Canon Camera
NE W
The
FREE Over 2 hours of video tutorials
The independent guide to mastering your Canon camera
ninth edition
Digital Edition
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For all Canon models
Master your Canon • Get the best add-ons • Edit images
Contents 08
A guide to your Canon camera Learn more about Canon cameras with our handy guide
Guide to Canon
Use your Canon
20 Ultimate guide to Canon lenses
38 Guide to Canon modes
Explore the lens options available to help you capture the full picture
28 Essential kit for your Canon Get the gear to help you take better images
28 Essential kit
Discover how your Canon’s mode dial can help you develop your skills
48 Frame like the pros with Canon Craft the perfect shot, no matter what genre, by mastering the art of composition
58 Master metering For more creative control over your photos and crisp images, metering is a skill that demands mastering
64 Canon exposure exposed Control the exchange between subject and sensor
72 Master shutter speeds Control your shutter speed to create motion effects
78 One light portraits
“If you don’t perfect the composition, you won’t have a strong image” 6 The CANon Camera Book
“Canon has long been a brand that photographers from all over the world can trust”
Advanced Techniques
92 Master pro landscape
78 One light portraits Master a simple setup and shoot professional portraits with minimal kit
compositions
88 Master off-camera flash Discover how to capture dramatically lit portraits with off-camera flash
90 Fake a dark background Create a dark backdrop in-camera in brightly lit environments
126
92 Master pro landscape compositions Everything you need to know to take better landscape photographs
102 Shoot in black and white Create contrast and elegance
58 Metering tips
136 Capture
light trails
110 Capture a mono seascape Create fine art black-and-white seascapes
114 Shoot architecture Explore your options for shooting buildings
124 Focus in low light Learn to focus when light levels fall
126 Shoot sharper action Perfect your sports and action photography with our top tips
136 Create and capture ribbons of light Discover how to paint with light
142 Learn to shoot macro like a pro Improve your close-up captures
Shoot sharper action
Edit your Canon images 154 The essential guide to editing Transform images from average to awesome
162 Fix your photos Vital edits and how to achieve them
168 Subtly enhance portraits Use the Liquify filter to perfect portrait images
170 Master RAW conversion Get the most out of your file processing
172 Make quick edits in Lightroom Use Lightroom presets to streamline editing
174 Edit with clipping masks in Photoshop Make impactful photographs using one of Photoshop’s most useful tools
The CANon Camera Book 7
Your Canon camera
A great, affordable entry-level camera to dive into the world of DSLR photography
Canon EOS 200D Fear not, the 200D will help make you a better photographer Technical data Model Canon EOS 200D Price £509 /$699 Megapixels (effective) 24.2MP Max resolution (pixels) 6,000 x 4,000 22.3 x 14.9mm Sensor information Lens dependent Zoom/focus/macro Shutter speed 30-1/4,000 sec ISO sensitivity 100-25600 AV, TV, P, M, Auto Exposure modes Metering options Evaluative metering, Partial metering, Spot metering, Centre-weighted average metering N/A Flash modes HDMI mini, Hi-Speed USB Connectivity Weight 15.98 oz (453g) Dimensions 4.82 x 3.65 x 2.75” (122.4 x 92.6 x 69.8mm) Li-ion Batteries Storage SD, SDHC or SDXC (UHS-I) card LCD Vari angle touchscreen 7.7 cm (3.0”) Viewfinder: Pentamirror
16 The canon Camera Book
T
he EOS 200D is noticeably small and weighs only around 450g, making it extremely portable. This camera is aimed at someone who is totally new to the world of DSLRs, and Canon has done a great job at making it as simple as possible to use. The company really wanted the model to be less intimidating to newcomers compared with some of the other cameras on the market, and we’d argue that they’ve certainly succeeded. The camera even has a guide mode which helps to you to understand shooting techniques, so you can advance with your photography and not remain in full auto. With a maximum burst rate of five frames per second, it might not instantly appeal to those wanting to shoot sport, but it’s still ample. The EOS 200D comes equipped with a Digic 7 processor and a 24-megapixel sensor, which will help to deliver the latest image quality that Canon has to offer. Also included are a whole host of handy connectivity features, enabling you to take control of your camera remotely, whether that be for taking or viewing your images. The use of the fold-out screen is a great feature for those wanting to use the camera more creatively, or even for using it to take selfies. Rotating the screen
180 degrees and holding the camera up to your face will enable selfie mode. In this mode, the camera will help achieve smoother skin detail and will adjust the aperture to create a shallow depth of field for the perfect self-portrait. The sensor that Canon decided to use in this camera is shared with many of the other models in their collection, so rest assured that you will be getting the same fantastic image quality. One of the main attractions of this camera is the very appealing price. You could easily spend thousands on cameras looking for the best image quality or range of features, but if you’re a newcomer this model is capable of taking great images and teaching you along the way. At 24 megapixels you’re not being left behind and you’ll certainly be able to make some great prints.
Summary This camera’s simple and intuitive user interface is a great way to start learning the possibilities of shooting with a DSLR. Twinned with a 24MP sensor, you will be ready to start taking some great images
Canon EOS 800D
The EOS 800D is a great way to start your first DSLR adventure
Technical data Model Canon EOS 800D Price £779/$1,099 (body only) Web www.canon.co.uk Megapixels (effective) 24.2MP Max resolution (pixels) 6000 x 4000 Sensor information 22.3 x 14.9mm CMOS Lens data Lens dependent Zoom Lens dependent Focus/macro Lens dependent Shutter speed 30-1/4000sec, Bulb ISO sensitivity 100-25600 (expandable to 512000) Exposure modes Scene Intelligent Auto, Creative Auto, Portrait, Landscape, Close-up, Sports, six scene modes, P, S, A, M Metering options CW, S, E, P Flash modes A, Manual flash, Integrated Speedlite Transmitter Weight 532g (body only) Dimensions 131.0 x 99.9 x 76.2mm
T
he Canon EOS 800D is the perfect entry level DSLR for beginners and those wanting to start taking more control of their photography. The new EOS 800D replaces the 750D in the EOS line up and has a plethora of upgrades that make it worth a look. The entry level DSLR houses a 24.2 megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor with the DIGIC 7 processor and has the same sensor technology found in the EOS 80D. Like the EOS 77D, you will be able to shoot at up to ISO 25600, which is extendable to 51200, and enables successful low-light shooting. It also has a 45-cross type AF points for quick focussing and tracking objects accurately. The fast and responsive camera features a bright optical viewfinder that will show the world as it really is and the camera will shoot at 6fps. The vari-angle touchscreen will enable you to capture and compose images at awkward angles and you’ll be able to tap to focus and shoot too and the world’s quickest Live View AF system at the time of writing focuses in as little as 0.03 seconds for pin-sharp results. For less experienced photographers, the EOS 800D’s guided interface will take you through how camera settings work as you shoot, which will help users develop their photography skills, while capturing high-quality imagery. The simple built-in wireless connectivity makes sharing your imagery easier than ever before.
Take control of your imagery with the intuitive controls and handy top panel LCD screen
Summary The perfect choice for beginners and enthusiasts looking to learn new skills and take more control of their photography, Its many features, impressive sensor and guided interface make the EOS 800D an ideal first DSLR
Canon EOS 1300D
If you are just getting started in photography, this is the line-up’s most accessible camera
Technical data Model Canon EOS 1300D/ Rebel T6 Price £349/$549 (bundled with EF-S 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS II lens) www.canon.co.uk Web Megapixels (effective) 18MP Sensor information APS-C CMOS sensor Zoom By lens Focus/macro By lens Shutter speed 30-1/4000sec, Bulb ISO sensitivity 100-6400(expandable to 12800) Exposure modes Scene Intelligent Auto, Creative Auto, Portrait, Landscape, Close-up, Sports, Night Portrait, P, A, S, M Metering options Evaluative, Partial metering at centre, Centre-weighted average metering Auto, Manual Flash On/off Flash modes Weight 485g (with battery) Dimensions 129.0 x 101.3 x 77.6mm
The images are pleasingly smooth, with reliable colour reproduction and well-controlled noise
D
epending on the kind of photography you do and your needs, you might not necessarily want to jump straight in and buy a top of the range DSLR when upgrading from a compact system camera or smartphone. If you’re just starting out, it’s a good idea to consider a camera such as the EOS 1300D, known as the Rebel T6 in the USA. There are fewer significant compromises than you might think, when compared to a higher end camera
such as the EOS 5D Mark IV. The viewfinder offers you 95% of the scene, rather than 100%, but this simply means that you just have to keep this in mind when composing, so that you don’t end up with unwanted elements in the frame. An 18-megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor is at the heart of the camera, and it is supported by a DIGIC 4+ processor. Compared to the DIGIC 7 processor of the M5, this delivers a little less speed and performance, so there’s just 3fps continuous shooting on offer, but in all truth this is more than enough for most people in most photo situations. A maximum ISO setting of ISO 6400 (expandable to ISO 12800) may not be as dizzyingly high as found on more advanced models but it’s more than enough for most situations. The 3-inch LCD screen is a 3-inch has been updated from the 1200D to 920,000 dot resolution and Wi-Fi and NFC connectivity have both been included.
Summary A fantastic starter camera for those just taking their first steps in digital SLR photography – with a price tag to match. Keeps things simple and easy to use, it is user-friendly while still producing high-quality shots The canon Camera Book 17
Use your Canon
Use a slow shutter speed to blur moving water, creating an artistic effect that really stands out
Tv mode
A fast shutter speed has been used here to freeze movement and capture every drop of water
Learn how to freeze action and incorporate stylish motion blur in your photographs by using your Canon’s Shutter Priority mode
N
ow it’s time to rotate the mode dial around to Tv (Time value) to select the Shutter Priority mode. It works in the exact opposite way to the Aperture Priority mode, in that while you select your ideal shutter speed, the camera takes care of the aperture to ensure a balanced exposure of your image. Using the Shutter Priority mode, you will be able to experiment with much shorter or longer exposure times, depending on what you’re shooting and the effects you want to capture on camera. Using this mode on your Canon camera, you’ll essentially be able to determine how much light reaches the sensor from the lens. Faster shutter speeds, that are only a fraction of a second, will let in the least amount of light, so to avoid underexposing your image the camera will compensate by using wider aperture settings, to let in a larger volume of light. Fast shutter speeds are ideal if you’re shooting action-packed images, as they’re quick enough to freeze movement, preventing blurry shots. Always work with faster shutter speeds if you’re photographing children, wildlife, sports or pets. Slow shutter speeds on the other hand, can range between 1/60sec to a full 30 seconds. An increase in exposure time means you’ll need to use a tripod to ensure you get a steady shot. As a general rule,
46 The canon Camera Book
it’s still possible to shoot handheld with the camera, provided you’re working with shutter speed settings that are no slower than 1/60sec, depending how stable your handling of the camera is. To avoid overexposing an image that has a longer exposure time, the camera will set a smaller aperture, which will reduce the amount of light that’s let in through the lens to the sensor. If you’re working with extreme long exposures, however, you’ll need to use an ND filter to further reduce the amount of light that passes through the lens. ND filters are commonly used by landscape photographers who want to capture cloud movement or misty water effects in their scenes, by extending shutter speeds and using smaller apertures for increased depth of field. Generally speaking, long exposures are ideal if you’re shooting stationary subjects under low-light conditions or at night. Some cameras even offer what’s known as a Bulb mode, which means you can open the shutter for as long as you like, until you opt to press the shutter release button again to close it. This is extremely useful for creative effects and is often used to capture scenes such as star trails across the night sky. You will discover that there are actually plenty of other creative shooting techniques you can explore whilst you’re in your Shutter Priority mode.
Use your Shutter Priority mode to incorporate a sense of speed in your shots. The camera will determine the aperture for an even exposure
Panning, for example, is a fantastic way to illustrate speed in a sport or energetic subject. Simply set a slow shutter speed of around 1/50sec and focus on your subject. Once you open the shutter, you’ll then need to pan with them until it closes ensuring that you minimise shake as much as possible. When you have done this, the results should allow your subject to appear nice and sharp while the background is softly blurred. You can also create a zoom burst by zooming out quickly while the shutter is open for a creative, directional blur. You’ll find some fantastic shooting techniques are possible in Shutter Priority mode, which makes it worth experimenting with a bit before you’re ready to step up to full Manual mode.
Use your Canon
M mode
It’s time to take complete control over your Canon in Manual mode and discover all of the creative possibilities available
T
he Manual mode is the most advanced option on the mode dial. Rotate the dial round to M to select the Manual mode on your Canon camera, then program in your shutter speed and aperture setting for the shot. In this mode it’s possible to experiment with different photographic effects and techniques, offering you complete creative control over your images, although this will take a bit of trial and error until you are fully comfortable using it. Before you get ahead of yourself in this mode, however, it’s a good idea to get a basic understanding of what makes for a balanced exposure. You can find this out exploring the Programmed Auto, Aperture and Shutter Priority modes first before venturing into the advanced level of the Manual mode. Using these modes you’ll be able to select either your shutter speed or aperture setting while the camera takes care of the rest of the work. When you’re working in these modes, pay attention to how the camera compensates for the setting you select as this will help you when you move to Manual. If you’re working with a wide aperture, for example, notice the shutter speed setting that the camera opts for.
You can then dial in the same settings as a starting point using the Manual mode, and begin exploring different setting combinations. When you’re working in Manual mode, select a shutter speed. Remember that faster speeds freeze movement, while slower ones capture motion. You can then select your aperture, remembering that the smaller the f-number the wider the aperture. Don’t forget that wider apertures create a shallower depth of field, which is fantastic for close-ups and portrait captures, while a narrow aperture (high f-number) keeps the focus sharp from front to back. As you’re setting your exposure, always preview the light meter, which is visible inside the viewfinder. This will give you a clear indication as to whether your settings will under-, over- or correctly expose the scene. Based on this, you can adjust your exposure settings until you’re ready to shoot. Ideally, the marker should appear below O. If it’s too far to
the right, your shot will appear underexposed; if the marker is too far to the left it will be overexposed. After you’ve taken your shot, preview it on the back LCD screen. Check the histogram, which will let you know how much detail you’ve managed to capture in the shadow and highlight areas. A histogram of a well-exposed photo should show a mountainous range in the middle; and it shouldn’t spike up at either end. Once you’ve practiced a few times with this mode and gotten a good grasp on how to achieve a balanced exposure, you can begin exploring all of the other creative photographic possibilities. Using a tripod, for example, you can extend the shutter speed when photographing a seascape and water will appear as mist. You can also discover the potential in wide apertures by embracing the shallow depth of field effect when photographing portraits. Don’t be afraid to experiment.
“As you’re setting your exposure, always preview the light meter, which is visible inside the viewfinder”
8
A wide aperture will cause the areas surrounding your focus point to blur out
ABOVE Use a narrow aperture to keep it sharp from front to back
The Thecanon Nikon Camera Book 47
Advanced techniques close to model When using a softbox to diffuse the light, the light will become even softer the closer you position it to the model
Position a single light Perfect the placement of your flash for the best results
L
further from model The further away the softbox is to your subject the harder the light becomes, because the light source becomes smaller in relation to the model
82 The canon Camera Book
earning how the positioning of your light will affect the final look of your portrait is extremely important. As mentioned previously, the distance between where the light is placed in relation to the subject will affect the quality of light as well as the size of the light source, but the height and angle will also determine how the shadows fall and shape the model’s face. It is important that you pose your model to match your chosen lighting setup, then move the light around instead of getting the model to move. Having the light positioned directly in front of the model can sometimes make your shot a little flat, as it will fill in all of the shadows – and the shadows are needed to add depth and interest to the image. Simply moving the light around to the side can help you create a far more dramatic image. Ask your model to stand still in just one position and move your light around them so that you can see how its position will affect the shadows on their face, neck and shoulders. The Rembrandt style of lighting is a good example of the interplay between shadow and light, and is characterised by a distinctive upside-down triangle of light on the shadow side of the subject’s face. The light is positioned at around 45 degrees to the model. Rembrandt lighting creates a low-key, high-contrast and atmospheric look. The strong use of shadows has a very flattering, slimming effect on the subject’s face – because the shadows are so aggressive it doesn’t always suit female models, however, we found that because our model had very defined cheekbones it actually worked well in our case. For an even more dramatic look, move the light further around to 90 degrees for a split-lighting effect where one side of the subject’s face will fall entirely in shadow. Loop lighting is one of the most popular styles as it flatters most subjects. It is created by positioning the light just above eye level around 30 degrees from the camera and is characterised by a small shadow of the subject’s nose on their face. If light is positioned too high though you’ll lose the catchlight in the subject’s eyes, which can be unattractive. A light positioned too high or even too low will also create rather unflattering shadows, so it is important to always pay attention to where they fall.
Advanced techniques 1. In front
2. Rembrandt
The light has been positioned in front of the model and has illuminated and lifted a lot of the shadows on her face
The light has been moved around by 45 degrees to create a dramatic Rembrandt lighting effect. This angle helps to accentuate the model’s cheekbones and has a slimming effect on the face, and creates the Rembrandt-style triangle on the shadow side of the face
3. split This is an even more dramatic look where the light has been placed at 90 degrees to the subject and only illuminates one side of the face
the studio setup
Right
Softbox key light with softbox
background
model
camera
Position the key light just above the head height
position 3
position 2 position 1
The canon Camera Book 83
Advanced techniques Surroundings
Location carefully chosen so the subject would be backlit by the setting sun
Autofocus
Servo AF was used so the lens continually adjusted focus to keep the cart and driver sharply focused
Exposure
Test shots were taken to make sure the main subject didn’t record in silhouette due to the brightness of the sun
Head-on
A sequence of shots was taken as the cart travelled towards the camera and the best frames were chosen for editing
A moving subject A fast shutter speed (1/1,000sec) was chosen to make sure the moving cart was captured sharp
104 The canon Camera Book
Advanced techniques
Complete the picture
H
Use a telephoto lens
Telephoto lenses compress perspective, so the elements in a scene appear closer together. This effect can be used to add impact to an image because everything in the shot seems to be crowded together. Distant features also loom large in the background and dwarf smaller features closer to the camera.
8
ow do we produce black and white images with impact when faced with everyday subjects? It could be argued that a lack of colour makes it more difficult to achieve. After all, colour has great symbolic and emotive value. However, as wonderful as colour photography is, it can also be too familiar. It shows us what things look like and leaves us feeling reassured and comfortable. But in art, reality isn’t always the best solution because it doesn’t encourage us to look beyond familiarity and appreciate an image for any reason other than what it depicts. As soon as you remove colour from an image, everything changes because it no longer represents reality. It’s an interpretation of the world, rather than a copy. Black and white images are more dramatic, more evocative and more atmospheric. Our emotional response to a colour image is often rendered superficial by familiarity, but comes from a much deeper place when we take that colour away. Light, shade, texture and shape take centre stage and what’s actually in the scene becomes almost irrelevant. Good black and white images inspire the viewer to complete the picture in their mind’s eye. The late French photographer Lucien Clergue photographed a diverse range of subjects, from bullfights in his hometown of Arles to circus children. However, he’s probably best known for his depiction of the female nude. In the ‘Nus Zebres’ series he photographed models in New York; the use of shadow patterns and contrast transformed his images into poetic abstracts where light and shade take centre stage.
Travel inspiration
There’s nothing better than travel to open your mind and improve your skills as a photographer. Exploring different countries and cultures will expose you to amazing photo opportunities
Take an abstract view Abstract images gain their appeal not from the fact that you can identify the object recorded, but from the shapes, patterns, tones and textures that make up that object. This means that literally anything can be used as the basis of an abstract image. Look for criss-crossing lines, overlapping shapes and eye-catching angles. Forget about what the subject is and focus on how the elements in your camera’s viewfinder can be organised in an interesting way. Experiment, and don’t be afraid to let important elements break out of the frame, or reduce the composition to a bare minimum.
Before
After
The canon Camera Book 105
Edit your Canon images
Finding a style
G
etting your photography work recognised is vitally important. Your images need to stand out from the overwhelming amount of photographers who are now displaying their work on the web and on social networking sites. Developing a unique and easily recognisable style will ensure that you get the coverage you truly deserve, and mastering Photoshop will ensure that this is the case. On this page we’ll be covering a selection of current styles that are hugely popular both creatively and commercially. Building on your Photoshop skills and then transferring what you’ve learnt into your work will allow you to develop a style that you can easily apply across your entire portfolio. The style you choose to work with will need to suit the theme of your images, so don’t be afraid to experiment with some different effects but also keep in mind what message you’re trying to get across to the viewer.
The effects applied to your photos can be as extreme or as wacky as you choose, but your images don’t need to look overly Photoshopped to get great final results. Even the smallest subtle tweaks like the humble high-key lighting effect can really help to make your portfolio stand out against the rest of the competition. The key to finding a style is purely through experimentation. Don’t be too constrained, make sure you remember to have fun and really explore what Photoshop has to offer. Combining Adjustment Layers and Layer Blend modes can produce stunning end results without hours spent staring at your computer screen. Get to grips with the few essential Photoshop functions explored here and you will realise how many amazing effects can be created quickly and easily – regardless of your image-editing skill level.
Creative cross-processing Cross processing is a simple technique to master, involving increasing the image contrast and dramatically altering the colour balance. To do this we will use a Curves Adjustment Layer (Window>Adjustment>Curves). Click onto the RGB drop-down menu and choose Red. Click onto the line adding two anchor points.
Now move these to create an S shape. Repeat this for the Green channel then swap to the Blue channel. Don’t add any anchor points; just move the top-end downwards. The bottom left anchor must point up to enhance the blues in the shadows. Play around with these settings. Once happy, set this layer’s blend mode to Color.
curves adjustment
A simple curves adjustment for the red, green and blue channels work excellently to achieve the cross-processing effect
red, green and blue
For the red and green colour channels, move the curve into an S shape. For the blue channel, move the top end of the line downwards, as shown here
bicycle before
One photo, four distinctly different styles. Experiment with them all and see what suits your style of working best. Who knows, you may discover a Photoshop trick that transforms your entire portfolio!
Boost highlights and add blur for a high-key effect Curves
Play with highlights 1 Creating high-key lighting
effects is all about increasing the highlights in your photos and enhancing the foreground. Duplicate the Background layer, then hide the top layer. Click back onto the original background layer and add a subtle Gaussian Blur effect. Make both layers visible once more. Now add a Mask to the top layer. With a low-opacity, soft-edged brush, paint away the area around the foreground object showing the blurred underneath layer, adding a sense of depth. Now add a Curves Adjustment Layer (set to Lighter) in the top drop-down menu. If you want to strengthen the effect, continue to push the line upwards.
156 The canon Camera Book
Edit your Canon images Your client and you
Make sure the communication between you and your client is clear and consistent. If they want you to represent their product, make sure you know this product and its use inside out so you can represent it accurately. Also keep in mind how your client might want to use or share your image.
Standout style Web: www.bigbouquet.co.uk Bio: Emma Davenport works alongside her husband Ian, shooting weddings and portrait shoots on location. They use pro camera bodies and a wealth of prime lenses. Big Bouquet is in its ninth year of business. How important is Photoshop to you in your professional career and how much do you use it? Because of the volume of shots I have to process on a weekly basis, and the quick turnaround time I need for my clients, I now do a lot of my basic image tweaking in Lightroom. However, when I turn on Lightroom for work, Photoshop is always powered up too. It’s become second nature! For those feature shots, or images that need a little bit more editing work, Photoshop gives me a far more polished finish.
Add texture and Layer blends for more depth Mix up your textures Creating striking images with 2 depth is very simple. To begin, duplicate your Background
Layer and go to the Layer Blend modes at the top of the Layers palette. Experiment with the options – Multiply and Vivid Light produce exceptional results, but for this image we have chosen to use Color Burn. Double-click on the top layer once the Blend Mode has been applied and check the Texture option from the Layer Styles dialog box. We used a Stucco texture. Then on top of the Layers we added a Curves Adjustment Layer, bringing back some highlights and enriching
Blend modes
Create clean and sleek advertising effects Pen tool
Cut and 3 polish
For this effect, first isolate the object and then place it onto a white backdrop with a natural shadow. Sharpen and then brighten with a Curves Adjustment Layer. If you have a simple object to cut out, try the Quick Selection and Refine Edge tools. If, however, your object is more complex, then use the Pen tool. Trace your object and save the Path. Make it an active selection and lift it from the Background layer. Make the Path an active selection once more, add a transparent layer underneath and fill the selection with black. Flip and position the layer and blur it. Finally use the Gradient tool on a Mask to soften.
What tools and techniques do you rely upon the most? I’m a big fan of Actions - both those I’ve created myself and have bought off the shelf. I’ve got my own subtle ‘S Curve’ treatments saved, which I use to give my images a boost. How did you develop your recognisable style, or was it a natural progression? The way I process my shots has changed a lot over the years and I owe this to some of the great, commercial Actions available. The Photoshop Actions I regularly use come from Totally Rad (gettotallyrad.com), Kubota Image Tools (kubotaimagetools.com) but my absolute favourite are the limited-edition Vintage Film sets from Red Leaf Boutique (redleafboutique.ca). I always use most of these Actions as primers though. The beauty of most of them is that they’re layered so you can manually tweak them. It’s important to know you can’t get good results unless your straight-out-ofcamera image is interesting and technically competent. Did any other artists or Photographers inspire you to stylise your work? There’s such a friendly network of photographers out there for those looking to perfect their image editing. For example, Totally Rad has its own Recipe site where other photographers share their own work and give guidance on how they achieved their ‘look’ (gettotallyrad.com/recipes/).
“Photoshop is always powered up. It’s become second nature!” The canon Camera Book 157
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