Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2009
R od e s 3
WAYS TO MULTIPLY YOUR WARDROBE
INTO THE WOODS FALL 2009 IT’S ALL ABOUT
QUALITY
Pure Cashmere Pinstripe Suits
Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) 1-800-866-3112 www.rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Fran Salamon PRODUCTION MANAGER
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
FEATURES 5 7 42 60
Welcome Letter Rodes Happenings Cashmere: A Guide to Value A Recipe for Design
FASHION 15 38 40 44 52
Rodes Fall 2009 Collections It’s in the Details: Shopping for Suits Anatomy of a Quality Shoe Into the Woods Accessories Make the Man
DEPARTMENTS 34 58 62 64 66 68
Ask Forum Travel: Woodland Whimsy World Scene Wheels: Bespoke Spokes Spirits: Party Like it’s 1899 End Page: Regrets Only
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK, TX, BURLINGAME, CA Mario’s PORTLAND, OR, SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX
Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 13 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2009. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 12, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.
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www.armanicollezioni.com
welcome
Dear Friends, We’re all familiar with this line from one of my favorite movies, The Shawshank Redemption: “Get busy living or get busy dying.” While that may be a bit dramatic, the new world order asks that we all change and adapt. While the Rodes building may look the same from the outside, there have been changes going on inside. We all want value for our money, especially in the current economy. As part of this evolution, the clothing industry is responding. Here are a few things you will see: While buying fall 2009 merchandise, our vendors worked to get lower pricing for you this season on everything from Talbott to Brioni. Next, we have increased our online presence by vastly expanding our e-mail system and Facebook pages. Please watch for special e-mail promotions and event updates throughout the year, and go to rodes.com if you are not receiving this valuable information. Additionally, we have been extending the life of your wardrobe through our “Closet Cleans.” If you haven’t yet, take advantage of this free service. We come to your home and spruce up your existing wardrobe, adding a new twist to what you already own. In this changing world, Rodes is a safe place with world class merchandise and service. For over 95 years you have trusted us as your local clothing family. It is our responsibility—and pleasure—to deliver the greatest shopping experience in the world. Thank you for supporting us and all your local merchants during these times. You are why we continue to wake up every day excited about the opportunity to “get busy living”! See you soon, Howard K. Vogt
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HAPPENINGS Rodes Seasonal Fashion Events Rodes For Him and For Her hosts and participates in many events both inside and outside our store. Here is a look at some of our trunk shows, benefits and fashion outings from last season.
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HAPPENINGS Derby Divas On April 16, 2009 approximately 250 “girlfriends” enjoyed refreshments, played the Derby Divas horserace-themed board game and socialized throughout the evening. WAVE-TV’s Jackie Hays emceed the event and $76,000 was raised to benefit the Norton Cancer Institute. You go girls!
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HAPPENINGS Race Review The Rodes Race Review Party on April 23, 2009 was a huge success. Analyst Caton Bredar and author Karen Johnson handicapped both the Oaks and The Kentucky Derby. Karen also hosted a book-signing for her new book The Training Game.
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HAPPENINGS
Customer Appreciation
Rodes’ “Customer Appreciation Day” is held annually on the first Saturday in December. This day is set aside to say “thanks” to our loyal friends and is celebrated with holiday food, drink and the “real” Santa Claus for kids of all ages.
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BEAUTY. BALANCE. LUXURY. Orlanda Olsen crafts her pieces with quality and wearability in mind, using only the finest materials. Her equine collection is internationally recognized and she has many new designs each season. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection. . . exclusively at Rodes For Her.
“I think my jewelry is a blend of Edge and Elegance. The difference between something nice and something sensational is in the details and using the finest materials. I like to give everyone something to buy and create jewelry that evokes an emotional response.”
WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM
Rodes 2009 COLLECTIONS
Bryan Bradley
Rachel Reinhardt Jewelry
Francesco Biasia Handbag
Zenobia
Majorica Jewelry
Mitchies Matchings Gloves
Nanette Lepore
M Missoni
Nanette Lepore
M Missoni
Mary Louise Jewelry
Louise Green Hats
InThings Scarves
Joselyn Furs
St. John
Alexis Bittar Jewelry
Carolina Amato Gloves
Louise Green Hats
Kate Spade
Kate Spade
Zenobia
Kate Spade
Gerard Yosca Jewelry
InThings Scarves
Armani Collezioni
Majorica Jewelry
Autunno
Guido Lombardi
Natorious
Hilton Hollis
Starfire Jewelry
Stuart Weitzman Boots
Toby Pomeroy Jewelry
ETRO
Jose and Maria Barrera Jewelry
Tory Burch Handbags
Stuart Weitzman & Mark Nason Boots
Scott Barber
Nat Nast & Incotex
Nat Nast
Rufus
Mark Nason Boots
Torino Belt
CANALI
Ermenegildo Zegna
Gravati Shoes
Torino Belt
Robert Talbott & Agave
Mark Nason Boots
Torino Belt
Luciano Barbera
Ferragamo Shoes
Torino Belt
ISAIA
Gravati Shoes
Torino Belt
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GILDA’S NIGHT
at Rodes To Benefit Gilda’s Club Louisville Friday, November 13, 2009 6:00 Holiday Cheer 7:00 Light Dinner and Live Auction Rodes For Him & For Her
Gilda’s Club Louisville’s mission is to create welcoming communities of free support for everyone living with cancer—men, women, teens and children—along with their families and friends. The innovative program is an essential complement to medical care, providing networking and support groups, workshops, education and social activities. Gilda’s Club is named in honor of the late comedian Gilda Radner, who in describing the support she received in her own life, called for such places of participation, education, hope and friendship.
ASKFORUM Q:
I’m told I dress well but everything I own is fairly basic. How can I add some personality to my very conservative wardrobe? Simple: with great accessories! It’s a concept that European men understand better than we do: the pocket square, the watch, the cufflinks, the scarf and the sunglasses all speak volumes about your sense of style. Come into the store and we’ll show you the latest accessories for fall ’09, many of them more affordable than you’d guess. What’s more, a great accessory can sometimes become your personal trademark. Our friend Terry wears RayBan Wayfarers, day and night; Dany goes nowhere without his red cashmere muffler; Allyn wears only vintage watches, to which he adds a bright colored leather strap; Bill is rarely spotted without his silver dog tag necklace engraved with his girlfriend’s initials. Once you find an item or two that truly express your personality, your basic wardrobe becomes anything but.
IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
Q:
Why should I invest in made-to-measure clothing when my suit size is readily available?
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It’s a misconception that made-to-measure suits are just for guys with fit problems. The beauty of made-to-measure is not just perfect fit (everyone’s body is somewhat asymmetrical and MTM is the best way to provide balance), but also the ability to custom design the details. Maybe you want working buttonholes on the jacket sleeves, a center vent instead of side vents, notch lapels, exclusive fabric, or a super-slim fit. Whatever your predilection, made-to-measure allows you to have the suit of your dreams. And as we all know, nothing else gives the emotional lift of wearing a fabulous suit!
Aside from the fact that it’s unlikely to last more than a season or two (the glue that affixes the chest piece creates ripples when dry-cleaned), a cheap suit tends to reflect negatively upon the wearer. While not everyone can detect nuances, even an untrained eye is turned off to unnatural shoulder placement, shoddy construction, and cheap fabrics (shiny, stiff, without drape). In contrast, a good suit will get you through any door, is surprisingly comfortable, and will make you feel terrific, powerful and sexy. This is not just marketing propaganda: come into the store and try one on for yourself, just to feel the difference. It’s an investment that’s immediately amortized in more ways than we can list here.
Q:
I’m not a skinny guy; can I wear the new slim-cut suits? Absolutely. If properly fitted, a slim suit will make you look taller, thinner and sexier. It’s not about tight but rather about proportion: a narrower shoulder, trimmer lapels, a narrower trouser leg, higher button stance—all of this gives the illusion of thin. What’s more, our expert tailors will ensure that nothing is tight or uncomfortable. Come into the store and be transformed!
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IMAGE COURTESY OF ZEGNA
ask forum
Q:
There’s so much cheap clothing out there these days; why shouldn’t I buy a $300 suit if it looks decent?
Q:
What’s today’s proper length for men’s coats?
The short answer: anywhere from a few inches above the knee to mid-thigh. Topcoats and trench coats have evolved in recent seasons and these shorter lengths are not just more modern, but also more practical. That said, if you’re emotionally attached to your knee-length or below-the-knee cashmere topcoat, of course you can wear it! Or you can bring it in to our professional tailors and they’ll advise on whether it’s alterable.
IMAGE COURTESY OF ISAIA
clothing
IT’S IN THE DETAILS
How to inspect a suit before you buy. By Jillian Sprague “Quality in a suit has a lot to do with the parts that don’t show,” says John Spillyards, a clothing expert who’s been helping well-dressed men find stellar suits for more than 20 years. Before you invest in a new suit, take a closer look to guarantee your garment is a worthy one. Fabric. A well-made suit feels good to the touch and will be opaque when held up to the light. Tightly woven fibers give a garment strength and resilience, whereas a lesser suit may appear gauze-like, a sign that it will fall apart sooner. Crumple the sleeve and then release it—a quality fabric won’t easily hold wrinkles. Stitching. The best suits are stitched by hand and worth the slightly higher price tag. Skilled tailors spend upwards of 20 hours putting in over 3,000 hand stitches, molding every aspect of the garment into perfect shape to allow for movement and contouring to the
body. Hand stitching also strengthens seams considerably more than machine stitching. Buttonholes. A buttonhole made by machine is rigid and strains when you push the button through. When hand-sewn, it’s soft and flexible, molding around the button instead of tugging at it. Working buttons on suit jacket sleeves are a plus, allowing your cuff more room to move when you’re on the go. Lining. Fine suits are lined with bemberg or silk instead of polyester. There’s a common misconception that half-lined suits are low-quality, but it’s just the opposite: a full lining can hide shoddy tailoring, while the exposure of a half lining ensures that seams are nicely finished. Canvassing. Interior layers of canvas give a suit jacket its shape; the more used, the more constructed your jacket. Better suits have a basted canvas chest piece stitched into
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place; in a cheap suit the canvas is basically hot glued in, resulting in ripples after only a few cleanings. Fit. There’s a return to sartorial tailoring, so if you’re used to the baggier cuts of years past, it might take time to adjust to the new trimmer fit. But since the seams in highquality suits are put in by hand, your garment will quickly mold to your body. The more you wear it, the more comfortable it will become. Service. When you’re considering a major purchase, a good sales associate will take time to explain these aspects of a suit’s construction and help you find the exact fit and style you’re looking for. If you choose to invest in a fine suit, you’ll wear it for years to come and feel like a million bucks each time you do. “High-end suiting is the most legitimate value in the clothing business,” concludes Spillyards.
‘‘
footwear
While shoe trends come and go, the basic components of fine shoe making never waffle.’’
ANATOMY OF A QUALITY SHOE By William Kissel
SHOE CARE TIPS:
• Nothing breaks down footwear faster than water in the leather. Use cedar shoe trees between wearings to absorb the moisture and retain the shoe’s shape. • Don’t wear the same shoes two days in a row; try to rotate them so the leather can breathe between wearings. • Use a good clear polish regularly and colored polish only when the finish has faded.
“Many people underestimate the effect that high quality shoes can have on your entire well-being,” explains Paul Grangaard, the president of American shoe maker Allen Edmonds. “Your feet are the foundation for your entire skeletal support structure.” While shoe trends come and go, the basic components of fine shoe making never waffle. Look first at the quality of the leather. You can tell a high quality shoe by how soft the leather feels, not how thin it looks. Thinner leathers tend to tear easier. Another good barometer is
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the interior lining. A well-made shoe will always have one made of leather to keep your feet comfortable and dry, as well as prevent the interior stitching from chafing your foot. Notice too how the leather is finished, even if the shoe appears to be a classic black. Solid colored shoes sometimes disguise flaws in the skin. “We do a leather called Lucido that has a color overlay, which means the finish goes on black, but as you burnish it there is rich color that shows underneath,” explains Cory Haberman of Cole Haan. Equally essential to first-class shoe making is the sole. The finest dress footwear is always produced with Goodyear-welted sole construction. This means an extra layer of material, known as the welt, is sewn between the upper and the sole, which is customarily made of leather. Because the welt is sewn, not glued, it can be easily taken apart and replaced when the soles develop holes. Many fine shoe makers will gladly resole your shoes for a nominal cost, greatly extending their life. If you factor that into the overall cost, a good pair of shoes can last for decades and ultimately prove to be the smarter investment.
luxury fibers
IT TAKES EACH GOAT FOUR YEARS TO PRODUCE ENOUGH CASHMERE FOR ONE SWEATER.
A GUIDE TO VALUE
Good quality cashmere is one of the most rare, most luxurious and most comfortable natural fibers in the world, its softness unsurpassed. Who would have thought that something so extravagant comes from the fine, fuzzy hair that keeps wild goats warm in the sub-zero temperatures of China, Mongolia and beyond? Style expert Carson Kressley once called cashmere “the flat-screen TV of yarns, the Super Bowl of sweaters.” More than just sweaters, cashmere can be found in a variety of items including suits, jackets and a wide range of accessories. But why is it special, and how do you know if you’re getting a good value? The name cashmere comes from Kashmir, the wild and mountainous area of India where the fiber was originally sourced. Today, fleece also comes from Australia, New Zealand, Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Turkey, but quality differs by region because many places lack the harsh environmental elements of high altitude and cold that allow the goats to grow an ultra-soft
Cashmere isn’t just for sweaters anymore: it can be found in a wide variety of clothing and accessories for men and women.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF LORO PIANA
What you need to know about cashmere. By Nicola Harrison
IMAGE COURTESY OF BRUNELLO CUCCINELLI
coat. In order to survive such extreme conditions, the goats have coarse outer hair, beneath which lies a much finer fiber that insulates these animals from the bitter cold. Only this soft, fine under hair is used in the production of cashmere. While human hair has a diameter of 75 microns, a cashmere fiber cannot be more than 19 microns, with many high-end manufacturers placing the limit at 16 microns. Because of these specifications, it takes each goat four years to produce enough cashmere for one sweater—that’s four miles of yarn! Gathering the fibers is a tedious, labor intensive procedure. After the goat is combed by hand during its shedding season in spring, the harvested fibers are sorted for color, length and fineness. They are then scoured or washed, de-haired (removing the coarser hairs), dyed and spun. Once they’re ready to be made into fabric, the fibers are handframed to a garment’s specifications. Not all cashmere is created equal. Differentiating factors include where the raw fiber originated, whether it was collected by hand or machine, how it was separated, processed or bleached, washed, dyed and spun. A lower quality, low-priced fiber is shorter and more likely to pill and lose its shape. Additionally, if it’s being made into a light colored garment, it must also be bleached, which can weaken the fibers further. Super fine cashmere yarn of the best possible quality can be made only from long fibers. The longer the fiber, the tighter the knit or the weave, which means less pilling and longer life for the garment. While thread count is important when it comes to buying sheets, yarn count or ply count has little to do
with the actual quality of cashmere. Ply is the number of individual strands or threads of hair twisted together to make one yarn. A threeply sweater, rather than being superior to a two-ply, is simply one strand thicker, not better. A higher ply just means more fibers in each yarn, yielding a weightier garment. Consider ply only when you are deciding between a winter sweater to keep you toasty and a layering piece to go under your sport coat. Thin cashmere is not lower quality than a thick winter garment. In fact, summer weight cashmere is often considered even higher in quality (and sometimes price) since it requires finer, more costly yarns and highly specialized expertise to manufacture.
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A quality garment will show very few loose fibers, have a consistent and tight knit with good seam construction, and be soft and sensuous to the touch. But beware of a garment that feels overly soft, almost slippery or buttery. This is due to over-processing of the fiber and could result in quick pilling, premature wear or loss of shape. And look at the tag: just because something says cashmere doesn’t mean it’s pure cashmere. If it isn’t clearly marked 100% on the label, then it probably isn’t. Some garments have only 10 percent cashmere and the rest could be wool. Don’t be afraid of blends (a silk and cashmere blend yields a fabulous touch); just know what you’re getting before you purchase.
INTO THE WOODS
COZY CABLE KNITS... LEAVES UNDERFOOT... CRISP BREEZES... BOLD ORANGES... A BLAZING BONFIRE...
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAL YEE PRODUCED BY SUSAN F.SIDOR
NEW NEUTRALS... PRINTS AND PLAIDS... COOL EVE LOGS ON THE FIRE... PURPLES AND PLUMS...
NINGS... A WARM EMBRACE... MOSS-COVERED ROCKS... R IBB E D CO R D U ROY.. . LIN GE RIN G SU NLI GHT. ..
SHADES OF GRAY... ZIPPED UP... INDIAN SUMMER... HARVEST... SHORTER DAYS... FAMILY AND FRIENDS...
SIGNS OF CHANGE... A CHILL IN THE AIR... NEW SOFT WOOL... SUPPLE LEATHERS... A FULL MOON...
ASSOCIATE PRODUCER: JOHN JONES; ASSISTANT: EILEEN DUFFY; SHOT ON LOCATION AT WINVIAN, LITCHFIELD HILLS, CT; HAIR AND MAKEUP: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: MELANIE SCHERIAU - WILHELMINA MODELS, MARCUS ANDERSON - FORD MEN NYC; JEWELRY BY ROBIN ROTENIER, BUDDHA TO BUDDHA
LONG WALKS... FALLING LEAVES... COZY CASHMERE... BUTTONED-UP COMFORT... LAYERS OF WARMTH...
fashion
ACCESSORIES MAKETHEMAN TRIPLE YOUR WARDROBE’S IMPACT WITH QUALITY ACCESSORIES.
Photography by MICHAEL TAMMARO for RourkeMGT.com Produced by Susan F. Sidor
1. classic
1 SUIT, 3 WAYS Change a suit’s personality with the right accessories. Totally transform the look with a classic tie & cufflinks, modern footwear & a highvoltage pocket square, or pull out all the stops with a trendy belt & cool eyewear.
trendy
3.
modern
2.
fashion
1. classic
1 SPORTCOAT, 3 WAYS Change the look of your sportcoat for any occasion. Update with a great watch & messenger bag, an argyle sweater & 5-pocket cords, or wow ’em with sunglasses & a bold sport shirt.
trendy
3.
modern
2.
classic
1.
MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES; ASSISTANT: TARA FERRI; GROOMING: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: ISA RAHMAN- MAJOR MODELS, AARON LOEWEN- FORD FM2 SASCHA- DNA MODEL MANAGEMENT; WATCHES: MOVADO, EBEL, CONCORD; JEWELRY: BUDDHA TO BUDDHA, ROBIN ROTENIER; EYEWEAR: CUTLER AND GROSS, ROBERT MARC
fashion
DENIM, 3 WAYS Update the attitude ofyour favorite jeans and let them take you from casual to cool. Completely change the look with a cashmere cardigan & scarf, a slick hat & leather bag, or lay low in a hoodie & sneakers.
trendy
3.
modern
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travel
WOODLAND WHIMSY
Connecticut’s hidden gem is an escape for all seasons. By Jillian Sprague Tucked amid 113 acres of quiet forest lies Winvian, a collection of 18 charming cottages, each with a distinct design. Conceived by 15 architects and built from local materials, each has a king-size bed, steam shower and a living area with refrigerator and bar for extreme luxury and comfort. The cottages are all Connecticut-themed, but that’s where the similarities end. Whether you choose to spend the night in Treehouse (a playful cabin perched among branches) or Helicopter (made from the body of a Coast Guard chopper), Winvian will delight your senses. Before your visit, knowledgeable guest assistants will help you decide where to stay. Do you like to cuddle up in front of a crackling fire with a good book? Library is the cabin for you. Do you enjoy horseback riding and all things equestrian? Stable is a perfect fit. They’ll also set up activities you may want to partake in during your stay—from cooking lessons to hot air ballooning, fly-fishing to car racing. The staff of Winvian aims to please, and can accommodate almost any scenario. Reserve one cabin or the entire property; it’s an idyllic setting for a romantic weekend getaway, an intimate wedding or celebration, a corporate retreat or your next family reunion. Whatever the occasion, prepare for an experience unlike any other. For details and rates go to winvian.com.
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ESCAPE FROM REALITY Choose any of Winvian’s unique accommodations and get lost in fantasy land. Top: The Seth Bird House and The Smith Ell. Home to the Hadley Suite, private dining rooms, game room and more, it is freely accessible to all Winvian guests. Middle: The interior and exterior of Greenhouse, complete with two fireplaces and a glass ceiling—perfect for stargazing. Bottom: Treehouse and its unique and colorful living area.
food
A RECIPE FOR DESIGN
‘‘
Many of the world’s top fashion designers are strongly inspired by food.’’
During a recent trip to Italy, I found myself more passionate than ever about two great loves—food and fashion. (Wine, I must admit, is a close third.) The intense textures and brilliant colors of Italian food created a unique juxtaposition of fashion and flavor in my mind. Basil green. Pomodoro red. Eggplant purple. Funghi brown. Mozzarella white. Espresso black. Each subtle shade and hue reminded me of rich jewel-tones, warm earth-tones or stark black and white patterns that I typically associate with artisan-inspired fabrics and fashions. Every meal created a distinctive color palette on my plate. And when we visited friends in
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Abruzzi, there was a new ingredient. The furnishing, you might say. It was the added expression of love and pride in every dish presented. Each recipe, no matter how simple or complex, evoked a broad smile and a fond memory from years past. Was the wine going to my head? I don’t think so. After a few inquiries, I was relieved to discover that many of the world’s top fashion designers are strongly inspired by food. Whether it was a favorite dish or one simple ingredient, the nostalgic stories and happy anecdotes came forth with abundance. Read on for tasty tales and delicious recipes from some of our favorite designers. Buon appetito!
IMAGES BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE
Prepare a fashionable feast to please any palate. By Cally Jamis Vennare
ANNA ZEGNA | Risotto al tartufo d’Alba Ermenegildo Zegna Ingredients: My favorite recipe is Risotto al tartufo d’Alba. I love this dish not only for the refined taste, but also because it reminds me of many happy and joyful moments spent with friends and family. Truffles from Piemonte, the region my family comes from and where my grandfather, Ermenegildo Zegna, founded the Ermenegildo Zegna Group almost 100 years ago, are known to be the best in the world. As they say, “Piedmont comes into its own in fall, the time of truffles.” Somehow, the colors of the Risotto al tartufo also remind me of my family’s tradition. The white of the rice can be associated with the whitest and purest cashmere that has characterized Zegna for all these years, and the color of the truffle is the brown of the ground where Oasi Zegna has extended. A good risotto depends on the quality of the water, which is also fundamental for fabrics. In fact, the water in which our textiles are washed and dyed strongly influences the overall quality and softness. The area of Trivero, in the Biellesi Alps, where the Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna stands, is renowned for the soft and crystal water that perfectly meets the needs of this industry and of cooking! The water that passes through our wool mill is clean enough even to drink, in line with my grandfather’s vision and drive to protect the environment. Accompany this with a red wine like Nebbiolo or Dolcetto, both from Piedmont and the favorites of my oldest brother, Gildo. Prep Time: 20 minutes Cook Time: 20 minutes
2 ½ cups short grained rice, for example Carnaroli or Arborio ½ cup unsalted butter 1 tablespoon very finely minced onion ½ cup dry white wine 4 cups freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano 1 quart simmering beef broth 6 ounces fresh white truffles, brushed clean
Preparation: 1. Sauté the onion in half the butter until it begins to turn golden. Then add the wine and cook over low heat until the onion is falling apart and the wine has evaporated. 2. Add the rice, mix well, and then begin adding broth, one ladle at a time, stirring gently all the while. 3. When the rice has almost reached the “al dente” stage, remove the pot from the fire and stir in the remaining butter and the Parmigiano Reggiano, then slice half the truffles into it using a truffle slicer. 4. Heat the risotto through, transfer it to a serving bowl, and slice the remaining truffles over it.
ROBERT STOCK | Robert Graham When I was young, my mother and grandmother would make Veal Parmigiana and spaghetti on a hero. As children, we called it “Pisghetti.” That is still my favorite dish to this day, and I salivate just thinking about my mother and grandmother cracking the eggs, adding the bread crumbs, dipping the veal and adding fresh mozzarella cheese on top to create this wonderful smell of cutlets frying in a covered pan. Mmm, I can taste it now. Over the years, I have done a lot of design work in Italy, which has
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always brought me back to this fond childhood memory. Because of that, I try to go back to Italy as often as possible (at least 4 times a year). When I’m there I always have flashbacks of my mother in the kitchen making this amazing dish. Whether I’m on vacation or designing fabrics in Italy, I am always searching for that wonderful Veal Parmigiana.
Robert Stock’s Pisghetti Ingredients:
1 cup olive oil for frying 2 veal cutlets sliced thin and pounded flat dry bread crumbs 2 eggs, beaten 1 cup prepared tomato sauce grated parmesan cheese 2 slices mozzarella cheese 1 hero bun spaghetti
Preparation: 1. In a large skillet, heat oil slowly until just bubbly. 2. Dip each cutlet into egg, then into bread crumbs to coat generously. 3. Slowly place cutlets into hot oil and fry on both sides until golden brown. 4. Remove cutlets and lay on paper towels to drain. 5. Preheat oven to 350° F. 6. Arrange cutlets in a baking dish and spoon tomato sauce on top to cover. Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese and top with mozzarella. 7. Bake for 15 minutes or until cheese is melted. 8. Boil water and add spaghetti noodles to pot until cooked. 9. Place veal cutlets on hero bun. Add spaghetti and tomato sauce on top. Close up the bun and enjoy!
world scene
DELICIOUS DESTINATION
Try off-season travel and come home with unforgettable memories (and change in your pocket). By Donald Charles Richardson
WILD WEST
Near Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park is the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa where, in autumn, guests can go on a Grizzly and Wolves Safari. Intrepid explorers depart via safari vehicle for Yellowstone National Park’s grizzly and wolf
territory to observe black bears, wolves and even witness elk “bugling” (ahem, mating). The caravan visits famous spots like Old Faithful and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone Springs, spends two nights in Montana, and ends with a group dinner at the Rusty Parrot’s Four Diamond Wild Sage restaurant.
WEEKEND IN THE COUNTRY
Described by Lord Byron as “Glorious Eden,” Sintra, Portugal is just a few miles from Lisbon. This UNESCO World Heritage Site (in the 19th century, it became the first center of European Romantic architecture) is at its most beautiful during autumn. Preposterously florid castles glimmer in the clear air and you can stroll through the summer home of the kings of Portugal, superb gardens, or the nearby lush forest. Golfers should include a short trip to the Quinta da Marinha. Set on a private estate, the 230-acre course offers extraordinary views (hole number 13 slopes down toward the sea and once on the green, the golfer has the Atlantic Ocean as background). To truly experience Sintra’s glorious past, stay at the recently restored 18th century Tivoli Palacio de Seteais. This 5-star hotel, gracefully positioned on Sintra’s mountainside, offers legendary service and views of the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace.
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ABOVE: SMALL LUXURY HOTELS OF THE WORLD; LEFT: GETTY BELOW: IMAGE COURTESY OF TIVOLI HOTELS
Italy’s food is always wonderful, but reaches ambrosial heights in autumn, when wild mushrooms and truffles pop up on dinner menus. In Florence, JK Place is a tiny, antique-filled hotel behind a modest townhouse façade, with several off-season arrangements to make the Italy lover’s mouth water. Their cooking class includes a trip to the market with the chef. You can drive a Mercedes to the Chianti Classico region for a tour of the antique olive pressing machines, or visit the wine country and stroll through picturesque vineyards. Italy, autumn, food and wine. Una combinazione superba.
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wheels
BESPOKE SPOKES Cycling comes of age. By John Jones
Custom carbon tubing from Serotta offers performance and comfort unobtainable in other materials.
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Never has there been more truth to the maxim “the only difference between the men and the boys is the price of their toys.” The industry average for an off-the-rack road bike is $1500, but custom bike enthusiasts easily spend $3000 or more on their bespoke spokes, which today average around $8000 and peak at around $25,000. Why pay so much? For increased style, performance and especially comfort. “Some just want to ride without the pain they get from an average bike fitted to an arithmetical mean,” says custom bicycle builder Paul Levine of NYC’s Signature Cycles. “Like other professional equipment, there are diminishing returns on performance. The biggest bang for the buck is around $6500. Spending twice that only nets a 20 percent improvement. But to a serious cyclist, that 20 percent can be very important.” Levine (a former retail consultant and bike hobbyist) also plans cycling vacations through exotic locales like Mallorca, Tuscany and the Pyrenees. Working with GPM10, a touring company based in London, cyclists stay in the finest hotels, dine at top gourmet restaurants and are treated to professional training advice, massages, and TLC for their bikes. But be warned: these rides are serious workouts, sometimes on courses that are part of the Tour de France! Who are today’s serious cyclists? Regular clients at Levine’s shop include Senator John Kerry, celebrity hair stylist Frédéric Fekkai and, before he headed out to L.A., late-night host Conan O’Brien.
Fits You Well.
INTRODUCING THE ALL-NEW
2010 E-CLASS SEDAN
The all new 2010 Mercedes-Benz E-Class at Tafel Motors is quite simply, the most advanced automobile Mercedes-Benz has ever created. The E-Class watches over you with benefits such as ATTENTION ASSIST technology helps to awaken you if you should start to doze, Lane Keeping Assist alerts you if you begin to wander. And DISTRONIC PLUS will even apply brakes, if necessary, should you become distracted. If you want to see the future of the automobile, just look at the all new E-Class at Tafel Motors.
TAFEL MOTOR CO. 4156 Shelbyville Road | Call: 896-4411 | Shop on-line at www.tafelmotors.com
spirits Seattle Mixologist David Neslon pours his take on a classic gin cocktail.
PARTY LIKE IT’S 1899
IMAGE BY KRISTIN ZWIERS COURTESY OF TAVERN LAW
Classic cocktails make a contemporary comeback. By Robert Haynes-Peterson
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Old Fashioneds, Sazaracs, Manhattans: They’re baaa-ack! Classic cocktails—that is, preProhibition libations—are making the rounds at pubs, faux speakeasies and drinker’s dens around the country. Suddenly, you’re seeing bitters, cordials, and egg white (egg white!) show up on menus where Cosmos and Appletinis once dominated. “Mixology, as a craft, started in America,” says David Nelson, bar manager for Seattle gastropub Spur and the recently opened 19th century-inspired Tavern Law, where each April you’ll find the “Income Tax,” a 1905 concoction featuring gin, sweet and dry vermouth, orange juice and bitters. “Before Prohibition, bartending was an art form. After that, it was almost a criminal act.” What its return means for us is really, really good cocktails, crafted from really, really good ingredients. Entertaining at home? Pick up a reprint of the 1862 How to Mix Drinks, or The Bon-Vivant’s Companion, by America’s original celebrity mixologist Jerry Thomas, at www.drinkupny.com.
Louisville’s Finest Magazine slmag.net
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REGRETS ONLY
When a bargain is not a bargain. By William Kissel
With the economy as tough as it is these days, I’ve been questioning the amount of money I spend on clothes. (Don’t ask…) Newly tempted to get frugal, I must admit that I’ve recently succumbed to shopping at discount stores and even sales at major department stores. I mean, who doesn’t love a great deal? But like those pesky credit card statements that keep coming in the mail, you don’t know what you’re getting into until you examine the fine print. Most recently, at an off-price store, I found a terrific-looking pair of linen cargo shorts from an unknown designer that had been seriously marked down. I had to dig through the muck—leftovers from bygone seasons—to find them. But when I did, I could hardly believe my eyes: the original $225 price tag was marked
down to a mere $36, no doubt less than the store actually paid for them. Ordinarily I would think I got a terrific bargain. But when the buttons starting falling off the first time I wore them, I began to wonder if I’d found such a treasure after all. (Don’t even ask what happened after they were laundered.) On another occasion, I got so caught up in the excitement of the sale that I ended up buying things—a linen sweater one size too large, a pair of jeans one size too small—that I didn’t really want and would subsequently never wear. In the end, the thrill I got from scavenger shopping turned to disappointment when a closet full of must-haves became must-get-rid-ofs shortly after purchase.
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Don’t get me wrong—I still respond to a great deal and feel fortunate when I get one. A bargain is great if the item in question is well-designed, well-made and backed by a reputable retailer. But as a fashion authority by trade, my appearance is everything. So I’m learning to be a less impulsive and smarter shopper, to do my homework on my favorite makers and buy only with the certainty that I’m getting the best. For in the end, it’s the beautiful designer clothing that I pull out of my closet most often, wear with the most confidence, and that ultimately becomes my signature, a true reflection of my better self. Recession or otherwise, some investments are worth the price.
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