year 21 - number 122 - october 2018 - gamberorosso.it
WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
TRE BICCHIERI 2019 447 EMOTIONS READY TO BE UNCORKED PIZZERIA REVOLUTION The pizzeria concept is changing. Evolution, revolution or ordinary madness?
RECIPE Fettucine, porcini, sweetbreads from Sora Maria e Arcangelo, the roman countryside
WINE OF THE MONTH Barolo Ginestra Riserva '11, Cascina Chicco: subtle, elegant, classy
SOMMARIO 4
year 21 - number 122 - october 2018 - gamberorosso.it
WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
8 12 14 18 22 28 38
TRE BICCHIERI 2019 447 EMOTIONS READY TO BE UNCORKED PIZZERIA REVOLUTION The pizzeria concept is changing. Evolution, revolution or ordinary madness?
8
RECIPE Fettucine, porcini, sweetbreads from Sora Maria e Arcangelo, the roman countryside
From vigneron to multinational companies The latest metamorphosis of Italian wine Food News Wine News Wine of the month Italian Wines 2019 - Guide minutes Italian Wines 2019 - The complete list of Tre Bicchieri Pizzeria revolution. There’s more beyond pies The roman countryside’s recipe: Fettuccine, porcini, sweetbreads by Sora Maria e Arcangelo
WINE OF THE MONTH Barolo Ginestra Riserva '11, Cascina Chicco: subtle, elegant, classy
447
11
18 28
38
From vigneron to multinational companies The latest metamorphosis of Italian wine The history of Italian wine is a peasant one, as befits a country with a long and consolidated rural tradition, which only after WWII began its metamorphosis towards a more modern future. In our peninsula, clergy and blue blood have shown greater interest in power and art, spending their time between wars and patronage and leaving the task of producing food and wine to servants and sharecroppers. Without the pride and commercial foresight shown by kings, princes and transalpine dukes and without the dedication and minuteness of the Benedictine and Cistercian monks of Burgundy or Champagne, our wines have remained for centuries confined to simple local and daily consumption products. Instead, the great French wines began to become luxury products, causing prices to rise and creating widespread wellbeing for the entire sector. Finally with the advance of modernization and knowledge in agriculture too, considered the Cinderella of our country, the organoleptic quality of the Made in Italy brand has risen to reach very high standards, able to compete with anyone. Furthermore, the transportation revolution and the speeding up of information and communication have made the globe a smaller place. So our wines have started, thanks to our emigrants, to travel the world and make themselves known. In the last twenty years, our most popular territories and our most loved grape varieties have become true international must-haves. Our great wines have positioned themselves at the highest levels, recovering a temporal (and cultural) gap of at least a century and a half towards their French cousins beyond the Alps. Today, following the whole supply chain of terroir wines and rare wines, driven by the great Bordeaux and the great Burgundy wines, even the best Italian wines (ranging from Tuscany Brunello di Montalcino and Bolgheri and from Piedmont Barolo and Barbaresco) have become luxury products, affecting a world that until a few years ago had always considered them as simple agricultural products, without ever grasping their true cultural and social nature. With the advent, in the sleepy Italy of wine, of the first private investors and large international investment funds - that as a result of the increase in price of the best known bottles have become mere observers or subs to front-running protagonists of our panorama - in a few years the prices of the most suitable land rose. If we look back and think about how much agricultural land - even viticultural - has been made buildable by policies without vision, we realize how far we've come. Today, one hectare of land in Montalcino or in the Barolo area is worth from 500 thousand to 3 million euro, knowing full well that the 5 million will be surpassed soon. This changes the situation: the production of wine passes from the hands of peasants-winemakers to those of multinationals and investors. Will this change the taste of our best reds, created by centuries of wisdom of the earth? We trust in everyone's common sense. — Gianni Fabrizio
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Savour the landscape, too. Tenute SalvaTerra has been awarded the international “Best of Wine Tourism” award 2018 for the “Architecture and Landscapes” category. Architecture, landscape and wine are intricately linked, as all three are the result of human thought and work. This time, we have not won recognition for our wines, but for our commitment to nurturing and promoting a major wine region and its produce.
The stunning natural beauty of Valpolicella awaits you.
NEWS
FAUCHON’S FIRST GOURMET HOTEL IN PARIS. THE HISTORIC FRENCH DELI LAUNCHES INTO HOSPITALITY
In Paris, Fauchon is among the most celebrated gastronomic boutiques. With a long history, the brand was founded in 1886 by greengrocer Auguste Fauchon, when the epicerie of place de la Madeleine began to serve delicatessen. And over time Fauchon has become an exclusive brand, the Tiffany of food as it’s commonly referred to: with 75 stores worldwide and solid roots in the Asian market, the company is now in the hands of Michel Ducros, an almost 70-year-old relator who in 1998 took the reins of the historical activity aiming to internationalization. Now the challenge is differentiation of the offer, exploring the hospitality business. Just over a month ago, those who pass by 4, Boulevard de Malerbes, can admire the complex: here, the first 5-star hotel by Fauchon is a completely renovated sumptuous building of the second half of the 19th century. A strategy of positioning on the hotel market, flying the flag of The Leading Hotels of the World, launching itself firmly in the hospitality sector, realizing a project developed starting in 2016 with the support of Esprit de France, a 49% partner and fundamental in conferring the necessary know-how to the company (the idea is to open twenty hotels in the next decade, from Kyoto to Doha, already in blueprint, including in the United States and Brazil). Fauchon, on the other hand, promises to offer guests the most gourmet stay possible, from breakfast to room service, to fine menus, for sale in the in-house store and as a welcome to customers. But the brand new hotel - 54 rooms and 11 suites - also includes a 150-seat café with a terrace overlooking the square (Grand Café Fauchon), a private dining room reserved for hotel guests and a tea garden. And for those who can’t afford the luxury of staying in such an exclusive structure, the experience at the Grand Café of the hotel is definitely accessible, especially at lunch time, thanks to the menu formulas at reasonable prices, with the ability of condensing over 130 years of the history of the brand.
GAMBERO ROSSO
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OCTOBER 2018
TOYOSU: THE NEW TOKYO FISH MARKET. AFTER OVER 80 YEARS TSUKIJI RETIRES
Marked by years of announcements and delays, the fate of the Tokyo fish market - among the most famous in the world - has finally found a stable configuration. Visited every year by tens of thousands of tourists, the Tsukiji fish market was above all an open window on a very important element of Japanese gastronomic culture and national economy, and everyone in the city considered it an institution. For this reason the first rumors about the move from the historic structure (now several years ago, the decision dates back to 2001, when the space of Toyosu was first identified) have solicited the interest of public opinion, which has followed by the events of the highly frequented market, which with its 671 authorized vendors, distributed thus far over 23 hectares, and also the largest wholesale fish market in the world (maintaining its record intact). Dedicated in the cause of the Olympics, which Tokyo will host in 2020, the Tuskiji market has always been
Verdicchio by nature, organic by culture We have guarded for 35 years our vineyards carefully, rigorously and with dedication in the Verdicchio Classico area. And we have harvested for 35 years the grapes for our Organic Casal di Serra, trademark of our land.
Umani Ronchi - Via Adriatica 12 - 60027 Osimo (AN) ITALIA - Tel. +39 071 7108019 www.umanironchi.com
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013
NEWS
SOY COMIDA PERFECTA. ONLY PERFECT FOOD FOR THE SPANISH STARTUP AGAINST FOOD WASTE
“Only perfect food”. This is the unequivocal name of the startup against food waste created by Desiree Taboada, long committed to raising awareness on major environmental issues, which together with partner Natalia Escolà created an online store to recover food leftovers. Fruit with irregular shapes or not very appealing, boxes of cereal a bit dented or bottles of drinks with the label upside down: many products that remain unsold in supermarkets or that don’t even make it to the shelf because of aesthetics. That’s precisely what Desiree wants to restore value to, as well as those still edible even after expiry. As long as healthy and tasty. A real market that relies on a constantly expanding network of suppliers, and that takes care of home delivery in different neighborhoods of Barcelona and Castelldefels, currently the only two locations where the service is available, even if Desiree said she wants to expand as soon as possible, In Spain but also to other European countries. Keyword: transparency. Through the website - or the app - consumers can get all the necessary details for the purchase, from the ingredients to expiration date. And also the kind of damage that the food has suffered. An original idea first approached at Castelldefels, with only 40 participating suppliers, and later in Barcelona, “the feedback from the public was positive from the onset, we often receive messages of thanks and even advice on how to improve the service”.
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the symbol of the symbiotic relationship between Japanese cuisine and the ocean: frequented by chefs and restaurateurs of the city every morning, many renowned international chefs have been bewitched by the atmosphere that until a few days ago buzzed among the stalls. In numbers, the story of Tsukiji is equally impressive: over 500 species of fish are sold daily, including very expensive sushi cuts, 700 thousand tons of product sold each year, more than 12 million euro in daily turnover. After more than 80 years, however, the historic structure has had its day, and last October 6th definitively closed its doors. Behind the decision is also the desire to modernize the spaces from an architectural and technological point of view. Two buildings of the new marketplace citadel, one dedicated to the sea - that visitors will be able to observe only from the raised balconies on the second floor - the other to fruit and vegetables. Around there will be fish restaurants and various gastronomic shops.
Dr. Lorenzo Fonzone Caccese
AZIENDA AGRICOLA FONZONE CACCESE Località Scorzagalline | Paternopoli AV ITALY
fonzone.it cfdg
NEWS
JAPAN. ITALY GAINS POSITIONS. STARACE: “WE’RE READY TO FACE COMPETITION”
“Italy is ready to play its part in view of the total opening of the Japanese market, thanks to the free trade agreement, when the bottles of wine will be among the first products to have tariffs cuts”. This was stated by Giorgio Starace, Italian ambassador to Japan, who drew up an initial evaluation of the promotional campaign ‘Six thousand years of Italian wine’, under way in several cities of Japan. A name started from the discovery in 2017, in Sicily, on Monte Kronio (Sciacca) of ancient wine jars. “We are growing more and more” added Starace “and we intend to take a big share of this market because the quality of Italian wines is second to none”. The numbers for the first half of 2018 are positive: the value of Italian wine exports in Japan has grown by 14.2%, at a faster rate than the competition, after +10.2% in 2017. Italy, in particular, reached Chile in second place among the exporting countries in Japan, with 16.1% of the market share, approaching France, which leads the ranking with over 40%. On the Japanese market, Italian wine has the possibility to do even better, since it is considered a wine for connoisseurs and is less available at the popular level. In any case, the interest in the promotional campaign is increasing, as pointed out by Aristide Martellini, director of the exchange promotion office of the Italian Embassy, with 68 new official events recorded on the whole archipelago this year and expectations of further development in view of the Tokyo Olympics in 2020. “Italy,” Starace concluded “has the past, the richness of the grapes: something our competitors cannot show for, we are very ambitious and willing to fight hard with the competition”
ITALIAN WINES ARE THE BEST KNOWN IN THE USA AFTER CALIFORNIAN WINES 77% of American enthusiasts know Italian wines, which are bought by almost 4 out of 10 consumers (38%). This is revealed by a survey carried out by Wine Intelligence for Consorzio Valpolicella wines (a sample of 4,000 wine consumers in the United States) in which it’s evident that Italian wine popularity is second only to Californian products, yet higher than French ones, which register a 75% knowledge, with 31% consumption. In this special ranking of fame follow slosely Spain, other wine regions in the US, Australia, Argentina and Chile. “A deep and continuous survey on US consumers” as noted by the director of the consortium, Olga Bussinello, that served to understand the strengths and weaknesses of a denomination which is the main non-EU market, on which the Veronese wines intend to invest again: “In mid-October we will be in Chicago and Washington with the celebratory tour for 50th anniversary of the Doc”. The Dop Valpolicella and Amarone, according to the study, are better known by 62% of connoisseurs, who make up 31% of American wine consumers; followed by mid-range (31%), while the two PDOs are almost unknown among basic and occasional consumers (7%).
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NEWS
WINE OF THE MONTH BAROLO GINESTRA RIS. ‘11 CASCINA CHICCO via Valentino, 14
- 12043 Canale (CN)
cascinachicco.com bottles 3000 - ex-cellar price: 32 euros + taxes For three generations the Faccenda family have been leaders among Roero’s winemakers. Today Cascina Chicco has various vineyards throughout the area, in the municipalities of Canale, Castellinaldo, Castagnito and Vezza d’Alba, as well as five hectares in Monforte d’Alba, between the MGAs (geographic mentions) of Castelletto and Ginestra. The latter give rise to two Barolos, their Rocche di Castelletto and their Ginestra Riserva. Chicco’s selection are traditionally styled, exhibiting good texture and rich in fruit. Their 2011 Barolo Ginestra Riserva enchants. It’s a subtle, elegant wine with flowery fragrances and notes of orange peel. On the palate it proves caressing, long and pervasive.
WEST AMERICA. THE “SMOKE TAINT” OF WINE WORRIES WINE PRODUCERS There are not only victims, or the huge damage to homes and businesses among the effects of the fires recorded last year between California, Oregon and British Columbia. For the wine industry of the west coast of North America the main problem, as often happens in these cases, and as they know well in faraway Australia, is related to the smell of smoke in the wine. The so-called “smoke taint” (stain or smoke trail) scares wine producers, who are in damage control mode. Several specialized laboratories have been involved by the associations of local producers in an operation to detect potentially harmful compounds and contaminants. The problem is of technical nature. Because if it’s true that the tools available make it possible to detect chemical markers associated with smoke scents, which can occur as non-volatile precursors but also as volatile compounds, it’s equally true that there is no precise knowledge of the minimum levels that can determine, especially after long aging in wood, the typical smell of smoke in the wine. Obviously, the problem becomes commercial, because the large wineries that buy grapes from winemakers want to be sure to avoid that the majority of the grapes come from areas affected by fires. After fermentation, this will determine the hated smoke taint. There are cases of grape bushels that have been rejected. What Americans lack, as local media reports, is a reference base for these potentially contaminating compounds. Australia, in this field, has more experience.
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Italy Proud to produce unique Puglian wines since five generations
GAMBERO ROSSO X TENUTE SALVATERRA
Tenute SalvaTerra 600 hectares of vineyards in the most representative areas of Veneto, first of all Valpolicella, up to Lake Garda and the Euganean Hills. Few labels offered, mostly dedicated to traditional wines, interpreted without chasing power at all costs and which include the elegant Amarone della Valpolicella, fruity Valpolicella Ripasso or the pleasant Prosecco and Pinot Grigio. SalvaTerra was born a few years ago, by the will of the Furia brothers and a group of investors who strongly believed in the value of Valpolicella and its wines. Today the company is certainly one of the most interesting of the last few decades, thanks to an extensive vineyard park and a control room with very clear ideas on what can be perfected, both in the classical area and in the eastern sector. There are many acquired vineyards, while the cellar and the offices are located in the splendid setting of Villa Giona in Cengia, dating back to the 16th century, in San Pietro in Cariano. Defining the SalvaTerra image is the logo represented by soil, stone and iron, the three elements that best express the characteristics of this area and its potential. The soil, characterized by marl, hosts the vineyards and makes this area extremely popular. The stone is Prun present in the subsoil and used to build the blocks forming the Arena in Verona. It’s precisely this Prun stone that gives its name to the company’s flagship wine, Amarone Classico Riserva Cave di Prun. And finally iron, the element that makes up the Tenute SalvaTerra brand and that expresses craftsmanship and
Defining the SalvaTerra image is the logo represented by soil, stone and iron, the three elements that best express the characteristics of this area and its potential
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GAMBERO ROSSO X TENUTE SALVATERRA
1. Vineyard Tenuta di Prun in the Negrar valley 2. The tasting room with vineyard views at the San Pietro in Cariano location 3. The wine cellar
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013
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manual knowledge. But SalvaTerra is also an expression of sustainability. An example is the think tank for the sustainable future organized between the winery and Gambero Rosso on May 18th for the first SalvaTerra Day. “Wine contains many aspects of today’s reality” was the commentary by Roberto Giacobone on the Tenute SalvaTerra “but too often it’s conservative and closed in itself, so we thought about a day to review - where necessary - the phases that characterize it”. “Our name” echoed CEO of the SalvaTerra Group, Paolo Fontana, “brings with it responsibilities towards the territory and being Italian in general. Our business model starts from a very simple concept: territory, people, wine. Within these worlds there are many elements that must come into connection: should they ever became one big circle we will have reached our goal, but in the meantime we’re on the journey: the future is not eternal”. A project that stems from the need to rethink wine in a new, more current and in line with changes in society; to consider nature as a value to produce in an authentic way and protect biodiversity of the territory. This is the goal of SalvaTerra: safeguarding the landscape with a well thought out viticulture.
“Our name brings with it responsibilities towards the territory and being Italian in general. Our business model starts from a very simple concept: territory, people, wine”
Tenute SalvaTerra San Pietro in Cariano - Verona tenutesalvaterra.it
GAMBERO ROSSO
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ITALIAN WINES 2019
ITALIAN WINES 2019 THE TOP TIER
Tre Bicchieri
447
awarded labels
1 3 6 33 139 265
11
Spumante Rosé
Tre Bicchieri over 150 euro
Rosé Wines
102 7
TreBicchieriVerdi
(of which
are biodynamic)
92
Dessert Wines Spumante White White Wines
54
new entries
convenience champions
Red Wines
75 17
under 15 euro under 10 euro
WINES RANGING FROM VERY GOOD TO THE BEST IN TASTINGS FINALI
1.643 Due Bicchieri Reds
THE PLUS LABEL
WINES RANGING FROM VERY GOOD TO EXCELLENT
6.254 Due Bicchieri GOOD WINES
3.199 Un Bicchiere GAMBERO ROSSO
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Sannio Taburno Falanghina Libero 2007 Fontanavecchia
OCTOBER 2018
ITALIAN WINES 2019
GUIDE MINUTES
2.530 22.100 129 40mila 70
This is the most authoritative publication in the world of wine. The evaluations, scores and descriptions of the wineries and tasting notes of Italian Wines for the past 32 years have narrated and contributed to the growth of Italian oenology around the world. The guide is translated into 4 languages.
producers wines
new entries
tasted wines Italian Wines 2019 pag. 1032 - price 30 € available for purchase in bookstores, newsstands and at gamberorosso.it
wine tasters
11Special Awards
The special prizes are a condensation of Italian Wines: these are 11 awards that betray spirit with which the 70 authors of the guide and the curators approached the huge tasting work that preceded publication. The prizes go to the best wines of all types, but there are prizes like the one bestowed to the Winery of the Year that give recognition to a particularly brilliant accomplishment in a longer period of time... And equally the best Quality-Price ratio award, or the one celebrating the Winemaker of the Year, the Emerging Cellar, which is chosen among those that debut in the exclusive Tre Bicchieri Club. Finally, two prizes which we hold dear are those for Sustainable Viticulture and the Solidarity Project.
The White of the Year Capo Martino ’16 - Jermann
The Rosé of the Year Valtènesi Chiaretto Molmenti ’15 - Costaripa
The extraordinary fact is not that Jermann is the wine awarded our White of the Year title, but that the award-winning wine is the Capo Martino, an elegant blend of Friulian, ribolla gialla, Malvasia and Picolit that Silvio ages in Slavonian oak barrels 750 liters capacity for over a year. The prize is deserved because the wine this year has wiped out the competition of the other two great whites of the brand: Vintage Tunina and the Were... dreams, also whites with extraordinary finesse, freshness and complexity. But the Capo Martino ‘16 is an unforgettable wine, of infinite persistence.
We loved this Rosé so much that it urged us to set up a new Special Award. If rosés are an emerging category, do taste Momenti ‘15: a Rosé that comes out three years after the harvest, and that is able to overthrow the clichés of the type. It has a pale yet bright pink color, it’s fresh on the palate, but it immediately shows unexpected qualities of depth, complexity, longevity. An applause to Mattia Vezzola who was able to enhance a valuable terroir such as Valtènesi with its most typical grape, the groppello.
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The Red of the Year Brunello di Montalcino Duelecci Ovest Ris. ’12 - Tenuta di Sesta 1
A Brunello red wine of sumptuous elegance, in a certainly not unforgettable vintage for Montalcino. The 2012 version opens on warm hues of black cherry in spirit, tanning spices and mustard, with a toasted touch that’s more evident on the palate: caressing and tasty, the wine is still contracted in the last portion for the severe tannic mouthfeel. But there’s incredible depth.
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ITALIAN WINES 2019
11Special Awards The Bubbles of the Year Franciacorta Nature 61 ’11 Guido Berlucchi & C.
Dessert Wine of the Year Piemonte Moscato Passito La bella Estate ’16 - Vite Colte
If today we’re talking about Franciacorta it’s because in 1961 the first bottles of “biting wine” of this territory were born, today the epicenter of the classic Italian sparkling wine, by Franco Ziliani who has now passed the helm to his sons Arturo, Paolo and Cristina. Nature 61 ‘11 is a Franciacorta of extraordinary freshness, pleasantness and minerality that makes the denomination an honor. And it’s surrounded by other labels that made it really difficult to choose the winner. What to say? Keep up the great work!
Awarding a sweet wine from a winery that has become famous over the years for its excellent red wines - Barbera and Barolo above all - may seem a rather eccentric choice. But if you taste La Bella Estate ‘16 that Piero Quadrumolo - president of Vine Colte - has proposed to us, you can’t but agree with us. In a time of little general attention to sweet wines, La Bella Estate bears witness to the passion of Piedmontese winemakers for this grape and perhaps will be able to induce a reversal of the market trend. Simply delicious.
Best Quality/Price Ratio A. A. Lago di Caldaro Classico Superiore Quintessenz ’17 - Cantina di Caldaro
Winemaker of the Year Francesco Cambria
Emerging Cellar Antonella Corda
Maybe he doesn’t have callused hands and perpetually muddy boots as one would expect from a true vigneron, but we wanted to reward Francesco Cambria as a Winemaker of the Year because years ago he made an important choice, to sacrifice a brilliant career as an attorney to return to the family business, the Cottanera, on Mount Etna, next to his sister Mariangela, brother Emanuele and uncle Enzo. His commitment in the vineyard and in the cellar is complete, and he has contributed to bringing the company founded by his father Guglielmo to being one of the most successful on Etna and of Sicily on an international level. Not to mention the quality of the wines...
“Di Madre in Vigna” we read on the label, beautiful sentence that bears witness to the generational transition between two women. Antonella is part of the well-known Argiolas family of Serdiana who for some years, strong in the wine-making tradition linked to her mother, decided to undertake the production of personal labels. Her Cannonau di Sardegna is fresh, graceful and very drinkable: on the nose are hints of small fruits and shades of pink, spicy touches that anticipate a sip with light tannin, exemplary acidity and depth thanks to a light sapid vein. It really deserves a Special Award.
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We are in love with South Tyrole wines based on schiava, savory and fragrant, never banal. Flagship of the category is the “quintessential” Lake Caldaro of the winery directed by Christian Sinn, which today is the largest in the province of Bolzano, with a package of first level vineyards led by about 500 members. From old vines that grow between 200 and 500 meters above sea level with southern exposure, the Lake of Caldaro Classico Superiore Quintessenz ‘17 lends the nose intense fruity notes, perfectly expressed in the solid and fragrant palate, a wine that’s sold at a really incredible price for its level.
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Winery of the Year Ferrari 6
The third generation of Lunelli driving this historic winery is on fire. In Trento we have a range of sparkling wines of stratospheric level, which the Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore represents worthily as a flagship wine, even if its co-stars are increasingly “titled”. But the Lunelli are demonstrating in Montefalco with the Tenuta Castelbuono and in Tuscany with Podernovo, as well as with the Trento Tenuta Margon, not only specialists in sparkling wine, but having a sensitivity that allows to better interpret different terroirs and of great value.
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ITALIAN WINES 2019
VINTAGE OF THE WINES AWARDED WITH THE TRE BICCHIERI 2019
Sustainable Viticulture Torrevento 10
Torrevento by Francesco Liantonio, a leading winery in the Castel del Monte denomination, has the majority of its vineyards in the Alta Murgia National Park, located on the calcareous karstic rocky soil that characterizes these areas. The range of its wines has been excellent for years, but this award highlights the commitment of a lifetime of Francesco Liantonio for the nature of this beautiful corner of Italy and especially for the well-being of those who live in this area and those who work in his vineyards. A commitment that future generations will also enjoy.
Solidarity Project San Patrignano 11
Speaking of San Patrignano, there is always the risk of falling into the obvious, but the history of the rehab community founded by Vincenzo Muccioli and supported today by the Moratti family now at the helm is a collective asset. Here 1,300 people, almost all young men, give a new meaning to their lives through study and work in various fields, among which the winery that offers a series of excellent quality labels developed from the grapes of the 110 hectares of vineyards on the property. A new environmental culture that’s also sustainable is built daily through organic farming, paying attention to the protection of the environment, taking care of animals as well as of people. A due award.
2017 2016 2015 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 2009 2008 without vintage GAMBERO ROSSO
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83 130 107 40 44 17 12 3 3 3 3 4 1 labels
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labels labels labels
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ITALIAN WINES 2019
ITALIAN WINES 2019 F.LLI FACCHINO – BARBERA DEL M.TO ’16 TENUTA IL FALCHETTO – MOSCATO D’ASTI CANELLI CIOMBO ’17 BENITO FAVARO – ERBALUCE DI CALUSO 13 MESI ’16 GIACOMO FENOCCHIO – BAROLO BUSSIA 90 DÌ RIS. ’12 ROBERTO FERRARIS – NIZZA LIBERTA ’15 GAGGINO – OVADA CONVIVIO ’16 GAJA – BARBARESCO SORÌ TILDIN ’15 ETTORE GERMANO – BAROLO LAZZARITO RIS. ’12 BRUNO GIACOSA – BAROLO FALLETTO V. LE ROCCHE RIS. ’12 CARLO GIACOSA – BARBARESCO MONTEFICO ’15 IOPPA – GHEMME BALSINA ’13 ISOLABELLA DELLA CROCE – NIZZA AUGUSTA ’14 MARCALBERTO – MARCALBERTO EXTRA BRUT MILLESIMO2MILA13 M. CL. ’13 MARCHESI DI BAROLO – BAROLO CANNUBI ’14 GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO E FIGLIO – BAROLO MONPRIVATO ’13 VIGNETI MASSA – DERTHONA STERPI ’16 MONCHIERO CARBONE – ROERO ARNEIS CECU D’LA BIUNDA ’17 MONTALBERA – BARBERA D’ASTI NUDA ’15 FIORENZO NADA – BARBARESCO MONTARIBALDI ’14 NEGRETTI – BAROLO BRICCO AMBROGIO ’14 PODERI E CANTINE ODDERO – BAROLO BUSSIA V. MONDOCA RIS. ’12 TENUTA OLIM BAUDA – NIZZA ’15 PICO MACCARIO – BARBERA D’ASTI LAVIGNONE ’17 PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO – BARBARESCO ASILI RIS. ’13 LA RAIA – GAVI V. DELLA MADONNINA RIS. ’16 ROAGNA – BARBARESCO ASILI V. VITI ’13 BRUNO ROCCA – BARBARESCO CURRÀ RIS. ’12 GIOVANNI ROSSO – BAROLO VIGNA RIONDA ESTER CANALE ROSSO ’14 PAOLO SCAVINO – BAROLO NOVANTESIMO RIS. ’11 ENRICO SERAFINO – ALTA LANGA ZERO RIS. ’12 SOTTIMANO – BARBARESCO COTTÀ ’15 LUIGI SPERTINO – BARBERA D’ASTI SUP. V. LA MANDORLA ’16 TACCHINO – DOLCETTO DI OVADA ’16 TENUTA TENAGLIA – GRIGNOLINO DEL M.TO CASALESE ’17 TORRACCIA DEL PIANTAVIGNA – GHEMME ’13 GIANCARLO TRAVAGLINI – GATTINARA RIS. ’13 VIETTI – BAROLO ROCCHE DI CASTIGLIONE ’14 VITE COLTE – PIEMONTE MOSCATO PASSITO LA BELLA ESTATE ’16
3 BICCHIERI VERDI, PRODUCED WITH PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE ENVIRONMENT, OF THE WINE-MAKING TECHNIQUES OF THE REGION AND OF ECO-SUSTAINABLE WINEMAKING
Valle d’Aosta
MAISON ANSELMET – VALLE D’AOSTA CHARDONNAY MAIN ET CŒUR ’16 LES CRÊTES – VALLE D’AOSTA CHARDONNAY CUVÉE BOIS ’16 LO TRIOLET – VALLE D’AOSTA FUMIN ’16 ELIO OTTIN – VALLE D’AOSTA PETITE ARVINE ’17 ROSSET TERROIR – SOPRAQUOTA 900 LA VRILLE – VALLE D’AOSTA CHAMBAVE MUSCAT FLÉTRI ’16
Piedmont
ABBONA – DOGLIANI PAPÀ CELSO ’17 GIULIO ACCORNERO E FIGLI – BARBERA DEL M.TO SUP. BRICCO BATTISTA ’15 F.LLI ALESSANDRIA – BAROLO MONVIGLIERO ’14 GIANFRANCO ALESSANDRIA – BARBERA D’ALBA VITTORIA ’15 ELIO ALTARE – LANGHE ROSSO GIÀRBORINA ’16 ANTONIOLO – GATTINARA OSSO SAN GRATO ’14 ODILIO ANTONIOTTI – COSTE DELLA SESIA NEBBIOLO ’15 BEL COLLE – BARBARESCO PAJORÉ ’15 NICOLA BERGAGLIO – GAVI DEL COMUNE DI GAVI MINAIA ’17 GILBERTO BONIPERTI – FARA BARTÖN ’15 BORGO MARAGLIANO – GIUSEPPE GALLIANO BRUT NATURE M. CL. ’13 GIACOMO BORGOGNO & FIGLI – BAROLO RIS. ’11 BRANDINI – BAROLO DEL COMUNE DI LA MORRA ’14 CA’ DEL BAIO – BARBARESCO ASILI ’15 CA’ ROME’ – BAROLO RAPET ’14 CA’ VIOLA – BAROLO SOTTOCASTELLO DI NOVELLO ’13 CANTINA DEL PINO – BARBARESCO ALBESANI ’14 CASCINA CA’ ROSSA – ROERO VALMAGGIORE V. AUDINAGGIO ’16 CASCINA CHICCO – BAROLO GINESTRA RIS. ’11 CASTELLO DI NEIVE – BARBARESCO ALBESANI SANTO STEFANO RIS. ’13 CASTELLO DI UVIGLIE – BARBERA DEL M.TO SUP. LE CAVE ’16 CERETTO – BARBARESCO ASILI ’15 MICHELE CHIARLO – NIZZA LA COURT RIS. ’15 TENUTE CISA ASINARI DEI MARCHESI DI GRÉSY – BARBARESCO CAMP GROS MARTINENGA RIS. ’13 ELVIO COGNO – BAROLO RAVERA BRICCO PERNICE ’13 LA COLOMBERA – COLLI TORTONESI TIMORASSO IL MONTINO ’16 COLOMBO - CASCINA PASTORI – PIEMONTE PINOT NERO APERTURA ’15 GIACOMO CONTERNO – BAROLO CERRETTA ’14 PAOLO CONTERNO – BAROLO GINESTRA RIS. ’10 CONTRATTO – MILLESIMATO PAS DOSÉ M. CL. ’13 COPPO – BARBERA D’ASTI L’AVVOCATA ’17 RENATO CORINO – BAROLO ROCCHE DELL’ANNUNZIATA ’14 MATTEO CORREGGIA – ROERO RÒCHE D’AMPSÈJ RIS. ’14 GIUSEPPE CORTESE – BARBARESCO RABAJÀ ’15 STEFANINO COSTA – ROERO ARNEIS SARUN ’17 GIANNI DOGLIA – MOSCATO D’ASTI CASA DI BIANCA ’17
GAMBERO ROSSO
Liguria
BIOVIO – RIVIERA LIGURE DI PONENTE PIGATO BON IN DA BON ’17 BRUNA – RIVIERA LIGURE DI PONENTE PIGATO U BACCAN ’16 GIACOMELLI – COLLI DI LUNI VERMENTINO BOBOLI ’17 LA GINESTRAIA – RIVIERA LIGURE DI PONENTE PIGATO VIA MAESTRA ’16 KA’ MANCINÉ – DOLCEACQUA BERAGNA ’17 CANTINE LUNAE BOSONI – COLLI DI LUNI VERMENTINO LUNAE ET. NERA ’17
Lombardy
MARCHESE ADORNO – OP PINOT NERO RILE NERO ’15 ANTICA TESA - PIERANGELO NOVENTA – BOTTICINO GOBBIO ’16
22
OCTOBER 2018
ITALIAN WINES 2019
THE COMPLETE LIST OF MANINCOR – A. A. TERLANO PINOT BIANCO EICHHORN ’16 CANTINA MERAN – A. A. PINOT BIANCO TYROL ’16 CANTINA CONVENTO MURI-GRIES – A. A. PINOT NERO ABTEI MURI RIS. ’15 NALS MARGREID – A. A. PINOT BIANCO SIRMIAN ’17 NIKLASERHOF - JOSEF SÖLVA – A. A. PINOT BIANCO KLASER RIS. ’15 PACHERHOF - ANDREAS HUBER – A. A. VALLE ISARCO SYLVANER ALTE REBEN ’16 TENUTA RITTERHOF – A. A. GEWÜRZTRAMINER AURATUS ’17 CANTINA PRODUTTORI SAN MICHELE APPIANO – A. A. PINOT NERO SANCT VALENTIN RIS. ’15 STROBLHOF – A. A. PINOT NERO RIS. ’15 TASCHLERHOF - PETER WACHTLER – A. A. VALLE ISARCO SYLVANERLAHNER ’16 CANTINA TERLANO – A. A. TERLANO NOVA DOMUS RIS. ’15 TIEFENBRUNNER – A. A. MÜLLER THURGAU FELDMARSCHALL VON FENNER ’16 CANTINA TRAMIN – A. A. GEWÜRZTRAMINER NUSSBAUMER ’16 UNTERMOSERHOF - GEORG RAMOSER – A. A. SANTA MADDALENA CL. HUEB ’16 TENUTA UNTERORTL - CASTEL JUVAL – A. A. VAL VENOSTA RIESLING WEINGARTEN WINDBICHEL ’16 ELENA WALCH – A. A. BIANCO BEYOND THE CLOUDS ’16 TENUTA WALDGRIES – A. A. LAGREIN MIRELL RIS. ’15
AR.PE.PE. – VALTELLINA SUP. SASSELLA V. REGINA RIS. ’09 BELLAVISTA – FRANCIACORTA BRUT TEATRO ALLA SCALA ’13 GUIDO BERLUCCHI & C. – FRANCIACORTA NATURE 61 ’11 CÀ MAIOL – LUGANA SEL. FABIO CONTATO ’16 CA’ DEL BOSCO – FRANCIACORTA DOSAGE ZÉRO VINTAGE COLLECTION NOIR ’09 CA’ DI FRARA – OP RIESLING OLIVA RIS. ’16 CONTADI CASTALDI – FRANCIACORTA ZERO ’14 CONTE VISTARINO – BERTONE PINOT NERO ’15 COSTARIPA – VALTÈNESI CHIARETTO MOLMENTI ’15 DIRUPI – VALTELLINA SUP. DIRUPI ’16 FERGHETTINA – FRANCIACORTA PAS DOSÉ RISERVA 33 ’11 GIORGI – OP PINOT NERO BRUT M. CL. 1870 ’14 LANTIERI DE PARATICO – FRANCIACORTA NATURE ORIGINES RIS. ’12 MAMETE PREVOSTINI – VALTELLINA SUP. SASSELLA SAN LORENZO ’16 MONSUPELLO – BRUT M. CL. ’13 MOSNEL – FRANCIACORTA PAS DOSÉ RIS. ’08 NINO NEGRI – VALTELLINA SFURSAT 5 STELLE ’15 OLTRENERO – OP PINOT NERO NATURE M. CL OLTRENERO ’13 ALDO RAINOLDI – VALTELLINA SFURSAT FRUTTAIO CA’ RIZZIERI ’15 RICCI CURBASTRO – FRANCIACORTA SATÈN ’14 LO SPARVIERE – FRANCIACORTA BRUT ’13 BRUNO VERDI – OP PINOT NERO DOSAGE ZÉRO M. CL. VERGOMBERRA ’13
Veneto
ALLEGRINI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. ’14 ANDREOLA – VALDOBBIADENE BRUT DIRUPO ’17 ROBERTO ANSELMI – CAPITEL CROCE ’17 LORENZO BEGALI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. MONTE CA’ BIANCA ’13 CAV. G. B. BERTANI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. ’10 BIANCAVIGNA – CONEGLIANO VALDOBBIADENE RIVE DI OGLIANO BRUT NATURE ’17 BORTOLOMIOL – VALDOBBIADENE BRUT RIVE SAN PIETRO DI BARBOZZA GRANDE CUVÉE DEL FONDATORE MOTUS VITAE ’16 SORELLE BRONCA – VALDOBBIADENE BRUT NATURE PARTICELLA 232 CA’ LA BIONDA – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. VIGN. DI RAVAZZOL ’13 CA’ RUGATE – SOAVE CL. MONTE ALTO ’16 I CAMPI – VALPOLICELLA SUP. RIPASSO CAMPO CIOTOLI ’16 CANEVEL SPUMANTI – VALDOBBIADENE BRUT CAMPOFALCO VIGN. MONFALCON ’17 CAVALCHINA – CUSTOZA SUP. AMEDEO ’16 ITALO CESCON – MADRE ’16 CORTE GARDONI – BARDOLINO SUP. PRÀDICÀ ’16 FAMIGLIA COTTINI - MONTE ZOVO – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA ’14 DAL MASO – COLLI BERICI MERLOT CASARA ROVERI ’15 CONTE EMO CAPODILISTA - LA MONTECCHIA – BAON ’15 GUERRIERI RIZZARDI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. VILLA RIZZARDI ’13 MASI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. COSTASERA RIS. ’13 MEROTTO – VALDOBBIADENE BRUT RIVE DI COL SAN MARTINO CUVÉE DEL FONDATORE GRAZIANO MEROTTO ’17 MONTE DALL’ORA – VALPOLICELLA CL. SUP. CAMPORENZO ’15 MONTE DEL FRÀ – CUSTOZA SUP. CA’ DEL MAGRO ’16 OTTELLA – LUGANA MOLCEO RIS. ’16
Canton Ticino
ROBERTO E ANDREA FERRARI – TICINO MERLOT CASTANAR ’13 VINATTIERI TICINESI – TICINO MERLOT VINATTIERI ’15
Trentino
NICOLA BALTER – TRENTO PAS DOSÉ BALTER RIS. ’12 CESARINI SFORZA – TRENTO EXTRA BRUT 1673 RIS. ’11 CORVÉE – TRENTINO MÜLLER THURGAU VIÀCH ’17 DORIGATI – TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO LUIGI RIS. ’13 FERRARI – TRENTO PERLÉ ZERO CUVÉE ZERO ’11 LETRARI – TRENTO DOSAGGIO ZERO RIS. ’11 MASO CANTANGHEL – TRENTINO PINOT NERO V. CANTANGHEL ’15 MASO MARTIS – TRENTO BRUT MADAME MARTIS RIS. ’08 MEZZACORONA – TRENTO BRUT ROTARI FLAVIO RIS. ’10 MOSER – TRENTO BRUT NATURE ’12 SAN LEONARDO – SAN LEONARDO ’14
Alto Adige
CANTINA BOLZANO – A. A. LAGREIN TABER RIS. ’16 CANTINA DI CALDARO – A. A. LAGO DI CALDARO CL. SUP. QUINTESSENZ ’17 CANTINA COLTERENZIO – A. A. CHARDONNAY LAFÓA ’16 CANTINA GIRLAN – A. A. PINOT NERO TRATTMANN MAZON RIS. ’15 GUMPHOF - MARKUS PRACKWIESER – A. A. PINOT BIANCO PRAESULIS ’17 KETTMEIR – A. A. SPUMANTE EXTRA BRUT 1919 RIS. ’12 KÖFERERHOF - GÜNTHER KERSCHBAUMER – A. A. VALLE ISARCO RIESLING ’16 CANTINA KURTATSCH – A. A. GEWÜRZTRAMINER BRENNTAL RIS. ’16
GAMBERO ROSSO
23
OCTOBER 2018
ITALIAN WINES 2019
PASQUA - CECILIA BERETTA – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA PASQUA MAI DIRE MAI ’11 LEONILDO PIEROPAN – SOAVE CL. CALVARINO ’16 GRAZIANO PRÀ – SOAVE CL. MONTE GRANDE ’16 GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. ’09 ROENO – RIESLING RENANO COLLEZIONE DI FAMIGLIA ’13 RUGGERI & C. – VALDOBBIADENE EXTRA DRY GIUSTINO B. ’17 TENUTE SALVATERRA – VALPOLICELLA SUP. TENUTA CAMPOCROCE ’16 SERAFINI & VIDOTTO – MONTELLO E COLLI ASOLANI IL ROSSO DELL’ABAZIA ’15 SUAVIA – SOAVE CL. MONTE CARBONARE ’16 SUTTO – CAMPO SELLA ’15 TOMMASI VITICOLTORI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. DE BURIS RIS. ’08 LE VIGNE DI SAN PIETRO – CUSTOZA SANPIETRO ’16 VILLA SANDI – CARTIZZE BRUT V. LA RIVETTA VILLA SPINOSA – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. ALBASINI ’11 VIVIANI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CL. CASA DEI BEPI ’12 PIETRO ZARDINI – AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA LEONE ZARDINI RIS. ’11 ZENATO – LUGANA SERGIO ZENATO RIS. ’15
ERMETE MEDICI & FIGLI – REGGIANO LAMBRUSCO CONCERTO ’17 MONTE DELLE VIGNE – CALLAS MALVASIA ’15 FATTORIA NICOLUCCI – ROMAGNA SANGIOVESE SUP. PREDAPPIO DI PREDAPPIO V. DEL GENERALE RIS. ’15 ALBERTO PALTRINIERI – LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA LECLISSE ’17 NOELIA RICCI – ROMAGNA SANGIOVESE PREDAPPIO GODENZA ’16 LE ROCCHE MALATESTIANE – ROMAGNA SANGIOVESE SUP. SIGISMONDO ’17 SAN PATRIGNANO – COLLI DI RIMINI CABERNET SAUVIGNON MONTEPIROLO ’15 VENTURINI BALDINI – REGGIANO LAMBRUSCO BRUT CADELVENTO ROSÉ ’17 VILLA PAPIANO – ROMAGNA SANGIOVESE MODIGLIANAI PROBI DI PAPIANO RIS. ’15
Tuscany
FATTORIA AMBRA – CARMIGNANO SANTA CRISTINA IN PILLI ’15 STEFANO AMERIGHI – CORTONA SYRAH ’15 MARCHESI ANTINORI – CHIANTI CL. MARCHESE ANTINORI RIS. ’15 TENUTA DI ARCENO - ARCANUM – VALADORNA ’13 BADIA A COLTIBUONO – CHIANTI CL. CULTUS BONI ’15 BARICCI – ROSSO DI MONTALCINO ’16 BASILE – MONTECUCCO SANGIOVESE AD AGIO RIS. ’14 BORGO SALCETINO – CHIANTI CL. ’16 BRUNI – MAREMMA TOSCANA GRENACHE OLTRECONFINE ’16 CAMIGLIANO – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO GUALTO RIS. ’12 ANTONIO CAMILLO – MAREMMA TOSCANA CILIEGIOLO V. VALLERANA ALTA ’16 CAPRILI – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ’13 TENUTA CARLEONE – CHIANTI CL. ’15 FATTORIA CARPINETA FONTALPINO – CHIANTI CL. DOFANA ’16 CASANOVA DI NERI – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO TENUTA NUOVA ’13 CASTELLARE DI CASTELLINA – I SODI DI SAN NICCOLÒ ’14 CASTELLINUZZA – CHIANTI CL. RIS. ’13 CASTELLO DI ALBOLA – CHIANTI CL. RIS. ’14 CASTELLO DI FONTERUTOLI – MIX36 ’15 CASTELLO DI MONSANTO – CHIANTI CL. IL POGGIO RIS. ’13 CASTELLO DI RADDA – CHIANTI CL. GRAN SELEZIONE V. IL CORNO ’14 CASTELLO DI VOLPAIA – CHIANTI CL. ’16 CASTELVECCHIO – IL BRECCIOLINO ’15 FAMIGLIA CECCHI – CHIANTI CL. RISERVA DI FAMIGLIA ’15 VINCENZO CESANI – VERNACCIA DI S. GIMIGNANO SANICE RIS. ’15 CINCIANO – CHIANTI CL. ’16 COL DI BACCHE – MORELLINO DI SCANSANO ROVENTE RIS. ’15 COLLE MASSARI – MONTECUCCO SANGIOVESE POGGIO LOMBRONE RIS. ’14 IL COLOMBAIO DI SANTA CHIARA – VERNACCIA DI S. GIMIGNANO SELVABIANCA ’17 CORTE DEI VENTI – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ’13 MARIA CATERINA DEI – NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO BOSSONA RIS. ’13 DONNA OLIMPIA 1898 – BOLGHERI ROSSO SUP. MILLEPASSI ’15 DUEMANI – DUEMANI ’15 TENUTA FANTI – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VALLOCCHIO ’13 FATTOI – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RIS. ’12 FATTORIA DEL CERRO – NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’15 TENUTE AMBROGIO E GIOVANNI FOLONARI – IL PARETO ’15 FRESCOBALDI – MONTESODI ’15 GIODO – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO GIODO ’13 GRATTAMACCO – BOLGHERI SUP. GRATTAMACCO ’15 ISOLE E OLENA – CEPPARELLO ’15 ISTINE – CHIANTI CL. V. CAVARCHIONE ’16
Friuli Venezia Giulia
TENUTA DI ANGORIS – COLLIO BIANCO GIULIO LOCATELLI RIS. ’16 IL CARPINO – MALVASIA ’15 EUGENIO COLLAVINI – COLLIO BIANCO BROY ’17 LIVIO FELLUGA – ROSAZZO TERRE ALTE ’16 MARCO FELLUGA – COLLIO PINOT GRIGIO MONGRIS RIS. ’16 JERMANN – CAPO MARTINO ’16 VIGNETI LE MONDE – FRIULI CHARDONNAY ’17 LIVON – COLLIO BIANCO SOLARCO ’17 MASÙT DA RIVE – FRIULI ISONZO PINOT BIANCO ’16 DAMIJAN PODVERSIC – NEKAJ ’14 PRIMOSIC – COLLIO CHARDONNAY GMAJNE ’15 DORO PRINCIC – COLLIO PINOT BIANCO ’17 RONCO DEI TASSI – COLLIO BIANCO FOSARIN ’16 RUSSIZ SUPERIORE – COLLIO SAUVIGNON RIS. ’13 SCHIOPETTO – COLLIO FRIULANO ’17 SKERK – OGRADE ’16 TENUTA LUISA – DESIDERIUM I FERRETTI ’16 TIARE - ROBERTO SNIDARCIG – COLLIO SAUVIGNON ’17 FRANCO TOROS – COLLIO PINOT BIANCO ’17 TORRE ROSAZZA – FCO PINOT BIANCO ’17 LA TUNELLA – FCO BIANCOSESTO ’16 LA VIARTE – FCO FRIULANO LIENDE ’17 VIE DI ROMANS – FRIULI ISONZO SAUVIGNON PIERE ’16 VILLA RUSSIZ – COLLIO CHARDONNAY GRÄFIN DE LA TOUR ’14 VOLPE PASINI – FCO SAUVIGNON ZUC DI VOLPE ’17 ZORZETTIG – FCO PINOT BIANCO MYÒ ’17+
Emilia Romagna
ANCARANI – ROMAGNA SANGIOVESE SUP. BIAGIO ANTICO ’16 STEFANO BERTI – ROMAGNA SANGIOVESE SUP. BARTIMEO ’16 CAVICCHIOLI – LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA V. DEL CRISTO ’17 CELLI – ROMAGNA ALBANA SECCO I CROPPI ’17 CLETO CHIARLI TENUTE AGRICOLE – LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA DEL FONDATORE ’17
GAMBERO ROSSO
24
OCTOBER 2018
ITALIAN WINES 2019
LAMOLE DI LAMOLE – CHIANTI CL. LAMOLE DI LAMOLE ET. BLU ’15 TENUTA LE FARNETE/CANTAGALLO – CARMIGNANO RIS. ’15 TENUTA DI LILLIANO – CHIANTI CL. RIS. ’15 LUNADORO – NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO PAGLIARETO ’15 LE MACCHIOLE – PALEO ROSSO ’15 LE MACIOCHE – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ’13 MASTROJANNI – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO V. LORETO ’13 LE MICCINE – CHIANTI CL. ’16 MONTENIDOLI – VERNACCIA DI S. GIMIGNANO CARATO ’13 MONTERAPONI – CHIANTI CL. IL CAMPITELLO RIS. ’15 TENUTA MONTETI – CABURNIO ’14 MONTEVERTINE – LE PERGOLE TORTE ’15 FABIO MOTTA – BOLGHERI ROSSO SUP. LE GONNARE ’15 ORMA – ORMA ’16 TENUTA LA PARRINA – COSTA DELL’ARGENTARIO ANSONICA ’17 PETRA – PETRA ROSSO ’15 PIAGGIA – CARMIGNANO RIS. ’15 PIANCORNELLO – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO ’13 PODERE LE BÈRNE – NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO ’15 POGGIO AL TESORO – BOLGHERI ROSSO SUP. SONDRAIA ’15 POGGIO DI SOTTO – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RIS. ’12 POLIZIANO – NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO LE CAGGIOLE ’15 TENUTA LE POTAZZINE – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RIS. ’11 FATTORIA LE PUPILLE – MORELLINO DI SCANSANO RIS. ’15 LA QUERCE – CHIANTI COLLI FIORENTINI LA TORRETTA RIS. ’15 LE RAGNAIE – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO V. V. ’13 PODERE LA REGOLA – LA REGOLA ’15 RIECINE – CHIANTI CL. RIS. ’15 ROCCA DELLE MACÌE – CHIANTI CL. ’16 ROCCA DI FRASSINELLO – MAREMMA TOSCANA BAFFONERO ’16 RUFFINO – CHIANTI CL. GRAN SELEZIONE RISERVA DUCALE ORO ’14 SAN FELICE – CHIANTI CL. IL GRIGIO RIS. ’15 TENUTA SAN GUIDO – BOLGHERI SASSICAIA ’15 PODERE SAPAIO – BOLGHERI ROSSO SUP. SAPAIO ’16 SESTI - CASTELLO DI ARGIANO – ROSSO DI MONTALCINO ’16 TENUTA SETTE PONTI – ORENO ’16 TENUTA DI SESTA – BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DUELECCI OVEST RIS. ’12 TERENZI – MORELLINO DI SCANSANO MADRECHIESA RIS. ’15 TERENZUOLA – COLLI DI LUNI VERMENTINO SUP. FOSSO DI CORSANO ’17 TORRE A CONA – CHIANTI COLLI FIORENTINI BADIA A CORTE RIS. ’15 UCCELLIERA – ROSSO DI MONTALCINO ’16 TENUTA DI VALGIANO – COLLINE LUCCHESI TENUTA DI VALGIANO ’15 I VERONI – CHIANTI RUFINA VIGN. QUONA RIS. ’15
MAROTTI CAMPI – LACRIMA DI MORRO D’ALBA SUP. ORGIOLO ’16 PODERI MATTIOLI – VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. YLICE ’16 LA MONACESCA – VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA MIRUM RIS. ’16 ALESSANDRO MORODER – CONERO DORICO RIS. ’15 PIEVALTA – CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. SAN PAOLO RIS. ’16 IL POLLENZA – IL POLLENZA ’15 SANTA BARBARA – CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. TARDIVO MA NON TARDO RIS. ’16 TENUTA SANTORI – OFFIDA PECORINO ’17 SPARAPANI - FRATI BIANCHI – VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. IL PRIORE ’16 TENUTA SPINELLI – OFFIDA PECORINO ARTEMISIA ’17 TENUTA DI TAVIGNANO – VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. MISCO ’17 UMANI RONCHI – VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. V. V. ’16 VELENOSI – ROSSO PICENO SUP. ROGGIO DEL FILARE ’15
Umbria
ANTONELLI - SAN MARCO – SPOLETO TREBBIANO SPOLETINO ANTEPRIMA TONDA ’16 BARBERANI – ORVIETO MUFFA NOBILE CALCAIA ’15 TENUTA BELLAFONTE – MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO COLLENOTTOLO ’14 ARNALDO CAPRAI – MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO 25 ANNI ’14 CASTELLO DELLA SALA – CERVARO DELLA SALA ’16 DECUGNANO DEI BARBI – ORVIETO CL. SUP. IL BIANCO ’17 TENUTE LUNELLI - CASTELBUONO – MONTEFALCO ROSSO ZIGGURAT ’16 LUNGAROTTI – TORGIANO ROSSO RUBESCO V. MONTICCHIO RIS. ’13 F.LLI PARDI – MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO SACRANTINO ’14 CANTINA PEPPUCCI – TODI GRECHETTO I ROVI ’16 ROCCAFIORE – FIORFIORE ’16 GIAMPAOLO TABARRINI – ADARMANDO ’16
Lazio
FAMIGLIA COTARELLA – MONTIANO ’16 ANTICHE CANTINE MIGLIACCIO – FIENO DI PONZA BIANCO ’17 SERGIO MOTTURA – POGGIO DELLA COSTA ’17 POGGIO LE VOLPI – ROMA ROSSO ED. LIMITATA ’15 SAN GIOVENALE – HABEMUS ’16 TENUTA DI FIORANO – FIORANO BIANCO ’16 VALLE VERMIGLIA – FRASCATI SUP. EREMO TUSCOLANO ’17
Abruzzo
CASTORANI – MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO PODERE CASTORANI RIS. ’14 LUIGI CATALDI MADONNA – CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO PIÈ DELLE VIGNE ’16 FEUDO ANTICO – TULLUM PECORINO BIOLOGICO ’17 DINO ILLUMINATI – MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO COLLINE TERAMANE ZANNA RIS. ’13 MASCIARELLI – TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO CASTELLO DI SEMIVICOLI ’15 TENUTA TERRAVIVA – TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO SUP. MARIO’S 44 ’16 CANTINA TOLLO – MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO MO’ RIS. ’14 TORRE DEI BEATI – ABRUZZO PECORINO GIOCHEREMO CON I FIORI ’17 LA VALENTINA – MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO SPELT RIS. ’15 VALENTINI – MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO ’13 VALLE REALE – MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO VIGN. DI SANT’EUSANIO ’16 VILLA MEDORO – PECORINO ’17
Marche
BORGO PAGLIANETTO – VERDICCHIO DI MATELICA VERTIS ’16 LE CANIETTE – PICENO SUP. MORELLONE ’13 CASALFARNETO – VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. GRANCASALE ’16 TENUTA COCCI GRIFONI – OFFIDA PECORINO GUIDO COCCI GRIFONI ’14 TENUTA DE ANGELIS – ROSSO PICENO SUP. ORO ’15 FAZI BATTAGLIA – CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. SAN SISTO RIS. ’16 ANDREA FELICI – CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. V. IL CANTICO DELLA FIGURA RIS. ’15 GIOACCHINO GAROFOLI – VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CL. SUP. PODIUM ’16
GAMBERO ROSSO
25
OCTOBER 2018
ITALIAN WINES 2019
Molise
Calabria
ROBERTO CERAUDO – GRISARA ’17 IPPOLITO 1845 – PECORELLO ’17 LIBRANDI – GRAVELLO ’16 SPIRITI EBBRI – NEOSTÒS BIANCO ’17 LUIGI VIOLA – MOSCATO PASSITO ’17
DI MAJO NORANTE – MOLISE TINTILIA ’16
Campania
ALOIS – CAIATÌ PALLAGRELLO BIANCO ’16 CANTINE ASTRONI – CAMPI FLEGREI FALANGHINA V. ASTRONI ’15 ANTONIO CAGGIANO – TAURASI V. MACCHIA DEI GOTI ’14 CANTINE DELL’ANGELO – GRECO DI TUFO MINIERE ’16 CASEBIANCHE – PASHKA’ ’17 CONTRADE DI TAURASI – TAURASI VIGNE D’ALTO ’12 MARISA CUOMO – COSTA D’AMALFI FURORE BIANCO FIORDUVA ’17 DONNACHIARA – AGLIANICO ’16 I FAVATI – FIANO DI AVELLINO PIETRAMARA ’17 FEUDI DI SAN GREGORIO – TAURASI PIANO DI MONTEVERGINE RIS. ’13 FONTANAVECCHIA – SANNIO TABURNO FALANGHINA LIBERO ’07 LA GUARDIENSE – FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO JANARE SENETE ’17 MONTEVETRANO – MONTEVETRANO ’16 MUSTILLI – SANNIO SANT’AGATA DEI GOTI PIEDIROSSO ARTUS ’16 NANNI COPÈ – SABBIE DI SOPRA IL BOSCO ’16 LA PIETRA DI TOMMASONE – ISCHIA BIANCOLELLA ’17 PIETRACUPA – GRECO DI TUFO ’17 ROCCA DEL PRINCIPE – FIANO DI AVELLINO TOGNANO ’15 ETTORE SAMMARCO – COSTA D’AMALFI RAVELLO BIANCO SELVA DELLE MONACHE ’17 SAN SALVATORE 1988 – PIAN DI STIO ’17 TENUTA DEL MERIGGIO – FIANO DI AVELLINO ’17 TERRE STREGATE – FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO SVELATO ’17 VILLA RAIANO – FIANO DI AVELLINO VENTIDUE ’16
Sicily
ALESSANDRO DI CAMPOREALE – SICILIA SYRAH KAID ’16 ALTA MORA – ETNA BIANCO ALTA MORA ’17 ASSULI – SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA LORLANDO ’17 TENUTE BOSCO – ETNA ROSSO VICO PREPHYLLOXERA ’15 CARAVAGLIO – MALVASIA DELLE LIPARI PASSITO ’17 LE CASEMATTE – FARO ’16 COTTANERA – ETNA ROSSO ZOTTORINOTO RIS. ’14 CUSUMANO – SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA SÀGANA ’16 DONNAFUGATA – MILLE E UNA NOTTE ’14 FEUDI DEL PISCIOTTO – CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA GIAMBATTISTA VALLI PARIS ’16 FEUDO MACCARI – SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA SAIA ’16 FIRRIATO – ETNA ROSSO CAVANERA ROVO DELLE COTURNIE ’14 GRACI – ETNA ROSSO ’16 CANTINE MOTHIA – DEDICATO A FRANCESCO ’15 CANTINE NICOSIA – ETNA ROSSO VIGN. MONTE GORNA RIS. ’12 PALARI – FARO PALARI ’14 PALMENTO COSTANZO – ETNA BIANCO DI SEI ’17 PIETRADOLCE – ETNA ROSSO CONTRADA RAMPANTE ’16 PLANETA – MENFI SYRAH MAROCCOLI ’14 FEUDO PRINCIPI DI BUTERA – SICILIA NERO D’AVOLA DELIELLA ’16 RALLO – ALCAMO BELEDA ’17 GIROLAMO RUSSO – ETNA ROSSO FEUDO DI MEZZO ’16 CANTINE SETTESOLI – SICILIA MANDRAROSSA CARTAGHO ’16 TENUTA DI FESSINA – ETNA BIANCO A’ PUDDARA ’16 TORNATORE – ETNA ROSSO TRIMARCHISA ’16
Basilicata
CANTINE DEL NOTAIO – AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE IL REPERTORIO ’16 ELENA FUCCI – AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE TITOLO ’16 PATERNOSTER – AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE DON ANSELMO ’15 RE MANFREDI - CANTINA TERRE DEGLI SVEVI – AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE RE MANFREDI ’15
Sardinia
CAPICHERA – VERMENTINO DI GALLURA VIGNA’NGENA ’17 ANTONELLA CORDA – CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA ’16 TENUTE DELOGU – VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA DIE ’17 GIUSEPPE GABBAS – CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA CL. DULE ’15 CANTINA GIBA – CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS 6MURA RIS. ’15 ANDREA LEDDA – VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA AZZESU TENUTA DEL VULCANO PELAO ’17 CANTINA DI MOGORO - IL NURAGHE – SEMIDANO DI MOGORO SUP. PUISTÈRIS ’16 PALA – VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA STELLATO ’17 SANTA MARIA LA PALMA – CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA R RIS. ’15 CANTINA DI SANTADI – CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS SUP. TERRE BRUNE ’14 TENUTE SELLA & MOSCA – ALGHERO TORBATO CATORE ’17 SU ENTU – BOVALE ’16 SURRAU – VERMENTINO DI GALLURA SUP. SCIALA ’17
Puglia
CARVINEA – OTTO ’16 TENUTE CHIAROMONTE – GIOIA DEL COLLE PRIMITIVO MURO SANT’ANGELO CONTRADA BARBATTO ’15 COPPI – GIOIA DEL COLLE PRIMITIVO SENATORE ’15 CANTINE DUE PALME – SALICE SALENTINO ROSSO SELVAROSSA RIS. ’15 FELLINE – PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA ZINFANDEL SINFAROSA TERRA NERA ’16 VITO DONATO GIULIANI – GIOIA DEL COLLE PRIMITIVO BARONAGGIO RIS. ’15 CANTINE PAOLO LEO – ORFEO NEGROAMARO ’16 LEONE DE CASTRIS – FIVE ROSES 74° ANNIVERSARIO ’17 MASSERIA LI VELI – ASKOS VERDECA ’17 POLVANERA – GIOIA DEL COLLE PRIMITIVO 16 VIGN. SAN BENEDETTO ’15 TENUTE RUBINO – OLTREMÉ ’17 CANTINE SAN MARZANO – PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA SESSANTANNI ’15 TORREVENTO – CASTEL DEL MONTE ROSSO V. PEDALE RIS. ’15 VESPA - VIGNAIOLI PER PASSIONE – PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA RACCONTAMI ’16 TENUTA VIGLIONE – GIOIA DEL COLLE PRIMITIVO MARPIONE RIS. ’15
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PIZZERIA REVOLUTION. THERE’S MORE BEYOND PIES Preparation, competence, service, professional growth, restaurant ambitions, wines and beers in their highest expressions. The pizzeria concept is changing, radically, sometimes to an excess. Evolution, revolution or ordinary madness? As the new Gambero Rosso Guida Pizzerie d'Italia is released, let's reflect with the protagonists on an increasingly compelling sector of the Italian dining scene
words by Livia Montagnoli – art by Andrea Chronopoulos
STORIES
T
here is Margherita menu (the potential tomato is endless, why not explore all of it?) or a dough that allows to select particular doughs... And be careful not to missmatch the best beer to enhance the ingredients on the plate. Scenes of ordinary madness (?) in the pizzeria: let's do a clean sweep of all the stereotypes that the universe of pizza comes with, and let's begin to think about the present (and the future) of Italian pizzerias. It's easy to joke, but behind the very providential evolution of the sector - the one that today allows us to look with confidence at the prospects of a very ancient profession that is finally gaining awareness of itself there's a desire to play on the upside to make the customer's experience worthy of note. At the height of a food that is born poor, but becomes ambitious, as the protagonists of this revolution that starts from the product - the fundamental coordinates remain quality of ingredients, experimentation on dough and leavening, control over baking, territoriality - and pushes to completely rethink the pizzeria as lazy service in a colourful environment, which can verge, in the best instance, towards folklore, but more often betrays slovenliness. IN THE PIZZERIA LIKE AT THE RESTAURANT? In the words of one of them, "who said that going to the pizzeria means eating something passable and being served with sloppiness? Who would consciously choose to do it?". Massimiliano Prete jokes, but his thinking is rigorous, as the research on the structure from which it all started and today directs the work of the team of Gusto Divino (in the first place in Alba) and Gusto Madre in Turin: "We start from focus on dough to improve customer experience in terms of digestibility, and this means knowing how to interpret contemporary consumption habits, starting with the choice of flours and continuing with the evolution of techniques. This enno-
RULES OF CONTEMPORARY PIZZERIAS
1 Ambiance Curated, personal, comfortable, attention to design
2 Service Professional, passionate, capable of talking about the product
3 Menu Well thought-out, brief but diversified, attentive to seasonality and to the description of the various doughs
4 Beverage list Niche beers, bubbles, select domestic and international wines. Boundless pairing options
5 Philosophy The team's work counts more than that of the individual. Everyone must share the same goals, training is essential
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PIZZARIUM LA NOTIZIA 53 LA NOTIZIA 94 OLIVA
PIZZAMORE
T
N N
PIZZERIA REVOLUTION
N
50 KALÒ
N
SORBILLO
N
LA BRACIERA
PIANO B
I
D
Siracusa
THE BEST PIZZA-MAKERS ACCORDING TO PIZZERIE D'ITALIA 2019 STARITA
I D
ASSAPORITO
T
SIRANI
LA FILIALE A L’ALBERETA
N
DA EZIO
LIBERY PIZZA
I
de lG ra pp a
B.
onifa
MEDITERRANEO
I
Sarzana Querceta Massarosa
D
PIZZARIUM
KAMBUSA
Arezzo Radicondoli
LA PERGOLA
N
IL VECCHIO E IL MARE
MENCHETTI
N
MAMMA ROSA
Ortezzano
D
N
LA SORGENTE
Guardiagrele
PEPE IN GRANI
SORBILLO
N
STARITA
o
N
D
FANDANGO
VILLA GIOVANNA
N
N
T
PIZZAMORE
T
T
Palermo
N N
LA BRACIERA
PIANO B
I
D
Siracusa
N
N
I
DA ATTILIO ALLA PIGNASECCA ‘O SFIZIO D’ ‘A NOTIZIA MASARDONA
ERA ORA
N
Acri
N
50 KALÒ
mpania
PIZZERIA SALVO
D
PIZZARIUM LA NOTIZIA 53 LA NOTIZIA 94
N
Palma Ca
S a C. Gi re org m io an o
I
L’OSTERIA DI BIRRA DEL BORGO BONCI
I MASANIELLI
N
CASA VITIELLO
Filiano
Napoli
I
SEU PIZZA ILLUMINATI
I
I
ta
T
I
IN FUCINA
OLIVA
PIZZERIA SANCHO pizzeriasancho.it
n avia
SFORNO
er Cas
ia Ca
I
PROLOCO PINCIANO
FRAMENTO
zzo
I
I
PROLOCO DOL
Cagliari
GIANGI’S PIZZA
Arielli
TONDA
D
D
L’Aquila
Ott
AGRITURISMO IL CASALETTO
T
Viterbo
D
LA GATTA MANGIONA
T
N
PERCORSI DI GUSTO
Fiumicino
PIZZERIA BOSCO
N
LE FOLLIE DI ROMUALDO
LA VENTOLA D
Roma
Tempio Pausania
N
i nt
Ch
Rosignano M.mo
T
LO SPELA
D
N
AL FRESCO
D
‘O SCUGNIZZO in
Lu cc a
APOGEO GIOVANNINI
GIOTTO
D
D
e Fir
Gr ev e
BATTIL'ORO
ta
I TIGLI
e nz
an
s ra
et Pi
N
BERBERÉ
Castel Maggiore
N N
cio
GIGI PIPA Reggio Emilia
Saluzzo La Morra
ia
D
D
LA DIVINA PIZZA
Este
PICCOLA PIEDIGROTTA
OFFICINE DEL CIBO
no
rti
a nM
D T
SAPORÈ A.
Brugnera
GUSTO DIVINO
D
D
e av Pi
San B
Torino
PIZZA NAPOLETANA NEAPOLITAN PIZZA PIZZA ALL’ITALIANA ITALIAN-STYLE PIZZA PIZZA A DEGUSTAZIONE TASTING PIZZA AALTAGLIO TAGLIO
Sa
Milano
PERBACCO
no
di
la
A
an o
Ba gn
no
Ba ss
D
na
D
Erbusco
SESTOGUSTO
ggio Triu
POMODORO & BASILICO
Le g
T
OTTOCENTO
olo
N
N
D
ella
‘O SFIZIO D’ ‘A NOTIZIA LIPENT N MASARDONA
N
-M
MONTEGRIGNA BY TRIC TRAC
N
N
DA ATTILIO ALLA PIGNASECCA
DRY MILANO D
T
Palermo
N
D T
T
T GAMBERO ROSSO
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PIZZA NAPOLETANA PIZZA ALL’ITALIANA PIZZA A DEGUSTAZIONE PIZZA A TAGLIO
N
N
I
STORIES
bles the whole experience, and the model to follow, for me, is undoubtedly dining". So, the first evidence is that the technique is not all: a menu that proposes alternate doughs - from soft and friable Pizz'otto to the Fa Croc inspired by the stuffed Roman focaccia, to the Gusto Autentico, based on autolysis or hydrolysis - is not meant to confuse: "To the contrary, working on different types of offer to avoid the usual long list of indistinct items, not only is more functional to raise the level, but also requires us to be able to talk about the product at the table, and serve it professionally". This is how the preparation of the pizza chef influences his ambition, stimulating the entrepreneurial growth of individuals there are quite a few cases of substantial investments to double (and triplicate) the activity in the same or in other cities, even better if abroad - and encouraging younger people to approach the trade with completely different perspectives from what a novice apprentice could have imagined a few years ago. OFFER SELECTS DEMAND We grow all together, therefore, and the quality of the offer selects the demand: "Valeria and I have offered our idea of a pizzeria in Rome based on an all-round quality experience, where attention and pampering make all the difference, like the professionalism of those who work in the front of the house, young and learned young people coming from the dining world, motivated to feel part of a project that makes us grow together as a team. This is what our customers selected". This is how Pier Daniele Seu shares his idea of contemporary pizzeria, as the new Tre Spicchi on our Guide only a few months from the opening of his first entrepreneurial project (Seu Pizza Illuminati, in the Porta Portese area in Rome). The not even 30 year-old says, "There are many elements to consider, the study on pizza remains central, but in pizzeria we have the opportunity to democratize a certain type of attention usually reserved
THE FRANCO PEPE SYSTEM. PIZZA NO LIMITS It all starts in Caiazzo, roughly six thousand inhabitants in the province of Caserta, off of the tourist routes. This was the situation at least until the temple of pizza Franco Pepe didn't start crunching numbers, with a vision to set up a project of culinary culture that on the most popular Italian tradition leveraged to illuminate an entire territory, and its craftsmen. And if Pepe in Grani today is the most celebrated pizzeria in the world (and the one that gets the highest score on our Guide, 96, on a par with I Tigli by Simone Padoan), credit is due mostly to the desire of thinking outside the box, with the support of incessant experimentation to improve the product, and the heart of those who commit themselves with everything to give dignity to the profession of the pizza maker. Franco is like that, and the "palazzo of pizza" in Caiazzo (which also offers rooms for those who want to stay the night: probably the only inn-pizzeria in the world!) today offers as many possibilities as his motivations to always improve: next to the traditional menu, there is the functional one that deepens the nutritional values of the product, debunking the myth of fattening pizza. On the upper floor there are tables for pizza tastings with a guided menu conducted by a sommelier, and in another space Franco has created a place that allows him to be working face to face with the customers, inviting them to live an "Authentica" experience (a wood-burning oven, the pizzaiolo and his hands, 8 seats around the workbench, in the smallest pizzeria in the world). Is the dream coming true? Bringing pizza - with a capital P - on the stage it deserves, in the woods of the Albereta Erbusco, in Franciacorta, and with more than convincing results: also La Filiera brings home 95 points.
for those who attend high-level restaurants, why not do it?". Therefore include in the offer a select wine list, with some Champagne references, or a good lambic among the craft beers on tap. And even before sitting at the table, the desire is to define a welcoming environment, "taking into consideration lighting, air conditioning, seating comfort, originality in the dining room, with a counter to eat face to face with the pizza maker and an aperitivo corner" adds Valeria Zuppardo, Seu's partner in life and at work. "What you give to the customer, is returned in terms of appreciation, and this motivates us to continue on our path". That's why a guide to the best pizzerias in Italy today can not disregard all these nuances, just as it was in the past for restaurant dining: hence the "revolution" of the scores that everyone can appreciate on the edition of Pizzerie d'Italia 2019, presented at the end of September in Naples. With votes that determine and explain the final judgment - in the
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Sixth edition of Pizzerie d'Italia by Gambero Rosso. A "historical" edition: for the first time, the votes are expressed in percentages and they appear along with the Spicchi and Rotelle recognitions. Three items were examined: pizza, service (including the beverage proposal and its management) and the environment. The grades are calibrated in relation to the categories of membership (Neapolitan pizza, Italian-style pizza tasting, pizza al taglio).
PIZZERIA REVOLUTION
PIZZA ROMANA: THE REDEMPTION OF THE CINDERELLA OF PIZZA And the day of revenge has come. Recently kissed by a peak of attention culminating in the drafting of the New Roman Pizza Manifesto (in the context of the first Pizza Romana Day conceived by Agrodolce and Repubblica Sapori publications), Roman-style pizza was wrongly relegated to the role of Cinderella in the presence of very strong and noble lineage of the true Neapolitan pizza style. But after the recognition given by UNESCO to the art of Neapolitan pizza maker, now the moment to redeem the trade of Roman cousins has come – think how strong the pizza in the pan "Roman style" game was won by Bonci – and the art of a pizza: thin and crisp, until recently unfairly mistreated by poor hands and downward ambitions (try to take a trip among the tourist pizzerias in Rome). The protagonists of this rescue are young and motivated, aware that the need to do research on dough and condiments regardless of style. The world (of pizza) is beautiful because it is vast and varied.
PIZZERIE D'ITALIA 2019 SPECIAL AWARDS Best beverage menu ZENZERO OSTERIA DELLA PIZZA PISA OLIVA DA CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI NAPLES
Maestros of Dough GENNARO BATTILORO, BATTIL’ORO FUOCHI+LIEVITI+SPIRITI SERAVEZZA (LU) FRANCESCO E SALVATORE SALVO SALVO SAN GIORGIO A CREMANO (NA)
Emerging Pizza-Makers LUCA MASTRACCI PUPILLO PURA PIZZA PRIVERNO (LT) VALENTINO TAFURI 3 VOGLIE BATTIPAGLIA (SA)
Pizza Tasting Menu GIGI PIPA ESTE (PD) DALLA TERRA, PUGLIESE FIORDILATTE, GOAT'S MILK RICOTTA, BRAISED ENDIVE, GREEN BROCCOLI, PUNTARELLE, GINGER CARROT CREAM, RED TURNIP POWDER
Italian-Style Pizza GIANGI’S PIZZA ARIELLI (CH) HOPS, I MADE SHRIMP COCKTAIL WITH BURRATA PUGLIESE, SHRIMP MARINATED IN GIN, ORANGE JUICE AND COINTREAU, WILD ASPARAGUS, YELLOW TOMATOES, CORNFLOWERS, CITRUS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
Neapolitan-Style Pizza THE ILLUSTRATOR’S TRAIT It was fun to imagine the fusion of two seemingly contrasting worlds - on one side the pop and accessible atmosphere of pizza, and on the other the aesthetic sophistication of restaurant chefs - and then find a formal and chromatic balance in a single illustration. – Andrea Chronopoulos
ASSAPORITO - GUGLIELMO VUOLO VERONA LUNGOMARE CARACCIOLO, FIORDILATTE, FRIED ANCHOVIES, CRISPY SEAWEED AND GRATED LEMON
Pizza Sold by Weight ALIMENTO BRESCIA PIZZOCCHERA, CHEESE, POTATOES AND SAVOY CABBAGE, MOUNTAIN BUTTER, SILTER FROM VAL CAMONICA
Pizza Dolce SEU PIZZA ILLUMINATI ROMA BETWEEN FIORDIFRAGOLA STRAWBERRY POPSICLE AND CRUNCHY ALMOND BRITTLE GELATO, BROWN SUGAR, OSMOSIS STRAWBERRIES, STRAWBERRY COULIS, CREAMED RICOTTA AND LIME, HOMEMADE DRIED FRUIT CRUMBLE
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STORIES
climb to Spicchi and Rotelle - taking into account three benchmarks: pizza, of course, but also service - with all the tasks that come with it, from the skillset of the dining room staff to the beverage offer - and the environment. And that's how it should be, to reward a commitment that is complicated not just for those who want to keep up with the times and teach: "We know to perform automatic customer selection by raising the level, but we have an activity to run, poetry is not enough - explains Prete so we must be convincing, focus on team training: our market is growing, and the numbers confirm this, we must be prepared". Thanks to the beautiful job set up in Alba, he managed to conquer Turin in less than a year, and today he is ready to raise the bar: change of name - Gusto Madre becomes Sesto Gusto - and even more maniacal exploration of the potential of the pizza subject: "I am never satisfied, we start from the love that there is in each of us for carbohydrates, and show that it can be a current challenge, with the aim of consolidating in Turin, and then look to Milan". HEART AND PROFESSIONALITY Taking up the challenge in a totally different context is young Ciro Oliva, Tre Spicchi and a prize for his Beverage Menu for his place in the heart of the Rione Sanità in Naples, where he inherited and managed to renew the tradition of Concettina ai Tre Santi: "Pizza is a popular and complex food that is in our dna, we have the task of enhancing it to the best of our ability, without placing limits on us so as not to transmit it to the customer". His commitment is in close contact with the community of the neighborhood, from where many of his collaborators are from: "I want to think of our work also as an opportunity for social redemption. To be part of a team, training is fundamental, so my waiters train in the dining room at the Faro in Capo d'Orso, at the Kresios in Telese Terme, working with important Maître D's, and follow me around Italy, I
ZENZERO IN PISA: WHO SAID WINE CAN'T BE PAIRED TO PIZZA? "I have always interpreted the pizzeria as a place that's a little different from the idea we are all used to. After all, I come from the world of wine shops, and I've always loved the idea of pairing glasses with each pizza". According to Stefano Bonamici, owner and pizza maker of ZenZero in Pisa, neo-elected as the pizzeria with the best wine list. A few months ago the place moved into a larger space - "we now serve 120 seats in the evenings" - but the philosophy of ZenZero has remained unchanged over time, leading it to conquer a wide and diversified audience: "Our pizzas are complex, we follow the baking of each product carefully, there is great kitchen work. When we started with our idea of pizza tasting 9 years ago, we were pioneers of this kind of offer in Tuscany". The wine cellar supported this ambition, enriching its offer with almost 300 labels, "designed to be paired with pizza, researched on the territory without preclusions, with attention to natural wines, but only when they are really good. And the desire to discover niche products to introduce to customers ". The young sommelier Matteo Puschi joined the group a year and a half ago; his task is talking about the wines in the dining room, explaining why pizza and wine can enhance each other: "I immediately married the obsession that drives ZenZero's choices. Our pizzas have their own structure, complexity and a balance that leads me to think of the pairing as if I were in front of a plate. Equally important criteria is search for character and personality: we select wines that we like, in the light of the best combination with the pizza product". And the customer response? "Good, we must strive not to be pedantic, it's still a cultural revolution that we must propose without being snobbish." Any suggestions for the perfect match? "Among reds, the Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo, but also Lagrein, Gamay, Syrah; better to avoid Chianti and Bordeaux wines. With whites and bubbles the pairing is simpler, we for example have a broad representation of Loire Valley wines".
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RIVOLUZIONE PIZZERIA
PIZZERIA STEREOTYPES. HOW TO SPOT THEM AND… AVOID THEM
1 Ban the phonebook-type menus Folding plastic menus the size of the table, with 40-50 proposals that wearily repeat all the possible combinations of off-season ingredients. Surely not a good sign. Better choose from a menu divided by types of dough: "3-4 proposals per category may suffice confirms Massimiliano Prete - and allow us to enhance the product and our work".
2 Start well... End better This applies in a restaurant as well as for a pizzeria: the dessert menu cannot be neglected. Except for those nostalgic of panna cotta, territoriality––seasonality and consistency of sweet meal endings give points more towards the goal of the perfect experience in a pizzeria.
3 Lager, stout or amber? Never has a question been more anachronistic. No one forces us to give up the classic pizza and beer pairing, but why settle for a classic nondescript ale? Dinner in a pizzeria is an excellent opportunity to explore beer styles and niche products from small Italian breweries.
GENNARO NASTI. THE PIZZA CHEF BASED IN PARIS He moved his first steps in Belleville, the 20th arrondissement of the most multicultural Paris, where Popine's pizza has found its place among Chinese dumplings and tajine. The consecration, however, arrived at the foot of the Sacre Coeur, among the tables of Bijou, a place that's crowded every day of the week by locas (and Italians visiting the city) who want to linger in the folds of a narrative that gives pizza equal dignity of the kitchen of a renowned bistro. Gennaro Nasti, originally from Secondigliano and a globetrotting pizza maker working across America and Spain, has never forgotten his roots, but the fertile ground for high flying was found far from home, carving out one brick after another his role as pizza chef coherent with the opening and reception of his pizzeria in the 18th arrondissement: "Paris was culturally ready to accept my proposal, I am very demanding, and I wanted to work on the dining room and on hospitality as well as on the product. A contemporary pizzeria identifies with the quality of pizza, but also for the attention to the presentation of dishes, the charme of the environment, the professional staff in the dining room, and an equally high quality wine list". Two years after opening his pizza tasting place (Tre Spicchi on Top Italian Restaurants guide that Gambero Rosso dedicates to Italian dining abroad) attracted customers from all over France: 30 seats, a team of 11 people between kitchen and dining room, 250 labels between Italian and French wines. And the novelty of an electric oven that complements the woodburning one, "to work on other flours, shapes and different baking techniques". The pizza you would recommend among the latest "arrivals"? "Slow Food Presidium lentils, Greek yogurt and tarragon: the taste of lentils is extraordinary". Because in the end Gennaro is a pizza chef in love with the kitchen. And soon he will open a contemporary trattoria in Menilmontant. Vive la France!
STORIES
take them with me to eat in fine dining restaurants to make them understand the importance of conveying an experience". The result is a range of unexpected nuances, from the careful mise en place (with personalized plates, ceramic flatware rests inspired by the mithra of Saint Gennaro made by underprivileged kids of the Scampia slum) to the finish of the dishes on the table, with fresh basil added at the last moment and many other rituals functional to the narration of pizza (a bit of complacency sure, but this is also part of the game). And there are always those accompanying the ladies at the entrance to the powder room, where the courtesy set also includes personalized toothpicks, scrub soap bars and whatever elese might be requested: ask and it will be given to you. But those who sit at Ciro's tables can also expect a great wine list: "Manuele is our reference point, he started from scratch, now he's in his third year at sommelier school. He has worked on the regional territory and in Italy to find niche labels, and has expanded our Champagne list. Today we offer 130 references, of which about thirty are French bubbles. And we sell them well! In any given evening we may open as much as 20 important bottles. "And what's left of the classic loud group of friends sharing the beloved pizza and beer pairing?" Our clientele is versatile, there are those who come for an experience, and those who simply want to eat a big Margherita with a cold beer. For us it should not make a difference, we verticalize the offer to please everyone with the same attention. Because hospitality is a quality of mind, a mix of warmth, style and service that aims to be in tune with the client and his desires." His model? Ciro has no doubts: "Grandma... Nobody could leave her house without being pampered at least by one of her thousand cares? Eat a bite, cover your shoulders, let me hug you... The spontaneity of gestures was dictated by love." So it's true, heart and professionalism can go hand in hand, and one orients the other. The pizza chefs are here to prove it.
THE BEST PIZZA MAKERS IN THE WORLD ACCORDING TO TOP ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
PARIS
Bijou 3 spicchi
DUBAI
Luigia
10 Rue Dancourt Paris bijou-paris.fr
Rixos Premium Dubai luigia.ch
Average Price: € 35
Average Price: 250 dirham
Gennaro Nasti’s journey has taken him from Secondigliano to Paris by way of Barcelona, Chicago, Seattle. The common denominator is always pizza, a Neapolitan delight that aspires to new heights and a pizza that is now famous in the French capital. The pies here boasted light, well aired whole grain flour dough, and topped with lots of Italian products. But the real surprise is now Bijou, gourmet pizzeria and cocktail bar at the foot of the Sacre Coeur. The menu features all the house classics and a selection of pizzas sold by slice, such as the pizza Antica with ragout made with slow-cooked and smoked heirloom Corbara tomatoes and bufala. Or the pizza Bedogni topped with prosciutto, stracciatella and extra virgin olive oil. Ingredients arrive fresh from Italy, while the wine list is very extensive and extremely well-focused on attentive vignerons.
Luigia is a successful case study, with branches in Dubai, Fribourg, Geneva, Lausanne, Petit Saconnes and Nyon. Enrico Coppola’s format is very successful. The choice of ingredients is quasi-manic, which are strictly personally selected and self-imported. The pizzaioli and management are greatly invested in the business management, avantgarde technology controls each phase of the production. We're not sure if we prefer the pizza or the cuisine offer, with amazing traditional recipes like parmigiana or creamy and tasty spaghetti with clams. The pizza napoletana is exceptional: left to proof at least 48 hours, baked to perfection and topped by sublime ingredients in each bite. Take for example the margherita topped with fior di latte from Agerola. San Marzano or Piennolo tomatoes, super clean and fragrant olive oils, authentic buffalo mozzarella and a huge portfolio of gourmet pies: if you love pizza, you'll love Luigia. The wellstocked wine list features both big labels such as Sassicaia as well as small winemakers, and a nice selection available by the glass. Highly recommended. 2018 Dubai's Best Pizzeria.
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PIZZERIA REVOLUTION
SAO PAOLO
Leggera Pizza Napoletana Rua Diana 80 Perdizes - St. Paul pizzerialeggera.com.br Average Price: R$ 50 Andrè Guidon creates splendid classic pizzas since 2013 in a small venue that seats only 40 diners in the Perdizes neighbourhood, a hangout for intellectuals and a very casual ambiance. Leggera was founded with the intent of raising the quality bar in a city dining scene that already offers quite a number of fine pizzerias. Care and attention are paid to sourcing quality ingredients, but what makes the pizza at Leggera the best in town is the skill in proofing the dough, the correct amount of toppings and a talented hand at the oven. The pizza marinara is the strongpoint, and the calzones are applaud-worthy. In addition to the classic pies, Andrè’s signature pies include the Divina Commedia filled with bufala, smoked provola, basil, parmigiano, spicy sausage and caramelized onion.
MALTA
TOKYO
Sotto
Napoli Sta Ca'
32 Triq In-Nofsinhar La Valletta
1-11-4 Azabudai Minato - Tokyo
Average Price: € 20
Average Price: ¥ 4,000
Luisa Giannini moved to Malta four years ago to open the island’s only pinsa oven. Seating only 5, Luisa has transformed an old factory space located in an alley behind the presidential palace of the Republic of Malta in a particularly cosy eatery. The service is top-notch, and the wine list is astounding, covering a broad range of Italian regional labels as well as lesser-known denominations. Young pizzaioli Andrea Soldini and Giuseppe Cravagna, roll out a fantastic dough that’s’ constantly fragrant. Our favourite is Pinsa Luisa, that’s topped with mozzarella, prosciutto and truffle. Another must is the Pinsa Sotto: mozzarella, eggplant and Parmigiano and made with a blend of four flours, extra virgin olive oil and seventy-two hours of rising time. A vast selection of Italian craft beers completes the offer.
Before making pizza, Peppe Erricchielo enjoyed throwing hankies in the air. In Tokyo he worked as dishwasher, pizza chef and finally opened his own place in 2011 in Kamiyacho, in the shadow of the Tokyo Tower. Success was immediate, and since 2015 his pizzeria doubled with a new opening in Komazawa. He imports tomato, fior di latte and bufala cheese directly from Battipaglia with an ad hoc brand. With Napoli football jerseys and mufflers on the walls, you’ll enjoy the best pizza in town. The rim is thick and perfectly shaped; the crust is soft, light and very digestible. Don’t miss the pizza Don Salvo, star-shaped and half margherita, half calzone. Pasta starters are equally good, with paccheri cooked to Neapolitan perfection.
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RECIPE
THE ROMAN COUNTRYSIDE SORA MARIA E ARCANGELO WHERE
via Roma, 42 Olevano Romano (RM) 069564043 soramariaearcangelo.com POINTS ON THE GUIDE
THE TEAM
Capitaining the joyful brigade of Sora Maria is Giovanni Milana, who with years of sacrifice, research, work and the occasional imprecation, has transformed his family room, "in the contemporary quintessential osteria of the Roman countryside" with no useless mannerisms, and in constant evolution. In the kitchen, to support him, his legendary mother, Rita, 60 years in the kitchen, who still prepares by hand the ancient recipe (1921) of the "Cannelloni". In the dining room, enthusiasm and sense of hospitality are present thanks to Danilo and Roberto, who know very well what we're talking about when we say the word "wine". PRODUCTS
Always looking at the excellence of Lazio, local producers and Slow Food Presidia. In his (little) free time, Giovanni scouts agricultural and pastoral inspirations in and around Lazio. In the dishes it's easy to note the accents of the area's best local products (lamb, tripe, ricotta, wild greens...). BEST DISHES
“Il Cannellone”, unmovable traditional family recipe. Also, the pork liver with apples cooked in its net, also called the "foie gras of the Romans", a fine lamb burger cacciatore.
FETTUCCINE, PORCINI, SWEETBREADS ingredients for 4 400 g hand-rolled egg fettuccine 400 g porcini, chopped Garlic cloves in their skins Extra virgin olive oil Parmigiano Reggiano Salt, pepper and mentuccia 200 g veal sweetbreads 80 g dried ricotta ghee flour veal stock or white wine Salt and pepper Onion, celery, carrot mentuccia
Clean the sweetbreads and soak them in cold water for 5 minutes. In a large pot put abundant water with a rib of celery, an onion and a carrot. Add the sweetbreads and bring to a boil for approximately 15 minutes. Once drained, peel the sweetbreads. Add ghee in a pan, dredge the sweetbreads in flour, adjust seasoning and brown them in the ghe for a few minutes. Baste with the hot butter until golden, and at the end add a couple tablespoons of veal stock, mixing for a few seconds to coat well. In another pan add olive oil, garlic and sauté until golden. Remove the garlic and add the porcini, adjust seasoning and cook briefly for a few minutes. Cook the fettuccine in plenty of salted water, drain and pour into the hot pan with the porcini, add a ladle of pasta cooking water, a few leaves of fresh mentuccia, the grated ricotta and lastly the sweetbreads. Mix to coat well over vivacious heat adding more ricotta.
by Paolo Cuccia - photos by Andrea Moretti
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GAMBERO ROSSO www.gamberorosso.it SENIOR EDITOR Lorenzo Ruggeri PHOTO EDITOR Rossella Fantina LAYOUT Maria Victoria Santiago CONTRIBUTORS Stefania Annese, Gianni Fabrizio, Livia Montagnoli, William Pregentelli PHOTOGRAPHS AND DRAWINGS Andrea Chronopoulos, Andrea Moretti GR USA CORP PUBLISHER & PRESIDENT Paolo Cuccia Advertising GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. via Ottavio Gasparri 13/17, 00152 Roma tel +39 06 551121 - +39 06 55112206 fax +39 06 55112260 Advertising director Paola Persi email: ufficio.pubblicita@gamberorosso.it Gambero Rosso and are registered trademarks belonging to Gambero Rosso S.p.A. GAMBERO ROSSO is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO S.P.A. 2018. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials. October 2018
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