P r e s e n t s
T H E U LT I M A T E G U I D E 2 0 1 5 B E G I N N E R - F R I E N D LY G U I D E
Build A Killer PC
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pages of HARDWARE REVIEWS INSIDE!
Make a console crushing pc for less!
Be VR ready Be prepared for Oculus Rift and Steam VR
Special 09
Windows 10 Tips and tricks for your PC’s brand new OS
Custom cases inspired by Iron man and Skyrim How to overclock CPUS and GPUS: Get the most out of your PC hardware Intel’s Skylake CPUs: All you need to know
PC gaming starts here
Reviewed CPUs I Cases I Graphics cards I Streaming devices I Motherboards I SSDs I GPUs I Coolers I Monitors I Mice I Headsets
HARDWARE Welcome
T H E U LT I M AT E G U I D E 20 15
Build a better PC Hello! In this book we’ll show you how to build a PC from scratch, as well as the best components you can buy for your rig and loads more. We’ve got a huge 10-page guide illustrating how a PC is put together starting on page 8, with a component buyer’s guide on page 18 and even tips on making your PC look the part starting on page 50. There’s so much more besides in these pages. We have an entire section dedicated to VR, with eyes-on experiences of both the Oculus Rift and the HTC Vive, as well as what you’ll need to get started when VR finally arrives later this year and into 2016. Then, in the back half of the book, we take a comprehensive look at the components market with a big lot of hardware comparison tests. If you’re already a PC gamer or you’re just looking to get started, this book will help you find everything you need. There’s no better way to play than on PC.
SAMUEL ROBERTS EDITOR
samuel.roberts@futurenet.com
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Contents Guides
08 How to build a PC
Step-by-step on building a new rig.
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18 Buyer’s guide
Components for every budget.
22 Windows 10
Get started with the new Windows.
28 CPU overclocking
Get the most from your processor.
34 GPU overclocking
Push your graphics card to new levels.
40 Mechanical keyboards An advanced guide to keyboards.
Features 44 Skylake
Are Intel’s CPUs worth an upgrade?
50 Modifying your case Add LEDs and more to your PC.
54 Are you VR ready?
What you’ll need for VR’s arrival.
60 SteamVR
Experiencing Valve’s take on VR.
64 Oculus Touch
Trying out Oculus VR’s controllers.
66 Lab work
Testing CCP’s VR prototypes.
68 VR experiences
Neat examples of how VR wows us.
74 5 of the best custom cases See a PC case that is also Iron Man.
Supertest 82 Motherboards
The best X99 motherboards around.
88 CPUs
Comparing the value of CPUs.
94 Coolers
Keep temperatures down with these.
102 SSDs
Get the greatest high-speed storage.
108 Graphics cards
The highest-end graphics cards rated.
114 Monitors
Verdict on 4K and 1440p monitors.
120 Streamers/cases
Devices for streaming and cases rated.
130 Headsets
The best choices in game audio.
136 Wireless/wired mice For whatever rodent you require.
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Reviewed
Motherboards
64
CPUs
Coolers
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SSDs
Graphics cards
Monitors
22 Streaming devices/cases
Headsets
60 Wired and wireless Mice
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hardware Glossary
The PC Glossary A handy reference to some of the most important components in PC hardware.
ATX (ATX, Micro ATX)
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The main desktop PC motherboard size family, ATX-class motherboards range between the size of a newspaper and a text book. Most high-performance motherboards come in this form factor, as the size allows for the supplemental circuitry required for sustained, stable high-performance operation and features such as multiple high-speed PCI slots, extra DRAM banks and SATA ports.
CPU (Central Processing Unit)
ITX (Mini-ITX, Nano-ITC, Pico ITX)
The primary computational engine of a PC. Modern CPUs are divided into cores, typically 2, 4 or 8, which largely function as separate processors and allow the computer to perform multiple tasks (called threads) concurrently. Current CPU designs also absorb functions previously relegated to external devices, such as floating point computation, memory control and most recently, graphics.
A small motherboard form factor family ranging between the size of a softcover book and a deck of cards. This form factor is popular with boutique builders, media center enthusiasts and DIY hobbyists but offers limited performance potential and higher component costs.
BIOS (also Firmware)
CPU Socket
The Basic Input and Output System or BIOS is the low-level operating system of a component such as a motherboard or graphics card, often made user accessible via a set of option screens that are exposed to configuration at boot time. Later BIOS specifications include the UEFI standard, which allows for more flexibility in underlying architectures and device configuration.
This is where the CPU is secured on the motherboard, usually via a lever arm and a series of fastening screws or clips. Current desktop sockets for Intel include LGA1150 for Haswell/Broadwell processors, LGA1151 for Skylake, and LGA2011 for the Haswell-E enthusiast platform, while AMD sockets include FM2+ for Kaveri APUs and AM3+ for remaining FX CPU variants.
Chipset
GPU (Graphics Processing Unit)
Motherboards manage their functions with a series of integrated circuits collectively known as the chipset. The chipset’s specifications determine many performance aspects including memory support, overclocking potential, expansion capabilities and CPU compatibility.
Often used interchangeably with Graphics Card, GPU refers specifically to the chip that controls the graphics subsystem. The GPU is the main factor in determining gaming performance and the most demanding component in power and bandwidth. Advanced designs require dedicated banks of high-speed GDDR5 memory and multiple power connectors.
THE ULTIMATE GUIDE 2015
Motherboard Motherboards host the CPU, DRAM, data drives and any add-in cards via a variety of slots, sockets and connectors. Modern motherboards are also fashion statements, adorned with colour schemes, logos and artfully sculpted metal covers and heat sinks.
PCIe (PCI Express) The Peripheral Connect Interface Express bus is a high-speed expansion slot designed to accept add-in components such as graphics cards. Data in the PCIe specification is transmitted via lanes, of which up to 32 can be used in a single slot, although 16 is the more common limit.
PSU (Power Supply Unit) PSUs provide a motherboard and components with the power needed for stable operation. Computer power supply units are designed around several size and output standards and are rated for wattage and efficiency using the voluntary 80 PLUS certification program.
RAM (DRAM Module) Dynamic Read Access Memory modules populate the memory bank slots on most motherboards and provide the host computer with an addressable space to store and manipulate computational results. DRAM modules come in several packages and speeds, the most popular being 240-pin Dual Inline Memory Modules (DIMMs) for desktop DDR2/ DDR3 applications. Extremely high-speed DRAM modules suffer from longer access latency, so a balance of speed and latency values are often needed for best combined performance.
SATA (Serial ATA) SATA is a bus interface standard used for storage devices such as hard drives, SSDs and DVD recorders. SATA devices encompass a family of interfaces separated by connector size and performance potential. Original specifications featured transfer rates of 150 MB/s (1.2 Gbit/s), but later revisions have raised that to 600 MB/s (4.8Â Gbit/s) and beyond.
HARDWARE Glossary
SSD (Solid State Drive) Solid state drives eliminate the rotating platters of their mechanical counterparts, replacing them with banks of high-quality nonvolatile RAM. SSDs feature very high performance and smaller packaging but have the drawbacks of decreased storage size and increased cost. Many power users boot from an SSD and use a supplemental mechanical hard disk for bulk storage.
Thermal Paste/ Thermal Interface Material (TIM) Thermal paste is a viscous, heat-transferable material used between a heat sink and the lid of a chip to increase the efficiency of a cooling system. When used sparingly it ensures both surfaces remain in full contact despite any micro scratches or other imperfections that would prevent heat dissipation.
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HARDWARE How to build a PC
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THE ULTIMATE GUIDE 2015
HARDWARE How to build a PC
How to build a PC Building a PC is a huge part of the joy of PC gaming. No-one starts off as an expert PC builder, though, and here we’ll take you through the entire process step-by-step. By James Davenport
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HARDWARE How to build a PC
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Prepare the chassis Let’s build. First, take off both side panels on the case. You’ll need access to both sides for inserting hardware, cable management, and general ease of access. It can get crowded, quick. Move any cables inside of the case out of the way. We’ll get to those soon enough.
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Insert the motherboard Once the chassis is prepped, it’s time to insert the motherboard. This chassis has a convenient built-in standoff that centres the motherboard for you. Not all cases will have one, so when you place it down – gently – there may be some resistance up against the I/O shield. This is normal. Just make sure no metal prongs accidentally get lodged into a USB port. Once the motherboard is aligned with the standoffs, screw down the centre – don’t tighten yet – and then do opposite corners. Screwing in opposite corners is a good rule of thumb for installing anything in a PC, as it lowers the risk of misaligning and potentially damaging your hardware. Tighten the screws bit by bit until the motherboard is firmly in place, but don’t overdo it. As long as it isn’t jostling around, it should be secure.
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Motherboard prep Your chassis should include motherboard standoff screws, as pictured (sometimes they’re gold instead of black). These prevent your motherboard from making direct contact with the back of the chassis, which could short out the board. Reference the holes on the your motherboard to see where the standoffs need to be, since this can vary model to model. Screw them in tightly.
Take the I/O (input/output) shield and line it up with the frame from inside the case. This thin plate keeps out dust and ensures you have more control over air circulation. Make sure you have it facing the right direction before you pop it in. Again, check your motherboard for reference. Push in, making sure to not press too hard on the center (but you might have to really press hard on those edges). There should be a satisfying click from each side letting you know the shield is firmly in place.
HARDWARE How to build a PC
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Seat the processor Good job. If you’re reading this and not cursing or crying, you’ve got a motherboard in a PC case. Next up we deal with the most important part of any PC: the CPU. Treat the CPU like an inexplicably living brain in a glass jar. Hold it at the edges and avoid touching the underside. Any finger grease on
that sucker can mess with the heat diffusion, which is not good on one of the most expensive, vital, volatile PC components. To install it, lift the lever on the CPU socket on the motherboard, remove the plastic placeholder, and locate the golden arrow on your CPU. This, and the notches on your CPU, will let you know how to align the CPU above the slot. Make sure everything is matched up, then carefully lower the CPU straight down onto the
socket. It should fit in effortlessly, so don’t put any extraneous pressure on it. CPUs are easily damaged. Once the CPU is in place (check again, scrub), lower the socket shield and secure it by pulling and locking the metal lever down. You’ll feel plenty of resistance, and likely a few heart palpitations, but try not to worry too much, everything is (probably) okay.
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HARDWARE How to build a PC
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Put in the power supply First, take a breath. The CPU is in. Congrats. Now, for something much simpler: A PC isn’t powered entirely by magic, so a power supply (PSU) will be necessary. Ours is a completely modular unit, meaning we can plug and pull cables as needed. Some PSUs have cables built into the unit, making cable management a hassle, so if you can, go modular. Installing is simple. Just make sure the PSU fan is either facing the chassis vent (or upwards if it works in with your airflow scheme) and then screw it in from the outside of the case.
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Install the cooler Heat sucks, especially for CPUs, which is why installing a cooler is vital, especially if you plan to overclock. Now, this step will vary depending on what type of cooler is being installed, so be sure to refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for the intricacies of installation. If you’re using a stock Intel cooler, installation is as simple as lining up the small fan and pressing down each corner until the legs snap into the motherboard. We’ll be installing a closed-loop liquid cooler on our build pictured here. Most coolers require some kind of backplate installation, which means you’ll be coming from the underside of your motherboard. For ours, we just placed the backplate into the corresponding holes on the motherboard surrounding the CPU and stuck it there with a foam adhesive that came with the cooler. With an air cooler, you’ll probably thread
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Ready the RAM With the PSU in, time for another simple step: the memory. First, you’ll need to locate the DIMM slots. Any DIMM-wit could do it! Sorry, that wasn’t helpful. They’re the four, thin, RAM-length slots next to the CPU. In order to take advantage of any dualchannel functionality, you’ll need to install the RAM in alternating slots.
mounting screws through the top of the motherboard and attach them to the backplate with nuts. On the top side, directly over the CPU, goes the cooler itself. Make sure to align each corner around the CPU before you then screw it into place. Throughout the inside of the chassis, there are vents and corresponding holes for fan placement. With our liquid cooler, the radiator, a square metallic mesh used for heat diffusion, attaches to an intake fan on the inside of the case. The inside of every case will have designated areas for fans, so find one that fits a radiator, a fan, and doesn’t force the tubes into an awkward position. From there, you just screw it in. Finally, plug the cooler’s power cable into the motherboard. Again, the motherboard manual should indicate where the pins are in case they’re not labeled on the board itself. For our liquid cooler, we plugged into CPU_FAN and W_PUMP.
Refer to your motherboard documents for details, but for us, the slots were labeled. Placing the RAM is simple. Make sure the locks at the end of each slot are open, find the notch in your RAM, line it up the notch in the slot, insert it, and push until the lock clicks and the RAM is securely in place. Don’t be afraid to push down hard. Do this and be free.
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