UO SS19
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CONTENTS
TREND SYNOPSIS - P10
MOOD - P36
SILHOUETTES AND RANGE- P66 4
CONSUMER PROFILE - P16
BRAND PROFILE - P24
COLOUR VISION - 42
YARNS AND FIBRES - P50
MARKETING - P102
REFERENCES - P114 5
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Introduction UO SS19
This trend package has been strategically designed for the buying, design and visual merchandising team at Urban Outfitters. The package includes a range plan for the main looks of SS19 as well as colourways, fabrics, silhouettes and a visual merchandising plan. Each factor has been researched and influenced by the current lifestyle trend - the feminist youth, derived from the fourth wave of feminism. The lifestyle trend has been adapted to the Urban Outfitters brand identity and target consumer to create a trend forecast package for SS19. 9
“Young feminists are active and key constituencies of women’s movements around the world in impacting social change for the realization of women’s rights and justice.” AWID 2018 10
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The Fourth Wave of Feminism Women - “Power Users of Social Networking” Feminism is not a new concept, however is a re occurring movement among society. From the first wave of feminism, suffragettes have been fighting for equality for women. In more recent years, a new wave of feminism - the fourth wave has occurred. This wave is from 2008 onwards, using social media to call out and challenge patriarchal norms, sexism and misogyny (Munro, 2018). Women using social media actively have been referred to as the ‘power users of social networking’ using digital spaces for activism (Munro, 2018). Blogs such as ‘The F Word’ and ‘The women’s room’ have became increasingly popular with young women as they campaign against every day sexism (Munro, 2018).
These campaigns have been a success resulting in page 3 being band (Munro, 2018). Feel good campaigns and body positive campaigns are also active on social media making fashion brands re think on their model and clothing size range, as well as marketing. Other feminist campaigns for issues on rape and sexual assault are also active such as the ‘don’t tell her what to wear, tell him not to rape’ quote which was trending on social media, which has motivated girls to wear more revealing clothing and posting on social media to make a stand.
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The Fourth Wave of Feminism Modern day Issues Other issues have also spurred on a fourth wave of feminism such as the gender pay gap quite clearly still apparent when the BBC were caught out paying women less than the men, even when doing the same job. This led to “women at the BBC writing an open letter to their boss telling them to get their act together” which caused controversy. (Abraham, 2017). President Donald Trump and his sexist comments has also caused millions of women to march to demand equal rights and reproductive rights as he threatened to jail women who had an abortion- the famous quote seen at many of these rallies was “grabbing em by the pussy” a quote from Donald Trump himself (Abraham, 2017).
Hollywood has also had their own issues with cases like Harvey Weinstein emerging and his sexist behaviour and attitude towards women, which led to all the women and men wearing black at the Golden Globes 2018 in protest of sexual harassment and fighting sexual conduct in Hollywood and society (Gonzales, 2018). These issues over time have led to marches, campaigns and new kinds of activism on social media showing the changes in attitudes of young women. The fashion industry has responded to these changes of attitudes as a trend in feminism slogan T shirts emerged, however their is a new market for feminism inspired clothing represented through silhouettes, colours, fabrics and sexual freedom.
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The Feminist Youth Consumer Profile
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The Feminist Youth Target Consumer The target consumers are young women aged 16 - 25 years old. They have an active interest in feminism. Not only an interest but infact running societies and join organisations such as FRIDA and AWID which has over 5000 members from 164 countries. These organisations fight legislation and gender equality worldwide for gender justice (Awid, 2018). However, as well as joining organisations and societies, social media impacts a large part in the new wave of feminism. Young girls set up feminist blogs or follow them like the F word blog or twitter and Instagram pages to spread feminist messages. A particular focus of this wave of feminism is sexual freedom. Radical feminists post images in revealing clothing celebrating that girls should be allowed to be body positive and free to show their body how they want - linking to the ‘free the nip’ campaign. The target consumer is ambitious, with a successful career in mind. 18
These girls are completing a degree or A levels aiming to get into a successful university as they aim to lead a financially stable lifestyle - a shift in societies gender norms in recent years as a traditional masculine mindset. Marriage isn’t on these girls mind at the moment as a young girl focusing on education and a career. These girls lead a busy lifestyle balancing a part time job, Uni work, internships, and a social life. As ambitious individuals they are always thinking ahead, however don’t take life too seriously and still like to go out having fun with their friends even if its a night out or shopping They have a keen interest in fashion with an independent ‘student’ style, however likes to follow the most recent trends. As a student they tend to vintage shop and look on the high street however get fashion inspiration from magazines such as Vogue from high fashion brands. As well as fashion they have a keen interest in travelling ,exploring different cultures and experiences.
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The Feminist Youth Consumer Profile
From the survey carried out a consumer profile was created of the typical Urban Outfitters , feminist youth, student consumer for SS19. See Appendix for interview.
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Name: Arielle Davidson Age: 19 Gender: Female Status: Miss Career Status: Student with a part time job Studying: Sociology and Politics Lives: Manchester Feminist? Yes Would she wear a feminist fashion collection? Absolutely
Dislikes: In-equalities in society and over priced food and garments! Ambitions: To see the world and to have a career she loves Hobbies: Gym, Shopping, Socialising, Festivals, Photography, Cooking, in feminist society and Travelling Personality: Creative, Outgoing, Easy going, ambitious - an introvert. Shopping habits: Every 3 months (would shop more if could afford)
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The Feminist Youth Arielle Davidson
Arielle, 19, is a full time Sociology and Politics student at the University of Manchester in her second year. She is originally from London and wanted to experience a northern city and university lifestyle. For extra money she works part time at the Manchester union bar on a Thursday and Friday. However, loves attending the bar herself with her friends when she isn’t working. Arielle comes from a middle class background in North London as her parents are a dentist and doctor. Although her parents would have liked her to take a similar career route as them her passion always lied with sociology and politics, which lead her to study them at degree level. This is where Arielle’s passion for Feminism also comes in as studying it has pushed her to be a feminist activist. Like most young women feminism is an issue at the moment which a lot of young girls are passionate about. Studying the issue however, pushed Arielle to join the feminist society at Manchester University. 22
Interestingly, Arielle doesn’t see herself working in this industry. Outside of her degree she has always been interested in fashion and would like a career in being a fashion buyer in London. However , after her degree plans to travel the world. Arielle spends her spare time on social media following fashion, her friends and feminist accounts, keeping on trend. She also tries to return home to London every couple of weeks to catch up with friends and family. When she isn’t studying she is also socialising at University with her house mates and course friends enjoying Manchester’s night life. She enjoys this more as it is a much cheaper and easier access for a night out compared to the London night life she is used to. She is also a keen photographer in her own time. Currently, Arielle is looking for a buying intern-ship in London for over summer to gain experience in the industry.
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Urban Outfitters Brand Profile
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Urban Outfitters Brand History
1970 Dick Hayne 23, and Scott Belair decided to open their own store called Free People (UO History, 2018). Their mission was to sell second hand clothing and furniture to college students (UO History, 2018). The Urban Outfitters label was created by Meg Hayne which was a wholsale exclusive line to the label (UO History, 2018). This took off straight away - the line took on personalities; bulldog, Ecote, Cooporative, Anthropologie and Free People (UO History, 2018).
By 1993 URBN goes public, the company now trades under the Nasdaq exchange under the ticket URBN. Urban Outfitters was the first brand of URBN to expand in Europe, starting in London. Their online store opned in 2000 as E- Commerce was becoming a new way of shopping. Since then the store has took off, being re branded once and profits have boomed since.
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Urban Outfitters A Creative, lifestyle brand Urban Outfitters is a creative lifestyle brand aiming to inspire customers through not only their products but creativity and cultural understanding (URBN, 2018). They have now over 200 stores in the USA, Canada and Europe. Each store sells a mix of womenswear, menswear, accessories and home products (URBN, 2018). As well as their own label they also sell a mixture of brands which their target audience would also buy such as Tommy Hilfiger, Kappa and Calvin Klein. Well known brands suited to their student market and styles well with their own brand. Urban Outfitters is a brand for young people - especially popular with the creative students. Their creativity is not only represented through their clothing but also their merchandising. No two store windows will have the same display in the URBN group - each one is thought out creatively and individually to that store (UO Creative, 2018). Urban Outfitters believe they have created a space for “like minded creative individuals” where they can share customer’s values and interests through not only their store and products but social media, events, community involvement and opportunities within the brand (URBN, 2018).
The men’s collection is a mixture of lifestyle and culture focused, featuring collaborations and limited editions for their fashion forward male consumer (URBN, 2018). To make sure the UO customer can have on trend products for not only their customers wardrobe but their home - making the brand a lifestyle brand. They offer “bedding, home textiles, decor, furniture, music, makeup and gifts” (URBN, 2018). Music has always been very important to the brand, therefore they sell a hand picked selection of music which their consumers would listen to in vinyl, cassettes and electronics not such as Savage Hills Ballroom collection (URBN, 2018). “Our consumers are experimental, they mix own brand items and vintage from the re made section- they want unique pieces” (Walker, 2012)
By creating a wide product range they are a hooking their consumer in more than on sector from fashion to furniture, making Urban Outfitters a lifestyle brand. This is so they can live a stylish lifestyle with on trend products as they target the creative student consumer. This is reinforced through their social media channels portraying their consumers lifestyle Urban Outfitters offer not only their and how to use their products to creown products but other brands for ate the image they are after. shoes, accessories this is the urban outfitter customer can create their own sense of style (URBN, 2018). 28
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“Our consumers are experimental, they mix our own brand items and vintage from the re made section - they want unique pieces� - Becki Clark Womenswear Buyer Manager (Petro, 2015) 32
Urban Outfitters A Creative Consumer As an already successful lifestyle brand targeting the creative hipster market, Urban Outfitters already know their brand image and identity, leading them to impressive sales numbers. Since the 2014 rebrand , Urban Outfitters have boosted sales by creating a more mature look to their brand rather than ‘juvenile’, targeting a customer which can’t afford their price range. A downfall to Urban Outfitters pre re branding was their products weren’t priced to fit the youth market they appealed to (Petro, 2015). Although Urban Outfitters are high priced still compared to other high street brands it is to keep on par with the in house brand they sell like Tommy Hilfiger (Hendriksz, 2016). To keep in line with their competition’s price points on the high street for example Zara or Topshop, they could offer a higher student discount to their student consumer as an extra motivation to purchase from the brand. As well as this, to keep in line with the consumer’s ethics, wants and needs, urban could become more
diverse by adding a petite and plus size range, this is a standard consumers expect to be met, done by other high street brands. Again, to keep the brand unique and creative, linking with their creative consumer ethics as well as their brand ethics URBN try to remain a sustainable, ethical brand. The URBN renewal collection and vintage collection is a way of appealing to the eco conscious consumer as well as their classic UO collection. The urban renewal collection links with the style of the URBN consumer adding vintage hipster designs, some items are handpicked treasures from flea markets world wide, giving exclusive items to urban’s target market (UO Blog, 2016). Other’s are vintage Levi and Tommy Hilfiger classics that consumers eagerly wait for. All brands that Urban Outfitters sell from UO Collection to in house brands all have a similar brand image so they work together well in terms of styling.
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Mood SS19
Energising
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Calming 37
Soothing
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Connecting
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Mood SS19
The mood for SS19 is a soothing, calming feel with bold primary colours for a motivating and energising mood. Bold red and pink tones are refreshing combined with creating a powerful statement. Lupin Liilac is the dominant pastel tone this season creating a traditional feminine retro hue as well as sweetness to the SS19 colour palette (Boddy, 2018). This shade reflects the mood of society with the fifth wave of feminism, a tone consumers will be eager to purchase. Earthy tones also reflect the mood of the time linking to sustainability issues and creating environmental awareness reminding us of green issues, as well as creating a de- stressing feel (Textile View, 2018, P129). Similarly, with the sky blue tones reminding us of our surroundings and the sea for a soothing mood (Boddy, 2018). These shades linking to the consumers sub conscious thinking when purchasing items linking to modern day issues.
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Colour Vision SS19
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Colour Vision Core Colours:
The core colours are an essential for spring summer 2019. These neutral tones balance well with the accented colour palette, mellowing the vibrant shades (Boddy, 2018). These four core colours are the key colours to base the SS19 collection around (Boddy, 2018). Black, white, chocolate brown and navy are the base for the collection (Boddy, 2018).
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Colour Vision Accented Colours:
Accented colours bring a summer energy, adding colour to the neutral core tones. Yellow is a key colour working well against denim blues (Boddy, 2018). Blue shades are also key for SS19 signalling summer skies. Lilac plays a key role for SS19 with the colour growing as well as pink shades to create a feminine feel, perfect for casual and formalwear garments (Boddy, 2018). Warm tones however are a key factor this season with orange, light brown shades and yellow tones creating a rustic feel (Boddy, 2018). Deep burgandy and reds compliment the rustic brown tones well adding a more vibrant energy. Teal green and dark blues work well with core colour shades in a subtle accent. Teal block patterns are an affective way to use the shade for formalwear (Boddy, 2018).
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Yarns & Fabrics SS19
“The concept of design is not new for textile apparel products. Traditionally designers have heavily relied on their intuition and experience. However, today’s consumer demands products with improved functionalities and quality - especially with scientific progress in new fibres and technology� (Chattopadhyay, 2008). Hence the importance of choosing the right fibres and fabric for the need of the consumer. Especially for Urban Outfitters, a creative innovative brand with creative consumers wanting the best quality fabrics with unique texture and properties.
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Yarns & Fabrics Denim
For SS19 we see denim in a reinvented way. Light wash denim with block prints will be a favourite this season, along with the return of a raw top stitch denim trend. The two trends will appeal to a youth market and urban outfitters consumer (Linaires, 2017). Denim is a strong, hardwearing, durable fabric which can be styled and constructed in a variety of ways to create innovative unique looks and textures.
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Yarns & Fabrics Corduroy
Corduroy, a classic hardwearing fabric construction with a stiff heavy feel (Fabric, 2018). Usually associated with winter fashion, however for SS19 a cotton corduroy in a more lightweight construction creates a grunge and hipster vibe (Linaires, 2017). This fabric usually worn in trousers or jackets and dyed in bright colours are perfect for summer wear.
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Yarns & Fabrics PVC - Metallic’s
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For a futuristic 80’s look, metallic PVC fabrics are on trend for SS19 (Linaires, 2018). Typically used for trousers, bralets, and cropped tops. Layering a metallic bralet over a Tshirt is also a big trend for SS19. A popular style with the youth market to create a loud bold look.
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Yarns & Fabrics Micro Tweed
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A more formalwear fabric , styled for summer tweeds and casual tailoring. The micro tweed is a blend between fancy slubs, bouclettes, mouline and nebbed yarns in woven and knitted structures to create a bobble texture (Greany, 2018). This fabric is popular for jackets and dresses for a sober yet rough appearance and unique texture (Greany, 2018).
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Yarns & Fabrics Linen
For a modern rustic appearance a blend of linen and viscose yarns are used (Greany, 2018). The construction of the two fibres create a crumpled surface linking to the mood of SS19 with the earth colour mood (Greany, 2018). Linen is a lightweight fabric, popular for summer seasons. Can be used for trousers, usually a wide leg trousers as the lightweight of the fabric creates a soft drape. Can be also used for blouses and tops.
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Yarns & Fabrics Watermark
Linking with the mood of SS19 of a soothing earth like feel the watermark construction is perfect in shades of blue to create a sea rippling affect (Greany, 2018). To create the nature inspired affect a distorted weft construction is used (Greany, 2018). Again , metallic yarns can be added to create a shimmering appearance creating a more youthful look (Greany, 2018). This fabric would look appealing in a wide leg trouser , bralet, or cropped top. 57
Yarns & Fabrics Viscose
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As one of the most used fabrics by Urban Outfitters as well as Cotton and Polyester, the light weight fabric is perfect for a summer collection, as it can be dyed easily to bright colours. Urban is a sustainable brand so organic viscose is a great substitute for silk, as well as being low cost and feel luxurious (Claire, 2017).
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Yarns & Fabrics Sheer
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Linking with the layering trend, sheer fabrics as well as mesh are perfect to layer in bright colours for an evening or occasionwear (Maggioni, 2018). Layering in darker colours creates a more grunge and hipster style. Also, linking with the use of underwear as outerwear trend, sheer fabrics can be used to create a more daring , revealing look but in a more modest way.
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Key Silhouettes SS19
The key silhouettes for Spring Summer 2019 are a oversized, slouchy silhouette with a sense of freedom and liberation (Park and Walters, 2018). The feminist youth need a silhouette which reflects their mood and motivation behind the new wave of feminism. Sex appeal is a trend, wearing underwear as outerwear to make a statement. The oversized layered silhouette as well has a feminist stand taken from genderless dressing , with a grunge and hipster feel added to the trend (Park and Walters, 2018). Another trend inspiring silhouettes and product range of SS19 are the asymmetric style (Park and Walters, 2018).
These looks and styles are created through a select number of silhouettes: • Wide leg culotte • Paper bag waist trousers • Sheer tops • High waisted shorts • Asymmetric dress • Pleated Midi skirt • Apron shirt • Trench Dress • Deconstructed dress • Tie back jumpsuit • Rugby shirt • Ruchered Anorak • Cold Shoulder Gathered Top These silhouettes can all be styled to portray SS19 trends linking to layering, underwear as outerwear and asymmetric dressing. 66
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Silhouettes Wide Leg culotte
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Silhouettes Paper bag waist
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Silhouettes Sheer sleeve top
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Silhouettes Bralett
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Silhouettes
High waist, tailored shorts
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Silhouettes
Asymmetric short dress
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Silhouettes
Pleated midi skirt
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Silhouettes Apron shirt
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Silhouettes Trench dress
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Silhouettes
De-constructed dress
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Silhouettes
Tie back jumpsuit
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Silhouettes Rugby shirt
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Silhouettes
Ruchered Anorak
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Silhouettes
Cold Shoulder Gathered Top
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Range Plan UO SS19
URBN is a high street brand, however is aware they are slightly over priced compared to other stores such as Zara or H&M (Hendriksz, 2016). However, there price points are higher to match a similar price range to the exclusive brands they stock for example cheap Monday prices. As their target audience is students however, student discount is offered, although a higher student discount to 20% off more be more appealing as the standard discount is 10%.
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Range Plan Denim Top Stitch
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Black, Red, White, Navy Fabric: Denim, 100% Cotton with topstitch, or cordroy Fabric Care: Machine wash at 30 Selling Price: ÂŁ50
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Range Plan
Paper bag waist trouser
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Lilac, Yellow, White, Light Blue Fabric: 70% Cotton 30% Polyester Fabric Care: Machine wash at 30 Selling Price: ÂŁ35
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Range Plan Sheer Top
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Red, White Fabric: Cotton and Sheer fabric Fabric Care: Machine wash at 30, can not be tumble dried Selling Price: ÂŁ35
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Range Plan Bralett
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Lilac, White, Teal Fabric: 100% Cotton Fabric Care: Machine wash at 40 Selling Price: ÂŁ30
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Range Plan
High waisted shorts
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Brown, Navy, Orange Fabric: 100% Viscose Fabric Care: Machine wash at 30, cannot tumble dry Selling Price: ÂŁ45
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Range Plan
Asymmetric short dress
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Black, Red, Yellow Fabric: 100% Cotton and sheer mesh fabric Fabric Care: Machine wash at 30, can not tumble dry Selling Price: ÂŁ50
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Range Plan Midi pleated skirt
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Lilac, Teal, White, Yellow Fabric: 100% Viscose fabric Fabric Care: Machine wash at 30 Selling Price: ÂŁ35
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Range Plan Apron Shirt
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: White, Navy, Orange Fabric: 50% Linen, 50% Viscose Fabric Care: Machine wash at 40 Selling Price: ÂŁ35
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Range Plan Trench dress
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Black, teal, light blue Fabric: 100% Viscose Fabric Care: Machine wash at 40 Selling Price: ÂŁ49.99
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Range Plan
De-constructed dress
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Brown, White, yellow Fabric: 30% Cotton, 70% polyester Fabric Care: Machine wash at 40 Selling Price: ÂŁ40
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Range Plan Tie back Jumpsuit
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Black, Red, blue Fabric: 70% Cotton, 30% linen Fabric Care: Machine wash at 50 Selling Price: £40
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Range Plan Rugby Shirt
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Yellow, White, Teal Fabric: 100% Cotton Fabric Care: Machine wash at 40 Selling Price: ÂŁ29.99
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Range Plan Ruchered Anorak
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Lilac, Teal, Brown, yellow with metallic sheen Fabric: 40% Cotton, 30% Viscose, 30% Polyester Fabric Care: Hand Wash due to construction Selling Price: ÂŁ59.99
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Range Plan
Cold Shoulder gathered Top
Sizes: XS, S, M , L Colour: Lilac, Red, White Fabric: 100% Cotton Fabric Care: Machine wash at 30 Selling Price: ÂŁ30
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Marketing & Visual Merchandising UO SS19
URBN’s creativity is represented through their marketing and visual merchandising strategies. Their stores are “not all white boxes that all look the same� (Hendriksz, 2016) their strong creative visual merchandising team creates each store to have a unique URBN layout and window display (Hendriksz, 2016). Every store looks different. Images from their social media are places around store, the building of the store also has to have an interesting aesthetic with a story to tell, so the brand can put a twist on it - no two stores are to look the same so they attract tourists and locals (Hendriksz, 2016). Each store has a homeware section as well as garments, intimates, in house brands and novelty stationary items all aimed at generation Y/Z - the student demographic, with a playful aesthetic (Hendriksz, 2016). The SS19 collection will carry on the URBN creativity, with the brighter accented colours for SS19 at the front of the store catching consumers eyes as they walk past.
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As an already established brand the need for print media and adverts are slim, especially when targeting millennials. With the average young person spending six hours a week on social media, social media is their main form of advertising (Foster, 2017). The SS19 collection should be displayed on the Instagram page and blog just before release, in URBN style images and features. As well as the visual display in store and customer images to motivate consumers to engage in buying products and interacting with the brand on social media. As well as publishing on their own website, a look book for SS19 in Vogue online will be issued adding a luxury reputation to the brand collection, similarly to the SS18 collection.
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“The Average Millennial spends six hours a week on social media - 62% would be more loyal to a brand who engages with them online� - Foster (2017) 104
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“The Urban Outfitters stores aren’t all white boxes that look the same - no two stores are duplicated” Hendrisksz (2016)
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Conclusion UO SS19
This researched trend forecast report will benefit Urban Outfitters buying and design team for SS19 as each section of the report was intrinsically put together with the lifestyle trend ‘the feminist youth’ in mind. A micro trend which will be moving on to mass adopters for SS19, fitting in with the Urban Outfitters consumer interests, therefore maximising profit for the brand (Spiegel, 2017).
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Appendix Survey results 1. How old are you? Under 16 - 2.08% 16-20 - 85.42% 21-30-10.42% 31-40 -0 41-50- 0 50 + - 2.08% 2. What is your gender? Male - 2.08% Female - 97.2% 3. What is your career status? Student - 83.33% Employed full time - 14.58% Employed part time - 2.08% Retired - 0 Self employed - 0 un employed - 0 4. Do you have any hobbies? Sports - 0 Gym - 29.17% Blogging - 0 Travelling - 12.50% Shopping - 14.58% Socialising with friends - 31.25% Festivals - 6.25% Designing/Arts/Photography -2.08% Reading - 0 Cooking - 4.17% 5. How would you describe your personality? Creative - 12.5% Easy going - 18.75% Introvert - 14.58% Relaxed - 8.33% Extrovert- 12.5% Outgoing- 25% Shy - 4.17% Tolerant - 0 Patient - 2.08% Impatient - 2.08%
6. How often do you shop at urban outfitters? Weekly - 2.08% Every couple of weeks - 8.33% Every Month- 6.25% 3-6 months - 25% A couple of times a year - 33.33% Rarely - 22.92% 7. Would you class yourself as a feminist? Yes - 68.75% No- 31.25% 8. Why do you shop at Urban outfitters? Price - 0 Quality - 6.25% Value for money - 0 Fashionable - 60.42% Brand image/message - 0 The clothes are creative - 29.17% Other- 4.17% 9. Would you wear clothing for a political message? Yes - 20.83% No- 43.72% Maybe - 35.42% 10. Would you be interested in an urban outfitters feminist collection? Yes - 60.42% No- 39.58%
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