Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food - December 2015

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YEAR 21 N. 91 - DECEMBER 2015

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD 速

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COVER STORY 37 | Terra Moretti 2.0 Francesca Moretti looks to the future of a great winery. After growing up in the vineyards and wine cellars of her father’s Bellavista, she brings a new vision of wine and the world to an iconic Franciacorta estate and to Petra, in Tuscany.

WINE 26 | The Rating Game: Different strokes for different folks We look at how American magazines judge Italian wines. Did we ever agree on what’s great? Well, yes and no. 43 | Italy’s Emerging Sparkling Wines Bubblies that mean business. Three great areas for metodo classico, Oltrepò Pavese, Franciacorta and Trento, don’t tell the whole story. We look at Italy’s bubblies all along the boot.

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On sober reflection, you can drink wine for five reasons: first to celebrate, then to quench thirst, then to avoid having thirst afterwards, then, to honor good wine and, finally, for every reason. 32

Friedrich Rückert (1788 - 1866)

NEWS & MORE

62 | Bere Bene: Best Buys Wines of Umbria New attention to traditional varieties, to territories and subzones, to the type of agriculture and techniques of ^QVQÅKI\QWV -^MZaLIa _QVM[ [PQVM _Q\P VM_ JZQTTQIVKM

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4 | Editorial 6 | News 10 | Events Moscow, Zurich and Warsaw 16 | Wine of the month Uccelliera – Brunello di Montalcino ’10 18 | Twitter dixit 20 | Food & Design Cavò 22 | Pairing Lab Umbria 24 | Foodies Mantua

TRAVEL 51 | Special Umbria Woods and panoramic nature from Assisi to Norcia. Medieval villages, monasteries and convents along Saint Francis’ path. But also passionate food artisans, a young chef and affordable quality wine.

FOOD 75 | Farm Cooking with a Twist: Emanuele Mazzella In his restaurant in Norcia, a talented young chef brings together his home territory, Ischia, and his adopted home, Umbria, in dishes that play with [_MM\VM[[ IVL IKQLQ\a [I^WZa IVL JQ\\MZ ÆI^W]Z[ contrasting textures.

3 DECEMBER 2015

EDITORIAL

Dear Santa, 2015 was a marvelous year for Italian wine! We broke export records, our wines are getting better all the time, wineries are selling out their cellars. Everyone is happy. But I do have a little list:

! Prevent any corked wine, at least for Christmas dinner ! Establish limits to prosecco production before we find it planted even on our apartment balconies

! How about a miracle? transform all our 2003 bottles into 2010s ! Let me go back in time to stock up on Etna Rosso and Barbaresco 2008. Brunello 1983, Chianti Classico 1988, Verdicchio 2006, and various Fiano d’Avellino 2010 labels. ! Eliminate, just with the power of your mind, restaurants that offer an all-you-can-eat option ! Tie our salary increases to the average price of Masseto ! Stop our American friends from speculating on Pergole Torte. It was once so affordable! ! Settle for once and for all on the number of indigenous Italian varieties. At least give us a range. Sometimes they say 150, other times 5,000. That creates confusion ! Cut out having Gambero Rosso send me invitations to events on the other side of the world. Oops. Sorry. I send those. Next point ! Protect me from any premox syndrome in the bottles I have so devotedly stored in my cellar ! Make sure there’s not another vintage year like 2014. We don’t tolerate water posing as wine on the table ! Give me strength and patience when, on Christmas Eve, I uncork a Monfortino 1999 and my uncle, without even tasting it, says, “That’s an overrated wine, the kind the wine guides like.” That’s it. Have a good holiday, drink well, and remember me to your family. All the best, Lorenzo Ruggeri 4 NOVEMBER 2015

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NEWS

Food trends 2016. WHAT’S COMING TO OUR TABLES FROM AMERICA It’s almost the end of 2015, and as the solar year comes to a close, the culinary future seems clear. Perhaps it’s already here. As it does every year, the New York based Baum+Whiteman food and restaurant planning agency has outlined the trends that _QTT QVÆ]MVKM \PM _WZTL WN food-focused professionals in 2016. In its home country, the agency’s prophecies carry great weight, founded as they are on statistics, research and deep knowledge of the ÅMTL <PMQZ ZMTMI[M PI[ JMcome an essential date on the calendar of trade operators and specialized press, many of whom rely on Baum+Whiteman for clues to the next big ideas. Europeans have learned to pay careN]T I\\MV\QWV \W \PM[M TQ[\[ <PMa IVnounce American trends that often cross the ocean, sooner or later: gastronomy has gone so global. For example, the boom of broth-to-go in a cup: after its wild success in New York a year ago, its popularity has exploded around European capitals. 1. The new frontier is food delivery. Food delivery is assuming greater importance and becoming more structured. Businesses such as Uber, Amazon, Yelp and even Google are heavily involved, their trusted positions as mediators between services and consumers allowing them to move into personalizing home delivery while setting new high standards NWZ Y]ITQ\a <PM _I\KP_WZL[ IZM MNÅKQMVKa IVL [XMML NZM[PVM[[ IVL healthy offerings. Amazon, for ex-

ample, now can deliver food directly from farmer’s markets to homes and WNÅKM[ 2 and 3. Vegetarian diets and emphasis on health. Two trends in one.

<_W NI[PQWV[ PIZLTa XI[[QVO WVM[ _QTT OI\PMZ [\ZMVO\P <PM aMIZ will see a growing obsession for what’s called a ‘clean menu’, one _Q\P KMZ\QÅML QVOZMLQMV\[ IVL VW ILLQ\Q^M[ WZ XZM[MZ^QVO IOMV\[ <PM trend will even affect the big chains famously associated with junk food. At the same time, specialization in high quality vegetarian cooking is growing, and seeking to bring in more and more omnivores. Many names in the United States have set the pace, such as Amanda Cohen’s Dirty Candy in Manhattan, Semilla in Brooklyn, Al’s Place in San Francisco and the fast-virtuous Sweetgreen. 4. The fried chicken boom. How can we explain the fried chicken boom? It’s almost laughable that a cozy, beloved tradition like fried KPQKSMV ÅVL[ Q\[MTN WV I TQ[\ WN PW\ trends. Yet it is undoubtedly in a new and upward phase. Shake Shack, a chain famed for its hamburgers, has

6 DECEMBER 2015

introduced a fried chicken sandwich NWZ \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM ,I^QL +PIVO¼[ new Fuku in New York specializes in spicy fried chicken, and variations on the theme are gaining traction all over the United States. Fried chicken Q[ ÅZ[\ [UWSML WZ [MZ^ML _Q\P M`W\QK dressings, or topped with breathtakingly peppery sauces, or even tucked into macaroni and cheese, with the whole concoction then served on I [WN\ ZWTT <PM [\WZQM[ LW VW\ MVL there. Fried chicken is on a roll in more ways than one.

5. Poke? What’s that? Poke (pronounced in two syllables – po-kay) resembles what Europeans SVW_ I[ KM^QKPM <PM WZQOQVIT 0Iwaiian recipe calls for small cubes of fresh, raw tuna marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, macadamia nuts, green onions, seaweed, sesame oil, ginger and chili peppers, then served with avocado, mango and rice. Californians line up for variations of all kinds, with salmon, octopus, and shrimp often taking the place of tuna. How long will it be before the trend comes to Europe?

6. What’s ahead for pasta? Pasta risks losing its appeal in the contest for consumer palates. It is already facing competition with alternative cereals such as quinoa, orzo, farro, and is struggling with being demonized by proponents of lowcarb diets. Consumption is down 6% in the United States, and much more in Europe and Italy itself. Vegetables sliced into spaghetti strands – zucchini and sweet potatoes, for example – are appearing instead, while pureed spinach and other greens are often blended into the pasta dough. 7 and 8. Acai fruit to go and New Jewish Cuisine. We close with two trending customs. Acai to go – coming from Brazil – is the newest street-wise breakfast or Y]QKSQM T]VKP <PM NZ]Q\ ][]ITTa I NZWzen puree, is blended into a smoothie with soy milk and banana, then topped with nuts, seeds and cocoaV]\ ÆISM[ NWZ I KWUXIK\ IVL [I\Q[Naing ten-dollar meal. Jewish cooking, long an integral part of American food culture, is undergoing a modern UISMW^MZ .W]Z\P IVL ÅN\P OMVMZI\QWV chefs are reinterpreting old favorites. Michael Solomonov, after his success in Philadelphia with Zahav, opened Abe Fisher’s. Zak the Baker in Miami is featuring open-faced sandwiches he calls kosher toast. Shaya, in New Orleans, describes itself as modern 1[ZIMTQ IVL JZQVO[ \W Q\[ UMV] ÆI^WZ[ NZWU -I[\MZV -]ZWXM <]ZSMa /ZMMKM North Africa and the Middle East.

The changing American wine market: enter next-gen

<PM =VQ\ML ;\I\M[ _QTT JM \PM _QVM UIZSM\ WN \PM N]\]ZM 0IJQ\]IT KWVsumers of wine will grow from the present day 93 million, about 40% of the adult population, to 109 million by 2025, or 44% of adults. In other words, the prediction is for an increase of 16 million wine drinkers over \MV aMIZ[ <PM UW[\ ZMKMV\ [\]La Ja ?QVM 1V\MTTQOMVKM I *ZQ\Q[P KWUXIVa specialized in market research, tells of an American consolidation of its \WX XW[Q\QWV I[ _QVM KWV[]UMZ <PM ZMI[WV[ NWZ \PQ[ XW[Q\Q^M \ZMVL IZM I generation changeover, a growth in population and other cultural factors. <PM [W KITTML »VM`\ OMVMZI\QWV¼ \PW[M JWZV QV !! IVL TI\MZ _QTT PI^M a decisive role in the increase in consumption over the next ten years. About 22.7 million people belonging to this category will become regular wine drinkers, making up 21% of the country’s drinkers. Compared to the older millennials, the next-gen is immersed in the technological world but is more careful about spending, less inclined to risk, and pays more attention to the product bought. Fifty-seven percent of these young people, according to the report, say they want to learn more about the world of _QVM <PM IVITa[\[ WN ?QVM 1V\MTTQOMVKM _PW QV\MZ^QM_ML W^MZ [Q` \PW]sand consumers between March and October, see the next-gen as a group WN KWV[]UMZ[ \W _QV W^MZ ¹<PQ[ UIZSM\ VMML[ KIZMN]T [\]La º [Ia[ +-7 Richard Halstead. “Like it or not, the destiny and fortunes of the world’s wine industry over the next ten years will be decided by the attitudes of \PM[M aW]VO )UMZQKIV KWV[]UMZ[ º .WZ 1\ITa \PM V]UJMZ WVM []XXTQMZ WN wine to the United States, the path seems clear. 7 DECEMBER 2015

NEWS

ITALIAN SOUNDING. Hearst and Food Network come to Italy’s aid <PM TI\M[\ J]TTM\QV ZMTMI[ML Ja \PM Italian farmers’ association, Coldiretti, is disheartening. In the United States, 99% of cheese products [WTL I[ ¹1\ITQIVº IZM IK\]ITTa KW]Vterfeits made in the USA. In 2014 alone, American cheese manufacturers (California and Wisconsin above all) released 2,228 milTQWV SQTW[ WN ¹1\ITQIVº KPMM[M[ WV the market, imitations that won out over local specialties, such as Cheddar and Monterey Jack, which sold 2,040 million kilos. Unfortunately, these fakes damage the opportunities for authentic Italian cheesemakers trying to break into the American market. Parmesan sold 144 million kilos, IJW]\ PITN \PM IUW]V\ WN OMV]QVM 8IZUQOQIVW UILM QV 1\ITa <PM 1\ITQIV government has launched a new campaign in the United States, Canada and Mexico to try to halt the plague of Italian-sounding products. New IVL ]V][]IT IXXZWIKPM[ IZM WV \PM _Ia <PM WZOIVQbI\QWV 1+- LMLQKI\ed to promoting Italian companies abroad, in collaboration with Food 6M\_WZS IVL 0MIZ[\ X]JTQKI\QWV[ PI[ LM^MTWXML <PM -`\ZIWZLQVIZa 1\ITQIV <I[\M XZWOZIU 1\[ OWIT Q[ \W MTQUQVI\M UQ[TMILQVO \MZU[ []KP I[ parmesan and salami from food vocabularies and help protect Italy’s cuTQVIZa PMZQ\IOM <PM XZWRMK\ XZM[MV\ML TI[\ week in the Hearst Building in New York, proposes a single brand for original Italian foods distributed abroad, a distinctive, easily recognized logo. It is a great opportunity that requires investment, according to Maurizio Forte, ICE president. Michael Clinton, president of Hearst Magazine, has vowed to give maximum visibility to Italian products in his publications to help educate knowledgeable consumers to refuse imita\QWV[ <PM XZWRMK\ XZWUW\ML Ja \PM 5QVistry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies, was presented last spring at EXPO in Milan and now is crossing the border with new international partners. Will this project cut the ground from under Italian-sounding?

8 DECEMBER 2015

EVENTS

by Marco Sabellico

TRE BICCHIERI IN MOSCOW Gambero Rosso and Italian wine return to Moscow. Despite the difficulties of the moment, the Russians still want what’s made in Italy. Events are sold out and visitors even come from Siberia. Now the sector is asking for a political solution.

mosca

Russia, sanctions and embargo. But Italian wine is still appealing. Only a couple of weeks have passed since the last three Gambero Rosso events in Asia (Tokyo, Shanghai and Hong Kong), but on a global level, a lot has happened – from the attacks on Paris to the rapprochement between Putin and Obama to the latest news about Russia-Turkey tensions. On November 19, our Tre Bicchieri Tour made its stop in Moscow, a key location in world happenings, but also important, on a smaller scale, to the Italian agricultural sector. The QUXIK\ _I[ XW_MZN]T 7^MZ ÅN\a \WX Italian producers wanted to grasp

the opportunity to consolidate their ties with an important market. The Russians, on their side, responded enthusiastically to Gambero Rosso’s invitation. Two thousand professionals – trade operators, enthusiasts and journalists – crowded into the hall of the Central Telegraph, a building from 1927, in the heart of Tverskaya, that once housed the city’s telecommunications center. Today it is used for exhibitions, events and shows. The serene and lighthearted atmosphere of the day could not completely dissipate the worries of both

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Italian and Russian professionals about trade between the two countries. Economic sanctions placed on Russia by the Western powers as a response to the annexation of the Crimea, of Sebastopol, then Donbass, led to the Russian embargo on European and American agricultural products. The damage, a year after its introduction, has amounted to about 300 million euros of lost income for the sector, according to the estimates of trade associations. The export of wine, for this reason, was severely curtailed. Italy lost ground, and the Russians unwillingly had to reduce their con[]UX\QWV 8IZ\QIT IVL ]VWNĂ…KQIT

sources tell of the halving of wine exports compared to the year before. 7NĂ…KQIT V]UJMZ[ [XMIS WN I reduction of wine in general. Although the topmost range of wines do not seem to be suffering much, mid-priced ones, those costing between 10 and 30 euros, are the most affected at the moment. Attention is shifting towards bulk wine and those bottles that cost less than 5 euros. “It’s a real shame,â€? said Dmitry Fedotov, of the Independent Wine Club and Winepages.ru and one of the most prestigious wine writers in Russia. “We worked for years to educate the Russian public about the great Italian wines, but today we are forced to buy less. Interest in Italian wine and Italian culinary products still is high, though.â€? One of the consequences of the sanctions-embargo combination has been an increase in agricultural production all over Russia, fostered by laws sustaining Russian farming and winegrowing. “We are at the dawn of a system of denominations of origin in Russia. The law will soon come out, and we will have wines from the Don Valley, from the Kuban Valley, from Stavropoljie, Crimea and Sebastopol, to name a few,â€? Fedotov explained. “This is a natural process of growth

11 DECEMBER 2015

that the sanctions sped along. Over the long run, although European products might fall out of favor due to the sanctions, for the moment the desire in Russia for excellent Italian wine, for Parmigiano Reggiano and Italian extra-virgin olive oil is still strong.â€? But the talk at the Tre Bicchieri event wasn’t only about politics. Everyone tasted and sipped. The producers met importers and a public of enthusiastic wine drinkers. The master class on Special Award wines from Vini d’Italia 2016 was, as usual, sold out, as was that about DOC Salice Salentino wines organized by the territory’s consortium. “We left home, Krasnodar, at four in the morning,â€? said Mikhail Shaburov, sommelier and president of an important wine club. “We wouldn’t have missed the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri event for anything in the world. We love Italy and its great wines, and tonight we’ll go back to Siberia happy. It was worth the trip.â€? We hope his focus on Italy is a good sign. Italians are still the top exporters of wine to the Russian market, and it’s \QUM \W Ă…VL I XWTQ\QKIT [WT]\QWV \W \PM problem. But while the talk goes on, many Russian importers have closed their doors.

EVENTS

by Lorenzo Ruggeri

ZURICH AND WARSAW, THE LAST TWO STOPS zurich

The last two stops on the Gambero Rosso World Tour: from an historic market like Zurich to an expanding city like the Polish capital where the path is eased by minimal taxation, a favorable exchange and growing GNP.

Not just vodka. The Warsaw pact with Italian wine Zurich

Zurich is a well-consolidated stop on our tour, thanks to numbers. Like Italy, Switzerland consumes almost 40 liters per year per person, with spending, on average, among the highest in Europe. Data NZWU \PM Ă…Z[\ UWV\P[ WN NZWU 1;<)< \PM 6I\QWVIT 1V[\Q\]\M for Statistics) tell us that Switzerland is number four in the world among countries importing Italian wine, with a growth in value of 1\ITQIV _QVM IKKW]V\[ NWZ WN \PMQZ _QVM QUXWZ\[ [TQOP\Ta IPMIL WN .ZIVKM <PM M^MV\ KWVĂ…ZUML [WUM SMa XWQV\[ <PM Swiss pay careful attention to and have deep knowledge of neighboring Piedmont. A major group of consumers look for rich, structured reds, with Amarone leading, and interest in Puglia high. WinMZQM[ XZWL]KQVO UIQVTa _PQ\M[ PI^M UWZM LQNĂ…K]T\a J]\ \PQ[ Q[ IT[W where the opportunities lie, especially for wines from distant places. š1 IU TWWSQVO NWZ KMZ\QĂ…ML WZOIVQK _QVMZQM[ \W MVTIZOM Ua XWZ\NWTQW Interest in these wines is growing here, and there are excellent pos[QJQTQ\QM[ NWZ XZWĂ…\ <PM UIZSM\ Q[ ZMILa NWZ VM_ QLMI[ Âş KWUUMV\ML Jan Kux from Persovino.

Warsaw

From Zurich, probably Europe’s most expensive city – a 10-minute taxi ride costs the equivalent of 40 euros – we moved on to the PolQ[P KIXQ\IT )N\MZ I ÆQOP\ WN \_W PW]Z[ _Q\PW]\ KPIVOQVO TI\Q\]LM we reached a city that in 1944 was almost entirely razed to the ground after the population revolted against the Nazis. The lack of support from the Russian Army, motionless on the other bank of the Vistula River, is still a lively subject of debate among histo-

12 DECEMBER 2015

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rians. Today Warsaw is a remarkably clean and orderly, rapidly growing city. Building sites are everywhere. Numbers don’t tell the whole story, but the Polish GNP has grown more \PIV W^MZ \PM TI[\ \MV aMIZ[ Some economist predict that between 2025 and 2030, Poland’s GNP will equal Italy’s. Thanks to a more favorable exchange, here, a 40-minute taxi ride cost 9 euros. Everywhere we found people speaking excellent English. Over the last few years, the number of wine shops and wine bars has doubled. We wandered around the aisles of Star Wines, Mielyznski and Alewino. The latter is one of the best bistros and wine bars we’ve seen anywhere in recent years. The food is exquisite and the wine list features carefully chosen small producers. The atmosphere is relaxed and fun, attracting the city’s most devoted wine lovers. In Warsaw too, Italy means mostly red wine and a lot of prosecco – metodo KTI[[QKW PI[ VW\ UILM I LMV\ 7VM ÅOure is striking: very contained mark-

ups. Taxation on alcohol is a relatively UQTL ;WUM\QUM[ _M [I_ 1\ITQIV bottles on the shelves at lower prices than we are used to seeing at home. Sommeliers and wine bar owners, almost always in their early 30s, do notable tasting research. We found this attentiveness during our event as well. ?M LQLVÂź\ M`XMK\ \W [MM []KP I ÆW_ WN people or such a sophisticated level of participation. In the seminar we conducted with Ewa Wielezynska, deputy editor-in-chief of Wino Magazine (our partner for the event), questions were pertinent, sharp and curious. The seminar, scheduled to last 90 minutes, went over three hours, because a public of trade operators and bloggers were deeply interested in Italy, its wines, and especially, its indigenous varieties. The day after the event we were in Piccola Italia, a chain of shops specialized in Italian products, where they stocked 300 types of cheeses and cured meats as well as many wine labels. “Italian producers IZM Ă…VITTa JMOQVVQVO \W ]VLMZ[\IVL what the opportunities are on the Polish marketplace. I certainly can’t hope to sell only top products, so in this market, the quality/price rapport is even more important,â€? commented wine shop owner Andrzj Sajniak, Wine consumption in Poland is growQVO I\ IJW]\ IVV]ITTa 0Q[ [WV Wojciech added, “Drinking spirits is not as fashionable among the young. Drinking wine, especially considering the social relations it brings with it, is on the way up. My generation asks for wine, and wants to talk about it.â€? Not only wine bars, but all eating XTIKM[ QV ?IZ[I_ IZM ÆW]ZQ[PQVO Good food is truly affordable. We’ll close with a locale that opened only three months ago on Plac Teatralny. It offers a menu of 300 vodkas, and two different vodkas are recommended for each dish. The pairings are perfect and the food, especially the herring, excellent. One detail struck us: the table next to ours was drinking wine.

A TASTE CA LL E D MA DE I N S I C I LY. T h e C o n s o r t iu m C.A.M.B.R .I .A. b orn i n S i c i l y , no waday s i s a wi ne s p i n n e re t , w h i ch p rom ot ed a n d a d ve r ti s e d i ts f i nal pr o duc ts . T h e C o n s o r t iu m , a m b a ssa d or of the "M ade i n S i c i l y " i s r e ady t o g e t t h e ma i n role of t h e m ost i mpo r tant nati o nal pr o duc e r s o f w i n e s . T h e p r o d u c e d w i n es a re b orn u p o n the Fur nar i hi l l s , i n the he ar t o f t h e M a m e rt i n o D oc a rea , exa ctl y o n the s l o pe s o f t h e Ti n d a r i N eb rod i m ou n t a i n s, 45 km we s t o f M e s s i na. T h e y a re Pr ot ect ed Geog ra p h i ca l I ndi c ati o n a n d D e n o m in a t i on of Prot ect ed O r i gi n wi ne s , a m o n g w h i c h w e fi n d loca l v a ri eti e s l i ke N o c e r a , N e r o d ’ Av ola , N erello Ma s c al e s e ; t h e r e a re also sm a ll q u a n t i t i es of whi te g r a p e s , a ‘ sh i n y’ Ca t a rra t t o, I n z o l i a, G re c a n i c o , Gri llo a n d ot h er q u a n ti ti e s o f n o n - t r a d i t i o n a l g ra p e v a ri et i es li ke S y r ah a n d C h a rd o n n a y i n a t erri t ory tha has a n a t u ra l a nd ext ra ord i n a ry p edo c l i mati c c o n d i t i o n , a ri g h t exp osu re t o w i nds as i t f a c e s n o r t h a n d i s p rot ect ed f r o m the Ti nd a r i - N e b rodi mou n tain s; th is repr e s e nts t h e i d e a l c on d i t i on t o en su re t h e e qui l i br ate d g r o w t h o f v i n es, a s w ell a s oli v e s . I t p r o m o t e s g ood m a t u ra t i on of t he gr ape s ri c h i n a r o m a a n d i n t erest i n g g ra dati o n.

Furnari (Messina) Italy

www.consorziocambria.it info@consorziocambria.it

ADIMMAGINE:it

A n d i t i s w i t h g rea t p ri d e t h a t t h e C o ns o r ti um C A M B RI A p r e s e n t s t h e r esu lt of Ma g n i fi cen ce : M as tr o ni c o l a N o c e r a . T h e w i n e h a s g ot t h e ch a r m o f an E mpe r o r, r e a d y t o c o n qu er t h e fu t u re. T h i s p r e c i o u s j ew el of d i st i n g u i sh ed f i ne s s e , o btai ne d f r o m a n a d v a n ced v i n i fi ca t i on p roc e s s and a c ar e f ul a g e i n g p h a s e i n b a rri q u es, w i ll t ouc h y o u wi th i ts u n i q u e n e s s , i t s soft n ess, i t s a u t h en t i c i ty and f o r i ts u n m i s t a ka b l e an d p ersi st en t a rom a. T he c o mme ndabl e o r g a n o l e p t i c a n d t a st e q u a li t y of t h e gr ape s and t h e ri g o r o f t h e v i n i fi ca t i on , , a llow e d the M as tr o ni c o l a h a s b e e n a w ard ed b et w een “TOP H U NDRE D 20 1 2” , t h e b e s t w i n e s of I t a ly.

WINE OF THE MONTH

The Brunello under the tree Brunello di Montalcino ‘10 Uccelliera 18,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 39.50 euros For our December issue, we looked for a bottle we would like to see under our Christmas tree, the gift we would love to receive. Among the thousands that came to mind, the one we all agreed on was Brunello 2010 by Uccelliera. Andrea Cortonesi’s Brunello labels have strong personalities. His declaredly southern style often divides critics and wine enthusiasts, but he is universally respected for the way in which territorial character comes together with the interpretative sensibility of an authentic vigneron. The Uccelliera estate lies on six hectares in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, the extreme southeast section of Montalcino. Medium-density clayeysandy soil prevails, at altitudes of about 250 meters IJW^M [MI TM^MT >QVQÅKI\QWV Q[ ILR][\ML \W MIKP TIVL parcel and to the peculiarities of each vintage year, with barriques being called upon from time to time alongside untoasted Slavonian oak casks. Given the warm zone and the overall cool year, we were expecting great things from the Brunello ’10 of Uccelliera. But we could never have imagined anything as stunning as this: incense, balsam, peppery spices – the enormous power of its fruit continues with surgical precision right up through the long, tonic, thirst-quenching close. A wine of this importance and one that keeps its delicious drinkability goes perfectly with a lamb roast, cooked slowly in the oven with sprigs of rosemary and grindings of black pepper. Accompany it with potatoes browned in the cooking fat - perfect for Christmas dinner. Auguri!

16 DECEMBER 2015

TWITTER dixit Jon Thorsen

More Christmas decorations going up...

Winelovers Unite!! The prayer

Chaumette Winery

The Wine Wankers

So true!

What about two?

Julien Miquel

4 Seasons in the Vineyard. All Colors are in wine

Jamie Goode

Complaining about wine writers ignoring mass market wine is akin to lamenting the TIKS WN ZM[\I]ZIV\ ZM^QM_[ WN NI[\ NWWL RWQV\[

Neal Martin

/W\ \PM NMMTQVO _M¼ZM OWQVO \W LZQVS I NM_ wines tonight.

Eric Asimov

1 ÅVL Q\ PIZL \W \Z][\ KPMN[ _PW[M VIUM[ IZM plastered all over airports. 18 DECEMBER 2015

Family traditions since 5 generations

Via Costabella, 9 - 37011 Bardolino (VR) Lago di Garda - Tel. +39 045 7210022 - zeni.it

DESIGN

OUT OF THE BOX

be used to store bottles. The Cavò modules have an ‘intelligent’ depth of only 35.8 centimeters, which falls between the standard kitchen countertop depth of 46 centimeters and that of space-saving furniture, 25 centimeters. The modules come in varied widths. For example, Cavò 1 is 12 centimeters wide. Cavò 2 is 24 centimeters wide. Cavò 3 and Cavò 6 are 35.8 centimeters wide. In this way, with Cavò, we can use little corners of the house, but also furnish entire walls of wine shops or cellars. For those who want a more creative solution, we can provide ideas and consultation, as we did with Vino Libero, for the Farinetti family. This year we created wine rack compositions for the restaurants and wine shops that show this logo.

To recycle wine crates in a creative way is essential to avoiding waste and reducing impact on the environment. The idea is not only innovative, but has made it possible to decorate large spaces with care and elegance, while giving new life to the crates. The project is called Cavò, and won an Honorable Mention at Compasso d’Oro 2014, chosen from other design products by an international jury. The credit goes to Enrico Accettola, entrepreneur and creator of the Cavò project. He explains how the crates can be completely transformed into real furniture.

Cavò can also be decorated with designs. Do you use Italian artists for this? Cavò can be personalized by silk screen printing, hot stamping or laser engraving, with decorative motifs, logos,

How and when did Cavò start? Cavò began in 2011 as an innovative, versatile and modular wine rack. I was convinced of the value of the idea, and to develop it, I involved two designers, Nevio Capuzzo and Michele Grion. The objective was to transform the simple wooden box for transporting wine bottles that has always been used by winemakers and wineries into an object of modular design that not only transports but also stores and exhibits the bottles. Cavò crates come in four types, for 1, 2, 3 or 6 bottles, with an internal structure in recycled cardboard that guarantees the contents total protection and can be moved to accommodate most wine bottle formats. It is an anti-waste idea, and totally new for the sector. What are some of the possible uses for Cavò? Cavò does what the classic crates used by producers need to do. It shows the wine bottles to advantage, plus, it can

20 DECEMBER 2015

MARCO SCARPA

phrases and images that represent the personality of the buyer. Personalized Cavò items have been produced for special events on demand, but in general it is work aimed at businesses. In the future, we would like to develop a line dedicated to art, by means of a competition aimed at young artists.

negotiations for distribution in Switzerland, Germany, Japan, Spain, Greece, the Czech Republic, France and the USA. Our intention is to consolidate these markets and continue our expansion, especially in those places where wine is produced and in the countries – more and more numerous – where wine is appreciated and consumed.

In 2014, the project received an Honorable Mention at the Compasso d’Oro 2014. Did that award affect your sales? In 2014, the international jury of the Compasso d’Oro prize nominated by the ADI (Association for Industrial Design) and made up of critics, historians, designers and journalists, assigned an Honorable Mention to Cavò in the prestigious Premio Compasso d’Oro, one of the most authoritative in the world. This prize named Cavò as one of the best contemporary Italian design products, equal \W XZWRMK\[ KZMI\ML Ja _WZTL NIUW][ LM[QOVMZ[ <PQ[ WNÅKQIT KWVÅZUI\QWV WN \PM ]VQY]MVM[[ WN W]Z XZWRMK\ OI^M ][ great satisfaction, and our clients as well. It is an excellent incentive for all start-ups that further Italian values.

)ZM \PMZM W\PMZ LM[QOV XZWRMK\[ QV \PM _WZS[ \PI\ Cavò is developing? In 2014, in additions to the wine racks, we made some useful house accessories such as drawers, bookshelves and bases. In 2015, we created the model Cavò Espositore (Exhibitor), starting with the need of winemakers to show the labels of their bottles. Right now we are involved in making various prototypes. We’re not short of ideas. We invite you to watch what we’re doing…we’ll certainly surprise you! by Stefania Annese www.cavodoc.it

,WM[ +I^ M`XMK\ \W ÅVL I UIZSM\ W]\[QLM 1\ITa I[ well? The concept and production of Cavò are Italian. The project is sustainable and attentive to the environment. Its production material (birch plywood) makes Cavò easily exportable. In many countries where legislation for imports is rigid, such as the USA or Japan, various types of wood , in order to be imported, have to be fumigated. In the case of our plywood, it’s not necessary because it respects the required standards. Up to now, we have had contacts and 21 DECEMBER 2015

DO AS UMBRI

PAIRING

drawing by Chiara Buosi

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

Cheese bread GRECHETTO DI TODI

SCHIAVA

FIANO FSOAVE

frappato

morellino

verdicchio

Agnolotti with truffles ROSSO DI TORGIANO

FSOAVE

frappato

verdicchio

morellino

Strangozzi with garlic sauce

CILIEGIOLO DI NARNI 22 DECEMBER 2015

THE IANS DO Chickpeas and chestnut soup

COLLI MARTANI SANGIOVESE

Squab in red wine MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO

Umbrian Strudel ORVIETO CLASSICO SUPERIORE MUFFA NOBILE 23 DECEMBER 2015

FOODIES

MANTUA, FOOD FIT FOR A DUKE The Gonzaga family must have been discriminating diners. Still today, the kitchens of Mantua are following recipes that were first selected and perfected by the chefs of the court. To give you an idea of the family’s palate, visit the Cento Rampini restaurant and order Cappone alla Stefani (capon). The recipe, dated 1662, was signed by the court chef Bartolomeo Stefani. Mantovana mostarda, a sweet and peppery chutney, often added to the tortelli stuffing, is still eaten alongside the Grana Padano cheese produced in the zone. These products, plus Lambrusco mantovano DOC (from the ViadaneseSabbionetana and OltrePò areas) and thick-grained peasant-style salami, full of garlic, are specialties that can be bought

At the heart of daily life in Mantua is a culinary tradition that dates back to noble Renaissance courts. This land of fog and water, of rich vegetables (squash, especially) and fresh-water fish was the domain of the Gonzaga family

NADIA AND ANTONIO SANTINI

24 DECEMBER 2015

at the Salumeria Bacchi. At Ristorante la Cucina, the seasons and local growers’ advice influence the typical dishes on the menu, but all is updated to modern taste. In a minimalist chic atmosphere, the focus is on historic recipes and variations, such as goose breast salad with berries or the famous Mantuan Sbrisolona, a crumb tart enriched here with semi-sweet chocolate chips, available also for takeaway. The other starring dessert is called Elvetia: created by a Swiss pastry chef, Samson Putscher, it blends almond paste and zabaglione, two favorite indulgences of the Gonzaga gang. Another local specialty is pumpkin tortelli. Two places are famous for their versions of this filled pasta, the Locanda delle Grazie, in Curtatone (awarded Three Gamberi in our guide, the highest ranking for trattorias), and the prize-winning family-owned restaurant Dal Pescatore in Canneto sull’ Oglio. Its chef, Nadia Santini, was recognized in 2013 by Veuve Clicquot as the World’s Best Female Chef. by Valentina Castellano Chiodo ADDRESSES MANTUA SALUMERIA BACCHI ^QI 7ZMÅKQ \MT CENTO RAMPINI X bbI LMTTM -ZJM \MT ! LA CUCINA ^QI 7JMZLIV \MT CURTATONE (MN) LOCANDA DELLE GRAZIE fraz. Grazie ^QI 8QW @ \MT

PIKE WITH POLENTA LOCANDA DELLE GRAZIE

PUMPKIN TORTELLI LOCANDA DELLE GRAZIE

25 DECEMBER 2015

CANNETO SULL’OGLIO (MN) DAL PESCATORE TWK :]VI\M \MT ___ LITXM[KI\WZM KWU

WINE

THE RATING GAME DIFFERENT STROKES FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS

publication in 1988. The New World gains ground, with Australia, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa and Argentina showing up along with 30 United States labels. And Italy, with 20 names (one in fourth place and one in eighth), easily pulled ahead of France which saw only 14 wines in the Top 100, only one of which was in the Top 10.

T

Which were the Italian wines that appealed to the American critics? Are they the same that Italian wine journalists admired? Have the two sides of the Atlan\QK JMO]V W^MZ \QUM \W ÅVL KWUUWV OZW]VL QV \MZU[ of taste? Our guide, Vini d’Italia, has been taking the pulse of Italian wine for almost 30 years, and we know that our opinions about many of the wines in the Top 100 WN\MV LQNNMZ [QOVQÅKIV\Ta NZWU \PW[M WN ?QVM ;XMK\I\WZ The most obvious example is right there at the top, in fourth place. With a score of 95/100, Brunello di Montalcino ’10 from Tenuta Il Poggione is in one of the year’s most prestigious positions, standing among the world’s best wines. Although we recognized the high quality of this Brunello, whose “enfolding, dynamic aromas” we appreciated, nevertheless in our 2016 guide, the wine was still a breath away from Tre Bicchieri, awarded Due Bicchieri rossi, the next highest category. For us, it was held back by a slight lack of complexity that will probably be resolved after further bottle-aging, a factor that evidently did not affect the American magazine’s evaluation. The story is similar for Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Vaio Armaron Serègo Alighieri ’08, 95/100 points and in eighth place. In the 2015 Vini d’Italia it won Due Bicchieri. We amused ourselves by comparing our judgments about the other 18 Italian labels on the Wine Spectator’s list. The only one upon which we completely agreed was Bartolo Mascarello and his Barolo ’10.

owards the end of every year, without fail, Wine Spectator, probably the most influential voice in the world of wine, publishes its “Top 100”. For wine enthusiasts, it is the year’s most anxiously awaited list. The 2015 leaders are largely, like the publication, American, which is hardly surXZQ[QVO 0MILQVO \PM TQ[\ _M ÅVL Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Au Paradis 2012 from Peter Michal Winery in Napa Valley, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2012 from Quilceda Creek in the state of Washington. In third place is Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Seven Springs Vineyard La Source 2012 from Evening Land in Oregon. Looking over the ratings, we see a map of global wine emerging, with new points of referMVKM _PMV KWUXIZML \W Q\[ ÅZ[\ 26

NOVEMBER 2015

Brunello di Montalcino ’10 La Serena WS: 13th, 96/100 GR: not evaluated

Il Fauno ’10 Arcanum WS: 55th, 92/100 GR: (2016)

Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli ’10 Altesino WS: 18th, 98/100 GR: (2016)

Barolo ’11 Oddero WS: 62nd, 93/100 GR: which Barolo? which Oddero?

Nobile di Montepulciano Ris. ’10 Carpineto WS: 26th, 93/100 GR: not evaluated Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali ’10 Livio Sassetti WS: 27th, 95/100 GR: not evaluated Bolgheri Volpolo ’12 Poderi Sapaio WS: 41st, 93/100 GR: (2015) Brunello di Montalcino ’10 Collosorbo WS: 43rd, 94/100 GR: (2016) Chianti Classico ’11 Castello d’Albola WS: 46th, 90/100 GR: (2015) Barolo ’10 Bartolo Mascarello WS: 50th, 97/100 GR: (2015) Ilatraia ’12 Brancaia WS: 52nd, 94/100 GR: (2015)

Primitivo di Manduria LXXIV Feudo di Santa Croce WS: 67th, 91/100 GR: not evaluated Bolgheri Sup. Guado al Tasso ’12 Guado al Tasso WS: 71st, 95/100 GR: (2016) Aglianico del Vulture ’12 D’Angelo WS: 74th, 90/100 GR: not evaluated FCO Pinot Grigio ’14 Torre Rosazza WS: 83rd, 90/100 GR: not evaluated Etna Rosso ’13 Tenuta delle Terre Nere WS: 87th, 90/100 GR: (2016) Zisola ’13 Zisola WS: 89th, 90/100 GR: (2016) Nardò Nerio ’12 Ris. Schola Sarmenti WS: 93rd, 90/100 GR: not evaluated

27 NOVEMBER 2015

But Wine Spectator is not the only magazine unfurling ratings of world wines. A few days ago, “The Enthusiast 100” came out, the list of the world’s 100 best wines according to the numerous tastings of the Wine Enthusiast critics, another important American magazine. Here too, American wine leads the pack with 30 labels, followed by France (18) and Italy (17). But if France won here, we can console ourselves with a Chianti Classico that can look down on all the other 99 bottles. Chianti Classico Il Grigio da San Felice Gran Selezione ’11 from San Felice winery attained the highest position on the podium, ahead of Petite Petit ’12 from Michael David (California), and Wichmann Dundee Estate Riesling ’14 from Trisaetum (Oregon). In our 2016 guide, Il Grigio di San Felice ’11 won a Tre Bicchieri award thanks to its “complex and fragrant nose and its tangy, deep and succulent palate”: here we are in perfect agreement with the 95/100 assigned by Wine Enthusiast. But can we say the same for the other Italian wines in the top 100? Let’s see.

WINE

Borgonero ’11 Borgo Scopeto WE: 10th; 94/100 GR: (2016) Lugana Sup. Vigne di Catullo Ris. ’12 Tenuta Roveglia WE: 17th; 94/100 GR: (2016)

Brunello di Montalcino Varco ’10 Molino di Sant’Antimo WE: 37th; 95/100 GR: not evaluated Faro Quattroenne ’12 Le Casematte WE: 41st; 94/100 GR: (2015)

Barolo Cannubi ’11 Damilano WE: 68th; 95/100 GR: not evaluated Brunello di Montalcino ’10 Ridolfi WE: 72nd; 94/100 GR: not evaluated

Chianti Rufina ’13 Selvapiana WE: 23rd, 93/100 GR: (2016)

Noto Santa Cecilia ’11 Planeta WE: 54th; 94/100 GR: (2015)

Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Gaso ’09 San Rustico WE: 78th; 94/100 GR: (2016)

Barolo V. Lazzairasco ’11 Guido Porro WE: 31st; 95/100 GR: (2016)

Valdobbiadene Sup. Vign. Della Riva di San Floriano Brut ’14 Nino Franco WE: 57th; 93/100 GR: (2016)

Fiano di Avellino Ventidue ’13 Villa Raiano WE: 81st; 93/100 GR: (2016)

Barbaresco ’12 Sottimano WE: 60th; 94/100 GR: which Barbaresco?

Etna Bianco ’13 Tenuta delle Terre Nere WE: 84th; 92/100 GR: (2015)

Soave Cl. Calvarino ’12 Leonildo Pieropan WE: 64th; 93/100 GR: (2015); (the 2013 is a in the 2016 guide)

Carema Etichetta Bianca ’10 Ferrando WE: 89th; 94/100 GR: (2015)

If we had to choose between one of these two lists, although it’s a close call, we would tend towards that of Wine Enthusiast. That’s not only because two more Tre Bicchieri appear in the list when compared to Wine Spectator. It seems to us that the picture of Italian wine presented is more intriguing. The usual Brunello, Barolo, Amarone and Chianti labels show up, but this time they are joined by smaller denominations, or at least, ones that are not yet successful abroad. A notable instance is Fiano d’Avellino 22 from Villa Raiano, which the American critics appreciated, not WVTa NWZ Q\[ KWUXTM` IZWUI\QK XZWÅTM J]\ IT[W NWZ Q\[ UQVMZIT MVergy and impeccable, balanced acidity, the same qualities that we liked so much.

28 NOVEMBER 2015

We want to close this review with the news, by now a few months old, that two 100/100 scores were given by Robert Parker and his standard bearer in Italy, Monica Larner, to two Brunello di Montalcino bottles from the glorious 2010 vintage year. The two wines that won this neat, round number, which sends the labels to the peak of the world’s wines, were Tenuta Nuova ’10 from Casanova di Neri and Madonna delle Grazie ’10 from Il Marroneto. Of the latter, we write in the 2016 guide: “Heartrending aromas of incense, forest ÆWWZ IVL XMVKQT TMIL WXMVQVO QV\W multiple layers in the majestic tannic architrave,” pointing out all the components that make this an icon-

ic product, not just for the Montalcino zone, but for the entire Italian wine panorama. It easily won Tre Bicchieri. The story is a little different, though, for Tenuta Nuova. “which is ITT IJW]\ ZQXM NZ]Q\ IVL I ÆI^WZ \PI\ Q[ broad rather than deep.” Here we did not confer our top rating, although we recognized the admirable quality of the wine. But our description is the perfect image of a type of wine that Americans seem to like best. Critics, and therefore the public, still prefer more easily approachable wines, with more rounded edges and sumptuous softness, characteristics that, in the socalled Old World, are perhaps considered a little passé.

AN INDISPENSABLE TOOL FOR FOODIES BUT EVEN MORE SO FOR INDUSTRY INSIDERS PROMOTING THE BEST OF MADE-IN-ITALY WORLDWIDE

www.gamberorosso.it

GREAT GRANDI VERTICAL VERTICALI TASTING

SAINT JAMES. 250 YEARS OF LIFE TRANSLATE INTO A GRAND RUM LM[QOV [\QTT PWTL[ \PM MV\QZM ZIVOM WN ;IQV\ 2IUM[ Z]U 1V \PM Ã…Z[\ ^QV\IOM :P]U )OZQKWTM _I[ JW\\TML <WLIa ;IQV\ 2IUM[ Q[ WVM WN \PM UW[\ XZM[\QOQW][ [XQZQ\[ QV \PM _WZTL ;QVKM Q\ PI[ JMMV XIZ\ WN \PM 5IZ\QVIY]IQ[M [XQZQ\[ OZW]X PMILML Ja 2MIV +TI]LM *MVWQ\ WVM WN \PM OZMI\M[\ XZWUW\MZ[ WN ZP]U IOZQKWTM IVL I SMa XMZ[WVITQ\a QV \PM KZMI\QWV WN \PM 5IZ\QVQY]M LMVWUQVI\QWV 1V 1\ITa \PM Z]U Q[ QUXWZ\ML Ja >MTQMZ IVL QVKT]LM[ IV M`KMX\QWVIT ZIVOM" >QM]` 0WZ[ L¼)OM <ZQTWOa IVL aMIZ[ WN IOQVO ^QV\IOM JW\\TM[ !!! IVL IVL M^MV +]^uM I JTMVL QV[XQZML Ja \PM WZQOQVIT [\aTM WN \PM MZI <PM IJ[WT]\M \WX WN \PM TQVM Q[ +]^uM vUM )VVQ^MZ[IQZM I \Z]M ZIZQ\a" [Q` WN \PM JM[\ ^QV\IOM[ M^MZ JMOQVVQVO _Q\P \PI\ \PI\ TI]VKPML \PM []KKM[[ WN :P]U )OZQKWTM ;IQV\ 2IUM[

To understand agricultural rum, or rhum agricole, and Saint James, we have to journey back in time. Two hunLZML IVL Ã…N\a aMIZ[ IOW QV \PM []OIZ XZWKM[[QVO NIKQTQ\QM[ WN <ZW] >IQTTIV\ QV 5IZ\QVQY]M _MZM ZMJ]QT\ IVL MVTIZOML \PIVS[ \W \PM _WZS WN \PM 5WVI[\MZa WN \PM *ZW\PMZ[ WN +PIZQ\a <PMa PIL IZZQ^ML I NM_ aMIZ[ MIZTQMZ \W Z]V I PW[XQ\IT QV \PM KQ\a -`XMZQMVKM QV _WZSQVO []OIZ KIVM IVL Z]U KIUM NZWU \PM .ZMVKP .I\PMZ /ZI\QMV *W]ZRW\ :]U [WWV JMKIUM IV M`XWZ\ [WTL \W \PM -VOTQ[P _Q\P \PM JTM[[QVO[ WN \PM ZWaIT I]\PWZQ\a <PM ;IQV\ 2IUM[ JZIVL VIUM IXXMIZML UWZM \PIV I KMV\]Za TI\MZ _PMV 8I]TQV 4IUJMZ\ IV MV\ZMXZMVM]ZQIT \ZILMZ NZWU 5IZ[MQTTM[ ZMOQ[\MZML \PM \ZILMUIZS IVL IJW^M ITT I JW\\TM _Q\P I [Y]IZM JI[M LM[QOVML \W WX\QUQbM [XIKM [I^QVO IVL UQVQUQbM JZMISIOM <PI\ JW\\TM

30 DECEMBER 2015

RHUM AGRICOLE SAINT JAMES CUVÉE 250ĂˆME ANNIVERSAIRE The six best vintage years ever: 1875, 1934, 1952, 1976, 1998, 2000. The bottle reproduces the carrĂŠe shape, invented and trademarked in 1882. A great selector, Marc Sassier, president of the AOC Martinique tasting commission, is responsible for this sensational rhum agricole that manages to combine depth, history, tradition, modernity, and the magic that takes us on a journey through time.

2010

4M\Âź[ [\IZ\ _Q\P \PM UW[\ ZMKMV\ XI[\ <PM aMIZ \PI\ UIZSML \PM UQTTMVVQ]U KPIVOM OQ^M[ ][ I Z]U WN OZMI\ I][\MZQ\a KPIZIK\MZQbML Ja JIT[IUQK VW\M[ WN QVKMV[M IVL ZM[QV <PM XITI\M Q[ \I]\ IVL XMXXMZa \PM ITKWPWT XMZNMK\Ta JITIVKML <PM Ă…VQ[P Q[ LMMX IVL TQOP\Ta [I^WZa TMI^QVO \PM UW]\P KTMIV IVL NZM[P

1998

<PM aW]\PN]TVM[[ WN \PQ[ Z]U UWZM \PIV aMIZ[ IN\MZ Q\[ JQZ\P Q[ IUIbQVO ) KWUXTM` VW[M UW^M[ JM\_MMV ÆWZIT IVL NZ]Q\a VW\M[ )XZQKW\ aMTTW_ IXXTM _Q[\MZQI IVL I \W]KP WN PMTQKPZa[]U IZWUI[ XZMKMLM I [WN\ TQOP\Ta [_MM\ XITI\M _MTT KWV\ZI[\ML Ja IKQLQK \MV[QWV IZWUI\QK X]VOMVKa IVL _IZU UW]\P ÅTTQVO ITKWPWT

1976

) OZMI\ ^QV\IOM aMIZ \PI\ JMOQV[ \W LQ[XTIa ITT \PM \MZ\QIZa VW\M[ \PI\ WVTa I []XMZJ Z]U KIV OQ^M <PM VW[M Q[ NI[KQVI\QVO _Q\P [ML]K\Q^M VW\M[ WN JIZTMa []OIZ KIVLa ^IVQTTI IVL [XQKM[ <PMV ITT \PM XZQUIZa XIZ\ KWUM[ NWZ_IZL JMOQVVQVO _Q\P aMTTW_ ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ \PI\ TMIL[ \W walnut hull and chestnut sensations.

1952

) ^QV\IOM aMIZ ZQKP QV KWV\ZI[\[ 7V \PM VW[M JW\P [_MM\ VW\M[ M[XMKQITTa ^IVQTTI IVL JQ\\MZ WVM[ _Q\P ZWW\[ IVL ZM[QV LWUQVI\QVO 1UUMLQI\MTa NWZKMN]T IVL I[[MZ\Q^M QV \PM UW]\P <PM TQOP\ X]VOMVKa WN \PM ITKWPWT Q[ KWV\ZI[\ML Ja [WN\VM[[ IVL _IZU\P ) [TQOP\Ta JQ\\MZ Ă…VQ[P _Q\P VW\M[ WN OQVOMZ IVL JTIKS XMXXMZ MUMZOQVO

1934

1\Ÿ[ QVKZMLQJTM \W JM IJTM \W \I[\M IV aMIZ WTL Z]U IVL Q\Ÿ[ M^MV UWZM [W _PMV \PM Ÿ OQ^M[ ][ aW]\PN]T VW\M[ WN NZ]Q\ ÆW_MZ[ IVL [XQKM[ .ZWU \PM [\IZ\ I \W]KP WN PIbMTV]\ NWTTW_ML Ja KPIUWUQTM ÆW_MZ[ LIQ[QM[ IVL NZM[P OQVOMZ <PM XITI\M Q[ [UWW\P IVL ^MT^M\a KZMIUa IVL Æ]QL

1875

1\Âź[ LQNĂ…K]T\ \W JM WJRMK\Q^M _PMV aW] \I[\M I Z]U \PQ[ WTL 1\Âź[ M^MV UWZM LQNĂ…K]T\ _PMV _M SVW_ Q\Âź[ \PM Ă…Z[\ ^QV\IOM aMIZ Z]U \W JM JW\\TML <M`\ JWWS KWUXTM`Q\a IVL I LMMX XITI\M \PI\ VM^MZ [MMU[ \W TW[M ^Q^IKQ\a <PM IZWUI[ [MMU I OZIVL []U WN ITT \PM ^QV\IOM[ \I[\ML JMNWZM 8MZPIX[ Q\ Q[ \PM XW_MZ WN \PQ[ I[[MUJTIOM \PI\ QV[XQZML \PM +]^uM vUM )VVQ^MZ[IQZM <PM \MIKPM[ ][ \PM PQ[\WZa WN ^QV\IOM Z]U *]\ \PMV _M LQ[KW^MZ \PI\ ITT PI^M [WUMthing to say about their year and their longevity, but only when \ISMV \WOM\PMZ LW \PMa WNNMZ I \Z]M ZM\]ZV \W \PM XI[\

. 31 DECEMBER 2015

NEGRAR: THE MANY SOULS OF AMARONE

32 DECEMBER 2015

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33 DECEMBER 2015

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FROM THE HIGHEST VINEYARDS IN THE FIVE VALLEYS, THE ESSENCE OF THE TERRITORY: Lโ EVOLUTO, Lโ AUSTERO, LO SPEZIATO, IL COMPLESSO AND IL SUADENTE 1V >ITXWTQKMTTI \PM LQNNMZMVKM[ JMtween one territory and another PI^M IT_Ia[ JMMV UMI[]ZML IVL [\]LQML 1V ! /QW^IVVQ *I\\Q[\I 8MZMb _ZW\M La Provincia di Verona e i suoi vini QV _PQKP PM M`XTIQVML XZMKQ[MTa \PM LQ^MZ[Q\a WN \PM _QVM[ QV \PM \MZZQ\WZQM[ <PM ยน)UIZWVM -[XZM[[QWVQยบ XZWRMK\ M^WT^ML NZWU \PQ[ QUXWZ\IV\ TQ\\TM ^WT]UM IVL NZWU \PM OZMI\ IL^IV\IOM \PM KWWXMZI\Q^M MVRWa[ NZWU PI^QVO ^QVMaIZL[ QV ITT ร ^M ^ITTMa[ WN \PM PQ[\WZQK >ITXWTQKMTTI ยท 6MOZIZ ;IV 8QM\ZW QV +IZQIVW 5IZIVW .]UIVM IVL ;IV\ยผ)UJZWOQW <PM ZM[]T\ _I[ >QTTI +I[\MTZW\\W ;IV :WKKW 5Ibb]ZMOI IVL 5WV\M XZWL]K\[ QV \PM ,WUQVQ >MVM\Q _QVMZa KZ] TQVM

<PM ^MZa VIUM[ WN \PM[M ร ^M )UIZWVM TIJMT[ TMIL ][ JIKS \W \PMQZ \MZZQ\WZQM[ WN WZQOQV IVL \PMQZ ^QVMaIZL[ IVL \PMZMNWZM \W \PM \aXQKQ\a WN \PM LQNNMZMV\ \MZZWQZ[ <PM[M KPIZIK\MZQ[\QK[ ITWVO _Q\P \PM ^IZQM\QM[ WN OZIXM[ ][ML ZMVLMZ MIKP WVM WN \PM ร ^M )UIZWVM TIJMT[ ZMKWOVQbIJTM IVL I]\PMV\QK 4ยผ-^WT]\W )UIZWVM +I[\MTZW\\W XZWL]KML QV \PM ^ITTMa WN ;IV 8QM\ZW QV +IZQIVW PI[ KWUXTM` IVL M\PMZMIT IZWUI[ _Q\P [QTSa IVL [ML]K\Q^M \IVVQV[ 4ยผ)][\MZW )UIZWVM >QTTI \PM ^MZ[QWV _WV <ZM *QKKPQMZQ QV XZWL]KML QV \PM 6MOZIZ ^ITTMa LQ[XTIa[ I[[MZ\Q^M ITKWPWT XZM[MZ^ML KPMZZa IVL JTIKS XMXXMZ NZIOZIVKM[ 4W ;XMbQI\W )UIZWVM ;IV :WKKW \PM ^QV\IOM _WV <ZM *QKKPQMZQ QV \PM _QVM NZWU \PM 5IZIVW ^ITTMa [PW_[ LMTQKI\M VW\M[ WN KTW^M[ IVL PI[ I XZWVW]VKML UQVMZIT KPIZIK\MZ 1T +WUXTM[[W )UIZWVM 5Ibb]ZMOI

NZWU \PM .]UIVM ^ITTMa PI[ M^QLMV\ VW\M[ WN \WJIKKW IVL TMI\PMZ _PQTM 1T ;]ILMV\M )UIZWVM 5WV\M NZWU \PM ;IV\ยผ)UJZWOQW ^ITTMa XZM[MV\[ ]VUQ[\ISIJTM VW\M[ WN [_MM\ ZML RIU <PM N]\]ZM KWUXM\Q\Q^MVM[[ WN >ITXWTQKMTTI TQM[ QV \PM ^IT]M WN \PQ[ \aXQKQ\a ยน?Q\P \PM ยน)UIZWVM -`XZM[[QWVQยบ XZWRMK\ _M ZM[MIZKPML LQNNMZMVKM[ QV WZLMZ \W INร ZU \PM >ITXWTQKMTTI QLMV\Q\a IVL I\ \PM [IUM \QUM I\\IQV ]VQY]M QVQUQ\IJTM WZQOQVITQ\a QV W]Z _QVM[ ยบ M`XTIQV[ ,IVQMTM )KKWLQVQ LQZMK\WZ WN +IV\QVI >ITXWTQKMTTI 6MOZIZ ยนWZQOQVITQ\a \PI\ [PW]TLVยผ\ JM ]VLMZ[\WWL I[ I _QVM [\aTM IKPQM^ML \PZW]OP [WUM WN \PM [XMKQIT \MKPVQY]M[ MUXTWaML Ja [\IZ _QVMUISMZ[ ยบ )KKWZLQVQ ILL[ ยนJ]\ ZI\PMZ I _QVM [\aTM \PI\ ZMXZM[MV\[ W]Z \MZZQ\WZa QV \PM UW[\ NIQ\PN]T _Ia XW[[QJTM IVL [W ZMVLMZ[ W]Z _QVM[ more expressive.โ

RENZO BIGHIGNOLI, PRESIDENT CANTINA VALPOLICELLA NEGRAR

GENERAL MANAGER DANIELE ACCORDINI

THE ORIGINS OF AMARONE +IV\QVI >ITXWTQKMTTI 6MOZIZ Q[ \PM QLMIT [\IZ\QVO XWQV\ NWZ I \W]Z WN \PM >ITXWTQKMTTI I _QVM \MZZQ\WZa ZQKP QV PQ[\WZQK K]T\]ZITTa [QOVQÅKIV\ XTIKM[ _Q\P IV MVKPIV\QVO TIVL[KIXM IVL W]\[\IVLQVO NWWL )UIZWVM \PM ZML _QVM \PI\ UILM >ITXWTQKMTTI NIUW][ IZW]VL \PM _WZTL _I[ KWVKMQ^ML QV \PQ[ KWWXMZI\Q^M _QVMZa¼[ JIZZMT KMTTIZ )[ _Q\P UIVa OZMI\ QV^MV\QWV[ )UIZWVM¼[ WZQOQV[ XIZ\Ta LMXMVL WV KPIVKM 1\[ JQZ\P LI\M[ JIKS \W ! IVL \PM KMTTIZ[ WN >QTTI 5W[KWVQ QV )ZJQbbIVW WV 6MOZIZ¼[ W]\[SQZ\[ \PM PMILY]IZ\MZ[ I\ \PM \QUM WN \PM +IV\QVI ;WKQITM >ITXWTQKMTTI <PM KMTTIZUI[\MZ )LMTQVW 4]KKPM[Q ZMITQbML \PI\ PM PIL TMN\ \W NMZUMV\ \WW TWVO I JIZZMT WN :MKQW\W I\ \PI\ \QUM >ITXWTQKMTTI¼[ UW[\ QUXWZ\IV\ _QVM <PM LQZMK\WZ /IM\IVW ,ITT¼7ZI ZMITQbML \PI\ QV PQ[ OTI[[ QV[\MIL WN I :MKQW\W \PI\ PIL OWVM JQ\\MZ PM PIL I OZMI\ _QVM _PQKP PM L]JJML )UIZWVM amaro Q[ \PM 1\ITQIV _WZL NWZ JQ\\MZ )\

\PM [IUM \QUM \PM KWWXMZI\Q^M ZMITQbML PW_ \PM _QVM[ WN \PM >ITXWTQKMTTI _MZM KPIVOQVO ITWVO _Q\P \PM \I[\M[ WN \PMQZ K][\WUMZ[ <PM IKKQLMV\IT XZWL]K\ _I[ JW\\TML Ja \PM +IV\QVI NWZ \PM ÅZ[\ \QUM QV ! ! _Q\P \PM TIJMT )UIZWVM -`\ZI LMTTI >ITXWTQKMTTI )N\MZ \PM M[\IJTQ[PUMV\ QV ! WN \PM >ITXWTQKMTTI ,7+ \PM TIJMT NWZ ITT XZWL]KMZ[ _I[ :MKQW\W )UIZWVM LMTTI >ITXWTQKMTTI IVL QV !! _Q\P \PM _WZTL_QLM []KKM[[ WN \PM _QVM \PM ZMO]TI\QWV[ _MZM UWLQÅML \W LQ[\QVO]Q[P Q\ LMÅVQ\Q^MTa NZWU :MKQW\W <PM ÅZ[\ aMIZ WN \PM ,7+/ )UIZWVM _I[ A GUIDED TOUR OF THE WINERY <WLIa I JW\\TM WN )UIZWVM -`\ZI LMTTI >ITXWTQKMTTI NZWU ! ! Q[ PMTL QV \PM _QVMZa KI^MI] WN PQ[\WZQK JW\\TM[ 1\ Q[ \PM PQOPTQOP\ WN \PM O]QLML ^Q[Q\ :M[MZ^M IPMIL \MT MUIQT" QVNW(KIV\QVIVMOZIZ Q\ <PM O]QLML \W]Z IT[W QVKT]LM[ I ^Q[Q\ \W \PM 5][MW LMTT¼)XXI[[QUMV\W _PQKP M`PQJQ\[ \PM 35 DECEMBER 2015

^IZQW][ UM\PWL[ LM^Q[ML QV >ITXWTQKMTTI \W LZa appassire \PM OZIXM[ ][ML QV \PM XZWL]K\QWV WN :MKQW\W IVL )UIrone. Among the systems, we see how OZIXM[ _MZM TIQL W]\ WV \PM ÆWWZ WZ \QML QV J]VKPM[ picai WV\W \PQV KWZL[ \PI\ P]VO NZWU \PM KMQTQVO JMIU[ WZ [XZMIL W]\ WV JIUJWW ZIKS[ I \aXM WN []XXWZ\ IT[W ][ML NWZ ZIQ[QVO [QTS _WZU[ WZ XTIKML WV ÆI\ _WWL WZ XTI[tic trays. In the same room, we can see UIVa [IUXTM[ WN QVLQOMVW][ OZIXM[ WN \PM >ITXWTQKMTTI \MZZQ\WZa [WUM WN \PMU ZIZM IVL ITUW[\ ]VSVW_V XZM^QW][Ta <PMa IZM M^QLMVKM WN \PM _WZS WN ZM[MIZKP IVL ZMLQ[KW^MZa WN IVKQMV\ ^IZQM\QM[ \PI\ PI[ JMMV KIZZQML W]\ Ja the Cantina. Among these, we par\QK]TIZTa VW\ML [XQOIUWV\Q I ^IZQM\a WN _QVM OZIXM ZMKWOVQbML QV Ja \PM >MVM\W :MOQWV I[ WVM WN \PM \aXM[ []Q\IJTM NWZ K]T\Q^I\QWV 1\ Q[ I ]VQY]M OZIXM _PQKP \]ZVML W]\ \W JM M`KMTTMV\ NWZ LZaQVO IVL NWZ )UIZWVM XZWL]K\QWV :MO]TI\QWV[ ITTW_ \PM ][M WN WN ^IZQM\QM[ KTI[[QÅML I[ QVLQOMVW][ 1\ _QTT OQ^M \PM +IV\QVI¼[ _QVM I ]VQY]M QVQUQ\IJTM KPIZIK\MZ )VW\PMZ NMI\]ZM WN \PM O]QLML \W]Z Q[ \PM QUXZM[[Q^M *W\\IQI L¼)]\WZM \PM JIZZMT KMTTIZ _PMZM [\IQVTM[[ [\MMT \IVS[ JIZZQY]M[ \WVVMI]` IVL IJW^M ITT TIZOM ;TI^WVQIV WIS JIZZMT[ IZM ][ML NWZ IOQVO ZML _QVM[ <PM QLMIT KWVKT][QWV WN \PM ^Q[Q\ Q[ \PM KPIZUQVO ,WUQVQ >MVM\Q \I[\QVO ZWWU <PM name is a homage to Venice, the city \PI\ I\ WVM \QUM Z]TML W^MZ >ITXWTQKMTTI 1\ Q[ \PM XMZNMK\ XTIKM \W \I[\M \PM _QVM[ \WOM\PMZ _Q\P K]ZML UMI\[ ITXQVM KPMM[M[ IVL \ZILQ\QWVIT [_MM\[

INTERVIEW

by Marco Sabellico

After growing up in the vineyards and wine cellars, then studying enology and business administration. Francesca Moretti was at her father Vittorio’s side at Terra Moretti, bringing along her vision of wine and the world

TERRA MORETTI 2.0 FRANCESCA MORETTI LOOKS TO THE FUTURE OF A GREAT WINERY 37 DECEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

“W

hen I was 14,” Francesca explains, “my father, my uncle, Mattia Vezzola and I went to Vinexpo in Bordeaux. It was a wonderful experience. I tasted the great and very greatest French wines. I met extraordinary people. I discovered my love for the earth and for wine. I also got drunk – I shouldn’t say it – but I understood once and for all what before I had only vaguely known. The land and winemaking is my passion.” When she finished high school, Francesca had no doubts. She studied agriculture at the University of Milano and completed a journey that in reality had begun many years before, in the mid 1970s, when her father Vittorio created Bellavista. For him, it was almost a hobby, and she played among the barrels in what would become one of the most important places in Italian winemaking. At the time, it was little more than a garage. Years of study followed, travels around the winemaking zones of the world, meetings with the major figures of international wine. She specialized in viticulture, did a master’s degree in business administration and human resources in Paris, and then faced her first personal challenge. At the end of the 1990s, Petra was founded in Suvereto, in Tuscany, and Francesca was in charge from day one. “Petra is a beautiful and ambitious project. The winery is a major architectural work, designed by a master, Mario Botta. Around it are 100 hectares of vineyard and a wonderful territory. Behind it all is an incredible job of in-depth research about the terroir and its potential, which began with zonation and the planting of the first vineyards. It’s still going on.” Today, Francesca is the CEO of the Vino group in the family holding, Terra Moretti, which is composed of 11 enterprises concentrated in three principal sectors: industrial construc-

MATTIA VEZZOLA, FRANCESCA AND VITTORIO MORETTI

tion, wineries, and luxury hotels. Francesca’s sister, Valentina, heads the construction sector, and Carmen is in charge of resorts and hospitality. Francesca is always in the vineyards and cellars. “Being the CEO of the group is hard work,” continues Francesca, “and a great challenge. Our father built up big companies, but we have to make them prosper. We don’t want to stop. We can’t rest on our laurels.” Francesca has clear ideas, indomitable energy and contagious enthusiasm. Her family and two small children, Alice, six and Lorenzo, four, demand presence, care, attention. “My vision of agriculture and wine was shaped in an extraordinary environment. I was truly fortunate. I grew up in a house surrounded by flower and vegetable gardens. A few meters away, Bellavista grew over the years. We have always eaten the vegetables we grew, and our meat – pork, beef, chicken and rab38 DECEMBER 2015

bit – was always raised at home. Then there’s olive oil, honey, fruit. Everything is organic or biodynamic. My father always had his roots in the earth, even if he worked in building and other sectors. I share with him my ideas of nature, of a healthy life in the country, something that is the basis of the entire group’s evolution.” And this is a new phase, her personal revolution. Francesca is unstoppable. She has clear ideas and knows where she wants to go. Her beloved Petra has over 40 hectares that have been farmed organically for more than three years, and soon they will be 100% converted. Technical responsibility is in the hands of renowned enologist Beppe Caviola. They have restyled labels and wines, designing a more accessible line that is still curated and oriented towards the organic world. “At Bellavista, we have always worked with low environmental impact, and most of our vineyards are certified organic or biodynamic, even though, preferring understatement, we haven’t put it on our label,” Francesca

says. “Soon all our production, both in Franciacorta and in Tuscany, will be completely certified. That is the future for quality wines.” Franciacorta is moving quickly in that direction. Francesca’s generation, the second after that of the founding fathers, could, within a few years, manage to convert the entire territory to organic agriculture. For this, and many other objectives, Francesca works, thinks, plans, meets people, writes. “Everything began at Bellavista. For us it’s an icon, a symbol of Franciacorta, a brand known throughout the world. It is so important that it risks putting our other wines in the shadow.” Francesca, like her father, believes deeply in the potential of this territory. She believes in Franciacorta but also in the territory’s other wines. One of her next steps will be to separate the labels of the still wines, such as the Uccellanda and Convento della SS. Annunciata Chardonnays, from the others, creating an entirely biodynamic winery with perhaps space for a Pinot Nero,

THE PETRA WINERY WAS DESIGNED BY ARCHITECT MARIO BOTTA

39 DECEMBER 2015

INTERVIEW

one that’s worthy of the other wines. Francesca is a volcano, one that’s always active. “It’s no accident that my favorite cult book is Oliver Sacks’ On the Move. I share many passions with him, including one for motors, especially motorcycles.” Contadi Castaldi is another wonderful Moretti family story. It, too, is a maison in Franciacorta, but different from Bellavista. Here too, a revolution occurred in recent years, with the release of Satèn, Zero Millesimato and a Zero Pinonero Millesimato which made an impression on the public and wine professionals. “Contadi Castaldi is a different idea of Franciacorta. It’s not Bellavista. It’s a younger style, and comes only partly from our own vineyards. The rest of the grapes are from a group of growers that we have worked with for years. Franciacorta Contadi Castaldi has a less complex style than our Grand Vins. It’s aimed at a younger crowd, and is a great Franciacorta for wine bars, to order by the glass.” A few kilometers from Castiglione della Pescaia, in the Maremma zone (Tuscany), are the 500 hectares of Tenuta La Badiola: a great golf course, a Medici villa transformed into an elegant resort with the complicity of Alain Ducasse, a farm, and 60 hectares of vineyard for making territory-based wines. “We’re in a natural park, in a beautiful zone. Once again, we have to embrace the terroir. We make territorial wines, but we’ve also launched an important enological project, the wines of Eremo di San Guglielmo, entirely biodynamic. We are working towards managing the whole winery and all production in a biodynamic way. We want consumers to associate our farms and our wines with images of natural harmony and environmental sustainability, as well as with high quality.” The people she is working with form a sort of dream team, with Mattia Vezzola, the unchallenged master of sparkling wines, doing an incredible job at Bellavista, now an internationally known brand.

TENUTA LA BADIOLA COVERS 500 HECTARES, 60 OF THEM VINEYARD

Gianluca Uccelli has made Contadi Castaldi a best seller in the denomination. Beppe Caviola oversees the Tuscan estates of Petra and La Badiola, and finally, a maestro of natural viticulture, Ruggero Mazzilli manages all the vineyards of the group. And, for January, 2016, another great innovation is planned. “It has always been my dream to have a network of sales outlets dedicated to our products, sensitive to the changes in a constantly evolving market, able to convey the story of our new wines, our dedication to the earth. Now we have Terra Moretti Distribuzione, presenting all our wines and those of a series of ‘friendly’ wineries, from Champagne to Tuscany to Alto Adige, along with high quality food specialties. We will distribute our wines and convey our image abroad too. An ambitious project? My father would say ‘Meraviglioso!’” 40 DECEMBER 2015

A new Franciacorta icon: Meraviglioso

R

iserva Vittorio Moretti is the Grand Cuvée that expresses the special vintages of a special winery, Bellavista. These bottles are from unique years that deserve the honor of the Millesimo, the vintage year label, and not only that – they merit the signature of Vittorio, Bellavista’s proprietor. They are cuvées that will defy time, embodying the characteristics of that vintage for long years, enriching the story with details and subtleties that a young wine, by its very nature, cannot express. 5MZI^QOTQW[W Q[ [WUM\PQVO LQNNMZMV\ QVÅVQ\MTa UWZM KWUplex and deep. It is the story of an entire lifetime. It embodies the history of Bellavista. Our adventure begins in 1984. Good Lord, can you believe it? More than thirty years ago. Where were you in September, 1984, when the end of summer days gave their last caresses to the chardonnay and pinot nero grapes of Franciacorta, while the rest of Italy’s wine _WZTL PIL ITZMILa KTI[[QÅML \PQ[ KWTL IVL ZIQVa aMIZ I[ one of the worst in the decade? And then came ’88, ’91, ¼! IVL ÅVITTa -IKP WVM PIL Q\[ XMK]TQIZ weather patches, each had the exceptional character

that convinced Mattia Vezzola and Vittorio Moretti to design, for them, a special destiny. And then – a stroke of genius. The sum of many special things – something even grander. The idea of Meraviglioso came to them, an extraordinary assemblage of vintages, of life and emotions: to distill from the passage of time the rarest and most precious elements, that confer on a wine elMOIVKM LMÅVQ\QWV LMX\P IVL KPIZIK\MZ INNMK\QVO MUWtions and memories as well. This is not just a grand wine, a great Franciacorta. It is something more. It is… Meraviglioso! The color is brilliant, a pale, sensual and rosy golden shade, with greenish highlights conferred by a youth not aM\ NWZOW\\MV <PM ÅVM[\ XMZTIOM [][\IQV[ IVL NZIUM[ Q\ creating a uniquely creamy texture. It took 372 months from grape harvest to disgorging to attain this. Over 90 seasons followed one another, winters, springs, sumUMZ[ NITT[ [PIXQVO \PQ[ ÅVIT M`XMZQMVKM" I VW[M _Q\P unequaled intensity, energy and dynamism. Impact at ÅZ[\ Q[ UWVWTQ\PQK [WTQL NZM[P IVL VMZ^W][ J]\ I\ \PM same time enthralling. Tones of candied citron and sap, _PQ\M ÆW_MZ[ 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL IZWUI\QK herbs slip, little by little, towards nuances of vanilla and pastry. Then, gradually, as the minutes pass, a more intimate and darker nature emerges, with notes of forest ÆWWZ OZMMV \MI \Z]NÆM[ IVL \PMV · _Q\P \QUM IVL \MUXMZI\]ZM · ÅVITTa PIbMTV]\ KWNNMM ÅVM _WWL IVL M`W\QK spices. )VL QV \PM UW]\P' <PM ÅZ[\ QUXIK\ Q[ I ÆI[P WN JTQVLQVO IUXTQ\]LM" \PM _QVM WXMV[ W]\ \W ÅTT ITT \PM [XIKM from throat to palate, building a structure that moves proudly towards the sky and then penetrates the depths of the earth. It is almost dizzying at the start, bewildering. Then, little by little, you begin to sense robust structure, sustained by a monumental acidic and mineral vein, and slowly, the details, minute and complex. It is a cathedral of ÆI^WZ _PMZM aW] IZM NZMM \W UW^M in every direction, from turret to foundation, from sturdy buttresses to storied apse, to the light from polychrome stained glass. What’s \PM XWQV\ WN TQ[\QVO IZWUI[ IVL ÆIvors? Here is everything you are caXIJTM WN [MMSQVO IVL ÅVLQVO M^MZathing you can manage to remember and evoke. A trip to time past, lost, but then marvelously found.

41 DECEMBER 2015

WWW.FERRARITRENTO.IT

di Antonio Paolini

THE ITALIAN ART OF LIVING

Venezia, Piazza San Marco ore 4:54

ZOOMING IN

by Lorenzo Ruggeri and William Pregentelli

ITALY’S EMERGING SPARKLING WINES Bubblies that mean business

43 DECEMBER 2015

photo by Trentodoc

ZOOMING IN

T

<PMV \PMZM¼[ .ZIVKQIKWZ\I _Q\P <ZM *QKKPQMZQ _QVVMZ[ QV \PM >QVQ L¼1\ITQI O]QLM <PM bWVM Q[ UW^QVO \W_IZL[ ^MZa TW_ WZ M^MV bMZW LW[IOM NWK][QVO UWZM IVL UWZM WV XQVW\ VMZW IVL ZM M`IUQVQVO \PM WZQOQVIT XPQTW[WXPa WN [I\vV ;ITM[ IJZWIL IZM Ã…VITTa JMOQVVQVO \W \ISM WNN OQ^QVO VM_ MV\P][QI[U \W XZWL]K\QWV <ZMV\W _Q\P <ZM *QKKPQMZQ _QVVMZ[ PI[ UIVa [UITT XZWL]KMZ[ IVL I NM_ KWTW[[IT WVM[ .MZZIZQ IJW^M ITT <PM bWVM Q[ VW\ _MTT SVW_V W]\[QLM 1\ITa Q\[MTN IT\PW]OP Q\[ _QVM[ IZM UWLMT[ WN KTMIV ÆI^WZ \MV[QWV IVL Ã…VM[[M <PM XI[[QWV NWZ UM\WLW KTI[[QKW Q[ MV\PZITTQVO XZWL]KMZ[ ITT W^MZ \PM KW]V\Za NZWU .ZQ]TQ \W -\VI <PM V]UJMZ WN ^IZQM\QM[ ][ML Q[ OZW_QVO [WUM\QUM[ _Q\P ]VPIXXa ZM[]T\[ J]\ W\PMZ \QUM[ _Q\P MVKW]ZIOQVO WVM[ 1\¼[ I [KMVM \W NWTTW_ KIZMN]TTa _Q\P XZWL]KMZ[ IVL bWVM[ JMOQVVQVO \W ]VLMZ[\IVL \PMQZ W_V [\ZWVO XWQV\[ ZMÃ…VQVO \PMQZ [\aTM[ IVL [XMKQITQbQVO UWZM WV K]^uM[ \PI\ ZMÆMK\ \PMQZ ^QVMaIZL[ IVL TM[[ WV JI[QK ZMKQXM[ · OZIXM JTMVL LW[IOM UWV\P[ WV TMM[ · QV WZLMZ \W ZMÆMK\ \PM XTIKM \PM QVLQ^QL]IT ^QVMaIZL ?PI\ NWTTW_[ PMZM Q[ I KTW[MZ TWWS I\ MUMZOQVO K]^uM[ NZWU \PM \PZMM JMVKPUIZS \MZZQ\WZQM[ _M¼^M ]VLMZTQVML IJW^M <Za \PM[M QV I JTQVL \I[\QVO XZMNMZIJTa ITWVO _Q\P aW]Z NI^WZQ\M[ NZWU W\PMZ KW]V\ZQM[ AW] UIa JM []ZXZQ[ML

he obsessing about comparisons to Champagne is Ã…VITTa W^MZ IVL 1\ITQIV UM\WLW KTI[[QKW TIJMT[ IZM MVRWaQVO I VM_ MZI WVM WN \ZIV[Q\QWV ;\QU]TI\ML Ja I OMVMZI\QWVIT [PQN\ I ZM[PIXQVO WN \PM QLMV\Q\a WN 1\ITQIV \MZZQ\WZQM[ Q[ ]VLMZ_Ia XIZ\QK]TIZTa \PW[M JM[\ []Q\ML NWZ \PM [TW_ JW\\TM NMZUMV\I\QWV WN UM\WLW KTI[[QKW _QVM[ 5IVa aW]VO XZWL]KMZ[ PI^M QUXZW^ML I^MZIOM Y]ITQ\a IVL \PM TIZOMZ _QVMZQM[ PI^M \ISMV VW\M ?M KPW[M \PZMM IZMI[ \W NWK][ WV ?M JMOQV _Q\P 7T\ZMX 8I^M[M _PQKP NWZ UIVa Q[ \PM []XZMUM bWVM NWZ UM\WLW KTI[[QKW IT\PW]OP NWZ W\PMZ[ Q\ Q[ \PM M\MZVIT /WLW\ _MQOPML LW_V Ja XW\MV\QIT \PI\ PI[ VM^MZ JMMV N]TTa M`XZM[[ML *]\ \PM ZM[]T\[ WN W]Z \I[\QVO[ IZM KTMIZ" UM\WLW KTI[[QKW <ZM *QKKPQMZQ TIJMT[ \PQ[ aMIZ I ZMKWZL ?Q\P PMK\IZM[ WN XQVW\ VMZW TQUM[\WVM [WQT[ IVL LZIUI\QK \MUXMZI\]ZM M`K]Z[QWV[ KWVLQ\QWV[ IZM QLMIT 1\¼[ VW IKKQLMV\ \PI\ TIZOM XZWL]KMZ[ NZWU W\PMZ bWVM[ PI^M IT_Ia[ KWUM PMZM \W Ã…VL OZIXM[ _Q\P TW_ XP TM^MT[ IVL ^QJZIV\ IKQLQ\a 6]UMZW][ XZWL]KMZ[ IZM Ã…OP\QVO IOIQV[\ \PM _WZS UM\PWL[ WN \PM MVWZUW][ KWWXMZI\Q^M[ QV \PM bWVM _Q\P ZM[]T\[ \PI\ PI^M JMMV LQNÃ…K]T\ \W IKPQM^M J]\ QUXZM[[Q^M

44 DECEMBER 2015

OP Pinot Nero Brut Cl. M.V. 2010 | Ca’ Tessitori BALLABIO’S VINEYARDS

OLTREPÒ PAVESE, YOUTH ON THE MOVE bottles produced: 2,000,000

Brut Farfalla | Ballabio

ex-cellar price: 10.00 euros bottles produced: 11,300 <PQ[ TWVO[\IVLQVO +I[\MOOQW _QVMZa NW]VLML Ja )VOMTW *ITTIJQW QV ! Q[ VW_ Z]V Ja .QTQXXW 6M^MTTQ _PW IQU[ \W ZM^Q^M Q\[ WTL OTWZa NWK][QVO QV XIZ\QK]TIZ WV [XIZSTMZ[ <PM M`KMX\QWVITTa _MTT MY]QXXML KMTTIZ ^I]V\[ UWLMZV [a[\MU[ _Q\P ^I\[ NWZ UQKZW^QVQÅKI\QWV IVL QUXZM[[Q^M [\WZIOM KIXIKQ\a <PM M`KMTTMV\ *Z]\ .IZNITTI PIL VW \ZW]JTM \ISQVO I <ZM *QKKPQMZQ \PQ[ aMIZ NWZ \PM KZMIUQVM[[ ^MZ^M IVL N]TTVM[[ LMZQ^ML NZWU TWVO IOQVO WV \PM TMM[ _PQKP LM\ZIK\[ VW\ QV \PM TMI[\ NZWU Q\[ JIKSJWVM ) KTI[[a ÅVQ[P KWUXTM\M[ \PM XQK\]ZM WN M`KMTTMVKM 1\[ [\aTM PIZS[ JIKS \W \PM WTL ^QV\IOM[ WN \PM M`KMTTMV\ <M[\IZW[[I NZWU 4I >MZ[I _PQKP [M\ \PM [\IVLIZL NWZ \PM LMVWUQVI\QWV <PM 7T\ZMX PI[ NW]VL I VM_ [\IZ XTIaMZ

ex-cellar price: 9.50 euros bottles produced: 4,000 1\ Q[ _WZ\P SMMXQVO I KIZMN]T MaM WV \PM _QVM[ WN \PM M[\I\M Z]V Ja 4]QOQ /QWZOQW _Q\P PQ[ [WV[ /QW^IVVQ IVL .ZIVKM[KW <PM PQTT[QLM ^QVMaIZL[ QV 5WV\MKIT^W >MZ[QOOQI IVL .QVQOM\W aQMTL KPIZIK\MZN]T _QVM[ \PI\ ZMÆMK\ JW\P \PM \MZZWQZ IVL \PM ^QV\IOM <PM *Z]\ 5 > \PM QVQ\QIT[ [\IVL NWZ 5WV\MKIT^W >MZ[QOOQI LQ[XTIa[ N]TTVM[[ IVL WX]TMVKM \PI\ LW VW\ LM\ZIK\ NZWU Q\[ NZM[PVM[[ 1\ Q[ IV QUXZM[[Q^M _QVM KWUUMVKQVO _Q\P Q\[ LMMX OWTLMV P]M WNNMZQVO \WX VW\M[ WN KISM[ NWTTW_ML Ja NZ]Q\ IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ OWWL JIKSJWVM IVL I TWVO ÅVQ[P WN KIVLQML XMMT QV I ]VQY]M IVL QV\ZQO]QVO [\aTM 1\ LQ[XTIa[ ITT \PM XW_MZ WN 8QVW\ 6MZW

Pinot Nero Brut 64 | Calatroni

ex-cellar price: 14.00 euros bottles produced: 5,000 ) JZMI\P WN NZM[P IQZ QV 7T\ZMX 8I^M[M <PM aW]VO +ZQ[\QIV IVL ;\MNIVW +ITI\ZWVQ IZM \PM NW]Z\P OMVMZI\QWV WN OZW_MZ[ [QVKM Q\[ NW]VLI\QWV QV ! 1VLMML \PM _QVM[ [PW_ QVKZMI[QVOTa UWZM XMZ[WVITQ\a I[ _MTT I[ [\MILQTa PQOPMZ Y]ITQ\a 6W\ []ZXZQ[QVOTa KWV[QLMZQVO \PM TWKI\QWV WN \PM ^QVMaIZL[ IVL \PM [WQT \PM OZIXM ^IZQM\QM[ \PI\ aQMTL \PM JM[\ ZM[]T\[ IZM ZQM[TQVO ZMVIVW IVL XQVW\ VMZW *Z]\ Q[ M`KMTTMV\ MIZVQVO I <ZM *QKKPQMZQ _Q\P Q\[ N]TTVM[[ KWUXTM`Q\a _MTT \aXML VW\M[ WN ZML NZ]Q\ IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ ÅVM JMIL IVL KZM[KMVLW ÅVQ[P 1\ _I[ WVM WN \PM UW[\ ZMUIZSIJTM []ZXZQ[M[ QV \PM /]QLM IVL Q\[ XZMKQ[M IVL ^QJZIV\ [\aTM PI[ ITZMILa JMKWUM I UWLMT

LUIGI GIORGI

OP Pinot Nero 2010 | Ca’ del Ge’

ex-cellar price: 8.80 euros bottles produced: 10,000 ;\MNIVQI ;IZI IVL +IZTW 8ILZWOOQ Z]V \PM NIUQTa M[\I\M NWTTW_QVO QV \PM NWW\[\MX[ WN \PMQZ TI\M NI\PMZ -VbW 1\ JWI[\[ PMK\IZM[ WN M`KMTTMV\Ta XW[Q\QWVML ^QVMaIZL[ WV \PM PQTT[ WN 5WV\IT\W 8I^M[M LWUQVI\ML Ja KPITSa [WQT[ QLMIT NWZ OZW_QVO ZQM[TQVO IVL XQVW\ VMZW 4QSM UIVa NIUQTa Z]V 7T\ZMX M[\I\M[ Q\[ _QLM ZIVOM WNNMZ[ M`KMTTMV\ ^IT]M NWZ UWVMa IVL QVKT]LM[ [WUM ZMIT OMU[ 7VM WN \PM[M Q[ \PM ZQKP ZQXM *Z]\ _PQKP WNNMZ[ I JMI]\QN]T OWTLMV P]M _Q\P I VW[M WN ZML JMZZQM[ IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ IVL I KZMIUa XITI\M \PI\ Q[ N]TT aM\ \I]\ IVL MLOa [PW_QVO M`MUXTIZa XZWOZM[[QWV IVL KTMIVTQVM[[ WV \PM ÅVQ[P ?M LMNa aW] \W ÅVL I JM\\MZ UM\WLW KTI[[QKW I\ \PQ[ XZQKM" M]ZW[ I\ \PM _QVMZa

STEFANO AND CRISTIAN CALATRONI

STEFANIA, SARA AND CARLO PADROGGI

ZOOMING IN

NEW FACES OF FRANCIACORTA bottles produced: 15,400,000

Franciacorta Brut Doppio Erre Di | Derbusco Cives

ex-cellar price: 17.00 euros bottles produced: 35,000 ) OZW]X WN ยนKQ\QbMV[ WN -ZJ][KWยบ QV LMKQLML \W NW]VL I VM_ M[\I\M <WLIa WV \PM UWZIQVM PQTT[ WN \PM U]VQKQXITQ\a Q\ KIV LZI_ WV PMK\IZM[ WN ^QVMaIZL 7^MZ TQ\\TM UWZM \PIV \MV aMIZ[ \PM TIJMT[ PI^M [PW_V KWV[\IV\ OZW_\P QV Y]ITQ\a IVL \PM _QVMZa LM^MTWXML IV MV^QIJTM ZMX]\I\QWV WV \PM .ZIVKQIKWZ\I [KMVM <PM ร IOJMIZMZ WN \PM XWZ\NWTQW Q[ \PM UWVW^IZQM\IT KPIZLWVVIa ,WXXQW -ZZM ,Q 1\ PI[ I NZM[P JW]Y]M\ WN KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL I KZMIUa LMV[M XITI\M _Q\P \WVM[ WN QWLQVM IVL TQKWZQKM IN\MZ I TWVO [\Ia WV Q\[ TMM[ IVL LQ[OWZOQVO [PWZ\Ta JMNWZM ZMTMI[M WV \PM UIZSM\ :Mร VML UWZM WV Q\[ [WN\MZ I[XMK\[ \PIV Q\[ PIZL WVM[

MOUNTAIN BUBBLIES bottles produced: 8,500,000

ANDREA ARCI

Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero 2009 | Colline della Stella

ex-cellar price: 19.60 euros bottles produced: 2,000 ?Q\PW]\ LW]J\ WVM WN \PM UW[\ QV\MZM[\QVO MUMZOQVO XZWL]KMZ[ WN 1\ITQIV [X]UIV\M )VLZMI )ZQKQ IVL /QW^IVVQ )ZKIZQ XZWL]KM I K]ZI\ML ZIVOM WN .ZIVKQIKWZ\I NZWU \PMQZ W_V ^QVMaIZL[ _Q\PW]\ \PM ][M WN IVa TQY]M]Z Lยผu`XMLQ\QWV QV WZLMZ \W XZM[MZ^M \PM QV\MOZQ\a WN \PM P]M[ WN MIKP \MZZWQZ <PQ[ Q[ /][[IOOW QV \PM M`\ZMUM MI[\ WN \PM .ZIVKQIKWZ\I \MZZQ\WZa _Q\P \MZZIKML ^QVMaIZL[ I\ IT\Q\]LM[ ZIVOQVO NZWU \W UM\MZ[ <PMQZ ,W[IOOQW BMZW ! KPIZLWVVIa XQVW\ VMZW Q[ LMTQKQW][ IVL QZZM[Q[\QJTM XZMKQ[M [I^WZa [I\Q[NaQVO 1\ WNNMZ[ [ML]K\Q^M _MTT UWL]TI\ML NZ]Q\a NZIOZIVKM[ IVL IV MVMZOM\QK IVL ^MZa KWV\QV]W][ ร VQ[P :MOMVMZI\QVO AW] KIV IT[W NWTTW_ )VLZMI WV PQ[ JTWO <MZZI =WUW +QMTW" \MZZI]WUWKQMTW VM\

JESSICA AND GIUSEPPE VEZZOLI, DARIO ARDEL

Trento Brut Dosaggio Zero Opera Ris. 2008 | Opera

ex-cellar price: 26.50 euros bottles produced: 2,000 ?PMV IN\MZ \PM \I[\QVO WN \PM <ZMV\W,WK JW\\TM[ _M ]VKW^MZML \PM TIJMT[ WN \PM _QVM[ _M _MZM PIXXa \W ร VL _M PIL OQ^MV []KP PQOP UIZS[ \W ,W[IOOQW BMZW ยป NZWU \PQ[ [UITT MUMZOQVO _QVMZa 7V Q\[ ร Z[\ MV\Za QV\W \PM /]QLM QV Q\ _I[ R][\ I PIQZ NZWU \PM \WX ZIVSQVO _PQKP Q\ _WV MI[QTa QV \PIVS[ \W NI[KQVI\QVO IZWUI\QK JIKSJWVM [\Z]K\]ZM LMZQ^ML NZWU XWZXPaZa \MZZIQV IKQLQK ^Q\ITQ\a *M\_MMV 4I >Q[ IVL \PM >ITTM LQ .QMUUM )Tร W /IZbM\\Q KWV[]T\QVO _Q\P MVWTWOQ[\ 8IWTW <QMNMV\PITMZ ZMTMI[M[ [WUM \MV[ WN \PW][IVL[ WN JW\\TM[ MIKP aMIZ ITT [X]UIV\M -^MZa aMIZ \PMaยผZM JM\\MZ IVL Q\ยผ[ VW\M_WZ\Pa \PI\ XZQKM[ IZM IT_Ia[ NIQZ ALFIO GARZETTI

THE SPARKLING PENINSULA The desire to create and experiment is in our DNA (‘crazy’ and ‘funny’ are the most commonly used words to describe our producers abroad). If we leave the north, moving towards latitudes less common for spumanti, we come to Civitella d’Agliano in the Lazio province of Viterbo, on the hills that shape the upper reaches of the Tiber river. Here we find Sergio Mottura and his Brut ’09, a blanc de blancs of chardonnay grapes that, after 4 years on its lees, reveals itself to be full and enticing, flavorful and vibrant. In blind tastings, this cuvée surprised many. But the tendency to utilize indigenous grapes to make spumante is constantly growing. Vallerosa Bonci, an historic Marche winery of Cupramontana (Ancona), a land known primarily for Verdicchio, decided to treat this variety as a spumante. The result is a Brut that in the ’10 version shows great elegance and typicity, full of almond, pear, ginger and white flower aromas. Bubbles are caressing and dosage well-calibrated. Still in the center of the country, in Umbria, we want to mention the spumante made by Stefano Grilli in La Palazzola (Vascigliano, Terni). He has dedicated himself to this process for many years. The 2011 vintage year gave us a great version of his Riesling Brut Metodo Ancestrale. Moving a little more towards the south, we enjoyed many surprises. In the Cilento, a young, emerging winery, Casebianche, produces a spumante based on fiano grapes at dosage zero. La Matta is fragrant, delicious, and very dangerous. The islands are producing their own great metodo classico versions. Here we’ll mention only Cantine Murgo. Already in 1990, they produced a Brut from nerello mascalese grapes, and over the years, amplified their offerings with an Extra Brut from the same vineyard, with elegant texture and Etna-influenced character.

THE MALFER FAMILY

Trento Extra Brut Paladino 2010 | Revì

ex-cellar price: 29.20 euros bottles produced: 3,000 AW]VO /QIKWUW 5ITNMZ PI[ \ISMV WV I SMa ZWTM QV \PM UIVIOMUMV\ WN \PQ[ [UITT _MTT KIZML NWZ UIQ[WV 1\ PI[ Q\[ JI[M QV )TLMVW IVL XZWL]KM[ Q\[ K]^uM[ _Q\P OZIXM[ NZWU Q\[ W_V ^QVMaIZL[ .W]Z TIJMT[" I *Z]\ WN KPIZLWVVIa IVL XQVW\ VMZW# \PM [IUM JTMVL NWZ \PM ,W[IOOQW BMZW IVL \PM :W[u <PMV \PMZM¼[ \PM 8ITILQVW \PM _QVMZa¼[ ÆIOJMIZMZ _Q\P WVTa I NM_ \PW][IVL JW\\TM[ UILM 5WVW^IZQM\IT WZOIVQK KPIZLWVVIa Q\ PI[ IV ITXQVM KPIZIK\MZ I U]T\Q NIKM\ML VW[M WN _PQ\M ÆM[PML NZ]Q\ IJW^M ITT IXXTM \PI\ \ZIV[XWZ\[ ][ \W \PM ZWKSa VMIZJa UW]V\IQV[ <PM UW]\P Q[ [QTSa KWUXIK\ QV\MV[M IVL I[[MZ\Q^M _Q\P \PM KPIZIK\MZ WN I KPIUXQWV 1\ N]TTa LM[MZ^M[ \W JM WV W]Z [PWZ\ TQ[\ .WTTW_ Q\

Trento Brut Nature Riserva 2010 | Bellaveder

ex-cellar price: 13.90 euros bottles produced: 4,000 <ZIVY]QTTW 4]KKPM\\I LQL VW\ KPWW[M I VIUM NWZ PQ[ _QVMZa I\ ZIVLWU <PM ^QM_ NZWU \PM \MZZIKM[ WN PQ[ ^QVMaIZL[ WXMV[ WV\W I ZWUIV\QK TIVL[KIXM IV QV\IK\ IVL ]VKWV\IUQVI\ML MV^QZWVUMV\ <PM _QVMZa NIKQTQ\QM[ IZM J]QT\ ]VLMZOZW]VL L]O W]\ JMVMI\P \PM ZW_[ WN ^QVM[ 1V \PM ÅMTL[ IVL QV \PM KMTTIZ[ \PM _WZS NWTTW_[ WZOIVQK XZMKMX\[ _Q\P KWV[\IV\ I\\MV\QWV \W MV^QZWVUMV\IT [][\IQVIJQTQ\a 1V PQ[ XWZ\NWTQW _PQKP QVKT]LM[ W\PMZ KTI[[QK <ZMV\QVW M`XZM[[QWV[ _M VW\ML IV M`KMTTMV\ 4IOZMQV 5IV[]U » Q[ *Z]\ 6I\]ZM :Q[MZ^I » I [X]UIV\M \PI\ ZMIKPML W]Z ÅVIT \I[\QVO[ MI[QTa IVL WVTa UQ[[ML \PM \WX ZI\QVO Ja I PIQZ 1\ Q[ I XZWUQ[QVO MTMOIV\ [X]UIV\M NZIOZIV\ _Q\P M`W\QK NZ]Q\ \WVM[ WN ^IVQTTI IVL UW]V\IQV PMZJ[ NZM[P IVL MI[a \W LZQVS

WINEMAKER LUCA GASPERINATTI - TRANQUILLO LUCHETTA

47 DECEMBER 2015

ZOOMING IN THE STELZER FAMILY

Trento Madame Martis Riserva 2005 - Maso Martis

photo by Trentodoc

ex-cellar price: 49.90 bottles produced: 1,000 <PM ^QVMaIZL[ WN :WJMZ\I IVL )V\WVQW ;\MTbMZ OZW_ WV \PM []V SQ[[ML [TWXM[ WN +ITQ[QW 8ZWL]K\QWV Q[ IJW]\ JW\\TM[ IVV]ITTa WN _PQKP IZM LMLQKI\ML \W UM\WLW KTI[[QKW _QVM[ 7VTa WN \PM[M IZM 5ILIUM 5IZ\Q[ _PQKP QV \PM ^MZ[QWV [PW_[ Q\ PI[ \PM [\]NN WN I KPIUXQWV 1\ Q[ I K]^uM WN UW[\Ta XQVW\ VMZW _Q\P KPIZLWVVIa IVL I [UITT IUW]V\ WN XQVW\ UM]VQMZ \W O]IZIV\MM UWZM [WN\VM[[ <PM JW]Y]M\ Q[ KWUXTM` U]T\Q NIKM\ML QV _PQKP PWVMa \WVM[ NWTTW_ IKMZJQK ZML JMZZa VW\M[ <PM UW]\P Q[ []UX\]W][ J]\ VW\ UW\QWVTM[[ \PIVS[ \W KITQJZI\ML [IXQLQ\a IVL IKQLQ\a \PI\ TMIL QV\W I LZa IVL XTMI[IV\Ta [UWSa ÅVQ[P ) KWUXTM\M <ZMV\W WN VW\IJTa [WTQL KPIZIK\MZ

48 DECEMBER 2015

The advanced logistic solution for Wines & Spirits Wine & Spirits Logistic Macrosystem Solution is a logistics package designed specifically for the beverages industry. Giorgio Gori has achieved truly superlative standards in this sector in terms of expertise, partnerships, resources, organization and technology. Secure, modular transport systems, contracts with the most dependable carriers, excellent transport rates and optimum storage conditions will smooth the way for your products, from the bottling line to the consumerÔs table. Easily accessible web-enabled options combined with effective monitoring and forecasting instruments can provide real time information on the entire logistics process.

WE

MOVE

PRECIOUS

COMMODITIES:

YOURS.

w w w.ggor i.com

TRAVEL

SPECIAL

UMBRIA

Woods and panoramic nature from Assisi to Norcia – medieval villages, monasteries and convents on the path of Saint Francis – passionate food artisans, a young chef, and affordable quality wine 51 DECEMBER 2015

TRAVEL

text and photography by Massimiliano Rella

MYSTIC

Among olives and vineyards

52 DECEMBER 2015

Around Assisi, towards Todi and into the bordering zones of Montefalco and Sagrantino, a journey along the wine roads of the Canticle. Excellent extra-virgin olive oils, wineries to visit, cured meats and cheeses to sample. And splendid hill towns, following in Saint Francis’ footsteps

UMBRIA

on the Strade del Cantico

53 DECEMBER 2015

TRAVEL

“L

ook at the view, all of Umbria is at your feet!” Seven hundred meters up, on Mount Subasio, at sunset, seated outdoors in front of a plate of tender grilled meat, Alessandro Damiani’s words seemed ITUW[\ []XMZÆ]W][ ?M NMT\ \PM OTWZa of a few, but intense minutes over the valley of the Tiber as Assisi, in the distance, began to brighten, becoming a blur of yellow lights in an inLQOW JT]M [Sa <PM aW]VO XZWL]KMZ WN IV M`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT *QW WN ÆW]Z and cured meats, but also a grower of lambs and other small farm animals, led us proudly to the most beautiful [XW\ WV PQ[ IOZQ\]ZQ[UW 4M 5IVLZQM di San Paolo is set among hectares WN UWZIQWTW WTQ^M \ZMM[ ¹1V []UUMZ \PQ[ XTIKM JMKWUM[ UIOQKIT ?M LW M^erything we can to make our visitors happy: trips, tastings, candlelight dinVMZ[ º ,IUQIVQ M`XTIQVML +WVVMK\ML to several hiking paths, like that of Sait

Francis and the Parco del Monte Subasio, the 35-hectare estate is a perfect JI[M NWZ \PW[M _PW TQSM _ITSQVO 1V one hour, you can reach the hermitIOM -ZMUW LMTTM +IZKMZQ IVL QV \_W the Forest of Saint Francis, a property JMTWVOQVO \W \PM VWV XZWÅ\ .WVLW )UJQMV\M 1\ITQIVW VMIZ [XMK\IK]TIZ waterfalls with a natural swimming XWWT 1V []UUMZ JM []ZM \W JZQVO your bathing suit!) Alessandro’s life moves between the olive mills, animals, guest rooms IVL ZM[\I]ZIV\ PMTXML Ja PQ[ NIUQTa Among his responsibilities, produc\QWV WN PQ[ M`\ZI ^QZOQV WTQ^M WQT +WTTQ d’Assisi Spoleto DOP takes up most WN PQ[ \QUM ) UMLQ]U QV\MV[M NZ]Q\a WQT Q\ Q[ NZIOZIV\ IVL XTMI[IV\ >Q[Q\WZ[ can taste it in a room with a view of \PM [XW\TM[[ XZM[[QVO UIKPQVMZa The Umbria on this itinerary along \PM ;\ZILI LMQ >QVQ LMT +IV\QKW WZ \PM +IV\QKTM ?QVM :W]\M M^QLMV\Ta named as a homage to Saint Francis’

songs, is a journey through hills and panoramic views, sometimes to very Q[WTI\ML XTIKM[ _PMZM NM_ XI[[ Ja 1V +WTTMT]VOW WV \PM [TWXM[ WN 5WV\M Peglia, in the cobblestone alleyways WN \PM ^QTTIOM [QTMVKM ZMQOV[ <PM QVhabitants are mostly old people, and on mild days they meet at the tables WN \PM WVTa KINu *M[QLM[ \PM NZM[KWM[ WN \PM 5ILWVVI LMTTI 4]KM \PM W\PMZ I\\ZIK\QWV I\ +WTTMT]VOW Q[ \PM ]VLMZOZW]VL KMTTIZ WN +WV\Q .IQVI _QVMZa >IT\MZ \PM KMTTIZ UI[\MZ _ITSML ][ through three long tunnels and a system of underground passageways beNWZM _M \I[\ML \PM _QVM <PM _MI\PMZ was still hot, so among the six different wines we particularly enjoyed Macchia della Torre, a white from verdicKPQW IVL KPIZLWVVIa OZIXM[ 1\ Q[ LZa and savory, with aromas of tropical NZ]Q\ )VW\PMZ NI^WZQ\M _I[ \PM ;MVI\WZM BMNÅZQVW [X]UIV\M JZ]\ WN XQVW\ nero and chardonnay: notes of dried IVL NZM[P NZ]Q\ IVL PQV\[ WN KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ GEESE ON THE LE MANDRIE FARM, NEAR ASSISI OPENING PAGE, A VIEW OF ASSISI

WHAT TO SEE FROM SPELLO TO TODI, TO SEE PINTURICCHIO AND MASOLINO We leave from Spello. A medieval town on the slopes of Mount Subasio, it also has a Roman villa with mosaics. In the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. in the Cappella Baglioni. are 16th century frescoes by Bernardino di Betto, known as Pinturicchio (ENGLISH.TURISMO.COMUNE.SPELLO.PG.IT). In the Palazzo Comunale, the library, Biblioteca Fondo Antico, holds 4,000 antique works of theology, the most precious an incunabola from 1474 (tickets are 12 euros | WWW.SISTEMAMUSEO.IT). One of Assisi’s great attractions, among hills covered with olive trees, is the Forest WN ;IV .ZIVKM[KW W_VML Ja \PM VWV XZWÅ\ environmental group, Fondo Ambiente Italiano. Walking along a brook, you come to a meadow with waterfalls and a natural swimming pool. You can reach it also through a gate in the wall surrounding Piazza San Francesco (WWW.FONDOAMBIENTE.IT | WWW.VISITFAI.IT). The Parco delle Sculture di Brufa brings together contemporary art works and installations, chosen from those exhibited in the annual “Brufa in Festa” event. Nearby, in Torgiano, the Museo d’Arte Ceramica Contemporanea holds a collection of the work of ceramicist Nino Caruso along with artistic vessels or pitchers made by Italian and international artists for the annual vino novello celebration and then donated to the museum. Outside the town, in the Parco dei Mulini, run the Tiber and Chiascio rivers and the ruins of medieval mills, such as the Mulino di Mezzo and the Mulino Silvestri (WWW.COMUNE.TORGIANO.PG.IT). In Montecastello di Vibio, the Teatro della Concordia, built in 1808, has 99 seats, with only 37 in the orchestra, one of the country’s smallest theaters. Decorated with stucco designs and frescoes, it reproduces in miniature the great theaters of the era, with all the typical classic elements (WWW.TEATROPICCOLO.IT). )VL ÅVITTa QV <WLQ Q[ \PM <MUXQW LQ ;IV Fortunato, an interesting example of Gothic construction. Its San Michele Arcangelo chapel holds the frescoed “Virgin and Child”, a work of Masolino da Panicale from 1432. The Museo Civico has sculpture and frescoes in the Palazzo del Podestà and Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo (WWW.SISTEMAMUSEO.IT). MONTE CASTELLO DI VIBIO, NEAR PERUGIA. THE TINY TEATRO DELLA CONCORDIA

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1V VMIZJa 5IZ[KQIVW _M IT[W ^Q[Q\ML \PM 4I ;XQVI _QVMZa \PM XZQLM IVL passion of Moreno Peccia, a simpatico banker of 56 who divides his time JM\_MMV \PM WNĂ…KM IVL PQ[ ^QVMaIZL[ From a little over two hectares, he ob\IQV[ Ă…N\MMV [Q`\MMV \PW][IVL JW\\TM[ []KP I[ PQ[ >QOVI 5IQWZM I UWVW^IZQetal trebbiano Spoletino that depends on spontaneous fermentation without ILLML aMI[\[ 1\ _WV ,]M *QKKPQMZQ QV W]Z O]QLM >QVQ LÂź1\ITQI :W[[W Spina, also a Due Bicchieri wine, has a 5WV\MX]TKQIVW JI[M š1Âź^M _WZSML QV the bank for 35 years,â€? Peccia told us, šJ]\ 1 PI^M IT_Ia[ TW^ML UISQVO _QVM 1 IKPQM^ML Ua LZMIU QV NW]VLQVO Ua W_V _QVMZa M^MV QN Q\Âź[ [UITT 1 like to share my passion with visitors, _QVM \W]ZQ[\[ 1\ MVZQKPM[ Ua TQNM IVL offers an opportunity for exchanging QLMI[ Âş By now it was late and for dinner we LZW^M \W 5WV\MKI[\MTTW LQ >QJQW WNĂ…KQITTa WVM WN 1\ITaÂź[ UW[\ JMI]\QN]T \W_V[" UM\MZ[ IJW^M [MI TM^MT QVPIJQ\IV\[ IJW]\ WN _PWU TQ^M _Q\PQV Q\[ IVKQMV\ _ITT[ This medieval jewel has one of the country’s smallest theaters, the Teatro LMTTI +WVKWZLQI" !! [MI\[ SMX\ ITQ^M Ja I NM_ ^WT]V\MMZ[ ]V\QT 1\ITa I_ISMV[ \W \PM XZM[MZ^I\QWV WN Q\[ ^I[\ PMZQ\IOM Our walk in the village ended with an aperitif in the only cafĂŠ, on Piazza >Q\\WZQW -UIV]MTM _Q\P I NIV\I[\QK view of Todi, the Tiber valley and \PM 5IZ\IVQ UW]V\IQV[ ?M UILM our way to the Grottino di Zio Totò, _PQKP KPMN 5I[[QUW +W[\IVbQ UIVages with traditional good taste, suggesting linguine with cherry tomatoes, wild fennel and herbs, roast rabbit and OIUM []KP I[ [Y]IJ The next day the trip continued with a visit to Todi, the home town of the th KMV\]Za XWM\ 2IKWXWVM LI <WLQ )N\MZ I \W]Z WN \PM +I\PMLZIT IVL \PM museum, we enjoyed another memorable view, this time over the historic center of town from the bell tower of the Tempio di San Fortunato, which

UNDERGROUND TUNNEL IN CANTINA CONTI FAINA IN COLLELUNGO VINEYARDS OF CANTINA PEPPUCCI, IN MONTORSOLO, TODI. IN THE BACKGROUND, THE EX-BENEDICTINE MONASTERY OF SANT’ANTIMO, TODAY A RESORT AND THE FAMILY RESIDENCE

VISITING THE WINERIES NEAR SAGRANTINO Two wine routes, the Strade del Vino Cantico and Sagrantino, come close together in this zone. We start with the Strada del Cantico, which we mentioned above, and the winery of Conti Faina (visit and tasting 15 euros | reservations necessary | WWW.CONTIFAINA.IT), La Spina (tasting free | 5 euros with guide and pairing with local products | Mon-Sat; Sunday with reservations | WWW.CANTINALASPINA.IT). Peppucci (visits by appointment, Mon-Sun | wine tasting with cured meats and pizza: 15 euros | WWW.CANTINAPEPPUCCI.COM). Next is the winery Valle d’Assisi (restaurant, hotel and wellness center |tastings from 6 euros | formulas with lunch and dinner | WWW.VALLEDIASSISI.COM), and Lungarotti (resort Le Tre Vaselle | wine therapy BellaUve | Musei del Vino e dell’Olio | WWW.LUNGAROTTI.IT). Now we move to the Strada del Sagrantino. In Montefalco we can taste Sagrantino Chiusa di Pannone and other labels, white and red, from Antonelli San Marco, a winery with an agriturismo, swimming pool and cooking school for Umbrian dishes (WWW.ANTONELLISANMARCO.IT). At Caprai, the Enoteca is the space for tasting and buying wine, among which is Montefalco Sagrantino Docg 25 anni, a barrique veteran. (MonSun guided visits and tasting: 10 euros | with cheeses and Umbrian cured meats 15 euros | WWW.ARNALDOCAPRAI.IT). Scacciadiavoli was founded in the 19th century (Mon-Fri; Sat with reservations | WWW.SCACCIADIAVOLI.IT). In Bevagna, at the Adanti sisters’ winery, you can sample a good selection of Montefalco DOCs and Montefalco Sagrantino DOCGs (tastings MonSat with reservations | WWW.CANTINEADANTI.COM). Visit the extraordinary Carapace, designed by Arnaldo Pomodoro for the Tenuta Castelbuono, belonging to the Lunelli group (visits Mon-Sun | reservations necessary | WWW.TENUTELUNELLI.IT).

57 DECEMBER 2015

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_M KTQUJML ]X [\IQZ[ \W ZMIKP A pleasant drive in the country took ][ \W 8MXX]KKQ _QVMZa UQV]\M[ from Todi, set among beautiful hills, woods and vineyards at an altitude WN UM\MZ[ IJW^M [MI TM^MT 1\ _I[ NW]VLML QV IVL \PM 8MXX]KKQ family began to harvest their grapes QV .QTQXXW -TQ[IJM\\I IVL Agnese represent a new generation of producers – they are barely thirty aMIZ[ WTL )UWVO \PM bottles they produce with the ad^QKM WN MVWTWOQ[\ 4WZMVbW 4IVLQ _M ÅVL TIJMT[ []KP I[ I _PQ\M UWVW^Irietal Grechetto di Todi, fresh and IZWUI\QK WZ )T\MZ 1W I ZML NZWU sagrantino grapes harvested on the ÅZ[\ LIa[ WN 7K\WJMZ IVL IOML QV .ZMVKP WIS NWZ UWV\P[ IVL \PMV NWZ QV \PM JW\\TM ,]M *QKKPQMZQ ZW[[Q QV >QVQ LŸ1\ITQI The rest of the trip was a drive towards Torgiano, with a stop in Spello to visit the biodynamic vegetable garden of the Fondazione

*IZJIVMZI <PM VIUM KWUM[ NZWU a famous book, Almanacco Barbanera, dedicated to the astronomer, astrologer and philosopher who TQ^ML QV VMIZJa .WTQOVW QV \PM th KMV\]Za <PM NW]VLI\QWV IT[W PI[ a small exhibit of old editions and QV\MZM[\QVO JWWS KW^MZ[ 1V <WZOQIVW W]Z \ZQX MVLML I\ \PM 4]VOIZW\\Q _QVMZa WVM WN \PM JM[\ SVW_V XZWL]KMZ[ QV =UJZQI <PMQZ two museums have exhibits related \W _QVM IVL \W WTQ^M[ IVL WTQ^M \ZMM[ On the slopes of the town, we took I _ITS ITWVO \PM +PQI[KW ZQ^MZ QV \PM OZMMV 8IZKW LMQ 5]TQVQ UQTT[ named for the ruins of old industriIT [\Z]K\]ZM[ 7VM 5]TQVW ;QT^M[\ZQ [\QTT XZWL]KM[ ÆW]Z .Q^M SQTWUM\MZ[ UWZM IVL \PM ;\ZILI LMQ >QVQ LMT +IV\QKW JZW]OP\ ][ WVM UWZM IZ\ scene: the village of Brufa is an example of land art, works and installations in the open air, chosen each year on the occasion of Brufa in .M[\I I aMIZ WTL M^MV\

BOTANY THE VEGETABLE AND FLOWER GARDEN OF BARBANERA Practical farming advice and weather predictions for the months and seasons of each coming year have appeared in the Almanacco Barbanera since 1762. They come to life in the beautiful biodynamic vegetable garden curated by the foundation of the same name in Spello. Designed by landscape architect Peter Curzon, the garden grows medicinal herbs and ÆW_MZ[ ^MOM\IJTM[ IVL NZ]Q\ ¡ QVKT]LQVO ZIZM \aXM[ ¡ QV IV M` IOZQK]T\]ZIT complex that includes silkworks from the 18th century. In the publisher’s historic archives are 50,000 documents, among which are 8,000 almanacs from around the world, as well as paintings and sculptures, often representing the signs of the zodiac, from artists who have designed the various covers over the years. There’s also a small museum. via San Giuseppe 1 | Spello (Pg) | tel. 0742.391177 | WWW.BARBANERA.IT

THE GARDEN OF THE BARBANERA FOUNDATION IN SPELLO

59 DECEMBER 2015

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LA CANTINA DI SPELLO, IN SPELLO (PERUGIA)

ADDRESSES WHERE TO EAT IL GROTTINO DI ZIO TOTÒ | VIA DON OSCAR MARRI, 2 | MONTE CASTELLO DI VIBIO (TR) | TEL. 075 8780652 AND 328 9599864 | WWW.UMBRIACUCINA.COM | AVERAGE PRICE 30 EURO Local and seasonal dishes prepared by chef Massimo Costanzi. Cooking lessons available. Reservations recommended. LA CANTINA | VIA CAVOUR 2 | SPELLO (PG) | TEL 0742.651775 | WWW.LACANTINADISPELLO.COM | AVERAGE PRICE 35 EURO In the medieval center, traditional specialties and local inOZMLQMV\[ []KP I[ \Z]NÆM[ IVL ZML XW\I\WM[ NZWU +WTÅWZQ\W

LE MANDRIE DI SAN PAOLO | VIA CANNELLA 16 | LOC. SAN VITALE | ASSISI (PG) | TEL. 075 8064070 E 349 8217867 | WWW.AGRITURISMO MANDRIESANPAOLO.IT E WWW.MANDRIESANPAOLO.COM | AVERAGE PRICE 25 EURO Home-made pasta, kilometer zero grilled meat, house-made cured meats. TABERNA DI SAN SILVESTRO | FRAZ. COLLEPINO | SPELLO (PG) | TEL. 0742 651203 AND 339 6719196 | AVERAGE PRICE 35 EURO Traditional Umbrian dishes, bruschetta, house-made pasta _Q\P \Z]NÆM[ OZQTTML UMI\ IVL vegetables. ALLA VIA DI MEZZO | VIA SANTA CHIARA DA MONTEFALCO, 52 | MONTEFALCO (PG) | TEL. 0742 362074 | AVERAGE PRICE 25 EURO |

WWW.RISTORANTEALLAVIADIMEZZO.IT

A star of Gambero Rosso channel, Giorgione prepares home-made pasta, meat and delicious desserts.

WHERE TO STAY LE 3 VASELLE | VIA G. GARIBALDI, 48 | TORGIANO (PG) | TEL. 075 9880447 | WWW.3VASELLE.IT | DOUBLE ROOM FROM 220 EUROS, BREAKFAST INCLUDED

In a palazzo from the 17th century, the hotel is ideal for a relaxing stay. Excellent cuisine, shop with local food specialties, wellness center. AGRITURISMO MIRALDUOLO | LOC. FERRIERA, 58 | TORGIANO (PG) | TEL. 075 9889031 E 368 7894031 | WWW.MIRALDUOLO.COM | APARTMENTS FROM 250 EUROS WEEKLY

60 DECEMBER 2015

Eight apartments, simply furnished, in a 19th century farmhouse, enlarged with recent additions. Open-air swimming pool. Production and sale of vegetables, eggs, extra-virgin olive oil DOP Umbria Colli Martani. LA MONTAGNOLA | VIA ROMA 11 | TORGIANO (PG) | TEL 075.982962 AND 335.5874094 | WWW.LAMONTAGNOLA.IT | DOUBLE FROM 70 EUROS, BREAKFAST INCLUDED

The agriturismo and olive mill also has three farmhouses at the top of a hill with space for 30. Two swimming pools. LE MANDRIE DI SAN PAOLO | VIA CANNELLA 16 | LOC. SAN VITALE | ASSISI (PG) | TEL. 075 8064070 AND 349 8217867 | WWW.AGRITURISMO MANDRIESANPAOLO.IT

“TOWERS” SCULPTURE BY BRUNO LIBERATORE (1993) IN THE PARCO DELLE SCULTURE IN TORGIANO, NEAR PERUGIA

THE WALL OF MONTE CASTELLO DI VIBIO (NEAR PERUGIA), ONE OF ITALY’S MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES

WWW.MANDRIESANPAOLO.COM | DOUBLE FROM 70 EUROS, BREAKFAST INCLUDED

An historic stone building in a fantastic panoramic position, with 10 rooms, and swimming pool, view over the valley, hydro-massage. Production and sale of extra-virgin DOP Colli Assisi-Spoleto Bio olive oil, durum and regular wheat ÆW]Z TMV\QT[ _QTL ÆW_MZ PWVMa VALLE DI ASSISI | VIA SAN BERNARDINO DA SIENA, 6 | LOC. TORDANDREA | ASSISI (PG) | TEL. 075 8044580 | WWW.VALLEDIASSISI.COM | DOUBLE FROM 90 EUROS, INCLUDING BREAKFAST

The winery, with a restaurant and wellness center, provides various types of accommodation: 4-star hotel, apartments and a villa with period furniture and décor.

TRE BICCHIERI 2015 CERVARO DELLA SALA 2012 | CASTELLO DELLA SALA | FICULLE (TR) | WWW.ANTINORI.IT COLLE OZIO GRECHETTO 2012 | LEONARDO BUSSOLETTI | NARNI (TR) | WWW.LEONARDOBUSSOLETTI.IT MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO 2010 | PERTICAIA | MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.PERTICAIA.IT MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO 2009 | ANTONELLI - SAN MARCO | MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.ANTONELLISANMARCO.IT MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO 2010 | ROMANELLI | MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.ROMANELLI.SE

MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO 25 ANNI 2010 | ARNALDO CAPRAI | MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.ARNALDOCAPRAI.IT MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO CAMPO ALLA CERQUA 2010 | GIAMPAOLO TABARRINI | MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.TABARRINI.COM MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO COLLENOTTOLO 2010 | TENUTA BELLAFONTE | BEVAGNA (PG) | WWW.TENUTABELLAFONTE.IT MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO DELLA CIMA 2010 | VILLA MONGALLI | BEVAGNA (PG) | WWW.VILLAMONGALLI.COM ORVIETO CL. SUP. LUIGI E GIOVANNA VILLA MONTICELLI 2011 | BARBERANI | BASCHI (TR) | WWW.BARBERANI.IT

61 DECEMBER 2015

TORGIANO ROSSO V. MONTICCHIO RIS. 2009 | LUNGAROTTI | TORGIANO (PG) | WWW.LUNGAROTTI.IT

TRE FOGLIE 2015 (TOP-RATED OLIVE OILS) INPRIVIO | VIOLA | FOLIGNO (PG) | WWW.VIOLA.IT MOSTO D’OLIVA | MANNELLI | BETTONA (PG) | WWW.AGRARIAMANNELLI.IT OLIO EXTRAVERGINE DI OLIVA | GIOVANNI BATTA | PERUGIA (PG) | WWW.FRANTOIOBATTA.IT PRINCIPE DI MASCIO DOP UMBRIA COLLI ASSISI SPOLETO | MASCIO | TREVI (PG) | WWW.AGRICOLAMASCIO.IT QUINTA LUNA | GAUDENZI | TREVI (PG) | WWW.OLIODOPGAUDENZI.IT

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

by Antonio Boco

berebene

Umbria

62 DECEMBER 2015

We can say with absolute certainty that year af\MZ aMIZ \PM =UJZQIV _QVMZQM[ PI^M JMMV ÅVLQVO OZW_QVO I_IZMVM[[ IVL UI\]ZQ\a ) KIZMN]T IVITa[Q[ WN \PM [Q\]I\QWV ]VLMZTQVM[ VM_ [\aTQ[\QK IXXZWIKPM[ <MV \W ÅN\MMV aMIZ[ IOW \PM SMa \W M^MZa\PQVO [MMUML \W JM Y]ITQ\a M`XZM[[ML QV I LMKQLMLTa UWLMZV SMa VW UI\\MZ PW_ Q\ _I[ IKPQM^ML# \WLIa \PM IXXZWIKPM[ IZM UWZM LM\IQTML IVL KWUXTM` <PMZM¼[ VM_ I\\MV\QWV \W \ZILQ\QWVIT ^IZQM\QM[ \W \MZZQ\WZQM[ IVL []JbWVM[ \W \PM \aXM WN IOZQK]T\]ZM IVL \MKPVQY]M[ WN ^QVQÅKI\QWV -^MV M^MZaLIa _QVM[ \PW[M UMIV\ \W JM KWV[]UML VWVKPITIV\Ta _PM\PMZ NWZ \PMQZ intrinsic character or their price, shine with VM_ JZQTTQIVKM <PMa IZMV¼\ NITTJIKS XZWL]K\[ J]\ ZI\PMZ TIJMT[ KWV[QLMZML QUXWZ\IV\ Ja \PMQZ XZWL]KMZ[ \PW]OP\ W]\ WN\MV WZQOQVIT IVL [I\Q[NaQVO <PMZM IZM UIVa _QVM[ TQSM \PQ[ ZML IVL _PQ\M IJTM \W ZM[\WZM I UWZM XWX]TIZ IVL M^MZaLIa LQUMV[QWV \W _QVM 1\¼[ I OWWL [QOV

63 DECEMBER 2015

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

MONTEFALCO ROSSO ’11 Adanti

COLLI MARTANI GRECHETTO ’14 Antonelli San Marco

BEVAGNA (PG)| WWW.CANTINEADANTI.COM

MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.ANTONELLISANMARCO.IT

10.00 euros )LIV\Q _QVM[ IZM I [INM JM\ I []ZM \PQVO NWZ _QVM TW^MZ[ _PW TWWS NWZ \ZILQ\QWVIT LMKQLMLTa KTI[[QK ZML[ <PQ[ 5WV\MNITKW :W[[W _Q\PW]\ KPITTMVOQVO \PM M`KMTTMV\ :Q[MZ^I ^MZ[QWV WZ \PM LMTQKQW][ ;IOZIV\QVW Q[ I [I\Q[NaQVO IVL VM^MZ JIVIT JW\\TM <PM VW[M []OOM[\[ XT]U[ IVL ZQXM KPMZZQM[ _PQTM QV \PM UW]\P Q\ [PW_[ JITIVKM LMX\P IVL KIZMN]T M`\ZIK\QWV

7.60 euros +MZ\IQVTa Q\ _I[V¼\ \PQ[ _QVM WZ \PQ[ OZIXM ^IZQM\a \PI\ UILM \PM _QVMZa NIUW][ J]\ VM^MZ\PMTM[[ \PM )V\WVMTTQ ;IV 5IZKW /ZMKPM\\W PI[ []ZXZQ[ML ][ QV ZMKMV\ ^QV\IOM aMIZ[ 1\¼[ I OWWL [QOV WVM \PI\ [PW_[ WNN \PM MV^QIJTa Ã…VM NWZU of this house on all fronts, whether important ZML[ WZ [QUXTMZ _PQ\M[ ) [\MILa PIVL OQ^M[ ][ \PQ[ I]\PMV\QK IVL \I[\a /ZMKPM\\W 7V \PM VW[M VW\M[ WN OZIXM[SQV IVL IXXTM# QV \PM mouth, it is long, NZM[P IVL [I^WZa

MONTEFALCO ROSSO ’11 Briziarelli

05035 NARNI ROSSO ’14 Leonardo Bussoletti

BEVAGNA (PG) | WWW.CANTINEBRIZIARELLI.IT

NARNI (TR) |WWW.LEONARDOBUSSOLETTI

8.50 euros -^MV \PW]OP \PQ[ _QVMZa [\IZ\ML XZWL]K\QWV WVTa ZMKMV\Ta \PM *ZQbQIZMTTQ VIUM PI[ IV QUXWZ\IV\ PQ[\WZa QV \PM _WZTL WN _QVM IVL QV IOZQK]T\]ZM QV OMVMZIT 1\ is, though, a return, a story that XQKS[ ]X \PM \PZMIL[ WN \PM XI[\ IVL \ZQM[ \W UISM Q\[ KWV\ZQJ]\QWV \W 5WV\MNITKW¼[ _QVM UW^MUMV\ ?M ZMITTa TQSML 5WV\MNITKW :W[[W ¼ LMTQKI\M IVL KZQ[X _Q\P []J\TM NZ]Q\a IVL 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ]VLMZJZ][P \WVM[ 6W M`KM[[Q^M VW\M[ WN UI\]ZQ\a WZ _WWL J]\ I R]QKa _QVM \PI\ UISM[ I [XTMVLQL LZQVS

8.40 euros +QTQMOQWTW LQ 6IZVQ JW\\TM[ NZWU *][[WTM\\Q [\IVL QV I KTMIZ PQMZIZKPa )\ \PM \WX >QOVI >MKKPQI \PMV *ZMKKQIZW IVL Ã…VITTa \PQ[ <PM PIZ^M[\ OQ^M[ ][ I []J\TM MVMZOM\QK IVL ^MZ\QKIT ZML -I[a \W LZQVS _Q\P LMTQKQW][ JMZZa VW\M[ Q\ PI[ I LMKQLMLTa KPMMZa \WVM <PM Ã…VQ[P Q[ TQOP\Ta \IVVQK IVL VMML[ I TQ\\TM UWZM JW\\TM \QUM

64 DECEMBER 2015

GRECHETTO ’14 Chiorri

VILLA BARBI ROSSO ’13 Decugnano dei Barbi

7.60 euros 1N _M PIL \W KWUXIZM <Q\W 5IZQW\\Q \W I OZIXM _M _W]TL XZWJIJTa KPWW[M OZMKPM\\W ;\ZWVO \MVIKQW][ KIXIJTM WN [PW_QVO QV\MV[Q\a )]\PMV\QK OMV]QVM <PI\¼[ _Pa \PQ[ ^QVMaIZL QV \PM +WTTQ 8MZ]OQVQ IVL Q\[ /ZMKPM\\W ZM[MUJTM PQU <PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ OQ^M ][ I _PQ\M _Q\P []J[\IVKM IVL R]QKM NZ]Q\ IVL M`KMTTMV\ LMX\P

9.90 euros )V MV\Za TM^MT TIJMT J]\ WVTa WV XIXMZ <PQ[ ZML I\\IQV[ IJ[WT]\MTa VW\M_WZ\Pa TM^MT[ XW[Q\QWVQVO Q\[MTN IUWVO \PQ[ aMIZ¼[ JM[\ QV \PM 7Z^QM\W bWVM <PM KWTWZ Q[ JZQTTQIV\ IVL I U]T\Q NIKM\ML IZZIa WN NZIOZIVKM[ IZM LWUQVI\ML Ja M`]JMZIV\ JTIKS IVL ZML JMZZa \WVM[ IVL \ZI^MZ[ML Ja I LMTQKI\M PMZJIKMW][ IVL JIT[IUQK ^MQV 1V \PM UW]\P Q\ Q[ \I[\a JITIVKML ^MZa XTMI[IV\ IVL UWLMZI\MTa _MQOP\a

ORVIETO (TR) | WWW.DECUGNANO.IT

PERUGIA | WWW.CHIORRI.IT

COLLI MARTANI GRECHETTO PLANIARCHE ’14 Di Filippo

COLLI DEL TRASIMENO BACCIO DEL ROSSO ’14 Duca della Corgna

CANNARA (PG) | WWW.VINIDIFILIPPO.COM

CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO (PG) | WWW.DUCADELLACORGNA.IT

6.30 euros <PM ,Q .QTQXXW NIUQTa XZWL]KM[ I ^IZQM\a WN _QVM[ <PM 8TIVQIZKPM TQVM UIVIOML Ja WVM part of the family, is UILM IKKWZLQVO \W JQWLaVIUQK UM\PWL[ _PQTM ITT \PM W\Per labels have been KMZ\QÅIJTa WZOIVQK NWZ I _PQTM ?M VW\QKML \PM [\]XMVLW][ +WTTQ 5IZ\IVQ /ZMKPM\\W 8TIVQIZKPM ¼ IV orange wine with a ÆWZIT VW[M IVL [PILQVO[ WN PWVMa IVL XWTTMV <PM UW]\P Q[ R]QKa IVL ZPa\PUQK \PM ÅVQ[P XTMI[IV\

6.70 euros )UWVO \PQ[ aMIZ¼[ \I[\QVO QV =UJZQI \PM *IKKQW LMT :W[[W NZWU ,]KI LMTT +WZOVI XTIKML QV \PM ÅZ[\ OZW]X QV \PM LZI_MZ UIZSML »[]ZXZQ[M[¼ 1\¼[ a wine that is usually ^MZa OWWL J]\ \PQ[ version particularly imXZM[[ML ][ 1\ PI[ I ÅVM fresh nose with notes of XWUMOZIVI\M ZML K]ZZIV\[ IVL MTMOIV\ PQV\[ WN PMZJ[ TMILQVO QV\W I R]QKa IVL KZQ[X XITI\M 1\¼[ _WZ\P U]KP UWZM \PIV Q\ KW[\[

65 DECEMBER 2015

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ROSATO ’14 Podere Fontesecca

CILIEGIOLO DI NARNI SPIFFERO ’14 Fattoria Giro di Vento

10.00 euros )V M`\ZIWZLQVIZa _QVM NWZ Q\[ KI\MOWZa 1\ Q[ perhaps the best rosé in the region in terms WN WZQOQVITQ\a ÆI^WZ IVL QUXIK\ <PM KWTWZ Q[ brilliant, a cherry ZML _Q\P I VW[M of refreshing citZ][ NZ]Q\ \WVM[ IVL sweet sensations of [W]Z KPMZZQM[ <PM XITI\M Q[ LMTQKQW][ IVL R]QKa ZPa\PUQK with impressive IKQLQ\a IVL I LQNN][M UQVMZIT [MV[I\QWV :MITTa OWWL

8.70 euros <PM 5IbbWKKPQ NIUQTa _PW TW^QVOTa K]T\Q^I\M \MV IKZM[ WN ^QVMaIZL IVL I JMI]\QN]T NIZU WV \PM [XTMVLQL PQTT[ JM\_MMV 6IZVQ IVL 7\ZQKWTQ LM[MZ^M W]Z ZM[XMK\N]T ILUQZI\QWV <PM [\IZZQVO ^IZQM\a QV \PQ[ bWVM Q\ OWM[ without saying is the KQTQMOQWTW OZIXM IVL the monovarietal wine _M TQSM JM[\ NZWU \PQ[ _QVMZa ;XQNNMZW ¼ PI[ LMTQKI\M M^MV [ML]K\Q^M NMI\]ZM[ ) [PILML ZML color, with a nose of ZW[M[ _QTL XT]U[ IVL XMXXMZ Q\ Q[ KZQ[X IVL LMTQKQW][ QN I [\QTT I TQ\\TM PIZL WV \PM ÅVQ[P

EBURNEO ’14 Cantina La Spina

TORGIANO ROSSO RUBESCO ’12 Lungarotti

6.70 euros )VW\PMZ _PQ\M QV \PM [XW\TQOP\ 4I[\ aMIZ _M VW\QKML 5WZMVW 8MKKQI¼[ .QTIZM 5IQWZM I <ZMJJQIVW ;XWTM\QVW \PI\ _I[ ZMUIZSIJTa OWWL QV \PQ[ ^QV\IOM aMIZ \WW J]\ Q\ _I[ -J]ZVMW \PI\ UILM \PM PMILTQVM[ <PM OZIXM[" OZMKPM\\W \ZMJJQIVW [XWTM\QVW UIT^I[QI LQ +IVLQI <PM V]UJMZ WN JW\\TM[ XZWL]KML Q[ Y]Q\M low, as is natural for a small winMZa TQSM \PQ[ WVM 1\ PI[ QV^Q\QVO NZIOZIVKM[ WN ÆW_MZ[ IVL IZWUI\QK PMZJ[ XT]U IVL _PQ\M XMIKP

10.00 euros ) _WVLMZN]T ^MZ[QWV WN :]JM[KW I 4]VOIZW\\Q TIJMT JWZV QV \PM ! [ <PQ[ ZML Q[ [\QTT UILM _Q\P [IVOQW^M[M KIVIQWTW IVL KWTWZQVW OZIXM[ ^QVQÅML QV [\IQVTM[[ [\MMT IVL IOML QV large barrels for about a aMIZ JMNWZM JW\\TQVO <PM PI[ QUXZM[[Q^M QV\MOZQ\a IVL QV\MV[Q\a 1\[ IZWUI[ WN ZML IVL JTIKS JMZries alternate with notes WN TQKWZQKM IVL 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV PMZJ[ 1V \PM UW]\P it reveals an intriguing saline note that enriches a coherent, properly tannic \M`\]ZM UIZ^MTW][Ta MI[a \W LZQVS

CITTÀ DELLA PIEVE (PG) | WWW.FONTESECCA.IT

NARNI (TR) | WWW.FATTORIAGIRODIVENTO.IT

MARSCIANO (PG) | WWW.CANTINALASPINA.IT

TORGIANO (PG) | WWW.LUNGAROTTI.IT

66 DECEMBER 2015

Prugneto Edizione Limitata Il f

a n ag om R ’ di a ur lt co ti vi a ll de o iore all occhiell

WwW.PODERIDALNESPOLI.com

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NESSUNO ’14 Moretti Omero

ORVIETO CL. SUP. TERRE VINEATE ’14 Palazzone

GIANO DELL’UMBRIA (PG) | WWW.MORETTIOMERO.IT

ORVIETO (TR) | WWW.PALAZZONE.COM

9.70 euros 7UMZW 5WZM\\Q Q[ \ISQVO KMV\MZ [\IOM QV PQ[ bWVM at least among those that interpret wine in an WZOIVQK IVL IZ\Q[IVIT _Ia 7V \PM PQTT[ WN /QIno, he grows the classic varieties of the territory, JW\P ZML[ IVL _PQ\M[ .ZWU \PM TI\\MZ PM UISM[ 6M[[]VW _PQKP UMIV[ 6W WVM I VIUM ][ML Ja 0WUMZ¼[ 7La[[M][ ITT I XTIa WV \PQ[ XZWL]KMZ¼[ W_V VIUM 7UMZW I _PQ\M \PI\ QV LQ[XTIa[ NZM[PVM[[ IVL QUXZM[[Q^M LZQVSIJQTQ\a ITWVO _Q\P I XI\ZQUWVa WN ÆWZIT IVL OMV\QIV ZWW\ IZWUI[

9.70 euros 8ITIbbWVM Q[ 8ITIbbWVM 1\[ _QVMUISMZ /QW^IVVQ ,]JQVQ ZIZMTa UQ[[M[ PQ[ \IZOM\ M[pecially on the white wine front, where he is, Ja VW_ I ZMIT I]\PWZQ\a <PM Y]ITQ\a WN <MZZM >QVMI\M Q[ VW\ []ZXZQ[QVO VW\ QV \PQ[ aMIZ WZ W\PMZ[ 1\ Q[ I \aXQKIT +MV\ZIT 1\ITa _PQ\M 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV IVL []VVa WNNMZQVO [I^WZa IVL QWLQVM [MV[I\QWV[ )ZWUI[ []OOM[\ ZQXM OZIXM XMMT IVL I [QX Q[ IT_Ia[ UW]\P ÅTTQVO

TODI GRECHETTO MONTORSOLO ’14 Cantina Peppucci

SPOLETO TREBBIANO SPOLETINO ’14 Perticaia

TODI (PG) | WWW.CANTINAPEPPUCCI.COM

MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.PERTICAIA.IT

9.20 euros ,QNNMZMV\ \I[\QVO[ WN \PQ[ _QVM PI^M UILM I OWWL impression, but above all, OQ^MV ][ ZMI[WVIJTM M`XMKtations for its evolution in \PM JW\\TM <PQ[ /ZMKPM\\W PI[ I TQOP\ KWTWZ IVL I NZM[P KQ\Z][a LMTQKI\M NZIOZIV\ VW[M <PM XITate coherently follows the IZWUI\QK TMIL WN \PM VW[M Mouthfeel is light but tight, sometimes introvertML aM\ [XTMVLQLTa TWVO ) _QVM \W NWTTW_ I\\MV\Q^MTa

9.20 euros 7VM WN \PM JM[\ <ZMJJQIVW ;XWTM\QVW TIJMT[ WV \PM UIZSM\ \PM ZM[]T\ WN I ^MZa MNNMK\Q^M XZWRMK\ LMLQKI\ML \W \PM ^IZQM\a /]QLW /]IZLQOTQ [MV[ML \PM XW\MV\QIT WN \PM OZIXM IVL _Q\P I [\INN WN M`XMZ\[ SVM_ PW_ \W \ZIV[TI\M PQ[ QV[\QVK\ QV\W ZMITQ\a <PM ^QV\IOM aMIZ aQMTLML I NI[KQVI\QVO _PQ\M _Q\P T]`]ZQIV\ IZWUI[ WN _PQ\M XMIKP KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL TQOP\ ^IVQTTI <PM XITI\M Q[ MVMZOM\QK IVL ^MZ\QKIT ZMNZM[PQVO IVL WN M`KMTTMV\ TMVO\P 1\ _QTT QUXZW^M QV \PM JW\\TM

68 DECEMBER 2015

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ROSSO DELLA GOBBA ’13 Raina

MONTEFALCO (PG) | WWW.RAINA.IT

TODI ROSSO MELOGRANO ’13 Roccafiore

6.70 euros <PMZM IZM VW\ UIVa MV\Za TM^MT _QVM[ WVM[ \PQ[ INNWZLIJTM \PI\ I\\IQV []KP ZMUIZSIJTM TM^MT[ 4M\¼[ M`XTIQV JM\\MZ" :W[[W LMTTI /WJJI Q[ VW\ WVTa I Y]ITQ\I\Q^MTa QUXWZ\IV\ _QVM Q\ Q[ IJW^M ITT IV WZQOQVIT QLMI IVL [\aTQ[\QKITTa MV\PZITTQVO 1\ Q[V¼\ I NITTJIKS ZML OWWL I[ IV IV\QXI[\W \W \PM PW][M¼[ UWZM XZM[\QOQW][ TIJMT[ J]\ ZI\PMZ I JW\\TM \W ]VKWZS _Q\P KWV^QK\QWV 1\ PI[ ZML JMZZa IZWUI[ IVL VW\M[ WN QWLQVM a light-heartML IVL KZQ[X mouthfeel, R]QKa IVL QUU M L Q I \ M T a XTMI[]ZIJTM

TODI (PG) | WWW.ROCCAFIOREWINES.COM 8.10 euros 1N aW] IZM ][ML \W =UJZQIV ZML[ \PI\ IZM ITT U][KTM IVL VW\M[ WN \WI[\ \PQ[ _QVM Q[ VW\ NWZ aW] 0MZM \PMZM¼[ TQOP\ []J[\IVKM I OZMI\ LMIT WN MTMOIVKM I JWVa [PIZX \M`\]ZM IZWUI\QK VW\M[ I[ [PILML I[ \PMa IZM MV\PZITTQVO IVL XZWVW]VKML \IVVQV -LOa actually, typical of the vintage aMIZ IVL WN IV ]V][]IT [\aTM \PI\ _M IXXZMKQI\M TQSM I JZMI\P WN NZM[P IQZ QV \PM ZMOQWV¼[ _QVMUISQVO

CILIEGIOLO DI NARNI ’14 Sandonna

PRATALIA ’14 Santo Iolo

7.60 euros 1V =UJZQI J]\ WV \PM JWZLMZ _Q\P 4IbQW ;IVLWVVI Q[ VMIZ /QW^M QV I OZMMV ^ITTMa \PI\ LWUQVI\M[ \PM <QJMZ :Q^MZ <PQ[ Q[ \PM bWVM WN the ciliegiolo grape IVL Q\ Q[ \PQ[ ^IZQM\a that we believe gives \PM JM[\ ZM[]T\[ <PQ[ ZML PI[ ZQXM KPMZZa aromas, a pulpy, R]QKa XITI\M IVL I light, easy mouthNMMT

8.00 euros ;IV\W 1WTW Q[ \PM JW]\QY]M _QVMZa WN \PM ,]KWTQ NIUQTa 1\ Q[ I JMI]\QN]T WTL NIZUPW][M XMZNMK\Ta ZM[\WZML IVL []ZZW]VLML Ja \PM M[\I\M ^QVMaIZL[ WV \PM PQTT[ WN 6IZVQ *M[QLM[ \PM \_W M`KMTTMV\ ZML[ \PI\ \PM NIUQTa ZMTMI[M[ \PMZM Q[ \PQ[ UWVW^IZQM\IT >MZUMV\QVW 8ZI\ITQI 1V \PM ^MZ[QWV Q\ PI[ I PIVL[WUM [\ZI_ aMTTW_ KWTWZ _Q\P ZQKP ÆWZIT IVL NZ]Q\a VW\M[ WV \PM VW[M <PM XITI\M Q[ [I^WZa IVL NZM[P _Q\P OWWL VMZ^W][ JWLa 1\ KTW[M[ TWVO WV VW\M[ WN 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV ]VLMZJZ][P 1V 1\ITQIV _QVM [PWX[ IJW]\ M]ZW[

GIOVE (TR) | WWW.CANTINASANDONNA.IT

NARNI (TR) | WWW.SANTOIOLO.IT

70 DECEMBER 2015

BERE BENE: BEST BUYS

ASSISI ROSSO ’14 Sportoletti

TODI BIANCO ’14 Tudernum

6.70 euros ) [XQKa VW[M TMVL[ KWUXTM`Q\a \W \PM XZMKQ[M IVL NZM[P NZ]Q\a \M`\]ZM MUJZWQLMZML WV [MV[I\QWV[ WN JMZZa VW\M[ <PM UW]\P Q[ [QTSa aW]\PN]T IVL PI[ OWWL UW]\PNMMT ;XWZ\WTM\\Q¼[ )[[Q[Q :W[[W ¼ Q[ usually among \PM ZMOQWV¼[ best wines in terms of value for money, but it can also IKPQM^M I Y]ITity that brings it close to much UWZM M`XMV[Q^M TIJMT[

6.00 euros 6W\ WVTa \PM \_W UWVW^IZQM\IT /ZMKPM\\W TIJMT[ · \PQ[ aMIZ \PM <WLQ *QIVKW NZWU \PQ[ M`KMTTMV\ KWWXMZI\Q^M _QVMZa IT[W [\Z]KS ][ NWZ \PM Y]ITQ\a IKPQM^ML 5ILM NZWU MY]IT IUW]V\[ WN OZMKPM\\W IVL KPIZLWVVIa OZIXM[ Q\[ VIUM KMTMJZI\M[ \PM IVKQMV\ TWWSW]\ \W_MZ of Chioano, VMIZ <WLQ ) N]TT IVL [UWW\P white with aromas of pollen, ÆW_MZ[ IVL aMTTW_ NZ]Q\ <I[\a IVL WZQOQVIT in the mouth, it closes with a light tannin [MV[I\QWV

ORVIETO CL. BERGANORIO ’14 Tenuta Le Velette

AMELIA GRECHETTO ARVORE ’14 Zanchi

SPELLO (PG) | WWW.SPORTOLETTI.COM

TODI (PG) | WWW.TUDERNUM.IT

ORVIETO (TR) | WWW.LEVELETTE.IT

AMELIA (TR) | WWW.CANTINEZANCHI.IT

7.40 euros <PM _QVM[ UILM I\ 4M >MTM\\M PI^M TWVO JMMV IUWVO \PM \WX WVM[ QV \PM 7Z^QM\W bWVM <PM ZML[ ][ML \W JM \PM JM[\ SVW_V TIJMT[ J]\ \WLIa \PM _PQ\M[ IZM MY]ITTa VW\M_WZ\Pa <PM KTI[[QK LMVWUQVI\QWV[ [\IVL W]\ WJ^QW][Ta IVL IUWVO \PMU Q[ \PM ^MZa OWWL 7Z^QM\W +TI[[QKW *MZOIVWZQW ¼ 1\ Q[ I [I^WZa _QVM _Q\P QV\ZQO]QVO IKQLQ\a [][\IQVML Ja OWWL X]TXa NZ]Q\ IVL IZWUI\QK TMVO\P

7.50 euros <PQ[ _QVMZa PI[ JMMV QV )UMTQI [QVKM ! _PMV Q\ _I[ NW]VLML WV ]VK]T\Q^I\ML TIVL NZWU _PQKP [WUM WTL IJIVLWVML ^QVM[ _MZM UM\QK]TW][Ta ZM[K]ML <WLIa \PM _QVMZa PI[ I UIZSMLTa IZ\Q[IVIT NWW\XZQV\ IVL NW[\MZ[ XI[sionately some QVLQOMVW][ ^IZQM\ies, transforming them into very WZQOQVIT _QVM[ )UWVO \PM[M Q[ \PQ[ /ZMKPM\\W 4¼)Z^WZM ¼ PI[ aromas of chamWUQTM ÆW_MZ[ [XQKM[ IVL J]\\MZ JITIVKML QV \PM UW]\P Ja OWWL KQ\Z][a NZM[PVM[[

72 DECEMBER 2015

WORLDTOUR 2016 Vini d’Italia 2016

trebicchieri JANUARY 18 STOCKHOLM 19 OSLO 25 MUNICH

Vini d’Italia Vini d’Italia trebicchieri SPECIAL EVENT PRESENTATION GUIDE

Vini d’Italia

FEBRUARY 04 CHICAGO 09 NEW YORK 11 SAN FRANCISCO 16 SEATTLE

trebicchieri trebicchieri trebicchieri Top Italian Wines Roadshow

MARCH 03 LONDON 12 DÜSSELDORF 11-13 DÜSSELDORF 21 SYDNEY 28 DUBAI 29 DUBAI 30 ABU DHABI

trebicchieri Special Edition trebicchieri Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience trebicchieri Top Italian Wines Roadshow Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience Top Italian Food & Beverage Experience

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NOVEMBER 04 TOKYO 07 SHANGHAI 09 HONG KONG 18 MOSCA

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MAY 11 12 -13 13 15 -16 16 18 20 25

PRESENTATION GUIDE

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BEIJING TOKYO TOKYO SINGAPORE SINGAPORE BANGKOK MANILA HONG KONG

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INFO:segreteria.estero@gamberorosso.it

SPECIAL EVENT PRESENTATION GUIDE

Vini d’Italia

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

by Francesco Seccagno

EMANUELE MAZZELLA Farm Cooking with a Twist Ischia, an island, and Norcia, a mountain town, come together in Vespasia, a restaurant that brings the freshness of the Gulf of Naples to the Umbrian countryside. Sweetness and acidity, savory and bitter flavors, texture contrasts: here is cucina that is both local and creative from a talented, young chef

75 DECEMBER 2015

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

UMBRIA SEEN FROM THE SEA Emanuele Mazzella comes from the seaside. He is 33 years old, but the last ten of those he has spent in the mountains, or at least, in the hills. Of course, hills and mountains are familiar sights even in his Ischia, the Green Island, the island of rabbit all’ischitana and of snails. At home he worked as sous-chef at the Miramare Castello and, above all, at the Hotel Manzi. But then, over the years, he had experiences up north, in the Dolomites, with Felice Lo Basso at the Alpenroyal; with Norbert 6QMLMZSWÆMZ I\ ;\ 0]JMZ\][ QV \PM SQ\KPMV I\ ;QZQWTI /IZLMVI J]\ IT[W QV <][KIVa I\ )Znolfo, in Colle Val d’Elsa. Finally, here, at VesXI[QI LQ 8ITIbbW ;MVMKI QV 6WZKQI PM NW]VL a gourmet isle on the Castelluccio plateau, by the river Nera and the mountains of Forca +IVIXQVM IVL \PM ;QJQTTQVQ 0Q[ IQU PMZM Q[ \W give tradition a future by interpreting it in a UWLMZV SMa <PM IXXZWIKP KITT[ NWZ KWV[\IV\ research into healthy ingredients native to the territory and an aesthetic vision of each

LQ[P M^MV JMaWVL Q\[ ÆI^WZ 0M Q[ TWWSQVO NWZ a bridge between Umbria and his home reOQWV[ WN +IUXIVQI ¹;XIOPM\\WVQ IZM IV M`ample. With anchovies and asparagus. Garlic, olive oil and hot peppers bring out the pasta. <PM UMUWZQM[ WN \PM [\WZQM[ \PI\ Ua Å[PMZman grandfather told me come out in the IVKPW^QM[ º -UIV]MTM [Ia[ ¹<PM I[XIZIO][ WN \PM ;QJQTTQVQ UW]V\IQV[ _Q\P \PMQZ [\ZWVO bitter cast, remind me of the woods and the KW]V\Za[QLM <PM _QVM I aW]VO NZM[P IKQLQK /ZMKPM\\W ;XWTM\QVW Q[ KZ]KQIT QV \PQ[ LQ[P and brings everything together.” <PM 8ITIbbW ;MVMKI _QVM KMTTIZ Q[ MV\Z][\ML to maitre-sommelier Mauro Clementi: “We want to give room to the grand producers, but above all to great people, those who are in the vineyards, who work them, who live among the rows of vines. We aim to present the wines of producers who don’t look at the numbers, but are constantly trying for a product that is high quality and ethically correct.” 76 DECEMBER 2015

VESPASIA DELL’HOTEL PALAZZO SENECA NORCIA (PG) | VIA C. BATTISTI, 10 | TEL. 0743 817 434 | WWW.RISTORANTEVESPASIA.COM

PIATTO DELL’ORTO GARDEN VEGETABLE PLATTER 4 SERVINGS 4 RAW MUSHROOM SEASONED WITH SALT, OLIVE OIL AND LEMON

4 STRING BEANS, BLANCHED AND SPLIT OPEN 4 ZUCCHINI FLOWERS, BRUSHED WITH OIL AND SLOWLY OVEN-DRIED 1 ROAST BELL PEPPER, PEELED, SEASONED WITH THYME, GARLIC, SALT, OLIVE OIL AND MINT

4 RAW WILD ASPARAGUS, SHAPELY AND CRISP 4 CHUNKS OF OIL-PRESERVED ARTICHOKES

4 SLICES CANDIED VIOLET CARROTS 20 POPLAR MUSHROOMS SAUTÉED WITH GARLIC AND OLIVE OIL

12 THIN SLICES ZUCCHINI MARINATED WITH CHIVES AND OLIVE OIL

10 CUBES OF CELERY ROOT BAKED IN SALT ELDER FLOWERS AND HERBS RAW PEAS OUT OF THE POD

FOR THE GARLIC AND BLACK

NORCIA

TRUFFLE MAYONNAISE

4 PETALS OF SAN MARZANO TOMATOES CONFIT

3 YOLKS

4 BEET CHIPS, SLOWLY OVEN-DRIED

2 G TARRAGON VINEGAR

8 FRIED VIOLET POTATO CHIPS

45 G BLACK NORCIA TRUFFLES

90 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

1 CLOVE FRESH GARLIC

77 DECEMBER 2015

Make the mayonnaise with an immersion blender, adding the ingredients in the above order. Plate the vegetables: spread the mayonnaise on the plate using a pastry bag. Cover it with the ingredients listed above, in any order.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

SPAGHETTONE DI GRANO DURO, ALICI, ASPARAGI E PEPERONCINO DURUM WHEAT SPAGHETTONE, ANCHOVIES, ASPARAGUS AND SMALL RED CHILI PEPPERS 4 SERVINGS 280 G DURUM WHEAT SPAGHETTONE 500 ML GRECHETTO DEI COLLI MARTANI WINE 80 G WILD ASPARAGUS 90 G EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 4 GARLIC CLOVES (UNPEELED) 140 G FRESH, CLEANED ANCHOVIES 1 BUNCH PARSLEY, CHOPPED SALT, BLACK PEPPER, SMALL RED CHILE PEPPER VEGETABLE BROTH

Heat the wine in a small pan over low heat and reduce until almost evaporated. Reserve. In a large frying pan, sweat the garlic cloves until golden brown over medium heat. Add anchovies, PITN \PM XIZ[TMa IVL \PM XMXMZWVKQVW KPQTM XMXXMZ ;QUUMZ with a little broth and reduce. Remove garlic and add raw asparagus. Cook the spaghettone in well-salted boiling water. When the pas\I Q[ ITUW[\ KWWSML LZIQV IVL ÅVQ[P \PM KWWSQVO QV \PM IVKPW^a asparagus sauce over high heat. Adjust salt and pepper. Add the reserved, reduced Grechetto, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and the rest of the parsley. Mix the spaghettone and sauce thoroughly and transfer to serving dish. Optional: for crunch, top with crumbled grissini, moistened with garlic-infused olive oil.

PICCIONE, SEDANO RAPA, BIRRA NURSIA E VISCIOLE DEI MONTI SIBILLINI SQUAB, CELERY ROOT, NURSIA BEER, CHERRIES FROM MONTI SIBILLINI 4 SERVINGS 2 WHOLE SQUAB 100 G MORELLO CHERRIES FROM THE SIBILLINI MOUNTAINS 15 G WILD CHICORY FOR CELERY ROOT PUREE

200 G CELERY ROOT 1 LITER MILK FOR CELERY ROOT BAKED IN SALT

250 G CELERY ROOT (WHOLE) 300 G KOSHER SALT NURSIA BEER REDUCTION ½ TABLESPOON HONEY FOR THE

500 G NURSIA BEER (FROM NORCIA) FOR THE LIVER PATÉ

Cook a whole celery root under [IT\ QV I ! ˆ+ ˆ. W^MV ]V\QT \MVLMZ +WWT IVL [TQKM QV\W ` KU rectangles. In a saucepan, reduce the beer, add the honey and reserve. Prepare the puree by simmering celery root in milk, starting from cold. Whip in a blender and strain. Keep warm. Cook the cherries in sugar and wa\MZ [aZ]X NWZ IJW]\ UQV]\M[ Remove head and feet from squab, separate legs from carcass. Flame any remaining feathers. Clean out and wash carefully the insides of the squab. Reserve heart and livers and prepare patĂŠ. Debone the legs and stuff with patĂŠ. Roll the stuffed legs in plastic wrap. When they are cold and

300 G MILK 1 SHALLOT 50 ML SWEET WHITE WINE 15 G RINSED SALT-PRESERVED PANTELLERIA CAPERS 200 ML VEGETABLE BROTH SALT, PEPPER, SUGAR

79 DECEMBER 2015

Ă…ZUML ]X ZWTT QV IT]UQV]U NWQT IVL KWWS QV ˆ+ ˆ. W^MV NWZ 13 minutes. In a frying pan, brown the breast and the carcass with a clove of garlic and fresh thyme. Finish the squab in the oven ! ˆ+ ˆ. ZWI[\QVO NWZ Ă…^M minutes. Leave to rest. Debone the cooked breast and brown in a PW\ XIV Ă…Z[\ WV \PM [SQV [QLM IVL then on the opposite side, removQVO Q\ NZWU \PM Ă…TTM\ +]\ \PM JZMI[\ in half along its entire length and arrange on dish. Add to plate 2 tablespoons of celery root purĂŠe, 2 pieces of celery root roasted in [IT\ \PM [Y]IJ TMO[ Ă…TTM\[ IVL de-pitted cherries. Garnish with fresh wild chicory leaves.

RECIPES FROM GREAT CHEFS

RICOTTA, FARRO E ARANCE RICOTTA, FARRO AND ORANGES 4 SERVINGS 40 G FARRO

FOR THE ORANGE GELATO

150 G WHOLE MILK

80 G WATER

140 G FRESH EWE’S MILK RICOTTA

40 G SUGAR

30 G SUGAR

40 G ORANGE JUICE

2 WHOLE EGGS

5 G PASTEURIZED EGG WHITES

1 EGG YOLK

FRESH THYME

25 G CANDIED ORANGE RIND FOR THE CRISP FARRO WAFER

25 G PUFFED FARRO

10 G GLUCOSE

SALT

FOR THE ZABAGLIONE AL

80 G POWDERED SUGAR CAMPARI

30 G FLOUR

2 YOLKS

60 G BUTTER

20 G SUGAR

30 G ISOMALT

20 ML CAMPARI

50 G FARRO FLOUR

5 ML COINTREAU

;QUUMZ \PM NIZZW _Q\P \PM UQTS IVL I XQVKP of salt for about 20 minutes. Cool. Mix the fresh ewe’s milk ricotta with sugar and pass \PZW]OP I Ă…VM [\ZIQVMZ )LL KIVLQML WZIVOM rind. Blend farro and ricotta mixtures. Beat the eggs in a deep mixing bowl and fold grad]ITTa QV\W NIZZW IVL ZQKW\\I <]ZV \PM UQ`\]ZM QV\W I [QTQKWVM UWTL KU QV LQIUM\MZ UI`QU]U PMQOP\ KU *ISM I\ ˆ+ ˆ . NWZ UQV]\M[ For the crisp wafer: mix all the ingredients. Roll out the dough very thin, using a rolling pin. Cut into a circle of the same size as the ricotta UWTL IVL JISM QV \PM W^MV I\ ˆ+ ˆ. NWZ UQV]\M[ For the gelato: bring water and sugar to a boil. Add thyme and leave to infuse until cool. Mix the infusion with orange juice and egg white. Filter into a Pacojet container and freeze, or freeze in silicone cups and then whip in a food processor. Prepare the Campari zabaglione in a bainmarie, beating all the ingredients together. Compose the plate: on the bottom, two repeated layers of a still-warm disk of farro and ricotta and a crisp wafer. On top, place a scoop of orange gelato. Garnish with two peeled orIVOM [MOUMV\[ IVL NIZZW KZ]UJ[ ;MZ^M _Q\P I tablespoon of warm zabaglione.

DURUM WHEAT SPAGHETTONE, ANCHOVIES,

GARDEN VEGETABLE PLATTER

ASPARAGUS AND SMALL RED CHILI PEPPERS

FIANO D’AVELLINO 2013 | PIETRACUPA | TEL. 0825 607 418 | MONTEFREDANE (AV)

COLLI MARTANI GRECHETTO SASSI D’ARENARIA 2012 | DI FILIPPO| CANNARA (PG) | VOC. CONVERSINO, 153 | WWW.VINIDIFILIPPO.COM

.I[KQVI\QVO [WN\ IVL UW]\PÅTTQVO \PQ[ .QIVW ZMKMQ^ML I <ZM *QKKPQMZQ I_IZL QV >QVQ L¼1\ITQI 1\ WNNMZ[ XTMI[IV\ IKQLQ\a \W [][\IQV \PM various preparations that go into this dish, rich in ingredients and techniques.

With its pleasantly fruity, intense aroma and robust, lightly savory ÆI^WZ \PQ[ _QVM PI[ IV M`KMTTMV\ Y]ITQ\a XZQKM ZI\QW 1\ _WZS[ _MTT I[ I JZQLOM JM\_MMV \PM ÆI^WZ[ IVL IZWUI[ WN \PM LQ[P

SQUAB, CELERY ROOT, NURSIA BEER, CHERRIES FROM MONTI SIBILLINI

RICOTTA, FARRO AND ORANGES

CILIEGIOLO DI NARNI VECCHIA VIGNA 2011 | LEONARDO BUSSOLETTI | NARNI (PG) | TEL. 0744 715 687 | WWW.LEONARDOBUSSOLETTI.IT

MOSCATO PASSITO VILLA MONTICELLI 2010 | BARBERANI | LOC. CERRETO | BASCHI (TR) | TEL. 0763 341 820 | WWW.BARBERANI.IT

<PQ[ Q[ I JQO TQ\\TM =UJZQIV XZWL]KMZ _Q\P I UWVW^IZQM\IT KQTQMOQWTW TIJMT <PM _QVM KWUXTM` IVL _Q\P OZMI\ [\Z]K\]ZM ÅVM[[M IVL elegance, has soft and velvety tannins. It marries perfectly with the important structure of the dish and the elegance of the squab.

<PM VI\]ZIT LZaQVO WN \PM OZIXM[ TMIL[ \W \PM QV\MV[M IZWUI\QK[ IVL great pleasantness of this bottle. Correctly sweet, it is supported by a dynamic acidic backbone. Citrus and exotic fruit notes blend perfectly with the various components of the dish.

81 DECEMBER 2015

An essential book for all who love Italian wine More than 60 experts spent months doing blind tastings in every region of Italy

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GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2015. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials.

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international@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso USA 83 DECEMBER 2015

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