Gambero Rosso Wine Travel Food n.148 by Gambero Rosso

WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

CIAO Pio pio cesare, an extraordinary vertical tasting BEST FOOD MARKETS IN ROME

NICOLA PORTINARI SIGNATURE DISHES

year 23 - number 148 - may-june 2021 - gamberorosso.it

SOMMARIO WINE

T R AV E L

FOOD

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Editorial

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News

 12 

The Wine to Buy

 13 

Seasonal Cocktail

 17 

My Export. Alessia Maggialetti - Plantamura

 22 

World Tour. Let’s make up for lost time, green light for in-person Gambero rosso Events

CIAO Pio

 22 

Roma Doc

pio cesare, an extraordinary vertical tasting

 28 

Pio Cesare. An extraordinary Vertical

BEST FOOD MARKETS IN ROME

NICOLA PORTINARI SIGNATURE DISHES

year 23 - number 148 - may-june 2021 - gamberorosso.it

 42 

Rome. Eating at the market following the example of Madrid

 60 

Great chefs: Nicola Portinari

 68 

Oli d’Italia 2021 Champions

 78 

Tasting Notes

17 60

The summer to come With summer just around the corner we want to visit the wonderful territories that surround us. Countryside, sea, mountains, lakes, small villages near us are ready to be explored and savoured. We are preparing to experience a new season «en plein air» comforted by the progress of the vaccination roll-out. A summer that’s full of opportunities for Italy’s tourism and hopefully for the return of visitors from all over the world. Food and wine is history, culture, tradition, territory as well as cuisine, flavours and sensations: therefore among the undisputed protagonists of this operation. The food and wine sector is a driving force for the entire dining and hospitality supply chain; if properly used it can make a significant contribution to the Italian restart plan. The progress of the vaccination campaign and the summer season lead us towards optimism, corroborated by the great desire for goals reached in order to share the story, traditions, culture, art, food and wine of the Made in Italy approach. Living in the open air, promoting local tourism to discover and rediscover our cities, places of art, national parks, wonderful villages and inland production areas of our excellence. We have decided to dedicate this issue to a great man from the Langhe, who left us a few months ago, Pio Boffa, owner of Pio Cesare, collecting his precious testimony. We are sure that his daughter Federica and the entire winery team will be able to guide Pio Cesare towards new ambitious goals. With this issue we take you to the Rome neighbourhood markets which, following the example of other large European venues, are increasingly turning into “gastro markets” i.e.places where, in addition to buying basic necessities, it’s possible to taste traditional dishes, mainly in the street food version, but which often also present new and intriguing cross pollination. A gastronomic tour in the districts of the eternal city, one more way to experience our cities in a different way, savouring the excellent products that have made us famous all over the world. And let’s resume talking about “Italian gold” with an event dedicated to the extra virgin olive oil champions awarded in the eleventh edition of our Oils of Italy guide. We give space to a new column, “Tasting Notes” dedicated to the wine excellence awarded with the Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi, the flagships of the Vini d’Italia guide: small productions and prestigious best sellers, in a review that involves the best labels tasted by our experts. Italy has an immense landscape, natural, agricultural and agri-food heritage. The places of production of the 526 DOCG, DOC, IGT wines is the result of a biodiversity that makes us unmistakable around the world – confirmed as tourist destinations, and the engine of tourism from which Italy can now restart. - Paolo Cuccia

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NEWS

Change of pace at Eleven Madison Park in New York: it will offer vegan cuisine On June 10, in New York, Eleven Madison Park will reopen its doors after many months of hiatus. But nothing will ever be the same again. The vegetal shift of one of the most well-known and appreciated restaurants in the world is the result of a thoughtful choice by chef Daniel Humm, who was pushed by the pandemic to change his skin. “In the last year the world has changed, and consequently we did too. What happened made it even clearer that the current food system is simply not sustainable, for many different reasons.” So, from now on, Eleven Madison Park will offer a menu sans meat, fish and animal prod-

ucts: a signature vegan cuisine that is the result of in-depth research: “We spent days developing totally vegetable milk, butter and spreads. We also tried to create the tastiest broths without meat… We explored the world of fermentation, and understood that time is a precious ally. What at first seemed like limits became grounds for new freedom. And we are only at the beginning.” The tasting menu will be offered at a price of $335, and for each menu consumed at the restaurant, five free meals will be delivered to people in need in New York, thanks to the Rethink Food project and the Eleven Madison Truck.

The best food photos of the year comes from China It’s called Taste, and it was snapped by Huaifeng Li: the most beautiful gastronomic photo of 2021. The award is the best known international food photography competition in the world, the Pink Lady Food Photographer of the Year, which as usual will be followed by an exhibition staged at the Royal Photography Society in Bristol next autumn. The Chinese photographer wins the victory with an interior portrait of almost pictorial density, thanks to the skilled use of light. The photo, taken in Licheng, portrays a family intent on preparing dumplings, and the whole scene is illuminated by the smile of a little girl, who experiences this moment of family intimacy as a game, while her father and mother turn their backs to the camera, focus on their chore. “A great shot that shows us that photography doesn’t need to be disturbing at all costs to be memorable,” says award director Caroline Kenyon. Among the honourable mentions, category winners for The Claire Aho Award for Women Photographers and Politics of Food sections are two Italian photographers: Marina Spironetti with the portrait of a young butcher at work in Dario Cecchini’s shop in Panzano in Chianti; and Sandro Maddalena with an intense shot, entitled “Old friends,” gathered around a table in Georgia in Tskaltubo, in the desolation of a makeshift accommodation that welcomes refugees from Abkhazian, victims of the Georgian conflict.

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NEWS

GDO. In 4 months Italian sales went up 20% in value. Quality wines and denomination of origin wines are in great recovery driving sales of the wine sector in the Italian large-scale distribution in the first four months of 2021, with volume increases of 8.1% and 20 percentage points in values. In 2020 the respective increases were 6.6% and 8.7% in 4 months. The IRI data, illustrated during a webinar organised by Veronafiere in view of the special edition of Vinitaly (October 17-19), indicate that Italians have purchased 22 million liters more, at a cost of 180 million euros. Big box stores (+6.5%), supermarkets (+10.7%) and discount stores (+11.8%) were positive compared to small shops (–6.2%) who were the most advantaged during the pandemic. In particular, the growth of sparkling wines is strong, compared to the still wine items, considering that a year ago bubbles were the most penalised by lockdowns and by the general climate of concern due to the pandemic. Prosecco is good but also sweet wines made with Moscato. Preferences for regional wines are also increasing and the sales contribution of e-commerce remains high (1.6% in value and 1% in voConsumers reward lume), which is double PDOs and mediumcompared to a year high ranges. Regional ago. But, above all, wines are doing well growing the most in and now the online 2021 are medium-high share has doubled and high price ranges and wines with appellations. A “revenge” as Virgilio Romano (IRI) defined it, compared to the bad debts that some premium and super-premium categories (in particular above the 15-20 euro price tag) had suffered in the first 4 months of 2020. A trend that’s also confirmed by the buyers for Coop Italia (Alessandor Masetti) and Carrefour (Gian Maria Politi) How will 2021 close? Three hypotheses illustrated by Romano: A) With a volume trend equal to the last 8 months of 2020, it will be possible to grow by 6.1% in value and 2.6% in volume. B) If, on the other hand, the trend will be similar to the last 8 months of 2019, the estimate is +0.2% in value and –1.5% in volume. C) Lastly, continuing with the rhythms of the last two months of 2021 (excluding Easter) it will go to +15% in value and + 4.5% in volume. C

CMY

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NEWS

Inside Eataly London The first Eataly store in the United Kingdom was inaugurated at the end of April, while the city was in full swing. Spread over 4,000 square metres on two floors, in Broadgate (near Liverpool Street station), the London store houses the market for made in Italy products, the School for tastings, meetings, cooking lessons, and four restaurants, one of which outdoors. The market offers Londoners the opportunity to choose from 5,000 Italian references, with some products reaching the city for the first time. As usual, the shoppers can also benefit from the fresh produce stalls and a bakery, butcher, fishmonger, delicatessen with cured meats and cheeses. More than 2,000 wine labels make the Eataly London cellar the largest Italian wine cellar in Europe outside of Italy, while the dairy produces mozzarella and fresh cheeses daily. On the terrace there is also space for the Aperol Spritzeria, with cocktails, wine and beer. Instead, we will have to wait until September for the inauguration of Terra, the franchise’s restaurant focused on grilling. And for the first time in an Eataly store, a refill section for products sold in bulk aims to reduce the environmental impact of packaging (in keeping with the objectives of Green Pea, Oscar Farinetti’s latest project opened in Turin).

50 Next. The young people who are changing the future of food 50 Next is not a ranking, but rather a reasoned list that, for the first time, brings together the most promising young people at work to revolutionise the food and wine sector. The initiative starts from the same organization hive of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants (with the scientific support of the Basque Culinary Centre in San Sebastian), but focuses on all that is good beyond dining, bringing together fifty young people under 35 from 34 countries around the world. The reference horizon of the “award” is varied, which in identifying young people capable of changing the world of gastronomy, mentions producers, technological innovators, activists, creators, cooks, scientists. The cooks represent only a small minority of the selection, which instead ranges from the Peruvian producer Manuel Choqque, capable of inventing “potato wine,” to the South African researcher Leah Bessa who develops insect-based nutrition, to the Lebanese activist Maya Terro, who founded the FoodBlessed organization in Beirut, to fight hunger. For Italy there is only one name, the heroic winemaker Gian Marco Viano, at work in the Doc Carema area, on the border between Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta.

Italian rice lands in China In Europe, Italy is the leading producer of rice in terms of quantity and variety, ensuring over 50% of the continent’s production and making quality a reference value to safeguard the made in Italy product from the fierce and low-cost competition of non-EU rice. The latest milestone reached, as the result of patient diplomatic negotiations, however, has a strong symbolic value, as well as great commercial potential. For the first time Italian rice arrived in China, a country that has made rice the symbol of its culture, both rural and gastronomic, and a pillar of the Italian rice figures daily diet. In all, there are 17 companies in central-northern 228,000 hectares of rice paddies Italy (between Vercelli, Novara, 90% of the crops are concentrated in Alessandria, Pavia, Verona, but the Novara, Vercelli, Pavia triangle also Modena, Mantua and FerOver 4,000 rice farms rara) which now, after passing Over 200 varieties grown rigorous quality controls, will The best known varieties: be able to export their product Carnaroli, Arborio, Roma, Baldo, to China. aiming to reach a toVialone Nano, Sant’Andrea tal of 150,000 tonnes per year sent to Beijing.

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DAL 1881 ATTRAVERSO 5 GENERAZIONI ALBA www.piocesare.it

GAMBERO ROSSO X ISOLA AUGUSTA

An oasis of taste: Isola Augusta

Everything comes from a discovery. It was 1959 when Renzo Bassani found two bottles of wine, jealously kept under the sand by his then farmer, in an old estate he had bought, nestled between the Tagliamento and Stella rivers. He fell in love with that wine and sensed the potential of a territory that already Gino Veronelli, one of the greatest food and wine journalists, considered a veritable cru. Thus the houses of the farmers who lived in the area were renovated, the old vineyards were renovated and the adventure of the Isola Augusta winery began.

The Adriatic Sea is quite close and lends its influence on soils that have a very peculiar percentage of clay, and that have been cultivated since Roman times. Via Annia leading to Aquileia, one of the most important cities of the past, carved through the property. Now at the helm is Renzo’s son Massimo Bassani, together with grandson Jacopo, who boldly carried out and expanded the project which today is divided into about 70 hectares of vineyards, for an annual production of almost 300,000 bottles. Massimo is a staunch supporter of tradition. The grapes planted in

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GAMBERO ROSSO X ISOLA AUGUSTA

1 The winery house 2 The vineyard 3 The winery offer also accomodation

The wines listed in the Vini d’Italia 2021 guide

2 3

the rows are typical of the area: Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo; and then Glera, Pinot Grigio and Schioppettino. Committed for some time to healthy and sustainable viticulture, the winery uses a geothermal system and solar panels to cover its entire energy needs, while the vineyards are managed with low environmental impact systems. The accommodation offer is very artic-

ulated, between hospitality and wine tourism, 10 new apartments have been created in the company complex to fully experience the cellar, including guided tours of the vineyards, the barrel room, wine tastings paired with the best local products, including excellent cured meats and cheeses from a territory that has little to envy even in terms of gastronomy.

 Isola Augusta – Via Casali Isola Augusta, 4 - Palazzolo dello Stella (UD)

www.isolaugusta.com

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In the latest wine guide printed, Gambero Rosso regional tasters particularly appreciated two company wines. This is the Chardonnay Les Iles 2018, scented with golden apple and elderberry, distinctly fragrant, with good volume and a long and tasty finish. Among the reds, the preference went to the multifaceted and spicy tones of licorice and cocoa belonging to the 2017 Cabernet Augusteo, with a rich, full and ripe fruit.

NEWS

THE WINE TO BUY Collio 2018 EDI KEBER Cormòns(GO) www.edikeber.it Average retail price: 18 euros

In this issue we’re recommending one of the purest expressions of Collio. The history of the Keber family is closely linked to Medana and Zegla, two border villages that have repeatedly “changed hands” between Italy, Slovenia and Austria, but which never stopped producing their best fruit, grapes. Today, Edi and his son Kristian cultivate 12 hectares of vineyards with passion and competence, and have managed to synthesise the entire production in a single wine: Collio Bianco. Courageously Edi has in fact chosen to bring together all the grapes in this label, also renouncing the much appreciated Friulano, precisely because of the desire to put Collio before any other appellation, a choice made even more evident by the use of the bottle dedicated precisely to the Collio. His was nothing more than a return to his origins, since there used to be no such thing as producing single-variety wines. Tocai Friulano, Malvasia Istriana and Ribolla Gialla were vinified together, and the result was a stylistic complexity that underlined the identity of the territory. In last year’s edition we praised the courage of their decision to postpone the release of the only white wine produced. The move paid off, benefitting the wine’s aromatic balance and gustatory harmony. The Collio 2018 unveils delicious, floral aromas of jasmine and acacia blossom, calling up freshly-cut grass from mountain meadows, rich in flowers and especially wild herbs. In the mouth it’s more than vivid and fragrant, unfolding progressively. We fell in love with its sharp, both elegant and classy finish. The aging potential here is immense, we strongly believe that this wine will reach his peak within the next 10 years. Food pairings? We will go with white meats here rather than seafood, what about well made fried chicken? Plus, this fabulous wine is offered at a very honest price. If we’ve piqued your curiosity, please try the Brda wine produced by Kristian Keber at Kozlink in the Goriska Brda: simply one of the most expressive orange wine we tasted in the last year.

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SPIRITS

SEASONAL SEASONAL COCKTAIL COCKTAIL byPaola Paola Mencarelli Mencarelli by

LE CAPUCINE Yuri Gelmini - Surfer’s Garden, Milano 5 cl Peloton de la Muerte Mezcal Joven 2 cl pineapple cold pressed juice 1,5 cl lime juice 1 cl agave syrup 5 nasturtium leaves salt and brined caper crust

Glass: Cocktail cup Technique: Shake and Fine Strain Garnish: Edible nasturtium flower

drink designed to use fresh nasturtium flowers and leaves, both edible, freshly picked from the plant. Originally from Peru, nasturtium was imported to Europe in the 17th century and used for its therapeutic properties against vitamin C deficiency. The leaves, shaken in the drink, have a slightly spicy flavour that amplifies the smoky notes of mezcal. The pineapple juice and lime juice give fruity and citrus tones that refresh the palate, all balanced by the sweetness of the agave syrup. The final touch is a salt enriched with a powder of dehydrated brined capers, which induces to take another sip. A curiosity: the buds of the nasturtium flower - which have not yet shown any petal tips - can be salted or pickled. Also called "poor man's capers," they are perfect for an aperitif!

BARTENDER: Yuri Gelmini, born in 1983, attended hotel management school in Milan with a clear passion for pastry. After interrupting his studies to devote himself to his family business, he did not abandon mixology and, in 2009, in partnership with Irene Bottura, he took over management of the Surfer’s Den bar (which from 2019 is called Surfer’s Garden). He collaborated with important brands such as Martini and Lucano, participated in various competitions and won the title of “Bartender of the Year’’ at the Bargiornale 2020 Barawards. Barman-Gardener, as he likes to define himself, finds in the plant world a source of inspiration for the creation of individual cocktails and entire menus. Plants, herbs and flowers are his indispensable work companions. “I observe their behaviours and requests, and adapt to their availability, for a collaboration that does not follow the rule of plant = ingredient, but rather extends to the concept of plant = idea.” Studying a cocktail becomes a creative and synergistic act, as well as interactive is the customer’s choice from experimental cocktail lists such as “The Botany of Desire” or “When you’ll learn to be,” where imagination also plays with unusual characteristics of plants such as sun exposure, position in the garden and sociability.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X GRAND HOTEL POLTU QUATU

Poltu Quatu, a corner of Sardinia in the name of sea, flavour and total relaxation

bination of relaxation and luxury. The Grand Hotel, also perfectly integrated, has 143 rooms of different types, all with sea view and fully equipped with amenities. In

Not just a hotel, not just a resort complex. Poltu Quatu is much more: a unique place, where guests can enjoy a 360-degree experience. Thus begins our walk along the narrow streets of the “hidden harbour,” this is the translation from the Gallura dialect of its name. Reached from SS 125 Orientale Sarda: near Arzachena continue along province road number 59. Up to the entrance, it goes unnoticed: on one side granite rocks that accompany us with the reflections of the sun, constantly changing colour, on the other Mediterranean scrub that paints brushstrokes of green. Thus begins our walk along the narrow streets of the “hidden harbour,” this is the translation from the Gallura dialect of its name. Once inside, you are immersed in a delightful village of white houses, with curved lines and perfectly integrated with nature. In a moment you can see the sea, the marina, the view is lost along the inlet and traces the direction towards Caprera and the horizon; on clear days, it’s not difficult to see Corsica. The resort was born in the Eighties and immediately became one of the most sought-after destinations by the international jet set thanks to the perfect com-

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A stroll through Poltu Quatu, between gastronomy and relaxation From Japanese to Mexican, from bistro to French to finish with Brazilian churrascaria... plus cafes, gourmet sandwich joints, classic Italian restaurants and the inevitable pizzeria, Poltu Quatu’s gastronomic offer is vast and varied: there is really plenty of choice and everything is within walking distance. The sea view restaurant is transformed into an exclusive venue with a dinner show by internationally renowned artists that animate the nights of July and August in Poltu Quatu. The Poltu Quatu fitness area offers a wide range of alternatives: from the uniqueness of the location along the pier with the Heaven gym by Technogym to the new Poltu Quatu Padel Club; and two more tennis courts and Cryotherapy services at the Longevity Suite. And then, there is also a space for corporate summits and business meetings, with a conference centre of 450 square meters, an area with modular environments to give a true tailor-made service.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X GRAND HOTEL POLTU QUATU

1. The swimming pool of the Grand Hotel Poltu Quatu 2. View of the Marina dell’Orso 3. A glimpse of the swimming pool from the balcony of one of the hotel rooms 4. The Tanit Restaurant overlooking the inlet 5. Liscia Ruja beach 6. Egg pasta dumpling stuffed with turbot and leek cream

360° relaxation for sea lovers

addition, there are 66 apartments of The Reserve Poltu Quatu and over 300 berths, easily accessible, in what is called Marina dell’Orso. Everything is organised to make the guest experience a comfortable and relaxing holiday. Forget your car, the village has everything you need starting from good eating places. The structure directly manages three restaurants: one overlooking the sea, serving Mediterranean cuisine; one by the pool with simple dishes and grilled meats and fish; and Tanit which since 1987 has enriched the offer of Poltu Quatu restaurants with its refined cuisine based on seafood and shellfish and now considered an excellence among the restaurants of the Costa Smeralda. To these is added the new Terrace du Port, Champagnerie Cave and Winery: a terrace overlooking the fjord where guests can enjoy a breathtaking view while tasting the specialties of local and international cuisine and wine.

 Grand Hotel Poltu Quatu – Arzachena (SS) – loc. Poltu Quatu

0789956200 – hotel@poltuquatu.com – poltu-quatu.com

GAMBERO ROSSO

You don’t have to own a yacht or a sailboat to enjoy the sea. The Poltu Quatu beach is one of the novelties of 2021: thanks to the shuttle service with rubber dinghy ride 3 minutes from the Poltu Quatu marina, guests can reach the brand new and exclusive beach, immersed in the wild and unspoiled nature of Northern Sardinia. Sunbeds, towels and beach umbrellas are included. There is also the possibility of renting rubber dinghies for an (unmissable) tour of the archipelago of La Maddalena. Those who do not like being at the helm can opt for organised excursions. And it is always the management that organises diving and free-diving courses in the surrounding seabed, but also tours for dolphin and whale sighting and many other marine fauna that abound in these parts.

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An ancient Tuscan estate where agriculture and hospitality are the center of it all

www.villasaletta.com

NEWS

MY EXPORT Alessia Maggialetti - Plantamura 1 What is the percentage of exports on the company total? The percentage of sales abroad is 90%. 65% of our products remain in Europe and the rest goes to the USA, Canada and Australia. In Italy we are present in a small percentage and only in the most prestigious venues.

2 What’s changed and how did exports do before and after the lockdowns? During lockdown there was a slight slowdown in sales in Italy. Foreign customers, with whom we have been working for over ten years and with whom we have established a relationship of trust and respect, have not had any slowdown, on the contrary they have allowed us to face this period well.

3 How do you think the wine trade should restart? What are the strategies and what are your expectations? First of all, trade fairs should restart: they are an important showcase for presenting our products. I also think that the wine system will restart thanks to tourism. In Italy the wine tourism sector is growing and, as far as we are concerned, we have high expectations: the Puglia landscapes are breathtaking!

4 How have attitudes and interest of foreign consumers towards Italian wine changed? Foreign consumers have always been interested in Italian wines. What’s changed towards them is the culture. Furthermore, customers prefer organic wines (our winery is certified organic since 1996) and wines coming from eco-sustainable producers.

5 Do you have a dedicated export manager – or more than one? How did you select him/her? No, we don’t have an export manager. We prefer to get to know customers personally.

6 Tell us a (positive/negative) anecdote related to your experience abroad. During a tasting on Lake Zurich, a very demanding Swiss customer asked to taste French wines, categorically excluding the Italian ones. Our importer did an experiment: he proposed a blind tasting of some French wines and our Riserva. The customer was thrilled with our wine and immediately placed an order. We were all amazed, but above all satisfied and proud of the potential of the Primitivo compared to the French giants.

 Plantamura | Gioia del Colle | Bari| www.viniplantamura.it

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IN SHORT

DESIGN by Sonia Massari

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DESIGN

PRÊT-À-MANGER FISH

CHEESE IS SMART AND HOMEMADE

Sardo’ is the first home delivery service for fresh, local and exclusively caught fish in the city of Ancona, in the Marche region. The idea stemmed from the need to cut down on the many stages in the supply chain: the service is designed for the purchase of fresh fish before it is even caught, directly from your home. Once arrived at the harbour, Sardo’ will deliver it straight to the requested place and time. The box can be booked and received on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday: its content may vary depending on the catch.

With Fromaggio and just a few clicks, making your favourite cheese directly at home is now possible. The idea came from a US startup: a small and smart tool that combines high-precision equipment with a press, cheese moulds and a curd mixer. You can customise the recipes according to your own taste and diet, including vegan, or choose to make a more traditional mozzarella or American cream cheese. .

fromaggio.com

sardo-fishdelivery.com

VOLCANIC TABLE

LITERARY SUPPLEMENTS

Founded by Kathrin Schmidiger Torres, the Pia-

The Tisane Filosofiche NarraTherapy – NarraTherapy philo-

mundo studio has always been working closely with

sophical herbal teas – are a food design product, that combines

South American artisans, to promote their territory

the holistic and therapeutic remedy of words with the wellbe-

and work. The brand launched a line of snack bowls

ing of organic healing herbal infusions made in Italy. The prod-

made entirely from volcanic rock. The Volcanic Rock

uct consists of a box with a package insert in it, containing both

Collection includes plates of various sizes and other

the texts and the herbal tea filter. The reading takes as long as

home accessories, all carved out from the stone

the infusion time: 5 minutes. The 2020 first six titles of ‘literary

found in the Mexican state of Puebla.

supplements’: love, courage, balance, confidence, optimism

piamundo.com

and relaxation. You can find them in bookshops, pharmacies, parapharmacies, herbal and gift shops.

narrateworld.com

THE FOOD REVOLUTION STARTS WITH WASTE

WHEN WASTE MAKES YOU BEAUTIFUL

Once considered the last step of the food supply chain, now waste

Around more than a third of Europe’s fruit and

can be turned into an opportunity, a new beginning for a food revo-

vegetable production is discarded, since aes-

lution. From local brewers to large-scale producers, from bakers to

thetically unsuitable for the market. Spanish

chefs, everyone is looking for alternatives to reduce waste. This pod-

designer Júlia Roca Vera created a line of cos-

cast series explores the circular view of food systems. Among the

metics using discarded fruit, thus giving it a

various episodes, there is a class on ‘Mindful Cooking’: In the Lab

second life; the fruits are collected by a local

with Jonathan Deutsch, Ep 13”. Founding director and chef of Drexel

social enterprise called Espigoladors, which in

Food Lab in New York, Deutsch teaches how to use creativity to

turn rescues misshapen fruit and vegetables.

combine culinary art with the science of repurposing.

‘Lleig’ is the collection name, from the Catalan

toogoodtowastepodcast.com

‘ugly’, and its range includes four beauty and body care products.

juliaroca.net

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GAMBERO ROSSO X ALBINEA CANALI

Albinea Canali, the soul of Emilia between tradition and modernity This cooperative winery, one of the most linked to the territory and rooted in the Emilia social fabric, is a reality that boasts a long history. The project originated in 1934, when Lorenzo Motti and Riziero Camellini initially brought together seven and later twelve Lambrusco winemakers to create a new production model in the area with a strong vocation that extends south of Reggio Emilia. From that nucleus, which two years later gave birth to Cantina Albinea Canali, an idea and a successful aggregative model developed which in the following decades led to the association of 170 grape-selling members. The winery, already born in the minds of the founders as an avant-garde

project, underwent a refurbishment where period elements were merged with modern solutions, thus integrating advanced technological systems. Thus Albinea Canali, a company that for years has been famous for the quality of its bulk wines, now offers a range of prestigious labels for the out-ofhomeworld. The winery has always been an interpreter of taste and distinctive character of Lambrusco thanks to the harvesting of the grapes in a small basin: one of the most valuable areas in terms of soils and in the provinces of Reggio Emilia and Modena. Here various types of Lambrusco, Grechetto Gentile, and also some international vines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, a grape that finds its ideal

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habitat in these hilly areas, have been cultivated for generations. «Constant innovation represents a fundamental asset for growth and consolidation for Albinea Canali, Mario Vandi, Head of Marketing of the company tells us - And indeed, the Canali winery fully represents the innovation path of the group to which it belongs. The company interprets the current trends in the market and aims to meet new needs and consumption opportunities in out-of-home channels around the world. We have made the best use of the resources and skills of this great company while respecting and enhancing the quality work of a winery that well represents the tradition of its native territory.»

GAMBERO ROSSO X ALBINEA CANALI

1. The entrance to the historic Albinea Canali winery in the province of Reggio Emilia 2. Lambrusco vineyards: the traditional grape of these parts that the winery interprets in different versions and facets 3. The tanks of Cantina di Canali: before it sold bulk wine, now it produces 9 different labels, an accurate expression of the territory 4. Ottocentonero protagonist of aperitif in many Italian cities, especially among young people

Ottocentonero and 1936, two symbolic products of the cellar Ottocentonero, Lambrusco dell’Emilia Igt, is a dry sparkling wine and is one of the flagship labels of Albinea Canali. The grapes from which it is born are Lambrusco Salamino, Grasparossa and Ancellotta. The wine has a beautiful colour: intense, brilliant ruby red with violet reflections. The nose is intense and expresses pleasant notes of berries. In the mouth, it is sparkling and full-bodied, round and harmonious. Recommended serving temperature: 12-14° C. Another important product of the winery is 1936, an organic Lambrusco, also sparkling. The grapes are a blend of Emilian Lambruscos. Its character always betrays fresh drinkability, more than the Ottocentonero. The olfactory and palatal characteristics are linked to the fragrances of berries, with a clean, harmonious, medium-long finish. Serving temperature: 12-14° C. The grapes, from which both wines come, live on deep soils with medium texture and half way between medium plains and the initial hills of the provinces of Reggio Emilia and Modena. These are two Lambruscos that are excellent as an aperitif, but also for the whole meal in pairing with appetizers of cured meats and savoury pies, pasta dishes such as lasagna and grilled red meats.

Aperitivo Ottocentonero: The New Black Ottocentonero is the iconic product of the Albinea Canali winery. The company has decided to name it the star of trendy aperitifs across Italian cities. The target of the project are millennials and Gen X, particularly attentive to fashion and costume trends, socialisation and communication through social media. Ottocentonero addresses them, with a new, more elegant design and with its fresh and fun mood. «We started from a strong and precise idea: Lambrusco has all the characteristics to be a young aperitif wine, but it suffers from an image linked to more homely and territorial habits - explains Francesca Benini, Sales & Marketing Director of Cantine Riunite & Civ - We have therefore decided to present Lambrusco, a product for which we boast leadership in the countries of the American continent, especially among young people, in a different light and in new ways. We therefore launched Aperitivo Ottocentonero, a pre-evening format with the claim: OTTOCENTONERO IS THE NEW BLACK.»

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Cantina Albinea Canali – Canali (RE) – via Tassoni, 213 – 0522569505 – albineacanali.com

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EVENTS

Let’s make up for lost time, green light for in-person Gambero Rosso events Berlin, St. Petersburg and Moscow: here are the first stages of the world tour by Giuseppe Carrus

t is not a restart, it is not a new beginning. It is something more. It’s clear in our minds what happened in March 2020. Gambero Rosso concluded a beautiful tour in the United States, with the last stages in California. Together with the International Team there were dozens of producers, happy with how the various events had gone, but worried about the news coming from the East of the world and especially from Italy. The rest, unfortunately, is known. Now that we are preparing to draw up a new calendar, starting from Europe, passing through Russia and returning to the United States, there is great excitement and euphoria, charged by the incredible desire, of the entire wine sector, to start over. We have never stopped talking 

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JUNE JUNE JUNE JUNE JUNE www.gamberorossointernational.com trebicchieri VINEXPO trebicchieri Special trebicchieri VINEXPO trebicchieri Special VINEXPO VINEXPO Special Special trebicchieri VINEXPO Special - France PARIS France PARIS - France - France 14-16 -PARIS 14-16 14-16 14-16-PARIS France 14-16 PARIS

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WORLDTOUR

to the world, technology has helped a lot. So, from a screen, we all connected with New York or Tokyo, with Northern Europe or simply with the rest of Italy. Wine, however, needs more. Italian wine needs more. When our wineries go abroad they not only bring good products, they transmit culture and conviviality, customs and ways of doing things. They communicate the character of the wines as well as of the people who make them; they bring joy, smiles and upbeat attitude. All this requires in-person interaction, carried out in total safety, but where one can look each other in the eye. It’s true that behind every commercial agreement there is a personal understanding. “We hope to be able to start travelling again soon: digital contacts are fine, but wine also needs personal relationships, to see and be seen, to visit customers, to uncork the bottles in person,” says Giovanni Folonari, President of the estate by the same name, which exports 45% of production, and of which 30% goes to the USA. This is echoed by Davide Marino, Commercial Manager of Tenuta Mara in Romagna and Masone Mannu in Sardinia, who draw a balance that is all in all positive. They bring attention to the great restart that will take place: “The United States have not disappointed, New York and California firstly, but we also started with a new importer in Florida thanks to an event organised by Gambero Rosso. There is an air of recovery in China and Australia and we focus a lot on Northern Europe, with Denmark in the lead. In the near future there will be a good general recovery and we must be ready to face it.” So here we are, ready for the challenge. Charged more than ever and ready to face in-person meetings and

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tastings. The tour starts from the nerve centre of Europe, Berlin, once again at Hotel De Rome, an elegant hotel in the German capital already known to various producers who in the past attended Gambero Rosso tours. It is well known that Russia is a very important market for Italian wine, it is no coincidence that even the terrible 2020 marks only a slight decrease in exported wine, eventually reaching a value of 126 million euros of wine imported from Italy by Russia. Calendar dates are July 6 in Moscow and July 8 in St. Petersburg. In conclusion, for now, the US tour is scheduled for the end of the summer. Starting in Los Angeles on August 30th and ending on September 9th in Boston, passing through San Francisco (September 1st), New York (September 3rd) and Chicago (September 7th). The resumption of the tour is entirely dedicated to the Tre Bicchieri winners, i.e. the best wines in Italy according to the Gambero Rosso Guide. The events, redesigned to comply with all anti-Covid safety regulations, will be a symbol of true rebirth of Italian wine, of Italy’s economy, of our culture to communicate to the world. As always, the main focus will be on the export business and accredited guests are almost exclusively part of the wine trade. However, there will be relationships, deals and agreements signed with smiles as well as contracts. Italian wine is begging for it, it’s something that is good for producers, restaurateurs and wine merchants as well as for consumers: the conviviality implemented through wine will be the key to the true relaunch. 

MARCH-APRIL 2021

GAMBERO ROSSO X GOTTO D’ORO

A new local & pop soul Gotto d’Oro rethinks everyday wines

For someone who was born in Rome, or lived there, it’s impossible not to have stumbled upon a Gotto d’Oro bottle. But we could say the same thing for many Italians. Gotto d’Oro is one of the great wine cooperatives of Lazio. Located in the Castelli Romani area it is an institution if we talk about popular wine, in the noblest sense of the term. Rome, undoubtedly, has acted as a sponge and the wines of the historic social cellar have filled Roman tables for years. But also many in the rest of Italy and abroad. For some years now, as for many Italian cooperatives, Gotto d’Oro has undertaken a general renewal that seeks to combine three objectives: increasing quality, thanks to which the winery can undertake the challenges of a now global wine world; a new image that conquers even the youngest public; and, last but not least, sustainability, which is not only social (well-managed cooperatives have contributed a lot to guaranteeing a decent income to members), but also economic and environmental. «As absurd as it was, 2020 allowed us to field several projects - Aurore De Koning, export manager of the winery tells us - We should have organised an event to celebrate the 75th anniversary of the cooperative which for obvious reasons could not take place. So we aimed to transform this moment into an opportuni-

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ty, working on a new line of wines that go in the direction that Gotto d’Oro has long decided to take. We called it “Settantacinque75” precisely in honour of the winery’s

Settantacinque75, 12 grocery store wines In 1945, in the town of Marino near Rome, 41 winemakers gave birth to Gotto d’Oro. «Over the years, both quality and remuneration of the shareholders constantly improved - explains President Luigi Caporicci - Today there are more than 200 grape members and the company in the name of quality and sustainability is changing its skin, but not its soul.» Proof of this is the newly created Settantacinque75 line, consisting of 12 labels (8 DOCs and 4 IGTs) that pay homage to the territory and the wine of the Castelli Romani with White, Red, Rosé and Sparkling versions. Space also for the DOC Marino Superiore and Frascati; and the DOC Roma, proposed in red and white, a recent DOC on which the company is now focusing a lot. The range is completed by four IGT wines dedicated to three grape varieties, which have always been cultivated in Lazio: Vermentino, Cesanese and Merlot, proposed in still and sparkling versions.

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GAMBERO ROSSO X GOTTO D’ORO

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE N. 1308/2013 CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013

Some of the 12 labels in the Settantacinque75 Line: they are all distributed on the shelves of the best grocery stores 1. The Castelli Romani Bianco DOC 2. The Castelli Romani Rosso DOC 3. A bottle of Doc Marino Superiore 4. A bottle of Cesanese IGT

In the name of sustainability In addition to using lighter bottles, certified paper and recyclable caps, Gotto d’Oro is the protagonist of an ethical project linked to the recycling of all corks: the company is a collection point in the Castelli Romani area for anyone wishing to discard their used corks. These are collected by a non-profit organization to which Amorim Italia will give 700 euros for each ton of cork stoppers collected. «In addition to this, we have already made important choices for energy and water consumption, making a commitment in regards to raw materials and on waste treatment. Our energy comes from national distribution and from a proprietary solar panel system. We have optimised our energy consumption by replacing all halogen lamps with LEDs, and we pursue the goal of increasing the Kw produced with a new solar panel system - says Ilaria Palumbo, Quality Director of the Cooperative - The water we use in the production process comes 90% from our wells and undergoes osmosis treatment. It is then purified so that it can be reused for irrigation.» 4 5

seventy fifth birthday. We have assigned a colour to each label, the format is 75 cl and we focused solely on the great Docs of the territory and on the grapes that our members have always cultivated, and which fall within the Igt. The project also looks to sustainability - continues De Koning - The bottles are lighter, the paper of the labels and the cartons are FSC certified and we have entered into an agreement with Amorim to have 100% recyclable corks.» The bottles of the new line are already arriving in the best Italian supermarkets in recent weeks: Settantacinque75 wines are in fact designed for large retailers, they will keep the popular soul but will have a lot to say in terms of character and authenticity. The focus is also abroad, of course, starting with the sale of Frascati: over the years this great white from Lazio has lost its appeal and Gotto d’Oro also has the goal to restore lustre to the great wines of the Castelli Romani.

 Gotto d’Oro – Marino (RM) – via del Divino Amore, 347 – 0693022226 – www.gottodoro.it

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All you need to know about Doc Roma A Doc wine designed to bring the name of the Eternal City to the world a solid bond. The Roma Spumante type will also be launched, including the mention of Rosato, always focusing on the same grapes of Roma Rosso. “We have shown productive commitment in these years, raising the average quality level, now the small companies must grow, we will redesign the logo and we are working a lot on oenological training. The best is yet to come.”

47 hectares and 1.3 million bottles produced. Let’s start from the numbers of 2020 in order to get in touch with one of the most curious DOCs of the Italian wine scene. Born in 2011, the DOC Roma was created to add value to the viticulture of the Lazio region, associated with a strong brand concept like Rome. The area of the denomination is particularly large and extends across the province of Rome. It includes the coastal territories, the Sabina subregion, the Colli Albani, the Prenestini hills and a good part of the Roman countryside. The ampelographic base is therefore wide, for the Roma Bianco we find mainly Malvasia del Lazio (not less than 50%) followed by Bellone, Bombino and Trebbiano. While for Roma Rosso the starring role is played by Montepulciano (not less than 50%) followed by Cesanese, Cabernet and Syrah. “In 2020, the area planted in vines and the production grew significantly. Today, the entire supply chain has 87 players between bottlers, winemakers and vi-

gnerons. We started with 6 vintners and 60 hectares, the growth has been important but we need to take it to the next level. Above all, the small private wineries must grow. Rome is an important giant: we have to behave like Rome, to live up to its name,” commented Tullio Galassini, President of the Roma DOC Consortium. In the next few years, it’s estimated that the production will double, while on the communication side, the aim is a strong relaunch, both in Italy and abroad. In fact, the DOC is much better known around the world than it is in Rome: in 2018, according to the latest available data, export of the denomination counted for 83%, Italy only marked 17%. The first international market is Vietnam. “Today we see a big push from Northern Europe and a strong acceleration in the United States,” Tullio continues. Among upcoming projects, there are also plans for a physical wine shop in Rome. The great challenge of the denomination is precisely re-appropriating the city and its province, rebuilding

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TASTING We asked the Consortium to send us a sampling from all the producers who claim the DOC label, here are the samples that convinced us the most. We found some residual sugar at the limit in some samples, but also more delicate and calibrated extractions than a few years ago, especially in the reds. ROMA BIANCO ROMA MALVASIA PUNTINATA 2019 PRINCIPE PALLAVICINI The most convincing among the whites. It offers clean, inviting aromas, from mint to basil, with fragrant, fresh white fruit. The palate is linear, pleasant, with good progression, relaxation, and length.

ROMA MALVASIA PUNTINATA 2019 CASTELLO DI TORRE IN PIETRA Based in Fiumicino. The aromas are of ginger and lemon, along with an undercurrent of yellow flowers. On the palate it is smooth, with good savoury support and a delicate finish on Mediterranean herb tones.

ROMA MALVASIA PUNTINATA 2019 FEDERICI The aromas are reminiscent of sage, white pepper and freshly mowed grass. The mouthfeel is pleasant, soft, and continuous in its vegetal profile. The finish reminds of freshly candied citrus.

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ROMA CLASSICO 2019 AD DECIMUM EMANUELE RANCHELLA The mention Roma Classico leads us back to the grapes produced within the municipality of Rome. The Ranchella family has been producing wine for over 150 years, and the winery is based in Grottaferrata. Aromas of elderflower and chamomile anticipate a slightly aromatic palate with a good sense of balance.

balsamic tones.s and length with balsamic tones.

On the palate it shows a well-modulated

ROMA ROSSO RISERVA 2017 VILLA CAVALLETTI

ROMA ROSSO 753 2018 TENUTA TRE CANCELLI

progression.

Here we are in the area of Cerveteri. The Roma Rosso 753 (BCE, the year of Rome’s founding) is pleasantly rustic and intense in dark currant and licorice tones. The taste is ample but also dynamic, with a final backbone.

ROMA ROSSO

Villa Cavalletti is one of the few Ville Tuscolane still intact to this day. The aromas are very intense, from blueberry to ripe cherry, with a coffee background. The taste is rich, ample, with evident toasted tones and a good length of flavour. The finish is lively thanks to a peppery vein.

ROMA ROSSO EDIZIONE LIMITATA 2017 POGGIO LE VOLPI

ROMA ROSSO 2018 CANTINAMENA

This red is produced in the Divino Amore area from a selection of Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes aged for 6 months in barrique. It has a distinctive floral profile. The aromas are intense, from violet to rose, while in the mouth it shows jammy fruit, with a supple and progressive finish.

For us this is the best Roma Rosso, a blend of Montepulciano, Syrah and Cesanese. The nose offers a sweet sensation of ripe cherry, chocolate and rosemary. The mouth boasts good fruity pulp and a progressive and compact tannic texture. The finish has freshness and length with

We reach Lanuvio to meet the Mingotti family winery that transforms its grapes organically. The colour here is lighter, brighter and more brilliant than the average for the appellation. It offers fragrant and fresh raspberry tones together with a minty profile.

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ROMA ROSSO CLASSICO MATER DIVINI AMORIS 2018 CAPIZUCCHI

AN EXTRAORDINARY VERTICAL TO BID FAREWELL TO PIO BOFFA, OWNER OF PIO CESARE STORY OF A CHARACTER AND A WINE THAT MADE HISTORY On April 17 Pio Boffa, a much loved character in Italy and in the world, a true ambassador of the Langhe, left us at the age of only 66. He was able to guide the course of one of the most glorious companies of Italian winemaking. A few weeks before his death, we were with him and his entire family at the winery to celebrate the 140th anniversary of the historic winery in Alba, awarded with the Red Wine of the Year in the Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia 2021 guide. Today this interview is a precious legacy to disclose and take with you.

words by Marco Sabellico and Gianni Fabrizio images by Andrea Ruggeri

STORIES

n all-round tasting to celebrate the 140 years of Pio Cesare, created by the namesake founder in 1881 with the purchase of a large building in the historic centre of Alba, amid barrels and ancient Roman walls. Cesare soon began to bottle with his own name and at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries he was already travelling abroad promoting his wines. His was one of the first passports issued in the province of Cuneo. He started collecting prizes in international competitions. A market expansion activity that grew steadily until the founder's death in 1919, when his son Giuseppe Pio took over the business, and thus successfully relaunched in the difficult period between the two world wars. LANGHE AT THE TURN OF THE CENTURY In 1922 his daughter Rosy was born,

who in 1940 married Giuseppe Boffa, an Alba native coming from a poor family who graduated from the Polytechnic as an established engineer. The company's appeal was such however to convince him, in 1944, to abandon his Milanese career and take the reins of the winery, which in the meantime had reached important dimensions in the still static wine world of the Langhe. Pio Boffa, son of Rosy and Giuseppe, born in 1954, began to take an interest in wine at a very young age, already in 1972 spending three months at the home of a Californian friend of his father, Robert Mondavi, to learn the first secrets of the art of great wine made in a state-of-the-art winery. «It was a fundamental experience, which allowed me to see the world with different eyes: I understood the complexity of production and marketing. Even then in the USA they operated with enormous capital, both financial and human: there were large budgets for pro-

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motion and for the reception of tourists visiting the winery… Ours was instead a small world of family-level companies, where only tradition counted: for me it was like comparing a space rocket with a scooter…» THE ITALIAN MARKET IN THE SEVENTIES Already in the following year Pio became fully operative in the company, holding the position of accountant thanks to his economics studies. Pio Boffa didn't only cover this task - having breathed the air of the winemaking and production culture that belonged to his grandfather and father since he was a child - he soon skillfully guided all the different business sectors, from the cultivation of the vineyards to winemaking. «It should be remembered that in the 1970s Barolo was not sold in Italy: it was considered a wine for big celebrations, opportunities that never came, a wine for experts and connois-

seurs. Keeping in mind that at that time export was carried out with air mail snail mail, that it took months to close a contract and that to call America you had to book the call three days in advance. So I realized that it was important to travel firsthand to make our wine known abroad, and I must really say that prestigious Italian restaurants around the world gave us a big hand.» OWNED VINEYARDS: CONTROL OF THE SUPPLY CHAIN In 1974 Pio began an important turning point in the company's production philosophy: he was no longer limited to buying grapes to be made into wine in the cellar, but Pio Cesare began to acquire his own vineyards. It started with the purchase of a large vineyard area in the Bricco di Treiso, where the homonymous Barbaresco is still born. «We understood that it was important to have our own land because we were afraid that the historical suppliers would start making wine on their own... A trend that, as we have seen, grew enormously in the following years. We began to talk about crus and vineyards… In Serralunga, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto it was increasingly difficult to buy high quality grapes.» The central element in the new and intense activity of setting up a vast array of owned vineyards is certainly to tend to acquire, as much as possible, plots already well known for their viticultural qualities, thus turning above all to suppliers from which historically they were already buying the grapes. THE “CLASSICS” BAROLO AND BARBARESCO Barolo and Barbaresco, as the result of the assembly of different vineyards, continue to underpin the company's production philosophy. The predominant part of the production that has made Pio Cesare important all over the world is in fact the labels that we improper- 

Tasting notes. History and future in 27 labels by Lorenzo Ruggeri Two Barbaresco labels, the "Classico" and "il Bricco" and 4 Barolo labels, from "Classico" to Riserva, illustrate the production philosophy of the Langhe winery and how tradition can build the future of a wine that stays faithful to the vision of those who founded it and led the company for 140 years without ever denying evolution and modernity.

Barberesco Il Bricco 2017 The journey starts from the last vintage on the market, lacking in rainfall and on average quite hot. The aromas are ripe and intense, with spices in the foreground, blond tobacco and black pepper, while the red fruit rises in the background. The mouth is pulpy, with dense tannins and a delicious balsamic trace.

Barbaresco Il Bricco 2013 The high concentration of colour in the glass anticipates a dark and multifaceted profile, lively in the memories of licorice, currant and sunny grass. The mouth has energy and youth, with a remarkable extraction, for a rich and dense palate that extends well into a harmonious finish. Fades into shades of resin and Mediterranean herbs.

Barbaresco Il Bricco 2012 «Heat lashes, if well managed, can give great results,» used to say Pio Boffa. The 2012 vintage In fact, shows itself in full shape, elegant in the balsamic tones of juniper, the hints of juicy ripe cherries. On the palate it opens with decision and impetus, to then find a wide and valuable gustatory trajectory, between peppery and balsamic tones. The feeling is of a very solid balance.

Barbaresco Il Bricco 2009 A muscular and intensely spiced version. In the foreground comes cinnamon, notes of strawberry and raspberry jam, a characteristic stamp of the vintage. The mouth is powerful, dense, with a deep tannic imprint supported by sweet pulp, for a very warm and enveloping sip.

Barbaresco 2015 Classic Barbaresco presents itself in a completely different guise: the colour is particularly soft, light and bright. The aromas are whispered, gentle, with rose in the foreground and fragrant red fruits. The mouth is light and expressive, almost impalpable, but with a long and prolonged finish. Mint and pepper revive a finish rich in purity and nuances.

Barbaresco 2011 A garnet ruby of good evolution and brilliance anticipates clearly evident aromas of cinchona and tobacco. The mouth is powerful, warm, due to an already resolved tannic texture, for a harmonious and soft taste that develops more horizontally than vertically. Spicy finish, with a gentle soul. 

STORIES

In the opening Pio Boffa and Federica Rosy On the right, Federica Rosy Boffa and her cousin Cesare Benvenuto

FUTURE. THE FIFTH GENERATION WITH FEDERICA AND CESARE «Around here at osterie you'd start with a glass of vermouth paired with butter, an anchovy and lemon peel.» This is how Pio Boffa welcomed us, as soon as we arrived at the Il Bricco farmhouse in Treiso. The house was purchased in 1974, around the vineyards of the Barbaresco cru by the same name and those of Chardonnay that later gave Piodilei. After the welcome and a topping up of vermouth, we met the new faces of the company: Federica Rosy Boffa, 24, and her cousin Cesare Benvenuto. «The challenge, today, for a winery - says Federica - means keeping up with change. The climate of the areas where Nebbiolo is planted has changed a lot, sometimes we record peaks over 33 degrees Celsius. In winter it snows less and less. We need to study and try to continue producing a wine with the same style despite the changes. For us the main challenge, after 140 plus years, is to produce Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto with the same family style since 1881. We need to open up to new technologies to preserve the original style.» We enjoy an intermezzo with a Barbera d'Alba Superiore Fides 2016, served in a magnum bottle: multifaceted, complex on the nose, tones of nutmeg and red fruit, with a dynamic mouth and continuous changes of pace, dictated by fresh acidity and a persuasive body. «There is great excitement in the area among producers, the generational change is bringing above all a new sensitivity in the approach to nature. There is certainly the desire to continue to raise the name of the area and the wines that must strengthen the foreign markets we've

GAMBERO ROSSO

already conquered and be increasingly present in new markets. This is why there's a need to innovate and the new generations know how to do it, without ever neglecting the tradition that has made the territory successful.» Between sipping a 2006 Barolo and a 2012 we ask Federica which are the right places to tune into the rhythm of the Langa. «First of all there is the Bricco di Treiso: from the terrace outlook of the house you have a spectacular view of most of the area. Then there is the Ornato. I would not go inside the vineyard, but in a point where, sitting on a bench, you have a view of a part of Serralunga where you can breathe in the history: next to it is the Falletto di Giacosa, the Sperss di Gaja, you can see Serralunga castle and from there, as well as part of the new acquisition, the Mosconi in Monforte. Last stop in La Morra, in the square, where you have a dream view, you can also imagine the sea beyond the hills.» While we sip, Federica and Cesare talk to us about future projects: «We don't have predefined roles in the company, we share everything, we evaluate all situations, we travel side by side,» explains Cesare. And Federica segues: «One of our new projects is the production of a rosé, we called it Rosy, dedicated to my grandmother who passed away last November. It's a Nebbiolo with a hint of Syrah, grapes that always come from Bricco di Treiso, the area where we have experimented the most. For now there are 1,500 bottles, it's a rosé with body and structure. This is also a way to try our hand at something different as we have always done. Always, however, remaining anchored to our traditions.»

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PIO CESARE, 140 YEARS OF LANGA

ly call "Barolo Classico'' and "Barbaresco Classico" to distinguish them from the more recent crus. In fact, Barolo has long been produced from grapes from vineyards located in four municipalities: Serralunga d'Alba (Ornato, Briccolina, Serra and Lirano), La Morra (Roncaglie), Novello (Ravera) and Grinzane Cavour (Cascina Gustava in the Garetti cru). Obviously, since 2015 there has also been the Monforte d'Alba grape (Mosconi). Barbaresco is in turn a blend of Treiso (Bricco, Bongiovanni and San Stefanetto) and San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, a hamlet of Alba (Rocche Massalupo). In this regard, Pio's clear affirmation is enlightening: «We must not believe that the birth of Barolo Ornato, and then of Mosconi, together with Barbaresco Il Bricco, meant the abandonment of classicism in favour of labels made with grapes from individual crus: I continue to believe in the absolute value of our Barolo and Barbaresco without specification of vineyard, precisely because in 140 years of company history we have seen that the traditional habit of blending Nebbiolo grapes from different areas has always given excellent results.» NEW LABELS: NOT ONLY RED AND NOT ONLY NEBBIOLO And a few years after the purchase of the vineyards in the Barbaresco area, in 1979 Pio Cesare arrived in the Barolo area, thanks to the acquisition of the Ornato vineyard, followed by expansions that gradually allowed the winery to count on the current 75 hectares overall, mainly included in the DOCG areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. This was a result of absolute importance in the Langa milieu based on properties of generally much smaller size. The fame conquered by the winery in its first ninety years therefore experienced a period of further growth and increasingly important awards even overseas. Plus with a 

Barbaresco 2010



A hymn to aromatic finesse. The very bright and light colour is a prelude to an exquisitely floral aromatic portrait of small red fruits. The mouth is whispered in the development, owning great freshness, the acid vein is vibrant, the savoury verve lends panache and depth. It closes long, severe and austere. It still has a long way to go.

Barolo 2017 Classic Barolo is the company's flagship, a wine that has always been present in the company's centuries-old history. The 2017 vintage is presented with tones of sunny grass, cinchona and goudron. The mouth, as it should be, is still behind, with a powerful tannic take, while fruit and pulp play with a sweet and inviting spiciness. On the finish it unleashes a vivid gustatory freshness, it just needs time to rest.

Barolo 2016 Ready, set, go: fresh and well-articulated aromas, ranging from mint to orange peel and hay. The taste texture is lean and solid in development, complex and refined, with a delicately smoky finish, with hazelnut and peat hints, for a remarkable and well-timed extension.

Barolo 2013 Wild strawberries, cloves and dried roses come together in a single enchanting aroma. The taste combines a pleasantness and a change of pace that's out of the ordinary, with a pulp and above all a fragrance of red fruits that lend a feeling of fullness and lightness of pure pleasure. Tannin is silky, the finish perfectly relaxed, fresh and very long.

Barolo 2011 A completely different rhythm, typical of the vintage. The fruit is ripe, hints of raspberry jam and licorice in the background. The mouth has a powerful and generous entrance, but reveals a soft character, with a sweetness of fruit that goes well with a spicy rhythm, for a continuous and enveloping finish.

Barolo 2010 We delve into the full character of the great Nebbiolos that have stood the test of time, with classic aromas of tobacco and dried flowers, but also licorice and nutmeg. The mouth is vital, articulated, with a very long finish thanks to round and velvety tannins. With a remarkable share of sapidity lending depth to the sip.

Barolo 2008 A vintage that jumps out in the tastings. In particular, an intense vegetal timbre and hints of cinchona thanks to the cool vintage. The mouth plays on acidic freshness, lacking in balance and connection, for a sharp development.

Barolo 2006 Fifteen beautifully worn years. Especially surprising for its compact nature and overall integrity. The perfumes are an invitation of orange 

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STORIES

PIODILEI: THE CHARDONNAY DEDICATED TO THE WOMEN IN THE FAMILY It was 1982 and at Bricco Treiso Pio Cesare began to plant a new vineyard, entirely with Chardonnay grapes. The idea of Pio Boffa and his collaborators was to try and experiment, in wanting to make a white fermented wine aged in oak. The new wine, which was due to be born in 1985, aroused the curiosity of the women of the family, Pio's mother and grandmother. «When I'd leave for long travels abroad, to go and sell wine, the women of my family, intrigued by this new wine that was about to be born, with the complicity of our cellar man, went into the barrel room to taste the white that rested in barriques. A complicity that stopped when I returned to Piedmont - said Pio Boffa - because my collaborator in the cellar, with us for 45 years, revealed to me all the curiosity that my mother and my grandmother had for the new wine that would be born there soon.» This is why in 1985, for the first vintage of Piodilei, there was no doubt about the name: it was a dedication to the women of the family. Since then the wine has not changed, it is always a pure Chardonnay that ferments and ages in barrique for 10 months. Obviously, the age of the vines, which are now more than 40 years old, has changed, and so has the climate, as we know. Aside from this, the prestigious white of the Pio Cesare house is still a great wine, with an important structure, produced in small quantities. The last vintage tasted, 2016, offers floral, spicy and iodized touches. In the mouth it is enveloping, but there is no lack of flavour and acidity supporting the sip. – Guseppe Carrus

growing interest also in experimenting with the use of other grapes: this is how new labels were born, at the centre of which is undoubtedly the Chardonnay Piodilei: «When we wanted to make a white we decided to make a wine with the characteristics of great reds: that was therefore complex and longlived, with body and structure but also with the typical Piedmontese elegance and finesse of Nebbiolo.» Without forgetting that the Piedmontese company has always shown a strong inclination also towards Barbera d'Alba, as well demonstrated by the long-lived Fides, initially made from vineyard Colombaro, among the most important cru in Serralunga d'Alba. THE FRIENDSHIP WITH GIACOMO TACHIS As for the more strictly oenological and technical aspects, it was from the end of the 1970s that Pio began to dialogue

with the undisputed father of the Italian qualitative revolution. «Giacomo Tachis gave us valuable advice, but out of friendship. He did not do any consultancy at the time, and I would never have asked him even out of respect towards the Antinori winery. However, I often went to visit him in San Casciano: It stimulated me to compare and chat with him, to collect suggestions and inspiration... Although I must admit that I was quite surprised that the great master often loved to dine with Nebbiolino del Roero, at the time equipped with a certain effervescence.» And it was precisely a pupil of Tachis, Paolo Fenocchio, who, after having gained experience in Tuscany at Marchesi Antinori, permanently took over the reins of the cellar starting from 1981, a position that he did not give up until retirement and which still leads him today to often go down to the cellar. «Paolo never made wine as he wanted, but he put with great humility his professional approach at the

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service of the winery, without ever upsetting tradition... In fact, at Pio Cesare we've always followed our style, without exasperation but careful in renewing ourselves, we have not followed slavishly the fashions of the markets, even when it seemed that they were always asking for new barriques and Barolo with short macerations.» UP AGAINST BORDEAUX AND THE NEW MILLENNIUM Pio Boffa was constantly curious and inclined to making comparisons. So, mindful of his interaction with Mondavi and Tachis, he decided to open up to dialogue with another famous oenological master: hence the relationship, started in 2006, with Denis Dubourdieu, director of the Institute of Science of vine and wine from the University of Bordeaux and consultant for important Châteaux in the area. The first meeting between Pio and Dubourdieu was rather strange: the day after making an ap- 

PIO CESARE, 140 YEARS OF LANGA

2020 – Barolo Ornato 2016 wins the Red Wine of the Year Award in the Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia 2021 Guide

2000

2019 – Federica Boffa, Pio's daughter, joins the company 2017 – Barbera d'Alba Fides is enriched with the Superior specification "Vigna Mosconi," as it is made starting from this harvest exclusively with old vines of the namesake cru 2015 – Barolo Mosconi is born 2014 – At the age of 60, Pio buys 10 hectares in the Mosconi di Monforte d'Alba cru 2000 – Cesare Benvenuto, Pio's nephew, begins to collaborate with his uncle in the company 1990 – Augusto Boffa, Pio's cousin, enters the company 1990 – first vintage of the Barbaresco Il Bricco 1985 –Chardonnay Piodilei comes from Bricco di Treiso 1985 – the first company cru is born, Barolo Ornato 1979 – purchase of the Ornato farmhouse in the cru by the same name in Serralunga d'Alba 1974 – the acquisition of vineyards begins, in a path that will lead to the current 78 hectares of owned vineyards 1973 – Pio Boffa, son of Rosy and Giuseppe, joins the company 1944 – Giuseppe Boffa takes over the management

1880

1910

1940 – his daughter Rosy marries Giuseppe Boffa

 peel, graphite and licorice. The mouth is severe in development, but of great gustatory depth, with a truly overwhelming background energy. Alternates power, flicker and lots of flavour.

Barolo 2004 In the glass there is all the sense of measure and balance that great wines acquire over time. The 2004 is a red that's to say the least gentle and measured in the expressive trait of juniper and dried rose. It has a lot of finesse and a delicately dashed gustatory complexity, it is light in density but very long in flavour. Soft, creamy, harmonious. Textbook.

Barolo 1982 A vintage that made history and that marks a first entry into seasons that are a little warmer and more generous. The bottle evolves as unpredictably as it is happy. Warm, ripe and grumpy with tones of rhubarb and truffle. After a few minutes in the glass it recomposes itself and absurdly, warming up in temperature in the glass, it finds aromatic freshness and incredible agility, with fragrant and generous fruit, and a finish that is still thrilling, with lots of stories to tell.

Barolo Mosconi 2017 Intense play of spices and medicinal herbs, with black and ripe cherries clearly evident in terms of aromas. The mouth is austere, with very intense hints of soil and black tea and again herbs; the tannic texture is dense and secure, for a perfect taste-olfactory harmony. Pounding and licorice finish.

Barolo Mosconi 2016 Contains a perfect cross between fresh Mediterranean sensations, of rosemary and fennel, together with a sweet, ripe and juicy fruit. Upon tasting, a fascinating pine resin imprint is revealed, the structure is severe as in the best Barolo tradition, with dense tannins that are still astringent but never dry, for a very long and lively finish.

Barolo Mosconi 2015 The first vintage for this Barolo cru produced in very small quantities. Notes of cinchona and tobacco emerge, together with a typical slightly balsamic component lending complexity. The mouth is concentrated and pulpy, in this phase still slightly held back by an oak that requires time and patience. The finish is warm and with a strong spicy imprint.

1919 – Giuseppe Pio takes over from his father and expands markets and company structure

1881 –Pio Cesare founds his own cellar

Barolo Ornato 2016 Magnificent personality in the lively and expressive 2016, rich in small red fruits and a delicious note of licorice, with a mouth of exceptional length and harmony, and with a suffused austerity aura that increases its charm and importance. It lends a sensation of rare completeness, the finish reveals enormous potential in the bottle. According to the Vini d'Italia 2021 guide, it is the Red Wine of the Year. 

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STORIES

WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND SLEEP IN THE SURROUNDINGS

Le Scuderie del Castello di Govone Trattoria Pautassi Dulcis Vitis

Il Molino

L’Inedito Vigin Mudest Andrea Larossa Osteria dell’Arco

All’Enoteca

Piazza Duomo I Castelli

Govone

Canale Io e Luna

La Luna nel Pozzo

La Madernassa

Langhe Country House

Il Cortile di San Michele

Guarene

Barbaresco

Bovio Osteria Veglio

Alba

Relais Le Rocche

Neive

Antinè

Treiso

Marc Lanteri al Castello

Campamac taSté Casa Nicolini

Grinzane Cavour La Morra

Barolo

La Ciau del Tornavento Villa Incanto

Serralunga d’Alba

Barolo Friends Barolo

Osteria Tre Case

Roddino

Vinoteca Centro Storico

Osteria da Gemma Uri Sapori Condivisi

Cuneo

Where to eat and drinks 5 km

Where to sleep

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VERMOUTH AND BAROLO CHINATO, THE NEW GENERATION REDISCOVERS THE GREAT CLASSICS On their site they are found in the Revivals section and, in fact, these two products are the result of memories. Memories that the fifth generation of the family wanted to bring to light, after an interruption in production that occurred in the 1950s. Only in 2016, at the behest of the cousins Federica Boffa and Cesare Benvenuto, the production of Vermouth and Barolo Chinato ressumed, according to the jealously guarded original recipes. The desire is to bottle two high quality products, produced in few bottles that pass on the history of the winery and of the Piedmontese tradition. Vermouth is made from 26 aromatic plants, including absinthe, marjoram, gentian and orange peel. To this extract Chardonnay, Moscato and caramel are also added, which give the beverage its amber colour. Instead, small pieces of bark from Cinchona Calisaya and Cinchona Succirubra are the protagonists of Barolo Chinato. First infused in alcohol and a few quantities of Classic Barolo, then added with other spices, and finally added to the extract obtained from Barolo. Ready after a few months between aging in steel and in the bottle, it can be enjoyed at the end of a meal.

PIO CESARE, 140 YEARS OF LANGA

pointment by telephone with Denis, Pio went to Bordeaux and had to wait for two and a half hours before being received. The first contact was rather cold, with the master telling Pio that he did not understand why he chose to turn to him, given his unfamiliarity with Langa or Nebbiolo in depth. In reality, Pio did not intend to ask him for a classic technical advice but rather to open an allout comparison, pure and sincere, on Nebbiolo, believing that a contribution without the weight of preconceived concepts could come from a great wine man who didn't know this grape well. «Honestly, from these meetings I didn't received great technical indications, neither cultural nor oenological, but I well perceived that a great wine must best represent its territory, without forcing the massive use of new oak and without exaggerated concentrations, in the search for a purity and a classicism that the Nebbiolo grape is certainly able to express without inferiority complexes with the most established types at an international level. And I must say that I was very happy for this collaboration, let's say so "high" and without any operational suggestion: I have wonderful memories of the tastings we did together - not just my wines - and the impressions we exchanged. It was just as fascinating to walk with him between the rows of Bricco and dell'Ornato. Since 2016, the year of his death, I have continued a friendly discussion on the great themes of wine with a brilliant pupil of his, Christophe Ollivier, to whom I am grateful for his constructive availability: we must always ask ourselves how to improve.» The future of the winery is now guaranteed by the operational entry of Cesare Benvenuto, active since 2000, and by Federica, present full-time since 2019: both are dedicated to the overall management of the winery, thus ensuring the continuity of the purely family approach of the Pio Cesare winery. 



Barolo Ornato 2015

In the many subsequent tastings, the 2015 vintage is showing all its splendour. The nose is mature and expressive, deep in the hints of red fruit, hay and thyme. The mouth is progressive, rich and enveloping, with a very fine tannic texture, and with a portentous gait. The rhythm is solemn, severe but also of considerable lunge. It truly has everything to age big. But it is already true excellence.

Barolo Ornato 2013 The olfactory baggage is dark and measured, marked by tones of graphite and tar, together with light sensations of turmeric. When tasted, it demonstrates a very solid and complete gustatory structure, with sensations that recall soil, truffle and licorice root. Very long finish. It is a red that starts slowly, then conquers with a high-class progression.

Barolo Ornato 2011 An Ornato that 'darkens' in the balsamic component reminiscent of resin, licorice and rosemary, as well as in its more immediate character. Quite fascinating in its references to essences, with rarefied and gentle aromas, together with a soft, sweet and inviting fruity component. The finish is multifaceted, constantly evolving, elusive yet very pleasant.

Barolo Ornato 2010 An 11-year-old wine that feels under 5. It starts with tones of rhubarb, cinchona and small red fruits. The mouth is rich and very deep in the tannic texture still in the integration phase, while sharp acidity revives in freshness and verticality. It still betrays little, but it has a lot of flavour and length to spare: it will reach its peak not before another decade.

Barolo Ornato 2008 What character and what a sip! The first sensations refer to wet soil, Mediterranean scrub, a vivid sensation of freshness. The mouth is sharp, agile, refreshing and vibrant. The gustatory lunge is bold, lively, with an exquisite balsamic note. The finish is reminiscent of freshly ground coffee together with a nice return of fresh fruit and mint. It has a lot of edge and incisiveness.

Barolo Ornato 2003 The vintage, much reviled due to heat and drought, offers an Ornato with a remarkable character and spicy content. The colour is a dense garnet ruby that's still young; the aromas are very intense, from black truffles to cinnamon and ripe raspberries. The mouth is dense and powerful, with a generous pulp that balances the tannic texture and rises an enveloping, well peppery and very persistent taste.

Barolo Riserva 2000 Beautifully styled end piece. From this year, to celebrate the 140th anniversary, about 500 bottles of Barolo 2000 are offered, set aside in the family collection, aged 6 additional months in large barrels. The label recalls the key that grandmother Rosy, granddaughter of the founder, always wore around her neck: it granted access to the family reserve. The aromas stand out for their integrity and harmony of walnut shells, rosemary and camphor. When tasted, it reveals a fascinating modulated trend, embroidered with details, with a measured spicy garment and still perky fruit. The finish is relaxed, decidedly long and well chiselled.

GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTELVINI

On the hills of Asolo and Montello are the roots of the new Prosecco Rosé

Treviso Prosecco Rosé Brut ‘20 From the vineyards most suited to the production of sparkling wines, the Cuvée Prosecco Rosé, Serenitas collection, is born from glera and pinot noir grapes. The clusters of glera are harvested and vinified to obtain the sparkling Prosecco base, while the best pinot noir grapes are harvested early to limit the alcohol content and the amount of astringent tannins in the wine. The base thus obtained rests on the lees for a total of 70 days. The wine has an elegant pale pink colour. The perlage is fine and persistent and the delicate aromas are reminiscent of wisteria and white-fleshed fruit. And again hints of small red fruits such as cherry and currant slowly reveal themselves to the nose. Harmonious on the palate, it presents the right balance between the freshness of the glera grape, and the structure given by the pinot noir, resulting as creamy, persistent and savoury.

The company of the Serena family is the main protagonist of the territory of Asolo and Montello with a production that enhances the characteristics of the Prosecco produced there: territories linked to the most ancient winemaking tradition as shown by manuscripts of the 1500s that attest to how the wines of Asolo and Montello were taxed more than others because of their excellent quality. It is here that the history of the Serena family intertwines with the tradition of historic Venetian wine production. Armando Serena, now aided by his children Alberto and Sarah, is the founder and President of the company. Viticulture has been part of the family history since 1881. In the 1960s, even if his studies as a surveyor first lead him in another direction, Armando entered the

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company of his ancestors and ended up falling in love with the world of wine. After his marriage to Adri-

IDENTITY

35 hectares of property 250 hectares of winemakers contributing grapes

Estates: Zuitere Fontana Masorin Vigneto Ritrovato Presa IX Ca’ Cornaro

6.000.000 bottles/year Export: 30% of turnover

GAMBERO ROSSO X MONTELVINI

1 and 3. In addition to its own estates, Montelvini takes care of a vineyard in the heart of Asolo that the company has recovered since 2017 thanks to the “Vigneto Ritrovato” project 2. Sarah and Alberto Serena, Armando’s children, who today run the Venetian company

ana, in 1968 he broke away from his father’s winery and founded Montelvini. The winery is located in an area called Zuitere, or “land of the owls” as zuita is the dialect word that indicates the owl. This fascinating bird of prey became the Montelvini company emblem, guardian of 35 hectares of vineyards cultivated following the times and needs of nature. An example of sustainable agriculture is the agreement with Dolomiti Energia to use green electricity in the entire production process. In addition, in the summer of 2019, Montelvini decided to support FAI by becoming a Corporate

Golden Donour and concretely embracing the concept of protection and promotion of the landscape and cultural heritage. Currently the Serena winery is working to obtain the Equalitas sustainability certification which requires specific actions in the production process at both an environmental, economic and social level. Montelvini operates on several fronts and, through synergistic action, aims to achieve significant objectives in terms of respect for the environment, worker protection and economic sustainability. The latest project is Your Daily Rosé. During the launch of

 Montelvini – Volpago del Montello (TV) – fraz. Venegazzù – via Cal Trevigiana, 51

04238777 – montelvini.it

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Prosecco Rosé, Montelvini was the spokesperson for a rosy vision of the future: on April 28th the first company magazine was released, collecting the good news from the world of food and wine through a series of interviews with influential personalities such as the CEO of Green Pea Francesco Farinetti, the founder of Fuorisalone.it Paolo Casati, the media expert and founder of Will Imen Jane, food blogger Chiara Maci and many others. A real good news magazine distributed in various quality venues around Italy.

EATING AT THE MARKET. FOLLOWING THE EXAMPLE OF MADRID NOW IT'S ALSO POSSIBLE IN ROME Once neighbourhood commercial places, then sites for more prudent shopping, finally small gastronomic centres where not only is it possible to do one's daily shopping, but also eat a quick bite: from sandwiches to seafood dishes, by way of fresh pasta, desserts, international street food and pizza. Even in Rome the markets are transforming, drawing inspiration from the most virtuous examples abroad, starting with Spain

words by Michela Becchi – photos by Alessandro Barattelli

STORIES

n the beginning it was the vignarole, women busy cleaning vegetables bent over a stool next to the counter, where all the goodness of the countryside made a fine display. This ensured Roman food lovers a healthy and genuine food shopping resource. The market that inspired the character of fishmonger Peppino (Aldo Fabrizi) and the fruit seller Elide (Anna Magnani), protagonists of the film "Campo de' Fiori,'' by director Mario Bonnard, was precisely in the namesake market, operating since 1869 as the heart of the fruit and vegetable trade of the capital. A market that still resists, albeit with a different atmosphere. Punctual every morning, farmers and producers set up their stalls in the historic centre: some continue to clean artichokes and veg-

etables on site, sitting on their stools just like in the past, snapshots of an era in which the market represented a safe haven for those who sought freshness and seasonality. A frenetic and lively bustle of customers crowds the ancient market of Rome, over time it has become a sort of tourist attraction: a point to visit before indulging in a square of pizza at the nearby baker, for a true taste of the most authentic Roman flavour. Postcards and memories aside, however, the market system of the Capital in recent years has evolved (at least in part), transforming some of the city's landmarks into real gastromarkets capable of offering not only quality products but also ready-made meals, street food and good food to munch on while browsing around the market stalls. A model mimick-

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ing the Spanish one, even if the steps necessary to achieve similarity to the 46 covered markets in Madrid with a mixed retail and small dining offer are still many. However, there are also virtuous examples in the Eternal City, starting with the most talked about case of recent times, i.e. the Testaccio Market, which has shown how good management of market structures can contribute to the development of attractive and modern gastronomic centres. MERCATO TESTACCIO. STREET FOOD AT FULL THROTTLE Opposite Monte dei Cocci, the now no longer "new" Testaccio Market with contemporary design by Marco Rietti has seen a series of valid names in the restaurant world come and go, which have brought street food amid

FOOD MARKETS IN ROME

CAMPO DE’ FIORI: TIME FOR A CHANGE But back to Campo de' Fiori, the ancient market that over time has lost some of its charm in favour of a more touristy offer. Yet, it remains the most historic market in the city, the one that should contain Roman charm and folklore: is it time for a change? Perhaps this is the right moment for a change, thanks to the absence of tourism caused by the ongoing health emergency. Rome remains a crowded city, but after a long time it was returned to the Romans, to those who experience the city every day, away from tourist routes and the most popular destinations for foreigners. A change linked to a global crisis, of course, but which can (and must) still lead to an evolution: if the places in the city designed for tourists are emptied of their regular customers, who runs those activities? It's time to rethink the offer, like the De Sanctis family did. In the summer of 2020 they transformed their Camillo restaurant, active at number 79 of Piazza Navona since 1890, creating a young and original proposal, working with and for the neighbourhood and attracting local customers: thus making of a tourist restaurant an open lounge, as it was in the 1960s when enjoying aperitif in the square was a common habit of many Romans. With the hope that reshaping the offer at more affordable prices and with a contemporary menu will also attract tourists in the future, when visiting the Eternal City will resume. The De Sanctis family gets supplies right at the Campo de' Fiori market, early in the day gathers a nice haul of fresh fruit and vegetables to use in their recipes. Because, if Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori have always been fascinating places for tourists, they can also return to being so for the locals. 2

the stalls of fruit, vegetables, meat and cheeses of all kinds, from Roman-style pizza to the most innovative food retail formats proposed by haute cuisine chefs. Cristina Bowerman, for example, who with her Cups revolutionised the gastronomy of the market, serving sophisticated dishes in paper containers, as well as bread, pizza and baked goods. But even before that, there was Sergio Esposito, forerunner of the restaurants in Testaccio who achieved success thanks to a formula that is as simple as it is winning: grandma's cooking stuffed in a sandwich. "Allesso di scottona," "picchiapò," artichokes alla romana, carbonara, amatriciana, beef tongue with salsa verde... all the traditional recipes are made ad hoc by Mordi e Vai end up in a crunchy ciabatta, sliced in half

and soaked in savoury juices. There is always a long wait, but it's worth waiting even just for a taste of the famous meatballs, slightly flattened, with a dry and crunchy breading and tender meat interior. Next to the central cafè there is Zoè, a green smoothie and juice bars dedicated to fruit and vegetable products that offers juices, extracts, fruit salads and fresh specialties, perfect for relieving the palate and stomach after one of Sergio's sandwiches. In a somewhat secluded position you can instead appreciate one of the most delicious pizza squares in the city, belonging to Casa Manco at stall 22 (which later opened a store also in Trastevere), a family-run business that began at the end of 2016, and that has conquered customers thanks to a light and digestible dough, enriched

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with captivating condiments and many vegan options. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a little tasty hunger-breaker, FoodBox is the place for you: the challenge of Marco Morello, former collaborator of Arcangelo Dandini at Supplizio, was a successful one. At his stall number 66 brought all the Italian tradition in fried version, from artichokes Jewish style to bombette typical of Puglia's Itria Valley, passing through classic supplì, cacio e pepe and other delicacies. . FOREIGN CUISINES AMONG MARKET STALLS In the popular Garbatella district there are two main markets: the farmers market in via Passino and the older one in via Santa Galla. It is in the latter, at stall number 

STORIES

3 1-4 (and in the opening) The Testaccio market: contemporary design by Marco Rietti, has seen a series of valid names in the restaurant world bring street food of all kinds to the fruit, vegetable, meat and cheese stalls, from Roman-style pizza to the most innovative proposals of haute cuisine chefs

30, that YaLùz was born, a takeaway gastronomy (but there is no shortage of tables to sit at) that expertly mixes flavours, ingredients and recipes from different countries, in a menu that changes constantly and where it's common to find spices and typical Middle Eastern dishes. Founders Matteo Franceschi and Andrea Gattoni, respectively architect and computer scientist converted to cuisine, while in the kitchen are Rosa Marzullo, Daniela Ercolano and Moustapha Keita. What's for lunch? Neapolitan-style pasta and potatoes; chicory omelette; arroz chaufa - Peruvian rice with vegetables, ginger and soy sauce - chicken with mustard and curry; boiled meat salad; chickpea hummus and tzatziki sauce. During summer the eatery stays open into the evening

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with AperiLùz, a YaLùz-style aperitivo that combines craft beer or wine with the dishes of the day. If you are looking for international cuisines, a good solution can also be Blackdelicious Lab at the market in Piazza Giovanni De Calvi: a corner of Africa (central and equatorial, explains the founder Delisia Essono) in the heart of the Monteverde district, where food lovers can taste specialties such as beef accra with rice and tomato, zighinì with injera, roast lamb in ogbono sauce, spicy Yassa, steamed plantain, fish “afroburger” and many other dishes capable of transporting the palate to distant lands. Always international, but with a more cosmopolitan taste are the Bucolica donuts at stall number 57 (also in Testaccio), artisan desserts inspired by American donuts and made with

FOOD MARKETS IN ROME

THE CASE OF VIVI SFUSO IN THE TOR DE' CENCI MARKET Tor de' Cenci market is certainly not exemplary. The structure leaves something to be desired, dialogue with the external environment is not the best, but the internal market stalls reserve pleasant surprises. There is Agricolture Nuova, a cooperative born in the late '70s that grows and sells its own organic vegetables, yogurt, ricotta and other dairy products, also present in the Rome 70 market. But above all this is where Vivi Sfuso is located, a sui generis market stall and unique case in a Roman merchant structure dedicated exclusively to the sale of unpackaged products. Of course, there is no shortage of detergents on tap and loose spices sold in many other places, but the painstaking work of Vivi Sfuso is very different and offers a selection of niche products that can be purchased directly in their containers. Dried and dehydrated fruit, legumes, spices, grains, flours, infusions, herbal teas: jars and containers brought from home are weighed, tare calculated and then filled with all the goodness of the shop. There is no shortage of organic biscuits, natural cosmetics, vegan products, vegetable nut butters, spreads, vegan drinks and original gift ideas, from artisan candles to essential oils. A real rarity at stall number 26. 4

local ingredients: originally they were only donuts cooked in the oven and rolled in sugar, then the offer expanded to include bagels, buns for burgers, cakes, biscuits, cinnamon rolls, cakes covered in sugar icing and sweets of all kinds. FROM MARKET STALL TO RESTAURANT Even before Italian style donuts, however, in Monteverde it was another market that was the talk of the town and not for the brilliant management of the structures, on the contrary: the local Piazza San Giovanni di Dio market, overlooking the Gianicolense ring road, is not exactly a model to imitate, abandoned and riddled with the decay of a dilapidated structure. A place that has maintained its original appear-

ance over time, with fruit, vegetables, meat and fish stalls, a few ones selling spices and dehydrated fruit for the most demanding consumers. One day, however, Riccardo Rossi and Letizia Rotelli arrived. He is a university professor and she was the owner of a supermarket, with their Tutto Ghiotto market stall revolutionizing the scene. With courage, they gradually became a gastronomic reality of reference for those who, among sheet metal structures, were looking for quality and rarity arriving from all over Italy. The initial idea was to select niche products from Abruzzo and Le Marche, then the couple came to collect specialties from everywhere with curiosity and competence, consolidating the relationship with a loyal clientele, also used to stopping for a snack at

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lunchtime, perhaps choosing a good sandwich with fine salami sold at the counter. Today Tutto Ghiotto is still located along the Gianicolense, but on the opposite side of the road, at number 149: it is no longer a "mere" market stall but rather a respectable shop-restaurant, a delicatessen with a tastefully furnished kitchen, the long counter full of delicacies dominating the scene, and a good amount of seating where guests can sit down to enjoy essential and never banal dishes, made with authentic Made in Italy excellence. BUT ALSO FROM RESTAURANT TO MARKET STALL Similarly to Tutto Ghiotto, albeit the reverse, is Ciao Checca: the idea of three Roman partners who in 2013 joined forces to propose a good, 

FARMER’S MARKET IN ROMA AND SURROUNDINGS

STORIES

 Mercato di Campagna Amica via

Tiburtina 695

 Mercato di Campagna Amica

FARMER'S MARKET IN ROMA AND SURROUNDINGS

Ostia Antica  Mercato di Campagna Amica

Fonte Acqua Egeria – via dell’Almone 111 Mercato Contadino Tiburtino

 Mercato di Campagna Amica

Eur – v.le tecnica – angolo v.le ciclismo

Mercato Contadino di Bracciano

 Mercato di Campagna Amica

ArcheoMercato della Terra di Tivoli e Valle dell’Aniene

Circo Massimo - via di S. Teodoro, 74  Mercato di Campagna Amica

Auditorium  Mercato di Campagna Amica

Bracciano

Monterotondo

Foro Contadino

 Mercato Biologico

Monterotondo

Ostia

Guidonia Montecelio

 Mercato Contadino Terra/Terra

Forte Prenestino - via Federico Delpino, 187  Mercato Contadino Terra/Terra

Orto Cucina e Dispensa

ROMA

BioMercato

Città dell’Utopia - via Valeriano, 3f

Mercato dei Produttori

Farmer’s Market

 Orto Cucina e Dispensa

Parco Commerciale di Torre Spaccata via di Torre Spaccata, 110

Tivoli

Zagarolo Fiumicino

 Farmer’s Market

Frascati Mercato Contadino Coltivendo

Garbatella - via Passino

Ostia

 BioMercato

Città dell’Altra Economia largo Dino Frisullo

Velletri

Mercato Biologico

 Foro Contadino

Nuovo Salario - piazza Bortolo Belotti Mercato Contadino del Litorale Laziale

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

Infernetto - via Cristoforo Colombo, 1897  Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

Capannelle - via Appia Nuova, 1245  Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

Mercato di Campagna Amica

Eur Torrino - via di Decima, 72

Anzio

Nettuno

Latina

Mercato Contadino Terra/Terra

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani Rocca di Papa

Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

Mercato della Terra

Pavona

10 km

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani Grottaferrata  Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani Genzano

 Mercato Contadino Coltivendo

 Mercato Contadino Tiburtino

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

Zagarolo

Guidonia Montecelio - via Antonio Meucci

Frascati

 Mercato Agricolo Coltivendo

 Mercato Contadino Tiburtino Coltivendo

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani Ariccia

Velletri

Guidonia Montecelio - via Polibio

 Mercato della Terra

 ArcheoMercato della Terra di Tivoli

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

Olevano Romano

Albano Laziale, Villa Altieri

 Mercato della Terra

mercatocontadino.org

 Mercato Contadino Roma e Castelli Romani

Monte Porzio Catone

Albano Laziale, piazza Pia

 Mercato della Terra

 Mercato Contadino di Bracciano

Frascati

 Mercato Contadino del Litorale Laziale

 Mercato dei Produttori

Nettuno

Montecompatri

 Mercato Contadino del Litorale Laziale

 Mercato Contadino Tiburtino

Anzio

Guidonia Montecelio - via Ludovico Muratori

Valle dell’Aniene

campagnamica.it terrafermamercatocontadino.it regione.lazio.it/mercaticontadini/i-mercati-

contadini/

@mercato coltivendo @archeomercatodellaterrativolievalledellaniene

mesmerising wines

FOOD MARKETS IN ROME

FARMER'S MARKET CONQUER THE ITALIAN CAPITAL Farmers' markets, dedicated to trade by direct farmers only, is a phenomenon that began to spread in the United States in the 1970s. It arrived in Europe in 1982, with the Marché de Pays in Provence, the first territory to experiment with this new formula. Then there was Great Britain and, starting from the mid-2000s, farmer's markets began to take root in Italy too, perfect for those who seek quality, taste but above all ethics in food: a similar shopping cart ensures local, seasonal, organically grown products with a transparent supply chain. Certified, and not just short. Among the many examples of farmers' markets in Rome the network of the Campagna Amica Foundation deserves a special mention, founded in 2008 by Coldiretti with the aim of promoting Italian agriculture as a key element for the protection of the environment and traditions. A famous case is the market in via di San Teodoro, at the Circus Maximus, a large open space that every weekend gathers careful consumers from everywhere in the city. The Coltivendo circuit is also interesting, an organized network of farmstead markets promoted since 2009 by the Province of Rome, within which a year later the project of the Rome Farmer's Market and the Castelli Romani was born, on the initiative of the Km 0 Association - Short Chain Agri-food Consortium and Agricultural Markets. Then there are the Slow Food Terra Markets, while among the latest born stands out Orto, Cucina e Dispensa, a farmer's market born in Genzano twenty years ago thanks to the Bellisari family, owner of a farm that produces vegetables in the Agropontino area since 1959, and recently selling in the city, inside the Torre Spaccata Shopping Mall, with the help of entrepreneur Marco Petrucci.

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light, practical cuisine, which fits in well with the hectic pace of a day in the eternal city. This time, however, the first enterprise was in Piazza Firenze, in a closed venue. It was only after that they moved inside a market: the Nomentano market, which a few years ago promoted a relaunch of the structure which provided for the modernisation of services and the creation of a central square equipped with tables and chairs for dining on site. A new look, but the sellers had remained almost the same: after all, in addition to a good dose of competence, betting on a dining offer at the market also takes a pinch of courage. The members of the innovative format that served well-made pasta dishes in compostable containers were not lacking in initiative, and so in 2018 the simple recipes of Ciao Checca arrived at the market: specialties of the Italian tradition that lend leaner and more 

STORIES

CITY COUNCILOR: MONEY IS COMING FOR NEIGHBORHOOD PROJECTS Neighbourhood markets is a very topical issue also for politics. This is confirmed by the regional councilor (of the PD party) of Lazio Region Marta Leonori, who for years has been involved in the redevelopment of commercial structures in Rome. As well as being a true lover of good food: «I love shopping at the markets. I like the stalls in Testaccio, the Maresca brothers' fish market in Montagnola and of course the extraordinary cheeses in Piazza Epiro.» But Leonori remains first of all a political figure that has chosen to dedicate a large part of her work to improving these realities: «I was already dealing with it when I was a councilor, a period in which I fought to extend opening hours, always keeping track of the will of the retailers.» In fact, they are the protagonists of each of his projects: «A tender has recently come out for the redevelopment of consumption spaces, the encouragement of consumption on the spot and the promotion of markets, always including the involvement of seller associations.» A project to modernise and develop the distribution network, in addition to the offer itself: «Local consumption is essential for the evolution of the markets of a large city. There is no talk of transforming markets into small restaurants: there are not many tables or refreshment points, what makes eating a sandwich or a dish at the market special is precisely the sense of conviviality that is created in the common areas.» A step to be taken quickly, but only where the necessary conditions are met, «no one wants to distort the identity of the local markets. Some realities are designed and suitable only for shopping and it is right that they remain so. For all the others, however, investments are needed: with the new call for proposals, each municipality can present a maximum of two projects and up to 200,000 euros of funding per market.» 6

modern interpretations, all made with select ingredients and Slow Food Presidia. ROMAN DISHES AND FRIED CHICKEN A lot of (good) pasta can also be enjoyed at the Flaminio Market, a structure with a particular history: it originally belonged to the noble Ruffo family, which in the 1940s sold its warehouses to the Municipality of Rome, which transformed them into the covered neighbourhood market we know today. A beautiful reality a few steps from Piazza del Popolo and Villa Borghese, where you can find farmer stalls but also a curious refreshment point, created by three friends who are passionate about cooking and who, after several experiences in research restaurants in Rome, decided to launch a

new adventure, different but equally engaging. The sign reads Gramigna - Culinary resistance, and offers traditional Roman dishes: burgers, sandwiches, ideal meals for quick but tasty breaks. Think farfalle alla gricia with artichokes and pecorino, handmade fettuccine with a sweet peppers and shrimp cream; pappardelle with wild boar sauce; fried chicken and other delicious recipes that take inspiration from the flavours of the city and the Roman countryside interpreted in a modern and original way. And speaking of fried chicken: at the Parioli Market there is Polletti San Bartolomeo, a quality fast food employing meat of free-range chickens from the company by the same name: chicken sticks, rotisserie wings, nuggets, sandwiches with chicken schnitzel, chicken salad served with baked

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potatoes, potato croquettes, seasonal vegetables, paired with a fine craft beer. In a well-kept kiosk with several tables where guests can sit and enjoy a hot meal in total relaxation, although chicken meals are perfect for takeout and available for home delivery in neighbouring areas. At stall 47 of Mercato Italia, on the other hand, they pay tribute to the most authentic Roman flavours thanks to Perpassione: Roman tripe, fish recipes on Fridays - as per tradition - Roman-style artichokes, veal stew with sauce, meatballs with tomato... homemade flavours that never tire, that can be ordered also for home delivery. The perfect format for the covered market is on via Catania, in the heart of the university district that revolves around La Sapienza, ideal for hungry students looking for a delicious meal.

FOOD MARKETS IN ROME

CODA ALLA VACCINARA, SEAFOOD AND WINE Undecided between meat or fish? At the Mercato dell'Unità on Via Cola di Rienzo you will find both, brought home or enjoyed on site already prepared. Il Boss della carne is a quality butcher shop that over time has been appreciated not only for the fine cuts and the high level ingredients, but also for the delicious ready-made meals to be enjoyed at the moment or to take home. The counter owned by the Di Gregorio family was born thanks to their father Giuseppe, but it was then the siblings who expanded the business by including prepared dishes already seasoned to be cooked and others ready for the lunch break, from meatballs to oxtail. For a good seafood dish, on the other hand, go to Fish & Chic, which cooks fresh fish in every manner, from

eggplant stuffed with cuttlefish to Catalan-style lobster, without forgetting the great classics such as spaghetti with clams: the catch of the day comes from Riopesca, at stall 3-4 that selects fresh products that change from time to time. It's therefore possible to eat well in the markets of Rome, but there are those who also pay attention to the drinks front. An example of this is Also Wine, born in 2016 from the idea of a group of folks passionate about wine and craft beer, who at stall 117 of the Trieste Market have created a small but well-stocked wine shop with select labels. The shop in 2020 was transformed into a refreshment point, with hot and cold dishes prepared with the best that the market stalls have to offer: there are grain bowls with vegetables, fried food, savoury pies, pasta courses and a

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nice selection of sandwiches and burgers, filled with seasonal and super local ingredients. FINE FOOD SHOPPING BETWEEN STALLS Eating at the market is a unique experience, which should be increasingly accessible in all city commerce points. Without, however, minimising the offer of fresh products which is the beating heart of the markets, and which in many contexts achieves truly high quality standards. This is the case, for example, of the specialties of La Formaggeria at stall number 25 of the Mercato Latino in Piazza Epiro, cheeses are carefully selected at niche companies, excellent cheesemakers from all over Italy, which also leave room for cured meats, preserves and other good products. High-quality 

STORIES

FARMER’S MARKETS IN ROMA AND SURROUNDINGS  Mercato Testaccio via

Aldo Manuzio, 66b

 Garbatella via

Santa Galla

ROME CITY MARKETS Mercato Parioli

Mercato Nomentano

Parco di Villa Ada

Mercato Flaminio

Mercato Trionfale

Villa Borghese

 Monteverde piazza

Giovanni De Calvi

 Gianicolense piazza

San Giovanni di Dio

 Mercato Nomentano piazza

via

Trinità dei Monti Mercato Trieste

Città del Vaticano

Roma Termini

Gianicolense

Alessandria

 Mercato Flaminio

Flaminia, 60

Mercato Italia

Mercato dell’Unità

Colosseo Villa Dora Pamphili

Mercato di Campo De' Fiori

Mercato di San Lorenzo

Terme di Caracalla

 Mercato Parioli

Parioli (vicino a inizio viale della Moschea) viale

 Mercato Italia via

Catania, 70

Parco dell’Appia Antica

 Mercato dell’Unità via

Nuovo Mercato dell'Esquilino

Mercato Testaccio

Cola di Rienzo – piazza dell’Unità, 53

Monteverde

Garbatella

 Mercato Trieste via

Chiana, 109

 Mercato di Piazza Epiro  Mercato Laurentino via

Francesco Sapori

Mercato di Piazza Epiro

 Mercato Tuscolano III (Quadraro) viale

EUR

Spartaco, 45

 Mercato di San Lorenzo largo degli

Osci

 Mercato Trionfale via

Andrea Doria, 41

Mercato Tuscolano III (Quadraro)

 Mercato di Campo De' Fiori  Mercato Tor de' Cenci via

Vitaliano Rotellini, 29

Mercato Tor de' Cenci Mercato Laurentino

2 km

APP FOR ONLINE SHOPPING AT ROME MARKETS An important place among the initiatives for an increasingly solid market network are structures dedicated to digitalization, especially in a historical period such as the current when the concept of spending has necessarily evolved. MyBanco was born to allow customers to continue shopping at the counters of the local markets during lockdown. This is a simple and user-friendly app for ordering via smartphone and receiving products at home. It was conceived by Riccardo Croci, Stefano Angelini and Massimo Palmieri, who bring together the fresh produce of different markets in the city: Trieste, Trionfale, Parioli, Piazza Epiro, Testaccio, Montagnola, Piazza Gimma, San Giovanni di Dio and soon also Casilino23. High attention is also paid to the environmental impact: delivery is entrusted to CORRO riders with their eco cargo bikes, which make delivery transport more sustainable.

C’è chi li definisce estremi, chi li chiama eroici, questi vini sono figli della fatica e del sudore dell’uomo. Vini preziosi, frutto del duro lavoro di uomini e donne che, per mancanza di spazio, sono costretti a coltivare con il sistema del “pergolato” che prevede una sorta di griglia dove, pali incassati direttamente nella roccia, sostengono vitigni cresciuti in fazzoletti di terra a strapiombo sul meraviglioso mare

www.marisacuomo.com CantineMarisaCuomo

Ph. Bruno Bruchi

della costa amalfitana.

FOOD MARKETS IN ROME

5-8 Mercato Trionfale: the stalls are historical, with decades-long family traditions, among which some more recent standouts such as Stall #102 owned by Ivo and Arsenio or #192, Da Peppino, present since 1924 selling fresh eggs, as well as honey and preserves.

cheeses can also be found at Tomei Cibo Giusto (stall number 16, Laurentino Market), which offers refined artisan specialties, from sweets to cured meats, from extra virgin olive oil to jams. And the stalls can be excellent supply points for fresh fish, as demonstrated by Ittica Urbano at the Tuscolano III Market, in the Quadraro area, with its selection of local products, mostly coming from the sea of Fiumicino, Anzio and Nettuno; or Mallozzi at Mercato di San Lorenzo, where true rarities can be found early in the morning, from sea urchins to cod roe. There is also good food shopping at Mercato Trionfale: the stalls are historical, with decades of family traditions, among which some more recent brands stand out, such as stall number 102 owned by Ivo and Arsenio, childhood friends who grew up in Ariccia who in 2013 took over the counter, serving Porchetta di Ariccia Igp by Leoni Randolfo. Some

WORLD FLAVOURS AT THE ESQUILINO NEIGHBOURHOOD A few steps from the largest square in Rome is the most multicultural of the Roman markets, initially born in Piazza Vittorio and then, in 2001, moved a little further between via Principe Amedeo and via Filippo Turati. Under the roof that covers this international bazaar are products that belong to different cultures: vegetables, spices from all over the world and also fabrics. Ghee, muscovado sugar, many types of rice, chillies, loose legumes, vegetables from distant lands: all the languages of the world spoken at the stalls. Neighborhood residents still call the market with its old "Piazza Vittorio" name, but there is no lack of classic stalls selling fish and meat. On Saturdays the market transforms thanks to ReFoodgees, an anti-waste association that recovers and distributes all the food surpluses of the day: the traders now know the volunteers, and from early morning they put aside their leftovers, which are then donated and therefore saved from the garbage bin. 8

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of the oldest stalls, such as number 192, Da Peppino, present since 1924 with fresh eggs, as well as honey and preserves, are no less important. For quality meats, Testaccio the destination, with the historic Macelleria Iegri or the Sartor butcher, but there is also room for vegans thanks to the Vegan Store, a small temple of taste for those who have chosen to give up animal products, which here can rely on a wide selection of cheeses, meats, drinks and other plant products. Finally, the story of Galline Felici is curious: a Roman business dedicated to the breeding of free range hens that lay eggs at their own pace: fresh eggs are delivered at home by the same company or through some platforms, but they are also available in all the markets of the Mercati Contadini network of Rome and the Castelli Romani, with the possibility of using and bringing back your own container. 

GAMBERO ROSSO X SAN FELICE

San Felice, Chianti Classico in the world is now also looking at the Italian market

On the Chianti Classico map, the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, a few kilometres from Siena, represents the southern offshoot of the denomination. It is in this territory that the long history of San Felice begins, starting from a village whose first traces date back to the beginning of the 8th century, when these lands with forests and houses were the subject of disputes between the bishops of Arezzo and Siena. The recent history of the winery, on the other hand, can be moved much further in time: the protagonist was Giulio Grisaldi del Taja, whose family took possession of the village and its land in 1700. Sensing the great agricultural potential of the estate, around the 1920s the Count invested in rural activities and made his con-

IDENTITY The winery

1700 hectares

60 hectares of olive grove 180 hectares of vineyard:

149 hectares in Chianti Classico 23 hectares in Montalcino 8 hectares in Bolgheri 1,2 million bottles produced annually 65% export 20 labels 17 time winner of Tre Bicchieri Relais & Chateaux

29 rooms • 31 suites 2 villas • 2 restaurants

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tribution to the foundation of the Chianti Classico Consortium in 1924. In 1978 San Felice was purchased by the Allianz Group, which began a thorough renovation of the village, creating a state-of-the-art winery and, later, in 1991, the impressive restoration of the structures and the their conversion into a “diffused” hotel. It is the only Chianti Classico resort within the international circuit of luxury hotels Relais & Chateaux. «The nerve centre of our company is here in the Chianti Classico – explains General Manager Davide Profeti – it is the main headquarters of our business, the place where over the years the research and experimentation projects that are part of our company DNA have been carried out. From these projects the

GAMBERO ROSSO X SAN FELICE

1. Aerial view of the village of San Felice, in the area of the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, a few kilometres from Siena 2. The vineyards in Bolgheri, in the Tuscan Maremma close to the Tyrrhenian coast

Fifty years of Vigorello, progenitor of the SuperTuscans There are some labels, not many actually, that have changed the history of Italian wine. Vigorello is certainly part of this exclusive club, one of the flagship products of San Felice, an iconic wine that blew out fifty birthday candles with the 2018 harvest. «It’s an important anniversary, an appointment with history, and not just the history of San Felice!» It was 1968 and at that time in Chianti Classico wine was still produced following the socalled recipe of Baron Ricasoli in which, in addition to Sangiovese and Canaiolo, the use of Malvasia was included. «Vigorello represented a breaking point – explains Davide Profeti – a pure Sangiovese born from the vision, I would describe as pioneering, of Enzo Morganti, at the time director of the company’s wine activities, who had a very clear objective: to demonstrate the qualitative potential of wines of the Chianti Classico giving the Sangiovese grape an autonomous and leading role. An intuition that also found consensus among other Chianti winemakers, convincing them to embrace the idea of single varietal Sangiovese and extend it, in the years following, to Cabernet Sauvignon, which was not very widespread at the time. Progressively the Bordeaux vine also took on a key role in the reputation of Tuscan wines; to the point that in 1979 Vigorello became a blend of the two grapes, marking the debut of the famous SuperTuscans, which have gained international fame over the years. Vigorello then is the progenitor of all this!» Any anticipation of the 2018 vintage? «Obviously it is still very young, but it seems to have all the credentials to be a memorable vintage.»

of wines of great rigour and character,» with 65 hectares of property that lie along the southwestern slope of the Montalcino hill; while in Bolgheri, in the locality of Le Sondraie, on the typical silt-sandy soils of the area, characterised by a Mediterranean climate, lies Bell’Aja, six hectares of vineyards in a single plot of land planted with cabernet sauvignon and merlot. «65% of our production – says the Director – is exported to four continents and reaches 48 countries in the world: The United States, which absorb on average 38% of total exports, and then Canada, Russia, United Kingdom and South Korea are our main markets. But in the near future we have decided to pay particular attention to the domestic market, where we are strengthening our sales force.»

most representative wines of the company were born, symbols of the commitment spent over the years for the enhancement of the Sangiovese grape and for the rediscovery and preservation of native varieties that in recent years have risked extinction.» But San Felice is not the only winery of a Group that, over the years, has looked around Tuscany and has invested in two other territories at the top of regional winemaking. «The push to expand our presence in the territories of Montalcino first and then Bolgheri – explains Profeti – came thanks to the results obtained by our wines in the Chianti Classico appellation and with the specific desire to be present in the most suitable areas of Tuscany to reach new goals of excellence.» Thus in Montalcino we find Campogiovanni, «ideal for its microclimate and soil for the production

 Società Agricola San Felice – loc. San Felice – Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI)

057739911 – agricolasanfelice.it

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - NICOLA PORTINARI

NICOLA PORTINARI CONQUERING SIMPLICITY Self-taught, raised among the aromas and flavours of his family's cooking, Nicola learned by watching and doing. And then working in the great kitchens of Europe. "We have three cornerstones: our territory, innovation to maintain our gastronomic traditions by enhancing their qualities, and lightness: light and easyto-digest dishes so that a haute cuisine experience can remain enjoyable even after we get up from the table." Here is a summary of Nicola's culinary vision

WHERE LA PECA Lonigo (VI) - via A. Giovannelli, 2 0444830214 - lapeca.it POINTS IN THE 2021 GUIDE Cuisine 45 Wine Service 18 Service 27 Total 90 OPENED IN 1987 by Stefano Polacchi - photos by Sebastiano Barbieri

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RECIPES

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - NICOLA PORTINARI

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BIGOLI "Bigoli con le sarde is a flagship dish of Venetian cuisine, much loved by fishermen. I created a lighter version with a careful play of contrasts between flavours and temperatures. Tropea onion gelato meets the saltiness of sardines on bigoli made in the press to enhance their porousity. A dish for which a lot of experimentation and research was needed, but which is now a permanent presence on the menu for the past 20 years and always in great demand.

foto di Gabrio Tomelleri

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RECIPES

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MONKFISH "This is a dish that uses new processing methods, created to enhance this fish with a particular texture. Monkfish is dry-aged maturation for 5 days: in a dry marinade with salt, sugar and spices and then wrapped in nori seaweed, which allows it to block oxidation and keep it soft and juicy. The fish bones are processed with an OCOO which allows the juice to be extracted at a low temperature without any loss of flavour. It is then cooked with green pepper and served with spinach sautéed in black olive juice from the restaurant's olive tree and cranberry.

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - NICOLA PORTINARI

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RECIPES

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PORTRAIT OF A CHEF IN THREE DISHES - NICOLA PORTINARI

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MALLARD “A dish that symbolises seasonality. A small company raises mallards in the wild starting from the laying of the eggs, exclusively for our restaurant. In spring, the mallard chicks are born and they will be ready towards the end of the summer. After a 25-day dry aging maturation, the dish is born and that can stay on the menu for a maximum of two months. The mallard is cooked in a salty crust in the Big Green Egg for about 3 minutes, thinly sliced to savour the most particular notes of the meat and paired in a different way every year. The tastiest part, on the other hand, is made up of the overcooked thigh served in a small sandwich.

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EXTRAVIRGIN

OLI D’ITALIA 2021 CHAMPIONS The twelfth edition of the Oli d’Italia guide, released this month in bookstores and on newsstands, has had the highest number of subscriptions ever. Here we present the 29 Special Awards 2021, the best of the best by Stefano Polacchi and Indra Galbo

Frantoio di Santa Tea Gonnelli 1585 – Olive Verdi Reggello (FI) via Piero della Francesca 055868117 gonnelli1585.it

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The Gonnelli family’s history is ancient: in 1585 brothers Francesco, Lorenzo and Giulio bought the Santa Tea farm for 300 coins. Today the same family runs the oil press and the 200-hectare farm with 48,000 plants.

Frantoio Muraglia – Gran Cru Tenuta Macchia di Rose Monocultivar Coratina Andria (BT) via San Candido, 83 08831950959 frantoiomuraglia.it

In the area most suited for Apulian olive growing, the Muraglia family has been producing olive oil for five generations, with 13,000 plants in 44 hectares and 10,000 quintals of locally purchased olives.

Frantoio di Riva – 46° Parallelo Monocultivar Casaliva Riva del Garda (TN) via San Nazzaro, 4 0464552133 agririva.it

Colli Etruschi – Evo Dop Tuscia Monocultivar Caninese Blera (VT) via degli Ulivi, 2 0761470469 collietruschi.it

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Producer of the year

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, rocket, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic vinegar. Green, persistent.

Oil mill of the year

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 7 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: rocket, nettles, apples, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic vinegar. Green, persistent. 

The cooperative led by Nicola Fazzi is confirmed as a reference point for Tuscia: 298 members for a total of 800 hectares of olive groves with 45,000 plants on the tuffaceous-clayey hilly soils typical of this area.

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Price range: 3 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 5 Spicy: 5 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, apples, grass, almonds, pepper. Green, persistent.

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Founded in 1926, it is one of the most interesting and dynamic agricultural businesses in Italy. The olive production of Agririva (350 contributing members) represents 65% of the total production of Garda Trentino DOP olive oil with “its” 120,000 olive trees.

Producer of the year

Oil mill of the year

Price Range: 4 Fruity: 7 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, nettles, grass, pine nuts, almonds, pepper, balsamic vinegar. Green, persistent.

TOP CHARTS

Tommaso Masciantonio Trappeto di Caprafico – Monocultivar Intosso Casoli (CH) c.da Caprafico, 35 0871897457 trappeto dicaprafico.com

Tommaso Masciantonio is a flag-bearer of the passionate battle in favour of quality extra virgin olive oil. Located in high hills, in a land suitable for natural agriculture, with 5,000 native olive trees. The wines are also excellent and elegant.

Olearia San Giorgio – Micu 1906 San Giorgio Morgeto (RC) c.da Ricevuto, 18 0966940569 olearia.it

The property of the Fazari brothers is a reference point for olive growing beyond their native Calabria. Today Antonio and Girolamo Fazari represent the third generation and manage 150 hectares (12 of which farmed organically) home to 25,000 plants.

A dynamic cooperative, founded in 2003 with a strong focus on quality that has led the company to great results. The 10,000 olive trees live on 45 hectares farmed organically and in conversion.

Decimi – Dop Umbria Colli Martani Bettona (PG) via Prigionieri, 19 075987304 oliodecimi.it

Fonte di Foiano – Riflessi Monocultivar Maurino Castagneto Carducci (LI) loc. Fonte di Foiano, 148 0565766043 fontedifoiano.it

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Best light fruity

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 4 Bitter: 4 Spicy: 4 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, aromatic herbs, apples. Green.

Best medium fruity

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: rocket, grass, balsamic vinegar. Green, persistent. 

The company was founded in the late 1970s, when Michele and Marina Di Gaetano moved from Milan to Tuscany to start a farming business. The olive grove is 30 hectares: today it’s managed by brothers Paolo and Simone who are the sons of the founders.

Best light fruity

Price Range: 2 Fruity: 3 Bitter: 4 Spicy: 4 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, aromatic herbs, flowers, chamomile, apples. Green.

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The story of Graziano Decimi is incredible: he worked as a contractor and in a few years he has become one of the most authoritative artisans of extra virgin olive oil. He has 7,000 olive trees between Bettona, Collemancio and Giano dell’Umbria. His passion for the oil mill is insane.

Oil grower of the year

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, aromatic herbs, apples, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic vinegar. Green, persistent. 

Agrestis – Nettaribleo Dop Monti Iblei Monocultivar Tonda Iblea Bio Buccheri (SR) via Sabauda, 86a 0931315353 agrestis.eu

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Best medium fruity

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 5 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, herbs, apples, grass, pepper. Green, persistent.

EXTRAVIRGIN

Ciccolella – Coppadoro Monocultivar Coratina Molfetta (BA) s.da Vicinale Fondo Favale 0809023998 oliociccolella.it

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The estate is family-run, managed with passion by Giuseppe Ciccolella and his wife Francesca who take care of the 8,000 olive trees spread over 30 hectares located north of Bari. The harvest of the just ripe drupes is done mechanically.

Oro di Giano Agricadd – Monocultivar San Felice Giano dell’Umbria (PG) loc. Macciano, 19a 3355959500 orodigiano.it

Sàgona – Monocultivar Moraiolo Bio Loro Ciuffenna (AR) via San Clemente in Valle 3703222170 sagona.it

In the heart of the Pratomagno region that climbs towards the Apennines, Daniele Corrotti produces olive oil from an olive grove of 1,800 trees and runs a characteristic tavern. He also produces wine, potatoes and zolfini beans.

The De Carlo family has been living on these lands since 1700. Today, with over 25,000 olive trees, they carry on Puglia’s quality standard for extra virgin olive oil (and farming in general). Also worth mentioning is their production of brined table olives.

Olio Intini – Monocultivar Olivastra Alberobello (BA) c.da Popoleto 0804325983 oliointini.it

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Best biologic

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, rocket, walnuts, pine nuts, radicchio, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic vinegar. Green, persistent. 

Best biologic

Price Range: 4 Fruity: 7 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: walnuts, nettles, rocket, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

Pietro Intini’s is one of the most interesting productions in the region. Quite particular is the project dedicated to the Cima di Mola cultivar. In 25 hectares of olive groves there are 5,600 plants. The company buys about 1,000 quintals of olives.

Best intense fruity

Price Range: 3 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, rocket, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

De Carlo – Tenuta Arcamone Dop Terra di Bari Monocultivar Coratina Bio Bitritto (BA) via XXIV Maggio, 54b 080630767 oliodecarlo.com

Price Range: 3 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: radicchio, nettles, rocket, apples, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic vinegar. Green, persistent. 

The Pompilj family, who owns the property, has lived here since the 16th century. Today, on 160 hectares of the estate, 10 are dedicated to more than 3,500 plants with both modern and traditional systems and several centuries-old olive trees that are the pride of the company.

Best intense fruity

Best monovarietal

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, nettles, rocket, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent.

TOP CHARTS

Oleificio Fam – Monocultivar Ravece Venticano (AV) c.da Ilici, 5 0825965829 oliofam.it

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Founded in 1998, Fam continues to be a reference point for olive oil in Campania. The Tranfaglia brothers manage the transformation of the olives from their own 2,500 plants on the 11 hectares of olive groves and from others selected in the area.

La Selvotta – Electum Vasto (CH) via Buonanotte, 10 0873801658 laselvotta.it

Emozioneolio – Opus Colli al Metauro (PU) via Tomba, 50a 0721371070 emozioneolio.com

It is always a pleasure to taste Massimo Mosconi’s olive oils. His extra virgin olive oil contains the meeting of two territories, the result is complex aromas, which clearly illustrate the vocation of central Italy for olive growing. There are 2,500 olive trees on about 7 hectares.

In the heart of the Chianti Classico area, the Grassi family has cultivated about 10 hectares since the early 1900s, 1.5 of which are olive groves. The most important olive oils are dedicated to the progenitor Olinto.

Titone – Dop Valli Trapanesi Bio Trapani via Piro, 68 3357629634 titone.it

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Best blend

Price Range:5 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 5 Spicy: 5 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, aromatic herbs, apples, pepper. Green, persistent. 

Best Pdo

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 7 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, rocket, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

Antonella Titone’s is a historic company founded in 1936 by her father Nicola. Today this reality is managed by Antonella and can count on 5,000 olive trees spread over 19 hectares. Changes to the mill have led to even higher quality.

Best blend

Price Range: 4 Fruity: 7 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, rocket, nettles, aromatic herbs, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

Podere Grassi – L’Olinto Dop Chianti Classico Monocultivar Frantoio Bio Greve in Chianti (FI) via Dudda, 33 3356892035 giacomograssi.it

Price Range: 4 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, rocket, aromatic herbs, grass, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

Brothers Giovanni and Elio Sputore represent one of the most significant olive oil producers in the region. The hectares dedicated to olive trees are 15 in the hills and with centenary plants. The company also grows fruit and wine grapes.

Best monovarietal

Best Pdo

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 7 Bitter: 5 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, rocket, aromatic herbs, apples, grass, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent.

EXTRAVIRGIN

Fattoria di Volmiano – Igp Toscano Colline di Firenze Bio Calenzano (FI) via di Volmiano, 28 0558827114 fattoriavolmiano.com

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The owner of this 15th-century estate, Lapo Gondi, is also an agronomist and personally manages his 540 hectares of which 78 are olive groves with 22,000 plants all organically grown. The company has both a modern Mori oil mill and an ancient stone mill.

Terenzi – Purosangue Igp Toscano Scansano (GR) loc. Montedonico 0564599601 terenzi.eu

San Bartolomeo – Olio Extravergine di Oliva Bio Viterbo s.da Teverina km 7,200 0761251782 pollosanbartolomeo.it

The company owned by the Marsan family and was founded in the 90s as an organic free-range poultry farm (meat and eggs). The property covers 570 hectares of which 200 are dedicated to the (splendid) olive grove and its 30,000 plants, more than half of which are already in production.

Albino Armani – Dop Garda Orientale Dolcè (VR) loc. Ceradello, 401 0457290023 albinoarmani.com

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Best quality/price

Price Range: 2 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, rocket, almonds, pine nuts, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

The history of the Armani family has been intertwined, for many centuries, with that of this part of the territory in the Adige River valley. The production was always dedicated to the production of wine up to the present day where production is now combined with sustainability projects. In this context are the 2.5 hectares of olive groves with 1,900 trees.

Best quality/price

Price Range: 2 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 5 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent 

This important producer was born at the end of the 1960s. Today the oil mill (thanks to its 40 hectares of olive groves) produces some of the best olive oil in the region. The company also produces and markets vinegar, pasta, legumes, grains and flavoured olive oils.

Best Pgi

Price Range: 3 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 5 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, grass, nettles, pine nuts, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

Trevi Il Frantoio – Olio Flaminio Fruity Trevi (PG) via Bastia, 1 0742391631 olioflaminio.it

Price Range: 4 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, garlic, nettles, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, balsamic. 

The Terenzi family has invested in Maremma where they benefit from the supervision of agronomist Eugenio Ranchino. There are 11 hectares of century-old olive trees (2,000 plants) and 60 hectares of vineyards. The company focuses on eco-sustainability and has achieved full energy autonomy.

Best Pgi

Best new entry 2021

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 5 Spicy: 5 Aromatic Profile: freshly mowed grass, almonds, artichokes, pine nuts, apples. Green, persistent.

TOP CHARTS

La Gramigna – Igp Toscano Colline di Firenze Monocultivar Frantoio Bio Pontassieve (FI) fraz. Sieci via di Gricigliano, 43 0558328167 gramignabio.com

Renata Conti’s family has been in this small hamlet of Pontassieve since the late 1980s. Of the farm’s 25 hectares, 15 are olive groves and host 4,000 plants. The farmhouse also produces wine, Vin Santo, legumes and eggs, all organic.

Podere Forte – Dop Terre di Siena Monocultivar Frantoio Bio Castiglione d’Orcia (SI) loc. Petrucci, 13 05778885100 podereforte.it

Splendid farm that’s totally managed in biodynamics and created by Pasquale Forte, an entrepreneur of southern Italian origins but in love with these lands. Wine production is important, but of the 500 total hectares, 30 are dedicated to the olive grove with 4,000 trees

Palazzo di Varignana – Claterna Monocultivar Ghiacciola Castel San Pietro Terme (BO) via Ca’ Masino, 611a 05119938300 palazzo divarignana.com

ColleMassari – Monocultivar Olivastra Seggianese Bio Cinigiano (GR) loc. Poggi del Sasso 0564990496 collemassari.it

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Evoo & tourism

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: tomatoes, rocket, apples, grass, pepper. Green, persistent. 

The silty marls and the temperature ranges that Monte Amiata offers are a terroir of note. Siblings Claudio and Maria Iris Tipa Bertarelli were among the first to understand its incredible potential. The company has 15,000 olive trees on 90 hectares of the farm’s 1,200 total.

Best olive oil & wine

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, grass, almonds, pepper, balsamic. Green, persistent. 

On an area of over 300 hectares, Carlo Gherardi – owner and protagonist of the rebirth of the exquisite Palazzo Bargellini -Bentivoglio – has chosen to plant 65,000 plants on 120 hectares. The estate also offers a splendid ecofriendly spa resort.

Best olive oil & wine

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 4 Bitter: 4 Spicy: 5 Aromatic Profile: artichokes, apples, almonds. Green, persistent. 

Owned by the Ferragamo family, this is a splendid reality: a good wine cellar, a renowned restaurant, villas and farmhouse rentals for hospitality, a beautiful wellness centre and, last but not least, a respectable olive oil production from 8,000 plants.

Best new entry 2021

Price Range: 2 Fruity: 8 Bitter: 7 Spicy: 7 Aromatic Profile: carciofo, rucola, noce, ortica, erba, mandorla, pepe, balsamico. Verde, persistente. 

Il Borro – Primo Raccolto Bio Loro Ciuffenna (AR) loc. Borro, 1 055977053 ilborrowines.it

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Evoo & tourism

Price Range: 5 Fruity: 6 Bitter: 6 Spicy: 6 Aromatic Profile: flowers, apples, almonds, pepper. Green, persistent.

Puglia, tuteliamo un’emozione.

VINI D’ITALIA GAMBERO ROSSO

TASTING NOTES Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi are the pride of Vini d’Italia. Small productions next to prestigious best sellers, in a review that involves the best labels tasted by our experts: we showcase them in this new tasting notes column

Barone Pizzini

Castellari Bergaglio GAVI DEL COMUNE DI GAVI ROLONA ‘19

via San Carlo, 14 Provaglio d’Iseo (BS) 0309848311 - baronepizzini.it Ebullient Silvano Brescianini is the architect of this beautiful company located at a stone’s throw from Lake Iseo, in western Franciacorta. The current President of the Franciacorta Consortium, supported not only by the economic commitment of the members, with years of work, has led Barone Pizzini to be a point of reference for environmental sustainability, organic and biodynamic agriculture. To verify this, in addition to tasting its excellent cuvées, wines of the highest profile, do visit the modern wine cellar, an example of sustainable architecture and respect for the territory.

fraz. Rovereto, 136r Gavi (AL) 0143644000 castellaribergaglio.it Castellari Bergaglio has written significant pages in the local winemaking tradition. The eleven hectares of vineyards are located between the municipalities of Gavi (in the Rovereto fraction), on calcareous white marl, and Tassarolo, on red and clayey soils; grown in respect of organic farming, thus giving life to a series of products that are a faithful expression of the territory. They are wines of great personality, firmly guided by the style of Marco Bergaglio, who never wanted to chase the markets or the trend of the moment, holding true to a classic and traditional concept of Gavi for an interesting proposal entirely focused on cortese grapes.

FRANCIACORTA DOSAGE ZÉRO NATURAE ‘16 The Dosaggio Zéro Naturae ‘16 owes yet another Tre Bicchieri recognition to the maison. The chardonnay (70%) and the pinot nero that contribute to the cuvée are grown partly on calcareous rocky soils and partly on morainic soils. You will be struck by its slender but authoritative profile, by the cleanliness and elegance of the fruity and citrus nuances, and by the subtle menthol vein that makes it irresistible.

GAVI PILIN ‘14 A masterpiece was born from a difficult year like 2014. Pilin, 100% cortese grape, is the result of a rigorous selection of the best company grapes, which are then left to dry for a period of about 30 days. It is an extremely elegant, complex, multifaceted and at the same time fine wine with aromas of dry herbs and grains, on notes of incense. On the palate it is amazing for the power it releases and the endless finish.

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Gavi Rolona has an intense bouquet of white fruits and mown grass, in which mineral sensations slowly emerge. In the mouth it is fresh, of great finesse, almost severe in its citrus acidity that drags the sip into a long and persistent finish.

Castello di Neive

c.so Romano Scagliola, 205 Neive (CN) 017367171 - castellodineive.it The acquisition of the 18th-century castle by the Stupino family dates back to 1964 and the oenological approach has always been faithful to tradition, following the oenological line desired by Italo, the very active owner of the winery. Since then, research has never stopped and has involved grape varieties, clones, types and methods of aging, ranging from arneis to Classic Method, between pinot nero and riesling. The main vineyards from which the Barbaresco selections are born are located in two crus of exceptional level, Santo Stefano and Gallina. Visitors can taste the different proposals in the cozy Casetta del Castello. BARBARESCO ALBESANI SANTO STEFANO RIS. ‘15 The olfactory proposal of Barbaresco Albes-

TASTING NOTES

ani Santo Stefano ‘15, a Riserva presented only in the best years, is refined and articulated, with raspberries and medicinal herbs in the forefront. The palate is powerful and long, fleshy and enveloping, still a little hard due to the important and welcome tannic presence. A champion to patiently await, giving it time to reveal itself at its best.

BARBARESCO GALLINA ‘17 Among the best of a vintage that is not easy to interpret, Barbaresco Gallina ‘17 is rich in notes of tobacco, sweet spices and red fruit. In the mouth it is harmonious thanks to elegant and ripe tannins, already well flowing on the very long palate.

Cantina Kaltern

via Cantine, 12 Caldaro/Kaltern (BZ) 0471963149 kellereikaltern.com/it The Kaltern winery, founded in the early 1900s, is the largest cooperative in the province of Bolzano, thanks to an agricultural fabric of almost 500 hectares managed by about 650 members, who with passion and competence explore above all the historic wine-growing areas surrounding Lake Caldaro. In the cellar the technical management is entrusted to Andrea Moser and his staff, who in recent years has been able to give a clearly legible style to the entire production. Structured on two different lines, it offers simple wines with a strong varietal profile together with selections that express the link with the territory with greater strength.

A. A. LAGO DI CALDARO CL. SUP. QUINTESSENZ ‘19 The old schiava vineyards of St. Josef provide the grapes that are transformed into Lago di Caldaro Quintessenz ‘19, a wine that never fails to show its class. A glass that invites you to drink from its luminous and brilliant appearance. On the nose there are notes of berries and flowers, while in the mouth it is striking for how it combines richness with levity.

Tenuta Monteti

s.da della Sgrilla, 6 Capalbio (GR) 0564896160 - tenutamonteti.it Tenuta Monteti is the winery of the Baratta family and is located near Capalbio, in the southernmost part of the Maremma wine land. A project that began in 1998, with the first bottles arriving on the market in 2004, a path that has met significant recognition. The cultivated varieties are exclusively international and range from petit verdot to cabernet franc, from cabernet sauvignon to merlot, up to the alicante bouschet. The choice of a modernist production approach is obvious, with the aging of the wines in small oak barrels of various ages, depending on the type of label. The style is rich, with Mediterranean nuances that amplify the wine’s personality.

mas on a base composed of a luxuriant fruitiness, well accentuated by a balsamic fragrance and intensity. In the mouth the gustatory development is solid, tight, enveloping and continuous.

Cantina Santadi

via Giacomo Tachis ‘14 Santadi (SU) 0781950127 cantinadisantadi.it The enhancement of the Sulcis area began many years ago, around 1960, thanks to the action of the Santadi winery. The cooperative, with its quality, obtained through an ideal relationship established with the winegrowers, currently about 200, has been an example for other wineries that are now the flagship of the island’s production. Here everything is centred on the Carignano grape, planted in an alberello training system on sand, and sometimes ungrafted. An almost exclusively red range, therefore, which sees the Sulcis variety declined in different types. CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS SUP. TERRE BRUNE ‘16 Terre Brune remains a true champion of its category, and therefore wins the Tre Bicchieri this year too. The 2016 vintage is also fortunate here in Sulcis and the wine can enjoy a great balance all played out between aromatic complexity - Mediterranean scrub, blackberry, black cherry, juniper berries, dark spices - and gustatory harmony. 

MONTETI ‘16 A blend of petit verdot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, aged in barrique for a period of 18 months, Monteti ‘16 offers smoky and spicy aro-

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FRANCIACORTA BRUT SATÈN

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Bersi Serlini

Maddalena and Chiara’s Satèn is one of the most intriguing wines tasted this year in Franciacorta. A pure, bright straw-coloured greenish Chardonnay, with a continuous perlage of minute bubbles. Intense white fruits, vanilla and acacia honey on the nose, while creamy, savoury, soft-textured and persistent on the palate.

Cascina Chicco via Cereto, 7 Provaglio d’Iseo (BS) 0309823338 - bersiserlini.it The origins of this great winery are lost in the mists of the Middle Ages, when the oldest building in the domaine was built by the Cluniac monks of the nearby abbey of San Pietro in Lamosa: a grange where the grapes were vinified and the abbey’s agricultural products were stored. Owned by the Bersi Serlini family since 1886, the estate has been constantly modernised, now producing a whole range of wines from grapes of its own vineyards. Bersi Serlini also represents an important location for conferences, events and wine tourism: Maddalena and Chiara Bersi Serlini eagerly keep alive the long family tradition. FRANCIACORTA BRUT ANNIVERSARIO The Blanc de Blancs Anniversario is an excellent Franciacorta. A pure Chardonnay, the result of a careful selection of the estate’s best grapes. The fine perlage in the glass amplifies its brightness. It opens with a bouquet of peach and ripe white fruits; creamy softness with a citrusy lingering finish on the palate

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REG. UE. N. 1308/2013. CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REG. N. 1308/2013.

via Valentino, 14 Canale (CN) 0173979411 cascinachicco.com Over the years, the Faccenda family’s winery has been able to find the right balance between its Roero roots and its new commitment in the Barolo land. Founded in Canale in 1950 with one hectare vineyard, in addition to the ones in the Roero, in the municipalities of Canale, Vezza d’Alba, Castellinaldo and Castagnito, the company can rely on eight hectares in Monforte d’Alba. The proposed labels are exclusively from native grape varieties and represent the right balance between technical precision and expression of territorial character. BAROLO ROCCHE DI CASTELLETTO ‘16 It is precisely the vineyards of Monforte that provide the raw material for this splendid

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Barolo Rocche di Castelletto ‘16. First scents of tobacco and liquorice, followed by notes of raspberry, anise and rose; strongly fruity with silky tannins, great balance and complexity on the palate.

Marisa Cuomo

via G. B. Lama, 16/18 Furore (SA) 089830348 - marisacuomo. com A small gem in the heart of the Amalfi Coast and one of the most inaccessible villages for winegrowing, Furore has a great oenological potential that few places can boast about. It was here that the Cantina Marisa Cuomo was founded in 1980, when Andrea Ferraioli gave his wife the vineyards inherited from his father as a wedding gift. From that moment on, the winery became one of the best on the Italian wine scene, gaining a solid reputation thanks to Fiorduva, Amalfi Coast’s iconic wine. Supported by dry stone walls, on the terraces Ripoli, Fenile and Ginestra are grown for the whites, while Piedirosso and Sciascinoso for the reds. COSTA D’AMALFI FURORE BIANCO FIORDUVA ‘19 Outstanding performance for Fiorduva, the iconic blend of Fenile and Ginestra in equal parts, 30%, with the addition of Ripoli for the remaining 40%. The 2019 vintage offers us a white wine with ample hints of Mediterranean scrub, sunny in its soft and clear scents, revealing a juicy fruit and a barely noticeable spicy undertone. Lingering finish, elegantly articulated.

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Maria Caterina Dei

via di Martiena, 35 Montepulciano (SI) 0578716878 - cantinedei. com Since 1991, Maria Caterina Dei has been managing firsthand the family business. It all began in 1964 with the acquisition of the Bossona vineyard, while the Martiena property, now winery’s headquarters, was purchased in 1973. The first bottled wine was produced in 1985, and, from then on, the Dei brand has progressively become a major actor in the scene of Nobile di Montepulciano. Its range is characterised by solid structures, yet always capable of relaxing with balance and elegance. NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO MADONNA DELLE QUERCE ‘17 The Nobile di Montepulciano Madonna delle Querce ‘17 is striking for its fruity and spicy intensity, with a mild smoky finish. A pure and mouth-filling Sangiovese with an ample development, tight and firm tannins that drag the sip into a solid and again ample finish.

Tenimenti Grieco

c.da Difensola Portocannone (CB) 0875590032 tenimentigrieco.it

Vintage after vintage, this company is becoming one of the leading regional wineries. Tenimenti Grieco is the upshot of a major renovation of the vineyards of the former Masseria Flocco, taken over in 2013 by Antonio Grieco. The vines grown range from the native Falanghina, Montepulciano and Tintilia to the international Sauvignon, Pinot bianco, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. Scattered on the slopes of Portocannone overlooking the Adriatic Sea, the 80 hectares and more of vineyards give life to a range of breezy and easy-drinking wines.

COLLI DI LUNI VERMENTINO NUMERO CHIUSO ‘16 Numero Chiuso is the flagship wine of Luna e Bosoni, a family specialised for many years now in the production of great Vermentino. The aging process takes place first in steel vats, then in large oak barrels. The result is a full-bodied, elegant wine, which harmonises yellow fruit tones with sweet spices and dry herbs. Great character, balance and intensity in the mouth.

MOLISE TINTILIA 200 METRI ‘19 Vinified and aged exclusively in steel, year after year the wine Tintilia 200 Metri is winning us over. The 2019 version opens with aromas of juniper berries, black pepper, Mediterranean scrub and black cherries, followed by a juicy, fragrant, smooth and graceful sip.

Lunae Bosoni

via Bozzi, 63 - Luni (SP) 0187669222 - cantinelunae.com Diego Bosoni is increasingly working alongside his father Paolo: he initiated the winery into the organic winegrowing of some vineyards, paving the way for a future conversion. At the same time, the research on local native grape varieties such as Vermentino nero, Pollera nera and Massaretta has been proceeding side by side. In the cellar, the reins have been handed over to the new generation too: Debora Bosoni welcomes wine tourists on a visit to the estate, embellished by the farming museum and the production of liqueurs and preserves.

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Merotto

fraz. Col San Martino via Scandolera, 21 Farra di Soligo (TV) 0438989000 - merotto.it Graziano Merotto has proved to be one of the most discerning winemakers of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, on the strength of a vineyard, that extends over some of the best denomination exposures, and a deep understanding of the potential of his grapes. Over the years, he has been able to expand the company in his own image, closely linked to the Prosecco of those hills. Produced exclusively from the Glera, grown on the gentle slopes that suddenly become steep, as fascinating to admire as tiring to walk along. The production dissects the full potential of the Treviso grape variety, enhancing its flavour and harmony. VALDOBBIADENE EXTRA DRY CASTÉ ‘19 CASTÈ VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE CONTROLLATA E GARANTITA MILLESIMATO 2019 EXTRA DRY

Named after the local name for Colle il Castello, a hill that rises behind Graziano Merotto’s winery, the Extra Dry Casté reveals scents of white fruit and flowers, which will win you over with a 

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rare precision and pleasantness on the palate, harmonious in its fusion of sugar, flavour and bubbles.

Santa Barbara PATHOS ‘18

F.lli Mossio

fraz. Cascina Caramelli via Montà, 12 Rodello (CN) 0173617149 - mossio.com Set up in 1967 with the purchase of the classic Cascina Langa, where the underground part lent itself well to ageing Dolcetto in steel tanks. Since then, the Mossio family has been confidently working, with excellent market outcomes, in order to promote its wines. Classic, pure wines with solid structures, yet never exaggerated, favoured by the altitudes of some vineyards that can exceed 400 metres. In addition, the far-sighted decision to postpone the release of the new vintages has further increased the already inviting drinkability of the entire selection.

b.go Mazzini, 35 Barbara (AN) 0719674249 santabarbara.it Over the years, Stefano Antonucci has been building up a vast range of wines, covering most of the regional denominations and all types in the oenological field. A modern style aimed at immediate pleasure for simpler wines, while the more ambitious versions add substance, complexity, as well as the excellent inclination to challenge time. Stefano knows how to convey his vision, thus entrusting a team of established experts, led by the Rotatori brothers and oenologist Pierluigi Lorenzetti, with the creation of remarkably successful wines

DOLCETTO D’ALBA SUP. GAMUS ‘17

CASTELLI DI JESI VERDICCHIO CL. TARDIVO MA NON TARDO ‘18

True “Dolcetto artists”, they managed to find the perfect balance point in their Gamus, resulting from the hot summer of 2017. Thanks to the vineyard’s high altitude, a rewarding freshness was preserved, while a delicate one-year ageing in used oak barrels ensured the expression of the vine’s captivating fruity complexity.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend together in Pathos ‘18, a wine that year after year has been refining its definition of taste and smell. The bouquet opens with ripe black fruit, giving way to spicy and balsamic hints, which create a complex but juicy mouthfeel, harmonised in its savoury and continuous tannic component.

Tardivo ma non Tardo Riserva ‘18 is a Verdicchio that blends freshness and fragrant aromas – herbs, gooseberries, white flowers - agreeable, with a savoury mouthfeel that drags the sip into a long and spherical finish.

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