R od e s FORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/SS 2020
R o d e s S S 2 0 2 0 F O R U M / T H E S U B S T A N C E O F S T Y L E
ONES TO WATCH NEW CHIC AND EDGY LOOKS A SIP OF AMERICANA BOURBON’S NEW MOMENT OFF AND RUNNING MUSTHAVES FOR DERBY DAY
R O D E S . C O M
CELEBRATING ETON BLUE: THE SOPHISTICATED MICRO PRINT
CONTENTS
spring/ summer 2020
FEATURES LUCKY GIRLS
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You’ll take first place in fashion in these Derby Day styles.
ONES TO WATCH
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This season, Rodes features looks from au courant designers that are both chic and edgy.
ARCHI/TEXTURE
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Form meets fabric to extraordinary effect. For dress-up or casual, light and luxe textures feel as fresh as they look. Silhouettes, both classic and modern, are built for effortless elegance.
FIND WHAT SUITS YOU!
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Whether it’s head-to-toe patterns or mix-and-match separates, this season’s tailored clothing gives you every opportunity to express yourself.
BOURBON’S NEW MOMENT
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The classic whiskey from the Bluegrass State evokes Americana like an old tintype. So why is it suddenly hot?
DEPARTMENTS 4
Memo
Find out what’s in store for spring at Rodes. 6
The Rodes Guide
Get to know milliner Christine A. Moore and our own Eleanor Lavin. 8
Ask Jim
Your seasonal style questions get answered. 10
Essentials
Ladies’ must-haves for Churchill Downs and much more. 26
Ask Susan
Fashion tips every woman can appreciate. 44
Profile: Corneliani
The esteemed Italian brand designs for a culture, not just a man, says style director Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte. 48
Spotlight: Vince
This casual luxury brand brings timeless elegance to Rodes this season.
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memo
RODES 4938 Brownsboro Rd. Louisville, KY 40222 502.753.RODES (7633) rodes.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Rita Guarna
For Her team
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stephen Vitarbo SENIOR EDITOR Daria Meoli SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Darius Amos LIFESTYLE EDITOR Haley Longman EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Gianna Barone CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Kara Kablack CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER Daniel Springston EDITOR-AT-LARGE, FOUNDING EDITOR Karen Alberg Grossman PUBLISHING STAFF GROUP PUBLISHER Shae Marcus NATIONAL BRAND MANAGER Monica Delli Santi PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Menghi ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Cheryl Good Fryer, Jessica Salerno
For Him team
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Susan Windrum CIRCULATION MANAGER Kathy Wenzler ADVERTISING SERVICES DIRECTOR
What’s in store for spring Spring has sprung! We are celebrating the season by introducing several hot new designers as well as more styles from your favorite brands. We are thrilled to introduce Emporio Armani, REDValentino, LoveShackFancy and Monique Lhuillier to Rodes For Her. To see a preview of some of our favorite new looks, check out “Ones to Watch” on page 22. Also, our selection of designer shoes and handbags is unequaled in the region! In men’s, we continue to grow our Lifestyle Studio with denim designers like Citizens of Humanity and S.M.N and more styles, including Boglioli shirts and Good Man Brand apparel. We have also broadened our collection of Peter Millar and Ermenegildo Zegna in all categories. The spring/summer 2020 season brings with it many of our favorite reasons to celebrate: Derby, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, graduations and weddings! We look forward to working with you so you look your best for all of life’s special occasions. See you around town,
Jacquelynn Fischer GRAPHIC DESIGNER, AD SERVICES Violeta Mulaj PRODUCTION ART ASSOCIATE Chris Ferrante ACCOUNTING Agnes Alves, Kasie Carleton, Megan Frank, Katie Torre PUBLISHED BY CHAIRMAN Carroll V. Dowden PRESIDENT & CEO Mark Dowden SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS Shae Marcus, Carl Olsen VICE PRESIDENTS Nigel Edelshain, Thomas Flannery, Rita Guarna, Diane Vojcanin
RODES magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656, in association with RODES. Copyright © 2020 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, RODES, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, RODES Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email kathy.wenzler@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.
Susan and Howard Vogt
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GUIDE
the
Rodes
The Godfather… Defining DERBY STYLE The Derby may be centered on a choice as well. “They provide a lot of pizazz of Kentucky PREMIUM horse race, but one could easily argue that in a smaller framework,” Moore says. “It’s DENIM for many, the best part is the fashion. And no all about standing out and looking great in Derby look is complete without an iconic hat Denim once thequintessential stuff to top it was off. For that pièce de for weekends and casual résistance, those in the know turn to milliner Fridays. today, And a for good reason— ChristineBut A. Moore. great-fitting jeans featured milliner Moore was thepair firstofofficial with superb construction in Kentucky Derby history, and her work has and contemporary styling adorned many famous heads, including those is as much a wardrobe of Kate Upton, Mary J. Blige, Katy Perry and cornerstone as So a navy suit.would we ask for Jennifer Lopez. who else Enter AG. This Los Angelesinsight on what will be on the heads of the based denimDerby-goers company offers most stylish this year? historically high-quality, Moore says sophisticated silhouettes are long-lasting garments on-trend for 2020. Look for pillbox hats and produces them worn toward the frontinofanthe head, putting a environmentally modern twist on afriendly 1950s classic. Hatinators way—AG uses just .3 frame percent are a hot hybrid. They the face like of thebut water that a on typical a hat sit higher the head like a denim manufacturer fascinator. They have auses shallow crown and per day. So, does allows AG gals to have a the brim liftswhat up, which stand for? Atlanta Georgia? better view of the race and move more easily Attorney General? Avantthrough the crowd. It’s this type of practical Garde? Andy Garcia? Nope, a popular thinking that makes fascinators the brand is named after the Italian fashion designer and reputed godfather of premium denim—Adriano
Goldschmied. Come into Rodes to try on AG’s latest styles, and we think you’ll agree they feel Absolutely Great.
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those photos while being practical about wearing a hat all day.” The reigning queen of Derby headwear is still the Southern belle silhouette, but with some modern updates. Women are wearing more medium brims to the shoulder. Like in fashion, coral is a huge color trend for Derby hats in 2020. “For the last two to three years, we’ve seen a strong pink trend,” says Moore. “This year, we’re seeing corals, oranges and reds as well as deep purples and jewel tones.” Moore says one surprisingly popular look in the South this year is gray hats with a strong accent color. Moore says that while her brand and Rodes both pull customers from around the country—and around the world—the Kentucky Derby is all about Louisville style. “Louisville style means anything goes,” says Moore. “Your look is whatever you want it to be!”
Meet ELEANOR LAVIN At Rodes, it is a true point of pride that we keep multiple generations in style. It is equally important to have all those generations represented on our staff. That’s why we are thrilled to introduce Eleanor Lavin. She may have started with us as an intern, but her savvy and passion for fashion make her a quickly rising upand-comer in our industry. What do you feel is your biggest contribution to Rodes? Rodes is starting to introduce a more contemporary style aimed toward the younger eye, so it is great to be able to voice my opinion and give them insight on girls in their 20s at this moment. What did you learn from working at Rodes? How important it is to listen to and get to know your customers. Everyone at Rodes values the relationships formed with their clients. By establishing genuine relationships with returning customers, you can really tailor what you pull to what works for each person. If you had a crystal ball, where do you see fashion going in the next year? I think leather all year long is going to happen, fringe is back and pastels are always popular in spring. The last few years, rigid denim has been on the rise so I think we will be seeing less skinny jeans and more boyfriend/
relaxed straight-leg fits. Who is your favorite designer? I can’t narrow it down to one but I am currently loving Retrofete, IRO, Isabel Marant, LoveShackFancy and Zadig & Voltaire. Favorite trends? In the warmer months, I love puffy-sleeved tops, girly ruffles and bright silk midi skirts. Oversized blazers are super cool right now too. What do you think every wardrobe should have? I think everyone should have perfectly fitted white jeans, a go-to leather top, a simple bodysuit to pair with jeans or skirts and a black jumpsuit you can style multiple ways. My motto is once you have plenty of basics, you can completely change an outfit with the right accessories. Your one piece of style advice is … Just because it zips, doesn’t mean it fits. When you learn how to dress your body type, I believe you can pull off anything. And don’t be afraid to wear things that your friends wouldn’t. At the end of the day, fashion is all about you and how you want to express yourself at the moment.
Mark Your CALENDAR @ RODES FOR HIM
March 7th TRASK CASUAL SHOE SHOW March 11th & 12th MEASURE UP SPRING SHIRT SHOW March 12th SAMUELSOHN SPRING TRUNK SHOW March 13th & 14th ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA WEEKEND SHOWING IN THE ZEGNA SHOP @ RODES April 17th & 18th ETON SHIRT WEEKEND SHOW IN THE ETON SHIRT SHOP @ RODES June 19th & 20th HUDSON JEANS SHOW
@ RODES FOR HER
March 5th – 7th LOURDES CHAVEZ SPRING TRUNK SHOW, CHRISTINE MOORE HAT CLINIC March 12th – 14th SPRING POP UP SHOP, INCLUDING…EMPORIO ARMANI, ANATOMIE, AIRFIELD
Big In JAPAN Airfield may be headquartered in Seewalchen, Austria, but for spring 2020, the brand’s creative team turned to Asia for inspiration. In its Tokyo collection, Osaka red and cherry blossom serve as the color palette for monochromatic, structured looks or as pops of color against bold black and white tie-dye patterns. This season, jackets and blazers get new cuts, but the impeccable fit Airfield is known for remains. Since its founding in Germany in the late 1970s, Airfield’s expert seamstresses have continued to develop their technical know-how in pattern production. The result—a line that instantly makes any woman feel like she is runway ready.
March 13th & 14th PEDRO GARCIA SHOE SHOW March 19th – 21st KINROSS SPRING SHOWING VINCE SPRING SHOWING HUDSON JEANS SHOW April 9th – 11th ORLANDA OLSEN JEWELRY SHOW TANYA TAYLOR SPRING SHOWING HEADCANDI SPRING DERBY HAT SHOW
The A-Z List Rodes is proud to feature more than 100 designers. See if your favorite brands are among them!
April 16th – 18th MILLY SPRING SHOWING CHRISTINE MOORE HAT CLINIC April 17th & 18th FABIANA FILIPPI FALL 2020 SHOW GRAZIELA JEWELRY SHOW April 23rd – 25th BLACK HALO SPRING TRUNK SHOW CLARA WILLIAMS CO. JEWELRY SHOW April 26th CHRISTINE MOORE HAT CLINIC May 20th & 21st NATURA BISSÉ FACIAL EVENT June 11th – 13th ALGO FALL 2020 TRUNK SHOW June 17th – 27th LAFAYETTE 148 NY FALL 2020 TRUNK SHOW
@ RODES FOR HIM & FOR HER March 17th RODES’ 106TH ANNIVERSARY April 16th DERBY DIVAS BENEFITTING THE NORTON CANCER INSTITUTE BREAST HEALTH PROGRAM
ISAIA
AG AGL AIRFIELD ALDEN ALGO ANATOMIE ANDREA GOMEZ APL ARMANI BELFORD BLACK HALO BOGLIOLI BYRON CANALI CHLOE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTINE A. MOORE MILLINERY CITIZENS OF HUMANITY CLARA WILLIAMS CO. COLLECTION IRIS COMMON PROJECTS CORNELIANI CUSHNIE DEBORAH GRIVAS DEREK LAM 10 CROSBY DEREK ROSE DIOMI ELI EILEEN FISHER ELLIOTT LAUREN EQUIPMENT ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ETON EYEBOBS FABIANA FILIPPI FAHERTY FERRAGAMO FRANCO FERRARI FURLA FUZZI GENTLE SOULS
GIANVITO ROSSI GIMO’S GOLDEN GOOSE GOOD MAN BRAND GRACIELA GRAVATI GRLFRND DENIM HAGEN HALSTON HERITAGE HARRY’S OF LONDON HERNO HESTRA HILTL HUDSON JEANS ILSE JACOBSEN IRIS SETLAKWE IRIS TRAVEL ISAIA J BRAND JACK MASON JACOB COHEN J’ENVIE JIMMY CHOO JOIE KINROSS KOBI HALPERIN KREWE LAFAYETTE 148 NY L’AGENCE LA PETITE ROBE BY CHIARA BONI LELE SADOUGHI LOVESHACKFANCY MAGNANNI MANOLO BLANIK MARCOLIANI MARGO MORRISON MARION PARKE MEASURE UP MIGNONNE GAVIGAN MILLY MONIQUE LHUILLIER
MOTHER DENIM MZ WALLACE ON CLOUD P448 PANTHERELLA PAUL GREEN PAULE KA PEDRO GARCIA PERU UNLIMITED PETER HUBER PETER MILLAR PRADA PT01 R. HANAUER REDVALENTINO RE/DONE RINO & PELLE ROBERT JENSEN RODO RUTH GRAVES DESIGNS S.M.N STUDIO SAMUELSOHN SANTONI SCARPE DI BIANCO SERPUI SONDRA ROBERTS NY SPANX ST. CROIX ST. JOHN STAYS STUART WEITZMAN TANYA TAYLOR TATEOSSIAN TORINO LEATHER CO. TRASK VALENTINO VINCE WHITE + WARREN YSL YUZEFI ZANELLA ZEGNA
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Ask JIM
solving your fashion dilemmas
Dressing Up DENIM
I cherish my denim jacket. Is there a way I can wear it—as well as my favorite pair of jeans—to go from weekends to work? The good news is that denim today isn’t what your dad used to wear. Modern fashion has not only embraced denim but has expanded its use as it’s showing up everywhere from Hollywood movie premieres to business-casual workplaces. The red carpet has few fashion rules, whereas date nights and office settings still have loose guidelines to follow. For starters, be sure jackets fit properly—nothing too baggy or too tight. When considering length, the bottom hem should hit at your hips. A neat denim jacket can work in a business-casual environment, and in many cases it can be worn as a replacement for a sportcoat. For example, wear it over a checked, button-up shirt or a polo that’s paired with dress chinos or khakis. A pair of high-quality jeans will make every guy look good. An indigo or deep blue-gray pair works in almost every setting, as long as the jeans are neat, clean and close-fitting (not skinny). Dress them up with a button-up shirt and either a vest or a V-neck sweater on top if there’s still a chill in the air.
GETTING SNEAKERS Right
My closet is full of leather and suede sneakers. How can I incorporate them into my attire for the office? Every day can feel like casual Friday—even if wearing a suit is still the norm. Go ahead and wear sneakers with tailored clothing, as long as your suit has a slim silhouette and the trousers end just above your ankles. In fact, it’s cool to show off a little ankle too. Leather and suede sneakers should always be clean, meaning free of dirt and excessive branding (save the logos for the basketball court). Your best bet is to stick to a neutral color palette—pare it down to black, brown, navy and white—as it’s easier to cross the line between casual and business with a timeless design.
SUITED for Summer
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The weather is getting warmer but I’m not ready to give up wearing a suit. What are my options this season? Most of us are naturally more laid-back in warmer months, especially when it comes to fashion. But that doesn’t mean you should forget about style. Linen and seersucker are the ultimate fabrics for summer suits—they’re both lightweight and breathable, and they’ll look great at an outdoor party. If you’re concerned about wrinkles, which we all know are a feature of linen, try a linen/cotton or linen/wool blend. Still wearing a suit to the office? A great option is a high-twist or fresco wool suit in a lighter shade of blue or gray; this material allows for maximum airflow and will wick away moisture. In a business-casual environment, an unstructured sportcoat in a cotton/linen blend or a jersey knit is a smart alternative that’ll make you feel and look cool. R O D E S S P RING/S U M M E R 2 02 0
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derby-day
SURVIVAL
must-haves
Must-haves to stay chic and comfy at Churchill Downs.
Clockwise from top left: sunglasses by Krewe, purse by Christian Louboutin, headband by Lele Sadoughi, crossbody bag, sandal and heel by Valentino, earrings by Jenny Bird.
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loving
CORAL
must-haves This popular tropical hue is all the rage. Clockwise from top left: scarf by Bajra, top by Lafayette 148 NY, wing and hoop earrings by Mignonne Gavigan, sunglasses by Krewe, jeans by Hudson, sneaker by Golden Goose, purse by Staud.
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FRESH
YOU’LL TAKE FIRST PLACE IN FASHION IN THESE DERBY-DAY STYLES.
GIRLS
LUCKY
At right and on cover: dress by Black Halo, fascinator by HeadCandi.
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This page: blazer, camisole and pants by L’Agence, hat by Christine A. Moore. Opposite page: dress by ML Monique Lhuillier, hat by Christine A. Moore, earrings by Cristina Sabatini.
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This page: top and pants by Cushnie, hat by Christine A. Moore, earrings by Cristina Sabatini, sunglasses by Krewe. Opposite page: dress by Milly, hat by Christine A. Moore, sunglasses by Krewe.
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This page: jumpsuit by La Petite Robe by Chiara Boni, hat by Christine A. Moore.
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ONES TO WATCH
This season, Rodes features looks from au courant designers that are both chic and edgy.
This page: top and pants by Lafayette 148 NY, fascinator by HeadCandi. Opposite page, on him: sportcoat by Canali, shirt and pocket square by Eton, tie by Ermenegildo Zegna, pants by Zanella. On her: dress by Paule Ka.
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From left, on him: suit, tie and pocket square by Ermenegildo Zegna, white shirt by Eton. On her: dress by REDValentino, jacket, tank, pants and belt by Fabiana Filippi, fascinator by HeadCandi.
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On him: blazer by Byron, shirt and pocket square by Eton, jeans by Hudson, belt by Torino. On her: dress by LoveShackFancy.
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Ask SUSAN
Rodes’ co-owner and women’s fashion expert shares her insights on today’s hottest designers.
Q
We are seeing a lot of new looks and different brands for women in the store. Why change things up?
A
That’s the exciting part of being in the fashion business—change is the only constant. This spring, designers knock us out with the colors and silhouettes that outline new shapes. We are thrilled to introduce some fresh style perspectives to the floor. We explored the market to find a broad range of designers to curate an offering that enhances our current collections and creates excitement for the next generation of Rodes women’s collection. As Coco Chanel famously said, “Fashion changes, but style endures.” It is this philosophy that guides us in selecting clothing and accessories that help women of all generations feel confident, fresh and timeless. Mixing new, on-trend pieces with long-loved wardrobe staples is the best way for a woman to express her personal style.
Q
What are the new brands you’ve brought into the store and why did you choose them?
A
Susan Vogt, co-owner, is Rodes’ womenswear maven.
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One of the wonderful privileges about dressing women is playing with all the different sides to their personalities. Each of the new designer brands we have at Rodes brings something unique to the mix. While choosing my favorite designer is like choosing a favorite child (it depends on the day), here are our recent additions to the floor for spring 2020. (In no particular order, of course!) REDValentino: Spring is the season to let out your super feminine side. REDValentino fits this bill to a T by incorporating dainty details such as florals, flounce, embroidery and ruffles.
LoveShackFancy: When romance is in the air, this brand really gets us in the mood. Inspired by vintage floral prints and girly hues, LoveShackFancy pieces are the perfect look to wear for storybook endings. Derek Lam 10 Crosby: We don’t always want flowing, feminine frocks. This brand designs classic silhouettes with an edge. Cushnie: Spring and summer are high seasons for weddings, galas and, of course, the Derby! When it’s time to dress to the nines, Cushnie’s pieces provide the wearer with grace and elegance. Eileen Fisher: For everyday easy dressing, this brand does luxe casual better than most. With gorgeous fabrics and cuts, you won’t believe clothing this sophisticated could feel this comfortable. Emporio Armani: Want casual wear that’s more cutting edge? Check out Emporio Armani’s statement-making separates and dresses. Lele Sadoughi: Lele has been at the forefront of driving fashion jewelry and adornment trends for more than 15 years. We are excited to have this self-described maximalist’s statement-making pieces in our store. Monique Lhuillier: This designer’s handiwork is seen up and down the red carpet during awards season, and her readyto-wear collection is just as glamorous and ethereal. We are dedicated to always expanding and updating our denim department. We are very fond of the selections with our favorites from Hudson, Mother and L’Agence, but we are also proud to have included more sustainable collections from RE/Done and GRFD. Even our college intern Eleanor proclaimed that Rodes for Her has the best collection of denim in the city!
PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC
HAIR/MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT
archi/texture / /texture THIS SPRING, FORM MEETS FABRIC TO EXTRAORDINARY EFFECT. FOR DRESS-UP OR CASUAL, LIGHT AND LUXE TEXTURES FEEL AS FRESH AS THEY LOOK. SILHOUETTES, BOTH CLASSIC AND MODERN, ARE BUILT FOR EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE.
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This page blouse and pant: Cushnie Opposite shirt & sweater: Isaia pants & belt: PT Torino
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jacket & shirt: Isaia
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shirt, pant & scarf: Corneliani
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dress: REDValentino shoes: Manolo Blahnik
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FIND WHAT
SUITS YOU!
Whether it’s head-to-toe patterns or mix-and-match separates, this season’s tailored clothing gives you every opportunity to express yourself. Photography by Dan Springston
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Jacket: Isaia, made-to-measure Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton
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This page: Suit, shirt, tie and pocket square: Isaia Bracelet: Tateossian Opposite: Jacket, shirt, tie, pants and pocket square: Isaia
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This page: Jacket: Canali Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Pants: Ermenegildo Zegna Opposite: Tuxedo and shirt: Isaia Bowtie: Brackish Pocket square: Eton
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This page: Blazer: Canali Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Pants: Ermenegildo Zegna Opposite: Suit: Canali Shirt: Ermenegildo Zegna Pocket square: Eton
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SPECIAL PROMOTION
Sartorial SPRING
EILEEN FISHER Introducing Flex Tencel Ponte. Designed to Go Anywhere. Soft, smooth and incredibly resilient. Ponte with the perfect blend of comfort and sophistication.
AIRFIELD AIRFIELD stands for the highest quality, perfect cuts, trendy designs, innovation and sustainability. “Business of the Year 2019 by the Austrian Textile and Clothing Industry.”
AG JEANS AG Jeans presents the new spring 2020 collection Society in Uniform, a reclamation of youth, freedom, and unity.
R. HANAUER R. Hanauer Bow Ties have been part of a gentleman’s wardrobe for over thirty years.
H A N D C R A F T E D I N I TA LY
We travel the world to find artisans who share our passion for upholding quality and creating beauty.
Š2020 A Genesco Company
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PHOTO COURTESY OF CORNELIANI
Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, style director for Corneliani, designs clothes for a type of culture, not just a type of man.
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PHOTO COURTESY OF CORNELIANI
the
CORNELIANI LOOK
“Informality is the new luxury,” says the style director of this esteemed Italian menswear house. By Rita Guarna
Sartorial elegance can have an eloquence beyond words. But we wanted words anyway from Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, style director for the Italian menswear brand Corneliani, so we put him on the spot with a few questions. Here’s what he told us. How would you describe the Corneliani man? “Today it is quite difficult to speak about a specific ‘kind’ of man. I prefer to speak about a ‘tribe’; that is, it’s less about age and more about your social environment and about your culture. Customers choose something not only because of the brand and the actual product, but even more because they feel that they belong to the same world as the brand they are buying. In the case of Corneliani, it’s refined and sophisticated. The Corneliani man knows what’s going on. He’s sensitive to beauty and authenticity; he’s spending money to live an experience, not to own products. He’s an elegant globe-trotter who loves Italy. No matter the age and nationality, our consumers are driven by experience, uniqueness and elegance.” Tell us a bit about the brand’s sartorial psyche. “Corneliani is devoted to excellence. We want to be the curators and creators of Italian style for men. We have a unique style and a distinctive and instinctive sense of Italian refinement and sophistication that comes from our origins, our heritage. Staying true to our roots, we relentlessly uphold the passion of Italian sophistication and lifestyle. Using the best Italian craftsmanship, we wish to create much more than a product: We want to deliver a service, a way of life and an ultimate experience of Italian excellence.” What is your background? “I was born in Milan in the ’70s, and part of my family was already active in the fashion industry. I grew up in my grandma’s big showroom in the center of Milan among beautiful fabrics, furs (at that time they were popular) and lots of tailors. When I was 21, I starting working for a European brand while still studying. It was my destiny to work in this industry, and I love it!” Explain your role as style director and how it differs from that of the creative director. “My role is not very common for our industry. I’m the style director, but at the same time I’m also the general merchandising manager. That means that on one side I have ownership of the creative
aspects of the job; on the other, I need to be very analytical and aware of the competition. I have a great team supporting me in both roles, style and merchandising.” What has been your biggest accomplishment since joining the brand in 2016? “From a ‘social’ point of view, I was very happy to be one of GQ’s Best-Dressed Men in 2019. Professionally, I’m proud to have the respect of the people I work with every day. I hope this beautiful brand becomes a major player in our arena.” What innovations can we expect from Corneliani in 2020 and beyond? “For SS20, Corneliani debuts Circle, a collection of garments made exclusively of natural and organic fibers from suppliers who have embarked on the path of sustainability. With this project, we are renewing our ties with our longstanding clients and new eco-sustainable consumers, who are increasingly attentive to the ‘nature’ of what they choose to wear. This approach represents an alignment with the methods, certifications and international standards that regulate the compatibility of industrial processes. “Innovation is very important, and we are always looking for new ways to represent our DNA. Presently, we are launching a new superlight knit jacket from an Italian supplier that modified its weaving machines to produce a sort of knitted fabric.” What about comfort and fit? “Today, comfort is the key word! We want to wear garments inside and outside, at work and during the weekend. We want to feel at ease and at the same time elegant—in every situation. Basically: effortless elegance in every moment.” What’s a staple in your wardrobe— from Corneliani and beyond? “My style is very simple, as my rule is ‘less is more.’ So in my wardrobe you will find straight-leg vintage Levi’s 501, T-shirts and sneakers. Of course, I have a lot of Corneliani garments, but my favorite is a Corneliani deconstructed and unlined blue suit in a special and exclusive fabric called Flawless. It is a wool Super 160s fabric, which, thanks to the use of nanotechnology to treat the yarn, is made waterproof, anti-stain and non-creasing.” What inspires you? “The truth is, I find inspiration every day from real
life. I’m a very curious person, and I love contemporary art, movies, music. There’s no structured process; it can come from small things. Of course, traveling and learning about new cultures and new habits always let my mind run.” Name a fashion icon you admire. “Audrey Hepburn, for her simple and clean timeless elegance. And Robert Redford for the same reasons.” Tell us something about you that people might not know. “I’m not a compulsive collector, but I love Adidas Superstar trainers. I have them in all possible colors. I’m a size 12, and it’s hard for me to find the right size, so whenever I find a nice pair, I buy them.” What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? “‘Always put yourself in the shoes of other people before judging them.’ And it comes from my mom, my grandpa, my aunt—my whole family.” When you’re not working, where can we find you? “I don’t have much free time, so when I am free, I’m with my family.” What are you most proud of? “My two wonderful daughters.” Do you have any regrets? “No. I have a great job. I love what I do. I have a wonderful family; they are my life. I am a 47-yearold happy man.” Has the social climate of inclusivity and gender fluidity affected your vision? “Fluidity and inclusivity are the dominant characteristics of our time. This continual rhythm of change seems to dictate the beat of a new style. Fashion responds to this, offering concepts suited to the new geographic and existential nomadic restlessness, and ‘hybridization’ becomes the key word for men’s fashion. It is the most modern combination of tailored garments and sportswear. “Corneliani’s SS20 collection has been built around an idea of subtle effortlessness. For this reason, I worked to find new ways to mix and morph worlds and solutions—effortlessly. Informality is the new luxury, mixing shapes and functions, playing with materials, wearing progressive proportions. The result: effortless elegance.”
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BOURBON’S
new moment
The classic whiskey from the Bluegrass State evokes Americana like an old tintype. So why is it suddenly hot? By Darcey Gohring it’s an authentic spirit, made by real people like myself,” she says. “I believe the bourbon boom will continue for many years, because the world is just starting to discover it and we have a lot of room to grow across the globe.” Officially the nation’s only native spirit, bourbon is an American whiskey. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t actually have to be made in Kentucky—although 95 percent of it is, and loyalists say that without the state’s climate and local waters it just isn’t the same. Geography aside, the spirit does require three elements: corn, charred oak and time. It is that high concentration of corn that gives bourbon its initial sweet impression. The rest of the profile is influenced by factors such as aging, other ingredients (typically rye and barley) and the climate in which it is aged. The bourbon gets its rich, golden color—along with much of its flavor—from the charred oak. Besides mint juleps, bourbon can be used in other classics such as a Manhattan, an old fashioned or a whiskey sour or simply mixed into a sweet tea on a warm summer day. Purists say it’s even better served in a whiskey glass neat. If you’re trying bourbon for the first time, Gregory recommends starting with a lower proof and sampling different varieties. “There is a bourbon for every palate,” he says. “Bourbon is very elegant, but very complex. Every one has a little twist: They are all slightly different.” However you try this historic whiskey, take a cue from Kentucky natives—sit back, sip and take a moment to enjoy.
Traditional Mint Julep Ingredients n 2 oz. bourbon n ½ oz. simple syrup n 3 fresh mint leaves n crushed ice Directions Express the essential oils in the mint and rub them inside the glass. To the same glass, add simple syrup, bourbon and crushed ice. Stir. Garnish with more ice and fresh mint.
Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller, Woodford Reserve
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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY, INSET COURTESY OF WOODFORD RESERVE
On the second of May, the mint juleps are sure to be flowing at the 146th Kentucky Derby. And these days that cocktail’s main ingredient, the pride of the Bluegrass State, is finishing in the money. Long a bar staple, bourbon is booming again: In just the past decade, Kentucky alone has gone from under 20 distilleries filling about 450,000 barrels to almost 70 filling 1.7 million. Bourbon has always carried Kentucky, but what makes it newly cool in New York and San Francisco? The answer: a combination of younger people embracing it and bartenders appreciating its versatility in crafting cocktails. “There is a surging cocktail culture—it’s the Mad Men effect,” says Eric Gregory, president of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association. “People are looking for an authentic experience.” Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller at the well-known Kentucky distillery Woodford Reserve, agrees. “Bourbon has been gaining in popularity because
classic
COOL Casual luxury brand Vince brings timeless elegance to Rodes this season. With humidity on the rise and another Kentucky summer just around the corner, breezy fabrics and airy cuts are essential for looking and feeling cool. Vince is a brand that knows a thing or two about dressing for warm weather. Born in Los Angeles in 2002, the brand embodies West Coast style with its elevated, everyday basics. For him, linen is always king, especially in Vince’s wear-anywhere tan Bermuda shorts and a chambray button-front shirt. For her, achieve a sultry look without breaking a sweat in an ensemble that has movement as well as cheeky details such as a deep-V neckline on the blouse and a thigh-high slit on the midi skirt. These looks are just two examples of why Vince is considered the epitome of California luxury for customers from coast to coast—including ours here at Rodes. His shirt and shorts and her blouse and skirt, all by Vince.
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