managing director David Newlove explains the process: “The fabrics (often with a pattern woven in) come into our Gambara, Italy, workshop, where we craft the jackets, bundle them and send them to our tintoria in the next village. There they’re dyed and overdyed and sometimes acid-washed for a frost effect. They’re dried and hung and sent back to us for pressing and finishing. The end result: a jacket that’s so soft, luxurious and comfortable that it makes everything else in one’s closet obsolete.” For spring/summer 2019, Newlove is most excited about advancements in the garment dye process using new technology to give a totally unique color palette. “We’re introducing our iconic K jacket now with a cangiante Solaro overdye. It’s finished with a special salt treatment before it’s sent back to our workrooms for final finishing and pressing.” For the quintessential sportcoat for summer travel, Newlove suggests Boglioli’s weightless, super-soft, cotton micro-cord shirting fabric crafted into a K jacket. “In today’s era of relaxed corporate dress codes, guys truly appreciate our concept of ‘empty’ tailoring,” he says. “For many, this type of garment inevitably becomes a favorite piece of clothing—not serious, dressfor-success clothing but a suit or sportcoat to live in.”
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MOTION
Today’s luxury lightweight performance fabrics won’t slow you down, and they’ll keep you looking sharp.
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Who would have thought donning a navy suit could feel so freeing? Cotton stretch chalk-stripe jogger suit and Giza cotton sweatshirt by Eleventy. Loafers by Trask.
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Luxury knit joggers are comfortable enough to sleep in while stylish enough to wear out and about. And yes, they pair well with tailored clothing so you can change up your office garb. Jacket, drawstring sweatpants and polo shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna and loafers by Magnanni.
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Sportcoat or cardigan? You decide. This unstructured miracle of Italian tailoring will be the most comfortable and versatile garment you’ll ever wear. Sportcoat and shirt by Samuelsohn and pants by Eleventy.
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grooming
HAIRLINE Cutting and trimming the hair on your head should be left to the experts for obvious reasons, but you can maintain a wellgroomed hairline in between cuts. How? By washing your hair every two to three days rather than daily and by not weighing it down with too many products. These practices not only keep hair healthier, but also make it look thicker, thus helping to disguise receding hairlines. A bit of pomade and a comb—or your fingers—is all that’s needed to maintain your hairline on a daily basis, but you can also keep a small electric razor handy for when you need to tidy up around the edges. EYEBROWS The number-one rule for grooming your brows? Don’t overdo it. That means keeping their natural, straight shape—arched brows have a more feminine look—and only getting rid of the stragglers. To avoid the dreaded unibrow, start by placing your finger on the bridge of your nose and plucking only the hairs your finger touches. Then maintain the shape and look of the brows by trimming monthly or so; just brush hairs upwards and snip only the ends (or have your barber do it for you). Tweezing carefully and sparingly with an angled tweezer is an option too, but under no circumstances should you wax those bad boys just because the lady in your life is doing it. You’ve been warned. BEARD Once your beard has reached the desired length, train the hairs to grow in a downward direction by brushing daily with a boar bristle brush. Then use grooming scissors or an electric razor with the guard setting of your choice once a week or so to trim and get rid of split ends and strays. Just make sure you do so with the grain to minimize bumps and irritation. Finally, keep your beard and mustache clean by rinsing with a beard wash or mild soap and water two to three times a week—and add a moisturizing beard oil when you’re feeling fancy (or itchy).
Splitting
HAIRS
Tonsorially uncertain? Here’s how to trim—and buzz—and brush—and tweeze to look your best.
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CHEST Similar rules apply when going below the neck; always trim—do not shave, please—with the grain to reduce irritation. But how low should you go? There’s no harm in manscaping down to your belly button—“happy trail” included—but make sure the amount of hair on your torso matches with the amount on your face. You don’t want to be scruffy up top and resemble a boy bander below the neck, do you? Also, start with a higher guard setting when buzzing here. You can always go back in for another round later if it’s still too scraggly, but you can’t undo a too-short style.
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at your service
Going above and beyond for you is the heart and soul of the Rodes culture. Here are a few of the services we offer to make your experience special.
Stay Current
Special Appointments
Be the first to know about special events, new arrivals and offers by signing up to receive our emails at rodes.com. Stay informed by liking us on Facebook and following us on Twitter and Instagram.
Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to work around your schedule for any of your shopping needs. Just call us and we’ll make it happen.
Gift Cards We’ll make it easy: Purchase online, stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.
Home/Office Visits Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But, no worries—we’re more than happy to come to your home or office, anytime.
Wardrobe/Closet Consultation Is the closet full but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros at Rodes for a personal wardrobe/closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.
Personal Delivery/Shipping Whether in Louisville, Southern Indiana, or anywhere in the United States, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it.
Tailoring/Alterations With highly skilled tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. And even better, our expert alterations are complimentary with every purchase.
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Complimentary Gift Wrap There’s gift wrap and then there’s Rodes gift wrap: the unforgettable red box with a white ribbon! It’s always complimentary and is the perfect finishing touch.
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pop
PSYCHOLOGY
In honor of Father’s Day, top menswear execs share lessons they’ve learned from Dad. By Karen Alberg Grossman
“Whoever does not have a good father should procure one,” advised the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche. The importance of fatherhood is universally recognized, as is the tremendous impact fathers have. Here, top menswear execs share some of the wisdom they’ve derived from their dads: Ermenegildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna “My father Angelo was my role model. He taught me the importance of family and how to lead by example. He showed his children the significance of having vision, of taking risks, of thinking longterm. Most important, my father had a strong sense of humility and discipline. I am forever grateful to have learned these attributes from such an important figure in my life.” Brunello Cucinelli, CEO and founder of Brunello Cucinelli “Be ever so careful that the ox does not step out of the furrow.” As odd as this might sound, the greatest teaching I received from my father stems from this warning. My family were farmers in Umbria, and each of us had a precise task to carry out in order to make ends meet. One of my tasks was to lead the oxen during ploughing, while my father would operate the plough behind me. Once our work was done, he would stare at the newly traced furrows and say with satisfaction: ‘See how perfectly straight they are? Good job!’ And when I asked him why it was so important, he would reply: ‘Because they look better straight!’ “As a teenager I did not pay much attention. But over the years I’ve started to slowly understand how many things were meant by that apparently simple warning, and how important they all were. “I understood that the ploughshare, polished by use, shines in the sun like the purity of human labor; that the furrow is like the womb of generous Mother Earth; that year after year, through our ploughing, we were writing the great book of fathers; that tradition holds the values of the brightest future; that the straight furrow represents the integrity of the righteous. “Last but not least, I understood that beauty is indispensable for a good life. I thank my father and, so far, I’ve always tried to live by his teachings.”
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Arnold Silverstone, creative director of Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman “My dad Peter is a judicious businessman, a loving, devoted family man, a competitive sportsman and a generous human being. He’s set the bar high in terms of how to live life with passion, commitment and integrity. “It’s no surprise that I followed his footsteps into the fashion business. Because he had his own tailored clothing company, I was able to study by his side from childhood. He always had the courage to allow me to fail and learn from my mistakes; he was always there for me when I needed him. Among my greatest joys has been having him with me during several of my career high points and to see the pride in his eyes. That’s the same pride I’ve always had for my incredible dad.” Mike Faherty, co-founder of Faherty Brand “I’ve always had a fascination with clothing and style. My dad Roger, who worked in finance on Wall Street, was a sharp dresser with genuine flair and a deep appreciation for quality fabrics and construction, which certainly rubbed off on me. I remember his closet full of tailored suits neatly lined up for the week and the perfectly soft Hawaiian shirts he would wear with panache in the summer. The clothing brand my brother and I founded six years ago is in many ways an homage to our dad.” Gianluca Isaia, CEO of Isaia “‘My Way’ sung by Frank Sinatra was my father’s favorite song, and it’s the way he lived his life. Everything I know about our business I learned from my father, Enrico. He was a risk-taker and pioneer
in his field, taking over for my grandfather to run the second generation business. “Throughout my career, I had the great fortune to travel across the globe with this man who taught me every aspect of the business. Everything you do has an impact. It was amazing to work alongside him and experience firsthand the evolution of the brand. One piece of advice he gave me was the Latin phrase ‘Etiam capillus unus habet umbram suam,’ which means even a single hair casts a shadow. “My father had a great sense of style and was one of the first members of Pitti Uomo [the menswear trade show in Florence], which he attended regularly throughout his lifetime. He loved the Neapolitan classics and took styling references from elegant Neapolitan men as well as from Toto and other Italian film greats. Ultimately, though, my father taught me to define my own sense of style. “We carry on his legacy at Isaia by working hard and never compromising who we are and our own identity—made in Napoli.”
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