year 23 - number 151 - november-december 2021 - gamberorosso.it WINE TRAVEL FOOD Let's raise a glass The golden age of Italian wine VINI D'ITALIA CHEF: CLAUDIO MELIS YEARS
TheNewsEditorialWine to Buy Seasonal Cocktail WorldDesignTour. Scandinavia. Heroic wine glasses. From the methanol drama to the conquering of world markets Vini d’Italia 2022 Chef Recipes: Claudio Melis World Wines 5 6 18 19 22 26 42 52 80 88 S OM MA R I O year 23 number 151 november-december 2021 gamberorosso.it WINE TRAVEL FOOD Let's raise a glass The golden age of Italian wine VINI D'ITALIA CHEF: CLAUDIO MELIS YEARS 26 5219 8042
A 35 year long success
Paolo Cuccia
3GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
Gambero Rosso turns 35 this year. We will celebrate this important milestone in our story with various events and publications, but as usual, the month of October that just ended was dedicated to the presentation and awards of the Vini d’Italia guide, which has also reached its 35th edition. Thirty-five years during which we have analysed and narrated the evolution and growth of Italian oenology. An evo lution that has led Italian wine towards global success. The producers and winemakers of the Made in Italy vineyards have invested in quality, managing to bring the nectar of Bacchus to levels that, when we embarked on our path alongside them, was for many a steep mountain to climb. A goal that has been progressively achieved and continues to be exceeded. A quality that is finally beginning to be recognised also in terms of prices, which are still low compared to the overall production and promotion work that distinguishes this sector. As indicated by the sa lute that the Undersecretary for Agricultural Policies Sen. Gian Marco Centinaio address to the producers awarded the Tre Bicchieri by Vini d’Italia guide and Gambero Rosso, for which we are grateful, wine has been successful even during the pandemic, success that which continued and was amplified in the first half of this year. According to the Government’s vision, great lights and new opportunities lie ahead, even if we must be vigilant against those who, for a variety of reasons, consider it even harmful and against the many attempts at Italian Sounding. The debate then con tinued on the issue of how sustainability, in addition to being an essential commitment to protect the environment and the workers, can be a source of further differentiation for Italian excellent producers compared to competitors and countries with less experience and sensitivity, and thus also contributing to the third pillar: economic sustainability. Gambero Rosso pays great attention and great support on labels that are attentive to these aspects. We have been doing this for some time with the selection of the Tre Bicchieri Verdi, which highlight these environmental commit ments, and, as founding members of Equalitas, a company created to promote the certification of the environmental, economic and social sustainability of the wine sector, we see with satisfaction that year after year, adhesions from the production sector are growing. We are increasingly committed to the passion and story of Italian wineries, capable of producing wines that are an expression of territory, biodiversity, climate and the landscape of our nation. Also in this month’s issue we talk about the Italian productions of the suggestive Langhe and Roero areas, Unesco heritage for some time and recognised all over the world. In the following pages we also continue the story of the centenary vineyards of Sardinia and Campania, terroir of ancient wine making tradition. But our story doesn’t stop there. The agri-food production sector is notori ously as important to us as the wine sector and to which we dedicate with equal passion in-depth studies and news reports. In this issue, we illustrate the new frontier for us in the quality dairy sector: milk and cheeses from free-grazing animals, raised on fresh grass and hay. Cheeses that for many represent “comfort food,” a concept that we have analysed and deepened together with the great chefs of the Italian scene.
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The plain of monumental olive groves (Puglia)
The Hills of Prosecco (Veneto)
The alarm of Italian Historic Rural Landscapes (MAP)
The heroic vineyards of Valtellina (Lombardy)
The lemon groves of Amalfi (Campania)
The wheat landscape of Melanico (Molise)
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The dry stone walls of Pantelleria (Sicily)
The centuries-old chestnut groves of Moscheta (Tuscany)
Italy boasts 27 sites registered in the List of Historic Rural Land scapes, which in February 2022, will join to form an Association, with the aim of making political pressure to fuel the debate on the importance of the CAP and the national rural development plan. Although agricultural work is back on track after the restart, in actual fact, there are many harmful trends that need to be reversed. Abandonment of agricultural land, first of all, which moves at the rate of 70,000 hectares per year; and, consequently, the lack of mainte nance that prevents ever more frequent and dramat ic hydrogeological disas ters, even in the face of cli mate change. But where do we find, today, the rural landscapes that have created a system for preserving ancient farming practices? We travel to discover some of the most fasci nating sites of the Italian pen insula.
The high pastures of Lessinia (Veneto)
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In Milan, Leonardo Da Vinci can already boast a vineyard that bears his name, in the centre of the city, whe re the Tuscan artist became interested in viticulture with results that were anything but trivial. And it is in stead in his native lands of Vinci, where today the house museum of the Tuscan genius stands, that the Re naissance master’s olive grove is now reborn, thanks to the interest of startup Ager Oliva, specialised in the recovery of Tuscan agricultural heritage thanks to the restoration of abandoned olive groves. In Vinci, six hectares of land, in disuse for about ten years, have been removed from degradation. Leonardo da Vinci’s olive oil should arrive as early as autumn 2022, and anyone, with an expense of 49 or 59 euros a year, can adopt or gift an olive tree, give it a name, visit it and receive the extra virgin olive oil produced (not only in the Vinci area). ageroliva.it
Leonardo’s olive grove is reborn in Vinci
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An award for excellence from the Edmund Mach Foundation
Not only sports triumphs, musical idols and the Nobel Prize in Physics. The year 2021 in Italy closes in the sign of the consecration of national excellence in several sectors. And yet another recog nition to report arrives in the Trentino of San Michele all’Adige. Eight research ers from the Edmund Mach Foundation - one of the most important research centres on grapevines and viticulture in Italy and Europe - have deserved entry into the “Top Scientists” ranking pub lished by Stanford University, which collects the best 100,000 world re searchers based on the impact of their studies. The Foundation thus continues its research on biodiversity, sustainabil ity, genomics and the food world with greater enthusiasm.
COMIC BOOK BEER
PACKAGING
by Michela Becchi
Lucca Comics is an event that has always gathered comic book fans from all over Italy and beyond. On the occa sion of the festival this year the brewery Birrificio della Granda’s IPA “Original Graphic Novel” was launched, a tribute to the entire universe of comic books. A light IPA with fun, colourful, collectible packaging; a different il lustration that tells the story of the “Girls!” i.e. the female heroes protagonists of the original graphics of the brew ery. A story that will develop in 48 illustrations, numbered and printed randomly on each can of beer.
Squisito Food Lab is the new agri-food hub of the San Patrignano rehab centre, which brings together a dairy, a bakery and a butcher. A structure that aims to improve the professional training activity aimed at young people in rehab progress and at the same time to contribute even more importantly to the self-sufficiency of the community. This, for a company that has always fo cused a lot on the role of food as a tool for social and professional rehabilitation - achieving excellent results in terms of product quality - means being able to ac commodate a growing number of requests from those who want to get back into the game. In fact, the struc ture will involve up to 250 people, a hundred more than those currently employed. The three laboratories spe cialised in the production of cheese, baked products (from piadina to breadsticks, to cookies) and cured meats not only expand significantly, but also acquire more modern technologies and equipment, supporting work that remains artisanal and focused on raw materi als of the territory (cow’s milk, for example, comes pre cisely from the San Patrignano farms, as well as the meat of the pigs cared for in the rehab centre).
w w w. t en u t a l u i s a.i t PREMIO 2017 DES I DE R IU M PREMIO 2020 DE SI DE RI U M PREMIOFRIULANO2021PREMIO 2019 DE SI DE RI U M PREMIO 2018 F R IULAN O PREMIO DESIDERIUM2022 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
TASTE THE NATURE SIP AFTER SIP CITRUSY AND FROMDESIDERIUMMINERALTENUTALUISA
The San Patrignano food community grows with Squisito Food Lab
IS THE PURE EXPRESSION OF OUR TERROIR
Villa Bibbiani. 5 labels for one terroir
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BIBBIANI
1,300 years of history in the name of biodiversity. Villa Bib biani is much more than a winery, much more than an estate. We have to go back to the Middle Ages to trace its origins: the earliest records date back to 767 AD, when the property with the main building was sold to the Benedic tine monastery of San Bartolomeo in Pistoia. The manor house, that still dominates the estate, was built later in the 16th century by the noble Frescobaldi family. The wine pro duction in the last few centuries was first enhanced by the marquesses Ridolfi (who became owners), in particular by Cosimo Ridolfi, a philanthropist with valuable experience in agronomy. We owe to him the great botanical garden surrounding the house, with over 49-acre Italian gardens, as well as olive groves and vineyards. Active since 2018, the current property is owned by a Texan tycoon who carried out a conservative renovation to the house and adjoining areas, which highlights its richness and aims above all at the production of authentic and territorial wines.
The wines come from a 45-acre vineyard, 7 of which are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, the remainder with Sangiovese. Chianti Montalbano is a wine for everyday drinking, a great companion for meals, fragrant to drink and with immediate aromas. There is no trade name for it, since the idea is to highlight Montalbano, the small Chianti subzone where the vineyards are located. Flora is another everyday wine, a saignée rosé made from Sangiovese too. The grapes come from the estate’s highest plots, with freshness being wine’s distin ctive feature. Then there is Treggiaia, a wine that aims to represent the perfect mix of the estate’s two grapes, Sangiovese and Cabernet. Last but not least, two reds from single grape varieties, winery’s flagships in terms of grape selection and price ran ge: the first varietal, Pulignano, is made from San giovese, while the second one, Montereggi, from Cabernet: the former is elegant, deep, with great vertical development, while the latter is thicker and more structured, yet both flawless in their ol factory precision and fascinating in their drinking, sip after ROSSO VILLA
Villa 1,300Bibbiani.yearsin the name of biodiversity
“As we all know, the key to making a good wine is maxi mum respect for the terroir, and we at Villa Bibbiani work solely along these lines,” says Leopoldo Morara, winery’s young oenologist. “We are trying to emphasise the terroir, especially because we really believe in this small portion of the territory, a subzone of the large and well-known Chian ti area. That’s why we first want to produce Montalbano
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Villa
The estate boasts 988 acres of land where, in ad dition to vineyards, olive groves and arable lands, there are important woodlands that preserve the biodiversity of the entire area. The property is do minated by the completely renovated villa, cha racterised by a very linear architecture, with the central block flanked by two wings, like most clas sic Renaissance villas. The very large rooms are embellished with antique elements, with the day rooms (including the kitchen) on the ground floor and the bathrooms and bedrooms on the upper floor. There is also a private chapel dedicated to Saint Teresa of Ávila and a theatre room. Besides the cellar, other outbuildings include the stables, the greenhouses and the oil mill. The garden is a real gem that extends around the villa, mixing lawns, exotic plants and thousand-year-old tre es. The scenery is dominated by a 82-feet-tall stone pine, several cedars of Lebanon, a giant sequoia, a Caucasian fir and a ho venia dulcis originally from China, one of the first specimens introduced to Italy.
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013 NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O219GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X VILLA BIBBIANI
1. Leopoldo Morara, the Tuscan winery’s oenologist
3 4 wines, and it’s no coincidence that most of the 45 acres are planted with Sangiovese. We started in 2018 and the labels now produced are 5: our flagship is Chianti Montal bano, it’s there that we find our roots. We also produce a rosé, a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet, and two redwine varietals from our two grapes, one with Sangiovese and one with Cabernet Sauvignon. Besides, this interna tional grape has been grown in Tuscany for more than 300 years, in some areas very close to us with a very similar climate and soil. In the cellar – he concludes – everything is done to respect the work in the vineyard. The grapes are picked strictly by hand, we only use gravity systems to avoid stressing the berries in any way and perform the marc pressing, a slow and gentle system to bring out as much as possible our terroir in which we firmly believe. We conduct many ageing experiments, yet always bearing in mind the same purpose. From barriques, large barrels, to amphorae, the objectives must be the same: precision, but above all authenticity, essential characteristics for ma king great wines”.
2. the barrel room
4.
- Capraia e Limite (FI) - loc. Bibbiani - 3386004733 - villabibbiani.it
3. Bunches of sangiovese in the rows at Villa Bibbiano The villa dominates 400 hectares of land Bibbiani
Villa Bibbiani. The manor house surrounded by 988-acre greenery and forest
FLORENCE. TEUTONIC PROPERTY, ALL-ITALIAN HOSPITALITY
In Caralte, a small hamlet of Peraro lo di Cadore not far from Cortina, in the heart of the Dolomites, Cristian Beduschi starts his new pastry adven ture with the arrival of December, with the blessing of the Christmas holidays. The master craftsman, chocolatier and pastry chef whose merits have been acknowledged for years, presents himself in the village that has just four hundred inhabitants with a panoramic sales point overlooking Monte Ante lao, offering customers not only the line of products that made him fa mous and appreciated (first of all, chocolates), but also basic necessities for daily shopping, such as milk and bread. And then biscuits, leavened products, twists on traditional cakes, focaccia and sandwiches. In addition to a fun breakfast of champions, de signed for skiers who frequent the slopes, which invigorates with hot drinks, homemade fruit juices and lo cal yogurt, offered together with a comfort krapfen.
cioccolateriabeduschi.com
After Dubai and Copenhagen (last destinations in order of appearance), the first hotel of the German group 25 Hours Hotels , the Piazza San Paolino, made its debut in Italy. Housed in a former ancient monastery, in the his toric complex of the former Monte dei Pegni, steps from Santa Maria Novel la, in the heart of the city. The renovation, inspired by the Divine Comedy written by the Supreme Poet (of which 2021 was the 700th anniversary of his death), designed by the well-known designer Paola Navone and her staff, has given life to rooms with a strong impact, original and unusual. There are 171 rooms, of different types, in two different buildings, which combine comfort, design and attention to detail. For an exclusive stay and a unique experience, book the Casetta nel Giardino, a 360 square me ter villa with equipped kitchen, pizza oven, barbecue, terrace and private swimming pool, a Schindelhauer bicycle and more. At the San Paolino Ristorante , in a surprising covered garden, open all day and open to out siders as well as other food-related realities, boasts a cuisine linked to the season, of taste and substance, easy to use and understand, proposed, in short, far from the fine dining of certain hotels. Then there is the food shop I Golosi , followed by Santo Forno (same folks of Santo Bevitore), gourmet purchases and pit stops with pairings of select glasses, to be enjoyed, if de sired, even in the large terrace at one of the available tables. Finally, lovers of mixed drinks will find great satisfaction (and the right cocktail) at the
THE HOTEL GAZETTE by Clara Barra
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202110GAMBERO ROSSO NEWS
25 Hours Hotel Piazza San Paolino
Breakfast of champions in the BeduschiaccordingDolomitestoCristian
Firenze - piazza San Paolino, 1 055 2966900 - 25hours-hotels.com
Companion Bar
The food market designed by Bourdain makes its debut in New York
www.gamberorossointernational.com/restaurants/
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Several years after his sudden death, when in June 2018 Anthony Bourdain chose to take his own life and shocking his admirers gained in years of honourable career, the globetrotting cook - inimitable gastronomic popularizer - continues to make people talk about himself. After the docu-feature film released last sum mer directed by Morgan Neville (Roadrunner), now the spotlight is back on the city that better than any other he has portrayed, highlighting all the contradictions and triumphs of the restaurant industry. As a matter of fact, in the first months of 2022, the gastronomic hall, modeled on the model of the great Asian markets that Bourdain planned to inaugurate on Pier 57, will finally see the light. While still alive, the author chose to aban don the idea because it was too ambitious, determin ing thus the sinking of an investment that had generat ed many expectations. Now the partners of that never born adventure (Urbanspace and KF See Toh) are de termined to give it a try. Thus the market will debut with about twenty stands inspired by the street food culturein Singapore (recognized as Untangible Unesco heritage at the end of 2020). But in this case, in Mid town, at the heart of Manhattan, between Sixth and Seventh avenue, not far from Times Square.
large vineyard park is divided into different parcels, some of undisputed value and which give life to spe cific crus of Chianti Classico such as Stielle , in Gaio le, a vineyard of seven hectares at 600 meters abo ve sea level (hence the Gran Selezione by the same name); or the vineyards on the Pietrafitta hill in Ca stellina in Chianti, within the vineyards from which the Selezione Capraia mainly hails, where the Ri serva Capraia and the Gran Selezione Capraia Effe 55 are born respectively. «We decided to focus on a select production of excellence aimed at enhan cing our different terroirs. Over the last twenty years we focused on developing a style that enhances in the glass what is most unique, which makes us nonhomologable: our soil. This is why we have started to use less invasive oak to emphasize our soils rich in minerals (marl, alberese and limestone) which allow us to produce very fine, elegant and fruit-
The hills of Chianti Classico in the Rocca di Castagnoli glass
13GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
The hills of Chianti Classico in the Gaiole area are the ideal place to enjoy days immersed in a unique atmosphere in the company of fine wine. Rocca di Castagnoli is one of the oldest estates in Chianti shire and boasts a thousand-year-old Rocca (11th century castle) now used as a guest farmhouse, with 8 apartments, 6 bedrooms and an original pitchershaped pool with panoramic views. The hamlet was finely restored in 1985 by the Calì family - the cur rent owners - who have managed 91 hectares of vi neyards, mainly Sangiovese, since 1981. «We fell in love with the incredible beauty of the territory, so familiar and unique, which prompted us to continue the centuries-old history of Rocca di Castagnoli by starting a profound corporate restructuring process that began in the early 1980s - says Alessandro Calìwith the goal of producing excellent wines by imple menting a sustainable business management.» The
14GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI. The classic line starts with the white il Molino alle Balze IGT , 100% Chardonnay from three different plots (a total of 3.2 hectares). It stands out for its well-balanced mineral character and freshness, and for the perfect integration between oak and steel. A part (about 50%) of the mass ferments in steel, preserving the minerality and freshness typical of the grape, while the other part ferments in small wood barrels in various passages and of various types (mainly acacia and cherry) giving softness and depth .
GAMBERO ROSSO X ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI
rich wines.» All conducted according to the criteria of organic farming: «We have always looked at the territory in a respectful way, aware that to make a good wine it’s necessary to be in symbiosis with the surrounding environment - explains Calì - Obviously this must not be limited only to treatment in the vineyard or to the purely oenological aspect, but to all the activities that make up the work: from the targeted use of machines and tractors so as to re duce emissions, to the obsessive attention to water waste and energy dispersion in all stages of produc tion. For us, organic is an obligatory stage in a longer and more articulated process towards a 360-degree corporate sustainability project.»
The hills of Chianti Classico in the Rocca di Castagnoli glass
ONE WINERY, TWO SOULS
Then there are the Chianti Classicos : we start with the “vintage” version, a fine, elegant and fruity red with a prevalence of Sangiovese, with a balance of Colorino and Canaiolo; it ages for 14 months in large barrels and refines in the bottle for another 12 months: «In our philosophy - com ments Alessandro - the vintage Chianti Classico represents the right thermometer to measure the average quality index of the company, as it is certainly the wine we mostly produce.» The 2017 version won Tre Bicchieri recognition. Then we find the Riserva Poggio a’ Frati , a histo ric company label (which gained Tre Bicchieri with the vintages 2004, 2006 and 2008), produ ced since 1983 from the vineyard by the same name dedicated to Sangiovese and Canaiolo. In
The Chianti Classico Selezione Capraia is a wine that expresses great fruit resulting as full and round with soft and silky tannins. Sangiovese based, it ages 10-12 months in large barrels and then in the bottle for a further 12 months.
this case the maturation takes place in large barrels and tonneaux of seven hectoliters for a period that on average is around 18 months, followed by a further 18 months in the bottle.
The Riserva Selezione Capraia , after 16 months in lar ge barrels and a year in the bottle, shows off more complex and spicy notes while maintaining roundness and fullness.
The Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Effe ‘55 is a full, warm and powerful wine with an important tannic texture. The fine acidity and minerality guarantee a fresh and long finish. Matures 15 months in tonneau and six months in 23- and 32-hectoliter barrels. The 2016 vintage won Tre Bicchieri in the 2021 edition of Vini d’Italia guide.
Another historic label is Buriano , 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the upper part (2 hectares) of the Stielle vineyard. Rest in barriques of various passages, then six months in steel and a year in the bottle: a Cabernet with a very Chianti character. Pratola is the real novelty of the traditional line. Since the year 2000 it has always been a pure Merlot; but, due to climate change and ever higher temperatures, the ripening conditions of this grape have become decreasingly optimal, with high alcohol levels and an unbalanced phenolic ripening: «So we decided to change and focus on a native grape variety of the hi ghest quality: Colorino. Pratola, with the 2018 vinta ge, was transformed into a 100% Colorino which is aged in second and third passage barriques. It is a full, soft and round wine with a pleasant tannic note that makes it structured.
The Chianti Classico of the Rocca di Castagnoli line also includes a Gran Selezione . This is the Stielle , co ming from a vineyard, dedicated only to this label, of about seven hectares located in Gaiole in Chianti, at 600 meters above sea level: 100% Sangiovese, a clone developed by the company together with the Univer sity of Arezzo, RC1.
15GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
SELEZIONE CAPRAIA. The Selezione Capraia co mes from a small plot of Castellina in Chianti: «The idea of differentiating two types of Chianti Clas sico starting from the dif ferent territories was also anticipatory compared to what recently approved by the Chianti Classico Consortium with the UGA (Additional Geographical Units) which see, among others, the mentions of Gaiole and Castellina,» explains Alessandro Calì. The diversity of the latter compared to other muni cipalities in the Chianti Classico area can be traced back to various pedocli matic factors: the altitude between 200 and 320 me ters; the composition of the soils made of tuffaceous sands alternating with clayey sections, very generous in quality and quantity; the exposure of the southwest side; the hottest temperatures during the sum mer but with ample ventilation. «These are characte ristics that allow the wines of Capraia to maintain, faithfully to its terroir of origin, great structure while remaining sunny and warm, with soft, sweet tannins, which give a very high pleasure to drink without ever losing power and longevity.»
«This wine, made from Malvasia Lunga and Trebbiano, undergoes a light maceration. The goal is to achieve the right balance between this process, which in the extraction phase gives the tannic contribution that lends structure and complexity to the wine, and the acid note that balances the matter giving the wine freshness and drinkability.»
Tempi: “natural” limited edition labels
NOTTE TEMPI
The hills of Chianti Classico in the Rocca di Castagnoli glass
There are many projects at stake in Rocca di Castagnoli. Among these there’s one that is particularly interesting. For some years the winery has been working on a new line, separate from the “classic” Rocca di Castagnoli. We are talking about Tempi, a range of wines (a Sangiovese-based red and two whites, with limited editions), made in an artisanal way with the aim of en hancing both an agricultural management aimed at valorising old clones that have always been cultivated in the company’s properties, as well as methods of vinification (such as manual fulling and destemming) and materials (cement, amphora and cocciopesto) of the past: «The Tempi project was born with the aim of experimenting and rediscovering the wine of the past, what is now being called “natural.” The idea of the Tempi line - which includes a Sangiovese, a Trebbiano and Malvasia based wines with light maceration (Notte Tempi) and a Sauvignon - is a tribute to the first great family that introdu ced Rocca di Castagnoli to the world in the 18th century: the noble Florentine family of the Tempi.»
ALTRI TEMPI
Rocca di Castagnoli Gaiole in Chianti (SI) - loc. Castagnoli 0577731909 - 0577731004 - roccadicastagnoli.com
«The separate processing of these sauvignon grapes was a real surprise: from a vineyard of a few rows planted in 2010 a unique aromatic profile emerged that we decided to vinify in purity - explains Calì - We organize a deliberately early har vest (18-25 of August) and this is done to preserve the aromatic and fresh part typical of the grape which, due to the early harvest, develops a low alcohol content (11.5°). The fresh note is given by the marked acidity that makes the wine vertical while maintaining unconventional aromas and scents for a Tuscan white.».
16GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X ROCCA DI CASTAGNOLI NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
CHIANTI CLASSICO TEMPI
«A Sangiovese produced from an alberello-system vineyard of not even four hectares. Partially manually harvested and destemmed, alcoholic fermentation in open barrels and malolactic fermentation always in barrels, but closed - says Alessandro Calì - After which the mass is transferred into cocciopesto and cement containers for 24 months; a further refinement of 24 months takes place in the bottle. The interaction with the wood takes place during the fermentation phase, reaching a perfect degree of integration. The maturation of the wine in cocciopesto allows a micro-oxygenation that maximizes the complexity of the fruit without releasing any hardness that the wood may risk releasing.»
di Manduria Sessantanni ‘18 SAN MARZANO
PrimitivoBUY
via Monsignor Bello, 9 74020 San Marzano di San Giuseppe (TA) Tel. price:bottles:www.sanmarzanowines.com099/957418130000026.00euros
Among the most important cooperative wineries in Puglia, San Marzano draws on the support of 1,200 growers who work about 1,500 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards, located mainly in San Marzano, Sava and Francavilla Fontana, grow in red, calcareous soils and see a significant presence of old Apulian bush-trained vines. The nearly 30 wines produced exhibit a modern style, with the main objective being a combination of alcoholic exuberance, freshness of fruit, pluck and immediate expressiveness.
The Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni ‘18 once again proves that it’s a high-level wine, with its great richness and volume adorned by jammy notes of black plum, coming through mellow, generous, with a long finish in which a clear, sweet nuance emerges.
THE WINE TO
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202118GAMBERO ROSSO NEWS
SEASONAL COCKTAIL by Paola Mencarelli
THE BARMAN: Considered one of the most talented Italian barmen at an international level, Matteo Zamberlan, aka Zed, has an enviable resumé, studded with awards and important work experiences. Third place at the Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition in 2012, second place at the Diplomático World Tournament in 2013 and America’s World Champion at the Belvedere Martini Challenge in 2015. He worked in Japan alongside Maestro Hidetsugu Ueno at Bar High Five in Tokyo and then moved to New York for four years, passing from Joe Bastianich’s Del Posto, to The Dead Rabbit and BlackTail. He was a consultant for Zuma and Armani Ristorante, where he focused his work on Amari, his great passion. Important international magazines such as Drinks International, Bartenders Magazine and BarLife have written about him. Gaz Regan mentioned his cocktails in the book “101 Best New Cocktails” and in 2015 he was named Best Italian Barman Abroad by Bargionale. Since 2019 he has been Bar Director of The Court, a lounge bar with a cosmopolitan atmosphere and a breathtaking view of the Colosseum within the five-star boutique hotel Palazzo Manfredi in Rome, immediately winning 71st place for Top 500 Bars and the recent entry into the 50 Best Discovery of The World’s 50 Best Bars. With “The Great Book of the Italian Amaro” published by Giunti Editore, Matteo aims to raise awareness of the world of bitters, its history and the many ways to enjoy it neat or mixed.
n 2016 Naren Young, Bar Director of Cafè Dante in New York, asked me to cover a week of shifts. Given our friendship, and the importance of the bar, I couldn’t help but accept. While working at Cafè Dante I was impressed by the high quality of the cocktails offered, including an exceptional Truffle Sazerac. Naren, in addition to having great charisma, had developed interesting flavour extraction techniques and his drinks were an incredible testimony. For me that week was an important source of inspiration. His Truffle Sazerac has remained etched in my memory and, years later, combi ning my great passion for good food with my memories, I thought of The Truffold Fashioned: an Old Fashioned which, thanks to the fat washing technique with whi te truffle butter, wants to reproduce the same pleasant sensations generated by a plate of risotto or tagliolini with fresh truffles.”
Mix infused with white truffle butter
Glass: Old Fashioned Technique: Stirring
Matteo Zed The Court, Palazzo Manfredi, Rome
SPIRITS
4, 5 cl Bourbon & Cognac
"I
Absinthe Flame
SEASONAL COCKTAIL by Paola Mencarelli
Lorenzo)DiAndreaby(photo 19 NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
Garnish: Truffle Chip
1,5 cl Amaro Vallenera with black truffle
1 cl Truffle Honey Syrup
TRUFFOLD FASHIONED
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“A magical place”, as Stefano defines it, but also a place steeped in history that continues to live on thanks to se rious and far-sighted entrepreneurial actions. It was purchased by Anna’s father in the 1970s and then properly managed by the new generation. Wine is at the heart of the estate, with Sangiovese being the protago nist, but spelt and ancient grains, as well as extra-virgin olive oil and pre cious saffron are also grown here.
Estate’s wines
Six were the Castello del Trebbio’s wines tasted and reviewed in the recently published Guida Vini d’Italia 2022. It starts with a Brut Me todo Classico made from Chardonnay and Trebbiano: impeccable carbonation thanks to 30 months on the lees and great drinkability. The white Congiura is a blend of Riesling and Pinot Grigio, a vital and fragrant wine with floral and herbal notes. Four are the reds and their flagship is the Chianti Lastricato, a Riserva that encom passes all the aromas and flavours of the Rufina subzone, one of the most important in the Chianti area. Then there is Pazzesco, the re sult of a special blend of Syrah and Merlot. Sangiovese has returned to the forefront in the Le Anfore selection, a joint project by all the estates, overseen by Elena Casadei, Anna and Stefano’s daughter. The aim is to bring out clearly the territory’s strength and the vines thanks to the aging in amphorae. It ends with an enveloping red wine that symbolises the combination of tradition and innovation, De’ Pazzi, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah.
Then there is a holiday farm built from former farmhouses, with ro oms overlooking the vineyards and olive groves. Everything is carried out
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O2120GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X CASTELLO DEL TREBBIO
History and magic in the glasses Nature according to Castello del Trebbio
Castello del Trebbio is Stefano and Anna Casadei’s great project, an estate that extends over 865 acres, 148 of which are planted with vines.
3 according to sustainable principles, starting from the vineyard and the countryside (this and other group companies espoused a philosophy enclosed in a patented handbook, the Biointegrale®) and arriving at the conservative restoration of the architecture and the use of renewa ble energy; here everything must fol low a sustainable thought both at an environmental and economic level because – as Anna and Stefano Ca sadei like to remind us – “to be Bio integrale you have to think and act in a Biointegrale way”. The handbook came out in 2013: “We started with
- dcasadei.it
Built in 1184 on commission of the noble Florentine De’ Pazzi family, in 1478 Ca stello del Trebbio was a strategic location during the planning of the ‘Congiura de’ Pazzi’ (Pazzi conspiracy) that took place in the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence. Today, it is a thriving organic wine estate just a few kilometres from Florence, a true agricultural organisation that does not lack accommodation facili ties: wine tourism experiences (tours, ta stings, cookery courses) and the opportu nity to stay in the scattered holiday farm, created from the property’s former farmhouses, that allow guests to expe rience first-hand the sustainable commit ment of this reality.
2. Panoramic view of the estate, whose land is cultivated according to the Biointegrale® philosophy’s sustainable principles.
3. A glimpse of Castello del Trebbio del Trebbio Pontassieve (FI) - via Santa Brigida, 9 - castellodeltrebbio.it
organic farming, then we introduced some biodynamic practices, but we felt the need to go further and lay down some guidelines that would mark a turning point in the activi ty management. Here at Castello del Trebbio – Anna continues – our aim is to bring out the Chianti Rufi na territory as much as possible. We do this through Sangiovese, but also through a number of international grape varieties that can highlight the potential of this area: this is how the blend of Syrah and Merlot gave rise to Pazzesco, while Riesling and Pinot Grigio gave rise to Congiura”.
Castle’s accommodationfacilities
The other companies and the Tre Bicchieri
The Casadei family brand en compasses all the companies in the group and it is managed di rectly by Anna and Stefano. If Castello del Trebbio can be con sidered the parent company, the other two are equally im portant, one always in Tuscany (Tenuta Casadei in Suvereto) and the other in Sardinia (Olia nas in Gergei inland). As already mentioned, if Castello del Treb bio’s objective is the territorial enhancement through the combination of tradition and in novation, at Suvereto the focus is on international grape varie ties. Syrah, Merlot, but also Mourvedre, Grenache, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot are the red protagonists, while the whi te ones are Sauvignon, Semillon and Viognier. The Filare 18 from the 2019 vintage (100% Caber net Franc) was awarded the Tre Bicchieri in the 2022 guide. Olianas, on the other hand, was founded to produce quality wi nes from native grape varieties: we are in Sardinia and Can nonau is the undisputed king, alongside Bovale and Vermentino.
1. The Casadei family
Castello
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O2121GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X CASTELLO DEL TREBBIO CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013
22GAMBERO ROSSO DESIGN NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 65 2 3 4
DESIGN by Sonia Massari
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Marlene @riscartifestriscarti.comScalise
FROM WASTE TO TASTE
Vincenzo Sorrentino is a young food designer from Campania who often seeks inspiration in the shapes of his homeland. This time he has given structure to five terracotta tools that allow diners to interact directly with the ingredients of the dish. They are called Clay Food Play and are hy brid instruments (almost a cross between cutlery and plate) that aim to reduce the distance be tween man and his food.. recreation-food.com
Casa Mondo was the first virtual exhibition of Maxxi in Rome, hosted on Instagram starting in June 2020. Casa Mondo: Food is the narrative essay by the famous food designer Mar ti Guixé that talks about what food is and what it rep resents in the 21st century, proposing a theory of the foodhome relationship and new means of use, also in light of the pandemic that has transformed our daily reality. Casa Mondo: Food is the first book in the new Unevaluated Essays series, edited by Martí Guixé himself. corraini.com
RiscARTI, through various forms of arts (visual, entertainment and performance, workshops and experiences), promotes creative recycling also to educate for a more sustainable future.
GESTURES THAT BECOME SHAPES
RiscArti International Festival was born as an exhibition of creative recycling and demonstrates how discarded objects can be ennobled. Their creations document that “things” are victims of the very mate rial they are made of: it’s necessary to re think them in order to make them useful.
bassestittgen.com
@1_2_3_lune@lecolededesign@@hugo_maupetitvivian_fischer_
DISCARD: THE ART OF BEING SUSTAINABLE
Barbara Gollackner’s Salzburg design studio presented at the latest edition of the Vienna Design Week a collection of kitchen and home items made with industrial and domestic food waste. The studio collaborated with Austrian chef Martin Kilga to create Wasteware, a range of bowls, plates and cutlery made from leftover food. The waste is dried and mixed into a paste, then 3D printed..
CIRCULAR CHEWING GUM
1 3 6 2 54 NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202123GAMBERO ROSSO DESIGN
IT TAKES AN EGG
German designer Basse Stittgen tackles the problem of food waste by proposing tableware made exclu sively with eggs… that are expired. His project is called ‘How Do You Like Your Eggs?’ and it focuses on food. The designer collects leftover eggs from local bakeries, then breaks them and divides the egg white from the yolk and shell. The egg whites are dehydrated and ground into a powder, while the egg shells are crushed into small pieces. Yolks and shells are then mixed together and placed in an aluminum mould, which is then hot pressed at 200 degrees. Stittgen transforms discarded eggs into a series of gold-coloured bio-plastic egg cups and saucers, modelled with patWches of broken egg shells.
THROUGHWORLD,THEDISCOVERINGHOMEFOOD
barbaragollackner.at
Design students Hugo Maupetit and Vivian Fischer developed a method for collecting discarded chewing gum and turn ing it into colourful skateboard wheels. The French students mounted special collection panels in urban areas in Nantes, France, where passersby could stick their used gum instead of discarding it on the ground. The collected gum was then shredded together with the collection panel itself, which is produced in PMMA (poly methyl methacrylate) a plastic mate rial capable of stabilizing chewing gum during melting. A true virtuous example of circular economy: even the obtained wheels themselves are recyclable!
Think of the Cuvée Rosé ‘13: an embroidery of fruit, flowers and spices, with a subtle and infiltrating carbonation, deep and graceful in the pure and harmonious aromatic develop ment. The final note of wheat is unforgettable. Tre Bicchieri in the Vini d’Italia 2022 guide. “The extraction of colour is im portant, but comes as a secondary goal, for us finesse is more important. The grapes are brought to very low temperatures, we always chill the grapes before pressing them. Those of the rosé are brought to 0°C for one night, so they break those pockets of water attached to the grape, which slightly tear
The Riesling championship
Oltrepò Pavese is not only the cradle of Italian pinot noir, with its 3,000 hectares of vineyards, but also an area suited for riesling, a variety that has long been valued by the Calatroni family. The Riesling Campo Dottore ‘20, rich in flavour and persistence, was re cently awarded as the best Riesling in Italy in the Na tional Riesling Competition in South Tyrol. It is the first time a Riesling from Oltrepò Pavese wins. “We al ways work on a base Riesling, the Campo Dottore, and a Riserva. In the former we have slight over-ripen ing, it’s a clone of Alsatian origin that has been in Ol trepò for the past 40 years. A classic vinification in re duction follows, constant batonnage and we keep it on the fine lees. And then we put in the bottle, no aging in oak. The riserva, on the other hand, has at least 2-3 years of aging. We make two harvests, one earlier and one overripe, to then assemble and go into the bottle,” said Stefano. And in production there is also Riesling Italico, in this case it’s a short Classic Method, 9-12 months on the lees, to take full advan tage of the variety’s aroma and freshness.
24 GAMBERO ROSSO X CALATRONI NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O21GAMBERO ROSSO
La vie en rose of brothers Calatroni
MV or Montecalvo Versiggia. “We call it Mon Carul, both terms indicate the mountain, the former in Latin, the latter in the ancient dialect of the Ligurian tribes,” Stefano Calatroni told Gambero Rosso. We are in the upper Valle Versa, in Oltrepò Pavese, where the productive heart of this beautiful winery develops, led by Cristian and Stefano Calatroni, with their fa ther Fausto in the countryside and mother Marisa and Elisa in the very popular agriturismo farmhouse lodging, increas ingly marked by eco-sustainable choices and the belief in its sparkling wine vocation, with the Classic Method with long refinements and search for the best crus. This is the area of choice for Pinot Noir, here the temperature ranges are fero cious, soils rich in limestone for perfect ripening: healthy, vi tal grapes, with high acidity and full aromatic richness. With out the slightest doubt, one of the best areas for the Classic Method of Italy. In particular, it is very difficult to find Ital ian rosé bubbles of such elegance as those produced here.
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3. The bottles
1. The vineyards
the skin, which becomes thinner and softer. Thus, when we press them, with a particularly low yield and not high pres sure, we’re already extracting colour, without then having to macerate. We can say that it’s a cryo-maceration with intact skin,” said Stefano. His brother Cristian’s hand is really felt in the aromatic delicacy and carbonic texture. Today, the entire production of the Classic Method is around 50,000 bottles per year, from the 2018 harvest they will all come out as Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Docg, while organic certification came in 2019. In production, Poggio dei Duca ‘16, the new entry, also stands out. “Born as a cru, thanks to years of clone research and different practices, we opted for steel where we vinify a single vineyard, the highest, at 540 meters, always only pinot noir, with 10% of the grapes that ferment in cask to give balance to a bubble of great freshness and tension,” added Stefano. The Pinot ‘64 Brut is also noteworthy, with a creamy and iodized gait, while the NorEma ‘18 shows a particularly good hand on the pinot noir in rosé, delicate and at the same time vibrant. The Mon Carul brand collects the rest of the production, in which in teresting interpretations of Rhine Riesling have been add ed for some time to wines from natives from beyond the Po Valley (such as Bonarda and Sangue di Giuda).
At Calatroni on weekends the winery turns into a wellkept farmstead eatery. Everything revolves around the range of wines, with Stefano’s mother and Cristian in the kitchen. “The wine tasting takes place in the morning or in the afternoon, with an hour’s visit to the vineyard and cellar and then experiencing the classic tasting, 4 tast ings and 4 wines. Otherwise for lunch we have a menu of pure territory with products from producers that share our same philosophy, and which work organically and with denomination products, from Slow Food to the great flavours of our lands. Five courses and five wine pairings,” said Stefano. While dinner, in summer, moves to the vineyard, with the farm taking home among the rows of pinot noir.
4. The agriturismo farmhouse
25 GAMBERO ROSSO X CALATRONI NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O21GAMBERO ROSSO
For reservations call Elisa at 3480195118
The agriturismo farmhouse where everything revolves around wine
ViaCalatroniCanova 7, 27047 Santa Maria della Versa (PV) - www.calatronivini.com CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013 3 4
2. Stefano Calatroni in the heart of the Grave
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
Considering the quantities, again accord
ASKSSTOCKHOLMFORSUSTAINABILITY
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202126GAMBERO ROSSO
Scandinavia is hungry for a greener Italy
T
On October 27th Gambero Rosso pro posed the classic stage in the ‘minimalist’ ballroom of the Grand Hotel Stockholm, thanks to the excellent performance of Italian wine in this country. Sweden, in fact, imported wines from Italy for 120 million euros in the first seven months of 2021, with an increase compared to 112.9 million in 2020 equal to 6.3%.
he world has restarted with huge force. The confirmations come first of all from the ex port numbers: in the first sev en months of 2021, Italian wine exports grew by 14.5% in value over the same period of 2020: 3.98 billion euros, an absolute record, even higher data for 2019. At the same time, for many years there has not been so much enthusiasm in the sector, there are many wineries that have totally run out of stocks, espe
From Stockholm to Copenhagen, Gambero Rosso returned to the northern capitals, where imports from Italy grew by more than 6% in 2021. Organic, sustainable wines awarded by the Vini d’Italia guide among the criteria for being chosen from the Swedish monopoly, while in Denmark small importers and the demand for natural products are growing
cially thanks to the wind blowing from abroad. And during the international stages of our world tour we are reaping generous optimism, enthusiasm that goes far beyond a simple restart. The Tre Bicchieri tour in Scandina via recorded a number of visitors that were decidedly higher than the precovid average, with about 50 wineries as protagonists and a very large audience, divided into tiers between operators and winelovers.
MANCINI IN STOCCOLMA: THE INSTITUTION
ing to Istat data, the volume of wines shipped from Italy to Sweden amounts to 37.4 million liters, an increase com pared to the 36.8 million liters in the corresponding period of 2020.
sire for Italy, I’ve never seen such a flow, with so many operators in the first tier, we have not had a moment’s respite.”
It’s difficult to find another city in the world with such a high level of Italian dining. The best restaurant in town? It’s Tèrra according to the Top Italian Restaurants guide, the only one awarded with Tre Forchette, thanks to the creativity of Valerio Serino and the work of Lucia de Luca in the dining room. Winning Due Forchette ia talented chef Nicola Fanetti, with Brace, together with Achille Melis and his historic San Giorgio, opened in the city in 1985. Che Fe, Barabba and Rufino, with Due Gamberi, stand out among the bistros. Among the pizzerias, Surt takes Due Spicchi for the first time, same sco re for Da Gallo and Mamemi, respectively Neapolitan and Roman style dough for the second. Finally, the Villa Sandi Best Contemporary Wine List Award enhances the research of Nebbiolo Wine Bar, capable of bringing small virtuous producers, a by-the-glass offer with honest markups and a perfectly tailored offer to the warm and informal setting.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202127GAMBERO ROSSO WORLDTOUR
The volume data is also positive: in fact, the passage from 22.98 million liters to 25.13 million liters in the first seven months of 2021 is also a fact.
About 650 kilometers divide Stockholm and Copenhagen. On October 29th the Tre Bicchieri event was staged at the Odd Fellow Palaet in the Danish capi tal, in an unusually mild climate. Here too, the export numbers are smile-wor thy. From January to July, according to Istat data analysis, Italy exported wines and musts to Denmark for a value of 88
COPENHAGEN, CAPITAL OF NATURAL WINE
The market denotes a character opposite to that of Sweden: the number of small importers is infinite, for an extremely segmented and varied market, which reflects well an exceptional gastronomic offer, which has also withstood the pan demic crisis well. “Here natural wines have taken over completely, with excess es that we are trying to stem with a
ITALIAN FLAVOURS IN COPENHAGEN
Systembolaget, the alcoholic monopoly in Sweden, works more and more close ly with Italian wineries, favouring those who work according to sustainable cri teria, with great attention also to the weight of packaging and a look at the evaluations of the Vini d’Italia guide, often used as an access criterion. Sofia Ander, journalists from DinVinguide: “I very much appreciated the clear and gastro nomic character of the wines being tasted, the monopoly is expanding the portfolio of Italian wines even with less known areas.”
million euro, an increase compared to the 82.6 million euro in the same period of 2020. The increase is equal to 6.5%.
Mancini is confirmed as the best Italian restaurant in Sweden, the only one awarded with Tre For chette in the Top Italian Restau rants for Stockholm; followed by Pietro Fioriniello’s La Cucina Ital iana in Goteborg, with Due For chette. Among the new entries, we point out Macelleria in Stock holm, with Un Gambero rating, Kol & Kox and Il Garage del Gus to, awarded with Una Bottiglia. O’ Pizzicato surprises, winning Due Bottiglie and the Villa San di Best Contemporary Wine List award for a brilliant, varied se lection and a rich and curious by-the-glass offer. As a pizzeria, 450 gradi conquers Due Spicchi, excellent venue of former foot baller Jesper Blomqvist.
Two seminars conducted by the writer: two journeys, together with producers, from South Tyrol to Sicily. Lorenzo Ma rotti Campi, awarded with Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, adds: “There is a great de
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202128GAMBERO ROSSO EVENTS COPENHAGENPHOTOGALLERY
“It’s an important market where consumption occurs mainly at home. We must work to create value, even on the rosé front which has positioned itself at low prices,” commented director Luca Giavi, present at the event. “Prosecco as an aperitif is becoming a ritual even here in Norway, it has a lot to do with the desire to marry the Italian lifestyle. We really missed not being able to visit your country,” added Celine Engelstad, sales manager for Toast Group.
PROSECCO’CLOCK IN OSLO
“A fast and effective way to get to know a large number of operators in a short time, without wasting time and energy, commented Fed erico de Cerchio, owner of Torre Zambra. On the 29th, the entire Abruzzese team was the protago nist of a large call for tastings within the Tre Bicchieri event.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202129GAMBERO ROSSO WORLDTOUR
Doing business while having fun. This is the idea behind the wine dates formulated by Gambero Ros so. On October 28 it was the turn of the Consortium for the Protection of Abruzzo Wines which brought 15 producers to Copenhagen, who met 15 Danish importers. Five min utes each to get to know each oth er and present just one wine, and then move on to the next meeting. Sitting facing each other just like on a speed date, looking for that spark to create a relationship, in this case of commercial nature.
ABRUZZO WINE DATES
reasoned list,” said Leon and Anto nio, of the award-winning Nebbiolo Wine bar. “As a tourist office we are fo cusing a lot on the theme of Copenhagen as the capital of natural wine, not only in Europe, but in the world, just look at the variety of labels from all over the world, with Italians who are often not even within our borders,” added Giuseppe Liverino, International Press Manager of AmongVisitCopenhagen.thestandspresent, Valtène
si, the region of Abruzzo and an ad hoc station dedicated to the Made in Vicenza association, which promotes the peculiarities, not only oenological of the Venetian province, from olive oil to coffee. During the event, three sem inars were held, conducted by yours truly and the curator of the Vini d’Ita lia guide, Gianni Fabrizio. The first dedicated to Valtènesi, an increasingly defined and identifying rosé: a model for those looking for a rosé played on elegance and detail, with soft colours and clear and complex aromatic pro files. Ten producers from the Consor tium arrived in the city for the event,
A Prosecco Doc feast in the heart of Oslo. This is what hap pened on October 25th at the Campo’ de Fiori restaurant directed by the ebullient Fabio Pezzoli. A dinner dedicated to the flavours of Northern Italy, paired with 8 Prosecco Doc, including 4 Rosé, a first on the Norwegian market. In Nor way, we went from 584,000 bottles exported in 2011 to 4.3 million in 2020.
led by Juri Pagani and Paolo Pasini. “It will take some time to understand the quality level of these wines in Denmark, but today’s tasting was nothing short of surprising, also because many wines are still very young and will give their best in a few years,” commented journalist Pe ter TheHartig.second masterclass was dedicat ed to Barbera d’Asti in collaboration with the Barbera d’Asti and Vini del Monferrato Consortium, in the pres ence of the President Filippo Mobrici: 10 Barbera d’Asti wines up for tasting, on a journey from 2019 to 2015 por traying the different styles and the aging potential of the main Monfer rato variety. “We dedicate the best soils and exposures to Barbera, it is the wine that represents us: over 50% of exports go abroad and Denmark is a fundamen tal country for us,” added Mobrici. The last seminar was instead a journey up and down the Italian peninsula, Italy in a nutshell, culminating with the Red of the Year in the Vini d’Italia guide: Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suo lo 2016 by Argiano.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202130GAMBERO ROSSO EVENTS COPENHAGENPHOTOGALLERY
Worldtour CALENDAR 2021/2022 2022 2021 22 TORONTO - Canada 24 CALGARY - Canada trebicchieri Experience Top Italian Wines Roadshow 13 0NOVEMBER2 KYIV Ukraine trebicchieri Experience - WS Ukraine SHANGHAI - China trebicchieri 30 MIAMI - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 11 SYDNEY - Australia Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 TOKYO - Japan trebicchieri BEIJING - China trebicchieri 09 MELBOURNE - Australia 25 NEW YORK - USA 23 CHICAGO - USA 16 LOS ANGELES - USA 18 SAN FRANCISCO - USA DATES TO SHOW UP DECEMBER02 SAN DIEGO - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 trebicchieri Experience - Vinexpo 26 DUSSELDORF - Germany 15 PARIS France 28 BOSTON - USA Vini d'Italia Experience - ITA 16 PRAGUE - Czech Republic 14 TOKYO - Japan trebicchieri 2021 GamberoRossoInternational YOUR PASSION IS OUR INSPIRATION www.gamberorossointernational.com 25 HONG KONG - China trebicchieri Experience - Vinexpo 16 SINGAPORE Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 19 HO CHI MINH - Vietnam Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 03 COPENHAGEN Denmark 30 STOCKHOLM Sweden SEOUL - Korea Top Italian Wines Roadshow 1404MAYAUCKLAND New Zealand 14MARCH SALZBURG - Austria 18 WARSAW - Poland Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 01JUNE OSLO - Norway trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 03 MUNICH - Germany trebicchieri 2022 07 ST. PETERSBURG - RUSSIA trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 09 MOSCOW RUSSIA trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION SAO PAULO - Brazil 01 MEXICO CITY Mexico Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14APRIL trebicchieri 202210-13 VERONA - Vinitaly 31JANUARY BASEL - Switzerland 0FEBRUARY1 ZURICH - Switzerland ROME - Italy trebicchieri 2023 premiere 30 HOUSTON - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 Worldtour CALENDAR 2021/2022 2022 2021 22 TORONTO - Canada 24 CALGARY - Canada trebicchieri Experience Top Italian Roadshow 13 0NOVEMBER2 KYIV Ukraine trebicchieri Experience - WS Ukraine SHANGHAI - China trebicchieri 30 MIAMI - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14
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Italian Wines Roadshow 1404MAYAUCKLAND New Zealand 14MARCH SALZBURG - Austria 18 WARSAW - Poland Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience Vini d'Italia Experience
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2022
SEOUL
2022 trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION trebicchieri 2022 trebicchieri 2022 Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 01JUNE OSLO - Norway trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 03 MUNICH - Germany trebicchieri 2022 07 ST. PETERSBURG - RUSSIA trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION 09 MOSCOW RUSSIA trebicchieri SUMMER EDITION SAO PAULO - Brazil 01 MEXICO CITY Mexico Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14 Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14APRIL trebicchieri 202210-13 VERONA - Vinitaly 31JANUARY BASEL - Switzerland 0FEBRUARY1 ZURICH - Switzerland ROME - Italy trebicchieri 2023 premiere 30 HOUSTON - USA Top Italian Wines Roadshow 14
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202132GAMBERO ROSSO
Vini d’Italia 2022 guide at Ukraine Wine & Spirit in Kyiv
Tre Bicchieri Masterclasses sold out and the Special Awards of the Guide 2022 as well. “Participating in it was the best way to understand the philosophy behind the Wine Guide, the evaluation criteria, your approach to tasting” said Alina Vairaukh, wine-communicator and wine-tour organizer who came spe cifically from Odessa (where a few days later she organized a tasting of the Tre Bicchieri 2022 kindly offered by the pro ducers present in Kyiv). “The surprising thing about your Guide is that there is great space for the classic areas, but every year we find lots of new products: wines, vines, producers and emerging terroirs.” The Gambero Rosso World Tour continues. Upcoming Stops: Toronto and Calgary in Canada, followed by Miami and San Di ego in the USA.
“Italian exports are growing fast in Ukraine”, Tony Corradini, director of the Kyiv Ice, told us during the event “We are the sixth country in the world by volume of trade with this Nation, and the third in Eu rope, after Germany and Poland. If we look at wine, then, we are the leader in imports, with over 33% of the total, and in 2020 we nearly reached 50 million euros, doubling the 2017 figures.” Behind us sits France, with a turnover of almost 50% lower, and then Georgia.
The event was also an opportunity to reward Kyiv’s restaurants, bistros, piz zerias and wine bars selected by the Top Italian Restaurants in the World guide. Here in particular there is a very lively food and wine scene, made up of many new restaurant openings, many of which are international and Italian cuisine in particular. The Wine Bar Ital ian Edition in particular also obtained the Villa Sandi Contemporary Wine List Award. The wines of Villa Sandi - which in the 2022 Guide names the special “Bubbles of the Year” awardand those of Borgo Conventi were the protagonists with six labels of a special Masterclass held by Diva Moretti Po legato with myself and Vitalyi Kovach, a well-known figure of the Ukrainian sommelier scene. “It was nice to find you in Kiev” told us Olga Pinevich-Todoriuk, editor-in-chief of Drink + magazine, one of the most important in the sector “Af ter the beautiful days spent in Rome for the
by Marco Sabellico
presentation of the 2022 Guide it is a plea sure to once again taste the great Italian wines and transmit the values that are the core of the Italian wine scene.”
U
kraine Wine & Spirit 2021 is a certainty. The most im portant trade fair in the country has now taken off, with over 500 exhibitors including wine, food and spirits, and was the ideal setting for Gambero Rosso to present the 2022 edition of Vini d’Italia, in its thirty-fifth edition. Here, for the first time, thirty Top producers awarded in the Guide presented their labels to the public and professionals.
WORLD TOUR.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202133GAMBERO ROSSO WORLDTOUR KIEVPHOTOGALLERY
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013
A new sweet red made in Puglia to toast with the Christmas desserts
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202135GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO DI TUTELA PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA
From the north to the south of the country there are several sweet wines, and the denomi nations that protect them, pro duced with white berried gra pes. On the other hand, the reds are more rare: among these is the Primitivo di Manduria Dol ce Naturale, a Puglia Docg, the first recognised in the region (in 2011) dedicated exclusively to the production of this type, and un doubtedly a stand-out. Despite the great success of its “dry bro thers” (Primitivo di Manduria Doc and Primitivo di Manduria Riser va Doc), Primitivo Dolce Natura le boasts a special place among Italian wines. It reaches its pairing climax with dark chocolate, who se consumption is growing in our country, in particular one with a high percentage of cacao be cause the balance between the bitter and the sweet and distin ctive flavour of this voluptuous red, form an inseparable duo, wi thout one or the other yielding. An excellent ally also for enjoying dry pastry desserts in the best possible way, it is also a persua sive meditation wine thanks to the high alcohol content always supported by structure and fla vour. Production starts with 100% Primitivo grapes grown exclusi vely in the provinces of Taranto and Brindisi. Vinification follows the withering on the vine or on racks. The result is a wine of great charm and texture, with an in triguing sweetness.
As with all great wines, the nobility of Primitivo di Manduria is the result of the interaction between the pe
PRIMITIVO, AN ANCIENT WINE AND A CONSORTIUMMODERN
Primitivo di Manduria was born in an area between land and sea, pun ctuated by dry stone walls, built and maintained with painstaking patien ce, which limit thousands of plots tended with passion and centenary patience: expanses of vineyards, mo stly trained in alberello, both in the more modern forms, that is, ordered and sequential, but also in the most ancient, disorderly and irregular; vi neyards that reach the sea and alter nate with olive trees, masserie farms, palaces and churches.
GAMBERO DI TUTELA PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA
This is the place for Primitivo, the grape variety which, as the name suggests, ma tures prematurely and is harvested as early as the end of August, which is born and thrives in a geographical area with a well-defined cultural and folkloristic im print that from Taranto travels southeast. The Primitivo area has its culmina tion in Manduria, but there are 18 municipalities in the provinces of Taranto and Brindisi that produce the great Doc which can currently count on 5,000 hectares of vineyards, an area that sometimes presents itself with red soil due to the presence of ferrous skele ton, with calcareous growths linked to the subsoil, and which become looser, practically sandy in the districts closest to the sea, where the grapes convey fasci nating marine and brackish shades to the fruits
A new sweet red made in Puglia to toast with the Christmas desserts
culiar pedo-climatic environment of the area of origin, the grape variety and the winemaking techniques of the winemakers.
In recent decades, thanks to the careful work of winemakers who have favoured low yields and careful vinification, come intense and powerful red wines, but of great elegance and finesse. With the birth of the Doc in 1974, Primitivo di Man duria experienced, and still lives, a phase as a protagonist. It is currently the meditation wine par excellence for its perfect balance between its components: acidity, dry extract, al cohol, bouquet and colour, much loved abroad, precisely because of these cha racteristics.TodayPrimitivo di Manduria is the Puglia Doc that falls into the Top Five of the most exported wines, with a
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013 “Progetto di promozione Radici Virtuose”, attività finanziata a valere sull’Avviso MIPAAF n.10900 del 17.02.2020 “Contratti di Distretto Xylella” recante le caratteristiche, le modalità e le forme per la presentazione delle domande di accesso, nonché le modalità di erogazione delle agevolazioni di cu al DM. n.7775 del 22/07/2019. NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202136GAMBERO ROSSO
The origin of this grape is obviously very ancient: it was probably the Il lyrians who imported their grapes from Dalmatia to Puglia; other sto ries trace the origin of Primitivo to a magnificent botanical garden of the Austro-Hungarian emperors, from which originated plants directed to Puglia, which were named Primiti vo, and plants directed to California where they took the name Zinfan del. The only certainty, historians ar gue, is that Primitivo made its entry into Puglia around 1700. The plant is resistant and does not need synthetic treatments, also thanks to the ideal Salento climate. So much so that, as a popular pro verb says, “on the feast of San Gio
turnover of around 182 million euro.
ROSSO X CONSORZIO
The Primitivo di Manduria Protec tion Consortium, founded in 1998, binds, supports and enhances the great Dop, and gathers a team of
vanni the vineyard closes and you go to the sea,” that is, from the end of June to the end of August there is nothing more to do in the vineyard: the sun takes care of helping both grapes in ripening that the plant to defend itself from adversity. The strength of the variety is transferred to the grape and the grape, in turn, transfers it to the wine. The nectar obtained from it has an intense red colour, warm, sumptuous and enve loping, with a fruity bouquet of plum and cherries in alcohol, blueberry jam, to which are added withered flowers, spicy notes and unmistaka ble scents of Mediterranean scrub.
62 wineries and over 1,800 wine makers. Even at wine tourism level, the area attracts a growing number of enthusiasts thanks to the mixtu re of ancient peasant practices and modern winemaking techniques, to be experienced during the tours in the vineyards offered by the various wineries, in addition to the various tastings combined with local ga stronomic products. The link betwe en wine and territory is very close, which gives these places a particular charm, which tells an ancient and fascinating story that can be traced back to the Museo della Civiltà del Vino Primitivo museum (in Mandu ria), a true concentration of testi monies on this wine. TUTELA PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202137GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO DI
salmì (jugged); baked lamb or kid meat. The younger versions are also suitable for pasta courses with meat sauces or legume soups. If aged for a long time it is an ideal conversa tion wine but also accompanies se lections of long-aged cheeses. Small curiosity: Primitivo di Manduria is among the favourite Italian wines in Asia because it goes wonderfully with Asian cuisine, characterised by strong, spicy and often hot flavors which, as an accompaniment, need a warm, intense, soft wine. that’s also glyceric.
In the game of pairings, the wine needs rich and succulent dishes, with intense flavours. Grilled red meats but also game, such as wild boar, also grilled or braised, or in
In the mouth it is rich and deep, with enveloping fruity aromas, good tan nic texture and balanced freshness. The final persistence for a wine of this structure is surprising.
The 2021 harvest
A new sweet red made in Puglia to toast with the Christmas desserts
- consorziotutelaprimitivo.com NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202138GAMBERO ROSSO GAMBERO ROSSO X CONSORZIO DI TUTELA PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA
«Compared to past years, we started harvesting about 10 days late - ex plains Francesco Delle Grottaglie, President of the Primitivo di Mandu ria Consortium - The quality of the grapes immediately proved to be excellent from a phytosanitary point of view. Initially we thought of an uncertain vintage, due to the high temperatures in July and August but, in the end, technology and expertise saved the quality. The grape har vest first concerned the coastal areas, immediately after the alberello and, finally, the guyot or spurred cordon systems. I thank all the winema kers and professionals who dedicated body and soul to the grape har vest and to technology in the vineyard. And thanks to our wineries that, with passion and skill, produce this extraordinary wine. An excellence Manduria 099 9796696
PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA IN FIGURES 62 wineries 1.800 grape growers circa 5.000 hectares of vineyards 18 municipalities between Taranto and Brindisi 28 million bottles 182 million in turnover 70% export quota Consorzio di Tutela del Primitivo di Manduria -
(TA) Uggiano Montefusco - c.da Piscine -
The mosaic of the Friuli territory between Grave and Collio Goriziano
160 hectares of vines Friuli Grave Goriziano
in the Doc
GAMBERO ROSSO
The company’s vineyards spread over two quite different territories, both, however, capable of giving great re sults. Most of the hectares of vineyards are located in Risano around the main headquarters, in the heart of the Grave, on a flat land of alluvial origin, mostly gravelly and clayey. Different situation for the Collio, in Spessa di Capriva, along the eastern border with Slove nia: Pighin here has 30 hectares on a splendid limestone hill. The natural amphitheater of Spessa di Capriva and the silt and fine gravel soils of Risano offer different products, which the winery offers in different lines but dedicating the same passionate commitment: «The respect we have for these two territories is the same, knowing that we are talking about two morphologically different areas with their specific characteristics. If the Collio is international ly known for the richness of its unique terroir, the Grave, for their part, presents a soil that offers a starting point ca
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It was 1963 when the three brothers Luigi, Ercole and Fernando Pighin ac quired an estate of over 220 hectares that belonged to a noble Friuli dynasty, the Agricola family, and founded their company. And it was precisely in this decade that the company took shape: first the winery project entrusted to a world-famous architect like Gino Val le, then the acquisition of another 30 hectares of vineyards (with cellar) in another prestigious area of the region, the Collio, on the hills of Spessa di Capriva. Since 2004, the entire management has passed to Fernando’s family, who, with the invaluable help of his wife Danila and their son Roberto, continues this long tradition of success. «Family management is a double strength for us - says Roberto Pighin - From a human point of view it represents an inestimable value, a guarantee of continuity and constant presence of those who founded this exciting entrepreneurial reality.» And he continues: «The other ad vantage is technical: in fact, being able to produce wine from our grapes allows us to have total control of the en
30 hectares of vineyards in the Collio
X PIGHIN NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O21GAMBERO ROSSO
IDENTITY CARD
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tire supply chain, for us a guarantee of that quality consistency that we have always sought.»
800,000 bottles produced 20 labels produced 75% quota export 40
Crackling debut for the Collio Bianco Soreli ‘18 which im mediately earned a place among the Tre Bicchieri finalists on its first outing. The choice of the grapes the wine is made of - Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Friulano«was dictated - says Roberto Pighin - by the experience gained in the vinification of these native grape varieties: Friuliano gives personality and structure, Malvasia and Ri bolla give freshness and aromatic complexity. To preserve the varietal characteristics, we have chosen to vinify a part of the grapes in steel and a part in tonneaux and bar riques to give the wine more body, structure and longevi ty.» The wine presents itself with an aromatic bouquet that evokes summer haymaking, wildflowers, sunflowers, ripe fruit and Malaga rum raisin gelato, while on the pal ate it is enveloping, fragrant and yet fresh and dynamic.
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2. Roberto Pighin in front of the 17th-century Venetian-style villa in Risano, in the heart of the Grave
3. The harvest
Vini d’Italia 2021 COLLIO BIANCO SORELI ‘18
GAMBERO ROSSO
X PIGHIN NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O21GAMBERO ROSSO
1. The vineyards at Spessa di Capriva in the Collio Goriziano
4. A bottle of Collio Bianco Soreli ‘18 - a blend of Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Friulano - which garnered Pighin the Due Bicchieri Rossi 2021
Fernando Pighin & Figli - Pavia di Udine (UD) - fraz. Risano - viale Grado, 11/1 0432675444 - pighin.com
pable of producing wines whose freshness, pleasantness and balance is increasingly intercepting today’s consumer trends.» All with an eye to sustainability: «A value we have always believed in - confirms Roberto - five years ago we planted the first seven-hectare vineyard which was sub sequently converted entirely to organic with rooted vines resistant to mildew and powdery mildew attacks not sub ject to to health treatments thus making the organic as pect of the final product more credible. To guarantee our production, since 2007 we are also GLOBALGAP certified and since 2016 also SQNPI, the national quality system for integrated production. In the countryside we use tar geted and non-polluting products. In this regard, we were among the first in the region to adopt a spraying system which provides for the recovery of excess nebulisation, thus saving over 40% of the product treatment.» And what does the future foresee? «Once the modernizing renovation in the Risano winery will be completed, we will proceed with further technological innovations in the Capriva nel Collio winery. Then, we will proceed with additions to our vine yards with the planting of six hectares of native vines: refos co, friulano, ribolla gialla and malvasia.»
words by Stefania Annese and Loredana Sottile disegni di Gaia Guarino
HEROIC CONQUERINGMETHANOLFROMGLASSESWINETHEDRAMATOTHEOFWORLDMARKETS
Vini d'Italia by Gambero Rosso has reached its thirty-fifth edition: three decades and a five-year period in which it has captured (and continues to do so) the present and the future of quality wine made in Italy after the dramatic methanol scandal, the watershed of modern production. Since then, Italian oenology has moved leaps and bounds and is aiming decisively at the future, increasingly establishing itself on foreign markets. Here's how it went and how the future looks...
who never tired of knocking door to door to talk about the production of this beautiful country. And - grant us a pinch of pride - also thanks to those who, precisely in those diffi cult years, decided the time had come to be there for and with the producers: first with the Gambero Rosso insert in the Manifesto paper (forerunner of the magazine you have in hand) and immediately afterwards with the guide Vini d'Italia: a 348-page tome di stributed in 12,000 copies, with just (but by then there were many) 1,500 wines and 500 producers. Today, at the age of 35, there are 25,417 wines present for 2,634 producers. However, it would be simplistic to measure these past 35 years in terms of figures, be cause it's not just the numbers written on the cover that have changed. The way of ma king wine and the way the market receives it has changed. Consumer tastes, places and methods of purchase, attention to the envi
T
STORIES44GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
he Berlin Wall was dividing the world into two parts, Italy was in the First Republic and many of the current new generations of writers of Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia guides, now in its thirty-fifth edition - for reasons of age - had not yet tasted their first glass of wine. Looking at it from this special 2021 observa tory where the 2022 guide was born on, the end of the 80s seems to belong to another century. "A century," that was difficult for Italian wine: the methanol scandal had clip ped its wings even before it took off, leaving it in a crisis of turnover and credibility. And yet, that flight eventually lifted off. Thanks to those who believed in Italian wine despite everything, to all those wineries that have contributed to raising the quality; of the system of denominations which marked a clear break with the past; of those importers
THE PATH TERRITORIALTOWARDSIDENTITY
Bettina Schleicher, Beverage Lidl Italia purchasing manager
Andrea Gabbrielli
A 35 YEAR LONG MISSION
«I believe that the main challenge in this pe riod of time has been to move from rather ho mologated products lacking a true territorial identity to more original and diversified wines according to their territory of origin - explains oenologist Lorenzo Landi - The change of wi nemaking techniques over the past 30-40 years reflects the change in the style of wine. At the beginning of this process, the aim was above all to produce wines free of defects and pleasant to drink, which were the minimum characteristics required by consumers in a period in which Italy was facing large international markets. Then
LIDL MAKES ITALIANNESS ITS STRONG POINT IN THE WORLD
When the first issue of Vini d'Italia was presented - of which I was editor-in-chief - we were still struggling with the mournful aftermath of the methanol wine nightmare, which exploded in March 1986 due to a group of criminals, which had made consumers wary, Italian and foreign, marring the national wine sector. Bonn, capital of West Germany - then it was still called that way - de cided to block our wine at the borders, not trusting the results of the tests performed by the Italian laboratories that certified its proper form. Over the course of a short time, exports dropped from 18 to 11 million hectoliters. It was a debacle. Starting again was not easy: rebu ilding the relationship of trust took time, more incisive organization of controls, understandable and verifiable quality choices. In this scene, from the end of the 1980s onwards, the role of Gambero Rosso and Vini d'Italia has been to select and make known the best productions, first supporting the rebirth and then accompanying the growth of Ita lian wine, in Italy and all over the world. With the various editions of the guide (in Italian, English, German, Japanese and Chinese), with the various Tre Bicchieri World Tour and, subsequently, with the Top Ita lian Wines Roadshow and the Vini d'Italia Tour, our oenological but also gastronomic excellences, have been accompanied all over the world. Having brought the charm of Italian wine to life, with its stories of large and small wineries dedicated to quality, was a mission that began many years ago and continues today.-
Since the 1990s Lidl Italia has always had a department dedicated to wi nes, but it is especially in recent ye ars that we have increased the offer, increasingly focusing on quality, and moving - also visually - towards a veri table wine store in the shop, with a assortment lin ked above all to the peculiarities of the individual territories. The proposal, therefore, beyond some classic references, varies from region to region. A choice that's been appreciated and rewarded by our consumers, today more than ever in search of nati ve and local products.
35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE 45GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
On this journey, Gambero Rosso has been by our side and has accompanied us since 2014, certifying the quality of our best labels. Furthermore, thanks to our presence in 30 countries, we can affirm that we promote and encourage the spread of the best Made in Italy also abroad. In fact, "Italianness" is our strength, both in terms of wine and for all the other gastronomic excellence of Italy.
we went towards techniques that helped the production of more concentrated wines, the real "must" between the 90s and the early 2000s. Fi nally, in the last 15 years, techniques that were more respectful of territorial diversity and ex pression of the terroir became more prominent.» These were the wines that gradually found the appreciation of consumers, as underli ned by Marco Reitano, chef sommelier of the La Pergola restaurant of the Hotel Rome Cavalieri: «In the past, the culture of wine was linked to a few reference territories. It took ye ars before there was a different mental openness and the vocations of lesser known territories were also discovered. Certainly, in this process, the role of wine guide books was fundamental, because they cleared the divide between the dif ferent areas, but also clarified the styles of pro duction. In addition, year after year, guides nar rated the evolution of wines: from technical and muscular, to more current, territorial and
ronment and health have changed. Thirty-fi ve years ago the world of wine had just emer ged from the Middle Ages and was heading towards its Renaissance. Today it is living its contemporaneity.
Once upon a time there was a sort of Cinde rella. At the moment she didn't realize it very well, but she was also a bit Snow Whi te and a bit Sleeping Beauty. Because her DNA of popular and bourgeois con sumption and production with a composite genesis were mixed with genes of genuine nobility, but also the effects of a stuporous syndrome that was not congenital but had lasted long enough to seem so. It was not the kiss of a prince that woke her up and made her aware of herself, as it happens in fairy tales. But rather a slap in the face. As it happens more often in reality. Big trouble. The shock of methanol. There, as is almost the rule that happens in this country of ours, which brings out the best in misfortunes, the reaction was immediate and extraordinary. A shot of pride like a true princess. The birth of coherent and determined agglomerations (the super tuscans, the so-called Barolo boys, the explosion in suc cessive stages of Montalcino, the vital manifestation and growth of Franciacorta, the story of Ferrari, the re-disco very of Amarone) capable of providing a connective tis sue to runners almost isolated until then (historical Tu scan families, the Biondi Santi and the Valentini, the top Piedmontese, Asti and Marsala and something more) and to give a signal to the rest of "Enotria" re-emerged from sleep. The after is well known. Renaissance, re-entry by
STORIES46GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
CINDERELLA TO PRINCESS
mineral. Otherwise, without the expert tasters, it would not have been easy to extricate oneself from the ever-increasing number of labels and wineries that have sprung up in these 35 years.»
nomy, because it represents an attraction for enthusiasts. In short, in recent years, the world of wine has grown a lot, increasingly valuing the territory in which they are born and the people who live there.»
right into wine elite, competitiveness, exports (2 billion in 2001, more than triple in 2021) and dialectical presence, but as protagonists, in all subsequent steps. The "parkeri zation" and muscle wines; the de-park and the search for refinement and elegance; the territorialization of identity (of which we are epigones) and the creative, technical and realization mastery that we have never lacked. And which has allowed the chorale today almost full of quali tative production in all regions, and the launch of areasEtna the top case - neglected, extreme, extraordinary. Up to the last two major themes: environment and climate and the so-called "bubble of bubbles" triggered by Prosec co, and of which we are therefore leading actors. There is still much to - and can - be done. And, having changed in turn the means and technological supports, today as then the criticism - the Guides, however rethought and spread, and at the start of the journey, an essential element of the propellant that powered the engine - has and will play a role. The more central it is, the more capable it will be of adapting its message to contemporary languages and perceptions. Without, however, abdicating his professio nal prerogatives and bending to become - as someone foreshadows in the new universe of @influencers - a mere persuader or, worse, a pure conveyor belt.
Antonio Paolini
A quantitative growth, therefore, also ac companied by a considerable qualitative growth, as the sommelier Alberto Santini of the family restaurant (with the unforgetta ble Nadia and Antonio) Dal Pescatore di Can neto sull'Oglio is keen to highlight: «Today's aficionados have the privilege of tasting excel lent quality wines because technical knowledge is widespread and the producers have speciali zed. Today, therefore, there are more wineries of excellence than in the past. We must also consi der that, in addition to the quality of the wines, there is increasing attention to the quality of the environment: a growing number of wineries are designed by internationally renowned architects and this is also a driving force for the local eco
THE ROLE OF WINE SHOPS AND THE CHALLENGES FOR THE FUTURE Looking back, we have certainly come a long way. But where are we on the path to qua lity? We asked Paolo Trimani, owner of the Rome wine shop that bears his surname and who, in addition to being one of the cult places for lovers of good wine, is one of the oldest Italian wine shops, business dating began to distant 1821: «A thousand years seem to have passed since 1986, quality wine has captured the attention of an ever-growing public, enthusiasts often teach professionals. Telling what happened to today's natural na tives in the 1980s sounds like science fiction,
Riccardo Ricci Curbastro
even if the big names were already known and appreciated. From this point of view, continui ty remains fundamental and the value of time irreplaceable. The future? In an increasingly integrated context, the producers of large vo lumes of wine will undoubtedly dominate the scene with homologated and reassuring wines, but only the specialists will produce bottles with a strong personality and character, those for which - those who love wine like me - continue to leave the house in the morning.» Fewer years, but the same passion, belongs to Signorvino which since 2012 has been conquering the main Italian cities with sto res, also proposing formulas based on multichannels, with targeted marketing in physi cal stores, but also at visual level, on the website, with an online channel and with so cial media. «The consumption of wine has had a great increase in recent decades - explains
If we looked back trying to outline the history of the last three decades, we would imme diately notice the enormous distance that separates today from the recent past. Between yesterday and today the only common feature is made up of wines and vi neyards, while everything else has changed. In the first place, the market has changed, both for the size it has become, and for the consumption patterns it has impo sed. Even the wine itself has changed: from a traditional food, always present on our tables, to an expression of pleasure, a cultural and element of status. In Italy, in the last three decades, per capita consumption has decreased by about two thirds, but paradoxically its symbolic impor tance has grown, just think of the great development of the sector's marketing and communication. In addition to the market, the regulatory framework has been completely revolutionised: Community Regulations have defined a homogeneous legal framework for the whole of Europe, followed by national laws. I mention two above all: the definition of the role of the Protection Consortia, made more incisive than in the past; and the mandatory adoption of a systematic procedure for the control and certification of wines with Designation of Ori gin. The new rules have made it possible to rebuild a new relationship of trust with consumers by guaranteeing the
brand manager Luca Pizzighella - especially in referen ce to a target that has always expanded. Even to day many people approach wine and these are decidedly different profiles: no longer just adults and professionals, but also younger people, non-experts and newbies intrigued by a product that certainly flows in our veins, as Italians, but which still must be known and promoted. Our goal continues - is to give visibility to companies and niche territories that struggle to promote themselves independently, but also to bring value to Italian wine and talk about it in its complexity. For this reason, in our sto
35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE 47GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
DOCG, DOC AND IGT. THE SUSTAINABILITY CHALLENGE
origin, traceability and quality of the wines with the De Finally,nomination.afinal
note: despite the successes, the supply chain has not stopped thinking about the future. The emergence of the climate issue has prompted us to re flect on what tools were needed to address it, aware that both the long-term equilibrium of the planet and the me dium-term equilibrium of companies depend on this challenge. This awareness prompted Federdoc and Gam bero Rosso, in partnership with other parties, to create Equalitas a few years ago, a company with the specific task of preparing a sustainability standard tailored to the wine sector. A unique attempt in Europe and well ahead of its time, which however made it possible to develop an advanced and innovative protocol, aligned with the most recent scientific achievements and able to concretely "measure" the commitment, results and objectives of companies and territories towards a truly sustainable pro duction.
THE CHANGE OF COURSE OF LARGE-SCALE DISTRIBUTION
res we take care in gui ding consumers in the moment of choice, offering a wide se lection of very vari ed references in terms of type and prices, or ganizing themed mee tings with the producer, tastings and lessons that are often free of charge. Practically, work similar to the Gambero Rosso wine guide, which re mains a great reference point for those who do not want to make a mistake with the wine for every occasion, for the customer who wants to try something new and relies on the experience of professionals.»
«During the lockdown - says Francesco Scar celli, head of wines, beers and alcoholic beve rages for Coop Italia - the large-scale retail tra de has become the first sales channel ever thanks to an assiduous albeit regulated attendance, sin ce there is an increasingly wider range of people which tends to reproduce in a domestic key the pleasures that were normally delegated to other places. At the same time, the halt of the Horeca channel and the impossibility of guaranteeing foreign volumes have favoured the approach to large-scale distribution of many companies that up to pre-Covid were completely unrelated to the modern uninteresting channel.» But if the pan demic acted as an accelerator, the path had
STORIES48GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
ITALIAN WINE AN IDENTITY ASSET
Riccardo Cotarella oenologist
There is a common element that links the trade fair system with specialised publi shing, an even stronger link in the case of Veronafiere-Vinitaly and Gambero Rosso. I believe that in these past 35 years both have contributed to the growth of a sector which is now a symbol of the Made in Italy. Bu siness and knowledge have in fact gone hand in hand in the world of wine, and this is also thanks to the cul tural commitment of a Group that over the years has proved to be a successful publishing model. At the end of the 1980s the sector was very different: Vinitaly was just making its debut and the guide Vini d'Italia was too, while the sector was already important but still very de pendent on internal consumption that was double of what it is today. The propensity to export did not reach 20% and, except in rare cases, there was the risk of a dangerous homologation of production based on large volumes rather than quality. Then the cultural and commercial leap came thanks to producers in the first place, to the institutions of the sector and also to those who have brought value to the identity and quality of Italian wine.
These thirty-five years of Italian wine certainly represent a sort of cultu ral revolution, the renaissance of a sector that has gone from being a blurry reality - we could say, wi thout infamy and without praise at best - to a truly precious product for our nation, but above all an identity asset of thousands of national Throughoutterritories.thisjourney, Gambero Rosso had the merit, 35 years ago, of perceiving the need and desire of this heritage to be told in the way it deserved, helping to give it the visibility it enjoys today all over the world.
Giovanni Mantovani General Manager Veronafiere
SPREADING WINE CULTURE: THE ROLE OF TRADE FAIRS AND PUBLISHING
What will the wine of the future be like? From the Small Ancient World to the Global Village
Over time, wine shops have increasingly sought a multi-channel approach and large-scale retail trade has expanded the quality approach, but the real novelty of these 35 years is represen ted by e-commerce. From that distant 1986, in which Gambero Rosso (publishing house) was born and the Vini d’Italia guide was being wor ked on, it took 13 years before Italy was able to sell its first wine online. On the other hand, we can say that Gambero Rosso is the same age as the Italian web: the first connection to Arpa net from Italy was on 30 April 1986, but only in 1992 did the word "internet" appear for the first time in the Italian dictionary. Imagine if back then one could imagine that one day wine purchases could be made from a laptop. Yet, in a few decades everything has changed and those two worlds - food and wine journalism which then only traveled on paper and that of the web with still very few followers - would have become part of the same equation. «Over the last few decades the consumption
49GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
BIRTH, DEVELOPMENT AND EVOLUTION OF E-COMMERCE
Thirty-five years is a long time, especially in a world in such rapid and constant evolution like the world of wine. Having in your hands a criti cal tool such as our Vini d’Italia Guide to Italian wines is essential to re construct the exciting path of Italian oenology in recent decades. Above all, it helps us decipher long-term trends, read the isolated exploits of an area and style, and can somehow help us understand how this industry is likely to grow in the near future. In thirty-five years, however, epo chal changes have occurred, affecting the vineyard, the cellar, but also the evolution of the consumer's palate and the international scenario. Italian wine has grown in image, in the number of quality wineries, in the market percentages all over the world thanks to the very strong and passionate commitment of all operators in this field. Thirty-five years ago the "rating" of Italian wine placed wine among the commodities on the world market. Today our best bottles are sold on international auc tions like those of our beloved-hated French cousins. There has been a constant and generalised work that quickly brought us from the strawcovered flask to the rank of great classics which has been truly exciting. For producers and operators, of course, but also and perhaps more so for those of us who witness this growth from a privileged observation point. 500,000 tastings. We tried to figure out how many wines we evaluated during this fascinating journey. Consider that at the beginning we star ted from tastings that were quite limited to the classic areas with notes taken ink on paper, and typed up with a legendary Olivetti Lettera 32 typewriter. But almost immediately we entered the computer age, even if the creation of a single centralised database only goes back to 2001. Well, in our database today there are 244,965 wines, but, I repeat, we are talking about wines evaluated only from 2001 to the present day. It's therefore not presumptuous to assume that more than 400,000 wines have been reviewed on our pages over the course of these last 35 years. And that, considering the tastings of wines that did not obtained "guide" scores, we can easily count beyond 500,000. A simply impressive num ber, which we have arrived at thanks to the more than 200 passionate collaborators who have worked with us over the years, allowing us to draw a precise picture of the Italian wine scene in recent decades. It's all in the volumes of the Guide, although the richest, most updated and fa scinating is the one sold in bookshops today, the 2022 edition, with over 25,000 tastings, 476 Tre Bicchieri bottles and 12 extraordinary Special Awards. This is a photograph of the present. But on the basis of past ones we can venture a projection with sufficient reliability.
35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE
already started some time before, as Scarcelli himself recalls: «In these 35 years, the supply of large-scale distribution has changed a lot, fol lowing the evolution of food habits and lifestyles of the consumer: per capita consumption has drastically reduced but the quality of drinking has increased, shifting habits from large formats and table wines to classic 750-denomination bot tles: drink less but drink better. The possibility that large-scale distribution of offering excellent product selections in a simplified (not trivialized) way, has undoubtedly allowed more people to acquaint themselves with wines that previously did not emerge from a very limiting logic of ter ritoriality, or that addressed a small group of in siders. In my opinion - concluded the Coop ma nager - if the producers will come after us making the product speak, perhaps trying to increase the perceived quality of the shelves and help us in en hancing and marketing the territory, the grocery store will increasingly develop into the wine mar ket of the future.»
VINI D’ITALIA 2022: AT GAMBEROOPENRINASCENTEDAYSWITHROSSO
of wine has changed completely and e-commerce has played a fundamental role in this change,» said Marco Magnocavallo, CEO of Tanni co, the online wine shop that, born in 2012, today offers 15,000 references from 2,500 wineries and which closed 2020 with a turno ver almost doubled compared to the previous year (pre-pandemic). «Online sales - explains the entrepreneur - have allowed an increasing shift of consumption towards niche products and brands, previously almost unknown. Thanks to online, in fact, it's possible to access a wider and deeper catalog, without intermediaries and at more affordable prices. Among the trends now more in vogue, there is undoubtedly the increa sing attention to the purchase of Doc and Docg which in the last 10 years have accounted for about 3/4 of total purchases on our channel eve ry year.»
Launch for Open Day with a Gambero Rosso expert in the Rinascente Enoteca (partner of Vini d'Italia guide). In total, two appointments in the stores in Turin and Rome advising and guiding custo mers in choosing the labels that best suit their needs. There's more. The Gambero Rosso tasters carried out masterclasses dedicated to the staff of the wine shop, with the ultimate goal of providing additional tools to improve the wine list.
STORIES50GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
ITALIAN WINE, NEVER THIS APPRECIATED ABROAD
Last but not least, The international market underwent a true Copernican revolution. It goes without saying that, in the 1980s, Italy abroad was still associated with "pasta, pizza and mandolin music." Wine was not on the menus of the best Made in Italy (nor of in ternational foreign restaurants), with some small exceptions for the big brands, as im porter Dominic Nocerino recalls: «I founded Vinifera Imports LTD in Wheaton Illinois in 1979. At that time there were very few Italian wines around, if not the big names and the role of Italian restaurants was fundamental for their diffusion. Personally, in the first years of activity, I followed Gino Veronelli who's book Bolaffi 1972 helped me in finding the small quality wineries that today are world-class names. Then came the
The example of Prosecco. Thirty-five years ago it would have been madness to think that the world of Prosecco would have become a global phenomenon with 700 million bottles sold worldwide annually. Today it's a reality, and it should not surprise us to see the one billion mark exceeded in the near future… The history of Italian wine is becoming increasingly compelling: despite the challenges posed by climate chan ge, the global economic crises, the pandemic, we are moving forward quickly. And we're making increasingly good and fascinating wines, in a country that is the cradle of biodiversity and that the world envies.
Climate change. If thirty years ago climate change was just a pet peeve, today it is a reality, but this has led to a revision of cultivation techniques that give us increasingly precise and punctual wines, in creasingly adhering to the terroir and grape varieties. The interna tional grapes, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot and all the others, after a phase of extraordinary expansion, have resized to the areas where they really make sense and to the territories and denomi nations where they are able to best express themselves with class and elegance. And the same goes for new and small oak barrels, barriques, a symbol of the new Italian oenology of the 1980s and 1990s. The native Italian grape varieties––Nebbiolo, Corvina, Sangiovese, Negroamaro, Fiano, Nero d'Avola, to name but a few––are the real stars of our scene. Not only that: in a world of evolved consumers looking for uniqueness and typicality, it is they who lead the charge and are ensuring success in a world of wine that seems increasingly tired of the standardisation of taste. And they will remain protagonists for decades to come. Precision viticulture. All this will be increasingly supported by pre cision viticulture, which is based more on drones and satellites than on the use of pesticides and chemicals, with the use of increasingly advanced rootstocks responsive to changing climatic conditions. Di sease-resistant grape varieties are slowly gaining ground and will be one more weapon for the wine producer of the future. If we then go into the specifics of the cellars, today we find cutting-edge techniques and equipment, which allow natural and targeted winemaking that requires attention and precision and a minimum, if not zero, use of sulphites.
Marco Sabellico
Sustainability. The niche of macerated wines, of winemaking in am phorae and other alternative containers will grow even if not excessi vely, but the organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard and in the cellar are rapidly increasing. This makes us hypothesize that Italian wine will become increasingly "green" in coming years. All this leads us to tackle a theme that has always been very dear to us: sustainability. This is the real challenge of Italian oenology. A challenge that we are sure to win, given that a growing number of quality producers has em braced this path that not only looks at the vineyard and the bottle but also encompasses the environment as a whole, above all society and communities in which it operates.
35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE 51GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
Gambero Rosso guide Vini d'Italia, which I loved so much and which, from the beginning, helped me in the selection and sale of Italian wines in the States: the very first year I remember buying 1,000 copies of the English version. But, accor ding to many, my destiny as an importer of only Italian wines was already doomed: they gave me no more than six months of activity. And inste ad…» A destiny, however, similar to that of Italian wine abroad which, starting timidly in those years, is now preparing to close 2021 by setting a new record for its exports: 7 bil lion euros, with the USA representing preci sely the first destination in terms of value, while Germany continues to occupy the top of the ranking for imported volumes. «Lea ving behind the period of the methanol scandal, for Italy it was all a recovery, thanks to a precise choice of quality that has never been abando ned since that moment - told us importer for the German market Giuseppe Saitta, who also recalls how the translation of the Vini d'Italia guide into German, starting from 1988, has been a valid help in spreading the word of Italian wine in Germany - It is very important for consumers to have an orientation in the world of Italian wine. Gambero Rosso, in addition to giving an overview of all the re gions and the wines produced, with the awards gives the customer extra security, certifying the quality of production.» The German journalist Veronika Crecelius, correspondent in Italy for Weinwirtschaft is also convinced of this: «The Vini d'Italia guide has been documenting the evolution of Italian wine for the past 35 ye ars. Thanks to the ability to continually renew itself and to a winning team of authors, not only of enthusiasts but also of experts from different schools, it always manages to be both a forerun ner for winemakers and for still unknown deno minations, and to recognize the value over time of the wine establishment.» The rest is history. The past that brought us this far, but also the future one that we will continue to write to gether with Italian wine.
- price 30 € www.gamberorosso.it
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wines wineswineswineriestastedreviewedreviewedtastedinthe finals Tre DueBicchieriBicchieri Rossi Special Awards
d’Italia 2022 del Gambero Rosso pp.
Vini 1,056
25,41747,0002,6342,4584761,98212 VINI D'ITALIA 2022 IN NUMBERS PRODUTTORI263425417VINI 476 BICCHIERIBICCHIERITRE140TRE VERDI 86 SOTTOBICCHIERITRE15 EURO VINI D'ITALIA 2022 ANNUALEPERIODICITÀ
olidity, vitality, enthusiasm. After 47,00 wine samples tasted, we traced the characteristics of Italian wine, capable today of showing off a quality that's widespread in all regions at a level that surprises even the most expert taster. Never before in this edition of the Guide, the 35th since its inception, have we been fascinated by lesser-known and still little-known territories at an international level. The average level is growing, it's enough to count the number of wines that made it to our finals, as many as 1,982. And the distribution of prizes has become increas ingly horizontal: in total the Tre Bicchieri awarded are 476. The producers were able to resume ground since the lost months, they spent more than a year tending vineyards and updating cellars, and the results of this work are evident, especially in terms of awareness: attention to detail, interpretation of the vintage, a new attention to com munication. Renewed optimism is also fueled by the many wineries that presented their wines for the first time, in a refreshing replacement that is good for the whole system, as well as a series of truly brilliant vintages to be jealously guarded in the cellar. Think of the memorable 2016 in Montalcino, it is no coincidence that our Red of the Year is the fruit of a truly extraordinary vintage; but still the generous 2019 that makes you dream big and already offers excellent reds of light and flavour, from Chianti Classi co to Etna. 2018 blows delicately in Barbaresco and Bolgheri, also being noted for the great character of the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. And the great leap in quality comes from the maturity of white wines, finally many wine producers, thanks to the difficulties of these two years, have decided to offer versions on the market at least two or more years after the harvest. Our White of the Year is from 2018, a wonderful blend of grapes grown in Rosazzo, in Friuli. Also the tastings of the 2019 whites have truly bewitched us, from Greco di Tufo to Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, from Falanghina del Sannio with Vermentino di Gallura or Soave Classico: Italian whites need patience and time to unleash their enormous potential. And this is an increasingly clear message in the minds of producers that is finally flowing into consumer choices. Puglia deserves a separate chapter, the region wins two special prizes in the Guide, thanks to the virtuous work of cooperative wineries and family estates that focus on all the value of certain grape varieties that were so far completely unknown: this is the case of susu maniello. As for the world of bubbles, Lombardy is confirmed as the homeland of the Classic Method, with two increasingly solid and suitable territories such as Fran ciacorta and Oltrepò Pavese, which have reached a simply enviable level of quality, with astounding peaks of excellence in regards to all international comparisons. And our Winery of the Year comes right from the shores of Lake Iseo, while the coveted Bubbles of the Year award valorises the profound diversity within the world of Prosecco, in this case a Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze. The Rosé of the Year is the expression of a strong return to the soil in Calabria, very far from the stylistic features of yesteryear, breathing new air and playing rock music in the region: here the wine has the flavour of redemption. Finally, the Sweet Wine of the Year is an absolute surprise: a wonderful Passito produced on the tiny island of Ustica has rekindled our enthusiasm. And with it the desire to travel and share our discoveries around the world.
52GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 STORIES
VINI D’ITALIA 2022. THE QUALITY OF ITALIAN WINE IS INCREASING
Lorenzo Ruggeri
This year, the Red of the Year award goes to Vigna del Suolo '16, an ex traordinary Brunello di Montalcino resulting from an excellent harvest. The location is on the southwestern side of Montalcino, on a spur of rock overlooking the Val d’Orcia. Argiano is one of the oldest estates in the area dating back to 1580. Since the planting of the vineyard its wines have enjoyed great prestige (the poet Carducci also loved them); for some years now following the acquisition of the estate in 2012 by Andrè Santos Esteves, a Brazilian entrepreneur, we have witnessed a real renaissance of the company––which even in the 1980s thanks to the commitment of Noemi Marone Cinzano and Giacomo Tachis a distinguished winemak er––was among the most critically acclaimed. Today it is directed with passion and competence by Bernardino Sani , oenologist and CEO, alongside whom we find Francesco Monari, agronomist. The foundations of this renewed success were laid precisely with the restructuring of the vineyards and the micro-zoning of each parcel. For years the grapes from the vigna del Suolo, which is now 55 years old, flowed into the Brunello, but with the '15 vintage the new selection label was born. «They are the oldest vineyards of the estate» Bernardino told us, «and with our arrival in '14 we immediately realised that they deserved a separate vinification. They are at 320 meters above sea level, on a soil of clayey-limestone marl, a soil rich in skeleton, in fossils that bring us back to when this was a sea bed. The ideal soil to fully express the character of our ancient Sangiovese grosso clones, thanks to the acidic and savoury profile that it imparts to the wines.» After the excellent '15 vintage, here is a dazzling 2016, which literally made us fall in love with this cru, for its richness, elegance and expressive depth. Only some of the parcels of the vineyard converge on this label. Long maturation in 15-hectolitre Allie oak barrels (with the '16 also ovoid barrels appear) and a time in the bottle complete it and prepare it to face the market and the challenge of time.
35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE
RED OF THE YEAR
Montalcino argiano.net(SI)
The wine is announced with a deep ruby colour, and opens with a seduc tive bouquet with ripe cherries and small fruits turning to more complex notes of tobacco, floral and scrub, and then fade into spice and citrus peel. The mouth is wide, deep, clear, supported by a rich acidic structure that sup ports an intact and pulpy fruit and tannins of spectacular finesse. Rich but not dense, it is assertive, deep, very elegant, with an extraordinary vitali ty that predicts glo rious aging. We will talk about it for a long time...
Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo ’16 - Argiano
SPECIAL AWARDS
Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo ’16 ARGIANO
Rosazzo Terre Alte ’18 - Livio Felluga
WHITE OF THE YEAR
54GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
Cormòns liviofelluga.it(GO)
Terre Alte 2018 si presenta con una magnifica tonalità paglierina ancora caratterizzata da tenui riflessi verdo lini. Il naso è un tripudio di aromi di frutta con forti richiami di salvia ed erbe officinali, arricchiti da lontani ricordi di can nella (una parte del blend fa legno). Il palato è ric co e generoso e dopo un ingresso ancora giovane, si ingentilisce progres sivamente sofferman dosi su una piacevole sensazione grassa a testimonianza de gli oltre nove mesi sulle fecce. Il finale è radioso.presagirepersistenteparticolarmenteelasciaunfuturo
Rosazzo Terre Alte ’18 LIVIO FELLUGA
Never was a special prize more deserved. In forty years of history, Terre Alte has become a true icon of Italian white wine, even as a symbol of Made in Italy abroad, like an Armani suit. We are faced with one of the rare labels that made many foreign wine lovers change their minds - for a long time convinced that our country was only suitable for the production of great reds - about the undoubted quality potential of Italian white wines. Noth ing could be more correct: at the foundations of this process was a region, Friuli, which from the mid-1970s paved the way for the stylistic renewal of Italian whites, in order to adapt them to the taste of the times. Enough ex cessively light wines and, above all, enough oxidized and rustic whites. No more "obvious" materia, therefore, even though this epochal change start ed from the Livio Felluga winery. Coming from Istria in the second half of the 1930s to continue the work of his ancestors, Livio Felluga, now consid ered the patriarch of Friulian viticulture, founded the company that bears his name in 1956 in Brazzano di Cormons. In 2016, at his death, Livio be queathed to his four heirs Maurizio, Elda, Andrea and Filippo almost 180 hectares of hilly vineyards in Rosazzo and surroundings and the famous map of his labels that represents the link to each of his wines with these hills. Terre Alte, among other things, celebrates its 40th birthday. «At the end of the 1970s - said Andrea Felluga, then a teenager - I often heard my brother Maurizio talking to our oenologist about the desire to produce a sort of Superfriulan, a full-bodied white wine capable of aging for a long time in the bottle.» Thus was born, in 1981, the first vintage of Terre Alte. «But I also remember - explained Andrea - that my father, initially skeptical about this idea of wine but convinced after the first tastings, claimed as a man in love with his hills and his land that this new wine be included in the Doc and carry a geographic map on the label.» At the beginning, a few bottles of a blend with Friulano (back then called Tocai) make up the bulk with more than 50% of the cut, with the addition of about a quarter of Sau vignon and almost a quarter of Pinot Bianco, which in fact, it was often confused with Chardonnay in those days by Italian nurserymen. Todaynow called Rosazzo Docg - about 40,000 bottles are produced in a year.
Cartizze Brut La Rivetta ’20 VILLA SANDI
The Bubbles of the Year Award increasingly marks the differences and com plexities within the Prosecco galaxy. In this case, we are in the heart of the municipality of Valdobbiadene, in a micro-vineyard area that outlines an amphitheater of vines that is scenic to say the least, with dizzying slopes. We are talking about the Cartizze hill, 107 hectares of vineyards for a pro duction of 1.2 million bottles. A suitable territory, divided into over 40 own ers, which strongly reminds us of the quality level of a wine capable of becoming a world brand, and by far one of the most famous words of the Italian language in the world. The award goes to the Villa Sandi winery, owned by the Moretti Polegato family, which in recent years has given a net change of pace to the family business, considerably expanding the viticul tural platform, which today extends into the heart of Treviso's bubbles, be tween the district of Valdobbiadene, Asolo and Montello, but also exploring the high Friuli plain near Spilimbergo with the acquisition of the Friuli win ery Borgo Conventi, which enjoys full autonomy and productive identity. But let's go back to talking about the award-winning wine, the fruit of a vineyard, La Rivetta, of one and a half hectares between the hamlets of Santo Stefano and San Pietro di Barbozza. Here is where this Cartizze is born, produced in about 15,000 bottles a year, which has been awarded the Tre Bicchieri recognition for the twelfth time. But the 2020 version has ex tra oomph. «It was one of the most regular harvests in recent years, with very good day-night temperature variations, with a beautiful September and spectacular and very healthy starting grapes. The aromatic potential was certainly superior in intensity and depth,» commented Stefano Gava, oenologist and technical director of the winery, who avails himself of the advice of Riccardo Cotarella. «We start from the second fermentation of the must that we keep until November, and then move on to the tank where it rests for three months. The residual sugar is about 10 grams, in the 2020 vintage we certainly have an even more fragrant primary component,» added Stefano. His production motto is 'as fresh as possible.' But there's more beyond the aspect of the fruit in this wine, rather a fine and embroi dered modulation of aromas typical of a territory that seems to bring us yet another profile of the glera grape, doing justice to a production pyramid that in recent years is clearly present in the glass.
Crocetta del Montello (TV) villasandi.it It unleashes an all-round performance. The wine opens gently on well-rhyth mic hints of white peach, jas mine and basil. In the mouth its flavour is striking and a particularly caressing, fine and continuous sparkle, ca pable of accompanying a sol id and safe progression. It continues lean and dry, graceful, closing on a delicate note of almond and hints of citrus. The perfect pairing? Risot to with Mediterranean herbs.
Cartizze Brut La Rivetta ’20 - Villa Sandi
35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE
SPARKLER OF THE YEAR
Rosé wine in Calabria has such a deep-rooted tradition that it has never known moments of crisis, even when in the rest of Italy rosé wine con sumption had dropped to such low levels as to have almost disappeared. Paradoxically, before the oenological renaissance marked by the last de cade, rosé was instead the only wine on which Calabrian producers experi mented the most: from marrying native and international grape varieties, to the use of overripe grapes and even unlikely aging in barrique. Even in the traditionalist Cirò, to this day there are still few wineries that together with a Cirò don't offer an innovative rosé. «We already produced a traditional rosé,» Stefania Carè and her husband Enzo Sestito told us in unison, «in thinking about what our alternative rosé would become, we imagined a different wine, but without departing too much from tradition and territory. The choice of gaglioppo is therefore easy, a variety that lends itself very well, so we chose a packaging and a one-liter bottle that was certainly against the tide, but as wine makers, we knew very well that the image alone is not enough. This is how the Zero project was born, where zero means without sulphites, yeasts or filtrations.» The Zero line includes a red and a rosé made like a cru, starting from a single vineyard, the highest of the company, the one that matures a little later, but which thanks to the sea breeze and a good temperature range, keeps the acidity well balanced, while the fruit ripens perfectly. For the Zero Rosato, using the ancient "pista e mutta" method, the one used by their grandparents, cellar practices are reduced to a minimum, limited to soft pressing and a short maceration on the skins, just enough to reach the desired colour. Obtained only from the free-run must, after spon taneous fermentation and racking, the wine ages for a couple of months in steel and is bottled without filtration or added sulphites. Heirs of a long fam ily tradition, Stefania and Enzo–who is also the agronomist of the compa ny–personally manage their ten hectare vineyard in the hilly area, organi cally cultivated, for a production of a few thousand bottles that are well identified with the Cirò area and its winemaking tradition.
With a beautiful bright an tique pink, the Zero Rosato '20 is clear and elegant on the nose, scented with red fruit and berries, straw berries, citrus fruits, wild violet, mint and white pepper. The sip is barely tannic, savoury and fruity, perfectly balanced with acidity, very long aromatic per sistence and finish. A great natural wine.
Zero Gaglioppo Rosato ’20 BRIGANTE
ROSÈ OF THE YEAR
56GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 STORIES
Cirò vinocirobrigante.it(KR)
Zero Gaglioppo Rosato 2020 - Brigante
Just over 36 nautical miles from Palermo, where the Tyrrhenian Sea is al ready very deep and intimidating with its cobalt blue waters, there is a mound of black lava beaten by impetuous brackish winds. Here, on the is land of Ustica, Margherita Longo and Vito Barbera, agronomists, lead with great passion and solid competence - in the wake of a family tradition that dates back to the 1970s - Hibiscus, a small agriturismo farmhouse that is a pleasant resting place with comfortable rooms and operations centre (with energy supplied by a modern solar panel system) of the farm whose extent is only a few hectares. Farming is under strict organic regimen, and the farm stead produces the famous lentils of Ustica and a small quantity of wine, highly sought after by connoisseurs for the flavour, technical precision and strong territorial characterisation.
58GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 STORIES
Zhabib Passito ’20
HIBISCUS
SWEET OF THE YEAR
Ustica agriturismohibiscus.com(PA)
Zhabib Passito ’20 – Hibiscus
The news of the Tre Bicchieri awarded to Zhabib '20, a passito wine, found Margherita and Vito (who personally take care of all the farming phases, from pruning to harvesting, as well as the bottling and shipments in their tiny cel lar) rather surprised: «We didn't think it could happen, it's a dream come true. We are only two farmers.» they smile «we operate outside of the dynamics of the wine market, and we are still the only wine producers on Ustica.» «Our wine has a familiar imprint, or rather a tailored one, we do not practice mar keting, our strength is only in the great quality of the labels» they explained. But the feedback that they're getting today, goes beyond the perimeter of the island, «actually for some time now, the requests including from numerous tourists who stay on the island, also come from small operators in cen tral-northern Italy, in a game triggered by simple yet effective word of mouth. Perhaps all this appreciation, which makes us proud, derives from the fact that these very particular wines are, beyond being considered very good, also a sort of 'liquid postcard': they evoke our lands in the Spalmatore and Tramon tana districts, the fragrant scents of Mediterranean scrub, the intricate prickly pears that dot the fascinating landscape together with the countless terraces and beautiful dry stone walls. The wines are perceived as the authentic and positive expression of the fundamental relationship between the native grape varieties (catarratto, grillo, insolia, nero d'Avola and zibibbo) and the extraordi nary volcanic terroir on which they grow.»
Wine of rare grace, precious fruit of zibibbo grapes (Mos cato d'Alessandria) grown on volcanic soil, it's striking for its deep and brilliant golden colour, a prelude to intense and net scents that evoke lavender, myr tle, helichrysum, candied apricot and dates on an intriguing mineral back ground. On the palate it is refined and elegant, of incredible charm, sweet and lively, vibrant, su perbly harmonious.
tenuterubino.comBrindisi
BEST VALUE FOR MONEY
Brindisi Rosso Susumaniello Oltremé ’19 TENUTE RUBINO
OF ITALIAN WINE
The best value for money label of Vini d'Italia takes us to Puglia, specifi cally in the province of Brindisi. It introduces us to a native variety that's still little known but of sure value: Susumaniello. Among the first to fully believe in the potential of this vine we found Tenute Rubino, managed by Luigi Rubino and wife Romina . A winery that counts on a large vineyard park, divided into four estates that stretch between the Adriatic ridge and the hinterland of the Brindisi province. A total of 200 hectares of vine yards for an annual production of around one million bottles. «We started planting Susumaniello in 1999. We were chatting with an old farmer and he pointed out a plot on our Torre Testa estate with a few rows planted with an unknown grape variety worth considering,» said Romina. Experi ments as well as the first vinification were carried out with a team of oenol ogists. And she continued: «The first vintage in 1999 was complicated be cause we didn't know its harvest time and development; in 2001 we managed to launch the first vintage on the market. We found out that it was a late harvest grape, hence we moved the harvest period and continued to re search» said Romina. The first wine was Torre Testa, a rich and structured red, aged in barrique, in 2011 the Susummaniello Oltremé was born. «It is the synthesis of our professional and personal journey, a wine that we have ded icated to ourselves, one which should not be drunk alone. It was born from the market request that asked us for a fresher and more fruity wine, in this case exclusively vinified in steel. The grapes always come from sandy soils near the sea.» The variety is decidedly versatile, hence the decision to vinify it also in rosé and the three Classic Methods produced. Today the Rubinos cultivate 23 hectares of susumaniello, focusing on the alberello training sys tem, the historical one with which the variety was found, with even very old vines. «Today is the last of the reds harvested, usually in late September/Oc tober. Historically it was used as a blend because of the colour, an almost bluish hue, very dark: it is part of the anthocyanic vines. It has its own distinc tive, very peculiar notes. It does not possess aggressive tannins, on the con trary, rather sweet and moderate,» comments Romina. We have also always been struck by that delicate spicy tone of freshly ground pepper and a pro gression on the palate that is both light and tasty. What's next? The Rubinos are working on a new cellar entirely dedicated to Susumaniello: it will be completed in 2023.
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Brindisi Rosso Susumaniello Oltremè 2019 - Tenute Rubino
The 2019 version is certainly one of the best proposals. It is based on tones of small red and black fruits, sup ported by a subtle spicy nuance of pepper and licorice. The opening on the palate is soft and juicy, with a lively sapid vein and a smoothness that is nothing short of pleasant, fragrant in the fruit and with a vital and fine citrusy finish. The price? In the wine shop you can bring one home with just over ten euros. YEARS
Il Franciacorta Nature 61 del ’14 è un vino di straordinaria eleganza e pro fondità. Nasce da una cuvée di char donnay (70%) e pinot nero ottenuti dai vigneti Arzelle, Rovere, San Carlo e Ragnoli, di proprietà dell’azienda, impiantati ad alta densità (10mila piante per ettaro). Una parte dei vini matura in piccoli legni prima della presa di spuma, che dura ben 5 anni.
GUIDO BERLUCCHI & CO.
Berlucchi is the story of classic Italian sparkling wine and Franciacorta. Those first 3,000 bottles of 1961 revealed an extraordinarily suitable territory, which today is one of the cradles - numerically the most important - of the Italian clas sic method. Guido Berlucchi today means 4 million bottles of Franciacorta a year obtained from the 100 hectares of property and the 550 hectares of the grape contributors, which are cared for by the maison with extreme attention through out the year. More than 12 million bottles rest in the cellar waiting for disgorge ment. «Every seven seconds a bottle of Franciacorta Berlucchi is uncorked around the world» said Paolo Ziliani who is at the helm of the company with siblings Arturo - oenologist and CEO - and Cristina. After the years of tumultu ous growth and commercial success that led the company to purchase grapes from other fine DOCG areas, the 2000s gradually returned to Franciacorta. In 2012, two new Franciacorta lines came out on the market, the 61 and the Palaz zo Lana, which made the world understand how the three siblings brought for ward their father's mission and how the goal at Guido Berlucchi is quality at the highest levels. A beautiful estate in Bolgheri has been added to the Franciacorta company, Caccia al Piano 1868, which also brings the spirit of the maison to the world of red wines with excellent results. «We have a lot of work to do, for our company and for Franciacorta - Cristina told us - we believe in sustainability, ours but also in the whole territory, and we work in this direction. We believe that Franciacorta can grow with "experiential" tourism, versed, lover of nature, culture and art, and with the Berlucchi Academy we are always creating new opportu nities for dialogue and debate. The Borgonato Castle has been perfectly re stored... And then we want to post more and more authoritatively in the world the image of Franciacorta, a land of extraordinary wine vocation but also a beau tiful place to visit.» Guido Berlucchi today is a company in constant evolution, which regularly produces excellent cuvées that have a growing number of ad mirers around the world. The sixty years of Franciacorta and the ninety of Franco Ziliani deserved to be celebrated in a special way.
Il risultato è un Franciacorta dal colore pallido e brillante dai bei riflessi verdolini, do tato di un perlage finissimo e persistente. Al naso si apre ampio e fragrante su note di pesca e mela, agrumi, fiori bianchi, cedro e poi ancora nocciola e lieviti.
60GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
"What if we made a sparkling wine the French way?" This is the question that at the end of the 1950s young oenologist Franco Ziliani posed to Guido Berlucchi who had called him for advice on his white wine - that was not too stablemade with Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay from vineyards of the family lands in Borgonato di Cortefranca. Guido Berlucchi liked the idea. The first bottles, after some experimenting, were released in 1961, there were just 3,000 of them. "We will drink them for the next twenty years!" noted annoyed the house butler, who had been entrusted with the thankless task of stacking them in the cellar. Fortu nately he was wrong. Big time.
Franciacorta Nature 61 ’14
Corte Franca (BS)
WINERY OF THE YEAR
berlucchi.it
Al palato è ampio, fre sco, grintoso e carezze vole allo stesso tempo, offre carezzevole,un’effervescenzaancorafruttoeinfineunastraordinariapersistenza.InperfettostileBerlucchi.
Sobi ’19 BENTU LUNA
Neoneli (OR) - @BentuLuna Sobi '19 is a wine that immediately excites. Obtained from an old vineyard where many different varieties alter nate, cultivated with alberello training system, as was common in these parts in the past. The nose is explosive, com plex, particular. It is not only a classic fruity scent, typical of young reds, that stands out right away. The Mediterra nean scrub opens with notes of myrtle, cystus and strawberry tree to dominate the sense of smell. Then there are sen sations of undergrowth, wet soil and bark, always very clean, ele gant and of great persistence. The mouth completes the tasting. The wine is creamy, enveloping, like a great sou thern wine should be, but the drinkability is never weighed down by matter; the alcohol is perfectly dosed because it's balan ced by a vein of freshness that marks the sip and by a final flavour making the wine very long, invigora ting and possessing incre dible vitality. .
35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE
UP-AND-COMING WINERY
Valorise the old alberello vineyards, revive a land that has always been dedi cated to viticulture, economically and socially develop the territory and all its peculiarities through quality wine. There is this and much more at the core of the Bentu Luna project, Gabriele Moratti's winery (the Moratti family already owns Castello di Cigognola winery in the Oltrepò Pavese) and properly man aged by Gian Matteo Baldi, who believes and has believed for some time in the potential and development of viticulture in the Sardinian hinterland. Lo cated in Neoneli, a small village in the heart of Sardinia, in the province of Oristano. Not far from Mandrolisai – great value and much appreciated DOC – an untouched high hill and mountain viticulture area, where (fortunately) the presence of old rows is still high. Vineyards, however, risk being aban doned if not supported by serious and far-sighted projects like this one, capa ble of rendering the right (economic and social) value to the land itself. It is on these assumptions that Bentu Luna bottles various labels (four red wines and one white, for now) of the highest level because they are able to best repre sent these areas. «The result is outside the usual known for Sardinia» explains Gian Matteo Baldi, CEO of Bentu Luna «We are dealing with very elegant wines, with great drinking pleasure, little relevance of alcohol to the taste, agile but with a great depth and persistence.» Absolutely contemporary wines, we may add, capable of capturing the best aspects of past wine mak ing, but of arriving in the bottle full of charm and authenticity. Furthermore products of a respectful and polite production in the cellar that takes into account the decades of life of the plants and Nature's timetables. «The valori sation of the grapes obtained from these old vines passes through drop by drop infusion of their juice» continues Baldi, «The wine we obtain, then, is not "doctored" with oenological products, filtered or modified. Plus, the materials chosen for aging are warm: concrete, terracotta, oak. The role of the latter, in particular, is functional to the natural growth of wines, it must not be invasive or overwhelming. Each choice is designed to find the original and authentic expression of the grapes in the glass.» Fermentations are spontaneous, there fore no steel but concrete tanks, then used oak and bottle. Four wines were reviewed in the 2022 Guide: Unda, a Vermentino di Sardegna '20, the Mandrolisai Mari '19, Susu '19 from a single vineyard of cannonau, and Sobi '19, also from a single vineyard where many different traditional varieties coexist. The latter two reached the final tastings and the Sobi, everyone agreed, climbed on the top step of the podium in the very year of the winery's debut.
Bentu Luna
62GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021 STORIES
San Marzano was born in 1962, when 19 winemakers from San Marzano di San Giuseppe, a town located in the heart of the Primitivo di Manduria wine area and to this day headquarters of the winery, joined together to valorse their work. In 1982 Francesco Cavallo was appointed President, inaugurat ing forty years of uninterrupted leadership and definitively changing the company's production perspective. The transition from bulk to bottling ar rived in 1996, and four years later the symbolic label of this winery was born, the Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni, the fruit of over sixty year old alberello vines. We asked Francesco Cavallo to tell us about the current role of the winery and future projects: "Today San Marzano has become a real ity that collects approximately 1,200 winemakers for over 1,500 hectares of vineyards. A growth that has not distorted the philosophy and production process, which always takes place with respect for tradition. We have an extraordinary collective awareness and strong roots in the territory and the cultural fabric of the area, as well as possessing wealth of humanity among our members and non-standardized knowledge. On the other hand, coop erative enterprises are important organizations precisely to the extent that they contribute to the economic and social development of an entire terri tory. The cooperative model, however, is only successful if it encourages the development of a collective mentality oriented towards an ethical search for the best possible product, thus creating a virtuous cycle on the identification of its winemakers with the work of the cellar. We have man aged to create great willingness of our members to follow our indications, also thanks to the success we've had and the results we're reporting. The future for us is sustainability in production, which is something we have been working on for some time, thanks to the opportunities provided by research and technology – some of our vineyards are veritable digital farm ing laboratories, with the use of climate sensors, probes for the control of hydration stress, and so on – which open new frontiers in the field of or ganic agriculture: produce better, protect the territory, consume increas ingly less.".
COOPERATIVE WINERY OF THE YEAR Cantine San Marzano
Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni ’18 CANTINE SAN MARZANO
This Primitivo, whose first edition dates back to the year 2000, is pro duced with grapes from alberello vines that are over sixty years old. The 2018 ver sion confirms the stylistic approach typical of this wine, made up of volume, richness and complexi ty: on the nose there are aromas of black plum jam, confirmed by a mellow and soft palate, with a finish in which sweet tones are well supported from bold acid tension.
San Marzano di San Giuseppe cantinesanmarzano.com(TA)
Gianni Doglia destiny was written, sooner or later he would have beco me Winemaker of the Year. Now fifty years old, Doglia was born in among the family vineyards and has been playing with it from an early age. Pa rents Bruno and Marisa grew about six hectares of vineyards and sold their grapes to local merchants and to historical customers, often local, they'd sell young wine in demijohns. In this small family business, Gianni grew up with a passion for the grapevine which first led him to undertake university studies in viticulture and oenology and then to become a fulltime winemaker.
The 2020 version has a very intense hue with ruby/purple nuances still very rich in violet reflections. The nose offers an explosion of fruity aromas where ripe cherries rule, albeit leaving room for hints of wet soil and bark lend ing complexity. The palate, while being very rich and almost chewable, is crossed from start to finish by a splendid acidic/ savoury vein that de termines the almost perfect balance of the long aftertaste.
In the mid-1990s, Gianni began giving some advice to local winemakers and, at the same time, making wine in the family cellar. Since 1999 - back home for good - he's been in charge of the vineyards and the cellar full time, with the complete trust of his father. Under his push, with the help of his sister Paola, who has also returned to work on the farm, the hecta res of vineyards are now 17. Gianni focused first on Moscato d'Asti, the main wine of the area and one that's very difficult to manage. Having become "the top of the class" on Moscato, Gianni returned to devote himself to his first love, i.e. the house reds, Barbera first and foremost. In 1998 the Barbera d'Asti Boscodonne was born, which immediately emer ged as the company's vintage Barbera, bottled young and without any aging in oak. "I gave my first Barbera simply the name of the area in which the vineyard grows" she says "The place is called that way because at the beginning of World War I three women who had their husbands at the front went to live together in an old farmhouse to give themselves coura ge." It's a vineyard of just over one and a half hectares and about 40 years of age, from which about 9,000 bottles are obtained yearly. Today this first Barbera has been joined by other more important Barbera, including a Nizza from a rented vineyard in Nizza Monferrato, and other red wines, but Gianni remains very attached to Boscodonne because the deve lopment of this wine was the result of great work performed in the vi neyard: "Barbera grapes obtained from high yields produce drinkable wi nes, but lean and acidic and I didn't want that. If you decide to lower the yields, the resulting wine instead has such a concentration that, to soften it requires time in oak, but again it was not my idea of a young Barbera. After various tests, first of all on the most suitable vineyard and then on the yields and the way to manage it and on the vinification (with macera tion times and fermentation temperatures) the Barbera Boscodonne of my heart was born."
Gianni Doglia
Castagnole delle Lanze (AT) giannidoglia.it
Barbera d’Asti Boscodonne ’20 GIANNI DOGLIA
GROWER OF THE YEAR
64GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. ’16 BRIGALDARA
San Pietro in Cariano (VR) brigaldara.it Fruit of the vineyards that grow in the Marano valley, the Amarone '16 offers the nose an aro matic outfit where over ripe cherries intertwine with notes of spice and undergrowth, finding an unexpected burst of freshness in the floral thrust. The palate, warm and vigorous as expected from the Veronese red, grace fully stretches, taper ing around the acidic push and lengthening in a dry and delicate finish.
AWARD FOR VITICULTURESUSTAINABLEBrigaldara
65GAMBERO ROSSO 35 YEARS OF ITALIAN WINE NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
To summarize the meaning of the award for sustainable viticulture as a prize for an organic company or one that uses fewer sulfites is frankly a bit simplistic. Sustainability can no longer be measured only in the rela tionship between producer and the surrounding agricultural environ ment: we need to raise the bar and question the complexity of the wine grower's work, even with regards to aspects that are less obvious, such as consumption of unused recyclable sources, the environmental im pact that the production and transport of glass has, the bond that exists with collaborators that cannot be managed solely through an employ ment contract. Brigaldara with the Equalitas certification wants to un derline this 360 degree commitment, where the presence of solar panels on the roof of the cellar is only the tip of the iceberg. The submerged part of this iceberg consists of the drastic reduction in the weight of the bottles used, monitoring of energy and water consumption, and the commitment of the owners to develop a relationship with employees that goes beyond the simple performance of the tasks. «Beyond the fair ness of relations with employees, our commitment is aimed at valoris ing their skills and their virtuous behaviors that affect everyone's work and act as a stimulus and a topic for reflection both for colleagues and for us.» Stefano Cesar i, owner of Brigaldara, underlines precisely how this is one of the most important points to be developed, the collabora tors' participation in the company project and the commitment of the owners to build together with them a path of growth that does not con cern only the working aspect but also exploring and supporting the family aspect, intervening alongside the employees themselves in times of difficulty.
Località Sant’Elena N° 3/A, Dolegna del Collio (GO) www.tiaredoc.com Grandigrandisuoli,vini
And finally the wine that was awarded with Tre Bicchieri recognition in the la test edition of the Guide: Pian di Stio '20. It is a wine made from Fia no grapes grown at about 550 me ters above sea level in the munici pality of Stio, vinified exclusively in steel. The 2020 version, with bright green reflections, is clear and fragrant in shades of white peach and green ap ple, punctuated by fresh sen sations of aromatic herbs. When tasted it turns out to be very well shaped, taut and long, tasty and snappy. Tre Bicchieri material.
SOLIDARITY AWARD
San Salvatore 1988
Pian di Stio ’20 SAN SALVATORE 1988
Giungano sansalvatore1988.it(SA)
67GAMBERO ROSSO NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021
Sustainability and solidarity go hand in hand with San Salvatore 1988, the brand that contains only a part of the numerous projects developed by the ebullient and passionate entrepreneur Giuseppe Pagano. Located in the Ci lento National Park between the municipalities of Capaccio, Stio and Giun gano, a farm that welcomes vineyards, olive groves, orchards, but also water buffalo breeds and other products that embellish the property's own restau rants, such as the elegant Tre Olivi or the more traditional La Dispensa di San Salvatore, also in Capaccio, where dishes such as lagane and chickpeas, or pasta and potatoes have now become true collective rites. On the oenolog ical front, we found a virtuous supply chain that has quickly gained attention, starting from the colourful range based on Fiano, Greco, Falanghina and Agli anico. A praiseworthy project starting precisely from Aglianico. "It all started with a collaboration with Gerardo Antelmo, the mayor of Cicerale, and the desire to do something more than a simple donation. I wanted to create a system, a virtuous circle, to help PAIRI (Pomegranate Autism International Research Institute) based in Cicerale. So we selected an Aglianico vineyard with the oenological collaboration of Riccardo Cotarella, on the one hand, and the technical support of Antinori, especially for the sales network," Gi useppe Pagano told us. "Behind it there will be lots of selection, very low yields, for a wine that dreams big. In this way we will produce 1,000 mag nums per year which will be sold on international markets at a cost of around 100 euros," he added. The chosen Aglianico vineyard is Fuscillo di Paestum, on soils particularly rich in tuff, while the wine will be called Quattro Cuori. The first vintage will be 2019, a vintage particularly suited to the area. "It will be an Aglianico with structure and elegance, rich in colour and fruit. The back-label of the following years will indicate how the proceeds of the previ ous year were spent, with the specification of the projects carried out with the funds. It's an important step also because PAIRI is already at the forefront in autism studies, in particular an innovative method invented by psycholo gist Paolo Maietta, director of the institute: a patented eye-tracker on special eyeglasses will allow on the one hand an early diagnosis of autistic children and in the future a further therapeutic approach. At the moment PAIRI, a branch of the PAIRI FOUNDATION, has innovative studies underway, such as the use of water in the Maietta Method Aquatic Multisystem Therapy, invent ed by Dr. Paolo Maietta, which gives decidedly encouraging results," under lined Gerardo Antelmo, mayor of Cicerale.
LA VIGNA DEL CAPANNINO
There are seven hectares of uni form compact clay between 270 and 280 meters above sea level, a platform with a unique geological profile, a fragmented, coherent and compact Alberese, full southwest facing, looking towards Monteriggioni. Here the conforma tion of the hills conveys a flow of sea air; in summer the vineyard is exposed to the sun from 5 am to 7 pm. Here we find Sangiovese gros so, brought from Montalcino by Giulio Gambelli in the 1950s, which was still selected and multiplied in the company for the new 2008 spurred cordon vine training sy stem, with 5,800 plants per hecta re. Capannino offers deep and structured wines.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O2168GAMBERO ROSSO BIBBIANO IN VERTICALE
The Vertical. 10 wines, two terroirs
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Bibbiano interprets Chianti Classico
Bibbiano is one of the most beautiful properties of the Chianti Clas sico. Located in Castellina in Chianti, in the southwestern part of the area, overlooking the Val d’Elsa, where forests, olive groves, arable land and vineyards alternate to compose an evocative setting. Here, since 1865, the Marrocchesi Marzi family has been producing wines, in actual fact... excellent wines. For many years, from 1942 to 2004, Bibbiano wines were elaborated with the collaboration of a legend of Tuscan oenology: Giulio Gambelli, Master Taster, creator of some of the iconic labels of the recent history of Tuscan oenology. Today the winery has thirty hectares of vineyards within a much larger property of about 220 hectares and avails itself of the agronomic and oenolo
4. The Montornello vineyards
IN VERTICALE
BIBBIANO
Deep ruby red that turns to garnet, it has a complex, fine and delicately evolved nose that is still vi brant with red fruit with notes of blood and citrus peel. The palate is elegant, deep and articulate, complex, and opens on earthy tones of un dergrowth, which fade on memories of porcini mushrooms and black truffle. It’s elegant and relaxed in the finish, delicately balsamic, long, with a persistent memory of bitter chocolate, and very silky tannins. In short: very ele gant.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Capannino
2018
Dark purple ruby colour, it has a complex, fine, intense and fresh nose, with notes of citrus, can died violet, cherry and raspberry, followed by pomegranate, vanilla, and finally a delicately balsamic fresh note... The mouth is led by the fruit, where the pomegranate, ra spberry and violet, then annurca apple and quince return in tensely; it has a solid acid structure, fine tannins. Astrin gent, fresh, savoury, it has a long finish on the fruit. Classic but mo dern.
1. The bottles of the ten vintages of the two Bibbiano labels are ready for the vertical organized exclusively for Gambero Rosso
2. La vigna del Capannino vineyard
2016
it, dense and elegant in the tones of black cherry jam: persuasive and almost sensual in its rich pulpiness. Then there are vanilla, smoky and toasted notes, coffee powder, cher ry jam, and above all it offers us a very fine tannic complement. Ver tical, deep, barely austere, it calls for important pairings.
2013
Deep, intense ruby red, with a slight gar net hue on the nail. Generous nose, rich in notes of red fruit, then ferrous, with tones of Virginia tobacco, cher ry and currant. The mouth is pulpy and consistently thick with tones of red and black fruit: assertive, rich, showing tannins of great finesse. It is sa
pid, elegant, harmonious, and clo ses long on black fruit, on tobacco and dark chocolate, with a delicate toasted coffee note. Compelling.
It has a beautiful dark ruby colour, dense, in tense, with a light, newly developed nail. On the nose it’s surpri sing for the freshness of the balsamic notes, for the lively tones of small red fruits which then turn to shades of cacao. In the mouth it is enveloping and soft, offers a ripe black fru
1997
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O2169GAMBERO ROSSO
3. An image of the tasting led by Marco Sabellico, curator of Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia guide
2007
At its ripe age, it has a beautiful garnet ruby colour with a clear orange edge. On the nose are cho colate, cherries in alcohol (familiar with Mon Chérie liqueur filled cho colates?), Elegant tones of well-de veloped ripe fruit, a complexity of spice tones but a black fruit, a blueberry jam that always returns, vital and inviting. Also on the palate it proves energetic, firm and li vely, with a good push, straight and vertical, a dynamic wine, which has pulp and above all an enjoyable comple xity. Smooth tannins and a nice acidic backbone support the pulpy fruit, which turns to elegant nuan ces of tobacco, which accompany it in an enveloping and really long finish, refreshed by the nuan ces of candied orange.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O21
Fifteen hectares entirely sur rounded by woods. The exposure here is to the north-east. The soils are Pliocene sediments, loose clays of various compositions, red and gray, probably a prehistoric lake shore, alternating with sand and gypsum blades and with the pre sence of alberese gravel, in the form of rounded pebbles. The ave rage temperature is 4-5 degrees lower than the Capannino, and the hours of sun exposure are fewer. Exposed to north winds, it attracts humidity from the surrounding woodland area. We find clones of Sangiovese resulting from the Chianti Classico 2000 project, plan ted at 5,800 units per hectare and trained in Guyot.
3 4
70GAMBERO ROSSO
BIBBIANO VERTICALE
The Vertical. 10 wines, two terroirs Bibbiano interprets Chianti Classico
LE VIGNE DI MONTORNELLO
gical consultancy of Maurizio Castelli, another deep connoisseur of this land and its grapes. At the helm of Bibbiano are Tommaso and Federico Marrocchesi Marzi, who have matured experience in inter national business management and represent the fifth generation of the family taking care of this land. Respect for the territory, attention to tradition, organic and sustainable production, a state-of-the-art cellar, this is their philosophy. Among the company labels, two fully represent the Bibbiano style and approach to wine: Chianti Classi co Gran Selezione, obtained from pure Sangiovese, which are the timely and careful interpretations of two different terroirs through the classic grape variety of this land. These are Vigna del Capannino and Vigne di Montornello.
by Marco Sabellico
IN
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2O21
2013
2007
A beautiful mature Chianti Classico, the result of a hot vintage, which holds the scene firmly. The colour has evolved, and also its aromas, but they are intense, com plex and inviting with beautiful notes of overri pe cherry, black fruit jam, puer tea, Virginia tobacco, cedar wood and spices. On the pala te it shows pulpiness, fruit, a firm and cares sing structure in astrin gency, which opens progressively and ele gantly in the glass, widens on the palate and fa des gloriously complex, elegant and long. What a success!
Black olives, sour cher ry, then citrus nuances that give way to notes of tobacco and spices.
turn to orange and mandarin peel and candied citrus. The mouth is elegantly structured, the wine has a beautiful dynamic vitality, smo oth tannins and the right alcohol content. The fruit becomes pulpy and whole again, the finish is long, fresh, complex, spicy… In short, marvelous!
The colour is a beautiful, intense and clear ruby, and the nose opens up juicy and inviting with notes of cherry and morello cherry, raspber ry and black currant, to fade into notes of scrub and floral. On the palate it’s broad, enveloping, clear and harmonious, the fruit is elegantly ripe.
Material but flowing, it is a wine of balance and harmony but which does not re nounce solid fullness.
2016
Well present but vel vety tannins make it a dynamic and tense red, which closes very elegantly and with hints of pomegranate. Like all Bib biano wines it has a bright future ahead of it.
71GAMBERO ROSSO
1997
BIBBIANO IN VERTICALE
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigne di Montornello
2018
Clear and intense ruby red, it opens on the nose with a symphony of Mediterranean herbs, offering creamy and pulpy red and black fruits, very clear and vital, which then
Still a wine of finesse and tenacity, evident from the still clear and vi tal ruby colour with just a hint of evolution. The nose confirms it: the red fruit is there, ripe but not too much, and elegantly turns on spicy and smoky memories. In the mouth is pulp, fla vour, acid tension, cre aminess of fruit and firm but elegant tan nins. An articulated, complex wine that winds through fruit, spices, medicinal herbs and notes of to bacco and coffee that accompany a long en veloping finish that fa des into notes of cof fee, leather, cherry. Persuasive.
Bibbiano - Castellina in Chianti (SI) - via Bibbiano, 76 - 0577743065 - bibbiano.com Pant.2195U Nero Oro
The slightly evolved garnet colour tells us that this is a wine to be seized at the moment. The nose opens with sweet notes of fruit in alcohol, tar and leather. It is advanced in years but still holds good vitality. On the palate it is thin, ripe, the acidity keeps it taut but the fruit begins to dry up, and the evol ved notes of ancient wood and wax appear that we do not find in the more combative and dynamic Capanni no of the same vintage. Subdued autumnal harmonies.
A VERY IMPORTANT GRAPE.
It prefers cool climates therefore finding in Friuli on the northernmost hills of Colli Orientali its ideal habitat. This is for sure the most renowned Friulian wine in the world with a long-lasting success history.
PINOT GRIGIO TERLATO RIULI COLLI ORIENTALI
SIRCH Sarl - Cividale del Friuli - Udine - Italy - info@sirchwine.com https://www.sirchwine.com
DOC
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Salumi da Re 2021: meetings, discussions, showcases and online presentations
For the second year running, the three-day event dedicated to the best Italian pork butchery, which normally livens up the Antica Corte Pallavicina’s farmyard on a spring weekend, will be held online. Even at a time of resumption of in-person activities, it was a choice dictated by prudence, yet safely con tinuing to promote and enhance the best expres sions of pork butchery and food in Italy. After all, ‘Salumi da Re’, organised since 2014 by Gambero Rosso together with the brothers Massimo and Lu ciano Spigaroli in Polesine Zibello in the Bassa Par mense area, is a meeting and exchange between pork speciality producers from all over Italy and vari ous sector players, from those who manufacture cas ings, select the spices and breed the pigs, to those who sell cured meats and bring them to the table. Among its advantages, the contact with consumers, conferences with the most qualified experts in the sector, and pairings with wines and craft beers sug gested by beverage specialists. An event with such a festive and convivial character could not take place, not yet. Nonetheless, we want to keep raising the
Massimo Spigaroli: pork butcher and chef from Bassa Parmense
Cooking and cured meats are the two great passions of Massimo Spigaroli. Cooking was handed down to him from his family, a love born and nurtured in the restaurant opened more than 60 years ago by his parents, Al Cavallino Bianco, a few dozen metres from the Antica Corte Pallavicina. Cured meats are in his DNA, thanks to the Bassa Parmense area that is the cradle of culatello of Zibello. Massimo has dedicated his life to this jewel of pork butchery, safeguarding tooth and nail the traditional processing and his creation, the Antica Corte Pallavicina, a thir ty-year project that embraces a charming relais, a Michelin-starred restaurant, the cured meat pro duction and the farm. This small kingdom gath ered around what was once the 15th-century castle of the Pallavicino marquesses is the loca tion of ‘Salumi da Re’ (King’s Cured Meats), the gathering of pork butchers, breeders and char cuterie producers. “In the end, good ideas work out no matter what,” reflects Massimo Spigaroli, who will host Peppe Guida and the pork butcher in his ‘house’ for the filming of the Gambero Ros so HD TV series. “’Salumi da Re’ is not only a party, but also a moment of confrontation between the pork butchers and the stakeholders in the supply chain: agronomists, breeders, geneticists, meat processing researchers and experts of the SSICA (Experimental Station for the Food Preservation Industry), small shop owners, chefs and consum ers. A workshop for everyone. Edition after edi tion, we learn new things, keep up to date and taste: black pigs, preservatives, closed-loop sup ply chain, raw materials, food and drink pairing. We hope that ‘Salumi da Re’ will become a world wide event in the future, open to foreign pork producers”.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202173GAMBERO ROSSO SALUMI DA RE 2021
profile of these companies and discuss the Ital ian charcuterie production latest updates through our communication media and the editorial, paper and digital products that distinguish us: the month ly magazine, the website and the TV channel. Once again this year, there will be cured meat reci pes, which will be broadcast on Gambero Rosso HD (Sky channels 133 and 415) starting in November. This edition will be headed by Peppe Guida, chef and owner of Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa in Vico Equense, in the province of Naples, who will create several flavoursome recipes to make the most of the participating pork butchers’ products. The Gambero Rosso website will publish an article on the event in November, in conjunction with the one published in these pages. There are two absolute novelties in this digital edition of the event: the former is the firsthand involvement of the cured meat producers in
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202174GAMBERO ROSSO SALUMI DA RE 2021
Salumi da Re 2021 meetings, showcasesdiscussions,andonlinepresentations
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO (EU) REGULATION NO. 1308/2013 NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202175GAMBERO ROSSO SALUMI DA RE 2021
Peppe Guida, the chef with the hobby of charcuterie, What recipes will Peppe Guida prepare? “I always go with my gut, I listen to the product: it’s the one that tells me what to do. The quality and the wide choice of cured meats have stimu lated my creative flair and suggested ways of us ing them in preparations that enhance their val ue”. Peppe Guida is well known to the Gambero Rosso audience, host of the television show ‘Questa terra è la mia terra’ (‘This is my land’) and author of cookbooks that celebrate the cuisine of Campania and the sea. But his private and professional life also includes cured meats. “I was born and ‘bred’ in Vico Equense, where ev eryone bred and processed pork meat. This tradi tion still exists today: in collaboration with a farmer, the pig is bred with cleanliness and re spect, following a proper diet, while the meat is processed together. One of the projects at the country house in Vico is a cellar to age my chees es and cured meats using pigs from my hills,” re vealed the chef. Cured meats (pork, but also beef and fish), which have historically been an inte gral part of traditional recipes. “Think of Neapoli tan pasta with lard, carbonara and amatriciana, lardings. I’m thinking of arancino di riso (rice balls) with soppressata (spicy coarse ground sa lami), peas and onion stock, and of a dish we had on the menu, that is tagliatella with fior di latte fondue and culatello of the Alta Irpinia area, added at the end and melted in the fondue”. What’s important is to know how to cook them at the right time and in the right way, “at very low temperatures and only for a few seconds”.
The event dedicated to signature Italian cured meats is about to kick off: this year too, the event will be held online and filmed by Gambero Rosso HD TV on the Sky channel with the presence of chef Peppe Guida.
In the opening, the ribbon cutting of the (live) 2019 edition
Antica Corte Pallavicina POLESINE ZIBELLO (PR) STRADA DEL PALAZZO DUE TORRI, 3 – 0524936539
A unique and exclusive morta della production in terms of quality, variety and origin: Arti gianquality is the only artisan that makes this beloved cured meat in the city of Bologna. You can choose from a wide range of excellent varieties. Don’t miss the classic mortadella, also a Presidio Slow Food product.
the television format broadcast on Gambero Rosso HD, where the pork butchers will accom pany in each episode the talent chef Peppe Guida, alongside the host Massimo Spigaro li, illustrating the peculiarities of the product chosen as the main recipe ingredient; the lat ter is ‘La Vetrina di Salumi da Re’ (Salumi da Re’s showcase), a special section dedicated to the companies’ flagships of the 2021 edition, available online from November on the Gam bero Rosso website gamberorosso.it, looking forward to continuing the discussion in person next year.
Salumi Benvenuti LUCCA – VIA DELLA SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA, SALUMIBENVENUTI.COM0583426060/426191|1225C
Fabio Armani and his staff pro duce artisan zero food mile
COMPANIES CURED MEATS
Artisan charcuterie of local pork specialities run by Antonio Sale. Among the products, the typical Sardinian seasoned sausage with the classic crown shape stands out, made according to the regional recipe. It is served traditionally with zichi bread, typical of central Sardinia.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202176GAMBERO ROSSO SALUMI DA RE 2021
The association gathers four producers of the most tradition al cured meat of the Pordenone valleys: a meatball made from sheep, goat or game meat fla voured with mountain herbs, dipped in corn flour and dried in the smoke from the chimney. It boasts the PGI and the Presi dio Slow Food certification.
MEDUNO (PN) – VIA ROMA, 1 335 PITINA-IGP.IT6987484
Artigianquality
ProduttoriAssociazionePitina APS
Butcher and pork butcher shop in the centre of Sabaudia. Here, the Avagliano family sells its cured meats from closed-loop supply chain and from its own herd of black Circeo pigs, a cross between Cinta Senese and Casertana breed. Try the fatback.
Bardana OZIERI (SS)
La Bottega di San Rossore PISA – VIA DELLE COLOMBAIE, 1 ANGOLO VIA AURELIA IKEA 050503744AREA –RISTOROBOTTEGADELPARCO.IT3487915204
ZONA INDUSTRIALE CHILIVANI 380 SALUMIBARDANA.COM3442013
PALLAVICINARELAIS.ITANTICACORTE
The brothers Rocco and Enzo Benvenuti produce typical Tus can and Italian pork specialities. The flagship line is Salumi del Forziere, a selection of the Luc ca-based company’s best pork products. Try the guanciale (pork cheek) with black pepper.
BOLOGNA – VIA T. CREMONA, 29 342 ARTIGIANQUALITY.COM9442623
A small kingdom of taste and beauty inside a fifteenth-centu ry castle in the Bassa Parmense area. This is Massimo and Lucia no Spigaroli’s company that in cludes a relais, a Miche lin-starred restaurant, Hostaria del Maiale, a closed-loop supply chain of cured meat produc tion and an agroshop. Compa ny’s flaghsip is the culatello of Zibello.
Avagliano SABAUDIA (LT) CORSO AVAGLIANOCARNI.IT0773515254EMANUELEVITTORIOII,26–3455553998
Salumi da Re 2021 meetings, showcasesdiscussions,andonlinepresentations
VIA GEMONA, 29 –DOKDALLAVA.COM0432957335
Gianferrari
VIA VAL D’ENZA NORD, 145 GIANFERRARI.IT0522878185
BRISVAL.IT
Morgante ROMANS D’ISONZO (GO)
LESIGNANO DE’ BAGNI (PR)
LOCALITÀ CIANO D’ENZA
Since 1960, Galloni is one of the best-known Parma ham companies in Langhirano. For some years now, it has been producing interesting raw ham versions: aged in barrels, with less salt and enriched with spices and natural fla vourings. One of its flagships is Parma PDO Selezione Oro aged for 24 months.
VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II, 56 0871221110 – 3272538743
Fratelli Pelizziari Prosciutti TRAVERSETOLO (PR)
Dal Massimo Goloso
Fausto Guadagni is the magi cian of lard. And not only PGI lard of Colonnata, but also cre ative versions without certifica tion, the result of the creativity of this pork butcher from Carr ara. But the most popular is the classic one, matured in the typical marble basins with spices and herbs for at least six months.
LOCALITÀ COREDO PIAZZA
Devodier
BRACEVIA.IT
Proudly single-product compa ny from Valchiavenna: bresaola (dried salted beef) made with meat from different cattle breeds. The whole production is characterised by a very high quality and by the absence of preservatives and additives. Top-notch its bresaola made from wagyu bred in Japan.
PREDAIA (TN)
One of the best producers of San Daniele ham. But Dok Dall’Ava is also known for its fine selection of raw ham made from pork legs of ancient rustic breeds. One of the highlights is Nebrodok, a ham made from black Nebrodi pigs, processed and cured in San Daniele.
Chefs of the restaurant Il Canti none in Madesimo, Stefano Masanti and Stefano Ciabarri are also producers of typical Valchiavenna cured meats: vio lino di capra, slinzega and beef brisaola, in different variations according to size and cut. Su perlative the brisaola di co done matured for 120 days.
VIA AQUILEIA, 76 MORGANTE.IT0481966511
One of the best-known com panies in San Daniele del Friuli for its PDO raw ham. Mor gante’s name is also linked to fine cooked hams, processed in the Romans d’Isonzo pro
duction centre. Its top product is the bone-in Prague ham, to be cut strictly by hand on the clamp.
Paganoni has been producing typical Valtellina cured meats for over 30 years, especially bresaola, its speciality. From PGI bresaola to special breeds (Limousin, Charolais, Blonde d’Aquitaine, Piedmontese, Chianina, Austrian Scottona, Wagyu). Don’t miss the com pany’s flagship Primitiva Bio, without preservatives.
CONTRADA GUALDUCCIO, 13/14 RENORCINO.IT0733694407
CHIURO (SO) – VIA O. CENINI, 19 PAGANONI.COM0342484349
VIA ROMA, 84 –GALLONIPROSCIUTTO.IT0521354211
CANOSSA (RE)
DEI CIGNI, 6 – 0463536129 3494338144 –MACELLERIACORRA.COM3407375185
cured meats. All within the Park of San Rossore: the fresh meat from small organic farms (in the local and in the Pisa area), and other ingredients for curing and processing. Don’t miss the ex clusive pine nut mortadella.
VIA NAZIONALE, 340D 3388110278 – 3486807094
The strong suit of cured meats by Re Norcino is the closedloop supply chain: the meat comes from the company’s own farms on the Fermo hills, while the processing and sea soning take place in San Gine sio, in the high hills of Macera ta. One of Vitali family’s most representative cured meats is PGI Ciauscolo.
SAN GIOVANNI TEATINO (CH)
Bracevia
LOCALITÀ MULAZZANO PONTE VIA PONTICELLA, 4 0521861070 – DEVODIER.COM
SAN DANIELE DEL FRIULI (UD)
Pork company in the Terre Matildiche area since 1951, now in its third generation. Gi
Paganoni
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202177GAMBERO ROSSO SALUMI DA RE 2021
MA! Officina Gastronomica MADESIMO (SO)
One of the reference compa nies for high quality Parma ham, located on the right bank of the Parma torrent, opposite Langhirano. The local raw ham is offered in different lines and maturations, including Devodi er Animal Welfare Parma Ham, made with attention to animal welfare.
An innovative project con ceived and implemented by Agnese Volpone and Maurizio Cutropia that makes the most of sheep meat, from mostly lo cal sheep (and from Gregorio Roto’s organic farm). The heart of the production are the clas sic arrosticini (grilled lamb skewers): delectable.
LANGHIRANO (PR)
VIA DE GIACOMI, 7 034353025 –COMMAOFFICINAGASTRONOMICA.3200754837
Larderia Fausto Guadagni FRAZIONECARRARA COLONNATA STRADA COMUNALE, 4 0585768069 – 3356530268 FAUSTOGUADAGNI.COMLARDERIA
VIA PICELLI, 49 –PROSCIUTTI.ITFRATELLIPELIZZIARI0521844377
anferrari is famous for its culat ta of Canossa, renamed Canos sello by our pork butchers, company’s flagship obtained from the so-called ‘ham pulp’, the noblest part of the pork leg.
NOVATE MEZZOLA (SO)
Dok Dall’Ava
Formerly known as Italgroup Alimentari, the Pelizziari broth ers’ ham factory proudly re mains a single-product com pany. Only two PDO Parma hams, processed in the same way and both matured for 2022 months, but in different cel lars. Al Naturel is the PDO ham presented this year, aged in the premises in Via Risorgi mento.
Galloni
Together with his family, the ‘greedy’ Massimo Corrà produc es traditional Trentino cured meats, creative pork specialities and, for some years now, prod ucts made from farm’s black pigs. Among the local char cuterie, the mortandela from Val di Non stands out.
Re Norcino – Vitali SAN GINESIO (MC)
BrisVal
Francesco Carriero produces the capocollo of Martina Franca, Itria Valley’s most traditional cured meat, oak-smoked with vino cotto in the curing process and Mediterranean herbs. Our pork butcher also proposes the one made from Apulian-Cal abrian black pig.
Tanara Giancarlo LANGHIRANO (PR)
A glorious production of PDO Parma ham since 1954. A con tinuous search for quality that has led the second generation to raise the bar with Tanara niche products. The Antico Bi anco line is made from 300-kg pigs’ pork legs locally bred.
STRADA DOGANA, 8 340 8116009 – 348 TENUTASERPEPE.IT4114738
VIA MORETTA, 58 –CANTINAVALTIDONE.IT0523846411
TERRASINI CONTRADA(PA)PIANO DI TERRASINI 3280733802 – BRUNORIBADI.IT
MontecoppeCaseificio (cheese)
from Pinot Nero and Chardon nay grapes, fermented in steel and aged in bottle on the lees for 50 months.
COLLECCHIO (PR) VIA MONTECOPPE (SOTTO), 19/4 0521805942 – MONTECOPPE.IT Located in the Carrega woods in the Regional Park, this dairy boasts a new production plant completed in 2016 and a focus on sustainability. It produces PDO Parmigiano Reggiano with milk from its own farm, pro posed in different maturations. The most popular is 24 months.
In the wine district north of Modena, this winery is a mod ern and sustainable company that started production in 2020 (which inspired the name). It produces mainly sparkling wines from organically grown grapes according to Metodo
Theresianer (beer)
NERVESA DELLA BATTAGLIA (TV)
VIA E. ZANASI, 24 VILLANISALUMI.IT059534411
A historic Trieste-based brand since 1766 (part of the Haus brandt group since 2000), it is linked to the Austrian brewing tradition. Launched last year, its ZEROCINQUANTA top selection includes three unfiltered beers: the blonde lager Guglielmo, the red bock Amleto and the IPA Cordelia.
Additional sector Coppini Arte Olearia (olive oil) SAN SECONDO PARMENSE (PR) STRADA DAL GRUGNO, 3/4 COPPINIARTEOLEARIA.COM0521877601
URBINO – FRAZIONE TRASANNI VIA MAZZACCHERA, 7 0722333098 – ILPANARO.IT Il Panaro Food was founded by Monia Moretti to keep alive the tradition of the crescia sfogliata of Urbino, territory’s gastronom ic heritage and flagship prod uct. Her artisan golden crescia is halfway between a crêpe and a sautéed frittata, also available in mini version.
A historic Italian charcuterie on the cutting edge for 135 years. Despite being a spa and having 7 production sites, Villani has re mained a family business that produces high quality cured meats linked to the territory.
Wine and beer
Villani Salumi
VIA FANTI D’ITALIA, 73 0521852943 –TANARAGIANCARLO.IT0521852944
CASTELNUOVO RANGONE (MO)
Cooperative since 1966 in the heart of Val Tidone, in the hills of Piacenza, it processes the grapes of its 220 members and turns them into different types of wines and a dozen brands. The 50 Vendemmie line in cludes a sparkling Gutturnio Frizzante, made from Barbera and Bonarda grapes vinified as red.
Luretta (wine)
Vecchio Varzi
Salumi Martina Franca MARTINA FRANCA (TA)
Created in 2016 by the Biundo family, this brewery produces 6 different beers: white, Ca-ca-o (Stout with cocoa beans and Modica chocolate), India pale ale, Sicilian pale ale, Sicilian pils, Tripel.
VIA VECCHIA CEGLIE, ZONA LN. 08044905335 –SALUMIMARTINAFRANCA.IT3281634715
VARZI (PV) – VIA CASTELLETTO, 11 VECCHIOVARZI.IT038352340
One of its top products is La Santo PGI Bologna mortadella with fresh garlic.
GAZZOLA (PC)
BORGONOVO VAL TIDONE (PC)
It is the most famous producer of the Varzi PDO salami, Staffora Valley’s traditional salami. Vec chio Varzi produces all types of this cured sausage, including Sottocrespone.
About 494 acres of organic farmland a few kilometres from Lake Bolsena, Domenica Fiorentini’s farm grows legumes and breeds Cinta Senese pigs, fed on cereals and legumes from the farm. Their lard is deli cious.
VentiVenti –Il Borghetto (wine) MEDOLLA (MO)
CASTELLO DI MOMELIANO 0523971070 – LURETTA.COM
In the Castle of Momeliano, Cantina Luretta produces 15 or ganic wines among reds, whites and bubbles. For Salumi da Re 2021 it proposed the Pas Dosé 2017 Metodo Classico, made
Bruno Ribadi (beer)
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202178GAMBERO ROSSO SALUMI DA RE 2021
Specialised since 1946 in the production and distribution of EVO oil. The olives are harvested and ground in Abruzzo, Apulia and Sicily. Among the compa ny’s most representative prod ucts, there are the intense fruity Antico Orcio and the beech wood-smoked Fumè olive oils.
VIA FOSCARINI, 52 – 04228891 THERESIANER.IT
Cantina Valtidone (wine)
Tenuta Serpepe VITERBO – LOCALITÀ SERPEPE
VIA DELLA SALICETA, 15 STRADA PROVINCIALE, 5 3440330771 – VENTIVENTI.IT
Il Panaro Food (bakery products)
gamberorosso.itsalumidare.it
Classico. Try the Lambrusco di Modena Brut Rosé.
BORN IN Gadoni (NU) AGE 49 RESIDENT IN Bolzano SOUS CHEF Arianna Sabbadin AGE OF SOUS CHEF 29 KITCHEN BRIGADE Andrea Fiori, Anthony Grieco, Christian Maggiore, Giordano Tomazzolli, Nagmul Mohmod Mohammad Sanaullah IN THE DINING ROOM Monica Wieser, Robert Wieser, Davide Ungaro, Roberta Chistè, Vito Attolico, Kevin Livia Siguenas, Olga Gravilyuk, Susanna Bajrami SOMMELIER Robert Weiser BEST LOVED INGREDIENT Il carciofo LEAST LOVED INGREDIENT Nessuno THE DISH OF A LIFETIME Uovo caramellato e noce moscata di Ferran Adrià REVERED MAESTRO Non ho un maestro di riferimento, ne rispetto molti MOST ESTEEMED PEER COLLEAGUE Felice Lo Basso MY CUISINE’S HASHTAGS Personal, authorial direct, seasonal, intuitive, fresh, profound,sustainable,understandable,clean ONE WINE ABOVE ALL OTHERS Momofuku Ssäm Bar a New York (USA) IL VINO SOPRA OGNI ALTRO Ex Vero III di Weingut Werlitsch (Austria) DISHES PRESENTED Artichoke | Snails | Eucalyptus Mushroom broth | Almond | Caviar Suckling pig Alfredo 2021 Passion Margarita… with apples LATEST ALBUM DOWNLOADED The soundtrack of Quentin Tarantino's Once Upon a Time in Hollywood LATEST BOOK READ The Game di Alessandro Baricco HAD I NOT BEEN A CHEF… Mountain climber OWNER PARTNER EMPLOYEE SEATS 12 PREVIOUS RESTAURANT Zur Kaiserkron a Bolzano NAME OF THE RESTAURANT In ViaggioClaudio Melis Ristorante RESTAURANT CONTACT INFO Bolzano via Piave, 15inviaggioristorante.com04711684878 NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202180GAMBERO ROSSO RECIPES
by Clara Barra – photos by Stefano Borghesi
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202181GAMBERO ROSSO
- IN VIAGGIO-CLAUDIO
CLAUDIO MELIS MELIS RISTORANTE
2 anchovy fillets
20 g butter
For the snails
artichoke
toasted bread crumble dried artichoke leaf powder
1 clove of garlic cooking water from the artichokes
1 sprig of thyme
For the artichokes, remove the stems, peel them all the way to the heart and soak in water and lemon juice. Re move the leaves until you get to the most tender part; eliminate the top and the inner beard giving a regular shape. Keep all the scraps. Put the cleaned artichokes in a vacuum bag and cook in a steam oven at 90°C for 30 minutes. Cool in ice and water.
Artichoke | Snails | Eucalyptus
4 splashes of natural euca lyptus essence
4 Sardinian spina
500 g water
Forpepperthe
1 thick slice of lardo
20 g extra virgin olive oil
FilzAlexbyphoto NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202182GAMBERO ROSSO RECIPES
INGREDIENTS FOR 4
extra virgin olive oil
12 cooked snails
250 g artichoke scraps
100 g dry white wine
freshlysalt ground black
parsley leaves
For the sauce, put all the artichoke scraps in a saucepan, including the cleaned stems, cover with water and wine and bring to a boil, cooking for 20 minutes. Filter and re duce the liquid to 100 grams by infusing the eucalyptus leaves. Filter and emulsify with an immersion blender together with the anchovies and olive oil until a creamy sauce is obtained. Finish with the essence of eucalyptus. In a little olive oil and butter, gently simmer the stuffed arti chokes, add a few parsley leaves and a little water. Arrange the artichokes with the stems upwards, daub with the warm euca lyptus sauce, garnish with the cooked parsley leaves, the bread crumble and the dried powder of the artichoke leaves.
For the snails, stew the garlic and lard in butter and olive oil, add the snails and season them with salt and a little pepper; sprinkle with the cooking water of the artichokes obtained by draining from the bag. Allow to flavour and remove from the heat. Coarsely chop until the mixture is thick. Stuff the artichokes with the snails.
2 cloves of garlic
50artichokesgdrywhite wine
50 g extra virgin olive oil
20 g extra virgin olive oil
For the eucalyptus sauce
3 dried eucalyptus leaves
100 g sheep’s whey ricotta
2 parsley stalks
INGREDIENTS FOR 4
Mushroom broth | Almond | Caviar
1 Tbsp. almond oil
MELIS - IN VIAGGIO-CLAUDIO MELIS RISTORANTE
nutmegpeppersalt
For the broth, add the dried mushrooms, parsley stalks and thinly sliced cardoncelli mushrooms, then bring everything to a boil. Cook over low heat for 20 minutes, remove from the heat, cover for another 20 minutes, sea son with salt and then filter through a cloth.
1 l light vegetable broth
FilzAlexbyphoto NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202183GAMBERO ROSSO
20 g dried mushrooms
For the mushroom broth
For the almond ravioli, mix the ricotta with the almond paste and almond oil, lemon juice and zest and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Roll out the dough very thin, then make small and beautiful buttons filled with the almond filling.
For the almond ravioli
20 g almond paste
juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
For the Belugaextrapepperfreshlyregularcoarse1140404mushroomscardoncellimediumcardoncelligdrywhitewinegvegetablebrothcloveofgarlicsprigofthymeseasaltsaltgroundblackvirginoliveoilcaviar
100 g fresh cardoncelli mushrooms (or porcini)
mushroom grass thinly sliced spring onion marinated in salt and olive oil
For the cardoncelli, trim them, clean them and wash them briefly. Put them on a baking sheet together with all the other ingredients and bake at 150°C for about 18 minutes. Remove from the oven and cut them into small Sautéwedges.the cardoncelli in a pan with a little olive oil and divide them into 4 plates. Cook the ravioli for 2 minutes in boiling salted water, drain, polish them with a little ol ive oil and place them next to the mushrooms. Garnish with the marinated spring onion, mushroom herb leaves and a teaspoon of caviar. At the end, pour in the boiling mushroom broth over everything.
200 g classic pasta dough
CLAUDIO
10 g julienned spring onion
coarse sea salt
1 l kefir whey
2 g powdered licorice by Amarelli
20 g natural pork stock
For the focaccina, brown the pork shoul der, salt it and dip it in the melted pork fat kept at a temperature of 80°C. Cook for about 8 hours, drain and pull it apart using a fork when it is still hot. In a sauce pan, stew the vegetables briefly in a little olive oil, add the pulled meat and deglaze with vinegar and pork stock, season with salt, pepper and simmer to obtain a sticky Forconsistency.theham, place the slices on a saucer, brush them with a little extra virgin olive oil and garnish with the Romaine leaves.
4 dates stuffed with 4 almonds, and wrapped in Cinta Senese smoked pancetta
4 pieces of dried pork rind
10 g julienned flat green beans
12 leaves of baby romaine lettuce
freshly ground black pepper
1 Amarelli licorice root
500 cl dry white wine
BorghesiStefanobyphoto
For the sauce, toast the pork bones in the oven at 180°C for 1 hour; put them in a saucepan with the garlic and licori ce sticks, deglaze with the white wine and let it evaporate. Cover with cold wa ter and simmer for about 2 hours. Filter through a fine mesh strainer and reduce further with the licorice powder, to obtain a syrupy consistency; filter further with a very fine sieve.
For the licorice sauce
1 rib of celery
1 l melted pork fat
a grating of nutmeg
200 g Shoulder of Cinturello Orvietano pork
400 g pork pancetta by Cinturello Orvietano
4 hare grass leaves
Suckling pig Alfredo 2021
regular fine salt
4 cloves of garlic
horseradish mousse
INGREDIENTS FOR 4
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202184GAMBERO ROSSO RECIPES
For the pancetta, cut it out and rub with coarse salt. Dip it in the kefir whey and marinate overnight in the refrigerator. The next day, dry it and brown it in a little ol ive oil with the peeled and diced vegeta bles. Let it cool and vacuum seal it with the vegetables, garlic and thyme. Cook in a water bath at a controlled temperature of 75°C for 24 hours. Remove the pancetta from the water, place it on a plate with a weight on it and let it cool. Separately, fry the pork rind in boiling oil at 190°C for 20 seconds to obtain a puffed rind.
1 onion
For the maison prosciutto
4 steamed potato scones, each weighing approx. 25 g 10 g julienned carrot
For the pancetta
5 g fresh thyme
extra virgin olive oil
4 estragon leaves
Cut the pancetta into 4 regular portions and brown it in a non-stick pan to obtain a very crispy rind, bake for 3 minutes at 180°C with the dates. In a bowl, place the cube of suckling pig, place the date on the side, garnish with the rind, herbs and finish with the licorice sauce. Warm the steamed focaccina scone for a few sec onds and stuff it with the pan fried pork shoulder. Finish the ham with the horse radish mousse and a grated nutmeg.
2 cloves of garlic
12 slices of home-made Orvietano Cinturello pork ham
For the focaccina
1 carrot
10 g organic red wine vinegar
the carcass and innards of the Cinturello Orvietano pig
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202185GAMBERO ROSSO
CLAUDIO MELIS - IN VIAGGIO-CLAUDIO MELIS RISTORANTE
BorghesiStefanobyphoto
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202186GAMBERO ROSSO RECIPES
Passion Margarita…with apples INGREDIENTS FOR 4 For the apples 2 Golden apples 100 g sugar 40 g water 20 g Triple sec 10 g lemon juice For the passion fruit sorbet 200 g passion fruit purée 200 g water 70 g caster sugar 10 g glucose 1 fresh passion fruit For the Tequila foam 300 g raw sugar 100 g milk 100 g heavy cream 100 g white Tequila 1 gelatin sheet soaked in wa 1terISI siphon 500g 1 ISI charge for whipped cre fresham passion fruit lemon balm tips For the apples, peel them and chop into regular cubes. In a steel pan, caramelize the sugar with the water until they become a dark blond colour, splash in the Triple Sec and lemon juice, dilute with water and bring back to a boil; add the apples and let them candy slowly for about 10 minutes. For the sorbet, mix water, sugar and glucose and bring to a boil. Allow to cool and add the pulp of the fresh fruit and the purée. Stir in an ice cream maker and store in the freezer. For the foam, mix the milk, heavy cream, sugar, the soaked and squeezed gelatin and bring to a boil. Allow to cool and add the Tequila. Put in the siphon and load. Leave to rest for 2 hours in the refrigerator. Heat the apples in a pan and place them in a bowl. Place a quenelle of passion fruit sorbet next to it, partially cover with the foam and garnish with lemon balm leaves and fresh passion fruit.
Foreign labels tasted, explained and evaluated by the Gambero Rosso wine tasters by William Pregentelli, Lorenzo Ruggeri, Marco Sabellico
WORLD WINES
CHANTAL REMY – Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Des Rosiers ‘16
Pez is one of the oldest vineyards in Saint-Estèphe whose origins date back to the 15th century: in June 1995, the Louis Roederer maison did not miss the wonderful opportu nity to get their hands on such a prestigious Château and bought it in order to relaunch it. The vineyards extend for 42 hectares in the western part of the municipality of Saint-Estephe, on clayey-limestone soils rich in skeleton. You can breathe Bordeaux in all its classicism, in this 2018 vintage. Herbaceous and balsamic fragrances, small fresh black fruits, undergrowth anticipate a dense but creamy tannin mouth that conveys the flavour towards a finish with beautiful sensations of officinal herbs.
AU PIED DU MONTE CHAUVE – Chassagne-Montrachet En Pimont ‘15
BARON DE LEY – Rioja Riserva ‘15
The Chantal Remy domaine extends over 3.5 hectares of vineyards, with plots of great prestige: in the Chambertin, in the climat Latricières-Chambertin, in the Clos de la Roche, on the climats of Derrière La Grange and Les Freimer in Chambolle Musigny, to finish with the lieu-dit Aux Cheseaux in Morey St Denis including also the splendid “home” vineyard, the Clos de Rosiers (under monopole regime). From here comes the pinot noir for this fascinating 2016, all played on finesse and elegance: red cherries and currants open the dance and are accompanied by a clear scent of roses counter pointed by balsamic notes. Wonderful in the mouth, as subtle as it is tasty, with hints of fruit, sweet spices, herbaceous nuances and a gust of citrus in the finish.
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A good-natured Tempranillo at a truly affordable price. The gustatory impact is important, with intense tones of mint, chocolate and black cherries. The opening on the palate is warm, voluptuous, and the toasted imprint - the wine ages for about 20 months in barrique - is evident but does not slow down the solid and safe gustatory development. The finish is warm, enveloping with hints of coffee and licorice.
WORLD WINES NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2021GAMBERO ROSSO 89
CHÂTEAU DE PEZ – Saint-Estèphe ‘18
The charismatic Francine Picard is the soul of the company: 35 hectares of vineyards in the villages of Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin and on the Cor ton hill. All the grapes are grown under organic farming, although not certified. The exal tation of the different characteristics of the terroirs is the priority of the Domaine, which produces wines of great precision. En Pimont 2015 is an example of this. An elegantly smokey feature is layered on a background that’s reminiscent of fresh alpine butter, yellow flowers, candied lemon, mint leaves. Oak management is manual and serves only to give a more creamy tactile nuance to the palate, invigorated by mineral and chalky tones.
We are in the Loire, and we approach a Chenin Blanc of particular richness and com plexity. The wine offers evolved and soft tones, from mountain butter to yellow flowers, with an almost brackish background. On the palate it shows a generous and very tasty fruity pulp, it is fat but also dynamic, with a truly original and captivating bouquet of spices. The finish is peppery, long and savoury, with an enthralling drinkability. The price? Definitely attractive.
We were truly enthralled by the embroidered and very fine character of this Chenin Blanc, the result of biodynamic vineyards in the Saumur area. The aromas open slowly and dance between marine, oyster, flint and white flower notes. The mouth is heady, bright in tension and flavour, with a light citrus aftertaste and a more intense sapid pro file (fleur de sel we wrote in our notes) capable of outlining a taste parable of personality and perfect definition. Long and harmonious finish.
DOMAINE DE ROCHES-NEUVES – Saumur L’Insolite ‘19
Saint Aubin is a small village located just south of the Côte de Beaune. Here, in 1988, the wine adventure of Dominique began, who currently grows just over five hectares planted with pinot noir and chardonnay: the vineyard and cellar are conducted in bio dynamic. La Combe is a Chardonnay that carefully plays with oxidation: pungent on the nose, as it opens it recalls ripe red apple, white flowers and white currant. Some rusticity does not affect a large and juicy mouth, made lively thanks to the acidity, and certainly gastronomic: we thought of it paired with seared foie gras placed on a sliced apple.
IMaison Dieu is a selection of Pinot Noir grown in the Cote de Nuits, from vines of over 60 years on soils rich in clay and limestone. The nose is rustic, with notes of leather and pepper, along with dark and ripe fruit. The mouth is pulpy, with sensations of plum and currant, with a rather incisive tannic note, for a pepper and coffee finish.
DOMAINE DE BELLENE – Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes Maison Dieu ‘18
DOMAINE BELLUARD – Ayse Brut Zéro Terroir du Mont-Blanc ‘15
CHÂTEAU DE VILLENEUVE – Saumur Les Cormiers ‘17
VINIMONDOCLASSIFICHE90
DOMAINE DERAIN – Bourgogne Blanc La Combe ‘19
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202190GAMBERO ROSSO LE
Loira, euroAmadèItalydistributedvilleneuve.comchateau-de-Loira,eurodadistribuitoSavoia,euroItalydistributedcomdomainedebellene.Borgogna,euroLesItalydistributedBorgogna,eurodeItalydistributedrochesneuves.comFranciainbyLesCavesPyrene36FranciainbyCavesdePyrene44FranciainbyVisconti4331FranciaPropostaVini65FranciainbySarzi30
The aromatic profile of this Classic Method produced in Savoy, within the municipality of Aysen, between Chamonix and Geneva, with vineyards reaching 500 meters above sea level is certainly unusual. In this case the protagonist is the gringet grape which is exuberant in an intense breath of cloves and aromatic herbs. The mouth is particularly dry, with a very evident tannic note and a very evolved pear fruit, for an evolution of fla vour that’s not for everyone, but with a notable gustatory impact. The finish is marked by tobacco and dried fruit.
DOMAINE JOSEPH DROUHIN – Côte de Beaune Rouge ‘17
DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT – Alsace Riesling Heimbourg ‘18
We’re here among the vineyards on the hills not far from the city of Beaune, for a Pinot Noir that has already achieved a remarkable gustatory harmony. The aromas range from small red fruits to delicately herbaceous sensations. On the palate the tannin is gentle and perfectly sized to the body of the wine. The imprint is fragrant, with a very fragrant and pleasant fruit, in the background a well-defined floral trace and an excellent acidic shoulder. The result is a red that is nothing short of pleasant to drink.
The Humbrecht family is among the oldest wine producers in Alsace. There are many gen erations of winemakers who have followed the family footsteps: 12 to be precise, but it was only in 1959 that the domaine was born, when the parents of the current owner, Olivier, got married and thus joined the family businesses. Among the company’s labels we tasted the Gewürstraminer Roche Roulée ‘18; the aromatic profile is flamboyant. It is striking for the impetuousness of the aromas that are released, the classic ones of the aro matic traminer: lychee, sweet rose, orange blossom water. The mouth is soft and envelop ing and recalls candied citrus fruits; the finish curls slightly on vaguely bitter sensations.
“French Soul - Oregon Soil” is the motto of this US project, started in 1992, of the Do maine Drouhin, one of the most important companies in Burgundy, with a 73-hectare vineyard in Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Chablis, with more than two thirds of Premier Cru and Grands Cru. And the French soul is perceived entire ly in this American white; sugared almonds, lemon cream, yellow flowers, chalk, flint, mint: an intense and elegant aromatic profile that anticipates a snappy and energetic mouth, precise and defined, infiltrating and wonderfully tasty.
DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT – Alsace Gewürstraminer Roche Roulée ‘18
This cuvée signed by the historic Courteron maison in Aube was a true surprise. Here the management has been working in biodynamics for 30 years and the wines offer a truly rare quality of fruit. Variation is a novelty: it is a pure pinot gris cuvée, the vinifica tion takes place in oak, without filtering, dosage and addition of sulfites. The aromatic profile is vinous, ranging from kaiser pears to walnut husks, evolved but also inviting. The mouth has a lot of character, with rustic notes of almond, wild herbs and a deep savoury vein. It has tension, flavour and contrast.
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Léonard Humbrecht and his son Olivier have worked over the years to expand the vine yard of the company. Between ‘77 and ‘87 various valuable vineyards were purchased that enrich the company assets: Clos Saint Urban, Brand, Heimbourg, Clos Jebsal and Clos Windsbuhl. Currently the planted area is 40 hectares, entirely cultivated according to the criteria of biodynamics. The Riesling Heimbourg sports a fragrant and elegant nose in the typical tones of hydrocarbons and flint, well blended with more sunny fresh yellow peaches, gooseberries and aromatic herbs. Sensations of white and pink pepper introduce a mouth that boasts a creamy, enveloping consistency, which recalls candied lemons, punctuated by a nice savoury suggestion.
DOMAINE JOSEPH DROUHIN – Arthur Chardonnay ‘17
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202191GAMBERO ROSSO VINIMONDO
FLEURY – Champagne Brut Nature Variation ‘14
The name of the company is inspired by the gray sandstone pebbles that Kevin Judd, a pio neer of New Zealand viticulture, and his wife Kimberly found in their first vineyards planted in Rapaura. Pinot Noir and Sauvignon are the protagonists of Kevin’s vineyards; of the latter we tasted an excellent 2019. The grapes are fermented partly in steel with selected yeasts, partly with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels. What emerges is a white with a very original aromatic profile that clearly recalls habanero and friggitelli peppers. As it opens, sensations of white pepper and sage, lime zest and lemongrass emerge. All this turns into a solid and compact mouth, of good consistency, with peppery lashes that return in a long finish.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202192GAMBERO ROSSO LE
This cuvée signed by the historic Courteron maison in Aube was a true surprise. Here the management has been working in biodynamics for 30 years and the wines offer a truly rare quality of fruit. Variation is a novelty: it is a pure pinot gris cuvée, the vinifica tion takes place in oak, without filtering, dosage and addition of sulfites. The aromatic profile is vinous, ranging from kaiser pears to walnut husks, evolved but also inviting. The mouth has a lot of character, with rustic notes of almond, wild herbs and a deep savoury vein. It has tension, flavour and contrast.
FRANCK BONVILLE – Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Prestige
JOHANN RUCK – Franken Iphöfer Riesling Trocken ‘19
GREYWACKE – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ‘19
Francois Villard is now one of the most successful winemakers in this area of France. He cultivates vineyards that extend for 35 hectares in almost all the Appellations of North ern Rhone. Certitude ‘17 is a Crozes-Hermitage, in this case with a pure Syrah that is felt in the classic notes of black olives refreshed by herbaceous, almost balsamic sensations; sweet spices, cacao, toasted sensations and goudron make their way, all converging in a very dense tannic palate that stiffens slightly in the finish.
FRANCOIS VILLARD – Crozes-Hermitage Certitude ‘17
The reins of the Domaine Joseph Voillot have been in the hands of Jean-Pierre Charlot since 1995, who manages about ten hectares of vineyards in the municipalities of Vol nay, Pommard, Meursault and Beaune. Minimalist: this is the word that best describes Jean-Pierre’s oenological thinking. Once the grapes arrive in the cellar, they indulge their characters, leaving them free to express their personality. This is also what hap pens in the Les Pezèrolles ‘17: trails of flowers and red fruits mark a bouquet finely counterpointed by a never invasive sweet spiciness, also refreshed by balsamic sugges tions. Tannin is slightly rougher than what can be tasted in his Volney, but conveys fla vour and gives rhythm to the sip that closes on an intriguing sensation of bitter orange.
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JOSEPH VOILLOT – Pommard Premier Cru Les Pèzerolles ‘17
VINIMONDOCLASSIFICHE92
Iphofen is a small town in Franconia, the German region which in the Middle Ages was the largest wine area in Germany. Today it is known above all for quality viticulture and the Ruck family is among its protagonists, with a long history that plunges its oenolog ical roots in the year 1839. The Riesling we tasted has a fine nose that plays with her baceous sensations; citrus and classic shades of hydrocarbons; the mouth is pleasant, lively, with herbaceous sensations that return in the savoury finish.
In the Loire Valley for a Chenin Blanc that smells of yellow peach and Mediterranean scrub, with a background of almonds and walnuts. The mouth is particularly rich and juicy, with a spicy note, a herbaceous tone and a finish that recalls lemon peel. The finish is clear and fast, with an exuberant character that will soften with a few extra months in the bottle.
The quality of the bubbles produced in the United Kingdom has reached a level of qual ity that is still little known in Italy. Climate change plays an important role, as does the awareness of some increasingly structured and ambitious wineries. This is the case of the Nyetimber winery, in Sussex. We were impressed by the character and finesse of this cuvée made from chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes. It opens very fresh on iodized and flint tones, with a background of lime and coriander. The mouth is slender, taut and chalky, relaunched not by the fruit but by a deep sapid vein, for a very original crescendo.
M. CHAPOUTIER – Domaine des Granges de Mirabel Viognier ‘18
Whenmeats.we
NYETIMBER – Blanc de Blancs Brut ‘13
Not that far from Barcelona, in the wine region of Penedès, tasting a Classic Method from xarel-lo, macabeu and parellada grapes. The nose is surprising due to an evolved and toasted character, with notes of butter, hazelnut and coffee. The mouth is soft, with tertiary notes that meet an important and generous fruity pulp, with notes of dried fruit and a long and vinous finish. A mealtime sparkling wine, perfect paired with white
talk about Chapoutier we refer to a historical surname of the Rhone wine pro duction; the family’s wine business, as a matter of fact, began as early as 1808. At the helm of the company since 1990 is Michel, who over the years has focused on the differ ences of the individual terroirs. The Domaine des Granges de Mirabel is a pure Viognier which, despite not doing time in oak, has an aromatic and gustatory timbre that recalls it, especially in the buttery sensations felt on the palate, round and enveloping, with hints of white apple, honey and canned peach.
MONMOUSSEAU – Touraine Brut Zéro L’Essentiel
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202193GAMBERO ROSSO VINIMONDO
MAS BERTRAN – Nalma Brut Reserva ‘14
From the south of England with a partial change in register with their Blanc de Blancs Brut 2013 which compared to the Classic Cuvée offers fragrant and soft tones of toasted bread and hazelnut, embellished with brackish sensations. The sparkle is fine and ca ressing, the opening on the palate is reminiscent of custard, with fresh citrusy hues and an almond profile that we find right up to the finish. It is rich, broad in development, with a balanced and pulpy finish.
West
euroItalydistributedchapoutier.comRodano,euroItalydistributedmasbertran.comSpagnaAlto-Penedès,euroItalydistributedmonmousseau.comLoira,euroItalydistributednyetimber.comRegnoWesteuroItalydistributednyetimber.comRegnoSussex,UnitoinbyMeregalli83Sussex,UnitoinbyMeregalli58FranciainbyPremière23inbyPremière20FranciainbyMeregalli17
NYETIMBER – Classic Cuvée Brut
In the 23 owned hectares of vineyards that he cultivates in the heart of Savoy, Philippe Grisard is carrying out an interesting project to rediscover the rare Alpine native grape varieties, some almost disappeared, many unknown. This Opulent is a pure Roussanne. Nomen omen: already on the nose it’s striking for the richness of the aromas of ripe yellow fruits, hazelnut, butter, broom, acacia honey. Even in the mouth the sensations are similar: the softness of honey and ripe apples go to flavour a dense and... “opulent”
PALMER & CO – Brut Réserve
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202194GAMBERO ROSSO LE
confirmation for the maison founded in 1899. In this case it’s a cuvée that exclusively features pinot noir. The opening is floral, of violets and roses, with a back ground of coffee and licorice. The mouth is vibrant, with notes of currant and slightly unripe raspberries, and a very fresh undertone of mint. Still a little compressed as a profile, but of sure charm: the finish is subtle but also lively and tasty.
of vineyards that insist on about forty Crus (between Premiere and Grand Cru are over 200 hectares) make Palmer one of the largest and most solid maison in the Champagne region. For Vinimondo we tasted the Brut Réserve in magnum bottle (to which the above price refers): 30% vin de réserve and 10% solera are used for the as sembly of this Cuvée; aging on the lees lasts six years. It’s striking for the freshness and fragrance of the aromas where white flowers, citrus pulp, a slight nuance of hazelnut are mixed, sensations that return to an agile and light mouth, which in the finish becomes deep and multifaceted.
PANNIER – Champagne Blanc de Noirs ‘14
PALMER & CO – Brut Vintage ‘05
In Champagne for this selection by Pannier, the maison is located in the municipality of Chateau-Thierry and has always made integrity and cleanliness of flavour their trade mark. The cuvée is a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier almost in equal parts. What a beautiful freshness and overall balance! It offers fine and clear hints of lemon and freshly baked bread. The sparkle is graceful, the mouth is agile and tonic, with a vivid citrus return and a linear and very pleasant smoothness of taste. Perfect as an
PANNIER – Champagne Brut Sélection
for this vintage Champagne come exclusively from the Montaigne de Reims vineyards: pinot noir and chardonnay blended to create a cuvée which, in the case of the magnum version, remains on the lees for 12 years. The result is a wine with multi faceted aromas ranging from candied citrus, to alpine butter, to pastries, all in a rather elegant register. The mouth is deep and complex, harmonising between enveloping and
Theaperitif.grapes
Thefreshness.415hectares
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PHILIPPE GRISARD – Savoie Chignin-Bergeron Opulent ‘18
VINIMONDOCLASSIFICHE94
Anothermouth.
SIMONNET-FEBVRE – Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Blanc
A real gem. We were simply fascinated by the very fine and multifaceted complexity of this Tawny Port from the 2005 harvest. The aromas are reminiscent of dates, dried figs. And it’s enough to wait just a few seconds to encounter an enchanting spice register, from nutmeg to pepper, and then tamarind in the background. The mouth is tense with flavour and details, with delicate toasted notes and a spicy tip to liven up a picture of extreme beauty. The finish is endless.
The villages of Krems and Stein form the backdrop to the wine adventure of the Salo mon-Undhof family, engaged in wine production since 1792. The 25 hectares of vine yards of the company occupy some of the best terraces on the banks of the Danube. The result is a production that is mainly based on riesling and grüner veltliner. We tasted a version of the latter, the one coming from a single vineyard called Wachtberg. It is a 2017 that reminds the nose of brackish sensations infused with laurel; a suggestion of almond anticipates a mouth rich with herbaceous features. Despite the years on its shoulders, the wine is still compressed: it will still need some time to loosen.
SIMONNET-FEBVRE – Chablis ‘18
SALOMON UNDHOF – Kremstal Grüner Veltliner Wachtberg Erste Lage ‘17
SYBILLE KUNTZ – Mosel Riesling Trocken ‘19
First the degree in Economics, then the occupation as vigneron; in the middle passion and curiosity for the world of wine that is born thanks to an experience working in a wine shop. In the 20 hectares of company vineyards there are no other grapes other than riesling, grown following the principles of biodynamic agriculture. Riesling Trocken ‘19 represents the first step of the qualitative pyramid of Sybille wines, but it is certainly a good calling card: yellow flowers (broom), magnolia, peach, medlar, fresh apricot: the nose is a riot of sweet fragrances that converge in a mouth with a soft opening, but with an agile gait, underlined by vibrations of minerality.
The history of the maison begins in 1840 and ranks among the oldest and most tradi tional wineries in the area. More recently, in 2003, the company was acquired by Mai son Louis Latour and is currently managed by Jean-Philippe Archambaud. The vineyard allows the production of the four levels of Appelation of the territory: Petit-Chablis, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (including Fourchaume and Mont de Milieu) and Chablis Grand Cru. The Chablis ‘18 we tasted the smells of lime blossom and saffron; the mouth is played on the same register, notes of butter and chlorophyll appear in the finish, on a simple and flowing palate.
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 202195GAMBERO ROSSO VINIMONDO
Simonnet-Febvre has been producing the Classic Method since 1840, and is today the only maison in the Chablis region to produce Crémant de Bourgogne; in this case a blend of chardonnay (60%) and pinot noir (40%), which ages in bottle on the lees for 24 months. The nose is herbaceous, with notes of hay, almond and lime. The mouth is linear, with a fresh and dry finish, with returns of freshly cut grass.
tastings by Marco Sabellico, Lorenzo Ruggeri, William Pregentelli, Giuseppe Carrus, Luca Pirlo
QUINTA DO NOVAL – Tawny Port Colheita ‘05
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Rossella Fantina LAYOUT
