Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - April 2015 by Gambero Rosso

YEAR 20 N. 84 - APRIL 2015

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

www.gamberorosso.it

WINES OF THE FUTURE VITIS VINIFERA 2.0 1

APRIL 2015

速

a tavola

COVERSTORY 24 | The Wines of the Future Thriving in selected vineyards, new grape varieties are disease resistant, require little or no vineyard treatment and give good, sustainable wines

WINE 8 | After Vinitaly. What we tasted We present a winning team of talented bottles NZWU \PM [W]\P WN 1\ITa [WUM \MZZQĂ&#x2026;K JW]\QY]M wines we found at Cerea, and a surprising Armenian wine story 37 | Classics wines meet their match We select a group of food-friendly, universally available bottles, and suggest some classic pairings

april 2015 12 2 APRIL 2015

“Invest in wine. At worst, you can always drink it.” Giovanni Agnelli

NEWS & MORE

42 | Best Buys: Umbria’s top wines under 10€ We found over two dozen high-quality, noteworthy wines that will add life to your shopping list

FOOD 50 | Chefs share their recipes. Costardi Brothers: the realm of rice Two brothers have turned a seldom-visited Piedmont town into a gourmet destination by featuring the simplest of the area’s ingredients, starting with rice 58 | Oli d’Italia 2015: Special Awards - Olive Oil Our annual guide chooses the 11 best Italian olive oils in a variety of categories

3 APRIL 2015

EDITORIAL

NOT A SCIENCE-FICTION VINEYARD Just a few weeks ago the IARC (International Agency for Research on +IVKMZ KTI[[QÅML OTaXPWsate, a substance at the base of the Monsanto herbicide Roundup, as probably cancerogenous, assigning it a danger level of A2. It is one of the world’s most widely used agricultural products. Monsanto responded quickly, with predictable criticism of the ÅVLQVO[ IKKWUXIVQML Ja I demand for new procedures and new commissions. But quite different research is also menacing the colossal chemical company, and this time it comes from the vineyards and their clonal selection. We are talking about new, disease-resistant vine varieties. These important [\]LQM[ _W]TL MVL \PM KTI[[QÅKI\QWV LQNNMZMVKM[ JMtween conventional, and organic production. The vines, the result of a cross between Vitis vinifera and American species, need few treatments each year, and in the future, possibly not even that. Tasting results are beginning to be interesting, and for the environment, it means a epoch-making change. All \PI\ LWM[V¼\ M^MV \ISM QV\W IKKW]V\ \PM ÅVIVKQIT [I^-

ings for producers. These vines are also more adaptable to extreme climates: that’s why they have been planted in England, Germany Denmark and Sweden. The geography of winegrowing is changing before our eyes. Certainly, research will continue to require calm and careful experiments. Italy is in the avant-garde in the sector, but must also preserve it s patrimonium of biodiversity observing interations with indigenous varieties. Many producers are still skeptical. Research is at a level that should be guided and channeled, at the service of growers and farmers, rather than aimed at the industries in the sector. We can’t forget that almost all European wine-grape production is still on American rootstock. Recent studies show that very little has been LWVM \W ^MZQNa PW_ [XMKQÅK ZWW\[\WKS[ ZM[XWVL \W their grafted varieties and to different soils. In this issue of our magazine, we present some results and QV\ZWL]KM XMWXTM _PW IZM TWWSQVO IPMIL <W ÅVL W]\ whether they are visionaries, we simply have to wait. Lorenzo Ruggeri

4 APRIL 2015

2015 APRIL

21april

Roadshow

23 april Roadshow

11may TAIPEI

Roadshow

15 may BEIJING

Roadshow

1 june

2 november

trebicchieri

4 june

4 november

trebicchieri

SHANGHAI

HONG KONG

TA S TI

Vini d’Italia

JULY

4, 5, 6 july TOKYO

FOOD

VERA

MOSCOW

2016

4 february CHICAGO

SAN FRANCISCO trebicchieri

MARCH

12 march

DUSSELDORF trebicchieri

STOCKHOLM Vini d’Italia

trebicchieri

FEBRUARY

FOOD

Vini d’Italia

OCTOBER

19 november

11 february

COPENHAGEN E

MA MOSCOW EPRI

MAY

NOVEMBER

12, 13, 14 june

ECIAL

MUNICH ANT Vini d’Italia

JUNE

TORONTO

MEXICO CITY

29 april

tour 2015/2016

VANCOUVER

HOUSTON

2015/2016

worldtour

Vini d’Italia

trebicchieri

VERA

30 october TOKYO

trebicchieri

INFO: INFO:WORLDTOUR@GAMBEROROSSO.IT WORLDTOUR@GAMBEROROSSO.IT

trebicchieri

9 february

NEW YORK trebicchieri

Vini d’Italia

OSLO Vini d’Italia

VINO

NEWS

Pizza a candidate for UNESCO INTANGIBLE CULTURAL HERITAGE LIST In this year of the Expo, the Italian Commission for UNESCO has decided to spotlight pizza and the Association of Neapolitan Pizzaiuoli. International negotiations among 163 nations will soon begin, lasting until November 15, 2016, during which the evaluating committee will decide if pizza should be recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Heading the Italian team is Professor Pier Luigi Petrillo, who led the negotiations that brought about UNESCO’s 2014 recognition of Pantelleria’s traditional cultivation of head-trained bush vines, vite ad alberello.

ISLAM AND WINE Indonesia limits wine sales

We’ve always known that Islam has not looked kindly on wine. According to Askanews, as of April 16, 2015, in Indonesia, the largest Muslim country in the world, alcohol sales and consumption has been extremely ext limited. The prohibition covers commercial activities, including 55,000 retailers and 16,000 wholesalers. Violators will be jailed, from three months to two years for clandestine consumers, up to 10 years for dealers. <PM TI_ XZWXW[ML Ja 1[TIUQK XWTQ\QKIT XIZ\QM[ _PW PI^M XZM[[]ZML NWZ \PQ[ TMOQ[TI\QWV NWZ aMIZ[ _I[ ÅVITTa passed. Only one exception is allowed: alcohol is permitted on Bali, a popular tourist zone with a largely 0QVL] XWX]TI\QWV ?PI\ WNÅKQIT UW\Q^I\QWV Q[ OQ^MV NWZ \PQ[ KPWQKM IXIZ\ NZWU I ZMTQOQW][ WVM' ¹?M _IV\ \W save the future of our younger generation,” said the Minister of Commerce. Indonesia has a population of 250 million, largely Islamic, and do not drink alcohol. The law will not change the destiny of Italian wine exports, which according to ISTAT, amount to barely 700,000 euros. France, Australia and Chile’s numbers are [WUM_PI\ PQOPMZ 0W_M^MZ I XZWPQJQ\QWV \PQ[ ITT MVKWUXI[[QVO Q[ I VMOI\Q^M [QOVIT \PI\ UQOP\ ÅVL ZM[WVIVKM in other Muslim countries. It stops in its tracks a slight tendency of the last 5-6 years that saw the Muslim wine drinking increasing at 25% annually. One of the proponents of the new law, Muhammad )Z_IVQ <PWUIÅ WN \PM =VQÅML 8IZ\a NWZ ,M^MTWXUMV\ [IQL ¹)TKWPWT KWV[]UX\QWV is growing, above all among the young, and threatens their future.” Obviously, many in the country are protesting against the new law. According to economists, the law might be a blow to the nation’s income: taxes on alcohol brought in over 460 million dollars. )VL ÅVITTa WVM W\PMZ KWV[QLMZI\QWV" \PM government of Jakarta risks encouraging the development of a black market.

6 APRIL 2015

FENAVIN, the Spanish Vinitaly, stands sold out

Spain is preparing to celebrate its version of Vinitaly. Ciudad Real, a town in the Castilla-La Mancha region, source of over half of Spainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wine, will soon be hosting Fenavin Feria Nacional del Vino. Scheduled for May 12-13, the eighth edition promises to be very crowded, with registration three times higher than in 2013 (the fair is biennial). Over a third of the producers participating are Spanish wineries and cooperatives that have never taken part before. The numbers are an important indication that Spanish wine is showing its ability to penetrate foreign markets, even if average prices are falling. According to OEMV, Spanish observers of the wine market, sales have shown an increase of 4% in volume, with a 9% drop in value, and an average price drop of 12.8%. Bottled DOP wines and spumanti prices have gone down, while liqueurs have held their ground. Fenavin expects 9,000 visitors to the 30,000 square meter space. Director Manuel JuliĂ explained that exhiJQ\QWV [XIKM[ PI^M [WTL W]\ IVL N]Z\PMZ ZMY]M[\[ PI^M VW\ JMMV IKKMX\ML <PM \W\IT WN _QVMZQM[ Âš_QTT assure a reasonable ratio of buyers and sellers,â&#x20AC;? says JuliĂ .

Brunello up to 1,600 euros per hectoliter "THE WINE IS PRACTICALLY UNFINDABLE".

Ezio Rivella, past president of the Consorzio del Brunello di MontalciVW [IQL Q\ KTMIZTa" Âš?M LQLVÂź\ M`XMK\ I ^QV\IOM aMIZ TQSM \PQ[ WVM Âş 1\ was January 2011 when he spoke these words and when the excellent, Ă&#x2026;^M [\IZ aMIZ WN _I[ \I[\ML NWZ \PM Ă&#x2026;Z[\ \QUM 6W_ \PI\ \PQ[ ^QV\IOM has come on the market, prices have gone sky-high, 1,025 euros per hectoliter (data from March, 2015). Two years ago, Brunello cost about 600 euros for the same amount. The present president of the Consorzio, .IJZQbQW *QVLWKKQ <MV]\I 1T 8WOOQWVM OWM[ M^MV N]Z\PMZ Âš<PM IK\]IT price of not yet bottled Brunello 2010 is much higher than a thousand euros. Buying a hectoliter of Brunello today costs 1,600 euros. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s [\ZWVO LMUIVL IVL Q\Âź[ ^MZa LQNĂ&#x2026;K]T\ \W Ă&#x2026;VL [WUMWVM _PW PI[ \PM _QVM Âş

7 APRIL 2015

AFTER VINITALY

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

IMPRESSIVE SOUTHERN ITALIAN WINES on the Vinitaly field

t Vinitaly we turned our attention south and concentrated on three regions that are showing very well. We suggest 11 wines for a 3-4-3 offensive. For our defence we trusted in Campania, probably the region that in the last few years has most successfully completed a growth process, attaining a mature range of whites that are unique in Italy for the complexQ\a IVL ^IZQM\a WN ÆI^WZ[ WNNMZML 7]Z UQLÅMTL \ISM[ ][ \W 8]OTQI with a white, a rosato, a red and a dessert wine. What joins them Q[ I \MZZQÅK XZQKM Y]ITQ\a ZIXXWZ\ IVL I XZWÅTM \PI\ _QTT KWVvince the most sceptical. Puglia is not only Primitivo and not only mature, juicy wines. And ÅVITTa \PM \ZQLMV\ I\\IKS \ISM[ us across the Straits of Messina to Sicily. We touch on three very different zones, ranging from a Frappato from Vittoria to an Etna Rosso that comes from pre-phylloxera vines that are over 100 years old, closing with a contemporary version of Nero d’Avola. Our goalkeeper is a trustworthy meditation wine, this time from Calabria.

3-4-3 Luigi Viola

Guido Marsella

Terre Stregate

Michele Contrada

Cupertinum

Michele Biancardi Castello Monaci

Palamà

Pietradolce

Feudo Montoni

8 APRIL 2015

Arianna Occhipinti

Goalkeeper (Calabria) MOSCATO DI SARACENA PASSITO 2013 LUIGI VIOLA

5W[KI\W LQ ;IZIKMVI _I[ ÅZ[\ ZMKWOnized and classifed in the 16th century. Refreshing, lightened by savory shading, its decisiveness impresses the palate without cloying.

Defence (Campania) SANNIO FALANGHINA SVELATO 2014 TERRE STREGATE

This Falanghina produced in the municipality of Guardia Sanframondi in the Benevento zone is a best buy. It has a relaxed character, extremely fresh citrus fruit tones and biting but well-integrated acidity. A safe buy.

FIANO DI AVELLINO SELVECORTE 2013 MICHELE CONTRADA

One of those tastings that was worth travelling to Verona for. Selvecorte is wonderfully luminous with its aromas WN aMTTW_ ÆW_MZ[ KPIUWUQTM KQ\Z][ fruit and moss. The palate has energy and decidedly superior depth. We also tasted an under-the-counter monumental Selvacorte 2003 at the stand. A sure thing.

FIANO DI AVELLINO 2012 GUIDO MARSELLA

Unmistakeable smoky, almost lactic touch that resembles the outer skin of a lusciously moist buffalo mozzarella. Then comes pollen and a palate of overwhelming juiciness. We also retasted the Fiano di Avellino 2006: amazing. Just after they’re released, Marsella’s wines often seem very mature and overZQXM J]\ _Q\P \QUM \PMa ÅVL LMÅVQ\QWV and elegant rhythm.

Midfield (Puglia) L’INSOLITO 2014 MICHELE BIANCARDI

This winery in the Gargano zone is a jewel: 30K bottles, organic production, a young, well-tuned team. From the white limestone soil of the Gargano, once under the sea, comes this white - unusual for its name (l’insolito = the unusual) and in its aromas of minutolo grapes: sage, rosemary, but also lavender and tangerine. Flavor is agile, iodized, fresh, but IT[W UW]\P ÅTTQVO :MITTa [XMKQIT _Q\P ZI_ Å[P 1V \PM _QVMZa Q\ KW[\[ M]ZW[

METIUSCO ROSATO 2014 PALAMÀ

7]Z ÅZ[\ QUXZM[[QWV Q[ \PI\ Q[ I year for rosati labels. This Metiusco Rosato 2014 is actually very good. Made from negroamaro grapes, it is one of the top Puglia rosé wines, thanks to pomegranate and red berry notes on the nose and a consistent, fresh, wellstructured palate.

COPERTINO ROSSO RISERVA 2007 CUPERTINUM

) \Z]Ta QV\ZQO]QVO IVL WZQOQVIT XZWÅTM for this blend of negroamaro, malvasia nera and montepulciano. Aged in cement, never in barrels. Aromas are tertiary: pepper, preserved cherries, then dried tomatoes. The palate is rich in different layers. Flavor is prolonged IVL IKY]QZM[ ÅVM[[M _Q\P XWQV\[ WN JQ\\MZ ITUWVL IVL I [I^WZa [XQKa ÅVQ[P euros at the winery. It looks good in the UQLLTM WN \PM ÅMTL

MOSCATELLO SELVATICO PASSITO 2013 CASTELLO MONACI

) []ZXZQ[M <PQ[ Q[ \PM ÅZ[\ aMIZ NWZ \PQ[ noble rot wine from moscatello selvati-

9 APRIL 2015

co grapes, with their small, sparse berries. Delicate tones of apricot, saffron, sage. The palate has amazing drinkability: notes of candied citrus fruit, ^MZa PQOP IKQLQ\a IVL I ÅVQ[P N]TT WN vitality. 3,000 bottles produced, 8 euZW[ QV \PM _QVMZa ) ZMÅVML \W]KP NZWU our playmaker.

Attack (Sicily) NERO D’AVOLA VIGNA LAGNUSA 2011 FEUDO MONTONI

0W_ UIVa \I[\MZ[ PI^M aW] PMIZL [Ia ¹1 can’t drink any more of those black Nero L¼)^WTI ITT NZ]Q\ IVL RIUº' ?MTT NWZOM\ \PI\ XQK\]ZM _PMV aW] ÅVL aW]Z[MTN QV front of these aromas: fennel seeds, mint, and a fresh palate of ripe fruit that con\QV]M[ \W ZILQI\M WV \PM ÅVQ[P )JW]\ euros in the winery. Right wing.

ETNA ROSSO VIGNA BARBAGALLI 2012 PIETRADOLCE

As our center forward, we looked for one of the oldest vineyards on Etna. The nose Q[ W^MZ_PMTUQVO · LZQML ÆW_MZ[ ZWW\[ oregano, mulberry. The palate is a dance of Mediterranean sensations, generous IVL ÅVM LMTQKI\MTa PMUI\QK 1\ [PILM[ with great precision, into suffused, delicate notes of capers and rosemary.

IL FRAPPATO 2013 ARIANNA OCCHIPINTI

We close with a winger full of energy and verve. The 2013 seems even livelier than the 2012. Wonderful nose of red ÆW_MZ[ IVL XWUMOZIVI\M []J\TM J]\ mature. Electrifying palate for its freshness, acidity and red fruit fragrances. :ML JMZZa IVL [XQKa ÅVQ[P

VINI VERI

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

TOWARDS A TELL-ALL LABEL

iniVeri, an event that brought together 130 producers from all over Europe, closed its twelfth edition, held in Cerea, in the Veneto region, on Sunday, March 23. A nonintervention approach to production in both vineyard and cellar along with their artisanal dimension brings these wineries together. The question of transparency of information on labels was at the center of three days of tastings IVL UMM\QVO[ Âš1\ Q[ IKtually forbidden to write on the label the over 200 industrial substances permitted by law that can be added to wine between the harvest and the moment of bottling,â&#x20AC;? pointed out Giampiero Bea, president of Consorzio Vini Veri. We bring you eight of the many tastings.

10 APRIL 2015

VITOVSKA T 2011 VODOVIPEC

Let’s begin with one of the most authentic and complex whites in Italy. Savory depth, focused aromas and ÅVIT ÆI^WZ \PI\ seems to continuously change between iodized [MV[I\QWV[ IVL OZMMV \MI" Q\[ XZWÅTM Q[ slightly resinous and delicately smoky. The Carso zone in a bottle, in a version to taste and retaste over time. Fermentation and aging in amphora.

T’ARA RÀ 2013 CANTINA GIARDINO

From a winery that is the symbol of the natural movement in Irpinia, Campania, Antonio di Gruttola turns out a solid range of wines. This meaty and varied Greco stands out. Begins on a slight sensation of orange peel, but then opens with amazing energy. Wide and dense, it then strides along at a marching pace of salt and citrus peel, a touch WN ÆWZIT IVL U][Sa VW\M[ IVL \PMV QV\W I NZM[P TWVO KWV\QV]W][ ÅVQ[P <MZZQÅK

CESANESE DEL PIGLIO VIGNALI 2013 LA VISCIOLA

¹1\ LWM[V¼\ [MMU TQSM a Cesanese.” That’s the most frequent comment from those around the stand of Piero and his wife Rosa. They have two hectares of 60-year old vines

in Piglio (Lazio). Vignali, which has a particularly pale color and expresses soil rich in red clay, stands out, with its tones of anise, a savory vein and shadings of small red berry notes. Slightly behind in evolution, but just as good, the selection Mozzata 2013, from more calcareous soil, more austere and even more vertical during tasting.

HABEMUS 2013 SAN GIOVENALE

Also from Lazio, we want to note the improvement in Habemus, a blend of grenache, syrah and carignan. This version of Emanuele Pangrazi’s wine is more subtle than its predecessors, depending less on extraction and more on balsamic and spicy notes. Fruit is very NZIOZIV\ IVL R]QKa \PM XZWÅTM ÅVM IVL multi-faceted. Wood is handled with a ÅVM \IQTWZ¼[ [SQTT

QVEVRI 2013 VINO DI ANNA

Anna Martens’ winery – her journey from Adelaide to Solicchiata was a rapid one – is one of the most talkedabout in the Mount Etna zone. Her exciting Nerello Mascalese ages in qvevri, 2000-liter terracotta amphorae completely buried in the ground. Sensations are delicately smoky, notes of roots, for a mature and light-hearted proÅTM WN IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ IVL WZIVOM XMMT <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ M`\ZIWZLQVIZQTa MTMOIV\

11 APRIL 2015

PINEAU D’AUNIS NOCTURNE 2013 LES VIGNES DE L’ANGE VIN

Jean Pierre Robino is a unique voice in the territory of Sartre in the Loire. This is not a wine for everyone. 6W []TÅ\M[ ILLML acidity is extreme, but in its best versions, it is absolutely enchanting. This selection comes from 70 to 80-year-old vineyards. It opens on tones of medicinal herbs, cloves, and the palate is amazing for its progression, vitality, and deeply aromatic but cutting ÅVQ[P

BRAMATERRA 2011 COLOMBERA & GARELLA

What a nose! Luminous and precise aromas: violets, ripe and fragrant berries, mandarin orange peel. It’s a middle weight: shades off and proceeds by subtraction, J]\ ÅTT[ \PM UW]\P _Q\P ÆI^WZ ;I^WZa MTegant, it already has expressive maturity and incredibly rich detail. Graceful. In wine shops, an appealing 18 euros.

BAROLO BRUNATE 2011 GIUSEPPE RINALDI

Beppe Citrico Rinaldi unveils this sumptuous wine, already airy in its NZIOZIVKM[ ^MZa ÅVM from an aromatic point of view: dry ZML ÆW_MZ[ _WVderfully pure, ripe and juicy fruit. The palate shows the usual driving energy, MTMOIVKM QVÅVQ\M ÆI^WZ IVL XMZ[Q[\MV\ ÅVQ[P <PMZM¼[ TQNM JMaWVL \PM ^QVtage in Langa.

AFTER VINITALY

by William Pregentelli

ARMENIAN AMPHORAE Battered by a war for independence from Turkey in 1915, Armenians fled their country and now can be found all over the world. One of these is Zorik Gharibian.

orn in Iran, he made his way to Italy, studying in Venice and then in Milano. A long career in fashion didn’t pry him loose from his earliest ambition, to produce wine. ¹<WLIa VW WVM I[[WKQI\M[ )Zmenia with wine,” commented BWZQS ¹J]\ QN _M ZMIL \PM IVcient Greeks, we see that Armenian traders traveled the rivers up into Mesopotamia to sell their wine.” His Zorah

winery is located in the most isolated part of the country, a land of pasturing sheep, rocks and shepherds. Phylloxera never took hold on the limestone of these mountains, and Zorik’s vineyards, mostly arenì noir, the indigenous grape of the region, are ungrafted. An altitude of 1400 meters and dramatic daily temperature excursions shape the terroir. On a hill facing Zorik’s vineyards, an archeological expedition 12 APRIL 2015

found the world’s oldest known winemaking facility. Among traces of vines and grape seeds, the archeologists dug up buried amphora dateable to about 6,100 years ago. Working in this ancient place, is Zorik’s Tuscan enologist, Alberto Antonini. He told us, ¹4QUM[\WVM \MZZIQV O]IZIV\MM[ energy and vitality to its products. A dry climate and altitude permit treating the vineyards only with a Bordeaux mixture

and natural fertilizers.” The philosophy: the least possible intervention, in both vineyard IVL _QVMUISQVO KMTTIZ ¹<PM grapes,” Antonini went on, ¹IZM NMZUMV\ML QV VWV ZM[QV treated cement tanks. Aging takes place in amphorae, even QN W]Z ÅZ[\ M`XMZQUMV\ JMNWZM the terracotta, involved a brief period in barriques. But in the last three harvests we changed over to large, untoasted barrels. The amphora permits the wine to breathe, but without [IKZQÅKQVO IZWUI º .WZ VW_ the winery produces only one label, Karasì, the Armenian word for amphora, a red from arenì noir grapes. Production is in its fourth year. A white, also from indigenous, ungrafted vines, will be released in the future, and a very particular cru from a centuries-old, almost abandoned vineyard at 1600 meters above [MI TM^MT BWZQS KWVKT]LM[ ¹5a production philosophy is the result of my love for my land. Armenia still lives in me, and I wanted to bring back to the country an ancient tradition of wine, a wine that communicates the territory and the proud character of the people who produce it.”

KARASÌ 2013

On the nose, dark notes of medicinal herbs and insistent spiciness accompany notes of dark fruit. Impact is juicy, the palate well-structured, with dense but [WN\ \IVVQV ) TWVO Y]Q\M IKQLQK ÅVQ[P

KARASÌ 2012

The warm vintage year is felt on the nose: ripe dark berries, then notes of earth and roots. The palate opens wide and becomes intriguing, with notes of black pepper and nutmeg; smooth, never invasive tannin.

KARASÌ 2011

An incredible wine. In a cool year, elegance rules. A balsamic nose veers rapidly towards notes of Mediterranean brush, with rosemary framing hints of blueberries and black currants. Impact WV \PM XITI\M Q[ ÅVM LM^MTWXUMV\ Q[ LaVIUQK IVL ^Q\IT \PIVS[ \W ÅVIT IKQLQ\a perfectly balanced with tannic structure.

13 APRIL 2015

KARASÌ 2010

<PM ÅZ[\ aMIZ WV \PM UIZSM\ IVL \PM WVTa one in which barriques were used. Wood ÆI\\MVML \PM _QVM I JQ\ _PQKP XZM[MV\[ the typical notes of vanilla, chocolate and cocoa powder. Structure is imposing, but doesn’t lessen drinkability.

STREETFOOD

BOLOGNA, the second life of the Mercato delle Erbe Italian fresh food markets are in the spotlight. New approaches are bring life to old markets, making them the custodians of modern, appealing food service. Places like the Mercato Centrale in Florence or the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio in Rome are setting an example for other Italian cities. Let’s look at Bologna and its Mercato delle Erbe.

n 1910, this market had the job of easing the crowds at two other piazzas, Malpighi and San Francesco, where the weekly stands of local peasants were set up. Today, it is a place that attracts a wide range of people, depending on the hour. Meat, fruit and vegetables are laid out beautifully on the vendors’ [\ITT[ _Q\P KTQMV\[ ÅTTQVO \PMQZ shopping bags, and perhaps stopping for an aperitif or even dinner. In fact, there are many places in which to spend an evening, which means that the market stays open even until 2 at night. Among them is Banco 32. Maurice Kav-

enagh, Paola Donati and chef Lionel Joubaud decided immediately to bet on the Mercato delle Erbe and opened \PM ÅZ[\ ZM[\I]ZIV\ QV[QLM \PM refurbished structure. A one\QUM Å[P [\IVL JMKIUM I ZM[taurant offering seafood cuisine, with ingredients coming from the nearby market stalls. Every day, the chef designs a lunch menu where, in addition to different side dishes and salads, a NM_ ÅZ[\ IVL [MKWVL KW]Z[M[ IZM offered along with desserts. At dinner time, the menu changes. ¹?M \PW]OP\ IJW]\ OQ^QVO W]Z clients the chance to sample different dishes, something quick, on the tapas model.” So, with a 14 APRIL 2015

menu that changes daily, in the evening one can go from dish to LQ[P WN ^MZa NZM[P Å[P MVPIVKML by simple but intriguing recipes.

*]\ \PI\¼[ VW\ ITT ¹)T\ZW'º _PQKP UMIV[ ¹)Va\PQVO MT[M'º Q[ \PM name of a food court that takes in all the sides of the piazzetta inside the market itself. It’s open all day from breakfast in the morning to light lunch, to aperitif time right up through supper, with 5 places that include a bar, a pizzeria, a vegetarian take-away, a osteria (similar to a tavern) and a restaurant. The piazzetta is the perfect place \W [\WX \W ÅVL I [TQKM WN XQbbI right out of the oven, a pumpkin torte, hot soups, panini with

local cheeses or cured meats, along with artisanal beer. The restaurant offers two menus, one territorial and traditional, the other more innovative but not overly so. The wine list is priced INNWZLIJTa )VL ÅVITTa _M PI^M to mention Maichan, a miniature Asian restaurant belonging to Mariano Monti and Cinzia +PIV <PMa M`XTIQV ¹,QU []U includes meat or vegetable raviWTQ [\MIUML WZ OZQTTML J]V[ ÅTTML with shrimp, roll-ups, meatballs, sweet and sour steamed bread, noodles and soups. Everything Q[ XZMXIZML _Q\P ÆW]Z IVL _I\MZ and worked by expert Bolognese pasta-makers using a typical rolling pin.” Fusion in a ravioli, embodied on a stand in a neighborhood market. Mercato delle Erbe Bologna|via Ugo Bassi, 23-25 | tel. 051.230186 | Maichan | tel. 051 273579

15 APRIL 2015

WINE OF THE MONTH

THE KING OF EXTRA DRY PROSECCO VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE EXTRA DRY GIUSTINO B. '13 RUGGERI 25,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 9.80 euros Paolo Bisol, with his children Giustino and Isabella, gives this great family business an artisanal style, despite the large number of bottles produced. The care and attention dedicated to every phase of produc\QWV IZM \PW[M \aXQKIT WN I ÅVM [UITT family-run business. Although the raw materials come from a large network of growers who are supervised throughout the year, the cellar is equipped with various crushing lines, so that the grapes can be sorted on the basis of their zone of origin and quality, even when work is at its most intense. Giustino B. perfectly embodies the spirit of extra dry wines, with Q\[ IZWUI[ WN NZM[P NZ]Q\ IVL ÆW_MZ[ while, in the mouth, it masks sweetness under fresh acidity and sapidity, showing harmonious length. It’s even better when aged at least a year. 5I\KP _Q\P UQ`ML NZQML Å[P

16 APRIL 2015

TWITTER dixit

Colors and Joy

Jon Thorsen

@colorsandjoy Mercedes Bravo Uses #Wine To Create Incredibly Stunning Portraits

@ReverseWineSnob Don’t forget your reading glasses! #winelover

Tim Atkin

WineTrailAdventures

@Timatkin ¹1\ _I[ ^MZa PIZL \W ÅVL I XWWZ wine”, according to one UK view of MVXZQUM]Z 1 NW]VL XTMV\a WN \PMU Were we at the same tastings?

(?MMSMVL?QVW)XX Wine is just a conversation waiting to PIXXMV _QVMY]W\M

Winetracker.co

Wine Spectator

@winetrackerco Here is the 350 year (?QVM;XMK\I\WZ history of the wine bottle. via @vine SMa QV XZWL]KQVO OZMI\ ?QVM Q[ \MUXMZI\]ZM UIQV _QVM ZMOQWV[ ?QVM4W^MZ XIQZ _QVM _QVMKPI\ #winelover @winewankers @DemiCassiani @JMiquelWine

17 APRIL 2015

SHELLFISH

PAIRING LAB verdicchio

morellino

Scallops TRENTODOC SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

Mussels FRAPPATO SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

Clams GRECO DI TUFO 18 APRIL 2015

verdicchio

& WINE SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

Oysters MOSCATO D'ASTI SCHIAVA

FIANO

FSO

Sea-urchins VERMENTINO DI GALLURA

SCHIAVA

Sea snails 19 APRIL 2015

ROSSESE DI DOLCEACQUA

EVENTS

ROADSHOW: 4 events in a row! Gambero Rosso on the road: Houston, Mexico City, Taipei, and Beijing

he Gambero Rosso Roadshow is off with a bang, with 4 events taking place in under a month. More than sixty wineries are traveling together to showcase a sample of Italian biodiversity. On Tuesday, April 21, Gambero Rosso began in the Union Station of Houston, in the magical setting of the original train station with a sweeping view over the baseball stadium, Minute Maid Park. As we write, the tour is on its

way to Mexico City, the scene of one of last year’s successful events. The tasting is scheduled for Friday, April 24, in the centrally located Avenida Paseo de la Reforma. Five hundred wines will be paired with Italian dishes carefully prepared by Il Becco Reforma at the Four Seasons Hotel, the restaurant newly opened by Rolly Pavia, a true ambassador of top Italian food and wine in Mexico. Last October, Rolly, in his Osteria del Becco in Polanco, built a caveau of

totally Italian bottles, among the largest and most complete in the world, with more than 30,000 bottles of super premium wines cellared. Wine consumption in Mexico is rapidly increasing: experts estimate a constant annual growth of 13% over the next year. The latest numbers conÅZU \PM XW[Q\Q^M \ZMVL 1V \PM ÅZ[\ [MUM[\MZ WN QUXWZ\[ of Italian wine reached 10.3 million euros, compared to 7.4 during the same period in 2013. There is no time for a break.

HOUSTON April 21, 2015

houston

MEXICO CITY April 24, 2015

Shortly after Mexico City, Gambero Rosso will hold its Roadshow event in Taipei. The tasting is scheduled for Friday, May 11, in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. The event called for the cooperation of the Taiwan Wine Academy. Wine tastings will be matched by Italian specialties carefully prepared by Ben Cotto restaurant, the reign of chef Mario Cittadini. Taiwan’s imported wine market has grown at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 26.8% over the XI[\ aMIZ[ \W I [QOVQÅKIV\ \W\IT value in 2013 of US $112 million (14.3 million litres), and is likely to continue strong growth. In the past six years, wine consumption has grown at a rate of 9.9 per cent per annum. Italian wine has a market share of 6% by value and 8% by volume. The tour will then move on for a ÅZ[\ ^Q[Q\ \W *MQRQVO <PM \I[\QVO is scheduled for Friday, May 15,

mexico city TAIPEI

May 11, 2015

taipei BEIJING May 15, 2015

INFO: email worldtour@gamberorosso.it

beijing

21 APRIL 2015

in the Four Seasons Hotel. Italian food specialties will be meticulously prepared by Marco Calenzo, resident chef of Mio Restaurant. In both Taipei and Beijing, Marco Sabellico and Lorenzo Ruggeri, senior and junior editors of the Vini d’Italia guide, will lead three in-depth seminars. Gambero Rosso has ITZMILa X]JTQ[PML Å^M MLQ\QWV[ of the Chinese version of the Vini d’Italia guide, while the Tre Bicchieri events of Hong Kong and Shanghai have become classics. Lorenzo Ruggeri and a cameraman will travel for 20 days between Taipei and Beijing \W KIX\]ZM [\WZQM[ ÆI^W]Z[ IVL local specialties, visiting nighttime markets and even a plantation of Alishan High Mountain <MI WVM WN \PM ÅVM[\ IVL UW[\ complex oolongs in the world. Lorenzo will share reports and videos of his travels with you in the months to come.

ITALIANS ABROAD

PINO POSTERARO Alta cucina in Vancouver

Pino Posteraro was born in Lago, in Calabria. He studied in Torino and Pisa before going abroad to Singapore and then Toronto. His Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill opened in Vancouver in 1999. Today it is without a doubt one of the best M`IUXTM[ WN K]KQVI Q\ITQIVI W]\[QLM \PM JWW\ ¹5a cooking has an Italian-Mediterranean soul, with a large percentage of the products I use coming from Italy. But I also believe in using local products,” Pino said. The key word is sustainable, whethMZ Q\¼[ [IJTMÅ[P or fresh halibut, or spotted prawns (soon to be in season). In 2013, Posteraro received a Gambero Rosso Sua Eccellenza Italia award as an authentic ambassador of Italian quality. His cooking focuses on fresh ingredients, especially vegetables, on natural, short cooking, simple preparations and light sauces. At the base

are good extra-virgin olive oils and attention to detail in both dining room and kitchen. He ages his own cured meats (try the spicy salame calabrese). Among the great classics are risotto with mushrooms or lobster and his Veal Ossobuco alla Milanese. Among his latest additions to the menu are mascarpone ravioli with calamari and Sardinian JW\\IZOI ¹1 TQSM to pair two different wines that have the same sa^WZa XZWÅTM []KP as Vermentino di Capichera and Pinot Bianco Sirmian from Nals Margreid.” His wine list is an encyclopedia, vast and deep, and includes many great Italian and French labels as well as a rich selection of Canadian wines. ¹<PM LMUIVL for indigenous varieties is very strong, and clients look for Italian wines that have a strong identity.” Pay him a visit, and Italy will seem a lot closer.

22 APRIL 2015

E VIDEO WATCH TH

Celebrate with Valdo your best moments visiting Italy. Enjoy a glass of Oro Puro at home to live again those great sensations.

Since1926, Valdo Prosecco Superiore is produced in the magnificent wineyards of Valdobbiadene, one hour from Venice. It represents a pure expression of made in Italy quality and of the Italian taste and lifestyle.

info@valdo.com valdo.com

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EXPERIMENTATION IN THE VINEYARD

by Andrea Gabbrielli photos by Francesco Vignali

We tasted the wines of the future â&#x20AC;&#x201C; those that are not yet on the market but that exist in the laboratory â&#x20AC;&#x201C; together with two experts, Lucio Brancadoro from the University of Milano and Eugenio Sartori, director of Vivai Cooperativi di Rauscedo, a major nursery in Friuli. The wines were made from grapes that are not subject to attacks of powdery mildew or downy mildew. They require few annual treatments and give good, sustainable wines. 24 APRIL 2015

THE WINES

OF THE FUTURE

25 APRIL 2015

EXPERIMENTATION IN THE VINEYARD

hat wines will we drink in the years \W KWUM' Grapevines already changed at the end of the 19th century: phylloxera destroyed almost every vine in Europe. The plants, too, had to change, grafted on American root stock resistant to the aphid. Today, however, new experiments are once again modifying the vine and grape variety panorama, thanks to experiments KIZZQML W]\ QV \PM ÅMTL )UWVO these, an important one, already quite advanced, is being carried out by the Vivai (plant nursery) of Rauscedo, in Friuli, with the objective of ‘building’ plants that are more resistant both to disease and to varying climates. The wines are not yet on the market. The grapes have been grafted on rootstock, still unauthorized, that is not Vitis vinifera, the only legitimate one for wine production. But soon, such wines will probably be on our shelves. The wine we drink today (sangiovese, trebbiano, merlot, cabernet...) comes from Vitis vinifera subspecies sativa, the only one permitted in the European Union for the production of denomination of origin wines. There are, however, numerous other equally important species for viticulture such as Vitis labrusca that is used for making wine in its area of origin, North America. Like rupestris, riparia and berlandieri, all American, it is also used as rootstock because it is resistant to phylloxera.

1828

Aramon 1860

Aramon

1850

Vitis rupestris 1886

Petit Bouschet

Alicante Ganzin 1890

Seibel 2510

Vitis vinifera Couderc 272 - 60

1930

Seibel 4995

Seibel 4986

Freiburg

Riesling

1952

Ruländer Freiburg

FR 375 - 52

1960

Seyve Villard 5 - 276 Merzling

26 APRIL 2015

Alicante Bouschet

Piquepoul

Teinturier du Cher

1882

Merzling and Bronner genealogical tree (from 1828) Vitis rupestris

Grenache Vitis vinifera Vitis rupestris

Vitis linsecumii

Vitis rupestris

Vitis vinifera

1890

Seibel 405

Seibel 2007

Soviet Union

PrĂŠcoce de Malingre Vitis amurensis

Soviet Union

Sejanez Malengra

Soviet Union

Saperavi

Severnyi

Czechoslovakia

Saperavi Severnyi Freiburg

1975

Gm 64 - 94 27

Bronner

APRIL 2015

Sankt Laurent

Vitis vinifera

Vitis linsecumii

EXPERIMENTATION IN THE VINEYARD

Vinifera or hybrid? S. 4199

S. 4595

Hybrids In the 1830s, two French viticulturists, Louis Bouschet de Bernard and his son Henri – the same of the Alicante Bouschet variety common in Tuscany and Sardinia – obtained the ÅZ[\ VI\]ZIT PaJZQL[ WN OZIXM[ originating in Ontario, Delaware and in Catawba Indian territory. For hybrid, we mean a cross between species of different grapevines, for example between Vitis vinifera and Vitis labrusca or riparia, or aestivalis and so on. Lucio Brancadoro, Department of Agrarian and Environmental Sciences at the University of 5QTIV M`XTIQVML ¹+ZW[[QVO KIV occur spontaneously in nature or can be guided by human beings.” Work on hybrids on a large scale began around 1870 when European viticulture risked extinction due to the invasion of Phylloxera vastatrix that struck Vitis vinifera, our species of grape vine, destroying vineyards. The solu-

tion was to graft European vines onto American rootstock that was reS. 5656 sistant to the terrible aphids. In the same period, in France, hybrids like Noah, Clinto, Bacò, Isabella and Seyve Villard emerged, from which it was possible to make wine, although the quality was questionable. These grapes had as a positive aspect, resistance to phylloxera, downy mildew, and powdery mildew, but had a ‘foxy’ taste, that is, a marked wild and Concord grape ÆI^WZ <PMZM _I[ IT[W I []J[\IVtial presence of methyl alcohol that formed naturally during NMZUMV\I\QWV ¹7^MZ \QUM \PM[M problems were resolved by repeating the crossbreeding until the problems were eliminated, yet the variety still maintained resistance to disease,” Brancadoro said. In fact, to achieve a new variety or species through crossbreeding, it is necessary to 28 APRIL 2015

Aramo noir

V. rupestris V. lincecumii

S. 4199

Aramon dg

Rayon d

Seyval

PROF. LUCIO BRANCADORO

S. 405

d’or

Riesling

Pinot gris

Seyanets M.

Zarya Severa

Muscat O.

Merzling

Gm 6493

Solaris

C. Sauvignon

Cabernet Cortis

29 APRIL 2015

V. amurensis

stabilize its characteristics by means of successive crosses, a long, complex process requiring XI\QMVKM ¹<PM ^IZQM\QM[ WJtained by means of this technique,” the professor pointed W]\ ¹TQSM ITT KPQTLZMV PI^M characteristics that are intermediate between the two parents. In this case, thanks to the American species, they are resistant to the principal grape maladies, downy and powdery mildew.”

EXPERIMENTATION IN THE VINEYARD

New resistant varieties (white grapes) ml/100 ml methyl alcohol max 0,20 0,18 0,16 0,14 0,12 0,10 0,08 0,06 0,06 0,04 0,03 0,04 0,02 0,00

2012 2013 2014

0,08 0,05

Fleurtai 34-111

The resistant varieties of today In the 1980s, many research institutes dedicated themselves to the creation of new hybrids with the intention of enhancing the positive characteristics of Vitis vinifera. In 1988, the University of Udine founded a crossbreeding program using conventional methods in order to obtain grape varieties with high winemaking potential. In 2006, the Institute of Applied Genomics was founded and breeding programs _MZM QV\MV[QÅML I[ _MZM \PM IOZQcultural and enologic evaluations of the already developed grape ^IZQM\QM[ ¹<PM VM_ ^QVM[ º [IQL Eugenio Sartori, director of the Vivai Cooperativi di Rauscedo (VCR), where they were grown, ¹KWV\IQV W^MZ ! WN \PM >Q\Q[ vinifera genome and only a small residue of the genome of the

0,05 0,03

0,03

0,06 0,04 0,04

0,01

Soreli 34-113

Early Sauvignon 76-026

Petit Sauvignon 55-098

0,03

0,04 0,02

Sauvignon Doré 55-100

WHERE THE HYBRIDS ARE In the ex-Soviet Union, hybrids accounted for more than 100,000 hectares. In Romania, cold-resistant varieties were created (Severny Saperavi,Viorica, Riton, Citron). The largest surfaces, however, have always been in France, with 400,000 hectares (Source: Galet, 1979). Immediately after World War II, the scarcity of fungicides and the economic crisis favored maintaining the hybrids for the production of Vin de table and Vin de pays. This continued until 1988, when consumption dropped as did exports to the United States. The hybrids became an easy target for legislators and European Union contributions encouraged the destruction of 320,000 hectares in the south of France. In Germany, Hibernal supplied a high quality cultivar with the characteristics of its Riesling parent, while the Federal Institute of Vine Genetics in Geilweilerhof produced important new-generation hybrids such as Regent (a cross between Chambourcin and Diana grapes). Since the parents are very disease-resistant, Regent doesn’t require any treatments and is particularly suited for organQK IOZQK]T\]ZM ;QVKM !! /MZUIV I]\PWZQ\QM[ PI^M KTI[[QÅML Q\ I[ MY]IT \W >Q\Q[ ^QVQNMZI IVL [QVKM \PMV Q\ Q[ WNÅKQITTa ZMKWOVQbML NWZ quality wine production and is now planted on about 2,000 hectares. In general, many varieties are already ‘legal’, having predominant Vinifera blood: Prior, Johanniter, Cabernet cortis, Solaris in Austria, Germany and the Czech Republic. These varieties are also grown in Moldavia, Sweden, Denmark and England. In the United States, the presence of hybrids (Chardonel, Chambourcin, Vignoles Traminette, Norton, etc.) is particularly developed in certain states: Illinois 82%, Minnesota 88%, Missouri 78%, and others.

30 APRIL 2015

New resistant varieties (red grapes) ml/100 ml methyl alcohol max 0,25 0,20

0,18

0,17

0,19

0,19 0,14

0,15

2012 2013 2014

0,23 0,19

0,16

0,19 0,16

0,16 0,16 0,13

0,12

0,15

0,10 0,05 0,00

Petit Cabernet 58-083

Royal Cabernet 32-078

Royal Merlot 31-125

Vitis that is resistant to disease.” These resistant genes, in our case, came from a limited number of American (3) and Asian [XMKQM[ ¹?M JMTQM^M \PI\ \Wday, thanks to the resistant varieties of the latest generation,” ;IZ\WZQ INÅZUML ¹_M KIV XTIV\ vineyards that besides excellent performance in terms of quality, also offer high environmental sustainability.” In fact, compared to a ‘normal’ vine, a couple of \ZMI\UMV\[ XMZ aMIZ IZM []NÅKQMV\ compared to the usual 8 or 10 or more required. The savings are sizable (about 3,000 euros per hectare) and the impact on the environment is reduced, ideal for WZOIVQK IOZQK]T\]ZM ¹<PM[M VM_ vine varieties could be planted by wineries that are most sensitive to sustainability issues,” concluded Sartori. In Italy in 2009, a number of grapes – Bronner, Regent, 31 APRIL 2015

Petit Merlot 31-122

Julius 36-030

Cabernet Cortis, Cabernet Carbon, Helios, Johanniter, Prior and Solaris – were registered in the National Catalogue as Vinifera, while ten more are in the process WN JMQVO I]\PWZQbML ¹<WLIa \PM problem is more cultural than legislative,” Brancadoro pointed W]\ ¹<PM -]ZWXMIV =VQWV Z]TM[ for wine grapes allows for the inclusion of other vines beside those that are Vitis vinifera, such as those derived from crossbreeding, where cultivation has shown that they are suitable.” He added, ¹<PM WJRMK\Q^M Q[ VW\ \W ]X[M\ \PM ampelographic platform of the Italian vineyard, nor to put up for discussion the pyramid of quality of the denominations. It is rather to propose to grapegrowers new varieties suitable for the production of table wines and IGT labels. For DOC wines, we’ll see in the future.”

EXPERIMENTATION IN THE VINEYARD

EUGENIO SARTORI

LU AN WILL LO M E

The tasting

)TT \PM _QVM[ QV W]Z \I[\QVO IZM \PM ZM[]T\ WN UQKZW^QVQÅKI\QWV[ UILM NZWU IJW]\ SQTW[ WN OZIXM[ IVL KIZZQML W]\ QV [UITT [\IQVTM[[ [\MMT \IVS[ <PM _QVM[ IZM KWV[MZ^ML QV TQ\MZ JW\\TM[ KTW[ML _Q\P KWZS[ >QVQÅKItion is standard to avoid differences between one sample and another. In the case of whites, only the free-run must is used. The vintage was 2014 for the whites and 2013 for the reds. The provenance of the grapes was: VCR plantings of Piante Madri Marze in Fossalon di Grado on the Adriatic shore. Red parents: vineyards in Chieti and Rimini.

34-111 FLEURTAI 2014 (TOCAI X 20/3)

The color is an intense straw-yellow. Aromas are fruity and spicy with delicate exotic fruit notes in the background. The palate is savory, acidity balanced and the W^MZITT ÆI^WZ PI[ ^WT]UM IVL KWV[Q[\MVKa Good length. As good as a Friulano.

34-113 SORELI 2014 (TOCAI X 20/3)

Deep straw-yellow, very intense and longlasting aromas with notes that resemble \PM ^MOM\IT WVM[ WN I ;I]^QOVWV ÅVM IVL elegant, of excellent consistency. The pleasant sensations continue in the mouth where softness prevails over savory, which is noticeable. In this case too, persistence is fairly long, with a return of fruit and vegetal sensations. Decidedly intriguing.

FRIULANO 2014

This is the ‘parent’ sample that serves as a model. It has a light straw-yellow color IVL \MV]W][ IZWUI[ _Q\P ÆWZIT IVL NZ]Q\a notes and a hint of spice. In the mouth it is pleasant, with good acidity, balanced and fairly persistent. It is a standard Friulano type.

76-026 EARLY SAUVIGNON 2014 (SAUV X 20/3)

Greenish straw-yellow with notes of tomato leaf and vegetal tones in a fairly balanced and aromatic whole. In the mouth, good volume, pleasant, immediate, good length and overall pleasantness. Very interesting.

55-098 PETIT SAUVIGNON 2014 (SAUV X 20/3)

Greenish straw-yellow with delicate aroUI[ IVL ÆWZIT VW\M[ ^MZa JITIVKML 1V \PM

TASTING PANEL

BRANCADORO GABBRIELLI LIAM PREGENTELLI ORENZO RUGGERI MARCO SABELLICO EUGENIO SARTORI CIO

mouth, good acidity and savory sensation. Fine, light, persistent. Structure is slimmer than the preceding sample and resembles a Sauvignon from the Loire valley.

55-100 SAUVIGNON DORÈ 2014 (SAUV X 20/3)

Intense greenish straw-yellow. Generous aromas with vegetal notes of tomato leaf and light spiciness. In the mouth, substance, pleasantness and long persistence _Q\P VW\M[ WV \PM ÅVQ[P [XQKa IVL ^MOM\IT again. Taking into account that it is the 2014 vintage…

SAUVIGNON 2014

The parental reference sample. Pale straw-yellow and aromas typical of the variety are fairly delicate but balanced with hints of clary sage. In the mouth, simple, correct, with some acidity. Fairly persistent. A Sauvignon in the Grave del Friuli style.

31-122 PETIT MERLOT 2013 (MERLOT X 20/3)

Intense ruby color. Aromas with evident herbaceous sensations but also well-delineated berries. In the mouth, structured, warm alcohol and evident tannin that tends to the astringent. Persistent, with a return of berries. At this stage of its evolution it is more for blending.

31-125 ROYAL MERLOT 2013 (MERLOT X 20/3)

Intense and deep ruby red. An intense nose of berries, slightly over-ripe. In the mouth, tannins are pronounced but also sweet. The wine is soft, also spicy, warm _Q\P ITKWPWT XMZ[Q[\MV\ *M[QLM[ \PM QVÆ]ence of the vintage year, it presents interesting characteristics.

NDREA

APRIL 2015

MERLOT 2013 (CLONE 181)

The parent, from the Chieti zone, is very alcoholic with evident cooked aromas and ÆI^WZ[ IVL MI[QTa VW\QKMIJTM ^WTI\QTM IKQLity. The hot vintage year makes itself felt.

58-083 PETIT CABERNET 2013 (CAB.SAUV X 20-3)

A very concentrated ruby color with a slight hint of over-ripeness on the nose in an overall picture of balance among NZ]Q\a ÆWZIT IVL [XQKa VW\M[ ;\Z]K\]ZML QV the mouth, with tannins, although important, that tend to be sweet. The wine is persistent and pleasant.

32-078 ROYAL CABERNE (CAB.SAUV X 20-3)

Very intense ruby color. Important and generous on the nose with a good texture of spices and berries. On the palate, the tannin has impact and tends to dry the mouth. More possibilities on the nose KWUXIZML \W \PM ÆI^WZ

CABERNET SAUVIGNON (CLONE R5)

Standard sample for a reference. Classic intense ruby color. Nose is balanced and typical of the variety. Good intensity in the mouth, balanced tannins, persistent.

36-030 JULIUS 2014 (REGENT X 20/3)

Medium-intense ruby. On the nose, hints of Peruvian bark, rhubarb and medicinal herbs. In the mouth, medium structure, easy to drink, fairly persisten with a return of rhubarb on the ÅVQ[P 1\ Q[ \PM UW[\ »PaJZQL¼ IUWVO ITT those tasted, even if the 2014 was certainly not an advantage.

EXPERIMENTATION IN THE VINEYARD

The vineyard of biodiversity Claudio Quarta «Incrementable development»

ustainability and research. We call on the experience of Claudio Quarta, researcher and entrepreneur in organic grapegrowing. First he was with Tenute Eméra in Lizzano (TA), in Puglia, then with Sanpaolo in Campania (Tre Bicchieri for his Greco di Tufo 2012), then again in Puglia in Guagnano with Moros: a winery, a vineyard, a wine, Salice Salentino. He has had a full-circle of experience with Italian and foreign universities, and is committed to the ever-growing group of entrepreneurial winemakers involved in constant exchanges of ideas and projects. What does sustainable development mean? It means development that theoZM\QKITTa KW]TL OW WV QVÅVQ\MTa But it doesn’t mean leaving future generations in the same place _M JMOIV <PI\ Q[V¼\ []NÅKQMV\ We have to take a leap forward. That’s possible thanks to research that contributes to the improvement of the starting point, not only by discovering new things, but also by rethinking old tools. More than sustainability, I like to talk about incrementable development, offering future generations more opportunities through [KQMV\QÅK LM^MTWXUMV\ IVL ZMsearch. Sustainability doesn’t only concern the environment, but it touches on other fundamental

aspects that are economic and social – like the apexes of a triangle. If we focus only on incrementing one of these points, the structure collapses. It’s essential that everything is balanced. Incrementability permits an organic growth of the three aspects. How did the vineyard of diversity begin? The vineyard of biodiversity started in 2009, in collaboration with the University of Milano, with professors Attilio Scienza and Osvaldo Failla. In my Pugliese estate, Tenute Eméra, around Casino Nitti, over three years we planted 500 neglected 34 APRIL 2015

varieties coming from the plateau of the Caucasus, the Mediterranean basin, from countries like Tunisia, Egypt, Syria, and from Italy itself. We did a screening, measuring pH, sugars and carZaQVO W]\ UQKZW^QVQÅKI\QWV[ )TT this was useful in preserving the richness of biodiversity and selecting new, interesting varieties \W LM^MTWX <PM ZM[]T\[ WN \PM ÅZ[\ selection are extremely interesting, although preliminary. What other directions is research taking? Winegraft is a project that involves some of the most important Italian wineries. They de-

ITY BIL RE

STA

NT AB

INA

BIL

ITY

STA

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environmental

INC

KQLML \W ÅVIVKM ZM[MIZKP \PI\ began with the spin-off Ipad Lab of the University of Milano, coordinated by Attilio Scienza. In 1879, phylloxera began attacking Italian vineyards. The only solution seemed to be to graft vines onto American rootstock that was resistant to the parasite. It was the quickest way to satisfy an urgent need, but little attention was paid to the quality of the solutions. Today, with climate changes taking place, innovations in growing vines and the market’s new demand for quality, a new phase is necessary. In the 1980s a project of genetic improvement of rootstock capable of responding to various challenges began. The ÅZ[\ ZM[]T\[ _Q\P \PM NW]Z ZWW\stocks called ‘series M’ showed not only more resistance to disease, but also a better response to drought and to iron chlorosis. Each rootstock reacts in a different way to the variety grafted and the soil on which it is grown, leaving space for experimentation that in the future will lead to more focused and accurate selection. It is important to specify that this experimentation does not call for molecular biology. It is based on natural grafts that are only examined at the molecular level in the laboratory. The new rootstocks are already available commercially from Vivai Cooperativi di :I][KMLW IVL VM`\ aMIZ \PM ÅZ[\ results will be harvested on my ÅMTL[ <PQ[ Q[ IVW\PMZ \WWT NWZ XZWducing wines of better quality that ZMÆMK\ \PM \MZZQ\WZa <PI\¼[ _PI\ sustainability is: science, research, knowledge and innovation.

social

economic

CLAUDIO QUARTA WITH HIS DAUGHTER ALESSANDRA, WHO WORKS WITH HIM IN THE WINERY

William Pregentelli collaborated 35 APRIL 2015

ANTEPRIMA GAMBERO OLI D’ITALIA ROSSO 2015

Classic wines meet their match

Selected wineries from Gambero Rosso’s Anteprima event

37 APRIL 2015

ANTEPRIMA OLI D’ITALIA GAMBERO 2015 ROSSO

TENUTA CARRETTA

BARONE PIZZINI

www.tenutacarretta.it ROERO ARNEIS CAYEGA 2014 The Miroglio family distinguished itself for years in the textile sector, and since 1985, it has been known for wine production on its Tenuta Carretta estate. Located between Roero and Langhe, the estate has over 35 hectares of vineyard. Two and half of these hectares are dedicated to the prestigious Barolo cru, Cannubi. +IaMOI Q[ I ÅVM :WMZW )ZVMQ[ _Q\P I UQVMZIT XZWÅTM KWUXTM` and full in the mouth. With its notes of candied lemon peel and aromatic herbs, it is perfect when paired with seafood salad and amazing with cheeses, in particular fresh herb-infused varieties.

PODERE BIGNOLINO

PIOBESI D’ALBA (CN)

PROVAGLIO D’ISEO (BS) www.baronepizzini.it FRANCIACORTA ANIMANTE BRUT One of the pioneer wineries of Franciacorta, Barone Pizzini, besides offering great quality all along its range of releases, has for years been on the front lines of sustainability and organic farming. Animante Brut is a new label. Prevalently chardonnay with some pinot nero and pinot bianco, it has aromas of white fruit and citrus fruit, while it is crisp and savory in the mouth. Pairing it with culatello di Zibello may not be a surprise, but it’s amazing even with mortadella.

MONTALTO PAVESE – BRONI (PV) www.poderebignolino.it OLTREPÒ PAVESE BARBERA COSTA BERCÈ 2012 This estate’s history began in 1880 when the Contardi NIUQTa XTIV\ML Q\[ ÅZ[\ ^QVMaIZL[ QV 7T\ZMX <WLIa \PM tradition is still alive in the work of Cirillo Contardi, whose wines IZM ÆI_TM[[ I]\PMV\QK IVL ZMÅVML *ITIVKML IVL _MTT executed tannin along _Q\P I ÅVM IKQLQK JIKSbone are the perfect attributes for pairing with the typical cured meat, salame di Varzi, an unmissable territorial match.

CUVAGE

ACQUI TERME (AL) www.cuvage.com CUVAGE BRUT ROSÉ Two hundred hectares of vineyard supply this winery established in 2011. Cuvage produces only spumante made with the Metodo Classico, both from international varieties – Pinot and Chardonnay – and the most prestigious Piedmontese grapes, cortese and nebbiolo. Brut Rosé is a monovarietal VMJJQWTW" ÅVM IVL XMZ[Q[\MV\ J]JJTM[ QV\MV[M IVL ZQKP IZWUI[ \PI\ ZIVOM NZWU JMZZQM[ \W ÆW_MZ[ :Q[W\\W _Q\P shrimp is its perfect table companion.

38 APRIL 2015

CONTE COLLALTO

PODERE SAPAIO

SUSEGANA (TV) www.cantine-collalto.it WILDBACHER 2011

CASTAGNETO CARDUCCI (LI) www.sapaio.it BOLGHERI VOLPOLO 2012 Massimo Piccin, an engineer from the Veneto, bought the vineyards of Volpaia and Sapaia in 1999. Since then, he has managed to spotlight their crus, releasing a restricted range of wines that interpret the great Bordeaux blends. Volpolo has no rivals for its pleasant drinkability. The aromatic XZWÅTM KMV\MZ[ WV NZ]Q\ IVL Q\[ JWLa Q[ OMVMZW][ <IVnins, still slightly aggressive, pair perfectly with succulent meats such as duck breast.

The portion of this estate devoted to vineyards amounts to 150 hectares around the elegant Conti Collalto villa. The range is wide, and the vines growing on these hills of Susegana are glera, Bordeaux varieties and incrocio Manzoni. Among \PMU _M IT[W ÅVL _QTLbacher, an indigenous grape from Austria, planted in the estate vineyards by the 18th century. Its character is a little spiky, with notes of ripe blackberries and macerated tobacco. Nervous and aggressive tannins become UW]\P ÅTTQVO IVL [WN\ _PMV XIQZML _Q\P OZQTTML UMI\[ pork in particular.

VILLA VIGNAMAGGIO

GREVE IN CHIANTI (FI) www.vignamaggio.com CHIANTI CL. GRAN SELEZIONE MONNA LISA RIS. 2011 A historic residence built in the 14th century, belonging to the family of Lisa Gherardini, the famous La Gioconda, or Mona Lisa by Leonardo Da Vinci, is the focal point of an estate that makes a good starting point for exploring the territory and viticulture of Chianti. The Monna Lisa Riserva is a juicy wine with great personality. Berry aroUI[ LMÅVM Q\[ KPIZacter, which in the mouth is full, long and warm, suited to \PM [\ZWVO ÆI^WZ WN roast squab.

CANTINE VALLE ISARCO

CHIUSA (BZ) www.cantinavalleisarco.it A.A. VALLE ISARCO SYLVANER ARISTOS 2013 A large Alto Adige cooperative winery founded in 1961, it has 130 members contributing their grapes. Sylvaner Aristos is savory and austere, enlivened by elegant acidity, with a range of appealing aromas, fruity at ÅZ[\ J]\ \PMV UW^QVO \W_IZL[ white pepper and mountain herbs, notes that happily MVPIVKM \PM ÆI^WZ[ WN I[paragus risotto..

39 APRIL 2015

ANTEPRIMA OLI D’ITALIA GAMBERO 2015 ROSSO

BADIA DI MORRONA

UMANI RONCHI

LA BANDITA E LUNADORO

CANTINE SAN MARZANO

TERRICCIOLA (PI) www.badiadimorrona.it CHIANTI I SODI DEL PARETAIO 2012 Since 1939, the Gaslini Alberti family has been on the front lines of wine production in Tuscany. Their 110 hectares of vineyard, half of which are sangiovese, also grow international varieties such as syrah and merlot. This wine is a typical expression of Chianti, fragrant and elegant, very versatile and therefore suitable for pairing even with seafood dishes such as \PM 4Q^WZVM[M Å[P [W]X KIKKQ]KKW

OSIMO (AN) www.umanironchi.com VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL.PLENIO RIS.2012 A solid and continually growing winery. Umani Ronchi has always focused on indigenous varieties, producing labels that express its territory’s characteristics. Plenio is one of these, a fresh and penetrating Verdicchio with notes of ripe fruit and almonds underlined by fresh aromatic herbs. The velvety and rich body make it an ideal companion NWZ OZQTTML Å[P LQ[PM[ or seafood soups such as brodetto all’anconetana.

VALIANO DI MONTEPULCIANO (SI) www.lunadoro.com VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2012 Dario Cappelli and Gigliola Cardinali’s story started in Val d’Orcia, but with the purchase of the Pagliareto winery, they began production of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The 2012 vintage proves to be complex and intriguing, with sensations of ripe plums and black pepper. Sweet and dense tannin along with dynamic acidity give this wine perfect structure and character, ideal for pairing with a classic Tuscan mushroom soup.

SAN MARZANO DI SAN GIUSEPPE (TA) www.cantinesanmarzano.com PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA ANNIVERSARIO 62 RIS. 2011 San Marzano is a cooperative with over 1,200 members. To its traditional work in the vineyard it joins modern winemaking facility techniques, but without compromising the natural richness of the territory. Anniversario 62 is a Primitivo with notes of plums and cherry jam, tobacco and light spices. Its soft tannin and great body makes it the classic wine for red meats and game.

40 APRIL 2015

LEONE DE CASTRIS

SALICE SALENTINO (LE) www.leonedecastris.com FIVE ROSES 71Â° ANNIVERSARIO 2014 This is one of the historic wineries of not only Puglia, but also Italy as a whole. The XZWL]K\QWV WN 1\ITaÂź[ Ă&#x2026;Z[\ ZW[u the famous Five Roses, dates back \W ! ;\QTT \WLIa Q\ Q[ \PM Ă&#x2020;IO JMIZMZ for a range of wines that show off the sterling work carried on throughout the years. The 2014 version unfurls aromas of blueberries and red currants. Its fresh acidity and excellent structure go perfectly with the savory maZQVM Ă&#x2020;I^WZ WN I XTI\M WN [XIOPM\\Q _Q\P [MI ]ZKPQV[

AGRICOLE VALLONE

LECCE www.agricolevallone.it BRINDISI ROSSO V. FLAMINIO RIS. 2009 The Vallone family winery is of great importance in Puglia, both for its long history, dating from 1924, and for its faithful interpretation of regional winemaking traditions. From negroamaro and montepulciano, Vigna Flaminio Riserva is a red of good intensity, its complex fruity and spicy notes harmonious on the palate, with good acidic backbone. Red meats are the most classic pairing, but the wine is also amazing with aged cheeses such as caciocavallo, provolone and ragusano.

ALLIATA

TRAPANI www.alliatavini.com TAYA 2013 A family tradition of almost 200 years is alive today thanks to

the rediscovery of the territory through wines that link the estateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history to innovation and the production of bottles that evoke Sicily. An example is Taya 2013, a monovarietal grillo, with a wide spectrum of aromas of tropical fruit and appealing salinity. The exotic tones of the aromas and the minerality of the structure make it suitable for pairing with sushi and sashimi.

BAGLIO DEL CRISTO

DI CAMPOBELLO CAMPOBELLLO DI LICATA (AG) www.cristodicampobello.it Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CRISTO DI CAMPOBELLO 2014 The Bonetta family is proudly tied to the values of peasant tradition. Their vineyards grow on calcareouschalky soil a few kilometers from the sea at the Gulf of Gela. Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is a blend of grillo, chardonnay, insolia IVL KI\IZZI\\W OZIXM[ \PI\ Q[ ZQKP QV aMTTW_ Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ IVL white melon on the nose, while in the mouth it is pleasIV\Ta [I^WZa IVL NZM[P <PM Ă&#x2026;VQ[P M^WSM[ [XQKM[ IVL IZWmatic herbs. Perfect with sautĂŠed clams.

FIRRIATO

PACECO (TP) www.firriato.it ETNA ROSSO CAVANERA ROVO DELLE COTURNIE 2011 Today Firriato is a mosaic of terroirs distributed in Sicilian districts that are very different one from the other, in both geographic positions and cultural traditions. Rovo delle Coturnie comes from Etna and its aromas express the volcanoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s presence in notes of iron and minerals. The nose then opens on berry tones, underlined by nutmeg. The wine shows notable persistence and personality, suitable for pairing with pork chops with rosemary and thyme.

OLI D’ITALIA BEST BUYS 2015

Umbria’s top under 10€

42 APRIL 2015

wines Umbria has always offered us a slew of trustworthy, high-quality Berebene wines with great personality. So itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not news that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find many labels here that are noteworthy and can cheerfully be added to your shopping list. Prices are those in Italian wine shops. 43 MARCH APRIL 2015 2015

BERE OLI BENE D’ITALIA : BEST BUYS 2015

Todi Rosso Melograno ’12,

We were never kind about the Grechetto made by Antonelli, at least not until a few vintages ago. But now we have to recognize, especially in the last two years, that the growth in this variety has been incredible. The picture is now complete with this label worthy of its place alongside the house’s usual great reds and its surprising Trebbiano Spoletino. Taste, precision, intensity. A white worth trying. PAIRING: Very good with octopus salad and black olives.

ROCCAFIORE FRAZ.

CHIOANO | VOC. COLLINA 110A TODI (PG) | TEL. 075/8942416 |WWW.ROCCAFIOREWINES. COM | PRICE 8.10 EUROS

<PQ[ Q[ VW TWVOMZ VM_[ :WKKIÅWZM Q[ by now a winery known to the bestinformed wine drinkers, especially those who are looking for bottles that marry clean agriculture, style and originality. For a while we underlined the quality of the house’s whites, but in the last vintages, they have been releasing better and better reds. Take Melograno, for example, a truly seductive Sangiovese with a percentage of Montepulciano. A palish red with a garnet rim, earthy notes \PI\ PQV\ I\ TMI\PMZ IVL ZWW\[ R]QKa [MZQW][ ÆI^WZ Don’t miss out on this little masterpiece. PAIRING: Delicious with veal scaloppini and porcini mushrooms.

Orvieto ’13, ARGILLAE LOC. POMARRO, 45 ALLERONA (TR) | TEL. 0763/624604 | WWW.ARGILLAE.EU | PRICE 7.60 EUROS

There aren’t many wineries capable of making an Orvieto this convincing. Argillae has gotten us accustomed to its exploits, and we KIV [INMTa LMÅVQ\MTa ZMKWUUMVL this tasty bottle to lovers of white wines. Unlike the dry, commercial versions that often plague this denomination, the Argillae Orvieto is brilliant, lively, winning, rich in aromatic tones. A modern wine \PI\ XZM[MV\[ I ÅVM KWV\MUXWZIZa perspective on the terroir. PAIRING: Try it alongside linguine with seafood.

Montefalco Rosso ’10, ADANTI VIA

BELVEDERE, 2 BEVAGNA (PG) | TEL. 0742/360295 | | PRICE 10.00 EUROS

WWW.CANTINEADANTI.COM

A decidedly classic winery, dedicated to the most authentic local tradition. Adanti wines emanate a particular charm, both top of the line bottles and the basic, everyday range. Among the most territory-tied, a Montefalco Rosso of incomparable elegance stands out, with its fruity, earthy tones, enlivened with hints of roots and spices. A long, light-hearted mouthful. PAIRING: Goes well with gnocchi with meat sauce.

Strozzavolpe ’13, BIGI LOC.

PONTE GIULIO ORVIETO (TR) | TEL. 0763/315888 | | PRICE 8.10 EUROS

WWW.CANTINEBIGI.IT

This one isn’t a surprise. Bigi, a ÅZU \PI\ JMTWVO[ \W \PM /Z]XXW Italiano Vini, has been a regular in our Berebene list for years. They know how to make excellent wines at affordable prices. Once again our preference goes to Strozzavolpe, a Grechetto with austere and intriguing

Colli Martani Grechetto’13, ANTONELLI - SAN MARCO LOC.

SAN MARCO, 60 MONTEFALCO (PG) | TEL. 0742/379158 | WWW.ANTONELLISANMARCO.IT | PRICE 7.60 EUROS

44 APRIL 2015

Orvieto Cl. Sup. Poggio Calvelli ’13,

tones that the 2013 vintage has made particularly tasty. On the nose, aromas of quince, while the palate displays refreshing citrusy sensations. PAIRING: A Grechetto that would enhance tuna tartare.

LA CARRAIA LOC.

TORDIMONTE, 56 ORVIETO (TR) | TEL. 0763/304013 | WWW.LACARRAIA.IT | PRICE 8.20 EUROS

05035 Narni Rosso ’13, LEONARDO BUSSOLETTI

Poggio Calvelli ’13 is so good! Even if that’s not exactly a surprise, it’s worth drawing attention to a wine that shows more authority and elegance each year. The most recent release has notes of citrus fruit and white peach, with a bay leaf tone in the background that provides refreshing, balsamic sensations. The palate is fresh, coherent and wellsupported by notable pulp and excellent depth. PAIRING: Enhance it with a savory speck and ricotta pie.

S.DA

DELLE PRETARE, 62 NARNI (TR) | TEL. 0744/715687 | WWW.LEONARDOBUSSOLETTI. IT | PRICE 8.40 EUROS

The unusual name of this wine refers to the Narni zip code, underscoring its tie to its own territory, the terroir and its principal varieties. The line includes a white and a red, the latter from indigenous ciliegiolo grapes. It is I LMTQKQW][ MVMZOM\QK _QVM _Q\P ÆWZIT IVL JMZZa notes. Fragrant and juicy in the mouth, it is very MI[a \W LZQVS J]\ N]TT WN ÆI^WZ PAIRING: Excellent with roast chicken and potatoes.

Grechetto ’13, CHIORRI LOC. SANT’ENEA | VIA TODI, 100 PERUGIA (PG) | TEL. 075/607141 | WWW.CHIORRI.IT | PRICE 7.60 EUROS

Fresh, but still its typically sunny self, pulpy and substantial, with spirit. This describes Mariotti Tito’s Grechetto ‘13. He is a meticulous grapegrower who cultivates his vineyards on Colli Perugini in a wonderful natural landscape. Grechetto is an obsession with this winery and in fact, the results from this variety are excellent. This is a wine for sturdy palates that don’t mind a solid alcoholic component. PAIRING: Goes very well with four-cheese risotto.

Colli del Trasimeno Rile ’13, CARINI LOC.

CANNETO | FRAZ. COLLE UMBERTO S.DA DEL TEGOPERUGIA (PG) | TEL. 075/6059495 | WWW.AGRARIACARINI.IT | PRICE 8.20 EUROS LARO

Even in the context of overall high quality, demonstrated over a long period, we have to spotlight the surprising performances this year of Carini’s white wines. Not only Poggio Canneto, the historic label WN \PQ[ ÅZU J]\ IT[W :QTM PI[ I\\IQVML I ZMUIZSable level of quality. Under a delicate herbaceous vein is wonderful, ripe yellow fruit in a tasting XZWÅTM WN QUXMKKIJTM texture. PAIRING: The wine’s structure enhances sautéed clams.

Ruris Rosso ’12,

FATTORIA COLSANTO LOC.

MONTARONE BEVAGNA (PG) | TEL. 0742/360412 | WWW.LIVON.IT | PRICE 9.70 EUROS

There’s not enough talk about this winery, perhaps because it 45

APRIL 2015

OLI D’ITALIA BEST BUYS 2015

belongs to a wine family that comes from outside the zone (Livon) but Colsanto is establishing one of the most personal styles in the Sagrantino district. It is doing so a little at a time, beginning with the introduction of large traditional barrels in the productive process, and the results are really surprising. This simple Ruris, the house’s basic red wine, is amazing in 2012. It has intriguing fresh, crisp fruity notes that are ripe at the same time, []ZZW]VLML Ja V]IVKM[ WN TMI\PMZ IVL ÅVM [XQKM[ PAIRING: 1\[ QLMIT XIZ\VMZ' 4I[IOVI

Umbrian whites, with important potential not yet N]TTa M`XZM[[ML ;I[[Q L¼)ZMVIZQI ÅVM bM[\a IVL almondy, is a good example. PAIRING: A happy accompaniment for sole à la meunière.

Orvieto Cl. Belloro ’13, CUSTODI

There’s more and more talk these days about Trasimeno gamay, a grape variety that has been around this lake zone for many years and seems to belong to the large and complex family of grenache. It is an interesting grape that deserves closer investigation and attention on the XIZ\ WN XZWL]KMZ[ )UWVO \PM ÅZ[\ \W JM\ WV Q\ was the Duca della Corgna cooperative. Etichetta Bianca, a version fermented and aged in stainless [\MMT Q[ ÆWZIT ZQKP QV XZQUIZa NZ]Q\a VW\M[ NZM[P and juicy. It closes on delicately herbaceous notes that add chiaroscuro and variations on the theme. PAIRING: Perfect with braised meats.

C. del Trasimeno Gamay Divina Villa Et. Bianca ’13, DUCA DELLA CORGNA ROMA, 236 CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO (PG) | TEL. 075/9652493 | WWW.DUCADELLACORGNA.IT | PRICE 10.00 EUROS VIA

LOC. CANALE | V.LE VENERE ORVIETO (TR) | TEL. 0763/29053 | WWW.CANTINACUSTODI.COM | PRICE 5.00 EUROS

This is always among the most interesting and reliable Orvieto Classico bottles. Let’s begin like this, with a certainty, in describing the Custodi family’s Belloro. They are committed to growing their business and raising the level of wines they produce. We are particularly attracted to this fresh, mineral white, with its hints of white peach and moss. A clever wine, with a seductive palate, ÆI^WZN]T J]\ VM^MZ \WW LMUIVLQVO PAIRING: Goes well with gnocchi with meat sauce.

Ciliegiolo di Narni Spiffero ’13,

Grechetto Sassi d’Arenaria ’12,

FATTORIA GIRO DI VENTO

DI FILIPPO

S.DA

VOC. CONVERSINO, 153 CANNARA (PG) | TEL. 0742/731242 | WWW.VINIDIFILIPPO.COM | PRICE 10.00 EUROS

COLLESPINO, 39 NARNI (TR) | TEL. 335/6136353 | | PRICE 8.10 EUROS

WWW.FATTORIAGIRODIVENTO.IT

Ten hectares of vineyard on the hills of Narni, the homeland of ciliegiolo, plus technical competence and deep devotion: the Giro di Vento winery has few secrets but well-targeted quality and style. From a generous range of products, we chose Ciliegiolo Spiffero ’13. It’s a red

In recent years we have often underscored the qualitative and stylistic growth of the Di Filippo winery’s red wines. This shouldn’t give the idea, though, WN I [QVOTM P]ML ÅZU 1\¼[ \PM WXXW[Q\M ?M ÅVL :WJMZ\W ,Q Filippo and his staff among the best interpreters of typical 46

APRIL 2015

with a light-hearted character, delicate and energetic, more intensely aromatic than it is muscular. A delightful drink. PAIRING: Very good alongside pappardelle with wild boar sauce.

white, with a wonderful array of orange blossom and white peach notes. PAIRING: Vegetal notes enhance chickpea soup.

Il Reminore ’13, MADREVITE CIMBANO, 36 CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO (PG) | TEL. 075/527220 | WWW.MADREVITE.COM |PRICE 8.40 EUROS

Vigna Maiore ’13, CANTINA LA SPINA FRAZ.

VIA

SPINA | VIA EMILIO ALESSANDRINI, 1 MARSCIANO (PG) | TEL. 075/8738120 |WWW.CANTINALASPINA.IT | PRICE 9.20 EUROS

This is Trebbiano Spoletino outside its home territory but with clear stylistic coordinates, in line with what the varietal has shown it can offer. Behold the Reminore from Madrevite, a lovely small winery in the territory, one of the most promising in the Lake Trasimeno zone. This white joins ripe-fruit aromas and hints of citrus, of candied lemons, with a light spicy \QUJZM <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ TWVO IVL [ML]K\Q^M J]\ VW\ tiring or too static. PAIRING: Good with pasta and porcini mushrooms.

Wonderful results on all fronts from this little winery, La Spina, led by bravissimo Moreno Peccia. On these pages we enthusiastically underscore the success of a new vintage of Vigna Maiore. The 2013 vintage of this Trebbiano Spoletino has an impeccable stylistic register. The VW[M LQ[XTIa[ \PM KTI[[QK IZWUI\QK XZWÅTM WN \PM variety, contrasts between ripe, almost tropical sensations and wonderful citrusy ones that are decidedly fresher and more vibrant. The palate follows the lead of the fragrances and is truly well-balanced. PAIRING: Uncork with chicken alla cacciatore.

Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino ’13, F.LLI

PARDI

GIOVANNI PASCOLI, 7/9 MONTEFALCO (PG) | TEL. 0742/379023 | WWW.CANTINAPARDI.IT | PRICE 10.00 EUROS

VIA

Torre di Giano ’13,

They make great red wines, notable NWZ \PMQZ ÅVM[[M and elegance, but the Pardi family whites also deserve notice and are among the benchmark labels in the zone. It’s no surprise, since the house works with a great bianchista grapegrower, Giovanni Dubini. For whatever reason, the Pardi’s Trebbiano Spoletino ’13 is a marvel. It has well-articulated aromas against an unmistakable mineral background, a savory palate and the vibrations of a great, central-Italian white. PAIRING: Excellent with shrimp risotto.

LUNGAROTTI V.LE

GIORGIO LUNGAROTTI, 2 TOR(PG) | TEL. 075/988661 | WWW.LUNGAROTTI.IT | PRICE 8.60 EUROS GIANO

Lungarotti does not rest on its laurels. Even a winery with the long history and the unmatchable lineage of this house in Torgiano has to face the present and undertake some updating. For a few vintage years, therefore, the blend of grapes and the IZWUI\QK XZWÅTM WN <WZZM LQ /QIVW \PM J]T_IZS WN regional white wines, has been changing. The 2013 vintage gives us a successful version, perhaps the JM[\ QV \PM VM_ LQZMK\QWV 1\ Q[ I ÆI^WZN]T IVL UMI\a 47

APRIL 2015

OLI D’ITALIA BEST BUYS 2015

Francesco Mariani is one of the most promising among the young Umbrian grapegrowers. After a quiet start, he has known how to guide his winery, Raina, in the right direction, guaranteeing development in harmony with nature and wines with great personality. The top reds are a marvel of drinkability and fragrance. Even the less important wines appear to be interesting. Here is Rosso della Gobba ’12: buy a lot of it. A red for every day, to drink with good cheer, but absolutely not banal. PAIRING: An everyday wine to serve with veal skewers, oregano and bay leaves.

Todi Grechetto Montorsolo ’13, CANTINA PEPPUCCI

LOC. SANT’ANTIMO | FRAZ. PETRORO, 4 TODI (PG) | TEL. 075/8947439 |WWW.CANTINAPEPPUCCI.COM | PRICE

9.20 EUROS

Filippo Peppucci and his family are building a very interesting project, among the best on the recent Umbrian wine scene. The splendid hills around Todi are the setting for the winery and, above all, the home for wines that are more authoritative every year. A winery in this zone obviously has to release a Grechetto, so here’s Montorsolo ’13, a juicy, artful wine with a ^MZ\QKIT XZWÅTM /WWL VW_ J]\ _M¼ZM _QTTQVO \W JM\ WV continued improvement in the bottle. PAIRING: Its savory background makes it suitable for bream baked in parchment paper.

Montefalco Rosso ’10, ROMANELLI LOC.

The 2010 vintage year was a blessed one in the Romanelli winery. In our view, the red wines from that year were majestically interpreted by this well-known house. Alongside their unmatchable Sagrantino, here is a Montefalco Rosso to celebrate. An intriguQVO _QVM ZQOP\ NZWU Q\[ IZWUI[ _Q\P ZQXM ÆI^WZ IVL elegant progression. PAIRING: Its structure allows it to stand up to succulent roast beef.

Trebbiano Spoletino ’13, PERTICAIA LOC.CASALE

COLLE SAN CLEMENTE 129A | MONTEFALCO (PG) | TEL. 347/9065613 | WWW.ROMANELLI.SE | PRICE 10.00 EUROS

| MONTEFALCO (PG) | TEL. 0742/379014 | | PRICE 9.20 EUROS

WWW.PERTICAIA.IT

Perticaia and its principal leader, Guido Guardigli, have long been believers in trebbiano spoletino, an ancient grape variety now enjoying a new heyday. ?Q\PW]\ PM[Q\I\QWV _M KIV INÅZU \PI\ WVM WN \PM best interpretations in the zone comes from this winery in Casale di Montefalco. The tasting of old ^QV\IOM[ [PW_ML Q\ IVL \PM VM_ ^QV\IOM[ KWVÅZU it. The 2013 has a lot going for it, starting with the usual aromatic intensity and a citrusy impact that distinguishes it on the palate. PAIRING: 1\ MVPIVKM[ ÅTTM\ WN JZIVbQVW OZI\QVu

Assisi Rosso ’13, SPORTOLETTI LOC.

CAPITAN LORETO | LOMBARDIA, 1 SPELLO (PG) | TEL. 0742/651461 | WWW.SPORTOLETTI.COM | PRICE 6.70 EUROS VIA

A constant presence in our Berebene listings, the Sportoletti winery’s Assisi Rosso made it in again this year. The 2013 vintage is characterized by a more

Rosso della Gobba ’12, RAINA LOC.

TURRI | VIA CASE SPARSE, 42 MONTEFALCO (PG) | TEL. 0742/621356 | WWW.RAINA.IT | PRICE 6.40 EUROS

48 APRIL 2015

LMTQKI\M XZWÅTM J]\ Q[ MY]ITTa ZQKP QV IZWUI\QK sensations. An enjoyable red, stylistically precise, it is embroidered with black and red berry aromas and enlivened with a wonderful balsamic, slightly herbaceous vein. PAIRING: A red to enjoy with thinly-sliced beef strips, straccetti.

PAIRING: Try it with fettuccine with zucchini and mint.

Il Padrone delle Vigne ’13, GIAMPAOLO

A splendid winery in the Orvieto zone. Le Velette has a varied terroir, typical for its area. All the wines from this historic house are very convincing, but we spotlight the noteworthy level achieved by Accordo ’10. Not WVTa Q[ \PM VW[M ÅVMTa NZ]Q\a _Q\P _WVLMZN]T ÆWZIT notes, but the palate is delicate and rich in spicy V]IVKM[ ) ZMUIZSIJTa LMMX ÅVQ[P PAIRING: It goes wonderfully well with meatloaf and arugula salad.

Accordo ’10, TENUTA LE VELETTE FRAZ.

CANALE DI ORVIETO | LOC. LE VELETTE, 23 ORVI(TR) | TEL. 0763/29090 |WWW.LEVELETTE.IT | PRICE 10.00 EUROS ETO

TABARRINI

FRAZ.

TURRITA MONTEFALCO (PG) | TEL. 0742/379351 | WWW.TABARRINI.COM | PRICE 7.60 EUROS

Padrone delle Vigne is still at the top of its game. The 2013 vintage year OI^M ][ I [TMVLMZ ÅVM IVL KZQ[X ZML precise and easy to drink. The Tabarrini style, which, in its top labels, focuses on maturity and extraction, aromatic intensity and consistency, nevertheless ÅVL[ I []KKM[[N]T IXXZWIKP \W Q\[ MV\Za level labels, joining the house style to drinkability and ease. PAIRING: A wine that goes well with a traditional dish like squab breast with rosemary.

Todi Grechetto Sup. Colle Nobile ’13, TUDERNUM

LOC. PIAN DI PORTO, 146 | TODI (PG) | TEL. 075/8989403 | WWW.TUDERNUM.IT | PRICE 8.70 EUROS

Tudernum, a respected KWWXMZI\Q^M _Q\P I ÅVM array of vineyard parcels, both in the zone of Todi and that of Montefalco, produces two versions of Grechetto that vie against each other every year. This year, Colle Nobile ’13 stood out. Aged for a few months in barZQY]M[ Q\ LQ[XTIa[ I KTMIV IVL _MTT LMÅVML IZWUI\QK XZWÅTM 1V \PM UW]\P Q\ Q[ XTMI[IV\ TQOP\Ta [XQKa J]\ NZM[P IVL ^MZa TWVO WV \PM ÅVQ[P 49 APRIL 2015

OLI RECIPES D’ITALIA FROM 2015 TOP CHEFS

by Clara Barra

Costardi Brothers

The realm of rice 50 APRIL 2015

CUCINA FROM THE GROUND UP

CHRISTIAN AND MANUEL COSTARDI

Christian and Manuel Costardi have made this northern Piedmont town a food lover’s destination, spotlighting the simplicity of the area’s ingredients, starting with rice, a monument to the excellence of the Vercellese variety. 51 APRIL 2015

The Costardi brothers’ restaurant (known to its fans as Costardi Bros.) is ten years old. They deserve applause for having turned a traditional, staid town like Vercelli into a stop on food-lovers’ itineraries. They managed because they loved a challenge and always believed that sooner or later, they would be recognized. They never gave up. Theirs is an innovative cuisine of contrasts, modern and technological, but I\ \PM [IUM \QUM ÅZUTa ZWW\ML QV Q\[ zone. The principal ingredient is rice, the major agricultural product of the territory. Christian, the most outgoing of the two, has an exuberant, enthusiastic personality, brimming over with ideas. But he never forgets his origins, \PM ÆI^WZ[ WN \PM XI[\ \PM UMUWZQM[ WN family tradition. Manuel, younger but also more reserved and shy, prefers to let his creations speak for him, above all his desserts, miniature masterworks for the table. The two form a team in the family hotel named for their mother, Cinzia. She is their biggest fan and supporter, both in and out of the kitchen. +PZQ[\QIV [IQL ¹.WZ ][ \PM _QVM KMTTIZ is fundamental. We dedicate a great deal of space to Piedmont, in terms of both labels and vintage years. But we also have a wide selection of Champagne and sparkling wines, which we adore. And we have some key French bottles, too.” Their selections are made by Christian, Manuel and the talented Elisa Bellavia, maitre d’ and sommelier, who guides clients in their choice of the right bottle. Wines by the glass are important as well.

CHRISTIAN E MANUEL DELL’HOTEL CINZIA | VERCELLI WWW.HOTEL-CINZIA.COM

OLI RECIPES D’ITALIA FROM 2015 TOP CHEFS

ORTO 2015

FOR THE CHLOROPHYL:

SERVES 4*

PARSLEY

FOR THE BREAD ‘DIRT’:

COLD WATER

BREAD CRUMBS

ICE

ROSEMARY THYME

VEGETABLES:

EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

CARROTS, CELERY, BROCCOLI,

CARBON OF TAGGIASCHE OLIVES** PORCINI MUSHROOM POWDER TOASTED PINE NUTS FROM

PISA

FOR THE RED ONION PURÉE: RED ONIONS UNREFINED BROWN SUGAR

TIMORASSO WINE VINEGAR FOR THE RED ONION JAM: RED ONIONS WATER

TIMORASSO WINE VINEGAR UNREFINED BROWN SUGAR

ASPARAGUS, CAULIFLOWER, ZUCCHINI, RED ONIONS, SPRING ONIONS, DAIKON (WHITE RADISH) CAVIAR TUNA BOTTARGA EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

TIMORASSO WINE VINEGAR * Quantities are not important. They depend on individual tastes. First, clean and wash all the vegetables, Cut into pieces and cook each vegetable separately in boiling water, then cool in ice water. For the red onion purée, peel the onion, cut into chunks, and braise slowly, adding sugar, vinegar, and water if necessary.

For the red onion jam, cut into thin strips and cook with the other two ingredients and water until thick and jammy. For the parsley chlorophyll, remove leaves from stems, wash, dry well and place in a blender with ice and a little water. Filter and put aside. For the bread ‘dirt’: heat a non-stick pan with a little olive oil, add bread crumbs, chopped thyme and rosemary. Brown lightly. Spread the bread crumbs on a large plate, add the taggiasche olives carbon (**black olives, dried slowly, pitted and pulverized), toasted Pisa pine nuts, powder of dried porcini mushrooms, a drizzle of olive oil. Then blend with the red onion purée, red onion jam, grated bottarga and parsley chlorophyll. Warm the vegetables with a little vegetable broth, spread them on the bread dirt to suggest the idea of a vegetable garden (orto), add the freshly cut daikon, a few drops of Timorasso vinegar and the ex\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT ¹?M TQSM \W [Ia aW] don’t fool with vegetables,” comments +PZQ[\QIV ¹;W IZWUI[ U][\ JM KZQ[X ) note of acidity comes from the Timorasso vinegar.”

CHLOROPHYLL SERVES 4* 320 G CARNAROLI RICE ½ LITER VEGETABLE BROTH EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AROMATIC

SARAWAK PEPPER

BUTTER

GRANA PADANO CHEESE, GRATED 8 SHRIMP 2 LIMES BLACK CUTTLEFISH INK

FOR THE CHLOROPHYLL: PARSLEY COLD WATER ICE

For the parsley chlorophyll, remove leaves from stems, wash, dry well and place in a blender with ice and a little water. Filter and put aside. Shell the shrimp and chop coarsely. Peel the lime, removing only the green peel. Mince and put aside. Cut lime in half and squeeze for juice. Place a pot for risotto on the stove, add a little oil and heat, pour in rice and toast until it ‘sings’. Continue cooking, adding hot vegetable broth as it reduces. When rice is about ¾ done, add some chlophyll. When the rice is cooked, remove from heat, add butter, grated cheese, a drizzle of oil and some ground pepper. If necessary, add more chlorophyll to obtain the desired color. Dress the shrimps with the chopped lime zest, pepper, and olive oil. Drizzle the [MZ^QVO LQ[P _Q\P K]\\TMÅ[P QVS Arrange the rice in the dish, add some TQUM bM[\ \PM [PZQUX IVL ÅVQ[P _Q\P TQUM juice around the rice.

¹<PM OZMMV Q[ \PM KWTWZ of spring, of the meadows fragrant with cut grass,” Christian Costardi explains. ¹<PM IKQLQ\a WN \PM TQUM JITIVKM[ \PM [I^WZa ÆI^WZ WN \PM [PZQUX º

53 APRIL 2015

RECIPES FROM TOP CHEFS

54 APRIL 2015

MERINGATA 2.0 SERVES 8 750 G FRESH CREAM 180 G SUGAR WHIPPED CREAM

FOR THE MERINGUE:

400 G SUGAR 200 G EGG WHITE MALDON SALT LEMON ZEST

FOR THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE:

100 G BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE 72% 30 G BUTTER Heat cream and sugar together and reduce. Then prepare instant gelato with liquid nitrogen (or – at home – use an ice cream maker). Keep the ice cream in the freezer. (Or use a good commerKQIT ^IVQTTI WZ ÅWZLQTI\\M QKM KZMIU Prepare the meringue by beating together all the ingredients. When whites NWZU ÅZU XMIS[ XTIKM UMZQVO]M[ WV a baking sheet and bake at 85°C for about 3 hours. Remove from oven and let cool. For the chocolate sauce, melt the chocolate and then add butter. Stain the plate with the chocolate sauce, place a slightly broken meringue on top, add whipped cream and ice cream. ComXTM\M _Q\P IVW\PMZ ÆI\\MVML meringue disk and a few crystals of Maldon salt. ¹<PQ[ LQ[P º 5IV]MT +W[\IZLQ \MTT[ ][ ¹KWUM[ NZWU W]Z _IV\QVO \W ZMKZMI\M a dessert we loved when we were children, but making it a delicious dish for grown-ups.”

55 APRIL 2015

RECIPES FROM TOP CHEFS

COSTARDI’S TOMATO RICE SERVES 4 320 G CARNAROLI RICE 300 G TOMATO PASSATA 1 STALK CELERY 1 CARROT 1 RED ONION 1 CHOPPED ONION BUTTER

GRANA PADANO CHEESE, GRATED EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

MALDON SALT BLACK

SARAWAK PEPPER

CHOPPED LEMON ZEST FOR THE PESTO:

1 BUNCH FRESH BASIL GARLIC PINE NUTS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

For the pesto, remove basil leaves from stems, wash and dry well. In the container of an immersion blender place garlic, pine nuts, 1 or 2 ice cubes to prevent the heat of the blender from darkening the basil, and extra-virgin olive oil. Blend until puréed. Place the tomato passata (uncooked purée) in a pot. Add peeled, sliced carrot, chopped celery stalk, peeled onion in chunks, olive oil. Cook slowly over low heat for about 4 hours, then blend until smooth and homogeneous. Sauté the chopped onion in extra-virgin olive oil. When browned, add rice and toast it, stirring. Add boiling

56 APRIL 2015

vegetable broth and continue cooking until rice is half done. Add the tomato XI[[I\I IVL ÅVQ[P KWWSQVO ZQKM :Mmove from heat, stir in butter and grated Grana Padano, ÅVQ[PQVO _Q\P I LZQbbTM WN extra-virgin olive oil. Spread a little pesto and grated lemon zest on the JW\\WU WN MIKP XTI\M ÅTT with risotto, then top with pesto, lemon zest and a few Maldon salt crystals. ¹<PQ[ ZMKQXM XZWJIJTa JM[\ represents our style of cuisine,” Manuel and Christian +W[\IZLQ IOZMM ¹;QUXTQKQ\a WN QVOZMLQMV\[ IVL IJW^M ITT ÆI^WZ[ \PI\ remind us of the past but at the same time, don’t resemble the tomato rice they served us in kindergarten.”

ORTO 2015

CHLOROPHYLL

ESSENCE SATÉN 2010 | ANTICA FRATTA | MONTICELLI BRUSATI (BS) | WWW.ANTICAFRATTA.COM

GAJA & REY 2008 |GAJA | BARBARESCO (CN) | WWW.GAJA.COM

¹.WZ I LQ[P \PI\ Q[ ^MZa KWUXTM` QV Q\[ [QUXTQKQ\a · UW[\Ta vegetables – we chose the most emblematic Franciacorta WN \PM .ZIVKQIKWZ\I _QVM[ º +PZQ[\QIV M`XTIQV[ ¹-TMOIV\ and seductive, with citrus notes and hints of exotic fruit, UILM NZWU KPIZLWVVIa OZIXM[ Q\[ ÅVM J]JJTM[ OW _MTT _Q\P a purely vegetable dish.”

¹<PQ[ LQ[P Q[ KWUXTM` IVL ZQKP QV KWV\ZI[\[ IVL I[[WVIVKM We chose a great Piedmontese white wine,” the chef says, ¹\PI\ XIQZ[ _MTT _Q\P \PM VW\M[ WN \PM ZQ[W ITTI KTWZWÅTTI UI\KPQVO ITT \PM ÆI^WZ[ \PM [_MM\VM[[ IVL \PM IKQLQ\a º

MERINGATA 2.0

COSTARDI’S TOMATO RICE

BRACHETTO PASSITO PIAN DEI SOGNI 2007 | FORTETO DELLA LUJA | LOAZZOLO (AT) | WWW.FORTETODELLALUJA.IT

PITASSO 2011 | CLAUDIO MARIOTTO | TORTONA (AL) | WWW.CLAUDIOMARIOTTO.IT

¹<PQ[ Q[ IV W]\ WN \PM WZLQVIZa *ZIKPM\\W XI[[Q\W I LZQML grape wine, and it goes well with the sugary part of the dessert as well as with the chocolate,” comments pastry chef 5IV]MT +W[\IZLQ ¹<PQ[ _Ia _M \I[\M \PQ[ KTI[[QK WN 1\ITQIV pastry-making at its best.”

¹5IZQW\\W¼[ <QUWZI[[W Q[ \PM XMZNMK\ XIQZQVO NWZ \PQ[ LQ[P 1\ is in harmony with the rice and tomato right from the start, as if the dish were designed to go well with the wine. In other words, an ideal matrimony,” says sommelier Elisa Bellavia.

57 APRIL 2015

OLI Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ITALIA 2015

by Stefano Polacchi

Special awards 58 APRIL 2015

This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prize winners in our guide to extravirgin Italian oils, Oli dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Italia, show us what high quality can mean. A dramatically difficult year for olive growers did not stop these producers from completing their missions successfully. Here are the 11 champions chosen by our book, now available in bookstores.

olive oil

With contributions from Giuseppe Carrus, Indra Galbo, Elisabetta De Blasi, Massimiliano Rella, Leonardo Romanelli, Nino Aiello, Fabrizio Trezzi, Giulio Scatolini, Matteo Savignano

59 APRIL 2015

OLI D’ITALIA 2015

BEST MEDIUM-FRUITY Mosto d’Oliva Giulio Mannelli

loc. Montebalacca Bettona (PG) tel. 075 9869023 www.agrariamannelli.it OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 3

LEGEND GOOD

PROPERTY. A young but already successful ÅZU \PQ[ =UJZQIV M[\I\M OZW_[ WTQ^M \ZMM[ on about 15 hectares. Owner Giulio Mannelli took an avant-garde approach to production, especially in his olive mill. Success in a year like this one shows that nothing was left to chance and that choices made in his groves were important as well. OIL. A ÅVM XMZNWZUIVKM NWZ 5W[\W L¼7TQ^I \PQ[ year at the top of regional production. A blend of moraiolo, frantoio and leccino olives opens on the nose with balsamic aromas of conifer trees and nettles, vegetal notes of cardoon and then, a green IXXTM ÅVQ[P 8W_MZN]T IVL KWPMZMV\ XITI\M _Q\P sensations that re-echo its balsamic character and its peppery, bitter notes. PAIRINGS. Steak, rare.

VERY GOOD

EXCELLENT

PRICE RANGE OLI D’ITALIA 2015| 360 PAGES |PRICE 13.90 EUROS |ON SALE IN BOOKSTORE, ON NEWSSTANDS, AND AT GAMBEROROSSO.IT

1 • UNDER 10 EUROS 2 • 11-20 EUROS 3 • 21-25 EUROS 4 • 26-30 EUROS 5 • OVER 30 EUROS

BEST INTENSELY-FRUITY Tenuta Torre di Mossa Dop Terra di Bari - Monocultivar Coratina Frantoio De Carlo

BEST LIGHT-FRUITY Trefort Ca’ Rainene – Bonomelli

via per Albisano, 95 Torri del Benaco (VR) tel. 045 6296711 www.paolobonomelli.com OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 5

via XXIV Maggio, 54b Bitritto (BA) - tel. 080 630767 www.oliodecarlo.com OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 5

PROPERTY. Ca’ Rainene is one of the most interesting and innovative estates in the whole northeastern lake zone of Garda in the Veneto. The olive groves along the hills of Torri del Benaco are also a sort of open-air work of art that enriches the spectacular hills. The estate grows 3,000 trees, which produce four types of oil. Its self-contained production chain means that each phase of the work Q[ \ZIKMIJTM IVL KMZ\QÅML OIL. Trefort, a lightly fruity oil, opens smoothly on the nose with its particular scents of aromatic herbs, green tomato and almond. It conÅZU[ Q\[ QVLQ^QL]ITQ\a WV \PM XITI\M _Q\P VW\M[ of chamomile, almond, celery and radishes. Clean bitter and peppery notes on the close. PAIRINGS. Red meat carpaccio.

PROPERTY. The De Carlo family is a wellknown, historical name in Puglia’s olive-growing history. Written records show that the family was already dedicated to olive production at the end of the 18th century and all during the 19th. 1V \PM ÅZ[\ LMKILM[ WN \PM [ \PMa WJ\IQVML the necessary permission to sell their oil both retail and wholesale. OIL. <PQ[ M`\ZI ^QZOQV Q[ I ÅVM M`XZM[[QWV WN XW_er and elegance. The nose is generous and complex, with notes of aromatic Mediterranean herbs, green vegetal tones and markedly bitter ones that resemble cardoon, artichoke and arugula. On a XMZNMK\Ta KWPMZMV\ XITI\M MTMOIV\ IVL ZW]VL ÆI^WZ[ call up balsamic notes, soothing vegetable- garden tones of nettles and a hint of fresh mint. PAIRINGS. Pasta and chickpea soup. 60

APRIL 2015

BEST ORGANIC Monocultivar Nocellara del Belice Bio Pasquale Librandi

BEST BUY Crudo Monocultivar Ogliarola Schiralli

via Marina, 23

SP Bitetto-Binetto

Vaccarizzo Albanese (CS) tel. 0983 84068 www.oliolibrandi.it OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 4

Binetto (BA) tel. 080 7831755 www.crudo.it OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 2

PROPERTY. The olive oil production on this Calabrian estate founded by Pasquale Librandi in 1967 is now managed by his four children. It is important in terms of both quality and quantity. Organic cultivation of 30,000 olive trees planted on about 153 hectares of land produces fruit which is then processed in an avant-garde mill on the property. The result is excellent oil. This is the northern slope of the Sila Greca foothills, just outside the ancient village with its Greek-Albanian traditions. OIL. An extra-virgin with intensely fruity personality. Complex nose of tomatoes, basil and marjoram. On the palate, long-lasting notes of chili peppers and tomato prevail over all other sensations. PAIRINGS. Soups and bean soups.

PROPERTY. The Schiralli family’s olives grow on 20 hectares of land in the countryside of Bitetto, province of Bari, in Puglia. OIL. Crudo is an exceptional extra-virgin from Ogliarola barese olives, intensely fruity on the VW[M 1\[ OMVMZW][ IVL ZW]VL WTNIK\WZa XZWÅTM shows off its youth, and is all played on bitter \WVM[ WN _QTL OZMMV[ IVL ITUWVL[ IUXTQÅML and complicated by sensations of green peppercorns and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, notes of almond, arugula, nettles, radicchio and artichoke, but also fresh sensations of green apple. Fine balance between bitter and peppery tones. PAIRINGS. Fava bean purée with wild chicory greens.

BEST DOP Primo Dop Monti Iblei Monocultivar Tonda Iblea Frantoi Cutrera

BEST MONOCULTIVAR L’Ottobratico Monocultivar Ottobratica Olearia San Giorgio

c.da Piano dell’Acqua, 71 +PQIZIUWV\M /]TÅ :/ tel. 0932 926187 www.frantoicutrera.it OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 3

via Ricevuto, 18

PROPERTY. This estate of 50 hectares and over 10,000 trees, many over a century old, is a benchmark in terms of quality for Sicilian olive-growing. It has been owned by the Cutrera family for generations. Giovanni and Maria built a modern mill in 1979. In 2000, their children, Giuseppina, Maria and Salvatore, along with their spouses, took over, bringing new enthusiasm and up-to-date skills. OIL. Primo KWVÅZU[ ITT Q\[ M`\ZIWZLQVIZa KPIZacter. A medium-intense fruity oil, on the nose it has elegant notes of bitter almonds, mint, nettles IVL _ITV]\ P]TT[ :MÅVML IVL MVMZOM\QK Q\ [ML]KM[ \PM XITI\M _Q\P Q\[ [WN\VM[[ IVL I ÅVQ[P QV which bitter and peppery notes are balanced in amazing equilibrium. PAIRINGS. Tuna and herb carpaccio.

PROPERTY. Created over 70 years ago by Domenico Fazari, and run today by his children and grandchildren, the estate grows about 25,000 trees on more than 140 hectares in the zone near San Giorgio Morgeto and Cittanova, inside the Parco Nazionale dell’Aspromonte in Calabria. -TM^MV PMK\IZM[ IZM LMLQKI\ML \W KMZ\QÅML WZOIVQK production, and the estate also applies a system that assures traceability for each lot. OIL. This exciting Ottobratico monocultivar is a medium fruity oil with an elegant nose of intense tomato notes and more delicate chamomile tones. Slightly more tenuous and feminine on the palate, it has a light but persistent peppery note. PAIRINGS. Salad with tomatoes from Belmonte Calabro and sweet Tropea onion.

San Giorgio Morgeto (RC) tel. 0966 935321 www.olearia.it OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 2

61 APRIL 2015

OLI Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ITALIA 2015

BEST ESTATE Dop Colline Teatine Bio Trappeto di Caprafico

BEST OLIVE MILL Villa Magra Grand Cru Frantoio Franci

c.da +IXZIĂ&#x2026;KW Casoli (CH) tel. 0871 897457 ___ \ZIXXM\WLQKIXZIĂ&#x2026;KW KWU OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 5

via A. Grandi, 5

PROPERTY. Tommaso Masciantonioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s estate Q[ WVM WN \PM TWVOM[\ M[\IJTQ[PML IVL UW[\ XZWĂ&#x2026;\able in Abruzzo. On the green hills of the provQVKM WN +PQM\Q JM\_MMV +I[WTQ IVL +IXZIĂ&#x2026;KW Tommaso takes personal care of his 4,000 trees (16 hectares of olive groves), limiting his interventions to organic treatments, when necessary. OIL. DOP Colline Teatine (from Gentile di Chieti and Intosso olives) is a example of elMOIVKM IVL [\aTQ[\QK X]ZQ\a 7V \PM VW[M Ă&#x2026;VM IVL ^IZQML VW\M[ WN _QTL Ă&#x2020;W_MZ[ KPIUWUQTM NZM[P tomatoes and just-picked artichokes. On the palate, noteworthy harmony on tones of celery and sweet almond. Peppery and bitter sensations in perfect harmony. PAIRINGS. Raw Ă&#x2026;[P \IZ\IZM WZ KIZXIKKQW.

PROPERTY. This estate has been producing high quality olive oil for more than 60 years, since Franco and Fernando Franci converted a barn into an olive mill and dedicate themselves to production. A real change came in 1995, after 50 years of activity, when Fernandoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son Giorgio came into the business. He reorganized and enlarged the area of their sales, establishing a brandname and image that had been known until then only to the population of the immediate area. OIL. Villa Magra Grand Cru displays sensations of Mediterranean brush with scents such as bay leaf, then green peppercorns, and a delicate fruitiness. On the palate it is generous IVL Ă&#x2020;I^WZN]T with a pleasing return of herbs and pepper. PAIRINGS. Roasted light meats, such as veal.

CHEFSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; OILS Delicato Monocultivar Itrana Alfredo Cetrone

BEST TERRITORIAL PERFORMANCE Riserva del Produttore Dop Sardegna Accademia Olearia

Castel del Piano (GR) tel. 0564 954000 www.frantoiofranci.it OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 5

via Consolare Frasso, 5800 Sonnino (LT) tel. 0773 949008 www.cetrone.it OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 5

loc. Ungias GalantĂ¨ Lotto E1 Alghero (SS) tel. 079 980394 www.accademiaolearia.com OWN OLIVE GROVE: YES OWN OLIVE MILL: YES PRICE RANGE: 2

PROPERTY. Founded in 1860 by an ancestor with the same name as present owner Alfredo Cetrone, the estate is located on the slopes of the Ausoni mountains in Lazio on rocky soil at 500 meters above sea level. The estate is a reference point for the entire zone and extends for 100 hectares, with 20,000 itrana cultivar trees exposed to the JMVMĂ&#x2026;KMV\ 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV JZMMbM 8ZWL]K\QWV Q[ differentiated according to the period in which the olives are harvested. OIL. Delicato is a medium-fruity oil that displays NZM[P Ă&#x2020;WZIT VW\M[ IVL PQV\[ WN JI[QT IVL \WUI\W leaf. Green tomato tones return on the palate, along with marked balsamic notes that end in a [XQKa IZWUI\QK ]V][]IT Ă&#x2026;VQ[P PAIRINGS. Buffalo UWbbIZMTTI NZM[P WQTa Ă&#x2026;[P such as anchovies.

PROPERTY. Accademia 7TMIZQI Q[ I Ă&#x2026;ZU QV the Sardinian province of Alghero headed by Giuseppe Fois. He and four generations of his family have been working in olive production, showing passion and professionalism that translate into quality and products faithful to their provenance. The estate owns 200 hectares that turn out over 1,000 quintals (one quintal = 100 kilos) of oil. OIL. One of the best oils from Sardinia this aMIZ ) NI[KQVI\QVO M`\ZI ^QZOQV _Q\P ZMĂ&#x2026;VML aromas of cardoon, radish, aromatic herbs and spices. In the mouth it is fresh, elegant, deep and full of character. PAIRINGS. White UMI\[ NI\\a Ă&#x2026;[P.

62 APRIL 2015

LETTER FROM PARIS

SWEET, NATURAL AND LIVELY We went back to Rivesaltes, to André and Bernard Cazes. Age has left their passion and enthusiasm intact. We wanted to see them again amid their _QVM[ _PQKP *MZVIZL KITT[ ¹_QVM[ _Q\P VI\]ZIT sweetness”. These are the Rivesaltes and Moscati that their father Aimé began producing before the war, wines that André, with his rugby physique and seductive smile, bottled with the family name in the 1950s, and that Bernard perfected, starting in the 1970s. Tasting some 45-year-old marvels with them, I understood that these wines are made for eternity. A Rivesaltes 1973 glows with a \PW][IVL ÅZM[ JMNWZM L]ZQVO IVL NWZ I TWVO \QUM IN\MZ _M PI^M M`XMZQMVKML Q\[ ÅVM IZWUI WN ZIVKQW tasted its voluptuous body and forgotten to spit out a last sip of its interminable aromatic persistence. This miracle of eternal maturity occurs in wines that are truly not expensive, such as Rivesaltes, Ambré and Tuilé, aged for 12 to 15 years in barrels, Grenat, immediately bottled without oxidation processes and Moscati, which, with aging, acquires a rich aromatic range. Few wines, in France or in the rest of the world, are able to age so long and with such harmony. So we have to ask ourselves: why is it that these amazing wines are no longer recognized for their

\Z]M ^IT]M' ?Pa KIV¼\ \PMa ÅVL IV IXXZMKQI\Q^M I]LQMVKM' 1[ Q\ \PM []OIZ' <PMQZ JIKSJWVM IVL MVergy should encourage chefs to create a dish to pair _Q\P MIKP WVM 1[ Q\ \PMQZ ITKWPWT' <PMa PI^M U]KP less than an ordinary whisky and little more than a good number of red wines from the south. None of these classic explanations convinces me. Perhaps there’s another, less common, but more pertinent reason. Unlike the producers of Port, the makers of natural sweet wines have X]\ \PMQZ ¹\I_Vaº ^MZsions in the foreground, those that are oxidized, rather than showing off their vintage bottles, viVQÅML QV ZML]K\QWV IVL soon bottled. Cazes’ Grenat cuvée, which belongs in this second category, was designed to seduce with fruity notes and soft tannins. It’s a shame, because only vintage Port has been able to be recognized in the world as an international star and heat up auction sales. Some grand producer of Rivesaltes, Maury or Banyuls wanted to produce great vintage-style wines, but these have been isolated cases. Today, the Cazes family have entered an ambitious group, Advini, and it’s the best thing that could happen – recreate in RoussilTWV [\ZWVO MV\MZXZQ[QVO ÅZU[ IUJQ\QW][ \W ZM[\WZM Rivesaltes labels to their rightful place in the winery, and in the glasses of wine fans. Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve

64 APRIL 2015

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CONTRIBUTORS Michel Bettane, Thierry Desseauve, Andrea Gabbrielli, William Pregentelli, Clara Barra, Marco Sabellico, Stefano 8WTIKKPQ /Q][MXXM +IZZ][ 1VLZI /ITJW -TQ[IJM\\I ,M *TI[Q 5I[[QUQTQIVW :MTTI 4MWVIZLW :WUIVMTTQ 6QVW )QMTTW .IJZQbQW <ZMbbQ /Q]TQW ;KI\WTQVQ 5I\\MW ;I^QOVIVW

COVER PHOTO Original book source: Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm ThomĂŠ .TWZI ^WV ,M]\[KPTIVL l[\MZZMQKP ]VL LMZ ;KP_MQb 1885, Gera, Germany. Permission granted to use ]VLMZ /.,4 Ja 3]Z\ ;\]MJMZ P\\X" ___ JQWTQJ LM PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Chiara Buosi, Francesco Vignali, Cecilia Gloria

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65 APRIL 2015