Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - January 2016

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YEAR 21 N. 92 - JANUARY 2016

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD 速

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EXTREME

WINES

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COVER STORY 28 | Extreme wines During festive meals, there’s nothing better than opening heroic bottles, the products of extreme ^Q\QK]T\]ZM WN XI[[QWV IVL [IKZQÅKM -`\ZMUM _QVM[ QV PIZUWVa _Q\P \PM _QV\MZ [MI[WV IZM TIJMT[ _Q\P [\ZWVO QLMV\Q\QM[ IVL _IZU PMIZ\[

WINE 40 | Best Buys Lombardy 2016 <PM XQK\]ZM \PI\ MUMZOML NZWU W]Z _QVM \I[\QVO[ in Lombardy is varied, complex, and above all rich QV INNWZLIJTM TIJMT[ )UWVO \PM \WX ^IT]M _QVM[" Bonarda, Riesling, Lugana, Chiaretto

january 2016 2 JANUARY 2016

40

52

«...Happiness like a fine wine, should be savoured sip by sip....» Ludwig Feuerbach, philosopher (1804-1872)

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63

TRAVEL

63 | Recipes from Great Chefs ) XI[[QWVI\M \ZI^MTMZ QV TW^M _Q\P KWWSQVO [QVKM KPQTLPWWL ;\MNIVW 5I[IV\Q IVL PQ[ _QNM :INNIMTTI embrace their Valtellina, a land of great products IVL OZIVL _QVM[

52 | Valtellina. Terrace above the world <_W \PW][IVL Å^M P]VLZML SQTWUM\MZ[ WN ^QVMaIZL \MZZIKM[ I ]VQY]M TIVL[KIXM PMZWQK OZIXMOZW_QVO IVL \PM ZMVIQ[[IVKM WN \ZILQ\QWVIT UW]V\IQV ÆI^WZ[ cheeses – Bitto and Casera above all – and cured ^MVQ[WV IVL SQL 8IQZ Q\ ITT _Q\P \PM ^ITTMa¼[ [XTMVLQL Nebbiolo

NEWS & MORE

4 | Editorial 6 | News 10 | Events 14 | Italians abroad 5IZQW .QKW" <PM :WIL \W )J] ,PIJQ 18 | Wine of the month Langhe Nebbiolo ’13 Cortese 19 | Twitter dixit 22 | Design Bottle Carriers 24 | Pairing Lab Lombardy 26 | Foodies >ITTM L¼)W[\I

FOOD 50 | Early Extravergine…olive oil at its best <PM \ZMVL Q[ OIQVQVO [\ZMVO\P" MIZTa PIZ^M[\ <PM[M IZM VW_ \PM SMa _WZL[ NWZ \PW[M _PW IQU NWZ Y]ITQ\a QV \PM _WZTL WN M`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT -^MV ;XIQV _PMZM TIZOM Y]IV\Q\QM[ IVL TW_ XZQKM[ _MZM I _QVVQVO OIUM Q[ ]VLMZOWQVO KPIVOM

3 JANUARY 2016

EDITORIAL

THE BISTROT WAY OF LIFE After an overdose of endof-year cheer and resolutions, let’s start with a good glass of wine and some notes about a delightful book. Un ethnologue au bistrot, Ethnologist at the bistrot, is by Marc Auge, a French writer who introduced the concept of non-place, “the ambivalent space that has none of the familiar attributes of place - for instance, it incites no sense of belonging”, spaces in which there is no identity, relationship or history to give it sense. This could describe some soulless wines, those made by winemakers working too many estates, but also those that are artisanal but evidently defective, and don’t manage to express or ZMÆMK\ IVa\PQVO WN \PMQZ XTIKM WN JQZ\P <PM XIOM[ of Auge’s book thrust us into the colorful bistrots of Paris, those of Simenon’s Maigret. While we read, we were reminded of many Italian osterie and the cast of characters that turn up, ex-hunters and hosts with a ready wit, a marvelous theater of life. We all may become photographers, tasters and critics, but we go to these places, which Auge loves dearly, for a

simple reason: to feel good. We go to exchange gestures, renew rituals, tell stories. In too many restaurants we eat well, but never feel completely relaxed, especially over long evenings. Instead, visiting Italian osterie, especially those in the south, we ÅVL I [TW_ XIKM \PI\ Q[ \aXQKITly Mediterranean, just like the aroma of violets in sangiovese. European laws will have a hard time dealing with these hours. “A people that gives itself time to have lunch (many bistrots, despite the crisis, are packed full at lunchtime!) and that doesn’t resist the interminable discussions that arise among outdoor tables, is a romantic people that doesn’t live looking backwards, but is always waiting for tomorrow,” Auge writes. 4M\¼[ ÅTT IOIQV \PM[M XTIKM[ \PI\ are open to life and to contact. These are the ideal places to drink wine, here’s always possible to start a conversation. We feel at the same time at home and elsewhere. Time slows down. We talk about wine, food, travel, friends. And we never want to leave these tables. The bistrot is a theater of life. Lorenzo Ruggeri

4 JANUARY 2016

NEWS

50 times Vinitaly: 8 MILLION EUROS OF INVESTMENT AND 1000S MORE BUYERS. THE NEW FACE OF VINITALY An investment of eight million euros is planned for the 50th anniversary of Vinitaly, according to >MZWVIÅMZM XZM[QLMV\ Maurizio Danese. “Activities aimed at strengthening the fair business,” he underlined, “are the priority of the new administrative council.” Vinitaly, moreover, is part of the Extraordinary Promotion Plan for the internationalization of Made in Italy announced by the Italian government. It will be an important contribution alongside the European Union resources of OCM Vino (OrganizbIbQWVM +WU]VM LQ 5MZKI\W >MZWVIÅMZM +-7 /QW^IVVQ 5IV\W^IVQ [IQL ¹;XMKQÅK IK\QWV[ QV \IZOM\ KW]V\ZQM[

will be strengthened, and for orOIVQK IVL VI\]ZIT _QVM[ [XMKQÅK operators will be sustained in markets such as Northern Europe, ;KIVLQVI^QI /MZUIVa IVL *MVelux. The objective is to bring in 800 more selected buyers, besides those that traditionally visit Vinitaly.” Among the other innovations planned for the 2016 edition (April 10-13) will be the new International Five Star Wines Prize, presented by Ian D’Agata, scien\QÅK LQZMK\WZ WN >1) >QVQ\ITa 1Vternational Academy, which will give an impetus to marketing. Today, Vinitaly is part of a network that includes Vinitaly International, OperaWine, Vinitaly Wine Club, VIA - Vinitaly International Academy, wine2wine, Sol&Agrifood, Enolitech, and the prizes each offers.

Too much salt is bad for you. The war on sodium starts in New York Call it the salt war, the epic battle against the excessive use of salt that began at the end of 2015 in New York City. Restaurant chains with at least 15 locations in the United States are obliged to indicate items that have a sodium content PQOPMZ \PIV \PM [\IVLIZL[ JTM[[ML Ja \PM *WIZL WN 0MIT\P ZI\QÅML TI[\ ;MX\MUJMZ )VL [W IN\MZ I\\MUX\QVO \W ZMO]late soda size and encouraging the posting of calories on menus, New York is once again leading with an initiative to protect the health of consumers. All the new regulations principally affect fast food chains. An icon of a salt

shaker inside the classic danger triangle is positioned next to items with sodium content that exceeds the 2.3 gram recommended limit. The message is meant to help prevent or reduce cardiovascular disorders and high blood pres[]ZM WN\MV QVÆ]MVKML Ja LQM\ <PM [\MX PI[ JMMV [\ZWVOTa []XXWZ\ML Ja UIaWZ *QTT ,M *TI[QW _PW Q[ NWTTW_QVO QV \PM NWW\[\MX[ WN PQ[ XZMLMKM[[WZ 5QKPIMT *TWWUJMZO _PW IT[W favored policies that would address obesity through food ML]KI\QWV )T\PW]OP ÅVM[ NWZ \PW[M KPIQV[ \PI\ ^QWTI\M \PM new rules will only begin in March, many of the responses are positive. McDonald’s denies any wrongdoing, but othMZ KPIQV[ []KP I[ *]ZOMZ 3QVO 8IVMZI *ZMIL IVL ;]J_Ia have already eliminated some products and are committed to reducing the overall salt content of their menu items. On all sides, the hope is that the war on salt will bring JMVMÅ\[ \W \PM PMIT\P WN )UMZQKIV[" QV 6M_ AWZS ITWVM 23.9% of the adult population suffers from high blood XZM[[]ZM 0W_M^MZ \PM 6I\QWVIT :M[\I]ZIV\ )[[WKQI\QWV Q[ protesting the imposition of the salt warnings. 6

JANUARY 2016

Napa Valley: the first American Certification Mark for wine Just as Europe is concerned with defending its own appellations around the world, especially in places where the concept doesn’t even exist, Napa Valley in CaliforVQI PI[ WJ\IQVML I +MZ\QÅKI\QWV 5IZS NZWU \PM =VQ\ML ;\I\M[ 8I\MV\ IVL <ZILMUIZS 7NÅKM NWZ \PM VIUM 6IXI >ITTMaŸ 1\ Q[ \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM \PI\ IV )UMZQKIV >Q\Qcultural Area has been accepted for registration in this way, and it was a long and laborious process. Since 1981, the AVA designation has stated that wine from an AVA must have at least 85% of its grapes grown within \PM ZMOQWV *]\ W]\[QLM _QVMUISMZ[ PI^M NZMY]MV\Ta tried to use the Napa Valley name for products from W\PMZ [W]ZKM[ <PQ[ VM_ KMZ\QÅKI\QWV _QTT PMTX XZW\MK\ wines from the most famous American winegrowing area from fraudulent and improper use of its mark. A system of appellations such as those in Italy and France does not exist in the United States.

1\ \WWS Ă…^M aMIZ[ JMNWZM \PM = ; 8I\MV\ <ZILMUIZS WNĂ…KM IXXZW^ML \PM +MZ\QĂ…KI\QWV 5IZS <PM 6IXI >ITTMa >QV\VMZ[ \PM VWV XZWĂ…\ I[[WKQI\QWV \PI\ QVKT]LM[ W^MZ 525 producers from the region, had to provide more than 50 written agreements from wine businesses that use the word Napa to show they complied with AVA regulations. *M[QLM[ \PQ[ KMZ\QĂ…KI\QWV \PM 6IXI >ITTMa >QV\VMZ[Âź I[sociation has already obtained protected status for the VIUM QV )][\ZITQI *ZIbQT +IVILI +PQVI \PM -]ZWpean Union, India, Israel, New Zealand, Norway, Taiwan, Thailand and Turkey. This new step offers hope for appellation protection on a global level, especially for European producers who are often exposed to unfair labeling practices outside the continent itself.

7 JANUARY 2016

NEWS

Cordon Bleu COOKING SCHOOL will close its American branches Anyone who saw the American KWUMLa 2]TQM 2]TQI \PM Ă…TU \PI\ told the story of cookbook writer and television personality Julia Child, remembers the demanding cooking lessons she took at Le CorLWV *TM] .W]VLML QV ! QV 8IZQ[ W^MZ \PM LMKILM[ +WZLWV *TM] JMcame a chain with over 50 schools (franchises) around the world. Child herself made the institution iconic, ZM^MZML QV \PM =VQ\ML ;\I\M[ *]\ VW_ \PM +WZLWV *TM] KIUX][M[ in North America are closing. January 4, 2016 will be the last day for registration in the school. The exXTIVI\QWV IKKWZLQVO \W \PM +IZMMZ -L]KI\QWV +WZXWZI\QWV \PM KWUXIVa WZOIVQbQVO Ă…VIVKQVO IVL UIVIOQVO \PM +WZLWV *TM] KW]Z[M[ TQM[ QV VM_ NMLMZIT OW^MZVUMV\ ZMO]TI\QWV[ J]\ W\PMZ[ [Ia \PM KTW[QVO[ IZM UW[\Ta ZMTI\ML \W \PM 7JIUI ILUQVQ[\ZI\QWVÂź[ KZIKSLW_V WV NWZ XZWĂ…\ ML]KI\QWV <PM 68: JTWO <PM ;IT\ QV\MZ^QM_ML I NWZUMZ 4M +WZLWV *TM] \MIKPMZ 2M[[ :Wa š1 R][\ PWXM \PI\ Q\ LWM[VÂź\ X]\ I LIUXMZ WV IVaJWLaÂź[ QV[XQZI\QWV \W NWTTW_ \PQ[ XI\P JMKI][M JMQVO I KPMN IT\PW]OP Q\Âź[ I PIZL TQNM Q\Âź[ I OZMI\ TQNM Âş [PM [Ia[ *]\ IKKWZLQVO \W KPMN ;KW\\ 2WVM[ WN .ZMVKP ZM[\I]ZIV\ 5MV\WV QV *W[\WV š1 Z]V WVM WN \PM JM[\ ZM[\I]ZIV\[ QV \PM KW]V\Za IVL 1 PI^MVÂź\ PQZML IVaWVM W]\ WN 4M +WZLWV *TM] QV aMIZ[ Âş <PM ZMI[WV PM OWM[ WV \W [Ia Q[ \PI\ š3QL[ KWUM W]\ WN K]TQVIZa [KPWWT IVL [Ia Âť1 _IV\ I RWJ as a sous chef.’ And I say, ‘No, you have to start at the bottom like anyone else!’â€?.

COP 21: the world’s winegrowers’ response to climate change On December 11, the United Nations Conference on Climate Change, COP 21, completed its work. Viticulture, too, must face the climate changes taking place. Many producing KW]V\ZQM[ IZM \ZaQVO \W ÅVL [WT]\QWV[ and modifying their ways of making wine. In Australia, besides harvesting about eight days earlier than traditionally, growers are moving south, towards Tasmania. It is predicted that average temperatures in the principal Australian wine regions will rise between .3 and 1.7 degrees centigrade before 2030. Treasury Wine Estates, the largest winegrowers in the world, [WTL \PMQZ ^QVMaIZL[ QV 0]V\MZ >ITTMa

VWZ\P WN ;aLVMa \W J]a ?PQ\M 0QTT[ QV Tasmania. Similar actions are occurring elsewhere. In Italy, as in France and other producing countries in the Mediterranean area, growers are beginning to move their vineyards to higher altitudes, studying varieties that seem resistant to the effects of climate change. The climate situation favors, however, the colder zones of 6WZ\PMZV -]ZWXM []KP I[ /MZUIVa and the French regions of Champagne and Val de Loire, although \PM KPIVOM[ UIa UWLQNa \PM ÆI^WZ[ of these wines. The OIV - Organisation Internationale de la Vigne et du Vin - participates in a project called

8 JANUARY 2016

š " <MZZMVQ XMZ TI [QK]ZMbbI alimentare e climaticaâ€? (Terrain for food and climate safety) presented in Paris on December 1, a plan which aims to attain an annual increase of 4/1000 of soil carbon storage. This result could be essential in limiting the increase of global temperatures to 1.5 or at the most 2 degrees centigrade. In other environmental news. the ComitĂŠ Champagne has announced that thanks to work begun in the 1980s, in Q\ JMKIUM \PM Ă…Z[\ _QVM ZMOQWV QV the world to calculate its own carbon footprint. Today, 100% of Champagne growers are integrated into this process.

WORLDTOUR 2016 Vini d’Italia 2016

trebicchieri JANUARY 18 STOCKHOLM 19 OSLO 25 MUNICH

Vini d’Italia Vini d’Italia trebicchieri SPECIAL EVENT

PRESENTATION GUIDE

Vini d’Italia

FEBRUARY 04 CHICAGO 09 NEW YORK 11 SAN FRANCISCO 16 SEATTLE

MARCH 03 LONDON 12 DÜSSELDORF 21 SYDNEY

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APRIL 04 SAÕ PAULO 16 DUBAI

Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow Special Edition 17-19 DUBAI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience 20 ABU DHABI Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience 23-24 PALM SPRINGS Gambero Rosso & Vino Veritas Special edition

MAY 15 -16 16 18 20 25

SINGAPORE SINGAPORE BANGKOK MANILA HONG KONG

26 -27 TOKYO 27 TOKYO

Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Wines Roadshow Gambero Rosso Top Italian Wines & Spirits Special Edition for VinExpo Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience Vini d'Italia

INFO: www.gamberorosso.it/international

JUNE 02-04 MOSCOW 06 TORONTO 06-07 TORONTO 10 VANCOUVER 10-11 VANCOUVER

Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience trebicchieri Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience trebicchieri Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

SEPTEMBER LOS ANGELES DALLAS

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OCTOBER 25 ZURICH 27 WARSAW

Vini d’Italia Vini d’Italia

NOVEMBER 02 TOKYO 04 BEIJING 07 SHANGHAI 09 HONG KONG 18 MOSCOW

trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri

SPECIAL EVENT

PRESENTATION GUIDE

Vini d’Italia

9 segreteria.estero@gamberorosso.it

EVENTS

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

GREAT ITALIAN REDS WARM SCANDINAVIA stoccolma

oslo

Even polar temperatures in Sweden during the coldest week of this bizarre winter couldn’t stop the Gambero Rosso World Tour. The new season of international events took off in Stockholm, in the Grand Hotel. In this period of the year, the sun doesn’t ever rise completely. Light and atmosphere make the prolonged dawn [MMU QUUWZ\IT .IKQVO \PM PW\MT JTWKS[ WN QKM ÆWI\ML WV \PM Baltic Sea, while inside, thirty producers led a dynamic and participatory tasting for a large number of importers, journalists, and restaurateurs. The city is lively from the wine and food point of view. “In the last two or three years, many wine bars have opened, with each one specialized in a type of label, a niche. Wine lists have grown a great deal, both in terms of choices and depths of vintage years,” pointed out blogger Johan Thunberg. Among the wine bars (Erik Vinbar, The Burgundy, etc) 19 Glas deserves special mention. It is a delightful bistrot specialized in wines from small wineries inspired by the natural wine movement. Frank Cornelissen _QVM[ ÆW_ NZMMTa NWZ M`IUXTM UW[\Ta Ja \PM OTI[[ )UWVO \PM restaurants, Gro specializes in vegetarian cuisine, has a wonderfully matched wine list, and the classic Sturehof boasts a cellar that offers great depth of vintage years, whether guests are looking for Brovia or Conterno or the great French classics. Prices at ZM[\I]ZIV\[ NZQOP\MV M^MZaWVM M`KMX\ \PM ;KIVLQVI^QIV[ ,WV¼\ UQ[[ 3ITQ` KI^QIZ SITQ` 4 RZWU \PI\ KWUM[ NZWU _PQ\MÅ[P NW]VL in the Gulf of Bothnia, which, although it is a sea, has fresh wa10 JANUARY 2016

ter. Unique for its consistency and ÆI^WZ \PM LMTQKIKa Q[ [MZ^ML _Q\P toasted black bread, butter and chopped red onion. Back to the many questions and KWUUMV\[ _M ÅMTLML IJW]\ \PM wines tasted, we noticed a gradual shift. It’s true that wines with structure and concentration, like Amarone and Primitivo, still have great appeal. When the temperatures outside are 12° below zero centigrade, the desire for a cool glass of pigato fades. What’s called for is a wine that works like a warm blanket, enveloping, with good alcoPWT KWV\MV\ IVL M`\ZIK\Q^M XW_MZ something that works with the intensity of local cooking where even Å[P Q[ UILM _Q\P ^MZa MTIJWZI\M sauces. But we found enthusiasm and curiosity about new varieties, from gaglioppo to nero buono di Cori, from dolcetto to nerello mascalese. Systembolaget, the state

monopoly, is pushing hard to review and amplify its wine portfolio, welcoming a range of styles that would have been unthinkable a few years ago. The same is true for Vinimopolet, the Norwegian retail monopoly. On January 19, less than 12 hours after the stop in Sweden, Vini d’Italia UW^ML WV \W 7[TW \W ,7/) 6WZ_MOQIV +MV\ZM NWZ ,M[QOV IVL Architecture, inside a splendidly renovated factory. The marketplace – and we’re talking about a XWX]TI\QWV ]VLMZ Å^M UQTTQWV · Q[ smaller, but very attentive to quality. Price is not the crucial factor. This is the country with the highest per capita income in Europe, with WVTa 4]`MUJW]ZO IPMIL ,]ZQVO the seminars, fully booked here too, several elements came out. Many journalists were pleasantly surprised by the styles of the wines selected. ‘Clean’ and ‘elegant’ with 11 DECEMBER 2015

the most frequently heard adjectives. “The style of Barone Pizzini’s Franciacorta impressed me, along with Castello di Bolgheri and Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé (vintage 2013). It has more balanced sweetness and greater freshness than in other years. Italy is on the right track,” commented journalist Roger Kolbu. Umberto Valle, owner of Poggio Trevvalle, which proL]KM[ IV M`\ZIWZLQVIZa 5WZMTTQVW di Scansano, said, “I’m convinced that I made great contacts both in Stockholm and Oslo. I think I’ll be imported very soon. People here are getting used to a fragrant fruity style, to drinkability – essential wines without frills.” On January 25, it will be Munich’s turn, with 100 Tre Bicchieri wineries joining in. After that, Gambero :W[[W PI[ Å^M M^MV\[ [KPML]TML QV North America. M VM`\ \W W]Z[ _I[ LZQVSQVO _QVM

EVENTS

WHITE WINE 2016: FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO miami

S AVE T HE D AT E S AV E THE DAT E

Falanghina from the Sannio zone was one of the great revelations of our tastings for the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia guide. A denomination that is developing enormously in qualitative terms, its presence on Italian and international markets is growing. Another pleasant surprise is that great wines are coming from the Sannio at \Z]Ta INNWZLIJTM XZQKM[ <W ÅVL W]\ UWZM LWV¼\ UQ[[ \PM WHITE WINE 2016: FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO event that Gambero Rosso will hold in the wonderful setting of the terrace of Cibo South Beach in Miami, on February 2. One of the most marvelous features of falanghina is its wonderful ability to pair well with a wide variety of foods. It is a versatile wine, aromatically intense

IVL NZIOZIV\ QLMIT NWZ XIQZQVO _Q\P Wa[\MZ[ [PMTTÅ[P WZ Å[P KIZXIKKQW _Q\P XI[\I WZ [MINWWL .ITIVOPQVI WVM WN the favorite wines of Julius Caesar and the Roman emperors, is extraordinarily well-suited to drink with the world cuisine found at its best in Miami. It’s fantastic with sushi, with enchiladas and tacos, or with spaghetti and clams. It is majestic with arroz y pollo or Thai curry. 1\¼[ LQNÅK]T\ \W ÅVL IV LQ[P \PI\ LWM[V¼\ OW _MTT _Q\P \PQ[ wine. We are looking forward to seeing you on February 2 in Miami and sharing with you the wonderful world of Falanghina del Sannio. More than 20 producers will be on hand to offer food and wine lovers their best versions of this up-trending wine of the year.

Presented by

Presented by

WHITE WINE 2016

FALANGHINA WHITE WINEDEL 2016SANNIO

MIAMI MIAMI Tuesday February 2

FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO

nd

200 South Pointe Dr, Miami Beach Tuesday February 2nd CIBO Restaurant 200 South Pointe Dr, Miami Beach CIBO Restaurant

Program Masterclass 07.00 – 08.00 pm Program Wine Tasting 08.00 – 11.00 pm CAMPAIGN FINANCED PURSUANT EC REGULATION NUMBER 1308/13 CAMPAIGN FINANCED PURSUANT EC REGULATION NUMBER 1308/13

12 JANUARY 2016

Masterclass 07.00 – 08.00 pm Wine Tasting 08.00 – 11.00 pm

RSVP gr@mccuemc.com

mccuecommunications.com

ph (213) 985-1011

Family traditions since 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

ITALIANS ABROAD

by Stefania Annese

Mario Fico: The Road to Abu Dhabi An Italian chef who cooks Japanese food in the United Arab Emirates. It sounds like the beginning of a fable, a surreal literary invention. But the reality is a wonderful story of our times. The protagonist - an incurable traveler, Mario Fico. Today he is head chef at the Zuma Abu Dhabi restaurant, after working at the Zuma in Dubai. The chain is an international Japanese colossus created by German chef Rainer Becker. Although he left Italy many years ago, MaZQW .QKW PI[ VM^MZ NWZOW\\MV \PM ÆI^WZ[ WN PQ[ JQZ\PXTIKM IVL PMZM PM QV\MZXZM\[ 1\ITQIV K]Q[QVM _Q\P IV )[QIV ÆIQZ ¹4W^M WN K]KQVI _I[ XIZ\ WN Ua TQNM NZWU KPQTLPWWL º 5IZQW \WTL ][ ¹)\ IVa \QUM of day or night, my house was imbued with the aromas of home cooking, from the Sunday stew that my mother religiously prepared starting in the early hours of the day to the bread and cookies my grandmother regularly baked. My home was, and still is, a catheLZIT LMLQKI\ML \W OWWL ÆI^WZ[ º .ZWU +I[\MTTIVM\I I [UITT \W_V in Puglia, in southern Italy, Fico set out to seek new experiences and tastes around the world. He studied in the University of West 4WVLWV IVL JMOIV _WZSQVO QV \PM KQ\a¼[ QV\MZVI\QWVIT ZM[\I]ZIV\[ B]UI \PM ÅZ[\ TWKI\QWV WN *MKSMZ¼[ ZM[\I]ZIV\ KPIQV QV\ZWL]KML him to miso, sake and chopsticks. Mario then moved with the chain to New York to direct a brigade of talented chefs, on to Australia IVL ÅVITTa \W ,]JIQ _PMZM PM VW_ TQ^M[ _Q\P PQ[ _QNM IVL KPQTL For the elegant and welcoming environment of the Dubai Zuma, 14 JANUARY 2016

QV \PM ÅVIVKQIT LQ[\ZQK\ 5IZQW ÅVL[ top quality ingredients and furnishes his clients with unique sensory exXMZQMVKM[ ¹1 JMOIV _WZSQVO QV \PM Japanese culinary world out of curiosity and a desire to know about an ancient gastronomic tradition,” said 5IZQW ¹IVL 1 _I[ IUIbML Ja \PM purity and respect behind this cucina. Even the tools, such as the sushi knife, are devotedly cared for, and the plates themselves are composed of natural elements like sand or stone, showing how much respect there is for ingredients and for every food. 1\¼[ M[[MV\QIT VW\ \W LIUIOM ÆI^WZ[ º At the same time, Zuma is known for avant-garde Japanese cooking, authentic but not totally traditional. In this elegant atmosphere, interior design is thought out down to the smallest detail. Mario recommended we try his Miso Marinated Black +WL _Q\P _I[IJQ KQ\Z][ I ZM[\I]ZIV\ KTI[[QK <PM Å[P Q[ UIZQVI\ML QV UQ[W for three days, then cooked with sake and mirin, baked with hoba leaves that enhance aroma, and served with ginger root, miso sauce,

wasabi and fresh lime. The preparation time is long, and the dish is IV I[\WVQ[PQVO M`XTW[QWV WN ÆI^WZ )T[W M`KMTTMV\ _I[ \PM A]b] [MIJI[[ _Q\P \Z]NÆM XWVb] IVL [ITUWV ZWM Sashimi of all kinds was sublime. ¹;I[PQUQ Q[ IV IZ\ IVL JMPQVL Q\ Q[ tradition and research,” Mario went on.”It must be prepared in the correct manner and served with freshly grated fresh wasabi to offer an array WN ÆI^WZ[ 1 KW]TLV¼\ LW _Q\PW]\ Q\ on the menu anymore.” But like all great chefs who are passionate about culinary matters, Mario wants to TWWS NWZ IVL M`XMZQMVKM VM_ ÆI^WZ[ and intensify the ones he knows. ¹<PM[M PI^M JMMV MQOP\MMV aMIZ[ WN insane and overwhelming passion, years of joy, hard work and satisNIK\QWV º KWVKT]LML 5IZQW ¹1 _QTT never stop traveling. Travel makes us more alive and aware of the reality of our planet. The art of the kitchen has helped me achieve many OWIT[ J]\ 1 LWV¼\ \PQVS 1¼^M ZMIKPML a conclusion yet. The voyage is long, IVL 1¼U IT_Ia[ []ZM \W JM TWWSQVO NWZ VM_ K]TQVIZa PWZQbWV[ º

TASTING

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

A corner of South Africa in the center of Rome

There is an up-scale neighborhood in Rome that tourists seldom see, hidden between the Trieste and Parioli quarters. The Coppedè district is an extraordinary set of buildings designed by architect Gino Coppedè between 1913 and 1927 in a unique style that combines Art Nouveau, medieval, Baroque and ancient Greek. Among the villas and

arches of the complex is the South African embassy. We’re telling you about it because it isn’t just any embassy. Thanks to the work of Ambassador Nomatemba Tambo, it is one of the most active in promoting its country’s enologic heritage with dinners, tastings and seminars. These diplomats have understood that having an impact on the Italian social fabric can be effectively achieved through food and wine. The occasion of the tasting in question was \PM ÅZ[\ IVVQ^MZ[IZa WN \PM ;W]\P African Wine Club, with pairings prepared by South African chef Sacha Kingston and Italian chef Luca Vaccaro. In the classic subdivision between producers of the New and Old Worlds, South Africa usually comes QV\W \PM ÅZ[\ KI\MOWZa 5Q[\ISMVTa 16 JANUARY 2016

Wine history that goes back 350 years is a witness to a long tradition that involves voyages and emigration such as those of the Huguenots. The key date is 1659, when Jan van Riebeeck, a Dutch doctor for the Dutch East India Company, settled QV [W]\P )NZQKI IVL XTIV\ML \PM ÅZ[\ vines. Today the South African wine

HERE ARE THE WINES TASTED THAT EVENING Viognier Reserve 2014 Diemersfontein

We begin in Wellington, a ward (the equivalent of the Italian denominazione d’origine) of Paarl, a coastal wine region surrounded by mountains. It is one of the warmest zones of South African viticulture, with very hot summers and cold winters. The soil is predominantly clayey. This viognier was rich and fragrant, with grape maturation purposely late. A nose of apricot and orange peel. The palate is full and assertive with a residue of sugars and a background of toasted almond that comes from 30% of the _QVM JMQVO IOML QV ÅZ[\ IVL [MKWVL passage 300-liter French barrels. This is a ample and juicy white, perfect for light meats.

Sauvignon Blanc 21 Gables 2013 Spier

industry gives work to about 300,000 people thanks to almost 100,000 hectares of vineyard, about evenly divided between white (54.6%) and red grapes (45.4%). Chenin – we recently tasted a parade of old vintages that were truly exceptional – and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most common varieties. Production increases rapidly: in 2014 it reached 958.8 million liters (in 2006 it was 628.5 million). One more number: the annual per-capita consumption in the country is about 9.5 liters, which means South Africans drink about as much wine as North AmeriKIV[ LW 5IVa WN \PM _QVMZQM[ _PW[M products we tasted have centuries of family history behind them. The denominations of origin system dates back only to 1973, about ten years after it was established in Italy.

A winery that has been writing history since 1692. The grapes come from Tyberberg hills, where the climate is cool and daily temperature excursions make it ideal for aromatic varieties. Selection is only from the best lots, ^QVQÅKI\QWV Q[ QV [\IQVTM[[ [\MMT _Q\P three months of aging on its lees, a practice that is becoming more common for whites in Italy, with excellent results, as in South Africa. Aromas are marked, but not pungent, ranging from tropical fruit to a more subtle grassy note, to tea and white pepper. The palate is guided by acidity with average body and a well-modulated, PIZUWVQW][ ÅVQ[P

Pinot Noir 2012 Meerlust

5MMZT][\ NZWU /MZUIV UMIVQVO »XTMI[]ZM WN \PM [MI¼ Q[ WVTa Å^M SQlometers from the Indian Ocean, in the heart of Stellenbosch, the eastern zone of Cape Town, surrounded Ja UW]V\IQV[ IVL MVRWaQVO I 5MLQterranean climate. The winery was founded in 1756, and today is run by

17 JANUARY 2016

the eighth generation of winemakers. The soil is rich in clay, granite gravel, sandstone. This Pinot Noir is subject to partial green harvesting and agQVO QV VM_ IVL [MKWVL ÅTTQVO JIZZMT[ <PM ZM[]T\ Q[ I ÆWZIT IVL []VVa _QVM rich in fruit but well-sustained by a noteworthy savory tone, with incisive hints of peppery and spicy notes. Praiseworthy management of different woods.

Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2011 Jordan Chameleon

Here we are looking at a decidedly more concentrated wine and tannic character in a blend of cabernet sauvignon (48%), merlot (43%) and syrah (9%). A juicy red, it has dark spices still evident, licorice, sweet tobacco, but also slight earthy notes. The palate is full, with a tannic texture that is still very rigid and calls for more time, but extraction is not excessive and time in the bottle will give it the right equilibrium. Slight iron note on the ÅVQ[P 6W\PQVO JIVIT IJW]\ \PQ[ _QVM and it is certainly not the usual Bordeaux blend from the New World. 20 months of barrique. Takes patience.

Pinotage 2012 Arabella

We close with a young winery, which in 2007 took over an historic property that had belonged to the De Wet family since 1860. This is the region of Robertsons, a more internal zone. The variety is indigenous par excellence, a cross of pinot noir and cinsault carried out by the University of Stellenbosch in 1925. A delicately herbaceous tone, notes of pepper and dark fruit, a juicy but slightly statis XITI\M IVL I TQVMIZ KWZZMK\ ÅVQ[P

WINE OF THE MONTH

An electrifying Langhe Nebbiolo Langhe Nebbiolo ’13 Cortese 6,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 13.40 euros Work in the vineyard and the winery may be the same as ever, but only a very distracted viewer could ignore the Cortese family‘s decisive gear shift in their offerings in recent vintage years. Led by Giuseppe and Rossella, along with their son Piercarlo, the winery has developed its entire range of labels, from Dolcetto to Barbera to their grand versions of Barbaresco. The Cortese‘s eight hectares of vineyard are within the Rabajà cru and on the slope contiguous with Trifolera. Their wines are striking for their unexpected feminine, light touch, attained through aging in large and middle-sized barrels of both Slavonian and French oak.The 2013 is an exceptional version of Langhe Nebbiolo, I _QVM \PI\ _M PWXM \W ÅVL WV UIVa _QVM lists, since tasting it left us wanting more. It displayed luminous color and bouquet in a nervous and electrifying wine that stimulates the taste buds in an enthralling way with its energy and natural expressiveness. Triggers wild salivation but without hardness on the XITI\M aM\ \PM ÅVQ[P Q[ IQZa IVL X]ZM )KQLQ\a XMZNMK\Ta JITIVKM[ \PM UMI\a IVL [_MM\ ÆIvors of a steak tartare softened by a pat of )TXQVM J]\\MZ IVL MVTQ^MVML _Q\P \PM [I^WZ of Cantabrico anchovies.

18 JANUARY 2016

TWITTER dixit

WineTrailAdventures

Robert M Parker, Jr

Life motto

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James Suckling

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Nicolette Waterford

winerist

James Kasprzyk

Robert M Parker, Jr

Grape Growers of Ont

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19 JANUARY 2016

www.vinocustoza.it

#Custoza #italian #whitewine

Campagna finanziata ai sensi del regolamento CE N. 1308/2013 Campaign funded under EC regulation No. 1308/2013

DESIGN

WINE UP

SNAZZY BOTTLE-CARRIERS VINSTRIP

VIN VIN

22 JANUARY 2016

Winter temperatures encourage conviviality and time indoors with friends and family. After accepting an invitation to dinner, we usually bring a present, perhaps a good bottle of wine to taste together. But appearances play a part, and to avoid showing up with a naked bottle in hand, or a plastic bag, modern design has found ways to dress up our gift. Innovation and materials with low environmental impact are the key words for these functional Italian creations, reusable and pleasing to the eye. Behind the Made in Italy products are small and large companies, where cooperation has become fundamental for successful exporting. The team of Vassalliassociati + Moredesign is a collective of ten designers from various sectors that work together to interpret the needs of their customers. Vassalliassociati + Moredesign created Wine Up Series, packaging organized for the Averli brand, offering creative and convenient solutions for transporting wine. Sport Wagon, for example has six compartUMV\[ _Q\P ÆM`QJTM Z]JJMZ [TMM^M[ \PI\ XMZNMK\Ta OZQX bottles of different shapes so that the wine is protected. When not in use, Sport Wagon folds up neatly and can be carried anywhere. Boxter is part of the same line and can transport three bottles. Monoposto is designed for one. Civico 13 is a multi-disciplinary design studio in Torino, staffed by a group of architects. Projects are developed through different approaches, and each result is

both functional and clever. Civico 12 designed Vin Vin, two identical bottle carriers joined by a handle. Each can hold two bottles. Made of polypropylene, the carriers are virtually indestructible and can be used over and over. Another feature is its stability: Vin Vin can stand by itself on the ground without tipping. Vinstrip, made in Verona, is a crushable bottle carrier that transforms into a woven net bag, designed to hold and transport wine easily. Strong and soft, it is available in many colors and sizes, ranging from small ones for a bottle of water to Double, BOTTLE CARRIER BY DEOM which can hold two wine bottles. It would make a delightful gift. #PKGSP | Packaging Specialist has a vast range of LM[QOV[ NWZ Ă…ZU[ \PI\ _IV\ \W XZM[MV\ OQN\[ QV XMZ[WVITized containers. On its web site, it offers amusing and sturdy bags, boxes and containers of all sorts. Alessandro Mason, after working for a leader in the production of shopping bags, in 2005 founded Talento Business Development, specialized in consulting for shoppers and packaging producers. A passion for design led to a second company, the Packaging Specialist, which offers a range of paper and cardboard, plastic and fabric containers that can be personalized with logos and colors. Clean lines and simple geometric forms are the specialty of Deom, a workshop in Volta Mantovana with a dynamic and young team that aims to satisfy any requirement for packaging and showing off a product. Prices are low for memorable, imaginative packages suitable for any occasion, completely recyclable and appealing. Yet again, Italian design amazes us.

SPORT WAGON

SPORT WAGON

Stefania Annese

23 JANUARY 2016

PACKAGING

DO AS LOMBA

PAIRING

drawings by Chiara Buosi

Tortelli di zucca LUGANA

Risotto alla milanese FRANCIACORTA EXTRA BRUT

Pizzoccheri alla valtellinese

VALTELLINA SUPERIORE 24 JANUARY 2016

THE ARDS DO Ossobuco con polenta OP BONARDA VIVACE

Cotoletta alla milanese OP PINOT NERO M. CL.

Gorgonzola stravecchio

25 JANUARY 2016

MOSCATO DI SCANZO

FOODIES

AOSTA. CASTLES AND COOPERATIVES Fort Bard. A few kilometers before the entrance to the Vallée is Caves Cooperatives Donnas, in a town with an ancient grapegrowing tradition. Nebbiolo and freisa have always been cultivated here, as well as erbaluce and pinot gris. At one time, the indigenous prié blanc was common, a wine that was consumed on August 1, for the feast day of San Pietro in Vincoli, Saint Peter in Chains. Ussel Castle. Built in 1343 by Ebalo II of Challant, it is set on a rocky promontory above Dora Baltea river, overlooking Chatillon. To reach it, you pass by Verrès and Arnad, the site of Kiuva, WVM WN \PM ÅZ[\ KWWXMZI\Q^M _QVMZQM[ NW]VLML Ja the region forty years ago. All the vineyards are located at an altitude of between 400 and 500 meters. They include antique varieties that, after years of abandonment, are slowly recovering.

LA VALLÉE. A tour of the castles that punctuate the mountains and valleys, visiting splendid wineries that work with indigenous grapes and achieve stunning results

CROTTA DI VEGNERON

26 JANUARY 2016

FENIS CASTLE

Fenis Castle. With no natural defenses, this castle combines the characteristics of a fort with those of an elegant residence. It stands on a grassy ZQ[M W^MZ +PIUJI^M _PMZM _M ÅVL +ZW\\I LQ >MOneron, a winery that focuses on its territory and indigenous varieties such as cornalin. Aymavilles Castle. At the entrance to the road that leads to Cogne, this castle is recognizable for its four towers and elegant structure. After passing it, continuing on the SR47 brings you to Onze Communes, a cooperative that collects the grapes from vineyards in 11 municipalities (comuni). All the red wines are from local grapes, such as the celebrated Torrette, based on petit rouge, or FuUQV _PQKP _I[ ÅZ[\ LWK]UMV\ML QV Saint Pierre and Sarriod de la Tour. Two castles rise inside the village of Saint Pierre. Leaving them behind you, and driving along SS26, you arrive at the Inferno…or rather, the organic vineyards of the Cooperative Vini Co-Enfer. They grow in a natural amphitheater with a southern exposure and a very warm climate, an ‘inferno’ despite the 800-meter altitude. Besides local wines, Eau di l’Enfer is made here, a distilled spirit from monovarietal petit rouge, aged in barrique. with the collaboration of Arabella Pezza

ADDRESSES DONNAS CAVES COOPERATIVES DONNAS via Roma, 97 tel. 0125 807096 www.donnasvini.it ARNAD COOPERATIVA LA KIUVA fraz. Pied de Ville, 42 tel. 0125 966351 www.lakiuva.it CHAMBAVE CROTTA DI VEGNERON p.zza Roncas, 2 tel. 0166 46670 www.lacrotta.it AYMAVILLES ONZE COMMUNES loc. Urbains, 14 tel. 0165 902912 www.caveonzecommunes.it

SARRIOD DE LA TOUR

FORT BARD

27 JANUARY 2016

ARVIER COOPÉRATIVE DE L’ENFER via C. Gex, 65 www.coenfer.it

A TA ST E C ALLED M ADE IN SICILY. T he C onsort i u m C.A .M.B .R .I .A . b o r n i n S i c i l y , n o w aday s i s a w i n e s pinneret, w h i c h p r o m o t e d a n d a dve r t i se d i t s f i n al pr o du c t s. T he C onsort i u m , a m b a s s a d o r o f t h e " M ade i n S i c i l y " i s r e ady t o g et the ma i n r o le o f t h e m o s t i mpo r t an t n at i o n al pr o du c e r s of w ines. T he produce d wi n e s a r e b o r n u p o n t h e Fu r n ar i h i l l s, i n t h e h e ar t of the M am e r t i n o D o c a r e a , e x a c t l y o n t h e sl o pe s o f t he Tindari Ne b r o d i m o u n t a i n s , 45 km w e st o f M e ssi n a. T hey are Pr o t e c t e d Ge o g r a p h i c al In di c at i o n and Denom i n a t i o n o f Pr o t e c t e d O r i gi n w i n e s, am ong w hic h we f i n d lo c a l v a r i e t i e s l i ke Nocera, N e r o d ’ A v o la , N e r e llo M asc al e se ; there are a ls o s m a ll q u a n t i t i e s o f w h i t e grapes, a ‘ s h i n y ’ Ca t a r r a t t o , I n z o l i a, G reca nico, Gr i llo a n d o t h e r q u a n t i t i e s o f non-traditio n a l g r a p e v a r i e t i e s li ke S y r ah and C hardo n n a y i n a t e r r i t o r y t h a h as a natura l a n d e x t r a o r d i n a r y p e do c l i mat i c cond ition, a r i g h t e x p o s u r e t o w i n ds as it faces no r t h a n d i s p r o t e c t e d f r o m t h e Tin d a ri- N eb r o d i m o u n t a i n s ; t h i s r e p r e s e n t s the id ea l co n d i t i o n t o e n s u r e t h e e qu i l i br at e d grow th of vi n e s , a s we ll a s o li v e s. I t p rom otes g o o d m a t u r a t i o n o f t h e gr ape s rich in aroma a n d i n t e r e s t i n g g r adat i o n .

Furnari (Messina) Italy

www.consorziocambria.it info@consorziocambria.it

ADIMMAGINE:it

A n d it is w ith g r e a t p r i d e t h a t t h e C o n so r t i u m C AM BRIA p r esents the r e s u lt o f Ma g n i f i c e n c e : M ast r o n i c o l a N o cera. T he w i n e h a s g o t t h e c h a r m o f an E mpe r o r, r eady to conq u e r t h e f u t u r e . Th is precious j e we l o f d i s t i n g u i s h e d f i n e sse , o bt ai n e d f r om a n a d v a n c e d v i n i f i c a t i o n p r o c e ss an d a c ar e f u l a g e ing p hase i n b a r r i q u e s , wi ll t o u c h y o u w i t h i t s u n iquenes s , its s o f t n e s s , i t s a u t h e n t i c i t y an d f o r i t s u n mis ta kabl e an d p e r s i s t e n t a r o m a . T h e c o mme n dabl e o rganol eptic an d t a s t e q u a li t y o f t h e gr ape s an d t h e rig or of th e v i n i f i c a t i o n , , a llo we d t h e M ast r o n i c o l a h a s been aw a r d e d b e t we e n “ T OP H UND RE D 2 01 2 ” , t h e best w ines o f I t a ly .

COVER STORY

by Gianni Fabrizio, William Pregentelli and Lorenzo Ruggeri

EXTREME WINES

28 JANUARY 2016

During festive meals, there’s nothing better than opening heroic bottles, the products of extreme viticulture, of passion and sacrifice. Mountain wines, in harmony with the winter season, are labels with strong identities and warm hearts

29 JANUARY 2016

T

he only place in the world where inconvenient vineyards are still cared for is Europe. Everywhere else, they have been abandoned, or never attended to. Inconvenient because of their altitude or their steep slopes, these properties are hard to reach IVL LQNÅK]T\ \W _WZS 1\ UISM[ [MV[M \PMZMNWZM to include in one category mountain, terraced or steep vineyards and even windswept ones on Mediterranean or Atlantic islands. This is all viticulture that, a little pompously, has been called heroic. In contrast, vineyards in the New World run, in general, in long and monotonous strips on IJ[WT]\MTa ÆI\ \MZZIQV [W OZW_MZ[ KIV \ISM IL^IVtage of their important ally, mechanization. The reasons for the existence in Europe of these challenging, hard-tomaintain rows of grapes are deeply rooted in our past. Wine has always been part of the meal in the Old World. Not so long ago, transporting goods was unsafe and costly, so near every farm, families planted the few vines necessary for their own wine. They couldn’t pay much attention to \PM LQNÅK]T\QM[ KWVVMK\ML with the vines’ position. In Italy, after the arrival of parasitic diseases and phylloxera, at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th,

COVER STORY

\PM UW[\ LQNÅK]T\ bWVM[ were abandoned, little by little. But people care about their own traditions, and sometimes the unmatchable quality of the wines meant that numerous crus survived despite the logic of economic returns. )VL _PMV ÅVITTa QV \PM glass, the results attained in certain wine-growing areas considered marginal demonstrate how the pride and stubbornness of these extreme growers have given us a truly unique heritage. From mountainous areas such as Valle d’Aosta, the Pinerolese, Val Susa, Valtellina, Val di Cembra, Val Venosta, Valle Isarco, Irpinia, Etna and Barbagia come some of 1\ITa¼[ JM[\ SVW_V TIbels. Other zones with terraced or particularly steep vineyards, such as Dolceaqua, Cinque Terre, Colli di Luni, the Sorrentine Peninsula or \PM )UITÅ +WI[\ KIV also compete with the best national and international production. All the grapegrowing zones just mentioned, along with others not cited, have microclimates and soil that confer absolutely unique aromas IVL ÆI^WZ[ \W \PMQZ NZ]Q\ certainly not reproducQJTM QV M`\MV[Q^M ÆI\TIVL vineyards. Wines such as Fumin, Carema, Rossese di Dolceacqua, Sforzato, Trento Brut, Sylva-

ner from Valle Isarco, <I]ZI[Q +W[\I L¼)UITÅ Bianco, Etna Bianco or Rosso, Cannonau di Mamoiada are splendid products of Italian MVWTWOa ?M KIV ÅVL unique products such as these in other European KW]V\ZQM[ I[ _MTT <PQVS of the greatness of a Riesling of the Moselle or Wachau, of a Petite Arvine from the Valais, a ,ubITMa 4I^I]` WV 4ISM Leman, Collioure or Banyuls from the French Roussillon district, Priorat or Moscatel di Lanzarote from the Canary Islands, a vintage Port or an old Madeira, even IV )[[aZ\QSW NZWU ;IVtorini: we have entered the realm of supreme wine. Centuries of labor and sweat allowed humans to carve out space on the mountains and domesticate the steepest hills through ingenious systems of dry walls, indispensable for terraced cultivation. <PQ[ _WZS JM[QLM[ JMQVO necessary to the production of these pearls of enology, also protected the landscape, preventing the soil from slipping into the valley, avoiding at the same time the dispersion of water and resulting desertification. Human efforts contributed to the fame and charm of these wine areas and eventually led to the growth of premium tourism. 30 JANUARY 2016

CERVIM, A COMPETITION FOR EXTREME LABELS Keeping a mountainous agricultural landscape healthy calls for enormous economic investment that tourism and the sale of wine sometimes can’t manage to adequately reward. Since 1987, besides their own force of will or personal determination (qualities that have always distinguished them), heroic winegrowers have been able to count on the help of Cervim (Centre for the Research, Study, Protection, Co-ordination and Advancement of Mountain Viticulture.). This international organization, founded under the auspices of OIV (Organizzazione internazionale della vigna e del vino) aims at protecting viticulture in extreme zones: vineyard sites at altitudes over 500 meters (1600 feet), vines planted on slopes greater than 30% or on terraces or embankUMV\[ ^QVM[ XTIV\ML WV [UITT Q[TIVL[ QV LQNÅK]T\ OZW_QVO KWVLQ\QWV[ ;QVKM 1991, Cervim has been organizing the International Mountain Wine Competition with the aim of promoting wines produced in mountain areas or in areas _Q\P LQNÅK]T\ KWVLQ\QWV[ ZM_IZLQVO \PM JM[\ XZWL]K\[ NZWU PMZWQK ^QVMaIZL[ whether they are aromatic, slender mountain whites or powerful, saline island whites. This year the awards were presented during the Vins Extrêmes event at Forte di Bard, in the presence of (among others) Stefano Celi ( president of VIVAL-Viticoltori della Valle d’Aosta, and Roberto Gaudio, president of Cervim. The 23rd edition of the competition gave awards to 191 wines, with 4 grand gold medals, 62 gold medals and 125 silver medals. Thirteen special awards were given, chosen from the 602 wines presented by 218 wineries.

THE TASTINGS Liguria Colli di Luni Vermentino Solaris 2014 | La Baia del Sole |

Ortonovo (SP) | fraz. Antica Luni | www.cantinefederici.com In Ortonovo, near the ruins of the antique, imperious white city of Luni, the Federic family cultivates about 12 hectares of vineyard. The family-owned business is expanding, gathering indigenous grapes from about 60 growers - vermentino, albarola, malvasia, sangiovese, canaiolo and ciliegiolo – as well as international varieties such as merlot and syrah. Vermentino Solaris ’14 was an exciting wine, with a rich nose of medicinal herbs and a counterpoint of ÆWZIT VW\M[ of acacia and elderberry. In the mouth, it

LQ[XTIa[ ÅVM[[M IVL MTMOIVKM WV I ÅVQ[P of great impact.

Cinque Terre 2014 | Samuele Heydi Bonanini | Riomaggiore (SP) | www.possa.it )[ WV \PM )UITÅ +WI[\ \PM ^Q\QK]T\]ZM of the splendid Cinque Terre is laid out on terraces and dry walls poised above \PM [MI ;IU]MTM 0MaLQ LWM[ OZMI\ _WZS on the challenging hills of Riomaggiore, one of the pearls of the Cinque Terre. 1N aW] LWV¼\ ]VLMZ[\IVL \PM LQNÅK]T\QM[ and the care involved in its production, you can’t properly appreciate the wine of this territory, above all in a vintage year as complex and rainy as 2014. Nevertheless, 0MaLQ UIVIOML \W UISM I OZMI\ _QVM even this year, with an inviting color of golden straw yellow and typical sensations of saltiness, citrus fruit rind and ripe fruit. The palate is full and rich in extracts. It is a wine of great character.

31 JANUARY 2016

Dolceacqua 2014 | Maixei |

Dolceacqua (IM) | www.maixei.it <PM 5IQ`MQ _QVMZa \PIVS[ \W .IJQW +WZradi and Pasquale Restuccio, is doing OZMI\ _WZS <PIVS[ IZM L]M IT[W \W \PMQZ grapegrowers who, in Val Nervia and in Valle Crosia, in the Imperia province, cultivate vineyards on steep slopes supported by dry walls, called in local dialect maixei. A precise choice PI[ LQZMK\ML \PM ÅZU¼[ line in recent years. They focus on Dolceacqua, an important, aristocratic Ligurian red wine. The 2014 version demonstrates immediacy and intensity, with notes of ripe red fruit. Extreme elegance and fullness depend on tight tannins and good acidQ\a <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ XTMI[ant and very persistent..

Valle d’Aosta Valle d’Aosta Pinot Gris 2014 | Cave Gargantua | Gressan (AO) | cavegargantua.com 4I]ZMV\ +]VuIb _WZS[ I\ \PM T¼1V[\Q\]\ Agricole Régional, but for two years he has been able to give free rein to his passion for the soil, inherited from his grandfather, Pierino. He began with a few parcels in Gressan to which he added a few rows of vines in Morgex. Today, Laurent turns out almost 12,000 bottles. 8QVW\ /ZQ[ Q[ UIOVQÅKMV\ 1\ Q[ XZWduced in the village of Chevrot at almost 800 meters above sea level. The nose is generous and intense, with great notes of ripe pear, pineapple and fresh butter. On the palate, good acidic tension is rendered fuller and fatter

COVER STORY by the contribution of a stay in barrique, where a small part of the initial must ferments and ages for some months.

Valle d’Aosta Pinot Noir 2013 | Elio Ottin |

Aosta | www.ottinvini.it The winery led by Elio Ottin, although still not ten years old, is already seen as one of the most prestigious in the region. From four hectares of property in Porossan, a village right near Aosta itself, the winery obtains 30,000 bottles annually, subdivided among the various traditional wines of the region. One of the best Pinot Noir varieties in the zone grows at almost 600 meters above sea level in a vineyard characterized by tall trellises. A wonderfully complex red, it displays red berry and spicy aromas, then a full-bodied palate with tannins that are already fairly soft.

Valle d’Aosta Syrah 2013 | Rosset Terroir | Quart (AO) |

www.rosseterroir.com Nicola Rosset’s winery, founded in 2001, represents a sort of return to his ZWW\[ <PM ÅZ[\ JW\\TM[ IXXMIZML _Q\P \PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ *IKSML Ja I ÅZ[\ KTI[[ [\INN PQ[ _QVMZa KWV\QV]M[ \W grow, but the primary occupation of the owner is his St Roch distillery. From his PMK\IZM[ PM UISM[ few labels, among which Syrah stands out. The vineyard is still relatively young. At 750 meters above sea level, it produces almost 4,000 bottles of a red that exults in fresh fruit and spice JTIKS XMXXMZ IVL gives immediate pleasure.

Valle d’Aosta Fumin Ten Perdu 2010 | Didier Gerbelle |

Aymavilles (AO) | gerbelle@hotmail.it Didier Gerbelle is used to getting started early. When he was six years old, he helped his grandfather Emiro in the vineyard, learning to prune the vines. At 20, in PM \WWS KPIZOM WN \PM NIUQTa _QVMZa IVL JW\\TML PQ[ ÅZ[\ _QVM[ <PM _QVMOZW_ing prodigy of the Valle d’Aosta intervenes as little as possible in vineyard and cellars, leaving the wine the time it needs \W ÅVL PIZUWVa .]UQV Q[ PIZ^M[\ML _PMV slightly overripe. After maceration that can last over two months, it is aged in barriques for three years. The 2010 has complex aromas of spices IVL JIZS I LMV[M IVL _MTT LMÅVML tannic weave, and I ^MZa TWVO ÅVQ[P A red that promises longevity.

Piedmont Pinerolese RamĂŹe 2013 | Coutandin |

Perosa Argentina (TO) | ramie.coutandin@alpimedia.it ?PMV _M \PQVS IJW]\ 8QMLUWV\Âź[ _QVM the province of Torino, the Val Susa and the Pinerolese zone rarely come to mind. Yet a bottle of RamĂŹe from the Coutandin family is a true example of an heroic label. The wine is made by blending the grapes from two vineyards located at 700 meters above sea level, the steeply terraced Pomaretto in Valle Germanasca and the Perosa Argentina in Val Chisone. This red has a strong mountain XMZ[WVITQ\a" LIZS on the nose, with [MV[I\QWV[ WN ZWKS

32 JANUARY 2016

IVL NWZM[\ ÆWWZ )][\MZM WV \PM XITI\M Q\ offers fascinating dry sensations.

Valtellina Sup. Valgella CĂ MorĂŠi 2013 | Sandro Fay |

Teglio (SO) | elefay@tin.it Valgella is one of the Valtellina’s most interesting subzones. In 1973, Sandro Fay founded the family winery, today well-run by his son Marco. Through constant care for old vineyards and choosing to move production to higher IT\Q\]LM[ \PMa WJ\IQV _QVM[ WN UIZSML fragrance and freshness. The delicious, MTMOIV\ +o 5WZuQŸ PI[ ÆWZIT [KMV\[ and aromas of red fruit, hints of pepper and salt air. An imposing palate, smooth tannins and a long, velvety ÅVQ[P KWUplete the picture.

Valtellina Sup. Dirupi Ris. 2012 | Dirupi |

Montagna in Valtellina (SO) | www.dirupi.com We can’t mention Dirupi’s Valtellina Superiore Riserva ’12 without first mentioning the “Blues Brothers� of Valtellina wine, Birba and Faso, that is, Pierpaolo di Franco and Davide Fasolini. In a few years, they gave shape and substance to old vineyards clinging \W \PM ZWKS[ JZQVOQVO \PM bWVM I NZM[P breeze of energy and optimism along with crystalline talent. Elegant, airy, delicious, energetic and inviting, this Riserva ’12 displays amazing natural expressiveness. It embodies the essence of the territory with its elegant aromas of raspberries and wild strawberries, shades of tobacco and licorice, and a fine, juicy and crisp palate with a very long finish.

Trentino Trentino Müller-Thurgau 2014 | Zanotelli | Cembra (TN) |

www.zanotelliwines.com On the steep, sunny hills of Val di Cembra, one of the most romantic zones of the Trentino region, the Zanotelli family has been tirelessly _WZSQVO \PMQZ ^QVMaIZL[ [QVKM Harvesting grapes full of character, \PMa UISM _QVM[ \PI\ IZM I]\PMV\QKITly mountain-style. Grown using the pergola Trentino method, the vines for this MüllerThurgau thrive between 500 and 800 meters above sea level. Light notes of sage punctuate a fruity aromatic nose that ranges from peach to golden delicious apple. Persistent sapidity and man-

IOML IKQLQ\a UISM \PQ[ _QVM MTMOIV\ IVL XTMI[IV\ _Q\P I UIZSML \MZZQ\Wrial nature.

ÆW_MZ[ \W IXZQKW\ <PM XITI\M Q[ KWUXIK\ \PIVS[ \W UQVMZIT \M`\]ZM \PI\ ZMQVNWZKM[ the fruity sensations.

Veneto

Valdobbiadene Brut Col Credas ’14 | Adami |

L’Altro Manzoni 2014 | Cantine Lavis | Lavis (TN) |

www.la-vis.com Over a thousand determined members of this cooperative preside over the vineaIZL[ WN \PM ,WTWUQ\M[ <PIVS[ \W \PMU this winery is one of the best interpreters of Trentino wines. High-altitude viticulture on the terraces of the Valle di Cembra leads to wines that display fresh, fragrant, brilliant traits in all the winMZa¼[ TIJMT[ 4¼)T\ZW 5IVbWVQ [\Z]KS ][ QV particular. Grown on terrain that is rich in porphyry, its nose ranges from white

33 JANUARY 2016

Vidor (TV) | www.adamispumanti.it For more than 1,000 years, the towers of Credazzo have witnessed the relation[PQX JM\_MMV \PM _WZS WN P]UIVSQVL and these unforgiving hills. Along the Farra di Soligo, the vineyards cling more and more, thrusting their roots into clay soil that gives acidic tension to the wine. The Adami family’s property lies along the woods, with century-old trees alternating with others a few years old, in an unusual, original mosaic. They turn out a Valdobbiadene

COVER STORY

_Q\P IV I][\MZM XZWÅTM \MV]W][ IZWUI[ and great expressive force on the palate.

Alto Adige Alto Adige Valle Isarco Sylvaner Alte Reben ’14 | Pacherhof - Andreas Huber|

Varna/Vahrn (BZ) | www.pacherhof.com The Isarco valley threads its narrow way north, surrounded by steep slopes, closed QV Ja ZWKS[ IVL ^QVMaIZL[ \PI\ [MMU \W cling to the mountain walls. The Huber family is among the pioneers of viticulture in this zone, and the Sylvaner Alte Reben is their top product. The vine-

yard, at more than 600 meters above sea level, is on soil rich in sand and gravel. More than forty years old, its grapes give a white with deep, articulated aromas that lead into a rich and savory palate of great length.

Alto Adige Valle Isarco Grüner Veltliner ’13 | Garlider Christian Kerschbaumer |

Velturno/Feldthurns (BZ) | www.garlider.it Christian Kerschbaumer is one of the most talented winegrowers in the Bolzano province. His vineyard covers a handful of hectares at altitudes that lie between 550 and 800 meters. Production is dedicated almost entirely to whiteberried grapes, especially the precious grüner veltliner, the originally Austrian

34 JANUARY 2016

variety that has found an important habitat in Valle Isarco. The vineyards, oriented south and southeast with slopes that can exceed 55%, allow this white to express depth and sulphur sensations on the nose. Solid and assertive in the mouth.

Tuscany Ansonaco del Giglio 2013 Altura | Francesco Carfagna |

Isola del Giglio (GR) | loc. Mulinaccio | altura@arcobalena.net Francesco Carfagna’s vineyards grow JM\_MMV XZQKSTa XMIZ[ [MI IQZ IVL _QVL His winery, Altura, extends for four hectares, prevalently dedicated to ansonaco, the white grape of the island of Giglio. Steep, arduous vineyards, vines set among the surrounding Mediterranean brush, ad alberello, bush-trained culti^I\QWV <PM PIZL _WZS WN ZM[\WZQVO \PM vines led Francesco to an intense, golden wine, with chromatic complexity that

comes not from maceration but from \PM KWTWZ WN \PM OZIXM[SQV )ZWUI[ IZM I tribute to the island of Giglio: fragrances of mastic tree, myrtle, ripe plum, broom and mint.

sea comes Faro della Guardia, monovarietal biancolella with a marine character and a sweetly fruity nose that in the mouth reveals its a s s e r t i ve, savory, and volcanic nature.

Lazio Biancolella Faro della Guardia 2014 | Casale del Giglio | Latina |

loc. Le Ferriere | www.casaledelgiglio.it Certainly the province of Latina, the headquarters of Casale del Giglio, LWM[V¼\ [MMU I TQSMTa KIVLQLI\M NWZ M`treme viticulture. But the purchase of an historic winery on the island of Ponza, to vinify the biancolella variety of the surrounding vineyards, brought this Lazio ÅZU QV\W \PM KQZKTM WN PMZWQK ^Q\QK]T\]ZM From the small island in the Tyrrhenian

Campania Ischia Biancolella Tenuta Frassitelli 2014 | D’Ambra Vini d’Ischia |

Ischia -Forio (NA) | www.dambravini.com The heroic viticulture label doesn’t only UMIV ÅOP\QVO _Q\P \PM PIZ[PVM[[ WN \PM \MZZIQV M^MZa LIa 8IZ\ WN \PM _WZS TQM[ QV [MMSQVO \W ZMKW^MZ I XI[\ WN QVLQOMVW][ OZIXM[ \PI\ ZQ[S M`\QVK\QWV ,¼)UJZI I grower active since 1888, besides cultivating vineyards on terraces with slopes

that even exceed 60%, in 1995 launched an experimental plot to try restoring Ischia’s indigenous patrimony, grapes such as guarnaccia and guarnaccello, coda cavallo, streppa rossa and many others. Tenuta Frassitelli ’14, the winery ÆIOJMIZMZ Q[ I KZ] WN JQIVKWTMTTI \PI\ displays brilliant fruit and an unmis\ISIJTM [ITQVM nature. It offers a fresh citrus fruit tone and a palate that is still a little rigid but rich in energy and acidic thrust.

Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco Fiorduva 2014 | Marisa Cuomo | Furore (SA) |

www.marisacuomo.com .]ZWZM Q[ I U]VQKQXITQ\a WV \PM )UITÅ Coast that lies above the sea on a hill created by the Schiato river. Here, [\Z]OOTQVO _Q\P \PM ZWKS[ IZM XTW\[ where rare varieties grow, such as fenile, ripoli, pepella, tintore or sciascino-

AN INDISPENSABLE TOOL FOR FOODIES BUT EVEN MORE SO FOR INDUSTRY INSIDERS PROMOTING THE BEST OF MADE-IN-ITALY WORLDWIDE

www.gamberorosso.it

COVER STORY

so. The wines manage to embody and present in the glass energy and character that are exquisitely Mediterranean. If \PM _QVM[ WN \PM )UITÅ +WI[\ IZM SVW_V to the world, it’s due to the constant _WZS WN 5IZQ[I +]WUW IVL )VLZMI Ferraioli, who today are helped by their children Raffaele and Dora. Fiorduva ¼ PI[ IZWUI[ WN aMTTW_ ÆW_MZ[ IVL WZIVOM XMMT ?M KWVÅZU \PM [MV[I\QWV[ _M had during the tastings for our guide, in which we noted a wine that was more agile than in other versions, characterized by a long and fresh ÅVQ[P WV \WVM[ of toasted almond and anise.

Sicily Etna Bianco Superiore 2014 | Barone di Villagrande |

Milo (CT) | www.villagrande.it Among the historic producers of the Etna zone, one of the few who were not ruined by phylloxera and the economic crisis between the two world wars, Carlo Nicolosi Asmundo is the heir of a business founded by his ancestors in Milo in 1727. He was behind the establishment of Etna deVWUQVI\QWV ZMO]TI\QWV[ QV ! \PM ÅZ[\ concrete act in the rebirth of viticulture around the volcano. His son Marco heads the winery today and has invested heavily both in vineyard and cellars, with the objective of

36 JANUARY 2016

producing more technically up-to-date wines, tied to both territory and tradition. Etna Bianco Superiore ’14, made from \PM KIZZQKIV\M OZIXM Q[ UQVMZIT IVL ÆWZIT on the nose, savory, vibrant and persistent on the palate.

Malvasia delle Lipari Passito 2013 | Caravaglio |

Salina - Malfa (ME) | caravagliovini@virgilio.it The profoundly agricultural soul of the Island of Salina reveals itself in Antonino Cara^IOTQW¼[ _WZS QV his wines as well as his cultivation of capers. An agronomist from a family of farmers, Nino dedicates himself to

Malvasia and Passito. He has eighteen hectares of vineyards at Lingua, Malfa and Valdichiesa, and more than two hectares in Lipari. Corinto nero is almost a relic, a variety which has always been in the dried grape wines of the Aeolian islands. The grape grows near the sea and up to 400 meters above it, a seesaw of altitudes that means harvesting at different times. The wine shows this in the glass, never composed or too sweet, but taut and mineral. Classic notes of honey, apricots, citrus fruit zest, but also cut grass and saline tones.

Passito di Pantelleria 2010 | Ferrandes | Pantelleria (TP) |

www.passitodipantelleria ferrandes.com 1V =6-;+7 NWZ \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM QV its history, added an agricultural practice of viticulture to its prestigious intangible cultural heritage of humanity roster. The honor fell to the head-trained bush vines

IL ITJMZMTTW \PI\ OQ^M TQNM \W [WUM WN \PM most prestigious sweet wines of Italy. Ferrandes grows almost two hectares, subdivided into different plots, on sandy soil prepared in the classic dug-out hollows that protect the vines from the marine winds. The resulting dried-grape wine, besides the usual notes of candied yellow fruit and raisins, preserves a fresh, savory note that renders it complex and intriguing.

Sardinia Cannonau di Sardegna Franzisca Riserva 2012 | Giovanni Montisci | Mamoiada (NU) |

37 JANUARY 2016

www. barrosu. it In the ÅZ[\ XIZ\ of his life, Giovanni Montisci was a mechanic, but fortunately, later on he fell passionately in love with winegrowing. After about 15 years of studying the secrets of vineyards and cellars jealously guarded by old grapegrowers, in 2004 he began \W JW\\TM PQ[ ÅZ[\ WNÅKQIT _QVM 1V 5Imoiada, from Cannonau ad alberello vineyards over 80 years old, the winery UISM[ I NM_ JW\\TM[ WN I ZMUIZSIJTM ZML The nose of plum, myrtle and resin expresses its origin in barbaricina grapes, while the palate is characterized by the [_MM\VM[[ WN \IVVQV[ IVL UW]\P ÅTTQVO alcohol.

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

by Francesco Beghi and Lorenzo Ruggeri

berebene

Lombardy

40 JANUARY 2016

The picture that emerged from our wine tastings is varied, complex and above all rich in affordable labels. The Oltrepò Pavese zone reveals the many souls of its extended terroir: Riesling and Bonarda lead the wines of this fragmented and divided territory, but it seems that Pinot Nero Metodo Classico has also helped the reOQWV ÅVL I KWUUWV QLMV\Q\a IVL XW\MV\QIT ]Vexpressed for too long. The Lugana DOC zone has given us interesting wines, and in previous editions we recognized notable improvements, thanks to technical and agricultural developments sought by producers in recent years. The wine has had international success, above all in Germany. To complete the regional picture, we have to include mention of the Mantuan area, _Q\P 4IUJZ][KW [\QTT Q\[ ÆIO JMIZMZ

41 JANUARY 2016

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

LUGANA ’14 Bertagna

OP BONARDA VIVACE LA PECCATRICE ’14 Bisi

CAVRAGNA (MN) - WWW.CANTINABERTAGNA.IT

SAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.AZIENDAGRICOLABISI.IT

8.20 euros Gianfranco Bertagna, the latest of four generations of grapegrowers, is at the head of the family winery on the moraine hills of Garda, between the lake, Solferino and Castellaro Lagusello, an area recognized as a Unesco World Heritage site. Year after year, he proves to be one of the best producers among those in this far edge of the province of Mantua. His Lugana is a golden-colored wine with good rhythm, notes of citrus and tropical fruit, elegance and a fine finish.

6.00 euros In a vintage year that was difficult for croatina grapes to reach maturity, Claudio Bisi managed to produce a Bonarda that, although a little less meaty than usual, still holds to the stylistic canons of its maker: dry, precise, impenetrably dark color, well-evolved tannin without vegetal notes, intense tones of berries and a fine, almondy finish characteristic of the type.

IL BARDUGHINO ’14 Alessio Brandolini

BRERA ’14 Tenuta Il Bosco

SAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.ALESSIOBRANDOLINI.COM

ZENEVREDO (PV) – WWW.ILBOSCO.IT 8.20 euros The Oltrepò property of the Zonin family, under the direction of Piernicola Olmo, produces bottles that are not only technically exemplary, but also have interesting personalities. This Brera is a monovarietal Riesling with a seductive color and youthful aromas of sage, thyme and Mediterranean shrubland. A fine, savory and mineral finish.

6.40 euros We are once again recommending this dry Malvasia because it is a truly interesting wine at a very affordable price. The range of aromas is, as usual, very broad, since this is an aromatic variety. Fragrances go from citrus fruit to lychees, from passion fruit to kiwis, but without excess, with balance and a well-judged acidic vein in the mouth. Good substance, a wine to enjoy to the last drop.

42 JANUARY 2016

LUGANA I FRATI ’14 Ca’ dei Frati

OP BONARDA IL SOFFIO ’13 Alessio Brandolini

SIRMIONE (BS) – WWW.CADEIFRATI.IT

SAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.ALESSIOBRANDOLINI.COM

9.70 euros If Lugana is one of the most desirable whites on the international market, a great deal of credit goes to Igino, Gian Franco and Anna Maria Dal Cero. Their vineyard crosses the borders of Lombardy to extend into Valpolicella (Veneto) and their production is voluminous in terms of numbers, but limited in labels. Exemplary price/quality rapport for Lugana I Frati, which, being the child of a vintage year like 2014, is nervous and energetic.

6.40 euros Alessio Brandolini is a young man from the Oltrepò zone who releases very well-made wines at extremely friendly prices, all closely reflecting their home territory. As in other years, we recommend Il Soffio ’13, a still, assertive Bonarda, not wood-aged, with typical floral notes and dark berry aromas. Tannin is not aggressive, good structure, a fairly deep finish on classic notes of almond.

OP RIESLING BRINÀ ’14 Ca’ del Gè

OP ROSSO BORGHESA ’14 Ca’ Tessitori

8.40 euros The Padroggi family winery has always been successful in their vinification of riesling italico (such as this one) and Rhine riesling. Montalto Pavese is at the end of a strip of hills characterized by chalky soil, in the center of the Oltrepò zone. Brinà ’14 has characteristic floral notes, accompanied by notes of bay leaf and white-fleshed fruit. Substantial and pleasing in the mouth, it has a good acidic vein.

8.40 euros The winery led by Luigi Giorgi with the help of his sons, Giovanni and Francesco, grows year after year, improving and perfecting its production. Rossa Borghesa is a company classic: a fragrant and easy to drink wine made from barbera, croatina and pinot nero grapes. With aromas of red berries, violets and citrus fruit, it is balanced and satisfyingly vigorous.

MONTALTO PAVESE (PV) – WWW.CADELGE.IT

BRONI (PV) – WWW.CATESSITORI.IT

43 JANUARY 2016

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

OP RIESLING ’14 Calatroni

VERDE LUNA ’14 Caminella

MONTECALVO VERSIGGIA (PV) WWW.CALATRONIVINI.IT

CENATE SOTTO (BG) – WWW.CAMINELLA.IT 9.70 euros We are in the heart of Val Calepio, a few kilometers north of Bergamo. The Caminella facilities where all phases of vinification take place, are completely underground. Verde Luna ’14 is always good and well made. It is a very pleasant and satisfying chardonnay with marked aromas of tropical fruit and lively citrus notes.

8.40 euros Christian and Stefano Calatroni are two talented young men who release a range of interesting wines at absolutely competitive prices. This monovarietal Riesling particularly struck us, along with older bottles for those who love more evolved Rieslings. In this 2014, notes of chamomile, aromatic herbs and yellow-fleshed fruit dominate, with a praiseworthy acidic component and solid structure.

MIMÌ ’14 Citari

LAMBRUSCO MANTOVANO IL LAMBRUSCO ’14 CorteSole

DESENZANO DEL GARDA (BS) – WWW.CITARI.IT

MOTTA BALUFFI (CR) – WWW.CORTESOLE.IT

8.40 euros The Gettuli family divides its attention between the zone of Lugana and San Martino della Battaglia, just south of Benaco. The winery, created by Francesco in 1975, today is run by his daughter Giovanna and her husband Ugo Mascini, helped by their children Maria, Giovanna and Francesco. The Mimi ’14, made from trebbiano di Lugana with a small amount of chardonnay added, is elegant, savory and sells at a friendly price.

5.00 euros CorteSole is a brand name that belongs to Vinicola Decordi, an estate founded by Quirico Decordi around 1937. The firm today is headed by his grandson Alessandro and is deeply committed to sustainability and respect for the environment. Lambrusco Mantovano presents fresh and fragrant berry notes on the nose. In the mouth, typical vivacity and an honest, easyto-drink profile make it a good match for typical fried dough puffs (gnocco fritto) and local cured meats.

44 JANUARY 2016

LUGANA PIEVECROCE ’14 Costaripa

OP SANGUE DI GIUDA LELLA ’14 Fiamberti

9.90 euros Mattia Vezzola runs his winery in the Valtenesi zone with passion. This area rises from Desenzano del Garda to Salò, alternating hills and plateaus on its way. Even though his efforts are concentrated largely on showcasing Chiaretto and the groppello grape, we want to point out his excellent Lugana, fragrant and inviting with its tones of ripe pear, deliciously full body and moderate intensity.

9.40 euros The Fiamberti family has a long grape-growing history in Canneto Pavese, an area suited above all for full-bodied reds, where croatina and barbera find ideal terrain on slopes that are often very steep. Ambrogio and his son Giulio, in a difficult vintage year, were capable of selecting the grapes to produce a Sangue di Giuda with good body and fragrance, characteristic aromas of berries and wellbalanced sweetness.

CANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.FIAMBERTIVINI.IT

MONIGA DEL GARDA (BS) WWW.COSTARIPA.IT

OP RIESLING GLI ORTI ’13 Frecciarossa

VIGÀLON ’14 F.lli Giorgi

CASTEGGIO (PV) - WWW.FRECCIAROSSA.COM

CANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.GIORGI-WINES.IT

8.90 euros Since the Odero family winery decided to postpone the release of this 100% Riesling wine until a year after its harvest, we can appreciate more deeply the characteristics of the variety and the care taken in its vinification. It still maintains its primary floral and balsamic notes, but typically mineral Riesling tones begin to emerge. This is all in a truly noteworthy context of sapidity and elegance.

6.90 euros The Giorgio family’s estate releases an endless list of labels, which Fabiano and his father Antonio add to every year. Vigalòn, however, a classic Oltrepò barbera/croatina/uva rara blend with fermentation and a brief stay in barrique, is a classic label. In some years, such as this one, it expresses a wonderfully sincere and juicy fruit that always pleases.

45 JANUARY 2016

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

OP RIESLING RENANO V. MARTINA ’14 Isimbarda

CAPRIANO DEL COLLE MARZEMINO BERZAMÌ ’14 Lazzari

8.40 euros Vigna Martina is an excellent Oltrepò Riesling that expresses, now when it’s young, enjoyable floral aromas and fresh notes of yellow-fleshed fruit, but that’s only the first part of its life. In fact, this wine, as we have often verified during numerous vertical tastings, is able to evolve in an exemplary manner, gradually expressing the typical mineral and petrol tones of the variety.

10.00 euros A little denomination in the Brescia province, this winery is attentive to its environmental impact: all necessary energy comes from solar panels, and transition to organic agriculture is in the works. The wine is notably pleasant. On the slopes of Monte Netto, marzemino is the most common grape, and it is vinified as a monovarietal in this Berzami, with its fragrant and persistent notes of berries and black pepper.

SANTA GIULETTA (PV) WWW.TENUTAISIMBARDA.IT

CAPRIANO DEL COLLE (BS) WWW.LAZZARIVINI.IT

LAMBRUSCO MANTOVANO ROSSO DEI CONCARI ’14 Cantine Lebovitz

OP SAUVIGNON BERTÈ & CORDINI MASARIA ’14 Francesco Montagna

RONCOFERRARO (MN) WWW.CANTINELEBOVITZ.IT

BRONI (PV) - WWW.CANTINEMONTAGNA.IT

8.60 euros Matteo Bertè is an able young man. He took charge of the family’s winemaking and is working well with a wide range of wines that go from metodo classico spumante labels to young reds, and include whites such as this Sauvignon. It presents a generous bouquet of marked aromas typical of the variety, and is fragrant and well sustained by its acidic backbone.

5.90 euros An historic winery in the province of Mantua, it is located right where the Mincio River joins the Po. Rosso dei Concari is its most significant wine, made from lambrusco viadanese, Maestri and Marani grapes. Impenetrable color, violet mousse, intense aromas of violets, raspberry, plum. Good structure and vivacity in the mouth, seductive, well-balanced and complex.

46 JANUARY 2016

VALTÈNESI IL CHIARETTO ’14 Pasini – San Giovanni

OP RIESLING VIGN. DEL POZZO ’14 Piccolo Bacco dei Quaroni

10.00 euros More and more interesting wines are coming from this splendid and still little-known zone of the Garda Bresciano. One example is this Chiaretto from the estate run by Giuseppe Pasini and his son Maurizio. Beautiful color resembling onion skin. The nose opens on floral tones and then shows classic berry notes and a hint of yellow peach, all in an elegant manner. Fresh and pleasant in the mouth, it is well-sustained on the finish.

5.90 euros Laura Brazzoli and Mario Cavalli are devoted to their little organic winery and its agriturismo. The wines have personality, like their Cruasé, a dosage zero version in contrast with most of its type, and much softer. This Riesling, which we have mentioned in the past, is honest, savory and mineral, with up-front aromas of yellow fruit.

MONTÙ BECCARIA (PV) WWW.PICCOLOBACCODEIQUARONI.IT

PUEGNAGO SUL GARDA (BS) WWW.PASINIPRODUTTORI.IT

vigneto del pozzo riesling

PICCOLO BACCO DEI QUARONI

OP BARBERA V. POGGIO ANNA ’12 Francesco Quaquarini

GRAN ROSSO DEL VICARIATO §DI QUISTELLO ’14 Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di Quistello

CANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.QUAQUARINIFRANCESCO.IT

QUISTELLO (MN) WWW.CANTINASOCIALEQUISTELLO.IT

10.00 euros In Oltrepò Pavese you can even run into surprises like this Barbera ’12 – evolved, rich, tasty with ripe fruit, full, solidly structured, and with straightforward aromas, appealing tertiary notes and backbone. A truly wonderful wine for important dishes, sold at an extremely competitive price.

5.90 euros This sparkling wine is never disappointing. It is an historic product of the Cantina di Quistello, a blend of lambrusco Ruberi and ancellotta, refermented in the bottle, and always greatly satisfying on nose and palate. The ruby color is meaty, substantial, and has generous aromas ranging from violets to blueberries, from currants to white chocolate. Flavor is deep and leaves a pleasant almondy aftertaste.

47 JANUARY 2016

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

GARDA CL. GROPPELLO ’14 Le Sincette

OP RIESLING MOGLIALUNGA ’14 Pietro Torti

7.60 euros Ruggero Brunori, with the help of Andrea Salvetti, releases a fine range of wines obtained from his eleven hectares of vineyard. The winery has been certified biodynamic for some years, but the path to reach that goal began in the mid 1990s. In an array of territorial wines, a very interesting Groppello stand out, many-faceted and with brilliant fruity and floral traits. Dynamic and rhythmic, it displays both softness and fresh acidity.

8.40 euros Sandro Torti, the son of Pietro whose name is still on the winery in Montecalvo Versiggia, is a capable artisan who runs the family business almost on his own. We have often mentioned his Bonarda, which is always among the most appealing in the territory. This year we spotlight his Riesling Moglialunga ’14, a fragrant riesling italico with aromas of flowers and white-fleshed fruit, displaying fine elegance and freshness on the palate.

OP BONARDA VIVACE ’14 Vanzini

OP BONARDA VIVACE POSSESSIONE DI VERGOMBERA ’14 Bruno Verdi

POLPENAZZE DEL GARDA (BS) WWW.LESINCETTE.IT

MONTECALVO VERSIGGIA (PV) WWW.PIETROTORTI.IT

SAN DAMIANO AL COLLE (PV) WWW.VANZINI-WINE.COM

CANNETO PAVESE (PV) WWW.BRUNOVERDI.IT

9.20 euros The Vanzini family winery’s range of authentic, well-made wines is tightly connected to the territory. The catalog includes excellent spumanti Martinotti Extra Dry as well as sparkling sweet wines such as Moscato and Sangue di Giuda. The house classic is Bonarda Vivace, which as always is true to its type, with a brilliant beautiful ruby color and aromas of violets, strawberries, raspberries and a lovely almond finish.

8.20 euros The range of wines offered by Paolo Verdi is wide and varied, as Oltrepò tradition demands. All are noteworthy, from whites to reds and spumanti. His Bonarda Vivace Possessione di Vergombera ’14 is clean, lively, has a wonderful mousse and brilliant color. Fruit is beautifully clear, with typical aromas of berries and violets, along with balsamic notes. A great pleasure.

48 JANUARY 2016

OLIVE OIL

by Stefano Polacchi

EARLY EXTRAVERGINE… OLIVE OIL AT ITS BEST The trend is gaining strength: early harvest. These are now the key words for those who aim for quality in the world of extra-virgin olive oil. Even Spain, where large quantities and low prices were a winning game, is undergoing change. <PMZM IZM VW Å`ML Z]TM[ 1\¼[ [IQL" PIZ^M[\ WTQ^M[ _PMV \PMa PI^M KPIVOML KWTWZ _PMV \PMa PI^M LIZSMVML IVL IZM ZQXM *]\ _PMV' 0W_ LIZS [PW]TL \PMa JM' 7VM VW\QWV Q[ \PI\ WN \PM WTQ^M[ [PW]TL PI^M KPIVOML KWTWZ *]\ _PI\ LWM[ \PI\ UMIV' ,Q[K][[QWV[ IJW]\ \PM XZWXMZ \QUM NWZ WTQ^M PIZ^M[\QVO IZM MVLTM[[ IVL WXQVQWV[ IZM ^MZa LQNNMZMV\ 8WTQKQM[ ^IZa NZWU OZW_MZ \W OZW_MZ NZWU ZMOQWV \W ZMOQWV NZWU JW\\TMZ \W JW\\TMZ <PMZM IZM WTQ^M WQT UQTT[ \PI\ WXMV I\ \PM MVL WN ;MX\MUJMZ IVL W\PMZ[ \PI\ LWV¼\ N]VK\QWV ]V\QT 7K\WJMZ *]\ WVM \PQVO Q[ []ZM ¹-IZTa PIZ^M[\QVO Q[ I OZW_-

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50 JANUARY 2016

TMI[\ \PZMM _MMS[ MIZTQMZ \PIV \ZILQ\QWV LQK\I\M[ º <PM ÅZ[\ M`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT[ _M \I[\ML ITT UILM _Q\P ÅZ[\ XZM[[QVO[ IZW]VL \PM MVL WN ;MX\MUJMZ IVL \PM JMOQVVQVO WN 7K\WJMZ \MTT \PM [\WZa )ZWUI[ IZM XW_MZN]T ITWVO _Q\P [MV[I\QWV[ WN JQ\\MZVM[[ IVL XMXXMZQVM[[ )TT \PM KPIZIK\MZQ[\QK[ WN \PM QVLQ^QL]IT K]T\Q^IZ[ IZM ÅZUTa LMÅVML )T\PW]OP [WUM\QUM[ _Q\P UWVWK]T\Q^IZ WQT[ \PM ZM[]T\[ KIV NMMT M`KM[[Q^M QV WQT[ []KP I[ \PW[M UILM Ja <WZZM\\I I JTMVL \PM MIZTa PIZ^M[\ MNNMK\ Q[ KTMIZ" PIZUWVa IVL KPIZIK\MZ IZM N]TTa M`XZM[[ML ¹<PM XZQUIZa WJRMK\Q^M Q[ \W I^WQL

\ZMI\UMV\[ NWZ WTQ^M NZ]Q\ ร a QV I aMIZ _PMV \PM ร a PI[ TMN\ ][ QV XMIKM ยบ [Ia[ 5IZQI 8ZW^MVbI W_VMZ WN <WZZM\\I QV *I\\QXIOTQI VMIZ ;ITMZVW ยน*]\ \PM OWIT Q[ IT[W \W PI^M \PM WTQ^M[ M`XZM[[ ITT \PMQZ XW\MV\QIT 1 XIa XIZ\QK]TIZ I\\MV\QWV \W [PW_KI[QVO \PM LQNNMZMV\ K]T\Q^IZ[ 1N 1 PIZ^M[\ ZW\WVLMTTI WV 7K\WJMZ 1 OM\ I KWUXTM\MTa LQNNMZMV\ WQT KWUXIZML \W _PI\ 1 OM\ QN 1 PIZ^M[\ MIZTQMZ 1 JMOIV \PM PIZ^M[\ WV ;MX\MUJMZ IVL _MV\ IPMIL ]V\QT UQL 7K\WJMZ :W\WVLMTTI Q[ [WUM\PQVO [XMKQIT 1\ Q[ \PM K]T\Q^IZ WN Ua PMIZ\ IVL Q\ Q[ TI\M UI\]ZQVO 1\ ZQXMV[ UWZM [TW_Ta 1 PIZ^M[\ IJW]\ MIZTa IVL \PM ZM[\ 1 XQKS JM\_MMV 7K\WJMZ IVL <PQ[ aMIZ \PM \ZMM[ IZM TILMV _Q\P NZ]Q\ <PMa IZM JMI]\QN]T <PM MIZTa XZM[[QVO WN ZW\WVLMTTI OWM[ QV\W Ua ,QM[Q[ I JTMVL WN KIZXMTTM[M IVL NZIV\WQW <PMa IZM \_W [QUQTIZ WTQ^M[ J]\ \PM ร Z[\ WVM Q[ I TQ\\TM UWZM

NZIOZIV\ 1 ILL ZW\WVLMTTI \W \PI\ UQ` ยบ 5IZQI 8ZW^MVbI Q[ QV IK\QWV _PMV _M UMM\ PMZ J][a QV PMZ UQTT JM\_MMV KZI\M[ WN WTQ^M[ IVL \PM MUMZOQVO ร W_ WN OZMMV OWTL ยน<PM IZWUI[ \PI\ XMZ^ILM \PM UQTT QV \PQ[ UWUMV\ IZM M`\ZIWZLQVIZa ยบ [PM KWUUMV\[ ยน)\ \PM JMOQVVQVO WN XZWL]K\QWV _M PIL [WUM XZWJTMU[ _Q\P PMI\ IVL _M _WZSML PIZL \W SMMX \MUXMZI\]ZM[ TW_ \W XZW\MK\ \PM WTQ^M[ J]\ ITT QV ITT Q\ _MV\ _MTT 4I[\ aMIZ JM[QLM[ ITT \PM XZWJTMU[ _Q\P \PM PIZ^M[\ QV UQL 7K\WJMZ QV MIZTa UWZVQVO \PM \MUXMZI\]ZM _I[ IJW]\ ย + ย . <PQ[ aMIZ Q\ยผ[ IJW]\ ย ย ยบ .ZWU +IUXIVQI _M _MV\ \W +IVQVW QV 4IbQW I bWVM KITTML <][KQI >Q\MZJM[M LMMXTa \QML \W WTQ^M WQT 0MZM \WW \PM UW[\ KWUUQ\\ML XZWL]KMZ[ JMOIV PIZ^M[\ I\ \PM MVL WN \PM []UUMZ ยน-IZTa PIZ^M[\QVO _I[ I ZM^WT]\QWV QV \PM WTQ^M WQT _WZTL ยบ [Ia[ TWKIT TMILMZ 4I]ZI

51 JANUARY 2016

Ismea. The rebirth of Italyโ s groves .ZWU \PM \WV[ WN TI[\ aMIZ XZWL]K\QWV QV [PW]TL ZMIKP \WV[ <PI\ยผ[ I QVKZMI[M IT\PW]OP [\QTT \WV[ TM[[ \PIV QV 1;5-) LM[KZQJM[ I PIZ^M[\ _Q\PW]\ \ZMM PMIT\P XZWJTMU[ IV M`KMTTMV\ [Q\]I\QWV JW\P NWZ Y]ITQ\a IVL Y]IV\Q\a 0W_M^MZ \PM M`KM[[Q^M PMI\ WN 2]Ta IVL \PM TIKS WN ZIQV UMIV \PI\ XZWL]K\QWV _QTT VW\ JM I\ Q\[ UI`QU]U

OLIVE OIL

,M 8IZZQ 0MZ ÅZU +MZZW[]OPMZW Q[ I UWLMT WN WTQ^M WQT Y]ITQ\a QV 4IbQW ¹1\ OI^M ][ IZWUI[ NZ]Q\a IVL JQ\\MZ \PI\ _M PIL VM^MZ PIL JMNWZM º ?PI\ [PM [IQL ZM[MUJTML \PM \ITS IJW]\ _QVM NZWU aMIZ[ IOW _PMV [WUM KITTML _MTT UILM _QVM »\IUXMZML _Q\P¼ IVL TI]LML »XMI[IV\ _QVM¼ _PQKP _I[ TIZOMTa ]VLZQVSIJTM -`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT PI[ VM^MZ JMMV I[ OWWL I[ Q\ Q[ QV \PQ[ PQ[\WZQKIT XMZQWL )T\PW]OP UWZM KWV[]UMZ[ IZM JMOQVVQVO \W ZMITQbM \PQ[ Q\¼[ \ISQVO I _PQTM NWZ \PM QLMI \W OZIJ \PM UI[[M[ ¹<PMZM IZM MV\P][QI[\[ IVL M`XMZ\[ \PI\ QV[Q[\ WV _MTT UILM WQT[ _Q\P KPIZIK\MZ IVL IZWUI[ _PMZM aW] KIV [MV[M JW\P JQ\\MZ IVL XMXXMZa VW\M[ *]\ Q\¼[ IT[W \Z]M \PI\ UIVa KWV[]UMZ _IV\ [_MM\MZ TM[[ [\ZWVO WQT ;W _M OW IPMIL PIZ^M[\QVO ]V\QT UQL 6W^MUJMZ KIZMN]TTa KPWW[QVO _PI\ IVL _PMZM \W XQKS [W \PI\ \PM[M KTQMV\[ KIV IT[W PI^M \PM WQT \PMa TQSM *]\ Q\¼[ KTMIZ \PI\ 1 [QVKM 1 PI^M QUXWZ\MZ[ IJZWIL _PW TWWS I\ \PM ZM[]T\[ WN KWUXM\Q\QWV[ IVL O]QLM JWWS [KWZM[ PI^M \W IT[W UISM M`\ZI ^QZOQV WQT[ \PI\

[\IVL W]\ IVL _QV XZQbM[ º ?M IT[W [XWSM IJW]\ \PM MKWVWUQK[ WN WTQ^M PIZ^M[\QVO <PW[M _PW XZWUW\M TI\M PIZ^M[\QVO INÅZU \PI\ \W PI^M MVW]OP WTQ^M[ \W UISM I XZWÅ\ \PM NZ]Q\ PI[ \W JM XZWXMZTa ZQXM 7\PMZ_Q[M \PM aQMTL Q[ ^MZa TW_ 4QSM ITT \Z]\P[ \PW]OP \PQ[ Q[ WVTa PITN WN Q\ ,M 8IZZQ M`XTIQV[ º1\¼[ \Z]M \PI\ aQMTL Q[ TW_MZ J]\ aW] KIV OI\PMZ UWZM WTQ^M[ MIZTa WV 0IZ^M[\QVO TI\M UIVa IZM ITZMILa WV \PM OZW]VL 1N _M OW W]\ QV 6W^MUJMZ PITN \PM PIZ^M[\ PI[ NITTMV NZWU \PM \ZMM[ IVL KIVVW\ JM ][ML NWZ IV M`\ZI ^QZOQV WQT º <PM MKWVWUQ[\ WN 1;5-) <QbQIVI ;IZVIZQ XWQV\[ W]\ I \ZMVLQVO QVKZMI[M QV \PM _PWTM[ITM XZQKM ¹+MZ\IQVTa TI[\ aMIZ ITT XZWL]KQVO KW]V\ZQM[ [I_ _PWTM[ITM XZQKM[ OWQVO ]X M[XMKQITTa 1\ITa 6W_ \PI\ XZWL]K\QWV NWZMKI[\[ IZM UWZM WX\QUQ[\QK XZQKM[ IZM JMOQVVQVO \W [M\\TM LW_V *]\ Q\ Q[ \Z]M \PI\ _M PI^MV¼\ [MMV \PM[M XZQKM[ [QVKM 1V ;XIQV J]TS WQT Q[ W^MZ NW]Z M]ZW[ º Indra Galbo and Giulio Scatolini collaborated

52 JANUARY 2016

Early harvest extravirgin olive oil COSMO DI RUSSO | CAIETA MONOCULTIVAR ITRANA | GAETA (LT) | WWW.OLIVADIGAETA.IT <PQ[ ÅZ[\ \I[\M WN UWVW^IZQM\IT Q\ZIVI [PW_ML ][ _PI\ \PM +WTTQVM 8WV\QVM bWVM KIV LW \PQ[ aMIZ <PM VW[M LQ[XTIa[ MTMOIV\ IVL KTMIZ VW\M[ WN OZMMV \WUI\W IZ]O]TI IVL OZMMV IXXTM 7V \PM XITI\M I JQ\\MZ \WVM W^MZZQLM[ \PM XMXXMZ TW[QVO VW\PQVO QV KWUXTM`Q\a \PW]OP TORRETTA | DIESIS | BATTIPAGLIA (SA) | WWW.OLIOTORRETTA.COM ) [\]VVQVO XZM^QM_ ) XTMI[IV\ _MI^M WN IXXTM ^ITMZQIV \WUI\W IVL XQVM V]\[ KPIZIK\MZQbML \PM WTNIK\WZa XZWÅTM WN \PQ[ M`\ZI ^QZOQV 7V \PM XITI\M I ^MOM\IT VW\M XZM^IQT[ TMI^QVO I XTMI[IV\ JQ\\MZVM[[ WV \PM ÅVQ[P )V M`\ZMUMTa IXXMITQVO ^MZ[I\QTM IVL JITIVKML WQT

TREVI IL FRANTOIO | OLIO FLAMINIO | TREVI (PG) | WWW.OLIOFLAMINIO.IT <PM ÅZ[\ WQT NZWU \PQ[ PIVL[WUM KWWXMZI\Q^M Q[ VW\IJTM NWZ \PM [XQKa VW\M[ \PI\ []OOM[\ _PQ\M XMXXMZ K]\ OZI[[ IVL OZMMV \MI <PM \I[\M XZWÅTM Q[ NIQ\PN]T \W \PM VW[M ILLQVO \WUI\W IVL I XTMI[IV\ [MV[I\QWV WN ITUWVL WV \PM ÅVQ[P *ITIVKML IVL KWUXTM` GIULIO MANNELLI | MONOCULTIVAR MORAIOLO | BETTONA (PG) | WWW.AGRARIAMANNELLI.IT 1\¼[ Y]Q\M UW^QVO \W \I[\M \PQ[ NI[KQVI\QVO MIZTa UWZIQWTW 1\ Q[ IV MTMOIV\ IVL KWUXTM` WQT >MOM\IT IVL PMZJIKMW][ VW\M[ IZM NWTTW_ML Ja OZMMV IXXTM \WVM[ 7V \PM XITI\M \PM XW_MZ WN \PM JQ\\MZVM[[ IVL XMXXMZQVM[[ MUMZOM[ [][\IQVML Ja I OWWL JIT[IUQK VW\M MARCO RIZZO | OLIO EXTRAVERGINE DI OLIVA | FELITTO (SA) | WWW.LADRUPAEILTURIONE.IT 1V I XZM^QM_ WN \PMQZ XZWL]K\QWV \PQ[ aW]VO ÅZU VMIZ ;ITMZVW OQ^M[ ][ XTMI[IV\ ^MOM\IT IVL [_MM\ ITUWVL [MV[I\QWV[ /WWL IZWUI\QK KWPMZMVKM IT[W WV \PM XITI\M _PQKP KTW[M[ WV IV I[[MZ\Q^M XMXXMZa VW\M

FRANTOI CUTRERA | FRESCOLIO | CHIARAMONTE GULFI (RG) | WWW.FRANTOICUTRERA.IT ) XZM^ITMV\Ta \WVLI QJTMI JTMVL \PQ[ aMIZ Q\ WNNMZ[ ][ XTMI[IV\ [MV[I\QWV[ WN \WUI\W X]TX [ITIL OZMMV[ IVL JI[QT 4Q\\TM XMXXMZ WZ JQ\\MZVM[[ QV \PM UW]\P J]\ IZWUI\QK \ZIQ\[ XMZNMK\Ta KWPMZMV\ _Q\P Q\[ WTNIK\WZa XZWÅTM CARRAIA BARDI | L’OLIANDOLO | TREQUANDA (SI) <PQ[ WTQ^M WQT KWUM[ NZWU \PM PQTT[ WN <ZMY]IVLI VMIZ ;QMVI IVL XZM^QM_[ \PM XZWL]K\QWV _Q\P I LMTQKI\M IVL MTMOIV\ WQT VW\M_WZ\Pa NWZ Q\[ [WN\ ^MOM\IT VW\M[ NWTTW_ML Ja [MV[I\QWV[ WN IXXTM IVL ITUWVL 7V \PM XITI\M I VW\M WN ZILQ[P IXXMIZ[ IVL ITUWVL ZM\]ZV[ WV \PM KTW[M BACCI NOEMIO | OLIO EXTRAVERGINE DI OLIVA | GUALDO CATTANEO (PG) | WWW.OLIOBACCINOEMIO.IT <PQ[ \I[\QVO IVVW]VKML I ZMJQZ\P IN\MZ I \MZZQJTM aMIZ \PI\ [PWWS XZWL]K\QWV WV \PM +WTTQ 5IZ\IVQ VMIZ 8MZ]OQI <PM WQT PI[ IV QV\ZQO]QVO IZWUI\QK \M`\]ZM _Q\P VW\M[ WN NWZM[\ ÆWWZ KWVQNMZ[ IVL ^MOM\IT [MV[I\QWV[ 7V \PM XITI\M VW\M[ WN KPQKWZa IVL K]\ OZI[[ XZM^IQT

TRAVEL

by Dario Bragaglia

VALTELLINA Terrace above the world 54 JANUARY 2016

CASA VINICOLA MAMETE PREVOSTINI

Two thousand five hundred kilometers of vineyard terraces, a unique landscape, heroic grapegrowing, and the renaissance of traditional mountain flavors, cheeses – Bitto and Casera above all – and cured venison and kid. Pair it all with the valley’s splendid Nebbiolo 55 JANUARY 2016

TRAVEL

”T

he wine moment, during my peasant childhood, was lived with direct participation in the rite. Every year it was repeated and perpetuated, beginning as soon as winter was over, with the preparation of the vineyard, the care of the vines and the soil. Then in spring, the grower’s hands gently penetrated the TMI^M[ _PMZM \PM ÅZ[\ J]VKPM[ _MZM MUMZOing, still tiny newborns.” These are the words of Ermanno Olmi, who LMLQKI\ML \PM ÅTU Rupi del vino, or Wine Cliffs, to heroic viticulture after watching Pierpaolo Di Franco prune his vines in Montagna in Valtellina. Pierpaolo, along with Davide Fasolini, founded the Dirupi winery. Within a few years, without their own vineyard, they won a Tre Bicchieri award. These young men are part of the Valtellina wine renaissance, even though working conditions basically haven’t changed much since the 1960s on the narrow terraces of the sunfacing slope of the valley. That exposure favors the maturation of nebbiolo grapes, the princely variety of Valtellina. Locally it is called chiavennasca, almost as a reminder that local viticulture has centuries of history behind it, not only in the valley that rises from Colico to Morbegno, Sondrio and Tirano, swinging from west to east, but also in the nearby Valchiavenna, that lies south to north towards the Alps that are a barrier to the Canton of Grisons in Switzerland. “There are 2,500 kilometers of terracing, almost a record in a territory that is so small,” pointed out Mamete Prevostini, president of the Valtellina wine consortium. Forty producers in all (although ten wineries account for 90% of production) turn out a total of three and a half million bottles, from IGT to DOCG labels. “The numbers are small, but beyond the economic dimension, the ethical value

THE MOUNTAINS OF VALTELLINA AFTER AN ABUNDANT OCTOBER SNOWFALL AS SEEN ON THE WAY TO GEROLA ALTA, NEAR SONDRIO

BORMIO THE PEARL OF WHITE WINTERS This year, Bormio’s ski season began on November 28. Until April, it will be a very long white winter, hopefully made more romantic by abundant snowfall. New this year is a single ski pass that allow skiing in the three areas of Santa Caterina, Bormio and San Colombano, a total of 155 kilometers of ski runs. A new free bus service will connect the areas. Bormio, the capital of the high valley, is located at over 1,200 meters of altitude. Grapevines can’t grow here, so there’s a long tradition of bitters, grappas and other spirits. One in particular is Braulio. The recipe for this Alpine herb bitter is a well-kept secret, but visitors can tour the cellars under the central Via Roma. One of the characteristics of Braulio is that it is aged in Slavonian oak barrels for a period ranging from two to five years (for Braulio Riserva). In Bagni Vecchi, located towards Passo dello Stelvio and Bagni Nuovi, direction Livigno, are two spas that are among the most dramatic in the world. Visitors can immerse themselves in hot water outdoors in a snowy landscape with breathtaking views. Bagni Vecchi is in a zone of Roman baths that have been known since the first century B.C.E. A lovely walk in the woods leads to Fonte Pliniana, where the hot springs emerge in a cavern. Info: WWW.VALTELLINA.IT | WWW.BORMIO.EU

56 JANUARY 2016

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WINE AND GRAPES MARCO SIMONIT: LONG LIFE TO NEBBIOLO

A RIPE BUNCH OF NEBBIOLO GRAPES FROM THE TENUTA LA GATTA VINEYARDS

of work that contributes to maintain the uniqueness of a landscape also matters,” added Prevostini. A request has been made to include it among the UNESCO heritage sites. Is Valtellina on a par with the vineyards of Porto and the valley of the Douro, or the Lavaux vineyard terraces in Switzerland? The terraces that produce Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Sforzato are such that even the most distracted tourist notices. Driving up the Valtellina towards Saint Moritz, in the direction of Bormio, Livigno or Valchiavenna, the steep vineyards are the calling card for local wine. Certainly, these are transit valleys and have always been so throughout history, contested between the north and south of Europe. Napoleon brought them into the Italian orbit, but before that, they were controlled by Grisons, almost a state on its own in the heart of Europe.

MARCO SIMONIT

There’s one place where the cultural story of this border territory comes clearest. Visit Palazzo Vertemate, a jewel at the gates of Chiavenna. Here the stube made in Nuremberg live alongside Italian Renaissance frescoes. In front of the palazzo is one of Italy’s most beautiful historic vineyards, in the care of the Prevostini winery. It grows riesling and aromatic traminer grapes, which produce about 2,000 bottles of Vertemate, a wine made from grapes that have airdried indoors for four months. Today there’s a way to enjoy the winegrowing Valtellina more slowly. Among the vineyards are marked paths that wind among the terraces, to walk or to bike along. At the center of the La Gatta estate, a splendid property, is a palIKM KWV^MV\ _PQKP JMTWVOML ÅZ[\ \W the Dominicans but has been in the Triacca family for four generations.

57 JANUARY 2016

Marco Simonit and his group of pruners has been busy for over a year consulting with two French Maisons that have written the history of world wine: Château Latour and Moët & Chandon (he has already worked at Château d’Yquem). But he willingly talks about the Valtellina vineyards where he worked a few years ago at several wineries in the territory such as Fay, Rainoldi, Dirupi, Ar.Pe.Pe. “During this project we worked on speKQÅK XQMKM[ WN TIVL KPW[MV WV the basis of age, altitude and exposition.” The object of the Simonit&Sirch method is to increase the longevity of the vines by means of pruning with small cuts that allow free branching of the vines, respecting the lymphatic circuit. “In Valtellina, from their knowledge of the territory, interesting elements emerged, such as an old cultivation method called archetto valtellinese”. This traditional system was gradually abandoned in favor of guyot, which tends to domesticate the vitality of the vine, almost to “castrate it”, according to Simonit. “Even if nebbiolo is a variety that is resistant to wood diseases, with young guyot-trained vines, we tried to understand how we could return to tradition, to a sort of evolution of the archetto valtellinese that at one time guaranteed 70-80 years of productivity to the plant.”

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PIZZOCCHERI THE CULINARY FLAGBEARER OF THE VALLEY

5WZM \PIV I XI[\I XQbbWKKPMZQ IZM \PM K]TQVIZa ÆIObearers of the valley. The word itself always suggests Valtellina. It is impossible to visit Sondrio and its surroundings without trying the fresh pasta specialty that most of the taverns (crotti), trattorias and elegant restaurants have on their menus. As with all popular dishes, there are good and better ways to prepare them. “To protect the true Valtellinese pizzoccheri, in 2002 we founded the Accademia del Pizzocchero”, explained its president Rezio Donchi. The association was established in Teglio, a village at 900 meters, which in the past was one of the principal centers in the valley to which it gave its name. From the pizzoccheri capital comes the original ZMKQXM KWLQÅML IVL ZMOQ[\MZML Ja \PM IKILMUa <PM only question is where to go to taste it. “At one of the nine restaurants in Teglio that are members of the Accademia,” insists Donchi. Outside the Valtellina, go to Al Faro in Dalmine. The ingredients for four are: 400 g buckwheat flour, 100 g white flour; 200 g butter, 250 g Casera DOP, 150 g grated grana cheese, 200 g cabbage, 250 g potatoes, one clove garlic, pepper. Info: WWW.ACCADEMIADELPIZZOCCHERO.IT

VIOLINO DI CAPRA FOR CHRISTMAS, A CHILD OF THE GROTTOES Processing meat is a centuries-old tradition in Valtellina and Valchiavenna, transit valleys between northern and southern Europe. Air-dried bresaola of beef and of venison, carne salata, dried cacciatore sausages of mixed beef and pork or game are some of the specialties. In particular, venison salami comes from Val Malenco, a lateral valley that begins in Sondrio. The most unusual product is violino di capra, goat prosciutto. The very few producers that belong to Presidio Slow Food, led by Aldo Del Curto of Chiavenna, use only local animals raised in semi-wild conditions and fed with grass, bran and cornmeal. Traditionally, the violino was aged in grottoes, or crotti, storage spaces in the rock. But clients also buy a violino (between 2 and 3 kilos) and keep it in the cellar to have ready for Christmas. It must be hand-sliced, holding the small prosciutto as if one had a real violin in the hand.

PHOTO BY ACCADEMIA PIZZOCCHERO DI TEGLIO

To discover culinary treasures, visit the lateral valleys such as Valgerola, which takes us to Gerola Alta, a tiny village where the Centro del Bitto has its headquarters. About a dozen producers, led by the courageous Paolo Ciapparello, stubbornly produce the celebrated Alpine cheese in the traditional way, with milk from cows that have only eaten grass. There’s much to say about this valiant choice, with its uncertain future. But a visit to the cellars with hundreds of cheese wheels bought by clients from all over the world and left to age in this tiny, tucked-away mountain town is an experience. Complete it with a taste of Bitto that has aged ten years or more – a true meditation cheese. If you don’t have the time to go as far as Gerola Alta, then stop in the center of Morbegno, where there’s a fascinating cu-

CHEESES BITTO, CASERA & CO.

PREPARATION OF PIZZOCCHERI (BUCKWHEAT FLOUR PASTA)

The cheese panorama of Valtellina includes much more than Bitto. The century-old practice of raising cows and goats makes large production possible, and besides the valley’s most famous cheese, Casera, a protected DOP cheese and Scimudin stand out. Although a small group of livestock growers in Valgerola and surroundings have chosen traditional ways of producing Bitto, Bitto DOP can be made on all the alpine pastures in the Sondrio province, in the Alta Valle Brembana and in the province of Lecco, but only in the summer when the animals are on their Alpine pastures. The origins of Casera date back to the years around 1500 when herdsman brought together their milk to be processed in group dairies. That cooperative method is still alive in all the Sondrio province. The milk comes from cows fed grass and hay from the production zone. Aging has to be at least 70 days. But, unlike Bitto, Casera can be produced all year long. Little by little as the aging is completed, the cheese texture becomes more consistent and the color more vivid. Young +I[MZI _Q\P Q\[ [_MM\MZ ÆI^WZ is the basic ingredient in pizzoccheri. Scimudin suits those who prefer fresh cheeses, ready to eat. Whole cow’s milk is worked to best express its sweet and delQKI\M ÆI^WZ[ IVL \PM [WN\ KPMM[M goes well with a little local honey. Other cheeses with a long tradition are Latteria, Taragna and Ricotta, but local dairies always offer new types of cheese to satisfy the tastes of modern consumers.

PAOLO CIAPPARELLO, PRESIDENT OF THE CONSORZIO SALVAGUARDIA DEL BITTO STORICO, IN THE CENTRO DEL BITTO STORICO AGING CELLAR

59 JANUARY 2016

TRAVEL

linary emporium. Fratelli Ciapponi is an unmissable shop, a kind of magical grocery in the expert hands of Paolo Ciapponi, a great cheese maven, and his coustin Alberto, who can lead you around the underground corridors that lie on many levels. Besides cheeses from these valleys, you can taste cured meats such as bresaola – air-dried, salted beef – and one called violino di capra, goat violin. The store has everything, but we also recommend visiting some of the other master artisans who work with meat. Aldo Del Curto in Chiavenna, for example, is also renowned for his violino di capra. Vittorio Salvetti in the Casa della Carne in Lanzada makes artisanal bresaola, carne salata and cured game salamis.

ALDO DEL CURTO IN THE MEAT-AGING ROOMS OF HIS BUTCHER SHOP, WITH A BRESAOLA.

SWEETS HIGH-ALTITUDE PANETTONE AND BISCOTTINI

Gaetano Coglitore, heir of the Cattaneo dynasty (ma\MZVIT TI[\ VIUM _PW WXMVML \PM ÅZ[\ XI[\Za [PWX QV Sondrio in 1904, pays particolar attention to the use of natural yeast in his panettoni and colombe production. One specialty stands out among local products: panettone with berries. In 2006, Coglitore inaugurated a new location for the pastry shop with minimalist lines and large show case windows that allowed him to show off the sweets. In the back is a visible workshop. Try buckwheat pastry, valcher (a local version of Sacher torte), montebianco (chestnut and cream pastry) with strawberries, cassata and cannoli. In Prosto di Piuro, near Chiavenna, the family of Simonetta Del +]Z\W UISM[ KWWSQM[ JI[ML WV ÆW]Z J]\\MZ IVL []OIZ in a house from the 17th century that in the past was a UQTT N]ZVQ[PQVO ITT \PM ÆW]Z QV \PM bWVM IVL QV\W VMIZJa Switzerland.

PASTICCERIA CATTANEO. THE OWNER AND PASTRY-CHEF GAETANO COGLITORE

60 JANUARY 2016

ADDRESSES TRE BICCHIERI AR.PE.PE. | SONDRIO | WWW.ARPEPE.COM DIRUPI | LOC. MADONNA DI CAMPAGNA | MONTAGNA IN VALTELLINA (SO) | WWW.DIRUPI.COM MAMETE PREVOSTINI | MESE (SO) | WWW.MAMETEPREVOSTINI.COM NINO NEGRI | CHIURO (SO) | WWW.NINONEGRI.IT ALDO RAINOLDI | LOC. CASACCE | CHIURO (SO) | WWW.RAINOLDI.COM

WHERE TO STAY CONTRADA BELTRAMELLI | VILLA DI TIRANO (SO) | VIA BELTRAMELLI, 41 | TEL. 366 6296828 | WWW.CONTRADABELTRAMELLI.COM A splendid example of a country farmhouse transformed into a B&B with a few charming rooms. There’s a memorable one built into the old hayloft where guests sleep on a straw bed next to an imposing wall of straw. A restauZIV\ WV \PM OZW]VL ÆWWZ +WV\ZILI WNfers good dishes and local wines. HOTEL EUROPA | SONDRIO | L.GO MALLERO CADORNA, 27 | TEL. 0342 515010 | WWW.ALBERGOEUROPA.COM A few steps from the principal piazza. +WUNWZ\IJTM IVL N]VK\QWVIT HOTEL SAN LORENZO | CHIAVENNA (SO) | C.SO GARIBALDI, 3 | TEL. 0343 34902 | WWW.SANLORENZOCHIAVENNA.IT Modern and functional three-star hotel, a few steps from the station, the historic center and the crotti, the his\WZQK \I^MZV[ WN +PQI^MVVI J]QT\ QV\W

rocky hollows where at one time the farmers stored wine, cured meats and cheeses. Today many have become trattorias and restaurants.

WHERE TO EAT CANTINONE | MADESIMO (SO) | VIA A. DE GIACOMI, 39 | 0343 56120 | WWW.SPORTHOTELALPINA.IT +ZMI\Q^M \MZZQ\WZQIT KWWSQVO Ja KPMN Stefano Masanti, everything based on the products of small farms and breeders in the valley (See the article and recipes on page 61). CROTASC | MESE (SO) | VIA DON P. LUCCHINETTI, 63 | TEL. 0343 41003 | WWW.RISTORANTECROTASC.COM Next to the historic site of the Prevostini winery is a restaurant that is pleasIV\ JW\P QV _QV\MZ I ÅZMXTIKM IVL []UUMZ W]\LWWZ \MZZIKM Excellent traditional pasta dishes: gnocchetti, pizzoccheri, raviolis.

FOOD SHOP BISCOTÌN DE PRÓST | PROSTO DI PIURO (SO) | VIA ALLA CHIESA 3 | TEL. 0343 32733 | WWW.BISCOTTINIDIPROSTO.IT “The popular recipe of true Prosto biscottini was passed down from our ancestors and now we, the grandchildren, take care of it,” Monica and SimWVM\\I ,MT +]Z\W \MTT ][ 0MZM aW] ÅVL this ancient family tradition carried on, generation after generation. CASA DELLA CARNE | LANZADA (SO) | VIA SAN GIOVANNI, 155 | TEL. 0342 453278 | WWW.CASADELLACARNE.COM Bresaola of beef and venison, violino of lamb, goat, deer, goat-antelope. +IZVM [ITI\I UITMVKI IV M`KT][Q^M product of this artisanal butcher, is premium dried, smoked beef, eaten sliced very thin.

61 JANUARY 2016

FRATELLI CIAPPONI | MORBEGNO (SO) | P.ZZA III NOVEMBRE, 23 | TEL. 0342 610223 | WWW.CIAPPONI.COM In a piazzetta in the historic center is a shop where you breathe the atmosphere of an emporium from the past: the best cheeses, cured meats, local wines, artisanal pasta, jam, honey and preserves. Among the traditional sweets is bisciola Z][\QKI _PQKP QV \PM .ZI\MTTQ +QIXponi variation is covered with bittersweet chocolate. MACELLERIA DEL CURTO | CHIAVENNA (SO) | VIA DOLZINO, 129 | TEL. 0343 32312 )TLW LMT +]Z\W XZWL]KM[ JZM[IWTI NZWU Å^M K]\[ WN JMMN JW\\WU ZW]VL MaM WN ZW]VL \WX [QLM ÆIVS Z]UX <PM Z]UX Q[ TMIV IVL [_MM\ in the mouth, with more assertive ÆI^WZ \PIV \PM JW\\WU ZW]VL >QWTQno di capra is a Presidio Slow Food, a recognized artisanal jewel. It calls for two months of aging. Aldo advises cutting it by hand and pairing Q\ _Q\P I Æ]\M WN J]JJTa MIELERIA MOLTONI | VILLA DI TIRANO (SO) | VIA SONVICO, 1 | TEL. 0342 795370 The locale is in a renovated old dairy. In the front, the store stocks a wide variety of honeys, among which are the rare rhododendron, alpine, dandelion, acacia, lime, chestnut, eucalyptus, honeydew. In the back is the workshop for honey extraction and packaging. PASTICCERIA CATTANEO | SONDRIO | VIA TRENTO, 8 | TEL. 0342 218542 | WWW.CATTANEO1904.COM /IM\IVW +WOTQ\WZM PQ[ UW\PMZ Q[ I +I\\IVMW LMLQKI\M[ PQU[MTN \W \PM IK\Q^Q\a M[\IJTQ[PML Ja 5IZ\QVW +I\taneo in 1904.

An essential book for all who love Italian wine More than 60 experts spent months doing blind tastings in every region of Italy

2400 producers 22000 wines 421 Tre Bicchieri 80 Tre Bicchieri verdi

www.gamberorosso.it

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Francesco Seccagno photo by Michaela Davies

Stefano Masanti A passionate traveler, in love with cooking since childhood, Stefano Masanti and his wife Raffaella embrace their Valtellina, a land of great products and grand wines

VALTELLINA, BETWEEN LAKE AND MOUNTAIN 63 JANUARY 2016

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

FROM VALTELLINA TO NAPA VALLEY 0Q[ OZMI\ XI[[QWV NWZ \ZI^MT ÅVITTa TML PQU \W LQ^QLM PQ[ \QUM JM\_MMV 5ILM[QUW VMIZ ;WVLZQW QV 4WUJIZLa IVL 6IXI >ITTMa _PMZM NWZ I aMIZ PM PI[ JMMV QV KPIZOM WN ITT \PM NWWL I\ \PM >Q\\WZQW ;I\\]Q ?QVMZa QV ;IQV\ 0MTMVI 0Q[ K]KQVI JMOQV[ _Q\P \PM SVW_TMLOM IVL INNMK\QWV NWZ \PM UW]V\IQV[ WN PQ[ >IT\MTTQVI bWVM IVL LMMXMV[ _Q\P \PM M`XMZQMVKM[ IVL MUW\QWV[ OI\PMZML QV PQ[ \ZI^MT[ 6W_ PM Q[ WVM WN \PM NWZKM[ JMPQVL I VM_ NWWL _I^M QV I ^ITTMa \PI\ PI[ ZMLQ[KW^MZML Q\[ W_V QLMV\Q\a IVL XW_MZ QV Q\[ ^QVMaIZL[ I[ _MTT QVI]O]ZI\QVO I \Z]M VM_ IOM NWZ 6MJJQWTW W]\[QLM \PM 4IVOI bWVM QV 8QMLUWV\ ;\MNIVW 5I[IV\Q TW^ML JMQVO QV \PM SQ\KPMV IVL PMTXQVO PQ[ OZIVLNI\PMZ XZMXIZM QKM KZMIU NWZ \PM NIUQTa PW\MT 0M OZIL]I\ML NZWU PW\MT [KPWWT ¹+ZW\\W +I]ZOIº QV +PQI^MVVI QV ! ! .WZ \PZMM aMIZ[ PM LQ^QLML PQ[ \QUM JM\_MMV ]VQ^MZ[Q\a [\]LQM[ IVL UIVIOQVO \PM +IV\QVWVM ZM[\I]ZIV\ ¹*]\ \PMV 1 LMKQLML 1 TMN\ ]VQ^MZ[Q\a IVL LM^W\ML Ua[MTN \W KWWSQVO .WZ \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM /IUJMZW :W[[W VW\QKML Ua _WZS IVL ZM^QM_ML UM _Q\P IV MVKW]ZIOQVO W]\ WN XWQV\[ º <PI\ [KWZM Q[ VW_ I\ IVL QV PM _WV \PM [XMKQIT *IZWVM 8QbbQVQ XZQbM 0Q[ _QNM :INNIMTTI _PW TMIL[ \PM NZWV\ ZWWU IVL Q[ \PM ZM[\I]ZIV\¼[ [WUUMTQMZ Q[ IT[W I OZMI\ \ZI^MTMZ IVL [PM \WW OWM[ M^MZa_PMZM QV [MIZKP WN QV[XQZI\QWV K]TQVIZa QVÆ]MVKM[ IVL VM_ QVOZMLQMV\[ NWZ \PMQZ W_V K]KQVI NWK][ML WV \PQ[ \MZZQ\WZa TWKI\ML JM\_MMV TISM[ IVL UW]V\IQV[ ;PM NW]VLML [TW_KWWSQVO WZO IV I[[WKQI\QWV WN KPMN[ _PW [XW\TQOP\ \PM 4WUJIZLa ZMOQWV *]\ [PM¼[ IT[W QV\MZM[\ML QV IKKMV\[ IVL V]IVKM[ \PI\ IZM ITT PMZ W_V º5a KWWSQVO Q[ UWLMZV J]\ _Q\PW]\ NWTTW_QVO NI[PQWV 1 PI^M I XZMKQ[M XMZ[WVIT XPQTW[WXPa JMPQVL Q\ º ;PM [\Ia[ QV KTW[M IVL KWV[\IV\ KWV\IK\ _Q\P \PM JM[\ XZWL]KMZ[ QV \PM bWVM IVL QV\MZXZM\[ UW]V\IQV \ZILQ\QWV[ QV I TQOP\MZ IVL UWZM QV\MZVI\QWVIT _Ia _Q\P I JZMI\P WN 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV _IZU\P ;\IZ\QVO \PQ[ aMIZ ;\MNIVW IVL :INNIMTTI LQ^QLM \PMQZ \QUM JM\_MMV \PMQZ ZM[\I]ZIV\ 1T +IV\QVWVM IVL \PM ;XWZ\ 0W\MT )TXQVI QV 5ILM[QUW _PMZM \PMa [XMVL \PM _QV\MZ NZWU MIZTa ,MKMUJMZ ]V\QT -I[\MZ IVL \PM >Q\\WZQW ;I\\]Q ?QVMZa QV 6IXI >ITTMa NZWU )XZQT \W 6W^MUJMZ _PMZM \PMa W^MZ[MM \PM K]TQVIZa M^MV\[ WN \PM _QVMZa IL CANTINONE E SPORT HOTEL ALPINA | MADESIMO (SO) | VIA DE GIACOMI, 39 | TEL. 0343 56120 | WWW.RISTORANTECANTINONE.COM | WWW.SPORTHOTELALPINA.IT 64 JANUARY 2016

RIVER TROUT, SLIGHTLY SMOKED, TUBERS AND ROOTS INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS FOR THE TROUT 4 RIVER TROUT FILET, ABOUT 140 G EACH 30 G SALT 30 G SUGAR ICE

FOR SMOKING APPLE WOOD SHAVINGS

FOR THE TUBERS

100 G OF PURPLE POTATOES 100 G OF YELLOW POTATOES 100 G OF RED POTATOES 100 G OF SWEET POTATOES 100 G TOPINAMBUR (SUNCHOKE) FOR THE ROOTS

1 RED CARROT 1 WHITE CARROT

1 RADISH EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT AND PEPPER

PREPARATION 8ZMXIZM \PM \ZW]\" ZMUW^M KIZMN]TTa IVa JWVM[ NZWU \PM \ZW]\ ÅTTM\[ 8TIKM \PMU QV I JW_T IVL KW^MZ _Q\P []OIZ IVL [IT\ XZM^QW][Ta UQ`ML 4MI^M QV ZMNZQOMZI\WZ NWZ IV PW]Z KW^MZML _Q\P \ZIV[XIZMV\ _ZIX <PMV ZQV[M \PM ÅTTM\[ ]VLMZ Z]VVQVO _I\MZ LZa IVL XTIKM WV IV W^MV \ZIa IJW^M QKM KW^MZML Ja IT]UQV]U NWQT 1V \PM TW_MZ XIZ\ WN \PM W^MV XTIKM IVW\PMZ [PMTN _Q\P \PM IXXTM _WWL [PI^QVO[ ?Q\P \PM PMTX WN I ÆI[PTQOP\ [M\ \PM [PI^QVO[ WV ÅZM ?PMV MVW]OP [UWSM PI[ LM^MTWXML KTW[M \PM W^MV LWWZ 4M\ \PM Å[P [UWSM NWZ IJW]\ UQV]\M[ 1N VMKM[[IZa TQOP\ \PM [PI^QVO[ IOIQV \W OM\ UWZM [UWSM :MUW^M \PM Å[P NZWU \PM W^MV XIV IVL SMMX QV ZMNZQOMZI\WZ ]V\QT ZMILa \W ][M 8ZMXIZM \PM XW\I\WM[ =[QVO I UIVLWTQV K]\ \PQV [TQKM[ NZWU MIKP XW\I\W ,ZM[[ \PM

65 JANUARY 2016

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RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

EEL RAVIOLI IN MADESIMO CRANBERRY AND OYSTER CONSOMMÉ INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS

TO DECORATE

1 LETTUCE HEART FOR THE RAVIOLI

100 G OF 00 FLOUR (PASTRY) 100 G OF DURUM WHEAT FLOUR 100 G EGG YOLKS (FROM 6 EGGS)

OREGANO EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT AND PEPPER

200 G FILLET OF EEL

PREPARAZIONE

1 SPRIG ROSEMARY

8ZMXIZM \PM ZI^QWTQ" _WZS \PM \_W SQVL[ WN ÆW]Z _Q\P MOO aWTS[ ]V\QT \PM LW]OP Q[ [UWW\P IVL PWUWOMVW][ +W^MZ _Q\P I LIUX KTW\P IVL TM\ ZM[\ QV \PM ZMNZQOMZI\WZ NWZ WVM PW]Z 1V IV W^MVXZWWN XIV XTIKM MMT I LZQbbTM WN WQT \PM ZW[MUIZa IVL OIZTQK *ISM NWZ UQV]\M[ QV I ˆ+ ˆ. W^MV 4MI^M MMT \W KWWT \PMV ZMUW^M JWVM IVL XZM[[ _Q\P I NWZS ]V\QT aW] PI^M I PWUWOMVW][ UI[[ ;MI[WV _Q\P WQT [IT\ XMXXMZ IVL ÅVMTa KPWXXML WZMOIVW TMI^M[ <PMV [PIXM \PM

1 CLOVE GARLIC EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT AND PEPPER

FOR THE CRANBERRY CONSOMMÉ

200 G CRANBERRIES 4 OYSTERS SALT

66 JANUARY 2016

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BREAST OF GUINEA HEN WITH CABBAGE AND PEAR, SFORZATO SAUCE INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS

2 GUINEA HEN BREASTS 30 G BUTTER 20 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 1 CLOVE GARLIC 1 SPRIG THYME 1 SPRIG ROSEMARY SALT AND PEPPER

FOR THE CABBAGE 4 LEAVES OF CABBAGE, BOILED

30 G RED CABBAGE, FINELY SLICED EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT AND PEPPER

4 SMALL PEARS

FOR THE SFORZATO SAUCE 100 G OF GUINEA HEN OR CHICKEN STOCK

50 G SFORZATO WINE 10 G BUTTER SALT

PREPARATION 8ZMXIZM \PM O]QVMI PMV" UMT\ J]\\MZ QV I XIV ILL WTQ^M WQT OIZTQK \PaUM IVL :W[MUIZa )LL \PM O]QVMI PMV JZMI[\ [SQV [QLM LW_V IVL JZW_V _MTT .QVQ[P \PM KWWSQVO QV I ˆ+ ˆ. W^MV NWZ UQV]\M[ 3MMX _IZU NWZ UQV]\M[ JMNWZM [MZ^QVO 8ZMXIZM \PM KIJJIOM" [IT\ IVL XMXXMZ \PM ZML KIJJIOM LZQbbTM _Q\P WQT IVL

67 JANUARY 2016

TMI^M \W ZM[\ NWZ W UQV]\M[ ,ZQbbTM WQT QV\W I XIV IVL _PMV Q\ Q[ PW\ ILL \PM OZMMV KIJJIOM TMI^M[ IVL PMI\ NWZ UQV]\M 3MMX _IZU 8ZMXIZM \PM XMIZ[" QV \PM [IUM XIV ][ML NWZ \PM KIJJIOM [I]\u \PM XMIZ[ [TQKML TMVO\P_Q[M 3MMX _IZU 5ISM \PM [I]KM" ZML]KM \PM KPQKSMV [\WKS IVL _QVM Ja PITN ILL J]\\MZ IVL MU]T[QNa I_Ia NZWU PMI\ <I[\M NWZ [IT\ )ZZIVOM \PM XTI\M" LQ^QLM \PM KIJJIOM TMI^M[ IUWVO \PM LQ[PM[ ;TQKM \PM O]QVMI PMV JZMI[\[ IVL TIa [TQKM[ W^MZ \PM KIJJIOM )LL XMIZ[ LMKWZI\M _Q\P ZML KIJJIOM IVL NQVQ[P _Q\P [I]KM

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

CREAM AND CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO WITH DATES, NUTS, CARAMEL SAUCE AND MORELLO CHERRIES IN SYRUP INGREDIENTS FOR 4 SERVINGS FOR THE SEMIFREDDO 200 G WHIPPED CREAM

20 G HONEY 30 G SUGAR 40 G CHOPPED CHOCOLATE FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE 50 G SUGAR

50 G WATER

FOR THE NUT TOPPING 20 G PINE NUTS 20 G DATES

I ZMK\IVO]TIZ UWTL IVL NZMMbM NWZ I\ TMI[\ PW]Z[

20 G PECANS 20 G PISTACHIOS 20 G TOASTED SLICED ALMONDS 20 G MORELLO CHERRIES IN SYRUP

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68 JANUARY 2016

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PAIRINGS

RIVER TROUT, SLIGHTLY SMOKED,

EEL RAVIOLI IN MADESIMO CRANBERRY

RIESLING DANCING EGG 2014 | V. SATTUI WINERY | 1111, WHITE LANE | ST. HELENA (CA 94574) | TEL. +01 707 963 7774 | WWW.VSATTUI.COM

SOLESTA 2014 | LA COSTA | PEREGO (LC) | FRAZ. COSTA | VIA CURONE, 15 | TEL. 039 5312218 | WWW.LA-COSTA.IT

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BREAST OF GUINEA HEN WITH CABBAGE AND PEAR, SFORZATO SAUCE

CREAM AND CHOCOLATE SEMIFREDDO WITH DATES, NUTS, CARAMEL SAUCE AND MORELLO CHERRIES IN

VALTELLINA SUP. MONTESCALE 2009 | NICOLA NOBILI | POGGIRIDENTI PIANO (SO) | VIA MASONI, 20 | TEL. 0342 430262 | WWW.VININOBILI.IT

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TUBERS AND ROOTS

AND OYSTER CONSOMMÉ

SYRUP

69 JANUARY 2016

LETTER FROM PARIS

DOM PÉRIGNON.

The man who created the greatest success story in the history of wine All those develop with time. But with this approach, today brands can go very far.” Translated into the language of the wine lover, this conversation tells of a prosaic reality, that of the qualitative improvement of wines, above all of their greater finesse, greater natural expressiveness. Technique and savoir-faire matter, but today they are backstage. “There are many ways to achieve quality, both in terms of viticulture and the development of a brand. Moët has made considerable investments, and you can see it in production, functionality and quality. The increased ownership of our vineyards was essential to our development and to our project. Our approach was gradually transmitted to all our suppliers, but it is still a challenge. Conveying our requirements is still a work in progress, but now we have a pilot group of partners who lead all the others. We have specific qualitative measures, a true vision with real demands, a real, long-term collaboration.” This is a lesson that can be learned by all producers. photo by Colin Hampden-White

There are not many wines that sell for more than 100 euros a bottle – only about a hundred. Those that sell for more than 100 euros, and are produced in the millions are non-existent, with one exception: Dom Pérignon. We met with the winemaker of the celebrated Champagne cuvee, Richard Geoffrey, who handles his immense responsibility with cheer, wisdom, and no sign of ego issues. Since its creation in 1937, Dom Pérignon has been the symbol of the power of the estate that created it, Moët et Chandon. But since the creation of the LVHM group, more than a quarter of a century ago, Moët et Chandon and Dom Pérignon have become the trendy flagbearers of the French concept of luxury. Richard Geoffrey explained all this confidently. “The estate definitely entered the modern age, and I hope I influenced this development. It is a proud company with a stiff spine, rooted in its pioneering, entrepreneurial spirit, opportunistic in the noble sense of the term. When I look back, my pride will be in the fact for Moët, just as for Dom Pérignon, the wine is central to the brand. That doesn’t happen by accident. It takes a lot of work, influence, conviction.

Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve 70

JANUARY 2016

GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it

SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri

PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina

LAYOUT Chiara Buosi, Maria Victoria Santiago, Simona Picchiarelli

CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Francesco Beghi, Michel Bettane, Elisabetta De Blasi, Dario Bragaglia, Thierry Desseauve, Gianni Fabrizio, Stefano Polacchi, William Pregentelli, Francesco Seccagno

PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Chiara Buosi, Colin Hampden-White, Michaela Davis, Andrea Ruggeri

GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia

Advertising GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. via Ottavio Gasparri 13/17, 00152 Roma tel +39 06 551121 - +39 06 55112206 fax +39 06 55112260

Advertising director Paola Persi MUIQT" ]NĂ…KQW X]JJTQKQ\I(OIUJMZWZW[[W Q\

GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2016. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials. January 2016

Gambero Rosso and are registered trademarks belonging to Gambero Rosso S.p.A.

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international@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso USA 71 JANUARY 2016

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