Trendmap Report

Trendmap Individual Report

Gabrielle Howarth | Student Number: N0735657 Word Count: 2515

Contents Page

Introduction 4 Methodology 5 Trend Forecasting 7 Origin of Trends 8

I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project.

Date: 2.06.18 Signed...........................................

Life cycle of a trend 9 Impacts of Trends 11 Radical Transparency 12 History of the Trend 14 Trend Drivers 16 Shop Safari 20 Mood Board 21 Styling Shoot 22 Editorial spread for Cos 24 Conclusion 27 References 28 Image References 28 Bibliography 33

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Appendix 34

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Introduction

Methodology

This report will give an in-depth context, and showcase the importance of trends and their impacts. The necessity of trend forecasting, what key drivers are behind it and its place in fashion marketing will also be explored and analysed. Studying in particular, one key trend of Spring Summer 2018, ‘Radical Transparency’. A styled shoot will also be included before being incorporated into an editorial in the style of Cos magazine.

This report was produced using a variety of secondary resources such as books and documents found in the NTU library and on BOB. Articles in print magazines and online content from Vogue, Glamour and Cosmopolitan have been analysed to spot emerging trends for Spring/Summer 2018. Primary research was also carried out on the streets of Nottingham to see first hand how the trend of radical transparency has been adopted. Shop safaris were carried out in Nottingham and Manchester, this immersed myself into the high street stores in my local towns. Interviews were gathered to explore radical transparency within Nottingham retail stores.

The styling shoot involved choosing a location, props and models for the shoot, that was best able to showcase the trend. These images were then worked into the fashion editorial. Social, cultural, economic and media influences in the market will also be explored and how they alter trends. This report will also provide an overall insight into the creation and future of trends and conclude the overall measure of success of that of my examined trend.

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We were able to explore opinions from employees in shops such as Zara and Topshop regarding new trends within the city.

The process of selecting models included talking to students in the student union and finding students to fit the style we wanted to portray. Finally, observing students and then general public in the streets gave us evidence and a general idea of fashion influences in the general public.

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Trend Forecasting

“Trends are Movements that are translated through the art of dressing”

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Fashion is continuously in motion and evolving. This market is most commonly what we associate with when we think of the term trend, however, a trend can be emotional, intellectual and even spiritual and is not a term exclusively associated with fashion. At its most basic, “a trend can be defined as the direction in which something tends to move and which has a consequential impact on the culture, society or business sector through which it moves” (Raymond,2010).

Retailers must accurately ‘trend forecast’, this enables them to predict and measure what their customers are looking for in current and new seasons. However, the risk of getting a trend wrong can be detrimental to the success of a business and their brand. Other than the massive expense of incorrectly predicting a trend, the stock created will ultimately become dead stock thus reducing company profit. Forecasting a trend is defined by the ability to understand the unpredictability of growth or decline in certain patterns. “Fashion forecasting is a creative, continual process used to predict the trends of upcoming seasons.

It involves a systematic procedure, including information gathering, market and consumer research, and analysis.”

(Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011).

“Trend forecasting now underpins all aspects of society where it is important to understand the short, medium and long term impact of new and emerging changes taking place in the culture around us.” (Raymond, 2010) “Trend forecasting is a creative, continual process used to predict the trends of upcoming seasons” (Posner, 2011). They supply consumer insight, information on emerging trends, reports on catwalks and fabric forecasting. It is important for brands to be aware of changing fashion trends, “the trick with fashion is to try and predict the future” (Posner, 2011). Retailers and manufacturers use forecasting companies to help them with important product decisions.

Due to this trend forecasters are constantly observing changes in consumer behaviour and a variety of cultural, economic and environmental factors.

“A trend is referred to as a general direction or movement.”

“At it’s heart, trend forecasting is all about knowing what the few are doing, understanding it and translating it before the many are doing it.”

Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011

Shaw and Koumbis, 2014 7

Where do trends originate?

Cultural, social and economic influences often cause changes in societies perception of fashion. Trends are often cyclical, past style come back into fashion often due to celebrities trying an outdated look. Kim, Fiore and Kim, (2011) stated that styles can “originate in a particular social group, trickling up from the streets or trickling down from top designers, or move across all social groups simultaneously.”

The trickle theories are directional theories used to explain fashion change. The trickle theory discusses trickle up, down and across and how trends are influenced from different sectors. Historic events such as World War II and 9/11, despite much thought have had an impact on fashion trends. The war gave women clothes they had to wear when they were working, in world war 1, women could apply for jobs and first gained economic independence. Womenswear changed drastically, as clothing had to be cheap enough, but practical for the jobs and lifestyle. It is clear from various examples how external influences impact fashion trends, furthermore validated that it’s not just the fashion world which influences styles and trends.

The life cycle of a trend

Trends have often correlated to to world events, but also due to social influences. In the early 1900’s helped shape conscious consumption, women roles changed with the help of the suffragette movement. People were purchasing clothes with more thought behind why they needed the items. Economic impacts have also influenced the industry. Nowadays, cheap alternatives of high street brands have flooded the market.

Consumers often favour cheaper, ‘faster’ fashion, where purchases can be made without breaking the bank. Inexpensive brands such as Primark and misguided have taken a large foothold in the market.

Popularity of trends can be categorised by three labels. A fad has often been described as a short lived trend which comes and goes over night, they are difficult to predict how successful and long they’ll be around. Classics and mega trends are often reoccurring and last the longest. They typically influence the market for a longer period of time and will remain established with consumers.

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What are the global impacts of Trends?

Trends in general have a short product life cycle due to fast changes in tastes and fashion and seasonality. Firstly it starts with the trend creators and trendsetters, the introductory stage where the trend is unheard of as of yet. If the trend terminates here and is unsuccessful it is known as a fad. The early mainstream section consists of public awareness of the trend such as being shown on catwalks and present in magazines, the mainstream section where it becomes readily available in high street stores and from there downwards where the trend is going into decline and everybody is aware of the trend.

The best phase for retailers is the ‘acceptance phase’ where it becomes a popular trend and consumers demand products of this trend, creating higher profits for the retailers.

Fashion is arguably one of the biggest factors that can affect society.

In the past few years, there has been a higher demand for new trends than ever before, due to this, it has led to a negative impact on the environment.

“The turnover of fashion us just so quick and so throwaway, and I think that is a big part of the problem. There is no longevity.”

(Alexander McQueen)

“The fashion cycle allows retailers to better predict sales and profitability of specific styles” Kim, Fiore and Kim, 2011

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“Trends tend to be evolutionary rather than revolutionary” Sproles and Burns, 1994

Recently the main focus of the fashion industry has been profitability.

Production is no longer a main objective. Many fast fashion brands have created a following of consumers who practice impulsive shopping who choose quantity over quality without knowing anything about the origin of the clothes they buy. Many companies who utilise fast fashion, mainly high street stores, exploit workers, giving them very little pay to increase the company’s profit margins in developing countries such as India with very poor working conditions and no safety measures. The workers have no say and they are forced to accept these poor conditions.

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Radical Transparency

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History of the Trend Naked Dress Timeline

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Trend Drivers Social Influences | Celebrities One key social influence on trends is celebrities. It seems to be that celebrities are always at the forefront of major trends and help drive the trend. They are a big inspiration for what people wear, making them a massive social influence. Many celebrities have adopted the sheer look such as Cara Delevinge, Kim Kardashian, Beyonce and many more who are very influential celebrities in people’s lives. Celebrity and trends are integrated within our lives and our culture. They serve as a funnel of awareness of a trend to the end consumer.

Social Media Rihanna’s Swarovski covered sheer dress can be seen as the ‘most powerful feminist statement’. Maslow’s theory of hierarchy can be intertwined with this sheer trend as it shows the basic needs of humans. This links fashion and the sheer trend through psychological factors, as confidence and selfesteem are desired. By Rihanna wearing the ‘sheer look’, this trend gives the ability of women to push the boundaries, inspiring confidence in other women to do the same.

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Social media has had a profound effect on today’s society and the radical transparency trend. The trend describes and explains how people shop and what they choose to wear. In a recent survey by (Anon, 2015) it was found that circa 29% of people are influenced by social media when it comes to purchasing clothes and how to wear them. The power of social media is prevalent, cat walks, magazines and blogs have all been developed and made more accessible via social media.

Social media apps like Instagram and twitter enable celebrities to interact with their fans, showing them what they’re wearing.

Instagram even enables celebrities to tag what clothes they’re wearing in photos. Fans and the public can keep up with trends by following brand accounts which continuously update their accounts with new clothing and styles.

The new age of style bloggers are also influencing the industry.

Anon (2015) says that respondents to a survey states that 11% of bloggers are seen as more inspirational than fashion designers, further proving how bloggers are affecting the industry. Social media has given the opportunity to the average person to influence trends. Research suggests that friends can be often influence young people than celebrities. A mintel survey strengthens the research by showing that “33% of 15-24 year olds prefer to get fashion inspiration from people similar to their own age” (Goody, 2016). Outfits seen on social media platforms play a vital role in purchasing decisions.

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Cultural Influences There has been a cultural shift in the ‘Radical Transparency trend due to it being legal for women to go topless. “There is a stigma surrounding the nipple and the female chest…but [women] are part of the problem: We’re asking for permission; stop asking and just own it” (Lino Esco, director of the 2014 film Free the Nipple’. The Free the Nipple campaign came alive due to this film being produced, a global feminist movement.

“The idea that female breasts are solely sexual objects while male breasts are not is somehow shameful and has become ingrained in society” (Elle Canada 2017).

Fashion designers due to this new trend have now normalised the nipple being on show and making it more acceptable.

“The idea that female breasts are solely sexual objects while male breasts are not is somehow shameful and has become ingrained in society” Elle Canada 2017

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Shop Safari

Mood Board Inspiration

As part of primary research a shop safari was carried out in Nottingham high street stores. It was clear sheer clothing is a popular trend, when popular high street shops were visited and many sheer items were available to buy.

Topshop, H&M and Urban Outfitters were the main high street stores stocking clothing to do with the trend of ‘radical transparency’.

Inspiration from Spring Summer 18 catwalks has been taken by these high street retailers. It is almost impossible to go in to a high street store without seeing a piece of sheer clothing.

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Styling Shoot The intended uses of the images in which I have utilized are to accompany a piece of fashion editorial for Cos magazine.

From studying a number of Cos magazines, I came to the conclusion my editorial must be modern and minimalistic.

Cos use very similar layouts and photography, keeping it very minimal. A general theme is often kept throughout the whole magazine.

The location, Bonnington atrium at Nottingham Trent University, was chosen after gaining inspiration from simplistic aspects. The juxtaposition of this location enabled raw features and a blank canvas, which allowed emphasis to solely be on models and garments marketed. The natural lighting and the clean/subdude ambiance of the atrium were great. The transparent chairs were used to enhance the idea of radical transparency.

The female models were chosen due to their unique and diverse style. Bold facial features were enhanced through natural, glowy makeup. The images taken were very minimalistic and very much focused on the model and the outďŹ t rather than the background as the whole idea of the shoot was to make the trend more high end and sophisticated and to try and steer away from the trend just being for millennials.

They would be targeted at a female consumer aged 18-34 who are interested in fashion trends, hence the feature in Cos magazine. Readers of Cos magazine are very fashion focused and keep up to date with trends. A typical reader would be interested in the radical transparency trend as it is relevant and seen on both the high street and catwalk.

“Simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication.�

Inspired by the words of Leonardo De Vinci 22

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Conclusion It’s clear throughout research that radical transparency has become more prevalent since the evolvement of individualism and freedom of expression. Tracking trends and predicting the movement and changes of trends is a big part in what keeps brands and retailers successful.

It’s clear there are many factors that keep influencing trends.

Social media and economics have a large impact on how society views and wears fashion. Fast fashion trends have enabled society to look good and keep up-to date with new trends while not breaking the bank. However, a result of fast fashion and cheaper clothing has meant slave labour and poor working conditions has become more prevalent in poorer countries. An example of a fashion trend is faux fur, this became popular from the anti fur campaigns; society used their freedom of expression to voice their opinions.

Through research and understanding of the life cycle of a trend, we can conclude that there is an introduction, adoption peak and a decline. However, time frames differ for certain styles. As discussed in the report, some styles are timeless while others are only around for a short period of time. From primary research we were able to gain a better understanding of radical transparency and how popular it is amongst style concerned people.

Through primary and secondary research it would be fair to suggest that the trend has been a success. Radical transparency is a regular style seen from TV, catwalks, magazines and in the general public. Social media and celebrities have enabled the trend to stay relevant amongst the new cohort of style conscious consumers.

Perhaps in the future, materials developed with technological advancements will overtake radical transparency. It may be cheaper and more environmentally friendly to develop.

Sustainability may be a reason why radical transparency does not have longevity in the market, as is expected. Future trends may have a more ethical development process, pushing radical transparency out the market. However, from research, it is fair to suggest the style is here for the long haul and you can expect it to remain a staple style amongst fashion and style conscious consumers.

“Trends are patterns or anomalies that can persuade us to adopt new ways of doing things or expressing ourselves” Raymond, 2010

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Howarth, G (2018) Model posing on stairs in Bonnington Gallery in Transparent Jacket [image]. Private Collection

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Howarth, G (2018) Both models posing together [image]. Private Collection

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