WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD 速
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T R AV E L
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20 | COVERSTORY Italian Wines 2015 Our English version appears in time for our American tour. Here are the stories behind our Nine Special Awards
40 | Slow Slow Grapes, four patient growers Some territories have grapes that take their time maturing, but a chilly 2014 tested winemakers’ skills 46 | Emidio Pepe: 50 years of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo A memorable vertical tasting of a classic label 50 | Sicily Off-season A food itinerary that explores the island region’s amazing flavors. Sicily’s wintertime sea has its own appeal
GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Chiara Buosi CONTRIBUTORS Michel Bettane, Alessandro Bocchetti, Sara Bonamini, Giuseppe Carrus, Thierry Dessauve, Gianni Fabrizio, Nicola Frasson, Indra Galbo, Eleonora Guerini,Gianni Ottogalli, William Pregentelli, Marco Sabellico, Giulia Sampognaro, Lorenzo Sandano, Francesco Seccagno PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Luigi Fedeli, Ilaria Morelli, Maria Victoria Santiago GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia ADVERTISING GAMBERO ROSSO HOLDING S.P.A. via Enrico Fermi, 161, 00146 Roma tel +39 06 551121 - +39 06 55112206 fax +39 06 55112260 ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO HOLDING S.P.A. 2014. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher.
GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials.
61 | Nothing but Al Dente Understanding what’s behind a plate of perfectly made pasta. Wheat, consistency, toppings and more 66 | Pairing Lab Matching wines to bittersweet radicchio risotto gave some surprising results 70 | Just a Perfect Day: Enrico Crippa in Alba We visit one of Italy’s greatest chefs and we’ll never see food the same way
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@ international@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso USA
31 october
2015
TOKYO
JANUARY
trebicchieri
12 january
NOVEMBER
STOCCOLMA
3 november
Vini d’Italia
trebicchieri
COPENHAGEN
SHANGHAI
14 january
5 november
Vini d’Italia
trebicchieri
OSLO
HONG KONG
20 november MOSCOW trebicchieri
25 november ZURICH
Vini d’Italia
15 january Vini d’Italia
10 february CHICAGO
trebicchieri
12 february SAN FRANCISCO trebicchieri
N
24 april
TORONTO
HELSINKI
MUNICH
TAIPEI
11may
TA S TI
27 february
Roadshow
trebicchieri
GUANGZHOU
2 march SYDNEY
trebicchieri
Vini d’Italia
AS
12 june
ECIAL
MOSCOW MA Vini d’Italia I R P NTE
13 may
ECIAL
IMA
Vini d’Italia ANTEPR TI T
april
Vini d’Italia
MARCH
9 june
Roadshow
MAY A
MELBOURNE
trebicchieri
MEXICO CITY
Vini d’Italia
TA S TI
4 june
Roadshow
18 february LONDON
G
HOUSTON
G
Roadshow
VANCOUVER TEPRIMA trebicchieri AN
N
trebicchieri
21april
ECIAL
ECIAL
EPR ANT
IMA
G
Roadshow
ISTANBUL
NEW YORK
1 june
TA S TI
N
5 february
SP
2 december
JUNE
APRIL
SP
OSAKA
Vini d’Italia
Roadshow
SP
29 october
DECEMBER
trebicchieri
BEIJING
ECIAL
EP ANT
RIMA G
trebicchieri
MIAMI
3 february
15 may
DUSSELDORF
TA S TI
N
ROME
Vini d’Italia
WARSAW
14 march
G
25 october
FEBRUARY
N
OCTOBER
27november
SP
2014
tour 2014/2015
SP
worldtour 2014/2015
Vini d’Italia
trebicchieri
EDITORIAL
TURNING POINT
G
ambero Rosso Wine Travel Food magazine is now a monthly. We are shifting our energy from paper to the web. Taking advantage of cross-media opportunities, including our webtv, we walk through the unbeatable street food of Hong Kong to introduce you to one of the city’s most delicious morsels: steamed shrimp dumplings, wrapped in ethereal dough, the shrimp just cooked through and still firm.
If you love wine, you love food, and if you love both, you treasure travel. The wine enthusiast, by nature, has an eye for detail, for the role of time, and a sense of the painstaking process behind a fine bottle or a wellaged cheese. The wine lover appreciates quality, recognizing that it comes at a price. This is the concept of tourism that we will suggest in these pages.With the Milan Expo coming up in four months, we invite you to explore our beautiful country’s most intriguing off-the-beaten-track itineraries. At the same time, we are doubling our travels abroad. We will host over 30 international events in 2015, and thanks also to our many colleagues around the world, we emerge from our national nest. Following the changes afoot and understanding the tastes of others will help us understand what pleases and why. It will also be a way of taking a fresh look at our own country’s food and wine culture.
But let’s begin to look inside the pages. First of all we need to eliminate some excess skepticism about the 2014 vintage year. It wasn’t as bad as was foreseen up until the end of August. September and October saved it. Quantities were small, but those who worked carefully in vineyard, especially those who had hillside vineyards with good drainage, were able to harvest healthy grapes. This is especially true in the slowerripening territories, where this year, at the beginning of December, there were still some anxious types picking the last grapes. For our travel suggestions, we start with the island where Europe ends, but also begins, Sicily. A crossroad of Mediterranean flavors, the region is an authentic trove of kitchen multiculturalism. Visit Sicily in the off-season, when life is slower and quieter, but every experience has more impact than during the summer. And finally, don’t miss reading about the people behind the nine special prizes awarded by our guide, Italian Wines 2015. Among the grapegrowers, there’s even one who began planting his first hectare of sauvignon after winning a complex bet on soccer, Italy’s beloved Totocalcio.
Lorenzo Ruggeri
WINE PREDICTIONS 2015 1
3
Fortified wines
Pantone, the renowned color institute, has announced that Marsala will be the color of the year 2015, and we believe that the moment has come to brush off the dust that dulls the appeal of fortified wines. These are bottles that call for attention and understanding. Their alcoholic core and iodine character can provide surprising, entertaining pairing with food. Besides Marsala, we are speaking about Sherry, Madeira and Port. Very old vintages are still affordable, and these are wines that convey their history and territory.
Time for mature whites
2
Coravin came to Italy only a few months ago, and it is likely to have the same impact in Europe as in the United States. What we expect in wine bars and restaurants is the unusual and new opportunity to drink old vintages by the glass. We also hope for a change of attitude about mature white wines, which are a safe buys in Italy: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and di Matelica, Fiano di Avellino, Soave Classico.
For once, everyone in agreement American, Italian and British wine journalists agree: 2010 will be seen as an excellent Brunello di Montalcino vintage.
New taste, Old World Many relatively new production zones are moving ahead in terms of quality, for example the area around Izmir, on the Turkish shore of the Aegean Sea. But the greatest shift of interest will still be to zones in the historic wine countries that are less well-known abroad: Beaujolais and Jura in France, Campania and Liguria in Italy, Rias Bajas in Spain.
More and more unusual pairings
5
In new restaurants, the classic rules for wine and food pairings will fade, leaving room for creativity. The surprises will involve not only wine, but, as in places like Noma in Copenhagen, combinations will call for fruit and vegetable juices, as well as ad hoc cocktails. Keep your eye on high quality tea and its ability to accompany different foods with its infinite variety of flavor and toasting. No more 5 o’clock tea.
4
NEWS
ITALY’S RICCARDO COTARELLA leads International oenologists
Occasional Veggies
Last December Riccardo Cotarella added a prestigious title to his curriculum. The “Union International des Oenologues” (Uioe) nominated him President, successor of French oenologist Serge Duboi, who finished his mandate and will now help Cottarella as his vice president. Already President of “Assoenologi”, the Italian national oenologist association, and of the Scientific Committee for Wine for EXPO 2015, Cotarella is now leading an association, the Uioe, that draws on 50 years of experience along with more 20 thousand technicians representing more than 12 thousand companies. Before him, two other Italians held the same position: Ezio Rivella and Giuseppe Martelli.
in the US 84% GO BACK TO MEAT!
There are many reasons why people decide to become vegan or vegetarian: some make it an ethical issue, others refer to ecology and farm pollution, still others consider the cost of high quality meat compared to vegetables. Some believe their health can be damaged by excessive protein.
However, undoing the decision turns out to be very common, at least in the United States where 84% of vegetarians return to eating meat, 53% after one year and 30% after only 3 months. These are the numbers that emerged after a survey by the Human Research Council that interviewed a sample of 11,000 American adults. The main reason that causes vegans or vegetarians to change their diet is the lost sense of “belonging” to a group, as confirmed by 63% of the interviewed. A third of those questioned said that it had become too complicated to live with a family or a partner who hadn’t adopted the same food regime. Being a vegan or a vegetarian in the United States, a country that is used to eating enormous quantities of meat, is not easy due to many cultural and psychological barriers..
«Good wine is cheaper than therapy» Dorothy Parker
6 JANUARY 2015
Proust’s
madeleine
saved by crowd-funding as bankrupt biscuit shop Jeannette di Caen asks for donations from the French The Biscuiterie Jeannette, founded in 1850 in Caen in Southern Normandy, became famous because it reproduces Proust’s madeleines, famous shell-shaped little cakes based on flour, sugar, eggs, butter and vanilla. Proust evoked his childhood through these sweets, which inspired his masterpiece, Remembrance of Things Past. Last December the Biscuiterie was forced to close down by a judicial tribunal. Production was halted and 37 workers were fired within a month. In order to save the company, the workers united in a cooperative and launched an online crowd-funding on the Bulbintown site with the aim of collecting the initial capital (50 thousand euros) necessary to relaunch activities. The plea to the French was successful. Thousands decided to donate amounts between 1 and 2,500 euro in exchange for public gratitude or small rewards. Those who expressed most solidarity won 60 biscuit baskets with the original products from the company or the possibility of personalized recipes. This method made it possible to double the amount requested, arriving at a total of 100 thousand euros, a sum that give a strong new thrust to production. Meanwhile, the judge accepted as the new owner Franco-Portuguese entrepreneur Georges Viana, who has already announced the baking of new madeleines for February.
FUTURE FOOD DISTRICT: the interactive supermarket at EXPO, gives a taste of a high tech future. Future Food District: the interactive supermarket at EXPO, gives a taste of a high tech future. Technology and Science support food supply transparency. Starting next May, in the heart of EXPO 2015 between Cardo and Decumano, a 2,500 square meter pavilion will be devoted to a supermarket designed by Italian architect Carlo Ratti (director of the Senseable City Lab of MIT in Massachusetts). The supermarket, along with a large adjacent square (4,500 square meters) is the Future Food District. Its objective is to put the individual at the center of the food chain, bringing people back to the past by having them meet at the square, which becomes a center for both producer and consumer. Products will be exhibited on interactive tables that, at a touch, will convey information regarding food properties with maximum transparency: from the places where the foods derive, to the organoleptic features to the distribution channels. The adjacent square is meant to describe new urban agricultural frontiers: hydroponic crops, vertical gardens, microalgae covers. Furthermore there will be stands for food preparation and sale. Food can be consumed on green cultivated tables.
7 JANUARY 2015
ECONOMY
IWSR FORECAST REPORT 2014-2019: Asia will remain key for long term growth Despite the recent slowdown in China and other emerging markets, Asia remains the key region for the long-term development of the global alcohol market. According to the IWSR Forecast Report 2014-2019, Asia is expected to see the largest volume increase of any region across the beer, wine, spirits and mixed drinks categories. Total yearly consumption is set to surge by almost 1.2bn nine liter cases by 2019. In contrast, consumption in Europe is projected to contract by 27.2m cases over this time, a result of steady decline in both the beer and wine categories. Two Asian markets, China and India are forecast to be the largest growing spirits markets
between 2013 and 2019, together accounting for a rise of 120.5m cases in yearly spirits consumption. In fact, the US is the only non-Asian market to appear among the top five largest growth markets for spirits in this period. Local spirits (including national spirits such as baijiu, as well as local whisky and brandy) will continue to drive much of the expansion within Asia, although many markets are also showing a wealth of opportunity for imported products. Meanwhile, local brands are forecast to increase with a steady compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of +1%, and imported spirits are set to grow with a CAGR of +3.8% between 2013 and 2019, an increase of 8.7m cases.
Goodbye to Serge Hochar, Lebanese wine legend
WATCH THE VIDEO
Serge Hochar, owner of Chateau Musar, disappeared on January 2 in Mexico during holidays. A hearthfull, passionate and attentive person who always showed care towards his wines and his country even during the Civil war when conditions were adverse. He always put his wines before everything else achieving extraordinary results.We like to remember him through one of his most emotional wines: the white Chateau Musar 2004. The fertile Bekaa Valley, 25 miles east of Beirut, enjoys 300 days of sun annually and a refreshing breeze from the surrounding mountains. At about 1,000 meters above sea level, cultivation is organic by default. We highly appreciated vertical tasting of red Chateau Musar, but we want to point out the white Chateau that we enjoyed tasting with owner Sergei Huchor at the ProWein in Dusseldorf. Two ancient native varieties, mewah and obaideh, have distinct, unique traits. The wine opens slowly on notes of wild flower honey, saffron and a delicate hint of tropical fruit. On the palate it is markedly pure and balanced, with taste progression that continues to a long, precise finish. It should not be served cooler than 14째 C/57째F. Sit tibi terra levis, Serge. 8 JANUARY 2015
TWITTER dixit Tyrion Lannister@GoT_Tyrion A balanced diet is a glass of wine in each hand 12:50am · 7 Jan 2015
South Coast Winery@SCWinery “@winewankers: Priorities! #wine #winelover ” smart fish! 05:37 – 7 Jan 2015
Demi Cassiani@DemiCassiani
#WINE INFUSED POPCORN for the #WineLover thedrinksbusiness. com/2013/07/kim-cr… @tinastullracing @winewankers @MacCocktail 3:07am · 9 Jan 2015
Gerry Rogers@GerryRogers
RT @winewankers: “Everyone is talking about #food trucks - I’m looking for #wine trucks!” MT @winetech 15 :01 – 8 Jan 2015
Julien Miquel #Wine @JMiquelWine
ARGENTIANS fond of #MALBEC 84% high-end red #wine drinkers name it as their Fav buenosairesherald.com/ article/178759… #WineLover 23:13 – 5 Jan 2015
9 JANUARY 2015
LETTER FROM PARIS
HOW TO LOOK FOR QUALITY IN WINE What is quality in wine? That’s a question that requires a considered answer. An idiot will immediately think, “I know what I like.” Narcissistic subjectivity equals variable judgments equals guaranteed disaster! Others will seek for more solid and stable criteria. Defining the criteria of quality without trying to define the nature of the product we have to judge makes no sense. Therefore, we have to ask what is the nature of wine? For us, the essential realization was to see wine as a special product, half gift of nature and half testimony to human ability. It expresses the spirit of a territory, of a vineyard, of its yeasts, but also it depends on the grower’s permanent management of the vineyard, from the ripening of the grape to its fermentation right through to the aging before releasing the wine on the marketplace. Appreciating that process means understanding and judging each step along a complex pathway. Therefore, above all, judging quality requires study, a great deal of study of basic theory in books and of the actions they lead to in practice. We want to thank all those producers who have grasped our way
of working and have helped us to improve and deepen it, sharing their experience with us, patiently dedicating their time to us. Next it’s necessary to constantly verify the progress of the vintage year in the vineyard, devoting many days to observing details and questioning producers and technicians. Finally, last but not least, comes the thorny question of taste. something tied to our DNA and to each individual’s history, therefore difficult to communicate universally. We, as wine writers, need to find simple, clear words, easily understandable, to communicate the general characteristics of wines, words that don’t depend on individual whims, but that allow emotion to appear without hiding the aesthetic criteria that structure judgment. Taste, in a nation with long winemaking traditions, doesn’t emerge from the unpredictability or caprice of the grapegrower, but from the nature of his work (most are men) in the era in which he lives, including his manners and moods, as he carries on a tradition that we must understand and teach others to understand. Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve
10 JANUARY 2015
Excellence is always rewarded. Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2009 - Medaglia D’oro Jacaranda 2008 Vinitaly 2010 - Diploma di Gran Menzione Kilim Bianco 2009 e Kilim Rosso 2007 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2010 - Gran Medaglia D’oro Kilim Rosso 2007
US TOUR
Masterclass in Chicago: Oltrepò Pavese THE POWER OF PINOT NERO Besides the four mentioned above, we are holding another event entirely devoted to the primary Italian production area for Pinot Nero, Oltrepò Pavese, located in Lombardy. On February 11 in Chicago, Marco Sabellico, senior editor of the Gambero Rosso guide, Italian Wines, will hold a seminar and lead a major tasting designed to showcase the potential of this territory, a zone with a long winemaking tradition, especially in the production of Metodo Classico sparkling wines.
THE TWELVE DAYS OF GAMBERO ROSSO IN AMERICA Four events on a row: Miami, New York, Chicago, and San Francisco
Testimonial wineries Ca’ di Frara Fiamberti Giorgi Montelio Quaquarini Tenuta Fornace La Travaglina
Punctual as a Swiss clock, the Gambero Rosso U.S. Tour takes off in February. The kick off will be in Miami on February 3 for the first Vini d’Italia event in Florida. Vini d’Italia, the tour dedicated to wineries selected in the Gambero Rosso wine guide, will hit the ground in Miami for a unique wine tasting. The happening is scheduled for Tuesday, February 3, at the elegant Coral Gables Country Club. The Vini d’Italia tour emphasizes all those labels with excellent price/quality ratios that best represent the stylistic profile of each winery, those that show off the serious nature of each producer’s work. After that it’s time for the classic Tre Bicchieri Triplete: February 5 in NYC, February 10 in Chicago, February 12 in San Francisco. The format has never changed: if you don’t have a Tre Bicchieri award-winning wine to show off, you have to stay home.
10 February 2015 11.00 am - 12.30 pm | Master Class 12.30 - 14.30 pm | Meeting with winemakers and light lunch UNION GALLERY 225 S Canal St, CHICAGO, IL 60606 INFO: gr@mccuemc.com
12 JANUARY 2015
I
BRIEF HISTORY OF OLTREPÒ PAVESE PINOT NERO
taly’s first civil and commercial codes were established in April, 1865, the same month and year that, across the ocean, Abraham Lincoln was assassinated as the American Civil War was drawing to a close. The year 1865 was also an important year in the zone of Oltrepò Pavese, the area of Lombardy south of the Po River known for its extensive winegrowing. That was when Count Carlo Giorgi di Vistarino introduced the first cuttings of pinot nero in the Rocca de’Giorgi valley. His objective: to produce a sparkling, metodo classico wine on the French model. A few years later, thanks also to the experience of Carlo Gancia and engineer Domenico Mazza di Codevilla, who decided to hire a French enologist from Reims, the first bottles of an Italian bubbly were produced and sold. It was an immediate commercial success. In 1907, the Società Vinicola di Casteggio (SVIC) was founded, led by enologists Pietro Riccadonna and Angelo Ballabio, two men whose names are still revered by modern spumante makers. The SVIC began actively exporting to North America right from the start. The cooperative that became the point of reference for spumante-making in the Oltrepò Pavese was not founded until 1930: Cantina Sociale La Versa, in the beautiful Versa valley. The terrain was hilly,
rich in limestone and marl, and enjoyed exceptional temperature swings between night and day – all contributing to a natural habitat for pinot nero grapes. In 1960, after the founding of the Consorzio Vini Tipici, a period of growth and prosperity followed. The leading figure was Duke Antonio Giuseppe Denari, who, in the 1970s and 1980s managed to capture the attention of sparkling-wine devotees and direct it towards a territory that by then had been making bubbles for a hundred years. In the last two decades of the 20th century, many grapegrowers decided to bottle the wine from their own grapes, and in 2007, a DOCG was established that certified and regulated the production of metodo classico sparkling wines. The regulations require: 15 months on their lees for the basic version, 24 for the vintage type. Pinot nero must account for a minimum of 70% for the Metodo Classico denomination and at least 85% for Metodo Classico Pinot nero. In recent years, quality has improved enormously. Cuvées like the 1870 made by Fratelli Giorgi or Nature from Monsupello have proved to be among the finest and most complex expressions of Italian Metodo Classico bottles. We’re hoping to see you in Chicago to see whether you agree with our judgments.
STREET FOOD
PALERMO VS HONG KONG TWO STREET FOOD CLASSICS
Arancine Ingredients 400 g semifino rice about
1,2 liters broth
1 small onion 50 g butter 60 g grated Parmigiano 1 pinch of saffron 1 cup meat sauce 3 full tablespoons fresh or frozen peas
100 g fresh, semi-firm cheese 2 eggs 300 g breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons flour extra virgin olive oil for frying
Preparation Sauté a finely chopped onion in butter. When it starts to brown, add rice and toast for a few minutes, stirring constantly. Add almost all the hot broth (the rest can be added later, if needed), raise the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally. A few minutes before the rice is ready, add the saffron dissolved in a tablespoon of warm water. When cooked, the rice should still be a little “al dente” and quite thick. Add the grated cheese, then spread the risotto on a marble table or on a large serving dish and leave to cool. Boil the peas in a little salted water, drain and mix with rather dry meat sauce. Cut the cheese into cubes. Scoop up a handful of risotto, make a cavity, and fill with two teaspoons of sauce, some peas and a cube of cheese. Close the cavity with a little more risotto and shape the arancino with your hands. It should be the shape and size of a small orange. When finished, beat the eggs in a bowl, roll the arancini first in flour, then dip in egg and finally roll in bread crumbs, giving them a thick and uniform coating. Let them rest for a few hours to cool before frying in abundant hot oil [175°C]. When well-browned, drain and place the arancini on a double sheet of paper towel to cool slightly. Serve hot.
o m r e l a P
14 JANUARY 2015
g n o K g n o H EO E VID H T CH WAT
Steamed Shrimp Dumplings Ingredients (30 Dumplings) Each Serving 1 piece 300 g wheat starch 300 g potato starch 600 ml boiling water Seasonings and ingredients for the Filling: 300 shelled shrimps with no head (each 30g) cut to 2 cm size 80 g canned bamboo shoot (diced) 5g Table Salt 5g Chicken Powder 22g Grounded White Sugar 2g Thai Fish Sauce 2g Potato Starch 2.5g Sesame Oil 20g Lard Garnishing
1pc Carrot (large) Slice and cut out With 5 cm Metal Ring
Preparation Peel and devein shrimps. Boil the diced bamboo shoots for 5 minutes, strain, then put aside. Slice carrot thinly around 1mm. Use the 5cm diameter vegetable cutting ring to cut the carrot. Boil some water, add the cut carrots for 30 seconds, strain and then put aside. Place the shrimps in a food processor and add all the seasonings. Turn on at low speed. Once the mixture starts to emulsify, add the bamboo shoot, lard and sesame oil and turn to medium speed. When well mixed, remove the filling and place in a bowl. Refrigerate for 15 minutes. Making the dough. Sift the wheat starch and 75g potato starch into mixing bowl, add boiling water and stir vigorously into a paste. Add the remaining potato starch and knead into soft dough on a work surface. Use a dim sum scraper to help work the dough. Let the dough cool. (At the end it should feel firm) . Take a chunk of the dough and roll into a long tube (2cm thick) and cut into small pieces which should weigh 6g each. Making the dumpling skin. Rub the sides of the dim sum knife lightlyon special oiled paper and then press down the dough to make a small circle. With a filling spoon, place 19g of fillings in the center of the skin and seal it to form pleats on the dough, pinching the edge closed. Place carrot slices in the bamboo steamer. Place the dumplings on top. Steam dumplings for 3½ minutes until the wrapper turns translucent. (The steamer should be pre-heated to boiling temperature.) Serve in bamboo steamer. 15 JANUARY 2015
ACADEMY
ITALIAN LESSONS by Lorenzo Ruggeri
I
n November and December, the Rome-Hong Kong route was the favorite of chefs, journalists and Italian wine producers. Fairs, events, festive dinners and restaurant openings made Hong Kong the most popular destination in Asia for European wine and food. Under the auspices of the VTC, Vocational Training Council of Hong Kong, the institute for Chinese cuisine in the great ex-British colony, we came to make our contribution to future generations of restaurateurs. This writer proposed a full immersion tasting of Chinese specialties from every region paired with Italian wines, and soon we’ll tell you about the surprising results. We spoke to Adelaide Michelini, well-known Roman chef and Gambero Rosso Channel personality, who for two weeks taught a course featuring the principal dishes of Italian cooking. “It was an amazing experience. Hong Kong is like New York in terms of its liveliness, culture and rhythms. We went to teach the dishes of Italian tradition, some of them re-invented in a modern key, organized geographically, with lessons on the cooking of the north, center and south of Italy. We included some holiday dishes. We did a
in Hong
demo for students, a cooking show, practical lessons, as well as explaining the secrets of a special Sunday brunch.”
What did your students like the best? The three classic Ps interest them the most: pane, pasta and pizza. In general, all baking fascinates them. The idea of risotto as we Italians understand it is foreign to their culture, so it was more complex to get across – a real challenge. Your greatest difficulties? Students didn’t know much the geography of Italy, so that took time. They found it difficult to conceive of finishing work so quickly. But the understanding of Italian cucina is grow-
16 JANUARY 2015
ing rapidly and they know what authentic Italian cooking is, despite many fakes such as chicken parmigiana, linguine alfredo, pizza with pineapple and ham. Not to mention carbonara with cream (in Italy, they’d shoot you for much less).
Your impressions of local cooking? Modern Chinese cooking in Hong Kong is very interesting. In Europe, we are not used to viscous consistencies. They like many foods that seem slimy and gelatinous to us. The seasonal snake soup typical of November and December is very interesting. Its flavor resembles our chicken soup.
Kong
Bangkok and Hong Kong: what do these experiences abroad mean to you? Teaching abroad is marvelous from the human and professional point of view. It’s very stimulating, it introduced me to many flavors and ingredients. It opened my mind to new approaches and kitchen techniques that we don’t have. Take ravioli, for example. Dim sum is a fascinating art. They work with a knife, not spreading the dough with a rolling pin, the way we do, but with the upper part of a knife. I hope to be able to bring dishes from Thailand to our television channel soon. I brought ingredients and spices home that I would never have otherwise encountered.
17 JANUARY 2015
Gambero Rosso in Tokyo
Here are Gambero Rosso’s next moves in Tokyo. In May, presentation of the second edition of our Vini d’Italia guide in Japanese. Work has begun on the Gambero Rosso Academy Japan in Tokyo, in the Akasaka quarter. The first Italian cooking courses has started, and soon the program will also include wine tasting lessons, vertical tastings and talks by Gambero Rosso instructors who will travel across the world to share their knowledge and passion with our Tokyo fans. We’ll update you soon. Stay tuned.
! GO
TO R
SMART IDEAS
ON-T O N I HE L L TE
D
id you ever imagine eating tortellini on the road? Here is the on-the-go tortellino, the realization of the hidden dream of many gourmet! An idea that is so simple as it is brilliant, and even more innovative if one considers that La Bottega dei Portici is an extension of the kitchen of the famous restaurant of the hotel I Portici, found in the 19th century Maccaferri palace in Bologna. Under the famous arcades of one of the city’s most important streets, this shop was born as a laboratory with showcase on the road from which it will be possible to see the “sfogline” working on the traditional dough preparation. The menu is outstanding. In this shop traditional tortellini can be bought along with an exquisite broth and they will be delivered in a classic American heat-treating cup so they can easily be consumed on the road or where one chooses. The proposals are not limited only to tortellini in broth, there are many other types of fresh tortellini including those with melted butter and Parmesan or with Provola cream. There is also the choice of tagliatelle with ragù. If one prefers to take the torLa Bottega dei Portici www.labottegadeiportici.com
I Portici www.iporticihotel.com
tellini home there is no problem as the broth will be vacuum-sealed and the pasta will be stored in elegant boxes. I Portici Hotel also cherishes another surprise for the lovers of creative cuisine. It is possible to have dinner at the exclusive I Portici Restaurant in the midst of the suggestive and special atmosphere of an antique Caffè Chantant, where Liberty frescoes from the ninteenth century blend with elements of contemporary art. The chef Agostino Iacobucci prepares dishes based on the successful union of Mediterranean kitchen, with its typical flavors from Campania, with a more classical Bolognese tradition. This means: Handmade pasta, excellent primary goods and continuous new entries: from cuttlefish with peas, tartare, caviar, pea icecream and sprouts, to Bresse roasted chicken with shellfish sauce, salad, anchovies, bacon and herbs. Among the desserts there is an exquisite babà with three leavening stages. Very nice wine list with important Italian and foreign references.
Our new Chianti Classico Gran
Selezione
Nerento An Emotion that involves the Senses. Villa Trasqua in USA: Palmateer Consulting, LLC San Rafael, CA www.palmateerconsulting.com
Tenuta VILLA TRASQUA LocalitĂ Trasqua 53011 Castellina in Chianti Siena - Tuscany - Italy Tel. +39 0577 74 30 75
Villa Trasqua in AUS: Twelve Bottles Melbourne, VIC www.twelvebottles.com.au
PROWEIN 2015 - Halle 15, D68
www.villatrasqua.it info@villatrasqua.it
Eccellenza Italiana
VINITALY 2015 - Pad. 8, D2
ITALIAN WINES 2015
by Gianni Fabrizio, Eleonora Guerini, Marco Sabellico
20 JANUARY 2015
It’s a nebbiolo year The 2010 vintage will make history Our guide is now available in five languages
ITALIAN WINES 2015 | 984 pages | Price 30 euros Available on amazon.com
ITALIAN WINES 2015
A
s timely as each of our other 28 vintages, the season has once again come round to take stock as we offer you the new edition of Italian Wines. The guide will be presented during the the Gambero Rosso U.S. Tour which will take off in Miami on february 3, February 5 New York City, 10 Chicago, 12 San Francisco. Much has happened since that first edition in 1988, and there have been a great many changes. The early Italian wine revival was followed by numerous stages of technical development and innovation, and today the focus has shifted to the vital role of the vineyard itself, to sustainability, and a general approach to oenology and viticulture that is less dependent on technology and more attuned to nature. Traditional growing areas and cultivars are really stealing the limelight now, yielding in the current edition alone a dazzling array of no less than 423 Tre Bicchieri winners, courtesy of some excellent vintages that include 2010 in Piedmont, and 2010 and 2011 in Tuscany. Our team of 60 experienced wine-tasters spent months travelling around vineyards and wine cellars, sampling approximately 45,000 items sent from every region in rigorously conducted blind tastings with covered bottles, and samples uniformly arranged by area, type and year. The entire editorial staff and the delegates from each of the participating territories attended the tasting finals. In addition, this year we were honoured to welcome Barbara Philip, MW of the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch, who contributed her expertise to the tasting panel and whose presence was testimony to the international scope of Italian Wines, which for years has been translated into German, English and Chinese, with a Japanese version being added last year, making it the world’s premier publication dedicated to Italian wines. The Guide is appreciated globally for its simple and
easy-to-understand style, from the outset seeking to be accessible equally to trade experts and simple wine buffs, epitomized by the now-classic points system which everyone knows: Un Bicchiere for good wines we recommend; Due Bicchieri for the best expressions of a territory, and Tre Bicchieri, the internationally recognized trademark, for wines of excellence. This has enabled us to select 2,402 high-level wineries ranging from the boutique scale to the international producer, as well as 20,000 wines. Our approach remains as unbiased and as open-minded as possible. It’s a quintessentially impartial guide and it includes biodynamic wines, orange wines, wines produced using the latest techniques, as well as the great whites and reds that are the result of our 2,000 years of winemaking history. In the guide we also list over 80 Tre Bicchieri Verdi awards that went to organic or biodynamic wineries, as well as over 100 award-winning wines available at your local stores for under 15 euros. A full description of each winery accompanies the points, from prices to production volume, from the extent of the vineyards in hectares to the type of winegrowing, details about the grower’s history and style, and the territoire where they operate, including the written reviews over wines thate were missing in Italian Wines 2013. In the following pages we tell the stories of the 9 special awards chosen by the guide. Some themes are common to many stories: a dynamic interpretation of tradition, the capacity to understand the present in order to be constantly upto-date, a strong component of courage, strategy and long-term vision. Sometimes, chance plays its cards, as for Riccardo Snidarcig’s company Tiare in Friuli Venezia Giulia, the emerging winery of the year. His first hectare of Sauvignon, future first prize even at the Bordeaux world festival, was bought after a bet on soccer.
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23 JANUARY 2015
WHAT MAKES THIS WINE UNIQUE? Its strong character. Its extraordinary ability to pair with any flavor. Titulus Fazi Battaglia can give you all this: a wine with a rare and precious fruity and mineral taste, made only with a Verdicchio grapes selection grown out of two hundred acres of property in the Castelli di Jesi Classico. And this wine is also outstanding and recognisable thanks to its amphora shape bottle: unique as its content, loved by millions of people in Italy and in the world.
fazibattaglia.it
Roncaglia&Wijkander
Verdicchio Fazi Battaglia. International taste, Italian wine.
ITALIAN WINES 2015
2012 - OPERA ORIGINALE DI QIU GUANGPIN
9 Special Awards Con l’uva della vendemmia 2007
Vietti
ha imbottigliato 3.726 bottiglie, 100 magnum, 5 doppi magnum di
Barolo
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
riserva “Villero”
questa è la bottiglia
Imbottigliato all’origine da Vietti - Castiglione Falletto - Italia
14,5% vol
prodotto in Italia - lotto 105538
75 cl.
What’s behind our winning labels? Here are the best wines in each category. 25 JANUARY 2015
ITALIANITALIAN WINES 2015/PRIZES WINES 2015
Red of the Year Barolo Villero Riserva ’07
A work of art
T
even when the Langa’s best producers preferred to assemble different crus rather than seek out quality from the beginning, through separate vinification of single vineyards. Another interesting factor that differentiates the Barolo Villero Riserva of Vietti from other wines is its labels, miniature works of art that call for the collaboration of international artists. “The idea of auteur labels,” Luca and Mario explain, “comes from Alfredo Currado, Luciana Vietti’s husband. During a tasting with friends and painters, he saw the enthusiasm with which they greeted this Barolo. That gave him the idea of decorating labels with artists’ works.” by Gianni Fabrizio
he Vietti family’s Barolo Villero Riserva, produced in only eight vintage years since 1982, is a fine example of Piedmont’s and Italy’s top wine achievements. Luca Currado and Mario Cordero, the estate’s key figures, have expanded and showcased the Vietti brand in many countries around the world. Its well-deserved fame places it among the globe’s best known quality names. The decision to select the Villero cru as the terroir for the production of a riserva, given the many candidates among the family’s heritage vineyards, emerged from the intrinsic characteristics of this property in the Castiglione Falletto comune. It is land particularly suited for nebbiolo wines slated for aging. The Vietti family has owned, since the end of the 1070s, about 9,000 square meters, to which they added another 6,900 in 2014. Vinifying single vineyards has always been a Vietti practice,
Vietti
Castiglione Falletto (CN) | www.vietti.com
26 JANUARY 2015
White of the Year Trebbiano d’Abruzzo V. di Capestrano ’12
The Secret Life of Trebbiano
O
nly a little while ago, if someone had said that a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo would be the White of the Year, we would all have laughed. It’s true – there was Valentini, but he was a kind of saint and didn’t count. Trebbiano is a simple, efficacious wine. It doesn’t have the noble lineage of Verdicchio or the mineral allure of Fiano. It’s a good wine for drinking with grilled fish from the Adriatic. That’s even truer of Trebbiano from the Aquila province, from inland Abruzzo. But champion racehorses show their true nature and suddenly emerge from the herd on their own. Villa Reale is an artisanal winery in an enchanted land, partly in the Pescara province and partly on the plateau of Ofena, province of Aquila. This is a territory ignored by enology, where growing vines is difficult. The climate is harsh and the temperature variations extreme. Leo Pizzolo came here from Verona and fell in love with this demanding zone. First
he tried to make classic, ambitious wines, attentive to every detail. Then he undertook the challenge of spontaneous fermentation and exhausting, artisanal vinification. Capestrano was his first attempt. Others followed, until the entire estate was organic and biodynamic. We have watched this Trebbiano mature and evolve year after year. On the nose, it has intense aromas of orange blossoms and chamomile, then toastiness – the classic Trebbiano marker – not made banal by aromatic, technical yeasts. Then, medicinal herbs begin to appear. The mouth is full and juicy, never too wide or heavy, but offering clean notes of ripe white fruit. by Alessandro Bocchetti
Valle Reale
Popoli (PE) | www.vallereale.it
27 JANUARY 2015
ITALIAN WINES 2015
Sparkling of the Year Brut Cl. Nature Monsupello
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The power of Oltrepò
he Special Award for a sparkling wine brings us to Torricella Verzato, in the Oltrepò Pavese. We judged it the most outstanding cuvée of the zone for its history, reliable quality and precise adherence to the nature of its territory. Its tasting profile betrays it in our blind tastings: that vibrant but always perfectly integrated acidity and that profile of clean, crisp berries and aromatic herbs are unmistakable. “I dedicate the prize to my father, Carlo Boatti,” says Pierangelo Boatti, who heads the winery with his mother Carla and his sisters, Laura and Carlotta. Since 2006, Marco Bertelegni, one of Italy’s most talented enologists, has been part of the team. “He sent me to Champagne where I learned how to deal with grapes and must. ‘You have to handle pinot nero like eggs,’ he told me. We use only the first pressings. Over time we have taken over management of all our vineyards, and from a pressing of 100 kilos of grapes, we never get more than 40 liters of
28 JANUARY 2015
must. We only extract the external part of the berry: low ph and very high acidity. That’s it,” Pierangelo explains. The bottles of Nature in the shops, pinot nero with 10% chardonnay, although no year appears on the label, are the expression of the 2010 harvest, the year that Carlo Boatti died. The wine aged on its lees for 36 months. “In terms of weather, it was an amazing year, like 2013, with great temperature variations and intense aromas. Over the years, I have reduced the use of sulfur and I don’t use decoloring agents,” Marco Bertelegni tells us. The amber highlights remind us of red grapes, then on the nose come clear hints of raspberry, anise and coffee. On the palate, the wine is flavorful, precise, mouthfilling and very long. Its price at the winery? Ten euros and fifty cents, plus tax. Incredible! by Lorenzo Ruggeri
Monsupello
Torricella Verzate (PV) | www.monsupello.it
An island that has witnessed on its land the passage of several rulers and that since the muslims’ times has been characterized by three big valleys: Mazara Valley to the west, Demone Valley to the north-east and Noto Valley to the south-east.
THE TERRITORY Sicily is the largest Italian island on the Mediterranean Sea. The region is hilly, though not lack mountainous areas and plains. Among the most typical aspects you can highlight the intense volcanic activity of the islands, characterized by Etna, Stromboli and Vulcano. All this constitutes an exceptional mix of tourist attractions, offering visitors endless opportunities for choice to spend your stay in this land.
THE FOOD Sicilian cuisine has been influenced by historical, cultural and religious aspects of the island. Since the Greeks times in Sicily developed a specific style of cooking habits enriched over time with new flavors and new dishes. Complex and articulated, Sicilian cuisine is considered most scenic and the richest of specialties in Italy. Agenerous sun gives the fruits of the earth intense flavors and a wide variety of fish in the sea, excellent ingredients for sumptuous dishes. Not forgetting the bakery, either dry or creamy, a real joy of sweetness and color.
red desination of origin ste gi re e th on t ou ab g in rd ga For further information re site: www.siciliatrevalli.eu r ou on up it k loo se ea pl s ne of our wi WINES
THE WINE Speaking about cuisine, we cannot avoid the inevitable reference to wines, the inseparable companions of dishes and which, with expert combinations, can offer unique emotions. The great variety of Sicilian wines, composed by fullbodied reds, robust whites and intense rosé, offers multiple opportunities and possible combination with the Sicilian gastronomy. Rich and elaborate or simple and traditional dishes have always at their side the perfect wine to enhance every taste.
The cultivation of the vine and wine-making was brought to western Sicily by the Phoenicians between the eighth and seventh century b.C. The viticulture in eastern and southern Sicily spreads thanks to the Greek colonization (VII-VI century b.C.). Recognizing the importance of this land, Greek settlers called it Enotria (Pastena, 1989). Sicilian wines are considered very modern and particularly close to consumers’ tastes and preferences, giving, in recent years, greater visibility to the Sicilian enological products in the world.
CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REGOLAMENTO CE N. 1234/07 MODIFICATO DAL REGOLAMENTO CE N. 491/2009
ITALIAN WINES 2015
Sweet Wine of the Year Vin Santo di Carmignano Ris.‘07
V
Headspinning nectar
in Santo di Carmignano Riserva ’07 is an extraordinary wine. Its color is golden with copper highlights. In the glass it opens with a bouquet of extraordinary intensity and complexity, with aromas ranging from candied orange peel to dried fruit, from apricot jam to cocoa, hazelnut, even coffee, and tobacco scents like those of the best Cuban cigars. The flavor is sumptuous, generous and rich, yet perfectly elegant and balanced, an intimate and infinitely long dialogue between sugar and the vibrant acidity that sustains it. “It comes from a mass selection of trebbiano in the winery, a variety called trebbiano rosa, with a touch of San Colombano,” Beatrice Contini Bonacossi tells us. “It is an emotional wine, and we made barely 5,700 half bottles this year. It is an antique, archaic wine. Wine has been made here since 804, and Vin Santo is part of our history and that of Carmignano.” The Contini Bonacossi family came to this corner of Tuscany a century ago, and its wines have been known around the world
30 JANUARY 2015
since then. If Carmignano di Capezzana, in its various versions, is a classic, Vin Santo is a rare and precious jewel that needs time and special care. The grapes are dried for a long time. In March, they’re pressed and an extremely slow fermentation begins that lasts for years in small barrels made of various woods, ranging from oak to cherry, chestnut and mulberry. At the end, many years later, it is tasted and bottled, and perhaps a barrel that doesn’t measure up is discarded. “My sister Benedetta in the winery and my brother Vittorio in the vineyard do an amazing job, but the entire family is involved in the business and each makes a contribution.” Ancient knowledge gives us a perfect sweet wine, recognized around the world. Bottles from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s, still in excellent condition, are the proof. di M.Sab.
Tenuta di Capezzana
Carmignano (PO) | www.capezzana.it
Winery of the Year Tenuta Sette Ponti
«I
Passion and investment
t happened by accident.” Giovanna Moretti the first harvest in Feudo Maccari, between Noto will accept the award, since she took her fa- and Pachino: alberello-trained vines, mostly nero ther’s place at the head of Sette Ponti. But d’Avola. “In 2009, confident of our results, I felt if Antonio Moretti hadn’t always had a profound a strong need to change. I was grateful to Ferrini, passion for wine, and if he hadn’t been deeply cu- but I had to hear a new voice. I changed enolorious about that world, he wouldn’t have had the gist and began a new, happy period with Beppe drive to transform his production of bulk wine Caviola.” In 2012, Moretti did the first harvest into those enologic jewels that are the family’s on Etna in Passopisciaro, in the contrada Santo Tuscan wineries – Tenuta Sette Ponti and Orma Spirito: 15 hectares of extraordinary volcanic soil – and Sicilian ones – Feudo Maccari and Con- produce wines that are very territorially distinctrada Santo Sprito. In 1997, “The Vigna del tive and will certainly attract attention. And since Pallino and the Impero vineyards convinced me we’re talking about Antonio Moretti, the surpristhat we could produce quality bottles. I began to es will certainly not end here. by Eleonora Guerini work with Carlo Ferrini and we released our first labels, Crognolo and Oreno. They brought our wines onto the national and international scene. The press and the public appreciated them,” Antonio Moretti remembers. After about ten years, he bought six hectares of vineyard in Bolgheri and met with more success. In 2002, they did Castiglion Fibocchi (AR) | www.tenutasetteponti.it
Tenuta Sette Ponti
31 JANUARY 2015
ITALIAN WINES 2015
Best Buy of the Year Custoza Ca’ del Magro
An unbeatable blend
C
a’ del Magro is a soft incline lying southward of the peak of the little hill of Custoza. It is perfectly exposed to the sun’s rays and the caressing breeze from Lake Garda that finds its way among the southern slopes along the Mincio River. The Bonomo family winery owns 7 hectares of vineyard here that has always been dedicated to the production of this white. The vineyards were planted in different eras, so their age varies from the forty years of the oldest garganega to younger, different varieties. The harvest times are also different, beginning in September with early-ripening varieties, moving on to cortese in the middle of the month, and finally, when October begins, finishing up with garganega and trebbiano toscano. Custoza is the fruit of a blend of many varieties, and each of these adds another facet: the fragrance of cortese, the solidity of garganega, the character of Manzoni bianco, the elegance of chardonnay, and so on. The producer can look for the perfect balance, turning also to tai, malvasia and Riesling. Eligio and Claudio began
their work of showcasing this vineyard many years ago. When Marica, Silvia and Massimo came into the business, they achieved a leap in quality. Within a few years, Ca’ del Magro became the iconic wine of this territory. Production is in stainless steel, with only a drop of garganega aged in oak barrels, a percentage that never goes over 3-4% of the total. Until spring, the wine stays in contact with its lees. It is then bottled and kept in the cellar for a few months more. The result is a white that manages to express characteristics of richness and solidity without giving up fascinating drinkability. It is elegant, flavorful, and often marked by a curious hint of saffron. It can evolve for a long time in the wine cellars of its fans. Production amounts to about 60,000 bottles, sold at an unbeatable price. by Nicola Frasson
Monte del Frà
Sommacampagna (VR) | www.montedelfra.it
32 JANUARY 2015
ITALIAN WINES 2015
Grape-grower of the year Giuseppe Gabbas
G
The Cannonau Whisperer
is a Cannonau di Sardegna that perfectly represents the winery idea. Since the 2005 vintage, it has uninterruptedly won Tre Bicchieri recognition. With the 2011 version (which uses the word Classico, as permitted by recent rulings), the wine has won 7 awards. The wine is fragrant with Mediterranean brush and berry aromas. The flavor is warm and mouth-filling, tannins are silky, and a fresh balsamic note bestows freshness that accompanies the wine into a very long finish. Gabbas’ entire production is impressive. The tasting profile of Arbore, the other Cannonau di Sardegna Classico, the honesty of Lillovè, a simpler, but absolutely pleasant bottle, the majestic balance between sweetness and brininess in Avra (a dried raisin wine from Cannonau and other traditional grapes), the freshness and complexity of Vermentino di Sardegna Manzanile, the only white and the latest creation in casa Gabbas. by Giuseppe Carrus
iuseppe Gabbas is a reserved, quiet man. He works hard and loves to be in his vineyard, where he has been working with dedication and passion for many years. His winery, surrounded by vineyards, is in a beautiful valley at the feet of Supramonte, a few kilometers from Nuoro, in Sardinia. It has a variety of exposures and altitudes, ranging from 250 to 350 meters above sea level, on soil that is mostly granitic in origin. Gabbas owns 30 hectares of land, 20 dedicated to vineyards and 5 to olive groves. His grape-growing knowledge is amazing and this has made his winery one of the most admired and celebrated on the island of Sardinia. This is the Barbagia zone, where the prince of varieties is Cannonau. From the start, Gabbas’ idea was to produce typical and territorial Cannonaus, wines that would express the true soul of this zone of Barbagia, but were at the same time elegant, fine, cheerful, complex and wonderfully drinkable. Cannonau di Sardegna, especially here, is exactly this. The proof is in the labels produced here, starting from Dule. This bottle
Giuseppe Gabbas Nuoro | www.gabbas.it
34 JANUARY 2015
Up-and-coming Winery Tiare
T
Roberto’s feel for the land
he Tre Bicchieri award for his 2013 Sauvignon recognized Roberto Snidarcig’s constancy and dedication. When he received the notice that his cantina had been judged the best up-and-coming winery in Italy, he said, “I’m honored by this recognition. It encourages me to work even harder in my vineyard and wine cellar. All my efforts have always been aimed at searching for quality. At every harvest, I try to produce the wines that best express the extraordinary land I come from.” Right, the land. Tiare in Friulano dialect means land. It is the emblematic name that Roberto wanted to give to his own winery, confirming the intense devotion, profoundly rooted in the territory of his origins, the Collio. Roberto Snidarcig’s career began whit a stroke of luck. About thirty years ago, thanks to a small sum of money won betting on soccer scores in Italy’s popular Totocalcio, Roberto managed to buy his first hectare of land. The choice of what variety to plant was not a casual one. Roberto had already noticed a vineyard whose grapes had a particular character, producing wines
that evolved and improved significantly and surprisingly from year to year. He took some shoots, planted his vines, and from then on, began purchasing other pieces of land until he had the 10 hectares he has today.With his winery growing exponentially, helped by the comforting support of his busy wife Sandra, he now manages a dozen or so hectares for white wine production, spread around the Collio Goriziano. For reds, the grapes come from other favorable vineyards on the flatlands by the neighboring Isonzo River. Since 2007, the year when he built a new facility, the winery’s headquarters have moved back to Dolegna del Collio, a few hundred meters from the one-time frontier of Vencò, one of the roads that lead to Slovenia. Roberto’s wines were immediately appreciated and he entered the Vini d’Italia guide in 2010. Since then, quality has continued to grow, from year to year, attaining levels of absolute excellence.
Tiare - Roberto Snidarcig
Dolegna del Collio (GO) | www.tiaredoc.com
35 JANUARY 2015
ITALIAN WINES 2015
Sustainable viticulture Barone Pizzini
B
The breath of the Earth
It is an endless process of improving agricultural and winemaking techniques: you begin, but you never end. We will always continue to improve and reduce our impact on the environment. The earth is a living thing, and our wine is a product that best demonstrates the difference between one terroir and another. We just have to allow it to express its personality and its diversity in the glass.” Barone Pizzini collaborates with the Università di Milano, with the Istituto Agrario di San Michele all’Adige and with SA.TA. They are studying soils, their permeability and softness, in order to preserve biodiversity and obtain the least impact possible using machinery on the land. Bravi. We hope many producers follow their example. by M. Sab.
arone Pizzini doesn’t only produce excellent Franciacorta labels, such as Nature, which often earn Tre Bicchieri awards. The winery run by Silvano Brescianini has always been committed to sustainable viticulture. Since the start, in the early 1990s, he has proposed a model of winegrowing that respects the environment. The vineyards were converted to organic agriculture in 1998, but it was the construction of the new winemaking facilities a few years ago, a beautiful example of bioarchitecture, that confirmed that nothing was left to chance. “It’s a basic philosophy that the owners of the winery and I have always shared,” Silvano, the general manager, says. “We don’t want to consume the soil and natural resources. With Barone Pizzini, we are demonstrating that you can do business and make top quality wines without pauperizing the earth, without wasting water and by using renewable energy.
Barone Pizzini
Provaglio d’Iseo (BS) | www.baronepizzini.it
36 JANUARY 2015
A C Q U AV I T E D ’ U VA
www.bepitosolini.it
The Purity of the Grapes The Purity of the Sun The Purity of the Water
eaux de vie, distilled in Purity.
MOST,
The union of wines makes the strength B o r n in 2 01 0, t he “C ons orz io Ex port I s ol a de l So l e” aims t o int ernat ionali ze t he tr a dition of Sic ilian wine. Wit h t he acce ssio n o f five Sic ilian leading c omp a n i es in th e w in e sec t or, t he C ons orz io Ex p or t I s ol a de l So l e is able t o meet t he ch al l e n ges of a global market . C on so r zio E xport Is ola del Sole lead s a co m pl ex and det ailed bus ines s de v el op m e n t program t hat has , as p rim ar y purpos e, t he int ernat ional pr o m otion o f t he ent repreneurs hip of th e in su l ar wine.
Consorzio Export Isola del Sole
C.da S.Filippo • 98054 Furnari (Me) Italy Tel. +39 0941 840214 • Fax +39 0941 802312 www.consorzioisoladelsole.it info@consorzioisoladelsole.it
The Enologica Cassarà company S.r.l. is located at Alcamo, city of significant wine tradition, famous for the production of Alcamo White. The building is situated on the State Road 113 Km 335 + 300, in contrada Fiume. It occupies a total area of 34.850 meters squared, 3.000 of which are covered.. The major part of the grapes used are produced on the family farm : 100 hectares which are extended between 250 and 450 meters above sea level, where vines such as Catarratto, Insolia, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Merlot, Cabernet, and Shiraz are cultivated.
Established in 1958, the Cantine Amato is the perfect meeting point between quality and tradition in the international wine production. Thanks to a careful selection and processing of the grapes from the warm land of Sicily, the oenological results of the company spill, today as yesterday, all the scents and flavors of a time.
The Costantino company is located on the South East side of the Etna in Viagrande in the province of Catania. Our winery exists since 1699. Our vineyards, with a density between 5.000 and 8.000 vines per hectare, are located between 450 and 550 meters above sea level. We cultivate entirely Etna's vines, in the total respect of the territory, in order to produce with a biological certification since many years. Only grapes produced on our single land are transformed in our Doc Wine.
ADIMMAGINE:it
With 5.000 hectares of vineyards located in the Trapani and Agrigento provinces, and a production of about 10% of the total volume of wine produced in the region, the ERMES wineries are at the top of Sicilian wine production. The interests toward the foreign markets have led ERMES to invest in new production plants in Salemi, Marsala and Gibellina, and to increase new culture from Sicilian and international origins.
Cantine Amato
CA.VI.FUR (Cantina Vinicola Furnarese) was founded in 1998 by a team of winemakers and growers. While continuing the tradition of the Sicilian land, CA.VI.FUR also aligns the strategies of the international markets. In few years, CA.VI.FUR has refined its production capacity by investing in research and development, in order to always get the highest quality from its grapes.
FOCUS
Texts by William Pregentelli
SLOW SLOW GRAPES
Four Patient Growers
I
taly extends from the 47th parallel (Vetta d’Italia) to the 35th (Lampedusa), and its vineyards grow on land ranging from sea level to over 1,000 meters of altitude (such as those in Valle d’Aosta or on Etna). No wonder its grape-harvesting calendar lasts for months. The 2014 harvest in Italy began in the first days of August in the country’s hottest zones and in those territories where earlyripening varieties are grown (such as chardonnay) that are used for making Metodo Classico spumante – Franciacorta, for example. But who harvests last? Which grape-growers are obliged to wait patiently, to postpone bringing in their fruit? Here are the four Italian territories in which varieties that have a long vegetative cycle and thrive at high altitudes demand that their growers be out in the vineyard right up to the earliest cold days.
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FOCUS
Michele Perillo - IRPINIA
M
ichele Perillo is one of the key winegrowers in Irpinia, a zone in the Campania region. “I’ll begin my harvesting on Friday,” he declares (when we call him on Wednesday, November 19, 2014!). “For the moment, I’ve harvested only some coda di volpe and no more than 50 quintals of aglianico, barely 30% of the total quantity for my Taurasi. I began with the Montemarano vineyard. It has a northeastern exposure, but the vines are 30 years old and low to the ground. They are cordone speronato trained, spurred cordon, so they ripen a few days earlier because they benefit from the heat that the soil releases.” Perilli’s vineyards grow at altitudes ranging from 480 to 510 meters. Castelfranci and Montemarano are
the highest zones of the Taurasi DOCG and the entire Irpinia area. Here is where the Italian grape harvest generally ends. “I think I established a record in 2010 and in 2014. In both those years, a rainy November forced us to delay the harvest, and we finished around December 7. This year, I’m a little ahead of schedule,” Michele explains. “The vineyards up high, sheltered by the mountain, are more protected from the wind and rain than those in the valley. July was rainy and the situation was terrible until the beginning of August. Then, however, the weather improved, and 2014 will probably be a good year for Taurasi.” While we wait, we can console ourselves with his Taurasi Riserva 2006, one of the best reds tasted for the most recent edition of Vini d’Italia.
42 JANUARY 2015
Marco Fay - VALTELLINA
W
e move on to Teglio in the province of Sondrio, in the heart of the Valtellina zone of Lombardy. The vineyards of chiavennasca (the regional name for nebbiolo) line the slopes of the mountain on a long, characteristic series of terraces. Marco Fay heads one of the wineries that led the restyling of Valtellina’s wines, and he has studied carefully the effect of altitude on the wine in the glass. This year his harvest finished around October 20, without any particular difficulties. All the vineyards in this zone have southern exposures to help the vines capture the sun’s heat. The variable element is the vineyard’s altitude. Around the lower valley, at an altitude of about 350 meters above sea level, damp years generally create problems since the thin skins of nebbiolo risk damage. Further up the mountain, between 500 and 600 meters, the climate
is ideal for good grape ripening. This is the sunniest section, and temperatures are midway between the chill of the valley bottom and the daily heat at high altitudes. “Last year’s harvest was more difficult than that of 2014,” he remembers. Nebbiolo has a long annual vegetative cycle, with early germination and late maturation. Thanks to these characteristics, the rains last summer did not affect the harvest negatively. “My colleagues from Trento and Franciacorta, where they grow varieties that ripen early, like chardonnay, had many difficulties,” Marco continues. “But here in Valtellina, as in Piedmont, Nebbiolo was still immature in that period. We benefited from a warm autumn that, although it didn’t bestow a high sugar content, nevertheless gave us aromatic grapes and fresh wines for a very classic style.”.
43 JANUARY 2015
FOCUS
Michele Faro – ETNA
I
f we have to bet on the 2014 vintage, we put our money on Etna. While most of Italy’s wine world had to deal with the caprices of a particularly damp and rainy summer, Sicilian winegrowers talk about one of the best harvests in recent years. Michele Faro is the heart and soul of Pietradolce, a young winery on Etna that numbers, among its vineyards, old, ungrafted alberello-trained vines, some more than a hundred years old. “We finished our harvest on the last Sunday of October (the 26th), with the Barbagalli vineyard in contrada Rampante. It’s 900 meters above sea level, almost the highest in the denomination. There were no delays like last year’s when the late ripening of nerello mascalese obliged us to put off harvesting for a
few days.” Michele is enthusiastic about the 2014 vintage. “This was one of the most beautiful seasons in the last ten years. The summer was dry but not too dry, and September had a few gentle rains that refreshed the soil. October was hot, about 1820°C.” The Pietradolce vineyards, located on the north-eastern slope of the volcano, are emblematic Etna properties, and the work of Michele and Mario Faro is almost artisanal. “We have a small winery. Our micro-terracing doesn’t permit mechanized picking, so the harvesting can go on for a long time. It’s important that the weather is mild in autumn, as it was this year, so we can bring into our winemaking cellars the best fruit our land is capable of giving us.” 44 12
JANUARY 2015
photo by tiberio fucci
F
Elena Fucci – VULTURE
inally, we move to the Vulture zone of Basilicata. On the volcanic soil of Barile, at 600 meters above sea level, Elena Fucci cultivates her six hectares of vineyard for one of the most famous Aglianico del Vulture wines in the country, as well as abroad. “This year we harvested a week early and finished on October 25,” she tells us. For aglianico, the issues are the same as those Marco Fay described for Nebbiolo. Elena explains that “despite a problematic season, with one of the rainiest summers of the last few years, aglianico managed to stand up well thanks to its late ripening. The warm autumn created excellent conditions
for a last-minute recovery.” The Barile vineyards are among the highest in the Vulture area. They have a southern exposure, which is vital not only because it’s sunnier, but also for the nature of the land, formed by corridors dug by lava that gives the wine a memorable mineral and smoky note. “The particular meteorological conditions of this year will surely award those growers who worked their vineyards well. Great phenolic maturity, rather than technological maturity (related to sugar levels), will allow us to make more immediate wines, not too extractive, and all about elegance, minerality and finesse.”.
VERTICAL TASTING
texts by Alessandro Bocchetti
photos by Luigi Fedele ©SYMBOL
The Grand 46 JANUARY 2015
Old Man of Abruzzo Emidio Pepe celebrates 50 years of Montepulciano
VERTICAL TASTING
50 years of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
T
he beautiful, powerful Gran Sasso mountain and the Adriatic Sea are the backdrop for these gentle, green hills where Emidio Pepe’s winery has flourished for 50 years. We are here to celebrate on the terrace of this historical artisanal winery, described in 1976 by renowned Italian author Mario Soldati in “Vino al Vino” magazine. Few wineries reflect the style and the landscape of a territory like this one. Drinking a glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo evokes
images of these noble rural land, with its typical crops and its bittersweet history. The scents that come to the nose immediately suggest the ancient, meticulous procedures followed in the cellar. The grapes are still crushed by foot, in order to guarantee delicate extractions. Fermentation in cement tanks is long and natural. Shelves of aging bottles of wine line the walls of the cellars. The wines are unique and intense, and their rural verve makes them easily recognizable.
48 JANUARY 2015
VERTICAL TASTING MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 1964-2010 1964 | 93
On the nose, floral and herbacious aromas, then a subtle and delicate fruitiness (wild strawberries). The palate is full and fresh, supported by intense acidity and freshness, then fruit, notes of powdered coffee closing on good flavor and freshness. Easy to drink, light and intense. Then the nose becomes more complex and notes of toast, licorice and gentian emerge..
1975 | NG
Evolved scents on the nose, probably a high temperature vintage with hints of glutamate, earth and humus. Sweet fruit, ripe peach on the palate, featuring organic notes and the typical marker of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo: smoky essence with elements of soot. Incisive but balanced tannins. The finish is sweet, but in the glass the nose feels oxidation and the mouth turns on garlic tones. We are losing this wine.
1979 | 89
Delivers powerful Montepulciano scents to the nose, then tones of rhubarb and unpleasant casein, but also typical Mediterranean herbs. Fruity mouth, intense and vibrant with a sapid and marine character. Clear and fresh finish, aggressive on the second round between fruit and balsamic tastes. Hints of camphor.
1983 | 93
The nose releases herbs and red fruits, with an elegant touch of floral aromas. Sweet palate that finds fruity tastes, then tannins with a chalky tone. Shaggy but not unpleasant tannin. Organic and vital scents on the second round, iron and bloody taste along with lily notes.
1985 | 95
Heated notes on the nose, with very ripe fruit and hints of glutamate from a high temperature vintage. The palate is full and juicy, almost chewable. Pleasant orange note with a tannic but smooth essence balanced by seasoning. Then, complex rocky scents in a young and full palate. A great wine.
1990 | 92
Fruity notes typical of Montepulciano, followed by coffee and floral hints to the nose. Juicy and rhythmic mouth with smoky notes and a sody flavor. Dense with imperceptible and round tannins. Sapid fruity finish. Alive and fresh in the mouth.
1993 | 95
Mediterranean to the nose, between herbs and berries, fresh and full on the palate with organic, earthy and humus notes. Then ripe fruit and strong acid-
49 OTTOBRE 2014
ity. Alcohol finish, not unpleasant. Still closed and humid, smoky aroma with a chalky palate, in constant evolution. Young but very good.
1998 | 93
Dense and concentrated, excessively so, compared to the typical Pepe winery production. Intensely fruited with a lactic note. Full palate with a taste of rhubarb and fruity sweetness. Floral on the second round, between orange blossom and jasmine, full and balanced mouth.
2001 | 89
The nose is balanced and fresh, between Mediterranean herbs and fruits, orangy and intense. Young and fresh mouth, very juicy. Chalky notes, edgy but it will grow in time.
2010 | 91
Rustic nose between fruits and organic sensations of smoke and soot. Closed mouth but pleasant and fresh, rhythmic and intense. A great wine that in the years will express floral scents on a rich and powerful body. Sapid fruity finish. Alive and fresh in the mouth.
TRAVEL
texts by Francesco Seccagno
50 JANUARY 2015
Sicily Off-season 51 JANUARY 2015
TRAVEL
O
ne of the best times to visit Sicily is in winter. Rather than the allure of diving into one of the bluest waters of the Mediterranean or relaxing on the magnificent sun-kissed beaches, the island’s cold weather appeal lies in the aromas and atmosphere of its cities. Sicilian towns have proven to be laboratories of tolerance and group harmony for the many diverse peoples who, over the centuries, left indelible traces of their history. The paintings of Renato Guttoso (1912-1987) gave the world an unforgettable image of the island. They present a vivid and clear evocation of its life thanks to their colors, the products they display, and the energy of the places depicted, such as the renowned large portrait of the Vucciria, Palermo’s historic food market. Start a visit to the city with either the Vucciria or Ballarò, the other great picturesque market. These two offer a powerful first contact with robust Sicilian cucina. Osteria Ballarò is a favorite for street food fans, whether at the counter, or for takeaway, or at a table in one of its internal rooms. The Vucciria’s trattoria, Casa del Brodo, is more
potato purée, squind ink,
QQucina Qui - Catania
than 120 years old. Over time, its cooking has focused more and more on fish: be sure to try pasta with whitebait and sea urchins (pasta con la neonata e i ricci) or with grouper; sample bucatini with broccoli (broccolo arriminato, or stirred) or the trattoria’s most celebrated dish, boiled beef with saffron and potatoes. For a more modern experience, Cuci, a wine bar, is also worth a visit. Its cook-
, chopped almonds
52 JANUARY 2015
ing is centered on the market, on fish, and on an unusual choice of ingredients that are not always local, ranging from black rice with sausage and cabbage to spaghetti with swordfish roe and cherry tomatoes. Along the way, you’ll find many tempting wine labels and surprising pairings. At the Berlin Cafè, a few steps from the Politeama theater, excellent cocktails play starring roles. The locale is at the heart of the city’s night life. Turning back to Sicilian tradition, we find I Cascinari, a trattoria owned by Pietro and Vito Riccobono. They serve the truest, most time-honored Palermitano flavors, simple but perfectly prepared: boiled beef with anchovies and olives, exquisite eggplant fritters, spaghetti
Unesco Loves Pantelleria
Ungrafted alberello vines
with potatoes and caciocavallo cheese, ravioli with sardines and anchovies. And finally, visit Piccolo Napoli, a trattoria serving only fish, wonderfully run by the Corona family, just behind the Politeama theater in Borgo Vecchio. Its spaghetti with fish roe, bucatini with sardines, silver scabbardfish rollups and breaded shrimp are justly famous. On the other side of the island, below Mount Etna, is Catania. the vital economic pulse of Sicily. Central Santa Filomena is the street for new Catanesi flavors. Some of the city’s most interesting eating places are located here. Sale Art Caffè is a busy meeting place for local food enthusiasts, as is the nearby Fud, an entertaining sandwich shop specializing in premium ham-
Closer to Africa than to Italy, arid and buffeted by winds, Pantelleria has a powerful and wild soul that humans have managed to tame over the centuries. The vineyards embody the Mediterranean. Zibibbo grapes seem to be of Egyptian origin and were brought to the island by the Romans, but it was the Arabs who found that drying the variety was the secret. The terracing of the Sicilian island was the work of the Phoenicians and still today their dry walls delineate agricultural property borders. These waves of civilizations, together with the heroic work of grapegrowers, have given birth to the island’s passito, one of Italy’s most famous sweet wines. Omnipresent winds, the lack of water and African heat that dries up everything: these factors are so deeply rooted in the history of the island that the grapevine, with its traditions both in cultivation and production, has become their symbol. That explains why for the first time an agricultural practice has been recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. On November 26, 2014, the alberello method and Zibibbo vines became part of the prestigious list of cultural masterworks, which already includes Sicilian puppets. Zibibbo alberello vines are grown on terraces, often on very steep slopes, and each vine is painstakingly planted in a deep hollow to protect it from omnipresent scirocco and Greco levante winds. Today the island has between 600 and 800 hectares of vineyard, as compared to almost 6,000 in the 1950s. Farmers abandoning their lands, the subdividing of property, the high cost of labor and low yields are all causes of this decline. The hope is that the UNESCO recognition will bring the Pantelleria name around the world, incentivize new vineyards, new wineries and reinforce the team spirit required to face the challenges of marketing Passito. Today only 20% of the island’s land is under production. Viticulture is in first place, followed by the growing of capers and some olives. Until after World War II, Pantelleria was self-sufficient, with almost 20,000 inhabitants. Today the population is barely 7,000. Besides tourism, the economy of the island revolves around its Passito, which famed enologist Giacomo Tachis once described as a “Wine of toil, intelligence, passion, and culture, both technical and historic.”
53 JANUARY 2015
TRAVEL
burgers made with local meat and vegetables. More recent locales are QQucina Qui and Il Carato. The first of these showcases the innovative approach of chef Bianca Celano, a style based on passion and simplicity: her baccalĂ confit and stuffed anchovies are memorable. Carlo Sichel, after years spent working around the rest of Italy and the world, returned to Catania and reopened Il Carato. He expresses in his dishes the world of his Sicily, his deeply-felt homeland. Nothing baroque, nothing over-structured or sophisticated: two remarkable dishes are calamari ravioli with sea urchin sauce and uovo chinu, a boiled egg stuffed with a mixture of yolk and ricotta and then fried.
The sensation of eating in an old port trattoria can still be captured at Antica Marina, a traditional locale where the fish is superbly fresh and cooked in the most classic ways. A new place, the Polpetteria, is dedicated to a Sicilian favorite, polpette, or meatballs. You will find more variations on the theme than you could have imagined, ranging from those made with Bronte pistachios, to others wrapped in lemon leaves, with still others based on fish or vegetables. Premium quality cheese and cured meats are another house specialty, along with excellent bean soups cooked in the most traditional ways, and good pizza.
Tomato olive oil and lemon ice cream with wheat crisp
Fud - Catania
Book a table
Where to eat
PALERMO
PANTELLERIA
E | OSTERIA BALLARÒ | via Calascibetta, 25 tel.
U’ FRISCU CAFFÈ | Pantelleria (TP) c.da Scauri Scalo The place to go for afternoon cocktails or morning pastries. At mealtimes, cold platters with local ingredients.
091 791 0184 | www.osteriaballaro.it
CUCÌ | via S. Marchese, 9 | tel. 091 507 5057 www.cucienotecacreativa.it CASA DEL BRODO DAL DOTTORE | c.so Vittorio Emanuele, 175 | tel. 091 321 655 www.casadelbrodo.it
LA VELA | Pantelleria (TP) | c.da Scauri Scalo | Porto At tables a few steps from the sea, enjoy the freshest of fish, full of flavor and cooked simply. Don’t overlook couscous or ricotta and mint ravioli.
PICCOLO NAPOLI | p.tta Mulino a Vento, 4 tel. 091 320 431 I CASCINARI | via D’Ossuna, 43 | tel. 091 651 9804
LA NICCHIA | Pantelleria (TP) | c.da Scauri Basso, 11 tel. 0923.916 342 | www.lanicchia.it Be sure to reserve to find a table in the romantic garden. Order eggplant caponata with toasted almonds and the tuna bresaola.
BAR BERLIN | via Isidoro La Lumia, 21 tel. 091 334 398
CATANIA Q CUCINA QUI | via Umberto, 229 | tel. 095 613 0317 www.qqucinaqui.it
IL PRINCIPE E IL PIRATA | Pantelleria (TP) | Punta Karace tel. 0923 691 108| www.principeepirata.it Many think this best restaurant on the island. The menu features both seafood and locally grown products. Great quality ingredients and beautifully presented platters.
IL CARATO | via Marchese di Casalotto, 103 tel. 330 292 404 |
nn |FUD | panineria winebar | via Santa Filomena, 35
F
tel.
095 715 3518 | www.fud.it
| SALE ART CAFÈ | via Santa Filomena, 10 095 316 888 | www.ilsaleartcafe.com
PASTICCERIA KATIA | Pantelleria (TP) | lungomare Paolo Borsellino, 84 | tel. 389.8505041 | Sweets ranging from the classic bacio pantesco (ricotta and pastry) to a Zibibbo icicle and bittersweet chocolate with capers and oregano.
tel.
E | POLPETTERIA | via Santa Filomena, 48
tel.
095 715 9433 | www.polpetteria.it
E | OSTERIA ANTICA MARINA | via Pardo, 29 tel.
095 348 197 | www.anticamarina.it
Where to shop BONOMO&GIGLIO | Pantelleria (TP) | via Sotto Kuddia, 7 | tel. 0522.302888 The historic center for the island’s capers, in business since 1949. Under the brand La Nicchia, it provides many products based on capers, dried tomatoes and zibibbo gelatin. L’EMPORIO DEL GUSTO| Pantelleria (TP) | via Catania tel. 339.7556620| www.emporio-gusto.com Every kind of food and wine that’s special on the island is available in this shop. Shipping is efficient and the on-line catalog is interesting.
55 JANUARY 2015
A JEWEL IN THE EUGANEAN HILLS
Fattoria Monte Fasolo™ 35030 CINTO EUGANEO (PADOVA) ITALY - Via Monte Fasolo, 2 - tel. + 39 0429 634030 info@montefasolo.com - www.montefasolo.com Office@Awemi.co.uk www.awemi.com www.awemi.co.uk
EXTRAVERGINE
by Indra Galbo
MAKING SENSE
of Olive Oil 57 JANUARY 2015
EXTRAVERGINE
HOW TO TASTE OLIVE OIL
S
ensory analysis is the result of a complex, dynamic interaction between different physiological, sociological, cultural and economic factors. Nevertheless, each one of us uses our human sensory organs daily to judge and choose foods, clothes, work methods, and even people. The sensory analysis of olive oil has precise rules that official testing panels follow to judge extravirgin oils and select those worthy of territorial certification such as, for example – DOP status (denominazione di origine protetta). However, we can follow some of these criteria for a personal, at-home evaluation, to learn to recognize the best extra-virgin oil, or simply, to decide which one
we like the best. Extra-virgin oils are divided principally by their fruitiness (along with the pleasant sensations of the oil given by the substances that are present in healthy, fresh fruit). They can be light, medium or intense. Some cultivars (the olive varieties, of which there are many, many in Italy), give oil that is naturally sweeter or, on the other hand, pleasurably bitter and peppery. Among the organoleptic characteristics, we also find unpleasant sensations, although sometimes they are barely perceptible. These are usually caused by substances that are not present in healthy, fresh fruit but form as the olive deteriorates due to fermentation or environmental pollution.
58 JANUARY 2015
Visual analysis
Taste analysis
Consider clarity, density and color. The first indicates the age of the oil and whether it has been filtered or not. Suspended particles and deposits can be natural, but an excess shows careless work during processing.
Slurp a small amount from the glass without swallowing, taking in air as you sip to oxygenate the oil. Roll it around in the mouth. During this process, you will note the consistency and fluidity of the oil, but also flavors such as sweet, bitter or peppery. (these last two, in particular, are positive characteristics) along with other tastes such as almond, green or ripe olive, artichoke or tomato. As in all human activities, a person expressing a judgment is weighing positive and negative models already in the mind. Those who participate in Panel Test tastings are practiced and trained to memorize positive and negative olive oil models.
Olfactory analysis Pour a small amount of oil into a small, tapered glass. Warm it slightly with your hands to encourage the diffusion of volatile components, then inhale deeply with both nostrils. Repeat again after a few minutes, because the nose tends to tire quickly.
59 JANUARY 2015
AL DENTE
by Sara Bonamini
NOTHING BUT
AL DENTE
How to navigate in a universe of pasta: finding your brand, reading the box, perfecting timing and seasoning. Chefs tell all. 61 JANUARY 2015
AL DENTE
What the PACKAGE tells you Water
Protein
T
he package is very important as suitable packaging ensures proper conservation of the product and it preserves its organoleptic qualities. There are aspects that can’t be ignored:
Phosphorus
164 mg
Senatore Cappelli Saragolla ...other grains
cooking time
12,5 g
100 g
Carbohydrates
66,2 g
Potassium
Wheat types and origin
Bronze Gold Teflon
9,5 g
6,8 g
199 mg
Company Name Pasta Format extrusion
Fats
Sodium
17 mg
Iron
2,1 mg
drying
Slow Low temperature
Protein content At least 13,5%
The package should also describe the nutritional values of the product.
THE PACKAGE OF PASTA should be intact, it must not have any holes, cracks or air bubbles. CARDBOARD is better than plastic or thin papers. It allows the pasta to breathe, thus avoiding the formation of molds and it protects it from damage during transport. It is better to avoid buying pasta that is visibly broken or shattered in the pack. TRANSPARENT LABEL. Although the label does not determine the real quality of the product, it is fair to reward companies that work on the clear labels and clarity of the graphics: the origin of the grain used, drying times, the type of drawing and nutritional values must be easily visible.
Flavor and mouthfeel
W
e start by the scent of raw pasta: the scent of grain must be perceivable in the raw pasta and it must remain so even after it is baked. A high quality pasta, boiled for the correct time, must remain elastic: once released after being compressed between the thumb and forefinger, it must regain its original shape. A pleasant resistance to chewing and, at the same time, homogeneity of the grain indicate a pasta that maintains the cooking qualities in time. The most frequent flaws can be:
A STICKY PASTA. It implies a mistake in the production process (in which starch and gluten were amalgamated too fast) or the use of soft wheat semolino in the dough.
A PASTA that is undercooked inside but that tends to be overcooked externally, being easily breakable: this probably depends on the use of a poor semolino, or one that dries at excessively elevated temperatures.
ANNUAL CONSUMPTION OF PASTA PER PERSON: THE TOP THREE
28 kg ITALY
63 JANUARY 2015
12 kg
11 kg
VENEZUELA TUNISIA
1,7 kg
AL DENTE
IT’S NOT ALL IN THE TIMING
I
talians like pasta “al dente”. Some people cook it from raw like a risotto. Some prefer it “al chiodo”, meaning almost raw, as they believe it to be the best way to enhance the flavor of the corn and dressing, others treat it as if it were a legume, leaving it to soak before cooking. Someone prefer it under vacuum-seal for a long time in aromatic broths. In Milan, Elio Sironi talks about passive cooking: four minutes of boiling, then the pot is removed from the fire and the pasta left to rest in the water in which it was cooked. The result is a swollen an sticky pasta. Leaving behind experiments and tastes, the directions from manual indicate that pasta should be cooked in boiling water without lid. To obtain pasta “al dente” the cooking time must be reduced, and the same must be done if it is tossed in a pan. “The real secret to cook pasta exactly as one wants, is to monitor it closely during cooking, to touch it and taste it,” said Gennaro Esposito, who, as typical cook from the South, is a true master when it come to pasta. He reiterates the importance of the cooking point of pasta and firmly stresses that “a pasta “al dente” does not mean a raw.” If one closely observes a section, he will notice that there is a white line - Gennaro even uses two special slides in order
to perfectly control the stages of cooking - when that line is defined and still thick, it means that the pasta is not cooked; when that line is there, but it is almost imperceptible, then the pasta is al dente. The white line is the layer where the water has not yet penetrated. For the cooking of pasta in a pan there exist no precise rules. It is sufficient to moisturize it often with a tasty liquid and cover it with a lid. Even in this case the sensitivity of the cook will make the difference. All depends on the sauce or the dressing with which it must be served. Generally one should try to mix the ingredients in the shortest time possible, making sure not to cook the pasta for too long. The correct movement of the pan implies that the latter is slightly inclined in order to push the pasta and dressing downwards, and then, with a circular movement of the arm, forward, from the bottom to the top, to bring the content back towards the center and then again towards the extremity of the pan: in this way the dressing is distributed evenly all over the pasta. With a sauce based on raw eggs such as Carbonara, for example, the pasta should be tossed when the fire is turned off in order to prevent the egg from getting baked and the pasta from loosing starch,
64 SETTEMBRE 2014
tomato sauce
vegetables 7,1%
53,8%
fish
7,7% which, when there is egg, is not necessary. For a simple spaghetti with clams, however, it is betother ter to drain the pasta a few minutes before the point of optimum cooking and toss it in a pan at medium heat with the cooking water of the clams, which will be kept fairly moist and added only at the end. In this case the starch that the pasta releases binds perfectly with the sauce of the clams. Ragu and meat sauces require a brief creaming, though in some cases it is better not to do it at all. Even the pan must be the right one: made in aluminum because it is an excellent conductor of heat and it ensures an even heat distribution which consequently means an even distribution of the dressing.
meat sauce
20,6%
10,8%
Italians use a vast range of toppings on the myriad of pasta forms available. The classic favorite is tomato sauce.
Amat
rician
Carbon
ara 65 SETTEMBRE 2014
a
PAIRING LAB
by Giulia Sampognaro photos by Ilaria Morelli
RADICCHIO RISOTTO, A BITTERSWEET CLASSIC A great classic from the Veneto region, powerfully aromatic, the character of this risotto weaves together tones of bitterness, sweetness and toast that upset all our wine and food pairing rules.
A
friend to all is a friend to none, goes the saying. It’s true of life, but it’s also true in the kitchen. Turning everything upside down and creating new wine and food partners is our favorite sport. That’s what we found ourselves doing yet again, amusing but also surprising ourselves. Our group was often in disagreement from many points of view, unveiling our different notions of pleasure. Some liked it soft, others acidic. Some preferred white, others red. The aim was to find a companion for radicchio risotto, a demanding and complex dish with an infinity of flavor shadings. The first round was for bubblies, which often amplified a metallic note. Cartizze Vigna La Rivetta has the right sweet rotundity, but didn’t support the structure of the dish. Serafino Rose brought out the starchiness of the rice, while with Cavalleri, the pairing became aggressive. But when Valle d’Aosta Petite Arvine 2012 Elio Ottin was poured, the panel began to warm up. Lina Paolillo’s nose found common ground be-
66 JANUARY 2015
tween the dish and the wine, won over by an elegant bitter note and a brush stroke of tannin that lengthened the paired flavors. Unquestioned overall freshness with a hint of bitterness on the finish enlivened the pair. Tenuta I Fauri Pecorino was wonderfully soft, but struggled to keep up with the speck in the dish, while the Primosic Chardonnay blend felt too wood-laden. Being together means taking responsibility, and going deeper isn’t for everyone. Appearances can deceive. Up came a political marriage, the risotto with Tamellini’s Soave Classico. The art of diplomacy did its job, even if at the end, the pairing didn’t sizzle. But perhaps we had to have the experience of these wines to understand and appreciate Skerk’s Ograde. It broke every pattern. Its bitter notes evolved with a new, mouth-filling sweetness. Fruity sips were amplified by the saline skeleton and supported by acidity that gave length to the sensation. We found everything in this pairing, carnality and romance, unifying passion and sweetness, able to bring
Acquerello al Radicchio,
a great classic
A dish that came out of the cold, made with top-flight ingredients: Acquerello rice, a Carnaroli from Piero and Rinaldo Rondolino and radicchio di Verona IGP produced by Geofur in both early and late harvest versions. To prepare this radicchio risotto, we used only a drizzle of olive oil to toast the rice and sweat the shallots. We added a dollop of butter and a handful of Parmigiano Reggiano at the end to blend it all. A mix of prosciutto and speck added a little salt and light smoke to enhance the fragrance of the rice and the vegetal, slightly bitter tones of the radicchio. We used both early and late harvest radicchio di Verona Igp in order to have a better balance between vegetal aromas and bitter notes. For the same reason, we began with extra-virgin olive oil for the toasting (we could have omitted that, but we wanted to follow tradition) and added a pat of butter for the final blending, in Italian, the mantecatura.
even the harshest shadings of the dish into harmony. Mature love, the love of your life that makes your heart beat, the soul and body – even with a face showing signs of wear. Erste+Neue from Schiava paid the price of coming next. Mysterious alchemy was at work with Anna’s Vino, a Nerello Mascalese that managed to create a beautiful and unexpected dynamic. Certainly, this was not a classic pairing, but it astonished us with its sulfurous element and a sensation of nutmeg that seemed to dust the palate. Smoky notes embraced the pairing with
VenegazzĂš, but it was a flash in the pan. We closed gloriously with a noble choice of beer, which won our outsider prize. An artisanal unfiltered India Pale Ale from Theresianer, its citrusy character made the difference, creating a bridge between two bitter tones, the hops on one side and the radicchio on the other. The result may be uniform, but it was extremely soft and enveloping, elegant and flavorful. This was a fascinating, stimulating experience, but one thing is certain: radicchio risotto calls for character.
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PAIRING LAB
2°
1°
3° PODIUM Only wines with strong character can match such a complex dish OGRADE 2012 Skerk
9
A marvelous blend of vitovska, malvasia, sauvignon and pinot grigio, a specialty of the Carso Triestino zone. A mouth-filling and full-bodied wine, macerated on its skins, it displays notes of citrus marmalade and almonds that evolve with prolonged freshness. It upsets all our pairing ideas and is a marvel. Passion and delicacy unite in sensuous harmony. Bitter notes develop with sweetness, a pinch of savory sensation supporting it all.
JEUDI 15 VINO ROSSO 2011 Vino di Anna
8½
Splendid expression of Nerello Mascalese, a true child of Mount Etna. Spices and red fruit on the nose, along with cinnamon, pepper and ripe cherry. Fresh and mineral in the mouth, with soft, silky tannins. Curious and surprising alchemy that initially seems too acid, but reveals itself with time, displaying touching sweetness and a wonderful dynamic on the palate. The sulfurous aspect is fundamental.
VALLE D’AOSTA PETITE ARVINE 2012 Elio Ottin
8+
Elegant nose and harmonious palate, with mountain herbs, apple and citron – one of the most representative products of the region. The palate is savory, well-balanced and very clean on the finish. A pairing with great personality. A fine, elegantly bitter note offers a brushstroke of soft, measured tannin, just enough to leave space for the rest of the aromatic palate.
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outsider INDIA PALE ALE Theresianer
A long-established Trieste brewery turns out this artisanal product for experienced palates: amber body, intense nose with orange, floral notes and spices; complex palate, chewy, bitter and citrusy. Unfiltered. The pairing with India Pale Ale deserves a special mention. The beer is able to find the right match for the hops and the radicchio. Although it lingers on one note, it best enhances, with elegance and richness, the risotto’s bitter side.
INPRIMIS 2010 Piandaccoli
Here sangiovese joins with indigenous pugnitello and foglia tonda: sweet spices follow bitter licorice notes. A complex and pleasant glassful closes on notes of plum and cherry. The marriage with the risotto, contrary to our expectations, succeeds for the same reasons that won Ograde its top position on the podium: sweet notes and bitter ones, vegetal and fruity tones follow each other on nose and palate.
SOAVE CLASSICO LE BINE DE COSTIOLA 2011 Tamellini
A wine of great complexity, with intense and complex aromas ranging from overripe fruit to dried flowers, with a mineral vein that holds it all together firmly. Long, dry palate, thanks also to a good savory sensation. A diplomatic marriage that functions perfectly, but doesn’t give more of itself than required. The aromas of the risotto and the wine are pleasant together, but don’t clasp hands.
A.A. LAGO DI CALDARO CL. SUP. LEUCHTENBURG 2012 Erste+Neue
A nose of fur and ripe fruit, with fruity aromas of ripe cherries. This is a Schiava that is immediately appealing with its soft crispness and delicate finish. Immediate impact in the mouth is fantastic but in the mid-palate, ripe notes emerge that disturb the union. On the finish, it doesn’t hold up to the slightly bitter note of the radicchio.
ABRUZZO PECORINO 2013 Tenuta I Fauri
A taut and elegant nose that displays the complexity that we find on the palate. Apple and exotic fruit, but also eucalyptus honey and a varietal acidity that carries it all. Pleasant impact, but then it fades. The softness remains, but the wine should have a higher glycerol level in order to compete with the speck. A warm note on the finish in the mouth.
COLLIO CHARDONNAY GMAJNE 2011 Primosic
Splendid Tre Bicchieri 2015, this winery’s first, for its elegant and fragrant nose that leads the way to a captivating, flavorful and long mouthful. This Chardonnay displays too much wood to pair well with a risotto that has too many smoky and bitter notes of its own.
MONTELLO E COLLI ASOLANI VENEGAZZÙ SUPERIORE CAPO DI STATO 2009 Conte Loredan Gasparini
FRANCIACORTA COLLEZIONE GRANDI CRU 2008 Cavalleri
ALTA LANGA BRUT ROSÈ 2010 Enrico Serafino
CARTIZZE VIGNA LA RIVETTA Villa Sandi
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec grown in the historic vineyard of 1946 join together in a blend of great personality. Berries and spices united by a deep bond that opens slowly on the palate with dense, soft, mouth-filling tannins. They find agreement immediately in their smoky notes, appealing to the speck in the dish. They agree to each go their own way.
Monovarietal Pinot Nero in a metodo classico bubbly that displays its 30 months resting on its lees. Bread crust opens the nose, which then develops with fruit and wild flower aromas. On the palate, freshness followed by a long, mineral finish. It seems to work, even if the metallic notes aren’t totally pleasant on the palate. On the finish, the starch in the rice emerges.
A creamy and complex sparkling wine that expresses all the subtleties of Erbusco Chardonnay. A cuvée of the best vineyards that tells its story with savory and full-bodied notes of fresh fruit, vanilla and pastry. The wine gets lost in the dish. A violent pairing thanks to the acidity that lifts the fattiness but doesn’t stay balanced. A bitter note that is pleasant only at the start. Lime blossom, acacia flowers, citrus and white-fleshed fruit embrace the palate with extreme sweetness and harmony. The bubbles complete and lighten the mouthful, acid and creamy at the same time. Great roundness on the palate with a final sugar residue in the center of the tongue that keeps the pairing from expressing itself in depth. The structure of the dish is ampler than that of the wine, and there’s a mismatch between the two.
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FINE DINING
texts by Lorenzo Sandano
Just perfect In Alba, Enrico Crippa’s unforgettable Piazza Duomo
a day 71 JANUARY 2015
FINE DINING
PIAZZA DUOMO Alba (CN) piazza Risorgimento, 4 tel. 0173.366167 www.piazzaduomoalba.it/it/ AWARDS Three Forks Gambero Rosso Three Michelin Stars
B
torn in 1971 in Carate Brianza in Lombardy and trained under chefs such as Gualtiero Marchesi, Michel Bras and Ferran Adrià, Enrico Crippa wonderfully interprets what might be describes as a scientific kitchen. He is precise, careful, and attentive to every detail but at the same time able to convey emotions. His dishes become works of art as he considers form and presentation, as well as the concentration and purity of flavors. Having dinner at his Piazza Duomo restaurant leaves us speechless: it offers one of the most unforgettable culinary expressions of our country. His cuisine combines a profound knowledge of ingredients with local traditions;
modern techniques with creativity, and a touch of real talent that is always evident. Crippa’s talent is also revealed in the apparent simplicity that he is able to convey in the construction of his dishes. No element is ever out of place. He has a unique sensibility and a capacity to alternate local products and technical suggestions from abroad. Asian, French, North European, Spanish and Italian flavors all have their roles. Another typical feature of this restaurant is the respect for vegetables that, thanks to the chef ’s own farm in the Langhe, leads to the preparation of vegetable dishes that win over even those who think of themselves as carnivores.
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Creamed Langarole potatoes, quail egg, white Alba truffles and smoked Lapsang Souchong tea
the territory stars in this delicious dish, along with an intriguing and essential reference to Asia with tea that underlines, without flattening, the rich range of flavors.
Scallops,
turnip greens, pecorino sauce, sea urchins and Japanese salt plums
A brilliant culinary encounter of Southern Italy, Northern Europe and Asia. Pure harmony on the palate after a very long series of changeable, contrasting sensations: bitter, vegetal and saline tonalities, full-flavored, sweet/sour. Perfect consistency, with the unusual but effective contribution of Japanese salt plums, umeboshi.
Porcini
mushroom trilogy
Fried, golden and crisp, served with onion marinade; then porcini sponge, intense and fragrant, with whipped butter and raw mushroom shavings; and finally, diced, oil-preserved porcini served in mushroom oil, an aromatic oil obtained from the porcino itself. A memorable trio.atto.
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FINE DINING
Risotto
with porcini mushrooms, cooked and raw, and anise
a dish that bewitched us with its perfect handling of anise. Paired with the porcini, it opened new taste frontiers.
Kiefer Squid
a homage to the German artist Anselm Kiefer: a single calamaro, expertly grilled, served in its ink: with a black sauce of olives, capers and garden vegetables: important taste and color appeal on a white plate, a striking design at the end of the tasting. 74 JANUARY 2015
MIXOLOGY by
Giuseppe Carrus
P
atrick Pistolesi is an Irish-Italian who has traveled a lot, learning something from each place even though he particularly loves France. A barman since he was 17 years old, he has successfully represented Italy in various worldwide competitions. He says: “I am convinced that the high quality of bar service depends on technique, but there’s another aspect,too. It is important that the drink is good and prepared well, but the real difference is made by hospitality. Whoever comes to my bar has to feel comfortable in a peaceful environment where people are at ease. That’s why I like to be seen more as an innkeeper than a barman.” He goes on, “I believe that the mixed-drink world is in a wonderful period. I always thought this moment would come, even when flair became popular and cocktails were just drinks to have in pubs or discos. Now the important thing is not to go too far. I wouldn’t like the opposite to happen, for example if a client asks for a simple spritz he is looked down on, as if he is not an expert enough for an American Bar. This can happen when the young people starting out do not have the right attitude”. Soon we tell Patrick to decide our next drink for us, as most clients do, and he prepares the cocktail that we are presenting this month. One sip and we are immediately transported to a neighborhood of Paris, and it’s no accident that among the ingredients is red wine. But there is also a Mediterranean touch, an American element and a hint of London. In short, the drink embodies all of Patrick’s experiences around the world.
5me Arrondissement INGREDIENTS: 50 ml. Gin Beefeater 24 50 ml. Saint Germain sambuco liquor 25 ml. Fresh lemon juice 20 ml. Simple syrup Egg white Red wine PREPARATION: Put all the ingredients but wine in a shaker ful of ice. Shake for a few minutes, and pour into a glass full of ice. Gently add the red wine in such a way that it remains on the surface (a technique called that was developed in the 19th century).
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The Gin Corner c/o Hotel Adriano via di Pallacorda, 2 00186 Roma tel: +39 06 68802451 mail: booking@thegincorner
Participating Wineries TOUR 2014/2015 Agricole Gussalli Beretta Allegrini Baglio di Pianetto Barone Pizzini Bibbiano Bolla Bortolomiol Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano Cantina Tollo Cantine Due Palme Casalfarneto Castello di Cigognola Castorani Cavicchioli U. & Figli Cesari Cherri d’Acquaviva Colle Massari Còlpetrone Cottanera Cusumano De Stefani Di Majo Norante Falesco Fattoria del Cerro Felline Feudo Maccari Firriato Gaja Gruppo La Vis Jermann La Guardiense La Raia
Le Monde Leone de Castris Librandi Livon Lunae Bosoni Marchesi di Barolo Masi Medici Ermete & Figli Nals Margreid Ottella Poggio al Tesoro Poggio Bonelli Ruggeri San Felice San Patrignano San Salvatore Santa Margherita Wine Group Settesoli Tenuta Carretta Tenuta Sette Ponti Tenute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari Tenute di Genagricola Tenute Eméra Tenute Rubino Torrevento Valle Reale Varvaglione Velenosi Villa Medoro Villa Sandi Volpe Pasini Zonin
PER INFO: WORLDTOUR@GAMBEROSSO.IT
TM
VINO & TERRITORIO
WINE
of the month
Rosso di Montepulciano 2013
RESTAURANT
30.000 bottles ex-cellar price: euros 5.20
of the month
The first off-grid winery in the world, capable of autonomously supplying its own water and electricity, Michele Manelli’s bottles can demonstrate their Carbon Footprint, a process that monitors energy consumed along the production process, and this too is a first. The company is in the forefront of environmental sustainability and work carried out in recent years proves it. The winery’s 50 hectares of vineyards, divided into three sections, observe only organic and biodynamic methods. Selected yeasts, tannins and sulphites are not added to the wines, in order to ensure that the grapes, mainly prugnolo gentile, a local clone of Sangiovese, best express themselves, embodying all the characteristics of the territory. In Rosso di Montepulciano ‘13, some canaiolo nero and merlot are included; so the nose is surprised by the impact of black fruit, plum and blueberry, followed by spicy notes resembling cinnamon and fresh pepper. Soft and smooth, it has a subtle texture and closes sweetly and without roughness.
DOPOLAVORO LA FOCE s.da della Vittoria 90 53100, Pienza (SI) www.dopolavorolafoce.it A few kilometers from Montalcino, on the hills between Pienza and Chianciano, in the heart of Val d’Orcia, recognized world heritage by UNESCO in 2004, are the possessions of the Origo family, who in the ‘20s founded a modern agricultural company, respectful of the workers for whom schools, nurseries, canteens and leisure centers were built. In what used to be the recreational center, today there is a gastronomic project in 360 degrees that aims to revive the concept of a contemporary Tuscan “trattoria”: wide open spaces, restaurant, bar, cafe, stand for a quick beer along the country road, in a structure that shows a successful architectural recovery. An area of great charm that offers a menu that is inspired to the classics of Tuscan tradition such as the flan of seasonal vegetables with crispy bacon and creamy pecorino, pork liver with pan brioche and garlic sauce, gnocchi with Verna flour and white lamb ragù and crispy artichokes, pici with garlic, wild boar “in salmi”, braised beef cheek and the unavoidable grilled meat. Everything is accompanied by the red house wine or one may choose from a good selection of labels, especially local references, and some craft beer.
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IL SOAVE ORIGIN - STYLE - VALUES
CHARLEY FAZIO - FOTOGRAFIA - www.charleyfazio.it
The Essence of Elegance
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